Chrysler C-300, Windsor C-67 1955 Service Manual

Chrysler Windsor C-67 1955 is a reliable and comfortable car that offers a smooth and enjoyable driving experience. It is powered by a strong engine that provides ample power for both city and highway driving. The car's suspension system is well-tuned, providing a comfortable ride even on rough roads. The interior of the car is spacious and well-appointed, with plenty of room for passengers and their belongings. Overall, the Chrysler Windsor C-67 1955 is a great choice for anyone looking for a stylish, comfortable, and reliable car.

PDF Download

Document

2—INTRODUCTION CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

55x746 Fig. 1—Model C-67

Windsor

Fig. 2—Model C-68

New Yorker

55x748

Fig. 3—Model C-69, C-70

55x747

Jiu

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL INTRODUCTION—3

CREATING CUSTOMER CONFIDENCE

Customer confidence pays dividends over the years. Treating a customer's car as you would your own makes an owner feel that you are rendering a service, not simply selling a repair job.

Experience has shown that one of the best ways to create customer con-

fidence is to offer safety inspections and road tests as a part of your service to the motorists in your community. You, like many other service men, will find that motorists appreciate rather than resent having your recommendations about what should be done to maintain safe vehicle operation.

Every year as new vehicle are put into use, new inexperienced drivers take the wheel, increasing the problem of handling traffic on our streets and highways. There must be greater effort on the part of everyone concerned to help keep these cars in safe operating condition. Much of the responsibility falls on the shoulders of service men.

For instance, service men have the responsibility of keeping motorists informed about the overall condition of their vehicles—particularly those units upon which the driver depends for safe operation.

Service men have the responsibility of educating drivers about the hazards of driving an unsafe vehicle.

Service men have the responsibility of advising drivers about the need for periodical safety-inspections.

Service men have the responsibility of keeping drivers informed about the need for periodical safety maintenance.

There is no better way to build owner good-will and confidence for your service organization, than to offer your customers complete safety inspections at regular intervals.

CORRESPONDENCE

We appreciate correspondence from our dealers on all product information.

To assure prompt and accurate processing of correspondence, the factory must have detailed information to be routed to the proper authorities.

Therefore, to expedite the handling of correspondence at the factory, it is suggested that the following rules be observed:

• Begin all letters relative to service with the Car Owner's Full Name, the Vehicle Number, the Date of Delivery, the Speedometer Reading and the Body Number, if the finish of the car is involved. All this information is very important in identifying the particular car.

• Describe the problem briefly, and accurately, supplying all needed details.

• Do not include problems on more than one car in the same letter (unless they are identical).

4—INTRODUCTION CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SEASONAL PREPARATION

Seasonal preparation service should be performed in the spring and fall of each year to prepare the car for the approaching extreme temperature conditions, in order to avoid possible difficulties and to maintain maximum performance.

Complete procedure for engine tune-up will be found in Engine, Section VII, of this shop manual. An engine should be given a "Minor

Tune-Up" often enough so that it can maintain top performance. But it should not be necessary to give an engine a "Major Tune-Up" or "Performance Inspection" more than twice a year, in order to forestall an approaching decline of engine performance. The "Minor Tune-Up,"

"Performance Inspection" and "Major Tune-

Up" operations are recommended as good "Seasonal Preparation" (spring and fall).

MOPAR Anti-Freeze should be used in the cooling system at the approach of freezing weather. After the cold season is past, drain the cooling system and discard the old antifreeze. Add MOPAR Rust Resistor with a fresh filling of water to protect the cooling system during warm weather driving.

In the Lubrication Section of this shop manual, different viscosities of lubricants are indicated for different temperatures for the various major units of the car. While it is not imperative to make changes of lubricants at exact temperatures, it is good practice to make certain that lubricants are of low enough viscosity to permit proper lubrication and minimize cold lubricant resistance before the cold weather comes. This is especially true with engine oil. The lighter viscosity engine oil recommended for cold weather operation insures easier engine starting.

In addition to "Engine Tune-Up," inspection of other parts of the car at the time of "Seasonal

Preparation" is good practice from the customer's viewpoint as well as the dealer's. This practice may indicate necessity for correction of wheel alignment, brake adjustment, brake lining replacement, or lighting equipment replacement.

Also, parts of the steering mechanism may need adjustment or replacement. All such items have much to do with safe driving.

PROPER CARE OF NEW ENGINES

The Chrysler passenger car engine is designed and manufactured to high quality standards.

Consequently, like other fine mechanisms, this engine requires proper "break-in," servicing and maintenance in order to assure the owner longlasting, satisfactory operation.

period, SAE 10W Engine Oil should be used in the engine, except for anticipated temperatures of below —10° F. For temperatures below —10°

F., SAE 5W Engine Oil should be used. (It is important to keep the correct amount of lubricant in the engine.) See Lubrication Section.

In new cars, the oil should be drained after the first 500 miles, and refilled with the oil recommended in the Lubrication Section.

A new car should be driven at moderate speeds until the engine has become thoroughly warmed, to assure proper lubrication of the moving parts.

During the first few hundred miles, a new car should be driven at moderate speeds so that the driver may become "acquainted" with the controls and action of the car. The owner of each new car should be urged to avoid driving his vehicle at sustained high speeds during its early life.

During the first 500 miles of the break-in

STARTING COLD ENGINE

When starting a cold engine (whether new or not), care should be exercised during the warmup period not to accelerate the engine unnecessarily. The car should be driven slowly until the engine reaches normal operating temperatures.

This will assure proper lubrication of engine parts.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

INTRODUCTION—5

LICENSE DATA

The following revised method of numbering vehicles and their engines made in Detroit and

Los Angeles production Plants will be used on the 1955 Models.

VEHICLE NUMBER

For Detroit built cars the vehicle number will be revised as follows:

Windsor

New Yorker

Imperial and Crown Imperial

Chrysler-300

W551001

N551001

C551001

3N551001

Model

Year Built

Serial Number-

Fig. 4—Vehicle Number

The vehicle number is stamped on a metal plate attached to the left front door body hinge post, as shown in Figure 4.

ENGINE NUMBER

For L. A. built cars the vehicle number will be revised as follows

Windsor

New Yorker

L. A. Indentification

W55L1001

N55L1001

j

The Engine number will be revised as follows:

Windsor WE551001

New Yorker NE551001

Imperial and Crown Imperial CE551001

Chrysler-300 3NE551001

Model

Denotes Engine

Year Built

Serial Number

Fig. 5—Engine Number

The engine number is stamped on a boss on the top front side of the cylinder block just back of the water pump, as shown in Figure 5.

BODY NUMBER

The above revision will provide the Sales

Department with the information desired as to model, year built and the serial number.

54x35

Fig. 6—Body Number

The body number is stamped on a plate attached to the body in engine compartment, as shown in Figure 6.

6—INTRODUCTION CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

GENERAL DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

The Specifications for the 1955 Chrysler cars are the same as for the corresponding 1954 Models except for those covered in the following and other specifications of this manual.

Item Body Style

Four Door Sedan

Starting Vehicle Numbers

Detroit Los Angeles C-67

Windsor

Deluxe

C-68

1955 Models

C-69 C-70 C-300

W551001 W55L1001

New Yorker

Deluxe Four Door Sedan

Four Door Sedan

N551001

C551001

W55L1001

Imperials

Crown

Imperial 8 Passenger Sedan

Sport Coupe 3N551001

Wheelbase

Tread

(Front)

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

126

126 ' '

60.2

126

126 ' "

126

60.2

130

Tread

(Rear)

Length with

Bumper

Width with

Bumper

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

59.6

60.4

218.6

218.8

79.1

79.

59.6

60.4

218.8

'218.8

218.8

79.1

60.4

60.4'

224.1

79.1

' 79.1

Rear Axle with

3-Speed

Transmission

With

PowerFlite

Tire Size

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Sport Coupe

Nassau (hard top)

Newport (hard top)

St. Regis (hard top)

Town & Country Wagon

8 Passenger Sedan

Limousine

3.73

3.54

7.60x15

3.36

8.00x15

8.20x15

3.54

8.20x15

Shipping

Weight Four Door Sedan 3,925 4,160 4,565

*6-Ply Tubeless White Sidewall: 4-Ply Tubeless On All Other Models. **Special Blue Streak Tires

149.5

61.7

60.8

234.6

243.6

79. i

79.1

3.54

*8 QftriK

•8.90x15

5,180

Chrysler

126.0

60.2

59.6

2 1 8.6

' 1 9.1

3.54

**8.0

K)xl5

4,005

NUMBER

Section I

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION

DATE

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

SUBJECT CHANGES

8—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

C-67, C-68 C-69, C-70 C-300

7.24"

1.60"

3.12"

7.24"

1.60"

3.12"

7.24"

1.60"

3.12"

54x696

Fig. 1—Upper Control Arm Dimensions

E .

11.56"

1.68"

.90"

.94"

3.12"

*11.68"

1.74"

.90"

1.03"

3.32"

11.56"

1.68"

.90"

.94"

3.12"

54x697

Fig. 2—Lower Control Arm Dimensions

* Specifications for Town and Country Models same as for C-69 and C-70

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds

Threaded Bushing on Lower Control Arm 180

Threaded Bushings on Upper Control Arm 130

Upper and Lower Control Arm to Steering

Knuckle Support Pin Nut 100

Upper Shock Absorber Piston Rod Mounting Nut. 35

Foot-Pounds

Upper Control Arm Pivot Bars to Frame Crossmember Bolts C-67, C-68 (Except Town &

Country) 80

C-69, C-70 (Also C-67 and C-68 Town & Country). 110

Lower Control Arm Pivot Bars to Frame Crossmember Bolts 60

Threaded Bushing in Lower End of Steering

Knuckle Support 180

Steering Knuckle Support to Eccentric Bushing

Clamp Bolt 40

Lower Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket 60

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

C-328 Remover and Installer—King Pin

Bushings

C-369 Reamer—King Pin Bushing

C-630 Reamer—King Pin Bushing Line

C-695 Gauge—Toe-In

C-736 Tool—Upper Control Arm Seal and

Bushing Installing

C-829 Wrench—Camber Adjusting

C-830 Wrench—Camber Adjusting

C-3413 Remover and Installer—Shock

Absorber Lower Mounting

DD-428 or C-3409.. Gauge—Caster, Camber, and K.P.I.

DD-435 Turntable

MT-269 Wrench—Camber Adjusting

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—9

FRONT

Section I

SUSPENSION

REMOVAL DISASSEMBLY,

ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

1. DESCRIPTION

The front crossmember of the front suspension system on the 1955 cars has been redesigned and strengthened with heavier gauge steel, to increase frame rigidity and resistance to road shock, allowing for an increase in front wheel track, lower center of gravity and improving the front suspension system in general, as shown in Figure 5.

Also changed in the new front suspension system assembly is the manner in which the upper control arm pivot bar is attached to the front crossmember (Fig. 3). In the new design, the bar is attached to the crossmember with two bolts instead of four, as formerly. The upper and lower control arm dimensions and the front spring heights are also changed.

The front shock absorbers are mounted in rubber mountings within the coil spring on the new frame, as shown in Figure 4, permitting better shock absorber action and improved front end control.

2. LUBRICATING SUSPENSION PARTS

Lubrication should never be neglected when assembling suspension parts. Parts, such as rubber seals, seal plugs, bushings and bearings, should be properly located and installed to insure proper lubrication. When assembling coil springs to front crossmember and lower control arms, the coil spring should be centered and located in position before assembly. Pivot bars should also be centered in upper and lower control arms to facilitate adjustment and lubrication. Suitable provisions have been made in the design of suspension parts to allow for proper lubricating of moving parts. The Lubrication Section of this manual should be consulted for correct lubricating procedures.

Fig. 3—Upper Control Arm Pivot Bar Installed

SCREW

55P1014

Fig. 4—Front Shock Absorber Installation

10—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Jl

IX.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

•NUT

SCREW

BUSHING • O

WASHER

$*m FITTING

BUSHING

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—11

BEARING

LOCK PIN

LOCKWASHER

FITTING

BUSHING

SHOCK ABSORBER

MOUNTING

LOCKWASHER-

Fig. 6—Front Wheel Suspension (Exploded View)

PLUG

55x4

12—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE PROCEDURES

3. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY OF UPPER

CONTROL ARM (Refer to Fig. 6)

It is recommended in the event of damage to the upper or lower control arm, or pivot bars, that a complete upper or lower control arm assembly be installed. A new support arm pivot bar or bushing can be installed, however, if necessary.

Basically, the upper control arm remains the same as those used in previous models (Figs. 1,2); however, it is approximately *4 inch wider and is mounted to the frame with two bolts instead of four. Due to these changes, the method of centering the pivot bar is somewhat different in that we can no longer use Tool C-608 for locating the center. It can be used to maintain the set dimension of the upper control arm when new pivot bar bushings are installed.

5. ASSEMBLY OF UPPER CONTROL ARM

The upper control arm pivot bar bushings are of the self-threading type. When installing a new upper control arm, use new pivot bar bushings. To assemble the upper control arm, pivot and bushings properly, use special Tool C-608 to maintain the proper spread dimension of the control arm which will also assist in relieving thread tension after the bushings have been started.

(1) Center the pivot bar bushing with dust seals installed in the control arm and install Tool C-608 on the pivot bar.

(2) Expand the two jaws of the tool by tightening the expander wedge screw until the jaws of the tool are just snug against the inside of the control arm. Do not bring the screw down more than is necessary to place the jaws firmly against the control arm to maintain a fixed dimension of 714 inches at the outside of the "horns" of the control arm (see dimension "A", Fig. 1) when new pivot bar, bushings, etc. are installed.

4. REMOVAL OF UPPER CONTROL ARM

(See Fig. 7)

(1) Raise the hood and remove dirt or grease from around the shock absorber upper mounting area.

(2) Raise car by placing a jack or support under the lower control arm.

(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.

(4) Loosen locking screw and remove upper control arm to knuckle support pin.

(5) Remove pivot arm attaching bolts and remove upper control arm.

(6) Clean parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

(7) Pivot bar, bushings, pin, seal and threaded section of control arm must be thoroughly inspected for wear. Replace parts as necessary.

CAUTION

To avoid tool interference with bushings make sure jaivs of tool are seated against inside face of control arm and not against the arm flange.

(3) Clamp tool and control arm assembly in vise. Center pivot bar. Lubricate bushings with suitable lubricant.

(4) Start bushings on both ends of the pivot bar.

Thread the bushings into each side of the control arm until the shoulders of the bushings contact the surface of the control arm.

Tighten to 130 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Remove the tool and check the operation of the pivot bar for free movement (only a moderate grip should be required to turn the pivot bar).

NOTE

It is recommended in the event of damage to the upper or lower control arm or the replacement of a steering knuckle support arm, that the caster and camber be checked and brought up to specified limits listed in Data and Specifications.

CAUTION

The pivot bar may be rotated one turn in either direction to obtain correct centering position.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—13

NECESSARY

CLEARANCE

BUSHING

Fig. 7—Removing Upper Control Arm

55x75\

6. INSTALLING UPPER CONTROL ARM, PIN,

BUSHING, AND DUST SEAL (Refer to Fig. 8)

(1) Install a new eccentric bushing in the steering knuckle support and place one seal on the bushing at the hexagonal end of the bushing, and the other seal on round boss of the support arm bushing.

(2) With Tool C-736, depress the outer edge or lip of the seal, as shown in Figure 8. Slide the control arm and seal onto the steering knuckle support unit until the seal fits properly over the bushing and the pin hole is in proper alignment with bushing and control arm.

(3) Remove tool and install the control arm

SEAL AND BUSHING

INSTALLING TOOL

STEERING KNUCKLE

SUPPORT

Fig. 8—Installing Upper Control Arm Pin

Bushing Dust Seal

N O CLEARANCE ON WORKING SIDE OF PIN

IN BUSHING- "V" THREAD DESIGN PREVENTS END

PLAY OF PIN WHEN UNDER NORMAL LOAD

Fig. 9—Diagram of Threaded Bushing pin washer and nut. Position upper control arm pivot on frame.

(4) Use a drift to line up pivot bar holes with the frame crossmember holes. Install the attaching bolts and tighten securely to torque specifications.

(5) Install front wheels and tire assembly. Inspect or replace damaged greasing fittings.

(6) Lower car, remove jack, check front wheel caster and camber. Tighten control arm locking pin and support arm screw to torque specifications.

7. REMOVAL OF LOWER CONTROL ARM

AND FRONT SPRING

(1) To remove the lower control arm assembly and front spring, remove the front shock absorber.

(2) Place a jack or support under the lower control arm to be removed, raise car and remove wheel and tire assembly.

(3) Place a support under frame near the upsweep at the front of frame. Support the lower control arm and front spring and remove the control arm and knuckle support pin, lock nut and washer and remove pin.

(4) Raise front end of car slightly to relieve pressure on front spring.

(5) Remove front sway-bar from attaching bolts. When pressure is off front spring,

14—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION

BOLT

• CUSHION RETAINER

CUSHION

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

LOCKWASHER

NUT

SWAY ELIMINATOR

SHAFT ASSEMBLY CUSHION RETAINER '

""V

BOLT remove jack or support which was placed under control arm, swing arm down and remove front spring. The control arm can then be removed by removing frame to support bar attaching bolts.

8. SWAY ELIMINATOR

The sway eliminator, as shown in Figure 10, requires no adjusting other than periodical tightening of fastening bolts.

The rubber-cored bushings must not be lubricated or allowed to come in contact with grease or oil.

9. INSTALLATION OF LOWER CONTROL ARM

When replacing the lower control arm assembly, always use new pivot bar bushings and dust seals. The lower control arm pivot bar mounting bolt locations have been changed. For this reason the method of centering the lower pivot bar has been changed. Due to the location of these mounting holes, Tool C-594 cannot be used for centering the lower pivot bar, but can only be used to maintain the set dimension of the con-

Fig. 10—Sway Bar (Exploded View) trol arm. (See Fig. 2 for dimensions when installing a new pivot bar.) To replace pivot bar proceed as follows:

(1) Install dust seals on pivot bar and position pivot bar in the control arm. Assemble Tool

C-594 to the pivot bar.

(2) Install dust seals on pivot bar and clamp lower control arm in vise, with steering knuckle support down on bench. Center pivot bar in control arm, lubricate bushings with a suitable lubricant and start bushing evenly on both ends of pivot bar.

(3) Remove locating studs from Tool C-594 and place tool in position on pivot bar (open ends of tool down) on bench. Making sure tool remains in place, thread the bushing

(one to your right) into control arm until the shoulder of the bushing contacts machined surface of control arm. Tighten to

180 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Remove tool from assembly and reverse position of assembly in vise (top of spring seat up on bench). Re-position Tool C-594

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL on pivot bar and thread remaining bushing into control arm using same torque. Remove tool and assembly from vise and check pivot bar for free movement.

NOTE

Pivot bar may be rotated one turn in either direction to obtain correct centering position.

(5) Place the front spring on end in the lower control arm spring seat (flat end up). Lay the upper silencer on top of the spring, and install lower silencer (if so equipped). Install spring and upper silencer in the frame crossmember, turn the spring until it indexes with the lower spring seat and bring lower control arm up to hold it in position.

NOTE

Look up through the spring, using a bright light, to see if the upper end of the spring is positioned

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—15

correctly in front crossmember. Also determine

(by feel) if the lower end of the spring is in position.

(6) Install jack under the spring seat and jack up the lower control arm until the pivot bar attaching bolts can be installed, then tighten bolts securely.

(7) Install the front shock absorber, as described in Shock Absorber Section of this manual.

(8) Install sway-bar.

(9) Install wheel and tire assembly.

NOTE

10. FRONT END NOISY

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Causes: a. Improper lubrication b. Looseness in front suspension c. Front shock absorber noisy d. Sway eliminator noisy

Remedies: a. Lubricate car.

b. A certain amount of looseness is designed into the threaded bushings of the front suspension linkage to prevent binding of the joints under deflection. Unless they cause noise or unstable steering, these parts should not be replaced. Proper lubrication is essential, however.

It should be remembered that threaded bushings require more clearance than a smooth pin and bushing type joint; actually, only the "knifeedge" of the threaded pin operates in the "V" shaped thread cut in the bushing, as shown in

Figure 9. With the weight of the car on the bushings, the knife-edge bears against the "V" until there is sufficient wear to permit endwise movement of the threaded pin in the bushing.

This condition will cause no harmful effect except an increase in noise on rough roads. Always recheck front wheel alignment after repairs are made.

c. The rubber bushings on which the shock absorbers are mounted to the anchor studs may be worn and noisy, in which case, it is necessary to replace only the bushings.

Shock absorbers which have been found to be noisy should be replaced with new ones. The shock absorbers are of the "spun-over" type and are not serviceable.

d. The sway eliminator shaft requires no adjusting other than periodic tightening of the fastening bolts.

The rubber bushings on the springs, shock absorbers and sway eliminator shaft must not be lubricated or allowed to come in contact with any form of mineral oil. Mineral base oils will cause rapid deterioration of natural rubber.

16—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

REAR AXLE

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Rear Axle C-67 C-68 C-69 C-70 C-300

Type

Gear Type

•Ring Gear Diameter

Pinion Bearings

Type

Adjustment

Differential Bearings

Type

Adjustment

Semi-Floating

Hypoid

8.25"

Semi-Floating

Hypoid

8.75"

Semi-Floating

Hypoid

8.75"

Semi-Floating

Hypoid

9.62"

Semi-Floating

Hypoid

8.75"

Tapered Roller

Shim Pack

Tapered Roller

Solid Washer

Tapered Roller

Solid Washer

Tapered Roller

Solid Washer

Tapered Roller

Solid Washer

2 2

Tapered Roller Tapered Roller

Threaded Adjuster Threaded Adj uster

Tapered Roller

Threaded Adj uster Threaded Adj uster Threaded Adjuster

Drive Gear Pinion

Drive Gear Run-Out

Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash

Differential Side Gear Clearance

Matched Sets

.005" Maximum

.006" to .008"

.004" to .012"

Matched Sets

.005" Maximum

.006" to .008"

.004" to .012"

Matched Sets

.005" Maximum

.006" to .008"

.004" to .012"

Matched Sets

.005" Maximum

.006" to .008"

.004" to .012"

Matched Sets

.005" Maximum

.006" to .008"

.004" to .012"

Standard Standard Axle Ratio

With Standard 3-Speed Trans.

No. Drive Gear Teeth

No. Drive Pinion Teeth...

With PowerFlite

No. Drive Gear T e e t h . . . .

No. Drive Pinion Teeth...

Std. T&C

Wgn.

3.73 3.91

41 43

11 11

3.54 3.73

39 41

11 11

Type Recommended Ex. Press. Hypoid

Summer

C. g- Winter

? Extreme Cold ,

Capacity

3% Pints

(Including

T&C Wagon)

Wheel Bearings

Type

Adjustment

Axle End Play

Tapered Roller

Select Shims

.003" to .008"

Road Clearance (full load)

T&C Wagon

Sedan

8.4"

Std. T&C

Wgn.

Standard

3.36 3.54

37 39

11 11

3.54

Extreme Pressure Hypoid

8.4"

ZVi Pints

(T&C Wagon)

Tapered Roller

Select Shims

.003" to .008"

8.6"

Tread (Rear)

T&C Wagon

Sedan

59.62"

60.35"

3.54

Ex. Press. Hypoid

5 Pints

(Limousine)

Tapered Roller

Select Shims

.003" to .008"

9%"

60.75"

3.54

Ex. Press. Hypoid

ZVi Pints

Tapered Roller

Select Shims

.003" to .008"

•Windsor Town and Country Wagon Models use an 8.75 diameter ring gear.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE—17

ADDITIONAL SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED FOR

SERVICING THE REAR AXLE

Tool Number Tool Name

C-406A Wrench—Differential Bearing Adjusting

C-430 Dial Indicator Set

C-452 Puller—Companion Flange or Yoke

C-757 Sleeve—Axle Shaft Oil Seal Installing

C-758-D2 Pinion Bearing Pre-load and Cone Angle Setting Gauge

C-784 Companion Flange on Yoke Holding—Wrench

C-839 Driver—Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal

DD-807 Driver—Pinion Oil Seal Installing

DD-914-8 Ring—Medium Reducer (use with DD-914-89)

DD-914-89 Plate Set—Pinion Bearing Puller Adaptor

DD-921 Wrench—Differential Case Cap Remover and Installer

DD-993 Puller—Pinion Oil Seal

DD-999 Tool—Companion Flange or Yoke Installing

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds

AXLE SHAFT NUTS 145 (minimum)

BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE TO HOUSING MOUNTING BOLT NUTS . . 35

DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER TO AXLE HOUSING BOLT NUTS 45

REAR AXLE DRIVE GEAR BOLT NUTS 40

DIFFERENTIAL BEARING CAP BOLTS 90

PINION SHAFT COMPANION FLANGE NUT

C-67 240 (minimum)

C-68, C-69, C-70, C-300 250 (minimum)

18—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

ADJUSTER LOCK

CARRIER CAP

ADJUSTER

BEARING

BOLT AND

LOCKWASHER

BEARING CONE

NUT

NUT LOCK

PINION SHAFT

DIFFERENTIAL CASE

LOCKWASHER

FLANGE

OIL SEAL

GUARD

BEARING CONE - < 7 ^

PINS

PINION SHAFT

DRIVE GEAR

AND PINION

SPACER

BEARING CUP

\ NUT

OIL SLINGER

BEARING CUP

CARRIER

FILLER PLUG

BEARING ADJUSTING SHIMS

BEARING CONE

DRIVE PINION ADJUSTING WASHER

PINION THRUST WASHER

DIFFERENTIAL PINIONS

BOLT

SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER

SIDE GEAR

THRUST BLOCK

PINION THRUST WASHER

DIFFERENTIAL PINIONS

PINION THRUST WASHER

PINION SHAFT BLOCK

SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER

CASE CAP

PINION THRUST WASHER

SIDE GEAR

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

BEARING CONE

BEARING CUP

ADJUSTER

ADJUSTER LOCK

BOLT

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

CARRIER CAP

LOCKWASHER

52x614C

Fig. 2—Rear Axle (Exploded View) C-67 PowerFlite Equipped Cars (Except Town and Country Wagon)

BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER

ADJUSTER LOCK

CARRIER CAP

ADJUSTER

BEARING CUP

BEARING CONE WASHER

DRIVE GEAR A N D PINION

PINION SHAFT

DRIVE PINION

ADJUSTING

WASHER

I BEARING CONE

/ NUT LOCK

BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER

DIFFERENTIAL CASE

PINION SHAFT

LOCK WASHER.

FLANGE

OIL SLINGER

GUARD

OIL SEAL

BEARING CONE

NUT

SIDE GEAR

THRUST BLOCK

PINION THRUST WASHER

DIFFERENTIAL PINIONS

PINION THRUST WASHER

PINION SHAFT BLOCK

SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER

BEARING ADJUSTING SPACER

BEARING CONE

SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER

PINION THRUST WASHER

DIFFERENTIAL PINIONS

PINION THRUST WASHER

SIDE GEAR BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER

BEARING CONE

BEARING CUP

ADJUSTER

BOLT-

CARRIER CAP

ADJUSTER LOCK

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

52x600A

Fig. 3—Rear Axle (Exploded View) C-68, C-69 including C-67-C-68 Town and Country Wagon

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE—21

Section II

REAR AXLE

1. DESCRIPTION

A modification has been made on the differential carrier assembly on the New Yorker eliminating the axle drive gear thrust screw and thrust pad. This change has also been made on

Crown Imperial cars produced later in the model year. A Belleville lockwasher is now being used in conjunction with the drive pinion flange nut on all Chrysler axles replacing the slotted nut and cotter pin formerly used, permitting a more accurate torque setting of the drive pinion flange nut and allowing more accurate pre-loading of the drive pinion bearings.

These washers have a .024 to .031 inch "dish" and are marked with white paint on the "convex" side of the washer. When installing the

Belleville washer the "convex" or painted side of washer should face towards the nut.

A Belleville washer can also be used with a slotted type nut providing the tightening specification for the Belleville washer is used.

The tightening specifications for use with the

Belleville type washer are 240 minimum footpounds torque for the Windsor DeLuxe Models and 250 minimum foot-pounds torque for the

New Yorker and Imperial Models.

NOTE

The thread form on the differential bearing adjusters on the 1955 New Yorker and Custom

Imperial Models (except for the Croivn Imperials) are changed and are not interchangeable with the 195U adjusters.

The axles, as shown in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4, though different in design, are of the semifloating type with a hypoid ring gear and pinion.

The differential, drive pinion and axle shafts are carried on adjustable taper roller bearings. The rear cover is welded to the axle housing, necessitating the removal of the differential assembly in order to adjust the differential bearings. To insure quiet, smooth operation, the ring gear and pinion are serviced only in matched sets.

2. CLEANLINESS

Cleaning parts after disassembly is a very important procedure. Parts must be kept clean all through assembly. Tiny metal chips, bits of dirt, or foreign particles mixing with the lubricant are liable to cause excessive wear or axle failure if not cleaned from parts and housing.

Whenever the rear axle carrier assembly is removed from car for overhauling, the assembly and parts (except bearings) should be cleaned in a suitable cleaning solvent to remove dirt and hardened lubricant from the assembly before inspection. Bearings should be soaked in clean kerosene or any other good quality bearing cleaning fluid.

NOTE

Gasoline should never be used for cleaning parts since parts cleaned with gasoline have a tendency to rust.

The bearings should be immersed in clean solvent and rotated by hand until clean. After cleaning, blow dry with controlled compressed air.

3. INSPECTION

The inspection of rear axles consists of visual inspection for damaged or excessive parts wear.

Parts that are worn, pitted or scored must be replaced. Scratches or rough spots on mating surfaces should be stoned-out if possible. If spots or scratches cannot be stoned-out without damaging part, part should be replaced. Bearings and bearing cup should be examined for cracks, chips and discoloring due to overheating or excessive wear. Bearings should be lubricated and assembled in bearing cup, rotated by hand to check for roughness, and then wrapped in cloth and stored until ready for use.

Axle housing should be inspected for broken welds, missing or loose housing to carrier attaching bolts, damaged threads, bent or cracked housing. Inspect spring seat welds to make sure they are not broken or loose. Repair or replace as required.

Drive gear and pinion should be inspected

22—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 4 - Rear Axle (Exploded View) C-70

1—Differential bearing cup

2—Differential bearing cone

3—Differential pinion shaft lock pin

4—Differential pinion shaft—long

5—Differential case cap lock pin

6—Differential pinion shaft—short

7—Axle drive gear

8—Axle drive pinion

9—Axle drive pinion inner bearing washer

10—Axle drive pinion bearing cone—rear

11—Axle drive pinion bearing cup—rear

12—Axle drive pinion bearing spacer

13—Carrier caps

14—Differential bearing adjuster lock screw

15—Differential bearing adjuster lock

16—Differential bearing adjuster

17—Axle drive gear thrust screw pad

18—Axle drive gear thrust screw check-nut

19—Axle drive gear thrust screw

20—Axle drive pinion bearing cup—front

21—Axle drive pinion bearing cone—front

22—Axle drive pinion bearing oil slinger

23—Axle drive pinion bearing oil seal

24—Companion flange and oil seal guard

25—Companion flange nut washer

26—Companion flange nut

27—Carrier cap stud

28—Carrier

29—Filler plug

30—Differential bearing cap stud nut and lockwasher

31—Differential pinion thrust washer

32—Differential pinions

33—Differential pinion shaft block

34—Rear axle drive shaft thrust block

35—Differential side gear

36—Differential case cap

37—Differential gear thrust washer

38—Axle drive gear bolts

39—Differential case

40—Axle drive gear bolt nut lock

41—Axle drive gear bolt nuts

52x608A

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL for chipped, cracked or worn teeth. Thrust washers and mating surfaces should be inspected for excessive wear.

Inspect the axle shaft splines for evidence of twisting or cracking. Check axle shaft keyway and threaded section for wear. Replace any shaft showing signs of torsional or spline damage.

Inspect inner and outer axle shaft seals for

REAR AXLE—23 wear. Inspect seal surface of axle shaft for excessive wear, nicks, or scratches that may possibly cause seal leaks. Wheel hub boss and seal surface of axle shaft should be free of nicks and burrs. Replace all damaged or worn parts.

NOTE

Replacing seals regardless of their appearance is good insurance against leakage.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

4. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF AXLE

DRIVE SHAFT AND AXLE SHAFT OIL SEAL

Should it become necessary to overhaul the rear axle, drain the housing and proceed as follows:

OIL SEAL STAKED

IN THREE PLACES

PULLER

TOOL!

REAR WHEEL

BRAKE AXLE

SHAFT OIL

SEAL

PROTECTING

SLEEVE

54x660

Fig. 5—Removing Rear Hub a. Removal

(1) Jack up car and remove wheel, hub and drum assembly, using wheel puller set

Tool C-675, as shown in Figure 5.

CAUTION

Do not strike end of axle shaft to loosen hub because of possible damage to axle shaft and roller bearings.

46x105 A

Fig. 6—Removing or Installing Brake Support,

Using Tool C-757

24—REAR AXLE

REAR AXLE SHAFT

46x140

Fig. 7—Removing Axle Drive Shaft and Bearing,

Using Tool C-499

(2) Block brake pedal so it cannot be depressed.

(3) Disconnect brake line at wheel cylinder.

(4) Remove the rear axle drive shaft key and install the special sleeve Tool (C-757) in the axle bearing outer oil seal before removing the brake support from the axle housing, as shown in Figure 6,

(5.) Remove the shims from each end of the axle housing. Shims should be kept separate so that they can be reinstalled in the same position as they came off the axle housing, so as to keep the axle shaft thrust block centralized in the differential assembly.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(6) Remove the axle shafts and bearings from the housing, using Tool C-499, as shown in

Figure 7.

CAUTION

Do not allow the axle shaft to drag on the inner oil seal when removing axle from housing. The inner diameter of the oil seal is designed with a feather edge to hug the shaft snugly to prevent oil leak. If this edge is enlarged or damaged in any way, the efficiency of the seal will be impaired.

If axle shaft bearings are to be replaced, perform operation in Step (7).

(7) Remove bearings from the axle shafts, using bearing puller Tool C-293-C, as shown in Figure 8.

6X57

Fig. 8—Removing Bearing from Axie Drive Shaft

1-Axl« drive shaft 2-Jool C-293-C 3-Bearing

REAR AXLE SHAFT

INNER OIL SEAL

TOOL'

49x713

Fig. 9—Removing Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal

(Tool C-637)

(8) Remove the axle shaft inner oil seal from housing, using Tool C-637, as shown in

Figure 9.

(9) Remove outer oil seal from support plate by driving the seal out of plate with driver,

Tool 0-839.

Cleanliness and inspection are vital factors to be remembered when overhauling or repairing a rear axle assembly.

Clean aU parts after disassembly and keep them clean throughout assembly*. Metal chips, or particles of grit or dirt that may drop into the lubricant, will cause excessive wear and eventually cause failure of the axle.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

New oil seals should be installed whenever seals are removed from axle housing and brake support plate.

b. Installation

Always inspect all parts before assembly and replace those that are worn or scored. Check for and remove any burrs, nicks, scratches, or rough spots on mating surfaces of replacement parts that may have been caused by rough handling.

(1) Install the rear axle drive shaft inner oil seal in housing, using special drift Tool

C-241 for Model C-70.

Fig. 10—Installing Axle Shaft Oil Seal (Tool C-241)

(2) Install outer oil seal in brake support plate.

Secure seal in place by staking in three places, as shown in Figure 6.

(3) Leather seals should be prepared for installation by soaking them in light engine oil for 30 minutes.

Before installing the axle shaft in housing, examine the bearing surface of the bearing cups for wear and pits, also the surface of the axle shaft on which the oil seal wipes to make sure that it is smooth and free from tool marks and burrs. If necessary, dress down the surface of the shaft with a stone or fine emery cloth to make a smooth bearing surface for the oil seal.

NOTE

Stone or emery polish lines should run around and not along shaft.

TOOL

REAR AXLE—25

REAR AXLE SHAFT

BEARING CONE A N D ROLLERS

49x714

Fig. 11—Installing Axle Shaft Bearing (Tool C-158)

(4) To install the axle shaft, first replace the bearing on axle shaft with special Tool

C-158 (Fig. 11) and moderately lubricate axle bearings with hypoid lubricant. Carefully insert the axle shaft in the housing, making sure the shaft and differential side gear splines align.

(5) Install the axle drive shaft outer bearing cup with special driver Tool C-413 (Fig.

12).

(6) Install shims in same manner as removed to maintain the central position of axle shaft thrust block.

(7) Install special sleeve Tool C-757 in the axle bearing outer oil seal, before mounting brake support to the axle housing (Fig. 6), to protect seal from being damaged by axle shaft keyway during installation.

(8) Clean mating surfaces of axle housing flange and brake support.

Fig. 12—Installing Axle Drive Shaft Bearing Cup

(Tool C-413)

26—REAR AXLE

(9) Install new gaskets.

(10) Install brake support plates and tighten attaching nuts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(11) Install axle shaft keys.

(12) Connect brake lines to brake cylinder, unblock brake pedal and bleed brake lines.

(13) Check the axle shaft end play with dial indicator to make sure it comes within

.003 to .008 inch limits, as outlined in Paragraph 6.

(14) Install wheel hub and drum assembly.

Tighten axle shaft nuts to a minimum of 145 foot-pounds torque. Install new cotter keys and hub caps.

51x866

Fig. 13—Axle Shaft Bearing Adjusting Shims

Checking Axle Shaft End Play

(15) Refill the axle housing and carrier assembly with Extreme Pressure Hypoid Lubricant, as outlined in Lubrication Section.

(16) Check and refill master cylinder.

(17) Check and adjust brake shoes.

(18) Remove jack from car.

5. REMOVING BROKEN END OF AXLE

DRIVE SHAFT

Remove wheel, drum and axle drive shaft, as outlined in Paragraph 4. If break is less than about 8 inches from splined end of shaft, it will be necessary to remove differential and carrier

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL assembly. If break is more than 8 inches from splined end of shaft, it will be necessary to remove inner oil seal and snare inner end of axle drive shaft out through housing with a loop.

CAUTION

To avoid damage to rear axle carrier assembly, the oil must be drained from the differential housing and the housing cleaned to remove chips and grit before installing the new axle shaft.

(1) Replace axle shaft and check rear axle end play, as outlined in Paragraph 6.

(2) Replace wheel hub and drum assembly and tighten axle shaft nuts to a minimum of

145 foot-pounds torque.

6. SETTING AXLE SHAFT END PLAY

Rear axle shaft end play is adjusted by the use of adjusting shims (Fig. 13) that are bolted between the axle housing ends and the brake support plates. The shims are available in thicknesses of .005, .010, .0125, .015 and .030 inch.

The correct axle end play is .003 to .008 inch.

One or more shims may be required to obtain correct end play.

(1) Preparation for setting axle shaft end play consists of removal of axle drive shafts. It is not necessary to remove the bearing cones from the axle drive shafts unless they are to be replaced. Clean parts after disassembly, and inspect bearing cups, cones, and rollers for signs of surface failure.

(2) The axle drive shaft thrust block has an elongated hole to allow the block approximately y± inch total lateral motion in the assembly. The thrust block must be located so that the elongated hole is approximately centered on the long differential pinion shaft.

To adjust the axle end play, the operation can be started from either side of the axle housing.

These instructions will be confined to the case of starting at the left side.

Install the left axle drive shaft and bearing cone assembly (without lubricant). Drive in the bearing cup as far as it will go, using Tool

C-413, in order to prevent damage to the axle housing. This will thrust the block as far to the right as it can go, as shown in "A," Figure 14.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(3) If the left bearing cup is now withdrawn about MJ inch, the thrust block will be approximately centered on the differential pinion shaft. Axle operation is not affected by mislocation of the thrust block unless the block bears against the differential pinion shaft, in which case the end play of the left and right axle shafts may be different, and wheel thrust will be imposed upon the differential bearings, a condition that should be avoided.

With the left bearing cup remaining at its innermost position, as shown in Figure 14, lay a straightedge across the end of the axle housing. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the bearing cup face, to the nearest %

inch.

The example shown in "B," Figure 14, shows a measurement of %<> inch.

REAR AXLE—27

One eighth inch minus the above measurement gives the thickness of shims required at the left end of the housing to center the thrust block. For the above example, a shim y

inch thick would center the thrust block. A .030 inch shim is close to this thickness, but a good practice is to use about a .020 inch shim which is less shim than the thickness required for centering the thrust block.

(4) Remove the left axle shaft, grease the bearing, reinstall the shaft and bearing. Using the correct thickness of shims or shim as determined in Step (3), install the left brake support plate. The bearing cup should not be driven all the way in during this operation. As the brake support plate is drawn up tight, it will push the bearing cup in to the correct position. This completes the work on the left axle.

DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT

Fig. 14—Adjusting Axle Shaft End Play

5 1 x 1 8 7

28—REAR AXLE

CAUTION

Use clean shims. Clean mating surfaces. Presence of rust or grit will result in incorrect measurement.

(5) Install the right axle drive shaft and bearing without lubricant. Bearing should be clean and dry. Using Tool C-413, drive the bearing cup in as far as it will go, while rotating the axle shafts to seat both bearings properly. If the proper procedure has been followed, as outlined in Step (4), the left bearing cup will be up firmly against the left brake support plate, and the right bearing cup, bearing cone, right axle shaft, thrust block, left axle shaft and left bearing cone, will move as a unit, until the left bearing is seated. It is important that the axle shafts be rotated during this operation. Now the end play in the bearings will be zero, and the rotation of the axle shafts will require more effort. The right bearing cup should then protrude beyond the housing end.

Leaving .010 inch out of the left shim, as described in Step (3), will help to assure that the right bearing cup will protrude beyond the housing end face.

(6) Hold a straightedge firmly against the outer face of the right bearing cup. Using a set of feeler gauges, measure accurately the distance between the housing face and the straightedge. This measurement gives the thickness of the shim that would give zero end play if it were used in the assembly. The shim thickness to be used is obtained by adding .003 inch to the above measurement. If this gives a thickness that cannot be built up from existing shims, use the next larger shim combination. This insures that the end play will be greater than .003 inch.

For an example of end play setting, assume the right bearing cup face protrudes .038 inch beyond the end face of the housing. Shim thickness required for .003 inch end play is .038 inch

+ .003 inch = .041 inch. This cannot be obtained with existing shims, so .0425 inch is used, which is obtained with one .030 inch and one .0125 inch shim. The end play is then .0425

inch minus .038 inch, equals .0045 inch.

(7) Remove the right axle shaft and lubricate

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the bearing. Install axle shaft, bearing and shim pack as determined in Step (6), and complete the assembly.

(8) If the dial indicator shows less than .003

inch, or more than .008 inch end play, remove the brake support plate and oil seal, and add or remove shims, as required, to obtain the desired axle shaft end play.

CAUTION

When adjusting axle shaft end play, equal thicknesses of shims should be removed or installed on both sides of the axle housing to maintain the centralized position of the axle shaft thrust block.

After the axle shaft end play has been checked or corrected, install the brake drum and wheel assembly. Tighten axle shaft nuts to a minimum of 145 foot-pounds torque. Install cotter keys and remove jack from car.

7. REMOVAL AND INSPECTION OF

DIFFERENTIAL AND CARRIER ASSEMBLY a. Removal

(1) Remove wheel hub and drum assembly and rear axle shafts, as outlined in Paragraph

4, and proceed as follows:

(2) Disconnect rear universal joint and drop propeller shaft.

NOTE

All accumulation of grit, dirt and other foreign matter, deposited on the differential and carrier assembly around the attaching bolt nuts, should be cleaned off before the assembly is removed from the housing to prevent them falling into the housing, gears, or bearings, when the assembly is removed.

b. Inspection

(1) Make sure the companion flange or yoke nut is tight and has not moved from its original position.

(2) Check the backlash between the drive gear and pinion gear. See Figure 15. (Backlash should not be less than .006 inch or more than .008 inch.)

(3) Inspect the surfaces of the drive gear and

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SCRIBE MARKS

REAR AXLE—29

PUNCH

MARKS

Fig. 15—Checking Backlash Between Drive Gear and Pinion (Tool C-430) pinion teeth for nicks, burrs, scoring or other damage (Drive gear and pinion are replaceable in sets only.)

(4) Check tightness of drive gear to differential case bolts. Tighten if necessary.

(5) Check drive gear runout with gauge C-430.

Runout should not be more than .005 inch.

(6) Check differential bearing pre-load and backlash, as outlined in Paragraph 22.

52x371

Fig. 16—Marking Bearing Caps and Adjusting Nuts

NOTE

Bearing caps must NOT be interchanged. They are lined-bored with the carrier housing when manufactured.

(2) Remove the bearing cap bolts, caps, adjusting nuts and bearing cups and lift the differential case and drive gear assembly out of carrier.

NOTE

Clean drive gear, bearings, bearing cap, drive pinion and inside of carrier assembly, as outlined in "Cleanliness," Paragraph 2.

NOTE

Careful inspection of pinion bearing pre-load will assist in determining cause of noisy axle.

Improper drive pinion position ivill cause a noisy axle.

8. REMOVING DIFFERENTIAL CASE AND

DRIVE GEAR ASSEMBLY FROM CARRIER

(All Models)

Refer to Figures 2, 3 and 4. Disassemble the differential case assembly as follows:

(1) Mount the carrier assembly in stand. Mark both differential bearing adjusters and caps, so they may be reinstalled in approximately the same position at assembly (Fig.

16).

9. DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION OF

CAGE-TYPE DIFFERENTIAL a. Removal

(1) Place differential case and drive gear assembly on bench, bend down locking tabs and remove drive gear to case attaching nuts and bolts.

(2) Using a fiber hammer, tap drive gear off differential case.

(3) To check differential case for runout, mount the differential case, bearings and cup assembly in carrier. Install bearing caps and adjusters and adjust excessive

30—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

51x199

Fig. 17—Removing Differential Side Carrier Bearings

(Tool C-293-C) play from bearings with adjusters. Mount dial indicator on carrier mounting surface and check drive gear mounting flange runout. Runout should not exceed .005 inch. If there is more than .005 inch runout the differential case should be replaced.

(4) Inspect bolt holes for wear or out-ofround; if worn or out-of-round, replace case.

(5) Mount differential case assembly in a heavy vise, using copper jaws.

(6) Install Tool C-293-C on bearings, as shown in Figure 17, and remove bearings from differential case.

b. Inspection

(1) Check the clearances between the side gears and thrust washers. Clearance should be .004 to .012 inch. To do this, use two feeler gauge blades. Slide the blades between side gear and thrust washer—one blade on each side of gear hub, as shown in

Figure 18. Try two .004 inch blades—they should go in. Then, try two .013 inch blades

—these should not go in. Now, check the opposite side gear the same way.

(2) Remove differential pinion shaft lock pin from differential case, push out pinion shaft and remove differential side gears.

When reassembling the ground surfaces

49x722

Fig. 18—Checking Differential Side Gear Clearance of the thrust block should be turned toward the axle shaft. Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. The bearings should also be immersed in clean solvent and rotated until clean.

(3) Check differential side gear and pinion teeth, bores and spherical back of pinions, pinion (cross) shaft, thrust washers and thrust surfaces inside the differential case for wear or damage. If any of the above mentioned parts are worn so that they will affect the operation of the differential, they should be replaced.

(4) Inspect the fit of the differential side gears in the hub of the differential case. If they are excessively loose, the gears or case should be replaced.

(5) Examine the surfaces of differential case cone and roller bearings, and the bearing cups, for pitting and wear. Assemble cups in bearings and rotate. If the bearings are rough or drag on rotation, the bearing rollers may have a flat spot. If so, the bearing should be replaced.

(6) Make sure the oil passages in the differential carrier are clear, clean and unobstructed.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

LOCK PIN

DRIVE OUT

HOLES

REAR AXLE—31

LOCK PIN

5 2 x 3 7 5

Fig. 19—Checking Ring Gear Mounting Flange Runout

NOTE

Whenever a differential carrier assembly is removed for rebuilding, due to bearing or other failure, care must be taken to see that all foreign mutter, such as grit, dirt, metal particles, etc., are removed from the carrier.

10. DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION OF

BARREL-TYPE DIFFERENTIAL WITH

BOLTED-ON CASE CAP a. Disassembly

(1) Place differential case and drive gear assembly on bench, bend down locking tabs and remove drive gear to case attaching nuts and bolts.

(2) Use a fiber hammer to tap drive gear off differential case.

(3) Clean around differential case flange to allow for checking face runout.

(4) Mount the differential case in the carrier.

Assemble bearings, the adjusting nuts and bearing caps on carrier. Adjust and remove excessive play from the bearings.

Mount a dial indicator on the carrier mounting face and check the ring gear mounting flange for runout, as shown in

Figure 19.

NOTE

If there is more than .005 inch runout during the above check, the differential case must be replaced.

Inspect the bolt holes in the ring gear mounting flange for wear or out-of-round. If the bolt

5 2 x 3 7 7

Fig. 20—Removing the Differential Pinion Shaft

Lock Pins holes are out-of-round, the ring gear will creep on the case.

(5) Remove the differential case from the carrier.

(6) Fit Number 18 plates behind bearings and pull off the differential bearings, using

Tool C-293, as shown in Figure 17. Remove the differential bearing spacers.

(7) Remove the differential cap to case bolts, and tap the cap lightly with a soft hammer to remove.

(8) Remove the three differential pinion shaft lock pins by driving them out of the case with a hammer and punch, as shown in

Figure 20.

(9) Drive the long pinion shaft out of the differential case, using a brass drift and hammer. NOTE: This shaft can be identified as having only 1 retaining pin.

(10) Lift out the rear axle drive shaft thrust block.

(11) Drive the short pinion shafts out of the case, and lift out the pinion shaft block.

NOTE: The short pinion shaft sides of the block are punch marked for identification.

(12) Lift put the differential pinion gears, slide gears and thrust washers.

b. Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Remove any chips or foreign material from

32—REAR AXLE the carrier housing. Inspect all machined surfaces for nicks, burrs or scratches. Inspect the thrust shoulders in the carrier housing (bearing cups) to make sure there are no burrs on them. The thrust shoulder must be flat so that the bearing cups will seat properly. Check the differential case for cracks, fractures, distortion or damage.

Install a new case if necessary.

(2) The bearings should be immersed in clean solvent and rotated by hand until clean.

After cleaning, blow dry with compressed air.

CAUTION

Do not spin the bearings with air pressure when blowing them dry, as damage to the bearings may result from this practice.

(3) Check the bearings for roughness, or brinelling. The bearings must run free and show no indication of roughness or wear.

(4) Examine the bearing cups for pitting, scoring or wear. Inspect all gears for chipped or worn gear teeth. Check the fit of the differential side gears on the axle shaft splines and the differential gears on the pinion shafts. Check the thrust washers for wear and replace if necessary.

Figr21—Removing Differential Case Cap Lock Pin

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

46X200

Pig. 22—Removing Differential Case Cap,

Using Tool DD-921

NOTE

Whenever a differential carrier assembly is removed for rebuilding due to bearing or other failure, care must be taken to see that all foreign matter, such as grit, dirt, metal particles, etc., are removed from the carrier.

11. DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION OF

BARREL-TYPE DIFFERENTIAL WITH

SCREWED-ON CASE CAP

Remove drive gear from differential case as outlined in Paragraph 10 and proceed as follows:

(1) Mount the flange of the differential case in a vise equipped with copper jaws.

(2) Remove differential bearings with puller.

On Model C-70 use Number 83 adapter and

Number 41 plug, puller set Tool DD-914.

(3) Remove the differential case cap locking pins by center punching and drilling, as shown in Figure 21. Remove shell of pin left in hole with a punch. The differential case cap is .001 to .002 inch larger than the differential case body in which it fits. The case must be expanded by heating for easy removal of case cap. The case will be damaged, if any attempt is made to remove cap without heating.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Heat the outside of the case (not cap) with a torch. Keep the flame moving around the case to assure even heating. Try a piece of ordinary soft solder on the case, from time to time. When the solder starts to melt at approximately 360 to 400 degrees F., the case will be as hot as it can get without damaging the thrust washers.

When the case is just hot enough to melt soft solder loosen cap with a blunt drift and a heavy hammer and quickly unscrew the cap from the case, with Tool DD-921, as shown in Figure 22.

The parts can now be immersed in oil to cool for subsequent handling.

(4) Remove the three different pinion shaft lock pins by driving them out of the case with a hammer and punch, as shown in

Figure 23.

(5) With a drift and hammer, drive the long pinion shaft out of the case. Then, remove the thrust block. Now, drive the short pinion shafts out of the case and lift out the pinion shaft block.

(6) Remove the differential pinions, side gears and thrust washers from the case.

12. ASSEMBLY OF CAGE TYPE DIFFERENTIAL

When installing drive gear to differential case, be sure the holes in drive gear are properly lined up with the holes in the differential case before pressing the gear on the case.

Fig. 23—Removing Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Pins

REAR AXLE—33

(1) Press gear on case. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 40 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Install the differential side gears with their thrust washers, the differential pinions and their thrust washers, and the differential pinion shaft. Check the differential side gear clearance (Fig. 18).

If clearance cannot be obtained with the old thrust washers and gears, install necessary new parts to obtain the correct clearance.

(3) After clearance has been obtained, remove pinion shaft gears and thrust washers.

Coat the shaft and other parts moderately with Extreme Pressure Hypoid oil and reassemble parts in differential case.

(4) Line up the locking pin hole in the pinion shaft. Enter the shaft in pinion shaft hole in case. Assemble side gears and thrust washers in hub of case and pinion gears, thrust block spacers and thrust block on shaft. Press shaft into case.

(5) Install pinion shaft locking pin in case and press pin in place, peening the metal of the case over the ends of pin to retain pin in place.

(6) Install differential bearings on differential case, using Tool DD-1004.

(7) Install bearing cups on bearings and mount the differential gear assembly in carrier.

(8) Assemble bearing caps and bearing adjusting nuts in carrier and check the differential case runout. After bearing caps have been brought up against bearing cups, mount a dial indicator, with the pointer resting against the back face of the ring gear. As the drive gear and case is rotated, the runout should not exceed .003 inch. If runout exceeds .005 inch, the differential case should be replaced.

13. ASSEMBLY OF BARREL TYPE DIFFERENTIAL

WITH BOLTED-ON CASE CAP

(1) If new differential side gears are to be installed, place a new thrust washer over hub of differential side gear and lay in position in the differential case.

34—REAR AXLE

LOCK PIN HOLES

SHOULD BE

ALIGNED

DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT—LONG

1/16 INCH APPROXIMATE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

52x623

Fig. 25—Tightening Differential Case Cap Screws HOLES FOR

DIFFERENTIAL

PINION SHAFTS

—SHORT

52x384

Fig. 24—Positioning the Long Pinion Shaft in Case

(2) Line up the locking pin hole in the long pinion shaft with the hole in the differential case pinion boss (opposite boss has no pin hole). Drive the pinion shaft in case until it protrudes about

/i6 inch on the inside of case, as shown in Figure 24.

(3) Place a pinion thrust washer on the pinion so that the concave side faces the pinion.

Install the pinion and thrust washer on the end of the shaft that protrudes through case. Tap shaft in case, while holding pinion up against case, until end of shaft is even with edge of pinion.

(4) Insert the pinion shaft block with punch marked sides facing the short shaft holes.

Install the axle drive shaft thrust block and continue to drive the shaft through the pinion shaft block and rear axle drive shaft thrust block.

(5) Install the opposite pinion and thrust washer. Drive the shaft into final position in case, making sure locking pin holes are lined up.

(6) Drive one of the short pinion shafts into either of the remaining holes until the shaft protrudes about %«

m c n o n

the inside of case. (Be sure the lock pin holes line up.) Install pinion and thrust washer and continue to drive shaft until shaft enters hole in the pinion shaft block. Install the other short shaft, washer and gear in the same manner.

(7) Lock the three pinion shafts into the case by installing three new locking pins in the holes, driving the pin ends approximately

Ym inch below machined surface of case.

(8) Assemble the thrust washer and differential side gear in the cap. Using the attaching cap screws as guides, position cap on differential case, and tap into position with fiber hammer.

(9) Tighten cap screws to 35 foot-pounds torque as shown in Figure 25.

(10) Install ring gear and tighten mounting bolt nuts to 40 foot-pounds torque. Lock the nuts by bending locking tabs.

(11) Slide the differential bearing spacers over the hubs (if so equipped). Install the bearings on the case, using Tool DD-1005, as shown in Figure 26.

(12) Place the differential bearing cups over the bearings. Install complete assembly in the carrier housing.

(13) Seat the adjusting nuts in the pedestals of the carrier housing and install the caps and bolts. NOTE: Be sure the caps are on the same side from which they were removed.

(14) Mount a dial indicator, with the pointer resting against the back face of the ring gear and check the runout. Runout should be true within .005 inch, as shown in Figure 19.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE—35

USE BALL END PUNCH

TO PEEN METAL OVER

TOP OF PINS—PEEN

METAL O N DRIVE GEAR

SIDE OF PIN HOLE

51x164

Fig. 27 — Staking Differential Case Cap Lock Pins

52x385

Fig. 26 — Installing Differential Bearings

14. ASSEMBLY OF BARREL TYPE DIFFERENTIAL

WITH SCREWED-ON CASE CAP

(1) If new differential side gears are to be installed, place a new thrust washer over hub of gear and lay in position in the differential case.

(2) Line up the locking pin hole in the long pinion shaft with the hole in the differential case pinion boss (opposite boss has no locking pin hole). Drive the pinion shaft in until it protrudes about Vi

inch on the inside of case.

(3) Place a pinion gear thrust washer on pinion so that the concave side faces the pinion. Install the pinion gear and washer on the end of shaft that protrudes. Tap shaft and hold pinion, until end of shaft is even with edge of pinion.

(4) Insert the pinion shaft block (with punch marked sides facing the short shaft holes and the side marked 1 facing up). Install the thrust block and continue to drive the shaft through the pinion shaft thrust block and pinion shaft block.

(5) Install the opposite pinion gear and thrust washer. Drive the shaft into final position.

(6) Drive one of the short pinion shafts into either of the remaining holes, until the shaft protrudes about Vio inch on the inside of case. Be sure the lock pin holes line up. Install pinion gear and thrust washer and continue to drive until shaft enters hole in the pinion shaft block. Install the other short shaft, washer and gear in the same manner.

(7) Lock the three pinion shafts in the case

(by installing three new locking pins in the holes) and peen over.

(8) Clamp the completed assembly in vise and heat the outside surface of the threaded portion of the case with a torch flame, as in the disassembly procedure.

(9) Dip the threaded portion of the cap in gear oil. Assemble the thrust washer and the differential side gear in the cap, and screw into the differential case with wrench Tool

DD-921, as shown in Figure 22. Tighten securely in position with a blunt drift and hammer.

(10) Drive three new differential case cap lock pins

/i(

inch below the surface of case.

Peen the metal of the case over the pins with a ball end punch, as shown in Figure 27.

(11) Install the differential bearing cones on the case, using Tool DD-1004. Check the case runout, as shown in Figure 19.

36—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

52x372

Fig. 28 — Removing the Companion Flange

SEAL

52x373

Fig. 29 — Removing Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal

15. REMOVAL OF AXLE DRIVE PINION

FROM CARRIER (ALL MODELS) a. Removal

(1) With the carrier assembly mounted in stand, remove the companion flange retaining cotter pin nut and washer.

NOTE

When using Tool C-293-C, use Number 36 plates also.

(6) Remove both bearing cups from carrier assembly with a suitable drift. Be sure to drive both cups out evenly.

(2) On all models, remove drive pinion flange with utility puller Tool C-549.

(3) Remove the pinion shaft oil seal. Use Tool

DD-993 to remove drive pinion oil seal from differential carrier assembly. Refer to Figure 29.

b. Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

(4) Remove the oil slinger, bearing cone, spacer and shims (if so equipped), pinion adjusting washer, bearing cone and pinion from carrier housing.

(5) To remove or install the rear bearing from

(or on) drive pinion, use special Tool DD-

914 (for Model C-70) and Tool C-293-C for all other models (Fig. 30).

6X58

Fig. 30—Removing Bearing from Axle Drive Pinion

1-Bearing 2-Pinion 3-Tool C-293-C

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CROSS BORE

TUBE

COMPRESSION

SLEEVE

REAR AXLE—37

(2) Check the bearings for roughness, or brineling. The bearings must run free and show no indication of roughness or wear.

(3) Clean carrier housing thoroughly, inspect oil passages and inside of housing for burrs, grit or dirt.

WRENCH

GAUGE "BLOCK 49 x 621

Fig. 3 1 — Special Tool Set C-758-D2

Remove any chips or foreign material from the carrier housing. Inspect all machined surfaces for nicks, burrs or scratches. Inspect the thrust shoulders in the carrier housing (bearing cups) to make sure there are no burrs on them. The thrust shoulder must be flat so that the bearing cups will seat properly.

CAUTION

Do not rotate the bearings with air pressure when blowing them dry, as damage to the bearings may result from this practice.

16. INSTALLATION OF DRIVE PINION

BEARING CUPS

Place the bearing cups in position in the carrier. Then, refer to Figures 31 and 32 and proceed as follows:

(1) With the bearing cups squarely in position in the carrier, assemble Tool C-758-D2 by

52x378

Fig. 33—Seating Bearing Cups in Carrier Housing TOOL—CROSSBORE TUBE

AXLE DRIVE PINION ADJUSTING WASHER OR SHIMS

AXLE DRIVE PINION BEARING SPACER

AXLE DRIVE PINION BEARING ADJUSTING

SHIMS

TOOL—COMPRESSION SLEEVE

TOOL—COMPRESSION NUT

TOOL-CENTRALIZING WASHER

AXLE DRIVE PINION BEARINGS

TOOL—MAIN BODY

TOOL-GAUGE BLOCK

4 9 x

Fig. 32—Main Body, Bearings, Spacer and

Shims Installed (Tool C-758-D2) placing the rear pinion bearing over the main screw of tool and inserting into carrier from the gear side.

(2) Place the front pinion bearing over the main screw, followed by adaptor SP-535, washer SP-534 and nut SP-533. Press the bearing cups into place by tightening the tool nut, as shown in Figure 33.

NOTE

Alloiv the tool to rotate slightly in order to avoid damaging the bearings or cups during this operation.

38—REAR AXLE

A 49x611

Fig. 34—Tightening Compression Nut with Foot-

Pound Torque Wrench

CAUTION

Do not install the pinion oil seal during the preload and pinion setting operations. Otherwise, there will be an added drag on the pinion shaft which would give a false bearing pre-load on the torque wrench.

17. REAR AXLE ADJUSTMENT

To set the drive gear and pinion for quiet operation and long life, the following adjustments must be made in the order indicated.

(1) Pinion bearing pre-load.

(2) Pinion setting.

49x612

Fig. 35—Checking Torque Required to Turn Main Body

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(3) Differential bearing pre-load.

(4) Backlash between drive gear and pinion.

Each adjustment is important because each one has a significant effect on the final goal— good tooth contact.

Pinion Bearing Pre-load

The importance of correct pinion bearing preload cannot be over-emphasized. The selection of washers to give the desired pre-load should be carefully made.

(1) Where pinion bearings are installed without pre-loading, the cones are not drawn far enough into their cups to bring the rollers in full contact with the thrust ribs on the cones. Bearings installed in this manner would allow the pinion to "walk" backward and forward under operating loads.

This causes a variation in tooth contact pattern, resulting in excessive wear and scoring of gears which usually is accompanied by noise.

(2) On the other hand, where the pinion bearing cones are drawn too far into their cups, the bearings are overloaded before they have to withstand operating loads imposed upon them by the gears. They are apt to

"burn up" under a driving load—the rollers might score the cups, causing bearings to spall or flake, resulting in premature axle failure.

18. SETTING DRIVE PINION PRE-LOAD, C-67

(EXCEPT TOWN AND COUNTRY WAGON)

With the use of special Tool C-758-D2 (Fig.

31), items 1 and 2, pinion bearing pre-load and pinion setting can be pre-determined, thus saving considerable time and labor incurred in the old trial and error method. Also, the pinion bearing cups can be installed with this tool.

Install cups in housing. Assemble the bearing cones and tool in carrier without the bearing spacer. Tighten the main nut, drawing cups into their proper position.

NOTE

Turn the tool and bearings at intervals to help line up bearing cups and avoid possible damage to the bearings.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(1) With bearing cups in carrier, slide rear bearing cone and spacer over main body of tool and insert in carrier.

(2) Slide adjusting shims and front bearing cone over main body, as shown in Figure 33.

(3) Place compression sleeve, centralizing washer and compression nut over main body, and tighten to 240 minimum footpounds torque, as shown in Figure 34.

(4) Remove torque wrench and, with a speed wrench, rotate main body of tool to seat bearings properly.

(5) Use an inch-pound wrench to read the torque required to turn main body, as shown in Figure 35. Desired torque should be from 20 to 30 inch-pounds. It may be necessary to add or remove shims to obtain desired torque. In this case, loosen up the assembly and add or remove shims as required.

19. SETTING DRIVE PINION, C-67 (EXCEPT

TOWN AND COUNTRY WAGON)

(1) Place gauge block on top of body and tighten in place, as shown in Figure 36

(gauge block takes place of drive pinion).

(2) Assemble cross bore gauge bar to carrier bearing supports, as shown in Figure 37.

Tighten cap screws to hold bar in place.

(3) The distance between gauge block and cross bore gauge bar determines thickness of spacer washer to be used, as shown in Figure 38. The pinion washer to be used is obtained by finding the thickness of the washer that slides between the cross bore gauge bar and the gauge block with a slight drag.

This washer will be the correct size for assembly, provided the pinion has no correction indicated on the small end of the pinion head. In manufacture, after the pinion is lapped in with the gear, the position of the pinion for best tooth contact is etched on the small end of the pinion head as a

+ or — number. This number is the number of thousandths of an inch between the

"best bearing" position and the standard position. A +2 would indicate that the pinion should be located .002 inch farther

TOOL GAUGE BLOCK

REAR AXLE—39

Fig. 36—Installing Gauge Block on Main Body

9 x 6 1 3 than the standard setting away from the drive gear. This amount (.002 inch) should be subtracted from the washer thickness of the washer that slides between the cross bore and gauge block. For example, if the gauge indicated that a carrier and rear pinion bearing combination required a pinion washer .090 inch thick, the washer to be used in the assembly is not known until the pinion is inspected for its position mark.

If it is marked 0, the spacer to be used in this example is .090 inch. If the pinion is marked +2, the spacer should be .088 inch thick. If the pinion is marked —2, the spacer to be used is .092 inch thick.

Fig. 37—Installing Cross Bore Gauge Bar

4 9 x 6 1 4

40—REAR AXLE

49x615

Fig. 38—Checking Spacer Washer Thickness

(4) Slide the pinion washer over the pinion shaft with the chamfered side against the

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL pinion. Install the rear pinion bearing, using

Tool C-3O95 and a suitable arbor press.

(5) Install the pinion in the differential carrier.

Slide the bearing spacer, bearing pre-load shim pack, bearing cone and oil slinger over shaft and down into position.

(6) Install a new oil seal, using driver Tool

DD-807, as shown in Figure 40. Install the companion flange, washer and nut. Tighten to 240 minimum foot-pounds torque.

20. PINION PRE-LOAD AND PINION SETTING

(C-68, C-69, C-70 AND C-67, TOWN AND

COUNTRY WAGON)

The above models use a large bearing at the rear of the drive pinion. The shoulder is close to the front bearing, so the enlarged section of the pinion shaft performs the function of spacing the pinion bearings.

NO WASHER OR SPACER

ASSY. T327868

P—561

PINION LOCATING x

PINION BEARING PRELOAD SPACER

PRE-DETERMINED PINION LOCATING 1327832 OR CORRECT SIZE

WASHER 1327853 OR CORRECT SIZE _ " \ — - ^ ,

\ ^ v ^ — v

SP— 1371^.VLf ^ ^ f f ' x 999

Fig. 39—Setting Pinion Bearing Pre-load with Tool C-758-D2

P—Plug SP—Spacer

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Adjustment of bearing pre-load is left to a thick spacer (approximately %

inch), available in various thicknesses, and selected to give preload within the limits specified.

Pinion bearing spacers are available in fifteen different sizes as follows:

Spacer Thickness

.175 in.

.177 in.

.179 in.

.181 in.

.183 in.

.185 in.

.187 in.

.189 in.

.191 in.

.193 in.

.195 in.

.197 in.

.199 in.

.201 in.

.203 in.

To check and adjust the pinion bearing preload, refer to Figure 39, and proceed as follows:

(1) Assemble spacer SP-1371 to the main section of the tool and install spacer SP-1370.

Correct pinion bearing pre-load should have a drag torque of not more than 25 to 35 inchpounds with the pinion seal removed.

(2) Slide the pinion rear bearing over spacer

SP-1370 and up against spacer SP-1371.

(3) Insert the tool, as assembled, into the carrier housing. Slide front bearing over the tool shaft and into its proper position in the bearing cup.

(4) Tighten the tool compression nut so that the torque required to rotate the tool assembly on the bearings is 25 to 35 inchpounds, with the bearings lubricated with hypoid gear oil.

(5) Assemble the gauge block SP-528 to the main screw. Place SP-561 bearing arbor in the differential carrier bearing supports, as shown in Figure 39.

NOTE

Remove any burvs or upsets in the bearing sup-

REAR AXLE—41 ports before installing the bearing arbor, as the arbor must be securely seated in the bottom of bearing bores. Carefully tighten the retaining bolts to 10 foot-pounds torque.

(6) Select a pinion washer of sufficient thickness so that it will just pass between the gauge block end of the setting tool and the machined surface of the arbor, as shown in Figure 38.

For example, if a .090 inch washer can be inserted, but a .092 washer cannot be forced between the two surfaces by hand, the .090 inch washer should be used even though it might feel loose.

Check the end of the drive pinion, as it should indicate the amount that should be added or subtracted from the washer that was selected in the above check.

As example, if the mark on the pinion shaft indicated + 2 , a .002 inch thinner washer should be used for the final assembly. If a spacer selected by the use of the tool is .090 inch, it is necessary to deduct .002 inch. Therefore, the correct washer for final assembly would be

.088 inch.

When the correct washer has been selected for the drive pinion, disassemble the tool from the differential carrier housing.

(7) Add the washer selected to the tool, between the spacer SP-1371 and the pinion rear bearing. Add the spacer SP-1370 and the pinion bearing adjusting spacer (that was removed from the axle at disassembly) . Insert the tool assembly in the carrier housing.

(8) Slide the front bearing on the shaft and into position in its cup. Install the tool spacer, nut and washer.

(9) Tighten tool to 250 minimum foot-pounds torque as shown in Figure 34.

Turn the tool.with a speed wrench to permit the bearings to seat. When the bearings have

42—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PRESS

TOOL

REAR BEARING CONE

]Jmrm<.

DRIVE PINION

52x382

Fig. 40—Installing Bearing on Pinion Shaft

52x383

Fig. 41—Installing the Drive Pinion Oil Seal been seated, check the bearing pre-load by revolving the tool, using an inch-pound torque wrench, as shown in Figure 35.

The correct bearing pre-load should be 25-

35 inch-pounds torque.

If the bearing adjustment does not conform to the above specifications, it will be necessary to change the adjustment by using a thicker or thinner bearing spacer. A thicker spacer should be used if the pre-load is too great or a thinner spacer if the pre-load is not sufficient.

When the correct spacer has been selected for the drive pinion bearings, disassemble the tool from the differential carrier housing.

(10) Slide the pinion washer over the pinion shaft with the chamfered side against the pinion. Install the rear pinion bearing, using Tool C-3095 and a suitable arbor press (See Fig. 40).

(11) Install the pinion in the differential carrier. Slide the bearing adjusting spacer, bearing and oil slinger over shaft and down into position.

(12) Install a new oil seal, using driver Tool

DD-807, as shown in Figure 41. Install the companion flange, washer and nut. Tighten to 250 minimum foot-pounds torque.

21. SETTING DIFFERENTIAL BEARING

PRE-LOAD AND BACKLASH

(ALL MODELS)

Differential bearing pre-load and backlash between the drive gear and pinion are obtained after pinion bearing pre-load and pinion settings, as described in Paragraph 20.

(1) Place the differential bearing cups over the bearings and install complete assembly in the carrier housing.

(2) Seat the adjusters in the pedestals of the carrier housing and install the caps and bolts.

NOTE

Be sure the caps are on the same side from which they were removed.

(3) Mount a dial indicator with the pointer resting against the back face of the ring gear and check the runout. Runout should be true within .005 inch, as shown in Figure 42.

In order to make certain that the differential bearings and cups are properly seated, proceed as follows:

(4) Using spanner wrench Tool C-406, as shown in Figure 44, turn the right-hand bearing adjuster clockwise until considerable backlash exists between the ring gear and the pinion. Back off the adjuster several turns.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE —43

52x386

Fig. 42—Checking Ring Gear Runout

Fig. 43—Checking Backlash between

Ring Gear and Pinion

2x387

(5) Tighten the lower pedestal bolts to 90 footpounds, leaving the top bolts slightly loose.

This holds the bearing cups in line while moving the ring gear.

(6) Mount the dial indicator on the carrier so that the plunger rests against one of the ring gear teeth, as shown in Figure 43.

(Make certain that the indicator is properly positioned so that the plunger will accurately indicate the exact amount of backlash.)

(7) Check the backlash between the ring gear and the pinion at 90 degree intervals as the ring gear is rotated. Stop at the point of last backlash.

(8) Turn the left-hand bearing adjuster clockwise until only .001 inch backlash exists between the ring gear and the pinion. Be sure that the right-hand adjuster is kept screwed out so that the bearing cup can move without interference.

(9) Make certain that the left-hand bearing adjuster is in position where the nut lock and attaching bolt can be installed. Tighten the upper left-hand bearing cap bolt to 90 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE

In order to properly pre-load the bearings, the entire procedure must be very carefully performed. Therefore, it is important to complete the operation with .001 inch clearance between the ring gear and the pinion before the upper bolt is tightened.

(10) Turn the right-hand adjuster clockwise until the dial indicator shows a backlash of .006 inch between the ring gear and the pinion, as shown in Figure 43.

Considerable effort will be required to turn the adjusting nut to the last notch or two. However, this is necessary to insure adequate preload. The adjustment should be performed so that the adjuster lock and attaching bolt can be installed.

52x388

Fig. 44—Adjusting Differential Bearings

44—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

46x25S

Fig. 45—Applying Gear Marking Compound to Gear Teeth

(11) Tighten the right-hand bearing cap attaching bolt to 90 foot-pounds torque, and recheck the other three. After final tightening of all pedestal bolts, recheck the backlash.

As a result of this method of adjustment, the carrier pedestals have been spread, the differential bearings have been pre-loaded, and the backlash between the ring gear and pinion has been correctly set.

CAUTION

Whenever the adjustment of the differential assembly is changed to obtain correct tooth contact, re-adjust the differential bearing pre-load and the backlash betiveen the ring gear and pinion.

Checking Tooth Contact

If all the adjustments have been correctly made, the gears will be properly meshed and quiet in operation. Proper tooth contact is essential for quiet gear operation and long life. Therefore, it is necessary that the tooth contact be checked with gear marking compound before the differential carrier assembly is installed in the axle housing.

22. GEAR ADJUSTMENT FOR CORRECT

TOOTH CONTACT

(1) If improper tooth contact is evident, as indicated by Figures 47 and 48, the pinion should be adjusted either forward or backward, maintaining the backlash within specified limits until correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 46, is obtained.

(2) Check tooth contact by means of the gear marking compound applied to the drive gear teeth, as shown in Figure 45. Apply load against the back face of the drive gear with a round bar as the drive pinion

Fig. 46—Correct Gear Tooth Contact is rotated. This leaves a bare area the size, shape and location of contact.

(3) With adjustments properly made, correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 46, will result. Notice that the contact pattern is well centered on the drive and coast sides about y

inch from the edges of the teeth.

When tooth marks are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. However, under an actual operating load, the contact area will spread out—the higher the load, the greater becomes the contact area.

(4) Figures 47 and 48 show improper or incorrect tooth contact. To correct such conditions, readjust the drive gear and pinion as follows: a. Heavy Face Contact

If the tooth marking is across the length of the tooth, narrow and high on the tooth face, as shown in Figure 47, the teeth will roll over or gall. This type of contact causes excessive wear and noise.

Fig. 47—Heavy Face Contact

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

REAR AXLE—45

Fig. 48—Heavy Flank Contact

To correct heavy face contact—move the pinion in toward the center of the drive gear by installing a thicker washer behind the pinion. Readjust backlash.

b. Heavy Flank Contact

If the tooth marking is across the length of the tooth, but narrow and low on the flank, as shown in Figure 48, the teeth will gall or score.

This type of contact causes excessive wear and noise.

To correct heavy flank contact—move the pinion away from the center of the drive gear by using a thinner washer behind the pinion.

Readjust backlash.

23. INSTALLATION OF AXLE ASSEMBLY

Check carrier housing flange and flange face on differential housing for nicks and burrs.

(1) Mount the differential carrier to the axle housing, using a new gasket. Tighten the mounting nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Reinstall rear axle shafts, brake supports and check axle end play, as outlined in

Paragraph 4. Connect brake tubes, bleed brakes, install rear wheels, and tighten rear axle shaft nuts to a minimum of 145 foot-pounds torque. Install new cotter key.

(3) Reinstall propeller shaft and fill the rear axle differential with the correct viscosity

Hypoid oil. Refer to the Lubrication Section.

24. REAR AXLE HOUSING ALIGNMENT

Rear axle housings may become bent, bowed or warped. If not corrected, such conditions will cause premature axle failure. Disassemble axle assembly and check housing for horizontal and vertical alignment, as described below.

a. Checking Axle Housing for Horizontal

Alignment

(1) Place axle housing in "V" blocks—on surface plate.

(2) Turn housing until machined surface for carrier mounting is facing UP and is perfectly level, as shown in Figure 49.

(3) Place square against machined surface of housing end flange and surface plate, as shown in Figure 50. Amount of housing

49x625

Pig. 49—Leveling Housing for Checking Alignment Fig. 50—Checking Horizontal Alignment

46—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 51—Squaring Axle for Vertical Alignment misalignment will be indicated by the thickness of feeler gauge between square and end flange at top or bottom. A housing that checks more than .007 inch should be replaced.

b. Checking Axle Housing for Vertical

Alignment

(1) With housing in "V" blocks, turn housing until machined surface for carrier mounting is in a squared, vertical position, as shown in Figure 51.

(2) Place square against machined surface of housing end flange and surface plate, as shown in Figure 52. Amount of housing misalignment will be indicated by the thickness of feeler gauge between square and end flange at top or bottom. A housing that checks more than .007 should be replaced.

(3) To determine the amount that axle is misaligned, multiply the thickness of feeler stock used by the ration of 4.7 to 1.

• 9 x627

Fig. 52—Checking Vertical Alignment

25. WELDING REAR AXLE HOUSING

Arc welding of complete rear axle assemblies to repair leaking housings, covers, loose or broken spring seats and brake line clips, has been common shop practice for some time. However, recent investigations have proven that arc welding should definitely not be used for repairing the rear axle housing, unless axle is completely disassembled.

It is possible for arcing electric current to jump the gap and damage roller bearings when there is end play. The damage is similar to brinelled bearing marks. It is further possible for damage to be done to the faces of the drive gear and pinion, as well as to the differential side gears and pinions, if conditions are just right for the existence of sufficient backlash gap on these parts to cause arcing.

Grounding of arc welding equipment is not effective in preventing damage. Instead of arc welding equipment, gas welding equipment should always be used on rear axle housing, unless the unit is completely disassembled.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE—47

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

26. REAR WHEEL NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Wheel loose on axle shaft.

b. Worn drum or axle shaft keyways.

c. Wheel hub bolts loose.

d. Insufficient bearing lubrication.

e. Scored wheel bearing cup or cone.

f. Defective, brinelled wheel bearing.

g. Excessive axle shaft end play.

Remedies: a. Check keyways for possible damage. Reset drum and tighten nut to 145 foot-pounds minimum torque.

b. If keyways in hub and axle shaft show excessive wear, replace hub and axle shaft to correct this condition.

c. Tighten loose wheel hub bolts.

d. Check bearings for possible damage and replace if necessary. Refer to Lubrication Section for proper lubrication.

e. Check rear wheel bearings. If scored or show signs of wear, they should be replaced.

f. Defective or brinelled bearings must be replaced. Check rear axle shaft end play.

g. Readjust axle shaft end play to bring desired clearance of .003 to .008 inch.

27. NOISE IN REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY

Possible Causes: a. Misaligned axle housing.

b. Bent or sprung axle shaft.

c. End play in drive pinion bearings.

d. Excessive gear lash between drive gear and pinion.

e. Improper adjustment of drive pinion bearings.

f. Loose drive pinion companion flange nut.

g. Improper wheel bearing adjustment.

h. Scuffed gear tooth contact surfaces.

Remedies: a. Refer to Rear Axle Housing Alignment,

Paragraph 24, in this Section.

b. Replace bent or sprung axle shaft.

c. Refer to Pinion Bearing Pre-load, Paragraph 20, in this Section.

d. Refer to Backlash Adjustment, Paragraph

21, in this Section.

e. Adjust pinion bearings, as outlined in

Rear Axle Adjustment, Paragraph 17, in this

Section.

f. Tighten drive pinion flange nut.

g. Check axle shaft end play. Readjust to bring desired end play clearance of .003 to .008

inch.

h. Check lubricant. Replace scuffed gears.

For correct tooth contact, refer to Paragraph

22, in this Section.

28. REAR AXLE DRIVE SHAFT BREAKAGE

Possible Causes: a. Improprely adjusted wheel bearings.

b. Misaligned axle housing.

c. Vehicle overloaded.

d. Abnormal clutch operation.

e. Grabbing clutch.

Remedies: a. Replace broken shaft and readjust end play to desired clearance of .003 to .008 inch.

b. Replace broken shaft, after correcting

Rear Axle Housing Alignment, as outlined in

Paragraph 24, in this Section.

c. Replace broken shaft. Avoid excessive weight in or on car.

48—REAR AXLE d. Replace broken shaft after checking for other possible causes. Avoid erratic use of clutch.

e. Replace broken shaft. Refer to Clutch,

Section IV, to correct this condition.

29. DIFFERENTIAL CASE BREAKAGE

Possible Causes:

a. Improper adjustment of differential bearings.

b. Excessive drive gear clearance.

c. Vehicle overloaded.

d. Erratic clutch operation.

Remedies:

a. Replace broken case and examine gears and bearings for possible damage. At reassembly, adjust differential bearings, as outlined in

Rear Axle Adjustment, Paragraph 17, in this

Section.

b. Replace broken case and examine gears and bearings for possible damage. At reassembly, adjust drive gear and pinion backlash to required specification of .006 to .008 inch, as outlined in Rear Axle Adjustment, Paragraph

17, in this Section.

c. Replace broken case and examine gears and bearings for possible damage. Avoid excessive weight in or on car.

d. Replace broken case. After checking for other possible causes, examine gears and bearings for possible damage. Avoid erratic use of clutch.

30. DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR BROKEN AT HUB

Possible Causes: a. Excessive axle housing deflection.

b. Misaligned or bent axle shaft.

c. Worn thrust washers.

Remedies: a. Replace damaged gears. Examine other gears and bearings for possible damage. Check

Rear Axle Housing Alignment, as outlined in

Paragraph 24, in this Section.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Replace damaged gears. Check axle shafts for alignment, and examine other gears and bearings for possible damage.

c. Replace damaged gears. Examine other gears and bearings for possible damage. Replace thrust washers that are badly worn. Side gear to thrust washer clearance should be from .004

to .012 inch.

31. SCORING OF DIFFERENTIAL GEARS

Possible Causes:

a. Insufficient lubrication.

b. Improper grade of lubricant.

c. Excessive spinning of one wheel.

d. Excessive loads.

Remedies:

a. Replace scored gears. Scoring marks on the pressure face of gear teeth, or in the bore are caused by instantaneous fusing of the mating surfaces. Scored gears should be replaced.

Fill rear axle to required capacity with Extreme

Pressure Hypoid Lubricant SAE 90 (winter and summer), or with SAE 80 below —10 degrees F.

b. Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears and bearings for possible damage. Clean out and refill axle with Extreme Pressure Hypoid Lubricant SAE 90 (winter and summer), or with

SAE 80 below —10 degrees F.

c. Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears, pinion bores and shaft for scoring or bearings for possible damage.

d. Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears, bearings, pinion bores and shaft for scoring or possible damage. Avoid excessive weight in or on car.

32. TOOTH BREAKAGE (DRIVE GEAR AND

PINION)

Possible Causes: a. Overloading.

b. Erratic clutch operation.

c. Ice-spotted pavements.

d. Improper adjustment.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Remedies: a. Replace gears. Examine other gears and bearings for possible damage. Replace parts as needed. Avoid excessive weight in car.

b. Replace gears, being careful to examine remaining parts for possible damage. Avoid erratic clutch operation.

c. Replace gears. Examine remaining parts for possible damage. Replace parts as required.

d. Replace gears. Examine other parts for possible damage. Drive gear and pinion backlash should be .006 to .008 inch. Refer to Gear

Adjustment for Correct Tooth Contact, Paragraph 22, in this Section.

33. REAR AXLE NOISE

Rear axle noises are generally divided into three groups:

(1) Gear Noise on Pull — If the noise is of a heavy pitch and increases as the car speed is increased, it is an indication of scored teeth due to loss of lubricant, incorrect mesh of teeth or wrong type of lubricant.

(2) Gear Noise on Coast — If noise is heavy and irregular, it is an indication of scored teeth as a result of excessive end play in pinion bearings or by incorrect adjustments.

(3) Bearing Noise on Pull or Coast — This indicates bearings are chipped, cracked, scored, badly worn or loose, or the pinion is improperly positioned. Bearings, that are badly worn or broken, will make a gravelly, rough, grating sound that may change slightly in volume as speed changes.

Possible Causes: a. Insufficient lubricant.

b. Improper drive gear and pinion adjustment.

c. Unmatched drive gear and pinion.

d. Worn teeth on drive gear or pinion.

e. Loose drive pinion bearings.

f. Loose differential gear bearings.

REAR AXLE—49 g. Misaligned or sprung drive gear.

h. Loose carrier housing bolts.

Remedies: a. If an axle is noisy because of insufficient lubricant, it is too late to obtain any benefit by adding lubricant. The gears or bearings, or both, are likely to be damaged. Inspect all parts, replace damaged parts, and check axle and housing assembly for leaks.

b. Check drive gear and pinion tooth contact, as outlined in Gear Adjustment for Correct

Tooth Contact, Paragraph 22, in this Section.

c. Remove unmatched drive gear and pinion.

Replace with a new matched gear and pinion set.

Refer to Removal and Inspection of Differential

Carrier Assembly, Paragraph 7, in this Section.

d. Check teeth on drive gear and pinion for contact, as outlined in Gear Adjustment for Correct Tooth Contact, Paragraph 22, in this Section. If necessary, replace with new matched set.

e. Adjust drive pinion bearings, as outlined in Rear Axle Adjustment, Paragraph 17, in this

Section.

f. Adjust differential gear bearings, as outlined in Rear Axle Adjustment, Paragraph 17, in this Section.

g. Check drive gear for runout.

h. Tighten carrier housing nuts to required torque. Check for oil leaks.

34. LOSS OF LUBRICANT

Possible Causes: a. Lubricant level too high.

b. Worn axle shaft oil seals.

c. Cracked rear axle housing.

d. Worn drive pinion oil seal.

e. Scored and worn companion flange.

Remedies: a. Drain excess lubricant by removing filler plug, allowing lubricant to level at lower edge of filler plug hole.

50—REAR AXLE b. Replace worn oil seals. Prepare new seals before installation. See Paragraph 4.

c. Refer to Welding Rear Axle Housing,

Paragraph 25, in this Section.

d. Replace worn drive pinion oil seal. Prepare new oil seal before installation. See Paragraph 21.

e. Replace worn or scored companion flange and oil seal. Prepare new oil seal before installation.

35. OVER-HEATING OF UNIT

Possible Causes: a. Lubricant level too low.

b. Incorrect grade of lubricant.

c. Bearings adjusted too tightly.

d. Excessive wear in gears.

e. Insufficient drive gear to pinion clearance.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Remedies: a. Refill rear axle, allowing lubricant to level at lower edge of filler plug hole.

b. Drain, flush and refill rear axle with Extreme Pressure Hypoid Lubricant SAE 90

(winter and summer), or with SAE 80 below

—10 degrees F.

c. Readjust differential bearings to required pre-load.

d. Check gears for excessive wear or scoring.

Replace as necessary.

e. Readjust drive gear and pinion backlash from .006 to .008 inch. Check gears for possible scoring.

NOTE

Oil seals may be destroyed by excessive heat.

Replace cracked or hardened seals.

Section III

BRAKES

NUMBER DATE

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

SUBJECT CHANGES

52—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

C-68

C-69, C-300, C-67

T & C Wagon C-67

SERVICE BRAKES

Type

Drum Diameter

Clearance Between Lining and Drum Heel and Toe

(All Shoes)

Lining Type

Attachment to Shoes. .

Width

Thickness

Brake Shoe Return

Spring Tension

(Foot-Pounds) —Front

Rear.

Per Cent of Braking

Torque—Rear Wheels.

Diameter of Wheel

Cylinder Bore

Diameter of Master

Cylinder Bore

Hydraulic

12"

.006"

Molded Asbestos

Bonded

.200"

40 to 50 at 5%"

sotoeoats

/^"

1%"

Piston Cylinder Clearance

(All Bores)

Brake Pedal Return

Spring—Min. Pounds..

Brake Pedal Free Play...

.003 to .0065"

2 at3iy

1 6

Vs to y

Hydraulic

12"

.006"

Molded Asbestos

Bonded

.200"

40 to 50 at 5 %"

50 to 60 at 5^/KJ"

w

.68"

.003 to .0065"

None

Hydraulic

12"

.006"

Molded Asbestos

Bonded

.200"

40 to 50 at 5 %"

50 to 60 at 5 * He"

1" (C-67-2)

.68" (C-69)

.003 to .0065"

None

Except C-67

HAND BRAKE

(Except C-70 Model)

Type

*Location

Drum Diameter (Except

8-Pass. Models)

Lining Type

Width

Thickness

Clearance

External

Contracting**

Propeller Shaft at

Rear of

Transmission

Woven and Compressed Asbestos

.160"

.015 to .020"

Internal

Expanding

Propeller Shaft at

Rear of

Transmission

Molded and Compressed Asbestos*

.160"

.015 to .020"

*This data also applies for C-67 Models when equipped with PowerFlite.

tThis data also applies for C-70 Models.

**With 3-speed transmission only.

Internal

Expanding

Propeller Shaft at

Rear of

Transmission

Molded and Compressed Asbestosf

2"t

.160"f

.015 to .020"f

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—53

HAND BRAKES (Contd.)

HAND BRAKE (C-70 Model with PowerFlite)

Type Internal Expanding

Location Propeller Shaft at Rear of

Drum Diameter 7"

Transmission

Lining

Type Molded Asbestos

Width 2"

Thickness 160"

Clearance 015 to .020"

• DISC BRAKES (C-70 MODEL)

Type Hydraulic, Two-Cylinder

Self-Energizing Disc

Housing—Material Cast Iron

Face Diameter—Inside 9%"

Outside 12"

Pressure Plate (No. Per Wheel) 2

No. of Lining Segments Per Plate 6

Lining Type Molded Asbestos

Attached to Segments By Cyclebond

Thickness 160"

Clearance Between Lining and Housing Self Adjusting

Diameter of Wheel Cylinder Bore—

Front 1*4"

Rear 1"

Diameter of Master Cylinder Bore 1"

Brake Booster None

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Torque

(Foot-Pounds)

B R A K E SHOE A N C H O R BOLT NUTS 75

R E A R B R A K E SUPPORT TO A X L E HOUSING

F L A N G E BOLTS A N D NUTS. . 35

F R O N T B R A K E SUPPORT TO STEERING K N U C K L E

S C R E W 35

BRAKE SUPPORT TO WHEEL CYLINDER BOLTS 20

WHEEL CYLINDER BLEEDER SCREW (

I N C H ) . . . 10

WHEEL CYLINDER BLEEDER SCREW (% INCH) 15

HAND BRAKE SUPPORT BOLTS 55

PEDAL BRACKET TO PEDAL 30

BRACKET TO DASH PANEL STUDS 20

BRACKET TO BOOSTER STUDS .- 20

54—BRAKES

PUSH ROD

OIL WASHER

WASHER

WHEEL CYLINDER ASSY—UPPER

CONNECTING TUBE

SHOES AND FACINGS

BRAKE SUPPORT

BLEEDER SCREW,

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COTTER PIN

RETAINER

ANCHOR BOLT—SHORT

WASHER

ANCHOR BOLT—LONG

PUSH ROD

OIL WASHER

RETAINER

Fig. 1—Front Brake (Disassembled View)

CAM PIN, SPRING AND

CAM PIN BUTTON

ADJUSTING CAM

WHEEL CYLINDER ASSY—LOWER

4 6 x 8 0 A

SHOE AND F A C I N G -

FRONT

BLEEDER SCREW

WHEEL CYLINDER ASSY

PUSH ROD

BRAKE SUPPORT

BOLT

AXLE SHAFT SEAL

NUTS

RETURN SPRING

WASHERS

RETAINERS

OIL WASHERS

SHOE AND FACING—REAR

LOCKWASHERS

ADJUSTING CAM

CAM PIN AND

BUTTON

GUIDE SPRING

4 6 x 8 1 A

Fig. 2—Rear Brake (Disassembled View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—55

Section HI

SHOE TYPE SERVICE BRAKES

(FIGS. 1 AND 2)

1. GENERAL

When servicing the hydraulic brake system, three important rules must be remembered:

(1) All vital parts of the system must be kept

CLEAN, free from dirt, grease and oil.

(2) The system must be free of air and all connections sealed tight upon completion of the job.

(3) Only high boiling point brake fluid such as

MOPAR Super Brake Fluid, should be used.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

2. SERVICING THE MASTER CYLINDER

To remove the master cylinder, refer to Figure

3, and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove pedal return spring.

(2) Disconnect push rod by removing shoulder bolt and nut.

(3) Disconnect brake line tube at master cylinder.

(4) Disconnect stop light switch leads.

(5) Remove bolts from master cylinder body and remove cylinder from firewall.

Clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly. Remove reservoir filler plug and drain all brake fluid. Refer to Figure 4 and disassemble master cylinder for inspection.

Replace master cylinder piston if it is badly scored or corroded. Piston cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning master cylinder.

Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. Cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring can be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A master cylinder bore that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder used. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)

WINDSHIELD

ACCELERATOR

PEOAL-

PEDAL LOCATION

55XIOA

Fig. 3—Master Cylinder Location and Linkage

56—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BOLT-

END

NUT

ROD

VALVE

55x81

NOTE

Fig. 4—Master Cylinder (Disassembled View)

Use extreme care in cleaning master cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and clean a second time with alcohol. Dry master cylinder ivith air pressure and flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure the relief port in the master cylinder is open.) spring hook from hole. Turn handle in opposite direction to release, as shown in Figure 5.

Shoe return springs should never be gripped with pliers or side cutters.

Before assembling, the piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in new MOPAR Super

Brake Fluid.

3. R^OVAL AND INSTALLATION OF BRAKE

SHOES a. Removal

(1) Block brake pedal in released position to prevent its downward movement. Remove wheel and hub assembly.

(2) Remove brake shoe return srings with pliers, Tool G-864.

Insert tool in spring hole so that slot in cam engages spring hook. Turn handle to disengage

49x71

Fig. 5—Removing and Installing Brake Shoe

Return Spring

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—57

WHEEL CYLINDER

CYLINDER BOOT

PISTON CUP

BLEEDER SCREW

% 49x715

Fig. 6—Removing Brake Shoe

(3) Remove anchor bolt horseshoe washers with

Tool C-443. Remove oil washer retainers and oil washers and slide shoes off anchor bolts, as shown in Figure 6.

NOTE

Check brake shoe return springs for tension.

Refer to Data and Specifications.

b. Installation

CAUTION

When installing brake shoes, exercise care to prevent brake fluid from leaking onto lining.

If one of the wheel cylinder pistons should accidentally be forced out of the cylinder, install and bleed brake lines. Make sure brake support plate is not sprung.

(1) Slide the shoes, oil washers, and oil washer retainers back on the anchor bolts. Secure by installing the anchor bolt washers.

(2) To install brake shoe return springs, use pliers, Tool C-864, and repeat procedure in reverse order.

4. SERVICING WHEEL CYLINDERS

Wheel cylinder pistons that are badly scored or corroded should be replaced. Old piston cups should be discarded when reconditioning the Hydraulic system.

Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. Cylinders that have deep

RETURN SPRING

PISTON CUP EXPANDER

PISTON

BRAKE SHOE PUSH ROD

49x644

Fig. 7—Front Wheel Cylinder (Disassembled View) scratches or scoring may be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A cylinder that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder used. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the piston cups.)

Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the wheel cylinder, dip them in new MOPAR

Super Brake Fluid.

Refer to Figure 7 or 8 and assemble wheel cylinder. If the boots are faulty or do not fit tightly on the brake shoe pin, as well as the wheel cylinder casting, they should be replaced.

5. BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM

Clean all dirt off and around the master cylinder reservoir filler plug.

BRAKE SHOE PUSH ROD

PISTON r - PISTON CUP EXPANDER

BLEEDER SCREW

RETURN SPRING

WHEEL CYLINDER

— PISTON C U P —

-CYLINDER B O O T f

49x645

Fig. 8—Rear Wheel Cylinder (Disassembled View)

58—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL in

BLEED REAR WHEEL CYLINDER BLEED LOWER FRONT WHEEL CYLINDER BLEED UPPER FRONT WHEEL CYLINDER

Fig. 9—Procedure for Bleeding Wheel Cylinders (Typical View)

Compressed air refiller, Tool C-3496, filled with

MOPAR Super Brake Fluid, provides a convenient way for keeping the master cylinder filled while bleeding the brake system.

(1) Back the brake adjusting cams all the way off. This allows the pistons in the wheel cylinders to move back and permits greater movement of the piston to expel the air faster.

(2) Starting with the right rear wheel cylinder, wipe the dirt off bleeder valve and attach bleeder hose, Tool C-650 to valve. Place other end of hose in a jar half full of brake fluid. This is to prevent air from being drawn in the system when the brake pedal is released.

(3) Pump fluid by pushing brake pedal down and let it return SLOWLY to avoid air being drawn into the system. Bleed intermittently, opening and closing valve about every four seconds. This causes a whirling action in the cylinder which helps expel the air. Continue this process until fluid runs out of bleeder hose in a solid stream without air bubbles.

(4) Continue bleeding by repeating this operation on the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel.

(5) At the front wheels, bleed the lower cylinder first so as to force all the air out of the connecting line. (Refer to Fig. 9.)

Repeat bleeding operation if there is an indication of air remaining in the system.

CAUTION

Be sure to adjust cams after the completion of the bleeding operation.

6. COMPRESSED AIR BLEEDER TANK

(See Fig. 10)

When bleeding the brake system with the compressed type bleeder tank, Tool C-3496, first fill the tank half full with brake fluid and then bring the pressure up to 15 pounds. If more pressure is used, the brake fluid will absorb air. Always maintain a safe fluid level in the bleeder tank and do not allow the air pressure to drop to zero

55X752

Fig. 10—Compressed Air Refiller Tank, Tool C-3496

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL during bleeding operation. When the brake bleeder tank is not in use, it is advisable to relieve the air pressure to help prevent condensation of moisture from the air.

7. TESTING FOR FLUID CONTAMINATION

In order to determine if contamination exists in the brake fluid (indicated by swollen, deteriorated rubber cups) the following simple test can be made:

(1) Place a small amount of drained brake fluid in a small, clear glass bottle. Separation of

BRAKES—59 the fluid into two distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content.

(2) Add water to contents and shake. If the contents become milky, oil is present. If the contents remain clear, it is not contaminated with mineral oil.

CAUTION

Discard old brake fluid that has been bled from the system. Fluid drained from the bleeding operation may contain dirt particles or other contamination.

ADJUSTMENTS

8. MINOR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Pedal travel can be adjusted to compensate for lining wear by adjusting the cams.

(1) Check the "free play." It should be approximately Vs to % inch. ("Free Play" is the movement of the pedal before the push rod touches the master cylinder piston. This movement can readily be felt when depressing the brake pedal by hand.) If necessary, this adjustment can be made by changing the length of the master cylinder push rod.

(2) Lift the car with jack or hoist so that the wheel can be rotated freely.

(3) Rotate the wheel backward and forward and at the same time turn one of the adjusting cams, as shown in Figure 11, until a slight drag can be felt. Repeat this operation for the other shoe.

(4) Perform this adustment procedure at the other wheels.

9. MAJOR BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Major brake adjustments may be necessary after relining brake shoes, replacing or ref acing brake drums, or when correcting heavy heel contact.

A major brake adjustment is performed by moving both the toe and the heel of the brake shoe in order to centralize the brake shoe in relation to the diameter of the brake drum.

NOTE

For satisfactory brake operation, always reline both brake shoes for BOTH front wheels with linings of same material. This also applies to rear wheels.

a. Inspection and Reconditioning

(1) Remove wheel hub and drum assembly.

(2) Remove brake shoe return springs and test spring tension. Discard springs that do not meet specifications.

(3) Inspect lining for abnormal wear and glazed

TURN IN DIRECT-

I O N OF ARROW

TO DECREASE

C L E A R A N C E -

OPPOSITE

DIRECTION

INCREASE

CLEARANCE

BRAKE SHOE

ADJUSTING C A M

PINS

46x55

Fig. 11—Turning Brake Adjusting Cam (Typical View)

60—BRAKES

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CAM PIN

49x652 •

Fig. 12—Brake lining Edge Wear braking surfaces. Inspect for uniform brake lining wear on opposite wheel.

(4) Remove all traces of roughness or high spots. If spindle type grinder is used, do not grind the lining thinner on one side of the shoe than on the other.

(5) Clean drums, and inspect for concentricity, scoring and deep cuts. If necessary to ref ace the brake drums, do not remove more than

.030 inch of stock (which will increase original diameter of drum .060 inch). Replace drums if damaged surface requires removal of more than .030 inch of material.

b. Aligning Brake Shoes

Improperly aligned brake shoes are not apt to

CAM PIN

Fig. 13—Cam Pin Too High

49x653

49x654

Fig. 14—Cam Pin Too Low cause squeaking. This condition is very often caused by the cam pins being either too high or too low with respect to the front wheel cylinder anchor lugs or the rear wheel brake support anchor surface. If this condition exists, the shoes will not meet the drums squarely (one edge of the lining will be worn excessively, as shown in

Fig. 12). Uneven wear is not always apparent, so measure lining thickness to be sure.

With the cam pin too high, the inside edge of the lining will strike the drum first, as shown in

Figure 13, and the cam pin will prevent the shoe from straightening up. The lining will be worn unevenly and vibrations and brake noise will result.

With the cam pin too low, the guide spring twists the shoe and the outside edge of the lining strikes the drum first, as shown in Figure 14.

This results in localized braking pressure. As pressure, exerted by the wheel cylinder, forces the lining against the drum, the shoe straightens to its normal position. Thus, too much clearance between the cam pin and the web of the shoe does not do as much harm as too little clearance.

c. Straightening the Shoes

If the shoe is bent or distorted, filing the cam pin will not correct this condition. The shoe will have to be straightened or replaced. To check for a twist in the shoe, support the anchor bolt end of the web on a surface plate. Holding it flat, test the shoe by swinging the toe end up to the plate, as shown in Figure 15.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

UNIFORM

CLEARANCE

Fig. 15—Checking Shoe for Twist

If the shoe is in alignment, the web at the toe end will slide across the plate without binding.

If the shoe is twisted, the web will either strike the plate or ride above it. After straightening shoe, reline or grind the lining flat to make sure it fits squarely with the drum.

CAUTION

A misaligned shoe can never be corrected by merely grinding the lining to make it square with the drum. The shoe itself must be aligned or replaced.

d. Adjusting Pins for Proper Alignment

The clearance between the web and brake shoe adjusting cam pin can be determined by removing brake shoes and by checking the height of the pin with gauge, Tool MT-19-L, as shown in

Figure 16.

WHEEL CYLINDER

ANCHOR LUG

ADAPTER BUSHING

BRAKE SHOE

ADJUSTING GAUGE

CAM PIN

WING TYPE SCREW

4 9 x 6 0 4 A

Fig. 16—Checking Height of Brake Shoe Adjusting

Pin, Using Tool MT-19-L

BRAKES—61

(1) To check height of cam pin on the front brake, adjust the gauge to the wheel cylinder mounting lug at the anchor bolt. Rotate the gauge to check the height of the pin, using this dimension.

(2) If the cam pin is higher than the face of the wheel cylinder mounting lug, the brake shoe guide spring should be raised and the cam pin should be filed down to the same height, using an ordinary mill file. If the pin is low, a spacer (available through

MOPAR Motor Parts Corporation) should be used.

(3) Checking height of cam pin on rear brake is accomplished in exactly the same manner as on front brake, except that the gauge is adjusted to the face of the rear wheel brake support at the anchor bolt and this dimension is checked with pin.

(4) Install brake shoes and return springs and set cam in released position.

e. Adjustment Procedure

CAUTION

Before attempting an adjustment, check the position of the arrows on the anchor bolts. Be sure that the anchor bolts are installed so that the arroivs point AWAY from the heels of the shoes they control. (See Figs. 17 and 18.)

(1) Insert gauge, Tool MT-19-L, in wheel hub and check inside diameter of brake drum, as shown in Figure 19. Set gauge pin to drum diameter.

(2) Transfer inside drum diameter from drum gauge by setting the brake shoe gauge arbor so that the finger marked "DRUM" just contacts the point of the brake drum gauge pin, as shown in Figure 20.

(3) Install the proper adapter bushing on the steering knuckle assembly (Fig. 17), or rear axle shaft (Fig. 18). Turn the finger of the brake shoe gauge arbor from DRUM to point marked HEEL and slide the brake shoe gauge over the adapter bushing. This gauge setting allows the correct .006 inch clearance between lining and drum.

62—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TURN ANCHOR BOLT IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW TO DECREASE

CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE DIRECTION

TO INCREASE CLEARANCE AT

HEEL OF REAR SHOE

TURN C A M IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW TO DECREASE

CLEARANCE— OPPOSITE

DIRECTION TO INCREASE

CLEARANCE AT TOE

OF REAR SHOE

TURN ANCHOR BOLT IN

DIRECTION OF ARROW

TO DECREASE CLEARANCE

—OPPOSITE DIRECTION

TO INCREASE CLEARANCE

AT HEEL OF FRONT SHOE

TOE OF FRONT SHOE

BRAKE G A U G E

TURN C A M IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW TO DECREASE

CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE

DIRECTION TO INCREASE

CLEARANCE AT TOE

OF FRONT SHOE

TOE OF REAR SHOE

HEEL OF FRONT SHOE

Fig. 17—Positioning Finger from "Drum" to "Heel" (Front Wheel)

TURN CAM IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW TO DECREASE

CLEARANCE-OPPOSITE

DIRECTION TO INCREASE

CLEARANCE AT TOE

OF REAR SHOE

TOE OF REAR SHOE

TOE OF FRONT SHOE

TURN C A M IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW TO DECREASE

CLEARANCE—OPPOSITE

DIRECTION TO INCREASE

CLEARANCE AT TOE

OF FRONT SHOE

46x53

BRAKE G A U G E

TURN ANCHOR BOLTS

IN DIRECTION OF

ARROWS TO DECREASE

CLEARANCE AT THE

BRAKE SHOE HEELS-

OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO

INCREASE CLEARANCE

HEEL OF REAR SHOE

HEEL OF FRONT SHOE

Fig. 18—Positioning Finger from "Drum" to "Heel" (Rear Wheel)

46x54

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—63

Fig. 19—Checking Brake Drum Diameter

CAUTION

Since .006 inch is the correct clearance for both toe and heel on all wheels, the finger of the brake shoe arbor should remain at the point marked

HEEL, when adjusting either toe or heel clearance. DO NOT turn finger of brake shoe arbor to point marked TOE.

(4) Swing brake gauge around until finger is over "toe" of brake shoe. Turn shoe adjusting cam until lining at toe of shoe just contacts gauge finger, as shown in Figure 21.

(5) Swing finger of brake gauge over "heel" of brake shoe and turn anchor bolts until lining at that point just contacts gauge finger, as shown in Figure 22.

Fig. 21—Checking Toe Adjustment

(6) As anchor bolts are being adjusted for correct "heel" clearance, the "toe" adjustment may change. Therefore, change "heel" adjustment gradually and, at the same time, keep "toe" in proper adjustment as anchor bolt adjustment progresses by adjusting the shoe adjusting cam.

i. Cam Adjustment

To adjust the cams (toe clearance), pull the handle of the wrench DOWN to decrease clearance and UP to increase clearance, as shown in

Figure 11.

Fig. 20—Setting Brake Shoe Gauge

46.x

Fig. 22—Checking Heel Adjustment

(Items 1 and 2 ore Anchor Bolts)

64—BRAKES

g. Anchor Adjustment

To INCREASE the heel clearance, turn the anchor bolt so the point of the arrow moves slightly AWAY from the drum. To DECREASE the heel clearance, turn the anchor bolt so the point of the arrow moves slightly TOWARD the drum. A very small movement of the anchor bolt is usually sufficient.

(1) Check to see if the lining is ground properly. This is done by swinging the gauge over the center or arc of the shoe assembly.

If gauge finger binds slightly against lining so that it cannot swing past center, or if it touches lining as it swings over center of shoe, the lining is properly ground.

A clearance between the gauge finger and

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL lining (when finger is passed over center of shoe assembly) indicates the shoe is improperly ground. Thus, the lining will have to be cam ground or ground under drum diameter so that the proper clearance of

.006 inch may be obtained at the heel and toe.

(2) After shoe adj ustment is completed, tighten anchor bolt nuts securely and install wheel and hub assembly.

CAUTION

After adjusting brakes on one wheel, do not use same gauge setting for another. The gauge must be reset according to the inside drum diameter of each drum separately.

LOCKWASHERS

SUPPORT

RELEASE SPRING

NUT

LOCKWASHER

NUT

LOCKWASHER

BOLT

ADJUSTING

BOLT BRACKET

DRUM

ADJUSTING BOLT

RIVET

BAND ASSY

ANCHOR SCREW

LOCKWIRE

LINING

LINK PIN

LEVER PIN

LEVER LINK

OPERATING LEVER

CLEVIS PIN

CLEVIS

RETURN SPRING

CABLE ASSY

OPERATING LEVER

COTTER PIN

LEVER LINK

COTTER PIN

Fig. 23—Hand Brake (Disassembled View—External Type)

49x643,

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—65

SERVICING THE HAND BRAKE

10. SERVICING THE EXTERNAL TYPE HAND

BRAKE (Refer to Fig. 23) a. Removal and Installation

(1) Remove adjusting bolt and nut. Remove guide bolt adjusting nut, lock nut and guide bolt (3 and 1, Fig. 24).

(2) Remove anchor adjusting screw. Pull band assembly away from transmission and off propeller shaft.

When installing band, be sure clearance between anchor and bracket does not exceed

.005 inch. Adjust band.

b. Relining Hand Brake Band (Band Removed)

When band is removed, proceed as follows:

(1) Cut off lining rivet heads.

(2) Cut the new lining 14 inch longer than the required length so that there will be a slight bulge at the center when it is first installed in the band.

(3) Drill and counterbore four rivet holes (two at each end of the lining) to coincide with the holes at the extreme ends of the band.

These counterbores should be at least onehalf the thickness of the lining.

(4) Rivet the two extreme ends of the lining to the respective extreme ends of the band.

Due to the 14 inch excess length, the lining will now bulge slightly at the center of. the band. Snap this lining in against the band to make an even tight fit.

(5) Install the remaining rivets, starting from each end and working alternately toward the center.

(6) End-chamfer the two open ends of the lining to reduce noise and grabbing effect.

NOTE

Excessive squeal or chatter may be eliminated by bending the end of band slightly away from drum.

11. ADJUSTING THE EXTERNAL TYPE

HAND BRAKE

(1) Set hand brake lever in fully released position.

Fig. 24—Hand Brake Band Adjustments

1—Guide bolt adjusting nut and lock nut

2—Anchor screw

3—Adjusting bolt nut

4—Hand brake cable lock nut

CAUTION

Before adjusting brake, be sure that free play

(between the anchor bracket on the center of the band and the sides of the hand brake support) does not exceed .005 inch. Otherwise, band distortion may result upon application of the brake. This free play, if excessive, may be reduced by compressing the anchor bracket in a vise or tapping it gently with a hammer against a block or anvil.

(2) Remove lock wire. Using feeler gauge, adjust anchor screw (2, Fig. 24) so that clearance between band and drum at anchor is

.015 to .020 inch. Lock anchor screw securely.

(3) Adjustment of the guide bolt (1, Fig. 24) should be such that both upper and lower

66—BRAKES half of band has a like amount of clearance.

The guide bolt moves the lower half of band up to keep the upper half of the band from dragging and causing premature wear. Adjusting bolt nut (3, Fig. 24) controls the upper half of the band.

(4) Turn adjusting bolt nut (3, Fig. 24), until there is just a slight drag on the drum, with upper and lower half having an equal amount of clearance.

CAUTION

The lockwire, which retains the anchor bolt, must not be drawn up tight. This restriction will cause uneven wear and a poor brake.

12. ADJUSTING EXTERNAL TYPE HAND

BRAKE CABLE

Sometimes, after long service, the cable will stretch to such an extent that pulling back on the hand brake lever will not apply band to drum. Loosen lock nut (4, Fig. 24), remove clevis pin from yoke and turn yoke until cable slack is taken up. Make certain that lock nut is tightened after assembly. (This is not a substitute for hand brake adjustment.)

13. SERVICING THE INTERNAL TYPE

HANDBRAKE

The hand brake shown in Figure 25 is the internal expanding type and is used only on cars equipped with PowerFlite Transmission.

12-OPERATING LEVER STRUT

18-SUPPORT

34-BRAKE SHOE PIN

31-SHOE RETURN

SPRING

25-SHOE GUIDE SPRING

•37-CABLE GUIDE CLAMP

21-TRANSMISSION

EXTENSION OIL SEAL

50x135

Fig. 25—Internal Expanding Hand Brake

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The brake is fully enclosed to keep out dirt and oil and requires very little servicing. Longer lining life is assured by protection against dirt and the use of Cyclebond lining. The adjustments, when needed, are very simple for both the steel control cable and the shoes.

a. Disassembly

To service the internal expanding hand brake, refer to Figure 26, and proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect the propeller shaft at the transmission.

(2) Engage holding Tool C-784 with the companion flange. Loosen and remove the companion flange nut (1), lock washer (2) and flatwasher (3).

(3) Install puller, Tool C-452, on the companion flange. Remove flange and brake drum (4).

(4) Disengage the ball end of cable (35) from the operating lever (27).

(5) Separate shoes (8) at the bottom, allowing the brake shoe adjusting nut (6), screw

(5) and sleeve (7) to drop out. Release the shoes.

(6) Pry the brake shoe return spring (31) up and over the right hand brake shoe pin

(34) and work the spring out of the assembly.

(7) Pry out the brake shoe retaining washer

(11) and remove outer guide (9).

(8) Slide each shoe out from under the guide spring (25). (As the shoes are removed, the operating lever strut (12) will drop out of place.)

(9) Separate the operating lever from the right hand brake shoe, by removing nut (30), lockwasher (29) and bolt (26).

The brake now has been disassembled, as far as necessary, for replacement of worn or damaged parts.

b. Assembly

(1) Assemble the operating lever to the right hand brake shoe.

(2) Slide the right and left hand brake shoes under the guide spring (25) and up on top of the inner anchor guide (10).

4-DRUM

10-ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE

12-OPERATING LEVER STRUT

9-ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE

8-SHOE AND FACING

31-SHOE RETURN SPRING

30-NUT

29-LOCKWASHER

11 -RETAINER WASHER

33-CABLE CLAMP BOLT

15-CABLE ADJUSTING NUT

14-CABLE ASSY.

13-ANCHOR PIN

35-BALL END

16-TRANSMISSION

EXTENSION

17-DOWEL PIN

7-SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE

6-SHOE ADJUSTING NUT

3-GROOVED WASHER 5-SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW

2-LOCKWASHER

28-SHOE AND FACING

1-NUT

27-OPERATING LEVER

Fig. 26—Hand Brake (Disassembled View—Internal Type)

19-NUT

20-LOCKWASHER

-22-SCREW

21-EXTENSION OIL SEAL

23-LOCKWASHER

32-TRANSMISSION MAIN SHAFT

24-ADJUSTING SCREW COVER PLATE

25-SHOE GUIDE SPRING

18-SUPPORT

26-OPERATING LEVER BOLT

5 0 x 1 3 4 r

68—BRAKES

(3) Spread the shoes and insert the operating lever strut (12) with the wide slot toward the operating lever.

(4) Work the return spring (31) under the guide spring (25) and engage the retaining pin on the left hand shoe. Force the other end of the return spring up and over the retaining pin on the right hand shoe.

Be sure the return spring is securely anchored on both retaining pins.

(5) Spread the bottom of both shoes apart and install the brake shoe adjusting nut, screw and sleeve.

NOTE

Be sure to install the adjusting nut, screw and sleeve in the proper position, as shown in Figure 25. If installed in the reverse position, adjustment ivill be difficult.

(6) Place the outer anchor guide (9) over the anchor, and secure shoes with retaining washer (11).

(7) Turn the brake adjusting nut until the shoes are in a released position and install the brake drum.

CAUTION

Be sure the brake shoes are centered on the backing plate and are free to move.

c. Adjustment of Brake Shoes

(1) Place the transmission shifting lever in neutral position and release the hand brake.

(2) Disconnect front end of propeller shaft to permit turning of the brake drum by hand

(if not previously disconnected).

(3) Remove adjusting screw cover plate (24).

(4) Turn the brake shoe adjusting nut to decrease shoe-to-drum clearance until a slight drag is felt on the drum. Back off adjusting nut at least one full notch (using spanner wrench, Tool C-3014) to give approximately .010 inch clearance.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

Be sure the two raised shoulders on the adjusting nut are seated in the grooves on the adjusting sleeve.

(5) Test the hand brake level for travel. When properly adjusted, there should be from 3 to 5 notches on the lever rod visible beyond the face plate.

CAUTION

Never substitute a cable adjustment for a brake shoe adjustment.

(6) Install the adj usting screw cover plate (24) and connect the propeller shaft.

14. SERVICING INTERNAL TYPE HAND

BRAKE CABLE a. Removal (At Transmission End)

If removal of the control cable is required for replacement or repair, refer to Figure 26 and proceed as follows:

(1) Loosen the guide clamping bolt (33) and remove adjusting screw cover plate (24).

(2) Pry the ball end of the cable, up and out of the operating lever slot with a screwdriver.

(3) Remove the control cable from the guide.

b. Installation

(1) Slide cable into the guide and insert in-

OPERATIN

LEVER

BRAKE SUPPORT

MOUNTING BOLTS

CONTROL CABLE

GUIDE CLAMP

CLAMP BOLT,

' NUT AND

LOCK

WASHER

SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW, NUT AND SLEEVE

BALL END OF CONTROL CABLE 5 0 x 1 3 7

Fig. 27—Rear View of Brake

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(2) staller Tool C-3015 between the spring retainer washer and the ball on the end of cable.

Hook the cable into the slot in the operating lever, with the lever between the ball and the washer, as shown in Figure 27.

c. Adjustment

After the installation has been completed, adjust the cable as described in the following paragraphs.

(1) The cable length adjusting nut should be positioned against the cable housing so that there is at least .005 but not more than .010

inch clearance between the operating lever and the brake shoe table, as shown in Figure 28.

(2) To lock the adjustment, tighten the cable housing clamp securely and tighten the cable adjusting nut against the housing.

BRAKES—69

CONTROL CABLE

SPRING

OPERATING LEVER

BALL END OF

CONTROL CABLE

BRAKE SHOE

FEELER STOCK

5 0 x 1 3 6

Fig. 28—Clearance Between Lever and Brake

Shoe Table

RELINING PROCEDURE

15. CYCLEBOND BRAKE LINING

Pre-cemented Cyclebond brake lining can be successfully bonded to either new or used shoes, providing certain steps are followed. If the following instructions are adhered to, all the advantages of Cyclebond brake lining will be made possible. Basically, there are some items which must be carefully governed in order to insure a successful bonding operation, namely: Condition of brake shoes, correct oven temperatures and correct clamping pressures.

and dirt. (If a cleaning tank is available, immerse shoes, using a suitable grease solvent.)

If a cleaning solution is used, flush shoes with warm water and dry with air pressure.

b. Inspection of Shoes

Carefully check shoes for distortion and straighten if necessary. Cracked or damaged shoes should not be used and must be replaced.

16. REMOVAL OF WORN LINING

Remove bonded type lining by placing brake shoe in a vise and inserting a chisel, or similar tool under the center of lining at either end of shoe. Chip or pry the lining off. (Never use a torch or heat to remove bonded lining as it may result in distortion of shoe.) c. Sanding Shoe Face

Using sanding attachment, Tool C-797, as shown in Figure 29, sand face of shoe until all traces of old lining, rust scale, oxidation and plating are removed, leaving a bright, clean bonding surface. This applies to all shoes—NEW or

USED.

17. PREPARING BRAKE SHOES FOR

RELINING a. Degreasing Shoes

Clean shoes to remove accumulation of grease

CAUTION

Check date stamped on the MOPAR Cyclebond

Brake Lining package before using. If expiration date has passed, lining should be reactivated by applying MOPAR Cyclebond Reactivating

Cement over originally cemented surfaces.

70—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

49x646

Fig. 29—Sanding Brake Shoe d. Clamping Operation

Care must be taken in handling pre-cemented linings and sanded shoes as grease or oil smears may destroy the bond. The following instructions cover use of clamp, Tool C-786. (See Fig.

30.) A follow-up spring built into the clamp insures the required pressure over the entire length of lining, while shoes are in the oven.

With lining in proper position, slip toe end of shoe into wedge end of clamp, as shown in Figure 31. Pull flexible metal band tightly around lining. Insert clamp pin into anchor hole in the shoe, as shown in Figure 32. Tighten the wing

49x647

Fig. 31—Installing Shoe and Lining in Clamp nut against follow-up pressure spring, as shown in Figure 33, until pressure spring is fully compressed, as shown in Figure 34. Do not tighten further.

e. Pre-Heating Oven

Using the Miller-Trent Insulated Oven C-794, as shown in Figure 35, follow these pre-heating steps:

(1) Ventilator cap on top of oven must be wide open.

(2) Set toggle switch (1) to the "ON" position.

(3) Set thermostat (2), to 550° F.

(4) Set timer (3) for 1 hour (60 on the dial).

The timer and thermostat light (4 and 5) will go "ON" while oven is heating.

CLAMPING

TOOL

LATER TYPE CLAMPING TOOL C-846

49 x 657

Fig. 30—Clamping Tool C-846

49x648

Fig. 32—Inserting Clamp Pin Anchor Hole

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

6—THERMOMETER

BRAKES—71

49x649

Fig. 33—Tightening Wing Nut Against

Pressure Spring

(5) When thermometer (6) in oven door reaches 400° F., turn the thermostat down until thermostat light just goes out.

(6) Let empty oven heat for five minutes. Gradually adjust the thermostat until thermometer stabilizes at 400° F. (This need only be done when starting with a cold oven.)

With oven operating empty, thermostat must be set to make dial thermometer in door read a stable 400° F. When oven is loaded and brake shoes are coming up to heat, the dial thermometer reading may vary. DO NOT CHANGE THE THER-

MOSTAT SETTING DURING CURING

PROCESS.

f. Cyclebonding Time

After oven temperature has reached 400° F. and

49x650

Fig. 34—Tightening Wing Nut to Compress

Pressure Spring

—LIGHT

2-THERMOSTAT 3-TIMER 49x651

Fig. 35—Miller-Trent Oven cold shoes and clamps are placed inside, the temperature will drop. The time required for oven to again reach 400° F. will depend upon the number of shoes included in the recommended cyclebonding time, which is based only on the use of clamping fixtures, Tool C-786 or C-846.

g. For Bonding Linings on 1 to 8 Shoes

After having pre-heated the oven, reset timer for "30" minutes (neither more nor less) immediately after the shoes are placed in oven.

h. For Bonding Linings on 9 to 12 Shoes

After having re-heated the oven, reset timer for "45" minutes (neither more nor less) immediately after the shoes are placed in oven.

NOTE

When other than Miller Clamping Fixtures are used, the required time to heat the additional bulk will change the bonding time. Ovens other than Miller-Trent may produce varying results.

In such cases, recommendations of vendors of such equipment must be carefully followed.

Using asbestos gloves, remove shoes and clamp assemblies from oven. Remove clamps from shoes immediately, allowing shoes to cool slowly. DO NOT PUT SHOES IN WATER OR

ATTEMPT TO USE AIR PRESSURE BE-

CAUSE OF POSSIBLE WARP AGE OF THE

METAL SHOE.

CAUTION

Always be sure switch (1) is in the "OFF" position when oven is not in use.

72—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SLEEVE (ANCHOR) PLAIN WASHER

LOCK WASHER

BOLT

CONNECTING TUBE

DAMPENER SPRING CLIP

BRAKE

DUST

SHIELD

RETURN SPRING

EXPANDING BALL

BUTTON

PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLIES

H O U S I N G - O U T E R

WHEEL BRAKE

CYLINDER

ASSEMBLIES

BEARING CONE

BEARING CUP

DAMPENER SPRING

SEAL

HOUSING —INNER

BEARING

BEARING CUP

HUB STUD

WHEEL HUB j . COTTER P I N > ^

LOCK W A S H E R ^ f

NUT

52x652

Fig. 36—Front Disc Brake (Disassembled View)

BRAKE

DUST

SHIELD

WHEEL BRAKE

CYLINDER

ASSEMBLIES

DAMPENER SPRING

LOCK WASHER

NUT

CONNECTING TUBE

DAMPENER SPRING CLIP

RETURN SPRING

EXPANDING BALL

, BUTTON

PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLIES

HOUSING —OUTER

HOUSING —INNER f O

DUSTER

LOCK WASHER-

Fig. 37—Rear Disc Brake (Disassembled View)

5 2 x 6 5 3

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—73

18. OPERATION a. Basic Principle (Refer to Fig. 38)

The self-energizing disc brake utilizes two pressure plates inside a brake housing. To obtain braking power, these plates are moved apart along the axis of the housing until they contact the inside flat surface of the rotating brake housing.

The basic principle can be illustrated by two discs mounted on a shaft. One disc is held rigidly so it cannot rotate, and the other disc is set spinning. If the two discs are brought into contact, friction between the discs will stop the rotation of the spinning disc.

In the disc brake, Figures 36 and 37, the pressure plates are flat annular rings with segments of lining bonded onto the outside surfaces. When the outer plate is rotated with respect to the inner plate by movement of the wheel brake cylinder push rod, steel balls between the plates are forced up on the ramps located on the inside surfaces of the pressure plates. Therefore, the pressure plates are forced apart and contact is provided between the linings and the brake housing.

Disc brakes have more reserve, less fade, and more lining area than the shoe-type brake, with less effort required on the brake pedal to obtain the same amount of braking. The driver of a car equipped with disc brakes can make a greater number of successive high speed stops without noticeable increase in required pedal pressure or reduction in braking effort.

DISC BRAKES

(Figs. 36 and 37)

Another advantage of disc brakes is the eliminating of the need for brake adjustment through the incorporation of a self-adjusting mechanism which automatically compensates for lining wear during the long life of the lining.

Fade is considerably less in the disc brake as compared with the shoe-type brake because of its greater lining area with superior heat transfer and cooling properties. Greater reserve is obtained with the disc brake because the critical distortion of the housing is across its width, parallel to its axis, rather than along its diameter. As the distance across the housing is only about one quarter of the diametral distance, the expansion of the housing away from the lining is negligible.

b. Self-Energization

Self-energization (Fig. 39) is the key to a sucessful automotive disc brake. It is obtained by utilizing the friction force that tends to rotate the pressure plates in the direction of brake housing rotation, when contact is established between the linings and the brake housing.

When the brakes are applied, the outer plate is rotated forward by the action of the brake cylinder push rods and the plates are separated.

During forward motion of the car, the inner plate is held rigid. When the linings contact the housing, only the outer plate is free to move.

The resulting additional forward movement of the outer plate, with respect to the inner plate, forces the balls higher on the ramps and provides greater pressure contact between the plates and the housing. Thus some of the energy,

STATIONARY DISC

SPINNING DISC

ROTATION OF SPINNING

DISC IS STOPPED-

4 9 x 8 2 1

Fig. 38—Relation of Spinning and Stationary Discs

74—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

^ W H E E L BRAKE HOUSING

LINING

PRESSURE ANGLE RAMP

BRAKE RELEASED

BRAKE ENERGIZED

4 9 x 8 2 3 A

Fig. 39—Self-Energization Illustrated due to forward motion of the car, is used to increase the braking effect.

When the car is in reverse, the outer plate becomes the fixed plate on the rear wheels. Selfenergization is provided by the movement of the inner plate when it contacts the housing. The front wheel brakes are not self-energizing when in reverse, as the inner plate is still the fixed plate.

Because of these factors, the desired braking effect is obtained with a lighter pedal pressure.

Also, the pedal pressure required does not noticeably increase even when making a number of high speed stops in rapid succession, or when descending a steep hill requiring constant use of the brakes.

When the brakes are applied, the outer plate is rotated with respect to the inner plate and a lug contacts the adjuster rod. If the brake linings are new, the linings contact the brake housing before the adjuster rod is pushed forward. However, if the linings have worn, a lug pushes the adjuster rod through the bracket guide flanges until the linings contact the brake housing, and the relative rotation of the outer plate stops.

When the brakes are released, the brake return springs cause the outer plate to tend to return to its former position. However, when the lug comes into contact with the adjuster rod, the locking action (provided by the automatic adjuster) prevents the adjuster rod from being pushed back, and the outer plate cannot return completely to its former position. Because the difference between the length of the rod and the distance between the finished surfaces of the lugs has been calculated to provide the desired clearance between the linings and the housing when the brakes are released, proper clearance is maintained (regardless of the wear on the linings). Consequently, no service adjustment of the brake, to compensate for lining wear is required during the useful life of the linings.

c. Wheel Brake Cylinders (Figs. 40 and 41)

The two front wheel brake cylinders are mounted on the steering knuckle in each brake assembly. The two rear brake cylinders are mounted on the rear axle flange. As in the shoe-type hydraulic brake system, hydraulic pressure forces the brake cylinder push rods out. Each push rod contacts a boss on the pressure plate. The push

BLEEDER SCREW

PISTON PUSH ROD

PUSH ROD RETAINER

PISTON

BOOT

CYLINDER (BODY)

CUP

52x654

Fig. 40—Front Wheel Brake Cylinder (Disassembled View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BLEEDER SCREW

BOOT

PISTON PUSH ROD

PUSH ROD RETAINER

PISTON

EXPANDER

BRAKES—75

BOOT

PUSH ROD RETAINER

PISTON PUSH ROD

EXPANDER

5 2 x 6 5 5

Fig. 41—Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder (Disassembled View) rod action provides the desired rotation of the outer plate with respect to the inner plate on the front and rear brakes.

Because of no direct connection between pressure plates and wheel cylinders the brake assemblies can be removed as a unit from the car without opening the housings or disrupting the hydraulic system.

Normal inspection or replacement of the front brake cylinder parts does not require the removal of cylinder from the steering knuckle.

On the rear brakes the double action individual cylinders force the push rods against the inner and outer plate.

The rear outer plates energize for forward braking and the rear inner plates energize for reserve braking.

Brake cylinders of 1% inch diameter are used on the front brakes and 1 inch diameter brake cylinders are used on the rear brakes. This provides the desirable ratio of braking effect between the front and rear wheels.

LUBRICATING WASHER ROD BUSHING SLEEVE ADJUSTER BALLS WASHER SPRING

Fig. 42—Automatic Adjuster (Disassembled View)

5 2 x 6 6 8

76—BRAKES d. Automatic Adjusters (Fig. 42)

There are two identical automatic adjusters mounted at 180 degrees to each other on the inside surface of each inner pressure plate. The adjusters are identical in operation for either front or rear brakes. Two lugs are provided on the inside surface of each outer pressure plate.

They are placed so that they straddle the automatic adjusters.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The wheel brake automatic adjusters are selfadjusting, to compensate for lining wear. The desired clearance is maintained, at all times, between the pressure plates and the brake housing, and full pedal effectiveness is provided.

Each self-adjusting unit is composed of a sleeve, bushing, rod, 11 adjuster balls, washer, spring and lubricating washer. The "bracket for each adjusting unit is an integral part of the individual pressure plate.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

19. DISASSEMBLY OF FRONT DISC BRAKE

With the tire and wheel assembly removed, it will be noted that the brake assembly is composed of two cast iron halves. The outer wheel brake .housing is bolted to the inner housing by

10 bolts, located around the circumference. The wheel is bolted to the outer housing. Both housings incorporate radial fins to provide greater area for better cooling. The brake assembly incorporates a damper spring attached by 10 clips.

Balance weights are attached by means of "easy" rivets and also are held rigidly by the housing attaching bolts. (See Fig. 43.)

It will also be noted that the hydraulic brake hose should not be removed when removing the brake housing, pressure plate and hub assembly.

The hydraulic hose is disconnected from the wheel cylinders only when the dust shield is to be removed from the steering knuckle.

To remove the front brake housing, pressure plate and hub assembly, refer to Figures 36 and

44 and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove hub cap, cotter key, spindle nut and washer. Slip complete brake assembly from the steering knuckle, as shown in Figure

44. Transfer to clean bench with the assembly resting on the outer hub section.

(2) With the assembly resting on the outer hub section, remove dampener spring and clips.

These can be easily removed, as shown in

Figure 45.

Fig. 43—Front Disc Brake

4 9 x 8 2 7 A

52 x 6 6 3

Fig. 44—Removing or Installing Hub and Brake

Housing Assembly (Front Disc Brake)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—77

4 9 x 8 2 8 A

Fig. 45—Removal and Installation of Dampener

Springs and Clips (Front Disc Brake)

(3) Remove the housing attaching bolts around the outside diameter of the brake housing, as shown in Figure 46. The inner and outer housings are matched sets and must remain as such. A cut-out is cast in each housing and should be mated. Check housings before separating and make sure they are marked before disassembly. (See Fig. 47.)

(4) Separate inner and outer housings by tapping lightly (at one of the attaching bolt hole flanges) with a fibre-nose hammer.

(Refer to Fig. 48.) Hemove the pressure plate assemblies, being careful not to lose the small round duster located in each housing, as shown in Figure 49.

(5) Place brake pressure plate assembly on a clean surface or cloth on the bench. This is necessary because the lining segments are located on the outer surface of both pressure plates and can be damaged by dirt, grease, brake fluid, or other foreign matter.

52 x 671

ALIGNING

MARKS

Fig. 47—Brake Housing Aligning Marks

(Front Disc Brake)

52x672

Fig. 48—Separating Inner and Outer Housings

(Front Disc Brake)

52 x 670

Fig. 46—Removing Housing Attaching Bolts

(Front Disc Brake)

52 x 661

Fig. 49—Removal and Installation of Pressure

Plate Assembly (Front Disc Brake)

78—BRAKES

20. INSPECTION OF BRAKE HOUSINGS

(1) Examine inner and outer halves of brake housing for cracks. If any cracks are present, the housing assembly should be replaced.

(2) If the braking surfaces of the housing contain light radial markings or bluish heat spots, these may be polished out with fine emery cloth.

CAUTION

Do not mate a 40-fin housing with a 60-fin housing on the opposite side of car.

21. ASSEMBLY OF FRONT DISC BRAKE

To assemble front disc brakes refer to Figures

36 and 44 and proceed as follows:

CAUTION

Do not install left pressure plates or wheel cylinders on the right side or vice versa.

(1) Release both automatic adjusters, as shown in Figure 50, for easy assembly of pressure plate.

NOTE

Refer to Paragraph 28 for servicing of automatic adjusters.

(2) Install brake pressure plate assembly in

52 x 662

Fig. 50—Releasing Automatic Adjuster (Front or

Rear Pressure Plate)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the outer housing half, as shown in Figure 49.

(3) Place duster in "down" position at bottom of the pressure plate, as shown in Figure 49.

(4) Install inner housing and line up aligning marks (cut outs) in each housing as indicated in Figure 47, and tighten the 10 attaching bolts.

NOTE

Inner and older housings are balanced as an assembly and should be assembled accordingly.

(5) Install damper spring and clips. (See Fig.

45.)

(6) Apply pressure on the push rods of the front cylinders to retract the pistons for easy installation of pressure plate.

NOTE

It may be necessary to open the bleeder screwsto allow the pistons to retract. It is recommended that the bleeder screws be tightened with the pistons retracted. This will hold the pistons in the desired position until pressure plates are installed.

(7) Making sure that marking on the pressure plates are in the down position and the duster is in position, position the housing pressure plate and hub assembly, as shown in

Figure 44. Slip the complete assembly over the steering knuckle and wheel cylinders.

NOTE

Care should be taken to line up pressure plates perfectly with wheel cylinders to avoid damaging or dislocating wheel cylinder boots.

(8) Install the outer bearing, spacer washer, nut, and adjust front wheel bearings. Install cotter key, hub cap, and wheel assembly.

NOTE

Whenever the front disc brakes are removed for service, the front wheel bearings should be checked for grease before reassembly. It is not necessary to take the brake housing apart to grease the front wheel bearings.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(9) To grease front wheel bearings, replace bearings on grease seal, remove hub cap, cotter pin bearing adjusting nut, washer and outer bearing.

(10) Remove brake housing assembly, grease seal and inner bearing. Clean bearings, grease seal and hub assembly with a suitable cleaning solution.

(11) Repack brake housing hub assembly with

Short Fiber Wheel Bearing Grease (Medium). Replace hub assembly and adjust front wheel bearings.

22. DISASSEMBLY OF REAR DISC BRAKE

With tire and wheel assembly removed, it will be noted that the rear disc brake assembly is almost identical to the front brake. (Refer to

Figs. 37 and 51.)

To remove the rear disc brake refer to Figure

37, and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove cotter pin, axle nut and washer.

(2) Install wheel puller, Tool C-844 and remove the brake housing, pressure plate and hub assembly. (Refer to Fig. 52.)

(3) Remove axle shaft key.

(4) Remove dampener spring and clips. These can be easily removed, as shown in Figure 45.

(5) Remove the housing attaching bolts around the outside diameter of the brake housing,

Fig. 51—Rear Disc Brake

49x840

BRAKES—79

49x841A

Fig. 52—Removing Hub and Outer Brake Housing

Assembly (Rear Disc Brake) as shown in Figure 46. The inner and outer housings are matched sets and must remain as such. A cut-out is cast in each housing, as shown in Figure 47, and should be mated in assembly. Check housings before separating and make sure they are marked before disassembly.

(6) Separate inner and outer housings by tapping lightly (at one of the attaching bolt hole flanges) with a fibre-nose hammer, as shown in Figure 48. Remove the outer brake housing pressure plate and hub assembly, being careful not to lose the small round duster.

(7) Place brake pressure plate assembly on a clean surface or cloth on the bench. This is necessary because the lining segments are located on the outer surface of both pressure plates and can be damaged by dirt, grease, brake fluid, and other foreign matter.

23. INSPECTION OF BRAKE HOUSINGS

(1) Examine inner and outer halves of brake housing for cracks. If any cracks are present, the housing assembly should be replaced.

(2) If the braking surfaces of the housings contain light radial markings or bluish heat spots, these may be polished out with fine emery cloth.

CAUTION

Do not mate a UO-fxn housing with a 60-fin housing on the opposite side of car.

80—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

52 x 6 6 4

Fig. 53—Removing or Installing Rear Disc Brake

Hub and Housing

NOTE

Whenever the disc brake hub and housing assemblies are removed from the rear axle housing, the oil seals should be inspected for any wear or rupture that may cause an oil seal leak. To replace the oil seals refer to the Rear Axle Section of this manual.

24. ASSEMBLY OF REAR DISC BRAKE

To assemble the rear disc brake refer to Figures

37 and 53 and proceed as follows:

(1) Release both self-adjusters on pressure plate as shown in Figure 50.

NOTE

For servicing of the automatic adjusters, refer to Paragraph 28.

(2) Install pressure plate assembly in outer housing half, as shown in Figure 54.

(3) Place duster in the "down" position at bottom of pressure plate, as shown in Figure 49.

(4) Mount inner housing to outer housing and line up aligning marks in each housing, as indicated in Figure 47.

(5) Install and tighten attaching bolts.

NOTE

Inner and outer housings are matched and balanced in production and should be assembled accordingly.

(6) Install dampener springs and clips. (See

Fig. 45.)

(7) Apply pressure on push rods of the rear brake cylinders to retract the pistons for easy access of pressure plate.

NOTE

It may be necessary to open the bleeder screivs on the wheel cylinders to allow the pistons to retract sufficiently for easy installation of pressure plate. Bleeder screws should be tightened with the pistons retracted to hold them in the desired position until pressure plates are installed.

Before installing housing and pressure plate assembly to axle shaft, place the marking on the plate in the "down" position.

(8) Mount housing and pressure plate assembly to axle shaft making sure that the plates are piloted properly over the wheel cylinders. Position key-way, install key, washer and nut.

(9) Tighten axle shaft nut to 140 (minimum) foot-pounds torque, and install cotter key, tire and wheel assembly.

25. DISASSEMBLY OF INNER AND OUTER

PRESSURE PLATES

(1) Release automatic adjusters. By inserting a thin shank screwdriver between the release sleeve in the automatic adjuster and i

52 x 6 6 5

Fig. 54—Removing or Installing Pressure Plate

Assembly (Rear Disc Brake)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—81

52 x 6 6 7

Fig. 55—Removal or Installation of Pressure Plate

Retaining Springs (Front or Rear Disc Brake) the adjuster guide of each adjuster, and then twisting screwdriver, the pressure plates will snap back into fully released positions. (See Fig. 50.)

(2) Remove the four pressure plate retaining springs as shown in Figure 55. These coil springs, like the return spring in the shoetype brake, pull the pressure plates together when hydraulic pressure is released and prevent the plates from maintaining friction contact with the brake housing. A "V" slot cut into one side of a screwdriver will facilitate spring removal.

(3) Note that on each case aluminum pressure plate, six ball ramps are machined into the inside surface. (See Fig. 56.) Located in two groups of three on a circle, whose center is the axis of the housing, each ramp has a

321/2 degree pressure angle. The pressure angle determines the amount of self-energization of the brake. The front brakes are not self-energizing in reverse.

26. SERVICING PRESSURE PLATE

EXPANDING BALLS

Plate expanding balls should be clean and free of flat spots, rust or nicks.

52 x 666

Fig. 56—Pressure Plate Expanding Balls in Ramps

(Front or Rear Disc Brake)

NOTE

A dull coating on expanding balls is not reason for rejection. This is a protective coating and does not affect the operation of the balls. Rusted expanding balls may be cleaned by placing them in a cloth bag partially filled ivith sand and shaking the bag vigorously.

27. ASSEMBLY OF INNER AND OUTER

PRESSURE PLATES

Refer to Paragraph 28 for assembly of Automatic Adjusters.

(1) With the automatic adjuster properly installed on each of the pressure plates, place the six steel pressure expanding balls (% inch diam.) in the six ramps, as shown in

Figure 56.

(2) Place the outer plate into position on inner plate. Automatic adjuster rods must also be centered so that operating lugs on the matching plate will straddle the rods.

(3) Install the four pressure plate retaining springs. (See Fig. 50.)

(4) Continue assembly as outlined in Paragraphs 21 or 24.

82—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICING THE AUTOMATIC

ADJUSTERS

28. DISASSEMBLY OF AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

(Refer to Fig. 42)

For instructions covering disassembly and assembly of the disc brake, refer to Paragraphs

19 or 22.

a. Removal of Rod and Sleeve

The rod in the automatic adjuster will only move in one direction and can be pushed or pulled out by hand. The adjuster sleeve can be removed by sliding the sleeve out from between the pressure plate lugs.

c. Inspecting Rods for Scoring or Brinelling

Insert a small screwdriver between adjuster bushing and bracket to release adjuster balls, as shown in Figure 50. Move the rod to one end.

Wipe off pin surface and inspect. Move pin to opposite extreme to inspect other end of pin. Pin should be free of scoring or brinelling.

NOTE

Do not lubricate the automatic adjuster.

b. Adjuster Rod Identification

Correct adjuster rods may be identified by any of the following:

(1) A radial groove machined near one end of rod.

(2) Rod has purple dye on surface.

(3) Length of rod is 2.445 to 2.446 inches.

NOTE

Rods that do not come within these specified qualifications should not be used.

29. ASSEMBLY OF AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

(Refer to Fig. 42)

(1) To assemble the automatic adjuster, it will be necessary to make a dummy shaft out of round stock % inch in diameter by % inch long, chamfered on one end.

(2) Place adjuster sleeve (slotted end down) upright on finger and insert dummy shaft

(chamfered end up) in sleeve, as shown in

Figure 57.

(3) Position bushing over dummy shaft, as shown in Figure 58.

(4) Dummy shaft and bushing can be held in proper position by the large end of a common paper clip, as shown in Figure 59.

49x858

Fig. 57—Inserting Dummy Shaft in Adjuster Sleeve

49x859

Fig. 58—Positioning Adjuster Bushing Over

Dummy Shaft

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—83

49x860

Fig. 59—Securing Dummy Shaft and Bushing in Position

(5) Install the 11 adjuster balls, as shown in

Figure 60. Tap lightly to position balls.

(6) Install adjuster washer, as shown in Figure

61.

(7) Position adjuster spring in sleeve, as shown in Figure 62.

(8) Holding thumb over spring, carefully remove paper clip, as shown in Figure 63.

(9) Continue to hold pressure on spring and compress sufficiently to slide sleeve into position on the bracket, as shown in Figure 64.

NOTE

The sleeve is grooved and the pressure plate is

49x862

Fig. 61—Installing Adjuster Washer in Sleeve

49x863

Fig. 62—Positioning Adjuster Spring in Sleeve

49x861

Fig. 60—Installing Adjuster Balls in Sleeve

49x864

Fig. 63—Removing Paper Clip From Sleeve

84—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

52 x 675

Fig. 66—Forcing Dummy Shaft Out of

Adjuster Sleeve

52 x 673

Fig. 64—Positioning Sleeve on Pressure Plate stepped, so that installation can only be made the right way.

(10) Align sleeve assembly so that dummy shaft is in line with the holes in the pressure plate. Insert the adjuster rod into the pressure plate hole (Fig. 65) and force dummy shaft out. (Fig. 66.)

Center adjuster rod as accurately as possible, as shown in Figure 67.

(11) Install lubricating washer on adjuster rod at stepped end of adjuster bracket. (Refer to Fig. 68.)

30. SERVICING WHEEL CYLINDERS

(1) Examine the bore of each cylinder. There must be no score marks or pits in the cylinders.

52 x 676

Fig. 67—Centering Adjuster Rod

52 x 674

Fig. 65—Inserting Adjuster Rod Into Pressure Plate

52 x 677

Fig. 68—Installing Lubricating Washer on

Adjuster Rod

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(2) Examine the pistons. They must be free of pits or scores.

(3) Use new wheel cylinder piston cups.

CAUTION

Only front wheel cylinder piston cups (Part No.

77526) bearing the letters "AA" or "DT" should be used. Do not use cups bearing letters "BQ."

(4) Assemble the wheel cylinders, using new dust boots and piston cups.

31. ASSEMBLING THE BRAKES

(1) Assemble the inner and outer pressure

BRAKES—85 plates. Make sure all expanding balls, automatic adjusters and cylinder push rods are properly installed.

(2) Install the coil return springs on each assembly. Do not use pliers or side cutters to install springs. Lift them into position with the proper tool or with a screwdriver having a notched blade.

NOTE

Return springs with four coils only should be used.

(3) Continue to assemble brakes as outlined in

Paragraphs 21 or 24.

PUSH ROD*

BODY (VALVE SIDE)

CLAMP RING

RESERVOIR FILLER PLUG

V A C U U M CHECK VALVE

V A C U U M I N L E T —

BLEEDER SCREW

BODY (CYLINDER SIDE)

MASTER CYLINDER

RESERVOIR

STOP LIGHT SWITCH

Fig. 69—Power Brake Unit

OUTLET TO

WHEEL CYLINDERS

54x547

86—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

POWER BRAKES

32. DESCRIPTION (Refer to Fig. 69)

The power brake unit is an integral, self-contained unit which incorporates the air-vacuum housing, hydraulic cylinder, fluid reservoir, air cleaner and vacuum check valve. No additional accessories, such as a vacuum reserve tank or a remote fluid reservoir, are required.

The power brake unit is mounted on the firewall (engine side) which eliminates a great deal of the dirt and mud which accumulated on the unit in previous locations.

The vacuum source tube is connected to the engine intake manifold by a short length of hose, and tubing connects the fluid cylinder to the wheel cylinders.

The unit is connected to the brake pedal through a push rod and a pendulum type linkage which provides the proper amount of mechanical advantage for the driver.

When the brake pedal is depressed the push rod moves into the unit and in doing so actuates valves which create a pressure differential causing movement of the diaphragm and power piston assembly. This results in fluid being forced to the wheel cylinders.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

33. REMOVAL OF POWER BRAKE UNIT

Procedures for removing the Power Brake Unit is the same as that for the conventional master cylinder except the line to the vacuum source tube must be removed. Refer to Paragraph 2 of this Section.

Immediately after removing unit from vehicle, and before starting any disassembly, stroke the unit for at least two full applications to dissipate the vacuum in the unit and pump out

(through the wheel cylinder connection) as much hydraulic fluid as possible. Remove reservoir filler cap assembly and gasket and pour out all brake fluid which is in reservoir. Discard fluid.

NOTE

The stop light sivitch, which is in the boss on the bottom of the hydraulic cylinder, should not be removed except for replacement or to correct an existing fluid leak.

34. DISASSEMBLY OF MAJOR COMPONENTS

(Refer to Fig. 70)

(1) Remove push rod from unit. Do this by sliding push rod boot down on rod. Clamp end of push rod in vise. Grip power unit firmly and pull away from push rod with a quick jerk, as shown in Figure 71.

CAUTION

Push rod is held in place in cavity of air valve seat assembly by push rod retainer clip. Whenever the push rod is removed from the unit, a

NEW push rod retainer clip must be used at assembly.

(2) Open boot retainer strap and remove push rod boot and air cleaner cover boot. Discard retainer strap.

NOTE

Unit may be clamped in vise ivith hydraulic cylinder end down. Vise should be clamped on

CAP

PISTON A N D SLEEVE

COVER

BOOT A N D INSERT

CUP

STRAP

ELEMENT

BOOT r .

LOCKWASHER

SPACER

SCREW

GASKET

GUIDE A N D SLEEVE

RETAINER

BUMPER

GUIDE \

SEAL

RETAINER

WICK

BODY

SPRING

SEAT

SEAL

VALVE \

DIAPHRAGM

RETAlNERv

SPRING

RETAINER

SEAL

PLUG

LOCKWASHER

NUT

BODY

SPRING

Fig. 70—Power Brake (Disassembled View) (Late Design)

CAP

WASHER

BEARING

RETAINER

CAP

55x80 A

88—BRAKES

!-—POWER UNIT

BOOT

BOOT RETAINER STRAP

54x548

Fig. 71—Removing Push Rod from Unit hydraulic cylinder only tight enough to hold securely: clamping too tight will crack or distort cylinder.

(3) Remove reinforcement plate and air cleaner cover assembly. With cover assemblyremoved, lift out four spacers and air cleaner core, as shown in Figure 72.

(4) Remove valve side body from cylinder side body by removing two clamp rings. These are held in position by two clamp ring screws, hex nuts and lockwashers.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

If a small amount of brake fluid is present in the body this is not an indication of a leak but is fluid accumulated as a result of manufacturing tests.

To facilitate correct assembly, loosen both clamp ring screws but remove only one. Keep the two clamp ring parts held together in their proper relationship.

CAUTION

The poiver piston and guide assembly is springloaded by the return spring.

(5) Remove body assembly (valve side) from body assembly (cylinder side) by lifting straight up, as shown in Figure 73. This is to prevent damaging the power piston sleeve and bearing.

NOTE

If edge of diaphragm did not free itself from flange of body assembly (cylinder side) when body assembly (valve side) was removed, hold power piston and guide assembly down against return spring while loosening edge of diaphragm. Allow return spring to lift power piston and guide assembly.

(6) Remove return spring.

(7) Remove body and cylinder assembly from vise, invert, and place body assembly (cyl-

AIR CLEANER

COVER

AIR CLEANER

CORE

BODY TO

COVER SPACER

INSPECTION/

SCREW

AIR CLEANER COVER

ATTACHING NUTS

AND LOCKWASHERS

BODY (VALVE SIDE)-—

RETURN SPRING

BODY (CYLINDER SIDE)-

CLAMP RING

Fig. 72—Removing or Installing Air Cleaner Cover

54x550^

Fig. 73—Removing Power Piston and Guide

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

MASTER CYLINDER--—

BRAKES—89

CHECK VALVE BODY

CYLINDER TO BODY

" O " RING SEAL

VACUUM

CHECK VALVE

1 MASTER

^CYLINDER TO

BODY ATTACHING

NUTS AND

LOCKWASHERS

BODY

(CYLINDER SIDE)

54x551

Fig. 74—Removing or Installing Hydraulic Cylinder inder side) flange down, on bench. Remove flange of hydraulic cylinder assembly. Lift hydraulic cylinder assembly off body assembly (cylinder side), as shown in Figure

74. Remove and discard cylinder-to-body

"O" ring seal.

35. DISASSEMBLY OF BODY ASSEMBLY a. Cylinder Side

(1) With body assembly (cylinder side) on bench (flange down) remove vacuum check valve assembly. Remove and discard check valve to body " 0 " ring.

(2) Position check valve assembly in vise

(clamp on large hex on body) and remove check valve body cap.

(3) Lift out check valve spring and floating valve assembly. Discard floating valve assembly but do not discard spring. (Refer to Fig. 75.)

NOTE

On later design poiver units the vacuum check valve floating valve (metal) has been replaced by the rubber plug type valve, as shown in Figure 75.

b. Valve Side

(1) From hub of body assembly (valve side) remove and discard guide seal and seal lubricating wick, as shown in Figure 76.

This can be done with small pointed pliers.

54x552

Fig. 75—Check Valve (Disassembled View)

Use care not to damage guide bearing or wick retainer.

CAUTION

Do not remove guide bearing.

(2) Examine inspection screw and gasket. Remove only if damaged or not sealing properly.

36. DISASSEMBLY OF POWER PISTON

AND GUIDE ASSEMBLE

(1) Place power piston and guide assembly in holding fixture with power piston end down and guide end up. Lift guide return bumper from guide sleeve, and discard. Be careful not to scratch power piston sleeve.

INSPECTION SCREW

BODY

(VALVE SIDE)

GUIDE SEAL

SPRING

-FLOATING VALVE

CAP

SEAL LUBRICATING WICK ^ - * ^ B ^

^ZI^P 54x553

Fig. 76—Removing Guide Seal and Lubricating Wick

90—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

" O " RING

DIAPHRAGM RETAINER-

GUIDE AND SLEEVE—-

POWER PISTON

DIAPHRAGM

POWER PISTON

AND SLEEVE

HOLDING

FIXTURE

RETAINER ATTACHING

SCREWS AND

LOCKWASHERS

54x554

Fig. 77—Removing Guide Assembly from

Power Piston Assembly

NOTE

Before discarding bumper, note its thickness. It is important that the new bumper, supplied in kit, (to be installed at assembly) be the same thickness as the one removed. Except on very early production models, the thicker bumper has a groove on each side to make it easily identified. The thinner bumper is smooth on both sides.

(2) Remove flange of power piston guide assembly. Lift off diaphragm retainer. Remove diaphragm.

GUIDE AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY

FLOATING CONTROL

VALVE SPRING

DIAPHRAGM

AND SPRING

RETAINER

VALVE BALANCING DIAPHRAGM

FLOATING CONTROL VALVE

54x555

Fig. 78—Guide and Sleeve Assembly

(Disassembled View)

PUSH ROD RETAINER CLIP

AIR VALVE SEAT '"*•-

54x556

Fig. 79—Removing Push Rod Retainer Clip

(3) Refer to Figure 77 and lift guide assembly off power piston assembly. Remove and discard "O" ring seal from between these two assemblies.

(4) From guide assembly remove and discard floating control valve assembly and valve balancing diaphragm, but do not discard spring, or spring retainer. (See Fig. 78.)

(5) With power piston assembly still in holding fixture, lift out air valve seat assembly and discard.

NOTE

If air valve seat assembly is to be re-used, use suitable tool to remove push rod retainer clip, as shown in Figure 79.

(6) Lift out control spring and reaction spring.

POWER PISTON AND SLEEVE

REACTION ROD AND

AIR VALVE SEAT BUFFER

METERING HOLE SEAL

" O " RING

REACTION ROD

AND STOP

CONTROL SPRING

REACTION SPRING

AIR VALVE SEAT

54x557

Fig. 80—Power Piston (Disassembled View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

POWER PISTON A N D SLEEVE

REACTION PISTON ASSY

BRASS DRIFT

BRAKES—91

MASTER CYLINDER

SECONDARY

CUP RETAINER

SECONDARY

CUP

54x558

Fig. 81—Removing Reaction Piston Assembly

(7) Lift out reaction rod assembly. From reaction rod, remove and discard metering hole seal and buffer. (Refer to Fig. 80.)

(8) Remove power piston assembly from holding fixture. Insert a drift pin into center of power piston, as shown in Figure 81, and push out reaction piston insert and dome cup assembly.

(9) Use extreme care to avoid marring reaction piston or dome cup insert. Remove and discard reaction cup. Reaction piston and cup insert can be popped out of cup by pinching dome between thumb and forefinger.

37. DISASSEMBLY OF HYDRAULIC

CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

(1) Place cylinder assembly in vise with flange end up. Do not clamp tightly. Using a suita-

CYLINDER PLUG

PRIMARY CUP SEAL

" O " R I N G — , _ ^

POWER PISTON

BEARING

SECONDARY CUP

SUPPORT WASHER

PRIMARY CUP RETAINER

54x560

Fig. 83—Secondary Cup Parts (Disassembled View) ble face spanner wrench, remove cylinder plug assembly; turn counter-clockwise.

(2) Disassemble cylinder plug assembly (by hand) by removing primary cup, retainer and primary cup seal from cylinder plug.

Primary cup is easily removed by gripping the inner cup lip between thumb and forefinger. Discard cup and seal; do not discard retainer. (Refer to Fig. 82.)

(3) From hydraulic cylinder, lift out primary cup retainer, power piston bearing, and secondary cup support washer. Remove secondary cup. Discard secondary cup only.

Lift out secondary cup retainer. Refer to

Figure 83.

(4) Clamp cylinder in vise across flat of cylinder flange. Use wrench to remove secondary

MASTER CYLINDER

RESIDUAL CHECK

VALVE SPRING

RESIDUAL

CHECK VALVE

PRIMARY CUP A N D

SEAL RETAINER

PRIMARY CUP

5 4 x 5 5 9

Fig. 82—Primary Cup Parts (Disassembled View)

GASKET

54x561 SECONDARY CONNECTION PLUG

Fig. 84—Residual Check Valve (Disassembled View)

92—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL connection plug, and residual check valve seat. Lift out residual check valve assembly, and residual check valve spring". Discard residual check valve assembly and seat.

(Refer to Fig. 84.)

NOTE

Residual check valve spring may make residual check valve and seat pop out as soon as secondary connection plug is removed.

(5) From secondary connection plug remove and discard gasket.

(6) Remove bleeder screw.

38. ASSEMBLY OF POWER BRAKE UNIT

CAUTION

Before any part of the Power Brake unit is assembled, all metal parts must be thoroughly cleaned (using diacetone alcohol or clean brake fluid) and tviped dry. Avoid allotving any grit or dirt to get into the unit during assembly.

When assembling unit, be sure to discard all parts specified and replace with clean NEW parts.

a. Assembly of Hydraulic Cylinder Assembly

Refer to Figures 70 and 84 and proceed as follows:

(1) Position hydraulic cylinder in vise with secondary connection boss facing up. Insert residual check valve spring and NEW residual check valve assembly.

(2) Place NEW residual check valve seat on residual check valve and center carefully.

(3) Assemble secondary connection plug and

NEW gasket to hydraulic cylinder. Tighten to 125 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Position hydraulic cylinder in vise with flange end up, and wet inside of cylinder with brake fluid. Insert secondary cup retainer (small end up) being sure that it rests evenly on shoulder in hydraulic cylinder bore. After wetting NEW secondary cup with brake fluid, insert into cylinder.

Cup lips must be down. Be sure that cup lip is not turned back at any point as cup slides into cylinder. Place secondary cup support washer in position on secondary cup.

(5) Insert power piston bearing into cylinder on top of secondary cup support washer.

Notched face of bearing must face up, and bearing must be centered in cylinder bore.

(6) Place primary cup retainer (notched edge down) in hydraulic cylinder, centering it oh notched surface of power piston bearing. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Be sure that retainer is centered as closely as possible by eye, so it will not be damaged when cylinder plug assembly is installed.

(7) Assemble cylinder plug assembly by inserting NEW seal, seal retainer (flat side out) and NEW primary cup, into plug.

Both the seal and cup must enter the plug with lips facing out.

NOTE

Use finger to force outside lip of both seal and primary cup down and outward against bore of plug to insure sealing contact.

(8) Install cylinder plug assembly in hydraulic cylinder. Recheck alignment of primary cup retainer with finger after tightening plug assembly by hand. Using a suitable face spanner wrench, tighten to 25 footpounds torque.

b. Assembly of Guide Assembly

Refer to Figure 78 and proceed as follows:

(1) Inspect inner end surface of guide casting where it seats assembly. This must be smooth and clean.

(2) Position guide assembly in holding fixture with sleeve end down. Assemble new valve balancing diaphragm on NEW floating control valve—after wetting the O.D. of the diaphragm with hydraulic brake fluid. Press spring retainer over diaphragm floating valve assembly using thumb pressure only.

Wet I.D. of diaphragm slightly with hydraulic brake fluid and place spring on retainer.

(3) Press complete assembly down on power piston guide stop. Install NEW power piston to guide " 0 " ring seal on power piston guide hub.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL c. Assembly of Power Piston and Guide

(1) Assemble stainless steel reaction piston into bronze dome cup insert, as shown in

Figure 85. Small diameter of bronze insert must be toward spherical end of reaction piston.

(2) Assemble NEW pre-greased dome reaction cup (pre-greased as supplied in kit) over spherical end of reaction piston and insert assembly. Force cup back firmly to assure snug fit of cup bead in groove of insert.

CAUTION

Do not use any grease on dome reaction cup other than what is already on it.

(3) Place power piston and sleeve assembly on bench, sleeve end up, and after lubricating

O.D. of dome reaction cup with brake fluid, press reaction piston end dome cup assembly into power piston sleeve (dome out).

Use care to avoid damaging cup. Press down into sleeve firmly until it bottoms.

Check to be sure that O.D. of reaction cup is not obstructing compensating ports, and that all of these port holes are open and clean.

(4) Assemble NEW buffer and NEW metering hole seal to reaction rod and stop assembly.

(5) Invert power piston and sleeve assembly and place in holding fixture, as shown in

Figure 86 (sleeve end down). Drop complete reaction rod assembly into center of power piston.

(6) Place reaction spring in center of reaction stop cavity, and control spring around outside of reaction stop, in power piston cavity.

54x562

DOME CUP INSERT

REACTION PISTON

REACTION CUP

Fig. 85—Reaction Piston Insert and Dome Cup

REACTION ROD---.*

POWER PISTON

AND SLEEVE

BRAKES—93

HOLDING

FIXTURE

54x563

Fig. 86—Installing Reaction Rod

(7) Install NEW air valve seat " 0 " ring seal

(pre-greased as received in kit) in groove on outside diameter of NEW air valve seat assembly. Use care to prevent silicone grease on seal.

(8) Install complete air valve seat assembly in center of power piston cavity, over control spring reaction spring and reaction rod stop. Use a twisting motion as seal enters bore of power piston. (Refer to Fig. 80.)

Use thumb pressure to test air valve seat against springs for freedom of movement.

CAUTION

Air valve seat is steel while power piston cavity is an aluminum casting. Use extreme care to avoid any damage, especially on aluminum vacuum valve seat.

(9) Position diaphragm retainer over guide and sleeve assembly, with three of the six holes in the retainer lined up with the three holes in the guide. (Refer to Fig. 77.)

(10) Position diaphragm on flange of power piston and sleeve assembly with flange of diaphragm down. Be sure that inside diameter of diaphragm is nested snugly all around in groove of power piston flange.

(11) With power piston diaphragm retainer and guide assembly held directly above power piston assembly, insert push rod

WITHOUT RETAINING CLIP through

94—BRAKES

PUSH ROD

GUIDE AND SLEEVE

POWER PISTON

AND SLEEVE

POWER PISTON

DIAPHRAGM

RETAINER

" O " RING

SEAL

HOLDING FIXTURE

54x564

Fig. 87—Installing Guide and Sleeve to

Power Piston center bore of guide and into push rod cavity in center of air valve seat assembly.

Holding air valve seat down against control and reaction springs, position guide assembly so that the three holes in the guide line up with the three tapped holes in the power piston, as shown in Figure

87. Be sure that the "0" ring seal is properly positioned between guide and power piston.

(12) Install the three lockwashers and hex bolts through holes in diaphragm retainer and into tapped holes in power piston.

Tighten all three bolts evenly to 100 inchpounds torque. Using push rod, check for freedom of movement of air valve seat against control and reaction springs.

(13) Place NEW rubber guide return bumper over guide sleeve.

NOTE

The replacement kit contains two guide return bumpers, each of a different thickness. It is important to install the bumper which is the same thickness as the one tvhich was taken out of the unit at disassembly.

d. Assembly of Body Assembly (Valve Side)

(1) With body assembly (valve side) resting on bench (hub end up) insert NEW guide seal into hub. Be sure that lips of seal are facing up, away from bearing, and that seal is installed between bearing and wick retainer which is inside hub.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

Seal will slip easily into place if held between thumb and forefinger, in an elliptical shape, and inserted through hub of body. This seal is supplied pre-greased in cellophane envelope in the replacement kit.

(2) Insert NEW wick into hub in same manner as seal was inserted, using care to preserve grease on wick. This wick is supplied pregreased in cellophane envelope in the replacement kit. After wick is installed, be sure that wick retainer is positioned snugly against wick and away from cup lips.

(3) Apply any grease remaining in seal and wick envelopes to inside of hub, to provide maximum lubrication for seal, wick and guide bearing.

(4) Check inspection screw and gasket to be sure they are tight.

e. Assembly of Body Assembly (Cylinder Side)

(1) Refer to Figure 75 and position vacuum check valve body in vise and insert NEW floating valve assembly. Be sure that bonded rubber seal is facing down, against seat. Assemble spring. Tighten with wrench.

NOTE

If rubber plug type valve is used, assemble, as shown in Figure 75.

(2) With body assembly (cylinder side) on bench, flange down, place NEW washer in position around hollow check valve bolt, then assemble vacuum check valve assembly to body.

39. FINAL ASSEMBLY OF COMPLETE

POWER BRAKE UNIT

(1) Place NEW cylinder-to-body seal in groove around cylinder plug assembly. Be careful to avoid twisting seal.

(2) With body assembly (cylinder side) on bench, flange down, assemble hydraulic cylinder assembly to body. (See Fig. 74.)

Position cylinder on body in such a way that, when viewing assembly from cylinder end, vacuum check valve is to the left of

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the hydraulic cylinder. Assemble hex nuts and lockwashers to studs, finger tight only.

(3) Position cylinder assembly, with body assembly (cylinder side) in vise with cylinder end down and body assembly flange facing up. Place return spring in body assembly, centering it around cylinder plug assembly and inside the four cylinder flange bolt heads in housing.

(4) Assemble power piston and guide assembly to body assembly, (valve side) by inserting guide sleeve through hub of body assembly. Be careful to avoid damaging felt wick in hub.

(5) Hold assembled power piston and guide assembly and body assembly (valve side) by guide sleeve, which now protrudes out of hub of body. Wipe power piston sleeve with brake fluid and carefully position power piston on return spring so that spring nests around shoulder of power piston.

(6) Press power piston and guide assembly down into unit against return spring, being careful to avoid misalignment as power piston sleeve enters bore of cylinder plug assembly.

(7) Holding power piston and guide assembly down against return spring, place edge of diaphragm in groove of flange of body assembly (cylinder side).

(8) Still holding power piston and guide assembly down, position flange of body assembly

(valve side) over edge of diaphragm and flange of body assembly (cylinder side) and press firmly into position.

CAUTION

The two sides of the body assembly must be so assembled that the notches on one side mate with the keys on the other, and the cutaway portions of the flanges match.

(9) With two sides of the body assembly properly mated, place two half ring clamps over body flanges. Be sure that the flat portions of the rings match the cutaway portions of the body flanges. Fasten half ring clamps with two clamp ring screws, lockwashers and hex nuts. Tap ring clamps snugly into place with a rubber mallet and tighten se-

BRAKES—95 curely. "Do hot Lubricate" tab should be attached on either side of unit, under one of these two nuts.

(10) Press power piston and guide assembly down as far as possible against return spring three or four times to be sure that power piston sleeve and hydraulic cylinder are properly centered.

(11) Remove unit from vise, invert and while holding unit down, push power piston and guide assembly into fully applied position.

Tighten the four cylinder flange nuts to

200 inch-pounds torque. After all flange nuts are tight the power piston and guide assembly must return freely to off position as soon as pressure is released. If power piston does not return freely, loosen cylinder flange nuts and realign cylinder to housing. Tighten nuts and test again for free return.

(12) Return unit to vise and clean or replace air cleaner core. Center it around hub of body assembly. Place one spacer around each of four mounting bolts. (Refer to

Fig. 72.)

(13) Assemble air cleaner cover assembly to unit over air cleaner core and spacers.

Position cover so that air inlets will face down when unit is mounted in position on vehicle.

(14) Assemble reinforcement plate to unit over air cleaner cover assembly, positioning plate so that its longest dimension will be below unit when mounted in position on vehicle. Install lockwashers and nuts on two top booster studs and tighten to 200 inch-pounds torque.

PUSH ROD BOOT

AIR CLEANER

COVER BOOT

PUSH ROD

PUSH ROD RETAINER CLIP

Fig. 88—Push Rod (Disassembled View)

54x565

96—BRAKES

LOCK NUT'

CLEVIS

REINFORCEMENT PLATE

5 4 x 5 6 6 A

Fig. 89—Push Rod Adjustment (Unit Removed from Vehicle)

(15) Be sure guide sleeve and air cleaner cover sleeve are concentric. If necessary, tap cover sleeve lightly with rubber mallet to align.

(16) Insert push rod into push rod boot then into air cleaner cover boot and insert assembly. Snap NEW push rod retainer clip into position on small end of push rod.

Be sure that small end of boot is nested snugly in groove on outer end of push rod.

(Refer to Fig. 88.)

(17) Holding boots back toward outer end of push rod, press push rod with retainer clip straight down through center of guide sleeve and into air valve seat cavity. Exert approximately 40 pounds of pressure until end of push rod snaps into place. When properly installed, push rod is held securely in place so that it can be used to lift the weight of the unit.

(18) Fit boots on flange of sleeve of air cleaner cover assembly fitting first the cover boot assembly, then the push rod boot. Be sure that they fit snugly. Install NEW boot retainer strap.

(19) Install bleeder screw and reservoir filler cap and gasket. Also, install stop light switch if it has been removed. Be sure all are in position and secure before installing unit on vehicle.

40. INSTALLING UNIT ON VEHICLE

(See Figs. 89 and 90)

(1) Install clevis on push rod and adjust so that the distance between reinforcing plate and center line of hole in clevis is 8

inches.

Fig. 90—Brake Power Unit Installed

55x9-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—97

(2) Tighten the locknut on the clevis.

(3) Install unit on vehicle and connect clevis to pedal arm. Connect wheel cylinder line to wheel cylinder outlet on side of cylinder.

Connect the vacuum source to the vacuum inlet tube of the vacuum check valve mounted on the unit housing.

CAUTION

The brake system itself is serviced in the conventional manner. Therefore, before servicing the unit, test the operation of the complete brake system. Examine all connections to be sure they are tight Fluid loss may occur at any point in the system; wheel cylinder cups or line connections from unit to wheel cylinders.

41. BLEEDING THE SYSTEM AFTER

INSTALLATION

(1) Attach a pressure bleeder to the fluid reservoir of the unit.

(2) Open bleeder screw and bleed at both output and bleeder opening until unit is free of air.

(3) Close bleeder screw.

(4) Connect (loosely) hydraulic line to hydraulic outlet in secondary connection plug.

42. PEDAL ADIUSTMENT

No adjustment of power unit for "free play" or return stop is required. The power brake unit has a built-in pedal return spring and a pedal return stop, and therefore, requires no "free play" adjustment. The pedal height and travel are determined by the combined length of the push rod and push rod clevis, which is adjustable.

(5) Apply pressure to reservoir with tank again until no air bubbles form around hydraulic outlet connection. Tighten connection.

(8) With pressure applied by pedal, crack open bleeder screw to eliminate all air.

(9) If pedal is still not' firm, bleed wheel brakes.

If adjustment is made while unit is installed on car—slide a scale next to boot (inside of pedal bracket up to and against dash panel) and measure distance back to centerline of clevis pin. This distance should be 8

inches.

(6) Disconnect bleeder tank.

(7) Pump brake pedal several times.

If adjustment is made on rod before unit is installed on car, measure from reinforcing plate mounted on unit to centerline of clevis pin hole.

This dimension should be 8

inches, as indicated in Figure 89.

CAUTION

After bleeding is complete, fill the reservoir to no higher than V% inch below the filler cap neck.

This pedal adjustment determines the pedal height in the car with the unit in the unapplied position.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

STANDARD BRAKES

43. HARD PEDAL

Possible Causes: a. Improper lining.

b. Piston cups swollen due to fluid contamination.

c. Improper shoe adjustment.

Remedies: a. Replace lining with new MOPAR Brake

Lining.

b. Remove master cylinder. Replace cups, clean cylinder and change fluid.

c. Adjust brakes.

98—BRAKES

44. PUMPING OF PEDAL NECESSARY

Possible Causes: a. Worn linings.

b. Improper brake adjustment.

c. Worn wheel cylinders or cups.

d. Hydraulic fluid supply low.

Remedies: a. Replace worn linings with new MOPAR

Brake Lining.

b. Adjust brakes.

c. Recondition worn wheel cylinders as required.

d. Replenish fluid supply.

45. BINDING BRAKE PEDAL

Possible Causes: a. The overall width of the brake pedal hub plus the nylon bushing flanges exceeds the length of the pedal pivot spacer, pinching the hub and bushings.

b. Binding of nylon bushings.

Remedies: a. Remove small amount of metal from pedal hub until pedal pivots freely.

b. Replace bushings if damaged.

46. POOR BRAKES

Possible Causes: a. Water soaked lining.

b. Improper linings (not factory approved).

c. Glazed linings.

d. Improper shoe adjustment.

e. Improper pedal adjustment.

Remedies: a. Dry brake lining by applying brakes while driving.

b. Replace improper lining with new MOPAR

Brake Lining.

c. Glazed linings are usually an indication of

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL hard lining. Replace with new MOPAR Brake

Lining; adjust brakes.

d. Adjust brakes. Heel and toe clearances should be .006 inch (all shoes).

e. Adjust pedal free play.

47. GRABBING BRAKES

Possible Causes: a. Grease, oil or brake fluid soaked linings.

b. Charred linings.

c. Scored or cracked drums.

d. Improper lining.

e. Improper shoe adjustment.

f. Hard spots on drums.

Remedies: a. Linings that become oil or grease soaked must be replaced. Use new MOPAR Brake Lining. Check for oil or grease leaks and replace seals as necessary.

b. Replace charred linings with new MOPAR

Brake Lining.

c. Replace cracked drums. Reface scored drums, being careful not to cut over .030 inch of stock. If drums will not clean up at .030 inch, replace as required.

d. Replace improper linings with new MO-

PAR Brake Lining.

e. Readjust brakes. Heel and toe clearances should be .006 inch (all shoes).

f. Replace defective drums.

48. SIDE PULL

Possible Causes: a. Grease or oil soaked linings.

b. Improper shoe adjustment.

c. Loose anchor pins.

d. Clogged or crimped wheel line.

e. Excessive wear in drum.

f. Different makes of lining.

g. Tires not properly inflated.

h. Charred linings.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL i. Scored drums.

j . Water and mud in brakes.

k. Weak chassis springs.

Remedies: a. Linings that become oil or grease soaked must be replaced. Use new MOPAR Brake Lining. Check for oil or grease leaks and replace seals as necessary.

b. Readjust brakes. Heel and toe clearances should be .006 inch (all shoes).

c. Tighten anchor bolts (pins) and check for heel clearance of .006 inch. Inspect lining for possible excessive wear or damage. Readjust brakes.

d. Replace crimped wheel line. If line is clogged, clear with air pressure. Bleed lines.

e. Reface scored drum being careful not to cut over .030 inch of stock. If the drum will not clean up at .030 inch, replace drum. Check lining and replace if necessary.

f. Replace lining with new MOPAR Brake

Lining.

g. Refer to Wheels and Tires for recommended tire inflation pressures.

h. Replace charred lining with new MOPAR

Brake Lining.

i. Reface scored drum, being careful not to cut over .030 inch of stock from drum. If the drum will not clean up at .030 inch, replace drum.

Check lining and replace if necessary.

j . Remove drums and clean brake assemblies.

Check for possible scoring and replace parts as required. Lubricate all moving parts with MO-

PAR Lubriplate.

k. Check height of front and rear springs, as outlined in Frame, Springs and Shock Absorbers Section.

49. SQUEALING BRAKES

Possible Causes: a. Incorrect lining.

b. Distorted brake drum.

c. Bent brake support plate.

BRAKES—99 d. Sprung or bent brake shoes.

e. Foreign material embedded in lining.

f. Dirt in brake drum.

g. Loose anchor bolts.

h. Brake shoe cocked by cam post.

Remedies: a. Replace lining with new MOPAR Brake

Lining.

b. Replace distorted brake drum.

c. Replace bent support plate.

d. Check shoes for alignment. If shoes cannot be corrected as indicated replace shoes.

e. Remove foreign material embedded in lining. If lining or drum shows signs of heavy scoring, replace lining and reface drum.

f. Remove drum and clean thoroughly. Check drum and lining for possible scoring; if necessary, recondition drum and replace lining.

g. Tighten anchor bolts (pins) and check for heel clearance of .006 inch. Inspect lining for possible excessive wear or damage. Readjust brakes.

h. Remove drums, and insert rubber insulating washer around cam post between shoe web and adjusting cam, as shown in Figure 91. If necessary, groove the lining as described in

Paragraph 50.

50. BRAKE SQUEAKS

NOTE

When brake squeak is encountered, it has been found in most complaints that only the front wheels squeak so, first correct the condition at both front wheels.

a. Cam-Pin Insulator Installation

Occasional brake squeaks will be encounted even after specified standard brake shoe adjustments have been made. In such case, the following instructions for the installation of the cam pin insulator should be followed:

(1) Remove the brake drums. Release and remove the brake shoe return springs. (This will allow the shoes to be rotated far enough apart to partially expose the cam pin.)

100—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKE SHOE TO

ADJUSTING PIN

INSULATOR

6 AS SHOWN COMPLETELY THRU LINING -^

ADJUSTING PIN

BRAKE SHOE A N D

FACING ASSEMBLY

50x116

Fig. 91—Insulating Washer Installed

(2) Hold the shoe guide spring back and insent the insulating washer around the campin between the web of the shoe and the cam, as shown in Figure 91.

(3) Rotate the shoe back into position, allowing the insulating washer to support the web so that there is no contact between the campin and the web of the shoe.

If contact is apparent, file the campin until a satisfactory clearance is obtained.

If brake squeak persists after these adjustments have been made, height gauge readings should be taken, using the insulating washer instead of the campin as the indicating surface. Readings should run from 0 to minus .020 inch. (The support plate can be bent to conform to these dimensions. )

If the preceding instructions have been accomplished, and a squeak still exists, remove the drums and groove the lining as outlined herein: b. Grooving Lining

(1) Remove tire, wheel and brake drum assemblies.

(2) Remove brake shoes and place each in a vise, scribing a line and grooving, as shown in Figure 92.

(3) Cut the groove in the brake lining, using two fine hack saw blades (in one holder) cutting lining through to the face of the brake shoe.

Fig. 92—Grooved Brake Lining

CAUTION

The lining grooving operation should not be attempted on any linings ivhich are riveted or on any of the edge bonded, wire backed, cyclebonded linings.

If the squeak (front or rear brakes), is still evident after grooving the lining, the following procedure is suggested:

(1) Remove brake shoe and clamp shoe in vise.

(2) With a hack saw, slot the web of the shoe to a depth of 1% inches, as close to the table of the shoe as possible, as shown in

Figure 93.

NOTE

If the front brake shoes have four %-inch holes drilled through the table, the slotting procedure should be omitted.

SAW SLOT APPROXIMATELY .025 INCH WIDE

AS CLOSE TO TABLE OF SHOE AS POSSIBLE

Fig. 93—Slot in Web of Shoe

SO x 1 2 6

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

51. OVERHEATING BRAKES

Possible Causes: a. Dragging brakes.

b. High spots on drums.

c. Improper adjustment.

d. Defective master cylinder.

e. Dirt and grime on drums.

f. Incorrect push rod clearance.

Remedies: a. Adjust brakes, See Paragraph 53 for additional possible causes.

b. Check diameter of drum. If refacing of drum does not correct this condition, replace drum.

c. Adjust brakes.

d. Check master cylinder for dirt, rust or corrosion back of piston, which may prevent piston from making a full return. Check also for swollen primary cup. If necessary, recondition master cylinder.

e. Clean brake drums and lining. Check for possible scoring.

f. Adjust pedal push rod clearance.

52. FADING BRAKES

Possible Causes: a. Improper lining.

b. Poor lining contact.

Remedies: a. Replace lining with new MOPAR Brake

Lining.

b. Adjust brakes. Heel and toe clearances should be .006 inch (all shoes).

53. DRAGGING BRAKES

Possible Causes: a. Improper brake adjustment.

b. Distorted cylinder cups.

c. Brake shoe seized on anchor bolt.

d. Weak brake shoe return spring.

BRAKES—101 e. Anchor bolts loose or improperly installed.

f. Sprung brake shoes.

g. Loose wheel bearing.

h. Obstruction in brake line.

i. Warped brake drum.

Remedies: a. Adjust brakes.

b. Replace rubber cylinder cups, drain and flush system. Refill system with MOPAR Super

Brake Fluid. Bleed lines.

c. Free up brake shoe and lubricate anchor bolt with MOPAR Lubriplate.

d. Brake shoe return spring tension should be

40 to 50 foot-pounds extended to 5% inches on front and 50 to 60 foot-pounds extended 5

6 inches on rear. Springs that have lost their tension should be replaced.

e. Tighten loose anchor bolts and check position of arrows.

f. Check shoes for alignment.

g. Readjust front wheel bearings by turning bearing adjusting nut up tight. Turn nut back two slots to the nearest cotter pin slot and install pin. Adjust rear wheel bearings.

h. Disconnect brake lines and clear with air pressure. Refill system with MOPAR Super

Brake Fluid. Bleed lines.

i. Replace warped drum. Check lining for excessive wear, and replace as required.

54. WHEEL LOCKS

Possible Causes: a. Oily fluid on linings.

b. Torn brake lining.

c. Loose lining.

d. Loose or improperly installed anchor bolts.

Remedies: a. Replace lining with new MOPAR Brake

Lining. Clean drum thoroughly. Check for possible grease or brake fluid leaks. Replace parts as necessary to correct this condition.

b. Replace torn lining with new MOPAR

102—BRAKES

Brake Lining. Check shoes for possible distortion.

c. Replace loose lining.

d. Tighten loose anchor bolts, being careful to keep .006 inch clearance at heel, between the lining and drum.

55. ALL BRAKES DRAG

Possible Causes: a. Improper adjustment.

b. Improperly adjusted push rod.

c. Swollen cylinder cups.

d. By-pass port hole in master cylinder.

e. No free pedal travel.

f. Lining too thick.

g. Weak brake shoe return springs.

h. Mineral oil in brake system.

Remedies: a. Adjust brakes.

b. Adjust brake pedal free play.

c. Replace cylinder cups, drain and flush brake system. Refill with MOPAR Super Brake

Fluid. Bleed lines.

d. Remove master cylinder, clean or recondition as necessary.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL e. Adjust push rod setting to approximately

Vs to *4

mcn

> until free pedal travel is obtained.

f. Check lining thickness. Lining should be no more than %

inch thick.

g. Check brake shoe return spring tension.

h. Mineral base oil, such as Engine Oil and kerosene, when present in the brake system, will cause the cylinder cups to swell and bind, making it necessary to replace all rubber parts. Brake system should be flushed with alcohol, and refilled with MOPAR Super Brake Fluid.

56. NO PEDAL RESERVE

Possible Causes: a. Normal wear on linings (on shoe type brakes).

b. Leaks in brake system.

Remedies: a. As brake linings wear, it becomes necessary to set shoe type brake closer to the brake drums. Adjust brakes.

b. A leak in tube connections will allow the pedal, under pressure, to go gradually to the toeboard. A master cylinder cup leak does not necessarily result in loss of pedal travel, but is indicated by a loss of fluid in supply tank. If no leaks are found, either at wheels or connections, master cylinder should be removed and bore checked for scratches and scores.

POWER UNIT SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

57. BRAKE SYSTEM LOSES FLUID

Possible Causes: a. Loose or broken connections in brake hydraulic system or loose stop light switch, located at front of hydraulic cylinder.

b. Worn or damaged primary cup, primary cup seal, " 0 " ring cylinder to body, or "dome" reaction cup.

Remedies: a. Replace or tighten all faulty connections.

b. Replace damaged cups and seals using replacement kit.

NOTE

If heavy abrasive action has taken place, due to severe contamination of the brake fluid, install

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL a new power piston and sleeve assembly after thoroughly flushing reservoir and wheel cylinder lines.

58. BRAKES DO NOT RELEASE PROPERLY

Possible Causes: a. Failure of brake pedal to return properly.

b. Plugged compensating holes near end of sleeve of power piston assembly.

c. Broken, damaged, or weakened power piston return spring, control spring, or reaction spring.

d. Excessively dry air valve "0" ring.

e. Brakes improperly adjusted.

f. Inspection screw and gasket loose or missing.

g. Cylinder misalignment on unit after installation of repair kit.

h. The sleeve section of the air cleaner cover assembly is not concentric with power piston guide sleeve, causing excessive friction between nylon insert in cover boot with push rod.

i. Blocked compensation holes, after the installation of repair kit—caused by the "thick" power piston guide return bumper being installed when a "thin" bumper should have been used.

Remedies: a. See Paragraphs 40 and 42.

b. Open unit and clean thoroughly, also flush lines.

c. Replace springs.

d. Install new air valve "0" ring lubricated with special silicone grease using replacement kit.

e>. Adjust brakes.

f. Replace inspection screw and gasket.

g. Remove unit from car, loosen cylinder nuts, center the cylinder and tighten nuts as power unit is pushed in and out of cylinder. See installation procedure in this section.

h. Remove power unit with reinforcement plate, remove boot retaining strap, and slide boots back on push rod—rap lightly with rubber

BRAKES—103 mallet the end of the boot retaining sleeve of the air cleaner cover assembly until retainer sleeve is concentric with power piston guide sleeve. Re-assemble boots in groove of air cleaner boot retainer sleeve.

i. Replace the thick bumper with the proper thin bumper, following the service instructions.

NOTE

Constant "riding" of the brake pedal by the operator, will also cause excessive generation of heat at the brake drums, resulting in excessive brake pedal travel and undue wear of the linings.

59. POWER UNIT DOES NOT BOOST

Test to determine if unit is operating. With the engine stopped, depress brake pedal several times to eliminate all vacuum from the system.

Apply the brakes, and while holding foot pressure on the brake pedal, start the engine. If the unit is operating the brake pedal will move forward when engine vacuum power is added to the pedal pressure.

60. POWER UNIT DOES NOT OPERATE

AFTER PERFORMING TEST (Par. 59)

Possible Causes: a. Bent, broken or obstructed vacuum source line from engine manifold to check valve or a faulty check valve.

b. Blocked air passage in power piston guide sleeve assembly or in air cleaner element.

Remedies: a. Replace line, hose or check valve as necessary.

b. Clean air passage in power piston guide after disassembly, and replace air cleaner core.

Open unit and clean out foreign material, replacing all parts supplied in repair kit.

NOTE

When installing new boots or making push rod adjustment, be certain that large ends of boots are both properly installed in groove on air cleaner cover sleeve and that boot retaining strap is in place.

104—BRAKES

61. LOSS OF PEDAL

Possible Causes:

a. Foreign material lodged between the reaction piston and the reaction piston insert, under the reaction piston dome cup, resulting in excessive friction betwe'en the ports. Grease, fluid, or moisture on brake linings. Brakes improperly adjusted.

Remedy:

a. Open unit and clean out foreign material, replacing all parts supplied in repair kit.

62. SPONGY PEDAL

Possible Cause:

a. Air in brake lines or in hydraulic cylinder of power unit.

Remedy:

a. Bleed system thoroughly.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

63. P E D A L TRAVEL T O O G R E A T

Possible Causes:

a. Improperly adjusted brakes.

b. Air in brake system.

Remedies:

a. Adjust brakes.

b. Bleed system thoroughly.

64. PEDAL CHATTER

Possible Causes:

a. Air in brake lines or in hydraulic cylinder of power unit.

Remedy: a. Bleed system thoroughly.

NUMBER

Section IV

CLUTCH

DATE

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

SUBJECT CHANGES

106—CLUTCH CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

Section IV

CLUTCH

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

C-67

Clutch Model 1376

Type Single Plate

Facings 2

Inside Diameter 6"

Outside Diameter 10"

9 Brown

Individual Spring Pressure—Lbs 218 at 1

" Length

Total Spring Load 1962 Lbs.

Crankshaft Flange Face Runout .001"

Diameter Runout .002"

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

C-360 Aligning Arbor (Clutch Disc)

C-585 Compressing Fixture (with No. 44 Spacer)

C-647 Spring Tester

C-41 Remover Tool—Pilot Bushing

DD-286 .Installing Tool—Pilot Bushing

C-870 Fixture—Clutch Housing Aligning

C-435 or C-430 Indicator

C-730 Transmission Pilot Studs

C-860 Reamer

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Torque

Part Name (Foot-Pounds)

Rear Engine Support Insulator Bolts 85

Clutch Housing Cap Screws , 35

Clutch Cover Bolts 20

Transmission to Clutch Housing Cap Screws 50

CLUTCH—107 CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

Section IV

CLUTCH

(C-67 ONLY)

1. GENERAL INFORMATION

The clutch is of the single dry disc type, with no adjustment for wear being provided in the clutch itself. An individual adjustment is provided for locating each lever in the manufacturing process and should never be disturbed, unless the clutch is to be removed from the car for repair or overhauling.

The only adjustment required while the clutch is in the car, is linkage adjustment to obtain the correct amount of clutch pedal free play. Clutch pedal free play is the movement of the pedal before the clutch starts to engage or disengage.

Linkage adjustment is required to restore pedal free play when it has been reduced by normal wear of the clutch.

The only service maintenance required is regular periodic lubrication of the clutch (linkage) torque shaft pivot bearings.

CAUTION

It is very important, when rebuilding or installing a clutch, that the correct clutch disc, pressure plate and springs be installed. Serious vibration, noise or grabbing, chattery clutch will result.

(Note the total spring pressure and color of springs.)

COVER

RELEASE LEVER

SPRING

EYEBOLT NUTS

STRUT

EYEBOLT

5 2 x 5 2 4

Fig. 1—Typical Clutch Assembly (Disassembled View)

DISC ASSEMBLY

ACK

(6-SPRINGS)

108—CLUTCH CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

SERVICE PROCEDURES

2. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CLUTCH a. Removal

Improper operation or excessive wear may impair the clutch function to the point which may necessitate its removal and overhaul.

The clutch can be removed only after the transmission has been removed. To remove the clutch, proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the transmission.

(2) Remove the clutch housing pan.

(3) Pull out the clutch release bearing and sleeve.

(4) Mark the clutch cover and flywheel, as shown in Figure 2. Remove the bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel. Loosen each bolt a few turns (in succession) until cover is free. The clutch disc and pressure plate assembly can now be removed from the clutch housing.

b. Installation

When installing the clutch, observe the following precautions:

Fig. 2—Punch Marks on Clutch Cover and Flywheel

1— Clutch cover

2—Punch marks

3—Engine flywheel

4—Balance drilling in engine flywheel

Fig. 3—Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor

(Tool C-360)

(1) Coat the transmission drive pinion pilot bushing (in end of crankshaft) with medium short fiber wheel bearing grease

(about a half teaspoonf ul). Place grease in

O.D. of cavity at inner end of bushing.

(2) Clean the surface of the flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly, making certain that all oil or grease has been removed.

(3) Hold the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover in mounting position, with the springs on the disc facing away from the flywheel.

Insert a spare transmission drive pinion clutch shaft through hub of disc and into the pilot bushing. If this item is not available, Tool C-360 may be used, as illustrated in Figure 3.

(4) Insert the clutch cover attaching bolts

(after aligning balance punch marks) but do not tighten.

(5) To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, the bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time (alternately) until they are all tight.

Tighten the bolts from 15 to 20 foot-pounds torque. Remove Tool C-360 or pinion shaft

(if used).

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

Fig. 4—Clutch Cover and Pressure Plate

Assembly in Fixture

1 —Clutch cover

2—Clutch pressure plate

3-Fixture (Tool C-585)

4—Punch marks on pressure plate and cover

(6) Install the transmission by guiding into position with pilot studs, Tool C-730. Care should be taken not to bend the clutch disc by allowing the transmission to hang. Support the transmission with a suitable jack, then slide into place and secure with bolts.

Adjust the clutch pedal free play.

3. SERVICING THE CLUTCH

(USING FIXTURE, TOOL C-585)

With the clutch cover and pressure plate removed from the car, proceed as follows: a. Disassembly

(1) Mark the cover and pressure plate with a prick punch, as shown in Figure 4, so that they may be assembled in their original position to maintain balance.

(2) Mount the clutch assembly on compressing fixture, Tool C-585, as shown in Figure 4.

(3) Install the three-legged spider over the center screw, so that it rests directly on top of the clutch cover.

(4) Install the thrust washer and compression nut. Compress assembly by tightening the compression nut.

(5) With the assembly under pressure, remove the clutch release lever eyebolt nuts. Release the pressure by unscrewing the compression nut slowly, in order to prevent the springs from flying out.

CLUTCH—109

(6) The cover can now be lifted off exposing all parts for cleaning and inspection.

NOTE

It is important that a notation is made of the location of parts, including the arrangement of the springs.

(7) Grasp the lever and eyebolt between the thumb and fingers, as shown in Figure 5, so that inner end of lever and the upper end of eyebolt are close together (keep the eyebolt pin seated in its socket in the lever).

(8) Lift strut over ridge on end of lever and remove lever and eyebolt from the pressure plate.

b. Inspection

Clean all parts thoroughly using a suitable solvent. Inspect carefully for excessive wear or distortion.

c. Pressure Plate

If the pressure plate shows signs of scoring, excessive wear, heat checking or warped more than .005 inch, a new pressure plate should be installed.

d. Testing Pressure Springs

It is advisable to test pressure springs when the clutch is dismantled (after considerable service) or if there has been a great amount of slippage

(creating excessive heat) which may have caused the springs to lose their initial pressure.

34x97

Fig. 5—Removing or Installing Clutch Release Lever

110—CLUTCH

To test pressure springs, place springs (one at a time) on the seat of Tool C-647, as shown in

Figure 6. Attach torque wrench and check pressure (multiply the reading on torque wrench by

2 to obtain correct spring pressure). Discard springs that do not meet minimum requirements.

Refer to Data and Specifications.

e. Cover Plate

Check the cover plate for distortion by laying plate on a smooth surface. If the cover shows signs of distortion, install a new cover.

f. Release Levers

Replace release levers that are badly worn on the tips (this is an indication of operation with insufficient free play and/or damaged release bearing). Replace eyebolts or adjusting nuts if threads are damaged. Check the struts for wear on the contact edges. Install new parts as required.

g. Assembling the Clutch

To assemble the clutch, coat the driving lug sides with a thin coat of MOPAR Lubriplate. Assemble the release levers as follows:

Assemble the lever pin and eyebolt to the release lever. Holding the threaded end of eyebolt between the thumb and index finger, allow the end of lever to rest on second finger. Keep end of lever and eyebolt as close as possible.

Fig. 6—Testing Clutch Pressure Springs

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

With the other hand, grasp strut between thumb and first finger and insert in slot of pressure plate lug. Drop strut slightly until it touches the vertical milled surface of lug. Insert the lower end of eyebolt into hole in pressure plate, which will bring the short end of lever under the hood of lug and near the strut. Slide the strut upward in slot and lift over ridge and into groove on short end of lever.

Assemble the remaining release levers in the same manner. Continue to assemble, observing the following precautions:

(1) Place the pressure springs on the small bosses on the pressure plate and in the same order of sequence as removed.

NOTE

It is very important that the springs be arranged in like sequence in each group in order to retain original balance.

(2) Match up the prick punch marks made when disassembling, so that the cover and pressure plate will be assembled in their original relationship.

(3) The assembly may be slowly compressed (as outlined for disassembly), making sure that the eyebolts and drive lugs are guided through the holes in the cover.

(4) Screw the adjusting nuts on the protruding eyebolts, until the nuts are flush with the top of the eyebolts. Slowly release pressure by unscrewing the compression nut on the tool. Depress each lever several times to settle parts into working position.

4. ADJUSTING THE RELEASE LEVERS (Fig. 7)

Mount the clutch assembly on fixture Tool C-585 with the release levers over the feeler gauge in the base of the fixture and proceed as follows:

(1) Install the bolts that hold the cover to the fixture and tighten securely.

(2) Place the spacer (number 44) on the center screw of the fixture.

(3) Install the compression plate on the center screw. Make sure it rests directly against the clutch release levers.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL CLUTCH—111

Fig. /—Adjusting Clutch Release Levers

1-Feeler blades (part of Tool C-585

2—Compression plate (part of Tool C-585)

3-Spacers (part of Tool C-585)

4—Clutch release lever eye bolt

5—Clutch release lever eye bolt nut

6-Stake here to lock

(4) Install the self-aligning washer, flatwasher and compression nut.

(5) Tighten the compression nut until the clutch is fully compressed.

(6) Adjust the clutch release levers until the feeler gauges have the same slight drag or feel while being pushed in or pulled out.

Tighten the nuts to decrease drag and loosen to increase drag, as shown in Figure 7.

(7) Recheck the release lever adjustment to make sure each one is adjusted properly.

Stake the nuts to hold them in position.

(8) Remove clutch from fixture and install in car, as described in Paragraph 2, of this

Section.

NOTE

Before installing the clutch in the car, check the total spring pressure (see Data and Specifica-

tions) .

5. SERVICING TRANSMISSION DRIVE

PINION PILOT BUSHING

The use of Tool C-41 will facilitate the removal of worn or scored pilot bushings.

a. Removal

To remove pilot bushing, screw the tapered pilot of Tool C-41 into the bushing allowing pilot to cut its own threads until a solid grip is obtained.

Insert puller screw and turn, forcing bushing out of crankshaft.

b. Replacement

To replace pilot bushing, slide new bushing over the pilot of Tool DD-286 and drive into place with a soft hammer. This causes bushing to tighten up on pilot. Install cup and puller nut and tighten, thereby, removing tool from bushing. This action burnishes the bushing to the exact size and leaves a smooth and lasting finish.

Lubricate the bushing with about a half teaspoon of short fiber grease. Insert grease in O.D.

of cavity at inner end of bushing (not on clutch shaft) as shown in Figure 8.

6. REMOVING OR INSTALLING THE

CLUTCH FORK a. Removal

Should it become necessary to replace, remove or install the clutch fork, refer to Figure 9 and

10 and proceed as follows:

(1) Unhook the clutch release fork pull-back spring.

(2) Disconnect the rear end of the clutch fork

Fig. 8—Lubricating Pilot Bushing

Hutch pressure plate 2—Flywheel 3—Pilot bushing

112—CLUTCH

TORQUE SHAFT ASSY.

SNAP RING

BEARING-2

BOOT

SPRING WASHER

CLUTCH PEDAL

RELEASE ROD

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

BEARING-2

STUD

LOCK WASHER

BRACKET

SPRING

BRACKET

SCREW-3

SPRING

RELEASE

FORK

PIN

WASHER

COTTER

LOCK WASHER-3

NUT

ROD END

SPRING WASHER

Fig. 9—Clutch Linkage (Showing Relationship ot Parts)

55x21 rod from the fork by removing retaining spring and flatwasher. Lift out clevis pin and separate rod from fork.

(3) Pry dust cover boot out and away from clutch housing. Slide boot down shank of fork. This will expose the clutch fork pivot and clutch release bearing.

(4) Pivot the clutch fork shank end toward front of engine, at the same time exert sufficient pressure to disengage clutch fork spring clip from pivot ball.

(5) Slide clutch fork forward and disengage from throw-out bearing spring. Pull out of clutch housing.

NOTE

It is usually necessary to remove the clutch housing pan before installing the clutch fork. This is done to facilitate correct location of fork on the release bearing sleeve and for proper assembly of fork boot into clutch housing.

b. Installation

(1) Slide release bearing as far forward as it will go. Slide clutch fork into housing and engage with springs on throw-out bearing.

(2) Slightly pull outward on fork and engage with pivot. Push fork inward to allow retaining spring to pass around pivot stud.

NOTE

Before installing clutch fork, be sure the fork fingers are lubricated with short fibre grease and the pivot indent is lubricated with MOPAR

Lubriplate.

(3) Slide dust boot over shank of clutch fork and down against clutch housing. Force retaining tangs of boot into housing opening to hold boot in position.

(4) Engage rear end of clutch fork rod with fork. Align holes and install clevis pin and flatwasher. Secure with spring retainer.

(5) Hook the release fork pull back spring.

REINFORCEMENT

GASKET BRACKET

WASHER

LOCKWASHER

NUT

BEARING

BRACKET

FORK / SEAL

BOLT

PAD-

Fig. 10—Typical Clutch Linkage (Exploded View)

54x581

114—CLUTCH

WINDSHIELD

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

CLUTCH OVER-CENTER SPRING

PEDAL M O U N T I N G BRACKET

PEDAL RETURN

RUBBER STOP

INSTRUMENT PANEL

STEERING COLUMN

EYE BOLT-

ADJUSTING NUTr

DASH PANEL-

CLUTCH

PEDAL H STEERING

COLUMN

ACCELERATOR PEDAL-W' v

PEDAL LOCATION

PEDAL TRAVEL

TORQUE SHAFT

CLUTCH RELEASE

FORK ROD

ACCELERATOR

PEDAL

CLUTCH FORK PULL BACK SPRING

CLUTCH RELEASE FORK

Fig. 11—Suspended Clutch Pedal Assembly and Linkage

(Brake Pedal Not Shown)

FRAME

54x620

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

7. REPLACING CLUTCH TORQUE SHAFT

PIVOT BUSHINGS a. Disassembly

To install new torque shaft bushings, refer to

Figures 9 and 10 and proceed as follows:

(1) Unhook the clutch release fork pull-back spring from bracket and fork.

(2) Remove the spring retainer that holds the clutch fork rod to the torque shaft. Disengage rod from shaft. Swing rod out of way.

(3) Remove the spring retainer holding the pedal rod to the torque shaft. Disengage pedal rod from torque shaft lever pin.

(4) Remove the bolts that hold the torque shaft bracket to the frame. (These bolts are located up under the front fender behind splash shield).

(5) Remove the retaining spring that holds the pivot, bracket and bushings to the torque shaft. Exert sufficient pressure to force bushings out of torque shaft.

(6) Pull torque shaft away from pivot on clutch housing. This forces bushings out of torque shaft. Remove torque shaft from under car.

Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect the pivot balls and bushings for signs of scoring or excessive wear. Install new parts as required.

b. Assembly

To assemble the torque shaft, refer to Figures

9 and 10 and proceed as follows:

(1) Lubricate the pivot bushings with a suitable chassis grease, and slide over the pivot ball attached to the clutch housing. Slide end of torque shaft over the bushings and down into position.

(2) Place the two remaining bushings on the pivot ball mounted on the bracket. Slide the free end of the torque shaft over the bushings and down into position. Install the retaining spring.

(3) Slide the pivot bracket against the frame side rail and install bolts and lockwashers.

Tighten securely.

(4) Engage the clutch pedal rod with the torque shaft lever pin and install spring clip.

CLUTCH—115

(5) Slide the clutch fork rod over pin on lower lever of torque shaft and install spring clip.

(6) Slide one end of the clutch release fork pull back spring in the hole in fork shank, and the other end into bracket on housing.

(7) After new bushings have been installed, lubricate thoroughly. Check the clutch pedal for free play (approximately 1" at the pedal pad or %

" free movement at the outer end of the clutch fork).

8. ADJUSTING THE OVER-CENTER SPRING

The position of the over-center spring is controlled by an adjusting nut and threaded eye, shown in Figure 11.

The upper end of the "C" link is attached by the threaded eyebolt to the over-center spring.

The lower end of the "C" link is attached by a pivot to the clutch pedal. The over-center spring is attached at the top end by a pin at the upper corner of the pedal mounting bracket.

To adjust the over-center spring, refer to

Figure 11, and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove spring clip that holds the clutch pedal rod to the clutch pedal.

(2) Back off the over-center spring adjusting nut until free of "C" link.

(3) With the pedal at 7 inches travel position use the fingers, run adjusting nut back up until it just contacts the "C" link.

(4) Turn adjusting nut against "C" link 7 full turns. No more!

(5) Install clutch pedal rod and secure with spring clip.

This adjustment should give from 12 to 15 pounds pressure on clutch pedal when pedal is held down 1 inch from fully released position.

9. CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTMENT

(FREE MOVEMENT)

Adjust the clutch fork rod "in" or "out" as required to secure %

inch free play of the clutch release fork outer end. This will provide the 1 inch free pedal movement at the pedal pad with a total of 7 inches full pedal travel.

116—CLUTCH

The upper end of the clutch pedal pivots in the lower end of the mounting bracket, on needle bearings. These bearings require no periodic lubrication, however, they should be lubricated with wheel bearing grease if the pedal is removed for any repair function.

10. CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT

When performing adjustments or repairs that involve removing the clutch housing, it will be necessary to align the face of the housing parallel with that of the block, when assembling.

To correctly align the clutch housing, proceed as follows:

(1) Inspect the housing face where it contacts the cylinder block, for particles of dirt or burrs. Remove burrs with a file and clean both surfaces thoroughly. Install clutch housing. Tighten clutch housing to block bolts just snug enough so the housing can be shifted if necessary by tapping with a mallet.

(2) Install the fixture, Tool C-870 to the flywheel attaching bolts, as shown in Figure 12. Install the indicator, Tool C-435 or C-430, as shown in Figure 12. Rotate the crankshaft and check the inside diameter of the housing bore; it should not vary more than .005 inch in one complete revolution of the crankshaft. If alignment is necessary, remove the dowel pins and tap the housing until it comes within the specified tolerance. After obtaining correct alignment, tighten the housing bolts 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

55 x561

Fig. 13—Typical Method of Checking Rear

Face of Housing

(3) Change the position of the dial indicator and check the rear face of the housing, as shown in Figure 13. This tolerance must be within

.003 inch. Assuming that all burrs and dirt has been removed as described in step (1), this tolerance will no doubt be within the specified limits.

If alignment of the housing was necessary as described in step (2), the dowel pin holes will have to be reamed. Ream with Tool

C-860, as shown in Figure 14, for .512 inch

(oversize) dowel pins.

(4) After reaming the dowel pin holes, install the two dowels in the block from the front end.

Fig. 12—Typical Method of Attaching Fixture C-870 and

Checking Clutch Housing Bore Fig. 14—Reaming Dowel Pin Holes

49x716

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

Fig. 15—Installing Shim Between Engine and Clutch Housing

(5) If alignment of the face of the housing was necessary, as described in step (3), it will be necessary to place proper thickness of shim stock between the clutch housing and engine as shown in Figure 15.

CLUTCH—117

NOTE

Failure to align clutch housing may result in hard shifting of transmission and the possibility of gear disengagement.

CAUTION

Steam Cleaning the Engine—Immediately after the cleaning operation, start engine and "slip the clutch*' in order to dry off the disc assembly, pressure plate, and/or flywheel.

The clutch housing being ventilated, steam vapor condenses and moisture settles on the internal moving parts of clutch mechanism. The facings on the disc will absorb moisture and under the force exerted by the pressure plate, will bond the facings to flywheel and/or, the pressure plate—if the car is allowed to stand for some time before use. If this condition occurs, it will necessitate complete replacement of disc, pressure plate, flywheel and/or, driving plate.

11. CHATTERING CLUTCH

Possible Causes:

a. Improper lever adjustment.

b. Oil or grease on facings.

c. Worn splines on transmission shaft.

d. Binding pressure plate.

e. Binding release levers.

f. Binding disc hub.

g. Glazed facings.

h. Unequal contact of pressure plate.

i. Bent clutch disc.

j . Uneven spring pressures.

k. Improper alignment of transmission.

1. Loose facings.

m. Scored pressure plate.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Remedies: a. Readjust clutch, as outlined in Adjustments, Paragraph 4, of this Section.

b. Check for oil leaks at rear main bearing and at transmission pinion shaft bearing. To correct this condition, refer to Engine and Transmission Sections in this manual. Replace disc assembly and clean clutch parts thoroughly.

c. Replace worn transmission drive pinion

(clutch shaft). Install new disc assembly and adjust clutch.

d. Check pressure plate for binding where lug protrudes through cover; coat contact surfaces with a thin coat of MOPAR Lubriplate. Replace worn partg as required.

e. Free up binding release levers. Check for worn or damaged threads on eyebolts, adjusting nuts or where binding appears to be present.

Check struts for wear on contact edges and, if necessary, replace.

118—CLUTCH f. Replace disc assembly and adjust clutch.

g. Replace disc assembly after checking pressure plate, flywheel or driving plate for possible scoring. If parts are badly scored or worn, complete replacement is required.

h. Check clearances of release levers, disc for thickness and pressure plate for parallel position against flywheel or driving plate.

i. Replace disc assembly after checking to determine cause of distortion. Examine pressure plate for excessive wear or scoring. Replace if necessary.

j . Check springs for pressure, as described in

Testing Pressure Springs, Paragraph 3 (d), of this Section.

k. Check clutch housing alignment. Misalignment between transmission and clutch housing may be caused by chips, dirt, buckled gaskets or burrs. Check to determine cause and correct.

1. Replace disc assembly. Examine pressure plate and flywheel or driving plate for possible scoring and excessive wear. Replace as required.

m. If pressure plate shows signs of scoring, excessive wear, heat checking, of if warped more than .005 inch, plate must be replaced.

12. GRABBING CLUTCH

Possible Causes: a. Improper lever adjustment.

b. Oil or grease on facings.

c. Worn pressure plate, flywheel or drive plate.

d. Clutch disc hub sticking on pinion (clutch) shaft.

e. Worn or binding release levers.

f. Worn or glazed facings.

g. Broken or weak pressure springs.

h. Incorrect disc facings.

i. Improper alignment of transmission.

j . Worn or deteriorated rubber engine mountings, k. Engine loose in supports.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

Possible Causes: a. Adjust clutch as outlined in Adjustments,

Paragraph 4, of this Section.

b. Replace disc assembly. Check for oil leak at rear main bearing. To replace the oil seal, refer to Engine Section.

c. A flywheel or pressure plate, that shows signs of excessive wear, heat or scoring, must be replaced.

d. Free up disc hubs. Check pinion shaft for excessive wear or burrs. Check disc assembly for distortion and replace if necessary.

e. Release levers that are badly worn on the tips should be replaced. This is an indication of operation with insufficient free play or damaged release bearing. Worn or damaged threads on eyebolts or adjusting nuts, or where binding appears to be present (which retards free movement) should be corrected. Check struts for wear on contact edges and replace as required.

f. Replace disc assembly. Check pressure plate for excessive wear or scoring. Replace parts as required.

g. Replace broken or weak springs. To test springs for pressure, refer to Testing Pressure

Springs, Paragraph 3 (d) of this Section.

h. Replace disc assembly. Use Factory Engineered and Inspected Clutch Disc Assembly.

Adjust clutch.

i. Check clutch housing alignment. Misalignment between transmission and clutch housing may be caused by chips, dirt, buckled gasket or burrs. Check to determine cause and correct.

j . Replace worn engine mountings.

k. Check engine mountings for loose bolts.

Tighten as required to correct this condition.

13. SUPPING CLUTCH

Possible Causes: a. Weak or broken pressure springs: b. Worn facings.

c. Improper clutch adjustments.

d. Oil or grease on facings.

e. Warped disc assembly.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL CLUTCH—119 f. Warped or scored pressure plate.

g. Binding release levers.

h. Improper clutch linkage adjustment.

Remedies: a. Replace weak or broken springs. To test springs for pressure, refer to Testing Pressure

Springs, Paragraph 3 (d) of this Section.

NOTE

It is advisable to replace pressure springs when clutch is dismantled (after considerable service) or if there has been a great amount of slippage

(creating excessive heat), tvhich may have caused the springs to lose initial tension.

b. Replace disc assembly. Check pressure, plate, flywheel, or clutch driving plate for possible scoring, heat checking or excessive wear.

Test pressure springs for loss of pressure.

Replace parts as needed.

c. Examine disc assembly for excessive wear or a glazed surface, pressure plate for possible scoring or distortion. Test springs for pressure.

Replace parts as required. Adjust clutch.

d. Replace disc assembly. Check for oil leak at rear main bearing. To replace the oil seal, refer to Engine Section.

e. Replace warped or distorted disc assembly after examining pressure plate for possible damage. Test pressure springs for pressure as described in Paragraph 3 (d) of this Section.

f. A pressure plate that is badly scored, heat checked or warped more than .020 inch, must be replaced. Test springs for pressure and install new disc assembly.

g. Free up release levers where binding appears to be present which retards free movement. Examine struts for excessive wear on contact surfaces. Lubricate all moving parts with

MOPAR Lubriplate. Check disc and pressure plate for scoring or heat checking, and test pressure springs for pressure. Replace parts as required.

h. Adjust for clutch pedal free play.

14. DRAGGING CLUTCH

Possible Causes: a. Oil or grease on facings.

b. Incorrect lever adjustment.

c. Incorrect pedal adjustment.

d. Dust or dirt in clutch.

e. Worn or broken facings.

f. Bent clutch disc.

g. Disc hub binding on pinion shaft.

h. Binding pilot bushing.

i. Sticking release bearing sleeve.

j . Warped pressure plate.

k. Improper alignment of transmission.

1. Clutch facings too thick.

Remedies: a. Replace disc assembly. Check for oil leak at rear main bearing. To replace the oil seal, refer to Engine Section.

b. Read j ust levers after checking for possible damage. Refer to Paragraph 3, of this Section.

c. Readjust pedal as described in Adjustments, Paragraph 8 of this Section.

d. Disassemble clutch and clean thoroughly.

Examine all parts for excessive wear or scoring.

Replace worn or scored parts as required. At reassembly, coat all moving parts with a thin coat of MOPAR Lubriplate.

e. Replace disc assembly. Inspect pressure plate for excessive wear or scoring. Test pressure springs for pressure, as described in Paragraph

3, (A) of this Section.

f. Replace bent disc assembly after checking to determine cause of distortion. Replace worn or scored parts.

g. Free up disc assembly. Check pinion shaft

(clutch shaft) for burrs or gummed splines.

Replace parts as required to correct this condition.

h. Replace pinion shaft (clutch shaft) pilot bushing, as outlined in Paragraph 4 of this

Section.

120—CLUTCH i. Free up sticking sleeve and examine mating surfaces for scoring or rough spots. Replace parts as required to correct this condition.

j . A pressure plate that is warped more than

.005 inch must be replaced. Install new disc assembly. Adjust clutch.

k. Check clutch housing alignment. Misalignment between transmission and clutch may be caused by chips, dirt, buckled gasket, or burrs.

Determine cause of condition and correct.

1. When replacing the disc assembly, always use Factory Engineered and Inspected Parts.

15. SQUEAKING CLUTCH

Possible Causes: a. Lack of lubrication in release sleeve.

b. Worn release sleeve.

c. Dry pilot bushing.

d. Pilot bushing turning in crankshaft.

e. Worn drive pinion bearing.

f. Improper alignment of transmission.

g. Dry clutch plate drive lugs.

Remedies: a. Lubricate release sleeve with MOPAR

Lubriplate.

b. Check sleeve land for interference at Oilite part of release bearing. Replace sleeve if necessary.

c. Replace pilot bushing as outlined in Servicing Clutch Shaft Pilot Bushing, Paragraph 5 of this Section.

d. Replace pilot bushing as indicated above.

e. Replace worn drive pinion bearing after checking bearing retainer for cracks and excessive wear. Examine pilot bushing and if necessary, replace (see c).

f. Check clutch housing alignment. Misalignment between transmission and clutch housing may be caused by chips, dirt, buckled gasket or burrs. Check to determine cause and correct.

g. Apply MOPAR Lubriplate to drive lugs.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

16. VIBRATING CLUTCH

Possible Causes: a. Improper balance of assembly.

b. Improper fitting of pressure plate.

c. Pressure spring off center.

d. Improper clutch alignment.

e. Loose engine mountings.

f. Worn transmission main shaft rear bearing.

Remedies: a. Replace disc assembly and pressure plate to correct this condition.

b. Check clutch cover for distortion which would interfere with correct operation of pressure plate. Check clutch cover assembly mounting bolts for looseness and tighten if necessary.

c. Check springs for alignment on bosses and test for tension. See Paragraph 3 (d) of this

Section.

d. Replace disc assembly and align with aligning Tool C-360. Readjust clutch.

e. Tighten engine mounting bolts as required.

f. Replace worn transmission main shaft rear bearing.

17. VIBRATION PERIODS

Possible Causes: a. Loss of friction lag in clutch disc damper because of oil contamination or use of incorrect disc assembly.

b. Propeller shaft installed with ends reversed from original assembly.

c. Broken or sagging rear springs.

Remedies: a. Install new factory engineered clutch disc assembly.

b. Reverse assembly of prop, shaft to transmission and axle carrier. Or rotate propeller ends 180 degrees relative to transmission and axle flanges.

c. Replace rear springs.

NUMBER

Section V

COOLING SYSTEM

DATE

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

SUBJECT CHANGES

122—COOLING SYSTEM

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

COOLING SYSTEM

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

C-67 C-68 and C-69 C-70

COOLING SYSTEM

Type

Capacity:

With Heater

Without Heater

Radiator Cap Relief Valve

Pressure—psi

With Air Conditioning

WATER PUMP

Type

Bearing Type

Shaft End Play

THERMOSTAT

Type

Starts to Open

(up to)

(after)

Fully Open

FAN BELT

No. Used

Type

Tension

FAN

No. of Blades

Diameter

Radiator-to-Blade

Clearance

RADIATOR

Type

Thickness

FAN SHROUD

Type

Pressure Vent

Centrifugal

Ball Bearing

.015 in. max.

159° to 165° F.

155° to 160° F.

189° F.

25 qts.

24 qts.

Choke one

in. Slack

Pressure Vent

26 qts.

25 qts.

Centrifugal

Ball Bearing

.015 in. max.

Choke

159° to 165° F.

155° to 160° F.

189° F.

one

1/2 in. Slack

Pressure Vent

26 qts.

25 qts.

Centrifugal

Ball Bearing

.015 in. max.

Choke

159° to 165° F.

155° to 160° F.

189° F.

two*

1/2 in. Slack six

18 in.

Top—4i3/

i n

Bottom—3

in.

Cellular*

2% in.

four*

18 in.

Top—4i%

in.

Bottom—3

in.

Fin & Tube

3 in.

four*

18 in.

Top—4i3/

in.

Bottom—3

in.

Fin & Tube

3 in.

Ring* Ring* Ring*

*The Model C-67 uses the fin and tube type radiator with a 3-inch core. All Models with air conditioning have a box type fan shroud. On Models C-68, C-69 and C-70 a 6 blade fan with one fan belt is used with air conditioning.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

COOLING SYSTEM—123

Section V

COOLING SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION

The cooling system incorporates either the cellular or the fin and tube type full flow radiator and a centrifugal pump. Full length water jackets insure an even dissipation of heat within the cylinder block.

The water pump circulates the coolant through both blocks, around the cylinder bores, and up into the cylinder heads. The coolant then circulates through the cylinder heads, and around the exhaust valve ports. From the valve ports the coolant flows through the thermostat housing and returns to the radiator.

The cooling system of all models can be pressurized to 7 psi (14 psi when equipped with air conditioning). The radiator pressure cap is of the pressure vented type and normally will not go under pressure until the boiling point of the coolant is reached.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

WATER PUMP

Refer to Figure 1 and proceed as follows: a. Removal From Engine

(1) Drain the cooling system.

(2) Remove radiator inlet hose (and heater hoses if so equipped.)

(3) Remove wire from temperature gauge sending unit.

(4) Remove fan shroud.

(5) Remove idler pulley, fan, generator, and fan assembly.

(6) Remove radiator outlet hose from oil cooler, and disconnect oil cooler from the water pump housing (if so equipped).

Fig. 1—Water Pump Installed

WATER PUMP

ASSEMBLY

55x15

124—COOLING SYSTEM

CONNECTOR

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENDING UNIT

THERMOSTAT

GASK

COVER PLATE

SCREW

HOUSING

BEARING LOCK SPRING

WATER THROWER WASHER

SHAFT AND BEARING

SEAL ASSEMBLY

RETAINING WASHER

FAN PULLEY HUB

55x16

Fig. 2 - Water Pump (Exploded View)

(7) Remove screws which hold the water pump housing to cylinder head and block. (Remove compressor bracket screws from the water pump housing if so equipped.) Remove the water pump housing.

b. Disassembly of Water Pump (Removed)

Refer to Figure 2 and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the bearing lock spring.

(-2) Remove the pump cover plate screws and washers; remove plate and gasket.

(3) Position water pump in suitable fixture impeller side up. Use a rod smaller in diameter than the bearing shaft to press out

(downward) the bearing and shaft assembly.

CAUTION

Bearing and shaft assembly can be removed only in the direction described. If an attempt is made to remove shaft in opposite direction, damage to water pump housing will result.

(4) Lift out impeller. Remove lock ring from impeller and remove retaining washer and seal assembly from impeller.

(5) Drive out the fan pulley hub pin and remove hub from shaft with puller tool C-412.

(6) Clean parts in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air.

c. Inspection

(1) Inspect pump shaft bore in housing for proper fit, burrs, and scoring.

(2) Inspect pump shaft for proper fit in impeller and for scoring.

(3) Inspect condition of water thrower.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

(4) Inspect pump housing machined faces for scoring and burrs.

d. Assembly

Refer to Figure 2 and proceed as follows:

NOTE

Seal and seal washer should be replaced whenever the water pump is disassembled. It is advisable to replace the bearing and shaft assembly, since damage to the bearing usually results during the removal of the assembly.

(1) Assemble the fan pulley hub to pump shaft, line up hub pin hole and press hub on shaft.

Insert pin and peen over both ends of pin.

NOTE

The hub and impeller must fit tightly on the shaft. A hub that has been used previously usually will not fit tight enough. Replace parts, as necessary, to insure a proper fit.

(2) If replacement is necessary, install new water thrower on pump shaft.

(3) Install seal assembly in impeller and install lock ring.

(4) Place impeller in housing. Support pump housing in suitable fixture (impeller side down) and press shaft into impeller with

Tool C-3468, as shown in Figure 3.

(5) Install a new gasket on pump housing cover plate. Position cover plate in place on hous-

PRESS

SHAFT A N D BEARING

ASSEMBLY

TOOL

WATER PUMP H O U S I N G

55x704

Fig. 3—Installing Pump Shaft and Bearing Assembly

COOLING SYSTEM—125

ing and replace the attaching screws and washers.

NOTE

Be sure to use the special sealing washers when installing cover plate.

(6) Install bearing lock spring.

2. INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP

TO ENGINE (See Fig. 1)

(1) Using a new pump housing gasket, install the water pump on the engine.

(2) Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install fan, pulley, fan belts and fan shroud.

(4) Refill the cooling system. Run engine and check for leaks.

3. RADIATOR (ALL MODELS)

Only clean, soft water should be used in the radiator and the cooling system of the engine. Hard water will form a scale, not only in the radiator core, but in the engine block and cylinder heads as well. This scale, or lime deposit, causes hot spots within the engine and will plug the small passages of the radiator core. Dirty water will close the tubes in the core and restrict coolant flow and, in extreme cases, collect in the engine and cause overheating and eventual engine failure.

a. Cleaning the Radiator

The following procedure is recommended to assure maximum efficiency from cooling systems in need of cleaning.

(1) Drain the coolant from the system by opening all three drain cocks. (One at the bottom of the radiator and one on each side of the cylinder block.) After draining close all the drain cocks.

(2) Refill the cooling system with fresh water and add the contents of one can (No. 1, top compartment) of MOPAR Cooling System

Cleaner.

CAUTION

Handle cleaner with care. It will burn the skin, clothing, and car finish. Wash hands promptly if contacted by the cleaner; rinse clothing or painted surface with water if the cleaner is spilled or splashed on them.

126—COOLING SYSTEM

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

(3) Install the radiator cap, and run the engine at a fast idle speed from i/ water.

ment) into radiator.

comes out clear.

PORTANT!!

to % hour, for moderate cases. (Be sure to partially cover the radiator to raise the temperature between 180 and 190 degrees F. The solution must be used hot.)

NOTE

Reverse flushing will not be necessary except in severe cases of rust and a partially blocked cooling system.

(4) Stop the engine and drain the system thoroughly, with all drain cocks open.

(5) Close drain cocks and refill with clean fresh

(6) Pour conditioner (No. 2, bottom compart-

(7) Run the engine for ten minutes, then drain the cooling system. Flush with clean water, with all the drain cocks open, until the water

(8) Close the drain cocks and refill the cooling system with clean, soft water.

(9) During the summer, use MOPAR Radiator

Rust Resistor to prevent recurrence of rust in the cooling system. THIS IS IMb. Reverse Flushing the Cooling System

(Cylinder Block)

(1) Drain radiator.

(2) Remove water hose from radiator inlet

(top).

(3) Remove thermostat housing from water pump housing and remove thermostat. Reinstall thermostat housing.

(4) Remove water hose from radiator outlet

(bottom).

(5) Attach a suitable hose or a flushing gun,

Tool C-311, to radiator inlet hose.

(6) Turn on water supply and force water through cylinder block until clean water is forced through. A pulsating flow of water will loosen sediment more quickly than a steady flow.

c. Reverse Flushing the Cooling System

(Radiator)

(7) Remove flushing gun and install on radiator outlet (bottom) and force water upward through radiator until clean water is forced through.

CAUTION

Do not apply excessive pressure, when pressureflushing the radiator, as damage may result to the radiator.

(8) Remove flushing gun and install thermostat. Connect hoses, refill cooling system with coolant. Check for leaks in system at hose connection and correct as necessary.

d. Removal of Radiator Assembly

(1) Drain cooling system.

(2) Disconnect radiator inlet and outlet hoses.

(3) Remove fan shroud.

(4) Remove nuts and cap screws holding the radiator to radiator support, and remove radiator.

4. WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE (Fig. 4)

The electric (or magnetic) water temperature gauge consists of two units, the dash unit and the sending unit. The gauge is connected to the voltage through the ignition switch.

a. Dash Unit

The dash unit has two magnetic poles. One of the windings is connected to the ignition switch and to a ground. This electromagnet exerts a steady pull to hold the gauge pointer to the left or "cold" position, whenever the ignition switch is turned on.

The other winding in the dash unit connects to a ground through the engine unit. This electromagnet exerts a steady magnetic pull on the gauge pointer toward the right or "hot" side of the gauge. The strength of this electromagnet is dependent upon the current allowed to pass through the engine unit resistor.

b. Sending Unit

The engine unit, located in the water pump housing, is equipped with a flat disc that changes re-

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

COOLING SYSTEM—127

VARIABLE FIELD

POLE SHOES

CONSTANT FIELDvi

VARIABLE RESISTANCE

BATTERY

DASH UNIT

AMMETER ENGINE UNIT

53x527

Fig. 4—Water Temperature Gauge sistance as its temperature varies. The resistance of this disc is greatest when the temperature is cold and its resistance decreases as the temperature increases. The decrease in resistance (with an increase in temperature) allows more current to flow through the electromagnet that is connected to the engine unit. The resulting increase in magnetic pull causes the gauge pointer to move to the right or "hot" side.

c. Electrical Circuit

(1) Testing

Two tests must be performed in order to test the electrical temperature gauge circuit to determine if it is in satisfactory condition. The tests are as follows:

Test 1—Disconnect the wire at sending unit and turn on the ignition switch. The gauge hand should stay against the left side stop pin.

Test 2—Ground the wire disconnected from the sending unit. Turn on the ignition switch.

The gauge hand should swing across the dial to the right side stop pin.

(2) Test Results and Corrective Measures

If the gauge hand does not stay on the left hand stop in Test 1 above, either the wire is grounded between the dash unit and the engine unit or the dash unit is defective. Test further by disconnecting the wire at the dash unit "GA" terminal and turn on the ignition switch. If the gauge hand now stays on the left hand stop pin, replace wire. But, if the gauge hand still moves, replace the dash unit.

If the gauge hand does not swing across the dial as in Test 2, there is an open circuit in the wire between the dash unit and the engine unit, the dash unit is defective, or power is not reaching the dash unit. Test further by grounding the

"GA" terminal on the dash unit and turn on the ignition switch. If the gauge hand now moves, replace the wire. If the gauge hand still does not move, connect a test lamp from the dash unit. If the test lamp does not light, test the wire between the ignition switch and the dash unit by connecting a test lamp to the "Accessory" terminal at the ignition switch and to a ground. When this is done, the test lamp should light.

If the gauge hand operates correctly as in

Tests 1 and 2, but the gauge does not indicate temperature changes correctly, either the engine unit is defective or the dash unit is not calibrated properly. Replace engine unit with one that is in good condition. If the gauge is still not accurate, replace the dash unit.

If the gauge hand is at the right hand stop pin

(maximum) at all times and Tests 1 and 2 indicate that the wiring and the dash unit are in good condition, the engine unit is defective and a new unit must be installed.

If the gauge hand will not move, the dash unit is either damaged or incorrectly installed. Install unit correctly or replace, as necessary.

5. THERMOSTAT (Fig. 5)

A choke-type thermostat is used to control cool-

128—COOLING SYSTEM

TOP

Fig. 5—Thermostat (Choke Type)

52 x 329 ant temperatures by restricting or permitting the flow of coolant from the cylinder head to the radiator. This choke-type thermostat starts to open at 159 to 165 degrees F. and is fully open at

190 degrees F. (All "After Cars" are equipped with a thermostat which starts to open at temperatures of 155 to 160 degrees F.)

6. TESTING THERMOSTAT

To test the thermostat for correct opening, gently force the poppet open, insert a piece of thin string or thread into the opening and allow the poppet to close. Suspend the thermostat in a pail of water containing a thermometer. Heat the water and stir gently with thermometer. At the moment the thermostat drops off the string or thread the thermometer should read from 159 to

165 degrees F. or 155 to 160 degrees F. depending on thermostat opening temperature. Heating the water to 190 degrees F. should open the thermostat fully. The temperature at which the thermostat opens is very important and should be tested whenever the cooling system is checked.

When installing the thermostat, be sure the notation "TOP" is facing the outlet tube.

NOTE

There are no repairs or adjustments to be made on the thermostat. Replace the unit if it fails to operate properly.

7. RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP

The radiators, in all models, are equipped with

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL a pressure vent type radiator filler cap, as shown in Figure 6.

Under normal operating conditions, pressure is not built up in the system. However, if an increased operating temperature develops, due to heavy traffic, extremely hot weather, hill climbing, high-speed driving, etc.; the relief valve at the bottom of the cap closes, seating against the gasket. This action pressurizes the system up to approximately 7 psi (14 psi with air conditioning) , at which time the valve and seat rise and allow the build-up of pressure to escape through the overflow tube.

CAUTION

When removing the pressure cap, turn the cap counter-clockwise to the stop, permitting any built-up pressure to be released through the overflow tube. This will prevent possible personal injury due to hot water spraying out under pressure.

To remove the cap after pressure has been released, press down and continue to turn cap counter-clockwise until the cap is released.

8. COOLING SYSTEM PROTECTORS a. Rust Resistor

When MOPAR Rust Resistor is added to the water in the cooling system, it helps to prevent the formation of scale and rust. It is also a safeguard against electrolytic corrosion, which takes place where dissimilar metals are connected together, such as in the radiator core.

GASKET r - VALVE

OVERFLOW

TUBE

RADIATOR FILLER

OPENING

5 0 x 1 0 0

Fig. 6—Radiator Pressure Cap

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL b. Anti-Freeze Solutions

MOPAR Anti-Freeze is recommended for use in the cooling system when the temperature is likely to be below 32° F. Other anti-freeze solutions that are suitable, when suitable inhibitors are added, are denatured alcohol, methanol, synthetic wood alcohol, and ethylene glycol.

NOTE

Mixing of various brands of anti-freeze is not recommended because of the possibility of separation of inhibitors and, also because of the difficulty in determining the freezing point.

Alcohol anti-freeze solutions are subject to evaporation. When these liquids are used, the solution should be tested at regular intervals during the cold months.

Alcohol base liquids, if spilled on the vehicle, should be washed off immediately with a generous amount of water to prevent damage to the finish.

It is recommended that the entire cooling system be flushed before installing anti-freeze.

COOLING SYSTEM—129

Be sure no leaks occur at hose connections; if necessary, replace these parts to obtain tight connections. If there are leaks in the system, they should be stopped.

NOTE

Coolant should be filled to iy^ inches below the bottom of the filler neck to allow for expansion.

CAUTION

Anti-freeze solutions containing sodium chloride (common salt), calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, or any inorganic salt, should never be used as an anti-freeze. Water-soluable organic products such as sugar, honey, glucose, or any organic crystalline compounds are not recommended. Mineral oils, such as kerosene or engine oil, may damage rubber parts and therefore prove harmful.

The freezing point of an anti-freeze solution may be determined by the use of a Radiator

Solution Tester. The solution should be tested at the temperature for which the tester is calibrated.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

9. EXTERNAL LEAKAGE

Possible Causes: a. Loose hose clamps.

b. Defective rubber hose.

c. Broken radiator seams.

d. Loose core hole plugs.

e. Damaged gaskets.

f. Warped cylinder head.

g. Cracked cylinder head.

h. Cracked cylinder block.

i. Cracked thermostat housing (water outlet elbow).

j . Leak at heater connections.

k. Leak at water temperature sending unit.

1. Leak at exhaust manifold studs (long).

m. Leak at water pump attaching bolt holes.

Remedies: a. Tighten hose clamps as required to stop leaking. Replace if necessary.

b.. Replace defective hose as needed.

c. Remove radiator and solder seams. Test radiator before installation.

d. Remove leaking plug. Clean out hole and install new plug.

130—COOLING SYSTEM

e. Check for leaks at water pump, cylinder head, and thermostat housing (water outlet elbow). Replace gaskets as required.

f. Replace cylinder head and gasket. Draw down bolts to 70 foot pounds torque. Tighten in sequence, as illustrated in the Engine Section.

g. Replace cylinder head and tighten. (See f. above).

h. Replace cylinder block, as described in

Engine Section.

i. Replace thermostat housing and gasket.

j . Tighten heater connections, as required.

k. Tighten or replace sending unit.

1. Remove studs and coat with a suitable sealing compound. Reinstall and check for leaks.

m. Apply a suitable sealer to the bolts and tighten.

10. INTERNAL LEAKAGE

Possible Causes: a. Warped cylinder head.

b. Blown cylinder head gasket.

c. Cracked cylinder wall.

d. Loose cylinder head bolts.

e. Cracked valve port.

f. Sand holes or porous condition.

g. Porous condition around distributor hole in cylinder block.

Remedies: a. Replace cylinder head and gasket. Tighten bolts evenly to 70 foot pounds torque. Tighten in sequence as illustrated in the Engine Section.

b. Replace gasket; tighten bolts, as described in (a) above.

c. Replace cylinder block, as described in Engine Section.

d. Tighten cylinder head bolts to 70 foot pounds torque. Tighten in sequence as illustrated in Engine Section.

e. Weld crack in valve port or replace cylinder head, as described in Engine Section.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL f. Weld sand holes or replace cylinder blocks, as outlined in Engine Section.

g. A porous condition in the cylinder block may be corrected by the use of a good sealing compound. It is suggested that the manufacturer's instructions be followed for the best results.

11. OVERFLOW LOSS

Possible Causes: a. Refer to causes listed in Paragraph 12.

b. Boiling (overheating).

c. Leak in cylinder head gasket.

d. Restricted radiator.

e. Overfilling.

Remedies: a. Refer to causes listed in Paragraph 12.

b. Check cooling system, reverse flush if necessary.

c. Replace cylinder head gasket. If leak was internal, check oil for contamination. Drain, flush, and refill to correct level.

d. Reverse flush radiator.

e. Fill radiator to approximately 1% inches below filler neck. Excess water is forced out of the overflow tube as a result of expansion and this may give the impression that the cooling system has developed a leak.

12. POOR CIRCULATION

Possible Causes: a. Restricted radiator core.

b. Restricted water jacket.

c. Low coolant level.

d. Collapsed radiator hose.

e. Water pump impeller loose on shaft.

f. Loose adjustment of fan belt.

g. Scale in cylinder block.

Remedies: a. Drain and reverse flush radiator.

b. Drain system. Disconnect radiator hoses and reverse flush cylinder block.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

COOLING SYSTEM—131

c. Refill radiator to approximately 1*4 inches below filler neck.

d. Replace radiator hose; check clamps for fatigue and replace as required.

e. Remove and recondition water pump.

f. Tighten fan belt after checking the driving surfaces. If the belt is frayed, cracked, or greasy on the sides or bottom, replace belt and adjust for approximately y<> inch slack (when pushed from a straight line) midway between the fan and fan drive pulley.

g. Use MOPAR Cooling System Cleaner for correction of this condition. After correction, use

MOPAR Rust Resistor to prevent recurrence.

13. CORROSION

Possible Causes: a. Impurities in water.

b. Lack of rust inhibitor.

c. Improper draining and service.

d. Air leaks in system.

Remedies: a. Drain and flush radiator and cylinder block until clean. Refill system with clean water and add MOPAR Rust Resistor. (Rust Resistor contains a special water softener, making it effective when hard water is used in the cooling system.) b. Drain and flush radiator and cylinder block until clean. Refill system with clean water and add MOPAR Rust Resistor.

c. Be sure, in all draining operations, that the drain cock in the cylinder block is opened. In severe cases, it is recommended that the drain cock be removed in order to allow larger particles of sediment to be washed out.

d. Tighten all hose connections, check for possible leaks in cylinder head gasket. Check water level in system. If necessary, fill to required level.

14. OVERHEATING

Possible Causes: a. All causes listed in Paragraph 12.

b. Excessive sludge in crankcase of engine.

c. Air passages of radiator core plugged.

d. Obstruction in front of radiator.

Remedies: a. Refer to remedies listed in Paragraph 12.

b. Drain lubricating oil from engine. Refill to required level with light flushing oil, and operate engine at slow speed for approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and refill case with proper grade of oil. In severe cases, remove oil pan and clean inside of block by hand.

c. Use air pressure on reverse side of radiator core and clean out passages thoroughly.

d. Remove any obstruction that blocks air entrance to the radiator.

15. FACTORS WHICH MAY CAUSE HIGHER

THAN NORMAL ENGINE OPERATING

TEMPERATURE

Possible Causes: a. Incorrect ignition timing.

b. Incorrect valve timing.

c. Low oil level.

d. Tight engine.

e. Defective heat control valve.

f. Clogged or defective muffler or exhaust pipes.

g. Dragging brakes.

h. Overloading vehicle.

i. Driving in heavy sand or mud.

j . Engine laboring on grades.

k. Excessive engine idling.

1. Loose fan belt.

Remedies: a. Check ignition timing, as described in Electrical Section.

b. Check valve timing, as described in Engine

Section.

c. Check condition of oil. If necessary, drain and refill to required level.

d. Use extreme care during "break-in" of a tight engine. Drive at moderate speeds—not too slow. Check oil and water levels often, adding oil or water as required.

132—COOLING SYSTEM

e. Replace heat control valve spring. Check valve stop for wear or damage. Replace stop if necessary.

f. Check exhaust system for restriction, replace parts as required.

g. Refer to the Brake Section for correction of this condition.

h. Avoid excessive weight in or on car.

i. Avoid driving in heavy mud or sand whenever possible.

j . To avoid engine lugging or laboring on grades, shift to the next lowest gear.

k. Avoid excessive idling over prolonged periods.

CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL

1. Tighten fan belt.

16. OVERCOOLING

Possible Causes: a. Defective thermostat b. Defective temperature gauge.

Remedies: a. Check thermostat for operation, as outlined in Paragraph 6. Replace if necessary.

b. Check water temperature gauge, as described in Paragraph 4.

Section VI

SYSTEM

NUMBER

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

DATE SUBJECT CHANGES

134—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

STARTING MOTOR

(ALL MODELS)

STARTING MOTOR

C-67 C-68,C-69

Up to

MC1-6121

After

MCL-6304

C-70

MDC-6301

Model MCL-6304

Voltage 6

ARMATURE

End Play 005 to .030"

Adjustment Thrust Washer

Runout

(Maximum) .003"

BRUSHES

Number Usecl 4

Spring Tension 42 to 53 ounces

Fluid Coils 4

.005 to .030"

Thrust Washer

.003"

.005 to .030"

Thrust Washer

.003"

42 to 53 ounces

C-67, C-68, C-69 C-70

DRIVE

Type Clutch

Pinion to Drive Stop Collar Clearance 080 to .109"

Adjustment Solenoid Plunger

Pinion Teeth 9

Ring Gear Teeth 146

FREE RUNNING TEST

Model MCL

Voltage 6

Amperage Draw 50 to 65

Minimum Speed RPM 5300

STALL TORQUE TEST

Model MCL

Torque (Foot-Pounds) 8.0

Voltage 2.0

Amperage Draw 410

Clutch

.080 to .109"

Solenoid Plunger

146

50 to 55

4000

8.5

4.0

250

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—135

GENERATOR

C-68 C-67 C-67, C-68 C-69, C-70

(Without

Power

Steering)

(With

Power

Steering)

(Without

Power

Steering)

(With

Power

Steering)

*(With

Car

Cooling)

(With and Without

Power Steering,

Car Cooling

Model

Type

Rotation

Bearing—Drive End

Commutator End..

Armature End Play

GGW-6001

6-Volt

Shunt

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Absorbent

Bronze

Bushing

.003 to

.010"

Commutator

Runout

Ground Polarity . . .

No. of Brushes . . . .

Brush Spring

Tension

.0005"

Positive

Field Coil Draw . ..

Motoring Draw . . .

Hot Output-Volts.

Maximum Amps. . .

Max. R.P.M

35 to 53 ozs.

1.7 to 1.8

amps, at

6-Volts

5.0 to 5.5

amps, at

6-Volts

.8.0

2450

GGW-6016

6-Volt

Shunt

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Ball

Bearing

.003 to

.010"

.0005"

Positive

35 to 53 ozs.

1.7 to 1.8

amps, at

6-Volts

5.0 to 5.5

amps, at

6-Volts

8.0

2450

GGW-6001

6-Volt

Shunt

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Absorbent

Bronze

Bushing

.003 to

.010"

GGW-6008

6-Volt

Shunt

GGW-6017

6-Volt

Shunt

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Ball

Bearing

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Ball

Bearing

.003 to

.010"

.003 to

.010"

.0005"

Positive

35 to 53 ozs.

1.7 to 1.8

amps, at

6-Volts

5.0 to 5.5

amps, at

6-Volts

8.0

2450

.0005"

Positive

35 to 53 ozs.

1.7 to 1.8

amps, at

6-Volts

5.0 to 5.5

amps, at

6-Volts

8.0

2450

.0005"

Positive

35 to 53 ozs.

1.7 to 1.8

amps, at

6-Volts

5.0 to 5.5

amps, at

6-Volts

8.0

2450

GGU-6013

^ ^ ^ ^ ^-^ X^ V^ •*. \J

6-Volt

Shunt

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Ball

Bearing

GHM-6003

12-Volt

Shunt

Wound

Clockwise

Ball

Bearing

Ball

Bearing

.003 to

.010"

.0005"

Positive

35 to 53 ozs.

1.7 to 1.8

amps, at

6-Volts

5.5 to 6.5

amps, at

6-Volts

8.0

1840

.003 to

.010"

.0005"

Positive

35 to 53 ozs.

.8 to .93

amps, at

12-Volts

3.0 to 3.5

amps, at

12-Volts

1550

'Without Power Steering

CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR

C-67, C-68

••Model VBE-6001A

Rated Capacity

Volts 6

Amps 45 to 57

Ground Polarity Positive

Value of Resistors (Ohms)

Number 38 34.5 to 42

Number 7 6.5 to 8.0

Number 60

Number 15 . . . .

Number 135

C-69

VAV-6001B

50 to 62

Positive

. . . .

57 to 70

14 to 17.1

C-70

VRX-6003B

25 to 38

Positive

34.5 to 42

122 to 149

136—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR (Contd.)

C-67, C-68 C-69 C-70

Circuit Breaker

Resistance of Windings 29.8 to 33

Armature Air Gap 031 to .034"

No. of Coils in Armature Spring 10%

Contact Point Gap Minimum .015"

Points Close at (Volts) 6.3 to 6.8

Points Open at (Volts) 4.1 to 4.8

Voltage Regulator

Resistance of Winding (Ohms) 10.8 to 12

Armature Air Gap 048 to .052"

No. of Coils in Armature Spring 14!/2

Contact Point Gap .012"

Operating Voltage (At 70° F.) * 7.1 to 7.4

Current Regulator

Armature Air Gap 048 to .052"

No. of Coils in Armature Spring 14%

Contact Point Gap .012"

Operating Amperage (At 70° F . ) . . . . 43 to 47

*Test at 10 amp. output for 15 minutes and after 15 minutes operation at full output

29.8 to 33

031 to .034"

10%

.015"

6.3 to 6.8

4.1 to 4.8

10.8 to 12

048 to .052"

14i/

.012"

7.1 to 7.4

.048 to .052"

14%

.012"

48 to 52

102-126

.031 to .034"

10%

.015"

13 to 13.75

8.2 to 9.3

43.7 to 49.3

.048 to .052"

14%

.012"

14.2 to 14.8

.048 to .052"

14l/

.012"

23 to 27

••Regulator VBF-6001A used with Gen. GGJ-6004 as special equipment—refer to D-15085 Shop

Manual for specifications.

IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR

C-67

Model IAZ 4001D (Up to)

IAZ 4001E (After)

Cam Angle (Dwell) 26° to 28°

(One Set of Points)

32° to 36°

(Total Dwell)

Gap .015 to .018"

Breaker Arm Tension 17 to 20 ozs.

Ignition Timing B.T.D.C.

Degrees of Crankshaft Travel 6°

Timing Mark Location Vibration Damper

Condenser Capacity .25 to .28 mfd.

Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Rotation Clockwise

Drive Camshaft

Bushings 2—Absorbent Bronze

C-68, C-69, C-70

IAZ 4001E (Up to)

IAZ 4001F (After)

26° to 28°

(One Set of Points)

32° to 36°

(Total Dwell)

.015 to .018"

17 to 20 ozs.

B.T.D.C.

6°

Vibration Damper

.25 to .28 mfd.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Clockwise

Camshaft

2—Absorbent Bronze

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—137

IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR (Contd.)

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70

Automatic Advance Curve

Distributor Speed (RPM and Degrees) IAZ 4001D (Up to)

300-400 RPM—0°

400 RPM—0° to 7°

550 RPM—5.5° to 7.5°

2100 RPM—16° to 18°

IAZ 4001E (After)

300-400 RPM—0°

400 RPM—0° to 4°

550 RPM—3.7° to 5.5°

2550 RPM—13° to 15°

Vacuum Advance Curve

Distributor Vacuum in Inches of Mercury

— 5 1 / / ' to 61/2" 1°

10" 5° to 6.75°

17" 10i/

° to 12i/

° Max.

IAZ 4001E (Up to)

300-400 RPM—0°

400 RPM—0° to 7°

550 RPM—3.7° to 5.5°

2000 RPM—13° to 15°

IAZ 4001F (After)

300-400 RPM—0°

400 RPM—0° to 4°

550 RPM—3.7° to 5.5°

1725 RPM—11° to 13°

IOV2

5° to 6.75°

to 12i/

° Max.

SPARK PLUGS AND COIL

C-67 C-68, C-69

Spark Plugs

Type Resistor 4S-165

Size 14 mm.

Gap .035"

Coil

Model CAC-4001

Amperage Draw—

Engine Idling 2.25 amps.

Engine Stopped 5.0 amps.

C-70

Resistor 4GS-175 Resistor 4GS-175

14 mm.

.035"

14 mm.

.035"

CAC-4001 CAE-4001

2.25 amps.

5.0 amps.

1.8 amps.

3.0 amps.

HORNS

C-67, C-68 C-69 C-70

Style (Sea Shell, Airtone,

Trumpet) Air Tone Air Tone Air Tone

Type Electric Electric Electric

Number Used 2—Air Tone 3 (1 Trumpet, 3 (1 Trumpet,

2 Air Tone) 2 Air Tone)

Individual Amp. Draw . .. . . 15 Amps, per Horn at 15 Amps, per Horn at 9 Amps, per Horn at

6 to 6.2 Volts 6 to 6.2 Volts 12.0 Volts

Tone Pitch Adjustable Adjustable Adjustable

Location , Behind Radiator Grille Behind Radiator Grille Behind Radiator Grille

138—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

LIGHTING SYSTEM

Number

Required

C.P. or Watts

6-Volts 12-Volts

Mazda No. Chrysler Part No.

6-Volts 12-Volts 6-Volts 12-Volts

Headlights (Seal Beams) 2

Headlights Upper Beam

Indicator Light 1

*Tail Light 2

*Rear Turn Signal Light 2

Glove Box Light 1

Instrument Lights 3

Rear License Plate Light... 1

Map Light—Center 1

Ignition Switch Light 1

Parking Light and Front

Turn Signal 2

•Stop Light 2

Turn Signal Indicator Light. 2

Back-up Light 2

Dome Light 1

Dome Light 2

45-35

21-3

50-40

32-4

1.5

32-4

1.5

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

4030

1154

210

1154

1129

210

4430

1034

1004

1034

1141

1004

854750 1567159

125588

145416

125588

142303

127934

151567

127934

142450

115273 131282

145416

125588

142308

151559

151567

127934

142456

151578

*One bulb serves all three functions.

Circuit

CIRCUIT PROTECTORS

Type

Rated Capacity

6-Volts 12-Volts

Location

Lighting System Circuit Breaker

Clock Fuse

Windshield Wiper Circuit Breaker

Radio Fuse

Rear Seat Cigar Lighter C-B

Top and Lift Motor C-B

Accessory Circuits (Dome Lamp,

Stop Lamp, Map Lamp, Glove

Box Lamp) C-B

Air Cond. Blower Motor C-B

Window Lift Motor C-B

Seat Adj. Motor C-B

1-27 Amps.

1-10 Amps.

3 Amps.

10 Amps.

14 Amps.

10 Amps.

1-30

2-30

1-30

1-27 Amps.

1-10 Amps.

3 Amps.

6 Amps.

9 Amps.

In Switch

Clock Lead Wire

On Switch

Behind Inst. Panel

Left Front Kick Pad

On Switch

10 Amps.

1-15

2-15

1-15

Inc. H. L. Sw.

O n Switch

Left Front Kick Pad

Under Seat

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—139

ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER

6-Volts

Part No 1605599

Rated Volts 6

Resistor (Ohms) 0-4.25

Field Draw

Volts 6.0

No Load Test

Volts 6.0

Amperage Draw At—High Speed 3.5 at 76 R.P.M.

—Low Speed 5.5 at 32 R.P.M.

12-Volts

1627382

0-17

12.0

1.8 at 76 R.P.M.

2.8 at 32 R.P.M.

BATTERY

C-67 C-68 C-69 C-70

Model HW-2-120 2H-135 2H-135 12-H65R

Location Under Hood in Left Fender Shield

Voltage 6 6 6 12

Number of Plates 17 19 19 13

Capacity (Amp-Hours) 120 135 135 65

Terminal Ground Positive Positive Positive Negative

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Battery Hold Down Bolts 3 Foot-Pounds (Max.)

CLAMP

BOOT CLAMP

COMMUTATOR END HEAD

COVER BAND

LOCKWASHERS

WASHER

INSULATING BUSHING

TERMINAL STUD

INSULATING WASHERS

INSULATION

FIELD COILS

LOCKWASHERS

YOKE BOOT

SOLENOID SWITCH

SCREW

THRUST WASHER

BRUSH SPRINGS

BEARING

CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

Fig. 1—Starting Motor (Typical for C-67, C-68, C-69 f

C-70)

YOKE PIN

PINION HOUSING

5 2 x 6 2 7 A

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—141

Section VI

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

STARTING MOTOR

The starting motor is of the conventional fourpole, four-brush, magnetic shift type (Fig. 1) with a sliding gear and over-running clutch. It is operated through a solenoid, as described below.

1. STARTING MOTOR SOLENOID

The starting motor solenoid (Fig. 2) is controlled by turning the ignition key to the extreme right.

As the key is turned, current flows from the ignition and starter switch through the neutralizer safety switch (cars equipped with PowerFlite), the solenoid relay coil and generator armature to ground.

This causes the relay armature to close the contact points. Current then flows from the battery connections at the solenoid through the relay points and coils of the solenoid. The solenoid winding is made up of two coils. One coil is connected from the relay points to the starter side of the solenoid starter switch. The other coil is connected from the same side of the relay points to ground. When the relay points are first closed, current flows through both coils, which immediately pull in the solenoid plunger and shift lever, engaging the pinion of the starting motor with the flywheel. At the end of plunger travel, the starter switch disc is closed and the motor cranks the engine.

As the starter switch disc is closed, one coil of the solenoid is shorted out (coil from battery lead post to starter side of the solenoid switch).

The second coil remains in the circuit with sufficient current to hold the pinion in engagement with the flywheel, while the engine is being cranked. As soon as pressure on the switch key is released, the relay contacts open, breaking the solenoid circuit and allowing the return spring in the solenoid to disengage the pinion. The solenoid circuit is also interrupted when the generator speed increases on starting of the engine, due to voltage build-up which opposes the flow of current from the ignition and starter switch.

2. REMOVAL OF STARTING MOTOR

To remove starting motor, disconnect terminals from binding post and battery terminal, or disconnect it at battery. Remove bolts from starter to flywheel housing and draw out starting motor assembly.

3. DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF

STARTING MOTOR (REMOVED) (FIG. 1) a. Disassembly

The armature may be removed after lifting the brushes out of their holders and removing the assembly bolts from the frame and pinion housing.

b. Removal and Installation oi Clutch Assembly

To remove the clutch assembly from armature shaft, first remove the washer and then the snap ring and stop. Slide the clutch assembly from armature shaft. To install the clutch assembly, slide the assembly into position on the armature shaft and install the stop, the snap ring and the washer.

c. Assembly

The armature shaft end-play should be .005 to

.030 inch. This end-play is controlled by spacers on the shaft between the leather washer and the commutator end head.

4. ADJUSTING PINION CLEARANCE

It is essential that the relationship between the over-running clutch drive (or pinion) and the solenoid switch be maintained within proper limits. This pinion clearance adjustment can be accurately set only after the starting motor is removed from the car. Checking the pinion clearance should be included in the bench test. This operation can best be accomplished by using the battery current to hold the plunger in the engaged position, while adjusting the plunger stud

142—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM linkage. The strap connecting the solenoid to the starter terminal should be removed so that the pinion will not spin. Remove the connector from the solenoid to the motor. Connect a jumper wire from the solenoid motor terminal to ground. Connect a jumper wire from the solenoid relay terminal to the negative terminal post of a battery.

Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the starter frame.

NOTE

Due to removing the connector it will be necessary to assist the solenoid by pushing on the plunger by hand to shift the pinion. Then, remove the hand pressure while measuring clearance.

The shift lever adjusting link screw can now be adjusted so that there will be .080 to .109

inch clearance between the end of the pinion and the stop collar.

Do not hold the pinion in the engaged position by pushing on the shift lever while making this adjustment. The play, between the pin in the

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL adjusting stud link and the slotted hole in the lever, is correct only when the solenoid is pulling on the adjusting stud link.

With the contact points closed, the air gap between the armature and core should be .012

to .020 inch. This can be adjusted by raising or lowering the stationary contact. Contact points close at 1.5 to 3.0 volts and open at 0.5 volts min.

The contact point opening of the solenoid relay should be .020 to .040 inch and is adjusted by bending the armature stop.

5. REPLACING BRUSHES AND REDUCING

SPRING TENSION

Replace brushes if they are worn more than half their original length, scored or oil soaked. To remove, unsolder and unclinch the brush leads from the field coil connector loops and remove leads and brushes. When inserting the lead or pigtail of the new brush, it will be necessary to open up the field coil connector loop slightly. Be sure the pigtail is inserted the full depth of the loop. Then, it should be clinched to hold the pig-

BASE MOUNTING LOCKWASHER

\ STUD—COVER MOUNTING

SWITCH TERMINAL PLAIN WASHER

SWITCH TERMINAL NUT

AND LOCKWASHER

TERMINAL POST—SWITCH

SWITCH FELT WASHER

TERMINAL—UPPER

CLAMP

RUBBER CAP

CAP

WASHER

LINK

SCREW

CONTACT SPRING

SWITCH BRACKET ASSY

SWITCH COVER

COVER M O U N T I N G

TERMINAL P O S T - S H O R T

SCREW A N D

LOCKWASHER

BATTERY TERMINAL NUT

BASE M O U N T I N G SCREW

A N D LOCKWASHER

SWITCH BASE

SWITCH COVER GASKET

SPRING-RETURN

TERMINAL POST—LONG

INSULATING WASHER

BRACKET

BATTERY TERMINAL NUT A N D LOCKWASHER

TERMINAL WASHER

TERMINAL INSULATOR

TERMINAL LOWER

PLUNGER ASSY

SPACER

Fig. 2—Starting Motor Solenoid

SPRING

PLUG

M O V I N G

CORE

CLAMP

SCREW

AND

LOCKWASHER

SOLENOID ASSY

5 1 x 3 7 2

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL tail securely before resoldering with resin core solder. A good soldering job must be done to ensure full efficiency.

To test brush spring tension, insert a piece of medium weight paper between brush and commutator and attach a spring scale to brush arm.

Pull on the scale (at right angles to the arm) and note the scale reading at the instant the paper is free. If the reading is not within specified limits, replace spring.

6. TESTING STARTING MOTOR (ASSEMBLED)

The starting motor should first be checked to see that the free running voltage and current are within the limits shown in the Data and

Specifications Chart.

a. Testing for Free Running (6-Volt)

Remove starting motor, place on test bench and connect the starter to a fully-charged 6-volt battery, with a resistor in parallel. Adjust the resistor to 5.5 volts across the battery, running the motor (if new brushes were installed) for approximately two minutes to allow the brushes to seat. Cool motor before testing.

The ammeter should show a current draw of

65 amps., while the starter is running free. If the amperage is too high, check the bushing alignment and end play to make sure there is no binding or interference.

If a test bench is not available, connect the starter to a 6-volt battery. If the armature revolves smoothly at a satisfactory speed, the motor should crank the engine.

NOTE

The V12 volt starters are tested in the same manner except for the voltage and current values.

Refer to Data and Specifications.

b. Testing for Stall Torque

Connect the starter to the test bench and mount torque arm and spring scale on the starting motor. Close the test bench switch and adjust the resistor so that the specified voltage is shown on the voltmeter. At 8 foot-pounds torque, the ammeter reading should be 410 amps., and the voltmeter reading should be 2.0 volts.

If the test results are not as specified above, recondition or replace the unit as necessary.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—143

TOUCH ONE

PROD TO

COMMUTATOR

SEGMENTS

ARMATURE

SHAFT A N D

OTHER PROD

TO COMMUTATOR

SEGMENTS—

TEST PROD

IF TEST LAMP

LIGHTS THE

ARMATURE IS

GROUNDED

STARTER

ARMATURE

TEST PROD

ARMATURE

SHAFT

GROWLER

SWITCH-OFF

TEST LAMP

SWITCH-ON

32x64

Fig. 3—Testing Starting Motor Armature for Ground

7. TESTING STARTING MOTOR

(DISASSEMBLED) a. Testing Armature for Short Circuit

Place the armature in a growler and hold a strip of steel, or piece of hack saw blade, on the core, parallel to the grooves. Turn on the growler and revolve the armature slowly. If the metal strip becomes magnetized or vibrates, the armature is shorted. If it is shorted at an accessible point, it should be repaired. Otherwise, a new armature should be installed.

b. Testing Armature for Ground

With a 110 volt test light, touch one test prod to a commutator segment and the other test prod to the armature shaft, as shown in

Figure 3.

CAUTION

Do not touch the brush surfaces of the commutator or the bearing surface of the shaft An arc from the circuit would damage the contacting surfaces.

If the test lamp lights, the armature is grounded. Replace the armature.

c. Reconditioning Armature

The armature commutator should be turned down in a lathe (if the mica is high or the commutator out-of-round) or cleaned (if covered with an oil film or dirt). Only sufficient material should be removed to correct the difficulty. Use

144—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

52x290

Fig. 4—Testing for Ground

00 sandpaper to finish the commutator smoothly.

Undercut the mica to a depth of %

inch and the full width of the groove.

If the armature shaft bearing surfaces are scored or worn, replace the armature. Make sure the armature windings are tight in the armature slots and soldered properly to the commutator segments. If soldering is necessary, be sure the solder does not short circuit the segments.

d. Testing Field Coils for Open Circuit

To determine if one of the four coils is faulty, disconnect one end of the equalizer jumper between the field coils. Test between the starting motor terminal and each field coil with test light.

If light does not light, the coil being tested is open and should be replaced.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

INSULATED

BRUSH HOLDERS

BUSHING

TEST PROD

J O U C H ONE

PROD TO

INSULATED

BRUSH HOLDER

A N D OTHER

PROD TO

END P L A T E -

IF TEST LAMP

LIGHTS THE

BRUSH HOLDER

IS GROUNDED

STARTER

END PLATE

GROWLER

SWITCH-OFF

TEST LAMP

SWITCH-ON

GROWLER 3 2 x 6 3

Fig. 5—Testing Brush Holder for Ground e. Testing Field Coils for Ground

Test between the insulated brushes and the frame, as shown in Figure 4. If the test lamp lights, the coils are grounded. If the ground is accessible, repair coil. Otherwise, replace coil.

f. Testing Brush Holders for Ground

Inspect the brush holders for wear or damage.

Test insulated holders with a test lamp to see if they are grounded (Fig. 5). Replace the commutator end plate assembly, if brush holders are grounded. Check grounded brush holders to see if they are tight.

Install head on armature and install a brush in one of the holders. Inspect to see that brush slides freely and that it is parallel with the commutator segments. Repeat this inspection on all brush holders.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

8. STARTER FAILS TO OPERATE

Possible Causes: a. Weak battery.

b. Loose battery cables.

c. Dead battery cell.

d. Defective solenoid or solenoid switch.

e. Defective starter windings.

f. Corrosion at battery posts.

g. Faulty relay.

h. Faulty wiring.

Remedies: a. Test specific gravity of battery and check for dead cell. Replace or recharge battery as necessarv.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Clean battery posts and cable clamps. For good contact, tighten securely.

c. Replace defective battery. Check voltage regulator and generator output.

d. Replace starter and ignition switch and check starting motor solenoid for operation.

Check soldered connections of solenoid windings.

e. Remove and test starting motor. Replace parts, or the complete unit, as required.

f. Remove battery cables and clean terminals and clamps. Check clamps for corrosion and replace as necessary. Coat clamps with vaseline or cup grease to retard corrosion, replace and tighten securely.

g. Inspect all wiring. Check control wiring by touching a jumper lead from relay "Bat" to

"Ign" terminals.

h. Check relay by touching heavy jumper lead from relay "Bat" to "Sol" terminals.

9. STARTER FAILS AND LIGHTS DIM

Possible Causes: a. Weak battery.

b. Dead battery cell.

c. Corroded battery terminals.

d. Internal ground in windings.

Remedies: a. Test specific gravity of battery and check for dead cell. Replace or recharge battery as necessary.

b. Replace defective battery. Check voltage regulator and generator output to determine cause of battery failure.

c. Remove battery terminals and clean termi-

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—145 nals and clamps. Check clamps for corrosion and replace as necessary. Coat with vaseline or cup grease to retard corrosion, install and tighten securely.

d. Remove starting motor and test. Replace parts, or complete unit as required to correct condition.

10. STARTER TURNS BUT DOES NOT ENGAGE

Possible Causes: a. Defective starter clutch (slipping).

b. Broken teeth on flywheel ring gear.

c. Defective switch on yoke linkage.

Remedies: a. Remove starting motor and install new pinion and clutch assembly. Check shaft for excessive wear or burring and replace if necessary.

b. Replace flywheel ring gear. Check teeth on mating pinion for wear and replace as necessary.

c. Install new linkage.

11. STARTER LOCKS

Possible Causes: a. Broken or chipped teeth on flywheel ring gear.

b. Loose starter mounting bolts.

Remedies: a. Replace flywheel ring gear. Check teeth on mating pinion for wear and replace as necessary, b. Remove starting motor and check for possible damage to pinion teeth. Remount starting motor and tighten bolts securely.

OILER DRIVE END HEAD BEARING

GASKET

SEAL RETAINER

LOCKWASHER

SCREW

RETAINER

POLE PIECES HELD COILS

SEAL WASHERS

BEARING RETAINER

LOCKWASHERS

WASHER

INSULATING WASHER

INSULATING BUSHING

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

BRUSH

BRUSH SPRING

BRUSH ARMS

COMMUTATOR END HEAD

COVER BAND

LOCKWASHERS

FRAME

SCREW

INSULATING BUSHING

INSULATING WASHER

WASHER

LOCKWASHERS

BRUSH SPRING

BRUSH

Fig. 6—Generator Type GGW (C-67, C-68) (Without Power Steering)

COVER

BEARING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—147

GENERATOR

A heavy-duty, air-cooled, shunt-type generator, with automatic cut-out, current and voltage regulation, is used. The output of the generator is controlled (in relation to the voltage requirements), keeping the battery fully charged and maintaining proper voltage under normal driving conditions. This means that the ammeter hand may gradually approach zero, indicating that the battery requires less current, at that time. Thus, the voltage control feature of the generator prevents over-charging of the battery.

12. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

GENERATOR

To remove generator, disconnect lead wires, and remove adjusting strap bolt and support bracket bolts.

When installing generator, adjust fan belt by pulling outward on generator, until belt shows approximately 14 inch slack (when pushed from a straight line) midway between the fan and generator pulley.

After installation of the generator, it may be necessary to flash the generator field to restore its residual magnetism and insure its correct polarity as follows:

First, disconnect the field lead at the " F " field terminal of the generator. Then connect a jumper wire from the field terminal post of generator to ground. Use a second jumper (with one end connected to the negative battery post) and touch the other end momentarily, but firmly, to the armature terminal post at the generator

(with the engine not running). Start engine and check for charge.

CAUTION

No connection, ground, battery or otherwise, should be made on the terminals of the regulator. Such a connection could damage the regulator by causing a dead short through its contacts. When flashing the field, be sure that the lead between the field terminals of the generator and regulator is removed at the generator field terminal post, during flashing operation.

13. DISASSEMBLY OF GENERATOR

(REFER TO FIGS. 6, 7, 8 AND 9> a. Removal and Disassembly of Commutator End

Head

(1) Remove generator cover band.

(2) Remove terminal screws (which attach brush pigtails to brush holders), lift brush arms away from brushes and remove brushes.

(3) Remove the bearing retaining screws from the end of the armature end head. (All

Power Steering).

(4) Remove the two long frame screws and remove the commutator end head. Inspect commutator end head bushing. If worn or damaged, replace it.

A worn bushing (generators so equipped) may allow the armature core to rub against the pole shoes and cause damage. Remove the felt wick from the end head (generators so equipped).

Press out the worn bushing and install a new one, using a suitable tool or mandrel.

Never ream an oil impregnated bushing. Be sure to soak the bushing before installation. Replace the felt wick if the generator is so equipped.

If the generator is equipped with a ball bearing, clean the ball bearing in suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. DO NOT SPIN

BEARING WITH COMPRESSED AIR. If bearing is satisfactory for further service, pack half full with high temperature, non-fiber grease and install in head.

Inspect all other parts of commutator end head for wear or distortion and replace parts as required. If brush holders are loose, do not attempt to tighten, but replace head.

Place head on armature and install brushes, check alignment and movement of brushes.

(Continued on page 151)

OILER

PULLEY

LOCK WASHER

NUT

SEAL RETAINER GASKET

SPACER \ BEARING

SEAL

RETAINER

BEARING RETAINER

LOCKWASHER

SCREW

FRAME

ARMATURE

I f)

INSULATING WASHER

WASHER

LOCKWASHER

NUT

LOCKWASHER

NUT.

DRIVE END HEAD

FIELD TERMINAL POST

INSULATING BUSHINGS

POLE PIECES

KEY

SEAL WASHERS

ARMATURE TERMINAL POST

BRUSH

BEARING*

SCREW

BRUSH SPRING

SCREW A N D LOCKWASHER

SCREW

NUT

LOCKWASHER

NUT

LOCKWASHER

WASHER

INSULATING WASHER

SEAL AND RETAINER

GASKET

BRUSH ARM>

LOCKWASHER

BRUSH

BRUSH SPRING

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

WASHER

COMMUTATOR END HEAD

SCREW

WASHER

COUPLING

Fig. 7—Generator Type GGU (C-69, C-70) (With Power Steering)

LOCKWASHERS

THRU BOLTS

51x883 B

SHAFT NUT

LOCK WASHER

OILER DRIVE END HEAD

FELT WASHER

HEAD FELT WASHER RETAINER

DRIVE HEAD BEARING

RETAINER

SNAP RING

ARMATURE

GASKET

RETAINER

FELT WASHER

LOCKWASHER

SCREW.

INSULATING WASHER

WASHER

NUT

LOCKWASHER

NUT

FIELD TERMINAL STUD

INSULATING BUSHING

FIELD COR

BEARING RETAINER

LOCKWASHER

BRUSH SPRING

BRUSH ARM

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

WICK

FRAME

SCREW

NUT

LOCKWASHER

NUT

LOCKWASHER

WASHER

INSULATING WASHER

POLE PIECE

HELD COIL

INSULATING BUSHING

ARMATURE TERMINAL STUD

COVER BAND

NUT

END COVER

GASKET

COMMUTATOR HEAD BEARING

COMMUTATOR END HEAD

BRUSH SET

LOCKWASHER

SCREW BRUSH SPRING

Fig. 8—Generator Type GGU (C-69, C-70) (Without Power Steering) tn in

49x775 B

NUT f,

LOCKWASHER

OILER

INSULATING BUSHINGS

DRIVE END HEAD

SPACER

SEAL

SEAL RETAINER

BEARING

GASKET

POLE PIECES

SPRING

BRUSH ARM

SPRING

SCREW A N D

LOCKWASHER

BEARING RETAINER

KEY

ARMATURE

SPACER NUT

S C R

/ LOCKWASHER

INSULATING

WASHERS

NUT

LOCKWASHER

PLAIN

WASHER

STUDS

FIELD COILS

BRUSH HOLDER

BRUSH- —

SCREW A N D L O C K W A S H E R ^

COMMUTATOR END HEAD

NUT

LOCKWASHER

NUT

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

PLAIN WASHER

COVER BAND

LOCKWASHERS

SCREW A N D

LOCKWASHER

SCREW, PLAIN WASHER AND LOCKWASHER

53x985

Fig. 9—Generator Type GGU (With Car Cooling) (Without Power Steering)

(Exploded View) (C-69, C-70)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(Continued from page 1U7) b. Removal and Disassembly of Drive End Head

(1) Pull the drive end head and armature from generator frame. Remove armature shaft nut, pulley and key.

(2) Remove the bearing cover screws and retainer and pull drive end head from bearing.

(3) Inspect bearing. Replace if worn or rough.

c. Removal of Field Coils

(1) Remove nuts from field and armature terminal posts and push posts to the inside of generator frame.

(2) Remove large screws which hold the field pieces to generator frame and remove field shoes and coils.

14. ASSEMBLY OF GENERATOR

(REFER TO FIGS. 6, 7, 8 AND 9) a. Installation of Field Coils

(1) Slide the field coils and field shoes into the generator frame with the brush lead wire and terminal post adjacent to the armature terminal post hole.

(2) Insert the terminal posts through the frame.

(3) Install the insulating washers and binding nuts on the terminal posts. Dip screws in linseed oil and install the screws which hold the field pieces to the frame.

(4) Tighten screws securely and stake.

b. Installation of Drive End Head and Armature

Be sure the ball bearing is in good condition and fits snugly into the recess. Before assembly, pack ball bearings about V2 full with a high temperature non-fiber grease. Soak felts in clean engine oil and compress slightly to remove excess oil before installation.

Install generator parts on the drive end of the armature shaft and slide the drive end head over the bearing. Align the retainers with the head and install the lockwashers and retaining screws.

Install woodruff key, drive pulley, lockwasher and nut.

CAUTION

Soft jaws should be installed on the vise before gripping the armature core to tighten the nut.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—151 c. Installation of Armature in Field Frame

Slide armature and drive end head assembly into the field frame and align the dowel hole in the end head with the dowel pin in field frame and tap head in place.

d. Installation of Commutator End Head (Without

Power Steering)

(1) Place the brush arms and springs over the pins in the end head.

(2) Slide the commutator end head over the armature shaft, mating the dowel hole and dowel pin.

(3) Install the thru bolts.

(4) Install a new felt wick. Align the gasket,

.end cover and holes in the end head and install retaining screws and lockwashers.

(5) Hold the brush arms out against the spring tension and slide the brushes into the brush holders (with the angle on the brushes conforming with the contour of the commutator).

(6) Connect the brush pigtails, field lead and armature lead to the brush holders, being sure terminals do not touch end frame and do not interfere with motion of brushes.

(7) Install cover band and lubricate bearings with 8 to 10 drops of oil in each oil cup.

e. Installation of Commutator End Head

(With Power Steering)

(1) Place the brush arms and springs over the pins in the end head.

(2) Install bearing, gasket and seal retainer on inner side of commutator end head and align screw holes with head. Install the retaining screws and lockwashers.

(3) Slide the assembly over the armature and on the generator field frame, mating the dowel pin hole over the dowel pin.

(4) Install the thru bolts and lockwashers.

(5) Install flat washer, coupling and coupling retaining screw and lockwasher. Tighten screw to 15 foot-pounds torque.

(6) Hold the brush arms out against the spring tension and slide the brushes into the brush holders (with the angle on the brushes con-

152—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM forming with the contour of the commutator).

(7) Connect the brush pigtails, field lead and armature lead to the brush holders, being sure terminals do not touch end frame and do not interfere with motion of brushes.

(8) Install cover band and lubricate bearings with 8 to 10 drops of oil in each oil cup.

15. TESTING GENERATOR a. Generator Motoring Test

A motoring test is often made to determine if the generator is in good condition. To perform the test, loosen and remove fan belt from generator pulley. Connect a jumper between the negative battery post and the armature terminal.

CAUTION

Do not touch field terminal of generator with jumper as voltage regulator will be damaged beyond repair.

If the generator "motors" over slowly, it should be able to generate. However, if the generator does not "motor" and a flash is obtained as jumper is connected, connect another jumper between the field terminal and a good ground.

If the generator now "motors," check the regulator for trouble in the field to ground circuit.

If generator does not function after above test is made, remove, disassemble and test parts as outlined in the following paragraphs:

COMMUTATOR

SEGMENTS

TEST

PROD

TEST PROD

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Testing Armature

(1) GROUND—Touch one lead from a test lamp to the armature shaft and the other lead from the lamp to the commutator segments, as shown in Figure 10. If the test lamp lights, the armature is grounded.

(2) SHORT CIRCUIT—Place the armature in a growler and turn growler switch to the low position (Fig. 11). Hold a steel strip

(parallel with and against the armature segments) and rotate the armature slowly.

If the steel strip vibrates, the armature is short circuited.

(3) INSULATED BRUSH HOLDER — Test for ground, as shown in Figure 12.

c. Testing Field Coils

(1) OPEN CIRCUIT — Connect one lead from a test lamp to the field terminal and the other lead from the lamp to the lead wire, as shown in Figure 13. If the lamp does not light, there is a break in the coil wiring.

(2) GROUND — Touch one lead from a test lamp to the generator frame and the other lead from the lamp to the field terminal post, as shown in Figure 14. If the lamp lights, the field coils are grounded.

(3) RESISTANCE — If during test (1) the lamp lights, even though test (2) shows no apparent ground, there may be an internal short or a small current leak and the test lamp may light despite the presence of such

ARMATURE SEGMENTS

STEEL STRIP

TOUCH ONE PROD

TO ARMATURE

SHAFT A N D OTHER

PROD TO

COMMUTATOR

S E G M E N T S -

IP TEST LAMP

LIGHTS, THE

ARMATURE IS

GROUNDED

GROWLER

SWITCH-OFF

GROWLER

GENERATOR

ARMATURE

TEST LAMP

S W I T C H - O N

32x70

Fig, 10—Testing Generator Armature far Ground

GROWLER

SWITCH-LOW

TEST LAMP

SWITCH-OFF

\ a

HOLD STEEL STRIP

PARALLEL WITH

A N D AGAINST

ARMATURE SEGMENTS,

ROTATE ARMATURE

SLOWLY—IF

STEEL STRIP VIBRATES

ARMATURE IS SHORT

CIRCUITED

32x71

Ftg. 11—Testing Generator Armature for Short Circuit

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

INSULATED

BRUSH HOLDER

GENERATOR

END PLATE

TEST PRODS

GROWLER

SWITCH-OFF

TOUCH ONE PROD

TO INSULATED

BRUSH HOLDER

A N D OTHER PROD

TO END P L A T E -

IF TEST LAMP

LIGHTS THE

BRUSH HOLDER

IS GROUNDED

GROWLER

TEST LAMP

SWITCH-ON

Fig. 12—Testing Insulated Brush Holder

3 2 x 6 9 conditions. If such occurs, check the resistance in the field windings by connecting an ammeter and variable resistance in series between a 6-volt battery and the two leads of the complete set of field coils.

Connect a voltmeter to the coil leads. Perform this test carefully because a shorted field may cause an excessively high current. Adjust voltage to 6 volts and read ammeter. If ammeter shows field coil draw over the specified number of amperes, replace field coil.

16. GENERATOR MAINTENANCE a. Inspection of Brushes

Check generator brushes to make certain that they are free in holders, are seating properly and are not worn excessively. Brushes should

GENERATOR FRAMh

A N D FIELD COILS

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—153

GENERATOR FRAME

A N D FIELD COILS

Fig. 14—Testing Field Coils for Ground

3 2 x 7 3 be examined at 10,000 miles, again at 20,000 miles and at 5,000 mile intervals thereafter.

Brushes that are worn short or are covered with oil should be replaced to prevent damage to armature, commutator and windings.

If the brushes are badly worn, or the commutator is rough or worn so that the mica is even with the bars, proceed as follows:

Remove generator, disassemble, clean the parts, turn the commutator and undercut the mica. Assemble, fit new brushes and bench test the generator before installing on engine.

b. Fitting New Brushes

To fit new brushes after assembling generator, take a strip of No. 00 sandpaper, cut the width of commutator and slide it, sand side up, around commutator and under brushes.

FIELD LEAD WIRE

3 2 x 7 2

Fig. 13—Testing Field Coils for Open Circuit

*. ««,-;«*

Fig. 15—Seating Brushes

• ' •

154—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

49x664

Fig. 16—Turning Commutator

(Using Tool C-770)

Rotate armature and sandpaper slowly, being sure to keep sandpaper tight, until brushes show at least a 75 per cent fit over the entire contact face (Fig. 15). After obtaining a proper seat for all brushes, carefully remove sandpaper so as not to cut the edge of a brush. Excessive use of sandpaper shortens brush life and should be avoided. Blow out all sand and carbon dust from generator. Run generator on test stand long enough to obtain a highly polished fit over entire contact face of brush, before checking or adjusting generator output.

c. Reconditioning Armature (Armature Removed)

If the commutator is rough, out-of-round, burned, or if the mica is even with, or extends above the surface, the commutator should be

49x665

Fig. 17—Undercutting Mica

(Using Tool C-770) turned down, using turning and undercutting

Tool C-770, as shown in Figure 16, or a lathe.

Care must be taken, when turning commutator, because when finished, it should not have over .0005 inch eccentricity when tested with a dial test indicator (with armature shaft bearing seats resting on V blocks).

To undercut commutator, a special undercutting tool can be used. Or, a tool can be made by taking a short piece of fine tooth hack saw blade and grinding offset of teeth to just fit width of mica slot. Be sure to undercut mica square, the full width of slot, and %

inch deep. After undercutting, polish commutator with No. 00 sandpaper to remove burred edges of commutator bars. (See Fig. 17).

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

17. GENERATOR FAILS TO CHARGE

Possible Causes: a. Open charging circuit.

b. Sticking brushes.

c. Dirty or burned commutator.

d. Grounded commutator. Grounded wiring.

e. Open circuit in field.

f. Poor soldering on armature and field studs.

g. Faulty regulator.

Remedies: a. Test generator for open charging circuit.

b. Free or replace generator brushes.

c. Check commutator and brushes. If brushes are badly worn, or the commutator is dirty, rough, or worn so that the mica is even with the bars, recondition armature. At reassembly, install new brushes.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—155 d. Check armature for grounded commutator. Check wiring for a ground.

e. Check generator for open circuit in field.

f. Check armature and field stud connections for poor contacts. Resolder to form good contact surface to correct this condition.

g. Check regulator.

18. LOW, UNSTEADY CHARGING RATE

Possible Causes: a. Slipping fan belt.

b. Defective ammeter.

c. Improperly seating brushes.

d. Weak brush spring tension.

e. Poor bond between brush and pigtail.

f. Out-of-round commutator.

g. Resistance in charging circuit.

h. High mica between commutator bars, i. Open armature winding, j . High resistance at battery terminal posts.

k. Loose connections.

Remedies: a. Check driving surfaces of fan belt and tighten. If the sides or bottom of belt are frayed, cracked or greasy, replace belt and adjust it for approximately Vk inch slack (when pushed from a straight line, midway between the fan and generator pulley).

b. Replace defective ammeter after checking to determine cause of failure.

c. Replace generator brushes and seat properly. Check armature commutator for roughness or high mica. Recondition commutator if necessary.

d. Check brush spring tension with tension specified in Data and Specifications. Discard springs that do not meet minimum requirements.

e. Check pigtails for discoloration which indicates a burned condition. Replace brushes as necessary. Tighten pigtails securely to form a good contact.

f. Recondition armature commutator. Install new brushes and check spring tension.

g. Check charging circuit.

h. Undercut mica.

i. Test armature for open winding. If unable to correct condition, replace armature and install new brushes.

j . Remove battery cables and clean terminals and clamps. Check clamps for corrosion and replace if necessary. Coat clamps with vaseline or grease to retard corrosion, install and tighten securely.

k. Clean and tighten connections in the charging circuit.

19. EXCESSIVE CHARGING RATE

Possible Causes: a. Defective regulator.

b. Overheated battery.

c. Grounded field or ground in generator to regulator wiring.

d. Shorted cell in battery.

Remedies: a. Replace defective regulator. Check to determine cause of failure.

b. Test battery. Test regulator for high voltage setting. Adjust or replace regulator to correct this condition.

c. Check generator for internal ground, check generator to regulator wire for ground and repair as necessary.

d. Test specific gravity of battery. Replace battery if necessary.

20. GENERATOR NOISY

Possible Causes: a. Misaligned fan belt or pulley.

b. Improperly seating brushes.

c. Worn bushing or bearing.

d. Loose generator drive pulley.

e. Loose field poles.

f. Excessive voltage output.

g. High wedges in armature slots.

156—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM h. Bent flange on pulley.

i. Generator fan blades striking.

j . Loose generator mounting.

Remedies: a. Check fan belt and pulley for true running.

Replace parts as necessary to correct this condition.

b. Check brushes for excessive wear and for looseness in holders. Replace brushes if necessary.

c. Replace bearing, and/or bushing. Check armature assembly for possible damage and replace if necessary.

d. Tighten drive pulley and check for true running.

e. Tighten pole shoes and check armature for possible damage.

f. / Refer to Paragraph 19 for Possible Causes.

g. Replace*, or sand down armature slot wedges.

h. Check fan belt for possible damage. Replace pulley as required.

i. Test generator fan pulley for true running.

j . Tighten generator mounting bolts.

21. NOISE AND ARCING AT

GENERATOR BRUSHES

Possible Causes: a. High mica between commutator bars.

b. Out-of-round commutator.

c. Sprung armature shaft.

d. Dirty, glazed commutator.

e. Hard spots on brushes.

f. Weak brush springs.

g. Worn or loose brushes.

h. Loose wiring at brush pigtails.

i. Excessive voltage output.

Remedies: a. Undercut mica. Inspect and replace brushes if necessary.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Recondition commutator. Check brushes and replace if necessary.

c. Replace armature assembly and install new brushes. Seat brushes properly.

d. Recondition armature. Check brushes for excessive wear and replace as required.

e. Replace brushes.

f. Check brush spring tension with tension specified in Data and Specifications. Discard springs that do not meet minimum requirements.

g. Replace brushes.

h. Refer to Paragraph 18, remedy e, for correction of this condition.

i. Refer to Paragraph 19 for remedies of this condition.

22. ARMATURE FAILURE (PREMATURE)

Possible Causes: a. Excessive charging rate.

b. Failure of voltage regulator.

c. Improper type brushes used.

d. Worn shaft bearing (pole rub).

e. Short between armature coils.

f. Shorted battery cell.

g. Insufficient ventilation.

Remedies: a. Check regulator setting and replace armature assembly. Check and adjust regulator as necessary.

b. Replace armature assembly. Check voltage regulator for proper adjustment. If unable to adjust, replace voltage regulator.

c. Replace armature assembly and install new brushes.

d. Replace armature assembly and install new bearing and bushing.

e. Replace armature assembly and install new brushes.

f. Replace battery and check voltage regulator for improper adjustment.

g. Inspect fan and vent holes for dirt or obstruction.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—157

CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR

COVER GASKET

The current and voltage regulator assembly

(Fig. 18) contains three units, namely: the cut out relay, the current regulator and the voltage regulator. Each unit has its own function to perform.

The cut out relay acts as an automatic switch between the generator and the battery. The cut out relay closes the charging circuit when the generator is charging and opens the circuit when the generator is not charging. This action prevents the battery discharging back through the generator.

The current regulator limits the maximum current output of the generator in amperes. When the generator output reaches a predetermined maximum, the regulator points are opened, cutting in a resistance in the generator field circuit

—thus reducing the output. Immediately upon the dropping of the output, the points close

(cutting out the resistance) and the output rises. These cycles occur so rapidly that the points vibrate at a high frequency, thus holding the output constant at a predetermined maximum.

The voltage regulator is used for holding the voltage of the electrical system constant within close limits. When the voltage rises to a predetermined value, the regulator contact points vibrate, thus cutting a resistance in and out of the generator field circuit.

— - -COVER FASTENING SCREWS

COVER

SPRING HANGERS

BATTERY TERMINAL ARMATURE SPRINGS

STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE

CURRENT REGULATOR

VOLTAGE REGULATOR j ! CUT jDUT RELAY

CAUTION

Do not attempt to adjust the regulator assembly, unless its operation is thoroughly understood and accurate meters are available. Even a slight error in the setting of the unit may cause improper functioning, resulting in a rundown or overcharged battery.

23. REGULATOR INSPECTION

Remove regulator cover, after checking to determine if seal has been broken, which may indicate previous adjustment or repair has been made. A close visual inspection should be made to determine if any of the following conditions exist:

(1) Loose or broken connections resulting from poor soldering or rough handling.

ADJUSTING

SCREWS

FIELD TERMINAL / SPRING

ARMATURE TERMINAL SPRING HANGER

Fig. 18—Current and Voltage Regulator

51x618

158—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

(2) Evidence of burning or abnormal high temperatures at the coils, contact points, insulation or flexible arm to which regulator contacts are mounted.

(3) Broken or altered resistors.

(4) Improperly installed armature springs, distorted spring hangers, bent armatures, yokes or hinges.

(5) Evidence of moisture or corrosion in regulator.

If any of the above conditions are apparent, or if regulator is in a generally poor condition, it should be replaced.

Before testing or adjusting regulator, the following tests should be made:

(1) Test and check the wiring in the charging circuit. Be sure all connections are clean, tight and in good condition.

(2) Test the specific gravity and check the ground polarity and voltage of the battery.

If not fully charged and in good condition, substitute (temporarily for test purposes) a fully charged battery of the same type and capacity.

(3) Check generator for operation without the regulator in the circuit.

(4) Check the part numbers stamped on the name plates of the generator and regulator to make sure the correct regulator has been installed. Each regulator is designed for use with a generator having a specified field draw, output, internal connections and speed range and may not work properly, if an incorrect substitution has been made.

24. TESTING CUT OUT RELAY

Disconnect wire from "B" terminal of the regulator; connect the positive (+) lead of a test ammeter to the wire removed and the negative (—) lead to the regulator "B" terminal, as shown in 10, Figure 19.

Connect the negative (—) lead of a test voltmeter to the "A" terminal of the regulator and positive (+) lead to the regulator housing ground, as shown in 9, Figure 19.

Start engine and be sure that it idles smoothly. Then, increase engine speed slowly to determine when the cut out relay points close.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

49x773

Fig. 19—Generator Regulator Wiring Diagram and Test Connections

1— Voltage regulator coil

2—Current regulator coil

3—Cut out relay

4—Voltmeter connection for current and voltage regulator tests

5—Regulator battery terminal

6—Regulator ground screws

7—Regulator field terminal

8—Regulator armature terminal

9—Voltmeter connection for circuit breaker test

10—Test ammeter

11—Battery

12—Generator

13-Resistor

When the hand of the voltmeter kicks back slightly, it indicates points have closed. This should occur at 6.3 to 6.8 volts.

If an adjustment is necessary, remove regulator cover and inspect the contacts of all three units. In normal use, the contacts will become grayed. If the contacts are burned, dirty or pitted, service the regulator contact points, as outlined in Paragraph 27.

Adjust closing by bending lower spring hanger on cut out relay unit.

25, TESTING VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Change voltmeter connection from armature to battery terminal of regulator, as shown in 4,

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Figure 19. Connect a variable resistance across the battery posts.

Run engine at a speed equivalent to 30 miles per hour for 15 minutes, adjust load to give

10 amp. output. Cover must be on regulator during this warm-up period and when taking test readings. The voltage regulator must control the voltage from 7.1 to 7.4 volts at 70° F.

If an adjustment is necessary, remove regulator cover and service the contact points, as outlined in Paragraph 27, of this Section.

Adjust regulated voltage by bending lower spring hanger. Replace cover, operate for 5 minutes and check voltage.

26. TESTING CURRENT REGULATOR

Leave the voltmeter and ammeter connected as when testing the voltage regulator.

Run engine at a speed equivalent to 30 miles per hour for 15 additional minutes, applying enough resistance load across the battery to maintain the voltmeter registering between 6.9

and 7.1 volts. At 70 degrees F., the current regulator should operate at the lower figure indicated on the regulator name plate (plus or minus 2 amps.) at the conclusion of the warmup period.

If an adjustment is necessary, remove regulator cover and service the points, as outlined in

Paragraph 27, of this Section.

Adjust by bending spring hanger.

NOTE

When removing or replacing the regulator cover, do not touch the relay armature. This would cause a short circuit and damage the regulator assembly.

27. SERVICING REGULATOR CONTACT

POINTS

Remove regulator cover and inspect the contact points of all three units. In normal use, the contacts will become grayed. If the contact points are burned, dirty or pitted, reface with a clean fine file.

CAUTION

Never use sandpaper, emery cloth or a rough file.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—159

Fig. 20—Refacing Contact Points

51x619

Fig. 21—Cleaning Contact Points with Lintless Tape

51x620

ADJUSTING SCREW

51x624

Fig. 22—Checking Air Gaps

(With Wire Gauge from Tool Kit C-828)

160—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

To reface contact points file lengthwise and parallel to the armature, as shown in Figure

20, until the contact points present a smooth flat surface toward each other. It will not be necessary to remove all traces of pitting.

NOTE

Crossways filing may form grooves which would tend to cause sticking and erratic operation.

Clean the contact points after filing with a strip of lintless bond tape, as shown in Figure 21.

Be sure that no lint remains between contacts after cleaning.

After refacing and cleaning the contact points, it will be necessary to readjust the armature air gaps in order to compensate for metal removed from contacts.

To check the current and voltage regulator air

gaps, use pin type gap gauge Tool from Kit

C-828, which measures from .048 to .052 inch.

Insert gauge on the point side of the air gap and next to the armature stop pin (Fig. 22) and with the contact points just separating.

To adjust air gap, loosen the bracket screws and raise or lower the contact point brackets until the desired clearance is obtained. Be sure that these screws are tightened securely after adjustments are made. Keep contacts aligned.

To check the relay air gap, use flat gauge Tool from Kit C-828, which measures .031 to .034

inch. Insert gauge between armature and magnet core, as shown in Figure 23. Be sure gauge is placed as near to the hinge as possible.

To adjust the relay air gap, bend the armature stop so the space between the core and armature is within the limits specified. Be sure stop does not interfere with the armature movement. Adjust the contact gap to .015 inch minimum by expanding or contracting the stationary contact bridge, as shown in Figure 24. Be sure to keep the contact points in alignment when adjusting contact gap.

NOTE

Increasing the contact gap lowers the opening voltage and raises the opening reverse current.

To adjust armature for proper opening and clos-

ing voltages, use bending Tool from Kit C-828.

With slot in the end of tool place over the lower spring hanger (Fig. 25), bend hanger to in-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FLAT GAUGE

51x625

Fig. 23—Checking Relay Air Gap

(Using Flat Gauge from Tool Kit C-828)

ARMATURE STOP

STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE

Fig. 24—Adjusting Relay Contact Gap

51x621

BENDING TOOL

Fig. 25—Adjusting Spring Tension

51x622

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

RESISTORS

51x623

Fig. 26—Resistor Assemblies on Regulator

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—161 crease or decrease the spring tension until the desired opening or closing voltage is obtained.

Checking Resistors—Refer to Figure 26. Check with an ohmmeter. The resistor marked 38 should test from 34.5 to 42 ohms, while the resistor marked 7 should test from 6.5 to 8.0 ohms resistance.

Marked 60 57-70

Marked 15 14-17.1

Marked 80 75-91

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

28. REGULATOR POINTS OXIDIZED

Possible Causes: a. Poor ground connections.

b. Misaligned contact points.

c. Improper air gap setting.

d. Shorted field in generator.

Remedies: a. File down contact points, after checking for poor connections on ground side of circuit.

b. File down contact points, align and adjust.

c. File down contact points. Set air gap from

.031 to .034 inch for circuit breaker and from

.048 to .052 inch for current and voltage regulator.

d. File down contact points, after checking for shorted field in generator.

29. REGULATOR POINTS PITTED

Possible Causes: a. Long usage, normal wear.

b. High current output of generator.

c. Insufficient point spring tension.

d. Reversed polarity in generator.

e. Radio condenser connected to field terminal instead of armature terminal of generator.

Remedies: a. File down contact points. Reset air gaps to required specifications.

b. Check regulator for burned coil windings or contact arms. If conditions exist, replace regulator. Otherwise, file down contact points, check air gap and contact point setting. Check generator for grounded or shorted field, or high resistance in ground circuit.

c. File down contact points. With special

Tool from Kit C-828 placed over the lower spring hanger, bend slightly to increase tension.

Increasing the spring tension raises the closing voltage. Refer to Servicing Regulator Contact

Points Paragraph 27.

d. File down contact points, reset air gaps and adjust contact points. Check generator polarity and correct as necessary.

e. Connect radio condenser to armature terminal.

162—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

30. BURNED COIL WINDINGS

Possible Causes: a. High voltage regulator setting.

b. High current regulator setting.

c. Grounded generator field.

Remedies: a. Replace regulator assembly.

b. Replace regulator assembly.

c. Replace regulator assembly, after checking and correcting the grounded condition in the generator field.

31. BURNED CONTACT ARM

Possible Causes: a. Regulator connected incorrectly.

b. Accidental, momentary short between battery terminal and field terminal of regulator.

c. Wrong procedure followed in connecting generator, causing a build-up.

Remedies: a. Check wiring diagram and replace regulator assembly.

b. Replace regulator assembly. To avoid dead shorts, be careful when working on regulator.

c. Replace regulator assembly. Polarize generator (after making all connections) by causing a momentary connection from the starting switch or the regulator battery terminal to the generator armature terminal.

32. STUCK CURRENT REGULATOR POINTS

Possible Causes: a. Reversed polarity.

b. Long usage.

c. Foreign material present.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Remedies: a. File down contact points. Polarize generator.

b. File down contact points. If condition still exists, replace regulator assembly.

c. Clean interior of regulator, inspect contact points, clean and align. Check cover gasket. If it does not seal properly, replace it.

33. STICKING VOLTAGE REGULATOR

CONTACT POINTS

Possible Causes: a. Misaligned points.

b. Poor ground connections between generator and regulator.

c. Wrong polarity on regulator.

d. Pitted or oxidized points.

e. Defective winding in regulator.

f. Radio condenser connected to field terminal instead of armature terminal of generator.

Remedies: a. Free up points, reset air gaps and adjust contact points.

b. Free up points, reset air gaps, clean and adjust contact points. Check connections between generator and regulator for indication of poor ground. Clean or tighten faulty connections to correct this condition.

c. Negative polarity regulators have "NEG" stamped in red on cover and should be used on negative ground systems only. Replace with proper positive ground regulator.

d. Refer to Paragraph 28 for Remedies of this condition.

e. Replace regulator assembly after checking to determine cause of failure.

f. Connect radio condenser to armature terminal of generator.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—163

BATTERY

Electrolyte in the battery should be maintained at proper level by adding pure distilled water to each cell. Batteries with "star" level indicators should be filled until the solution reaches star level.

Batteries with special vent plugs should be filled after removing filler plugs and attaching them to the vents. Fill each cell to the top of the filler plug opening. Then, remove plugs from vents and electrolyte will drop to proper level which is % inch above top of plates. There is no danger of overfilling battery unless it is filled too often.

Battery cell fluid level should be checked at least once a month in winter, every two weeks in summer, or every 1,000 miles.

Do not overfill or fill too frequently.

Water which is colorless, odorless, tasteless and suitable for drinking, is satisfactory for storage batteries.

WARNING: Explosive Gases!

Never allow a. flame or spark near the battery vent openings. Hydrogen gas, which forms in normal battery operation, may be present and explode.

a. Overcharging Battery

Overcharging a battery can be harmful in various ways, as follows:

(1) Overcharging causes high internal heat, which speeds corrosion of the positive plate grids and results in damage to the separators and negative plates. The case may become softened or distorted and the sealing compound displaced.

(2) Overcharging results in the separation of water and electrolyte, leaving the acid in a concentrated form, which can harm the separators and negative plate material at high temperatures over a period of time.

This may cause charring of the separators and rapid corrosion of the positive grids.

(3) Overcharging may cause corrosion of the cables, battery support and other vital electrical or engine parts by forcing liquid from the cells.

(4) Overcharging vaporizes the water from the electrolyte, forming bubbles of hydrogen and oxygen gases. These gas bubbles tend to wash active material from the plates, liberating moisture and acid from the cells in a fine mist.

(5) Overcharging alone (or in conjunction with a previous intercharging) results in severe warping or buckling of the positive plates and performation of the separators, thus allowing an internal "short."

34. BATTERY MAINTENANCE

In order to obtain long life and efficient service from a battery, two important servicings must be done periodically:

(1) The electrolyte must, at all times, be kept above the plates and separators. Only pure distilled water, or water that is suitable for drinking purposes, should be used.

NEVER ADD ELECTROLYTE except when it is definitely known that it has been lost by spillage.

(2) Be sure the battery is kept nearly charged at all times. Test the specific gravity at frequent intervals in order to determine the state of charge. Should the specific gravity fall below 1.250, remove the battery and have it charged.

b. Tightening Hold Down Bolts

Battery hold down bolts, if not properly tightened, are apt to allow the battery to

"bounce" or "jiggle" in the support, causing case and plate failure. Also, hold down bolts that are drawn too tight will result in a cracked or distorted case. Either of these conditions will result in premature failure of the battery and should be avoided. Tighten battery hold down bolts with a torque wrench to the recommended maximum torque of 3 foot-pounds.

164—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM c. Cold Weather Care

A battery that is operated in an undercharged condition is liable to freeze during severe winter weather. The freezing point of electrolyte varies with specific gravity variations. A fully charged battery with 1.280 specific gravity corrected to 80° F. will freeze at —90° F.The following chart indicates the freezing points at various specific gravity readings:

Specific Gravity

(Corrected to 80° F.)

1.280

1.250

1.200

1.150

1.100

Freezing Point of Battery

—90°

—62°

—16°

+ 5°

+19°

CAUTION

Keep battery charged in cold weather.

35. TESTING BATTERY

The battery should be checked periodically with a hydrometer. The following readings show charge condition.

Fully Charged 1.275 to 1.300

Half Charged 1.225

Dangerously Low 1.150

When reading a hydrometer, hold the barrel in a vertical position with sufficient amount of acid to lift the float freely. Take reading at eye level, and disregard the curvature of the liquid at the edges.

The reading of a hydrometer will vary with temperature variations of the electrolyte. (An ordinary dairy thermometer may be used to take electrolyte temperature readings. Always take these readings from the center cell.) A hydrometer reading of a cell which has an electrolyte temperature above 80° F. will indicate less than the reading of a cell with the electrolyte at 80° F. The opposite holds true when the electrolyte temperature is below 80° F. Hydrometer floats are calibrated to indicate a correct reading only at one temperature, 80° F.

a. The Open Circuit Voltage Tester

The Open Circuit Voltage Tester is an electrical instrument used to indicate the specific gravity of the electrolyte within the plates of the battery. Take the reading at a time when the cir-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL cuit is open (when current is not being delivered to, or taken from, the battery).

The following can be determined with this voltage tester:

(1) State-of-charge of battery.

(2) Condition of battery.

To test battery with Open Circuit Voltage

Tester, turn on the headlights for two minutes to eliminate surface charge. THIS IS IMPOR-

TANT!

Hold Tool MT-310 in a vertical position and press it FIRMLY into the battery post and intercell connector, as shown in Figure 27.

Be sure that the red prod contacts a positive

(+) battery post or intercell connector and the black prod contacts a negative (—) post or connector.

After reading No. 1 cell (starting at negative post of battery), reverse prods for No. 2 cell and reverse again for No. 3. Take reading from gauge which will show either a serviceable or a rundown condition. If cell volts vary more than 6 divisions (as indicated by gauge), replacement of battery is recommended.

If readings indicate that the battery is less than V2 charged, remove and recharge the battery.

A battery in which cell voltages vary more than .05 volt should be charged and checked

49x684

Fig. 27—Checking Battery with Tool MT-310 Open

Circuit Voltage Tester

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

49x685

Fig. 28—Testing Battery Capacity

(Usina CaDacitv Tester Tool MT-314}

49x686

Fig. 29—Guarding Battery Temperature on Charge

(With Thermal Signal Tool MT-315)

49 x 679

Fig. 30—Cleaning Inside of Cable Clamp

(With Wire Brush Tool MX-75)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—165 with a high rate discharge tester, or other suitable method before discarding the battery as unsuitable for use.

b. The Portable Battery Capacity Tester

Tool MT-314 (Fig. 28), the Portable Battery

Capacity Tester is used to determine whether or not the battery is worn out. Such a condition can not be determined before charge because of even cell wear that does not show up on the

Open Circuit Voltage Tester. Tool MT-314 is accurately calibrated for testing at 125° F., the shutoff temperature after a fast charge, or for

80° F., after a slow charge. The instrument can be adjusted for the capacity of the battery— from 80 to 140 amp. hours. It should be used in testing a battery before condemning the unit.

c. The Thermo Signal

Tool MT-315, as shown in Figure 29, is available for converting a fast charger to thermostatic control. The tool, placed in the battery at the start of charge, will automatically signal

(by buzzer) when the battery has received its maximum safe fast charge (125° F.). This tool provides a "safety" control to time clock chargers and makes possible after-charge capacity testing, as the temperature is the same for either slow or fast charging.

36. CORRODED BATTERY TERMINALS

Before diagnosing trouble at the generator or the regulator, check battery terminals for corrosion. Trouble resulting from corroded battery terminals is sometimes diagnosed as a defective generator or regulator.

The oxidation, which occurs between the post and the cable clamp, is a thin, black coating that may be overlooked. Frequently, this corrosion results in either high resistance or complete open circuit. The circuit can be open one minute and entirely closed the next.

The use of battery terminal cleaning Tool

MX-75 greatly facilitates the cleaning operation.

This tool incorporates a male brush for cleaning the inside of the cable clamps, as shown in Figure

30, and a female brush for cleaning the outside of the battery post, as shown in Figure 31.

To clean cable clamps, remove cover and insert male brush in the cable clamp. Exerting

166—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM pressure, turn the tool until a clean, bright surface is obtained.

To clean battery terminal post, replace cover over male brush and place female brush over battery post. Exerting pressure, force brush down over post and turn tool until a clean, bright surface is obtained.

Connect cable clamps to battery posts and tighten securely. A loose battery connection will cause excessively high generator voltages, which are likely to burn out light bulbs, pit and burn ignition breaker points and cause damage to generator and other electrical equipment.

Coat connections with vaseline or grease to retard corrosion.

The cleaning operation should be done at least once a year, or at 10,000 mile intervals.

NOTE

If positive battery post is equipped with a felt washer, soak the washer in medium engine oil and insert over post before attaching ground cable clamp.

37. RESEALING THE BATTERY

Sealing compounds are used to form an acid tight joint between the covers and containers.

To reseal battery, proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the old sealing compound from case and covers to approximately one inch beyond leak, or until sealing compound is forming a tight seal.

(2) Thoroughly dry the covers and all portions of the container where the sealing com-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

49 x 678

Fig. 31—Cleaning Outside of Battery Post

(With Wire Brush Tool MX-75) pound will make contact. Since the sealing compound will not stick to a wet or dirty surface, special care should be taken in cleaning to assure a clean, dry surface.

The sealing compound should be quite hot

(about 325° F.), but must not be heated until it smokes. Inspect the covers and the groove where the hot compound will be poured, so that the hot seal will not run into the cell.

Pour the hot seal into the groove until the proper level is obtained, if the seal should sink slightly, let the first pour cool. Then, level up with more hot seal.

NOTE

Always use new sealing compound when resealing a battery.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

38. BATTERY RUN DOWN

Possible Causes: a. Low regulator setting.

b. Loose fan belt.

c. Corroded battery terminals.

d. Short in charging circuit.

e. Stuck cutout in regulator.

f. Excessive use of electrical units.

g. Faulty stop light switch.

h. Faulty door switch.

i. Insufficient driving.

Remedies: a. Recharge battery. Then, test current regulator for proper amperage setting, as outlined

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL in Paragraph 26, of this Section. Adjust as necessary to correct this condition.

b. Recharge battery. Readjust fan belt and check driving surfaces, as described in Paragraph 18, Remedy a, of this Section.

c. Recharge battery and clean terminals and clamps, as outlined in Paragraph 36, of this

Section. Check clamps for corrosion and replace as necessary.

d. Recharge battery. Then, test generator, voltage regulator and charging circuit wiring for shorts. Replace parts as necessary to correct this condition.

e. Recharge battery. Refer to Possible Causes listed in Paragraphs 32 and 33. Service as indicated to correct this condition.

f. Recharge battery. Avoid excessive use of electrical units whenever possible.

g. Recharge battery. Then, replace faulty stop light switch and bleed lines. Refer to Brake

Section.

h. Recharge battery. Then, replace faulty door switch with a new one to correct this condition. In most cases, shimming the switch to make it project out farther will cure the condition.

i. Recharge battery. Then, either drive car more often or use a trickle charger.

39. BATTERY WILL NOT RETAIN WATER

Possible Causes: a. Too high charging rate.

b. Cracked battery case.

c. Leaking battery cell.

d. Defective sealing compound.

Remedies: a. Fill battery to correct level. Then, check voltage regulator, as outlined in Paragraph 26,

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—167 of this Section. Adjust or replace regulator to correct this condition.

b. Replace battery after checking to determine cause of case failure.

c. Replace battery after checking to determine cause of cell failure.

d. Replace battery, or if possible, reseal old one, as outlined in Paragraph 37, of this Section.

40. BATTERY WILL NOT TAKE CHARGE

Possible Causes: a. Low water level.

b. Worn out battery.

c. Spilled electrolyte.

d. Internal short circuit.

e. Impure electrolyte.

Remedies: a. Fill battery to correct level of % inch above plates and charge. The plates.are unable to take full part in the battery action unless completely covered by electrolyte.

b. Replace worn out battery with a new one of the same type and capacity. Test generator and voltage regulator for correct operation.

c. Recharge battery at 15 amp. hour maximum rate until specific gravity of all cells remains constant for two successive readings taken at least one hour apart. Remove a quantity of electrolyte from each cell and mix with new, adding water or electrolyte until 1.280

specific gravity is reached.

d. Replace shorted battery with a new one of the same type and capacity. Test generator and regulator for correct operation.

e. Pour impure electrolyte from battery and fill with fresh water. Repeat this operation several times. Then, fill with 1.350 specific gravity sulphuric acid electrolyte only, recharge battery and adjust fully charged specific gravity to the desired value.

168—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CAP ASSY

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CONTACT SPRING

CONTACT PLUNGER

ROTOR

LOCKWASHER

SCREW

CONDENSER

SCREW

IOCKWASHER

SCREW.

WASHER

LOCKWASHER

SCREW-

LEAD-

BREAKER

PLATE

CAM SLEEVE

WICK

SNAP RING

CAM

ANTI-RATTLE

SPRING

SPACER

GROUND LEAD

LOCKWASHER

PRIMARY LEAD

\ /

GOVERNOR WEIGHTS

SHAFT

BUSHING

' TERMINAL

INSULATION

BUSHING

SPRING AND BRACKET

WASHER

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

NUT

SCREW

LOCKWASHER

INSULATOR

VACUUM CHAMBER ASSY

WASHER

CLAMP

SPRING

/ PLUG f

GASKET

ELBOW

5 1 x 3 7 7

Fig. 32—Distributor (Exploded View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—169

AMMETER

41. AMMETER

The ammeter shows only the current flowing to or from battery, as the case may be, and does not indicate entire generator output. The current supplied for ignition, lights and accessories, is automatically deducted from generator output reading.

Because of this, the ammeter should never be used as an accurate check for generator current output.

Ammeter should not indicate more than 10 ampere charge above 30 M.P.H., after first 30 minutes of continuous driving. If more than a

10 ampere charge is indicated with a battery gravity of 1.275 or higher, check the voltage control regulator.

IGNITION SYSTEM

DISTRIBUTOR

42. DESCRIPTION (FIG. 32)

The ignition distributor is driven by a drive shaft which engages the camshaft. The distributor accurately times and distributes the ignition current. Two sets of breaker points (V-8 engine distributor), located in the base of the distributor, time the ignition by opening and closing the primary circuit between the battery and the ignition coil at the correct time. A rotor in the distributor cap distributes the high tension current

(built up by the ignition coil) to the spark plugs as the pistons reach the top of their compression strokes.

Two devices are built into the distributor to provide automatic advance of ignition timing, according to engine speed and load. One of these, a centrifugal governor in the distributor body, regulates the spark timing according to speed.

The other is a vacuum operated unit that is attached to the side of the distributor body. The vacuum for operating this unit is obtained through a drilled passage above the throttle valve in the carburetor. The vacuum unit regulates the spark timing according to load.

43. PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION (FIG. 33) a. Distributor Points

When distributor points open, the primary cui> rent through the coil is interrupted. This causes the magnetic field to collapse suddenly and induces a high voltage in the secondary winding.

This high voltage fires the spark plug. The value of this voltage depends on how much primary current is present at the instant of point opening. This primary current starts building up as soon as the points close after firing the spark plug. The longer the points remain closed, the greater will be the primary current build up (to the point of saturation) and the higher the voltage induced when the points again open to fire the next spark plug. On an 8-cylinder distributor with only one set of points, the length of time the points are closed (when operating at high speed) is so short that the primary current does not build up enough for efficient operation.

This build-up time for the primary current is increased by using two sets of points which are connected in parallel between coil and ground and are staggered in relation to the 8-lobe cam.

The over-lapped contacts result in longer coil saturation and, as they are in a parallel circuit, no ignition occurs until both contacts are open.

See Figure 33. As the cam rotates in a clockwise direction (as viewed from above), the first set of points closes the primary circuit. As it rotates a little further, the second set of points closes.

But, since they are connected in parallel, the circuit is not changed. Further rotation of the cam causes the first or "circuit maker" points to open. But, the circuit is not interrupted because the second or "circuit breaker" points are still closed. Later, the second set of points open and

170—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

IMMEDIATELY AFTER

SPARK OCCURS AT

CYLINDER

CIRCUIT MAKER POINTS - CLOSED

CIRCUIT FROM PRIMARY COIL

CLOSED THROUGH POINTS TO

GROUND

JUST BEFORE SPARK

OCCURS AT CYLINDER

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PRIMARY COIL

CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS

STARTING TO CLOSE

PRIMARY COIL

AS SPARK OCCURS

AT CYLINDER

CIRCUIT MAKER POINTS - OPEN

CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS - CLOSED

CIRCUIT FROM PRIMARY COIL

CLOSED THROUGH POINTS TO

GROUND

PRIMARY COIL

CIRCUIT MAKER POI

STARTING TO CLOSE

CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS - OPEN

PRIMARY CIRCUIT OPEN

PRIMARY COIL COLLAPSES

51X152

Fig. 33—Distributor (Operational Schematic) (V-8 Engine)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—171 break the primary circuit, causing a spark at the plug. Thus, on the two-breaker distributor used on the V-8 engine, one set of points closes the primary circuit and the other set opens the circuit, therefore, the primary current has more time to build up for efficient high speed operation.

b. Spark Advance

When engine is idling with throttle closed, there is no vacuum present at the vacuum unit and the spark occurs at the timed position. With wide open throttle operation, such as on acceleration, the vacuum is insufficient to operate the vacuum unit, but the spark is advanced to correct position by means of the centrifugal governor.

Under normal road load or part throttle operation, the spark is advanced by the governor in proportion to speed. In addition, sufficient vacuum is created at the vacuum control unit to move the diaphragm and compress the spring in the unit. The arm of the vacuum unit is connected to the breaker point plate which rotates, causing additional spark advance for efficient fuel economy.

44. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

DISTRIBUTOR

To remove distributor, disconnect vacuum control line and low tension wire and remove cap and lock plate hold down screw.

When installing distributor assembly on engine, make sure that number one piston is at top dead center on compression stroke and that the distributor rotor is in the number one firing position.

45. SERVICING THE DISTRIBUTOR

The distributor should be tested and recalibrated approximately every 10,000 miles, in order to insure efficient engine operation.

NOTE

Before attempting to calibrate the distributor, check drive shaft bushings with dial indicator,

Tool C-707, and spring scale, Tool C-690. If play in shaft is more than .005 inch, replace and burnish bushings with Tool C-SOJ^l.

To check the mechanical advance mechanism, place the distributor on tester and connect leads to the primary connection on the distributor.

Connect the vacuum control tube to vacuum chamber on distributor.

Start the tester and check the advance curve number of rpm against the degree of advance.

Compare with specifications. If the degree of advance is more than limits shown in specifications, at the same rpm, the governor weight spring is too weak, making the advance too rapid.

If the degree of advance is less than the limits shown in the specifications, at the same rpm, the spring tension is too stiff, making the advance too slow.

In most cases, the tension of the spring may be increased or decreased by bending the bracket on the weight plate to which the springs are attached, in order to make the springs conform with specifications.

It is advisable to replace old springs with new ones only after failure to make original spring come within specifications.

The vacuum chamber on the distributor compensates for load conditions of the engine. Upon sudden acceleration, or wide open throttle operation, the manifold vacuum drops, causing the spring in the chamber to retard the ignition timing. As engine load, or throttle opening, decreases, the vacuum increases and overcomes spring pressure and advances the ignition timing.

A weak or broken spring in the chamber will not retard the timing properly and detonation will result.

NOTE

Before testing, be sure the diaphragm in the vacuum chamber will hold vacuum.

To check the vacuum advance mechanism, slow the tester down to about 800 rpm, where gauge will show a steady reading. Check the vacuum control specifications for the inches of vacuum at which the advance starts.

Without changing distributor speed, turn the control knob on the tester to get the amount of vacuum required for full specified advance. If the advance does not fall within specifications,

172—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM remove the retaining nut and take out or add washers to make the necessary adjustment.

Check washer thickness ana substitute a thinner washer, if the advance requires more than the specified vacuum. If too much advance is obtained, substitute a thicker washer.

When the right combination of washers is obtained to permit full advance to start, check the amount of vacuum necessary to produce 1 degree of advance. Usually, if the advance is correct at full position and at the proper vacuum, it will be correct throughout the entire range.

In some cases, it may be necessary to change the spring and then readjust its tension by means of various combinations of washers.

46. TESTING BREAKER SPRING TENSION

Hook a spring scale on the arm at the point end and pull at right angles to the point surfaces.

Take a reading as the points start to separate.

The spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces. If spring tension is not within these specifications, loosen the screw which holds the end of the point spring and slide the end of the spring in and out as necessary. Do not pull the conductor ribbon tight against the spring, as this will cause

the ribbon to fatigue and break. Tighten the screw and check the tension. Test the tension of the remaining breaker arm spring in like manner.

47. CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR GOVERNOR

ADVANCE

Mount the distributor assembly in a test stand and check the distributor rpm and degrees of advance as follows:

(1) Operate the distributor in the correct rotation, at low speeds, gradually increasing speed, until the distributor spark advances.

Reduce the speed and set the indicator at zero.

(2) Now, increase the distributor speed from

300 to 400 rpms. The degree reading should be zero.

(3) Again advance the speed to 550 rpm. The reading should read as indicated in the specifications (plus or minus 1 degree). If the advance is not as specified, stop the distributor, remove the breaker plate and bend the outer spring lug on the lightweight spring to change its tension.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(4) Check this adjustment again and operate the distributor at the specified high speed. If this advance is not as specified in Data and

Specifications—plus or minus 1 degree— stop the distributor. Bend the outer spring lug on the heavy-weight spring to change its tension.

(5) Now, recheck the zero point and the above two settings and make the changes required. Then, check the advance at all points specified.

NOTE

When making this last check, operate the distributor both up and down the speed range. If variations exist between the readings for increasing and decreasing speeds, the governor action is sluggish and an overhaul is required.

48. CHECKING THE VACUUM ADVANCE

After checking the distributor governor action, check the vacuum advance as follows:

(1) Connect the vacuum line, being careful not to distort the vacuum chamber housing.

Turn on the vacuum pump to give a reading of 10 to 20 inches of vacuum. Then, shut off the pump. If the gauge reading falls, it indicates leakage in the vacuum chamber, gauge, or connections. The source of the leakage should be located and the condition corrected before check is made.

(2) Remove the vacuum line from the distributor and operate at a speed above the maximum governor advance speed (see Data and Specifications) to eliminate all spark advance variations due to the governor.

(3) Set the indicator at zero and apply vacuum to give one of the advance figures specified.

If the advance reading is incorrect, change the spacer washers between the vacuum chamber spring and nut.

NOTE

If the reading is below specifications, remove necessary washers to give correct reading. If the reading is above specifications, add necessary thickness washers to give a correct reading.

When changing washers, tighten the nut securely and make sure the nut gasket is in place.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

When one point of the curve is adjusted, the others should be checked. If they are not correct, it indicates either incorrect spring characteristics or leakage in the vacuum chamber or tubes.

49. ADJUSTMENT OF DISTRIBUTOR BREAKER

POINTS a. Setting Points

Since the breaker points are timed to close and open at the exact instant necessary for efficient engine operation, adjustment of points is an important factor in correct distributor operation.

New points can be adjusted with a feeler gauge. If points are used but are still clean and make flat contact with each other, a dial indicator Tool C-707 can be used satisfactorily. If points are pitted or badly worn, they should be replaced because metal may be burned, causing a resistance that would result in poor point operation.

Feeler gauge or dial indicator method—Rotate the distributor shaft until rubbing block of one set of points is on high spot of cam (Fig. 34).

With screwdriver blade inserted in the triangular opening, close or open points to a clearance of .015 to .018 inch by turning screwdriver blade against stationary point plate. Check clearance with a clean feeler gauge or dial indicator.

NOTE

The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that the stationary point plate can be moved with a slight drag. Otherwise, it will be difficult to set the points accurately.

After setting points to correct clearance, tighten lock screw. Turn distributor shaft until rubbing block of second set of points is on high spot of cam. Adjust the second set of points in the same manner.

b. Checking Condition o! Distributor With

Dwell Meter

When adjusting distributor contact points with a dwell meter, first set the point gap to the specified clearance with a feeler gauge, or dial indicator, as outlined in a. above. Find the

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—173 degrees of dwell on the dwell meter and check the dwell reading with the gap of the points.

rMAKER POINTS BREAKER POINTS

LOCK SCREW

-GAP

STATIONARY PLATE 51x156

Fig. 34—Adjusting Distributor Breaker Point Gap

If the dwell meter shows 27 degrees for one set of points (with the specified gap of .015

inch to .018 inch), or a total dwell of 34 degrees, the distributor is in good condition. If the dwell angle is not within specifications with the specified point gap, or if the dwell meter needle is erratic, the distributor should be carefully checked for the following conditions:

(1) Worn rubbing block.

(2) Rubbing block bent or worn over to form a sort of shoe at the end. (This condition usually results when non-standard parts are used.)

(3) Rubbing block not square with cam.

(4) Badly worn cam (only on very old distributor) .

(5) Drive shaft bushing wear.

50. ADJUSTING IGNITION TIMING

Make certain that points have been properly adjusted and that distributor has been properly installed in engine. Timing can be most satisfactorily adjusted with the use of timing light Tool C-693, as follows.:

NOTE

When timing C-70 use combination 6-12 volt light Tool C-863.

174—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM a. Setting to Specified Firing Position

(Engine Running)

(1) Place chalk mark on vibration damper indicating specified number of degrees.

(2) Insert male end of adapter Tool C-3066 into

No. 1 distributor tower and insert No. 1 spark plug wire into female end of adapter, as shown in Figure 35.

(3) Attach timing light, Tool C-693 (Fig. 35), as follows:

(a) Connect blue wire to metal female end of adapter Tool C-3066.

(b) Connect wire with black insulator to negative battery terminal.

(4) Start the engine and allow it to idle.

CAUTION

For acurate reading, make sure that the carburetor is not set at the fast warm-up, idle speed.

Wait until it Ks at slow idle after warm-up.

(5) The timing light flash should occur when the chalk mark on vibration damper is opposite the pointer on the engine block. If it does not, loosen the distributor clamp

u NO. 1

f SPARK

PLUG

WIRE

5 1 x 1 6 6 CHALK MARK TO BATTERY

Fig. 35—Timing Light Tool C-693 with Adapter C-3066

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL bolt and move the distributor either clockwise or counter-clockwise until the specified setting is obtained. Tighten the clamp bolt. As the engine speed is increased, the timing light should indicate a gradual spark advance.

b. Setting to Specified Firing Position (Engine Not

Running)

If timing light is not available, a fairly accurate adjustment can be made as follows:

(1) Turn engine over in operation direction until specified reading in degrees of crankshaft rotation on vibration damper appears at pointer.

(2) Connect test lamp in series between distributor primary lead and negative battery post.

(3) Loosen distributor adjustment clamp bolt and back off distributor by turning it clockwise until lamp lights. If lamp lights immediately, this back-off is unnecessary.

(4) Turn distributor slowly counter-clockwise

(against direction of rotor travel) until instant lamp goes out.

(5) Tighten clamp bolt.

c. Setting to Advance or Retard Position

To advance or retard the timing to conform with special conditions, leave timing light Tool

C-693 hooked up as outlined in b., above and proceed according to the following instructions:

In low altitudes, the engine will give its best performance if timed according to the Specifications chart.

With this timing, there will be a trace of spark ping from 15 to 30 miles an hour when accelerating with wide open throttle in high gear from 15 miles per hour.

When using lower grade fuels, or after carbon has accumulated, spark ping may be excessive with the specified timing. In such cases, ignition should be retarded not to exceed 4 degrees of crankshaft rotation later than specified timing.

In high altitudes, there is less tendency for spark ping with either standard or premium fuels, and the same thing is true in low alti-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL tudes, when using premium gasolines. Improved performance may be obtained by advancing the spark not to exceed 4 degrees ahead of specified setting.

Within the foregoing limits, namely: from 4 degrees earlier to 4 degrees later than specified timing, a good rule to follow is to advance the spark until a slight ping is audible when accelerating from 15 miles per hour in high speed with wide open throttle.

The distributor should be moved clockwise to retard ignition and counter-clockwise to advance ignition.

d. Checking Distributor Advance

The operation of the advance mechanism in the distributor can be checked on a testing machine. Refer to Data and Specifications for distributor advance specifications. Also, see

Paragraph 47.

51. CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT

BUSHINGS

To service distributor drive shaft bushings, remove the breaker plate assembly and cam and stop plate. Check the bushing wear as follows:

Attach a dial indicator to the distributor base and adjust the plunger of the indicator against the top of the drive shaft. Move the shaft to and from the indicator with just enough force to indicate the clearance. (Too much pressure will cause the shaft to spring and show a false reading.) If the clearance is more than .008 inch, replace the bushings.

52. IGNITION COIL

The ignition coil transforms battery voltage into high voltage for the spark plugs. If there are indications that the coil is not delivering a satisfactory spark, first check all connections at ammeter, ignition switch, coil and distributor to make sure that they are clean and tight.

A quick coil check may be made by removing coil high tension wire at distributor cap and holding it near cylinder head. With ignition switch turned on and starting motor cranking the engine, a spark should jump from the end of the high tension wire to the cylinder head. If spark is more than *4 inch long, the coil is in good condition and the trouble is elsewhere in the electrical system. Check the elec-

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—175 trical system to determine the cause and correct as necessary.

The ignition coil has been carefully designed to give maximum power and performance. No improvements can be obtained by use of other than the original equipment type of unit. If there is a clear indication that coil is defective, it should be replaced with a unit of same make and model.

To remove coil, disconnect high and low tension wires. Remove retaining screws or nuts and dismount coil.

53. SPARK PLUGS

The resistor type spark plug incorporates a resistor which, with the resistor in the distributor, eliminates radio static noises.

By using a high voltage, high output coil and

10,000 ohm resistor in the distributor cap, the spark plug gap has been increased to .035 inch.

This improves idle and low speed operating performance.

The spark plugs for the C-68, C-69 and C-70 may be distinguished from the C-67 plugs by the longer thread on the base. The longer base spark plugs must not be used in the 188 hp engines, likewise the shorter base spark plugs should not be used in the 250 hp engines. The engines may be damaged if the correct length plugs are not used (Fig. 36).

Fig. 36—Spark Plugs

Short Reach C-67; Long Reach C-68, C-69, C-70

176—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

TUBE

- \

51x394

Fig. 37—Removing or Installing Spark Plugs

C-68, C-69, C-70

For best engine performance and economical operation, spark plugs should be kept clean.

They should be cleaned in a blast type cleaner which will remove deposit formed by use of chemically treated fuels for high compression engines. If this deposit is not removed, the engine may "miss" under heavy load or high speed driving.

NOTE

Spark plug gaskets should not be used on the

Chrysler 250 hp engines.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

It is advisable to clean the spark plug seats each time the plugs are removed for cleaning, inspection or replacement. Maintenance of the temperature of the plugs depends largely upon the proper installation and tightening of the plugs in the cylinder head to insure the proper heat transfer from the nose of each plug through the shell and seat to the engine's cooling system.

Examine the seats of the spark plug tubes for burrs.

After cleaning the spark plugs, adjust the gap to .035 inch, using a round feeler gauge. Make all adjustments on the side electrode of the spark plug. If the center electrode is bent, the porcelain may crack, resulting in plug failure.

When cleaning the longer reach spark plugs care should be taken to see that plugs are positioned properly in cleaner to allow for complete sandblasting of the areas required for proper plug cleaning. Refer to Data and Specifications for type, gap and other information pertaining to new spark plugs.

CAUTION

On the C-68, C-69, C-70 engine, do not drop spark plugs into the tubes as this may cause the gaps to close up. When installing, place a spark plug in the socket wrench (Fig. 37) and bring the tube down over the plug. Hold the plug down in the tube and insert the asserribly into the cylinder head.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

54. BURNED OR PITTED POINTS

Possible Causes:

a. Dirt or oil on points.

b. Improperly adjusted points.

c. Defective condenser.

d. Defective coil.

e. Worn bushings on distributor shaft.

f. Regulator setting high.

g. Extremely high voltage.

Remedies:

a. Clean breaker points and check for pitting.

If the contact surfaces are badly burned, replace points and condenser.

b. Adjust points to .015 to .018 inch on 8 cyl.

Excessive flashing or burning may be caused

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL by a chattering or rebound of the contact points.

Test breaker arm spring tension, as described in

Paragraph 46, of this Section.

c. Replace condenser and check contacts for pitting or burning. Replace parts as required.

d. Replace defective coil. Check points for burned or pitted contact surface. Replace parts as required.

e. Replace bushings on distributor drive shaft.

f. Check regulator setting, as outlined in Paragraph 25, of this Section. Check points for excessive burning. Replace parts as required.

g. Damage to the coil by extreme high voltages may be caused by failure of the voltage regulator to operate properly. This will be indicated by an overcharged condition of the battery. Refer to Paragraph 34, of this Section.

Check voltage regulator, as outlined in Paragraph 25 of this Section. Replace defective coil and points, if the contacts are burned or pitted.

The new spark plug has a "colder" rating than the conventional plug of the same tip length, thereby providing improved high-load performance.

55. IGNITION COIL FAILURE

Possible Causes:

a. Extremely high voltages.

b. Moisture formation.

c. Excessive heat from engine.

d. Open circuit at soldered connection on primary studs.

Remedies:

a. Damage to the coil by extreme high voltages may be caused by failure of the voltage regulator to operate properly. This will be indicated by an overcharged condition of the battery. Refer to Paragraph 34, of this Section.

Check voltage regulator, as outlined in Paragraph 25, of this Section. Replace defective coil and points, if the contacts are burned or pitted.

b. Replace defective coil and points, if the contact surfaces are burned or pitted. (The

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—177 failure of the ignition coil may be caused by the entrance of moisture through a break in the soldered joints of the can—due to rough handling.) c. Replace defective coil and points, if the contact surfaces are burned or pitted. Refer to

Cooling System, Section V, for correction of excessive engine heat.

d. Resolder connections in primary studs, a k lowing solder to flow into stud cavity. Be very careful not to overheat the bakelite tower. If unable to make satisfactory connection, replace coil and points if necessary.

56. CONDENSER FAILURE

Possible Causes: a. Normal fatigue.

b. Excessive heat.

c. Moisture.

Remedies:

a. Replace condenser and check points foi burning or pitting, replace if necessary.

b. Replace condenser and check points for burning or pitting. Refer to Cooling System

Section to correct excessive heat.

c. Replace condenser and check points for burning or pitting. Replace parts as required.

57. FOULED OR BURNED SPARK PLUGS

Possible Causes:

a. Incorrect type of plug.

b. Plugs not sufficiently tight in head.

c. Improperly seating valves.

d. Excessive lean air-fuel mixture.

e. Ignition timing improperly adjusted.

f. Water leaking into combustion chamber.

Remedies: a. Remove incorrect plugs and replace. Make sure gap is .035 inch.

b. Tighten plugs to 32 foot-pounds torque.

178—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

NOTE

Spark plug gaskets are not used on the C-68

C-69, C-70 engine. Tighten the plugs to 82 footpounds torque.

c. Refer to Engine Section for correction of this condition.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL d. Refer to Fuel System Section for adjustment of the carburetor.

e. Refer to paragraph 50, of this Section, for correct ignition timing.

f. Replace cylinder head or gasket, as outlined in Engine Section.

SWITCHES (Figs. 38, 39 and 40)

58. IGNITION STARTER SWITCH (FIG. 38)

The following precautions must be followed when installing accessories such as heaters, radio, spotlight, etc. Use the accessory terminal only on the ignition starter switch and not the ammeter terminal post.

59. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER

To remove ignition lock cylinder, proceed as follows:

(1) Loosen set screw holding switch in instrument panel.

(2) Pull switch assembly out from panel towards firewall enough to allow lock cylinder locking pin to clear instrument panel.

(3) With ignition key in the "on" position, use

(4) pointed punch to push in on cylinder locking pin, while pulling on cylinder.

Remove ignition lock cylinder.

(5) To install the lock cylinder in switch insert key in lock cylinder and turn key to approximately "on" position to line up locking pin with slot in switch housing. Press in on cylinder lock assembly.

(6) Install switch in instrument panel and tighten locking screw.

60. WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH

The windshield wiper switch has a 10 ampere circuit breaker on the 6 volt system and a 6 ampere circuit breaker on the 12 volt system. The armature, field, parking and battery terminals and the circuit breaker are located on the outside of switch, as shown in Figure 39.

BLACK AND YELLOW WIRE

TO STARTER

BROWN WIRE

FROM AMMETER

BLACK WIRE TO RADIO -

BLACK WIRE TO

DEFROSTER SWITCH-

BLACK WIRE TO

HEATER SWITCH-

RED WIRE TO

WINDSHIELD WIPER

SWITCH-

RED WIRE TO

TOP LIFT SWITCH

(CONVERTIBLE ONLY)—

BLUE WIRE TO FUEL GAUGE

RED WIRE TO

HORN RELAY

5 2 x 6 3 1 A

Fig. 38—Ignition and Starter Switch

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BLACK WIRE TO

WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—179

BLUE WIRE TO

WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

YELLOW WIRE TO

WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

RED WIRE NO. 16 TO

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH

10 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER

RED WIRE TO

WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

RED WIRE NO. 12

TO FUEL GAUGE

55X125

YELLOW WIRE TO

PARKING LIGHTS

GREEN WIRE TO

IGNITION LOCK LIGHT

Fig. 39—Windshield Wiper Switch

BLACK WIRE TO

TAIL LIGHTS

RED WIRE TO

INSTRUMENT

LIGHT SWITCH

RED WIRE TO

CLOCK, MAP LIGHT AND

GLOVE COMPARTMENT

LIGHT-RED WIRE TO

TRUNK LIGHT AND

DOME LIGHT-RED

WIRE TO STOP LIGHT

SWITCH

YELLOW WIRE TO FOOT

DIMMER SWITCH

YELLOW WIRE

FROM AMMETER

5 2 x 6 2 9

Fig. 40—Head Light Switch

HORNS

The horns should be inspected periodically for dirt and foreign material that may accumulate in the horn projector. If horns are inoperative or do not have a clear steady tone, they should be removed from their location on the radiator support, the covers taken off, cleaned, and inspected for faulty insulation or soldering, the windings for grounds or open circuits and the diaphragm, armature and contact springs for cracks or distortion before attempting to adjust horns. If contacts are rough or burned, they should be dressed with a fine file or hone.

180—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CONTACTS

ADJUSTING SCREW

LOCK NUT

DO NOT DISTURB

THIS NUT

COVER RETAINING CUPS 5 2 x 3 4 3

Fig. 41—Removing Horn Cover

CAUTION

Do not force the contact points apart as this action may bend or distort the contact springs and change the contact pressure. When tuning a set of horns, each horn must be connected and adjusted separately, then check for tone together.

To Adjust the Horns remove the horns from car, pry the cover retaining clips away from the body of horn, as shown in Figure 41. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise, as shown in Figure 42, until there is no oscillation between the contact points. Turn the adjusting screw approximately *4 turn counterclockwise or until a clear mellow tone is obtained, then tighten locknut. Adjust each horn alike, and test both horns for combined tone.

The high note should draw 14.5 to 15 amperes.

The low note 15 to 15.5 amperes.

ARMATURE SPRING ^ ^T " ^ 5 2 x 3 4 4

Fig. 42—Adjusting Horn

CAUTION

Use care when handling the horn as damage to resistor core may result. The locknut in the center of horn motor should not be loosened as the diaphragm may be damaged in so doing.

Reinstall horn cover, crimp retaining clips to horn body and mount horn (or horns) to radiator support.

Testing Horn Relay. (See Fig. 43.) Ground the horn "SW" terminal at relay. If the horns operate, it indicates that the horns and relay are in good operating condition, but the horn button or wiring is "open." Connect a jumper lead from the starting switch battery terminal to the relay

"B" terminal, then operate horn button. If the horns blow, it indicates faulty wiring from relay to battery.

Connect a jumper wire from the battery terminal to the horn terminal. If the horns blow it inidcates that the relay wiring to the button or horn button is defective.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—181

HORN BUTTON

HORN

TO BATTERY

Fig. 43—Horn Circuit Relay

52x340

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

61. HORNS WILL NOT BLOW

Possible Causes: a. Improper adjustment.

b. Defective relay.

c. Faulty button contact.

d. Broken or defective wiring.

e. Defective horn.

Remedies: a. Adjust horns, as outlined on page 180 of this Section.

b. Replace horn relay after inspection of the old one to determine cause of failure. For testing, refer to page 180 of this Section.

c. Check horn button for operation by grounding the relay control terminal. If horns blow, check button and wiring. Replace parts as required to correct this condition.

d. Inspect wiring for breaks, high resistance or grounds. Repair or replace wiring as necessary.

e. Replace horn assembly, after checking to determine cause of failure.

62. HORNS BLOW CONTINUOUSLY

Possible Causes: a. Shorted horn relay.

b. Shorted wiring.

c. Grounded horn button.

d. Stuck contact points in relay.

Remedies: a. Remove horn button lead from relay

("SW" terminal). If horns still blow, replace relay.

b. Remove horn button lead ("SW" terminal).

182—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

NUTS

SEAT

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

DOOR

CABLE

55x709

Fig. 44—Headlight Assembly (Exploded View)

LIGHTING SYSTEM

63. DESCRIPTION

"Sealed Beam" units, Figure 44, and light bulbs in the external and internal lighting system of the new Chrysler are easy to replace. The turn signal system is combined with the tail lights and parking lights by using double filament bulbs.

The main lighting circuit is protected by three automatic reset circuit breakers. In the event of a "short circuit" or "ground," the circuit breaker will open before damage occurs and will continue to open and close until the trouble clears or is corrected. The circuit breaker will then return and stay in its normal closed position.

64. REPLACING LIGHT BULBS

a. Headlight. Take out the screw from the front lower edge of the headlight door and remove the door. Remove the three retaining screws and remove the ring by pulling it outward. Pull the sealed light unit out and pull the wire connector straight off.

b. Front Parking Light Bulb. Remove the screws, retainer and lens. To remove the bulb, push it in slightly, twist to the left and pull it out of the socket.

c. Remove Stop Light, Tail Light and Turn

Signal Bulb. The change of bulb is made from under the rear compartment lid. Pull the socket and bulb out of rear of lamp. The bulb is then removed by pressing in and turning to left.

d. Back-up Light. Remove the screws that hold down the lens retainer. Lift out the lens and retainer and remove the bulb from the top side of bulb retaining plate. Remove the two screws and lift out the bulb retaining plate to remove the back-up light bulb. Both these bulbs are removed in the same manner as the front parking light bulb.

e. Turn Signal Bulb. Front turn signal bulbs are combined with the parking lights. The rear turn signals are combined with the tail lights

—double filament bulbs, being used. For replacement of these bulbs, see step "c."

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

34x179

Fig. 45—Pattern of Properly Aimed Headlights

1—Upper beam of right headlight

2—Upper beam of both headlights

3—Horizontal line 3 inches below headlight centers

4—Vertical line, in line with center of left headlight

5—Vertical line, in line with windshield center strip and radiator cap

6—Vertical line, in line with center of right headlight

7—Floor level

65. HEADLIGHT AIMING (FIG. 45)

While the sealed beam light unit is prefocused, the unit requires occasional aiming to obtain maximum lighting efficiency. Properly aimed sealed beam headlights insure the maximum of night driving pleasure and safety.

A great many attempts at aiming fail completely because the sensitive aiming adjustment is not fully appreciated. The most important factor in aiming is accuracy. Slight errors in height of headlight beam on a screen 25 feet ahead of car will very noticeably affect road illumination. If beam is aimed 3 inches below a horizontal line on a screen 25 feet ahead of car, it will strike the roadway 250 feet ahead of car.

If aimed 5 inches below horizontal line, it will strike roadway 150 feet ahead of car, resulting in very poor visibility. When aimed 1 inch below horizontal line, beam will strike roadway 750 feet ahead of car, increasing glare in eyes of approaching drivers with a definite loss of visibility, especially when car is loaded.

There are many different types of aiming devices which simplify headlight aiming and proper use of equipment will produce a satisfactory aiming job. Most manufacturers of such equipment furnish complete instructions covering its use. The instructions contained in this

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—183

Shop Manual are based on use of a light colored wall or screen.

The most likely source of error in aiming headlights is the floor of the garage. The floor area used for this operation should be perfectly level, if possible. This means that the area where the screen or other headlight aiming equipment is located should be on exactly the same level as that where the car is placed.

The car should be located so headlights are 25 feet from a light colored wall or aiming screen.

A horizontal line should be placed on this surface at a height 3 inches below headlight centers. A center point should be located on this line by sighting through windshield of vehicle in line with ornament at front of hood and windshield center strip. From this center point, draw two vertical lines at equal distances right and left. The distance between these vertical lines should be the same as the distance between centers of headlights. These two vertical lines should be immediately ahead of and in line with headlights.

If a perfectly level floor is not available, headlights can be satisfactorily aimed by practicing one simple rule:

The height of the horizontal line on aiming screen or wall should be measured from the part of the floor on which the car is standing.

If such a condition exists, a line can be located where it should be by placing a mark on two sticks, or rods, exactly the same distance from one end of each stick as from the floor up to center of headlight. Then, stand both sticks against fenders (one front and one rear) on one side of the car. Stand back of rear stick and sight forward at marks on each stick in a manner similar to sighting a gun. Have someone mark the point on the aiming screen where line of vision strikes wall (25 feet ahead of car).

Repeat operation on other side of car, marking point on wall. Measure down from these marks

3 inches, and connect these two low marks with a straight line which will be exactly the right height and parallel to the plane of the headlight filaments, regardless of whether the car is standing up-grade, down-grade or slanting sidewise.

The intersections of horizontal line and two vertical lines which are directly ahead of light filaments should be the center of the bright

184—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

GROUND

VERTICAL

ADJUSTING

SCREW

HORIZONTAL

ADJUSTING

SCREW

Fig. 46—Headlight Adjustments

4 9 x 6 8 3 spot of each light. Adjust one headlight at a time with other one covered. Adjustment should be made with country (high) beam turned "on."

The traffic (low) beam also will be aimed properly. Do not use traffic beam for aiming lights.

NOTE

In most cases, headlights should be aimed as specified herein. Where state or local laws differ from these specifications, the headlights should be aimed to conform with such laws.

To adjust headlight beams, see Figure 46 and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove screw at bottom of headlight rim and unhook rim at top by pulling it outward.

(2) To raise or lower beam, turn adjusting screw on center at top (or bottom, as the case may be) of headlight frame.

(3) To move beam to right or left, turn adjusting screw at right side of headlight frame.

66. TESTING VOLTAGE AT HEADLIGHTS

One of the factors affecting headlight efficiency is voltage. Headlight voltage must be measured with the lights burning.

Remove headlight rim and, with sealed beam unit partially removed from its mounting seat, attach leads of a reliable voltmeter to prongs of sealed beam unit, while it is still inserted in connefctor socket.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

With sealed beam unit in its correct position, top prong supplies current for traffic beam. One of side prongs supplies current for country beam and other is the ground connection.

After engine has been stopped and lights have burned for five minutes, voltage at headlights (with country beam filament burning) should not be less than 5.25 volts. With lights burning and engine warmed up and running at a speed equivalent to a car speed of about 20

M.P.H., voltage at headlights should be not less than 6.3 volts, nor more than 6.9 volts (with battery and generator at room temperature, approximately 70° F.).

If voltage is low at either headlight socket

(with only standard equipment in the circuit), proceed as follows:

Test voltage output of battery—it should be

6 to 6.5 volts. Clean and tighten battery terminals and ground cable. Check wires and connections to all lights, main headlight switch, and dimmer switch for high resistance. When a voltmeter is placed between ground and input side of a switch and then between ground and output side of switch (with lights burning) the difference in readings will represent voltage drop in switch. The same method may be used in checking voltage drop in wires by taking a reading at each end of wire. A switch showing a voltage drop of more than one-tenth of a volt, or a wire showing a voltage drop of one-tenth of a volt, should be replaced. If any wire in the lighting circuit has been replaced with other than standard equipment wire, it may lack capacity and cause voltage drop. The most important wire in entire primary circuit is the wire that is connected from starter switch to ammeter because it must carry full load of all branching circuits.

67. ENTRANCE UGHTS

Two lamps are provided in the front compartment. The right lamp is controlled by a door switch, or by a switch located under left side of instrument panel for map reading, etc. With ignition key turned on, the left light serves as a flasher warning signal indicating that theparking brake has not been released.

68. INSPECTING LIGHTING CIRCUIT WIRING

The wiring in the lighting circuit should be periodically inspected for loose connections* chafed or worn insulation and for corroded con-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL nections or terminals. Special examination should be made at all terminal junction blocks. Inspect the switches, bulb sockets and lamp shells for loose mountings and corrosion. Clean and tighten where necessary to make a good contact and to eliminate the loss of efficiency due to poor or dirty connections.

NOTE

When replacing ivires in the lighting system, be sure to use ivires of the same size. Refer to the wiring diagram (Fig. 1*7) for wire sizes.

69. TURN SIGNAL (FIG. 47)

The turn signal is simple to operate because of its automatic switch which returns to the "off" position while the turn is being completed.

To signal for a right turn, the switch lever under the left side of the steering wheel is moved up in the direction of steering wheel rotation.

With the switch lever in this position, the circuit for the right front and right rear signal lights is connected, flashing a warning signal to other drivers. Signalling for a left turn is accomplished by moving the switch lever down.

The switch, mounted on the steering column under the steering wheel hub, contains two specially shaped pawls which are actuated by the prongs of a ring pressed in the hub of the steering column. When the switch lever is in the "off" position, a small amount of clearance exists between the switch pawls and the prongs of the ring, so that the steering wheel can be turned in either direction without actuating the switch.

When the switch lever is moved manually for a right or left turn signal, one of the switch pawls moves in position to engage the prongs of the ring. The prong then ratchets over the switch pawl and when the steering wheel is returned to the straight-ahead position, the prong engages the switch pawl and returns it and the switch lever to the "off" position.

70. POWER WINDOW LIFT

For service information concerning the Power

Window Lift refer to Paragraph 93 of this

Section.

71. BODY WIRING (FIGS. 48 AND 49) a. Directional Signal Wires

The front directional signal lights, head and parking light wires are assembled in the chassis

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—185 harness wiring and strung along the dash from switches to left cowl through firewall to terminal block on radiator yoke and from there to lamps.

The rear signal light, trunk, back-up, parking dome and rear courtesy lights (if so equipped) are assembled in the body wiring harness and strung up through the left A post of the windshield along the left side of body roof rail and out to rear compartment to lights on the early production cars and along the floor to the rear compartment on the later production cars.

b. Dome Light Wires

The dome light wires are assembled in body harness wires, and strung up the front A post along roof rail, and branches off at B post to dome light or along the floor to B post then up B post to dome light. On cars equipped with two dome lights the other wires branch off the body harness at rear quarter panel to switch.

c. Windshield Wiper Switch Wires

There are four wires feeding into the wiper switch. One from the accessories terminal on ignition switch and three from the wiper motor.

d. Horn Wire

The horn wire from steering column tube goes to the relay on left fender side shield. NOTE:

Horn wires do not go to terminal block.

e. Ignition Switch Wires

The number of accessories with which a car is equipped determine the number of wires on the ignition switch terminals. Because a feed wire is needed for each accessory. The permanent wires are as follows: One from starter relay to ignition switch and another from switch to ignition coil. The wires are grouped in the chassis wiring harness and strung through firewall into engine compartment.

f. Flasher Wires

There are two wires connected to the flasher, one from the horn relay located on thhe left fender side shield in engine compartment, and the other to turn signal switch.

g. Map light Wires

Map light wires are strung along the instrument panel from wire connector to switches to both front A posts. On cars equipped with courtesy lights, feed wires branch from the main harness

\ | ^ - 1 6 BROWN-

YELLOW—,

GLOVE COMPARTMENT LIGHT AND SWITCH

RIGHT FRONT DOOR cwn-ru

^ „ /

16 YELLOW F *

RIGHT TURN SIGNAL AND STOP LIGHT

LEFT BACK-UP LIGHT

16 BLACK mn

LEFT PARKING A N D TURN SIGNAL LIGHT

HAND BRAKE SWITCH

LEFT FRONT AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

HEADLIGHT SWITCH

H: 20 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER

T A N D I N . : 10 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER

A C C : 10 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER

LEFT REAR AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

16 YELLOW

55x701

Fig. 47—Lighting and Turn Signal System (Models C-67, C-68 and C-69 Only)

QUARTER LIGHTS

RIGHT STOP AND TURN SIGNAL-BROWN WIRE

RIGHT TAIL LIGHT-BLACK WIRE

GAS GAUGE-BLUE WIRE

TRUNK LIGHT-RED WIRE

LEFT STOP AND TURN SIGNAL-

GREEN WIRE

HEADLIGHT SWITCH ACCESSORY

TERMINAL-RED WIRE

HEADLIGHT SWITCH TO

TAIL LAMP CONNECTOR -

BLACK WIRE

TURN SIGNAL TO STOP

LIGHT CONNECTOR-GREEN

AND BROWN WIRE

BACK-UP LIGHT-BLACK'

AND YELLOW WIRE

GAS GAUGE-BLUE WIRE

CONNECTOR TO INSTRUMENT

PANEL WIRE-YELLOW WIRE

CIRCUIT BREAKER

DOWN, TOP LIFT SWITCH-BLACK WIRE

UP, TOP LIFT SWITCH-GREEN WIRE

AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

FOrf MAP LIGHT AND

QUARTER LIGHTS

TOP LIFT WIRING CABLES

BACK-UP LIGHT SINGLE CONNECTORS

MAIN BODY WIRING HARNESS

WINDOW LIFT RELAY

CONNECTOR TO

TOP LIFT MOTOR-

BLACK & GREEN WIRES

CONNECTOR TO

QUARTER LIGHT W I R I N G -

RED WIRE & YELLOW WIRE

55x74

Fig. 48—Body Wiring (Including Convertibles)

188—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL at rear quarter panel to lamp and rear door switches.

h. Back-up Light Wires

Back-up light wires are strung along the instrument panel to left cowl panel through firewall from accessories terminal on ignition switch to back-up light switch on transmission and from transmission to rear lamps.

i. Trunk light Wires

The trunk compartment light wiring is also in-

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—189 cluded in the above harness, but branches off at the rear of deck lid.

j . Circuit Breakers

There is one 10 and one 27 ampere circuit breaker located in the head lamp switch.

k. Windshield Wiper

Windshield wiper circuit contains one 10 ampere circuit breaker in 6 volt system and 6 ampere in 12 volt system located on wiper switch.

72. LIGHTS DO NOT BURN

Possible Causes: a. Burned out bulb or unit.

b. Defective wiring.

c. Defective light switch.

d. Loose connections.

e. Run down battery.

Remedies: a. Replace burned out bulbs or sealed beam units, after checking voltage at socket. Refer to specifications for correct replacement part and to Paragraph 66, of this Section for testing voltage at headlights.

b. Check for defective wiring, as outlined in

Paragraph 71, of this Section. Replace as required.

c. Replace defective light switch after inspection and testing to determine cause of failure.

d. Clean and tighten connections (note especially the connections at the various junction blocks) as necessary to correct this condition.

e. Test specific gravity of battery, recharge and test voltage regulator for output. Adjust, as outlined in Paragraph 25, of this Section.

73. LIGHTS FUCKER

Possible Causes: a. Loose connections.

b. Poor ground at light socket.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Remedies: a. Clean and tighten connections, as necessary, to correct this condition.

b. Inspect bulb sockets for dirt or corrosion, check ground connections, clean and tighten, as required. Test ground connections for voltage drop, as outlined in Paragraph 66, of this Section.

74. BULBS BURN OUT FREQUENTLY

Possible Causes: a. Excessive battery voltage.

b. High charging rate.

c. Poor ground at light socket.

d. Incorrect type of bulb.

Remedies: a. Replace burned out bulbs, and test battery, as outlined in Paragraph 35, of this Section.

b. Replace burned out bulbs if required. Then, test voltage regulator, as outlined in paragraph

25, of this Section. Adjust as necessary to correct this condition.

c. Inspect bulb sockets for dirt or corrosion, check ground connection, clean and tighten, as required. Test ground connection for voltage drop, as outlined in Paragraph 73, of this Section.

NOTE

Whenever replacing a wire in the lighting circuit, use only standard equipment wire.

d. When replacing burned out bulbs, use only those recommended in Data and Specifications.

190—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

75. DESCRIPTION (FIG. 50)

The variable speed motor is a split field, compound wound, reversible motor which makes possible the off-glass parking feature. The wiper also contains a newly designed cam spring in the gear box for actuating the off-glass parking switch, and an eccentric in the connecting link, at the wiper crank pivot, which automatically lengthens the links making the off-glass parking position possible.

NOTE

Parking of the individual blades, in relation to each other, is accomplished by loosening up the nut attaching the wiper arm to the pivot and then moving the wiper arm to the desired position, then tightening the nut.

76. OPERATION a. Operation of Link Cam

(1) As the wiper crank arm pivot or pin is rotated, the coil spring (which is installed on the pin and is undersize in relation to the pin) is forced to rotate, causing the spring release and parking cam to be rotated by the end of the spring until the parking cam butts up against the stop provided in the link.

(2) When the parking cam reaches the stop, the spring release is also held stationary.

(3) Pressure now applied by the spring against the spring release causes it to tend to uncoil the spring, thus releasing the braking action on the crank arm pivot, permitting

- BLADE

- — WASHER

- RETAINER

GASKET

CLAMP

SCREW & WASHER

ARM

BRUSH & SPRING PKG

W t * " V l l ! L - - ~ SWITCH

-KNOB hg. 50—Windshield Wipers (Exploded View)

~ SWITCH PLATF ASSY

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the pivot to turn freely in its complete cycle of operation.

NOTE

When parking cam has been rotated into position for normal operation of the windshield wiper, the crank pin retaining hole in the cam will be facing the far end of the connecting link and in direct line with it. When in this position, the effective travel of the link has been shortened so that it will permit windshield wiping without striking the ivindshield moulding.

(4) When the off-glass parking switch is actuated and the motor reverses, the pressure on the end of the coil spring is released, causing it to wind and tighten itself against the crank arm pivot.

(5) As the pivot is rotated in the opposite direction, the other end of the coil spring applies pressure against the spring release, causing it to rotate with the parking cam until the parking cam contacts the link stop. When this has occurred, the parking cam will have rotated 180 degrees so that the cam pivot retaining hole is now toward the short end and in line with the link, resulting in automatically lengthening the link to permit offglass parking.

(6) As the parking cam reaches the stop, the same action as previously described occurs.

The spring release causes the coil spring to expand and allows the crank pivot to turn freely within the coil spring.

b. Operation of the Parking Switch

(1) When the wiper is operating normally, the cam spring rotates beneath the projection on the switch plate and does not come in contact with the nylon cut-off switch plunger.

(2) When the wiper is shut off the motor will reverse, causing the cam spring to go under the projection at the bottom of the switch plate, forcing the spring up until the end of its travel is reached, at which time the cam spring pushes against the switch plunger opening the contact points and shutting off the wiper.

(3) During this process of reversing the motor, the parking link cams are rotated to lengthen the connecting links so that they will be

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—191 of sufficient length to provide off-glass parking by the time the cam spring has caused the contact points to open shutting off the wiper.

NOTE

Due to the design which requires the motor switch cam spring to reverse and slide under the switch plate projection before turning off the switch, the wiper blades will have a natural tendency (when turning off the wiper switch) to start to park, then reverse their direction to the full extent of their far travel to park.

77. WIPER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL

(REFER TO FIG. 50)

Due to restricted room to properly assemble the eccentrics at the crank arm link ends, it will be necessary to remove the windshield wiper assembly as a unit whenever the wiper or links are to be serviced.

CAUTION

Before attempting to remove the wiper motor for complete disassembly, the wiper should be operated and then shut off by disconnecting at the circuit breaker behind the dash panel control sivitch or by turning off the ignition kay. Failure to observe this precaution will result in irreparable damage to the motor switch and spring parking cam when the switch cover is removed.

(1) Disconnect wiper motor.

(2) Remove left-hand fresh air door.

(3) Remove the clips that hold the links to the pivot cranks. Clips are removed by lifting top tab and sliding sideways out of engagement with the groove in the pivot crank pin.

(4) Remove brass spacing washer.

(5) Slip end of link containing nylon ball bushing off pivot crank pin.

(6) Remove the three windshield wiper bracket to dash panel retaining nuts and remove wiper motor bracket and links as an assembly. A thick rubber gasket is assembled between the motor bracket and the dash panel to reduce noise.

78. DISASSEMBLY of WINDSHIELD WIPER

LINKS

(1) With the motor and link assembly lying

192—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM on a clean bench, remove the clip that holds the left-hand link to the crank arm.

(2) Remove the bevel washers.

(3) Carefully remove the link. The pivot end of the link is provided with a stop to prevent the wipers from going over the center and locking.

(4) Remove the parking cam.

(5) Remove the spring release.

(6) Remove the coil spring around the pin by spreading the spring ends apart. Spreading the spring ends will cause the spring to expand, allowing it to be removed from the shaft.

(7) Remove the spring washer.

NOTE

The right-hand link is disassembled in the same manner after removing the crank arm to crank lever retaining nut and removing the brass spacing washers between the link and the crank arm and crank lever.

Having removed the links to clean the switch contacts, should it be required, or to replace the wiper switch or spring cam, disassembly of the wiper motor can be accomplished as follows:

(1) Remove the switch cover.

(2) Remove the switch plate.

NOTE

Should an attempt be made to disassemble the switch while the wiper is in the park position, the cam spring would be under the projection at the bottom of the switch plate, and extreme force would be required to disassemble it, resulting in damage to the switch and cam spring.

(3) Observe the position of the cam spring, then remove it.

79. REASSEMBLY OF MOTOR SWITCH

(1) Make sure the gear box contains lubricant, then install the parking switch cam spring so that it will engage with the nylon drive gear and the top end of the spring points in the same direction as the crank arm.

(2) Install motor switch plate.

(3) Install switch cover.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

80. REASSEMBLY OF WINDSHIELD WIPER

LINK

(1) Install spring washer, concave surface towards the crank arm.

(2) Compress ends of crank pivot coil spring to expand, then install on the pivot. Springs are interchangeable.

(3) Install spring release. Spring releases are interchangeable.

(4) Install parking cam so that it will index with the spring release and engage the ends of the spring between the spring release and parking cam in the openings at the point of index.

CAUTION

While the parking cam is interchangeable, the face of the cam marked

L" must be away from the link ivhen installed on the left link, while the face of the cam marked "R" must be away from the link when installed on the right link. Or when assembling to the left link, both the "L" on the left crank and on the parking cam should be seen. This is also true for the right link; both the "R" on the crank and on the parking cam should be seen.

(5) Install spring washer, convex surface towards the cam assembly.

(6) Install link arm with the stop projection on the link arms towards the cam assembly.

(7) Install retaining bolt and nut.

Reassemble left link and cam assembly to crank lever pivot in the same manner, locking in place with a slip instead of the retaining bolt.

NOTE

Should windshield pivot replacement be necessary, it should be accomplished in the following manner while the windshield iviper assembly is removed:

(1) Remove the wiper blade.

(2) From under the dash, remove the two pivot retaining bolts and bellville washers. Re- taining plate should drop off when bolts are removed.

(3) Remove the pivot from the outside and remove the gasket.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

81. INSTALLING NEW PIVOT

(1) Install new gasket.

(2) Install pivot.

(S) Install pivot retaining plate under dash.

(4) Install bellville washers on cap screws so that the convex surface is against the head of the bolt. The use of, and proper installation of, the bellville washers is important as these washers can take up to .015 inch slack, as the bolt torque is reduced by the gasket taking a permanent set.

(5) Install retaining bolts and washers and tighten to 75 inch-pounds torque. This is important to assure proper tension on the bellville washers and to reduce the possibility of a water leak occurring at that point.

(6) Reinstall wiper blade.

82. REINSTALLATION OF WINDSHIELD WIPER

MOTOR BRACKET AND LINK ASSEMBLY

(1) Work links up behind the dash panel and attach to the pivot crank pins.

(2) Install the brass spacing washer.

(3) Install lock clips on the pivot crank pins.

(4) Make sure the wiper bracket to the dash panel rubber gasket is in place, then install windshield wiper motor and bracket assembly.

(5) Tighten retaining nuts to 25 inch-pounds torque.

CAUTION

Do not overtighten, causing rubber gasket to be excessively compressed as it will permit transmission of wiper noise.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—193

•16 BLACK

16 BLUE-

16 RED-

16 YELLOW-

VARIABLE SPEED

WINDSHIELD WIPER

MOTOR SWITCH

F.2

VARIABLE SPEED

WINDSHIELD WIPER

10 AMP.

CIRCUIT BREAKER

FUEL R E D

GAUGE

Fig. 51—Wiring Diagram of Wiper Circuit

55P1065

(6) Reinstall fresh air door and adjust.

(7) Adjust wiper parking position, if necessary, by moving the cam adjustment lever which sticks out of the switch cover.

(8) Connect up the four lead wires from the wiper motor to the wiper control switch, as shown in Figure 51.

Blue wire to the "P" terminal on the control switch.

Black wire to the "A" terminal on the control switch.

Red wire to the " F l " terminal on the control switch.

Yellow wire to the "F2" terminal on the control switch.

The hot lead wire is attached to the circuit breaker.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Before disassembling wiper motor, note the relationship between the parking switch, cam and crank arms.

WARNING

Use care when handling the worm follower gears, as the fine teeth are easily damaged.

83. SERVICING MOTOR a. Inspection

Thoroughly inspect motor parts for wear, corrosion or damage. Clean the armature commutator with 00 to 000 sandpaper, or if necessary, turn down the commutator and undercut the bakelite as described below. Worn or oil soaked brushes must be replaced. Check the play of the armature and crank arm shafts in their respective bushings and replace worn parts, if any looseness can be detected. Inspect the worm follower gears for broken or chipped teeth, replacing those showing damage or excessive wear.

b. Refacing Commutator

If the armature commutator is rough, out-of-

194—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ARMATURE CUTTING TOOL SPECIAL CHUCK

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

UNDERCUTTING

TOOL

UNDERCUTTING

TOOL —

49x692

Fig. 52—Turning Down Commutator round, burned or the bakelite is even with, or extends above the surface of the commutator, turn the commutator down, using turning and undercutting Tool C-770, with special chuck

SP-837, cutting Tool SP-838 and blade, as shown in Figure 52, or a lathe. Remove only sufficient metal to give a smooth clean surface.

c. Undercutting Bakelite

Undercut the bakelite segments to a depth of

inch, using Tool C-770, with special blade

SP-839, as shown in Figure 53, or a fine tooth hacksaw blade. Be sure to undercut the bakelite square. After undercutting, polish the commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper to remove possible burred edges.

Fig. 53—Undercutting Bakelite d. Assembly

Assemble the frame, armature and heads, being careful to raise brushes to allow entrance of commutator. Check armature end play, then adjust by expanding or contracting the bridge, carrying the end thrust bushing by use of adjusting screw provided to correct end play until the desired clearance of .005 to .010 inch is obtained.

Rap motor frame several sharp blows with a rubber hammer to align the bushings and then make sure the armature turns easily without binding.

NOTE

Be sure commutator is clean and free from oil or grease. A dirty, greasy commutator will cause a high resistance and greatly impair the efficiency of the wiper.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

CONDITIONS — POSSIBLE CAUSES

84. WIPER OPERATES SLOWLY

Possible Causes: a. High resistance in brush to commutator contact, or carbon deposits in slots.

b. High resistance in ground connection.

c. Pivot shaft binding.

d. Defective control switch.

e. Worn or damaged motor.

85. WIPER FAILS TO OPERATE

Possible Causes: a. Binding linkage.

b. Defective switch.

c. Defective motor.

d. Open or grounded wiring.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

86. SHORT SERVICE LIFE OF BLADES

Possible Causes:

a. Bent wiper blade arms.

b. Local climatic conditions.

c. Road splash containing deteriorating materials.

87. NOISY WIPER MOTOR

Possible Causes:

a. Motor to bracket or bracket to dash panel retaining screws torqued too tight.

b. Excessive armature shaft end play.

CAUTION

If adjustment of the armature end play is made, the free running amperage draw of the wiper motor should be checked. Under no circumstances should the amperage draw exceed 5 to

7 amperes.

88. BLADES STRIKE MOULDING AND

PARK HIGH

Possible Causes:

a. Parking cam in link installed 180 degrees out of place (off-glass parking wiper only).

b. Spring release in link parking cam improperly installed (off-glass parking wiper only).

c. Motor field leads at dash control switch reversed (off-glass parking wiper only).

89. WIPER WILL NOT START

Possible Causes: a. Field leads loose on control switch.

b. Switch housing not grounded to dash panel.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—195

90. WIPER WILL NOT PARK IN OFF-GLASS

POSITION (OFF-GLASS PARKING

WIPER ONLY)

Possible Causes:

a. Broken link coil spring that operates parking cam.

b. Link coil spring release missing.

c. Broken or bent spring release finger on link.

91. WIPER BLADES PARK EARLY OR LATE

Possible Cause:

a. Adjust plate on motor switch, clockwise to park later and counter-clockwise to park earlier.

92. BLADE CHATTERS IN ONE DIRECTION,

SCRAPES GLASS IN OTHER

Possible Causes:

a. Wiper arm has a torsional bend.

NOTE

Turn tvipers on, and stop in vertical position by turning off key. Remove blades, allow seats to rest against glass. If both sides of saddle do not contact glass within thickness of a piece of note paper, use two pairs of pliers to bend the arm until they do.

b. Incorrect wiper blades.

CAUTION

Due to specially designed blades for use on our curved windshields, only the blades available through MOPAR should be used.

RIGHT FRONT DOOR SWITCH

TO BATTERY POST OF

'STARTER SOLENOID OR RELAY

#1 CIRCUIT BREAKER (FRONT) 20 AMP.

RIGHT REAR QUARTER MOTOR

T FRONT DOOR MOTOR

12F BLACK"

12 WHITE

LEFT FRONT DOOR MOTOR

RIGHT REAR QUARTER SWITCH

16 YELLOW

RELAY. UP

16 BLACK

LEFT REAR QUARTER MOTOR

BLUE

#2 CIRCUIT BREAKER

(REAR) 3 0 AMP.

•8 GREEN

16F-E3-ORANGE SLEEVE-

1 6 F - S - B R O W N SLEEVE-

16F-Q-GREEN SLEEVE—

ALL 16F CABLES WHITE

WITH RED TRACER

Fig. 54—Power Window Lift (Convertible and Special Club Coupe)

54x764

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—197

I i

CL u

198—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

POWER WINDOW LIFTS

93. DESCRIPTION

There are three component parts in the basic

Power Window Lift circuit: a circuit breaker, a motor, and a switch. The relay has been eliminated and the switch now carries the full amperage load of the motor, except on Convertible and

Club Coupe rear quarter windows which still have a relay.

Power window lift circuits are protected by circuit breakers which are located behind the left front kick panel. One circuit breaker controls the front window circuit, while the other controls the rear window circuit.

NOTE

30 ampere circuit breakers are used with relay circuits and 20 ampere circuit breakers are used in circuits without relays.

94. WIRING (FIGS. 54 AND 55)

In wiring, the circuit breakers are fed from the battery solenoid by a No. 6 cable and paralleled with a brass jumper. From the circuit breakers to door switches and motors a No. 12 harness

(super-flex) is used. The wiring harness is clipped to the door hinges and is looped sufficiently to accommodate opening and closing of doors. Should harness be removed for any reason it should be looped sufficiently upon reinstalling to permit opening and closing of doors.

CAUTION

Do not allow an excessive loop as this ivill cause harness to take a permanent set which in turn will cause wires to bend at this point and eventually break.

be stopped in any position by releasing the switch lever.

The wiring connections on all switches are set screws. There is one wire from the circuit breaker to the master switch and 8 wires (2 each) leaving the master switch to the doors.

The wires leaving the master switch are connected directly to the motors. The individual switches on the right side are connected directly to the circuit breaker. The individual switch on the left side is connected to the circuit breaker through the master switch.

The harness for the right rear door is carried along back of the front seat on the floor pan. The harness for the right front door is carried across the firewall. The motors require no lubrication.

In the motor wiring, the top lead (one nearest coupling) is used to raise the window and the bottom lead to lower the window. The normal 6 volt amperage draw when operating window is

20-25 amperes, this will vary with voltage.

95. REMOVAL OF WINDOW LIFT

(1) Disconnect battery.

(2) Remove garnish moulding. Remove door handle control and escutcheon plate. Remove arm rest and window lift control switch.

Remove door trim panel.

(3) Remove wires from motor. Remove clips from regulator pins holding lower glass channel.

(4) Raise glass manually and prop the glass.

Raise glass before loosening cap screws so that it is out of the working area. Remove the four regulator to door attaching cap screws. Remove the pivot guide retaining pin. Lower motor and regulator assembly out through opening in the door.

There are 4 switches used to control the window lifts, a master switch which is located on the left front door and one individual switch for each of the windows. The master switch on the left front door is actually a group of switches of the same type as those used on each door. Each switch of the master switch group is hooked in parallel with the window switch it controls.

Each window switch is connected so that when the switch lever is pushed up, the window is raised, and, when the switch lever is pushed down, the window is lowered. The window can

CAUTION

If gear box is to be replaced, remove regulator counter balance spring before removing. The coiinter balance spring has approximately 220 degrees of wrap, use large pair of pliers when removing. Failure to remove spring before disassembly of gear box can result in personal injury.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The gear box which is replaced as an assembly, consists of a worm and worm gear. The worm gear drives a pinion which is meshed with the regulator sector gear. The gear box is lubricated at the time of assembly and should not require any further lubrication. Use Lubriplate 105 light weight on all other movable parts.

96. INSTALLATION OF WINDOW LIFT

(1) Place motor and regulator assembly through opening in door. Insert intermediate pivot arm pin into guide inside of door shell—THERE IS NO CLIP. Install the four regulator attaching screws finger tight.

NOTE

After installing the regulator retaining screws check to see that the intermediate pivot arm did not slip out of the guide during installation.

This can happen very easily.

(2) Remove window prop, lower glass and insert control arms into glass channel, using a leather washer on each side of channel, secure with clip.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—199

NOTE

Control arms can be inserted into glass channel only when glass is in lowered position.

(3) Connect wires to motor and connect battery.

(4) Operate window up and down several times to help align glass in the channel, then stop window halfway and tighten the four regulator attaching screws.

(5) Check glass for alignment. Connect an ammeter into electrical circuit and operate window. The ammeter reading should be constant without fluctuation. (Coupes and

Sedans 22 amperes.) (Hardtops and Convertible rear quarter 28 amperes.) If reading fluctuates, it is an indication there is a bind either in glass or linkage. Down stop should be adjusted so window is flush with garnish molding.

(6) Replace trim panel, garnish molding and other parts in reverse order as done during removal.

POWER SEAT LIFTS

97. DESCRIPTION

The power seat may be moved four ways, fore, aft, up and down.

The power seat is driven by two motors which are located under the front seat. One motor is used for vertical movement and the other for horizontal movement. (See Figs. 56 and 57.)

The motors operate a worm shaft and sleeve through a worm head. The control switch assembly is located on the left side of the front seat and wired through a 30 ampere circuit breaker which is located adjacent to the window lift circuit breakers behind the left front kick panel.

The wire from the starter solenoid supplies the power to the circuit breaker. (The circuit breaker has sufficient capacity to permit operation of both motors at one time.) If vehicle is also equipped with electric windows, then power is supplied by a brass jumper paralleled with the window lift circuit breakers. A wire supplies the power from the circuit breaker to the relays on the motors. From each relay there are two wires to the control switch. The switch grounds one or the other of the control wires which closes the circuit. The left motor adjusts the seat vertically. The wiring harness to the right motor is looped to permit up and down movement. The horizontal control unit motor being stationary requires no loop but harness is installed in back of seat track on floor pan to prevent cutting of wires.

CAUTION

Be sure to clip wire harness securely so that wires will not be pinched when track is in extreme lower back position. The tracks are replaceable only as an assembly and are not interchangeable from right to left, also they are not adjustable.

200—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

POWER LINK PIN

WIRING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

HORIZONTAL MOTOR AND RELAY

SEAT CONTROL SWITCH

VERTICAL MOTOR AND RELAY

SHAFT AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY

SEAT GUIDE-

Fig. 56—Power Unit of Power Seat Assembly

VERTICAL ADJUSTING UNIT

HORIZONTAL ADJUSTING UNIT

STARTER RELAY, SOLENOID OR TERMINAL BLOCK

6 BLACK QP

8 RED

30 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER 4-WAY SEAT, ADJUSTING SWITCH

16 RED

REAR VIEW

54x729

16 BLUE 1

54x730

Fig. 57—Wiring Diagram (Power Seat)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The horizontal travel is 5 inches, the vertical travel is 1% inches at front and 2 inches at the rear. The horizontal plane of the seat track is inclined 11 degrees.

98. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY

(1) Remove front cushion. Disconnect battery.

Disconnect seat adjuster control wires to relays.

(2) Remove floor pan to seat guide attaching cap screws and remove guide from seat assembly.

To install, repeat procedure followed during removal, only in reverse order.

99. REPLACING LEFT SEAT GUIDE AND

VERTICAL POWER UNIT (Without Removal of Front Seat Assembly From Car) a. Removal

Remove front seat cushion. Disconnect battery and seat adjuster control wires to relays.

CAUTION

To facilitate the removal of vertical bar clevis pin the front seat assembly should be elevated to the highest position of travel and blocked before attempting removal of pin.

(1) Remove vertical bar pins attaching the vertical power unit shaft and sleeve to front seat frame.

(2) Remove power link pin. Disconnect the motor to relay lead wires.

(3) Remove floor pan to seat guide attaching cap screws and remove guide from seat assembly.

b. Installation

(1) When replacing the vertical power unit, adjust the power unit to the two pins (adjustment made by turning unit coupling).

Then the rear of the unit on the rear pin and secure.

(2) Raise seat manually by turning front torque bar. Install front end of unit into torque bar bracket, attach clevis pin and secure.

NOTE

The length of the unit may be varied by turning the coupling manually.

(3) Replace wires to terminals on relay. Connect battery and check seat operation. Replace seat cushion.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—201

100. REPLACING HORIZONTAL POWER UNIT

AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY

(1) Remove front seat cushion. Disconnect battery and seat adjuster control wires to relays. Remove horizontal power unit retaining snap rings.

CAUTION

To facilitate the removal of horizontal bar clevis pins the seat assembly should be lowered to the lowest point before attempting removal of unit.

(2) Disconnect relay lead wires to motor and remove the horizontal power unit assembly.

101. REMOVAL OF SEAT TRACKS

NOTE

Seat tracks will be serviced only as an assembly, as are the individual torque rods. Either the right or left seat tracks can be replaced independently.

Remove jack assemblies. Remove the two rear and front retaining bolts that hold the seat track to the floor pan. Slide seat track outward causing it to disengage from the two horizontal torque rods.

NOTE

When removing the right seat track it will be necessary to disengage one connecting link from a pivot pin.

102. INSTALLATION OF SEAT TRACKS

(1) Engage the seat torque rods in the seat track assembly. Install rear seat track retaining screws but do not tighten. Install jacks and operate in all directions to obtain proper alignment between the seat tracks and the horizontal torque rods.

(2) Tighten front seat track retaining screws.

Raise seat and tighten rear seat track retaining screws.

NOTE

The vertical power unit shaft is equipped with a ball nut and should not be lubricated. The horizontal power unit shaft is equipped with a friction nut that is packed with life-time grease requiring no further lubrication.

When the seat tracks are properly aligned the normal running current with no load is as follows: 28 amperes on the vertical unit and 24 amperes on the horizontal unit.

202—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70 C-300

ENGINE

Type

Number of Cylinders

Bore

Stroke

Piston Displacement

Taxable Horsepower ( A M A ) . . . .

Compression Ratio

Maximum Brake Horsepower. . .

Compression Pressure at 150 rpm

(plugs removed) Wide Open

Throttle

Maximum Variation Between

Cylinders (any one engine). . .

Firing Order

V 90°

3 % in.

300 cu. in.

42.05

8.0 to 1

188 at 4400

130 to 160

15 lbs.

l.g-4-3-6-5-7-2

V 90°

3i %

in.

3 % in.

331.1 cu. in.

46.51

8.5 to 1

250 at 4600

140 to 170

15 lbs.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

CYLINDER NUMBERING—

From Front of Engine

Left Bank

Right Bank

1-3-5-7

2-4-6-8

1-3-5-7

2-4-6-8

ENGINE WEIGHTS

Weight of Engine (dry) 691 lbs.

729 lbs. (C-68)

744 lbs. (C-69, C-70)

Weight of Power Plant Assembly

(dry) 879 lbs. w/Std. Trans. 962 lbs. (C-68)

9091bs.w/PowerFlite 980 lbs. (C-69, C-70)

Trans.

V 90°

%o in.

3 % in.

331.1 cu. in.

46.51

8.5 to 1

300 at 5200

140 to 170

15 lbs.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-3-5-7

2-4-6-8

735 lbs.

968 lbs.

CRANKSHAFT

Type

Bearings

Journal Diameter

Crank Pin Diameter

Maximum Out-of-Round

Permissible

Number Main Bearings

Diameter Clearance (Desired). .

Fully Counter-

Balanced

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

2.4995 to 2.5005 in.

2.249 to 2.250 in.

Fully Counter-

Balanced

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

2.4995 to 2.5005 in.

2.249 to 2.250 in.

Fully Counter-

Balanced

Tri-metal No. 2 & 4

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

Nos. 1, 3, &5

2.4995 to 2.5005 in.

2.249 to 2.250 in.

.001 in.

.0005 to .0015 in.

.001 in.

.0005 to .0015 in.

.001 in.

.0005 to .0015 in.

(Babbitt)

.001 to .0025 in.

(Tri-metal)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—203

ENGINE (Cont'd)

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70 C-300

Maximum Allowable

End Play

Thrust Taken by

Finish at Rear Seal Surface..,

Interchangeability of Bearings

.0025 in.

.002 to .007 in.

No. 3 Main Bearing

Diagonal Knurling

Upper and Lower

Nos. 1, 2, 4

Upper and Lower

No. 3

Upper and Lower not Interchangeable

No. 5

.0025 in.

.002 to .007 in.

No. 3 Main Bearing

Diagonal Knurling

Upper and Lower

Nos. 1, 2, 4

Upper and Lower

No. 3

Upper and Lower not Interchangeable

No. 5

.0025 in.

.002 to .007 in.

No. 3 Main Bearing

Diagonal Knurling

Upper and Lower

Nos. 1, 2, 4

Upper and Lower

No. 3

Upper and Lower not Interchangeable

No. 5

BEARING SIZES

Diameter and Length No.

No.

2.5 x .875 in.

2.5 x .870 in.

2.5 x .875 in.

2.5 x 1.595 in.

2.5 x .875 in.

2.5 x .870 in.

2.5 x .875 in.

2.5 x 1.595 in.

MAIN BEARINGS (service) All

Available in Standard and the

Following Undersizes .001, .002, .003,

.010, .012 in.

MAIN BEARING JOURNALS

Diameter

Maximum Allowable Out-of-

Round

Maximum Allowable Taper

Center Bearing Run-Out

(total indicator reading)

When Supported at Front and

Rear Main Bearing

2.4995 to 2.5005 in,

.001 in.

.002 in.

.001, .002, .003,

.010, .012 in.

2.4995 to 2.5005 in.

.001 in.

.002 in.

2.5 x .875 in.

2.5 x .870 in.

2.5 x .875 in.

2.5 x 1.595 in.

.001, .002, .003,

.010, .012 in.

2.4995 to 2.5005 in.

.001 in.

.002 in.

CRANKPIN JOURNALS

Diameter

Length

Maximum Allowable Out-of-

Round

Maximum Allowable Taper

CONNECTING RODS AND

BEARINGS

Type

Length

Weight (less bearings)

Bearings

2.249 to 2.250 in.

/S in.

.001 in.

Drop Forged

" I " Beam

6% in.

25.2 oz.

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

2.249 to 2.250 in.

1% in.

.001 in.

Drop Forged

" I " Beam

6% in.

25.2 oz.

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

2.249 to 2.250 in.

1% in.

.001 in.

Drop Forged

" I " Beam

6% in.

25.2 oz.

Tri-Metal

204—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE (Cont'd)

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70 C-300

Diameter and Length

Diameter Clearance Desired....

Maximum Allowable Before

Replacement

Side Clearance

Bearings for Service

2.2507 to 2.2512

in.

.0005 to .0015 in.

2.2507 to 2.2512

in.

.0005 to .0015 in.

2.2507 to 2.2512

in.

.0005 to .0015 in.

.0025 in.

.006 to .014 in.

Standard, .001, .002,

.003, .010, .012 in. US

.0025 in.

.006 to .014 in.

Standard, .001, .002,

003, .010, .012 in. US

.0025 in.

.006 to .014 in.

Standard, .001, .002,

.003, .010, .012 in. US

CONNECTING ROD BUSHING

Type

Number

Diameter and Length

Interchangeability

Clearance With Piston Pin

CAMSHAFT

Drive

Bearings

Steel-Backed Bronze

.9843 to .9846 x

114 in.

All

.0001 to .0004 in.

Selective

Steel-Backed Bronze

.9843 to .9846 x

1*4 in.

All

.0001 to .0004 in.

Selective

Steel-Backed Bronze

.9843 to .9846 x

VA in.

All

.0001 to .0004 in.

Selective

Chain

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

Thrust Plate

.002 to .006 in.

Chain

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

Thrust Plate

.002 to .006 in.

Chain

Steel-Backed

Babbitt

Thrust Plate

.002 to .006 in.

Number

Thrust Taken By

End Play

Maximum Allowable Before

Reconditioning

Diametral Bearing Clearance...

Maximum Allowable Before

Reconditioning

Valve Lift—Intake

Valve Lift—Exhaust

CAMSHAFT BEARING

JOURNALS

Diameter and Length No. 1

Nos. 2, 3 and 4

No. 5

.010 in.

.001 to .003 in.

.005 in.

.375 in.

.361 in.

1.998 to 1.999 x

*%«

i n

1.998 to 1.999 x

% in.

1.4355 to 1.4365

in.

.010 in.

.001 to .003 in.

.005 in.

.375 in.

.361 in.

1.998 to 1.999 x

"Vie in.

1.998 to 1.999 x

% in.

1.4355 to 1.4365

in.

.010 in.

.001 to .003 in.

.005 in.

.444 in.

.435 in.

1.998 to 1.999 x

/ie in.

1.998 to 1.999 x

% in.

1.4355 to 1.4365

in.

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

Diameter and Length After

Reaming No. 1

Nos. 2,3 and 4

No. 5

2.000 to 2.001 x

/ie in.

2.000 to 2.001 x

/ie in.

1.4375 to 1.4385

in.

2.000 to 2.001 x

/ie in.

2.000 to 2.001 x

/ie in.

1.4375 to 1.4385

in.

2.000 to 2.001 x

'Vie in.

2.000 to 2.001 x

/i6 in.

1.4375 to 1.4385

in.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—205

ENGINE (Cont'd)

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70 C-300

TIMING CHAIN

Adjustment

Number of Links

Pitch

Width

TAPPETS

Type

Clearance in Block

Body Diameter

Clearance Between Valve Stem and Rocker Arm

* Engine hot and idling

None

.375 in.

in.

Hydraulic

.0005 to .0015 in.

.9040 to .9045 in.

Dry Lash .060 to

.210 in.

None

.375 in.

1% in.

Hydraulic

.0005 to .0015 in.

.9040 to .9045 in.

Dry Lash .060 to

.210 in.

None

.375 in.

1% in.

Mechanical

.0005 to .0015 in.

.9040 to .9045 in.

*Intake .015 in.

•Exhaust .024 in.

PISTONS

Type

Material

Comformatic with

Steel Belt

Aluminum Alloy

Tin Coated

Horizontal Slot with Steel Strut

Aluminum Alloy

Tin Coated

Horizontal Slot with Steel Strut

Aluminum Alloy

Tin Coated

Clearance in Bore (pounds pull with .002x1/2 in. feeler stock)..

Land Clearance ( d i a m e t r a l ) . . . .

Clearance at Skirt

5 to 12 lbs.

.028—.033 in.

Top of Piston

.0005 to .0015 in.

5 to 12 lbs.

.028—.033 in.

in. From Bottom

0005 to .0015 in.

5 to 12 lbs.

.028—.033 in.

i/> in. From Bottom

.0"005 to .0015 in.

Weight (Standard through .060

in. oversize)

Piston Length (overall)

Ring Groove Depth No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

Pistons for Service

570 grams

3 %

in.

.188 in.

591 grams

2 in.

.200 in.

.194 in.

591 grams

2 in.

.200 in.

200 in.

.194 in.

Standard .005, .020, Standard .005, .020, Standard, .005, .020,

,030, .040, .060 in. OS .030, .040, .060 in. OS .030, .040, .060 in OS

PISTON PINS

Type

Diameter and Length

Full Floating

.9841 to .9843 x

3.040 to 3.050 in.

Full Floating

.9841 to .9843 x

3.140 to 3.150 in.

Full Floating

.9841 to .9843 x

3.140 to 3.150 in.

Clearance in Piston (Thumb press at 70° F.)

End Play

Clearance in Rod (Selective)....

Piston Pins for Service

Direction Offset in Piston

.0000 to .0005 in.

.004 to .026 in.

.0001 to .0005 in.

Standard .003,

.008 in. OS

Toward Right Side of Engine

.0000 to .0005 in.

.004 to .026 in.

.0001 to .0004 in.

Standard .003,

.008 in OS

Toward Right Side of Engine

.0000 to .0005 in.

.004 to .026 in.

.0001 to .0004 in.

Standard .003,

.008 in. OS

Toward Right Side of Engine

206—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE (Cont

# d)

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70 C-300

PISTON RINGS

Number of Rings per Piston. .

Compression

Oil

Width of Rings—

(Compresion)

(Oil)

Piston Ring Gaps (All)

Ring Side Clearance

(Compression)

Upper

Intermediate

(Oil)

VALVES—Intake

Material

Head Diameter

Length (to top of valve face).

Stem Diameter

Stem to Guide Clearance

Maximum Allowable Before

Reconditioning

Distance from Guide to Valve

Seat Face

Angle of Seat

Adjustment

VALVES—Exhaust

Material

Head Diameter

Length (to top of valve face).

Stem Diameter

Stem to Guide Clearance

Maximum Allowable Before

Reconditioning

Distance from Guide to Valve

Seat Face

Angle of Seat

Adjustment ,

.0775 to .0780 in.

.1860 to .1865 in.

.010 to .020 in.

.0015 to .0030 in.

.0010 to .0025 in.

.0010 to .003 in.

.0775 to .0780 in.

.1860 to .1865 in.

.010 to .020 in.

.002 to .0035 in.

.0010 to .0025 in.

.0775 to .0780 in.

.1860 to .1865 in.

.010 to .020 in.

.002 to .0035 in.

.0010 to .0025 in.

Silicon-Chromium

Steel

%6 in.

%2 in.

.372 to .373 in.

.001 to .003 in.

.004 in.

in.

45°

None

Silicon-Chromium

Steel l ^ o in.

in.

.372 to .373 in.

.001 to .003 in.

.004 in.

2 in.

45°

None

Silicon-Chromium

Steel

in.

.372 to .373 in.

.001 to .003 in.

.004 in.

•°'%2 in.

45°

Adjusting Screw at

Rocker Arm

Silicon-Chromium

Steel

1% in-

4% in.

.371 to .372 in.

.002 to .004 in.

.006 in.

Nitrided Chrome-

Nickel Steel

1% in.

5%2 in.

.371 to .372 in.

.002 to .004 in.

Nitrided Chrome-

Nickel Steel

1% in.

51/32 in.

.371 to .372 in.

.002 to .004 in.

.006 in.

1%2 in.

45°

None

1%2 in.

45°

None

45°

Adjusting Screw at

Rocker Arm

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—207

ENGINE (Cont'd)

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70 C-300

VALVE SPRINGS—Outer

Number

Free Length

Load When Compressed to.

(Valve Closed)

Load When Compressed t o . .

(Valve Open)

Assemble with Closed Coils

Toward

Valve Springs I.D

2 in.

Vie in. —

68 to 76 lbs.

160 to 172 lbs.

Head

1.010 to 1.030 in.

4 in.

l ^ e in.—

52 to 58 lbs.

122 to 130 lbs.

Head

.990 to 1.010 in.

in.

52 to 58 lbs.

122 to 130 lbs.

Head

.990 to 1.010 in.

VALVE SPRINGS—Inner

Number

Free Length

Load When Compressed to

(Valve Closed)

Load When Compressed to

(Valve Open)

Assemble with Closed Coils

Toward

Valve Spring I.D

Valve Spring Installed Height...

(Cyl. Head Spring Seat to

Retainer)

Recondition at

(Use M« in. Spacer No. 1400482)

CYLINDER HEAD

Number Used

Combustion Chamber

Valve Seat Runout (maximum).

Intake Valve Seat Angle

Exhaust Valve Seat Angle

Seat Width (finished)

Cylinder Head Gasket Compressed (thickness)

None

Polyspherical

.002 in.

45°

.040 to .060 in.

2%4 in.

20 to 23 lbs.

40 to 45 lbs.

Head

.690 to .710 in.

1% to I

1 1

/ e in.

Hemispherical

.003 in.

45°

.040 to .060 in.

20 to 23 lbs.

40 to 45 lbs.

Head

.690 to .710 in.

1% to I

in.

%2 in.

Hemispherical

.003 in.

45°

.040 to .060 in.

.024 in.

ENGINE LUBRICATION

Pump Type

Capacity (qts.)

Pump Drive

Operating Pressure at 40 to 50 mph

Pressure Drop Results from

Clogged Filter

Rotary, Full Pressure Rotary, Full Pressure Rotary, Full Pressure

Camshaft

40 to 65 lbs.

15 to 20 lbs.

*When Filter Element is Replaced Add 1 qt.

208—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

(ALL MODELS)

Torque

Foot-Pounds

Camshaft Sprocket Hub Nut 125

Camshaft Sprocket Hub Thrust Plate Bolt 15

Carburetor-To-Manifold Stud Nut 15

Chain Case Cover Bolt 35

Clutch Housing Bolt 30

Clutch Housing Pan Bolt 30

Clutch Housing Pan Drain Plug 35

Clutch Housing Vent Hole Screen Bolt 7

Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Bolt Nut (Plain) 45

(Chemical Surface Treatment) 40

Cylinder Head Bolt 85

Distributor Clamp Bolt 15

Engine Front Support Foot Bolt Nut 45

Engine Front Support Insulator Bolt Nut 25

Exhaust Manifold Stud Nut 25

Exhaust Pipe Flange Bolt Nut 40

Fan Blade Bolt 15

Flywheel Housing-To-Cylinder Block Bolt 50

Fuel Pump Bolt 30

Generator Adjusting Strap Bolt 15

Generator Adjusting Strap Mounting Bolt 30

Generator Bracket Bolt 50

Generator Mounting Bolt 20

Ignition Cable Cover Bolt 7

Intake Manifold Bolt 30

Main Bearing Cap Bolt 85

Oil Filter Bolt 25

Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt Nut 10

Oil Pan Bolt 15

Oil Pan Drain Plug 35

Oil Pump Cover Bolt 10

Oil Pump Mounting Bolt 35

Spark Plugs 30

Vibration Damper Hub Bolt 135

Vibration Damper Inertia Member Flange Bolt 15

Water Outlet Elbow Bolt 35

Water Pump Housing Bolt 30

Torque

Inch-Pounds

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Pipe Bolt 15

Manifold Heat Control Counterweight Bolt 50

Rocker Cover Bolt 30

Tappet Chamber Cover Bolt 50

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—209

SPECIAL TOOLS

(SPITFIRE ENGINE)

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

Tool Number Tool Name

C- 455 Wrench—Starter Motor Flange Nut

C- 263 Remover and Installer—Piston Ring

C- 741 Reamer—Valve Guide (.374-.375 inch Std.)

C- 756 Cleaner—Valve Guide

C- 771 Tool—Flywheel Turning

C-3428 Compressor—Valve Spring

C-3025 Sleeve—Intake Guide Wear Measuring

C-3026 Sleeve—Exhaust Guide Wear Measuring

C-3033 , Puller Set—Crankshaft Pulley and Timing Gear

C-3034 Puller and Installer—Camshaft Bearing Shells

C-3050 Driver—Chain Case Cover Oil Seal—Removing

C-3051 Driver—Chain Case Cover Oil Seal—Installing

C-3052 Remover—Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

C-3053 Driver and Burnisher—Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

C-3054 Wrench—Spark Plug

C-3059 Remover and Installer—Main Bearing Upper Shell

C-3436 Gauge—Valve Stem Length

C-3065 Gauge—Cylinder Compression

C-3066 Connector—Timing Light

C-3068 Rack—Hydraulic Tappet

C-3131 Installer—Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal

C-3158 Puller—Hydraulic Tappet

C-3160 Pliers—Hydraulic Tappet Testing

C-3466 Plate—Engine Lifting

C-3200 Reamer—Piston Pin

C-3209 Fixtures—Cylinder Head Holding

C-3231 Gauge—Timing Chain Aligning

C-3427 Reamer—Valve Guide (.404-.405 inch)

C-3430 Reamer—Valve Guide (.389-.390 inch)

C-3433 Reamer—Valve Guide (.379-.380 inch)

DESIRABLE TOOLS

C- 897 Driver—Welch Plug

C-3005 Wrench—100 Foot-Pounds Torque (Sensory Type)

C-3012 Reamer—Cylinder Bore Ridge

C-3028 Reamer Set—Hydraulic Tappet Bore

C-3221 Guide—Connecting Rod Bolt

C-3075 Gauge—Top Dead Center

C-3132 Removing and Installing—Cam Bearing Shell

210—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SPECIAL TOOLS

(FIREPOWER ENGINE)

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

Tool Number Tool Name

C- 263 Tool—Piston Ring Installer

C- 455 Wrench—Starting Motor Flange Nut

C- 693 Timing Light

C- 741 Reamer—Solid Valve Guide

C- 756 Cleaner—Valve Guide

C-3023 Compressor—Valve Spring

C-3024 Tool—Rocker Arm and Spring Compressor

C-3033 Puller Set—Damper, Sprocket, Crank Gear

C-3050 Driver—Chain Case Cover Oil Seal Removing

C-3051 Driver—Chain Case Cover Oil Seal Installing

C-3052 Remover—Distributor Shaft Bushing

C-3053 Driver and Burnisher—Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

C-3054 Wrench—Spark Plug

C-3057 Tool—Intake Valve Oil Seal Ring Installer

C-3059 Tool—Main Bearing Upper Shell

C-3466 Plate—Engine Lifting

C-3065 Gauge—Cylinder Compression

C-3066 Connector—Timing Light

C-3068 Rack—Hydraulic Tappet

C-3133 Fixtures—Cylinder Head Holding

C-3131 Tool—Rear Main Bearing Seal Installing

C-3149 Reamer—Piston Pin Line

C-3150 Driver—Valve Guide

C-3025 Sleeve—Guide Wear Measuring—Intake

C-3026 Sleeve—Guide Wear Measuring—Exhaust

C-3160 Pliers—Hydraulic Tappet Leakdown Checking

C-3061 Gauge—Valve Stem Length

C-3158 Puller—Hydraulic Tappet

DESIRABLE TOOLS

C- 888 Stand—Engine Repair

C- 889 Adaptor—Engine Repair Stand

C- 897 Driver—Welch Plug Installer

C-3005 Wrench—Torque 100 Foot-Pounds (Sensory Type)

C-3012 Reamer—Cylinder Bore Ridge

C-3028 Reamer Set—Valve Tappet

C-3047 Tool—Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly

C-3075 Gauge—Top Dead Center

C-3132 Tool—Cam Bearing Removing and Installing

C-3134 Puller—Chain Case Cover

C-3140 Puller—Valve Seat Insert

C-3151 Driver—Welch Plug Installing

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—211

i

212—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—213

*5> c

5 i

214—ENGINE

LEFT BANK CYLINDERS 1-3-5-7

DISTRIBUTOR ^ #

M O U N T I N G PAD

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

N O . 1 CYLINDER

RIGHT BANK CYLINDERS 2-4-6-8

N O . 2 CYLINDER

55x55

OIL PUMP M O U N T I N G PAD

REAR MAIN BEARING CAP

CYLINDER BLOCK CORE HOLE PLUGS

OIL FILTER M O U N T I N G PAD

Fig. 4—Cylinder Block

55x56

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—215

Section VII

ENGINE

SPITFIRE V-8 ENGINE

(C-67 MODEL)

1. DESCRIPTION

The SpitFire V-8 Chrysler engine, as shown in

Figures 1, 2, and 3, is a 90 degree V-8 type, with inclined lateral valves in the cylinder heads. The power plant is mounted in the chassis at three points in live rubber to prevent sound or other vibration from being transmitted to the body.

a. Cylinder Block

The cylinder block and crankcase, as shown in

Figure 4, are cast integrally, along with the transverse members which support the five main bearings. This design provides the utmost rigidity and strength, insuring perfect alignment of bores and crankshaft under all engine operating conditions.

The cylinders are precision-bored and are completely encircled by full length water jackets for efficient cooling. Coolant from the water pump circulates through the block, around the cylinder bores, and up into the cylinder heads. The coolant then circulates through the cylinder heads, around the exhaust valve ports, and into the return passages of the pump housing, then to the thermostat for return to the radiator, or recirculation, until the thermostat opens. Drilled passages in the block and cylinder heads carry lubricating oil from the pump to all moving parts of the engine.

b. Crankshaft

The crankshaft in the SpitFire V-8 engine is a steel drop forging, carefully heat-treated to insure strength and durability.

The short stroke ( 3 % inches) incorporated in this engine, permits the connecting rod journals to overlap the main bearing journals, further increasing the rigidity of the crankshaft.

The static and dynamic balance of the crankshaft has been achieved by the use of six counterweights, and the end thrust is taken by the

Number Three main bearing. The crankshaft is drilled for full pressure lubrication to the main and connecting rod bearings. A portion of the rear main bearing journal carries a knurled surface, extending completely around the journal.

This knurled surface, shown in Figure 5, in conjunction with the rear main bearing oil seal, helps to eliminate the possibility of oil leakage at this point.

c. Camshaft and Valve Mechanism

The camshaft is supported by five replaceable steel-backed bearing shells and is driven by a short, sturdy, silent timing chain. A spiral gear cast integrally with the camshaft, meshes with a gear and stub shaft which drives the distributor and oil pump. The eccentric, which drives the fuel pump, is mounted on the camshaft timing gear. A special ramp, or quieting curve, on each cam, rapidly and quietly opens and closes the

TORQUE CONVERTER ASSEMBLY

REAR MAIN BEARING

OIL SEAL SURFACE

(HELICALLY GROOVED)

MAIN BEARING

JOURNALS

TIMING

GEAR

RING GEAR

CRANKSHAFT

OIL HOLES

CONNECTING ROD

BEARING JOURNALS

COUNTERWEIGHTS

54x304 OIL HOLE

Fig. 5—Crankshaft and Torque Converter Assembly

216—ENGINE valves, providing maximum duration of full opening and insures positive valve action at all speeds.

Hydraulic tappets are included in the valve mechanism to eliminate service adjustments and insure quiet valve operation. If necessary, the tappet assemblies may be removed from the engine to facilitate service. The hydraulic tappets automatically compensate for variations in the operating mechanism, resulting from temperature changes or wear. The hydraulic tappet provides zero (0) clearance in the operating mechanism from the cam lobe surface to the push rods, rocker arms, and valve stems.

The exhaust and intake rocker arms oscillate on two drilled steel shafts (one on each head),

DOWEL H O L E -

CYLINDER HEAD

BOLT HOLES

PUSH ROD HOLES

DOWEL

HOLE

EXHAUST

PORTS

SPARK PLUG HOLE 55x721

Fig. 6—Cylinder Head (Bottom View)

54x722

Fig. 6A—Cylinder Head (Top View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL supported by brackets on the cylinder heads.

The rocker arms float in lubricating oil supplied under metered oil pressure through two special drilled passages from the Number Two and

Number Four camshaft bearing bores. The rocker arms are prevented from excessive lateral movement along the shafts by a series of spacer springs.

d. Cylinder Heads

One of the outstanding features of the SpitFire

V-8 engine is the polyspherical combustion chamber located in the cylinder heads (Fig. 6).

This type of combustion chamber has surfaces so curved that the pressure cannot become centered at one point, but is equalized over the entire area. This type of combustion chamber also provides the maximum amount of space for extra large valves and permits direct and unrestricted exhaust and intake valve porting.

The water passages in the heads are large and well-designed to carry ample coolant over the combustion chamber wall and around the integral valve guide bosses and valve seats. The lower operating temperatures result in a marked increase in valve life.

Special oil drain holes in the heads return the liberated lubricating oil from the rocker arms and shafts back to the oil pan for redistribution.

e. Pistons, Rings and Connecting Rods

Aluminum alloy, steel belt, elliptical-turned pistons are used in the SpitFire V-8 engine. The piston skirts are relieved diagonally below the piston pin boss to allow clearance between piston and crankshaft counterweights, when the pistons are at the bottom of travel. The expansion and contraction is controlled by the steel belt in such manner that a more nearly constant clearance is maintained between the piston and cylinder wall. Consequently, the pistons can be correctly fitted to minimum clearance and this clearance is maintained whether the engine is idle or in operation. All piston and rod assemblies must be removed and installed through the top of each bank.

Two compression rings and one oil ring with ah expander are fitted to seal the compression and control the oil. The oil ring is locked in position, with the gap up, by the expander spring to

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL further control oil during idle or shut-down operation.

The piston pins are full-floating and retained by two snap rings, which fit in recessed grooves in the piston boss.

The connecting rods are made of drop-forged, heat-treated, carbon steel, and forged to an "I" section with a closed hub at the upper end and a separate cap on the lower. Each bearing shell and connecting rod cap has a small "V"-groove between the cap-to-rod mating surface (on one side only). This "V"-groove permits lubrication of the opposite cylinder wall. All main and connecting rod bearing shells are of the replaceable, steel-backed babbitt type and require no reaming for fitting.

!. Engine Lubrication

The SpitFire V-8 engines are pressure-lubricated

ENGINE—217 by means of a rotary type oil pump. The pump is driven by the lower distributor drive shaft and draws oil from the deep sump at the rear of the oil pan.

Lubricating oil is drawn from the top of the crankcase oil supply, by means of a floating strainer, and is forced through drilled oil passages to the oil filter and then to the main oil gallery in the right-hand cylinder bank. The oil then travels to all main and connecting rod bearings, as well as to the camshaft bearings, hydraulic tappets, timing gears, and chain. The oil then circulates across Number One main bearing and into the left-hand cylinder bank oil gallery. Drilled passages from both oil galleries supply each hydraulic tappet with lubricating oil. (See Fig. 7 for oil flow through the engine.)

A drilled passage from the Number Two and

Four camshaft bearings, allows a metered

TO MAIN BEARINGS

ROCKER SHAFT OIL PASSAGES TO CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

OIL

GALLERIES

OIL FILTER

OIL PUMP

FLOATING OIL INTAKE

Fig. 7—Flow of Oil Through Engine (Typical)

TO CONNECTING

ROD BEARINGS

54x307

218—ENGINE

SEAL

ROCKER SHAFT

OIL SUPPLY

VALVE STEM

VALVE PUSH R O u - v / 54x308

Fig. 8 — I n t a k e Rocker A r m Lubrication amount of oil to be forced to the corresponding right and left bank around cylinder head bolts.

The oil then flows into the steel rocker shafts and out through drilled holes and grooves in the shafts to the rocker arms. Special drilled passages in the rocker arms carry the oil to small orifices in the rocker arms. Oil is delivered directly to the push rod ends of both rocker arms, as shown in Figure 8, and to the valve tip end of the intake rocker arm only. The exhaust valve tip end is fed by gravity from a hole in rocker arm bushing.

Thus, oil is supplied to the valve operating mechanism only in spurts. When the lubricating oil hole in the camshaft journal is in alignment with the oil passage leading to the rocker shaft, the rocker arm bushing and socket is oiled.

A spring-loaded pressure relief valve, integral with the oil pump, controls the pump pressures.

2. ENGINE TUNE-UP (SpitFire and FirePower

Models) a. Performance Inspection

The following tests should be made when a complete engine analysis is being performed, to determine the cause of improper performance of an engine. These tests should also be completed during a Major Tune-Up. It is important that suitable testing equipment be used.

b. Battery and Line Voltage Check

Inspect the battery for cracked or damaged case.

Test specific gravity (battery must be in a fully charged condition). Check voltage regulator with an accurate voltmeter.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL c. Vacuum Test

The vacuum test will reveal many causes of unsatisfactory engine performance. The following conditions affect vacuum readings: a. Improper carburetor adjustment.

b. Improper valve timing.

c. Burned or sticky valves.

d. Loose valve guides and weak springs.

e. Leaky intake manifold and carburetor gaskets.

f. Piston ring seal.

A steady reading of 18 to 20 inches of vacuum

(when in altitude up to 1000 feet) indicates normal performance at idling speed. Most manufacturers of vacuum gauges furnish complete instructions for interpreting vacuum gauge readings.

d. Compression Test

Compression is checked with starter cranking the engine, all spark plugs removed, throttle wide open, and engine at normal operating temperature (180 degrees F.). Since compression pressures vary with compression ratios, check specifications of the engine being tested. However, compression should not vary more than 15 pounds between cylinders. An engine tune-up is of little value if compression is erratic or subnormal. If such conditions exists they must be corrected before engine can be properly tuned.

e. Condenser Test

A defective condenser will cause burning of the contact points. The condenser may be easily tested without removing it from the car.

f. Coil Test

The ignition coil transforms low battery voltage to high voltage required by spark plugs. Test the coil with an accurate coil tester. It does not have to be removed from the car.

g. Minor Engine Tune-Up

When performing a minor tune-up analysis, the following operations should be performed:

(1) Remove and clean spark plugs, adjust gap

to .035 inch. Too wide a gap reduces speed and power; too narrow a gap causes uneven engine idling.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(2) Check distributor cap for cracks and corrosion. Check rotor spring and plunger. Inspect small lead wires for tightness, breakage, or damaged insulation. Check for excessive play in distributor vacuum advance plate bearing.

(3) Check and adjust distributor breaker points, as outlined in Electrical System.

(4) Check and adjust timing, as outlined in Ignition System.

(5) Clean and oil the air cleaner. Tighten carburetor flange nuts. Then set carburetor idle mixture adjustment, using a vacuum gauge. Adjust throttle stop screw so engine idles at not less than 450 to 500 rpm.

(6) Inspect primary and spark plug wires for breaks or poor insulation. Tighten connections, if necessary.

(7) Inspect fan belt and tighten, if necessary.

i. Major Engine Tune-Up

A Major Tune-Up consists of the "Performance

Inspections" and the "Minor Tune-Up," plus the following operations.

(1) Clean and tighten battery connections and add water if necessary. Tighten all primary and high tension wire connections, particularly at ignition switch, ammeter, and fuel gauge behind instrument panel.

(2) Tighten cylinder head bolts and manifold nuts. Cylinder head bolts should be tightened with a torque wrench while engine is at normal operating temperature. See Tightening Reference.

(3) Check carburetor float level. If necessary, bend float arm to obtain correct position, see Fuel System Section. While carburetor cover is off, clean out dirt and foreign-material from bowl.

(4) Check fuel pump operation and fuel lines for leaks.

(5) Road test car as a final check for other difficulties which might affect peak performance.

ENGINE—219

3. NEW CAR ENGINES IN STORAGE

Lack of proper storage preparation on vehicles which are not delivered immediately may result in the formation of rust on the operating parts of the engines. Such rust formation can cause excessive piston ring wear, sticking valves, excessive valve guide wear, and sticking rocker arms.

Since conditions produced by this rust can result in extreme customer dissatisfaction, needless service expense, and can also shorten engine life, it is recommended that cars, not being delivered immediately, have their engines prepared for storage in one of the following manners to protect against internal rusting: a. Up to 30 Days

Add one quart of special rust preventive oil to each five gallons of gasoline in the fuel tank. Run the engine on this mixture for five minutes at approximately 1,000 rpm.

b. Over 30 Days

(Storage for over thirty days when the engine will not be started during the storage period.)

(1) Add one quart of special rust preventive oil to each five gallons of gasoline in the tank.

Run the engine on this mixture for five minutes at approximately 1,000 rpm.

(2) Remove the rocker covers and spray the rocker arms, shafts, valve springs, push rods, and valve stems with the special rust preventive oil. Be sure to use a clean spray gun.

c. Over 90 Days

For vehicles to be stored more than 90 days, treat as described previously, but, in addition, remove the spark plugs and pour two ounces of special rust preventive oil into each cylinder. Turn the engine over several revolutions, with the starter, to distribute the rust preventive oil on the cylinder walls and pistons. Replace the spark plugs.

NOTE

The special rust preventive oil used should conform to U.S.A. specification 2-126. The oil may be obtained by this designation from reputable oil refiners.

220—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE PROCEDURES

4. ENGINE REMOVAL (From Car) (SpitFire and FirePower)

NOTE

When removing the engine assembly it is not necessary to remove the transmission with the engine; however, time and labor can be saved if transmission is removed along with engine assembly.

(1) Drain the cooling system (both cylinder block draincocks and one at radiator).

(2) Disconnect heater hoses (if so equipped) and radiator hoses and remove radiator and shroud.

(3) Disconnect wires and linkage at transmission.

(4) Disconnect propeller shaft at transmission.

(5) Disconnect speedometer and hand brake cable at transmission.

(6) Disconnect the exhaust pipes and brackets.

(7) Remove the hood and battery.

(8) Disconnect the usual items under the ljood such as fuel line, electrical wires, etc.

ENGINE BLOCK - v .

(9) If lifting fixture, Tool C-3466, is to be used, disconnect the automatic choke heat tube and vacuum and fuel lines from carburetor and remove carburetor. Attach Tool C-3466 to carburetor flange studs on intake manifold, and attach chain hoist to fixture eyebolt. ..

(10) Raise car off floor; install engine support fixture, Tool C-3082. Insert hooks of fixture firmly into holes in side of frame.

Adjust fixture to support the weight of engine.

(11) Remove rear crossmember-to-transmission attaching bolts.

(12) Remove crossmember-to-f rame bracket attaching bolts and remove crossmember and rear engine support.

(13) Remove the engine front support mounting bolts. (Refer to Fig. 9.)

(14) Raise engine and, at the same time, work engine out of chassis toward the left front fender.

(15) Lower engine to floor, brace engine with suitable blocks, and remove the transmission. Mount the engine in repair stand,

Tool C-888 (Fig. 10). With the use of the repair stand the engine can be rotated 360 degrees to any convenient working position.

FRAME

SUPPORT

ENGINE

BRACKET-v r^ q)

' y - FRAME

2 i ^ A / ENGINE

^ K S ^ ^ / SUPPORT fcffi&T^/ FOOT v v //////

/ / / / / / ^

E nTrn

N ^ ^ > 7 ^ - BONDED RUBBER

y*znrcrrh INSULATOR

\ - ENGINE INSULATOR

SUPPORT BRACKET

53x903

Fig. 9—Shear Type Front Engine Mounting Fig. 10—Engine Mounted In Stand

155x735

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

5. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

NOTE

In addition to the service procedure furnished for a complete engine overhaul, procedures ivill be included for servicing of components which can be performed without removal of engine.

These procedures will be found immediately after procedure concerning a complete engine overhaul.

(1) Drain the lubricating oil from the crankcase

(if not previously drained).

(2) Remove the generator adjusting strap bolt, and tilt the generator inward to disengage the generator belt. Loosen the idler pulley adjustment bolt and pivot the pulley inward to disengage the belt. Remove the bolt holding the generator to the intake manifold pad and the two bolts holding the generator bracket to the front of the water pump housing. Lift generator up and away from engine. Remove the bolt holding the adjusting strap to the engine. Remove strap.

(3) Disconnect and remove the fuel line between the carburetor and the fuel pump.

(4) Disconnect and remove the vacuum spark advance control tube between the carburetor and distributor.

(5) Disconnect and remove the heat tube between the automatic choke and exhaust manifold.

(6) Remove the water outlet connector and lift the thermostat out of the water pump housing. Discard the gasket.

(7) Remove the nuts attaching the carburetor to the intake manifold, then lift carburetor up and away from the engine. (This step is necessary only if any other tool except

Tool C-3466 engine lifter is used.)

(8) Disconnect the primary lead wire from the ignition coil. Disengage the cables from the spark plugs and remove cables and distributor cap from the engine.

(9) Remove the crankcase ventilator outlet pipe attaching bolt and the clip bolt at the housing. Lift pipe and filter up and away from engine.

ENGINE—221

(10) Disconnect the secondary lead from the ignition coil then remove the distributor clamp bolt. Lift distributor straight up and away from engine. Remove the oil seal ring. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure gauge tube.

(11) Remove the bolts and lockwashers holding the intake manifold to the cylinder heads.

Lift intake manifold and ignition coil up and away from engine. Discard the gaskets.

(12) Use a thinwall socket, or Tool C-3054, and remove the spark plugs and gaskets. Discard the gaskets.

(13) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads. Pull manifolds out and away from the cylinder heads. Discard the gaskets.

(14) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the fan blades and pulley to the water pump hub. Slide blades and pulley off hub and away from engine.

(15) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that attach the fuel pump to the chain case cover. Pull the fuel pump straight out and away from engine. Discard the gasket.

(16) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the water pump housing to the block and cylinder heads. Pull housing away from the engine. Discard the gaskets.

(17) Remove the bolts, flatwashers, and insulating washers that hold the rocker covers to the cylinder heads. Lift covers up and away from the engine. Discard the gaskets.

(18) Remove bolts and flatwashers that hold the rocker shafts and heads to cylinder block. Lift rocker shaft and arms straight up and away from heads. Remove push rods and place in their respective slots in holder, Tool C-3068.

(19) Remove the remaining bolts on each bank that hold the cylinder heads to the block.

Lift the cylinder heads up and away from the block. Immediately attach the cylinder head fixture, Tool C-3209, as shown in Figure 60. This will prevent damage to the machined head surface.

222—ENGINE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

54x310

Fig. 11—Tappets and Push Rods In Holder

(20) Remove the bolts and lock washers that hold the tappet chamber cover to the cylinder block. Lift cover up and away from the engine. Discard the gasket.

(21) Slide the hydraulic tappets out of the bores and place in their respective holes in the tappet and push rod holder, Tool C-3068, as shown in Figure 11. This will insure their being installed in their original locations. If tappets stick in bores due to a build-up of varnish and carbon around the tappet body (after high mileage), slowly withdraw tappet with a sharp twisting motion, using Tool C-3216, as shown in

55x44

Fig. 12—Removing Tappet Body From Bore

55x726

Fig. 13—Removing Hub From Crankshaft

Figure 12. The sharp edge at the bottom of tappet bore will shave the varnish and carbon deposit off tappet as it is withdrawn.

(22) Remove the distributor drive gear and stub shaft by inserting the nose of Tool

C-484 into the gear slot. Compress the pliers and withdraw the gear and shaft, using a clockwise motion to unmesh the spiral gear.

(23) Remove the pulley and damper from hub.

Install Tool C-3033, as shown in Figure

13, to remove the hub from end of crankshaft.

Before removing the piston and rod assemblies, remove the top ridge of bore (if present) with a reliable ridge reamer, or

Tool C-3012. Be sure and keep the tops of the pistons covered during this operation.

(24) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that attach the oil pan to the crankcase. Lift oil pan straight up and away from engine. Discard the gaskets and seals.

(25) Remove the oil filter as follows: Loosen the filter center bolt and lift off the filter cover

(shell). Remove the element. This will expose the filter base mounting bolts. Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the filter base to the cylinder block mounting pad. Lift the filter base out and away from block. Discard the gasket.

(26) Remove the bolts and lockwashers which hold the oil pump to the rear main bearing

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL cap. Pull pump and strainer up and away from cap with a slight twisting motion.

Discard the oil seal ring.

NOTE

When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from engine, rotate the crankshaft so that piston is at bottom dead center, then proceed as folloivs:

(27) Remove the nuts that hold the bearing cap to the connecting rod. Remove cap and bearing shell, then install Tool C-3221 on one connecting rod bolt and the protector over the other. Push piston and rod assembly out of the cylinder bore.

Repeat this operation for each piston and rod assembly. After removal, install bearing cap to mating rod.

(28) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the chain case cover to the cylinder block. Work the cover off the locating dowels and away from engine. Discard the gasket.

(29) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger off end of crankshaft, then remove the camshaft sprocket hub nut and fuel eccentric. Pull camshaft sprocket off shaft and, at the same time, disengage and remove the timing chain.

(30) Loosen and remove the bolts holding the main bearing caps to block. Hit the caps lightly with a plastic hammer to loosen,

REMOVING TOOL

51 x 741

Fig. 14—Removing Crankshaft Timing Gear

ENGINE—221 and lift off the main bearing caps and lower bearing shells.

If necessary to remove the crankshaft timing gear, install Tool C-3033, as shown in Figure 14, and pull gear from end of crankshaft. Remove the key.

(31) Form a heavy rope sling and wrap around the Number Seven and Eight connecting rod bearing journals and hoist the crankshaft and torque converter, or clutch, straight up and away from the cylinder block. Remove the upper main bearing shells and the rear main bearing upper seal.

(32) Remove the bolts that hold the camshaft and thrust plate to the cylinder block. Lift off the timing chain oil trough..

(33) Ease the camshaft and thrust plate out of cylinder block, being careful not to damage the bearing shells.

(34) Remove the cylinder block from stand.

(35) Use a suitable tool to drive out the rear cam bearing welch plug, and remove the two main oil gallery plugs.

(36) Install the proper size adapters and horseshoes (part of Tool C-3034) at the back of each cam bearing shell to be removed, and remove camshaft bearings.

6. CYLINDER BLOCK a. Cleaning

Whenever the engine is to be completely overhauled and the cylinder block is stripped, the block should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for any condition that might render it unfit for further service.

Live steam or a suitable degreasing tank should be used. After cleaning a cylinder block, be sure and blow out all passages thoroughly with compressed air.

b. Inspection

Pay particular attention to the various core hole plugs and replace, if necessary. When installing new core hole plugs, coat the edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer; then drive in place, using Tool C-897, as shown in Figure 15.

224—ENGINE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

51x969

Fig. 15—Installing Cylinder Block Core Hole Plugs

(Typical)

Examine the cleaned block for minute cracks or fractures and all machined surfaces for burrs or scoring.

Check the tappet bores for badly scored surfaces, if the tappet or bore is badly scored, scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to the next oversize, using Tool C-3028, as shown in Figure 16, and install a new tappet. Tappets are available in standard and the following oversizes: .001, .008, and .030 inch.

51x967

Fig. 17—Checking Cylinder Bores For Out-Of-Round or Taper

NOTE

A diamond mark on engine serial number pad indicates .008 inch oversize tappet bores.

c. Checking Cylinder Bores

The cylinder bores should be checked for out-ofround and taper, using Tool CM-119, as shown

Fig. 16—Reaming Tappet Bores (Typical)

Fig. 18—Honing Cylinder Bores

2 6 6

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL in Figure 17. Check each bore at top, bottom, crosswise, and lengthwise to determine what variation exists.

If the cylinder bores show more than .005 inch out-of-round or a taper of more than .020 inch, the cylinder block should be rebored and new pistons and rings fitted.

d. Honing Cylinder Bores

To remove light scoring, scuffing, or scratches from the cylinder walls, use Tool C-823, as shown in Figure 18. Usually one or two "passes" will clean up a bore and still maintain required limits.

After honing, remove all traces of abrasives. The hone may safely be used for removal of metal from .010 to .015 inch by an experienced operator.

e. Reboring Cylinder Bores

Cylinder walls which are badly scored, scuffed, scratched, or worn beyond the specified limits should be rebored. Boring Bar, Tool 377-S, as shown in Figure 19, contains a special feature for setting the cutter under positive control.

Whatever type of boring equipment is used, the boring operation should be closely co-ordi-

SI x 2 6 7

Fig. 19—Boring The Cylinders With Tool 377-S

ENGINE—225

FT BEARIN^OIUJOLEI

Fig. 20—Installing Camshaft Bearing Shells nated with the fitting of pistons and rings, in order that specifications may be maintained.

7. CAMSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT BEARING

SHELL INSTALLATION

(1) Coat a new welch plug with a suitable sealer and install in the cylinder block at the rear cam bearing, using Tool C-897. Coat the main oil gallery plugs with sealer, then install in the block. Tighten securely.

(2) Mount the cylinder block in the repair stand.

Install the new camshaft bearing shells as follows: Slide new bearing shell over adaptor and insert in position, as shown in Figure

20. Install the horseshoe lock and drive in place. Install the remaining bearing shells in like manner.

NOTE

Be sure the oil holes in the cam bearing shell and cylinder block are in exact alignment. Check each bearing shell by inserting pencil flashlight in shell. The complete circumference of the camshaft bearing oil hole should be visible by looking through the main bearing drilled oil passage. If camshaft bearing oil hole is not in exact alignment, remove bearing shell and reinstall.

The above information is particularly important when installing the Number Two and Four camshaft bearing shells, as the lubrication of the valve operating mechanism depends on correct alignment of these two shells.

226—ENGINE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CAMSHAFT

THRUST PLATE

MAIN OIL GALLERIES

Fig. 21—Installing The Camshaft (Typical)

(3) Install the camshaft thrust plate on camshaft (if removed), insert key and press on the hub. Insert feeler gauge between hub and thrust plate to check for correct clearance. The clearance should be from .002 to

.006 inch.

(4) Lubricate all camshaft bearings. Install camshaft and thrust plate, as shown in Figure 21. Place the oil trough in position and install bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque (See Fig. 22). Do not allow the camshaft lobes to ride on bearings when installing the camshaft, as damage to the bearings will result.

MOUNTING BOLTS

AND LOCKWASHERS

CAMSHAFT

GEAR HUB

OIL TROUGH

51x711

Fig. 22—Camshaft Thrust Plate and Gear Hub

Installed

,51x970

Fig. 23—Installing Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal

8. REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL

INSTALLATION

(1) Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the block so that both ends protrude. Tap the seal down into position, with Tool

C-3131, until tool is seated in the bearing bore. Hold the tool in this position, then cut off the portion of the seal that extends above the block on both sides.

(2) Install a new seal in bearing cap (bearing shell removed) so that the ends protrude.

Tap seal down into position with Tool

C-3131, as shown in Figure 23, until tool is seated. Trim off the portion of the seal that protrudes above cap, as shown in Figure 23.

Install the two cap side seals in the grooves in the cap. Care should be used when installing these seals, as they are NOT interchangeable. The seal with the longer body should be installed on the oil filter side of the block. Seals incorrectly installed will cause an oil leak.

9. MAIN BEARINGS

The halves of Numbers One, Two, and Four bearings are interchangeable with one another. (The caps are not interchangeable and extreme care should be used in replacing them in their correct position.) Number Three bearing, which controls the crankshaft end thrust is not interchangeable with the others. However, the upper and lower halves of Number Three bearing are interchangeable with each other. Number Five bearing halves are not interchangeable.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

OIL INLET TO GALLERIES AND FILTER

-. N O . 3 THRUST BEARING

REAR MAIN BEARING

IL SEAL—UPPER

[CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SHELLS— UPPER H 5

1 x 7 ! 4

Fig. 24—Main Bearing Shells Installed—Upper

Bearing shells are available in .001, .002, .003,

.010, and .012 inch undersizes.

The desired main bearing clearance is .0005 to

.0015 inch. To determine if the clearance is within these limits, proceed as follows: a. Installation

(1) Check each bearing shell carefully for a scored, chipped, or etched condition. Replace damaged bearing shells, as shown in Figure

24.

(2) Lubricate all bearing shells with engine oil, then carefully lower crankshaft and clutch, or torque converter (if so equipped), directly down on the bearing shells. The crankshaft should be lowered evenly and square with block to prevent damage to the bearings.

BEARING CAP

BEARING

SHIM STOCK

ENGINE—227

b. Checking Clearance

(1) Install the bearing shell in the cap. Start at the center main bearing; place a piece of oiled .001 inch feeler stock (% inch wide and

1 inch long) between bearing and crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 25. Install the bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 85 foot-pounds torque.

If a slight drag is felt as the crankshaft is rotated, the clearance is .001 inch or less and is considered satisfactory. If no drag is felt, or the crankshaft cannot be rotated, the bearing should be replaced with the correct size. Fit the remaining bearings in like manner.

(2) At the final tightening of main bearings

(after all bearings have been fitted), tighten the Number Three center main bearing thrust first, then work alternately to the ends.

(3) Check the crankshaft end play with a dial indicator. The end play should be .002 to

.007 inch.

10. TIMING GEAR AND CHAIN a. Installation

(1) Insert the crankshaft timing gear key in slot and install gear with the timing mark out. Press on shaft, using Tool C-3033, as shown in Figure 26.

(2) Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the timing gear is exactly in line with the center

INSTALLING TOOL

51x54

Fig. 25—Checking Main Bearing Clearance

With Shim Stock

51 x 742

Fig. 26—Installing Crankshaft Timing Gear

228—ENGINE

CRANKSHAFT

GEAR

TIMING

CHAIN

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

30 POUNDS TORQUE

- H k - 3 / 1 6 INCH

CAMSHAFT

GEAR *^w-^^^~ 51x707

Fig. 28—Installing Timing Chain and Gear of the camshaft. Temporarily install the camshaft gear (less chain) and line up the dowel pin holes in the hub and the gear, while at the same time, positioning the camshaft gear mark exactly in line with the center of the crankshaft (See Fig. 27). A straightedge should be used to check the accuracy of this alignment.

(3) Remove the camshaft gear and engage with timing chain. Place timing chain over crankshaft gear and, at the same time, slide the camshaft gear over the end of camshaft, keeping the timing mark in position, as shown in Figure 28.

b. Checking Chain For Stretch

Place a scale across the top of camshaft gear

CHAIN CASE COVER L WELS

CENTER LINE OR

STRAIGHT EDGE 5 1 x 7 0 8

Fig. 27—Timing Marks on Camshaft and

Crankshaft Gears

51 x 743

Fig. 29—Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

(chain installed), with the dimensional edge close to the chain; then proceed as follows:

(1) Place a 1*4 inch socket over the camshaft gear nut and attach a torque wrench to the socket.

(2) Apply 30 foot-pounds of torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack.

Holding the scale with the dimensional reading even with the edge, or a chain link, apply 30 foot-pounds of torque in the reverse direction and note the amount of chain rotation (See Fig. 29). If the movement of the chain is greater than %

inch, as indicated by the stationary scale, install a new timing chain.

NOTE

With 30 foot-pounds of torque applied to the camshaft gear nut, the crankshaft should not move. However, if there is any movement the crankshaft should be blocked to prevent rotation.

(3) With the timing marks aligned, push gear on camshaft and install the fuel pump eccentric, as shown in Figure 30. Install nut and tighten to 125 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against gear (flange away from gear).

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

LOCATING DOWEL

DOWEL HOLE

ECCENTRIC CAM (FUEL PUMP DRIVE) 51x712

Fig. 30—Installing Fuel Pump Eccentric

11. TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER

INSTALLATION

Use Tool C-3050 to drive out the oil seal from the front of the chain case cover, then lift out the gasket. Place a new gasket in position and position a new seal with the protecting flange of the seal facing the inside of cover. Drive the seal into position, using Tool C-3051, as shown in Figure

31.

(1) Be sure the mating surfaces of the chain case cover and the cylinder block are clean and free from burrs. Install a new gasket.

(2) Slide chain case cover over locating dowels and, using a soft hammer, tap cover in place.

Install bolts .and washers after coating with

ENGINE—229 a suitable sealer. (See Fig. 32). Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

12. PISTONS, PINS, AND RINGS a. Fitting Pistons

New pistons (if required) should be fitted to the cylinder bore with the greatest accuracy and care. The recommended clearance between the thrust face of piston and cylinder wall is .0005

to .0015 inch, measured with a micrometer and dial indicator. The clearance can also be checked with a .0015 inch feeler stock 0/j inch wide) on spring scale, Tool C-690, as follows:

(1) Starting with the Number One cylinder, coat the bore very lightly with SAE 10W engine oil. Insert the piston in the bore, upside down, with the feeler stock between the piston (thrust face) and the cylinder wall.

(2) Holding the piston, draw the feeler stock out straight with the spring scale, as shown in Figure 33. The amount of pull necessary to withdraw feeler stock should be from 5 to 10 pounds.

(3) Fit remaining pistons in like manner.

Due to the necessity of maintaining piston balance, all pistons are machined to the same weight in grams, regardless of oversizes. Only finished pistons are available for service and are supplied in standard and the following oversizes:

.005, .020, .030, .040, and .060 inch.

DOWEL PINS,

INSTALLING TOOL

51 x 744

Fig. 31—Installing Chain Case Cover Oil Seal

(Typical)

OBOLTS TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR WATER

^ B O L T S TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR OIL

51x709

Fig. 32—Chain Case Cover Installed

230—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON RING

51x59

Fig. 33—Fitting Pistons to the Cylinder Bore

When selecting pistons for installation (new) be sure to secure pistons for the SpitFire V-8 engine. The FirePower V-8 engine pistons are not interchangeable with the SpitFire V-8 engine.

b. Fitting Rings

(1) Measure the piston ring gap about 2 inches from the top of the cylinder bore, to which it is to be fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down into position.)

This will insure the rings being exactly square with the cylinder wall before measuring.

(2) Insert feeler stock in gap and take measurement, as shown in Figure 34. The ring gap should be between .010 and .020 inch. This measurement is constant for all rings.

Fig. 34—Checking Ring Gaps In Bore

51x72

55x42

Fig. 35—Checking Piston Ring Groove Clearance

(3) Measure the clearance between piston ring and ring groove, as shown in Figure 35. This clearance should be .0015 to .003 inch for the top compression, .0010 to .0025 inch for the intermediate ring, and .001 to .003 inch for the oil control ring.

After the clearances have been checked on all rings, install rings on pistons.

(4) Start with the oil ring expander; place expander ring in lower ring groove. Install oil control ring and compression rings, using

Tool C-469, as shown in Figure 36 and

Figure 37.

NOTE

The oil ring must be installed with gap toward the "V" of the engine.

c. Fitting Pins

(1) Test piston pin fit in the connecting rod, as shown in Figure 38. This should be a tight thumb-press fit at normal room temperature.

(2) Test piston pin fit in piston, as shown in

Figure 39. This should also be a tight thumb-press fit at normal room temperature.

Piston pins are supplied in standard and the following oversizes: .003 and .008 inch.

When using expansion reamer, Tool C-3200, to fit piston pins, shown in Figure 40, be careful and take a very light cut. Ream and try fit—

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COMPRESSION RINGS

ENGINE—231

TOP COMPRESSION

INTERMEDIATE COMPRESSION

TOOL

OIL RING

OIL CONTROL RING

O EXPANDER

LOCK RING

PISTON PIN

Fig. 37—Installing Rings on Piston

55x46 fr"

CONNECTING ROD

BOLTS

BEARING SHELLS

CAP

NUTS

Fig. 36—Piston and Rod Assembly

(Disassembled View)

55x41

5 1 x 6 0

Fig. 38—Fitting Piston Pin In Connecting Rod

Fig. 39—Fitting Piston Pin In Piston

232—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TOOL

54x318

Fig. 40—Reaming Piston With Tool C-3200 ream and try again, until piston pin can be pushed into the piston or connecting rod as described above.

(3) Assemble the pistons to the rods on the right cylinder bank (2, 4, 6, and 8) with the indent on the piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large end of connecting rod.

(4) Assemble the pistons to the rods on the left hand cylinder bank (1, 3, 5, and 7) with the indent on the piston head on the same side as the larger chamfer on the large end of the connecting rod.

13. CONNECTING RODS a. Checking Rod Alignment

(1) Check for Bend—Install the connecting rod and piston, as shown in Figure 41. The top of the piston should be flush with the tool.

The clearance between the piston and tool, at the point shown in "A," should be zero

(0); however, a .002 inch variation is allowable. If more than .002 inch, the piston and connecting rod should be disassembled and the rod straightened or replaced. (See

Fig. 42).

(2) Check for Twist—With the connecting rod and piston assembly installed in fixture

C-481, tilt the piston, as shown in Figure 41

"B." The clearance between the tool and the top of piston should be zero (0). However,

TWISTING

FIXTURE

SET SCREW

ATTEM

TO INSE

FEELER

STOCK AT

THESE

POINT

BENDING

FIXTURE

-•-SET

SCREW

54x321

Fig. 41—Checking Connecting Rod and Piston

For Alignment (Typical)

.002 inch variation is allowable. If more than .002 inch, the piston and connecting rod should be disassembled and the rod checked as outlined in the preceding paragraph.

b. Installing Bearings

The method of fitting connecting rods, as described, is accomplished without inserting the piston and rod in the cylinder bore, thereby eliminating any possible drag that might be caused between the piston and the cylinder wall.

NOTE

Fit all the rods of one bank until completed. Do not alternate from one bank to another, because

4 7 x 1 3 9

Fig. 42—Correcting Connecting Rod For Bend or Twist

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL when rods are assembled to pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.

Each bearing cap has a small "v"-groove across the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that the

"v"-groove in the shell is in line with the "v"groove in the cap. This allows lubrication of the cylinder wall. The bearing shells should always be installed so that the small formed tang fits into the machined grooves of the rods.

Limits on the taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journal should be held to .001 inch.

Undersize bearings should be installed if the crankshaft journals are worn enough to increase the bearing clearance above specifications.

c. Checking Clearance

The desired connecting rod bearing shell clearance is from .0005 to .0015 inch, with a side play of .006 to .014 inch, and may be checked as follows:

(1) Place a piece of oiled .001 inch feeler stock

0/2 inch wide and % inch long) between the bearing shell and crankshaft journal.

Install the bearing cap and tighten the nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Move the connecting rod and piston from side to side, as shown in Figure 43. A slight drag should be felt as the rod is moved. This will indicate that the clearance is .001 inch or less, which is satisfactory. If the con-

51 x 7 4 5

Fig. 43—Checking Connecting Rod Bearing

Clearance (Typical)

GUIDE TOOLS

ENGINE—233

Fig. 44—Guiding Connecting Rod Over Crankshaft

(Typical) necting rod is difficult to move, the bearing shell is too small and should be replaced with the correct size. Fit remaining connecting rod bearing shells in like manner.

d. Installing Piston and Connecting Rod

Assembly in Cylinder Block

Before installing the pistons, rings, and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression ring gaps are diametrically opposite one another and not in line with the oil ring gap.

The oil ring expander gap should be toward the outside of the "V" of the engine. The oil ring gap should be turned toward the inside of the "V" of the engine.

(1) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, then slide ring compressor, Tool

C-385, over piston and tighten with the special wrench (part of Tool C-385). Be sure the position of the rings does not change during this operation.

(2) Screw the connecting rod bolt protector

(part of Tool C-3221) on one rod bolt, then insert rod and piston into cylinder bore.

Attach the puller part of Tool C-3221 on the other bolt, then guide the rod over the crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 44.

(3) Tap the piston down in the cylinder bore, using the handle of a hammer, as shown in

Figure 45, and at the same time, guide the connecting rod into position on the crankshaft journal. The marking on the top of the piston must be pointing toward the front of engine. As a double check; the

234—ENGINE

PISTON RING COMPRESSING TOOL

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STRAIGHT EDGE x 7 4 6

Fig. 45—Installing Connecting Rod Piston and Rings

(Typical) larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward the crankshaft journal fillet.

(4) Install the bearing caps and nuts. Tighten nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

14. OIL PUMP a. Disassembly

Refer to Figure 46, and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the cotter pin holding the oil strainer to the oil pump suction pipe and remove suction pipe from the oil pump body.

RELIEF VALVE PLUG OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY

RELIEF VALVE SPRING

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

OIL PUMP BODY

FEELER GAUGE

5 1 x 6 5

Fig. 47—Checking Oil Pump Cover

(2) Remove the oil pump cover bolts and lockwashers and lift off the cover. Discard the oil seal ring.

(3) Remove the pump rotor and shaft, then lift out the pump rotor body.

(4) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug, and lift out the spring and plunger.

Wash all parts in a suitable solvent, then inspect for damage or wear.

b. Inspection and Repair

(1) The mating face of the oil pump cover should be smooth. If the cover is scratched or grooved, replace cover.

(2) Check for excessive cover to rotor wear, by laying a straightedge across the cover sur-

SUCTION PIPE r

Ch- COVER SEAL RING (SMALL)

ROTOR A N D SHAFT

OUTER ROTOR

LOCK WASHER

COVER SEAL

RING (LARGE)

PUMP COVER

PUMP COVER BOLT

LOCK

/WASHER

PUMP M O U N T I N G BOLT

5 1 x 7 0 3

Fig. 46—Oil Pump (Disassembled View)

51x66

DIAMETER

Fig. 48—Measuring the Thickness of Rotor Body

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—235

51x67

Fig. 49—Measuring the Thickness of Pump Rotor face, as shown in Figure 47. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straightedge, the cover should be replaced.

(3) Measure the diameter and thickness of the rotor body, as shown in Figure 48. If the rotor body measures less than .998 inch and the diameter less than 2.244 inches, replace rotor body.

(4) Measure the thickness of the pump rotor, as shown in Figure 49. If the pump rotor measures less than .998 inch, a new pump rotor should be installed. Slide the rotor body and rotor into pump body and then place a straightedge across the face (between bolt holes), as shown in Figure 50. If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between rotors and straightedge, replace pump body.

51x69

Fig. 51—Measuring Clearance Between Rotor Body and Pump Body

(5) Remove the pump rotor and shaft, leaving rotor body in pump cavity. Press the rotor body to one side with the fingers and measure the clearance between the rotor and pump bodies, as shown in Figure 51. If the measurement is more than .012 inch, replace oil pump body.

(6) Check the clearance between the pump rotor and rotor body, as shown in Figure 52. If measurement is more than .010 inch, replace pump rotor and rotor body.

(7) Check the oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring and for free operation in its bore.

If the plunger is scored, replace plunger.

(8) When assembling the oil pump, be sure to

STRAIGHT EDGE

51x68

Fig. 50—Measuring Clearance Over Pump Rotors

51x70

Fig. 52—Measuring Clearance Between Pump Rotors

236—ENGINE use a new oil seal ring between the cover and body. Tighten cover bolts to 10 footpounds torque.

(9) Prime the oil pump, then place a new oil seal ring in the pump mounting face.

c. Inspecting Oil Pressure Relief Valve

The oil pressure relief valve is located in the oil pump body and consists of a plunger, spring and plug.

RELIEF VALVE SPRING CHART

Color

Free

Height

Under-

Load

Height

Tension

Pounds

Gray

(Light) 2

/4e inch

Red

(Standard) 2y

inch

Brown

(Heavy) inch

inch

16.1—17.1

19.5—20.5

22.9—23.9

To inspect the oil pressure relief valve, it will be necessary to unscrew the plug and remove the spring and plunger. Remove any dirt or foreign material, clean thoroughly.

If the plunger shows signs of scoring or binds in the bore, install a new plunger, then test the spring. The spring should conform to the specifi-

FLOATING

OIL STRAINER

OIL PUMP PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

STRAINER COTTER PIN

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL cations listed above. If, for any reason, the spring has to be replaced, the same color spring should be used. An exception is where the oil pressure is either above or below specifications.

The valve spring chart shows the springs available for installation, depending on the condition existing.

d. Installation

(1) Install the strainer on the end of the suction tube and secure with a cotter pin.

(2) Install suction tube into the pump body.

(3) Install the oil pump, suction tube, and strainer to the rear main bearing cap, as shown in Figure 53. Tighten the mounting bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(4) After the oil pump has been installed, check the alignment of the strainer. The bottom of the strainer must be on a horizontal plane with the machined surface of the cylinder block, as shown in Figure 54.

(5) Using a new set of gaskets and seals, install the oil pan. Install the oil pan bolts and tighten evenly to 15 foot-pounds torque.

15. HYDRAULIC TAPPETS a. Disassembly

The hydraulic tappets consist of a plunger, plunger cap, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer, plunger spring, tappet body, and plunger retainer spring clip, as shown in Figure 55.

BOTTOM OF

CYLINDER BLOCK

5 1 x 7 2 1

Fig. 53—Oil Pump, Suction Tube and Strainer

Installed (Typical)

CENTER LINE OF TUBE

54x322

Fig. 54—Oil Strainer and Suction Tube Alignment

(Typical)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PLUNGER RETAINING SPRING CLIP

•PLUNGER CAP

TAPPET PLUNGER

FLAT VALVE

VALVE SPRING

V A t V E RETAINER

PLUNGER SPRI

TAPPET BODY

52x389A

Fig. 55—Hydraulic Tappet (Disassembled View)

Because of the important part the hydraulic tappets play in the operation of the engine, the necessity for proper care and cleanliness of these units canot be overemphasized.

Do not disassemble a tappet in dirty surroundings or on a dirty work bench. Use clean paper on the bench and, after the tappet has been disassembled, place the loose parts in the rack.

Submerge in clean kerosene as a protection against dirt or corrosion.

Keep the parts of each tappet separate. The plunger and valve must always be fitted in the same body. To disassemble the hydraulic tappet for cleaning and inspecton, refer to Figure 55 and proceed as follows:

ENGINE—237

(1) Using a suitable tool, pry out the plunger retaining spring clip.

(2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of the tappet body above the plunger cap, then invert the body and remove the plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer, and plunger spring.

(3) Separate the plunger, check valve retainer, and check valve spring.

(4) Place all parts in their respective locations in the tappet holder, Tool C-3068.

b. Cleaning and Assembly

Clean all the tappet parts in a suitable solvent that will remove all trace of varnish and carbon, then inspect the tappets for wear, scoring, or damage that would render them unfit for further service.

After having cleaned and inspected the tappets, assemble with care to make sure the parts are installed in the body exactly, as shown in

Figure 55. Under no circumstances attempt to fit the check valve shoulder into the plunger. The finished seat of the check valve is on the side opposite the shoulder.

c. Testing

(1) Secure a container deep enough to completely immerse the tappet assembly (upright position).

(2) Fill the container with clean kerosene, then remove the cap from plunger and submerge tappet assembly, as shown in Figure 56.

CLEAN

KEROSENE

51x481B

Fig. 56—Tappet Immersed In Clean Kerosene

51x971C

Fig. 57—Testing The Hydraulic Tappet

238—ENGINE

(3) Allow cylinder to fill with kerosene, then remove tappet and replace the cap.

(4) Holding the tappet in an upright position, insert the lower jaw of pliers, Tool C-3160, in the groove in the tappet body, as shown in Figure 57. Engage the upper jaw of pliers with the top of tappet plunger (cap).

(5) Check the leakdown by compressing the pliers. If the plunger collapses almost instantly, as pressure is applied, disassemble tappet assembly and reclean. Test tappet again. If the tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet assembly. If the tappet shows the least sign of not meeting the leakdown test, the tappet should be replaced.

d. Installation

After the hydraulic tappets have been cleaned, inspected, and tested, install in the engine as follows:

Place the engine in right-side up position, then install the hydraulic tappets, as shown in Figure

58. (When installing tappets, be sure each is installed in its original bore.)

16. ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY

If the rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection, or the installation of new parts, they should be assembled in the following manner:

(1) Hold the rocker arm shaft and the end

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

INTAKE VALVE ROCKERS

/ SLOT FOR

/ CYLINDER HEAD

BOLT

INTAKE VALVE

ROCKER

EXHAUST VALVE

ROCKERS

SPRING

BRACKET

55x725

Fig. 59—Rocker Shaft Assembly (Disassembled View) bracket in a horizontal position with the oil grooves facing down. Slide an intake rocker arm over shaft and down against the bracket, with the diagonal slant of the arm close to the bracket, as shown in Figure 59.

(2) Now, slide a spacer spring over shaft and down against intake rocker arm. Next, slide an exhaust rocker arm over shaft and down against spacer spring, followed by a shaft bracket.

(3) Continue to slide first an intake rocker arm, then a spacer spring followed by an exhaust rocker arm and bracket, over shaft until the last bracket has been installed.

VALVE SPRING

COMPRESSING TOOL

CYLINDER HEAD

HOLDING FIXTURE

(TOOL)

Fig. 58—Installing Tappet Assembly x 5 *

55x720

Fig. 60—Compressing Valve Springs With

Compressing Tool

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—239

17. CYLINDER HEAD a. Disassembly

With the cylinder heads mounted in holding fixtures, Tool C-3209, as shown in Figure 60, disassemble as follows:

(1) Compress the valve spring, using Tool

C-3428, as shown in Figure 60. Remove the valve locks, then release and remove the spring compressing tool. Repeat procedure for all springs.

(2) Remove the valve spring retainer and valve stem seal rings (from intake valves only), then lift off the valve springs. The valve spring retainer and springs are interchangeable. Slide valves out of guides.

(3) Check the lock grooves in the valve stems for burrs. Remove burrs, if present, using a fine file or stone so as not to damage valve guides.

(4) Remove the valves from each head and place in a numbered rack. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compressed air.

b. Inspection

Check the cylinder heads for cracks, marred or scratched machined surface, or any other condition that might render the heads unfit for further service.

Be sure that the cylinder block and head mating surfaces are clean and that the water holes are fully open. Check the cylinder head water outlet covers at the rear of each head for leaks.

Remove all carbon and varnish from the valves and stems, using a fine, brass, wire brush.

Inspect each valve carefully and discard any that are found to be burned, warped, or cracked.

Measure the stem of each valve. The intake valve stems should measure from .372 to .373

inch and exhaust valve stems should measure from .371 to .372 inch. This measurement should be taken at several places on the valve stem. If the wear exceeds .002 inch, ream the valve guide and install an oversize valve. It should be remembered, at this point, that the valve guides are cast integrally with the cylinder head and that valves with oversize stems are available for service.

VALVE GUIDE

CLEANING TOOL

54x326

Fig. 61—Cleaning Valve Guides With Tool C-756

(Typical)

Remove the carbon and varnish deposits from the interior of the valve guides, using cleaner,

Tool C-765, as shown in Figure 61. After all traces of carbon and varnish have been removed from the guides, check the valve stem-to-guide clearance with a dial indicator as follows:

NOTE

To insure an accurate reading, and also prevent unnecessary removal of parts, the valve stemto-guide clearance should be checked with the valves that are to be installed in their respective guides.

(1) Slide sleeve, Tool C-3025, on the intake valve stem or Tool C-3026 on the exhaust valve stem, as shown in Figure 62. Insert the

INTAKE VALVE

CHECKING SLEEVE

EXHAUST VALVE

CHECKING SLEEVE

54x327

Fig. 62—Installing Sleeves To Check Guide

Clearance

240—ENGINE

54x328

Fig. 63—Checking Valve Guide Clearance (Typical) valve in position in the cylinder head.

(2) Attach dial indicator, Tool C-430, to the cylinder head and set the plunger so as to contact the edge of the valve being checked (at a right angle as near as possible), as shown in Figure 63.

(3) Move the valve to and from the indicator.

The total dial indicator reading should not exceed .008 inch on the intake valves or

.014 inch on the exhaust valves. If readings are more than the above specifications, install new valves and ream the guides as required.

c. Installing Valves with Oversize Stems

If after checking the valve to guide clearance, as described above, the total dial indicator reading

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL is greater than .008 inch on the intake valves or

.014 inch on the exhaust valves, ream the guides

(cast in the head) to the next oversize (if other than standard) and install new valves. Valves with oversize stems are available in .005, .015, and .030 inch.

Before reaming the valve guides, check the rocker cover gasket boss at one end of the cylinder head for either a stamped "E" (exhaust) or

"I" (intake). If a letter is found, all the guides in the head (either intake or exhaust depending on the letter) will be oversize.

The standard production reaming of both the intake and exhaust valve guides is .374 to .375

inch. Reamer Tool C-3433 is used to ream the intake and exhaust valve guides to obtain the correct clearance for a .005 inch oversize intake or exhaust valve stem (.379 to .380 inch).

Reamer Tool C-3430 is used to ream the intake and exhaust valve guides to obtain the correct clearance for a .015 inch oversize intake or exhaust valve stem (.389 to .390 inch).

Reamer Tool C-3427 is used to ream the intake and exhaust valve guides to obtain the correct clearance for a .030 inch oversize intake or exhaust valve stem (.404 to .405 inch).

Measure the valve stem to be sure of the diameter, then slide reamer of the desired size into the guide to be reamed.

Slowly turn reamer by hand, as shown in

Figure 64, until guide is reamed. Clean inside of the guide thoroughly, then install the new valve, and check with a dial indicator as described.

Fig. 64—Reaming Valve Guides

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

INTAKE

VALVE

EXHAUST

VALVE

CONTACT SURFACE

ENGINE—241

VALVE SPRING RETAINER

LOCK GROOVES

54x332

Fig. 67—Valve Seat Reconditioning Angles

54x330

Fig. 65—Intake and Exhaust Valve Nomenclature

CAUTION

Do not attempt to ream the valve guides from

Standard directly to .030 inch. Use the step procedure of .005, .015, and .030 inch so that the valve guides may be reamed true in relation to the valve seat.

d. Refacing Valves and Seats

To insure a positive sealing of the valve to the seat, the grinding wheel of the valve ref acer and the stones of the seat grinder should be carefully refaced. In each case the set up should be such that the finished angle of both the valve and the seat are identical.

When refacing the valves with Tool MTH-80, remove only a small amount of metal at a time to insure a smooth, accurate surface on the valve face. After the valves have been refaced, check the valve head margin of each valve. (See Fig.

65). The margin must be at least %

inch, otherwise the valve should be discarded and a new valve installed.

When refacing the valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for the reseating stones.

Grind the seats with Tool MTH-JB-41, as shown in Figure 66. Remove only a small amount of metal at a time to insure a smooth accurate surface. Avoid over grinding. A true and complete surface must be obtained. Check the concentricity of the seat, using dial indicator No.

9320. The total run-out should not exceed .002

inch (total indicator reading).

Check the valve seat with Prussian blue to determine where the valve contacts the seat. It

54x331

Fig. 66—Grinding Valve Seats Fig. 68—Testing Valve Springs

54x333

242—ENGINE is important that this contact be centralized on the valve face. If this contact surface is not properly centralized, the seat should be relocated by using a 20 degree stone at the top, or a 60 degree stone at the bottom, whichever is necessary.

(Refer to Fig. 67.) When the seat is properly positioned, the width of the intake seats should be Me to %

2 m ch. The width of the exhaust seats should be %

to %

inch.

e. Testing Valve Springs

Whenever the valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning, or replacement, the valve springs should be tested. Place the valve spring on the seat of Tool C-647, as shown in

Figure 68. Attach torque wrench and check the tension. (Multiply the reading on the torque wrench by two to obtain correct spring tension).

Both the exhaust and intake valve springs should test 160 to 172 foot-pounds when compressed to l%c inch.

Each spring should be checked for trueness.

This can be done with a steel square and a surface plate. Stand each spring and the square on end, on the surface plate and then slide the spring up the square. Then gradually revolve the spring while, at the same time, noticing the space between the top coil of spring and the square. The out-of-trueness of the spring should not exceed

Y ie

inch. If the spring is more than He inch out-of-true, install a new valve spring.

If valves and/or seats are reground, check the installed height of the springs. A thin, metal scale may be used. Make sure that scale is inserted to the full depth of counterbore in cylinder head. Measure to spring seat surface of retainer. If the height is over I

/! 6 inch, install a y

inch spacer (Part No. 14-00482) in the head counterbore to bring the spring height back to normal, 1% to I

KG inches.

When valves and seats are reground, the position of the valve in the head is changed so as to shorten the operating length of the hydraulic tappet. This means that the plunger is operating closer to its bottom position, and less clearance is available for the thermal expansion of the valve mechanism during high speed driving. Design of plunger travel includes a safety factor for normal wear and refacing of valves and seats.

However, if face and seat grinding is carried to the point where the valve position is changed

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT

Fig. 69—Checking Valve Stem Position

inch or more from its factory installed position, the dimension from the valve spring seat in the head to the valve tip should be checked with gauge Tool C-3436, as shown in Figure 69.

The end of the cylindrical gauge and the bottom of the slotted area represent the maximum and minimum allowable extension of the valve stem tip beyond the spring seat. If the tip exceeds the maximum, grind to approach (but do not go below) the minimum allowable on the gauge.

f. Assembly

After all parts of the cylinder heads have been checked and corrected, reassemble the cylinder heads as follows:

(1) Coat the exhaust valve stems with engine oil and insert in the head. Install the valve springs and retainer, as shown in Figure 70.

(2) Compress the valve springs, using Tool

C-3428. Install the valve locks and remove tool.

Fig. 70—Installing Exhaust Valve Spring and Retainer

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—243

DOWEL HOLES

SEAL

RETAINERS

LOCKS

54x336

Fig. 71—Valves, Springs, Seal and Retainer

(Disassembled View)

(3) Coat the intake stems with clean engine oil and slide into position in the head. Now, slide the valve stem seal over stem and down against valve guide. (The seals will automatically seat themselves in correct position when the engine is first run.) (See Fig. 71.)

(4) Install the valve springs and retainers, as shown in Figure 72. Using Tool C-3428, compress the valve spring and install the locks. Remove the tool.

g. Installing Cylinder Head and Rocker

Arm Assembly

Fig. 73—Cylinder Head Locating Dowels

(1) Position the cylinder head on the block, using new gasket.

NOTE

Be sure the cylinder head is properly installed over the locating dowels and the cylinder head gasket is installed right side up. (Fig. 78.)

(2) Install lower cylinder head bolts (exhaust manifold side) and tighten only tight enough to keep cylinder head properly positioned.

(3) Install intake and exhaust push rods into their respective positions. (Fig. 74.)

(4) Position rocker arm assembly (along with cylinder head bolts) on cylinder head.

EXHAUST VALVE PUSH RODS

Fig. 72—Installing Intake Valve Spring, Stem Seal and Retainer

INTAKE VAlVE>USH RODS • 55x48A

Fig. 74—Push Rods Installed In Head

244—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

4x341

Fig. 75—Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts (Typical)

NOTE

Be sure that the special head bolts (drilled and tapped for rocker cover bolts) are installed in their proper positions.

(5) Tighten cylinder head bolts in sequence to 85 foot-pounds torque, as shown in

Figure 75.

CAUTION

Extreme care must be taken in tightening the rocker shaft attaching bolts so that the tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods, broken rocker arms, or permanent noisy opera-

DUST SEAL

DAMPER

HUB

PULLEY

LOCK WASHER

RETAINER WASHER

5 1 x 9 8 0

Fig. 76—Crankshaft Pulley, Hub, Seal and Damper

(Disassembled View)

5 1 x 9 8 2

Fig. 77—Removing and Installing The Distributor

Driveshaft Bushing tion will result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

18. CRANKSHAFT.PULLEY, HUB, AND

DAMPER INSTALLATION

Refer to Figure 76, and proceed as follows:

(1) Insert the pulley hub key in the slot in the crankshaft, then position a new dust seal in the hub of the pulley and position the assembly on the crankshaft.

(2) Place installing tool, (part of puller set

C-3033) in position, then insert the pulley flatwasher between the tool and hub. Press the pulley on shaft until seated.

(3) Remove the tool and install the damper and pulley to hub.

(4) Install washer and retaining nut. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds torque.

19. WATER PUMP

For servicing and installation of water pump refer to Cooling System Section.

20. FUEL PUMP

For servicing and installation of fuel pump, refer to Fuel System Section.

21. DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING

It is advisable to remove and install the distribu-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL tor drive shaft lower bushing when the engine is completely overhauled. A worn bushing can cause erratic distributor operation, which will affect car performance.

To remove and install the distributor lower drive shaft bushing, proceed as follows:

(1) Insert Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained.

Hold the puller head with a wrench, tighten puller bolt and pull out of bore in the block, as shown in Figure 77.

(2) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of

Tool C-3053, as shown in Figure 77, then insert tool and bushing into bore of block.

(3) Drive the bushing and tool down into position using a soft hammer. As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by pressure applied by tightening the puller nut, the tool swedges the bushing tight in its bore and burnishes to the correct size. DO NOT

REAM THIS BUSHING!

22. DISTRIBUTOR BASIC TIMING

Before installing the distributor lower drive shaft gear, it will be necessary to time the engine as follows:

(1) Rotate the crankshaft until Number One cylinder is at top dead center (firing position. When in this position the pointer on the chain case cover should be over "DC" on the vibration damper.

ENGINE—245

(2) Using Tool C-3027, position the oil pump shaft so that it lines up with the slot in the drive gear, as shown in Figure 78.

(3) Coat the shaft of the drive gear with engine oil, then install so that as the gear spirals into position, it will index with the oil pump shaft and the slot in the top of the drive gear will be parallel with the centerline of the crankcase, as shown in Figure 78.

23. CHECKING THE VALVE TIMING

Turn the crankshaft until Number One intake valve is closed. Insert a .210 inch spacer between the rocker arm and stem of Number One intake valve. (This can be done by prying between the rocker arm and the valve spring retainer with a large screwdriver.)

Install a dial indicator so that the pointer contacts the valve spring seat as nearly at a right angle as possible. Wait until the seat stops moving. This indicates that the oil has bled out of the hydraulic tappet and the plunger has bottomed, giving the effect of a solid tappet.

Set the dial indicator on zero and then turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until the dial indicator shows that the valve has lifted .024 inch.

The timing on the crankshaft pulley should now read from 5 degrees before top dead center to 7 degrees after top dead center. If the reading

CYLINDER HEAD COVERS

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

Fig. 78—Distributor (Basic) Timing (Typical)

MONITION DISTRIByiOR^r- 55x54

Fig. 79—Ignition Distributor Installed

246—ENGINE is over the specified limits, check the gear indexing marks and the timing chain for wear.

Before making this check, it is well to check the accuracy of the TDC mark on the pulley by bringing the Number One piston to top dead center by means of an indicator placed in the spark plug opening.

After the valve timing has been checked, turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the tappet is back down to the valve closed position, then remove the .210 inch spacer from between the rocker arm and valve stem.

CAUTION

Under no condition, should the crankshaft be turned further in clockwise direction, as the spacer might cause the valve spring to bottom and damage the valve operating mechanism.

24. FINAL ASSEMBLY OF ENGINE

(1) Install the exhaust manifolds on the cylinder heads, using new gaskets. Tighten nuts to 25 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Place a new tappet chamber gasket in position, then install the tappet chamber cover.

Tighten the attaching bolts to 50 inchpounds torque.

(3) Install new rocker cover gaskets, then place rocker covers in position and secure with bolts. Be sure the rubber insulator is in correct position.

(4) Install new spark plug gaskets over plugs, after checking plug gap. The spark plug gap should be .035 inch. Insert the plugs and gaskets into the cylinder heads and tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque, using

Tool C-3054.

(5) Place the distributor vacuum tube in position, then install the intake manifold, using new gaskets. Insert bolts and lock washers and tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(6) Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on the cylinder block, with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the right hand cylinder bank. Turn the rotor until it points forward and to the approximate location of the Number One insert in the cap. Now, turn the rotor counter-clockwise until the

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 80—Ignition System Installed

55x736 break contact points are just separating.

Place the distributor oil seal ring in position, then lower the distributor and engage in the slot in the top of the drive gear. (Be sure to hold the rotor in position.) Secure with clamp and bolt. (See Figure 79).

(7) Install the distributor cap and spark plug cables. Engage the ends of the cables to the plugs. (See Fig. 80).

(8) Install the fuel line at fuel pump, then insert the vacuum tube in position and tighten connections securely. Install the oil gauge tube.

(9) Install the automatic choke heat tube in the exhaust manifold.

(10) Install the generator, mounting bracket and the adjusting strap. Tighten bolts securely.

1/2 INCH DEFLECTION

FROM STRAIGHT LINE

BETWEEN PULLEYS

ADJUSTING

STRAP BOLT

Fig. 81—Fan Belt Adjustment

55x53

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(11) Install the fan pulley. Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque, then slide the fan belt over pulleys and adjust as follows:

When adjusting the fan belts, obtain enough slack so that the belt may be depressed !/2

m c n from a straight line midway between the pulleys, as shown in Figure 81.

When adjusting the fan belt on Power Steering or Air Conditioned equipped cars, refer to the Steering or Air Conditioning Section of this

Shop Manual for correct procedures.

(12) Install the starting motor and tighten the attaching nuts to 55 foot-pounds torque.

(13) Install the oil filter base using a new gas-

ENGINE—247 ket. Install a new filter element, shell, and new gasket. Tighten the center bolt securely.

(14) Install the crankcase breather pipe and new gasket, then secure with bolt and lockwasher. Install bolt and lockwasher through breather pipe clamp and tighten.

(15) Insert the oil level dip stick tube in position and down into block (if removed).

Insert dip stick.

The engine now has been completely assembled with the exception of the transmission and converter housing. Remove engine from stand and install these items.

INSTALLATION OF ENGINE

(IN THE CAR)

25. ENGINE INSTALLATION

To install the engine assembly in the car, proceed as follows:

NOTE

If using the engine lifter plate, Tool C-3b66, fasten the engine lifter plate securely to the carburetor mounting flange.

(1) Using a suitable overhead hoist, suspend the engine assembly over the engine compartment. (The engine must be tilted at an angle, slanting downward at the rear.)

(2) Lower the engine (being careful not to damage the accessories or the vehicle) on to the front mounts.

(3) Holding the engine with the overhead hoist, place a jack under the transmission to support the rear end of the engine, then install the rear engine support crossmember and secure with bolts. After the crossmember has been installed, remove the jack and relieve the hoist.

(4) Remove the engine lifter plate and install the carburetor.

(5) Install the radiator and connect the radiator hoses. Close all draincocks (one on each side of the block and the radiator).

(6) Connect the usual items under the hood, such as fuel lines, heat indicator thermocouple, heater tubes, electrical wiring, and the oil pressure gauge.

(7) Reinstall the hood and battery.

(8) Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds, using new gaskets.

(9) Connect the wires and linkage at the transmission and clutch (if so equipped).

(10) Connect the propeller shaft to the transmission.

(11) Refill the cooling system.

(12) Refill the engine crankcase. (Refer to Lubrication Section for break-in of new or rebuilt engine.)

(13) Install the carburetor air cleaner.

248—ENGINE

(14) Start the engine and warm up to 160 degrees F., then check the distributor timing, as described in the Electrical Section.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(15) Adjust the carburetor, as described in the

Fuel System Section.

SERVICING OF COMPONENTS

26. PRELIMINARY TO CHECKING HYDRAULIC

TAPPETS

Before disassembling any part of the engine to check for tappet noise, check the oil pressure at the gauge and the oil level in the oil pan. The pressure should be between 40 to 65 pounds at

1500 rpm. The oil level in the pan should never be above the "Full" mark on the dip stick, nor below the "Add Oil" mark. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.

a. Oil Level Too High

If the oil level is above the "Full" mark on the dip stick, it is possible that the connecting rods can dip into the oil when the engine is running and thus create foaming. This foam is fed to the hydraulic tappet by the oil pump, and air gets into the hydraulic tappets causing them to go

"flat," which allows the valves to seat noisily.

b. Oil Level Too Low

Low oil level, on the other hand, may allow the oil pump to suck air which when fed to the tappets, again causing them to lose length and allowing the valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on the intake side of the pump, through which air can be drawn, will create the same tappet action.

When tappet noise is due to aeration it may be intermittent or constant, and it will often cause more than one tappet to be noisy, usually cylinders Number Two and Four. When the oil level and leaks have been corrected, the engine should be run at a fast idle for sufficient time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be worked out.

27. TAPPET NOISES

a. Determining the Location of Noise

To determine the location of a tappet noise, remove the rocker covers and run the engine at idle or noisy speed. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm, as shown in Figure 82. The noisy position can be readily detected by the feel. In cases of light noise only, the use of a .015 inch feeler gauge between the rocker arm and valve tip will provide a noticeable change in noise level.

Fig. 82—Checking For Tappet Noise At Rocker Arm

Fig. 83—Applying Side Pressure Against

Valve Springs

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Determining the Source of Noise

Tappet noise, or noisy valve seating, frequently is caused by other than hydraulic tappet malfunction. To most efficiently service a tappet noise the following possibilities should be quickly checked before installing a new tappet assembly:

(1) Aeration of oil feed.

(2) Excessively worn valve guides—Test by applying side thrust on valve spring, as in

Figure 83.

(3) Cocked valve springs—Test same as for worn guide.

(4) Worn push rod or rocker arm—A close examination of these parts is simply performed. Pay close attention to rocker arm push rod socket.

(5) Broken valve spring.

(6) Tight rocker arm (sticky on shaft).

(7) Bent push rod.

(8) Tappet tight in bore.

(9) Blocked tappet oil feed hole.

(10) Worn tappet or cam lobe.

If other than a hydraulic tappet is determined to be the source of noise, replace worn or failed parts as necessary. When, on the other hand, it has been determined that the hydraulic tappet is at fault, remove the suspected unit or units only. Tappets functioning properly should be left in the engine. Replace the tappet or tappets found to be noisy with new units. Do not attempt to repair a noisy tappet by cleaning as dirt is seldom, if ever, the cause of its being noisy. This procedure is most advisable, as the task of removal and installation more than justifies the cost of a new tappet.

28. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE

HYDRAULIC TAPPET—(In the Car)

To remove the hydraulic tappets for cleaning or the installation of new units, it will be necessary to first remove the intake manifold, and the tappet chamber cover. (The rocker covers were removed during the tappet checking procedure.)

Now, remove the hydraulic tappets as follows:

ENGINE—249 a. Removal

(1) Remove the bolts that hold the single rocker shafts and heads to the cylinder block. Lift rocker shafts and arms straight up and away from the heads. Remove the push rods and place in their respective slots in holder,

Tool C-3068.

(2) Remove intake manifold, as described in

Exhaust System Section.

(3) Remove the crankcase ventilator pipe and gasket.

(4) Remove the bolts that hold the tappet chamber cover to the cylinder block. Lift cover up and away from engine.

(5) Insert the hooked portion of Tool C-3158 into the hole in the tappet body, as shown in Figure 84. (This portion of the tool can be used to remove tappets without a varnish build-up (low mileage) around the lower part of the tappet body). Lift tappet out of bore; if the tappets stick in the bores, proceed as follows:

(6) Slide the puller portion of Tool C-3158 through the cylinder head (push rod) openings and seat firmly in cap of tappet.

(7) Insert the puller pin through the tappet body and tool shaft in the holes provided.

Grasp the tool handle and slowly pull the tappet out of the bore with a sharp twisting motion, as shown in Figure 12. As the tappet clears the bore, withdraw the puller pin and then the puller tool; lift tappet out of tappet chamber.

I I 1 1 !

M • *t

Fig. 84—Removing Tappet From Bore

250—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(8) Replace tappets that were found to be noisy.

b. Installation

(1) Install the hydraulic tappets and the push rods.

(2) Be sure all the rocker arms are in a horizontal position, then position the rocker shaft assembly with cylinder head bolts on each head.

CAUTION

Extreme care must be taken in tightening the rocker shaft attaching bolts so that the tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tapped bodies, bent push rods, broken rocker arms, and permanent noisy operation will result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

(3) Tighten the rocker shaft assembly attaching bolts slowly, starting at the center bolt and working alternately to each end.

(4) Install the tappet chamber cover, using a new gasket. Tighten bolts to 50 inch-pounds torque.

(5) Install the crankcase ventilator pipe and gasket. Install bolt and tighten to 15 inchpounds torque.

(6) Place new gaskets in position. Install the intake manifold, carburetor, and ignition coil as a unit. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(7) Make the necessary connections that were disconnected during removal of intake manifold.

Check operation of hydraulic tappets and, if satisfactory, install the rocker covers, using new gaskets.

29. LOCATING LOW POINT OF CAMSHAFT

LOBE IN CONJUNCTION WITH TAPPET

FACE

Remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor for Number One and Number Six cylinders. Set timing mark "DC" located on the crankshaft pulley to the pointer.

With the rotor pointing to Number One firing position and the crankshaft pulley with "DC" at the pointer, the following tappets will be on the low side of the cam lobe (heel):

2—Intake

2—Exhaust

7—Intake

8—Intake

4—Exhaust 8—Exhaust

To remove Number One intake and exhaust tappet, rotate the crankshaft 14 turn clockwise from above position after removing the tappets listed.

With the rotor at Number Six firing position and the crankshaft pulley with "DC" at the pointer, the following tappets will be on the low side of the cam lobes (heel):

3—Intake

3—Exhaust

5—Intake

5—Exhaust

4—Intake 7—Exhaust

To remove Number Six intake and exhaust tappets, rotate the crankshaft *4 turn clockwise from above position after removing the tappets listed.

30. REMOVAL OF CYLINDER HEADS

Before removing either of the cylinder heads, check the compression of each cylinder to determine the condition of the valves and piston rings.

Before any compression checks are made, the engine should be run until it reaches normal operating temperature. The battery should be checked to see that it is in a fully charged condition. It is good practice to loosen all spark plugs slightly and run the engine briefly before starting the compression check. This procedure aids in cleaning out any carbon deposits broken off the spark plug ends.

If the compression varies more than 15 pounds between cylinders, or has dropped below 90 pounds per cylinder with a full open throttle, attention to the valves or piston rings can be considered necessary.

If the compression pressure is border line, it is well to run the engine a short time and then recheck the compression. Frequently, a small particle of foreign material, which may become lodged on the valve seat, causes a low reading.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The particles may then be blown off by the operation of the engine.

(1) Remove intake manifold, as outlined in the

Exhaust System Section.

(2) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifold flanges.

(3) Disconnect the spark plug ignition cables from the spark plugs. Disengage from clamp on rocker covers, remove distributor cap and cables.

(4) Remove the bolts, washers, and insulators that hold the rocker covers to the cylinder heads. Lift covers up and away from heads.

(5) Remove bolts that hold the single rocker shafts and heads to cylinder block. Lift rocker shafts and arms straight up and away from heads. Remove push rods and place in their respective slots in holder, Tool

C-3068.

(6) Remove remaining bolts on each bank of cylinders that hold the cylinder heads to the block. Lift the cylinder heads up and away from block. Immediately attach the cylinder head holding fixture, Tool C-3209, to prevent damage to the machined head surface.

31. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE

CHAIN CASE COVER OIL SEAL a. Removal

(1) Remove radiator, fan, fan shroud, and water pump housing, as described in Cooling System Section.

(2) Remove pulley and damper from hub, and remove hub with Tool C-3033.

(3) Loosen the bolts that hold the oil pan to the cylinder block. Drop the pan slightly to clear the chain case cover. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines at the fuel pump.

Remove the fuel pump.

(4) Remove the bolts and washers that hold the chain case cover to the cylinder block.

Disengage cover from locating dowels and remove from front of engine. Discard the gasket.

(5) Drive the oil seal out of the cover from the

ENGINE—251 front, using Tool C-3050. Install new gasket, place a new seal in position with the projecting flange toward the inside of cover. Drive seal in place, using Tool C-3051.

b. Installation

(1) Clean both surfaces of the cylinder block and the chain case cover, install a new gasket.

Make certain that the crankshaft oil slinger is in the proper position (flange end pointing toward seal).

(2) Position the chain case cover on the two locating dowel pins and gently tap the cover in place.

(3) Coat the bolts with a suitable sealer. Install and tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

(Refer to Fig. 32).

(4) Insert the hub key in slot in the crankshaft.

Position a new dust seal in the hub and position hub on the crankshaft.

(5) Place installing tool (part of puller set,

Tool C-3033) in position and press on hub, as shown in Figure 85.

(6) Remove tool and install the damper and pulley to hub.

(7) Install washer and retaining nut. Tighten to

135 foot-pounds torque.

(8) Reinstall cooling fan, water pump housing, shroud, radiator, etc.

(9) Refill cooling system, start engine and warm up to 160 degrees F., and check for leaks.

32. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

ENGINE OIL PAN

(1) Remove the oil level indicator (dip stick).

Fig. 85—Installing Hub

55x727

252—ENGINE

(2) Remove the crankcase plug and drain oil.

(3) Disconnect the steering linkage at the idler arm support bracket, and allow linkage to settle away from bottom of oil pan.

(4) Remove the bolts that hold the oil pan to the cylinder block. Slide pan out and down away from engine.

(5) When installing the oil pan, coat the gaskets with a suitable sealer, and proceed as follows:

(6) Place a new oil pan gasket in position. Install bolts and lockwashers and tighten evenly to 15 foot-pounds torque.

(7) Reconnect the steering linkage at the idler arm support bracket. Tighten bolts securely.

(8) Refill the crankcase with the correct viscosity motor oil, and install the dip stick.

33. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

OIL PUMP

(1) Remove the oil pan.

(2) Remove the oil pump mounting bolts, and pull pump straight down and away from rear main bearing cap.

(3) Service the oil pump as described in this section.

After the oil pump has been reconditioned, install the pump assembly, being careful to align the drive slot in the pump shaft with the distributor lower drive shaft. Install new seal rings and slide pump up into position against rear main bearing cap. Insert bolts and tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Reinstall the oil pan.

34. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

MAIN BEARING SHELLS

Remove the oil pan and pump and proceed as follows:

(1) Loosen and remove the main bearing caps, one at a time. Insert the pin end of Tool

C-3059 into the oil hole of the crankshaft, as shown in Figure 86. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise forcing the upper bearing shell out of position for easy removal.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

[51x53A

Fig. 86—Removing and Installing Main Bearing Seals

Fit new crankshaft bearing shells, as described in this section.

When tightening main bearings, start at

Number Three center and work alternately toward each end. Reinstall the oil pump and oil pan.

NOTE

Though main bearing shells can be installed with engine in car, if much work is to be done on engine it is advisable to remove engine from car.

35. REPLACING THE REAR MAIN

BEARING OIL SEAL

The rear main bearing oil seal, as shown in Figure 87, is of the braided asbestos type and is pressed into the upper and lower grooves behind the rear main bearing. This seal in conjunction with the helically grooved surface of the crankshaft seldom allows oil leakage at this point.

However, should the lower half of this seal become damaged during servicing, replacement can be made as follows:

With the bearing cap removed, slide bearing shell out of cap, and remove the damaged seal.

Pry out the cap side seals. Install new seal so that both ends of the seal protrude above the cap. Tap the seal down into position, using Tool

C-3131 until the smaller end of tool is seated in the bearing cap bore. Holding the tool in this position, cut off the portion of the seal that protrudes above the bearing cap. Reinstall the bear-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—253

CAP SEAL (LONG)

BEARING OIL SEAL (LOWER)

OIL DRAIN SLOTS (REAR)

CAP SEAL

(SHORT)

SHELL

GASKET

FILTER ELEMENT

BASE

OIL DRAIN

HOLE

BEARING

CAP

51 x 7 7 8 A

Fig. 87—Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal, Cap and Side Seals ing shell, and install two new cap side seals. (The seal with the longer body should be installed so that when the cap is in position, the seal will be on the same side of the engine as the oil filter pad.)

Whenever the crankshaft is removed, it is, of course, advisable to replace both the upper and lower halves of the oil seal in like manner.

38. REMOVAL OF CAMSHAFT

(1) Drain cooling system and remove radiator and fan shroud.

(2) Remove the intake manifold.

(3) Remove the rocker covers and rocker shafts.

(4) Remove the push rods and hydraulic tappets.

(5) Remove the ignition distributor.

(6) Remove the chain case cover, timing chain, and camshaft gear.

(7) Remove the camshaft thrust plate bolts.

(8) Remove the distributor drive gear and stub

55x724 MOUNTING GASKET

Fig. 88—Full Flow Type Oil Filter

(Disassembled View) shaft, by inserting the nose of Tool C-484 into gear slot. Compress pliers and withdraw gear and shaft, using a clockwise motion to unmesh the spiral gear.

(9) Remove camshaft.

37. REPLACING FULL FLOW TYPE OIL

FILTER

To remove the oil filter from the engine, it will be necessary to remove the filter shell. (See

Fig. 88).

(1) Loosen the shell retaining center stud and remove shell.

(2) Remove filter element. (This will expose the mounting bolts that hold the filter base to the cylinder block.)

(3) Remove bolts and lift filter base away from block.

When reinstalling the filter, use new gaskets.

254—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHRYSLER FIREPOWER V-8 ENGINE

(C-68, C-69 AND C-70 MODELS)

38. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

The following disassembly procedures are presented as a guide and should be followed when completely overhauling the FirePower engine.

(See Fig. 89). Time and labor can be saved by mounting the engine in repair stand, Tool C-888.

Because of the stand's unusual design, the engine can be rotated 360 degrees to the most convenient working position.

NOTE

For servicing of components without removing engine refer to information given for servicing of components in the SpitFire engine, which is applicable to FirePower engine, except for servicing of cylinder heads.

(1) With the engine in upright position, drain

Fig. 89—FirePower V-8 Engine (End Sectional View)

53x902

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the lubricating oil from the crankcase (if not previously done).

(2) Remove the generator adjusting strap bolt, tilt generator inward, and disengage fan belt. Loosen and remove generator mounting bracket bolts and lift generator assembly up and away from engine.

(3) Remove the fuel line.

(4) Disconnect the vacuum spark advance control tube at the carburetor and distributor.

(5) Disconnect and remove the hot air tube between the integral choke and the exhaust manifold.

(6) Remove the right- and left-hand ignition cable covers, and disengage the porcelain insulators from spark plugs. Remove cables, insulators, clips, and the distributor cap from engine.

(7) Loosen and remove the distributor clamp bolt. Remove clamp and lift distributor straight up and away from engine. Remove the oil seal ring.

(8) Remove bolts and lockwashers holding the intake manifold to cylinder heads. Lift intake manifold and ignition coil up and away from heads. Discard gaskets.

(9) Remove the spark plug tube seal rings and seals. Remove the right- and left-hand rocker covers and gaskets. Discard the gaskets.

(10) Using a thin wall socket, or Tool C-3054, remove the spark plugs and tubes.

(11) Completely loosen the ten bolts on each cylinder bank that attach the rocker arm support brackets to the cylinder heads and block. Grasp the support brackets at each end of head and pull the rocker assemblies and bolts directly away from head. Remove the push rods and place them in their respective slots in holder, Tool C-3068.

WARNING

Care should be taken when removing the rocker assemblies to avoid jerking the cylinder heads off the locating dowels. This would allow them to drop and might cause personal injury.

ENGINE—255

(12) Lift off the cylinder heads and attach holding fixtures, Tool C-3038, to the heads to protect the machined surface from becoming damaged. Discard the cylinder head gaskets.

(13) After the heads have been mounted in holding fixture, remove the exhaust manifolds and discard the gaskets.

(14) Remove the crankcase ventilator outlet pipe, retaining bolt, and clip bolt at housing.

(15) Remove bolts holding valve tappet cover to cylinder block. Lift cover up and away from the block. Discard the gasket.

(16) Slide the hydraulic tappets out of the bores and place them in their respective holes in the tappet and push rod holder, Tool

C-3068. This will insure installation in their original locations.

NOTE

If tappets stick in bores, due to a build up of varnish and carbon around the tappet body

(after high mileage), withdraw tappet with a sharp twisting motion, using Tool C-8085. The sharp edge at the bottom of tappet bore will shave the carbon and varnish off tappet as it is withdrawn.

(17) Remove the distributor drive gear and stub shaft by inserting the nose of Tool C-484 into gear slot. Compress pliers and with-

55x726

Fig. 90—Removing Hub From Crankshaft

256—ENGINE draw gear and shaft, using a clockwise motion to unmesh spiral gear.

(18) Loosen the bolts holding the fan belt idler pulley. Push pulley toward block to release fan belt. Remove both belts.

(19) Remove bolts and lockwashers that hold fan blades and pulley to hub. Slide blades and pulley off hub and away from engine.

(20) Remove the bolt and flat washer holding the vibration damper on crankshaft. Remove two of the damper bolts and install

Tool C-3033, as shown in Figure 90. Pull damper assembly off end of crankshaft.

(21) Remove bolts holding fuel pump to chain case cover. Pull pump straight out and away from engine. Discard the gasket.

(22) Remove the water pump housing and discard the gasket.

NOTE

Before removing piston and rod assemblies, remove the top ridge of bore (if present) with a reliable ridge reamer, or Tool C-3012. Be sure to keep the tops of pistons covered during this operation.

(23) Remove bolts holding oil pan to crankcase.

Lift oil pan straight up and away from engine. Discard the gaskets and seals.

(24) Using special box wrench, Tool C-455, remove the two starting motor mounting bolts. Ease starter out of housing.

(25) Remove the full-flow oil filter. Lift filter away from block and discard the gasket.

(26) Remove bolts holding the chain case cover to cylinder block and work cover off locating dowels.

(27) Remove the bolts which hold the oil pump to the rear main bearing cap. Pull pump and strainer up and away from cap with a slight twisting motion. Discard the oil seal ring.

NOTE

When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from engine, rotate the crankshaft so that each connecting rod is centered in the cylinder bore, and proceed as follows:

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

REMOVING TOOL

51 x 741

Fig. 91—Removing Crankshaft Timing Gear

(28) Remove the nuts that hold the cap to connecting rod. Remove cap and bearing shell and install Tool C-3047 on one connecting rod bolt and the protector over the other.

Push piston and rod assembly out of cylinder bore.

Repeat this operation each time a piston and rod assembly is removed. After removal, install bearing cap to prevent the possibility of interchanging parts.

(29) Slide the oil slinger off end of shaft. Remove the camshaft sprocket hub nut and fuel pump eccentric. Pull camshaft sprocket off shaft and, at the same time, disengage the timing chain.

(30) Loosen and remove the bolts holding the main bearing caps to block. Hit the caps lightly on the side to loosen. Lift off main bearing caps and bearing shells.

NOTE

If it is necessary to remove the crankshaft timing gear, install Tool C-S038, as shown in Figure 91. Pull gear from end of crankshaft Drive out the woodruff key.

(31) Form a heavy rope sling and wrap it around the Number Three and Four crankpin journals. Hoist the crankshaft and torque converter straight up and away from cylinder block. Remove the upper main bearing shells and rear main bearing upper seal.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(32) Remove the four camshaft thrust plate attaching bolts and lift off oil trough.

(33) Pull out the camshaft. Be careful not to damage the cam bearings with the cam lobes. Drive out the rear cam bearing welch plug.

(34) Install the proper size adapters and horseshoes (part of Tool C-3132) at the back of each bearing to be removed. Drive out the bearing shell.

(35) Remove the oil gallery plugs at the rear of block.

39. CYLINDER BLOCK

a. Cleaning '

Live steam or a suitable degreasing tank should be used. After cleaning a cylinder block, be sure to blow out all passages thoroughly with compressed air.

b. Inspection

Pay particular attention to the various core hole plugs and replace if necessary. When installing new core hole plugs, coat the edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer, then drive in place, using Tool C-897, as shown in Figure 92.

Examine the cleaned block for minute cracks or

ENGINE—257

1 j i :

Fig. 93—Reaming Tappet Bores (Typical) fractures and all machined surfaces for burrs or scoring.

Check the tappet bores for badly scored surfaces, if the tappet or bore is badly scored, scuffed or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to the next oversize using Tool C-3028, as shown in Figure 93, and install a new tappet. Tappets are available in standard and the following oversizes : .001, .008 and .030 inch.

NOTE

A diamond mark on engine serial number pad indicates .008 inch oversize tappet bores.

Fig. 92—Installing Cylinder Block Core Hole Plugs

5 1 x 9 6 7

Fig. 94—Checking Cylinder Bores For Out-Of-Round or Taper

258—ENGINE c. Checking Cylinder Bores

The cylinder bores should be checked for out-ofround and taper, using Tool CM-119, as shown in

Figure 94. Check each bore at the top, bottom, crosswise and lengthwise to determine what variation exists.

If the cylinder bores show more than .005 inch out-of-round or a taper of more than .020 inch, the cylinder block should be rebored and new pistons and rings fitted.

d. Honing Cylinder Bores

To remove light scoring, scuffing, or scratches from the cylinder walls, use Tool C-823, as shown in Figure 95. Usually one or two "passes" will clean up a bore and still maintain required limits.

After honing, remove all traces of abrasives. The hone may safely be used for removal of metal from .010 to .015 inch by an experienced operator.

e. Reboring Cylinder Bores

Cylinder walls which are badly scored, scuffed, scratched, or worn beyond the specified limits should be rebored. Boring Bar, Tool 377-S, as

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SI x 267

Fig. 96—Boring Cylinders (Tool 377-S) shown in Figure 96, contains a special feature for setting the cutter under positive control.

Whatever type of boring equipment is used, the boring operation should be closely co-ordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings in order that specifications may be maintained.

Fig. 95—Honing Cylinder Bores

51 x 266

Fig. 97—Installing Camshaft Bearing Shells

(Tool C-3034)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—259

40. CAMSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

INSTALLATION

(2) Mount the cylinder block in the repair stand. Install the new camshaft bearing shells as follows: Slide new bearing shell over adaptor and insert in position, as shown in Figure 97. Install the horseshoe lock and drive in place. Install the remaining bearing shells in like manner.

NOTE

(3) Install the camshaft thrust plate on camshaft (if removed), insert key and press on the hub. Insert feeler gauge between hub

CAMSHAFT

THRUST PLATE

MAIN OIL GALLERIES

Fig. 98—Installing Camshaft

1 x 925A

MOUNTING BOLTS

AND LOCKWASHERS

CAMSHAFT

GEAR HUB

OIL TROUGH

51x711

Fig. 99—Camshaft, Thrust Plate and Gear

Hub Installed and thrust plate to check for correct clearance. The clearance should be from .002 to

.006 inch.

(4) Lubricate all camshaft bearings. Install camshaft and thrust plate, as shown in Figure 98. Place the oil trough in position and install bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque. (See Fig. 99). Do not allow the camshaft lobes to ride on bearings when installing the camshaft, as damage to the bearings will result.

41. REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL

INSTALLATION

(1) Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the block so that both ends protrude. Tap the seal down into position, with Tool

C-3131, until tool is seated in the bearing bore. Hold the tool in this position, then cut off the portion of the seal that extends above the block on both sides.

(2) Install a new seal in bearing cap (bearing shell removed) so that the ends protrude.

Tap seal down into position with Tool

C-3131, as shown in Figure 100, until tool is seated. Trim off the portion of the seal that protrudes above cap. Install the two cap side seals in the grooves in the cap. Care should be used when installing these seals, as they are NOT interchangeable. The seal with the longer body should be installed on the oil filter side of the block. Seals incorrectly installed will cause an oil leak.

260—ENGINE

Fig. 100—Installing Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal

42. MAIN BEARINGS

The halves of Numbers One, Two and Four bearings are interchangeable with one another. (The caps are not interchangeable and extreme care should be used in replacing them in their correct position.) Number Three bearing, which controls the crankshaft end thrust, is not interchangeable with the others. The upper and lower halves of

Number Three bearing, however, are interchangeable with each other. Number Five bearing halves are not interchangeable.

Bearing shells are available in .001, .002, .003,

.010, and .012 inch undersizes.

The desired main bearing clearance is .0005 to

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

.0015 inch. To determine if the clearance is within these limits, proceed as follows: a. Installation

(1) Check each bearing shell carefully for a scored, chipped, or etched condition. Replace damaged bearing shells, as shown in Figure 101.

(2) Lubricate all bearing shells with engine oil, then carefully lower crankshaft, and clutch, or torque converter (if so equipped), directly down on the bearing shells. The crankshaft should be lowered evenly and square with block to prevent damage to the bearings.

b. Checking Clearance

(1) Install the bearing shell in the cap. Start at the center main bearing; place a piece of oiled .001 inch feeler stock (% inch wide and

1 inch long) between bearing and crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 102. Install the bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 85 foot-pounds torque.

If a slight drag is felt as the crankshaft is rotated, the clearance is .001 inch or less and is considered satisfactory. If the crankshaft cannot be rotated, the bearing is too small and should be replaced with the correct size. Fit the remaining bearings in like manner.

(2) At the final tightening of main bearings

(after all bearings have been fitted), tighten

BEARING SHELLS

OIL TROUGH

No 3 (CENTER) MAIN

BEARING (THRUST)

OIL SEAL

BEARING CAP

BEARING

SHIM STOCK

5 1 x 9 2 2

Fig. 101—Crankshaft Main Bearing Shells Installed

5 1 x 5 4

Fig. 102—Checking Main Bearing Clearance

With Shim Stock

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR

ENGINE—261

TOOLC-3033 _ ^ ^ _ ^ ^ ^ _

51x923

Fig. 103—Installing Crankshaft Timing Gear

(3) the Number Three center main bearing thrust first, then work alternately to the ends.

Check the crankshaft end play with a dial indicator. The end play should be .002 to

.007 inch.

43. TIMING GEAR AND CHAIN a. Installation

(1) Insert the crankshaft timing gear key in slot and install gear with the timing mark out. Press on shaft, using Tool C-3033, as shown in Figure 103.

(2) Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the timing gear is exactly in line with the center of the camshaft. Temporarily install the

TIMING "O" MARKS

TIMING MARKS

51x920

Fig. 105—Installing Timing Chain and

Camshaft Gear

(3) camshaft gear (less chain) and line up the dowel pin holes in the hub and the gear, while at the same time, positioning the camshaft gear mark exactly in with the center of the crankshaft (See Fig. 104). A straightedge should be used to check the accuracy of this alignment.

Remove the camshaft gear and engage with timing chain. Place timing chain over crankshaft gear and, at the same time, slide the camshaft gear over the end of camshaft, keeping the timing mark in position, as shown in Figure 105.

DOWEL PIN HOLES

IN ALIGNMENT

CENTER LINE

FUEL PUMP

ECCENTRIC

51x918

Fig. 104—Timing Marks On Camshaft and

Crankshaft Gears

51 x 743

Fig. 106—Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

262—ENGINE b. Checking Chain For Stretch

Place a scale across the top of camshaft gear

(chain installed), with the dimensional edge close to the chain, then proceed as follows:

(1) Place a 1*4 inch socket over the camshaft gear nut and attach a torque wrench to the socket.

(2) Apply 30 foot-pounds of torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack.

Holding the scale with the dimensional reading even with the edge or a chain link, apply 30 foot-pounds torque in the reverse direction and note the amount of chain rotation. (See Fig. 106.) If the movement of the chain is greater than %

(;

inch, as indicated by the stationary scale, install a new timing chain.

NOTE

With 30 foot-pounds of torque applied to the cam shaft gear nut, the crankshaft should not move. However, if there is any movement the crankshaft should be blocked to prevent rotation.

(3) With the timing marks aligned, push gear on camshaft and install the fuel pump eccentric, as shown in Figure 107. Install nut and tighten to 125 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against gear (flange away from gear).

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

INSTALLING TOOL

51 x 744

Fig. 108—Installing Chain Case Cover Oil Seal

(Typical)

44. TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER

INSTALLATION

Use Tool C-3050 to drive out the oil seal from the front of the chain case cover. Lift out the gasket. Place a new gasket in position, and position a new seal with the protecting flange of the seal facing the inside of cover. Drive the seal into position, using Tool C-3051, as shown in

Figure 108.

(1) Be sure the mating surface of the chain case cover and the cylinder block are clean and free from burrs. Install a new gasket.

(2) Slide chain case cover over locating dowels and, using a soft hammer, tap cover in place.

Install bolts and washers after coating with

DOWEL PINS,

DOWEL HOLE

LOCATING

DOWEL

FUEL PUMP

ECCENTRIC

51x919

Fig. 107—Installing Fuel Pump Eccentric

OBOLTS TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR WATER

-+BOLTS TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR OIL

51x709

Fig. 109—Chain Case Cover Installed (Typical)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL a suitable sealer. (See Fig. 109.) Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

45. PISTONS, PINS AND RINGS a. Fitting Pistons

New pistons (if required) should be fitted to the cylinder bore with the greatest accuracy and care. The recommended clearance between the thrust face of piston and cylinder wall is .0005

to .0015 inch, measured with a micrometer and dial indicator. The clearance can also be checked with a .0015 inch feeler stock (i/

inch wide) on spring scale, Tool C-690, as follows:

(1) Starting with the Number one cylinder, coat the bore very lightly with SAE 10W engine oil. Insert the piston in the bore, upside down, with the feeler stock between the piston (thrust face) and the cylinder wall.

(2) Holding the piston, draw the feeler stock out straight with the spring scale, as shown in Figure 110. The amount of pull necessary to withdraw feeler stock should be from 5 to 12 pounds.

(3) Fit remaining pistons in like manner.

ENGINE—263

Fig. Ill—Checking Ring Gaps In Bore

1x72

When selecting pistons for installation

(new) be sure to secure pistons for the Fire-

Power V-8 engine. The SpitFire V-8 engine pistons are not interchangeable with the

FirePower V-8 engine.

b. Fitting Rings

(1) Measure the piston ring gap about 2 inches from the top of the cylinder bore, to which it is to be fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down into position.)

This will insure the rings being exactly square with the cylinder wall before measuring.

(2) Insert feeler stock in gap and take measurement, as shown in Figure 111. The ring gap

Fig. 110—Fitting Pistons To The Cylinder Bore

51x73

Fig. 112—Checking Piston Ring Groove Clearance

264—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Slx/5

Fig. 113—Removing or Installing Piston Rings

(Tool C-469) should be between .010 and .020 inch. This measurement is constant for all rings.

(3) Measure the clearance between piston ring and ring groove, as shown in Figure 112.

This clearance should be .002 to .0035 inch for the compression rings and .001 to .0025

inch for the oil control ring.

After the clearances have been checked on all rings, install rings on pistons.

(4) Start with the oil ring expander, place expander ring in lower ring groove. Then install oil control ring and compression rings, using Tool C-469, as shown in Figure 113.

NOTE

The oil control ring must be installed with the gap toward the "V" of the engine.

_ 31x56

Fig. 115—Fitting Piston Pin In Piston c. Fitting Pins

(1) Test piston pin fit in the connecting rod, as shown in Figure 114. This should be a tight thumb-press fit at normal room temperature.

(2) Test piston pin fit in piston, as shown in Figure 115. This should also be a tight thumbpress fit at normal room temperature.

Piston pins are supplied in standard and the following oversizes: .003 and .008 inch.

When using expansion reamer, Tool C-3200, to fit piston pins, shown in Figure 116, be careful and take a very light cut. Ream and try fit—ream and try again, until piston pin can be pushed into the piston or connecting rod, as described above.

TOOL

51x60

Fig. 114—Fitting Piston Pin In Connecting Rod

54x318

Fig. 116—Reaming Piston With Tool C-3200

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TWISTING

FIXTURE

SET SCREW

ATTEMP

TO INSER

FEELER

STOCK AT

THESE

POINTS

BENDING

FIXTURE

SET

SCREW

5 1 x 7 4

Fig. 117—Checking Connecting Rod and Piston

For Alignment

(3) Assemble the pistons to the rods on the right cylinder bank (2,4,6, and 8) with the indent on the piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large end of connecting rod.

(4) Assemble the pistons to the rods on the lefthand cylinder bank (1, 3, 5, and 7) with the indent on the piston head on the same side as the larger chamfer on the large end of the connecting rod.

46. CONNECTING RODS a. Checking Rod Alignment

(1) Check for Bend—Install the connecting rod and piston in Figure 117. The top of the piston should be flush with the tool. The clear-

Fig. 118—Correcting Connecting Rod Bend or Twist

ENGINE—265 ance between the piston and tool, at the point shown in "A", should be zero (0) ; however, a .002 inch variation is allowable. If more than .002 inch, the piston and connecting rod should be disassembled and the rod straightened or replaced. (See Figure 118).

(2) Check for Twist—With the connecting rod and piston assembly installed in fixture, Tool

C-481, tilt the piston, as shown in Figure

117 "B". The clearance between the tool and the top of piston should be zero (0). A .002

inch variation is allowable. However, if more than .002 inch, the piston and connecting rod should be disassembled and the rod checked, as outlined in the preceding paragraph.

b. Installing Bearings

NOTE

Fit all the rods of one bank until completed. Do not alternate from one bank to another, because when rods are assembled to pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.

Each bearing cap has a small "V"-groove across the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that the "V"groove in the shell is in line with the "V"-groove in the cap. (Fig. 119.) This is to allow lubrication of the cylinder wall. The bearing shells should always be installed so that the small formed tang fits into the machined grooves of the rods.

Limits on the taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journal should be held to .001 inch.

Undersize bearings should be installed if the crankshaft journals are worn enough to increase the bearing clearance above specifications.

c. Checking Clearance

The desired connecting rod bearing shell clearance is from .0005 to .0015 inch, with a side play of .006 to .014 inch, and may be checked as follows:

266—ENGINE

CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLY

BUSHING

COMPRESSION RINGS

OIL CONTROL RING

LOCK RING

PISTON PIN

PISTON

\\ BEARING SHELL

ANTI-ROTATION

SLOTS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(1) Place a piece of oiled .001 inch feeler stock

(V& inch wide and % inch long) between the bearing shell and crankshaft journal. Install the bearing cap and tighten the nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Move the connecting rod and piston from side to side, as shown in Figure 12O.*A slight drag should be felt as the rod is moved. This will indicate that the clearance is .001 inch or less, which is satisfactory. If the connecting rod is difficult to move, the bearing shell is too small and should be replaced with the correct size. Fit remaining connecting rod bearing shells in like manner.

d. Installing Piston and Connecting Rod

Assembly in Cylinder Block

Before installing the pistons, rings, and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression ring gaps are diametrically opposite one another and not in line with the oil ring gap. The oil ring expander gap should be toward the outside of the

"V" of the engine. The oil ring gap should be turned toward the inside of the "V" of the engine.

(1) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, then slide ring compressor, Tool

C-385, over piston and tighten with the special wrench (part of Tool C-385). Be sure the position of the rings does not change during this operation.

(2) Screw the connecting rod bolt protector

(part of Tool C-3221) on one rod bolt, then insert rod and piston into cylinder bore. At-

BEARING SHELL

ANTI-ROTATION

LUGS

NUTS

51x193

Fig. 119—Connecting Rod (Disassembled View)

51 x 745

Fig. 120—Checking Connecting Rod Bearing

Clearance (Typical)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

GUIDE TOOLS

Fig. 121—Guiding Connecting Rod Over Crankshaft tach the puller part of Tool C-3221 on the other bolt, and guide the rod over the crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 121.

(3) Tap the piston down in the cylinder bore, using the handle of a hammer, as shown in

Figure 122, and at the same time, guide the connecting rod into position on the crankshaft journal. The marking on the top of the piston must be pointing toward the front of engine. As a double check, the larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward the crankshaft journal fillet.

(4) Install the bearing caps and nuts. Tighten nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

PISTON RING COMPRESSING TOOL

ENGINE—267

47. OIL PUMP a. Disassembly

Refer to Figure 123, and proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the cotter pin holding the oil strainer to the oil pump suction pipe and remove suction pipe from the oil pump body.

(2) Remove the oil pump cover bolts and lock-

DISTRIBUTOR LOWER DRIVE

SHAFT AND GEAR

OIL SEAL RING (SMALL)

PUMP BODY

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

RELIEF VALVE SPRING

RELIEF VALVE PLUG

OUTER ROTOR

INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT

PUMP COVER

OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY

51 x 7 4 6

Fig. 122—Installing Connecting Rod, Piston and

Rings (Typical)

\ ^ COTTER PIN

LOCK WASHER s

COVER SCREW

Fig. 123—Oil Pump (Disassembled View)

268—ENGINE

STRAIGHT EDGE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

51x67

Fig. 126—Measuring Thickness of Pump Rotor

FEELER GAUGE

Fig. 124—Checking Oil Pump Cover

51x63 washers and lift off the cover. Discard the oil seal ring.

(3) Remove the pump rotor and shaft, then lift out the pump rotor body.

(4) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug, and lift out the spring and plunger.

Wash all parts in a suitable solvent, and inspect carefully for damage or wear.

b. Inspection and Repair

(1) The mating face of the oil pump cover should be smooth. If the cover is scratched or grooved, replace cover.

(2) Check for excessive cover to rotor wear, by laying a straightedge across the cover surface, as shown in Figure 124. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straightedge, the cover should be replaced.

(3) Measure the diameter and thickness of the rotor body, as shown in Figure 125. If the rotor body measures less than .998 inch and the diameter less than 2.244 inches, replace rotor body.

(4) Measure the thickness of the pump rotor, as shown in Figure 126. If the pump rotor measures less than .998 inch, a new pump rotor should be installed. Slide the rotor body and rotor into pump body and then place a straightedge across the face (between bolt holes), as shown in Figure 127. If

a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between rotors and straightedge, replace pump body.

STRAIGHT EDGE

DIAMETER

Fig. 125—Measuring Thickness of Rotor Body Fig. 127—Measuring Clearance Over Pump Rotors

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—269

91x69

Fig. 128—Measuring Clearance Between Rotor Body and Pump Body

(5) Remove the pump body and shaft, leaving rotor body in pump cavity. Press the rotor body to one side with the fingers and measure the clearance between the rotor and pump bodies, as shown in Figure 128. If the measurement is more than 0.12 inch, replace oil pump body.

(6) Check the clearance between the pump rotor and rotor body, as shown in Figure 129. If measurement is more than .010 inch, replace pump rotor and rotor body.

(7) Check the oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring and for free operation in its bore. If the plunger is scored, replace plunger.

(8) When assembling the oil pump, be sure to use a new oil seal ring between the cover and body. Tighten cover bolts to 10 foot-pounds torque.

(9) Prime the oil pump, then place a new oil seal ring in the pump mounting face.

c. Inspecting Oil Pressure Relief Valve

The oil pressure relief valve is located in the oil pump body and consists of a plunger, spring and plug.

To inspect the oil pressure relief valve, it will be necessary to unscrew the plug and remove the spring and plunger. Remove any dirt or foreign material, clean thoroughly.

If the plunger shows signs of scoring, or binds in the bore, install a new plunger, then test the spring. The spring should conform to the specifications listed above. If, for any reason, the spring has to be replaced, the same color spring should be used. An exception is where the oil pressure is either above or below specifications.

The valve chart spring shows the spring available for installation, depending on the condition existing.

RELIEF VALVE SPRING CHART

Color

Free

Height

Under-

Load

Height

Tension

Pounds

Gray (Light). .2fte inch

Red (Standard)2yi

inch

Brown (Heavy) 2%

inch

2 y

inch

23y

inch

16.1—17.1

19.5—20.5

22.9—23.9

d. Installation

(1) Install the strainer on the end of the suction tube and secure with a cotter pin.

(2) Install the suction tube into the pump body.

(3) Install the oil pump, suction tube, and strainer to the rear main bearing cap.

Tighten the mounting bolts to 35 footpounds torque.

(4) After the oil pump has been installed, check the alignment of the strainer. The bottom of the stainer must be on a horizontal plane with the machined surface of the cylinder block.

(5) Using a new set of gaskets and seals, install

51x70

Fig. 129—Measuring Clearance Between Pump Rotor and Rotor Body

270—ENGINE

FILTER ELEMENT

SHELL

GASKET

BASE

55x724

MOUNTING GASKET

Fig. 130—Full Flow Type Oil Filter

(Disassembled View) the oil pan. Install the oil pan bolts and tighten evenly to 15 foot-pounds torque.

ROCKER TUBE

OIL PASSAGES

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

48. OIL FILTER

The Full-Flow Oil Filter, as shown in Figure 130, is standard equipment on Chrysler engines. The filter is designed, as the name implies, so that all the oil delivered to the various parts of the engine passes through the filter before entering the oil passages. (Fig. 131).

The filter is also designed in such a manner that it is impossible for the supply of oil to be cut off, even though the filter becomes clogged.

The filter can be removed as follows:

(1) Loosen the shell retaining bolt, and lift off shell and center bolt.

(2) Remove the filter element.

(3) Remove bolts holding filter base to cylinder block and remove filter base.

-TO MAIN BEARINGS

TO CAMSHAFT

BEARINGS

OIL

GALLERIES

TO CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

FLOATING OIL INTAKE

Fig. 131—Flow Of Oil Through Engine

51x991

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

When reinstalling the filter, use new gaskets.

ENGINE—271

CLEAN

KEROSENE

49. HYDRAULIC TAPPETS a. Disassembly

Because of the important part the hydraulic tappets play in the operation of the engine the necessity for proper care and cleanliness of these units cannot be over-emphasized.

Do not disassemble a tappet in dirty surroundings or on a dirty work bench. Use clean paper on the bench and, after the tappet has been disassembled, place the loose parts in the rack. Submerge in clean kerosene as a protection against dirt or corrosion.

Keep the parts of each tappet separate. The plunger and valve must always be fitted in the same body. To disassemble the hydraulic tappet for cleaning and inspection, refer to Figure 132 and proceed as follows:

(1) Using a suitable tool, pry out the plunger retaining spring clip.

(2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of the tappet body above the plunger cap, then invert

PLUNGER RETAINING SPRING CUP

-PLUNGER CAP

TAPPET PLUNGER

-FLAT VALVE

VALVE SPRING

VALVE RETAINER

PLUNGER SPRING

TAPPET BODY

52x389A

Fig. 132—Hydraulic Tappet (Disassembled View)

51x4816

Fig. 133—Tappet Immersed In Clean Kerosene the body and remove the plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and plunger spring.

(3) Separate the plunger, check valve retainer and check valve spring.

(4) Place all parts in their respective locations in the tappet holder, Tool C-3068.

b. Cleaning and Assembly

After having cleaned and inspected the tappets, assemble with care to make sure the parts are installed in the body exactly, as shown in

Figure 132. Under no circumstances attempt to fit the check valve shoulder into the plunger. The finished seat of the check valve is on the side opposite the shoulder.

c. Testing

(1) Secure a container deep enough to completely immerse the tappet assembly (upright position).

(2) Fill the container with clean kerosene. Remove the cap from plunger and submerge tappet assembly, as shown in Figure 133.

(3) Allow cylinder to fill with kerosene, then remove tappet and replace the cap.

(4) Holding the tappet in an upright position,

272—ENGINE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TOOL C-3023

INTAKE VALVE STEM SEAL RING

FIXTURES

V A L V E L O C K S

TOOL C-3133 INTAKE VALVES

51x971C

Fig. 134—Testing The Hydraulic Tappet

EXHAUST VALVE GUIDES

51x934

Fig. 136—Removing Valve Springs insert the lower jaw of pliers, Tool C-3160, in the groove in the tappet body, as shown in Figure 134. Engage the upper jaw of pliers with the top of tappet plunger (cap).

inspected, and tested, install in the engine as follows:

(1) Place the engine in right-side up position, then install the hydraulic tappets, as shown in Figure 135. (When installing tappets, be sure each is installed in its original bore.)

50. CYLINDER HEAD a. Disassembly

With the cylinder heads mounted in holding fixture, Tool C-3133, as shown in Figure 136, proceed to disassemble as follows: d. Installation

After the hydraulic tappets have been cleaned,

(1) Compress the valve springs, using Tool

3 0 2 3 R e m o v e e a c h o f t h e y a l v e l o c k g Re

_ lease and remove spring compressing tool.

(2) Remove the valve spring retainers and valve stem seal rings (intake valves only) and the outer and inner valve springs (Fig. 137).

NOTE

It should be noted for assembling purposes, that the intake valve spring retainers differ slightly from the exhaust valve spring retainers. Note also that thin valve stem seal rings are used in the intake valve spring retainers just under the valve locks.

Fig. 135—Installing Tappet Assembly

5x5%

(3) Check the lock grooves in the valve stems for burrs. Remove burrs, if present, with a file or stone to prevent damaging valve guides when the valves are removed.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

EXHAUST

VALVE

INTAKE

VALVE

ENGINE—273

VALVE GUIDE CLEANING TOOL

EXHAUST VALVE

SPRING SEAT

INTAKE VALVE

SPRING SEAT

INTAKE VALVE

STEM SEAL RING

VALVE LOCKS

51x930

Fig. 137—Valves and Valve Springs

(Disassembled View)

(4) Remove valves from each head and place in a numbered rack.

Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

b. Inspection

Remove all carbon and varnish from the valves, using a fine, brass wire brush. Inspect each valve and discard, if it is burned, warped, or cracked.

Measure the stem of each valve. The intake valve stems should measure from .372 to .373 inch and exhaust from .371 to .372 inch. This measurement should be taken at several places on the valve stem with a micrometer. If wear exceeds

.002 inch, replace the valve.

Remove the carbon and varnish deposits from the interior of the valve guides, using cleaner,

Tool C-756, as shown in Figure 138. After all traces of carbon and varnish have been removed from both the valve stems and guides, check the valve stem-to-guide clearance with a dial indicator as follows:

Fig. 138—Cleaning Valve Guides (Tool C-756)

To insure an accurate reading, and also to prevent unnecessary removal of parts, the valve stem-to-guide clearance should be checked with the valves that are to be installed in their respective guides. This means that if new valves are to be installed, they should be used for checking the old valve guides in the same manner.

(1) Slide sleeve, Tool C-3025, on intake valve, or Tool C-3026 on exhaust valve stem, as shown in Figure 139. Insert valve in position in the cylinder head.

(2) Attach dial indicator, Tool C-3339, to the cylinder head and set at right angle to the edge of valve being checked, as shown in

Figure 140.

(3) Move the valve to and from the indicator.

The total dial indicator reading should not

INTAKE VALVE

CHECKING SLEEVE

EXHAUST VALVE

CHECKING SLEEVE

51x33

Fig. 139—Installing Sleeves To Check

Guide Clearance

274—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

\f73REAM IN PLACE EXHAUST VALVE STEM GUIDE /

REAM I N

PLACE INTAKE VALVE STEM GUIDE/

, \f ASSEMBLE EXHAUST VALVE STEM GUIDES

WITH OIL HOLE IN THIS POSITION

51x34

Fig. 140—Checking Valve Guide Clearance

(Tool C-3339) exceed .007 inch on intake valves, or .015

inch on exhaust valves. If readings are more than the above specifications, install new valve guides as required.

c. Removal and Installation of Valve Guides

Should the above dial indicator reading indicate the need for new valve guides, the old guides can be removed and new ones installed as follows:

(1) Using Tool C-3150, drive out the guides to be replaced through the top of the cylinder heads.

(2) Turn the cylinder head with the combustion chambers facing up. Place the new valve guide in position in valve port and drive into head.

NOTE

When installing new exhaust valve guides, make

51x36

Fig. 141—Exhaust and Intake Valve Guides

Installed In Head certain that the oil hole near the top of the guide is facing up, as shown in Figure

It is very important that the valve guides be driven down to the correct position. This can be determined as follows:

(3) Place a steel scale across the combustion chamber dome, as shown in Figure 142.

Drive the intake valve guides down until the punch mark on the side of Driving

Tool C-3150 is flush with the face of the cylinder head.

(4) Drive the exhaust valve guides down until the flat end of the valve guide is flush with the top of the valve guide boss.

(5) After new valve guides have been installed, using Tool C-741, ream each guide from .374 to

PUNCH MARK ON

INSTALLING TOOL

FLUSH WITH

FACE OF CYLINDER

HEAD

Fig. 142—Installing Intake Valve Guide

(Tool C-3150)

5 1 x 3 5

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

.375 inch, as shown in Figure 143.

Should inspection of the cylinder heads indicate cracked, loose, or badly pitted valve seat inserts, they may be removed and new inserts installed.

d. Removal and Installation of Valve Seat

Inserts

Valve seat inserts should be removed and installed with the use of proper tools. Inserts can be replaced several times, if necessary, without materially affecting the diametrical dimensions of the counterbore in the cylinder head, providing a certain amount of care is taken.

Replacement of valve seat inserts sometimes becomes necessary when reducing the valve seating surface with a 20 degree stone. NEVER, under any circumstances, should the grinding process be allowed to extend beyond the width of the insert.

(1) Position adaptor, Tool SP-1127 (part of Tool

C-3140), over the insert to be removed.

(2) Insert the puller jaw head portion of the tool down in the valve port opening so that it rests in the depression of the adaptor.

(3) Tighten the puller bolt until the jaws of the tool are firmly embedded in position.

(4) Position the body of tool so that it also rests squarely on the adaptor, Tool SP-1127. Install the puller bolt nut and washer.

(5) Pull the insert from the cylinder head by turning the puller bolt nut in a clockwise

ENGINE—275

51x973

Fig. 144—Enlarging Valve Seat Insert Counterbore

(Tool MH-M-L) direction and, at the same time, hold the puller bolt.

After the inserts have been removed from the heads, smooth any irregularities at the bottom of the counterbore in the cylinder head with a blunt drift.

If a valve seat insert is loose, it will be necessary to remove the insert and to install an oversize insert. Exhaust valve seats are available in standard and .010 inch oversize.

The installation of an oversize insert will require enlarging the counterbore, as shown in

Figure 144. Valve seat inserts should be from

.002 to .004 inch larger than the counterbore to insure a correct and permanent fit. To prevent damaging the cylinder head surface during the

51x40

Fig. 143—Reaming Valve Guides (Tool C-741)

51x974

Fig. 145—Installing New Valve Seat Insert

(Tool C-767)

276—ENGINE counterboring operation, place a used cylinder head gasket on the head, mount Tool MH-M-1, and proceed with the boring operation.

(6) Place the inserts to be installed in a container of dry ice (solidified carbon dioxide) for approximately 10 minutes.

(7) Thoroughly clean the counterbores in the cylinder heads, removing all metal chips and foreign material.

(8) Place a chilled insert in the counterbore— valve side up.

(9) Drive the insert in place, using installing

Tool C-767, as shown in Figure 145.

NOTE

This operation must be done quickly while the insert is cold.

(10) Check the valve seat for concentricity with the valve guide, using a dial indicator. Runout should not exceed .002 inch total indicator reading after regrinding.

e. Refacing Valves and Seats

To insure a positive sealing of the valve to the seat, the grinding wheel of the valve ref acer and the stones of the seat grinder should be carefully refaced. In each case, the setup should be such that the finished angle of both the valve and the seat are identical.

When refacing the valves with Tool MTH-80, remove only a small amount of metal at a time to insure a smooth, accurate surface on the valve

CONTACT SURFACE

VALVE SEAT

Fig. 146—Valve Seat Reconditioning Angles

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

51x42

Fig. 147—Grinding Valve Seats (Tool MTH-JB-41) face. After the valves have been refaced, check the valve head margin of each valve. (See Fig.

146). The margin must be at least %

inch.

Otherwise, the valve should be discarded.

When refacing the valve seats, it is essential that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for the reseating stones.

Grind the seats with Tool MTH-JB-41, as shown in Figure 147. A true and complete surface must be obtained. Check the concentricity of the seat, using dial indicator No. 9320. The total runout should not exceed .002 inch (total indicator reading). Check the valve seat with

Prussian blue to determine where the valve contacts the seat. It is important that this contact be centralized on the valve face. If this contact surface is not properly centralized, the seat should be relocated by using a 20 degree stone at the top, or a 60 degree stone at the bottom, whichever is necessary. When the seat is properly positioned, the width of intake seats should be %

to %

2 inch. The width of the exhaust seats should be

%4 to

inch.

f. Testing Valve Springs

Whenever the valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs should be tested. Place the outer valve spring on the seat of Tool C-647, as shown in Figure 148. Attach torque wrench and check the tension. The reading on torque wrench should be multiplied by two to obtain the correct spring tension reading. Discard springs that do not meet specifications.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—277

MINIMUM MEASUREMENT

MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT

VALVE STEM LENGTH GAUGE

Fig. 148—Testing Valve Springs

54x333

Each spring should be checked for squareness.

This can be done with a steel square and surface plate. Stand each spring and the square on end on the surface plate and slide the spring up to the square. Gradually revolve the spring and, at the same time, observe the space between the top coil of the spring and the square, as shown in

Figure 149. The trueness of the spring should not exceed %

inch. If the spring is more than Ke inch out of square, install new spring.

When assembling valve springs, make certain the closed coils are toward the cylinder head.

If valves and/or seats are reground, check the installed height of the springs. If the height is

He inches or greater, install a %

inch spacer

(Part No. 1400482) in the head counterbore to

Fig. 149—Checking Valve Spring For Squareness

Fig. 150—Checking Valve Stem Position x 7 5 8 bring the spring height back to a nominal 1% to I

Ke inches.

NOTE

Whenever valves and seats are reground, the position of the valve in the head will be changed, shortening the operating length of the hydraulic tappet. This means that the plunger is operating closer to its bottomed position and less clearance is available for the thermal expansion of the valve mechanism during high speed driving.

Design of plunger travel includes a safety factor for normal wear and refacing of valves and seats. However, if face and seat grinding is carried to the point where the valve position is

changed %

inch, or more, from its factory installed position, the dimension from the valve spring seat in the head to the valve tip should be checked with gauge C-3061, as shown in Figure 150.

NOTE

When new valves and inserts are installed, remove the hydraulic tappet and remove the varnish ring above the tappet plunger travel. Clean the tappet, as described in this section.

278—ENGINE

INTAKE VALVE STEM SEAL RING

INTAKE VALVE SPRING RETAINER

INTAKE VALVE SPRING (OUTERS

INTAKE VALVE SPRING (INNER)-

INTAKE VALVES

VALVE LOCKS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

DOWEL PIN HOLES

FIXTURES

TOOL C-3133

EXHAUST VALVE GUIDES

51 x933A

Fig. 151—Installing Inner and Outer Intake Valve

Springs and Retainers g. Assembly

After all parts of the cylinder heads have been checked and corrected, assemble the cylinder heads as follows:

(1) Coat the intake valve stems with lubricating oil, and insert in position in the head. Install the inner and outer valve springs and retainers, as shown in Figure 151.

(2) Compress the valve springs with Tool

C-3023. Install the valve stem seal rings.

Seat seal rings in bore of spring retainers, using Tool C-3057.

(3) Coat the exhaust valve stems with lubricating oil and insert in head. Install the inner

VALVE LOCKS

.EXHAUST VALVE SPRING RETAINER

EXHAUST VALVE SPRING (OUTER)

EXHAUST VALVE SPRING (INNER)

EXHAUST VALVES FIXTURES

TOOL C-3133

INTAKE VALVES

5U931A

Fig. 152—Installing Inner and Outer Exhaust Valve

Springs and Retainers

DOWEL PINS

Fig. 153—Cylinder Head Locating Dowels and outer valve springs and retainers, as shown in Figure 152.

(4) Compress the valve springs with Tool

C-3023, install valve locks, and release tool.

Install cylinder heads on block, using new head gaskets.

CAUTION

When installing cylinder heads, coat both sides of gaskets liberally with MOPAR Perfect Seal

Sealing Compond to insure proper sealing. Be sure the cylinder heads and gasket faces are properly lined up over the locating dowels, as shown in Figure 153.

51. ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLIES

If the rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning and inspection, or for the replacement of worn or damaged parts, assemble as follows:

(1) Refer to Figures 154 and 155 and set tubes and brackets on bench in a vertical position.

(Both rocker arm tubes are stamped, "IN" for Intake and "EX" for Exhaust.)

(2) Slide a spacer spring over tube marked "IN".

Install an intake rocker arm on tube with the push rod recess toward the exhaust tube.

NOTE

The intake rocker arms are smaller or shorter than the exhaust rocker arms.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COTTER PINS

ROCKER ARMS

SPACER SPRINGS

ENGINE—279

PINS

ROCKER ARM SHAFT BRACKETS

5 1 x 8 9 0

VALVE STEM

OIL HOLES

Fig. 154—Rocker Arm Assembly (Disassembled View)

COTTER

PINS

(3) Install an exhaust rocker arm on "EX" tube and a spacer spring.

(4) Install the rocker arm tube bracket with the oil inlet hole in the boss (hole should be on the outside of the "IN" tube).

(5) Slide a spacer spring on the "IN" tube and install the next intake rocker arm.

(6) Install the next exhaust rocker arm and spacer spring on the "EX" tube.

LOCATING

BUSHINGS

LUBRICATING OIL HOLE FROM

CAMSHAFT BEARING

51x891

Fig. 155—Rocker Arm Assembly (Upper-Top View;

Lower-Bottom View)

NOTE

Of the three remaining rocker tube brackets, the last bracket to install is the one with the cotter pin holes drilled through the tube bores.

(.7) Install the next rocker arm bracket and slide a spacer spring on the "IN" tube.

(8) Install the next exhaust rocker arm on the

"EX" tube and install a spacer spring.

(9) Install the next intake rocker arm on "IN" tube. Slide the next rocker arm tube bracket over tube and down into position.

Repeat steps (5) and (6) above. Install the last rocker arm tube bracket and secure the assembly with cotter pins. Assemble the remaining rocker arm assembly in like manner.

(10) Insert the cylinder head bolts into the brackets, with the short bolts toward the intake side.

280—ENGINE

(11) Insert the push rods through the push rod holes in the heads—the short rods in the upper holes (intake) and the long rods in the lower holes (exhaust) in the heads, as shown in Figure 156.

(12) Place rocker arm assemblies in position on the heads, lining up all push rods with their respective rocker arms. Starting at the top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts to

85 foot-pounds torque, as shown in Figure

157.

52. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY, HUB AND

DAMPER INSTALLATION

Refer to Figure 158, then proceed as follows:

(1) Insert the pulley hub key in the slot in the crankshaft, then position a new dust seal in the hub of the pulley and position the assembly on the crankshaft.

(2) Place installing tool, (part of puller set

C-3033) in position, then insert the pulley flatwasher between the tool and hub. Press the pulley on shaft until seated.

(3) Remove the tool and install the damper and pulley to hub.

(4) Install washer and retaining nut. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds torque.

53. WATER PUMP

For servicing and installation of water pump, refer to Cooling System Section.

INTAKE PUSH RODS'

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 157—Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts (Sequence)

54. FUEL PUMP

For servicing and installation of fuel pump, refer to Fuel System Section.

55. DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING (Removal card Installation)

It is advisable to remove and install the distributor drive shaft lower bushing when the engine is completely overhauled. A worn bushing can cause erratic distributor operation which will affect car performance.

To remove and install the distributor lower drive shaft bushing, proceed as follows:

DUST SEAL

DAMPER

PULLEY

HUB

Fig. 156—Push Rods Installed In Head

LOCK WASHER

RETAINER WASHER

51x980

Fig. 158—Vibration Damper Assembly

(Disassembled View)

BOLT

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 159—Removing and Installing Distributor Drive

Shaft Bushing

(1) Insert Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained.

Hold the puller head with a wrench, tighten puller bolt and pull out of bore in the block, as shown in Figure 159.

(2) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of

Tool C-3053, as shown in Figure 159. Insert tool and bushing into bore of block.

REAM THIS BUSHING!

56. DISTRIBUTOR BASIC TIMING

Before installing the distributor lower drive shaft gear, it will be necessary to time the engine as follows:

(1) Rotate the crankshaft until Number One cylinder is at the top dead center (firing position) . When in this position, the pointer on the chain case cover should be over "DC" on the vibration damper.

(2) Using Tool C-3027, position the oil pump shaft so that it lines up with the slot in the drive gear, as shown in Figure 160.

ENGINE—281

(3) Coat the shaft of the drive gear with engine oil, then install so that as the gear spirals into position it will index with the oil pump shaft and the slot in the top of the drive gear will be parallel with the centerline of the crankcase, as shown in Figure 160.

57. VALVE TIMING CHECKING

Set the dial indicator on zero and then turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until the dial indicator shows that the valve has lifted .024 inch.

The timing on the crankshaft pulley should now read from 5 degrees before top dead center to 7 degrees after top dead center. If the reading is over the specified limits, check the gear indexing marks and the timing chain for wear.

Before making this check, it is well to check the accuracy of the TDC mark on the pulley by bringing the Number One piston to top dead cen-

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

Fig. 160—Distributor (Basic) Timing

282—ENGINE ter by means of an indicator placed in the spark plug opening.

After the valve timing has been checked, turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the tappet is back down to the valve closed position; then remove the .210 inch spacer from between the rocker arm and valve stem.

CAUTION

Under no condition, should the crankshaft be turned further in clockwise direction, as the spacer might cause the valve spring to bottom and damage the valve operating mechanism.

58. FINAL ASSEMBLY OF ENGINE

(1) Install the exhaust manifolds on the cylinder heads, using new gaskets. Tighten nuts to 25 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Place new valve chamber tappet cover gaskets in position and install tappet chamber cover. Tighten bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the crankcase ventilator pipe on the tappet chamber cover. Insert the oil level indicator (dip stick) tube in position and press into block.

(4) Install new rocker cover gaskets, place rocker covers in position, and secure with nuts and bolts. Tighten to 30 inch-pounds torque.

(5) Slide the spark plug tube seals over tubes and install in position in the heads.

(6) Secure a new set of spark plugs and check the gap for .035 inch. Install spark plugs and tighten with Tool C-3054 to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(7) Place the distributor vacuum tube in position and install the intake manifold, using new gaskets. Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE

When installing the intake manifold, insert the short bolts in holes on extreme ends of manifold.

(8) Place a new water outlet elbow gasket in position and install thermostat and outlet elbow.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(9) Hold the distributor over mounting pad on the cylinder block, with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the right hand cylinder bank. Turn the rotor until it points forward to the approximate location of the Number

One insert in the cap. Turn the rotor counter-clockwise until the contact points are just separating. Place the distributor oil seal ring in position, lower the distributor, and engage with the drive shaft gear. At the same time, hold the rotor in position, secure with clamp and bolt, and tighten securely.

(10) Place the spark plug tube seal rings in position. Install the distributor cap, spark plug cables, and insulators. Engage the insulators with the spark plugs and connect the coil.

(11) Install the spark plug cable covers after arranging the spark plug cables. Tighten screws securely.

(12) Coat a new fuel pump gasket with MOPAR

Perfect Seal Sealing Compound and place gasket in position on chain case cover. Insert fuel pump and tighten to 30 footpounds torque. Connect fuel pump outlet tube at fuel pump.

(13) Connect fuel and vacuum tubes and tighten securely.

(14) Insert the carburetor heat tube in the intake manifold and tighten securely.

(15) Install the generator assembly and secure with bolts and lockwashers. Install the fan pulley and generator drive belt.

(16) Install fan belt over fan pulley and around crankshaft pulley and idler pulley.

(17) Install the fan blades, lining up the bolt holes. Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE

When adjusting the fan and generator belts, obtain enough slack on the generator belt so

that the belt may be depressed % inch from a straight line midway between the pulleys.

(18) Install the starting motor and tighten the bolts to 55 foot-pounds torque.

(19) Install oil filter.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—283

INSTALLATION OF ENGINE

(IN THE CAR)

59. ENGINE INSTALLATION

To install the engine assembly in the car, remove engine from repair stand, mount the transmission, and proceed as follows:

(1) Using a suitable overhead hoist, suspend the engine assembly over the engine compartment. (The engine must be at an angle and slanting downward at the rear.)

(2) Being careful not to damage the accessories or the vehicle, lower the engine on the front engine insulators and install insulator bolts to hold engine in alignment.

(3) Holding the engine with the overhead hoist, place a jack under the transmission to support the rear end of engine. Install the rear engine support crossmember and secure with bolts. After the crossmember has been installed, remove the jack and relieve the hoist.

(4) Remove the engine lifter plate and install the carburetor.

(5) Install the radiator shroud.

(6) Connect the usual items under the hood, such as fuel lines, radiator hoses, wires, etc.

(7) Install the hood and battery.

(8) Install the exhaust pipes, using new gaskets as required.

(9) Connect the wires and linkage at the transmission and clutch.

(10) Connect the propeller shaft at the transmission.

(11) Be sure all drain cocks are closed and refill the cooling system. Check the entire system for leaks and correct as necessary.

(12) Refill the engine crankcase with engine oil.

Refer to the Lubrication Section for breakin of new or rebuilt engine.

(13) Start engine and warm it up to 160 degrees

F. Check the distributor timing, as described in the Electrical System Section.

(14) Adjust the carburetor, as described in the

Fuel System Section.

284—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

C-300 CHRYSLER ENGINE

60. GENERAL INFORMATION

The C-300 Chrysler Engine is a modified Fire-

Power V-8 engine. (Fig. 161).

The modifications include twin four-barrel carburetors, a full race camshaft, and mechanical tappets with adjustable valve tappet clearance made possible by adjusting screws at the push rod end of the rocker arms.

From the service standpoint the C-300 engine will be fundamentally the same as the FirePower engine. Though the intake manifold (Fig. 162) of the C-300 engine is different than that of the

FirePower engine, the service procedure will remain the same.

To service the carburetors, refer to the Fuel

System Section.

Adjust valve tappet clearance at rocker arm, as shown in Figure 163.

61. TUNE UP INFORMATION

NOTE

Because of the modifications described, the C-

300 engine will exhibit characteristics which differ from other engines, but should be considered as standard performance for the C-300 engine.

TWIN FOUR-BARREL CARBURETORS

35x718

Fig. 162—Intake Manifold (Top View and

Bottom View)

FEELER GAUGE

Fig. 161—C-300 Chrysler Engine

55x716

ADJUSTING SCREW

AND LOCKNUT

Fig. 163—Adjusting Valve Clearance

55x734

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

These characteristics are as follows:

(1) Somewhat uneven engine idle.

(2) Higher noise level, due to mechanical tappet valve clearance.

(3) Comparatively high engine idle rpm.

(4) Possible roughness on downshift with

PowerFlite equipped units.

62. TUNE UP DATA

Valve Settings

Hot Cold

Intake 015 .015

Exhaust 024 .028

Engine Idle Setting 600 rpm

Ignition Timing 10 degrees B.T.D.C.

ENGINE—285

NOTE

Reduce engine idle to 500 rpm, set ignition at 10 degrees BTDC, and reset engine idle back to

600 rpm.

Automatic Advance Curve

Distributor RPM Distributor Degrees

300-400

400

500

800

0 to 31/2

3 to 5

7 to 9

Vacuum Advance Curve (In Inches of Mercury)

Distributor Vacuum Distributor Degrees

51/2 to 6I/2 1

10 5to6*/

11 6 to 8

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

63. ENGINE WILL NOT START

Possible Causes:

a. Weak battery.

b. Overheated engine.

c. Low compression.

d. Corroded or loose battery terminal connections.

e. Weak coil.

f. Broken or loose ignition wires.

g. Dirty or corroded distributor contact points.

h. Defective ignition switch.

i. Moisture on ignition wires, cap, or plugs.

j . Cracked distributor cap.

k. Fouled spark plugs.

1. Stuck valves.

m. Improper spark plug gap.

n. Improper timing (ignition).

o. Damaged distributor rotor.

p. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.

q. Ice in carburetor or fuel line.

r. Carburetor flooded.

s. Fuel level in carburetor bowl not correct.

t. Insufficient supply of fuel.

u. Defective fuel pump.

w. Vapor lock.

x. Sticking choke.

y. Defective starting motor or solenoid.

z. Defective neutral switch (PowerFlite) or kickdown switch (overdrive).

286—ENGINE

64. ENGINE STALLS

Possible Causes: a. Idling speed too low.

b. Needle valve and seat in carburetor stuck.

c. Idle mixture too lean or too rich.

d. Carburetor flooding.

e. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.

f. Frozen gas line.

g. Incorrect carburetor float level.

h. Leak in intake manifold, distributor vacuum line, or carburetor mounting gaskets.

i. Worn accelerator pump. (Stall occurs on acceleration.) j . Improper choke adjustment.

k. Choke sticking.

1. Carburetor icing (cold, wet weather).

m. Excessive pressures (air conditioning).

n. Loose or corroded battery terminals.

o. Loose ignition wires.

p. Weak battery.

q. Loose ignition switch connection.

r. Spark plugs dirty, damp, or gaps incorrectly set.

s. Distributor advance not operating, t. Defective coil or condenser.

u. Distributor points dirty, burned, or incorrectly spaced.

w. Exhaust system restricted.

x. Trailing edge of rotor worn.

y. Leaks in ignition wiring.

z. Incorrect valve tappet clearance. (C-300) aa. Burned valves.

bb. Low compression.

cc. Engine overheating.

dd. Use of winter fuels in hot weather.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

65. ENGINE HAS NO POWER

Possible Causes: a. Torque converter stator assembled in reverse.

b. Incorrect ignition timing.

c. Weak coil or condenser.

d. Stiff accelerator linkage.

e. Trailing edge of rotor worn.

f. Defective mechanical or vacuum advance

(distributor).

g. Hydraulic tappet pump up (high speed).

h. Excessive play in distributor shaft.

i. Weak spring in contact points.

j . Distributor cam worn.

k. Spark plugs dirty or gap incorrectly set.

1. Insufficient point dwell.

m. Fouled spark plugs.

n. Low grade fuel.

o. Weak valve springs.

p. Carburetor in poor condition.

q. Valves sticking when hot.

r. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.

s. Ice in gas line or carburetor.

t. Improper carburetor float level.

u. Worn camshaft lobes.

v. Defective fuel pump.

w. Pistons or pins fit tight.

x. Valve timing incorrect.

y. Too rich or lean fuel mixture.

z. Incorrect valve tappet clearance (C-300).

aa. Blown cylinder head gasket.

bb. Low compression.

cc. Flow control valve not operating (Power

Steering).

dd. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.

ee. Spark plug breakdown under load.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ff. Plugged, restricted, or damaged muffler or tail pipe.

gg. Overdrive locked. (If so equipped.) hh. Brakes dragging.

ii. Tight wheel bearings, jj. Clutch slipping. (If so equipped.) kk. Engine overheating.

11. Detonation.

mm. Stuck regulator valve (PowerFlite).

nn. Improper ignition or battery ground.

66. ENGINE "LOPES" OR MISSES (AT IDLE)

Possible Causes: a. Air leak between intake manifold and block due to retaining bolts bottoming or damaged gasket.

b. Incorrect carburetor idle adjustment.

c. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.

d. Dirty jets or plugged passages in carburetor.

e. Incorrect valve tappet clearance. (C-300.) f. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.

g. Incorrect ignition timing.

h. Leaks in ignition wiring.

i. Blown head gasket.

j . Air leak at carburetor mounting gasket.

k. Worn lobes on the camshaft.

1. Moisture on ignition wires, cap, or plugs.

m. Worn timing chain.

n. Defective spark advance mechanism.

o. Sticking valves.

p. Excessive play in distributor shaft.

q. Distributor cam worn.

r. Inoperative choke.

s. Spark plugs damp, dirty, or the gaps set too close.

t. Overheated engine.

u. Weak battery.

ENGINE—287 v. Uneven compression.

w. Low grade of fuel. (Winter fuel used in summer.) x. Flooding carburetor.

y. Carburetor icing (cold, damp weather).

67. ENGINE MISSES WHILE IDLING

Possible Causes: a. Spark plugs dirty, damp, or gap incorrectly set.

b. Broken or loose ignition wires.

c. Burned or pitted contact points, or set with insufficient gap.

d. Coil or condenser defective.

e. Weak battery.

f. Distributor cap cracked.

g. Trailing edge of rotor worn.

h. Moisture on ignition wires, cap, or plugs.

i. Excessive play in distributor shaft.

j . Distributor shaft cam worn.

k. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.

1. Incorrect valve tappet clearance. (C-300.) m. Incorrect carburetor idle adjustment.

n. Improper carburetor float level.

o. Low compression.

68. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED

Possible Causes: a. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.

b. Dirty jets in carburetor, especially the economizer jet.

c. Weak coil or condenser.

d. Incorrect ignition timing.

e. Distributor points dirty or incorrectly spaced.

f. Trailing edge of rotor worn.

g. Loose ignition wiring.

h. Excessive play in distributor shaft.

288—ENGINE i. Spark plugs fouled, damp, or dirty, or the gaps set too wide.

j . Insufficient point dwell.

k. Insufficient spring tension on points.

I. Normal hydraulic tappet pump up.

m. Worn camshaft lobes.

n. Weak valve springs. \_

0. Abnormal resistance in spark plugs.

p. Distributor cam lobe worn.

q. Engine overheating.

r. Low grade fuel.

s. Badly worn diaphragm in fuel pump.

t. Detonation or pre-ignition.

u. Frozen heat control valve.

69. EXTERNAL OIL LEAKAGE

Possible Causes:

a. Outside oil lines.

b. Timing gear case cover oil seal.

c. Rear main bearing oil seal.

d. Oil pan gaskets e. Oil pan drain plug.

f. Oil filter gasket.

g. Clogged rear camshaft bearing drain hole.

h. Tappet cover gaskets.

1. Fuel pump or gasket.

j . Timing chain cover gasket.

70. OIL PUMPING PAST PISTON RINGS

Possible Causes:

a. Oil level too high, (a) Dip stick not entering oil pan far enough, (b) Dip stick incorrectly marked.

b. Loose main or connecting rod bearings.

NOTE

Excessive bearing clearance will cause the cylinder walls to be flooded with oil.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL c. Too light oil for the type of service and conditions.

d. Excessively hot operating temperatures.

e. Piston ring gaps riot staggered or incorrect size rings used.

f. Incorrect set of piston rings or rings outof-round.

g. Cylinder head improperly torqued, causing a distortion of the cylinder bores for which the piston rings cannot compensate.

h. Rings fitted too tight in piston.

i. Oil rings carboned up or return grooves in piston clogged.

j . Insufficient piston ring tension.

NOTE

Common condition after engine has overheated.

k. Compression rings installed upside-down.

1. Excessive oil pressure or broken piston rings.

m. Burned piston.

NOTE

This condition can be brought about by excessive detonation and pre-ignition.

n. Scored cylinder walls or piston rings.

o. Excessively worn rings or cylinder walls.

NOTE

This condition can be traced to one or more of the following:

(1) Normal wear.

(2) Failure to keep air cleaners, carburetor, and crankcase filler cap installed and serviced.

(3) Failure to service the oil filter.

(4) Careless filling of the oil pan by allowing dirt or foreign material to fall in.

(5) Failure to clean cylinder walls properly after reboring or honing.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(6) Failure to prevent grindings and stone dust from getting on cylinder walls or improper cleaning of valve ports after grinding seats.

(7) Use of rings with heavier wall tension than necessary.

(8) Excessive speeding of a cold engine. In addition to the foregoing, many engines are overhauled for excessive use of oil or smoking without any degree of success, because the actual cause may be due to any one or more of the following:

(9) Excessive clearance between valve guide and valve stem.

(10) Diaphragm of fuel pump porous.

(11) External oil leaks.

(12) Internal oil leak into cooling system.

The above covers the most common causes of oil pumping past the rings.

71. OIL PUMPING AT VALVE GUIDES

Possible Causes:

a. Worn valve stems or guides.

b. Intake valve stem guide in inverted position. (FirePower engine.) c. Intake valve seals damaged or missing.

72. HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION DUE TO

LUBRICATING OIL

Possible Causes:

a. Oil level too high.

b. Contaminated oil.

c. Poor grade of oil.

d. Thin, diluted oil.

e. Oil pressure too high.

f. Sludge in engine.

73. HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION-

MISCELLANEOUS

Possible Causes:

a. Overheated engine.

b. Sustained high speeds.

ENGINE—289 c. Misadjusted breather cap, causing excessive crankcase ventilation.

Certain mechanical conditions can affect engine oil pressure readings. In order to aid in determining the cause, the following conditions and possible causes are listed.

74. NO OIL PRESSURE WHEN ENGINE IS

FIRST STARTED

Possible Causes: a. Oil from the oil galleries and oil filter has drained back into the oil pan when the engine was shut off.

b. Frozen or partially clogged oil gauge line.

75. NO OIL PRESSURE AT IDLE

Possible Causes:

a. Oil gauge not registering properly, due to higher than normal pressure required to start gauge registering.

b. Excessive oil pump rotor end clearance.

c. Stuck oil relief valve.

d. Loose main and connecting rod bearings.

e. Loose camshaft bearings.

f. Plugs removed from end of rocker shafts, or are loose.

g. Internal oil passage leakage.

h. Oil pump body cover seal ring blown or missing.

i. Oil pump body cover seal ring replaced with common gasket.

76. NO OIL PRESSURE ON FAST STARTS OR

RAPID ACCELERATION

Possible Causes:

a. Low oil level in oil pan.

b. Oil pump suction tube not aligned, or bent, causing the floating oil strainer to bind on side of oil pan.

c. Oil pump suction tube too long (allows the oil pump floater oil strainer to bind in recess in front of oil pan).

d. Floating oil strainer not adj usted properly.

290—ENGINE

The floating oil strainer should be horizontal with the bottom of the block when it is at the bottom of its travel.

e. Excessive main or connecting rod bearing clearances.

f. Oil pump rotor pin sheared.

g. Expansion plug missing in oil pump cover.

h. Oil filter and oil filter by-pass plugged.

i. Air leak in oil pump suction tube.

j . Oil pump floating strainer plugged.

k. Oil pump relief valve stuck open.

1. Internal oil passage leak.

77. BROKEN VALVES

Possible Causes: a. Weak valve springs.

b. Worn valve guides.

c. Excessive tappet clearance. (C-300.) d. Cocked springs or retainers.

e. Out-of-round block seats.

f. Defective valve forgings.

g. Excessive engine speeds.

h. Detonation.

78. BURNED OR STICKING VALVES

Possible Causes: a. Close tappet clearance. (C-300.) b. Weak valve springs.

c. Gum formations on stem or guide.

d. Eccentric valve face.

e. Deposits on valve seats.

f. Incorrect valve seat width.

g. Improper valve guide clearance.

h. Warped valves.

i. Improper block cooling, j . Exhaust back pressure.

k. Improper spark timing.

1. Out-of-round valve seat.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

79. NOISY VALVES

Possible Causes: a. Incorrect tappet clearance. (C-300.) b. Worn tappets or a d j u s t i n g screws.

(C-300.) c. Wear in cam lobes.

d. Worn valve guides.

e. Excessive run-out of valve seat or valve face.

NOTE

When replacing valve guides, be sure the counterbore in guide is up for exhaust and down for intake.

80. BROKEN VALVE SPRINGS

Possible Causes: a. Valve flutter at high speed.

b. Improper crankcase ventilation.

c. Worn timing chain.

d. Cold engine operation due to defective thermostat.

e. Rust, due to improper storage.

81. VALVE DEPOSITS

Possible Causes a. Quality of fuel.

b. Quality of lubricating oil.

c. Valve stem wear.

d. Improper cooling of block.

e. Sludged engine.

f. Worn valve guides.

g. Improper lubrication of valve stem.

h. Excessive engine idling.

i. Rich carburetor setting.

When diagnosing the cause of valve failure, it must be remembered, that a valve can only transfer its heat to the cylinder block or head through the valve seats, guides, and tappets to the cooling system. There is only one basic cause for valve failure and that is the inability of a

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL valve to dissipate its heat into the cooling system.

The following information is presented as an aid in diagnosing valve failure and also help in preventing a recurrence. Some of the common conditions which can cause both intake and exhaust valve failure are: a. Deposit build-up under the head of the valves, as well as on the top. This deposit acts as a heat retainer and prevents cooling of the valve in the normal manner.

b. Deposits on the upper part of the valve stems which prevents full seating of the valves.

c. Sludge deposits on the end of the valve and springs will cause the valve to stick, and is caused by poor maintenance of engine oil or filter. Low engine operating temperatures due to inoperative thermostat, or short intermittent engine operation. This latter condition does not allow the engine to reach operating temperature to evaporate the condensation in the crankcase.

Another condition, is extreme slow driving of the vehicle which does not allow sufficient crankcase ventilation to remove condensation.

d. Insufficient tappet clearance or operating clearance between tappet plunger and bottom of tappet body (hydraulic tappets).

On hydraulic tappets, this condition is usually caused by excessive grinding and allows the valve stems to extend further out of the head.

Sufficient clearance is very important and will insure complete closing of the valves after maximum expansion has taken place under high speed operating conditions.

e. Valves or seats that are not ground concentric with the valve guide. This can be due to worn refacing equipment. Valve-tb-seat contact should be checked with a film of Prussian blue.

f. Improper valve seat width. The maximum permissible width is %

inch to %

inch minimum. If the seats have been refaced and are wider than specified, they should be narrowed by using a 20 degree stone on top and a 60 degree stone at the bottom.

ENGINE—291 g. Valve and valve seat not refaced to a 45 degree angle, due to worn or inaccurate equipment.

h. Excessively refaced valves. The distance between the top edge of the valve face and the top of the valve must not be less than %

inch.

Discard any valve that does not meet specifications.

i. Weak valve springs. Springs that fail to pull the valve down and hold it firmly on its seat.

j . Incorrect valve timing.

k. Excessive valve guide wear. This condition will not allow proper cooling and permits oil to be sucked into the intake ports, causing a carbon formation which could lead to valve sticking.

1. Restrictions in the cooling passages around the valve seats caused by excessive scale and rust deposits. This is the result of not using a rust inhibitor in the cooling system.

m. Engine overheating to such a degree that there is insufficient coolant to help dissipate the valve heat.

82. CONDITIONS COMMON TO INTAKE

VALVE FAILURE

a. Sticking valves. This condition can be brought about by heavy carbon and/or a varnish deposit on the valve stem and head. This gum, which has formed in the gasoline, is a result of its exposure to air for an extended period. In some cases, where gum and varnish has deposited on the valve stem, it has been known to cause valve sticking while the engine is hot and operating under power, yet still giving a good idle when the engine is relatively cool.

Cars which have been improperly prepared for extended storage or have been using fuel from bulk storage that is used very little—such as on a farm or ranch during the winter months—are susceptible to this type of valve sticking.

Heavy carbon deposit, as a result of short operation, such as driving the vehicle daily for

a prolonged period in and out of the service department to an outside storage space.

Rust. This condition results from prolonged storage without proper preparation.

292—ENGINE b. Valve pounding or face grooving. This condition is closely associated with valve sticking since it prevents free movement of the valve in the guides. This causes uncontrolled seating of the valves, which results in ridges being pounded into the face of the valve. This is more noticeable when the valves are running excessively hot due to deposits. When this condition exists, bright polished rings are usually found around the valve stem. This condition can be further aggravated should the fuel contain any corrosive additives.

c. Valve dishing and valve face grooving.

This condition is usually the result of an overheating condition which can further be aggravated by, or attributed to, pre-ignition or detonation.

83. CONDITIONS COMMON TO EXHAUST

VALVE FAILURE a. Back-pressure due to restrictions in the exhaust system, which prevents rapid expulsion of the hot gases.

b. Excessively lean fuel-air mixture.

c. Carburetion (improper size jets).

d. Air leaking into the intake manifold.

e. Air leak at carburetor mounting or throttle body gaskets.

f. Air leaks in vacuum line for windshield wipers (if so equipped), booster brakes, or other vacuum-operated accessories.

When this type leak occurs, the same valves will fail and will usually be those at, or beyond, the point of leakage (further away from the carburetor).

Due to the rotating action of the valve, the actual point of burning on the face of the valve will not necessarily be an indication of actual point of air leakage into the intake manifold.

g. Early ignition timing.

h. Detonation or pre-ignition.

i. Overloaded engines, such as pulling heavy house trailers or luggage trailers.

j . Excessive compression due to improper or planned cylinder heads or improper pistons.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL k. Low grade guel.

1. The use of fuels to which an engine may be converted, such as butane.

m. Heat control valves stuck in the closed position.

As a matter of interest, broken or cracked exhaust valve seats, as well as cylinder blocks or heads with cracks radiating out from an exhaust valve port, can be traced to prolonged operation with burned or leaking exhaust valves.

84. PISTON RING NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Broken ring.

b. Top ring striking cylinder ridge.

c. Broken ring lands.

d. Excessive side clearance in groove.

85. PISTON NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Piston pin fit too tight or too loose.

b. Excessive piston-to-bore clearance.

c. Carbon accumulations in head.

d. Collapsed piston skirt.

e. Insufficient clearance at top ring land.

f. Broken piston, skirt, or ring land.

g. Misaligned connecting rods.

86. CONNECTING.ROD.NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Low oil pressure.

b. Insufficient oil supply.

c. Thin or diluted oil.

d. Misaligned rods.

e. Excessive bearing clearance.

f. Eccentric or out-of-round crank pin journal.

87. MAIN BEARING NOISE

Possible Causes:

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL a. Low oil pressure.

b. Insufficient oil supply.

c. Thin or diluted oil.

d. Loose flywheel or torque converter.

e. Excessive bearing clearance.

f. Excessive end play.

g. Eccentric or out-of-round journals.

h. Sprung crankshaft.

88. BROKEN PISTON RINGS

Possible Causes: a. Wrong type or size.

b. Detonation.

c. Undersize pistons.

d. Pre-ignition.

e. Ring striking top ridge.

f. Worn ring grooves.

g. Rings assembled wrong.

h. Broken ring lands.

i. Insufficient gap clearance.

j . Excessive side clearance in groove.

k. Uneven cylinder walls (particularly due to a previous ring breakage in same cylinder).

89. BROKEN PISTONS

Possible Causes: a. Undersize pistons.

b. Eccentric or tapered cylinders.

c. Misaligned connecting rod.

d. Engine overheating.

e. Water or fuel leakage into combustion chamber.

f. Detonation or pre-ignition.

90. DETONATION

Detonation, pre-ignition, and after-running are abnormal types of combustion. Normal combustion starts at the spark plug and the flame ex-

ENGINE—293 pands at the extremes of the combustion chamber. During the short period of combustion, a high pressure is produced which pushes down on the piston to develop engine power.

Detonation occurs after the spark plug fires, when some of the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber is ignited by spontaneous combustion before the flame reaches it. The mixture is burned much more rapidly than during normal combustion. This detonation creates an explosion which produces excessive temperatures and pressures. Detonation is most easily recognized by a pinging sound during acceleration or continuous wide open throttle operation, such as climbing a steep hill.

A detonation complaint is usually concerned with noise that is produced. Although a mild case of detonation will not damage an engine, excessive detonation may result in engine failure, caused by the excessive temperatures and pressures. The parts affected by detonation will be easily identified. Broken piston rings, broken and burned piston ring lands, and blown cylinder head gaskets.

Detonation is caused primarily by the following : a. Advanced spark timing.

b. Combustion chamber deposits.

c. Low octane fuels.

d. Excessively high coolant or air temperatures.

When correcting a detonation complaint the first thing to check is the spark timing. If detonation persists at the proper timing, the distributor should be removed and checked to see if it conforms to the advance specifications and adjusted, if necessary. Further investigation depends on the type of operation. If the vehicle is used primarily for light duty, the detonation probably results from excessive combustion chamber deposits. These should be removed.

91. PRE-IGNITION

Pre-ignition is the burning of the air-fuel mixture before the spark plug fires. The mixture is ignited by a hot spot in the combustion chamber. Since this is equivalent to advancing the

294—ENGINE spark, it results in a reaction similar to severe detonation. The temperature and pressure in the combustion chamber are higher than those produced during normal combustion.

Generally, pre-ignition produces a pinging sound which is louder than detonation. However, if pre-ignition occurs early enough on the compression stroke, it is not audible. If it occurs before the intake valve closes, the engine will backfire through the air cleaner.

In many cases, it is difficult to distinguish between audible pre-ignition and detonation; in fact, they may occur simultaneously. Audible pre-ignition may be isolated from detonation by accelerating the vehicle at wide open throttle

(not above 2000 rpm) until the loud pinging is heard and then turning off the ignition. If the engine continues to fire, it is pre-ignition; if it ceases to fire, the engine is detonating. Remove the foot from accelerator pedal before turning on the ignition again.

Inaudible pre-ignition is difficult to distinguish during operation, but it can be recognized by the failures it can produce, as noted below.

If the engine back-fires through the air cleaner during wide open throttle operation, a colder set of spark plugs should be installed. If the back-firing ceases, it was probably caused by pre-ignition. If the engine continues to backfire, it is caused by other factors, such as faulty ignition, incorrect carburetor mixture, incorrect valve timing, or a worn camshaft.

Inaudible pre-ignition cannot be recognized until a piston or valve failure occurs. It is generally caused by a hot spark plug. Check for hot plug as described previously.

92. AFTER-RUNNING

After-running is a compression ignition of the engine at very slow speeds after the ignition has been turned off.

This condition is a source of irritation to the owner but it does not cause engine failure. Afterrunning is primarily caused by one or more of the following factors: a. Fast idle speed.

b. High coolant temperatures.

c. Combustion chamber deposits.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

After-running is generally caused by fast idle speed or cutting the ignition before the engine throttles down to idle. The idle speed should be properly adjusted and the owner questioned as to whether he has the habit of pumping the accelerator pedal before turning off the ignition.

If this does not correct the complaint, the vehicle should be checked for overheating.

If the vehicle has been used primarily for light duty operation, some highway operation will remove combustion chamber deposits which may eliminate the complaint.

This complaint cannot be corrected with cold spark plugs.

93. IGNITION TIMING

Due to normal variations between engines in their fuel requirements, high altitude operation

(which results in a richer fuel mixture that reduces the octane requirements of the engine), and the variations in octane ratings of the fuels being marketed, the established ignition timing setting of 4 degrees BTDC for the V-8 engines should be considered a basic or starting point when tuning an engine. As a result of the conditions mentioned, a variation of plus or minus

4 degrees from the starting setting is permissible.

CAUTION

The advancing of timing in excess of U degrees of the basic setting is not recommended, as inaudible pre-ignition could be encountered under some operating conditions at high speeds.

When tuning an engine to obtain maximum performance, economy, and smooth operation, and to take advantage of variations in octane requirements, it is desirable to make the final ignition timing during actual road test. Should the final timing be made during the road test, it is suggested the following procedure be followed : a. Set the ignition timing at 4 degrees BTDC.

b. Drive the vehicle until normal operating temperature has been reached.

c. While in high gear, decelerate the car to

15 mph or just before the transmission down-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—295 shifts (if automatic) ; then, with a wide open throttle, accelerate to about 30 mph.

d. During this wide open throttle operation, if a slight unobjectionable pinging or detonation is heard that disappears as the car approaches

30 mph, the timing can be considered to be the best setting; however, if the pinging or detonation is objectionable, the timing should be retarded 1 degree at a time until the proper setting has been reached.

94. STARTING NOISE

This is a condition where the tappets are noisy upon starting and remain so for approximately

5 or 10 minutes, or until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.

Possible Causes: a. Engine oil drain-back.

If the check valve is plugged, the oil drains out of the oil galleries and drilled passages into the oil pan. This occurs when the engine is not operating. Upon starting, it is necessary that the oil pump refill the system and, at the same time, force the air that entered the system through the tappets out of the engine. Until the oil system has been refilled and all the air bled out, noisy tappets may be experienced.

b. Filter change.

This may cause the same condition as above, and for the same reasons. Air trapped in the lubricating system may require a minimum of

20 to 30 minutes to bleed out. When changing an oil filter element, there is always a possibility that air may be trapped in the cover of the filter and not work out through the tappets until some time later after the tappets have originally quieted.

c. Tappet varnish.

The problem of tappet varnish will not necessarily hinder the tappets since they are designed to allow the varnish to build up in areas that do not affect their operation. There is, however, a condition in which a varnish-coated tappet can possibly cause trouble; this is when a valve has been replaced. This repair can effectively change the length of the valve mechanism and thereby allow the tappet plunger to operate in a new position in the body which may have a varnish build-up and result in the plunger sticking.

d. Anti-freeze.

Starting noise can also be caused by a gummy deposit, which results from leakage of antifreeze or glycol into the engine oil. When cold, this deposit will be hard, but when hot, it becomes soft and gummy. This, therefore, is another reason excessive tappet noise can be experienced when starting, gradually disappearing as the gummy substance softens and allows the plungers to assume their normal operating positions. If this deposit is permitted to remain, it can eventually cause scuffing of the hydraulic tappet plunger.

e. Normal tappet leakdown.

This condition occurs on all engines and is due to the normal leakdown of the tappets that remain under valve spring pressure when the engine is shut off. The expulsion of air and the duration for quieting these particular tappets is dependent on the clearance to which the tappet plunger body has been fitted. The closer the fit, the longer duration.

95. ALL TAPPETS NOISY

In cases where all 16 tappets are noisy, it is generally safe to assume that the noise is not the fault of the tappets, but of the oil supply, which is inadequate, or into which air has been induced. No advantage can be gained by installing 16 new tappets unless they are found to be stuck due to an anti-freeze leak. In this case it is imperative that the leak be corrected to prevent reoccurrence.

Possible Causes:

a. Drain plug out of oil pan.

The loss of the drain plug from the oil pan will result in the loss of oil and oil pump pressure.

b. Plug out of the oil pump cover.

A plug out of the oil pump cover will permit the majority of oil from the pump to escape back into the oil pan. This usually shows up as fluctuation or low oil pressure on the gauge.

c. Floating oil strainer stuck up.

296—ENGINE

The floating oil strainer momentarily hanging up and preventing oil from being drawn into the oil pump. When this condition occurs, tappet noise may occur shortly after a turn, stop, or fast acceleration. This condition may also be detected by close observation of the oil pressure gauge.

d. Low oil level.

Low oil level permits insufficient oil and air to be pumped into the lubrication system. This can be detected by close observation of the oil pressure gauge for fluctuation.

e. Plugged oil float screen.

A plugged oil float screen is generally due to inadequate oil and/or filter change periods for the type of operation.

f. Oil pump relief valve stuck.

When this condition occurs, it usually permits pressure to be normal at higher speeds while falling below normal at low engine speeds or at idle. Normal oil pressure for a warm engine at idle is considered to be 12 psi or more at

500 rpm.

g. A major oil pressure drop below normal.

A major oil pressure drop is generally caused by excessive bearing clearance, etc., which permits excessive leakage of hot engine oil and reduces the pressure of oil delivered to the tappets below the minimum required for quiet and proper operation of the tappet.

h. Oil foaming.

This is a condition where a large quantity of air bubbles are trapped in the oil, producing a condition of foaming or sudsing (aeration).

Since air unlike oil, is compressible, tappet noise or loss of valve lift will result when the aerated oil enters the tappet.

i. Excessive oil supply.

When the oil level is too high in the oil pan, the crankshaft and connecting rods dip into the oil and churn it, causing an aerated condition.

j . Low oil supply.

This condition permits the reuse of a small quantity of oil which does not have sufficient

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL time to cool and rid itself of the normal air induced into the oil.

k. Air entering the oil pump.

This condition can be caused by the oil screen in the float sticking above the oil level, or a leak in the suction tube, loose oil pump cover, etc. In all cases, air will be drawn into the oil pump and induced into the oil.

1. Plug out of oil pump cover.

A plug that is loose or missing out of the oil pump cover will cause excessive by-passing and aeration of the oil.

m. Prolonged use of engine oil.

Where operating conditions are such that the majority of driving is slow or short and intermittent, not permitting the engine to warm up to operating temperature, it is possible for normal condensation to build up in the crankcase to a point where it will cause the oil to foam.

n. Water from the cooling system leaking into the engine oil.

Water from the cooling system leaking into engine oil will cause excessive oil foaming.

o. Glycol in the engine oil.

When glycol leaks into the engine lubrication system, it has a tendency to form a gummy substance which deposits on the engine parts. This substance will normally affect the operation of the hydraulic tappets, first by causing sticking, and then gradually causing the tappets to scuff and become increasingly noisy until they reach a point where the plungers will stick completely.

This is the only condition which may require the replacement of all 16 tappets. However, unless the condition is corrected, it will repeat itself.

96. ONE OR MORE TAPPETS NOISY

Possible Causes: a. Excessive dry lash.

The term of dry lash refers to the clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm when the tappet is on the heel of the cam lobe and the plunger is bottomed in the tappet body. The normal clearance is .060 to .210 inch, and any lash exceeding .210 inch could cause a tappet to

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL be noisy. A condition of excessive dry lash usually indicates wear.

To determine if proper dry lash is the problem, insert a % inch (.125) feeler between the rocker arm and the valve stem; then, start the engine. If the noise has disappeared it is quite possible it was caused by a worn rocker arm or push rod.

b. Broken valve spring.

This could be either the inner or outer valve spring. (FirePower engine.) c. Sticking rocker arm.

This could be the result of any condition that prevents free movement of the rocker arm on the rocker shaft.

d. Worn rocker arm.

This condition is usually due to lack of hardness of the rocker arm or push rod end, and can be detected by the dry lash test as described above.

e. Face of rocker arm not true.

When this condition is present, it will be noted that the rocker arm is making contact on the edge of the valve stem. This can cause a valve cocking condition and result in the valve stem to ride heavy or bind in the guide.

f. Push rods worn, bent, or interfering (in head).

A worn push rod can be identified by a worn spot on one end. This can be caused by insufficient lubrication. Check holes in arm and rocker shaft.

When installing a new rocker arm, be sure the lubricating oil holes are open.

Worn, bent, or interfering push rods can be detected by the dry lash test, as described above.

A bent push rod is generally caused by mishandling and can result in interference in the cylinder head or increased dry lash.

The push rod interference in the cylinder head can be caused by inadequate clearance in the push rod passages through the cylinder heads. If this condition is found, it is only necessary to relieve the ends of the hole at the top and bottom.

ENGINE—297 g. Tight tappet.

While rare, this condition occurs where the tappet or the tappet bore is of incorrect size, bell-mouthed or out-of-round, causing the tappet to stick in its bore. A condition of this nature is indicated by heavy wear or scuff marks on portions of the side of the tappet body. Unless the tappet bores in the cylinder block are cleaned up, the same condition will occur with a replacement tappet. To check bore, slide a new tappet in and out. If the tappet sticks, ream bore to next oversize and install new oversize tappet.

h. Stuck hydraulic tappet plungers.

This condition is where a tappet plunger is stuck in the tappet body and is unable to compensate for changes in the valve train clearance.

Extended engine operation at high speed with this condition existing, could cause valve break-

age. Three basic causes for this condition are:

Dirt or metal chips; glycol in the lubricating oil; and, the mismatching of parts in assembly after cleaning.

Varnish build-up around the top of the tappet above the operating range of the plunger is a normal condition, therefore, it should not be confused with a stuck tappet in which the plunger will normally be found stuck below the operating range.

i. Valve stem varnish.

Occasionally, this condition may occur where a heavy deposit of varnish has adhered to the valve stem and restricts the movement of the valve in the guide.

j . Faulty tappets.

This is caused by conditions that may be inherent in the individual tappets, such as bent valve washers, omitted valve washers, tight plunger caps, improperly fitted retainer, bad flat valve or valve seat, a plugged or missing oil hole in the tappet body or plunger, or a loose plunger to body fit that causes a fast leakdown under spring pressure. (The latter usually shows up at idle when the oil is hot.)

Since the hydraulic tappet is not reparable, only those determined to be faulty should be replaced. The replacement of any tappets other than the individual ones causing the condition, would serve no purpose.

298—ENGINE k. Worn valve guide.

Tappet noise can also be caused by a guide that is worn .015 inch or more, or by a valve that is bent to a point where it will actually hang up in the guide. Valves can be bent in the field when attempting to compress a valve spring on an engine with the piston up or near TDC, or by failing to use the proper head holding fixtures, Tool C-3209, when the heads have been removed for repairs.

1. Tappet oil feed hole plugged or restricted.

In many cases where a tappet has been removed for being noisy, it has been found that the oil feed hole in the tappet or the cylinder block was restricted or plugged. This condition is due to varnish, sludge, dirt, or other foreign materials. Again this condition can be attributed to infrequent filter element or oil change. Before installing any tappet, it is a good policy to run a drill rod or drill into the feed hole to make sure it is open. Be sure no burr is left in the tappet bore after opening with rod.

m. Worn tappet or camshaft lobe.

There have been instances when some condition causes scoring to start between the cam lobe and the face of the tappet, in the same manner as any other bearing surface. When this condition occurs, it can result in damage not only to the face of the tappet, but to the camshaft lobe as well. It will produce tappet noise and a lack of engine performance.

This condition can be determined by measuring the lift of the valve. The lift can be measured by bottoming the tappet in the same way as checking for valve timing, by inserting a shim of sufficient size to take up the dry lash. The lift of the valve can then be measured with a dial indicator and compared with other valves shimmed in the same manner. The normal valve lift should be approximately .360 inch. Since wear of up to .030 inch is permissible, the

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL mileage of the engine, as well as the comparison check with other cylinders, should be taken into consideration before a decision is reached to replace the camshaft. When tappets and/or camshaft replacement is necessary due to excessive wear, a very thorough cleaning of the lubricating system should be performed, or else the particles of worn metal that have deposited out of the oil will cause a reoccurrence of the same trouble.

97. INTERMITTENT TAPPET NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Aerated or foaming oil.

This is a condition where a large quantity of air bubbles are trapped in the oil, producing a condition of foaming or sudsing (aeration).

Since air, unlike oil, is compressible, tappet noise or loss of valve lift will result when the aerated oil enters the tappet.

b. Defective tappets.

Although these defects cannot be corrected in the field, and therefore require replacement of the individual tappet, the following is presented to point out possible defects: c. Extremely wide seat on the lapped seat of the tappet plunger.

d. Insufficient check valve travel to compensate for various speeds.

e. Out-of-round tappet plunger.

Tappet Cleaning

When cleaning tappets (if needed) at the time of engine overhaul or valve grind, it should be done in accordance with the procedure described in this section. Extreme precautions must be taken to be sure that all work be done in clean surroundings and using clean materials. If the cleanliness precautions are not observed, it is more than likely the effort will be wasted and noisy or stuck tappets can be expected.

Section

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

NUMBER DATE

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

SUBJECT CHANGES

300—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Item

FUEL PUMP

Make

Model

Type

Driven By

Pump Pressure

(Pounds)

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70

Auto Lite

FB-4006

Diaphragm With

Dual Air Domes

Camshaft

4i/

to 6%

Auto Lite

FB-4006

Diaphragm With

Dual Air Domes

Camshaft

4% to 6y

C-300

Auto Lite

FB-4006

Diaphragm With

Dual Air Domes

Camshaft

to 6y

CARBURETOR

Make

Type

Nominal Size (SAE)

Ball and Ball

Dual Throat Downdraf t iy

inches

Carter

4 Barrel Downdraft

1%" 4 bore 4 bolt

Carter

4 Barrel Downdraft

1%" 4 bore 4 bolt

MODEL

Standard Trans. . . .

Power Flite

BBD-2180S + SA + SB

BBD-2180S + SA + SB WCFB-2126S WCFB-2317S

THROTTLE BORE

Primary

Secondary

MAIN VENTURI

Primary

Secondary

LOW SPEED JETS

Primary

Secondary l

/i6 inch

inch

.75 MM-S l

inch l

/ie inch lVie inch

IKe inch

No. 69 drill

No. 69 drill l

/ie inch

1%6 inch

IKe inch iy

inch

No. 69 drill

MAIN METERING

JETS

Primary

Secondary

360 cc No. 42 drill

.057 inch drill

No. 42 drill

.057 inch drill

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—301

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—Cont'd

ITEM C-67 C-68, C-69, C-70

ADJUSTMENTS

Idle Mixture (Both

Screws)

Idle Speed

Accelerator Pump . .

Pump Capacity

Float Setting (Casting to Top of Floats)

Primary

Secondary

Float Travel

Unloader

Fast Idle

Choke Rod

Adjustment

Control

Choke Setting

One Full Turn Open

475 to 500 rpm

2 7

/32" ± %

inch

% inch

.022 to .026" Wire Gauge

Integral Automatic

Index Mark

One Full Turn Open

500 rpm

Long Stroke

19 cc/10 Strokes

Ys inch

/ie inch

±

Ke"

/ie inch

.018 inch

.020 inch

Integral Automatic

Index Mark

(Std Setting)

C-300

One Full Turn Open

600 to 650 rpm

Long Stroke

19 cc

%e inch

.010 inch

Integral Automatic

Index Mark

(Std Setting)

Tool Number

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED FOR

SERViaNG FUEL PUMP AND CARBURETOR

FUEL PUMP

Tool Name

T-109-43 Rivet Extractor

T-C-483 Gauge

CARBURETOR

Tool Number Tool Name

C-3225 Stand—Carburetor Repair

C-3400 Stand—Carburetor Repair

T-109-28 Gauge—Choke Unloader O%

in.)

T-109-29 ' Gauge—Wire (.020 in.) (Choke Rod Adjustment)

T-109-41 Bending Tool—Tang

T-109-44 Gauge—Wire (.018 in.) (Fast Idle)

T-109-58 Screwdriver Bit—(Jet Removing)

T-109-97 Bending Tool—(Bowl Vent Cap)

T-109-166 Gauge—Unloader 0 %

in.)

T-109-197 Gauge—Vent Cap Setting (y

in.)

T-109-200 Gauge—(.010 in. Wire) (Primary Throttle)

T-109-220 Level—Secondary Float

T-109-213 Bending Tool—(Pump Rod)

T-109-222 Gauge—Float Level (Secondary) (%

in.)

T-109-232 Gauge—Float Level (Primary) (% in.)

T-109-239 Gauge—Float

T-109-242 Gauge—Velocity Valve (

in.)

302—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ROCKER ARM HOUSING

ROCKER ARM TO

VALVE HOUSING

SCREW (7)

ROCKER ARM

AND SPRING

ASSEMBLY

ROCKER ARM

PIVOT PIN

DIAPHRAGM, PULL ROD

AND SPRING

VALVE RETAINER SCREW

VALVE RETAINER

INLET VALVE

OUTLET VALVE

VALVE GASKET

VALVE HOUSING

VALVE TO ROCKER ARM

HOUSING SCREW (1)

INLET PORT

OUTLET PORT

Fig. 1—Fuel Pump (Exploded View)

5 2 x 2 6 6 A

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—303

Section VIII

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

FUEL PUMP

(All Models)

1. DESCRIPTION

The fuel pump, as shown in Figure 1, is driven by an eccentric on the camshaft, which actuates the rocker arm. This action lifts the pull rod and diaphragm assembly upwards against the main spring, thus creating a vacuum in the valve housing, which opens the inlet valve and fuel is drawn into the valve housing chamber from the fuel tank.

On the return stroke of the rocker arm, the main spring pressure forces the diaphragm to the down position, which expels the fuel in the valve chamber through the outlet valve, to the carburetor.

When the carburetor float chamber is filled with fuel, the float in the carburetor shuts off the needle valve, creating pressure in the fuel pump chamber. This pressure holds the fuel pump diaphragm upward against spring pressure until the carburetor requires more fuel.

When the engine consumes the fuel and the float chamber in the carburetor becomes empty, the needle valve will again open to admit fuel into the float chamber, release pump pressure and start the pumping cycle again.

2. TESTING FUEL PUMP (ON CAR)

If the fuel pump fails to pump fuel to the carburetor, the following checks should be made to determine the cause of the failure before removing the fuel pump from the car.

a. Fuel lines

Make certain that the fuel lines are not blocked and that the fittings are tight. Check the flexible hoses for cracks or deterioration which would cause leakage or retard the flow of fuel to the fuel pump.

b. Fuel Pump Breather Hole

Check for gasoline or oil leakage at the fuel pump breather hole. A gasoline leak at this point indicates a defective diaphragm. An oil leak at this point indicates the presence of a deteriorated or damaged oil seal on the diaphragm pull rod. In either case, the diaphragm assembly should be replaced.

c. Fuel Pump Pressure

If leakage is not apparent at the fuel pump breather hole, test fuel pump pressure by inserting "T" fitting into the fuel line at the carburetor. Connect pressure gauge, Tool C-483, to the

"T" fitting and check fuel pump pressure while rotating the engine.

Fuel pump pressure should be from 41/2 to 614 pounds. This pressure should remain constant, or return to zero very, very slowly when the engine is stopped. An instant drop to zero on the testing gauge indicates that the outlet valve is leaking. Inlet and outlet valves are not serviceable. If necessary, replace the complete valve housing assembly.

If the Pressure Is Too Low—A weak diaphragm main spring, or improper assembly of the diaphragm, may be the cause.

If the Pressure Is Too High—The diaphragm spring may be too strong. Check the main spring for correct tension and replace the diaphragm assembly if necessary.

d. Inlet Valves

To test the inlet valves for proper functioning, disconnect the fuel line to the fuel pump and start the engine, or turn the engine with the starting motor. Place finger over the inlet fitting of the fuel pump while the engine is turning.

There should be a noticeable suction—not alter-

304—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS nated by blow-back—at this point. If blow-back is present, one or both inlet valves are not seating properly. The inlet and outlet valves are not serviceable. If necessary, replace the complete valve housing assembly.

e. Additional Checks

Check for leakage at the fuel pump diaphragm

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL which might be caused by loose mounting screws.

Check fuel pump mounting bolts to insure that no oil leakage exists around the mounting flange.

If the fuel pump fails to operate satisfactorily, disconnect the fuel pump inlet and outlet lines and remove the fuel pump assembly from the engine. Service as outlined in Paragraph 3.

SERVICING PROCEDURES

3. DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF

FUEL PUMP a. Disassembly

To disassemble fuel pump, refer to Figure 1, and proceed as follows:

NOTE

Before disassembly, mark housings in such manner that the mark "Inlet" ivill be facing inlet fuel line when reassembled. This is important!

(1) Remove the pivot pin retainer by spinning out with either a No. 1 drill or any proper size Easy Out. Remove pivot pin.

(2) Remove screws that hold valve housing and rocker arm housing together. Separate housings.

(3) Remove diaphragm assembly and main spring.

(4) Remove screw holding valve retainer in position.

(5) Remove inlet valve and strainer, outlet valve and gasket from valve housing.

NOTE

The component parts of the inlet and outlet valves are not available for service and should be serviced as an assembly.

CAUTION

Never use shellac or any other adhesive on the diaphragm.

b. Assembly

When assembling rocker arm housing and diaphragm to valve housing, insert screws and lockwashers, but do not tighten. Push rocker arm to its full travel. Hold in this position and tighten screws securely. (This will prevent the tearing of the diaphragm when pump is operated and permit the pump rocker arm to travel its full stroke.)

NOTE

When reassembling pump, be sure and insert the inlet valve and strainer in the port of the inlet side of pump.

4. PERFORMANCE AND ECONOMY TESTS

When a car is being tested for performance or economy, a good, hard-surfaced road should be used whenever possible. In addition to the condition of the road, other factors that may affect the accuracy of the test results are: wind resistance, the grade of the road, tire pressure, vehicle load, etc. Test results will be more accurate if the test is made in one direction and then in the opposite direction in order to obtain a balance of varying conditions, such as wind and road resistance and grades. The average of the two tests made in this manner is far more accurate than the result of a one-way check.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—305

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

CONDITIONS-POSSIBLE CAUSES

5. FUEL PUMP LEAKS—FUEL

Possible Causes: a. Loose housing screws.

b. Worn, ruptured or torn diaphragm.

c. Loose diaphragm mounting plates.

d. Loose inlet or outlet line fittings.

6. FUEL PUMP LEAKS—OIL

Possible Causes: a. Cracked or deteriorated pull rod oil seal.

b. Loose rocker arm pivot pin.

c. Loose pump mounting bolts.

d. Defective pump to block gasket.

7. INSUFFICIENT FUEL DELIVERY

Possible Causes: a. Vent in tank filler neck restricted. (This will also cause collapsed fuel tank.) b. Leaks in fuel line or fittings.

c. Dirt or restriction in fuel tank.

d. Worn, ruptured, or torn diaphragm.

e. Frozen gas lines.

f. Improperly seating valves.

g. Vapor lock.

h. Weak main spring.

i. Incorrect fuel pump.

8. FUEL PUMP NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Loose mounting bolts.

b. Scored or worn rocker arm.

c. Weak or broken rocker arm spring.

BOWL VENT TUBE

AIR HORN

INTEGRAL

AUTOMATIC

CHOKE

ACCELERATOR PUMP

OPERATING ROD

M A I N BODY

FAST IDLE LINK

SPRING CLIP

CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD

THROTTLE SHAFT LEVER

THROTTLE BODY

THROTTLE LEVER

REPAIR STAND

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

Fig. 1—Carburetor Assembly (BBD-2180S)

55x200

306—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

MODEL IDENTIFICATION TAG DASHPOT UNIT

FUEL INLET NEEDLE VALVE

AND SEAT ASSEMBLY

AIR HORN

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREW

INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

55x75

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

Fig. 2—Carburetor Assembly (BBD-2162S)

THROTTLE BODY

55x76

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—307

CARBURETOR

1. DESCRIPTION

The Ball and Ball BBD Series carburetor is of the dual throat, down-draft type with each throat having its own idle system, main metering system, and throttle valve. The idle system and main metering systems are supplemented by the float system, the accelerating system and the power system.

There are two models of the Ball and Ball carburetors used, depending on the type of transmission with which the car is equipped. The same basic design applies to these carburetors regardless of adaptions. Refer to "Specifications" for detailed information.

The carburetors are classified by transmission application as follows:

(1) Model BBD 2180S, SA and SB is used on

C-67 (Standard) equipped with a standard three speed transmission. (See Fig. 1.)

(2) Model BBD 2162S, SA and SB is used on

C-67 (Deluxe) equipped with a PowerFlite transmission. This carburetor is equipped with a mechanical dashpot. (See Fig. 2.)

The service procedures for the disassembly, overhaul, cleaning and assembly of these carburetors are the same, with the exception of the dashpot.

Incorporated in the carburetor is an automatic integral choke of the heated air type, that is cast with the air horn and connected to the choke and throttle shafts through a series of rods and levers. The fast idle mechanism is incorporated in the choke housing. The operation of the five basic systems, as well as the operation of the dashpot and the automatic integral choke is described briefly in the following paragraphs.

2. THE FLOAT SYSTEM

The function of the float system is to maintain a constant level of fuel in the float chamber at all times and under all conditions of operation.

Fuel enters the carburetor at the fuel inlet and follows through the inlet needle valve and seat into the float chamber, where the fuel is maintained at a determined level by the float. The float chamber is vented through an internal vent tube which connects the float chamber to the air inlet of the carburetor.

Since the float chamber and the air inlet are inter-connected, the same pressure is maintained in the float chamber as in the air horn, therefore, any accumulation of dirt in the air cleaner, causing restrictions to the air flow, will not upset the mixture ratio.

3. THE IDLE SYSTEM

During engine idle or part-throttle operation, fuel is supplied to the engine through the idle system. Fuel enters through the main metering jets and is metered at the idle orifice tubes where it mixes with air drawn through the idle air bleed. The idle restriction breaks up the fuel as it mixes with air drawn through the idle air bleed. This provides an air-fuel mixture at the idle port and the idle adjusting screw port. It is important that the idle air bleed, idle orifice tubes, idle restriction, idle passages, idle ports, and idle mixture adjusting screws be kept clean.

Any clogging will result in poor idle or partthrottle operation.

4. HIGH-SPEED SYSTEM

During part- or full-throttle operation, fuel is supplied to the engine through the high-speed system. When the engine is under a heavy load, sudden acceleration or operated at wide open throttle, the step-up system supplies additional fuel. Fuel flow through the passage in the main metering jet is controlled by the movement of the step-up rods which are moved by a spring and a vacuum controlled piston. A vacuum passage to the intake manifold is provided for by a drilled passage in the main and throttle bodies and a slotted flange gasket.

308—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SCREW

» " T V

BODY ( N O T SERVICED)

GASKET

SCREW

Fig. 3—Carburetor Assembly (Disassembled View)

SHAFT

55 x 598

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Under normal driving conditions, the manifold vacuum exerts a strong pull on the step-up piston. This holds the piston down, keeping the stepup rods in the fuel passage of the main metering jets. Fuel then flows around the rods, through the jets, to the discharge nozzles.

When manifold vacuum falls off, due to heavy load, sudden acceleration, or at wide-open throttle, the spring moves the piston up, lifting the step-up rods out of the main metering jets. Additional fuel is then supplied to the engine.

Air is drawn through the high-speed air bleed and mixes with the fuel surrounding the main vent tubes. The mixture is then drawn from the discharge nozzles. It is very important that the vent tubes be clean.

5. ACCELERATOR PUMP SYSTEM

The accelerator pump system momentarily supplies an extra charge of fuel to the engine when the throttle is opened. The amount of fuel added is directly proportional to the amaunt the accelerator pedal is depressed. The pump plunger spring forces the plunger down and the fuel is discharged past the discharge check ball through the discharge ports and into the venturi air stream. The inlet passage is closed by the inlet check ball as this occurs.

When the accelerator pedal returns, the pump plunger is pulled up, drawing a new charge of fuel past the inlet check ball. The discharge check ball is closed, preventing any air from bleeding into the passage when the pump plunger is pulled up.

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—309

6. AUTOMATIC INTEGRAL CHOKE

The automatic integral choke used in this series of carburetors is of the mechanical, heated-air type. The operation is a combination of linkage connecting the throttle shaft to the offset choke valve and thermostatic coil spring. A tube from the thermostat cover to the exhaust manifold

"stove" provides heated air to govern the tension of the thermostatic coil spring. The fast idle mechanism is incorporated in the choke housing and provides the correct throttle opening to prevent the engine from stalling during the warm up period.

7. THE DASHPOT CONTROL

The function of the dashpot control is to retard the closing action of the throttle valves on

PowerFlite Transmission equipped cars, thus preventing the stalling of the engine upon sudden release of the accelerator pedal. By retarding the closing of the throttle valves, sufficient time is allowed to clear the induction chamber of the fuel charge before the throttle returns to the slow idle position.

8. CARBURETOR MODEL IDENTIFICATION

All BBD carburetors have the model code number and date stamped on a metal tag, attached to the air horn. Do not destroy or remove tag from the carburetor as this is the only lead to the model identification. Before attempting to repair or overhaul a carburetor, refer to the model code number and secure a repair kit for the number indicated on the metal tag.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

9. REMOVAL OF CARBURETOR (from Engine)

(1) Remove the air cleaner and gasket.

(2) Disconnect the fuel line, choke heat tube, and vacuum spark advance tube.

(3) Disconnect the throttle linkage, then remove carburetor from intake manifold and discard the gasket. The dashpot can be serviced without removing the carburetor from the engine.

10. SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

The servicing of the carburetor should only be done by an experienced carburetor mechanic and with the proper tools.

Dirt, dust, water, and gummy deposits are

310—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

Often the carburetor is blamed for a great variety of trouble which is classed as "Poor Car

Performance/' Therefore, be definitely sure the trouble is not located elsewhere before disassembling the carburetor.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job: The carburetor must be disassembled, all parts carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent, and inspected for damage or wear. Use air pressure only, to clear the various orifices and channels.

Replace questionable parts with NEW ones.

When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is at times rather difficult to be sure they are satisfactory for further service. It is, therefore, recommended that in such cases, NEW parts be installed.

11. DISASSEMBLY OF CARBURETOR

To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figure 3, (depending on model of carburetor), and proceed as follows:

Place the carburetor assembly on repair stand

Tool C-3225. (This tool is used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)

HOLE NEAREST ROCKER A R M PIVOT

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ACCELERATOR

PUMP

PLUNGER

FUEL NEEDLE

VALVE A N D

SEAT

HORN

ATTACHING

SCREWS

Fig. 5—Removing or Installing Air Horn

55x204

12. DISASSEMBLY OF MAIN BODY

(1) Remove the hairpin clips that retain the accelerator pump operating rod, as shown in Figure 4.

(2) Remove the dashpot (if so equipped).

(3) Remove the spring clip that holds the choke connector rod to the fast idle link.

(4) Disengage the rod from the link and throttle shaft lever.

(5) Remove the air horn and integral automatic choke as an assembly, as shown in Figure 5, and discard the gasket.

FLOAT

CHOKE

CONNECTOR

ROD

SPRING

CLIP

TOP

OUTSIDE

HOLE I N

THROTTLE LEVER

55x203

Fig. 4—Removal or Installing Accelerator

Pump Rod

FLOAT FULCRUM

PIN RETAINER

GASKET

NEEDLE VALVE A N D

SEAT ASSEMBLY

Fig. 6—Removing or Installing Float

55x205

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

MAIN METERING

JETS (2)

STEP-UP PISTON RODS (2)

" " f j ^ * — S T E P - U P PISTON RETAINING SCREW

55x206

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Step-Up

Piston and Rods

(6) Remove the fuel inlet needle valve and seat, float and fulcrum pin, step-up piston, and rods from the main body. (See Figs. 6 and 7.)

(7) Remove the step-up piston spring and gasket from the bottom of the piston well.

(8) Remove the main metering jets, gaskets, and venturi cluster and cluster cover (with idle and main vent tubes) and discard the gasket.

(9) Invert the carburetor and drop out the pump discharge check ball. (The metering of fuel from the accelerator pump is controlled by two drilled holes in the venturi cluster, see

Fig. 8). Do not remove the idle orifice or

main vent tubes from the cluster. They can

FUEL METERING

HOLES

GASKET

VENTURI CLUSTER

IDLE AND MAIN

VENT TUBES

STEP-UP

PISTON

SPRING

DISCHARGE

CLUSTER

RETAINING

SCREWS

MAIN METERING

JETS A N D GASKET

STEP-UP PISTON

GASKET

55x207

Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Venturi Cluster

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—311 easily be cleaned, using a suitable solvent and dried with compressed air. The discharge cluster is serviced only as an assembly.

a. Disassembly of Throttle Body

Remove the idle adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body, then invert carburetor and remove the screws that attach the throttle body to the main body. Separate main and throttle bodies and discard the gasket.

b. Disassembly of Air Horn

(1) Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from the rocker arm by pushing up on the bottom of plunger and sliding it off rocker arm hook. If the pump plunger leather is hard, worn, or cracked, a new accelerator pump plunger should be installed.

(2) Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

(3) Remove the screws that attach thermostatic coil housing to the air horn. Remove the bakelite housing and coil spring, gasket, and baffle plate.

(4) Slide out the unloader arm and fast idle link.

(5) Remove the screws that hold the choke valve to the choke shaft. The screws are staked to prevent loosening and extreme care is necessary to avoid breaking in the shaft.

(6) Turn the choke shaft counter-clockwise

FAST IDLE CAM AND SPRING

CHOKE

PISTON

-CHOKE VALVE

SCREWS

54x16

Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Choke Shaft and Piston

312—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS until the choke piston clears the top of its cylinder.

(7) Withdraw the choke piston, link, and shaft out of the air horn, as shown in Figure 9.

(8) Disengage the fast idle cam and spring from the choke shaft by lifting the ends of the spring over the short lever, as shown in

Figure 10; then, slide off the choke shaft.

(9) The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units, the air horn, main body and throttle body, and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

NOTE

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves unless tvear or damage necessitates installation of new parts. To install new valves or throttle shaft, refer to Inspection and

Reassembly, Paragraph 1U.

13. CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable.

However, there are other commercial solvents which may be used with satisfactory results. If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be "HOT."

After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains.

CHOKE SHAFT

CHOKE PISTON

ENDS OF SPRING

OVER SHORT LEVER

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

A soft brush should be used while the parts are soaking in the solvent to remove gum and carbon deposits. After cleaning, all parts should be rinsed in clean solvent and then all passages blown out with compressed air. Do not immerse the bakelite choke housing in the solvent because of possible damage.

NOTE

Never clean jets with a tvire, drill, or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.

14. INSPECTION AND ASSEMBLY

Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme, it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced, rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.

During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control ports to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly (See Fig. 11). If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely affect normal car operation between speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour.

If it has been decided that a new shaft is to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions :

Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced in the same bore from which it was removed. Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the throttle shaft, then slide the valves out of

IDLE TRANSFER PORTS

SPARK ADVANCE

CONTROL PORT

FAST IDLE CAM

AND SPRING

PISTON LINK

CHOKE SHAFT LEVER

5 4 x 1 7

Fig. 10—Choke Shaft, Piston, Sleeve and Spring

THROTTLE VALVES 55x208

Fig. 11—Ports in Rdation to Throttle Valves

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—313

IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

BACKED OFF

55x209

Fig. 12—Installing Throttle Valves bore in throttle body. These screws are staked on the opposite side to prevent loosening. Using a file, remove upset metal and then remove screws.

This will prevent screws from breaking in the throttle shaft.

Slide the throttle shaft out of the throttle body. Position the new shaft in body and back out the idle speed adjusting screw. (This will allow the valves to be fully seated for the installation operation.)

The "C" in a circle stamped on the valves must be toward the idle port and visible from the bottom of the throttle body when the valves are installed. Slide the valves into their respective bores, and insert NEW screws, but do not tighten. Hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 12. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.)

Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat fully in the bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten screws securely and stake by squeezing the pliers. Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, new idle mixture adjusting screws should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.) their seats, then back off one full turn for approximate adjustment.

16. ASSEMBLING THE AUTOMATIC CHOKE

To function properly, it is important that all choke parts be clean and move freely when installed. It is possible, under extremely dusty conditions, that fine particles of dirt may be found deposited on the various choke parts. A heavy, black, hard carbon deposit on the choke parts will indicate the possibility of a leak in the heat tube. Check tube and replace if necessary.

Before assembling the automatic choke, be sure all parts are clean and free from any trace of grit or dirt. Clean all choke parts, using a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Examine all choke parts for wear or damage.

Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new in order to insure proper choke operation.

The thermostatic coil spring, heat retainer plate, and the bakelite choke housing are serviced as an assembly only. If the housing is cracked or broken, install a complete new assembly. The indicator mark cut on the rim of the housing is only correct for the one thermostatic coil spring originally installed. Do not attempt to separate the thermostatic coil spring from the heat retainer plate.

(1) To remove the thermostatic coil and heat retainer plate from the choke housing, hit the choke housing sharply against the palm of the hand (coil side down).

,' w^, » i '

. * ' LOCATING NOTCH AND MATING

THERMOSTATIC COIL

A N D HEAT

RETAINER PLATE

15. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW ADJUSTMENT

DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws lightly against Fig. 13—Installing Heat Retainer Plate

5 4 x 4 8 2

314—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

(2) Clean any dirt, dust, or other foreign material that may be present, from the retainer plate and out of the choke housing.

(3) When reassembling, match the notch in the plate with the lug in the housing, as shown in Figure 13.

(4) Install the plate and press down until seated in choke housing. Be sure the retaining spring in the plate is clear of the notch.

(5) Slide the fast idle cam and spring over the choke shaft and down against the choke lever.

(6) Slide the ends of the spring over the short tang on the lever.

(7) Slide the choke shaft and piston into the air horn. (Be sure that the groove around the choke piston is perfectly clean.)

(8) Turn the lever counter-clockwise until the choke piston clears the choke cylinder.

(9) At the same time, guide the fast idle cam and spring over the shoulder of the shaft opening in the air horn.

(10) Push in slightly on the end of choke shaft to seat the fast idle cam; then the piston will drop into its cylinder.

(11) Slide the choke valve into position and start new screws. Holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with screwdriver to center and locate the valve.

Tighten screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers.

(12) Hold the air horn in an upright position and close the choke valve. The valve should open freely of its own weight. Do not lubricate any of the choke operating parts.

(13) Slide the fast idle link up through the slot in the air horn with the hook portion toward the choke piston.

(14) Hold the fast idle link in the uppermost position, then install the unloader arm and trip lever.

(15) Allow the fast idle link to drop slightly and engage the unloader arm.

(16) Install baffle plate, gasket, coil spring housing, and housing retaining ring.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PRESS DOWN TO HOLD

DISCHARGE CHECK

BALL ON ITS SEAT

PRESS DOWN

ACCELERATOR

PUMP SHAFT

NO FUEL TO

BE EMITTED

FROM THE

PUMP INLET

NO FUEL TO BE

EMITTED FROM

PUMP DISCHARGE

PASSAGE

55x210

Fig. 14—Accelerator Pump Test

17. ASSEMBLING THE MAIN BODY

Place the discharge check ball on its seat, and make the accelerator pump test as follows:

(1) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Flare back the leather several times, then slide into the pump well.

(2) Pour clean gasoline into the float chamber

(approximately i/

inch deep).

(3) Raise the pump plunger and press lightly on plunger shaft, forcing the plunger down into the well. Do this several times until all air is removed from the discharge passage.

(4) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly on its seat, as shown in Figure 14.

DISCHARGE

CHECK BALL

DISCHARGE

PASSAGE

55x211

Fig. 15—Installing Accelerator Pump Discharge

Check Ball

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(5) Raise the pump plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the accelerator pump intake or discharge passage. If any fuel does emit it is an indication of dirt or a damaged check ball.

(6) Remove the ball, reclean the passage, and, if necessary, install a new check ball.

(7) Retest as described above. Remove the plunger and pour out the gasoline after test.

(8) Reinstall the venturi cluster and cluster cover, gaskets, and the idle bleed screws.

Tighten screws securely.

(9) Install the main metering jets and new gaskets, step-up piston gasket, spring and piston, and rods. Install retaining screw.

(10) Before installing step-up piston, be sure that the step-up rods are straight and true.

The rods must hang true and be able to move freely each side of their vertical position.

(11) Be sure the step-up piston slides freely in its cylinder. A step-up piston stuck in the

UP position will cause a rich mixture at part-throttle. A piston stuck in the DOWN position will cause a lean mixture and poor acceleration at wide open throttle. Again, be sure that the piston slides freely in its cylinder.

(12) Place a new gasket on the throttle body, then, lower the main body down on throttle body.

TOP OF FLOATS

JUST TOUCHING

GAUGE

FLOAT LIP HELD

AGAINST

NEEDLE VALVE

Fig. 16—Checking Float Height

55x212

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—315

(13) Invert the assembly and install retaining screws; snug down but do not tighten.

(14) Install the float, fulcrum pins, retainer, fuel inlet needle valve, seat, and new gasket. If the needle valve is ridged, grooved, or shows signs of wear, a new needle valve, seat and gasket should be installed.

18. CHECKING FLOAT HEIGHT

(1) When checking the float height, be sure the air horn gasket is removed.

(2) Place Float Gauge Tool T-109-239 in position over floats, as shown in Figure 16. Both floats should just touch the gauge when the float lip is held firmly against inlet needle.

(3) To adjust, bend the float lip to raise or lower the floats until correct setting has been obtained. If one float is lower than the other, equalize by bending the float arm.

(4) If Tool T-109-239 is not available, use a steel scale and measure the distance from the crown of the float (in the center) to the top of the fuel bowl. This measurement should be %

(5) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the j a r of gasoline, slide spring and cup washer over plunger shaft, then install in position in air horn.

(6) Using a new gasket, place air horn on main body and install screws. (Be sure the pump leather enters the pump well evenly.)

(7) Install the accelerator pump operating rod, choke connector rod, and dashpot (if so equipped).

(8) Tighten all attaching screws securely (including the two that attach throttle body to the main body).

19. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

It is very important that the following adjustments be made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed: Fast Idle, Unloader, Ac- celerator Pump, Dashpot (if so equipped).

20. FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

To make the fast idle adjustment, back out the idle speed adjusting screw so that the throttle

316—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

I-THROTTLE VALVES HELD CLOSED

.002 TO .026 WIRE GAUGE

ON SIDE OPPOSITE PORTS

CHOKE CONNECTOR

ROD- BEND ROD

FOR CORRECT

ADJUSTMENT

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

55x213 CHOKE VALVE HELD CLOSED

Fig. 17—Fast Idle Adjustment valves can close. Remove the thermostatic coil spring housing, gasket, and baffle plate. Open the throttle valves partially and hold the choke valve in the fully closed position. Close the throttle valves. This will allow the fast idle cam to revolve to the fast idle position. Invert the carburetor.

It should be possible to insert a .022 to .026 inch wire gauge between the throttle valves and bore of the throttle body (side opposite ports), as shown in Figure 17. If the opening is not correct, bend the lower end of the choke connector rod, using Tool T-109-213, until the correct clearance has been obtained.

21. UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT

To make the unloader adjustment, hold the choke valve lightly closed with a finger and then open

UNLOADER GAUGE

CHOKE VALVE

LIGHTLY

HE1D CLOSED

5 2 x 4 2

Fig. 19—Bending Choke Trip Lever Arm the throttle valves to wide open position. The choke valve should open sufficiently to allow a

inch gauge to be inserted between the choke valve and the inside bore of the air horn, as shown in Figure 18. To adjust, bend the unloader arm lever, as shown in Figure 19, until the desired unloader action has been obtained.

Reinstall the choke baffle plate, gasket, and choke housing. Install retaining ring and screws and tighten securely.

22. ACCELERATOR PUMP ADJUSTMENT

With the throttle valves fully closed (idle speed adjusting screw backed out), the distance from the top of the plunger rod to the top of the air horn should be 1 inch for Carburetor, BBD 2162S

TOP OF

PLUNGER ROD

THROTTLE

VALVES IN /

WIDE OPEN

POSITION

Fig. 18—Choke Unloader Adjustment

55x214

IDLE

SPEED

ADJUSTING

SCREW

BACKED

OUT JHROTTLE VALVES

FULLY CLOSED

Fig. 20—Checking Accelerator Pump

55x215

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ACCELERATOR PUMP ROD

55x216

Fig. 21—Bending Pump Rod for Correct

Pump Setting and 2180S and

inch for BBD 2162SA and

SB and 2180SA and SB±:%4 inch, when measured with a scale, as shown in Figure 20. The accelerator pump rod should be located in the hole nearest the rocker arm pivot and the lower end in the outside hole in the series of three in the throttle shaft lever.

To adjust, bend the pump rod, using Tool

T-109-213, as shown in Figure 21, until the correct pump setting has been obtained.

23. DASHPOT ADJUSTMENT

The maximum retarding action is obtained by adjusting the dashpot mounting stud. To assure full dashpot plunger travel, loosen the stud lock nut and then turn the dashpot out, or in, until the plunger can be depressed %

inch (under travel) after the throttle valves are in fully closed position. After adjustment has been made, tighten lock nut securely. The dashpot is serviced only as an assembly.

24. ENGINE IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT

Adjust the engine idle speed from 475 to 500 rpm using an electric tachometer with the engine at normal operating temperature.

25. ADJUSTING THE CARBURETOR (On the Engine)

NOTE

No amount of carburetor adjustment will give a smooth engine idle unless the following are known to be in good condition and/or adjusted correctly.

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—317

Spark plugs, distributor points, good high tension terminal connections, no leaks in high tension leads, engine ignition timing, valves and valve timing, and manifold heat control valve.

If not made during reassembly of the carburetor, make the preliminary setting of the idle mixture adjusting screws by turning IN (clockwise) until seated, and then backing out one full turn. To prevent damage to the needles and seats, use finger pressure only to make this adjustment.

Start engine and run until its normal operating temperature has been reached. Attach an electric tachometer and adjust the idle speed to from

475 to 500 rpm. (This is free idle with the shift lever in neutral position.) Make the idle mixture adjustment as follows:

Try to turn each adjusting needle the same amount. There is very little interconnection between the two branches of the intake manifold.

The cylinders on each branch will, therefore, react to changes in the idle mixture as much as if we had two four-cylinder engines. It is assumed that the idle mixture delivered by each barrel of the carburetor will be approximately the same if each idle adjusting needle is opened the same amount. The final fine adjustment may vary slightly from this setting, but it is best to start with the two needles in the same physical locations.

With the engine warmed up, the idle speed set from 475 to 500 rpm,, and both idle mixture needles set at one turn open, observe the roughness of the engine and the absence or presence of fluffs at the tail pipe (or pipes). Turn both idle mixture needles clockwise (leaner) % turn.

If the rpm increases slightly, the engine runs smoother, and there are fewer fluffs in the exhaust, the leaner adjustment is in the right direction.

Try turning both needles clockwise another

Ys turn or a total of *4 turn from the initial trial setting. This setting may further improve the idle or make it worse. If with this setting the idle was improved, reset the idle speed from 475 to 500 rpm and then try individual adjustments of each needle % turn clockwise (leaner) and counter-clockwise (richer) to find the exact best adjustment for each needle.

318—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

If the % turn (leaner) clockwise adjustment of both needles produced a drop in engine rpm, rougher operation, and more fluffs at the tail pipe (or pipes) try adjusting both needles % turn counter-clockwise (richer) from the initial setting. Repeat the procedure as described above.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The best idle operation will normally be found with the idle mixture needles set somewhere between % and 1% turns open. The final best setting should result in both needles being open the same number of turns, plus or minus

/% turn.

CARBURETOR (Model WCFB-2126S)

1. DESCRIPTION

The Chrysler FirePower V-8 engines are equipped with the new carburetor Model WCFB-

2126S as shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3.

The Carter Model WCFB Carburetor is basically two dual carburetors contained in one unit.

The section containing the metering rods, accelerating pump, and choke is termed the primary side of the carburetor; the other section, the secondary side. The primary side of the carburetor houses a low-speed system, a high speed system, a float system, the pump system and the choke system. The secondary side has only three systems; a float system, a low-speed system and a high-speed system.

METERING ROD DUST COVER

BOWL VENT CAP

INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD

AIR HORN

CARBURETOR

IDENTIFICATION TAG

THROTTLE

CONNECTOR ROD

IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER

Fig. 1—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB-2126S) (Throttle Lever Side)

MAIN BODY

THROTTLE BODY

REPAIR STAND

55x217

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

2. FLOAT SYSTEMS

The purpose of the float systems is to maintain an adequate supply of fuel at the proper level in the bowls for use by the low-speed, high-speed, pump, and choke systems. The primary and secondary bowls are separated by a partition. The fuel line connection is above the primary inlet needle and seat. Fuel is supplied to the secondary inlet needle and seat through a passage in the air horn.

Setting the floats to specifications assures an adequate supply of fuel in the bowls for all operating conditions. Float adjustments must be made with the air horn gasket removed and should be checked vertically (specified distance between air horn and floats) and laterally (sides of floats should just clear the arms of gauge).

Correct lateral adjustment is important. If the floats are misaligned, they may bind or drag against the inner walls of the bowl.

The needle valves and seats are carefully matched during manufacture. Do not use the primary needle in the secondary seat or vice versa. To avoid unnecessary bending, both floats should be reinstalled in their original positions and then adjusted.

The bowls are vented to the inside of the air horn and, also, to the atmosphere. The bowl vents are calibrated to provide proper air pressure above the fuel at all times. To assure a positive seal, always use a new air horn gasket when reassembling the carburetor. An air leak at this point can result in a mileage complaint.

A connecting passage along one side of the main body maintains a balance of the fuel levels and air pressures between the two bowls.

3. LOW-SPEED SYSTEMS

Fuel for idle and early part-throttle operation is metered through the low-speed systems. Gasoline enters the idle wells through the metering rod jets on the primary side of the carburetor and through the main metering jets on the secondary side.

The low-speed jets measure the amount of fuel for idle and early part throttle operation. The air by-pass passages, economizers and idle air bleeds are carefully calibrated and serve to break up the liquid fuel and mix it with air as it moves

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—319 through the passages to the idle ports and idle adjustment needle ports. Turning the idle adjustment needles toward their seats reduces the quantity of fuel mixture supplied by the idle system. There are no idle adjustment needles on the secondary side of the carburetor.

The idle ports are slot shaped. As the throttle valves are opened, more of the idle ports are uncovered, allowing a greater quantity of the gasoline and air mixture to enter the carburetor bores.

All by-passes, economizers, idle ports, and idle adjustment needle ports, as well as the bore of the carburetor flange, must be clean and free of deposits. Obstructions will cause poor low speed engine operation. Worn or damaged idle mixture adjusting needles or low speed jets should be replaced.

4. HIGH-SPEED SYSTEM

Fuel for part-throttle and full-throttle operation is supplied through the high-speed system.

5. PRIMARY SIDE

The position of the metering rods in the metering rod jets controls the amount of fuel flowing in the high-speed system of the primary side of the carburetor. The position of the metering rods is controlled mechanically by movement of the throttle and manifold vacuum applied to the vacuum piston on the vacuumeter link.

6. SECONDARY SIDE

Fuel for the high-speed system of the secondary side is metered at the main metering jets (no metering rods are used).

The secondary throttle valves are operated automatically by venturi vacuum from closed to wide open when the primary throttle is open no more than 70 degrees. When the primary throttle is wide open, 80 degrees, the secondary throttle is mechanically opened 10 degrees during the last 10 degrees of travel of the primary. The secondary then operates automatically to wide open.

A mechanical linkage between primary and secondary throttles is provided to positively close the secondary whenever the primary is closed and also to open the secondary 10 degrees when the primary is wide open.

320—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

CHOKE VALVE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FUEL INLET FITTING

THROTTLE o r c K A T I N G LINK

SECONDARY THROTTLE

OPERATING

V A C U U M DIAPHRAGM

IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING

SCREWS (2)

DIAPHRAGM PLUNGER

OPERATING LEVER

THROTTLE OPERATING LEVER

THROTTLE FLEX D O G

THROTTLE SHAFT D O G

Fig. 2—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB-2126S) (Choke Side)

REPAIR STAND

V A C U U M

LINE FITTING

55x218

M A I N VENT TUBE

SECONDARY SIDE

VENT TUBES ^ . .

CORRECT

CHOKE SETTING

SCRIBE MARK

ALIGNED WITH

CENTER INDEX MARK

CHOKE VALVE

(PRIMARY SIDE ONLY)

PRIMARY SIDE

INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

B O W L VENT CAP

Fig. 3—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB-2126S) (Top View)

IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

55x219

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The full opening of the secondary valves is controlled by vacuum. A nozzle in one barrel of the primary side and another in a barrel of the secondary side helps to control this movement.

(See Fig. 3). As the vacuum builds up in the venturi, it acts on the vacuum unit diaphragm through these two nozzles. Movement of the diaphragm arm pulls the secondary throttle valves to the wide open position. The engine operates at idle and the low-speed range on the two primary barrels only. Upon rapid acceleration or wide-open throttle all four barrels are used.

When the engine is cold and the choke is in the closed position, a mechanical latch prevents the secondary side valves from opening so that only the primary side of the carburetor is used during the warm-up period. After the choke is opened fully, the latch is released and allows operation of the secondary valves according to engine requirements.

7. ANTI-PERCOLATOR

To prevent the vapor bubbles (caused by heat) in the nozzle passage and low-speed wells from forcing fuel out of the nozzles, anti-percolator passages and calibrated plugs or bushings are used. Their purpose is to vent the vapors and relieve the pressure before it is sufficient to push the fuel out of the nozzles and into the intake manifold. Anti-percolator plugs, bushings, and main nozzles are permanently installed and must not be removed in service.

8. PUMP SYSTEM

The pump system is found only in the primary side of the carburetor and provides a measured amount of fuel, which is necessary to insure smooth engine operation for acceleration.

When the throttle is closed, the pump plunger moves upward in its cylinder and fuel is drawn into the pump cylinder and past the intake check ball. The discharge check needle is seated at this time to prevent air being drawn into the cylinder. When the throttle is opened, the pump

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—321 plunger moves downward forcing fuel out through the discharge passage, past the discharge check needle, and on out of the pump jets.

When the plunger moves downward the intake check ball is closed, preventing fuel from being forced back into the bowl.

If the throttle is opened suddenly, the upper pump spring will be compressed by the plunger shaft telescoping, resulting in a smoother pump discharge of longer duration. When the throttle valves are opened a predetermined amount, the pump plunger bottoms in the pump cylinder, eliminating pump discharge due to the pump plunger movement at high speeds.

During high speed operation, a vacuum exists at the pump jets. To prevent fuel from being drawn through the pump system, the passage to the pump jets is vented by a cross passage to the carburetor bowl above the fuel level. This allows air, instead of fuel, to be drawn off the pump jets.

9. INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

The integral automatic choke automatically provides satisfactory engine operation under all conditions of starting and warm-up. Manifold vacuum draws air into the choke housing, through a heater tube that projects through the exhaust manifold. This heated air acts on the thermostatic coil so that as the engine warms up, the choke moves toward the "off" position.

The position of the choke valve is further controlled by the action of manifold vacuum on the choke piston. The choke valve is offset so that the air flowing into the carburetor tends to position the valve according to speed and load conditions. The combination of these features provides the required mixture calibration. To prevent over choking a warm or hot engine, a heat retainer plate keeps the thermostatic coil from cooling off too quickly and closing the choke valve while the engine is still hot. The choke is connected to the fast idle cam, which provides the necessary increased idle speeds during the warm-up period.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

10. DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR

To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figure 4, and proceed as follows:

322—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. A—Carburetor Assembly (Disassembled View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—323

1—Strainer, bowl

2—Gasket, fuel inlet strainer plug

3—Plug, fuel inlet strainer

4—Rod, metering

5—Link, pump arm

6—Arm, vent

7—Arm, metering rod, w/screw

8—Screw, vent arm

9—Retainer, bowl vent spring

10—Gasket, dust cover

11—Pin, dust cover vent, w/valve cap

12—Cover, dust

13—Spring, bowl vent

14-Valve, choke

15—Screw, choke valve

16—Arm, pump, w/screw

17—Spring, metering rod

18—Link, vacuumeter piston

19—Rod, metering

20—Screw, air horn

21-Plug, strainer

22—Gasket, strainer plug

23—Strainer, fuel inlet secondary

24-Air horn

25—Gasket, air horn to body

26—Countershaft, w/lever

27—Rod, throttle connector

28—Screw, choke lever

29—Lever, choke

30—Rod, choke connector

31 —Nut, choke lever clamp screw

32—Washer, primary throttle shaft

33—Spring, pump connector rod

34—Retainer, pump connector rod spring

35-Pin, float lever

36—Needle, w/seat, secondary

37—Jet, pump, w/housing

38—Gasket, pump discharge nozzle

39—Needle, pump discharge check

40—Float, w/lever

41-Jet, low-speed

42—Jet, low-speed

43—Jet, primary metering rod

44—Jet, metering rod secondary

45—Plug, pump relief

46—Retainer, pump intake check ball

47—Ball, pump intake check

48—Body (not serviced)

49—Gasket, body to flange

50—Screw, secondary throttle valve

51—Valve, secondary throttle

52—Valve, primary throttle

53—Spring, throttle flex

54—Flange

55—Arm, lockout

56—Shaft, throttle secondary

57—Screw, fast idle cam

58—Cam, fast idle

59—Shaft, throttle primary

60—Spring, fast idle cam

61—Lever, cam trip

62—Spring, throttle lever adjusting screw

63—Screw, throttle lever adjusting

64—Screw, idle adjusting

65—Spring, idle adjusting screw

66—Clip, rod

67—Washer, throttle operating rod

68—Lever, primary throttle operating

69—Dog, primary throttle flex (loose)

70—Washer, primary throttle shaft

Fig. 4—Carburetor Assembly (Disassembled View) (WCFB-2126S)

71—Screw, throttle shaft lever

72—Dog, throttle shaft

73—Gasket, secondary throttle shaft diaphragm housing mounting

74—Housing, secondary throttle diaphragm

75—Lever, secondary throttle shaft operating

76—Screw, secondary throttle shaft diaphragm housing

77—Washer, secondary throttle shaft

78—Screw, throttle shaft lever

79—Rod, throttle operating

80—Diaphragm, secondary throttle shaft

81—Spring, secondary throttle dhphragm return

82—Cap, secondary throttle diaphragm housing

83—Screw, secondary throttle diaphragm housing cap

84—Plunger, pump, w/rod

85—Spring, pump upper

86—Retainer, pump spring

87—Screw, pump jet housing

88-Needle, w/seat (primary)

89—Spring, vacuumeter piston

90—Strainer, primary needle

91—Piston, primary needle

92—Gasket, choke piston housing to air horn

93—Housing, choke piston, w/plug

94—Screw, choke piston housing to air horn

95—Shaft, choke

96-Piston, choke

97—Pin, choke piston

98-Plate, choke baffle

99—Gasket, choke coil housing to air horn

100—Housing, choke w/coil

101— Retainer, choke coil housing

102—Screw, choke coil housing retainer

324—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

(1) Place the carburetor assembly on the carburetor repair stand, Tool C-3400. (This tool is used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)

(2) Remove the choke connector rod, throttle operating rod, and metering rod dust cover.

(When removing the throttle operating rod, first remove the hairpin clip that holds rod to the pump shaft lever for ease in removal.

(3) Carefully unhook the metering rods from the vacuumeter link.

(4) Remove the air horn-to-main body attaching screws, then lift air horn straight up and away from main body. (See Fig. 5.)

(5) Remove the float fulcrum pins and lift floats off air horn. Remove needle valves and seats. Disconnect the vacuum piston by rotating 90 degrees in either direction. Slide out the vacuumeter piston link, and discard the air horn gasket.

CAUTION

It is absolutely necessary to keep the parts from the primary side of the carburetor separated from those of the secondary.

(6) Disconnect the accelerator pump connector link and slide the accelerator pump plunger, spring, and spring guide washer out of air horn.

PRIMARY FLOAT

— AIR HORN

AIR HORN

GASKET

THROTTLE

CONNECTOR

ROD

METERING

ROD

DUST

COVER AIR HORN

ATTACHING

SCREWS

55x220

Fig. 5—Removing or Installing Air Horn

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHOKE SHAFT

LEVER AND LINK

CHOKE PISTON

CHOKE PISTON PIN

5 3 x 9 3 2

Fig. 6—Removing or Installing Choke Piston Pin

(7) Place plunger in a jar of clean gasoline to prevent the leather from drying out.

(8) Remove the fuel inlet plug (primary and secondary), gasket, and screen. Loosen the metering rod arm screw, the vent cap arm screw, and the accelerator pump arm screw; then slide the accelerator pump shaft out of air horn.

(9) Remove the filter screen from the secondary inlet and discard.

11. DISASSEMBLY OF INTEGRAL

AUTOMATIC CHOKE

(1) Remove the screws and retainer ring that attach the thermostatic coil housing to the air horn.

(2) Remove housing, coil spring, gasket, and baffle plate to expose the choke piston.

(3) Loosen the choke shaft lever screw and remove lever.

(4) Using a file, remove the staking that holds the choke valve retaining screws.

(5) Remove screws and lift out choke valve.

These screws are staked to prevent loosening and care should be used to avoid breaking off in the choke shaft.

(6) Rotate the choke shaft counter-clockwise, far enough to withdraw the choke piston out of its cylinder. As piston clears cylinder, withdraw choke shaft and piston out of air horn.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(7) Using a suitable tool, push out the piston pin and separate the piston from link. (See

Fig. 6.)

(8) Remove the screws that hold the choke housing to the air horn. Remove housing and discard gasket.

12. DISASSEMBLY OF MAIN BODY

(1) Remove the vacuumeter piston spring, accelerator pump discharge cluster, gasket and discharge check needle. (It will be necessary to invert the main body to drop out needle.)

(2) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets (primary and secondary). (Be sure and keep primary and secondary jets separate, as they are different and are not interchangeable.)

(3) Again using Tool T-109-58, remove the primary and secondary idle jets. (These jets are interchangeable.)

(4) Invert the main and throttle bodies and remove the throttle body attaching screws

(short screw on primary side-center). Remove throttle body and discard gasket.

13. DISASSEMBLY OF THROTTLE BODY

(1) Remove the throttle operating link (don't lose washers), primary throttle shaft dog, throttle shaft flex dog, throttle operating lever, and spring.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum diaphragm from the secondary operating lever assembly, and remove operating lever and diaphragm assembly. Discard the gasket.

TRIP LEVER

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—325

(3) Remove the screw that attaches the fast idle cam assembly to the throttle body boss, then lift off the fast idle cam assembly, cam trip lever, lockout arm, and screws as shown in Figure 7. When removing the fast idle cam and trip lever, be sure and note the position of the fast idle cam spring and tangs on the trip lever.

NOTE

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves unless wear or damage necessitates the installation of new parts.

(4) During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control port to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly (See Fig. 8). If a new shaft should be installed in an old, worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely affect normal carburetor operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. If it has been decided that new shafts are to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions :

NOTE

It is suggested that the throttle valves be marked in order that each may be returned to the same bore from which it was removed. The screws that attach the throttle valves are staked on the opposite side and care should be used in removal

IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS

SPARK

ADVANCE

PORT

FAST IDLE

LOCKOUT ARM

FAST IDLE C A M

SCREW

55x221

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Fast Idle

Cam Assembly

PRIMARY THROTTLE VALVES

: 55x222

Fig. 8—Ports in Relation to Primary Throttle Valves

326—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

SCREWS

SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT

THROTTLE VALVES

55x223

Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Primary Throttle

Shaft and Lever so as not to break the screws in the throttle shafts.

(5) Remove the screws that hold the primary throttle valves to the throttle shaft.

(6) Lift out valves, then withdraw the throttle shaft, using a twisting motion, as shown in

Figure 9.

(7) Remove the screws that hold the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft.

(8) Lift out valves, then withdraw the throttle shaft using a twisting motion, as shown in

Figure 10.

(9) The primary and secondary valves are not interchangeable and should be kept separate in order that they may be replaced in their original bores.

SECONDARY

THROTTLE SHAFT %\

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

- VACUUM PASSAGE

J5y* - ' HOUSING

— VACUUM PASSAGE

VACUUM PASSAGE HOLE

DIAPHRAGM AND PUSH ROD

VACUUM PASSAGE

SPRING >//<.. r w

SCREWS

COVER

55x225

Fig. 11—Vacuum Diaphragm Assembly

(Disassembled View)

14. DISASSEMBLY OF VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

(1) Remove the screws that attach diaphragm housing cover to the housing. Separate cover and housing and lift out diaphragm, plunger, and spring, as shown in Figure 11.

(2) Check the diaphragm for wear, rupture, or tearing. If necessary, install new diaphragm and plunger assembly.

(3) Remove the two idle mixture adjusting needles and springs from the throttle body, as shown in Figure 12.

(4) The carburetor now has been disassembled into four units; namely, the air horn, main body, throttle body, and automatic choke.

The component parts have been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

ATTACHING SCREWS

THROTTLE VALVES

55x224

Fig. 10—Removing or Installing Secondary

Throttle Shaft

55x226

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing Idle Mixture

Adjusting Needles

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

15. AUTOMATIC CHOKE INSPECTION

For the automatic choke to function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. It is possible, under extremely dusty conditions, that fine particles of dirt may be found deposited on the various choke parts. A heavy, black, hard carbon deposit on the choke parts indicates the possibility of a leak in the heat tube. Check the tube in the exhaust manifold and repair as required.

Examine all choke parts for wear or damage.

Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new, to insure the proper operation of the choke.

Do not attempt to separate the thermostatic coil from the heat retainer plate. The thermostatic coil spring, heat retainer plate and moulded bakelite housing are serviced as an assembly only. If the housing is cracked or broken replace with a complete new assembly, as the index mark cut on the rim of the housing is only correct for the one thermostatic coil spring originally installed.

To remove the thermostatic coil spring and the heat retainer plate from the housing, hit the housing sharply against the palm of the hand.

(Coil side down.)

Clean any dirt, dust or other foreign material that may be present from the retainer plate and out of the housing. When assembling, install new gasket, then match the notch in the plate with the lug in the housing, as shown in Figure 13.

Install plate and press down until seated in housing.

LOCATING NOTCH

AND MATING LUG

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—327

NEW

ATTACHING

SCREWS

If-

NEW

ATTACHING

SCREWS

PRESSURE ON

HIGH SIDE

OF VALVES

55x227

Fig. 14—Installing Primary Throttle Valves

16. INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY

(1) Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme, it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.

(2) Slide the primary throttle shaft and lever in the throttle body, as shown in Figure 9.

(3) Slide the primary valves into position, then install new screws; do not tighten.

(4) Hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 14. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.)

(5) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves

PRESSURt ON

HIGH SIDE

OF VALVES

GASKET

THERMOSTATIC COIL AND

HEAT RETAINER PLATE

Fig. 13—Installing Coil in Housing

5 1 x 2 4 1 ; , 55x228

Fig. 15—Installing Secondary Throttle Valves

328—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS in this position, tighten screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(6) Slide the secondary throttle shaft and lever into the throttle body with the tang on the lever pointing toward the fast idle cam boss, as shown in Figure 10.

(7) Slide the secondary valves into position, then install new screws; do not tighten.

Hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 15. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.)

(8) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten screws securely, and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(9) Install the two idle mixture adjusting needles and springs in the throttle body.

(Refer to Fig. 12). The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers.

Turn the needles lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn for approximate adjustment.

(10) Slide the fast idle cam retaining screw through the fast idle cam (the threaded shank of screw on spring side).

(11) Slide the fast idle cam trip lever over shoulder on screw, guiding the tang between the fast idle spring and cam.

(12) Slide the lockout arm over screw then insert pivot screw in position in throttle body

DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLE VACUUM PASSAGE

' NEW GASKET

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SECONDARY

THROTTLE SHAFT

OPERATING LEVER

HAIR PIN C L I P \ .

55x230 ^ * = *

Fig. 17—Installing Diaphragm Operating Lever and tighten securely. Be sure all parts move freely. (See Fig. 7.)

(13) Slide the diaphragm plunger rod through the slot in diaphragm housing with the hook portion facing up as shown in Figure

16. (Be sure the vacuum hole in the diaphragm is aligned with vacuum passage.)

(14) Install spring, cover and screws, then tighten securely. Install vacuum unit over the secondary throttle shaft and against the throttle body, using a new gasket as shown in Figure 16. Tighten screws securely.

(15) Slide the operating lever over end of secondary throttle shaft with the arm pointing toward the primary throttle shaft as shown in Figure 17.

(16) Install spacer, washer, and screw; then connect the diaphragm plunger rod with the operating lever and install hairpin clip. To check the diaphragm for operation, release the secondary lockout arm; then open the secondary throttle, using the

VALVES SHOULD STAY OPEN

(WIDE OPEN)

HOOK

FACING UP

OPERATING L E V E R — ' ^ g g f ^ w 55

229

Fig. 16—Installing Vacuum Diaphragm Assembly

FINGER TIGHTLY PRESSED

AGAINST VACUUM

PASSAGE HOLE 55x231

Fig. 18—Checking Vacuum of Diaphragm

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—329

OPERATING LINK

THROTTLE

OPERATING

LEVER

THROTTLE FLEX SPRING

THROTTLE FLEX DOG

THROTTLE

SHAFT DOG

SCREW

WASHER 55x232

Fig. 19—Installing Throttle Flex Spring and

Operating Lever operating lever. Place a finger over the vacuum passage hole in the throttle body as shown in Figure 18. Release the operating lever. The throttle valves should hold the wide-open position or close very, very slowly. If the throttle valves snap shut, it is an indication of a leak in the diaphragm or housing mounting gasket. Correct as necessary.

(17) Slide the flex spring into position in the throttle operating lever and over end of primary shaft. Be sure the lever arm is toward the secondary shaft as shown in

Figure 19.

(18) Slide the throttle flex dog over shaft and down against operating lever. Slide the throttle shaft dog over shaft and down against flex dog.

(19) Install washer and screw, then tighten securely. (Be sure the notched tangs are pointing toward the throttle body; see

Fig. 20.)

NOTCHED

TANGS

WASHERS 55x234

Fig. 21—Installing Throttle Operating Link and Washers

(20) Engage flex spring ends with notches on each lever, then install the throttle operating link as shown in Figure 21.

(21) Place the main body upside down on bench, and install a new throttle to main body gasket. Lower the throttle body down on the main body. (Refer to Fig. 22.)

(22) Install screws and tighten securely. The accelerator pump well should be on the same side as the idle mixture adjusting needles. Remember, the short attaching screw should be installed on the primary

side. Invert the carburetor and mount in repair stand, then assemble the main body.

17. MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY

(1) Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle in the discharge passage as shown in

Figure 23.

IDLE MIXTURE

NEEDLES

THROTTLE BODY

THROTTLE FLEX D O G

THROTTLE OPERATING LINK

THROTTLE

SHAFT D O G

55x233 o ~ " ^ WASHER

Fig. 20—Installing Throttle Shaft Dogs

ACCELERATOR

PUMP WELL

MAIN

* - ' - ' BODY

55x235

Fig. 22—Installing Throttle Body

330—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

/DISCHARGE CHECK NEEDLE

DISCHARGE PASSAGE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

55x236

Fig. 23—Installing Accelerator Pump Discharge

Check Needle

(2) Install the primary and secondary idle jets

(refer to Fig, 24).

(3) Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-58.

(4) Install the primary and secondary main metering jets (refer to Fig. 25). Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-58.

(5) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and flex the leather several times. Check to see if the leather is hard, cracked, or worn. If any of the aforementioned conditions exists, install a new accelerator pump plunger. Test the operation of the accelerator pump as follows:

18. ACCELERATOR PUMP TEST

Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl

(approximately V-J inch deep). Insert plunger into its cylinder, then press lightly on plunger

IDLE JET

^ S E C O N D A R Y JETS

55x238

Fig. 25—Installing Primary and Secondary

Main Metering Jets shaft to expel air from the pump passages. Using a small, clean, brass rod, hold the discharge check needle firmly down on its seat. Raise the pump plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage. (See Fig. 26.)

If any fuel does emit from the intake ball check, it should be cleaned and thoroughly blown out with compressed air. Fuel leakage at the discharge needle indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged needle or seat. Clean again and then install a new needle. Recheck for leakage. If either the intake check ball or discharge needle leaks after the above test, attempt to reseat as follows:

N O FUEL

SHOULD BE

EMITTED

(DISCHARGE

PASSAGE)

N O FUEL

SHOULD BE

EMITTED

(INTAKE

PASSAGE)

IDLE JETS

*?s^r -T=fas<83

55x237

Fig. 24—Installing Primary and Secondary Idle Jets

55x239

Fig. 26—Accelerator Pump Test

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL a. Intake Check Ball

Remove the check ball retainer from the bottom of the accelerator pump cylinder. Insert a piece of drill rod down on the check ball. Lightly tap with a hammer to form a new seat. Install a new check ball and retainer, then retest as described previously.

b. Discharge Check Needle

Insert a small piece of drill rod down on needle.

Lightly tap drill rod with a hammer to form a new seat. Discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described previously. If the above instructions do not correct the condition, a new carburetor main body assembly will have to be installed.

Install the accelerator pump discharge cluster, gasket, and screw, as shown in Figure 27. Tighten screw securely. Now depress the accelerator pump plunger. A clear straight stream should emit from each jet. If the streams are not identical, (if either one is diverted or restricted) a new accelerator pump discharge cluster should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove the accelerator pump plunger.

19. AIR HORN ASSEMBLY

(1) Place a new gasket over sleeve on rear of choke housing, and install housing in position on air horn. Tighten screws securely.

(2) Slide the choke piston pin through piston and choke piston link (See Fig. 6) ; slide assembly into air horn.

(3) Slide choke shaft into air horn far enough to allow choke piston to be aligned with

DISCHARGE CLUSTER

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—331

CHOKE SHAFT \ CHOKE HOUSING

CHOKE PISTON

53x931

Fig. 28—Removing or Installing Choke Piston and Shaft center of cylinder, then turn shaft slightly clockwise and allow piston to enter its cylinder. (See Fig. 28.)

(4) Slide the choke valve down into position

(numbered side up) and start NEW screws.

(5) Holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with a screwdriver to center and locate the valve. Tighten screws securely, as shown in Figure 29.

(6) With the valve in the open position, stake the screws using a pair of pliers. DO NOT

LUBRICATE ANY OF THE CHOKE OP-

ERATING PARTS.

(7) Hold the air horn in an upright position and close the choke valve. The valve should open freely of its own weight.

VALVE

CHOKE VALVF

SHAFT

CHOKE

LEVER

Fig. 27—Installing Accelerator Pump

Discharge Cluster

55x240

ATTACHING SCREW

5 3 x 9 3 0

Fig. 29—Removing or Installing Choke Valve

Retaining Screws

332—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

PRIMARY FLOAT NEEDLE SEAT

GASKET

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SCREEN

GASKET

SECONDARY FLOAT

NEEDLE SEAT

F|LTER

SCREEN

55x241

Fig. 30—Primary and Secondary Float

Needle Seats

(8) Install choke baffle plate and gasket.

(9) Place the coil housing retaining ring over housing and, with the index mark in the down position, install coil housing.

(10) Turn housing counter-clockwise until the index mark on the rim of housing is in line with the center index mark on choke housing as shown in Figure 4.

(11) Install screws and tighten securely. To secure the desired performance from the choke during starting and warm-up, the index mark on the coil housing must always be in line with the center index line on the choke housing.

(12) Invert the air horn and install the primary

INDEX MARKS ALIGNED

ACCELERATOR

PUMP ARM

INSTALL LEVER SIDE OF

ARM AWAY FROM^

CCELERATOR

PUMP SHAFT

P U M p S H A F T

AND LEVER V

Fig. 31—Removing or Installing Accelerator

Pump Arm

METERING ROD ARM

53x926

Fig. 32—Removing or Installing Metering Rod Arm and secondary needle seats and gaskets.

(The secondary seat has a tube extension, the primary a small filter screen on the end; see Figure 30.)

(13) Tighten seats securely. Invert the air horn and install new secondary filter screen and plug. Make sure screen is firmly seated.

(14) Slide the accelerator pump shaft and lever into the air horn, just far enough to allow the installation of the accelerator pump arm. (See Fig. 31.)

(15) Install the pump arm with the lever portion facing away from the pump shaft.

(See Fig. 31).

(16) Continue to slide the pump shaft into air horn until shaft protrudes from the support boss.

(17) Now install the metering rod arm. (See

Fig. 32.) The lifter portion must be aligned with the vacuumeter piston link slot in the air horn casting.

(18) Install the bowl vent operating arm with the lever portion facing away from the pump shaft, as shown in Figure 33. Install screw and lockwasher but do not tighten.

(19) Install the fuel inlet filter screen, plug, and gasket. Tighten securely.

(20) Slide the vacuumeter piston link down into slot in air horn with the lifter lip facing away from the pump shaft. Be sure the metering rod tension spring is centered in

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—333

PRIMARY FLOATS

SPECIAL

FLOAT GAUGE

BOWL VENT

OPERATING

ARM

ATTACHING

SCREW A N D

53x925

Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Bowl Vent

Operating Arm the hole at top of link. (As the link is being lowered, engage the lifter portion of arm in the slot in link.) Snug down clamp screw.

(21) Slide the choke lever over end of choke shaft with the lever pointing toward accelerator pump shaft. Snug down screw

(to be adjusted and positioned later).

(22) Invert the air horn and install the primary needle valve in its seat.

(23) Slide the primary float in position and install fulcrum pin. (See Fig. 34.) Check the float setting as follows: Be sure each

needle is installed in its original seat.

20. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT

When making the float level adjustment, be sure

the air horn gasket is removed. The primary and

FULCRUM PIN

PRIMARY FLOAT

FLOATS SHOULD JUST TOUCH GAUGE

AT THESE POINTS 53x954

Fig. 35—Checking Primary Float Setting secondary floats are set at different heights, using two separate gauges. Place the primary float level gauge, Tool T-109-232 (V6"), in position as shown in Figure 35. Both floats should just clear the horizontal section in the gauge.

Bend float arm as required to obtain correct setting. With the notch end of gauge fitting against the side of air horn casting, float arm should be bent for sideways adjustment until floats barely touch the vertical upright of float gauge. (See

Fig. 35.) Repeat the above instructions for the secondary floats using Tool T-109-222 (

"), as shown in Figure 36. It should be noted that the distance between the float and casting machined surface is Vk inch for the primary and %

inch for the secondary floats.

21. FLOAT DROP ADJUSTMENT

(1) After performing the float level adj ustment, hold the air horn assembly in an upright

SECONDARY FLOATS

SPECIAL

FLOAT GAUGE

SECONDARY

FLOAT

Fig. 34—Installing Primary Float

55x242

FLOATS SHOULD JUST TOUCH GAUGE

AT THESE POINTS

53x955

Fig. 36—Checking Secondary Float Setting

334—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

OUTER HOLE

(LONG

STROKE)

Vi6 INCH

SECONDARY

FLOAT SETTING

VB INCH PRIMARY

FLOAT SETTING

± Vi6 INCH DROP

Fig. 37—Float Drop Adjustment

53x956 position and note the distance in which the floats drop, as shown in Figure 37. Both the primary and secondary floats should drop

V2 inch from gauge setting (plus or minus

Vie") when measured at the center of floats, as shown in Figure 37. Adjust as necessary by removing float and bending the small tang which contacts the float needle seat.

Bend tang towards needle seat to lessen drop, or away from seat to increase drop.

(2) Invert the air horn and remove floats. Install a new air horn gasket, then reinstall the primary and secondary floats, and the vacuumeter piston. Tilt piston approximately

90° to either side. For correct installation position on the vacuumeter piston link. (See

Fig. 38.)

(3) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and flex the leather sev-

VACUUMETER PISTON

VACUUMETER PISTON LINK

PUMP CONNECTOR LINK

55x244

Fig. 39—Installing Accelerator Pump

Connector Link eral times. Check to see if the leather is hard, cracked, or worn. If any of the aforementioned conditions exists, install a new accelerator pump plunger.

(4) Slide the accelerator pump plunger spring over plunger shaft, followed by the spring seat (shoulder on seat toward spring). With the spring compressed, slide the shaft end into the opening in air horn. With pressure on the bottom of plunger, invert air horn and install accelerator pump connector link in the top hole in the arm and plunger shaft.

(See Fig. 39.) Install hairpin clip to secure. Before installing link, be sure the hole in the plunger shaft is parallel to the pump shaft. Install link with the hairpin clip groove end entering the hole in the pump arm.

(5) Install the pump inlet jet in position in the main body, then slide the vacuumeter piston spring in the piston well. (See Fig. 40.)

(6) Carefully lower the air horn down on the main body, guiding the accelerator pump

-VACUUMETER PISTON SPRING

Fig. 38—Installing Vacuum Piston

55x243

55x245

Fig. 40—Installing Vacuumeter Piston Spring in Cylinder

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL plunger into its well. Caution: Be sure the leather on the plunger does not curl or wrinkle. Accelerator pump operation will be affected if this precaution is not taken.

Now install the air horn attaching screws as follows:

(7) Insert the six V/i inch screws around the inside diameter of the air horn; tighten securely. Insert the remaining 1 Vi inch screw in its hole in the metering rod chamber.

Tighten securely.

(8) Insert the inch screw in the thick boss at the corner of the air horn casting, between the automatic choke housing and the fuel inlet port.

(9) Insert the remaining screws (% inch) around the outside of air horn and tighten securely.

(10) Install the metering rods, being careful to engage in the loops on the metering rod tension spring.

(11) Install the throttle connector rod and secure with clips.

(12) Engage the keyed end of the choke connector rod with the slot in the choke lever, rotate rod and engage in hole in the cam trip lever. Install clip to secure.

(13) The carburetor now has been completely assembled with the exception of the metering rod dust cover, and is now ready to make the following adjustments in the order listed:

22. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS a. Accelerator Pump Adjustment

Before making this adjustment, be sure that the

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—335

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING

SCREW

Fig. 42—Bending Throttle Connector Rod pump connector link is installed in the outer hole

(long stroke of the pump arm), with the ends pointing toward the pump shaft arm.

Back off the idle speed adjusting screw (if not previously done) until the primary throttle valves are fully seated in their bores. (Make sure the fast idle adjusting screw is off the fast idle cam.) With the throttle valves seated, the distance from the top of the plunger shaft to the top of the dust cover boss should be

]

inch as shown in Figure 41. When making this adjustment be sure that the fast idle adjusting screw does not hold the throttle open.

To adjust the pump setting, bend the throttle connector rod at the lower angle using Tool

T-109-213 as shown in Figure 42.

FLAT O N PUMP ARM

PARALLEL WITH EDGE OF

STRAIGHTEDGE

FLAT O N

PUMP ARM

THROTTLE

VALVES IN

"CLOSED

POSITION

Fig. 41—Accelerator Pump Plunger Travel

55x248

THROTTLE VALVES IN

"CLOSED POSITION"

Fig. 43—Accelerator Pump Plunger Travel

(Optional Adjustment)

336—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

UNLOADER GAUGE

FINGER PRESSURE

AGAINST

CHOKE VALVE

METERING RODS BOTTOMED

THROTTLE VALVES IN,

"CLOSED POSITION"'

THROTTLE VALVES WIDE OPEN

Fig. 44—Metering Rod Adjustment

55x249 b. Optional Accelerator Pump Adjustment

Hold a straightedge across top of dust cover boss as shown in Figure 43, and adjust length of connector as in the preceding adjustment until the flat on the top of pump arm (under set screw) is parallel with upper edge of straight edge.

c. Metering Rod Adjustment

Loosen the set screw in the metering rod arm

(if previously tightened) enough to obtain a slight bind on the pump shaft. Lift arm slightly.

With the primary throttle valves seated in their bores, depress the metering rod link until the metering rods bottom, as shown in Figure 44.

CHOKE VALVE

HELD CLOSED

Fig. 46—Choke Unloader Adjustment

55x251

Keeping the arm in contact with the metering rod link, tighten the set screw securely.

d. Choke Rod Adjustment

Loosen the choke shaft lever clamp screw. Insert a .010 inch wire gauge, Tool T-109-200, between tang on the fast idle cam and boss on the throttle body casting. Hold this gauge in place by pressure of screwdriver exerted on the choke shaft lever clamp screw, as shown in Figure 45. This will take up all slack in the linkage. Now hold the choke valve tightly closed and tighten the clamp screw securely.

e. Choke Unloader Adjustment

With the primary throttle valves held in the wide open position, insert a %« inch drill, or unloader gauge Tool T-109-28, between upper edge of

SPECIAL TOOL

55x250

BOSS O N

THROTTLE

BODY

.020

^GAUGE

Fig. 45—Choke Rod Adjustment

UNLOADER TANG <•" 55x252

Fig. 47—Bending Unloader Tang

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHOKE MOVED TO

WIDE OPEN POSITION

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—337

.018" WIRE GAUGE

LOCKOUT LEVER SHOULD!

FALL FREE OF TANG O N

SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT

TANG

55x253

Fig. 48—Secondary Throttle Lockout Adjustment choke valve and inner dividing wall of the air horn, as shown in Figure 46. With the finger pressing lightly against the upper part of choke valve, a slight drag should be felt on the gauge as it is being withdrawn. If no drag is felt, or if too much drag is apparent, bend the unloader tang on the throttle lever, as shown in Figure 47, until correct clearance has been obtained. Use

Tool T-109-41 to bend tang.

f. Secondary Throttle Lockout Adjustment

Move the choke valve to the wide open position, the lockout lever should fall free of the tang on the secondary throttle shaft, as shown in

Figure 48. Bend tang on secondary throttle lever

FAST IDLE SCREW

O N HIGH STEP

OF. CAM

55x254

Fig. 50—Fast Idle Adjustment until clearance has been obtained, as shown in

Figure 49.

g. Fast Idle Adjustment

Insert a .018 inch wire gauge, Tool T-109-44, between the primary throttle valves and side of bore, opposite idle adjusting screws. Move the choke valve to the fully closed position, and adjust the fast idle screw to give a slight drag on the wire gauge when the screw is resting on the high step of the fast idle cam, as shown in

Figure 50.

The idle speed and mixture adjustments must be performed after installation of the carburetor on the engine.

After these adjustments have been checked and corrected, install the metering rod dust cover and gasket. Tighten screws securely.

h. Bowl Vapor Vent Cap Adjustment

With the throttle at idle position, the bowl vent cap should be lifted approximately Vi6 inch off its seat. Use Tool T-109-97, as shown in Figure

51, to check the clearance. To increase clearance, remove metering rod dust cover and bend actuating arm. To decrease lift, press down on cap until correct lift has been obtained.

BOWL VENT CAP v ^SPECIAL TOOL

SECONDARY

THROTTLE

SHAFT

1/16* RISE

TANG (BEND UP

OR DOWN)

LOCKOUT ARM 5 3 x 9 6 5

Fig. 49—Bending Secondary Throttle Shaft Tang

THROTTLE VALVES AT IDLE POSITION

55x255 *

Fig. 51—Checking Bowl Vent Cap Lift

338—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

23. INSUFFICIENT FUEL DELIVERY

Possible Causes: a. Vent in tank filler cap restricted.

b. Leaks in fuel line fittings.

c. Worn, ruptured or torn diaphragm.

d. Improperly seating valves.

e. Weak main spring.

f. Defective fuel pump.

Remedies: a. Remove restriction from filler cap or replace cap.

b. Check fittings for leaks, and tighten or replace as required.

c. Replace damaged diaphragm assembly.

d. Check valves for operation. Replace parts as required.

e. Replace weak main spring after testing pump.

f. Replace fuel pump.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

25. FUEL PUMP LEAKS—OIL

Possible Causes: a. Cracked or deteriorated oil seal.

b. Loose rocker arm pivot pin.

c. Loose pump mounting bolts.

d. Defective pump to block gasket.

Remedies: a. Replace diaphragm assembly. Oil leakage at breather hole in rocker arm housing will indicate a defective oil seal.

b. Replace loose rocker arm pin. When removing old pin, avoid enlarging pin hole.

c. Tighten loose mounting bolts after checking pump to block gasket. Always install new gasket when servicing pump. Tighten bolts to

20 foot-pounds torque.

d. Replace defective gasket and tighten the mounting bolts as indicated in c above.

24. FUEL PUMP LEAKS—FUEL

Possible Causes:

a. Loose housing screws.

b. Worn, ruptured or torn diaphragm.

c. Loose diaphragm mounting plates.

d. Loose inlet or outlet line fittings.

Remedies:

a. Tighten loose housing screws securely after checking diaphragm for possible damage.

If necessary, replace diaphragm assembly.

b. Replace damaged diaphragm assembly after testing pump.

c. Replace diaphragm assembly after testing pump.

d. Check inlet and outlet fittings for stripped or crossed threads. Replace and tighten fittings.

26. FUEL PUMP NOISE

Possible Causes:

a. Loose mounting bolts.

b. Scored or worn rocker arm.

c. Weak or broken rocker arm follower spring.

Remedies: a. Tighten loose mounting bolts (after installing new gasket), to 20 foot-pounds torque.

Check pump for leaks after tightening.

b. Replace scored or worn rocker arm. Then, test spring load of arm follower spring. Replace spring if necessary.

c. Replace weak or broken follower spring.

Test weak spring as in b above. (A weak or broken follower spring will not allow rocker

arm to follow eccentric cam on camshaft and a rapping noise will result.)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

27. POOR IDLING

Possible Causes: a. Idle air bleed carbonized or of incorrect size.

b. Idle discharge holes plugged or gummed.

c. Throttle body carbonized or throttle shaft worn.

d. Damaged or worn idle mixture needle.

e. Incorrect fuel level.

f. Loose main body to throttle body screws.

Remedies: a. Disassamble carburetor. Then, use compressed air to clear idle bleed after soaking it in a suitable solvent.

b. Disassamble carburetor. Then, use compressed air to clear idle discharge holes after soaking main and throttle bodies in suitable solvent.

c. Disassemble carburetor. Check throttle valve shaft for wear. If excessive wear is apparent, replace throttle body assembly.

d. Replace worn or damaged idle needle. Adjust air mixture.

e. Check fuel level in carburetor. Adjust as necessary to obtain correct float level.

f. Tighten main body to throttle body screws securely to prevent air leaks and cracked housings.

28. POOR ACCELERATION

Possible Causes: a. Accelerator pump by-pass seat corroded or bad.

b. Accelerator pump piston (or plunger) leather too hard, worn, or loose on stem.

c. Faulty accelerator pump discharge.

d. Faulty accelerator pump inlet check valve.

e. Incorrect fuel level.

f. Worn or corroded needle valve and seat.

g. Worn accelerator pump and throttle linkage.

h. Automatic choke not operating properly.

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—339

Remedies: a. Disassemble carburetor. Clean and inspect accelerator pump by-pass jet. Replace by-pass jet, if it is in questionable condition.

b. Disassemble carburetor. Replace accelerator pump assembly if leather is hard, cracked or worn. Test follow-up spring for compression.

c. Dissassemble carburetor. Use compressed air to clear the discharge nozzle and channels, after soaking main body in a suitable solvent.

Check the pump capacity.

d. Disassemble carburetor. Check accelerator pump inlet check valve for poor seat or release.

If part is faulty, replace.

e. Check fuel level in carburetor. Adjust as necessary to obtain correct float level.

f. Clean and inspect needle valve and seat.

If found to be in questionable condition, replace assembly. Then, check fuel pump pressure. Refer to Data and Specifications for correct fuel pump pressure.

g. Disassemble carburetor. Replace worn accelerator pump and throttle linkage and check for correct position.

h. Check adjustment and operation of automatic choke. If necessary, replace the choke.

29. CARBURETOR FLOODS OR LEAKS

Possible Causes: a. Cracked body.

b. Defective body gaskets.

c. High float level.

d. Worn needle valve and seat.

e. Excessive fuel pump pressure.

Remedies: a. Disassemble carburetor. Replace cracked body. Make sure main to throttle body screws are tight.

b. Disassemble carburetor. Replace defective gaskets and check for leakage. Be sure screws are tightened securely.

c. Check fuel level in carburetor. Make necessary adjustment to obtain correct float level.

340—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS d. Clean and inspect needle valve and seat.

If found to be in a questionable condition, replace complete assembly and check fuel pump pressure. Refer to Data and Specifications for correct fuel pump pressure.

e. Test fuel pump pressure. If pressure is in excess of recommended pressure (refer to Data and Specifications), replace fuel pump.

30. POOR PERFORMANCE—MIXTURE TOO

RICH

Possible Causes: a. Restricted air cleaner.

b. Excess oil in air cleaner.

c. Leaking float.

d. High float level.

e. Excessive fuel pump pressure.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL f. Worn metering jet.

Remedies: a. Remove and clean air cleaner.

b. Remove and clean air cleaner. Refill reservoir to proper level with correct lubricant.

Refer to Lubrication Section in this manual.

c. Disassemble carburetor. Replace leaking float. Check float level and correct as necessary to obtain proper float level.

d. Adjust float level as necessary to secure proper level.

e. Check fuel pump pressure. Refer to Data and Specifications for recommended pressure.

If pressure is in excess of recommended pressure, replace fuel pump assembly.

f. Disassemble carburetor. Replace worn metering jet, using a new jet of the correct size and type.

CARBURETOR (Model WCFB-2317S) (C-300 SERIES)

1. DESCRIPTION

Twin Carter WCFB-2317S four-barrel carburetors are used on the Chrysler C-300 V-8 engine, as shown in Figures A and B.

The service procedures covering the two carburetors are identical.

The Carter Model WCFB carburetor is basically two dual carburetors contained in one assembly (or four per engine). The section containing the metering rods, accelerating pump and choke is termed the primary side of the carburetor, the other section, the secondary side.

It has five conventional systems, as have been used in previous carburetors. They are:

2—Float System

2—Low-Speed System

2—High-Speed System

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

(ADJUSTING)

155x7371

Fig. A—Air Cleaner and Silencer Removed

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

[AIR CLEANERS AND

Fig. B—Air Cleaner and Silencer Installed

1—Pump System

1—Integral Automatic Choke System

2. FLOAT SYSTEMS

The purpose of the float systems is to maintain an adequate supply of fuel at the proper level in the bowls for use by the low-speed, high-speed, pump and choke systems. Primary, and secondary bowls are separated by a partition. The fuel line connection is above the primary needle and seat. Fuel is supplied to the secondary needle and seat through the passage in the air horn.

Correct lateral adjustment is important. If the floats are misaligned, they may bind or drag against the inner walls of the bowl. Adjust by bending the float arms.

Needle valves and seats are carefully matched during manufacture. Do not use the primary needle in the secondary seat or vice versa. To avoid unnecessary bending, both floats should be reinstalled in their original positions and adjusted.

The bowls are vented to the inside of the air horn and also to atmosphere. Bowl vents are calibrated to provide proper air pressure above the fuel at all times. To assure a positive seal, always use a new air horn gasket when assembling. An air leak at this point can result in a mileage complaint.

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—341

A connecting passage along one side of the body effects a balance of the fuel levels and air pressures between the two bowls.

3. LOW-SPEED SYSTEM

Fuel for idle and early part throttle operation is metered through the low-speed system.

Gasoline enters the idle wells through the metering rod jets on the primary side of the carburetor and through the main metering jets on the secondary side.

The low-speed jets measure the amount of fuel for idle and early part-throttle operation. The air by-pass passages, economizers and idle air bleeds are carefully calibrated and serve to break up the liquid fuel and mix it with air as it moves through the passages to the idle ports and idle adjustment screw ports. Turning the idle adjustment screws toward their seats reduces the quantity of fuel mixture supplied by the idle system.

There are no idle adjustment screws on the secondary side of the carburetor.

The idle ports are slot shaped. As the throttle valves are opened more of the idle ports are uncovered allowing a greater quantity of the gasoline and air mixture to enter the carburetor bores.

All by-passes, economizers, idle ports, idle adjustment screw ports, as well as the bore of the carburetor flange must be clean and free of carbon. Obstructions will cause poor low speed engine operation. Worn or damaged idle adjustment screws or low-speed jets should be replaced.

4. HIGH-SPEED SYSTEM

Fuel for part-throttle and full throttle operation is supplied through the high-speed system.

5. PRIMARY SIDE

The position of the metering rods in the metering rod jets control the amount of fuel flowing in the high speed system of the primary side of the carburetor. The position of the metering rods is controlled mechanically by movement of the throttle and by manifold vacuum applied to the vacuum piston on the vacuumeter link.

342-—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

6. SECONDARY SIDE

Fuel for the high-speed system of the secondary side is metered at the main metering jets (no metering rods used).

Throttle valves in the secondary side remain closed until the primary throttle valves have been opened a pre-determined amount. They reach the wide open throttle position at the same time the primary throttle does. This is accomplished by linkage between the throttle levers.

The WCFB-2317S Carburetors are equipped with a pair of velocity valves, which control the secondary valve operation. The throttle valves of the secondary half of the carburetor are mechanically connected to the primary valves and open with the primary, after an approximate 60° lag; and continue to open until both primary and secondary throttle valves reach the wide open position simultaneously. As engine speed increases, the forces exerted by the velocity of intake air down through the Venturis of the carburetor increases, and tends to overcome the counterweight attached to the velocity valve shaft, permitting the offset velocity valves to position themselves according to engine requirements.

When the engine is cold and the choke is in closed position, a mechanical latch prevents the velocity valves from opening, so that only the primary side of the carburetor is used during the warm-up period. After the choke is opened fully, the latch is released, and allows operation of the velocity valves according to engine requirements.

7. ANTI-PERCOLATOR

To prevent the vapor bubbles in the nozzle passages and low-speed wells caused by heat from forcing fuel out of the nozzles, anti-percolator passages, and calibrated plugs or bushings are used. Their purpose is to vent the vapors and relieve the pressure before it is sufficient to push the fuel out of the nozzles and into the intake manifold. Anti-percolator plugs, bushings, and main nozzles are permanently installed and must not be removed in service.

8. PUMP SYSTEM

The pump system is found only in the primary side of the carburetor.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

The accelerating pump system provides a measured amount of fuel, which is necessary to insure smooth engine operation for acceleration.

When the throttle is closed, the pump plunger moves upward in its cylinder and fuel is drawn into pump cylinder, and past the intake checkball. The discharge check needle is seated at this time to prevent air being drawn into the cylinder.

When the throttle is opened the pump plunger moves downward forcing fuel out through the discharge passage, past the discharge check needle, and out of the pump jets. When the plunger moves downward the intake checkball is closed preventing fuel from being forced back into the bowl.

If the throttle is opened suddenly, the upper pump spring will be compressed by the plunger shaft telescoping, resulting in a smoother pump discharge of longer duration.

When the throttle valves are opened, a predetermined amount, the pump plunger bottoms in the pump cylinder eliminating pump discharge due to pump plunger movement at high speeds.

During high speed operation a vacuum exists at the pump jets. To prevent fuel from being drawn through the pump system the passage to the pump jets is vented by a cross passage to the carburetor bowl above the fuel level. This allows air instead of fuel to be drawn off the pump jets.

9. INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

The automatic choke used on this carburetor embodies features developed exclusively by

Chrysler Corporation. It automatically provides satisfactory engine operation under all conditions of starting and warm-up. Manifold vacuum draws air into the choke housing, through a heater tube projecting into the exhaust manifold. This heated air acts on the thermostatic coil so that, as the engine warms up, the choke moves toward the "off" position. The position of the choke valve is further controlled by the action of manifold vacuum on the choke piston.

The choke valve is offset so that the air flowing into the carburetor tends to position the valve according to speed and load conditions. The combination of these features provides the required mixture calibration. To prevent overchoking a

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

AIR HORN

INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC

CHOKE H O U S I N G

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—343

CHOKE VALVE

/ C H O K E SHAFT LEVER

ACCELERATOR PUMP

SHAFT A N D LEVER

B O W L

VENTS (4)

THROTTLE

CONNECTOR

ROD

THROTTLE LEVER

SECONDARY

THROTTLE

RETURN SPRING

SECONDARY

THROTTLE

OPERATING ROD

SECONDARY

THROTTLE SHAFT

PRIMARY THROTTLE SHAFT

M A I N BODY

^-THROTTLE BODY

IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING SCREWS

Fig. 1—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB 2317S)

54x461

B O W L VENTS (4)

INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING SCREW (2)

C A M TRIP LEVER

—— AIR HORN

CARBURETOR MODEL

IDENTIFICATION T A G

M A I N BODY

THROTTLE BODY

— VELOCITY VALVE SHAFT

VELOCITY VALVE COUNTERWEIGHT

VELOCITY VALVE LOCKOUT

IDLE C A M A N D SPRING

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER A N D SHAFT

54x462

Fig. 2—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB 2317S)

344—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

4 8

4 7

Fig. 3—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB 2317S) (Exploded View)

54x499

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—345

1—Screw, dust cover

2—Cover, dust

3—Gasket, dust cover

4—Screw, choke valve

5-Valve, choke

6—Clip, hairpin

7—Arm, accelerator pump

8—Link, pump connector

9—Spring, metering rod

10—Link, vacuumeter piston

11 —Metering rod

12—Screw, spring bracket

13—Screw, air horn retaining

14—Bracket, spring

15—Air horn

16—Screw, choke shaft lever

17—Lever, choke shaft

18—Nut, choke shaft lever screw

19—Gasket, air horn

20—Shaft, accelerator pump

21—Piston, vacuumeter

22—Spring, vacuumeter piston

23—Needle valve and seat assembly, fuel inlet

24-Valve, fuel inlet needle

25—Pin, float fulcrum

26—Float, secondary

27—Float, primary

28—Screw, pump jet housing

29—Housing, pump jet

30—Gasket, pump jet housing

31—Jets, secondary main

32—Jets, secondary idle

33—Retainer, ball check

34—Main body, carburetor

35—Gasket, main body

36—Valves, velocity

37—Valves, secondary throttle

38—Valves, primary throttle

39—Rod, choke connector

40—Clip, hairpin

41—Shaft, velocity valve

42—Screw, fast idle cam

43-Clip, hairpin

44—Rod, throttle connector

45—Shaft and lever, throttle

46—Clip, throttle connector rod

47-Cam, fast idle

48—Spring, fast idle cam

49—Lever, cam trip

50—Screw, idle speed

51—Spring, adjusting screw

52-Screw, throttle body

53—Throttle body

54—Spring, idle mixture needle

55-Needle, idle mixture

56—Spring, idle mixture needle

57—Arm, throttle shaft

58—Dog, throttle shaft

59—Washer, throttle shaft spacer

60—Screw, dog and arm retainer

61—Clip, hairpin

62—Rod, throttle operating

63—Spring, secondary throttle lever

64—Shaft, secondary throttle

65—Screw, throttle valve retaining

66—Plug, accelerator pump passage

67—Jets, primary main

68—Jets, primary idle

69—Needle, pump discharge

70—Pin, float fulcrum

71—Pump, accelerator

72—Valve, fuel inlet needle

73—Seat, fuel inlet needle valve

74—Spring, accelerator pump

75—Retainer, accelerator pump spring

76—Screw, air horn

77—Gasket, choke housing

78—Housing, choke

79—Screw, choke housing

80—Screw, choke housing

81-Shaft, choke

82—Piston, choke

83—Pin, choke piston

84-Plate, choke baffle

85—Gasket, coil housing

86—Housing, integral choke

87—Ring, choke housing retaining

88—Screw, retaining ring

89—Rod, metering

90-Screen, fuel inlet

91—Gasket, fuel inlet plug

92—Plug, fuel inlet passage

93—Arm, metering rod

94—Spacer, metering rod arm

Fig. 3—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB 2317S)

346—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS warm or hot engine, a heat retainer plate keeps the thermostatic coil from cooling off too quickly and closing the choke valve while the engine is

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL still hot. The choke is connected to the fast idle cam, which provides the necessary increased idle speeds during the warm-up period.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

10. SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

Servicing the carburetor should only be done by an experienced carburetor mechanic and with the PROPER TOOLS.

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

The carburetor is a very dependable unit and will continue functioning properly for long periods without attention.

Often, the carburetor is blamed for a great variety of trouble, which is classed as "POOR

CAR PERFORMANCE." Therefore, be definitely sure that the trouble is not located elsewhere before disassembling the carburetor.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job:

(1) The carburetor must be disassembled.

(2) All parts should be cleaned in a suitable solvent and inspected for damage or wear.

(3) Use air pressure only, to clean the various orifices and channels.

(4) Replace questionable parts with NEW

ONES. When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is difficult at times to be sure they are satisfactory for further service. It is therefore recommended that in such cases, NEW parts be installed.

11. DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR

To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, and proceed as follows:

(1) Place the carburetor assembly on repair block Tool C-3400. (This Tool is used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SECONDARY BARRELS

INTEGRAL

AUTOMATIC

CHOKE

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—347

CARBURETOR IDENTIFICATION TAG

(DO N O T DESTROY)

PRIMARY BARRELS

FUEL INLET 54x460

Fig. 4 — F o u r Barrel C a r b u r e t o r (Top V i e w ) W C F B 2 3 1 7 S

(2) Remove the choke connector rod, as shown in Figure 5.

(3) Remove the throttle connector rod, as shown in Figure 6. Remove the metering rod dust cover, as shown in Figure 7.

(4) Unhook the metering rods from the vacuumeter piston link and remove, as shown in

Figure 8.

(5) Of the sixteen bowl cover attaching screws and lockwashers, six of these are found around the inside air horn, nine around the flange of the bowl cover and one within the metering rod and pump countershaft enclosure.

CHOKE CHOKE SHAFT A N D LEVER

CONNECTOR

ROD

METERING ROD DUST COVER

PUMP SHAFT LEVER

THROTTLE

CONNECTOR

ROD

ACCELERATOR PUMP

SHAFT AND LEVER

CLIP

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

^ HAIRPIN CLIP 54x463

Fig. 5—Removing or Installing Choke Connector Rod

HAIRPIN CLIP

CUP-% V

V j

54,464

Fig. 6—Removing or Installing Throttle Connector Rod

348—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

DUST COVER GASKET

METERING

RODS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FLOAT

FULCRUM PIN

AIR HORN

GASKET

PRIMARY FLOAT

SECONDARY

FLOAT

M A I N BODY

THROTTLE

RETURN

SPRING

ATTACHING

SCREWS

54x465

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Metering Rod Dust

Cover

(6) Remove the sixteen screws and lock washers that hold the air horn to the main body, and disconnect the secondary throttle return spring.

(7) Using finger pressure only, lift air horn assembly up and away from main body, as shown in Figure 9.

(8) Removing the air horn assembly, be sure and lift air horn straight up and away from main body in order not to bend or damage the floats, accelerator pump plunger or vacuumeter piston.

12. AIR HORN DISASSEMBLY

(1) Lay the air horn in an inverted position on

METERING ROD i T A G

SPRING BRACKET

SCREWS (LONG)

SCREWS (SHORT)

54x467

Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Air Horn the bench and proceed to disassemble as follows:

(2) With a suitable tool, push out the primary float fulcrum pin. Lift primary float up and away from air horn, as shown in Figure 10.

NOTE

It is absolutely necessary to keep parts from the primary side of the carburetor separated from those of the secondary side.

(3) Push out the secondary float fulcrum pin,

- PRIMARY FLOAT

VACUUMETER

PISTON

METERING

54x466

Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Metering Rods

FULCRUM PIN

ACCELERATOR

PUMP PLUNGER

54x468

Fig. 10—Removing or Installing Primary and

Secondary Floats

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NEEDLE VALVE SEAT

VACUUMETER PISTON

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—349

NEEDLE VALVE SEAT ™ ^ 54x469

Fig. 11—Removing or Installing Vacuumeter Piston lift the secondary float up and away from the carburetor air horn.

(4) Rotate the vacuumeter piston 90° to either side and remove, as shown in Figure 11.

Remove the gasket from the bottom of the air horn and discard.

(5) Remove the two needle valves from their respective seats. Remove the primary and secondary seats and gaskets, as shown in

Figure 12. Be sure each needle valve is returned to its original seat if it is to be used again at assembly.

NEEDLE VALVE SEAT

Fig. 13—Removing or Installing Pump Connector

Link

(6) Invert the carburetor air horn, and remove the hairpin clip from the pump connector link.

(7) Disengage pump connector link from the accelerator pump arm, as shown in Figure 13.

(8) Slide the accelerator pump plunger spring and spring guide washer out from under air horn.

(9) Remove the fuel inlet plug, gasket and screen from the air horn, as shown in

Figure 14.

(10) Loosen the metering rod arm screw then, disengage the vacuumeter piston link from the metering rod arm and withdraw vacuumeter link directly out of metering rod chamber.

(11) Loosen the screws that hold the metering rod arm and the accelerator pump arm to the accelerator pump shaft.

PLUG AND GASKET

NEEDLE VALVE

SEAT AND GASKET"

54x470

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing Needle Valve, Seat and Gasket

VACUUMETER LINK 54x472

Fig. 14—Removing or Installing Filter Screen and Plug

350—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

METERING ROD ARM\ ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COIL HOUSING

VACUUMETER PISTON L I N K ' " ^ | p 54x473

Fig. 15—Removing or Installing Metering Rod Arm

(12) Slowly withdraw shaft and lift out metering rod spacer and accelerator pump arms, as shown in Figures 15 and 16.

13. INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE

DISASSEMBLY

(1) Remove the three screws and retainer ring that hold the thermostatic coil housing to the air horn.

(2) Lift off the housing and thermostatic coil spring, as shown in Figure 17.

(3) Remove the housing gasket and lift out baffle plate.

(4) Loosen the choke shaft lever clamp screw and slide lever off end of choke shaft.

ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT

ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM

BAFFLE PLAT

GASKET

SCREWS

RETAINER RING

54x475

Fig. 17—Removing or Installing Thermostatic Coil

Spring Housing

(5) Remove the two choke valve retaining screws that hold the choke valve to the choke shaft, as shown in Figure 18. Lift out the choke valve.

These screws are staked to prevent loosening, and extreme care is necessary to avoid breaking in choke shaft.

(6) Rotate the choke shaft enough to withdraw choke piston out of its cylinder, as shown in Figure 19. As the choke clears cylinder, withdraw shaft and piston out of air horn.

(7) Using a suitable tool, withdraw the choke piston pin, as shown in Figure 20.

CHOKE VALVE

METERING ROD ARM 54x474

Fig. 16—Removing or Installing Accelerator

Pump Arm

54x476 CHOKE SHAFT LEVER

Fig. 18—Removing or Installing Choke Valve

Retaining Screw

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHOKE PISTON

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—351

CHOKE HOUSING

• / CHOKE SHAFT

Fig. 19—Removing or Installing Choke Piston and Shaft

(8) Separate choke piston from link. Remove the three screws that hold the choke housing to the air horn.

(9) Work choke housing directly out and away from air horn, as shown in Figure 21. Discard gasket.

14. MAIN BODY DISASSEMBLY

(1) Lift the vacuumeter piston spring out of the vacuumeter piston cylinder in the main body, as shown in Figure 22.

(2) Remove the screw from the accelerator pump discharge cluster, then lift off cluster and gasket, as shown in Figure 23.

(3) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out the accelerator pump discharge check needle.

DISCHARGE

CLUSTER

ATTACHING SCREWS _ * _

eA A

^ a

34x4/8

Fig. 21—Removing or Installing Choice Housing

54x479

Fig. 22—Removing or Installing Vacuumeter

Piston Spring

DISCHARGE

CLUSTER

GASKET

CHOKE SHAFT,

LEVER A N D LINK

CHOKE PISTON

CHOKE PISTON PIN

53x932

Fig. 20—Removing or Installing Choke Piston Pin

54x480

Fig. 23—Removing or Installing Discharge Cluster and Gasket

352—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

IDLE JETS (PRIMARY SIDE)

54x481

Fig. 24—Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets

(Primary Side)

(4) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets (primary side), as shown in

Figure 24. The primary and secondary main metering jets are not interchangeable.

(5) It is very important at reassembly, that these jets be installed in their respective positions in the carburetor main body.

(6) Again, using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 25.

(7) Using a wide blade screwdriver, remove the two fuel sight plugs from the carburetor main body. This need be done, only if screwdriver slots are damaged or a leak is indicated.

54x518

Fig. 26—Removing or Installing Idle Jets

(Primary Side)

(8) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the idle jets

(primary side), as shown in Figure 26.

(9) Remove the idle jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 27.

The idle jets on the primary and secondary side of the carburetor are interchangeable.

(10) Invert the carburetor on the bench, then remove the four throttle body to main body attaching screws. Lift throttle body

IDLE JETS

(SECONDARY SIDE)

M A I N METERING JETS

Fig. 25—Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets

(Secondary Side)

54x519

Fig. 27—Removing or Installing Idle Jets

(Secondary Side)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PRIMARY VALVES IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING

SCREWS

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—353

PRIMARY OPERATING LEVER

THROTTLE SHAFT D O G

THROTTLE

BODY

VELOCITY VALVE

COUNTERWEIGHT

M A I N BODY

5 4 x 5 2 0

Fig. 28—Removing or Installing Throttle Body up and away from main body, as shown in

Figure 28. Discard gasket.

15. THROTTLE BODY DISASSEMBLY

(1) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the throttle operating rod to the primary operating lever.

(2) Slide rod out of lever, and disengage from the secondary throttle shaft lever, as shown in Figure 29.

(3) Remove the screw that holds the throttle shaft washer, primary throttle shaft dog and primary operating lever to the primary

SECONDARY

THROTTLE

SHAFT

LEVER

PRIMARY

OPERATING

LEVER

HAIRPIN CLIP p p r " //WASHER

/*4 SCREW

THROTTLE _ , ^ / < £

OPERATING ROD ^ U 54x522

Fig. 30—Removing Throttle Shaft Dog throttle shaft. Slide washer, dog and lever off end of throttle shaft, as shown in Figure 30.

(4) Remove the screw that attaches the fast idle cam assembly to the throttle body boss, and lift off the fast idle cam assembly, cam trip lever and screw, as shown in Figure 31.

(5) When removing cam and trip lever, be sure and note the position of the fast idle cam spring and tangs on trip lever.

(6) It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves, unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts. During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark ad-

C A M TRIP LEVER

THROTTLE OPERATING ROD

HAIRPIN CLIP ~ ~ - + #

Fig. 29—Removing or Installing Throttle

Operating Rod

54x521 FAST IDLE C A M SCREW

FAST IDLE C A M

54x523

Fig. 31—Removing or Installing Fast Idle Cam

Assembly

354—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

f. PRIMARY j THROTTLE

VALVES

IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SECONDARY VALVE

(THICK)

54x524

Fig. 32—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves vance control port to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly.

(See Fig. 32.)

If new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely effect normal carburetor operation between the speeds of 15 and

30 miles per hour. However, if it has been determained the new shaft is to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions:

(7) Remove the four screws that hold the primary throttle valves to the throttle shaft.

Lift out valves, then withdraw primary throttle shaft using a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 33.

PRIMARY VALVE

(

™

I N )

53x946

Fig. 34—Throttle Valve Identification

These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used in removal so as not to

break the screws in the shaft. It is suggested, that the throttle valves be marked in order that each may be returned to the same bore from which it was removed.

The primary and secondary throttle valves are not interchangeable and should be kept separate in order that they may be replaced in their original bores. (Refer to Fig. 34.)

(8) Remove the four screws that hold the velocity valves to the velocity valve shaft.

(9) Lift out the velocity valves, and withdraw the velocity valve shaft, with a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 35.

VELOCITY VALVE SHAFT

PRIMARY THROTTLE

SHAFT AND LEVER

PRIMARY

THROTTLE VALVES

' ^ - A T T A C H I N G SCREWS

^ 54x525

Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Primary Throttle

Shaft

ATTACHING

SCREWS

54x526

Fig. 35—Removing or Installing Velocity Valve Shaft

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—355

(10) Remove the four screws that attach the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft.

(11) Lift out valves, and withdraw secondary throttle shaft with a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 36.

(12) Remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and the springs from the throttle body, as shown in Figure 37.

The carburetor now has been disassembled into four units namely the air horn, main body and throttle body, and the component parts disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

16. CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable.

However, there are other commercial solvents which may be used with satisfactory results.

NOTE

If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be

"HOT." After rinsing, all traces of water must be blotvn from the passages with air pressure.

It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains.

To remove gum and carbon deposits, a soft brush should be used while the parts are soaking

SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT

ATTACHING

SCREWS

SECONDARY

THROTTLE

VALVES

54x527

Fig. 36—Removing or Installing Secondary Throttle

Shaft

IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING SCREWS

A N D SPRINGS

54x515

Fig. 37—Removing or Installing Idle Mixture

Adjusting Screws in the solvent. After cleaning, all parts should be rinsed in clean solvent and then all passages blown out with compressed air. Do not immerse the bakelite choke housing in the solvent because of possible damage.

Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.

Incorporated in the air horn, is the integral automatic choke. To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely.

It is possible, under extremely dusty conditions, that fine particles of dirt may be found deposited on the various choke parts.

A heavy, black hard carbon deposit on the choke parts will indicate the possibility of a leak in the heater tube. Check tube in manifold and repair as required.

Examine all choke parts for wear or damage.

Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new, to insure proper operation of choke.

Do not attempt to separate thermostatic coil from heat retainer plate.

The thermostatic coil, heat, retainer plate and moulded housing are serviced as an assembly only. If the housing is cracked or broken, replace with a complete new assembly, as the index mark cut on the rim of housing is only correct for the one thermostatic coil originally installed.

To remove the thermostatic coil and heat retainer plate from the housing, hit coil housing

356—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

LOCATING NOTCH AND MATING LUG

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SECONDARY

THROTTLE VALVES

HOUSING

THERMOSTATIC COIL

AND HEAT

RETAINER PLATE

54x482

Fig. 38—Removing or Installing Coil in Housing sharply against palm of hand (coil side down).

Clean any dirt or dust that may be present from retainer plate and out of coil housing. Match the notch in plate with lug in the coil housing, as shown in Figure 38. Install plate and press until seated in housing.

17. INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY-

THROTTLE BODY

(1) Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.

(2) Install the new primary throttle shaft and lever (if needed) in the throttle body, as shown in Figure 33.

PRIMARY|

THROTTLE VALVES

54x528

Fig. 39—Installing Primary Throttle Valves r.'\

54x529

Fig. 40—Installing Secondary Throttle Valves

(3) The idle speed adjusting screw must be backed out when seating valves in the following operation. Slide the valves in position in the throttle shaft and insert the new screws but do not tighten.

(4) Hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 39. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.)

(5) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(6) Slide the secondary throttle shaft in the throttle body with tang on the lever pointing toward the fast idle cam boss (see Fig. 36).

(7) Center the secondary throttle shaft with the bores, and install the secondary throttle valves.

(8) Hold the valves in this position, and insert

"NEW" screws (large heads), but do not tighten.

(9) Hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 40. (Fingers pressing on the high side of the valves.)

(10) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten screw securely, as shown in Figure 40. Stake screws by squeezing with pliers.

(11) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(See Fig. 37). The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers.

Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws lightly against their seats, and back off one full turn for approximate adjustment.

(12) Slide the fast idle cam retaining screw through fast idle cam (with threaded shank of screw on spring side). (See

Fig. 31.)

(13) Slide the fast idle cam trip lever over shoulder on screw, guiding the tang between fast idle spring and cam.

(14) Insert pivot screw into boss and tighten securely. (Be sure tang on trip lever slides between the boss and lockout arm. See that all parts move freely.)

(15) Slide the velocity valve shaft and counterweight into the throttle body.

(16) Slide the velocity valves into position, then insert new screws but do not tighten.

(17) Hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 41. (Fingers pressing on high side of valves.)

(18) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat the valves in the bores.

(19) Holding the valves in this position, tighten

VELOCITY VALVES

COUNTERWEIGHT

VELOCITY

VALVE

LOCKOUT

ARM

Fig. 41—Installing Velocity Valves

154x484

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—357 i PRIMARY OPERATING LEVER

L O N G EAR

OF THROTTLE

SHAFT D O G

54x530

Fig. 42—Installing Primary Operating Lever and

Throttle Shaft Dog the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(20) Slide the primary operating lever over end of primary shaft with tangs facing away from throttle body.

(21) Slide throttle shaft dog over shaft and down against operating lever. The larger curved portion of the dog should be facing up, with the ears of the dog making an approximate 45° angle in relation to the base of the valve body when the valves are closed, as shown in Figure 42. Install washer and screw and tighten securely.

(22) Engage the throttle operating rod with the secondary throttle lever, and slide other end into hole in primary operating lever and install hairpin clip to secure.

(23) Place the main body upside down on bench, and install a new throttle body to main body gasket. Lower throttle body down on main body. (See Fig. 28.)

(24) Install screws and tighten securely.

The fuel level sight screws should be on the same side as the velocity valve counterweight when properly installed.

(25) Turn carburetor right side up on bench, and install the accelerator pump discharge check needle, as shown in Figure 43. Install the secondary and primary idle jets.

(See Figs. 26 and 27.) Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-58. Install the main jets

358—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

ACCELERATOR PUMP

DISCHARGE CHECK

NEEDLE

54x485

Fig. 43—Installing Accelerator Pump Discharge

Check Needle

(secondary) in the bottom of main body.

Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-58.

(See Fig. 25.) Install the main jets (primary) in the bottom of main body. Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-58. (See Fig.

24. (Install the vacuumeter piston spring in the piston well. (See Fig. 22.)

18. AIR HORN ASSEMBLY

(1) Place a new gasket over sleeve on rear of choke housing, and install housing in position on air horn.

(2) Install screws and tighten securely. Use long screw outside of housing and the 2 short screws inside the housing.

(3) Slide the choke piston pin through piston and choke piston link (See Fig. 20) and slide choke shaft assembly into air horn.

(4) Slide choke shaft into air horn far enough to allow choke piston to be aligned with center of cylinder.

(5) Slightly twist choke lever clockwise and allow piston to enter cylinder. (See Fig. 19.)

(6) Slide choke valve down into position (numbered side up) in air horn and start (NEW) screws.

(7) Holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with screwdriver to center and locate the valve. Tighten screws securely as shown in Figure 18. With the valve open, stake the screws with a pair of pliers.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

Do not lubricate any of the choke operating parts.

(8) Hold the air horn in an upright position and close the choke valve. The valve should open freely of its own weight.

(9) Install baffle plate and gasket in choke housing. (See Fig. 17.) Slide the choke housing ring clamp over the housing. Place the choke housing assembly with the index mark in a straight down position. (See

Fig. 17.)

(10) Holding the choke thermostatic coil and housing assembly in place, start the ring clamp screws. Slowly turn the assembly counter-clockwise until the index mark on the housing is in line with the index center mark (on air horn), as shown in Figure 4.

(11) Tighten the retaining ring clamp screws securely, being careful not to distort ring clamp.

(12) To secure the desired performance from the choke during starting and warm-up, index mark on the choke housing must always be in line with the center index line in the air horn.

(13) Invert the air horn and install both the primary and secondary needle valve seats and gaskets. (See Fig. 12.) Tighten securely. Be sure each needle is installed in its original seat.

(14) Invert air horn, then slide the accelerator pump shaft and lever into the air horn just far enough to allow the installation of the accelerator pump arm. (See Figs. 15 and 16.)

(15) Install accelerator pump arm with the lever portion facing away from pump shaft. (See Fig. 16.)

(16) Continue to slide pump shaft into air horn until shaft protrudes from support boss.

(17) Install the spacer and metering rod arm; the lifter portion must be aligned with the vacuumeter piston link slot in air horn casting. (See Fig. 15.)

(18) Install the fuel inlet filter screen, plug and

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL gasket. (See Fig. 14.) Tighten plug securely.

(19) Slide the vacuumeter piston link down into slot in air horn with the lifter lip facing away from pump shaft. Be sure the metering rod tension spring coil is centered in the hole at top of link. (As the link is being lowered, engage the lifter portion of arm in slot in link.) Snug down clamp screw.

(20) Slide the choke lever over end of choke shaft with lever pointing toward the accelerator pump shaft lever. (See Fig. 13.)

Snug down screw. (To be adjusted and positioned later.)

(21) Install the primary float needle valve in seat.

(22) Slide the primary float in position and install fulcrum pin. (See Fig. 10.) Check float setting as follows: Be sure each needle is installed in its original seat.

19. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENT

When making the float level adjustment, sure the air horn gasket is removed.

The primary and secondary floats are set at different heights, using two separate gauges.

Place the primary float level gauge Tool T-109-

222 (%6 r

0, in position, as shown in Figure 44.

Both floats should just clear the horizontal section in the gauge. Bend float arm as required to obtain correct setting.

FLOAT GAUGEx

PRIMARY FLOATS\

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—359

SECONDARY FLOATS

FLOAT GAUGE

FLOATS SHOULD JUST TOUCH

GAUGE AT THESE POINTS 54x487

Fig. 45—Checking Secondary Float Setting

With notch end of gauge fitting against the side of air horn casting, float arm should be bent for sideways adjustment until floats barely touch the vertical upright of float gauge. (See

Fig. 44.) Repeat steps for secondary floats, using secondary float level Tool T-109-220 (%« inch), as shown in Figure 45. It should be noted that the distance between the float and casting machined surface is %

inch for the primary and

for the secondary floats.

20. FLOAT DROP ADJUSTMENT

(1) After performing the float level adj ustment, hold the air horn assembly in an upright position and note the distance with which the floats drop, as shown in Figure 46. Both the primary and secondary floats should drop V2

m ch from gauge setting (plus or minus y

inch) when measured at center of float, as shown in Figure 46.

FLOATS SHOULD JUST TOUCH

GAUGE AT THESE POINTS

Fig. 44—Checking Primary Float Setting

54x486

/i6 INCH

SECONDARY

FLOAT SETTING

Vs INCH PRIMARY

FLOAT SETTING

Vi i Vi6 INCH DROP

Fig. 46—Float Drop Adjustment

5 3 x 9 5 6

360—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

(2) Adjust as necessary by removing

float and bending the small tang which contacts the float needle seat.

(3) Bend tang towards needle seat to lessen drop, or away from seat to increase drop.

(4) Invert air horn assembly and remove floats.

(5) Install a new air horn to main body gasket then reinstall the primary and secondary floats and the vaccumeter piston.

(6) Tilt piston approximately 90 degrees to either side. (For correct installation position on vaccumeter piston link. (See

Fig. 11.)

(7) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from jar of gasoline and flex the leather several times.

(8) Check to see if the leather on the accelerator pump is hard, cracked or worn. If any of the aforementioned conditions exist, install a new accelerator pump plunger.

21. ACCELERATOR PUMP TEST

Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl

(approximately Vi inch deep). Raise the plunger and press lightly on plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passages. Using a small, clean brass rod, hold discharge check needle firmly down on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage.

If any fuel does emit from the intake check ball, it should be recleaned and thoroughly blown out with compressed air. Fuel leakage at the discharge indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check needle. Clean again and install a new needle. Recheck for leakage. If either the intake check ball or discharge needle leaks after above test, attempt to reseat as follows:

22. INTAKE CHECK BALL

Remove retainer from bottom of accelerator pump cylinder. Insert a piece of drill rod down on check ball. Lightly tap with hammer to form new seat. Install a new check ball and retest as described above.

23. DISCHARGE CHECK NEEDLE

(1) Remove jet housing (if not removed), and insert drill rod down on needle. Lightly tap

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL drill rod to form a new seat. Discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described above. If the above instructions do not correct the condition, a new carburetor main body assembly must be installed.

(2) Install the accelerator pump jet housing gasket, and screw, as shown in Figure 23.

Tighten securely. Again as the plunger is being depressed, a clear straight stream should emit from each jet. If the streams are not identical, (if either one is diverted or restricted) a new accelerator jet housing pump should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove the accelerator pump plunger.

(3) Slide accelerator pump plunger spring over plunger shaft followed by the spring seats.

(Shoulder on seat toward spring.) With the spring compressed, slide the plunger end into plunger opening in air horn. With pressure on bottom of plunger, invert air horn and install accelerator pump connector link in the top hole in arm and plunger. (See

Fig. 13.) Install hairpin clip to secure.

(4) Before installing link, be sure the hole in the plunger shaft is parallel to the pump shaft. Install link with the hairpin clip groove end entering hole in pump arm.

(5) Lower the air horn assembly carefully down on the main body guiding the accelerator pump plunger into the well. (See Fig. 9.)

(6) Be sure the leather on the plunger does not curl or wrinkle. Accelerator pump operation will be affected if this precaution is not taken.

(7) Install the air horn attaching screws as follows: Insert the six 1*4 inch screws around the inside diameter of the air horn and tighten securely.

(8) Insert the remaining 1*4 inch screw in its hole in the metering rod chamber. Tighten securely.

(9) Insert the 1 inch screw in the thick boss at the corner of the air horn casting, between the automatic choke housing and fuel inlet port. Insert the remaining screws (% inch) around the outside of air horn, and tighten securely.

(10) Install metering rods being careful to engage in loops on metering rod spring.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(11) Slide end (45°) of throttle connector rod into pump shaft arm, and install hairpin clip.

(12) Position rod retaining clip over throttle shaft lever, and insert end of rod through clip into lever. (See Fig. 6.) Snap clip over rod to secure.

(13) Engage the keyed end of the choke connector rod with the slot in the choke lever, rotate rod and engage in hole in the cam trip lever. (See Fig. 5.) Install hairpin clip to secure.

(14) The carburetor now has been completely assembled with the exception of the metering rod cover. Be sure and make the adjustments to the carburetor in the following order.

24. ACCELERATOR PUMP ADJUSTMENT

Before making this adjustment, be sure that the pump connector link is installed in the outer hole (long stroke of the pump lever), with ends extending toward the accelerator pump shaft arm.

Back off the idle speed adjusting screw until primary throttle valves are fully seated in their bores. (Make sure that the fast idle adjusting screw is off the fast idle cam.) With the throttle valves seated, the distance from the top of the plunger shaft to the top of dust cover boss should be *%

inch, as shown in Figure 47.

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—361

FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW W ^ 54x489

Fig. 48—Bending Throttle Connector Rod

When making this adjustment, be sure that the fast idle adjusting screw does not hold the throttle open. To adjust the pump setting, bend the throttle connector rod at the upper angle using Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure 48.

25. OPTIONAL ACCELERATOR PUMP

ADJUSTMENT

Hold a straightedge across top of dust cover boss as shown in Figure 49, and adjust length of pump rod as in preceding adjustment until the flat on the top of the pump arm (under set screw) is parallel with upper edge of straightedge.

26. METERING ROD ADJUSTMENT

Loosen the set screw in the metering rod arm

(if previously tightened) enough to obtain a slight bind on the pump shaft. Lift lever slightly.

FLAT O N PUMP ARM—PARALLEL

^ W I T H EDGE OF STRAIGHTEDGE

INCH

54x488

Fig. 47—Checking Accelerator Pump Travel

THROTTLE VALVES IN CLOSED POSITION

Fig. 49—Accelerator Pump Adjustment (Optional)

362—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

METERING RODS BOTTOMED

THROTTLE VALVES

SEATED (CLOSED)

27/64 INCH

GAUGE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

VELOCITY VALVE

i S E C O

N D A R Y

OPERATING R O D -

IDISCONNECTED

^TANG

RESTING

54x491

Fig. 50—Metering Rod Adjustment

With the primary throttle valves seated in their bores, depress the metering rod link until metering rods bottom, as shown in Figure 50.

Keeping the lever in contact with the metering rod link, tighten the set screw securely.

27. CHOKE ROD ADJUSTMENT

Loosen the choke lever clamp screw. Insert a .020

inch wire gauge Tool T-109-29, between tang on the fast idle cam and boss on throttle body casting. Hold this gauge in place by pressure of screwdriver exerted on choke lever clamp screw, as shown in Figure 51. This will automatically take up all slack in the linkage.

STOP

54x531

Fig. 52—Checking Velocity Valve Clearance

Hold the choke valve tightly closed, and tighten clamp screw.

28. VELOCITY VALVE ADJUSTMENT

To check the position of the velocity valves, disconnect the secondary throttle operating rod from the primary operating lever by removing hairpin clip. Insert Gauge T-109-242 (

inch) between the lower edge of velocity valve and bore, as shown in Figure 52. In this position, the tang of secondary throttle lever should be resting against its stop.

To adjust position, bend tang on secondary throttle lever, using Tool T-109-41 until correct clearance of

%4 inch has been obtained, when

11/64 INCH GAUGE---V

CHOKE VALVE

HELD CLOSED

FAST IDLE

CAM TANG

.021 INCH WIRE GAUGE

54x492

Fig. 51—Choke Rod Adjustment

THROTTLE

VALVES HELD

WIDE OPEN

POSITION 54x532

Fig. 53—Choke Unloader Adjustment

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

UNLOADER TANG

TOOL

54x493

Fig. 54—Bending Unloader Tang the tang is resting against its stop. Reconnect secondary throttle operating rod to primary operating lever, and install hairpin clip.

29. CHOKE UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT

With the primary throttle valves held in the wide open position, insert

inch unloader gauge Tool T-109-166 or a No. 17 drill between upper edge of choke valve and inner dividing wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 53. With the finger pressing against the upper part of choke valve, slight drag should be felt on the gauge as it is being withdrawn.

If no drag is felt, or if too much drag is apparent, bend the unloader tang on the throttle lever, as shown in Figure 54, using Tool T-109-41.

FAST IDLE SCREW ON

HIGH STEP OF CAM

.012 INCH

WIRE GAUGE

Fig. 55—Fast Idle Adjustment

54x494

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—363

30. FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

(On Work Bench)

Insert a .006 to .010 inch wire gauge, Tool T-109-

200 or drill between the primary throttle valves and side of bore opposite idle adjusting screws.

Move the choke valve to the fully closed position, and adjust the fast idle screw to give a slight drag on the wire when the screw is resting on the high step of the fast idle cam, as shown in

Figure 55.

31. FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

(Carburetor on Engine)

(1) Before setting fast idle, engine should be fully warmed and running at 600 to 650 rpm.

(2) Remove the air cleaner.

(3) Remove hairpin clips from the choke connector rods.

(4) Stop the engine and open throttles halfway.

Close both choke blades fully, while holding throttles open.

(5) Let the throttle close making certain fast idle adjusting screws contact highest step of fast idle cams.

(6) Remove the lower ends of choke connector rods from the fast idle cams and let choke blades go fully open.

(7) Start the engine without touching the throttle and check the engine rpm. Adjust the fast idle adjusting screws until the desired

1400 rpm has been obtained.

(8) If the engine fast idle speed is not already

1400 rpm with the engine running hot, it will be necessary to proceed as follows:

(9) Open throttles until fast idle adjusting screws can be reached easily with a screwdriver.

(10) Turn screws in or out and repeat steps 4 through 7 until desired fast idle speed is obtained.

(11) Install the choke connector rods, hairpin clips, and the air cleaner.

32. VELOCITY VALVE LOCKOUT

ADJUSTMENT

Make this adjustment after completing the fast

364—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

CHOKE VALVE CLOSED

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHOKE VALVE

(NOT QUITE

WIDE OPEN)

MAXIMUM CONTACT

54x533

Fig. 56—Velocity Valve Lockout Adjustment—

Maximum idle adjustment. With the choke valve in the closed position, the edge of the hook on the lockout arm should contact the velocity valve shaft lever, making a maximum contact of the locking step on the lever, as shown in Figure 56.

Bend lockout arm until desired contact has been obtained. Slowly open the choke valve. The velocity valves should become unlocked a few degrees before the choke valve reaches the wide open position, as shown in Figure 57. Bend the tang on the fast idle cam (that raises or lowers the lockout arm) until correct release has been obtained.

Idle speed and mixture adjustment must be performed after installation of the carburetor on the engine.

After adjustments have been checked and corrected, install the metering rod dust cover and gasket. Install screws and tighten securely.

33. INSTALLATION OF CARBURETORS

ON ENGINE

(1) Place new carburetor to manifold gaskets of the proper size on the intake manifold, and install the carburetors.

(2) Install the dashpot and bracket assembly under the left front attaching nut in front of the carburetor.

(3) Before tightening the attaching nuts, start the fuel lines and vacuum spark line. This

54x495 A

,EDGE OF HOOK SHOULD

V) JUST CLEAR ARM

Fig. 57—Velocity Valve Lockout Adjustment—

Minimum will prevent a possibility of stripping the threads on these connections. Complete tightening of the manifold stud nuts, fuel and spark control.

(4) Attach the heat tubes to the integral choke housings and tighten the air cleaner and gasket.

(5) Adjust the carburetor.

34. IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE

ADIUSTMENTS

Connect a tachometer to the engine and set the hand brake securely. Place the transmission in neutral. Start and warm the engine to normal operating temperature, making sure that the choke is fully off and that the carburetor is on the slow idle. Set the engine at 600 to 650 rpm, adjusting both idle screws until a smooth engine idle is obtained.

In order to synchronize both carburetors, remove the throttle control rod and throttle connector rod. Install the connector rod studs and return springs. Starting with the closed throttle valves, open each an equal amount. Open all four mixture screws one turn. Start engine and adjust speed and mixture as necessary to obtain an idle speed of 600 to 650 rpm. Install connector rod, adjusting length so there is slight end play, and no binding with both carburetors at idle.

Attach the throttle control rod, making sure it is adjusted, so that the carburetor position is not disturbed.

WASHER

NUT

BRACKET,

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALV

V WASHER

CLAMP

GASKET

EXHAUST PIPE

Fig. 1—Exhaust System—Disassembled View (Single Rocker Shaft Engine)

CLAMP

NUT

55x121

366—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

3

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—367

EXHAUST SYSTEM

1. DESCRIPTION

The C-67 Model (single rocker shaft engine) exhaust system consists of the exhaust and intake manifolds, heat control valve, cross-over pipe,

"Y" exhaust pipe, exhaust extension pipe, muffler, and tail pipe, as shown in Figure 1.

The exhaust system of the C-68, C-69 and

C-70 Models (double rocker shaft engine) is a dual exhaust system which consists of exhaust and intake manifolds, heat control valve, 2 exhaust pipes, 2 mufflers and 2 tail pipes, as shown in Figure 2.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

2. INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

(All Models)

Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 show the intake manifold and cross-over passages, illustrating the flow of exhaust gases through the intake manifold. This action tends to warm the intake risers, which helps to vaporize the fuel-air mixture in the intake manifold.

CARBURETOR

MOUNTING FLANGE a. Removal of the Intake Manifold

(1) Remove air cleaner.

(2) Drain radiator.

(3) Remove generator.

(4) Disconnect carburetor linkage.

(5) Disconnect vacuum line at manifold (if so equipped).

(6) Disconnect distributor vacuum advance line and fuel line at carburetor.

INTAKE R I S E R S

PATH FOLLOWED BY

EXHAUST

GASES

S 2 » « 1 9 B

EXHAUST GAS CROSSOVER

PASSAGE

Fig. 3—Intake Manifold (Single Rocker Shaft Engine)

Fig. 4—Exhaust Cross-over Passage Through Intake

Manifold (Single Rocker Shaft Engine)

368—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PRIMARY INTAKE RISERS

55x728

Fig. 5—Intake Manifold (Double Rocker Shaft Engine) ig. 6—Exhaust Cross-over Passage Through Intake

Manifold (Double Rocker Shaft Engine)

(7) Disconnect automatic choke heat tube at carburetor.

(8) Disconnect wires at coil.

NOTE

If car is equipped with air conditioning remove bracket from intake manifold to compressor.

(9) Remove bolts holding intake manifold to cylinder head.

NOTE

If car is equipped with air conditioning lift off fast idle mechanism and carefully place it out of tvay.

(10) Remove intake manifold.

NOTE

Carburetor and coil may be removed more conveniently on bench, if manifold is to be inspected or replaced.

b. Removal of Left Side Exhaust Manifold

(1) Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold flange.

(2) Remove and discard gasket.

(3) Remove the exhaust manifold retaining nuts, then slide manifold off studs and out and away from cylinder head.

CAUTION

Use care when removing the manifold attaching nuts and bolts, because the constant heating and cooling of the manifolds may have caused them to freeze. Lubricate with a good grade of penetrating oil and allow to stand for several minutes before attempting removal.

c. Removal of Right Side Exhaust Manifold

(1) Remove automatic integral choke heat tube from exhaust manifold. (Be careful not to bend tube when removing.)

(2) Remove the bolts and nuts that hold the manifold heat control valve and the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold flange. Lift off the heat control valve and gaskets. Discard gaskets.

(3) Remove the oil filter cover and element.

(4) Remove bolt and clamp that hold ground cable and heat tube to cylinder head.)

(5) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head, then slide manifold off studs and away from cylinder head.

NOTE

On all "after" cars the exhaust pipe to transmission clamp and bracket have been eliminated so be sure the exhaust pipe is sufficiently supported before removing exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.

3. INSPECTION OF INTAKE AND EXHAUST

MANIFOLDS (All Models)

Clean the intake and exhaust manifolds in a suitable solvent; blow dry with compressed air.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Inspect manifolds for cracks, distortion, or any other condition which would make the manifolds unfit for further service.

Particular attention should be given to the

"hot spot" chamber in the intake manifold. If the chamber is coated with hard black carbon, it must be scraped or sand blasted to remove the deposit. The layers of carbon act as an insulator and retard the heating action of the exhaust gases on the "hot spot" chamber which, in turn, affects the vaporization rate of the fuel passing through the intake manifold.

When inspecting the exhaust manifolds, be sure to check the choke heat tube cavity and the cavity inlet passage. The passage and cavity must be clean and free from any obstructions.

(See Fig. 7.)

New gaskets should be used when installing the exhaust and intake manifolds and all mating surfaces must be clean and smooth.

4. EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS AND

TAIL PIPES

The exhaust system normally requires little service. The system should be checked periodically for leaking gaskets, broken supports or insulators and burned or blown out muffler or pipes.

The exhaust pipe, muffler, and tail pipe are mounted by clamps which are insulated to eliminate vibration.

The exhaust pipes are bolted to the exhaust manifold flanges, and supported at the transmission by an insulated bracket and clamp. This

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

LEFT SIDE

AUTOMATIC CHOKE

HEAT TUBE

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

RIGHT SIDE

55x703

Fig. 7—Exhaust Manifolds

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—369 bracket and clamp has been eliminated on all

"after" cars.

A support, with a special insulator and clamp, supports the tail pipe at the rear of the muffler, while another clamp and support mounted on the rear of the frame supports the rear of the tail pipe. The front support is adjustable.

5. EXHAUST SYSTEM (C-67 MODEL)

When servicing the exhaust system, it is rather difficult to remove clamps and disconnect pipes because of the rust, dirt, or other foreign matter which has adhered to these parts. Lubricate the nuts and bolts, which are to be removed, with a good grade of penetrating oil and wait several minutes before attempting removal. Hit the connecting clamps several sharp blows with a soft hammer if clamps are rusted to the pipes.

The production muffler and exhaust pipe are welded as an assembly.

NOTE

When installing a replacement muffler, it is necessary to remove exhaust pipe. Replacement mufflers are attached with a connecting clamp and a short extension permitting the old muffler to be cut from the exhaust pipe.

6. REMOVAL

Refer to Figure 1 and proceed as follows: a. Cross-over Exhaust Pipe

(1) Remove clamp bolt from clamp at the "Y" pipe and cross-over pipe connection.

(2) Remove bolts from left-hand exhaust manifold flange. Discard gasket. Remove crossover pipe.

b. "Y" Exhaust Pipe

(1) Remove clamp bolt from clamp connecting

"Y" pipe and exhaust pipe.

(2) Remove bolts from right-hand exhaust manifold flanges.

(3) Remove manifold heat control valve. Discard gasket.

NOTE

On all "after" cars be sure that the exhaust system is sufficiently supported.

370—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

(4) Remove "Y" pipe.

c. Exhaust Extension Pipe and Muffler

(1) Remove clamp bolt from bracket attached to transmission.

(2) Loosen or remove clamp bolts at muffler-totail pipe connection.

(3) Remove muffler and exhaust extension pipe.

NOTE

If only the muffler is to be replaced, cut exhaust extension pipe at muffler ivith hack saiv. It is unnecessary to remove exhaust pipe.

d. Tail Pipe

(1) Remove clamp bolt from front tail pipe bracket.

(2) Remove clamp bolt from rear tail pipe bracket.

(3) Jack up frame to relieve body weight from rear springs, then remove tail pipe.

NOTE

In most instances where clamps are used, they will have to be spread before pipes can be removed.

7. INSTALLATION

When installing components of the exhaust system start at the exhaust manifolds and work toward the rear until muffler is to be installed.

Position the tail pipe, then install muffler.

NOTE

If the exhaust pipe has been cut for replacement of muffler, remove the burrs left by hack saiv before installing muffler.

If the entire exhaust system, or any component of it is being replaced, clamps and brackets should be tightened only to the extent necessary to hold the exhaust system in position. The final tightening is done after the system has been properly aligned.

8. DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM

(C-68, C-69 and C-70 Models)

The dual exhaust system is standard equipment on the C-68, C-69, and C-70 Models.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

52x391

Fig. 8—Tail Pipe-to-Muffler Connection Clamp

The service procedure for the dual exhaust system (removal, installation and alignment) will be comparable to the exhaust system for the

C-67 Model with the following exceptions.

In the dual exhaust system, the cross-over and "Y" exhaust pipes are not used; there is an individual exhaust pipe, muffler, and tail pipe for each cylinder bank. Refer to Figure 2.

9. ALIGNMENT OF EXHAUST SYSTEMS

Figures 1, 2,8, 9,10 and 11 illustrate the various types of supports, insulators and clamps with the procedures as follows:

(1) Tighten the exhaust manifold flange bolts and nuts evenly, to a torque of 40 footpounds.

(2) Install muffler and tail pipes and leave the

Fig. 9—Exhaust Pipe-to-Transmission Clamp and Bracket

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—371

54x683

Fig. 10—Tail Pipe Front Support, Bracket and Clamp clamp bolts loose in order to align the entire system.

(3) Check the muffler and tail pipes so that a clearance of V2

m c h is maintained between

54x684

Fig. 11—Tail Pipe Rear Support and Clamp the frame, floor pan, bumper, shock absorber and the fuel tank.

(4) Tighten all the clamp bolts and brackets to a torque of 20 foot-pounds.

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

10. DESCRIPTION

The manifold heat control valve, as shown in

Figure 12, is controlled by a thermostatic coil spring, a counterweight, and the velocity of the exhaust gas through the exhaust manifold. The thermostatic coil spring is installed in a manner which will maintain sufficent tension on the valve shaft to keep the valve in the closed position when the engine is cold.

In the closed position, hot gases circulate up and around the "hot spot" chamber in the intake manifold. This, in turn, preheats the vaporized fuel passing down through the intake manifold, resulting in smooth engine performance.

NOTE

Should the heat control valve become stuck in

COUNTERWEIGHT

WASHER

NUT

RETAINERS

54x681

PIN-

SPRING-

Fig. 12—Typical Manifold Heat Control Valve

—Disassembled View

372—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS

HEAT CONTROL VALVE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COUNTERWEIGHT-

THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

THERMOSTATIC

V COIL SPRING 52x516A

Fig. 13—Installing Thermostatic Coil Spring either the open or closed position car performance would be affected.

11. TESTING MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL

VALVE (On Engine)

Inspect the operation of the heat control valve periodically. With the engine idling (car standing) accelerate to wide open throttle and release quickly. The counterweight should respond by moving clockwise approximately Vs> inch and returning to its normal position. If no movement is observed, the valve shaft may be frozen or the coil spring is weak or broken. In either case, the heat control valve should be disassembled and repaired.

a. Disassembly

Refer to Figure 12 and proceed as follows:

(1) Loosen retaining nut and remove counterweight, lock and stop from end of shaft exposing the thermostatic coil spring.

HEAT CONTROL VALVE

LOCK

SHAFT

VALVE

HOUSING

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING ^ l ^ m r 54x686A

Fig. 15—Installing Heat Control Valve Counterweight

(2) Unhook the coil spring from pin and remove by prying out of valve shaft slot.

(3) If valve shaft is frozen in manifold, lubricate both ends with a good grade of penetrating oil and allow to stand several minutes.

Loosen by turning shaft clockwise or counter-clockwise (depending on frozen position) until shaft is free. Work shaft from closed to open position several times until shaft can be turned very easily with the fingers.

b. Assembly

NOTE

Before installing the heat control valve on the

TOOL

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

VALVE SHAFT

THERMOSTATIC

COIL SPRING

DIRECTION OF WRAP 54x685A

Fig. 14—Positioning Thermostatic Coil Spring

54x687

Fig. 16—Tightening Counterweight Bolt with

Tool T-109-173

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL engine, lubricate the valve shaft with graphite paste.

(1) Position the valve shaft in the extreme counter-clockwise position. Place new coil spring in position over shaft slot, with outer end tongue of spring in the upper left-hand position, as shown in Figure 13. Press the inner end of the coil into slot of the shaft and seat firmly.

(2) Move outer end tongue of spring around and

FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS—373 hook under pin, as shown in Figure 14.

(3) Place counterweight over shaft (with the shield in upward position) and insert lock in shaft slot, as shown in Figure 15.

(4) Center counterweight on shaft and turn assembly clockwise until stop passes the pin.

(5) Press counterweight on shaft until seated, install stop, and tighten nut securely with

Tool T-109-173, as shown in Figure 16. Test valve for proper operation.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

12. EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE

Possible Causes: a. Burned or blown out muffler.

b. Exhaust manifold cracked or broken.

c. Blown gasket between exhaust manifold and cylinder block.

d. Blown gasket between exhaust pipe and manifold outlet flange.

e. Improper register between manifold and cylinder block.

f. Burned, broken, or cracked exhaust pipe.

g. Leaks at pipe joints.

Remedies: a. Install new muffler, check complete exhaust system for signs of failure, repair as required.

b. Install new manifold. Be sure manifold registers evenly with cylinder block before tightening nuts and bolts.

c. Install new gaskets as required after checking manifold for distortion. Be sure manifold registers evenly with cylinder block. Tighten nuts to 25 foot-pounds torque.

d. Install new gasket after checking flange for cracks or foreign material that will not allow gasket to seat properly. Tighten bolts evenly.

e. Remove manifold and check mating surfaces. Place manifold on smooth surface and check mating flanges for alignment. If manifold shows sign of distortion (more than .004 inch), install new manifold and gaskets.

f. Replace exhaust pipe.

g. Tighten clamps or replace as necessary.

13. LEAKING EXHAUST GASES

Possible Causes: a. Cracked exhaust manifold.

b. Loose exhaust pipe connection.

c. Burned or blown out muffler or exhaust pipes.

d. Loose manifold mounting nuts.

e. Distortion or misalignment at gasket surfaces.

f. Damaged or improperly installed gaskets.

g. Restrictions in muffler or tail pipe.

h. Loose tail pipe connection.

Remedies: a. Install new manifold and gaskets.

b. Install new gasket and tighten connections securely. Check complete system for alignment

374—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL and adjust as required. A leaking connection will be indicated by black streaks along pipes.

c. Install new muffler and tail pipes if needed.

Check alignment of exhaust pipes, muffler and tail pipe. Align as necessary.

d. If necessary, install new manifold gaskets.

Tighten nuts to 25 foot-pounds torque.

e. Remove manifold and check alignment of both intake and exhaust manifold mounting flanges. If misaligned, loosen bolts holding intake to exhaust manifold and install assembly.

15. ENGINE WILL NOT RETURN TO IDLE

Possible Cause:

Heat control valve frozen in the open position so that the heat tube does not become heated. As a result, the integral choke will hold the throttle on the high idle cam.

Remedy:

Remove the manifold heat control valve and check operation of the unit. Make necessary repairs.

f. Remove manifold and install new gaskets, after carefully inspecting both cylinder block and manifold mating surfaces. Tighten manifold nuts and bolts evenly, working from center to outer ends of manifold.

g. Check for bent or pinched exhaust or tail pipes. Such conditions will retard the flow of exhaust gases. Install new parts as required. If excessive amount of carbon is present or if car is sluggish, install new muffler.

16. MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

RATTLE

Possible Causes: a. Broken thermostatic spring.

b. Weak or broken anti-rattle spring.

c. Heat control valve shaft loose in body.

h. Tighten clamp at rear muffler connection. Remedies:

14. ENGINE HARD TO WARM UP

Possible Cause: a. Check for broken thermostatic spring and make necessary correction.

Heat control valve frozen in the open position.

Remedy: b. Check for weak or broken anti-rattle spring and make necessary repairs or replacement.

Check operation of heat control valve and make necessary repairs.

c. Check shaft for looseness in body and correct condition as necessary.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS—375

FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Models

TYPE

DIMENSIONS

FRAME

C-67 C-68 C-69 C-70

Welded, Double-Channel Box Section, Side Rails

C-300

See Figures 1,2, 3 and 4

TYPE

NO. OF LEAVES

SEDANS

STATION WAGON

WIDTH

LENGTH

SHACKLE

HANGER

REAR SPRINGS

Semi-Elliptic

5 6 6 7

7 7 — —

2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

55" 55" 55" 55"

Silent Block Rubber Bushings

Side Strapped With Rubber Bushed Bolts

—

2.5

55"

TYPE

SHOCK ABSORBERS

Oriflow, Double Acting, Hydraulic

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

REAR SPRING SILENT BLOCK NUT

UPPER

SHOCK ABSORBER STUD NUT i/

" LOWER

REAR SPRING U-CLIP BOLT NUTS

REAR SPRING SHACKLE NUTS %

SWAY BAR BRACKET TO FRAME BOLTS

SWAY BAR SHAFT RETAINER TO CONTROL ARM BOLT NUT

C-3413

Foot-Pounds

. . . 70

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

.Remover and Installer—Shock Absorber Lower Mounting Assembly

376—FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

4 8 %

GAUGE

HOLE

7% 1

NOTE

DIMENSIONS ARE SHOWN AS INCHES

AND ARE PLUS OR MINUS K6 UNLESS

OTHERWISE NOTED

TOP OF FRAME LINE

GAUGE HOLE IN EACH

SIDE OF FRAME

TOP OF FRAME LINE

55x37

Fig. 1 — Frame Dimensions (Windsor and New Yorker)

trr, "OX-IE

4 1 %

47/s 29^6 52V

30V

42ff

58 48^6

NOTE

DIMENSIONS ARE SHOWN AS INCHES

AND ARE PLUS OR MINUS K

UNLESS

OTHERWISE NOTED

TOP OF FRAME LINE

GAUGE HOLE IN EACH \

SIDE OF FRAME 7"

55x38

Fig. 2 — Frame Dimensions (Custom Imperial)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS—377

Section IX

FRAME, SPRINGS AND

SHOCK ABSORBERS

FRAME

1. DESCRIPTION

Double channel box type frames are used on all

1955 Chrysler Models. The frames are rigidly reinforced with lap welled crossmembers. The rear engine support is removable and of the open channel design with double flange instead of single.

If the frame becomes misaligned due to a collision, stresses may result which may affect the normal operation of rear axle, body, front suspension and other chassis units. A misaligned frame can cause body and door opening misalignment. Any attempt to cold-straighten a severely bent frame may cause rupture of the welds (if any) and may also cause the bent portions to crack. If heat is required to straighten a frame member, do not heat the member to more than a dull red color. Strength and frame hardness may be reduced if excess heat is applied to the frame during straightening processes.

After a bent frame has been straightened, inspect it closely for cracks or strains. If any defects are apparent the frame should either be reinforced or replaced.

If a damaged or cracked frame is to be reinforced, the crack should be prepared to insure a good weld. To prevent the crack from spreading, it is advisable to drill a VH inch hole at the root of the crack. Grind or enlarge the crack so as to insure weld penetration to the surface of the reinforcement.

58M

47'f<6 4 1 % 55VA

NOTE

DIMENSIONS ARE SHOWN AS INCHES

AND ARE PLUS OR MINUS X6 UNLESS

OTHERWISE NOTED

/64iH

TOP OF FRAME LINE

GAUGE HOLE IN EACH

SIDE OF FRAME

TT TT

217H

Fig. 3—Frame Dimensions (Crown Imperial)

5 5 x 3 9

378—FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

2. CHECKING FRAME ALIGNMENT

The diagrams shown in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 will greatly assist in checking the alignment of a car frame that has been distorted by collision or otherwise. In case of collision, frame members can often be satisfactorily straightened to the required limits. Since the front crossmember, brace and upper control arm support are made to unusually close limits, necessary for proper front wheel alignment, straightening of these units may not be successful. It is possible that ordinary straightening methods will suffice for minor damage. In case of serious damage or fracture, however, the entire front suspension crossmember, brace and support must be replaced. Before the member is replaced, it is essential that the frame alignment be checked and corrected if necessary. Whenever possible, the parts should be securely fastened with hot rivets. In cases where no riveting equipment is available, finished bolts snugly fitted in reamed holes may be used. The nuts should be securely tightened and non-spreading lockwashers used.

(Cold rivets are not recommended unless adequate power press equipment is available to do a secure riveting job.)

When welding frame members, care must be taken to localize the heat so that the steel hardness of frame will be retained. Reinforcement welds should run lengthwise, along the side of the reinforcement.

Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 show the various dimensions to be used as a guide for checking frame alignment. These dimensions are the true distance between the two points as measured with a steel tape.

Figure 4 shows a few of the various measurements that may be taken to check the "squareness" of the frame. Diagonal measure will quickly determine which section of the frame is bent and where force should be applied to restore correct alignment.

3. FRAME ALIGNMENT

To properly check a frame for alignment, diagonal measurement should be performed with great care. When the body is removed, the frame may be easily checked for alignment by measuring diagonals, as shown in Figure 4, with trammels or steel tape and checking dimensions given in Figure 1, 2 and 3. Measurements may be taken without removing the body from the chassis by using a plumb-bob and chalk line on a level floor.

Attach the line of a plumb-bob to the center of one of the rear body bolts. The plumb-bob should be suspended slightly above the floor.

When the plumb-bob comes to rest, mark the floor directly underneath it.

The marks made on the floor will represent various points of the frame to be checked diagonally. Move the car away so that the distance can be measured to compare with the diagonal measurements, shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.

4. REPLACING BODY SUPPORT BRACKETS

(1) The body support brackets are welded to the frame in manufacturing. Due to the

"Box" construction of the frame, rivets cannot be used to attach a new body bracket to the frame.

Fig. 4—Typical Frame Diagonal Measurements

55x40

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS—379

(2) Cut the damaged bracket off the frame, file surface smooth. Clamp the new bracket in the correct position and weld securely to the frame member.

(3) The shielded arc-weld method is recommended for frame welding, or the replacement of body frame support brackets. The heat generated from the welding operation is localized and burning of material is held to a minimum when a mild steel welding rod is used.

(4) Install the body bolt and washers, insulator and nut. Tighten to 18 foot-pounds torque.

On Convertibles, install a solid spacer, bolt and nut, and tighten securely.

SPRINGS

5. DESCRIPTION

The rear springs used on Chrysler cars are of the semi-elliptical design. The front ends of the rear springs are mounted to removable hangers which are bolted to brackets welded to the outer surface of the frame side rails. (See Fig. 5.)

The spring front pivot bolts are cushioned in rubber which tends to help reduce noise and allows increased riding comfort through a reduction in torque and brake reaction shock. (No lubrication is required at this point.)

The rear ends of the springs are attached to the frame through the medium of flat plate shackles, rubber shackle bushings, shackle bolts

SPRING ASSEMBLY

Fig. 5—Rear Spring Front Mounting

56x53 and nuts. (See Fig. 6.) Thus, the suspension of the rear springs in rubber, tends to reduce road noise to a minimum. (No lubrication is required at the rear shackles.)

The width of the spring leaves are 2*/> inches

(refer to Data and Specifications). Thus, with outboard-mounted rear springs, rear-end roll is greatly reduced and car stability on curves or sharp turns is maintained.

Should it become necessary to install new springs or silent blocks, it will be necessary to remove the four bolts, nuts and lockwashers that hold the spring hanger to the frame bracket.

The pivot bolts cannot be removed unless this is done.

6. SPRING MAINTENANCE

It is important that spring "U" bolts be inspected at regular intervals and kept tight to prevent spring breakage. Tighten spring "U" bolt nuts to 70 foot-pounds torque. The spring shackles should be inspected occasionally to make sure they are tight, but not binding. Tighten to 50 foot-pounds torque. No lubrication of any kind must be used on rubber bushings.

Front spring heights may be affected if the rear spring height varies more than % inch on one side as compared with the other side. To check this, measure the vertical distance from the top of the rear spring main leaf to the underside of the frame side rail on both sides of the

3S0—FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

"8 no

_o a.

X t o i.

3 o

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS—381 car. If these distances differ by more than % inch, this is an indication that one of the rear springs should be replaced. This condition could be due to a bent frame kick-up or an incorrectly welded spring saddle.

7. REPLACEMENT OF REAR SPRING

INTERUNERS

The 1955 Chrysler rear springs are similar to those previously used with the exception of the rear spring interliners. To replace the interliners, proceed as follows: a. Removal

(1) Unload the rear springs by jacking up the rear end of the frame until the rear shock absorbers are fully extended.

(2) Remove the alignment clips from the springs. If any of the removed parts (nut, bolt, spacer, clip) are damaged, use corresponding replacement parts.

(3) Examine the spring interliners. If any of them are missing, or if any of them have lost their metal fasteners, they must be replaced. For replacement of these interliners, proceed as outlined below.

(4) Pry out the metal fasteners directly beneath the spring leaf surface and slip out the old interliner, after separating the spring leaf to which the interliner was fastened from the next longer spring leaf. To effect this separation, pry open the slight

Fig. 8—Positioning New Interliners gap between the leaves with a screwdriver until a tapered bar can be hammered in place between the screwdriver and the interliner as shown in Figure 7. Keep the tapered bar in place.

(5) Clean the lower (grooved) surface of the longer spring leaf as far as the interliner makes contact. Use sandpaper wrapped around a flat file and scrub vigorously to remove any dirt or rust spots and to obtain smooth metallic surfaces to the left and right of the groove. Wipe off excess particles, including dirt in the groove itself, with a clean cloth. In order to reach between the leaves, open the gap by bearing down on the end of the tapered bar.

Fig. 7—Separating Spring Leaf Fig. 9—Prying Interliner Fastener Through Leaf

382—FRAME SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 10—Positioning Wrap-Around Aligning Clip b. Installation of Interliner

(1) Slip the new interliner in place by opening the gap between the spring leaves again with the tapered bar and moving the interliner until the prongs of the metal fasteners are aligned with the holes in the shorter leaf, as shown in Figure 8.

(2) With the tapered bar still in place, pry the prong end of each metal fastener through the hole in the spring leaf, as shown in

Figure 9.

(3) Remove the tapered bar which has remained between the leaves during these operations. The bar may be withdrawn

Fig. 11—Tightening Aligning Clip while a screwdriver is placed alongside.

Then the screwdriver may be pulled out, reversing the operation which was used to insert the bar in position. A faster method for withdrawing the bar is to insert the end of a bar with a short tapered hook alongside the tapered bar. After the tapered bar has been withdrawn, the bar with the hook can be slipped out easily using leverage motion inward on the far end of the hooked bar.

(4) Position the wrap-around alignment clip and tighten retainer nut, as shown in Figures 10 and 11. Peen the end of the bolt over the nut so it will not loosen.

SHOCK ABSORBER

a. DESCRIPTION

Chrysler cars are equipped with double acting

Oriflow shock absorbers as shown inr Figures 12 and 13. Oriflow shock absorbers cannot be disassembled for servicing. If test reveals the shock absorber is not functioning properly, it must be replaced as a complete unit.

The shock absorber is a device which provides control of the spring's movement and dissipates the majority of the energy, which would otherwise be stored in the springs, resulting in passenger discomfort and lack of stability.

The shock absorber converts the energy of the spring into friction when the fluid in the

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS—383

FLATS O N RO

STEEL SLEEVE

INSULATOR

BUSHING

M O U N T I N G BRACKET

A N D INSULATOR

ASSEMBLY

SHOCK ABSORBER

ASSEMBLY

When road testing, drive the car over a fairly rought road first to test the resistance under fast shock absorber piston speed. Then drive over a fairly smooth road to test the resistance during slower shock absorber piston speeds.

Hand testing Oriflow shock absorbers will only reveal complete failure. The amount of ride control evident from a hand test on the bench is small, compared with the control exerted under actual riding conditions. For this reason, it is impossible to feel any sudden resistance in an Oriflow shock absorber, no matter how fast it is operated by hand.

Fig. 12—Front Shock Absorber

54x619 shock absorber is forced to escape through the restricted passages, causing the spring to return to its normal position without shock to the body.

9. OPERATION

In the Oriflow shock absorber, the resistance is built up slowly at the beginning of the stroke so as not to jolt the passengers. This resistance is increased to a maximum at a mid stroke and is tapered off to zero at the end of the movement.

The major part of the dampening is accomplished at the high velocity mid-portion of the stroke where no jolt can originate. There can be little jolt at the beginning and at the end of the stroke because both the velocities of movement and the resistance offered by the shock absorber are low at those points. Mounting the shock absorbers within the coil spring allows for softer dampening action and more complete front-end control.

10. TESTING ORIFLOW SHOCK ABSORBERS

Oriflow shock absorbers are designed to operate with low resistance when operated slowly and with high resistance when operated rapidly.

Since they operate with little resistance when compressed by hand or by bench test methods, their true operating efficiency can be determined best by a road test. It is impossible to determine the operating efficiency of Oriflow shock absorbers by rocking the car by the bumper.

11. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER

a. Removal

Refer to Figure 14 and then proceed as follows:

(1) Raise the hood and remove dirt or grease from around the shock absorber upper mounting area.

(2) Slide a *4 inch wrench over the flats on the top of shock absorber piston rod, to keep rod from turning. Now, remove nut and cup washer.

(3) Remove the two lower mounting bolts, then withdraw shock absorber through opening in the bottom of spring seat. The lower cup washer may remain in place or drop through when shock absorber is removed.

(4) Using a suitable drift, force the inner steel sleeve out of bushing, then remove bushing from frame opening. Check bushing for deterioration or fatigue. Install new bushing.

(5) Before installing new bushing, dip bushing in soapy water, then insert in position in frame, using a twisting motion. When in-

stalled properly, the groove in bushing will index with frame.

(6) Now force steel sleeve through opening in bushing and down into position.

(7) Remove the mounting bracket from the shock absorber eye using Tool C-3413. Press mounting bracket and bushing out of eye.

The mounting bracket and bushing are serviced as an assembly only.

384—FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON ROD

OIL SEAL CAP

PISTON ROD

OIL SEAL

OIL SEAL SPRING

SEAL RETAINER

OIL SEAL GASKET

ROD GUIDE

DUST SHIELD

COMPRESSION RELIEF

VALVE

PISTON NUT

CYLINDER TUBE

CHECK VALVE

PISTON

RESERVOIR TUBE

CHECK VALVE

SPRING

CHECK VALVE SEAT

RING AND CUP ASSEMBLY

Fig. 13—Rear Shock Absorber (Sectional View)

54X&4

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAME, SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS—385

UPPER

MOUNTING SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY

LOWER MOUNTING

ASSEMBLY

SCREW

•LOCK WASHER 55P1014

Fig. 14—Front Shock Absorber Installed b. Installation

To install a new mounting bracket and bushing, refer to Figure 14 and proceed as follows:

(1) Position the new mounting bracket so that the mounting holes are at a right angle to the shock absorber. Using Tool

C-3413, press mounting bracket into eye until centered. CAUTION: Always press against steel sleeve to avoid damage to the assembly.

(2) Extend the shock absorber piston rod to its full travel, and slide lower cup washer

(concave side up) over rod and down into position.

(3) Slide shock absorber up through opening in spring seat (be sure the extended piston rod enters steel sleeve through upper bushing) , and up into position. Install retaining

Fig. 15—Rear Shock Absorber Installed bolts and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Slide cup washer (concave side down) over piston rod and down on bushing. Install nut, and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque, or until the upper and lower concave washers bottom against steel sleeve.

12. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS (Fig. 15)

To remove a shock absorber, remove nuts from pins which pass through eyes at top and bottom of shock absorber. Slide unit off pins.

When installing a shock absorber, first install the bushings in the shock absorber's eyes. Install the inner bushing retainers, the shock absorber and bushing assembly and the outer retainers.

The concave face of each retainer must fit against the convex face of the adjacent bushing.

386—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

MANUAL STEERING

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

MODELS C-67, C-68, C-69, C-70

King Pin Diameter

King Pin Bushings (Manual Steering) Type

Upper

Lower

King Pin Bushings (Power Steering) Type

Upper

Lower

Dimensions of Lower Bushings

Inside Diameter

Outside Diameter

Length

Ream After Installation

.7953 in.

Needle Type Bearing

Bushing

Floating Bushing

.787 to .789 in.

.823 to .825 in.

1.195 to 1.205 in.

.7960 to .7975 in.

COAXIAL POWER STEERING

MODELS

Fluid Capacity of Hydraulic System

Fluid Capacity of Worm Housing

Type of Fluid

Maximum Pump Pressure

Maximum Fluid Flow at 3,000 R.P.M

Maximum Pump Rotor Clearances:

Between Rotor Lobes

Between Outer Rotor and Bushing

C-67, C-68, C-69, C-70

2qts.

l p t .

Automatic Transmission Fluid,

Type A

750 to 800 psi.

2 gal. (Minimum)

.008 in.

.006 in.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—387

COAXIAL POWER STEERING (Cont'd)

End Clearance (Between Rotors and

Face of Body)

Flow Control Valve Spring

Free Length

Working Length

Force at Working Length

Pressure Relief Valve Spring

Free Length

Working Length

Force at Working Length,

Front End Alignment

Steering Gear Ratio

Piston Rod Snap Ring Gap

(Upper and Lower) . . .

Tool Number

C-143

C-328

C-611

C-3428

C-619

C-630

SPECIAL TOOLS

MANUAL STEERING GEAR

Tool Name

Puller-—Steering Arm

Bushing—King Pin Remover

Bushing—Eccentric Adjusting

Puller—Steering Wheel

Bushing—Eccentric Adjusting

Reamer—Pilot Bushing

.001 to .002 in.

2.13 in.

1.20 in.

14 lbs. ± lVo lbs.

1.51 in.

1.18 in.

30 to 33 lbs.

16.2:1

%4 in.

388—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COAXIAL POWER STEERING GEAR

Tool Number Tool Name

C-760 Pliers—Gear Snap Ring—Straight Type

C-3102 Gauge—Hydraulic Pump and Gear Checking

C-3106 Pliers—Gear Snap Ring—Right Angle

C-3107 Wrench—Adjustable Spanner

C-3108 Studs—(Pr.) Power Cylinder

C- 3109 Spacer—Aligning Unit In Chassis

C-3112 Puller—Steering Gear Tube Coupling Adapters for C-293 Puller (C-3145

Covers C-3112 Parts and C-293 Parts Required To Pull Coupling)

C-3113 Driver—Steering Gear Shaft Outer Bearing

C-3114 Driver—Steering Gear Shaft Inner Bearing

C-3116 Pilots—(Pr.)Reservoir Installing

C-3117 Plug—Oil Pump Return Hole (Tapered) (Small)

C-3128 Pliers—Pump Shaft Rear Bearing Ring

C-3129 Driver—Pump Oil Seal and Bearing

C-3130 Thimble—Protector—Pump Oil Seal

C-3136 Sleeve—Shaft Oil Seal Installing

C-3137 Remover—Shaft Oil Seal

C-3141 Driver—Valve Block Adjusting Pin Roller

C-3142 Driver—Steering Gear Shaft Inner Seal

C-3143 Driver—Steering Tube Oil Seal In Valve Body Cap

C-3189 Plug—Oil Pump Return Hole (Tapered) (Large)

C-485, C-524 or C-3005.. Wrench—Foot-Pound Torque

C-612 Puller—Steering Wheel

C-685 or C-3380 Wrench—Inch-Pound Torque

SP-2623 Puller Screw—For Use With C-143 Puller (Previously Released)

C-3185 Remover—Pump Shaft Bushings and Seal

C-3211 Hose—High Pressure P/S Test

C-3214 Puller—Main Bearing

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—389

COAXIAL POWER STEERING GEAR (Cont'd)

Tool Number Tool Name

C-3227 Wrench—Flange Holding

C-3228 Thimble—Shaft Oil Seal Protecting

C-3229 Pliers

C-3230 Driver—Shaft Oil Seal Installing

C-3233 Driver—Shaft Bushing Installing

C-3234 Adapter—For using C-3214 Puller

C-3250 Pliers—Hose Clamp

C-3251 Driver—Main Bearing Installing

C-3309 Gauge—Oil Pump, pressure checking

C-3317 Driver—Worm Housing Oil Seal

C-3318 Hose—Low Pressure P/S Test W/adapters

C-3319 Nut—Worm Shaft Holding

C-3320 Wrench—Worm Shaft Bearing Adjusting Nut

C-3321 Wrench—Worm Connector Holding

C-3322 Remover and Installer Worm Housing Bearing Cups

C-3323 Fixture—Gear Assembly Holding

C-3328 Spanner—Upper Piston Rod Nut

C-3329 Thimble—Valve Control Spacer Seal Installing

C-3331 Driver—Housing Head and Gear Housing Seal

C-3333 Driver—Remove and Install Gear Shaft Bearing

C-3344—SP-2604 Installer—Piston and Ring Assembly

C-3350 Remover and Installer—Gear Shaft Oil Seal

C-3437 Protector—Lower Piston Rod Seal

C-3392 Wedge—Coupling Removing—(Not Required If C-3112 Is Available)

C-3398 Remover and Installer—Gear Shift Rod Bushings

C-3399 Tool—Shifter Dial Bulb Removing and Installing

C-3401 Thimble—Gearshift Adjusting Screw " 0 " Ring Installing

C-3469 Flange—Upper Housing—Used For Pretesting for Hydraulic Leaks

390—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

MANUAL STEERING

Foot-Pounds

Steering Gear to Frame Bolt 50

Steering Gear Arm (Pitman) Lock Bolt Nut. 80

Steering Knuckle Tie Rod Clamp Bolt 15

Steering Gear Mounting Bracket Bolts 50

Steering Wheel Nut 40

Steering Knuckle Tie Rod End Ball Nut 75

Intermediate Steering Arm Pin Nut 50

POWER STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY

Foot-Pounds

Pump Body to Cover Bolts 30-35

Pump Reservoir to Pump Body Bolts 12-17

Pump Mounting Bolts 18-23

Pump Reservoir Mounting Stud 30-35

Steering Knuckle Arm Nuts (Brake Anchor Nuts) 55-75

Steering Gear Arm to Shaft Nut 100-125

Steering Arm to Transverse Link Nut 50-55

Steering Gear Assembly Mounting to Frame 65-70

Steering Wheel to Steering Shaft Nut 35-40

Jacket to Instrument Panel Screws 15-20

Tie Rod Clamp Bolts 10-15

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUALSTEERING—391

POWER STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY (Cont'd)

Foot-Pounds

Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Arm Nuts 45-75

Pump Coupling Attaching Screw 15-20

Pump Flow Control and Relief Valve Adapter (Retaining) 45-50

Pump Coupling Flange Attaching Screw 10-12

Upper Piston Rod Nut 25-30

Ball Guide Clamp Screws 10-12

Worm Housing to Gear Housing Screws 25-30

Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Lock Nut 35-40

RESERVOIR

Thread Size Foot-Pounds

Reservoir Cover Bolt %

x 24 8

Relief Valve Assembly Cap 1 x 8 8

Hose Connector Inlet % x 18 30

PUMP

Thread Size Foot-Pounds

Pump Assembly Bolt %

x 18 20

Hose Connector Outlet % x 18 30

By-Pass Plug % x 16 50

Relief Valve Plug 1 x 14 50

Flow Divider Valve Plug 1% x 12 50

94 e Drain Tube Nut % x 24 *y

to % Turn or 6 to 10

* The number of turns specified is after initial finger tightening.

392—STEERING

KNOB

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SWITCH

BRACKET

GROMMET

JACKET

INSULATOR

LEVER

GROMMET

WASHER

OIL SEAL

WASHER

LOCKWASHER

NUT

O I L S E M

' ^ J ^ \ \

BUSHINGS<^T% \ *

CUP

CAGE AND ROLLERS

TUBE AND WORM

CAGE AND ROLLERS

OIL SEAL

SHIMS

COVER

SCREW

NUT

Fig. 1—Typical Steering Gear (Exploded View)

54x677 A

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—393

Section X

STEERING

(SEE FIG. 1)

1. LINKAGE

The symmetrical idler arm type of steering, as shown in Figure 2, is used on all models. A center link relays the motion from the Pitman arm to an idler arm at its opposite end. The idler arm is mounted on a bracket attached to the frame.

Two equal length tie rods connect from the center relay link to the steering knuckle arms. Both tie rods are threaded for proper toe aligning adjustment.

2. STEERING GEAR (THREE-TOOTH ROLLER

AND WORM) (Mechanical)

A three-tooth roller is mounted on needle roller bearings on a steel cross-shaft inserted through the steering gear shaft.

The worm is integral with the steering tube and is supported at each end by tapered roller bearings. The worm bearing pre-load is adjusted by means of shims placed between the housing and housing end cover. The steering gear shaft rotates in two bronze bushings pressed into the steering gear housing. The three-tooth roller on the shaft is meshed with the worm. When the steering wheel is turned, the worm rotates the steering gear shaft and roller, moving the

Pitman arm, which is splined to the end of the shaft and held in place with a nut.

Backlash between the steering gear shaft roller tooth and the worm is controlled by an adjusting screw that is threaded through the shaft and roller cover. The base end of the adjusting screw is engaged in a slot in the end of the steering gear shaft. Correct backlash can be

TIE ROD ENDS-INNER

STEERING KNUCKLE

ARM-RIGHT

TIE ROD END-OUTER

CENTER LINK

IDLER ARM

STEERING GEAR

Fig. 2—Idler Arm Type Steering Linkage

STEERING KNUCKLE

ARM-LEFT

STEERING GEAR ARM

55x5

394—STEERING obtained by turning the adjusting screw in or out, as required.

The steering wheel and Pitman arm are splined to the steering tube and steering gear shaft, respectively. Both the steering wheel and the Pitman arm have master serrations to insure correct installation.

The high point is the point of least clearance between the worm and roller and is at the midpoint of the worm and roller travel.

An oil seal is installed in the bore of the steering gear housing at the outer end of the shaft to prevent oil leakage and to keep foreign material from entering the steering unit.

3. REMOVAL OF STEERING WHEEL

ASSEMBLY

Disconnect battery and center the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position. Press down on the horn blowing ring ornament and turn counter-clockwise. Lift out ornament retaining spring and pad. Disconnect horn wire from terminal on travel plate and insulator assembly.

Remove bushing, travel plate, horn blowing contact ring spring, and triangular ground plate.

Curl and push horn wire into the steering gear tube to make room for steering wheel puller pilot. Remove the steering wheel nut. Attach puller and remove steering wheel.

4. REMOVAL OF STEERING GEAR

ASSEMBLY

It is not necessary to remove the complete steering column and mast assembly from the car for servicing the gear chuck and worm shaft. To remove the gear chuck and worm shaft assembly proceed as follows. Disconnect the battery, press down on the horn ring ornament while rotating it, and remove ornament. Remove steering column worm shaft nut. Pull steering wheel with puller. Loosen jacket bracket bolts at instrument panel. Remove dust pad retaining screws. Raise front of car and remove steering gear (Pitman) arm from gear shaft. Loosen jacket to gear chuck clamp bolt. Remove gear chuck to frame attaching bolts and work gear chuck and shaft assembly out of jacket. Remove assembly from lower side of car.

5. DISASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR

(Unit Removed From Car)

To disassemble the Manual Steering Gear Assembly, proceed as follows:

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Drain lubricant from the steering gear housing. Mount the gear assembly in a suitable bench vise, holding the assembly by the housing to chassis mounting flange, with the steering column in the horizontal position. Remove the shaft cover attaching cap screws, cover, gasket and steering gear shaft, and roller tooth assembly.

Loosen the column jacket clamp bolt, pry open clamp and remove column jacket from steering housing. Remove steering worm, lower oil seal housing cover bolts, cover and shims.

Pull steering tube and worm assembly bearing cups and bearing cages out of the lower end of steering housing.

Clean the steering gear housing shaft, bearings and other parts thoroughly with a suitable cleaning solvent. Inspect roller tooth shaft, shaft serrations, bearings, bearing cups, oil seals, worm and tube for wear, nicks and flat spots.

Replace with new parts as necessary.

Remove roller tooth assembly shaft cover adjusting screw nut and locking plate. Check adjusting screw threads in cover and on the adjusting screw. Replace if necessary.

6. ASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR

(Unit Removed From Car)

NOTE

When the steering gear assembly is disassembled, it is always advisable to install new seals and gaskets to insure against oil leaks.

If either of the worm thrust tapered roller bearings have become damaged, it is advisable to replace both bearings. After thoroughly cleaning all parts, assemble the parts without any lubrication. Lubrication should be done after the adjustments have been completed. If bushings or needle bearings have been removed, press new bushings or needle bearings into place. Use new oil seals.

Insert the worm and tube into the housing with bearings and cups in the proper order, as shown in Figure 2. Install the shims and lower housing cover, making sure that bearings are seated in cups before tightening screws. Tighten the cover screws evenly, turning the worm tube at intervale to be sure no bind occurs. Final

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—395 tightening of the screws should cause the end play to just disappear with the torque required to rotate the wheel from % to % of a pound, when measured with the pull applied at rim of wheel. If a bind in the rotation of the tube occurs when the cover screws are fully tightened, it will be necessary to add shim thickness until bind just disappears. If end play is present after final tightening, less shim thickness is required.

Shims are available in .003, .006, .011 and .025

inch. By using a micrometer to measure shims, # the proper combination can be chosen.

Refer to Figure 2 and 3. Install the roller shaft bearing in the housing. Before installing the cover, turn.the adjusting screw all the way out (counter-clockwise). When the roller shaft assembly is completely installed, with the exception of the Pitman arm, adjust as follows:

Place the steering wheel on the tube and rotate the wheel in either direction to the end of its travel. Then, rotate in the opposite direction to the end of travel while counting the turns.

Rotate the wheel back 1/2 the full number of turns. This is the center of travel (mid-travel or high point). Turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise) until all end play in the roller shaft disappears. Roll the wheel back and forth several times. There should be no bind. Rotate the wheel to one of the ends of travel and apply a spring scale or torque wrench. With the pull applied at the rim of the wheel, the tension should measure from 1 to 2 pounds. Rotate the wheel back to the center and on past the center position.

The greatest tension should be felt as the wheel is rotated through the center position. Adjust the bearing load by turning adjusting screw in or out of the cover, as required. Install lock plate, nut, and Pitman arm. Fill the gear housing with SAE 90 Fluid Gear Lubricant. Rotate the wheel back and forth through its full travel several times to be sure all parts are fully lubricated and check for leaks.

7. ADJUSTING WORM BEARINGS (In Car)

Rotate steering wheel to extreme right or left and turn back % turn. Press a finger at joint between bottom of steering wheel hub and shell.

Have another mechanic shake the front wheels hard sideways, but not enough to turn steering wheel. Any end play in worm bearings can be felt at steering wheel hub. There should be no end play at the hub. End play should not be confused with clearance between the roller and worm. If any excessive end play exists, remove the steering gear arm, drain the housing, and disconnect the horn wire at connector between steering gear and horn.

Remove cap screws which hold grease retainer cover at bottom of steering gear housing. Remove shims of sufficient thickness between this cover and housing to eliminate the end play in worm, but not enough to cause binding when cover is bolted tightly in place. Turn steering wheel from extreme right to left. If any stiffness exists, too many shims have been removed, or the steering gear assembly is misaligned on car.

8. INSTALLATION AND ALIGNMENT OF

STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY a. Installation

Where gear chuck and worm shaft assembly has been removed for service, install as follows.

Raise front of car, insert worm shaft into jacket and move gear chuck assembly up into position.

It may be necessary for an assistant to guide the top of the worm shaft through the upper jacket alignment bearing. Install gear chuck to bracket attaching bolts and tighten forward bolt to a snug fit. Lower car to floor. Center the jacket in the instrument panel and tighten bracket bolts. Install and tighten dust pad retaining screws. Install steering wheel horn ring and ornament. Raise front of car. Tighten attaching bolts. Install steering (Pitman) arm and tighten nut.

b. Alignment (All Models)

A slight bind of the steering gear is sometimes caused by shifting of body due to loosened bolts.

If this condition occurs, body bolts should first be tightened. Then, the steering gear should be loosened at frame, frame bracket and dash bracket, and allowed to seek its natural position.

Position the center of steering column in center of instrument cluster. If this cannot be accomplished by the shifting of the frame bracket, as provided for by the oversize and elongated mounting screw holes, it will be necessary to add metal washer shims between the frame and frame bracket. Tighten dash bracket and tighten steering gear to frame.

396—STEERING

NOTE

Be sure the body to frame bolts are tight and the spacers are in place. With the body bolts tight, loosen the gear housing mounting bolts to allow the steering gear to move in relation to the frame. Tighten the mounting bolts to

50 foot-pounds torque. Loosen the steering column bolts that hold column to instrument panel to determine if the column shifts its position in relation to the support.

9. ADJUSTMENT OF ROLLER TOOTH AND

WORM (In Car)

End play of steering arm shaft and mesh of roller tooth with steering worm may be adjusted as follows:

Remove steering gear (Pitman) arm from shaft and install another arm for making adjustments. Turn steering wheel to mid-position.

This is obtained by turning wheel to extreme right or left, and then turning it to opposite extreme, counting number of turns required. Turn steering wheel back 1/2 the number of turns required for turning it from one extreme to the other. With steering wheel in mid-position, attempt to move steering gear arm back and forth to determine whether or not there is any backlash. There should be no backlash. But if backlash exists, the roller tooth and worm should be adjusted.

Remove roller tooth shaft adjustment screw lock nut. Slide off lock plate far enough to clear lock boss on roller tooth shaft cover. Tighten roller tooth shaft adjusting screw (Fig. 3) enough to eliminate free play between roller tooth shaft and worm; but, it must not bind.

Slide lock plate in position against roller tooth shaft cover and lock it. Install and tighten roller tooth shaft adjustment screw lock nut.

Check steering gear operation again for binding and backlash. Correct any inaccuracies in adjustments. Install steering gear arm with tie rods.

10. SERVICING IDLER ARM

Service of the idler arm is restricted to replacement and adjustment. When replacing the idler arm, disconnect the relay rod (center link) from the idler arm. Remove the bracket attaching screws from the bracket and frame and remove

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

WORM BEARING ADJUSTING SHIMS

ADJUSTING SCREW

LOCK PLATE

-LOCK PLATE NUT

Fig. 3—Steering Gear Adjustments

5 4 x 4 6 the idler assembly. Screw the new idler arm into the bracket until the shoulder on the arm contacts the face of the bracket. Turn arm out of bracket one complete turn. It may be necessary to rotate the arm slightly to line up the bracket for installing attaching bolts.

11. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

STEERING KNUCKLE TIE RODS

Remove cotter pin and loosen nut on upper end of the rod ball. With Tool C-3394, remove tie rod from steering arm (Fig. 4). Tie rod balls are not removable from tie rod ends. If replacement of either is necessary, the complete tie rod end and ball assembly should be replaced. Loosen clamping bolt nut on the tie rod end. Unscrew tie rod end assembly from tie rod.

When assembling tie rod ends to tube body, be sure to thread the ends evenly on tube body to the nominal length listed in Data and Specifications. This is necessary to obtain proper positioning of the steering wheel with respect to the straight-ahead position of the front wheels.

Care must be taken to make certain the clamping bolts are beneath the tie rods to prevent interference on turns.

12. ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT WHEEL

BEARINGS

After removing the hub cap and the grease cap, remove the cotter pin in the bearing adjusting nut at the outer end of the steering knuckle

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING KNUCKLE ARM

Fig. 4—Removing Tie Rod From Steering Knuckle Arm

(Tool C-3394)

(wheel spindle). Turn bearing adjusting nut

(Fig. 5) hand tight. Turn adjusting nut back one slot. Turn the nut back until slot nearest cotter pin hole centers over hole and install a new cotter pin. The bearing nut threads must be in good condition and the cotter pin properly installed and spread. Always use new cotter pins.

13. RECONDITIONING FRONT WHEEL HUB

AND DRUM ASSEMBLY

Raise front end of car until wheel is off floor.

Remove hub cap. Remove wheel hub bolts. Bolts

STEERING—397 on left wheels have left-hand threads and those on right wheels have right-hand threads. Remove wheel hub grease cup (snap type) with special Tool C-438, or by prying with a screw driver and tapping with a light hammer. Remove threaded type by unscrewing cap from hub. Remove cotter pin and unscrew front wheel bearing adjusting nut. Remove outer bearing and pull hub off steering knuckle. It is not necessary to remove wheel from hub if hub is to be removed from steering knuckle spindle.

Wheel and hub may be removed as a complete unit. Inspect oil seal and replace if necessary.

Before installing front wheel hub and bearing assembly, remove lubricant from the hub and bearings and make sure parts are in good condition. Install inner and outer bearing cups so there is no clearance between the hub shoulders. Pack bearings with Short Fiber Wheel

Bearing Lubricant (Medium). When installing the oil seals, make certain that the seal flange bottoms on the bearing cup.

14. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

STEERING KNUCKLE KING PINS AND

BUSHINGS

NOTE

Should servicing of the steering knuckle be nec-

1—Bearing nut

2—Bearing thrust washer

3—Outer bearing cup

4—Hub

Fig. 5—Front Wheel Bearings

5—Inner bearing cone and rollers

6 - H u b dust seal

7—Hub cap

8—Grease cap

°—Bearing nut cotter pin

10—Outer bearing cone and rollers

11—Steering knuckle

12—Inner bearing cup

398—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 6—Removing Brake Support essary, time can be saved by removing the steering knuckle arm from the steering knuckle.

Remove steering knuckle and brake support as an assembly. Make necessary repairs on a bench.

If it is done in this manner, eliminate removing support. Remove brake hose connections, but leave brake support on steering knuckle. Remove unit as an assembly with steering knuckle after king pin is removed. Always use new bushings, seals, and pins ivhen servicing the steering knuckle and support assembly.

Fig. 7—Removing King Pin Bushing or Bearing

1—King pin bushing or bearing 2—Tool C-328 at top and oil hole in bearing lined up with oil hole in steering knuckle. Stationary type bushings (Fig. 8) should be line-reamed. First remove the upper needle bearing. Install reamer pilot bushing Tool C-631 and reamer Tool C-379.

When installing lower and upper floating type bushing (Fig. 9), place open end of oil groove to the top. Both types of lower bushings should

Remove wheel and hub assembly. Block brake pedal so it cannot be depressed. Remove nuts and bolts that fasten brake support to steering knuckle. Remove steering knuckle arm from steering knuckle. Remove brake hose and connections and lift off brake support (Fig. 6). Do not allow brake support and shoe assembly to be

supported by flexible brake hose. Remove king pin locking pin.

Drive a punch into upper steering knuckle welch plug and pry it out of steering knuckle.

Drive king pin downward, forcing out lower welch plug. A soft brass drift should be used when driving against top of king pin. Remove steering knuckle upper needle bearing or bushing by pulling it toward center knuckle, using special tool, as shown in Figure 7. Remove steering knuckle lower bushing. If bushing is of the stationary type, use special tool to remove it.

The upper needle bearing must be installed from top of steering knuckle, with trade mark

49x607

Fig. 8—Bearing and Stationary Type Bushing

Installed

1—Bearing identification mark 3—Lubricant holes

2—Bushing identification line or notch A—3/32 inch

B-l/16inch

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—399

STAKE IN PLACE

AS SHOWN

STAKE SECURELY

4 PLACES AS

SHOWN BOTH

ENDS

Fig. 9—Bearing and Floating Type Bushing Installed

1—Bearing identification mark

2—Lubricant holes

3—Floating type bushing

A - 3 / 1 6 i n c h be installed with oil hole in bearing lined up with oil hole in steering knuckle. On cars equipped with Power Steering, the king pin bushings should be installed with the open end of the oil groove leading towards the "O" seal rings.

After installing the steering knuckle, make sure it is free in the support. Binding at this point may cause sensitive steering and car wander. There should be .006 to .008 inch clearance between the steering knuckle and the knuckle support. This clearance can be adjusted by the

49x701

Fig. 10—Welch Plug and King Pin Lock Pin Installed use of shims between the steering knuckle and the thrust bearings.

When installing a welch plug, it is necessary to stake it after it is properly in place, as shown in Figure 10.

Before installing hub and drum assembly, perform Major Brake Adjustment, described in Section III, Brakes, as applied to cars equipped with Manual Steering. After installing hub, drum and wheel assembly, check king pin inclination, caster, camber, and toe-in or toe-out, as outlined in Front Wheel Alignment in this Section. Adjust brakes.

COAXIAL POWER STEERING

15. DESCRIPTION (Fig. 11)

The Coaxial Power Steering Unit incorporates two basic gear mechanisms, a worm and worm connector and a rack and sector gear.

The worm and worm connector act in a manner similar to a bolt and nut assembly, rotation of the worm causes linear (axial) motion of the worm connector. Fastened to the worm connector, in succession, are an upper piston rod, a piston, and a lower piston rod, all concentric to the steering column axis. (This arrangement provides a means for adding power assistance to the system.)

400—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

FLOW CONTROL VALVE (CLOSED)

PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE

HIGH PRESSURE - LOW FLOW

FLOW CONTROL VALVE (OPEN)

PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE (CLOSED)

LOW PRESSURE - HIGH FLOW

•FLOW CONTROL VALVE (OPEN)

PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE (OPEN)

HIGH PRESSURE - HIGH FLOW

53x632

Fig. 12—Pump Pressure and Flow

STEERING—401

A rack, machined in the lower portion of the lower piston rod, meshes with a sector gear.

This combination produces rotation of the steering gear arm and thereby actuates the steering linkage.

The hydraulic system of the Coaxial gear consists of a double-acting piston, a valve (which fits inside the piston), and a hydraulic reaction chamber (which gives the driver the "feel" of the road). Axial positioning of the valve directs high pressure oil to one side or the other of the double-acting piston. At the same time, valve movement opens an oil return line which carries oil from the low pressure side of the piston to the oil reservoir. The direction of oil flow (which depends upon the direction of steering wheel rotation) is such that hydraulic force is added to the driver's effort and is transmitted through the rack and sector gear to the steering gear arm.

Other components of the hydraulic system are, a generator-driven oil pump with pressure relief valve and flow control valve, and a filter with the oil reservoir. The flow control valve limits the oil flow to a predetermined maximu^n

(IV2 gallons per minute) and thus holds tHe horsepower required to drive the oil pump to a minimum.

a. Power Steering Oil Pump, Reservoir and

Assembly

The oil pump and reservoir assembly is mounted at the rear end of the generator. A cartridge-type filter element is located in the reservoir. Oil from the steering gear assembly flows through an internal passage in the pump body, through the full-flow oil filter, and into the reservoir chamber. From the reservoir, oil enters the oil pump intake (Fig. 12). The position of the oil pump is adjustable to help maintain level fluid in reservoir when drive belt is adjusted.

A small diaphragm vent valve in the reservoir cover is forced open to provide a passage to the atmosphere, if excessive pressure occurs in the reservoir.

With cold oil, insufficient oil would pass through the filter to the reservoir, and the oil pressure would build-up in the line from the steering gear assembly. Therefore, a spring-

402—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

O U T (LOW PRESSURE OIL)

IN NEUTRAL POSITION, THE OPENINGS BETWEEN THE VALVE

AND VALVE BODY OFFER LITTLE FLOW RESTRICTION SO OIL

PRESSURE IS LOW. EQUAL PRESSURE ON BOTH PISTON FACES

HOLDS PISTON STATIONARY.

(N (LOW PRESSURE OIL)

SPOOL VALVE

PISTON

Fig. 13—Oil Flow—Neutral Valve Position

53x859

O U T (LOW PRESSURE OIL) t WHEN THE VALVE IS PULLED UP, IT OFFERS FLOW RESTRICTION AT

" A " A N D " B

. OIL PRESSURE INCREASES GREATLY, CREATING A HYDRAU-

LIC FORCE O N PISTON. AS PISTON MOVES, OIL ENTERS THE HIGH

PRESSURE CYLINDER, A N D OIL I N THE LOW PRESSURE CYLINDER IS

FORCED OUT RETURN PASSAGES.

IN (HIGH PRESSURE OIL)

SPOOL VALVE

PISTON

Fig. 14—Oil Flow—Right Turn—Valve Pulled Up

53x860

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL loaded relief valve is provided at the top of the filter element. When oil pressure in the filter builds up to about 5 to 7 psi., this valve opens and permits oil to pass directly into the reservoir chamber.

The rotary oil pump is driven from the rear end of the generator armature shaft through a flexible coupling. The single rotor in the pump draws oil from the reservoir, and discharges it through the built-in combination flow control valve and pressure relief valve to the valve in the power unit assembly.

In the power steering pump, the flow control valve and pressure relief valve are combined in a single assembly, as shown in Figure 12. The spring-loaded pressure relief valve is concentric with and fits inside the spring-loaded flow control valve. When the pressure relief valve is closed, it seats against a snap ring in the flow control valve. An orifice in the pressure relief valve provides the oil pressure drop that controls the operation of the flow control valve.

When the oil flow from the pump tends to rise above l

/^ gallons per minute, the difference in pressure across the orifice overcomes the spring load, and the flow control valve moves to uncover a passage to the intake side of the pump.

By preventing excessive oil flow, the flow control valve limits the pressure drop through the hydraulic system and thus limits the horsepower required to drive the pump. Oil flow of the pump when the engine is idling is about 1% gallons per minute.

Oil pressure in the hydraulic system builds up to that required to overcome the resistance to turning of the road wheels. In other words, straight-ahead highway steering requires a relatively low oil pressure, while a higher oil pressure is required when turning a corner. A rapid build-up of oil pressure tends to occur when the road wheels are turned against a curb or when the steering wheel is turned all the way in one direction so that the piston reaches the end of the stroke. To prevent excessive oil pressure, the pressure relief valve in the pump limits the oil pressure from 750 to 800 psi.

The entire hydraulic oil system for power steering has a capacity of 2 quarts of SAE

10 W engine, or type "A" oil. The worm housing capacity is one pint which is separate from the pressure system.

STEERING—403 b. How the Coaxial Power Steering Operates

The heart of the Coaxial Power Steering Unit has two parts; the valve and the valve body

(actually a part of the hydraulic piston, as shown in Figure 13). Together, these two pieces control the operation of the entire power system. When the driver turns the steering wheel, the valve moves with respect to the hydraulic piston, and power asistance instantly responds.

The relative movement between the valve and piston is very slight (it seldom excee Is .0025

inch) and must not be confused with the general movement of the whole step'ing system as the front wheels turn. The driver controls the power steering unit by governing the relative movement between the valve and hydra ilic piston. Control movements are based o. feel of the road that comes through the steering wheel from a hydraulic reaction chamber inside the power unit. Relative movement of the valve and piston affects hydraulic action as follows:

As the valve moves relative to the piston, it regulates oil pressure and directs oil flow through the hydraulic circuit. Consider the case where the steering wheel is not turned and the valve is in neutral position, as shown in Figure

13. In this position, the valve leaves openings between it and the valve body so oil flows through the unit quite easily with very little flow restriction. Therefore, the oil pump has only a slight resistance to overcome, and the oil entering the power steering unit is under low pressure.

Inside the unit, the oil reaches the valve through holes drilled in the piston. At the valve the flow divides, and oil travels toward both ends of the valve. It flows through succeeding openings between the valve and adjacent valve body until it reaches the main return passage drilled through the lower piston rod. It then returns to the reservoir and filter. In the neutral position, oil pressure on both sides of the power piston is the same. Consequently, the piston remains stationary.

When the driver turns the steering wheel, the valve moves either up or down, depending on which direction he turns. Suppose that he moves the valve up slightly, relative to the piston. By moving the valve this small amount, the driver

404—STEERING puts the power system into operation, as shown in Figure 14.

The instant the valve is moved, two important things happen: (1) the inlet oil pressure increases because of restricted openings ber tween the valve and valve body, and (2) the increased pressure is directed to one side of the power piston. The restrictions causing the pressure rise are marked "A and B" in Figure 14.

These narrow spaces "dam up" the oil that is being forced through the system by the oil pump. Because the pump is a positive-displacement type, the oil must keep moving. As the oil

"piles-up" behind the restrictions, its pressure increases tremendously, squeezing oil through the narrow spaces at a very fast rate. Often the restrictions may close completely, giving operating pressure at the fastest possible rate.

The maximum pressure build-up is limited to

800 psi by a pressure relief valve in the pump assembly.

The high oil pressure is directed to the lower end of the cylinder (for this case through the passages indicated in Figure 14). However, the opposite end of the cylinder is open to the

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL return line. Therefore, a difference in pressure exists in each end of the cylinder and the piston moves. Oil trapped in the lower pressure cylinder is forced through the return passages as the piston moves up.

By careful design, all of these elements have been combined into two compact units which are connected by a pair of flexible hoses. The power unit contains the power piston, spool valve, and hydraulic reaction chamber. Tne supply unit incorporates the reservoir and the oil pump with its valves.

If the driver stops turning the steering wheel and holds it in a fixed position, the front wheels immediately stop turning. This is how it happens: with the steering wheel held, the valve remains in its pulled up position because the valve is mechanically connected to the steering wheel. The piston, on the other hand, is moving up under the action of the pressure in the lower end of the cylinder, and continues to move up for the briefest instant until the relative motion between piston and valve has returned them to the neutral position. In neutral position, there is very little flow restriction, as explained before,

CONNECTOR NUT

UPPER PISTON ROD

ADJUSTING DISC RETAINER

VALVE ADJUSTING DISC

VALVE

OPERATING

ROD

ADJUSTING

TANG

WORM

CONNECTOR

VALVE CONTROL

SPACER SEAL

-SEAL RETAINERS

PISTON ROD NUT AND LOCK CUP

Fig. 15—Hydraulic Reaction Assembly

53x861

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—405

OIL IS SUPPLIED FROM MAIN LINE AT OPERATING PRESSURE. DRIVER'S STEERING FORCE PASSES

FROM WORM CONNECTOR TO REACTION RING TO THE OIL-FILLED SEAL WHICH RESISTS BEING

SQUEEZED BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE WITHIN IT. THIS RESISTANCE GIVES DRIVER THE "FEEL"

OF STEERING BECAUSE OPERATING PRESSURE IS PROPORTIONAL TO TURNING LOAD.

UPPER PISTON

ROD

WORM SEAL

CONNECTOR RETAINERS

VALVE CONTROL

SPACER SEAL

OIL FROM

MAIN LINE

VALVE

SPOOL

•-VALVE

OPERATING ROD

OPERATING CLEARANCES

53x862 so oil pressure drops to its lowest point. Power assistance ceases and the front wheels remain where the steering wheel indicates. The entire action is instantaneous because the relative movement between valve and piston is so slight.

What causes the relative movement between these parts and how does the driver get his

"feel" of the road?

The first important fact to remember is that the valve is mechanically connected to the steering wheel, as shown in Figure 15. The valve solidly connects to the worm connector through the valve-operating rod. The worm connector is attached to the steering wheel through a worm shaft, as shown in Figure 11. Hence, the slightest steering wheel movement is transferred through the worm connector to the valve.

Another important fact, is that the upper piston rod is hydraulically attached to the worm connector through two seal retainers and a rubber reaction seal whenever the power system is operating (Fig. 16). The connection is called hydraulic because the rubber seal, one of the connecting links between the worm connector and piston rod, is filled with oil. Oil from the main oil line is supplied to the seal through a hole

Fig. 16—Hydraulic Reaction Chamber drilled in the piston and another drilled down the long axis of the upper piston rod. The oil in the reaction seal is, therefore, at full operating pressure.

Suppose the steering wheel is turned in such a direction so that the worm connector (and valve) tries to move up (right turn). In trying to move up, the worm connector pushes on the lower seal retainers and squeezes the oil-filled seal. Because the valve has been in neutral position until this instant, the pressure inside the reaction seal is low and the seal compresses, allowing the worm connector — and valve — to move without moving the piston rod. In other words, there is relative motion between the valve and piston which is fastened to the piston rod. Therefore, oil pressure rises in the system because of the restrictions between the valve and valve body, and the piston begins to move the steering parts that connect to the front wheels. At the same time, the higher oil pressure is felt inside the oil-filled reaction seal.

The greater pressure inside the reaction seal attempts to force the seal and the worm connector back to their original (neutral) positions.

Therefore, the driver feels a resistance to turning the steering wheel (a resistance proportional

OIL

RING

ROD, LEVER

SNAP RING

OIL SEAL

" O " RING

SNAP RING-

" O " RING<

" O " RING'

PISTON AND ROD

" O " RING

RETAINER

RING

RETAINER

" O " RING

RING

PLUNGER

SPRING

BODY

HOUSING

" O " RING

COVER \

SNAP RING

HEAD-

SCREW

GASKET

ADAPTER

.. RETAINER

^f I DISC

CUP WORM

--*. GUIDE

^ CLAMP

SCREW

SPACER

WASHER

C P INNER

PLUG

BEARING

CUP OUTER

'PLUG

XUP OUTER

HOUSING

\ BEARING

CUP INNER

BALL PACKAGE

WASHER

OIL SEAL

ADAPTER SCREW

WASHER

55x84

Fig. 17—Coaxial Power Steering (Exploded View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL to the steering resistance at the road). This permits a desirable "feel" of the road with a minimum of driving effort.

It should be remembered that the process just described is instantaneous as far as the driver is concerned; it has been broken into steps simply for explanation.

The driver controls the front wheels surely and accurately with his steering wheel. If he stops turning, piston movement will return the system to neutral, as already explained. If he keeps turning, he maintains the relative movement between valves and piston, and the power system keeps operating. During operation, the driver always "feels" the road through the steering wheel.

The driver is helped by power assistance, if road disturbances try to turn the front wheels off course. When a driver holds the steering wheel fixed, he actually is commanding the power system to hold the front wheels fixed, regardless of the forces that try to turn them.

The power system complies by acting "in reverse" whenever road obstructions jar the wheels. For example, suppose the front wheel strikes a rut or chuck hole. The wheel begins to deflect from its course. The first slightest

STEERING—407 amount of off-course deflection is transmitted through the steering linkage to the hydraulic piston. The piston moves a fraction. However, because the driver is holding the steering wheel, the valve cannot move. There is relative motion between the valve and piston (this time caused by piston motion rather than the valve motion).

Therefore, oil pressure builds up in the one end of the cylinder, creating a hydraulic force that pushes the piston back toward the neutral position in direct opposition to the disturbing obstruction. Hence, the front wheels do not turn.

The driver maintains control on bad roads with a minimum of steering effort.

If oil pressure is somehow interrupted (such as the fan belt breaking), the small operating clearances in the hydraulic reaction chamber close up as the driver turns the wheel one way or the other, giving solid metal connections (Fig. 16). Therefore, the system steers mechanically; that is, steering wheel movements travel through the worm connector, through one seal retainer, through the piston rod and piston, and through the rack and sector gear to the linkage that connects to the front wheels. If this condition is allowed to continue, steering wheel play will greatly increase and oil will be pumped out of the system through the reservoir vent.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT OF COAXIAL

POWER STEERING

16.

REMOVAL OF COAXIAL POWER

STEERING UNIT FROM CAR

Remove horn ring ornament from steering wheel. Disconnect horn wire and remove horn ring. Remove steering wheel with puller and remove turn signal lever and plate. Loosen the steering column to instrument panel bracket.

Loosen steering column jacket clamp screws and raise front of car. Disengage drag link from Pitman arm and pull Pitman arm with

Tool C-3402. Loosen three gear housing to frame attaching bolts. Remove floor mat retaining plate and rubber dust pad. Disconnect pressure and return hoses and drain gear assembly by slowly rotating steering wheel until all oil is expelled from unit. Fasten disconnected ends of hoses above oil level in reservoir to prevent further loss of oil and cap the ends to prevent any foreign matter from entering. Remove gear housing to frame attaching bolts and alignment wedge. Remove gear assembly from lower side of car.

17. DISASSEMBLING THE COAXIAL POWER

STEERING UNIT (Fig. 17) a. Precautions to Follow During Disassembly and Assembly

Cleanliness throughout the entire disassembly and assembly operations is absolutely essential.

The unit should be thoroughly cleaned in a suitable solvent when removed from vehicle. When disassembling, each part should be placed in the solvent, washed, and dried by compressed air. Careful handling of parts must be exercised to avoid nicks and burrs. Crocus cloth may be used to remove small nicks or burrs, provided it is used carefully. When used on valve

408—STEERING

spool, use extreme care not to round off the sharp edge portion. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type of valve since it helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and bore, thus reduc ing the possibilities of sticking.

Remove and discard all "0" seal rings, and seals. Use new ones lubricated with Lubriplate when reassembling. To disassemble the Power

Steering Unit for repair or overhaul, refer to

Figure 17, and proceed as follows: b. Removal of Worm Housing from Gear

Housing

Drain lower portion of steering gear through pressure and return connections by turning steering tube coupling from one extreme of travel to the other. Using a %e inch Allen wrench, remove worm housing filler plug and drain the worm (upper) housing. Attach holding fixture to unit and place in a vise. Use concave type washers when mounting steering housing on tool. Remove tube coupling screw, lockwasher and washer from center of coupling. Remove coupling from worm shaft, as shown in Figure

18. Remove the worm housing oil seal with a screwdriver from the housing. Use extreme care to avoid damaging housing when removing seal. Unlock bearing adjusting nut by bending tang of lockwasher. (Only one tang locks nut in position.) Place tools over worm shaft, as shown in Figure 19. Holding the worm stationary, remove worm bearing adjusting nut, lockwasher and thrust washer. The worm bearing adjusting nut is tapered on the bearing side.

Remove the worm outer bearing race and bearing roller from worm. Remove the three worm

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL to gear housing screws and concave washers and remove worm housing. It may be necessary to tap housing lightly due to interference fit with "0" ring seal between housing head and housing. The concave side of the washers fit against housing. Use care to avoid dropping the inner bearing during this operation. Remove lower bearing roller from housing. Inspect bearing roller and the upper and lower bearing cups in housing. Do not remove bearing cups unless inspection reveals it is necessary. To remove upper and lower bearing cups, use Tool C-3322, as shown in Figure 20.

c. Removal of Worm Connector

Remove housing head "0" ring. Unlock worm connector nut lock and slide lock back sufficiently to loosen worm connector nut. With Tool C-

3321 attach to worm connector, remove connector nut, as shown in Figure 21. It may be necessary to rotate steering gear shaft (by installing Pitman arm), to raise worm connector in order to permit installation of Tool C-3326.

Slide worm connector assembly from valve control spacer.

d. Disassembly of Worm Connector Assembly

Disassembly of the worm connector and worm shaft assembly is not recommended unless damaged or worn.

CAUTION

Caution should be exercised not to bottom the worm shaft in the outward direction upon disassembly or assembly. Bottoming the worm shaft may damage the ball guides and cause a tight and rough operating worm.

COUPLING

HOLD

WORM SHAFT

STATIONARY

53x801

Fig. 18—Removing Tube Coupling (Tool C-3392)

54x626

Fig. 19—Removing or Installing Bearing

Adjusting Nut

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—409

J - -

I H

I l

I 1

REMOVING OUTER BEARING CUP

INSTALLING OUTER BEARING CUP

-L--TT-

_ ; REMOVING INNER BEARING CUP INSTALLING INNER BEARING CUP

Fig. 20—Removing or Installing Upper and Lower Bearing Cups (Tool C-3322)

Remove the worm connector ball guide clamp screws and lockwashers. Remove guide clamp, as shown in Figure 22. Using care to avoid losing any of the worm balls, carefully remove the ball guide from the worm connector. Worm

53x805 balls are a select fit with each other. If any of them are damaged and require replacing, it is recommended that a complete set (40) be installed.

TOOL

WORM CONNECTOR

WORM CONNECTOR NUT

WORM

BALL GUIDE CLAMP

TOOL

54x628

Fig. 21—Removing or Installing Worm

Connector Nut

BALL GUIDE-

WORM CONNECTOR-

CONNECTOR NUT LOCK-

54x629

Fig. 22—Ball Guide and Guide Clamp

410—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY

GEAR HOUSING

54x630

Fig. 23—Removing Gear Shaft Oil Seal

(Tool C-3350)

54x633

Fig. 25—Removing Piston and Rod Assembly

Turn worm connector assembly over and carefully thread the remaining worm balls out of the worm connector by turning the worm in and out. Count the worm balls which were removed. There should be a total of 40 balls.

Remove worm from connector. Slide connector nut lock from connector. Inspect guide rails on connector for nicks and burrs.

e. Removal of Piston and Rods from Gear

Housing

To remove the steering gear shaft oil seal, remove lock ring, and proceed as follows. Slide threaded portion of tool over steering shaft, and screw tightly into seal. To do this, install tool

GEAR SHAFT nut on steering gear shaft and force the threaded portion of tool into seal. Install the two half collars to lock the tool together, and install the half collar retaining ring. Turn nut and pull seal out of housing, as shown in Figure

23. Remove the tool.

Remove the lock nut from shaft adjusting screw. Remove the three screws from cover.

Remove the steering gear shaft cover from housing by turning adjusting screw in.

Remove steering gear shaft assembly from gear housing by using a fiber hammer and tapping lightly. Align gear on gearshaft to clear opening in lower housing before attempting removal. Removal of adjusting screw is not necessary unless screw is damaged.

Using Tool C-3229, remove adjusting screw retainer snap ring. Remove adjusting screw, thrust washer, and washer from steering gear shaft, as shown in Figure 24. Remove adjusting

THRUST WASHER

VALVE ROD ADJUSTING DISC

^ „ " O " RING

WASHER-

ADJUSTING SCREW-

LOCK RIN<

54x631

Fig. 24—Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Assembly

VALVE ROD ADJUSTING DISC RETAINER

53x811

Fig. 26—Removing Valve Rod Adjusting Disc

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—411

UPPER PISTON ROD

UPPER PISTON

ROD NUT

HOUSING HEAD"

53x815

Fig. 29—Removing or Installing Housing Head

5 3 x 8 1 2

Fig. 27—Removing Upper Piston Rod Nut

(Tool C-3328) screw "O" ring. Inspect bearing surface on shaft for being pitted or scored. Inspect condition of teeth on shaft. Place a suitable container under the assembly to catch trapped oil and slide piston assembly and rods from gear housing, as shown in Figure 25.

CAUTION

Use extreme care in handling to avoid damaging the sealing surfaces on housing head.

f. Disassembly of Piston and Rods

Remove valve rod adjusting disc from valve

VALVE CONTROL SPACER

WORM CONNECTOR NUT

HOUSING HEAD rod, as shown in Figure 26. To remove a tight fitting adjusting disc, wrap tape around the edge (this will prevent damaging disc), and grip it with multi-grip pliers. Tool C-3445 may be used to easily turn the valve rod from the disc.

Slide valve rod adjusting disc retainer from upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 26. Remove upper piston rod nut lock cap. Remove upper piston rod nut, as shown in Figure 27.

If the piston and upper piston rod turn when removing the upper piston rod nut, wrap several layers of masking tape around center piston, and clamp in a vise with protective jaws.

The piston nut can then be removed. Support upper piston rod on a block of wood to help prevent damaging the housing head when removing nut. Slide valve control spacer assembly from upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 28.

Remove spacer seal retainers from spacer and slide seal assembly from valve control spacer.

Remove worm connector nut from upper piston rod. Slide housing head off upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 29. Remove housing head

"0" ring. Using a suitable drift, remove upper piston rod seal (lip type) from housing head.

UPPER PISTON ROD SNAP RING

CONTROL SPACER RETAINER

VALVE ROD'

5 3 x 8 1 3

Fig. 28—Removing Valve Control Spacer Seal and

Seal Assembly

PISTON RING (STEEL)

Fig. 30—Removing Piston Rings

53x816

412—STEERING

PISTON ASSEMBLY

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

VALVE ASSEMBLY

5 3 x 8 1 9

Fig. 31—Removing Valve Assembly from Piston

Remove the two backup (steel) and "D" type

(neoprene) piston rings from piston, as shown in Figure 30. Part of the 1955 production does not use steel rings. A new and wider type rubber ring is used instead.

Using snap ring pliers, remove lower piston rod snap ring and slide lower piston rod from piston.

Using care not to bend the valve piston rod, slide valve assembly from piston assembly, as shown in Figure 31. Using a

A inch punch, drive piston pin into upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 32. Using snap ring pliers, remove upper piston rod snap ring. Note the position and construction of snap ring.

Remove upper piston rod from piston, as shown in Figure 33. Using a wire hook, remove piston pin and "0" ring from piston rod, as

PISTON PIN HOLES

53x821

Fig. 33—Removing Upper Piston Rod shown in Figure 34. Make sure the oil passage is open. Inspect the sealing surface on piston rod for being scored. Remove the two small valve rod "O" rings from the bore of the upper piston rod (one in each end). Remove the large upper piston rod "O" ring.

Remove lower piston rod "0" ring. Inspect rack teeth and sealing surfaces on lower piston rod.

g. Removal of Relief Valve Assembly

Thread a V

inch 28NF bolt into threads provided in plug (Fig. 35). Clamp bolt head in a vise and, by pulling on lower piston rod, plug can be removed. Should end plug be seized in rod, a fiber hammer may be used to tap on retaining flange of lower piston rod. Inspect piston for nicks and burrs. Make sure all oil passages are open and free from dirt.

5 3 * M O

Fig. 32—Removing Upper Piston Rod Pin

UPPER PISTON ROD

PISTON PIN ASSEMBLY

WIRE HOOK

5 3 x 8 2 2

Fig. 34—Removing Piston Pin from Upper

Piston Rod

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

RELIEF VALVE PLUG

LOWER PISTON ROD

STEERING—413

TOOL

55x173

Fig. 37—Removing Lower Piston Rod Seal

(Tool. C-3331)

54x636

Fig. 35—Removing Lower Piston Rod Relief

Valve Plug h. Disassembly of Steering Gear Housing

Inspect steering gear shaft needle bearing in gear housing for broken or rough needles. Do not remove bearing unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. If it is necessary to remove needle bearings, use puller Tool C-3333 to pull steering gear housing shaft needle bearings from inside gear housing as shown in Figure 36.

Using snap ring pliers, remove gear housing cover snap ring (tapered) at bottom of housing.

Remove housing cover and remove "0" ring from housing. Use extreme care when removing the lower plug to prevent cocking. A cocked plug is apt to result in a broken gear housing.

Remove lower piston rod seal (lip type) from housing, as shown in Figure 37. The lower rod is supported by a half bushing. The bushing is a friction fit over a dowel pin. If it is necessary to replace the support bushing it may be pried from the dowel pin with a screwdriver.

18. ASSEMBLY OF COAXIAL POWER

STEERING GEAR a. Assembly of Steering Gear Housing

Place a new piston rod seal over driver so the lip will be facing up or to the inside of the cylin-

DRfVER

PISTON ROD SEAL

ALIGNING PILOT

Fig. 36—Removing Steering Gear Housing Shaft

Needle Bearing (Tool C-3333)

54x639

Fig. 38—Installing Lower Piston Rod Seal

(Tool C-3395)

414—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

BUSHING

PISTON

VALVE AND VALVE ROD 53x831

Fig. 41—Installing Valve Assembly

Fig. 39—Support Bushing Installed der when installed. Insert seal aligning pilot of tool in end of driver and drive lower piston rod seal into position in gear housing, as shown in

Figure 38.

Using driver Tool C-3333, install housing shaft needle bearing assemblies in gear housing until bearings bottom in the bores (if removed).

Always drive on letter side of bearing. Other-

wise, damage to bearing may result. Install piston rod support bushing in housing, making sure bushing is properly seated over dowel, as shown in Figure 39 (if previously removed).

b. Assembly of Piston and Rods

Insert relief valve spring followed by plunger into valve body and insert assembly (milled end first) into lower piston rod. Press end plug into lower piston rod sufficiently to seat against the relief valve body.

N

NOTE

A suitable adaptor will be required to press end plug into place. Otherwise, damage to rod will result. If plug is not pressed in far enough to properly seat against the valve body, it will produce a rattling or clattering sound when hydraulic pressure is applied. If the plug is pressed in too tightly, it will cause the relief ports in the valve body to collapse, restricting the plunger and creating high back pressure, resulting in lack of steering assistance and a hissing noise.

Remove all burrs from around the end plug.

Lubricate the two valve rod " 0 " rings with

Lubriplate and install one in each end of upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 40. Make sure

rings are seated properly. Lubricate the two large "O" rings with Lubriplate and install one on each upper and lower piston rod. Make sure they seat properly in the ring grooves. Install lower piston rod (with rack) into end of piston assembly opposite pin hole. Using snap ring pliers, install snap ring.

PISTON PIN HOLES

;<O>< R I N G

53x830

Fig. 40—Installing Valve Rod "O" Ring

PISTON

VALVE ROD

UPPER PISTON ROD 53x832

Fig. 42—Installing Upper Piston Rod

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—415

SEAL RETAINER ASSEMBLY

PISTON PIN

O" RING SEAL

5 3 x 8 3 3

Fig. 43—Installing Piston Pin

NOTE

When installing the snap ring, it must be installed with the tapered side away from the piston so that the taper is visible after installation.

The gap between the ends of the installed snap ring should be measured to be sure the ring is seated. The minimum permissible gap is

4 inch. Be sure the snap ring does not restrict any part of the ports in the end of the piston rod.

Lubricate valve assembly with Lubriplate

Fig. 45—Installing Valve Control Spacer

(Tool C-3393)

55x175 and slide into position in assembly, as shown in

Figure 41. Using care not to damage the " 0 " rings, slide upper piston rod over the valve rod, aligning the piston pin hole in the piston assembly with the hole in the upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 42. Lubricate a new piston pin

" 0 " ring with Lubriplate and install on piston pin, as shown in Figure 43. With the piston pin holes aligned in both the piston and upper piston rod, position piston pin (tapered end first) in position. Use a % inch punch and hammer, tap lightly until piston pin is flush or slightly below bottom of piston ring groove (Figure 43).

If piston pin is too high in groove, piston ring will not properly seal. This will cause unequal pressure when valve is centered in piston.

Using snap ring pliers, install the upper piston rod snap ring. Use the same precautions and specifications as previously used in position-

ing the lower piston rod snap ring. Select snap ring of sufficient thickness to prevent turning of snap ring after it is installed. If it is too loose, the piston will move with relation to the piston

TOOL

53x834

Fig. 44—Installing Upper Piston Rod Seal

(Tool C-3395)

53x837

Fig. 46—Locking Upper Piston Rod Nut Lock Cap

416—STEERING

SfEEL R I N G S -

TYPE NEOPRENE RINGS

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTING SCREW

TOOL

53x839

Fig. 47—Installing Piston Rings rod and prevent consistent adjustment of control valve. Place a new upper piston rod seal on jdriver (lip of seal facing" tool). Insert seal in end of driver and drive upper piston rod seal

(lip of seal out) into position in housing head, as shown in Figure 44. Lubricate seal with Lubriplate.

Install housing head assembly (sealing lip first) onto upper piston rod. Use same precautions to protect sealing surfaces on housing head as used when disassembling. Slide connector nut onto the upper piston rod with open threaded end away from piston. Lubricate the valve control spacer seal with Lubriplate and

TOOi

TOOl

Fig. 48—Installing Piston and Rod Assembly

Fig. 49—Installing Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw

"O" Ring (Tool C-3401) install in center of valve control spacer. Should it be necessary to replace the valve control spacer or upper piston rod for any reason, always select a spacer to match. The length of the valve control spacer selected must be identical to the distance between the seat of the valve control spacer seal retainer and seated upper piston rod nut. Place tool over threaded end of upper piston rod.

Lubricate the valve control spacer retainers with Lubriplate and place into position (small diameter first) so they nest in valve control spacer. Slide spacer, seal and retainer assembly over tool and into position on piston rod, as shown in Figure 45, and remove tool.

Install upper piston rod nut and, using Tool

C-3328, tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds torque. Lock in place using piston rod nut lock by tapping outer diameter of lock into nut recess, as shown in Figure 46.

Slide valve rod adjusting disc retainer (largest diameter first) over end of upper piston rod.

Thread valve rod disc (extended lock thread section outward) onto valve rod until approximately three threads show for aid in later adjustment. When installing disc on rod, considerable resistance should be noticed. If not, crimp end of disc slightly to cause the threads of the disc to bind on rod. The maximum torque required to turn disc on rod should not exceed 20 inch-pounds, maximum. Place lock sleeve on worm connector (tang of sleeve) toward threaded end.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—417

Fig. 50—Positioning Rack For Timing

55x176

Lubricate the two "D" type (neoprene) piston rings with Lubriplate and install on piston.

To aid in installation of rings, first slide rings over ring lands and to center of piston, with lips facing away from each other. Slide rings into position in ring lands, as shown in Figure 47.

Install back-up (steel) rings, one on each end of the piston. Part of production does not use steel rings. Wider rubber rings are used instead.

c. Installation oi Piston and Rod Assembly in

Gear Housing

Lubricate lower piston rod, teeth of rack and tool with Lubriplate, and position tool in teeth of rack. Lubricate large "0" rings with Lubriplate and install on the side of housing head that faces piston assembly.

Place ring compressing tool on gear housing.

Position piston and rod assembly so the teeth on rack are 180 degrees from bushing support and install into gear housing, as shown in Figure 48. Use extreme care when performing this operation so as not to damage gear housing oil seal or piston rings. Do not use a screwdriver to compress piston rings. To further a