Hunter Marine 2006 H46, 2006 Sailing Yacht Owner's Manual
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HUNTER OWNER’S MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION PAGE
•
Warranty Registration Form………………………………………
•
Warranty………………………………………….…………
•
Brief
•
Glossary of Sailing Terms….………………………………………
•
Explanation of Symbols and Labels………………………………
1
2
3
4-7
8
GENERAL HANDLING AND OPERATION
•
Safe Boating Tips…………………………………………………..
•
Preliminary Care and Inspection Worksheet…………………….
•
Pre-Departure
•
Float
•
After Sailing Check List………………………………….…………
•
Docking and Anchoring…………………………………………….
•
Diesel Engine and Motoring……………………………………….
•
System……………………………………………………
•
Cook
•
Toilet…….……………………………………………………………
•
Opening Hull Ports………………………………………………….
•
Pumps………………………………………………………………..
•
Water System Operation………………………………….……….
•
Waste
•
Environmental
9-10
11A
11B
12
13
14
15-16
16-18
18
19
19
19
20
20
21-22
MAINTENANCE
•
Instructions on Preparation for Bottom Painting/Epoxy Barrier Coat
•
Engine, Transmission, and Drive Train…………………………
•
Compasses………………………………………………………….
•
Systems…………………………………………………..
•
Electrical
•
Systems………………………………………………….
Systems………………………………………………….
•
Fuel
•
General
•
Fabric
•
Electrolysis and Galvanic Protection……………………………..
•
Teak Care……………………………………………………………
•
Storage/Winterization……………………………………………...
•
Certification
•
Lightning
22
23-24
25
25
25
26
26
27
28
29
29-30
31-33
34
35
1 of 3
HUNTER OWNER ’ S MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONT ’ D)
PAGE DESCRIPTION OF MODEL
Profile with Rig and Sail Dimensions …………………………… ..
Dimensions, Capacities, etc ……………………………………… .
Deck Plan and Hardware ………………………………………… ..
Deck Hardware Parts Listing ………………………………………
Accommodation Plan ……………………………………………… .
Dinette Table Operation ……………………………………………
Lifting Points …………………………………………………………
Running Rigging Layout
……………………………………………
Mainsheet Rigging
…………………………………………………
.
Arch Installation
……………………………………………………
..
Boom and Reefing Details
…………………………………………
Running Rigging Specifications ………………………………… ..
Rig Description …………………………………………………… ..
Standing Rigging Layout …… ...
……………………………………
Spreader Details …………………………………………………… .
Standing Rigging Specifications ………………………………… ..
Standing Rigging Attachments …………………………………… .
Rig Tuning Instructions …………………………………………… .
Spinnaker Details
…………………………………………………
...
Engine Compartment Details
……………………………………
...
Shaft and Propeller
…………………………………………………
36
37
38
39
40A-40C
41A
41B
42A-1&2
43
43
44-45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52-53
54
55
56
SYSTEMS AND CIRCUITS
Potable Water System
……………………………………………
..
Waste System
………………………………………………………
.
Bilge Pumping System
……………………………………………
..
Through Hulls, Seacocks, and Valves ……………………………
Fuel System …………………………………………………………
Propane System …………………………………………………… .
Electrical System
(See Electrical System Table Of Contents)
………
Exhaust System Layout
……………………………………………
Steering System
……………………………………………………
.
Anchoring Arrangement
……………………………………………
PAGE
57
58
59
60
61
62
63A-1
66
67-69
70
2 of 3
HUNTER OWNER ’ S MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONT ’ D)
EQUIPMENT MANUALS AND INFORMATION
Engine Manual
Knotmeter and Depthsouder
VHF Radio (except where not provided)
Compass Information
Stereo Manual
Furling System Manual
Marine Rigging Guide
Winch Maintenance Guide
Steering Maintenance Guide
Sail Maker Information
Water Strainer
Bilge Pump
Toilet Manual
Stove Manual
Hot Water Manual
Microwave Manual (except where not provided)
Other:
3 of 3
Welcome to
THE HUNTER MARINE FAMILY
Congratulations on your new sailing yacht manufactured by Hunter Marine. We have engineered and constructed your boat to be as fine a yacht as any afloat. In order to get the best performance and most enjoyment from your boat you should be familiar with its various elements and their functions. For your sailing pleasure and safety, please take time to study this manual.
We stand behind the quality of your boat with a warranty, which you should review. To insure the validity of your warranty, please complete the attached card and send it to us within ten (10) days of the purchase date. Section 15 of the U.S. Federal Boat Safety Act requires registration of a boat ’ s first owner. The warranty data should also be recorded in the space below for your own reference.
This manual has been compiled to help you operate your craft with safety and pleasure. It contains details of the craft; equipment supplied or fitted, systems, and information on operation and maintenance. Please read it carefully, and familiarize yourself with the craft before using it.
If this is your first sailboat or you are changing to a type of craft you are not familiar with, please ensure that you obtain proper handling and operating experience before you assume command of the craft. Your dealer or national sailing federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sea schools or competent instructors.
PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE AND
HAND IT OVER TO THE NEW OWNER IF YOU SELL
THE CRAFT.
You should also complete the warranty cards for your engine, stove, head, electric water pump and other accessories. These are enclosed in the manufacturers
’
manuals that are packaged with your owner ’ s manual.
OWNER INFORMATION CARD
HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER IS ON THE STARBOARD AFT SIDE OF THE HULL OR TRANSOM.
THIS NUMBER MUST BE GIVEN IN ALL NECESSARY CORRESPONDENCE.
HULL NO. DATE DELIVERED TO OWNER
YACHT NAME
OWNER NAME
STREET ADDRESS
CITY STATE/COUNTRY ZIP CODE
HOME PORT
ENGINE MODEL SERIAL NO. PROPELLER SIZE
DEALER PHONE
STREET ADDRESS
CITY STATE/COUNTRY ZIP CODE
PAGE 1
HUNTER
2006 LIMITED WARRANTY
CUSTOMER SERVICE / WARRANTY
The following warranties apply to all 2006 Model Year boats produced by HUNTER MARINE COR-
PORATION:
LIMITED ONE-YEAR WARRANTY
Hunter Marine warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the warranty period that any part manufactured by Hunter will be free of defects caused by faulty workmanship or materials for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service. During this period, Hunter will repair or replace any part judged to be defective by Hunter, after it is reviewed by the selling dealership.
LIMITED FIVE-YEAR HULL STRUCTURE AND BOTTOM BLISTER WARRANTY
Hunter warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the warranty period that the hull of each boat will be free from structural defects in materials and workmanship for a period of five
(5) years from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service.
This limited warranty applies only to the structural integrity of the hull and the supporting pan/grid or stringer system. Hulls, pan/grid or stringers modified in any way or powered with engines other than the type and size installed or specified by Hunter are not covered by this limited warranty. The obligation of
Hunter under this limited warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of hulls that it determines to be structurally defective. This is your sole and exclusive remedy.
Hunter also warrants to the first-use purchaser and any subsequent owner during the warranty period that the boat will be free from gel-coat blistering on underwater surfaces of the hull, excluding the keel and rudder, for a period of five (5) years from the date of delivery to the first-use purchaser under normal use and service. During this period, Hunter will supply or reimburse an authorized Hunter dealer for all of the parts and labor required to repair a blistered underwater surface of the hull. The labor cost reimbursement will be based on the Labor Allowance Schedule established by Hunter from time to time, however if the repair is performed by a non-Hunter dealer, the repair cost must be authorized by Hunter in advance and be based on a reasonable number of hours as determined by Hunter. Hunter will not pay transportation, hauling, launching, bottom paint, storage, dockage, cradling rental, rigging and derigging, or other similar costs. It is recommended that the repair be done during a seasonal haul out for service or storage.
The following circumstances will void the bottom blister limited warranty:
(1) If the gel-coat has been sanded, sandblasted, or subjected to abrasion or impact.
(2) If the instructions provided in the Hunter Owner's Manual are not followed according to Hunter's required bottom preparation procedures.
PAGE 2A
HUNTER
2006 LIMITED WARRANTY
RESTRICTIONS APPLICABLE TO WARRANTIES
These limited warranties do not cover :
(1.) Paint, window glass, Gelcoat, upholstery damage, plastic finishes, engines, engine parts, bilge pumps, stoves, blowers, pressure water pumps, propellers, shafts, rudders, controls, instruments, keels and equipment not manufactured by HUNTER. Any warranty made by the manufacturer of such items will be, if possible, given on to the first use purchaser.
(2.) Problems caused by improper maintenance, storage, cradling, blocking, normal wear and tear, misuse, neglect, accident, corrosion, electrolysis or improper operation.
(3) Boats used for commercial activities including charter.
THESE LIMITED WARRANTIES ARE YOUR SOLE AND EXCLUSIVE REMEDIES AND ARE
ESPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY AND ALL OTHER REMEDIES AND WARRANTIES EXPRESSED
AND IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR
A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WHETHER ARISING BY LAW, CUSTOM, CONDUCT, OR USAGE
OF TRADE. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW LONG AN IMPLIED
WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. IN THE
EVENT THAT IMPLIED WARRANTIES ARE FOUND TO EXIST UNDER THE LAW OF A PAR-
TICULAR STATE, NOTWITHSTANDING THE EXCLUSION CONTAINED HERIN, THE DURA-
TION OF ANY SUCH IMPLIED WARRANTY SHALL BE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THE
APPLICABLE LIMITED WARRANTY STATED HEREIN. THE PURCHASER ACKNOWLEDGES
THAT NO OTHER REPRESENTATIONS WERE MADE TO HIM OR HER WITH RESPECT TO
THE QUALITY OR FUNCTION OF THE BOAT. ANY ORAL STATEMENT OR PRINTED MATE-
RIAL ADVERTISING THE BOAT WHICH SPEAKS TO ANY PERFORMANCE CHARACTERIS-
TIC OF THE BOAT OR ANY OF ITS COMPONENTS SHALL BE CONSIDERED AND CON-
STRUED AS AN ESTIMATED DESCRIPTION ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE RELIED UPON AS
AN EXPRESS WARRANTY OR AS THE BASIS OF THE BARGAIN FOR THE BOAT OR ANY OF
ITS COMPONENTS.
ANY CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES WHICH MAY BE IN-
CURRED ARE EXCCLUDED AND PURCHASER’S REMEDY IS LIMITED TO REPAIRS OR RE-
PLACEMENT OF ANY PART(S) JUDGED DEFECTIVE BY HUNTER MARINE. SOME STATES
DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL
OR INDIRECT DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY
TO YOU. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO
HAVE OTHER RIGHTS WHICH VARY FROM STATE TO STATE.
PAGE 2B
HUNTER
2006 LIMITED WARRANTY
WARRANTY REGISTRATION
These limited warranties shall not be effective unless the HUNTER Warranty Registration Form and
Pre-Delivery Service Record, which are furnished with each new boat, are filled out completely and returned to HUNTER within ten (10) days of delivery.
Return of the Warranty Registration Form to HUNTER, signed by both Dealer and Owner, is critical.
Warranty coverage cannot be initiated until the completed form is received at HUNTER.
All repairs and/or replacements will be made by an authorized Hunter dealer, or at the option of Hunter, at the Hunter plant. If the repairs are of such a nature that the warranty work must be performed at the
HUNTER plant, transportation costs to and from the HUNTER plant shall be paid by the owner. The labor cost reimbursement will be based on a Labor Allowance Schedule established by HUNTER and where not applicable, on a reasonable number of hours as determined by HUNTER. Any repairs and replacements must be approved in advance by an authorized HUNTER service representative.
TRANSFER OF LIMITED WARRANTIES
For 1995 and later hull numbers, the limited warranties will be transferred to a subsequent purchaser of the boat if:
(1) A notice of the transfer of ownership of the boat is given by the subsequent purchaser in writing to Hunter within thirty (30) days of the transfer.
(2) The notice shall include the name, address and telephone number of the subsequent purchaser, the date of purchase, the hull number and the name of the seller of the boat.
Hunter will mail to the subsequent purchaser notice of the expiration dates of the limited warranties. (see form letter, attached) The transfer of the ownership of the boat will not extend the expiration dates of the limited warranties.
CUSTOMER SATISFACTION SURVEYS
During the first year of ownership, the first purchaser will receive two Customer Satisfaction Surveys - the first (CSS#1) will be received shortly after taking delivery and focuses on the dealer's ability to sell and commission the boat, and the Owner's initial satisfaction. The second survey (CSS#2), nine to ten months into ownership, "measures" dealer service capability and allows the owner to evaluate most of the boat's functional systems and characteristics. Both surveys are dependent upon receipt of the first purchaser's Warranty Registration Form.
PAGE 2C
SAMPLE FORM LETTER
Mr. John Smith
1456 Joy Street
Sarasota, FL 34266
Dear Mr. Smith,
Thank you for providing written notice of transfer of ownership. We are pleased you have selected a Hunter sailboat and we will make every effort to assure Hunter ownership will be a satisfying experience for you.
Based on the information you have provided, we are pleased to notify you of the expiration dates of the limited warranties.
• The limited one-year New Boat warranty expires (d)_____________________.
• The limited five-year Hull Structure and Bottom Blister warranty expires (d)___
____________________.
Should you require assistance at any time during ownership, we encourage you to contact your Hunter dealer or to call us directly at 386-462-3077.
Please confirm the information at the bottom of the page and advise us if any corrections are required.
_____________________________________
Customer Service Manager
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hull No: HUN_________________________ Model:___________________________
Telephone:
(H)________________________(B)________________________________________
Date of Purchase:_______________________________________________________
Purchased From:
Name:___________________________________________________________
Address:_________________________________________________________
City/State_________________________________Zip_____________________
( ) Private Owner ( ) Dealer
PAGE 2D
HUNTER MARINE’S OWNER AND FOUNDER
WARREN R. LUHRS
BRIEF BACKGROUND
Warren Luhrs was born in East Orange,
New Jersey in 1944 into a family with an established tradition in the maritime and transportation industries. His greatgrandfather, Henry, was a railroad and clipper-shipping pioneer in America, while his great-uncle John helped build the famous St. Petersburg to Moscow railroad for Czar Alexander II.
Henry Luhrs owned shares in twentytwo different ocean-going vessels – barks, brigs, and schooners - and was the principal owner of the bark Sophia
R. Luhrs , named for his wife. He was also a partner with Albert Sprout, who managed the shipyard where the Sophia
R. Luhrs was built in Melbridge, Maine.
Warren Luhrs’ father Henry worked at a small boat manufacturer in Morgan,
New Jersey, and later started his own company, continuing the Luhrs’ family sea tradition during the great depression. During World War II he repaired boats and installed ice sheathing on their bows for the Coast Guard.
After the War, Henry built 27-foot fishing boats and in 1948 began to construct custom-built pleasure craft. He then turned to skiffs and in 1952 incorporated as Henry Luhrs Sea Skiffs, where he constructed lapstrake sea skiffs using assembly-line techniques. Henry personally “shook down” his prototypes on family trips up the Hudson River to Lake
Champlain.
The sea skiff is a class of boat that has been very popular, owing to its seaworthiness. It features a sharp bow, which reduces pounding in surf or choppy seas, and a hull whose forward section is rounded below the waterline to increase stability in rough water or a following sea. Such skiffs can either be smooth sided or of a lap strake construction.
Inspired by Henry Ford, Henry Luhrs’ aimed to give the average man the opportunity to enjoy the luxury of boating by building an affordable and reliable boat. He was both designer and engineer, and his progressive new models exhibited his talent for innovation. He successfully changed the line of the bow from straight to curved at a time when the industry trend was a straight square effect, and he is believed to be the first designer-builder to popularize a small boat with a fly bridge.
In 1960, Luhrs acquired the Ulrichsen
Boat Company of Marlboro, New Jersey. It was here that Luhrs’ Alura fiberglass division was located. In 1965,
Henry sold his company to Bangor Arrostook Railroad, which was to become the recreational conglomerate Bangor-
Punta. It was also during this period that
Silverton of Tom’s River, New Jersey was purchased by John and Warren
Luhrs.
Today, Warren R. Luhrs and his brother
John own the Luhrs Group of marine manufacturers, which consists of Silverton Marine, Mainship Motor Yachts, and
Luhrs Fishing Boats with its Alura division, as well as Hunter Marine, which exclusively manufactures sailboats.
In January of 1996, the Luhrs family transferred a portion of the Luhrs Group to its employees through an ESOP program.
PAGE 3
GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS
A
Aback : describes a sail when the wind strikes it on the lee side.
Abaft : towards the boat’s stern.
Abeam : at right angles to the centerline of the boat.
Aft : at or near the stern.
Amidships : the center of the boat, athwartships and fore and aft.
Anti fouling : a poisonous paint compound used to protect the underwater part of a hull from marine growths.
Apparent wind : The direction and speed of the wind felt by the crew. It is a combination of true wind and that created by the movement of the boat.
Astern: behind the boat; to go astern is to drive the boat in reverse.
Athwartships: at right angles to the fore and aft line of the boat.
B
Back : when a wind backs, it shifts anticlockwise.
Back a sail : to sheet it to windward so that the wind fills on the side that is normally to leeward .
Backstay : a stay that supports the mast from aft and prevents its forward movement.
Ballast : extra weight, usually lead or iron, placed low in the boat or externally on the keel to provide stability.
Ballast keel : a mass of ballast bolted to the keel to increase stability and prevent a keel boat from capsizing.
Batten : a light, flexible strip fed into a batten pocket at the leech of the sail to support the roach .
Beam : 1, the maximum breadth of a boat; 2, a transverse member that supports the deck; 3, on the beam means that an object is at right angles to the centerline.
Bear away : to steer the boat away from the wind.
Bearing : the direction of an object from an observer, measured in degrees true or magnetic.
Beat : to sail a zigzag course towards the wind, close-hauled on alternate tacks.
Belay: to make fast a rope around a cleat , usually with a figure-of-eight knot.
Bend: 1, to secure a sail to a spar before hoisting; 2, to moor a boat; 3, a sleeping place on board.
Bight: a bend or loop in a rope.
Bilge: the lower, round part inside the hull where the water collects.
Block: a pulley in a wooden or plastic case, consisting of a sheave around which a rope runs. It is used to change the direction of pull.
Boot-topping: a narrow colored stripe painted between the bottom paint and the topside enamel.
Bottlescrew: see Rigging screw.
Broach: when a boat running downwind slews broadside to the wind and heels dangerously. It is caused by heavy following seas or helmsman’s error.
Broad reach: the point of sailing between a beam reach and a run , when
Chine: the line where the bottom of the hull meets the side at an angle.
Cleat: a wooden, metal or plastic fitting around which rope is secured.
Clevis pin: a locking pin through which a split ring is passed to prevent accidental withdraw.
Clew: the after, lower center of a sail where the foot and leech meet.
Close-hauled: the point of sailing closest to the wind; see also beat .
Close reach: the point of sailing between close-hauled and a beam reach, when the wind blows forward of the beam .
Close-winded: describes a boat able to sail very close to the wind.
Coaming: the raised structure surrounding a hatch, cockpit, etc., which prevents water entering.
Cotter pin: soft, metal pin folded back the wind blows over a quarter.
Bulkhead: a partition wall in a boat on itself to form an eye.
Course: the direction in which a vesnormally fitted athwartships
C sel is steered, usually given in degrees; true, magnetic or compass.
Caulk: to make the seams between wooden planks watertight by filling
Cringle: 1, a rope loop, found at either end of a line of reef points; 2, an eye in a sail.
with cotton, oakum or a compound.
Cavitation: the formation of a vacuum around a propeller, causing a loss in efficiency.
D
Dead run: running with the wind blowing exactly aft, in line with the
Center-board: a board lowered line . centerthrough a slot in the keel to reduce leeway .
Center-line: center of the boat in a fore and aft line.
Center of effort (COE): which all the forces acting on the sails are concentrated.
the point at
Center of lateral resistance (CLR): the underwater center of pressure about which a boat pivots when changing course .
Chain pawl: a short lug which drops
Deviation: the difference between the direction indicated by the compass needle and the magnetic weight in water and is only supported by buoyancy, as opposed to a planning hull which can exceed its hull, or displacement, speed. meridian ; caused by object aboard.
Displacement: 1, the weight of water displaced by a boat is equal to the weight of the boat; 2, a displacement hull is one that displaces its own into a toothed rack to prevent the anchor chain running back.
Chain plate: a metal plate bolted to the boat to which the shrouds or backstays are attached.
Chart datum: reference level on a chart below which the tide is unlikely to fall. Soundings are given below chart datum. The datum level varies according to country and area.
Downhaul: a rope fitted to pull down a sail or spar.
Draft: the vertical distance from the waterline to the lowest point of the keel.
Drag: 1, an anchor drags when it fails to hole; 2, the force of wind on the sails, or water on the hull, which impedes the boat’s progress.
Drift: 1, to float with the current or wind; 2, US the speed of a current
PAGE 4
GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS
(rate UK); 3, UK: the distance a boat is carried by a current in a given time.
Drogue: a sea anchor put over the stern of a boat or life raft to retard drift .
Drop keel: a retractable keel which can be drawn into the hull, when entering shallow waters and recovering on to a trailer.
E
Eye of the wind: direction from which the true wind blows.
F
Fair: well-faired line or surface is smoother with no bumps, hollows or abrupt changes in directions.
Fairlead: a fitting through which a line is run to alter the lead of the line.
Fathom: the measurement used for depths of water and lengths or rope. 1 fathom = 6 ft. or 1.83m.
Fid: a tapered tool used for splicing heavy rope and for sail-making, often hollow.
Fiddle: a raised border for a cabin table, chart table etc., to prevent objects falling off when the boat heels .
Fix: the position of the vessel as plotted from two or more position lines.
Forestay: the foremost stay, running from the masthead to the stemhead, to which the headsail is hanked.
Freeboard: vertical distance between the waterline and the top of the deck.
G
Genoa: a large headsail, in various sizes, which overlaps the mainsail and is hoisted in light to fresh winds on all points of sailing.
Gimbals: two concentric rings, pivoted at right angles, which keeps objects horizontal despite the boat’s motion, e. g. compass and cooker.
Go about: to turn the boat through the eye of the wind to change tack.
Gooseneck: the fitting attaching the boom to the mast, allowing it to move in all directions.
Goosewing: to boom-out the headsail to windward on a run by using a whisker pole to hold the sail on the opposite side to the mainsail.
Ground tackle: general term used for anchoring gear.
Guard rail: a metal rail fitted around the boat to prevent the crew falling overboard.
Gudgeon: a rudder fitting. It is the eye into which the pintle fits.
H
Halyard: rope used to hoist and lower
I
Isobars: lines on a weather map joining places of equal atmospheric pressure.
J
Kicking strap:
L
a line used to pull the boom down, to keep it horizontal, particularly on a reach or run.
Guy: a steadying rope for a spar; a spinnaker guy controls the fore and aft position of the spinnaker pole; the foreguy holds the spinnaker pole forward and down.
Gybe: to change from one tack to another by turning the stern through the wind.
sails.
Hank: fitting used to attach the luff of a sail to a stay.
Hatch: an opening in the deck giving access to the interior.
Hawes pipe: see
Head-topwind:
Headfoil:
Navel pipe .
when the bows are pointing right into the wind.
a streamlined surround to a forestay , with a groove into which a headsail luff slides.
Heads: the toilet.
Headway: the forward movement of a quietly and to reduce headway.
Heaving line: a light line suitable for throwing ashore.
Heel: to lean over to one side.
Lanyard: a short line attached to one object, such as a knife, with which it is secured to another.
Leech: 1, the after edge of a triangle sail; 2, both side edges of a square sail.
Leehelm: the tendency of a boat to bear away from the wind.
Lee shore: a shore on to which the wind blows.
Leeward: away from the wind; the direction to which the wind blows.
Leeway: boat off its wind blowing on one side of the sails.
Lifeline: the bilges
List:
the sideways movement of a
. course as a result of the
a wire or rope rigged around the deck to prevent the crew falling overboard.
Limber holes: gaps left at the lower end of frames above the keel to allow water to drain to the lowest point of a boat’s more or less permanent lean to one side, owing to the imboat through the water.
Heave-to: to back the jib and lash the proper distribution of weight, e.g., ballast or water. tiller to leeward ; used in heavy Log: 1, an instrument for measuring a weather to encourage the boat to lie boat’s speed and distance traveled through the water; 2, to record in a book the details of a voyage, usually distances covered and weather.
Luff: the forward edge of a sail. To luff up is to turn a boat’s head right into the wind.
Luff groove: a groove in a wooden or metal spar into which the luff of a headsail is fed.
Lurch: the sudden roll of a boat.
M Jackstay: a line running fore and aft, on both sides of the boat, to which safety harnesses are clipped.
Jury: a temporary device to replace lost or damaged gear.
K
Keel: the main backbone of the boat to which a ballast keel is bolted or through which the centerboard passes.
Marlin spike: a pointed steel or wooden spike used to open up the strands of rope or wire then splicing.
Mast Step: the socket in which the base of the mast is located.
Measured mile: a distance of one nautical mile measured between buoys or transits/ranges ashore, and marked on the chart.
PAGE 5
GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS
Member: a part of the skeleton of the hull, such as a stringer laminated into fiberglass hull to strengthen it.
Meridian: an imaginary line encircling the Earth that passes through the poles and cuts at right angles through the Equator. All lines of longitude are meridians.
Mizzen: 1, the shorter, after-mast on a ketch or yawl ; 2, the fore and aft sail set on this mast.
N
Navel pipe: a metal pipe in the foredeck through which the anchor chain passes to the locker below.
Position line/ Line of position: a line drawn on a chart, as a result of taking a bearing, along which the boat’s position must be, i.e. two position lines give a fix.
Pulpit: a metal guard rail fitted at the bows of a boat to provide safety for the crew.
Pushpit: a metal guard rail fitted at the stern.
Q
Quarter: the portion of the boat midway between the stern and the beam; on the quarter means about 45 degrees abaft the beam. used in the setting and trimming of sails.
S
Scope: the length of rope or cable paid out when mor anchoring.
Scuppers: 1, holes in the toe rail that allow water to drain off the deck; 2, drain cockpit through hull.
Seacock: a valve that shuts off an underwater inlet or outlet passing through the hull.
Seize: to bind two ropes together, or a rope to a spar , with a light line.
Serve: to cover and protect a splice or part of a rope with twine bound tightly
Noon Sight: a vessel’s latitude can be found, using a sextant, when a heavenly body on the observer’s meridian is at its greatest altitude. The sight of the sun at noon is the one most frequently taken.
O
P
Off the wind: with the sheets slacked off, not close-hauled.
On the wind: close-hauled .
Out haul: a rope used to pull out the foot of a sail.
Overall length (OAL): the boat’s extreme length, measured from the foremost past of the bow to the aftermost part of the stern, excluding bowspirt, self-steering gear etc.
Painter: the bow line by which a dinghy, or tender, is towed or made fast.
Pintle: a rudder fitting with a long pin that fits into the gudgeon to form a hinged pivot for the rudder.
Pitch: 1, the up and down motion of the bows of a boat plunging over the waves; 2, the angle of the propeller blades.
Point of sailing: the different angles from which a boat may sail; the boat’s course relative to the direction of the wind.
Port: the left-hand side of the boat, looking forward (opp. of starboard ).
Port tack: a boat is on a port tack when the wind strikes the port side first and the mainsail is out to starboard.
A boat on the port tack gives way to a boat on a starboard tack.
R against the lay.
Serving mallet: tool with a grooved
Rake: the fore and aft deviation from head, used when serving a rope to the perpendicular of a mast or other keep the twine at a constant and high feature of a boat. tension.
Range: 1, see transit; 2, of tides, the
Set: 1, to hoist a sail; 2, the way in difference between the high and low which the sails fit; 3, the direction of water levels of a tide; 3, the distance tidal current or steam. at which a light can be seen.
Shackle: a metal link with a remov-
Rating: a method of measuring cerable bolt across the end; of various tain dimensions of a yacht to enable it shapes: D, U. to take part in handicap races.
Sheave: a grooved wheel in a block
Reach: to sail with the wind approxior spar for a rope to run on. mately on the beam ; all sailing points
Sheet: the rope attached to the clew between running and close-hauled . of a sail or to the boom, enabling it to
Reef: to reduce the sail area by foldbe controlled or trimmed . ing or rolling surplus material on the
Shrouds: ropes or wires, usually in boom or forestay . pairs, led from the mast to the chain
Reefing pennant: strong line with plates at deck level to prevent the which the luff or leech cringle is pulled mast falling sideways; part of the down to the boom when reefing. standing rigging.
Rhumb line: a line cutting all meridi-
Sloop: a single-masted sailing boat ans at the same angle; the course folwith a mainsail and one head sail. lowed by a boat sailing in a fixed di-
Spar: a general term for any wooden rection. or metal pole, e.g., mast or boom,
Riding light to anchor light: an allused to carry or give shape to sails. around white light, usually hoisted on
Spindrift: spray blown along the surthe forestay, to show that a boat under face of the sea.
50 ft. (15m.)is at anchor. It must be
Spinnaker: a large, light, balloon visible for 2 mls. (3 km.). shaped sail set when reaching or run-
Rigging screw: a deck fitting with ning.
which the tensions of standing rigging,
Splice: to join ropes or wire by unlaye.g. stays, shrouds, etc. are adjusted. ing the strands and interweaving
Roach: the curved part of the leech of them. a sail that extends beyond the direct
Split pin: see cotter pin. line from head to clew.
Spreaders: horizontal struts attached
Run: to run with the wind aft and with to the mast, which extends to the the sheets eased well out.
Running rigging: all the moving shrouds and help to support the mast. lines, such as sheets and halyards ,
PAGE 6
GLOSSARY OF SAILING TERMS
Stall: a sail stalls when the airflow over it breaks up, causing the boat to lose way.
Stanchion: upright metal post bolted to the deck to support guardrails or lifelines.
Standing part: the part of a line not used when making a knot; the part of a rope that is made fast, or around which the knot is tied.
Standing rigging: the shrouds and stays that are permanently set up and support the mast.
Starboard: right-hand side of a boat looking forward (opp. of port ).
Starboard tack: a boat is the starboard tack when the wind strikes the starboard side first and the boom is out to the port .
Stay: wire or rope which supports the mast in a fore and aft direction; part of the standing rigging .
Steerage way: a boat has steerage way when it has sufficient speed to allow it to be steered, or to answer the helm.
Stem: the timer at the bow, from the keel upward, to which the planking is attached.
Sternway: the backward, stern-first movement of a boat.
Stringer: a fore and aft member, fitted to strengthen the frames.
T
Tack: 1, the lower forward corner of a sail; 2, to turn the boat through the wind so that it blows on the opposite sides of the sails.
Tacking: working to windward by sailing close-hauled on alternate courses so that the wind is first on one side of the boat, then on the other.
Tack pennant: a length of wire with an eye in each end, used to raise the tack of a headsail some distance off the deck.
Tackle: a purchase system comprising of rope and blocks that is used to gain mechanical advantage.
Tang: a strong metal fitting by which standing rigging is attached to the mast or other spar .
Tender of dinghy: a small boat used to ferry stores and people to a yacht.
Terminal fitting: fitting at the end of a wire rope by which a shroud or stay can be attached to the mast, a tang or a rigging screw/ turnbuckle .
Tide: the vertical rise and fall of the oceans caused by the gravitational attraction of the moon.
Toe rail: a low strip of metal or molding running around the edge of the deck.
Topping lift: a line from the masthead to a spar, normally the boom, which is used to raise it.
Topsides: the part of a boat’s hull that is above the waterline.
Track: 1, the course a boat has made good; 2, a fitting on the mast or boom into which the slides on a sail fit; 3, a fitting along which a traveller runs, used to alter the angle of the sheets.
Transit: two fixed objects are in transit when seen in line; two transit give position fix.
Traveller: 1, a ring or hoop that can be hauled along a spar ; 2, a fitting that slides in a track and is used to alter the angle of the sheets .
Trim: 1, to adjust the angle of the sails, by means of sheets , so that they work most efficiently; 2, to adjust the boat’s load, and thus the fore and aft angle at which it floats.
True wind: the direction and speed of the wind felt when stationary, at anchor or on land .
Turnbuckle: see Rigging screw .
U
V
Veer: 1, the wind veers when it shifts in clockwise direction; 2, to pay out anchor cable or rope in a gradual, controlled way.
W
Wake: the disturbed water left astern of a boat.
Waterline: the line along the hull at which a boat floats.
Under way: a boat is under way when it is not made fast to shore, at anchor or aground.
Uphaul: a line used to raise something vertically, e.g., the spinnaker pole.
Waterline length (WL): the length of a boat from stem to stern at the waterline . It governs the maximum speed of displacement hull and effects a boats rating .
Weather helm: ( opp. of lee helm ).
Weather side: the side of a boat on which the wind is blowing.
Wetted surface: the area of the hull under water.
Whisker pole: a light pole used to hold out the clew of a headsail when running .
Winch: a mechanical device, consisting usually of a metal drum turned by a handle, around which a line is wound to give the crew more purchasing power when hauling taut a line, e.g. a jib sheet .
Windage: those parts of a boat that increase drag , e.g., rigging, spars, crew, etc.
Windlass: a winch with a horizontal shaft and a vertical handle, used to haul up the anchor chain.
Windward: the direction from which the wind blows; towards the wind
(opp. of leeward).
Y
Yawl: a two masted boat with a mizzen stepped aft of the rudder stock/ post.
PAGE 7
EXPLANATION OF SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This manual contains safety precautions that must be observed when operating or servicing your boat.
Review and understand these instructions.
Denotes an extreme intrinsic hazard exists which would result in high probability of death or irreparable injury if proper precautions are not taken
Denotes a hazard exists which can result in injury or death if proper precautions are not taken
Denotes a reminder of safety practices or directs attention to unsafe practices which could result in personal injury or damage to the craft or components
SAFE BOATING TIPS
BE PREPARED
Take a safe boating course. In the U.S., contact your local Boating Industry for details.
Carry all safety equipment required by the laws that apply to your area. Requirements are generally available from the Coast
Guard or your local boating industry.
As the owner of the craft, obtaining and maintaining necessary safety equipment is your responsibility.
For more information about equipment required, contact local boating authorities.
PAGE 8
SAFE BOATINGTIPS
MINIMUM RECOMMENDED SAFETY EQUIPMENT
•
Required life saving equipment, including life vests and throwables
•
Required fire extinguishing equipment
•
First kit
•
Emergency Position Indicating Radio
Beacon (EPIRB)
•
Manual bailing device
•
Anchor with sufficient line and/or chain
•
Flashlight with good batteries
•
Binoculars
•
VHF
•
Appropriate
•
Flares
• bell
•
Noise emitting device
•
Radar
•
Sufficient food and water provisions
•
Auxiliary starting battery
•
Spare fuses and bulbs
•
Sunglasses block
•
Blanket
The legally required on-board safety equipment may vary by region or body of water. Please check with local authorities prior to departure for a safety examination.
LIFE JACKETS
A life jacket may save your life, but only if you wear it. Keep jackets in a readily accessible place – not in a closed compartment or stored under other gear. Remove them from any packaging, and keep throwable floatation devices ready for immediate use.
It is very important that children, handicapped people, and nonswimmers wear lifejackets at all times. Make sure all passengers are properly instructed in use of life saving gear
FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
Approved fire extinguishers are required on most boats, local authorities can provide details. All passengers should know the location and operating procedure of each fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishers are normally classified according to fire type. Be familiar with the type of fire extinguishers you have on board.
Some boats have been equipped with an Automatic Fire Extinguisher) . In the event of a fire in your engine compartment, this unit will automatically discharge.
Please read your SEA-FIRE manual for operating instructions, maintenance and precautionary information.
BACKUP RUDDER SYSTEM
Rudder failure or loss is something Boat Operators MUST be prepared for. Hunter Marine has a backup rudder system that can be purchased for our current models 38 feet and up. Other commercial suppliers offer similar systems at differing benefits and costs and you should conduct your own analysis to determine which alternative is best for you.
Because the Backup Rudder System may also be lost, Boat Operators MUST be able to sail without rudder or otherwise be prepared to assemble a makeshift rudder.
PAGE 9
SAFE BOATINGTIPS
FLARES
Most boats operating on coastal waters are required to carry approved visual distress signals, therefore check with your local authorities as to which types are required.
FIRE/EXPLOSION HAZARD; Pyrotechnic signaling devices can cause injury and property damage if not handled properly. Follow manufacturer’s directions regarding the proper use of signaling devices.
DRUGS AND BOATING
Consumption of alcohol while boating is not recommended. The combination of noise, sun, wind, and motion act to produce fatigue on the water, and can exaggerate the effects of alcohol.
IMPAIRED OPERATION HAZARD
Operating any boat while is intoxicated or under the influence of drugs is both dangerous and illegal. Impaired vision or judgment on the water can lead to accidents and personal injury
BEFORE GETTING UNDERWAY
•
Leave a float plan (example on p. 12)
•
Perform a pre-departure checklist (example on p. 11)
•
Check the weather. Do not venture out if the weather is, or will be, threatening.
WHILE UNDERWAY
•
Keep a good lookout. Keep a watch to the leeward under the headsail. Keep away from swimmers, divers, and skiers.
•
Know and obey local boating
• laws.
Respect bad weather, and be prepared for quickly changing conditions .
COLLISION HAZARD
Use extra caution in shallow water or where underwater/floating objects may be present.
Hitting an object at speed or severe angle can seriously injure people and damage your boat
PAGE 10
Dear Hunter Owner,
Attached you will find a list of items and recommendations that we believe should be incorporated into your own ongoing list of preventative maintenance items and safety check points. THIS LIST
SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED A COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL OR THE ONLY ITEMS ON
YOUR BOAT IN NEED OF ROUTINE MAINTENANCE, INSPECTION OR ATTENTION.
You will find that we address commonly found optional equipment items installed on Hunter boats, as well as most standard equipment from Hunter Marine. Owner’s need to familiarize themselves with individual equipment manuals on all such items, especially aftermarket purchases or optional equipment installed by your dealer or Hunter Marine. This should insure that you are following the manufacturer’s recommendations for proper maintenance and up-keep.
We strongly recommend that all owners complete a Power Squadron course followed with a complementary boat inspection before leaving the dock. To locate a Power Squadron in your area please visit < www.usps.org
>.
Reviewing and familiarizing yourself with the Chapman’s Piloting Manual is also highly recommended for every boat owner. This manual contains demonstrations for safety drills which should be practiced routinely, dealing with adverse conditions, general boat handling and recommended safety equipment. Our opinion is that no boat owner should operate a boat without first reviewing this manual and without having ready access to it while sailing.
We hope that this list will be beneficial to you in your ongoing maintenance and upkeep. Safe boating!
Thank You
Hunter Marine
PAGE 11A- 1
Preliminary care and maintenance checklist
A qualified Technician should be used if you are not completely confident in your ability to make repairs or inspections.
Out of Water Inspection
Pre-launch inspection
____ Sacrificial zinc anodes installed
____ Propeller installed with keyway, nuts and cotter pin
____ Propeller shaft turns freely and without excess wobble
____ Struts and shaft log free of corrosion
____ Rudder swings easily & correct with wheel direction
____ Rudder and post inspected for cracks and/or concealed damage (may require removing rudder)
____ Auxiliary tiller handle properly aligned, fits securely and operational
____ Backup rudder system complete and operational
____ All thru-hulls and valves below water line inspected for corrosion, labeled and closed
until after launch
____ Bottom paint in satisfactory condition
____ Hull freshly cleaned and waxed (free of gelcoat damage)
____ Mooring, safety lines and fenders onboard and in good condition
____ House & engine start batteries installed and filled with correct electrolyte levels
____ House & engine start battery boxes secured
____ All battery terminals clean and wires secured
____ Engine block & transmission drains closed
____ Speed / Depth transducers in place. Speed paddle wheel rotates smoothly
____ Hose clamps on all systems below water line tight
____ Keel bolts tight and clean
____ Exhaust hose attached and secured
____ Boat is free of internal and external water leaks above water line (Failure to stop water intrusion could result in permanent damage or deterioration of structural coring materials, internal wiring and cause mildew and molding)
PAGE 11A- 2
Mast Assembly
____ Review manufacturers manual for maintenance and up-keep
____ Spreaders securely fastened
____ Mast and spreaders free of corrosion and stress cracks
____ Standing rigging and pins inspected for wear, tear, corrosion and cracking
____ External wiring secured for anchor, steaming and deck lights
____ Electronic wind indicator installed per manufacturers recommendation
____ Manual wind indicator installed on masthead
____ VHF antenna installed and connected
____ Headsail furling system installed inspected per manufacturers recommendation
____ Running rigging inspected for wear and tear
____ Mast step stand-up blocks secured and operational
____ Main Sail, jib sail and flaking system inspected for wear and tear (non-furling mast). In-mast system checked for smooth operation and overall condition of sails
____ Specified pre-bend and diagonal tensions attained in mast. See owners manual
____ Mast to deck wiring properly sealed with drip loop
Anchor System and Ground Tackle
____ Anchor windlass inspected per manufacturers recommendation
____ Anchor secured in bow roller assembly
____ Spare anchor onboard and accessible. See Chapman’s Manual for recommendations on anchors, anchor lines and drogues
____ Anchor line pays out and retrieves into anchor locker without difficulty
____ Bitter end of anchor line secured
____ Anchor rode inspected and free of abrasions
____ Anchor chain shackle lock-wired at pin after secured to anchor and corrosion free
____ Anchor locker hatch secures properly with anchor and line in place
____ Anchor locker free of debris inside
____ Anchor locker drains open
Fuel System
____ Tank fuel level indicator functioning properly
____ Fuel clean and treated with engine manufacturers recommended additives
____ Primary and secondary filters cleaned or replaced
____ Fuel tank supply valves open
____ Fuel tank vent clear from tank to atmosphere (hose has anti-siphoned loop in place at
hull or deck side)
Steering System
____ Inspect and service steering system according to manufacturer’s recommendation
____ Clean and grease autopilot drive chains
____ Ensure compass light is operational
PAGE 11A- 3
____ Manual bilge pumps
Primary Pumps Functional
____ Electric bilge pumps and float switches (discharge hose has anti-siphon loop in place
to prevent back flow under sail)
____ Macerator pumps
____ Fresh water pumps
____Toilet flush pumps
____ Shower sump pumps
____ High water bilge alarm pump
Illumination and small electrical components check
____ Bow light
____ Cabin lights
____ Stern light
____ Deck light
____ Instrument lamps
____ Masthead light
____ Chart light
____ Anchor light
____ Courtesy lights
____ Reading lights
____ Distribution panel lights
____ Smoke detectors operational
____ CO detectors operational (one per cabin recommended)
____ Engine & generator room blower operational
____ Auto fire suppression system operational (engine compartment)
____ Shore power cord and adapter plug operational. See manufacturer’s manual for complete details
____ 110 or 220 VAC outlets operational – Ground fault circuits functioning
____ 110 or 220 VAC inverter/battery charging systems functioning properly
____ Cockpit control systems operational
Fresh Water Systems
____ Hot water heater drains shut
____ All spigots and hose bibs shut
____ All tanks flushed clean and free of debris and antifreeze
____ Water heater tank and lines flushed of antifreeze
____ All water lines and components purged of air and checked for leaks
____ Sinks and drains checked for leaks and adequate flow
____ Cockpit shower operational
____ Fresh water filters clean
____ Tank water level indicator systems operating – labeling and tank valve selection correspond
PAGE 11A- 4
Head and Holding Tank Systems
____ Vent clear from tank to atmosphere
____ Filled with fresh water and test pumped with macerator
____ Toilets flush to holding tanks properly
____ Waste level indicating system properly functioning
____ No leaks at any hose fitting within the system
Galley Systems
____ Gas bottle filled installed and connected to regulator. Inspect Gas system for leaks after 3 minutes. Should a leak be detected, immediately close the main valve, exit boat and seek professional assistance for a thorough inspection.
____ Stove and oven operational. Refer to manufacturer’s manual for proper operation and trouble shooting.
____ Gimbal latch secure and operational
____ LPG stowage locker drain open and tank storage area free of debris.
____ Microwave operational
____ Refrigerator operational and proper temperature attained
____ Freezer operational and proper temperature attained
____ USCG waste disposal-warning poster onboard or in owner’s package
____ Icebox drains to sump or bilge properly
____ Icebox drain plugs installed
Topside Inspection
____ Swim seats / ladders / gates operational
____ Swim seat latch operating correctly
____ Cockpit hatches operate properly (adjustments should be made with boat in water)
____ Canvas properly cleaned and installed
____ Cockpit cushions cleaned and installed
____ Lifeline fittings tight and secure
____ Rubrail sealed secured to hull
____ Sliding hatches drains free of debris
____ Companionway drop-ins fit properly in companionway and stowage rack
____ Load bearing hardware sealed and securely fastened. This includes but is not limited to chainplates, winches and handrails
____ Traveler arch sealed and securely fastened. Stainless Steel models should be properly grounded, see owners manual for details
____ Plexiglas hatches, ports, windscreens and windows adjusted and cleaned. Cleaners and polishers specifically for Plexiglas can be purchased from most marine supply stores
____ External teak cleaned and oiled (Teak decking cleaned with mild soap and water)
____ External railings cleaned with soap and water then hand polished using automotive wax
____ All deck fill caps seal properly and have retainer chains intact (except Waste Pump-out)
____ Dorade vents or sealing caps installed
____ Topside surface clean and free of gelcoat damage
PAGE 11A- 5
Interior Inspection
____ Drop-in hatches for bunks and floors in place and fit securely
____ Interior steps and grab rails secured
____ Bilges clean and free of debris
____ Opening port and hatch screens in place
____ Blinds / privacy curtains, shades and interior cushions cleaned, installed and secured
____ All doors open / shut / latch properly
____ Insure all wires and connection on distribution panels are tight (should be
professionally inspected)
____ Television / VCR operational
____ Stereo / Tape / CD operational
____ Chapman’s Manual onboard and readily available
____ Safety gear onboard readily available and up to date. See Chapman’s Manual and US
Coast Guard website at < www.uscg.mil
>for details.
____ Boat owner’s manual onboard
PAGE 11A- 6
In Water Inspection
Dockside inspection of Engine, Pre-start sequence and operating system
____ Review engine manual for maintenance requirements and proper starting procedure
____ Propeller shaft properly aligned (per engine manual)
____ Shaft to engine coupling bolted and properly torque (per engine manual)
____ All engine mounting bolts in place and properly torque (per engine manual)
____ Crankcase oil at full mark (per engine manual)
____ Transmission fluid / oil at full mark (per engine manual)
____ Coolant mix ratio proper – heat exchanger and expansion tanks full (per engine
manual)
____ Seawater intake valve open and no leaks
____ Air bled from fuel lines and system
____ No fuel leaks at any fittings
____ Throttle linkages smooth and operational
____ Shutdown system operational
____ USCG Oil Discharge warning poster in place
____ Exhaust elbows and hoses tight
____ Starting sequence and alarms correct
____ Oil pressure acceptable (per engine manual)
____ Coolant temperature acceptable (per engine manual)
____ Alternator DC output at rated rpm (per engine manual)
____ Correct Idle rpm (per engine manual)
____ Water discharged with exhaust
____ Hour meter operational
____ Fuel level indicators operational
____ Throttle cable tension set properly
____ Shifter operation correct
____ Neutral safety start switch operational
____ No inboard exhaust gas leaks
____ No fuel / oil / water leaks on engine
____ Shaft packing / Drip free Seal adjusted and locknuts tight. One to three drips per minute with shaft turning on traditional packing assembly
____ Engine box installed and secured
Dockside inspection of Generator,
Pre-start sequence and operating system
____ Review and follow manufacturer’s manual for maintenance and up-keep
____ Seawater strainer water-tight and clean
____ No leaks in fuel system - Fuel filters clean
____ Lube oil at full mark
____ Coolant level full – proper mix ratio with water (per generator manual)
____ Seawater discharge overboard with exhaust gas
____ No inboard water or exhaust gas leaks
____ Proper voltage output to distribution panel (per generator manual)
____ Ship / Shore power transfer panel function properly
____ Starter battery box secured
____ Starter battery cable connections clean and tight
____ Starting battery electrolyte level proper
PAGE 11A- 7
Climate Control System
____ Review and follow manufacturers manual for maintenance and up-keep
____ Seawater strainer water tight and clean
____ Seawater pump air purged and operational
____ Seawater flow adequate fwd and aft
____ Fwd system functions properly in all modes of operation
____ Aft system functions properly in all modes of operation
____ No seawater leaks in system components and lines
____ No condensation leaks to deck or liner
____ Air return/intake filters clean and clear
____ 110 or 220 VAC 30 amp shore power wired correctly at dock
____ Remote control units and display features operate correctly
____ Condensation drains open
Dockside Pre-sail inspection
____ Standing rigging tuned statically – all fittings pinned and secured (re-check after sailing)
____ Genoa installed and furling system operational
____ Main sail installed and operates smoothly
____ Main sail flaking system properly adjusted
____ All reefing points attained properly
____ Topping lift and outhaul operational
____ Sheets / Blocks / Winches operate correctly and easily under load
____ Genoa Car travels freely full length on tracks port and starboard
____ All line stoppers operational and labeled
____ Calibrate all electronic equipment and compass to geographical area.
____ VHF operational
____ Battery negative to keel ground voltage check. Mast and arch must be installed for this
check. This will verify no wires have shorted out to your keel/lighting ground system.
digital multimeter required .
____ Dockside water connection operable and free of leaks
____ Complete safety package onboard and up-to date (see Chapman’s manual and US
Coast Guard rules and regulations)
____ Secure and evenly distribute all loose equipment and weight
____ Complementary onboard inspection made by local Power Squadron
Date of inspection: _____________________________
Inspection made by _____________________________
PAGE 11A- 8
(Several copies may be required to complete each of the following categories)
Chapman’s Piloting recommended operating techniques, maintenance inspections and safety points for my particular boat length and type of sailing
PAGE 11A- 9
Recommendations made by manufacturers of original equipment for proper maintenance and up-keep
PAGE 11A- 10
Power Squadron recommendations for maintenance and safe boating
PAGE 11A- 11
Local sailing club or marina’s recommendations for maintenance and up-keep
PAGE 11A- 12
List of onboard safety equipment and location
(A copy should be posted onboard at all times)
PAGE 11A- 13
Spare parts list
PAGE 11A- 14
Dates of practice drills and onboard safety inspections
PAGE 11A- 15
MY PERSONAL PREFERENCES FOR MAINTENANCE ITEMS & SAFETY GEAR
PAGE 11A- 16
PRE-DEPARTURE CHECKLIST
Check bilge for extra water
Check weather conditions and tides
Check food supply
Foul weather gear
Linen, sleeping bags
Fuel
Water
Sunscreens and sunglasses
Tools
Docking and anchor gear
Check radio operations
Navigation charts and instruments
Float plans to a friend or Coast Guard ( see next page )
Fuel for stove
Cooking and eating utensils
Check battery water level
Oil level, tight V-belts
Check for loose electrical connections in engine compartment
Secure tools or any loose equipment in engine compartment so as not to get fouled in engine
AC systems off; electrical cord stowed
Doors and drawers secured
Check steering lock to lock
Check mast for rigging irregularities and tightness
Halyards and sheets are clear and ready to run
No lines or other obstructions near propeller or bow
Anchor ready to run
Check lifelines for tightness
Turn on fuel and waterlines
Stow all loose gear
Open engine cooling water intake thru-hull valve
PAGE 11B
FLOAT PLAN
1. Name of person reporting and telephone number:
2. Description of boat
NAME TYPE
MAKE LENGTH REGISTRATION#
HULL COLOR STRIPE COLOR DECK COLOR
OTHER DISTINGUISHING MARKS
3. Number of Persons aboard
NAME AGE PHONE #
ADDRESS
NAME AGE PHONE #
ADDRESS
NAME AGE PHONE #
ADDRESS
4. Engine
TYPE H.P. FUEL CAPACITY
5. Safety equipment
PFDs Flares Mirror Flashlight
Food Water EPIRB Raft/Dinghy
6. Radio
TYPE FREQUENCIES
7. Trip Expectations
DEPARTURE TIME DATE FROM
DESTINATION RETURN DATE NO LATER THAN
8. Automobile:
LICENSE # STATE
COLOR PARKED AT
MAKE
9. If not returned by-
Contact the Coast Guard or-
CALL - AT-
PAGE 12
AFTER SAILING CHECKLIST
When leaving your Hunter at the dock for more than a short time, it is a good idea to review the following checklist to make sure everything is in order. This will help protect the various parts of your boat and add considerably to their attractiveness and usable life.
handles, etc.
sheet purchase. (It is also a good idea to rig a line from the steering wheel or
tiller to a convenience cleat to keep the rudder from swinging back and forth
with the motion of the water or employ the wheel brake if so equipped.)
slack. Find a location leading away from the mast to keep the halyard from
slapping the mast.
days or more
stainless, particularly if you have operated in saltwater.
PAGE 13
SAFE BOATING TIPS
Docking your boat should be handled carefully to avoid potential damage. Under normal wind and water conditions, the following considerations should be made:
1. Whenever possible, your approach should be made against the prevailing wind and current to assist in stopping the boat. Where these conditions are contrary, the strongest should be used to determine approach.
2. Approaching the dock: dock lines should be at ready, loose gear stowed and decks cleared. Determine the direction of the wind and current and when you decide which side of the boat will be against the dock, rig dock lines and
DOCKING
fenders on the appropriate side. One dock line should be attached to the bow cleat, another to the stern cleat opposite the side that will lie against the dock.
NOTE: If the boat is to lie against a piling, rig a fender board across two or more pilings.
3. Tying up: attach bow and stern lines to dock, hauling boat in with fenders against dock. Rig crossing spring lines to limit motion forward and aft. Be sure to allow some slack in all lines to compensate for tidal activity if present.
Never use bow rail, stern rail, or stanchions to secure a vessel, even for brief periods. For other types of moorings, or for abnormal wind or water conditions, consult an approved boating guide.
ANCHORING
Your Hunter comes with an on deck anchor well and a Danforth type anchor as standard equipment. The anchor is selected to suit the size and weight of your boat under normal anchoring conditions, and is most effective in muddy or sandy bottoms.
When anchoring, pay particular attention to the scope of your anchor rode (the relationship between of the water and the length of the rode). A good rule of thumb is to allow a scope of about 7:1 (a rode seven times as long as the vertical distance from the bow to the bottom). A helpful aid is to mark the rode every 20 feet or so with knots or other types of indicators. Before dropping anchor, make sure the bitter end is secured to the cleat in the anchor well. Also, be sure to consider wind direction, currents, mean low tide depths and other local conditions when anchoring, as well as positions of any boats already anchored nearby.
To weigh anchor, motor or sail (under main only) forward slowly. When at a point directly above the anchor, a quick tug should free it from the bottom. Take care not to damage the topsides when hauling.
Anchoring in unusual water/ and or weather conditions will require additional precautions. Consult an approved guide for suggestions
PAGE 14
SAFE BOATING TIPS
DIESEL ENGINE
An engine owner's manual is supplied with your boat and should be read thoroughly. It contains technical specifications, running instructions and a maintenance schedule on lubricants and fluids.
For long engine life, follow routine maintenance schedules.
You should check engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant levels. Water, rust, scale and dirt will cause serious damage to the injectors on diesel engines. You should check your filters frequently and change when necessary. Check fuel line connections for proper tightness.
EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD – Fuel system connections that are too loose or too tight can leak, resulting in fuel loss, environmental pollution and explosion/fire
EXTREME HAZARD: carbon monoxide gas (CO) is colorless, odorless and extremely dangerous. All engines and fuel burning appliances produce CO as exhaust. Direct and prolonged exposure to
CO will cause BRAIN DAMAGE or
DEATH. Signs of exposure to CO include nausea, dizziness and drowsiness. Refer to BOATING SAFETY for more information.
When you start your engine, run it a minimum of 15 minutes to bring it up to operating temperature. This insures that any condensation is evaporated. Your engine should “run out” at ¾ throttle at least once a month to clean out carbon buildup and moisture. hazard.
FUELING YOUR DIESEL ENGINE
EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD
•
Store flammable material in safetyapproved containers. Keep containers in a locker designed by the boat manufacturer for that purpose. Never store flammable material in a non-vented space.
•
Observe “No-Smoking” while fueling.
•
Run exhaust blower at least 4 minutes before starting engine. Check bilge and engine compartments for fumes.
•
Keep ventilation system free of obstructions. Never modify the vent system.
•
Fill less than the rated capacity of the tank. Allow for fuel expansion.
•
If fuel enters bilge, do not start engine.
Determine cause and severity. Contact a knowledgeable marine service to remove fuel. Do not pump overboard. Contact
Coast Guard for additional advice (See
Environmental Considerations Fuel & Oil
Spillage.)
•
Inspect fuel system regularly for leaks.
Follow engine manufacturer’s recommendations for types of fuel and oil. Use of improper products can damage the engine and void the warranty.
Notice: Use fresh fuel. Fuel that has been in a tank too long can form gum and varnish, which may affect performance.
Inspect diesel fuel filters regularly. Diesel fuel must be kept as clean as possible. Keep fuel tank full.
PAGE 15
SAFE BOATING TIPS
STARTING YOUR DIESEL ENGINE
1. Visually check engine compartment to see that the throttle linkage, shifting controls, electrical connections and fuel lines are properly secured.
2. Before each start check oil in engine and transmission.
3. Insure that the engine shut-off cable is properly secured and operating.
4. Place the shift lever in the neutral position. Pull out the button beside the shift lever to disengage the shift. On single lever controls, lift the collar under the shift lever knob and move the lever forward to advance the throttle for neutral warm-up.
5. Insert the starter key and turn to the
“on” position.
6. Press the starter button and hold until engine starts, then release. The buzzer and/or light should then go off. Press the starter button no longer than 5 seconds continuously.
7. Allow cold engine to warm up a minimum of five minutes.
8. When warm-up is completed, return the hand lever to neutral position, and push the button back to re-engage the shift.
The shift is ready for shift and throttle operation.
9. Check that the lube oil pressure warning light and the charge lamp go off. If any of the warning lamps do not go off above 1,000 rpm, the engine is malfunctioning and should be stopped immediately. Consult your nearest engine dealer.
NOTE: The H386 and below are equipped with an “engine stop” pull lever. When pulled all the way out, this will stop the engine at any time.
Follow engine manufacturer’s recommendations for types of fuel and oil. Use of improper products can damage the engine and void the warranty.
MOTORING YOUR DIESEL ENGINE
Before departure, remember to unplug the shore power. When the engine is warm, but prior to releasing the dock lines, move the shift lever to forward and to reverse to insure that it is working properly. To increase RPMs, push throttle lever forward and pull back to decrease RPMs.
IMPORTANT: When sailing, it is best to start the engine before the sails are lowered. This way, it is possible to maneuver if the engine should not start. and safe manner as desired.
Your rigging will conduct electricity. Always check for overhead high tension wires before proceeding. Once clear, you may increase your speed in a reasonable
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Your Hunter is fitted with an electrical system designed for both AC and DC. While in port, you can operate any tool, appliance or other device designed to function on regular house current simply by plugging your dockside power cord into a convenient outlet on shore and turning your
AC main breaker on.
ELECTROCUTION HAZARD: If polarity is reversed, DO NOT use the shore power source. Immediately turn off the power source and disconnect the shore power cord. Reversed polarity is a dangerous and potentially lethal condition that may cause shock, electrocution, or death.
PAGE 16
SAFE BOATING TIPS
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (continued)
To minimize shock hazard, connect and disconnect cable as follows:
1. Turn off the boat’s shore power connection before connecting or disconnecting shore power cable.
2. Connect shore power cable at the boat first.
3. If polarity warning indicator is activated, immediately disconnect cable and have the fault corrected by a qualified electrician.
4. Disconnect shore power cable at shore outlet first.
5. Close inlet cover tightly.
DO NOT ALTER SHORE POWER CA-
BLE CONNECTORS.
Storage: Your shore power cable set is intended for use outdoors. To prolong the life of the set, store indoors when not in use.
General: The metallic parts of your cable set are made to resist corrosion. In a salt-water environment, periodically wiping the exposed parts with fresh water, drying and spraying with a moisture repellent can increase life of the product.
A soiled cable can be cleaned with a grease cutting household detergent. A periodic application of vinyl protector to both ends will help to maintain cables original appearance.
In case of salt water immersion, rinse plug end and/or connector end thoroughly in fresh water, shake or blow out excess water and allow to dry. Spray with moisture repellent before re-use.
Do not allow your dockside power cord to come in contact with the water. Never operate any AC power tool or other electrical
When leaving port, disconnect the dockside power cord and turn the main DC breaker on. This allows you to use the ship’s lights and other equipment designed to operate on direct current.
Keep in mind that your DC power source is a 12-volt battery, just as with your automobile, and it must be charged regularly by operating the engine (or by running the battery charger, if you have that option installed). Unless a state of charge is maintained, there may not be enough power to operate the starter motor. Dangerous situations can result if the engine cannot be started when needed.
Make a regular visual check of batteries to insure proper water level and inspect terminals for signs of corrosion. If your boat sits for long periods without use, it is often a good idea to remove the batteries and attach them to a trickle charger to keep them fully charged and ready to use.
EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD – ensure adequate ventilation of battery to prevent buildup of gases, especially hydrogen.
WHEN CHARGING THE BATTERY:
•
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid.
Protect your eyes, skin and clothing. In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water and get prompt medical attention, especially if your eyes are affected.
•
Batteries generate hydrogen gas that can be highly explosive. Do not smoke or allow flames or sparks near a battery, esequipment while you or the devices are in contact with the water, as this may cause electrocution resulting in shock or death.
pecially during charging.
•
Charge the battery in a fully ventilated place.
PAGE 17
SAFE BOATING TIPS
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (continued)
Hunter Marine recommends that on all boats with either/both a house and start battery, the cables be disconnected during winter storage or any time the boat is out of the water for an extended period of time. Because of the continuous electrical drain placed on the 12 volt system by certain electrical components such as stereos and CO monitors you will be preserving your batteries life expectancies.
We recommend that owners who leave their boats in the water during the sailing season charge the boats internal batteries at least once every seven days during the sailing season (we do not recommend leaving power connected to the boat if it is unattended). Completely depleting a batteries internal charge can drastically shorten its life span. This includes gel cell and glass mat batteries.
For owners who live aboard or wish to leave their boat battery switches in the on position while unattended (again, we do not recommend this) should consider installing a N20504W Nicro Solar vent to reduce the chances of the CO monitor’s sounding. Only exchanging the air inside the boat on a regular basis or leaving the battery switches in the off position totally eliminates the false sounding of the monitors while 12-volt systems are operating.
COOKING STOVE
EXPLOSION/FIRE/ASPHYXIATION
HAZARD
•
Open flame cooking appliances consume oxygen. This can cause asphyxiation or death.
•
Maintain open ventilation.
•
Liquid fuel may ignite, causing severe burns.
•
Use fuel appropriate for type of stove.
•
Turn off stove burner before filling.
•
Do not use stove for comfort heating.
•
Use special care with flames or high temperatures near urethane foam. Once ignited, it burns rapidly, producing extreme heat, releasing hazardous gasses and consuming a large amount of oxygen .
Carefully read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions prior to operating your stove. Save the instructions for review, and also to pass on to any subsequent owners.
Use only the fuel recommended by the manufacturer, and store the fuel in an approved container.
Do not smoke while working with fuel.
Immediately clean up any spilled fuel.
PAGE 18
SAFE BOATING TIPS
TOILET
IMPORTANT: When not in use, lever •
There is a possibility of being fined for must be left in the “dry” position to prevent having an operable direct overboard disflooding. charge of waste in some waters. Removing seacock handle, in closed position, or
Before using, place the lever in the “wet” position and pump slowly to partly fill and other means must be used to avoid fine.
•
It is illegal for any vessel to dump plastic wet the inside of the bowl. Return to the trash anywhere in the ocean or navigable
“dry” position. waters of the United States.
After using, return the lever to the “wet” position for flushing and pump until the bowl is thoroughly cleaned. Continue with several more full strokes to flush disDo not place facial tissue, paper towels or charge lines. Return lever to “dry” position and pump slowly until bowl is empty. sanitary napkins in head. Such material can damage the waste disposal system and the environment.
OPENING HULL PORTS
If your boat is equipped with opening hull ports, they must remain closed and secured while under sail. Your boat could take on water when it heels, causing damage to the interior due to flooding or even possible sinking of your vessel.
All hull ports must remain closed and secure while sailing .
PUMPS
All pumps should be checked frequently to insure proper operation. This is an especially important regular maintenance item since a properly operating pump could save your vessel from serious damage . tight. Check that the bilge pump impeller area is clean and free of obstructions. Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion. Ensure that the float switch functions properly.
Run pump only as long as necessary to remove water. Dry running can damage the pump motor
SINKING HAZARD – Ensure proper bilge pump operation.
Inspect all bilge pump hoses for chafing and dry rot. See that all hose clamps are
PAGE 19
SAFE BOATING TIPS
WATER SYSTEM OPERATION
Fill fresh water tank at deck fill. The tank filler cap will be marked “water”. When tank is full, water will back up through the vent hose and exit through a vent located on the side of the hull. Use tank gauge for filling. D.C. main should be turned on first.
To activate the water system, turn on D.C. main, flip the “water pressure” switch on the electrical panel. This will start the pump and pressurize the system. When the pressure builds, the pump will shut off.
With continued use of fresh water the pressure in the system is reduced, automatically restarting the pump. Make sure there is water in the system while pump is in operation to prevent damage to the motor. The pump will also run if a leak develops in the system.
NOTE: Intermittent operation of the freshwater pump while all faucets are closed usually indicates a leak somewhere in the lines. Trace the lines to locate the leak and repair.
The water heater operates either on 120 or 240 volts AC or when the engine is running. To obtain hot water from the engine, it must run a minimum of one-half hour.
Pressure water pumps are the demand type. Once the circuit breaker switch is on, opening the faucet will produce water flow.
To operate shower, turn on hot and cold faucets until desired temperature is reached, while the showerhead is retracted at sink. Pull the showerhead out and use. The faucets must be turned off to prevent system drainage.
Opening the faucet will allow the pump to empty the tank. Flushing the tank and lines will be necessary for winterization.
Refer to Maintenance & Winterization section for more information.
SINKING HAZARD –To ensure the safety of your vessel, always disconnect shore water and power connections when leaving your boat unattended.
Run pump only as long as necessary to remove water. Dry running can damage the pump motor
WASTE DISCHARGE
The Hunter is equipped with a head waste holding tank, hose lines, and thrufittings for either overboard discharge, using the standard equipped hand pump, deck pump out at dockside or
Macerator Pump. Tank levels will be indicated on the gauge located below the main electrical panel. Familiarize yourself with the locations of the deck pump out, overboard discharge thru-hull, and vent locations pictured in the Waste Water System section, as well as your local boating regulations concerning the overboard discharge of raw sewage.
PAGE 20
ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS
FUEL AND OIL SPILLAGE
The spilling of fuel or oil into our waterways contaminates the environment and is dangerous to wildlife. Never discharge or dispose of fuel or oil into the water. It is dangerous and unlawful. Two common types of accidental discharge are overfilling the fuel tank and pumping contaminated bilge water into the sea.
EXPLOSION/FIRE/POLLUTION HAZARD:
Fill fuel tank to less than rated capacity.
Overfill forces fuel out the tank vents, which can cause explosion fire, or environmental pollution. Also allow for fuel expansion
DISCHARGE AND DISPOSAL OF WASTE
Waste means all forms of garbage, plastics, recyclables, food wood, detergents, sewage, and even fish parts in certain waters. We recommend that you bring back everything you take out with you for proper disposal ashore.
Your marine holding tank (if so equipped) must, in many areas, be pumped out by an approved pump-out facility normally found at marinas.
EXHAUST EMISSIONS
Hydrocarbon exhaust emissions pollute our water and air. Keep your engine properly tuned to reduce emissions and improve performance and economy.
ANTI-FOULING PAINTS
The use of anti-fouling paints is common for boats kept in water. Be aware of environmental regulations that may govern your paint choice.
These regulations may affect which paint may be used, and also the application or removal. Contact your local boating authorities for more information
EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD :
Ventilate when painting or cleaning.
Ingredients may be flammable and/or explosive.
CLEANING CHEMICALS
Cleaning chemicals should be used sparingly and not discharged into waterways. Never mix cleaners and be sure to use plenty of ventilation in enclosed areas. Do not use products that contain phosphates, chlorine, solvents, non-biodegradable or petroleum-based products.
Common households cleaning agents may cause hazardous reactions. Fumes can last for hours, and chemical ingredients can attack people, property and the environment.
PAGE 21
ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS (CONT.)
A wide variety of components used on this vessel contains or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects and other reproductive harm .
EXAMPLES INCLUDE:
•
Engine and generator exhaust
•
Engine and generator fuel, and other liquids such as coolants and oil, especially used motor oil.
•
Cooking fuels.
•
Cleaners, paints, and substances used for vessel repair.
•
Waste materials that result from wear of vessel components.
•
Lead from battery terminals and from other sources such as ballast or fishing sinkers.
TO AVOID HARM:
•
Keep away from engine, generator, and cooking fuel exhaust fumes.
•
Wash areas thoroughly with soap and water after handling the substances above.
California Health & Safety Code 25249.5-.13
INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARATION FOR BOTTOM PAINTING WARNING!
Do not use any sanding, sandblasting or other abrahull blistering warranty. See the warranty information sive reparation of the bottom, as this will void your at the beginning of this manual.
BOTTOM PAINTING
Choose a bottom paint system that suits the envifor preparing and painting the bottom varies between ronment in your area.
Follow the procedure recommended by the manufacturer of the paint, while making sure not to void the Hunter Hull Blistering Warranty. The procedure paint manufacturers, but should always include dewaxing, etching and sometimes priming of the surface.
EPOXY BARRIER COAT
Sanding of the gel coat bottom surface will be permitted should a customer wish to have an epoxy barrier coat applied to the hull, (example Interlux In-
Cleaning agents and paint ingredients may be terprotect 1000, 2000, West System or VCTar). This will not void the Five-Year Blister Warranty.
Hunter Marine refers to epoxy barrier coatings as mentioned above, not epoxy primer paints. flammable and/or explosive, or dangerous to inhale. Be sure to use adequate ventilation, and appropriate safety clothing.
(gloves, safety glasses, respiration, etc)
If an epoxy barrier coat is applied to a Hunter vessel, it must be registered with the Warranty Department prior to application of the product. If the dealer applies bottom paint only, sanding will not be allowed and the no sanding system must be used.
PAGE 22
ENGINE, TRANSMISSION & DRIVETRAIN
ENGINE
Follow the fuel and lubrication requirements in the Engine Manual. Check the engine oil level before and after operation and use a quality motor oil (refer to Engine Manual).
Be certain the proper amount of oils is in the crankcase at all times
Engine Alignment: the engine should be aligned by experienced marine service personnel. Final alignment should be done after launching, with all normal gear aboard. A description of the procedure follows:
The coupling flanges must come together evenly at all points, a feeler gauge is used to check the gap. If adjustment is necessary, the engine is tilted up or down and/or sideto-side until the flanges meet evenly. Severe vibration will result from misalignment and can cause strut bearing and shaft damage.
Alignment should be checked again after several weeks of use. Routine checks of coupling bolts are a must to ensure they are tight.
Shaft Alignment:
1. Separate the coupling, move the shaft end back to clear the pilot in the center.
2. Establish the shaft in the center of the shaft log by raising the shaft until it touches the top of the log – note position – lower the shaft until it touches the bottom of the log – note position – repeat sideways and locate shaft in the center; block shaft in this position, using a block of wood under the shaft packing gland.
3. Now, adjust the engine mounts to allow the pilot on the coupling halves to slip together without moving shaft up down or sideways.
4. Adjust the engine mounts as necessary until a .004
” feeler gauge will not enter anywhere along the edge of the flange between the faces.
5. Tighten the locks on the adjustable mounts
6. Recheck coupling with feeler, readjust if necessary.
7. Check stuffing box (allow to drip 3 to 5 drops per minute).
Any questions or problems concerning the engine, please contact the U.S. distributor,
Mastery Marine at (727) 522-9471, or your local Yanmar service agent.
TRANSMISSION
Follow the lubrication requirements of the engine manual. The oil level should be checked immediately after operation.
STUFFING BOX
The stuffing box is held to the stern bearing by a rubber hose secured with hose clamps.
(See the Shaft and Propeller section). The clamps should be tight and no water should leak from this location. While underway a slight drip from the stuffing box at the shaft exit is necessary (three to five drops a minute) and is normal. To adjust, loosen the locknut, tighten the gland nut one-quarter turn, a retighten the locknut. If excessive water flow persists after adjustment, replace the packing with 3/16 ” (or 5mm) square flax packing and then adjust as above.
NOTE: Some models use a packless sealing system. Page 56 or Pages 56A, B, C, reflects the type of stuffing box used on this model.
PAGE 23
MAINTENANCE
COMPASSES
A boat compass rarely exists in an environment that is completely free from magnetic materials or influences.
The compass on your boat should be adjusted by a certified compass adjuster and have a deviation table made for it.
If you must depend solely on your compass for navigation, make a quick check for any objects near the compass that may cause additional, unmeasured deviation. Typical objects that may fall in this category include: knives, small radios, flashlights or other tools.
STEERING
Refer to the manufacturer’s instruction for maintaining pedestal steering system. Routinely inspect steering system components.
CONTROL HAZARD – Inspect and maintain steering system regularly. An improperly maintained system may fail, causing sudden loss of steering control, resulting in personal injury and property damage.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground installation, plus a shore power system of either 120v or 220v.
The owner should inspect batteries, terminals and cables weekly for signs of corrosion, cracks, and electrolyte leakage. Battery terminals are to be kept clean and greased. Refer to separate instructions on batteries, wiring diagram, and electronics.
•
Turn off engine before inspecting or servicing battery.
•
Disconnect battery cables before working on electrical system to prevent arcing or damage to alternator.
SHOCK/FIRE HAZARD
•
Disconnect electrical system from its power source before performing maintenance. Never work on the electrical system while it is energized.
•
Electrical appliances must be within the rated amperage of the boats circuits.
•
Observe boat carefully while the electrical components that can be left unattended are the automatic bilge pump, fire protection and alarm circuits.
•
Only a qualified marine electrical technician may service the boat’s electrical system.
SHOCK/FIRE HAZARD
Replace breaker or fuse with the same amperage device. Never alter over current protection.
PAGE 25
MAINTENANCE
PLUMBING SYSTEMS
All pumps should be checked frequently to insure proper operation. This is an especially important regular maintenance item since proper functioning of a pump could save your vessel from serious damage in the future.
Inspect all hoses for chafing and deterioration. See that hose clamps are tight.
Check that the pump impeller area is clean and free of obstructions.
Inspect electrical wiring for corrosion.
Make sure float switches move freely and are making an electrical connection.
The owner should become familiar with the layout of the water and waste systems by walking through the boat with the diagrams provided in this manual. It is especially important that the owner knows all the thru-hull valve locations and inspects for leaks frequently. Refer to plumbing diagrams in Specifications and Technical section of this manual.
General Thru-hull Lists (varies from boat to boat---see diagrams in Systems and
Circuits section).
1) Engine cooling system
2) Galley sink
3) Head sink
4) Head toilet (water intake)
5) Holding tank discharge
6) Scupper drains
FUEL SYSTEMS
The owner should inspect the condition of fuel lines for cracks or leaks. A primary source of fuel-related problems is water in the system. The owner should use only well maintained fueling facilities and make sure fuel fill caps are tightly secured after filling. Check and maintain fuel filters periodically. Refer to your Engine Manual for additional information.
Periodically, add biocide to prevent bacteria and fungi from contaminating diesel fuel that may contain some water.
Carefully follow manufacturer
’ s instructions and clean filter regularly.
PAGE 26
MAINTENANCE
CLEANING FIBERGLASS SURFACES
Fiberglass surfaces should be cleaned regularly. Normal accumulations of surface dirt can be removed simply by occasional rinsing with water. If you operate your boat in salt water, more frequent rinsing will be required. To remove stubborn dirt, grease or oil, use a mild detergent and a soft brush. Rinse with fresh clean water. Avoid the plexiglass companionway slider, windshield, deck hatches and fixed ports when using a deck brush, since these surfaces can scratch.
It is a good idea to wax the fiberglass once or twice a year to maintain a deep, glossy appearance. Your local marine supply should be able to provide an appropriate wax.
EXPLOSION/FIRE HAZARD
Cleaning agents and paint ingredients may be flammable and/or explosive, and dangerous to inhale. Be sure to use adequate ventilation, and appropriate safety clothing.
(gloves, safety glasses, respirator, etc.)
CLEANING ACRYLIC
Use only mild soap and water to clean acrylics. Do not use products containing solvents such as ammonia, which is found in many window cleaners. Use care when cleaning acrylic.
Dry cloth and many glass cleaners will scratch. Solvents will attack the surface.
SAIL CARE
Sunlight is a sail’s worst enemy, so cover the mainsail when not in use. An ultravioging, at reef points, batten sleeves and the foot of the headsail. Sail batten pockets let guard, fitted down the leech of a roller headsail will protect the exposed part from the weathering effect of the sun and from dirt and grit.
Mildew, can be prevented by storing sails dry and by hand washing twice a season.
Check all sails regularly for chafe, particularly where they chafe on deck fittings or rigshould be inspected on a regular basis.
To stow the mainsail, start at the leech and flake it onto the boom, left and right, in about
18-in. (46 cm) folds, while pulling the leech aft. Secure with a sail tie and continue to the luff. Lash to the boom with sail ties or shock cord.
GENERAL HARDWARE MAINTENANCE
Check all fittings regularly to be sure screws are tight. Occasionally lubricate
(use silicone lubricants) all moving parts on such fittings as blocks, turnbuckles and cam cleats, as well as the locking pins of snatch blocks, track slides, spinnaker poles, etc. Inspect cleat and fairleads for roughness and smooth with fine-grained emery paper if necessary.
Also, replace any missing or damaged cotter pins in turnbuckles and shackles, and either tape them or use them or use protective covers manufactured for that purpose. Grease winches a minimum of once yearly.
WINCH MAINTENANCE
Follow the maintenance instructions prescribed by winch manufacturer.
These patterns, like all upholstery fabrics and vinyl, require a regularly scheduled
We recommend a minimum of an annual cleaning and light greasing.
cleaning program. A thorough cleaning should be administered on a daily, weekly or
PAGE 27
VINYL CARE monthly basis depending on use and exposure to dirt and/or staining agents. It is important to begin treatment of a stain as soon as possible after a spill. It is important that efforts begin immediately after a spill to remove any potential staining agent. It is advisable to clean these products as soon as the first signs of dinginess occur, otherwise, delaying clean up will require a much greater effort to restore the product to its original appearance.
Regular cleaning requires the use of a mild cleaner such as Murphy’s Oil soap and water. In situations where the vinyl has not been washed regularly and there is a build up of dirt, stronger vinyl cleaners such as
Simonizes Tuff Stuff or Turtle Wax’s vinyl/fabric cleaner are recommended. We do not recommend the use of any other cleaners. The use of cleaners other than those recommended may result in irreparable damage to the product.
In order for the above listed cleaning solutions to work effectively on stubborn stains, please allow time for the cleaning solution to soak in thoroughly. Be sure to remove the cleaning solution before it has time to dry.
Regardless of the type of cleaner used, it is necessary to finish up with a thorough rinse using fresh water on a clean sponge or rag.
A soft bristled nylon or natural fiber brush can be used to remove built-up dirt and staining agents.
Finally, please remember that all our fabric grain vinyls require a greater cleaning effort to maintain than comparable smooth grain vinyls. These products will provide an attractive and durable alternative to conventional fabrics and vinyls if properly maintained.
One must realize that the proper installation and use of our fabric grain vinyl’s require additional attention to the establishment and maintenance of a well thought out cleaning program.
Do not use acetone or other harsh cleaners on the vinyl soft headliner.
Use soapy water or other mild detergent to avoid damage to the vinyl.
FABRIC CARE
Vinyl : Clean with mild soap and water. Wipe guard. Stretched or loose covers may be with vinyl or upholstery cleaner monthly, and especially before and after storage.
Leather : Mild soap water. Blot dry. Do not scrub as this will stretch and scratch. Wipe with leather cleaner/oil to preserve and help prevent cracks before and after storage.
Fabric : Blot dry. Do not machine wash. Use only mild soap and water. Wipe with a clean white cloth. If stain persists, dry clean. Be sure to treat cleaned surfaces with scotch steam cleaned. If foam is removed, it will restuff more easily if wrapped with thin plastic.
Storage : Cover with airflow fabric to reduce dust build up. Do not use plastic, as this will cause cushions to sweat and mildew.
Cushions : If wet, prop cushions vertically to promote airflow around each cushion. Cushions can be cleaned by most dry cleaners.
Dry clean only.
REPAIR OF POLYURETHANE (MINWAX) FLOORS
Surface Scratches: Sand floor with 220 grit sandpaper. Remove all dust with clean cotton cloth or blow off with air. Apply one coat of minwax evenly over sanded floor. Let dry completely, at least 24 hours
Deep Scratches: Remove all blemishes by sanding floor with 220, until all minwax is removed and you have a raw floor. Remove all dust with clean cloth or blow off with air. Apply one coat evenly over floor. Let dry four to six hours. Repeat steps one and four. Apply third coat of minwax only if needed by repeating steps one and four.) After final coat, let floor dry completely at least one day.
PAGE 28
ELECTROLYSIS AND GALVANIC PROTECTION
Salt water allows electric current to flow from anodic to cathodic material. For any two metals from two components, their relative positions in the galvanic rating table, will determine which loses material (the anode) and which remains largely undisturbed (the cathode). The distance between the two metals on the galvanic table determines the rate of wear. Thus a sacrificial zinc anode is often fitted to the underwater area of a boat to attract any destructive currents away from bronze or steel propeller shafts, for example.
It is not enough to know that your boat does not suffer from electrolysis; a newcomer in the adjacent marina berth may start a toofriendly association with metal components on it. An easy place to fit an anode is on the propeller shaft, or covering the propeller nut.
The anode should not be painted; this would render it ineffective.
To prevent electrolysis in seawater, the difference between the voltages of the two adjacent metals should not exceed 0.20 V.
For example, zinc and carbon steel used together risk corrosion, while lead and active stainless steel are compatible. Metals with a high voltage corrode faster and need a larger area to diffuse the electrochemical reaction.
TEAK CARE (240, 260, and 270 ONLY)
Teak wood is a high quality, extremely durable wood with high oil content. In order to help you protect the original beauty of your teak interior, we have sealed the wood with a 3 to 4 coat system of high quality Seafin
Teak Oil, manufactured by Dalys. This material is penetrating oil that dries to a low sheen to seal and protect the wood from moisture and weathering. It creates a durable, nonslip surface to repel water and resist wear. It won’t chip, peel or blister. It reduces work and maintenance cost because it is easy to repair and maintain and repair. With proper maintenance it will outlive urethane varnish on interior and even exterior surfaces
MAINTENENCE
When oiled surfaces require renewing, simply wipe the surface area free of loose dirt, dust or other contaminants. Dampen a cloth with the
Seafin Teal Oil and wipe on. Let stand for 5-15 minutes, then polish dry. If your dinette table has an epoxy finish, clean with furniture polish
REPAIRS
When woodwork is damaged from scrapes or abrasions that go into or thru the finish, take the following steps:
1. Take 180 to 200 grit wet/dry sand paper to smooth out rough spots.
2. Wipe clean of dust and dirt with a clean rag. Note: before applying oil, wood surface must be dry.
3. Wipe or brush on oil, allow to penetrate 5-
15 minutes while surface is still wet.
4. Sand until smooth with 400A wet/dry sandpaper.
5. Wipe dry with a clean rag. Allow 8-12 hours drying time.
6. Apply second coat, sand, and repeat procedure.
This procedure may be repeated as many times as needed to bring damaged area back to its original finish. If you have trouble with getting the same sheen, you may use a soaked and wrung out cloth to apply a very light coat to get an even sheen.
For more information about the product contact:
Dalys
3525 Stoneway North
Seattle, WA 98103
(206) 633-4200
PAGE 29
INTERIOR FURNITURE & BULKHEAD SPRAY FINISH
TEAK CARE
Teak wood is a high quality, extremely durable wood with high oil content. In order to help you protect the original beauty of your teak, we have sealed the interior with a (3 to
4) spray coat finish, using sealer and varnish for marine cabinets. The materials are manufactured by “Chemcraft International
Inc”. This material will seal and protect the wood from moisture and weathering. It is easy to maintain and reduces work and maintenance costs.
REPAIRS
When woodwork is damaged from scrapes or abrasions (that go into or through the finish), take the following steps:
1) Sanding with the grain, take 320 grit sand paper to smooth out rough spots. If the spot is down to the raw wood, rag (100% cotton) wipe the spot with acetone and allow to dry.
(Note: acetone only needs to be applied to the raw teak).
2) Reseal raw wood with Mohawk Spray Sealer (aerosol can) and allow to dry.
3) Lightly sand with 320 grit, sanding larger than original spot.
4) Wipe clean of dust and dirt with a clean rag.
5) Using Mohawk touch up and repair supplies, use clear lacquer spray (aerosol can). Apply
(1) coat on the spot evenly and allow to dry.
6) This process (steps 3 – 5) may be repeated as many times needed to bring damaged area back up to its original finish. On your final spraying, be sure to feather into existing finish.
SOP FOR POLYURETHANE (MINWAX) FLOORS
SURFACE SCRATCHES
1) Sand floor with 220 grit sandpaper until all scratches are removed.
2) Remove all dust with a clean cotton cloth or blow off with an air gun then wipe down with a tack cloth.
3) Apply one coat of minwax evenly over the sanded area.
4) Let the minwax dry completely (at least one day)
DEEP SCRATCHES
1) Sand floor with 220 grit sandpaper until all the minwax is removed and down to raw wood, removing all blemishes.
2) Remove all dust with a clean cotton cloth or blow off with an air gun then wipe down with a tack cloth.
3) Apply one coat of minwax evenly over the floor.
4) Let minwax dry 4-6 hours
5) Repeat steps 1-4, light sand
6) Apply a 3 rd
coat if needed by repeating steps 1-4.
7) Let the minwax dry completely (at least one day)
Chemcraft International Mohawk Finishing Products, Inc.
Telephone: 910-723-1846
U.S. Watts: 1-800-334-8556
U.S. Watts: 1-800-545-0047
PAGE 30
STORAGE/WINTERIZATION
IMPORTANT
Winter storage is recommended to be done in one of the following three ways, either: 1) by blocking the boat via a cradle 2) with chained stands on level ground; or 3) by storing the boat in the water with a bubbler system to prevent icing. Damage to your boat, including engine misalignment caused
by twisting, is not covered by the warranty.
them to drain. Find the lowest point
SAILS
Sails should be properly folded and stowed in a dry, well-ventilated place. Many sailboat owners send their sails back to the sail manufacturer at the end of each season. The in the system and disconnect the fitting. Open all faucets to allow the lines to drain. If possible, use a short section of hose on the faucet to blow through the lines to clear all water. A diluted solution with baking soda will sailmaker will check the stitching and sailcloth for wear and store the sails until the start of the next season.
ELECTRICAL
Remove battery from boat (Refer to
Engine Manual) and charge. It is a good idea to also remove the electronics (radio, radar, etc) and store in a safe place .
CUSHIONS help freshen the system.
WATER SYSTEM
Open valve and drain fully leave valve open during lay-up time.
TOILET AND HOLDING TANK
Drain and flush toilet. Using non- toxic anti-freeze in a 50/50 mixture with water, pump through toilet and into holding tank.
OUTBOARD ENGINE
Cushions should be removed and stored at home if possible. If not, prop them vertically to promote air flow around each cushion. only!
HATCHES
Dry clean
Tenting the deck during storage will help prevent ice from forming and damaging hatches and deck fittings.
The installation of a passive vent will help with ventilation while the boat is in storage.
WATER SYSTEM
Open a faucet and allow the pump to empty the tank. Then add approximately two gallons (7.6L) of nontoxic anti-freeze solution to the tank and repeat the pumping out procedure.
A second method is to disconnect the hoses at the pump, allowing
Take it home and store it in a safe place. Be very careful storing the gas tank as the gasoline is very flammable. Refer to Engine Manual for specific maintenance schedule.
INBOARD ENGINE
Winterizing Fresh Water Cooled
Diesel Engines
1. Drain crankcase and transmission and refill with fresh lubricant as specified in Engine Manual.
2. Drain and clean all fuel filters and change elements, gaskets, and seals. Bleed all air from fuel systems.
3. Start engine and bring up to operating temperature.
4. Close the sea cock, remove the raw water pickup hose from the raw water pump and immerse one end into a 5-gallon (19L) bucket of antifreeze solution. Start engine and run
PAGE 31
STORAGE/WINTERIZATION until anti-freeze solution comes out exhaust stack or until bucket is empty. Attach the raw water pickup hose to the raw water pump. Tighten all clamps. NOTE: This procedure bypasses the sea strainer to prevent anti-freeze from crystallizing in sea strainer, which warranty will not cover.
5. Loosen water pump and alternator belts to lessen tension on belts during winter.
6. For engines equipped with a hand crank: pull compression release levers and turn engine slowly with the hand crank. Slowly pour about 2 ounces of engine oil into the intake pipe or manifold while hand cranking the engine. This will allow for a thin coat of oil on the valves and upper cylinder. DO NOT USE starter to turn engine or serious engine damage may result.
7. Tape the openings of the intake and exhaust manifolds with duct tape to help prevent corrosion of the upper cylinder during layup.
8. Scrape all rust or corrosion from exposed metal parts and surfaces.
Scrub all metal surfaces with detergent and rinse thoroughly. Paint any bare metal.
9. Place a dust cover over engine.
Do not leave the engine exposed to rain and sea breeze.
10. Disconnect the battery cables; remove the battery from the boat.
Clean the terminal ends and battery with a solution of baking soda and water, and then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Apply a light coat of grease on the terminal end of the battery and cables. Store the battery in a cool dry place. Use a trickle charger to keep battery charged. Do not charge battery near any open flame or a confined area.
CAUTION: Wear safety goggles and rubber gloves to protect your skin.
Winterizing Raw Water Cooled
Diesel Engines
1. Drain crankcase and transmission and refill with fresh oil as specified in the engine manual. Change oil filters.
2. Close seacock, remove raw water pickup hose from water pump, attach
4-foot (1.2m) length of hose to water pump and immerse in a 5-gallon
(19L) bucket of biodegradable antifreeze solution. Remove hose from engine or manifold that leads to exhaust elbow. Attach about a 4-foot length of hose and immerse one end in the bucket of biodegradable antifreeze solution. Start engine and run until water begins to warm up (about
3-5 min.) and the thermostat opens.
Stop engine. Replace hose that leads to exhaust elbow. Star engine and let run till water comes out exhaust pipe. Stop engine, remove hose from water pump to bucket, attach hose from seacock to water pump and tighten all hose clamps.
NOTE: this procedure bypasses the sea strainer to prevent antifreeze from crystallizing sea strainer, which warranty will not cover.
3. Loosen water pump and alternator to lessen tensions on belts during winter.
4. Drain and clean all fuel filters and change elements, gaskets and seals.
Bleed all air from fuel systems.
5. Pull compression release lever and turn engine slowly with hand crank. Slowly pour about 2 ounces of
PAGE 32
STORAGE/WINTERIZATION engine oil into the intake pipe or manifold while engine is turning.
DO NOT USE the starter to turn engine or serious engine damage may result.
6. Tape the openings of the intake and exhaust manifolds with duct tape to help prevent corrosion of the upper cylinder during lay-up.
7. Scrape all rust or corrosion from exposed metal parts and surfaces.
Scrub all metal surfaces with detergent and rinse thoroughly. Paint any bare metal.
8. Place a dust cover over engine.
Do not leave engine exposed to rain and sea breeze.
9. Disconnect the battery cables; remove the battery from the boat.
Clean the terminal ends and battery with a solution of baking soda and water and rinse thoroughly with clean water. Apply a light coat of grease on the terminal end of the battery and cables. Store the battery in a cool dry place. Use a trickle charger to keep battery charged. Do not charge battery near any open flame or in a confined area.
CAUTION: Wear safety goggles and rubber gloves to protect your eyes and skin.
DEPARTURE FROM THE BOAT
The check list for leaving a boat unattended is very important because items overlooked often will not be remembered until you are far from the boat and corrective actions are impractical or impossible.
Primary choices for this list are items relating to the safety and security of the unattended craft: turning off fuel valves, properly setting electrical switches, pumping out bilge and leaving the switch on automatic (or arrange for periodic pumping out). It is recommended that the power be turned off when leaving the boat.
Other departure checklist items are securing ports, windows, hatches and doors.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance checklists should include items based on how much the boat is used (usually in terms of engine hours) and on calendar dates (weekly, monthly or seasonal checks). Typical of the former are oil level checks and changes, and oil and fuel filter changes.
On a calendar basis the lists should note such matters as electrolyte levels in storage batteries, pressure gauges on dry chemical fire extinguishers, and all navigation lights.
Check the operation of automatic bilge alarms or pump switches by running water into the boat. Periodically close and open sea cocks several times to ensure their free and easy operation in case they are needed in an emergency.
Equipment and supplies carried on board for emergencies should be inspected for any signs of deterioration.
PAGE 33
CE CERTIFIED
Your Hunter has been manufactured in the United States and has been certified by the
IMCI to be in compliance with the relevant parts of the Recreational Craft Directive
94/25/EC from the European Parliament. The CE mark means your craft meets or exceeds the applicable current International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standards and directives as stated on the CE certificate supplied with your craft. The builder ’ s plate, affixed to your boat, describes various parameters involved in the design of your boat. Please refer to it regularly when operating your boat.
Following are the Design Categories, established by the Recreation Craft Directive, which is to be considered a guideline of use application as per the Directive ’ s criteria.
Hunter Marine Corporation does NOT establish these criteria, and the category indicated is only a reference to the assigned category. The safety of the captain and crew of any vessel is not measurable by such categories, and you should not interpret these categories as an indication of your safety in such condition. The skill of your captain and crew, together with proper preparation, appropriate safety equipment for the given conditions and a well maintained vessel are critical to safe sailing.
CE CRAFT DESIGN CATEGORIES
Category A – “ Ocean ” : Craft designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force 8 (Beaufort Scale) and include significant wave heights of 4m, for vessels that are largely self-sufficient.
Category B - “ Offshore ” : Craft designed for offshore voyages where conditions include winds up to and including wind force 8 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.
Category C – “ Inshore ” : Craft designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers, where conditions up to and including wind force 6 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.
Category D – “ Sheltered Waves ” : Craft designed for voyages on small lakes, rivers and canals, where conditions up to and including wind force 4 and significant wave heights up to and including 0.5m may be experienced.
For additional information, contact
International Marine Certification Institute (IMCI)
Treves Centre, rue de Treves 45
1040 Brussels, Belgium
FX: (32) 2238-7700
NMMA CERTIFIED
Your Hunter has been judged by the National Marine Manufacturers Association
(NMMA) to be in compliance with the applicable federal regulations and American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standard and recommended practices in effect at the time of manufacture.
For additional information, contact:
National Marine Manufacturers Association
200 E. Randolph Dr., Suite 5100
Chicago, IL 60611
PH: (1) 312-946-6200 FX: (1) 312-946-0388
PAGE 34
DIMENSIONS, CAPACITIES, ETC.
HUNTER 46
LENGTH OVERALL (LOA) ………………………… ..
LENGTH OF WATERLINE (LWL) ………………… ..
BEAM (MAX) ………………………………………… ..
44'3"
38'8"
14'0
DRAFT ..........................
………………………………
5'6"
DISPLACEMENT …………………………………… ..
28.000 lbs.
BALLAST ...........................
………………………… ..
9,500 lbs.
SAIL AREA (100% TRIANGLES) ……………………
SAIL AREA (ACTUAL W/STANDARD SAILS) …… .
I ………………………………………………………… .
J ……………………………………………………… ..
P …………………………………………………………
908.1 sq. ft.
1155 sq. ft.
55.26 ft.
17.16 ft.
50.42 ft.
E …………………………………………………………
17.91 ft.
MAST HEIGHT (FROM WATERLINE) ………………
62' 9"
HEADROOM ………………………………………… ..
6'6"
13.49m
11.79m
4.27m
1.68m
12,698 kg
4,309 kg
84.4 sq.m
81.29 sq.m
16.84m
5.23m
15.37m
5.45m
19.13m
1.98m
WATER CAPACITY ………………………………… ..
HOLDING TANK CAPACITY ……………………… ..
FUEL TANK CAPACITY …………………………… ..
LPG TANK CAPACITY ……………………………… .
200 U.S. gal.
50 U S gal.
100 US gal.
10 lbs.
757 liters
189 liters
378 liters
4.54 kg
BATTERY CAPACITY ………………………………
ELECTRICAL VOLTAGES
INBOARD ENGINES …………………………………
OPTIONAL GENERATOR
MAXIMUM LOADING
…………………………
..
..
……………………………
…………………………………
.
75 amp (1)
62 hp
76 hp OPTIONAL
START BATTERY
180 amp (2)
12 V.D.C./ 110 V.A.C.
HOUSE BATTERIES
(SELECT OVERSEAS MODELS 220 V)
37.3 kw
47.3 kw OPTIONAL
6 kw
10 PEOPLE 2460 kg
(INCLUDING LUGGAGE)
LIFTING POINTS ………………………………………
INDICATED BY "SLING" LABELS
ON HULL
PROP DIAMETER & PITCH
YANMAR 4JH2TE (62 H.P.)
YANMAR 4JH2HTE (76 H.P.)
YANMAR 4JH2TE (62 H.P.)
YANMAR 4JH2HTE (76 H.P.)
2 BLADE
18" X 17 R.H.(457.2mm X 431.8mm)
NOT OFFERED
3 BLADE
18" X 16 R.H.(457.2mm X 406.4mm)
18" X 17 R.H.(457.2mm X 431.8mm)
EXCEL4608037
PAGE 37
REVISION #
HUNTER 46 DECK HARDWARE
GEN.DESCR.
1 HATCH
SCREEN
TRIM RING
2 HATCH
SCREEN
TRIM RING
3 HATCH
SCREEN
TRIM RING
4 HATCH
SCREEN
TRIM RING
5 HATCH
SCREEN
TRIM RING
6 HATCH
SCREEN
TRIM RING
7A PORTLIGHT
SCREEN
7B AFT FIXED CABIN WINDOW
8 FIXED PORTLIGHT
TRIM RING
9 FIXED PORTLIGHT
SCREEN
10 WINDLASS
DUAL CONTROL BOX
DECK SWITCH - UP
DECK SWITCH - DOWN
11 BOW ROLLER
12 FURLING UNIT
13 BOW RAIL
14 BOW LIGHT
15 ANCHOR HATCH
ANCHOR LATCH (HANDLE)
STRIKER PLATE
HINGE
EYE STRAP
BUNGEE CORD
16 HANDRAILS
17 HANDRAILS
"
"
LOC. & TYPE
FWD. HEAD
FWD.S/R CABIN TOP
"
"
MAIN SALOON & GALLEY
"
"
GALLEY
"
"
"
"
AFT HEAD
HOUSE SIDE
"
"
HOUSE SIDE
"
P &S AFT HOUSE SIDE
HULL SIDE
"
HULL SIDE
"
ANCHOR LKR.
WINDLASS
WINDLASS
WINDLASS
BOW
STEM
BOW
ON BOW PULPIT
BOW
ANCHOR LOCKER
ANCHOR LOCKER
ANCHOR LOCKER
ANCHOR LOCKER
ANCHOR LOCKER
FWD. TRUNK CENTER
FWD TRUNK EDGE
"
"
VENDOR
LEWMAR
LEWMAR
"
"
LEWMAR
"
"
LEWMAR
"
"
"
"
LEWMAR
LEWMAR
"
"
LEWMAR
COAST S-20
"
"
SIZE 0
" "
NO. FLORIA GLASS PLEXI
"
"
MDL/NAME/#
COAST S-10
COAST S-44
"
"
COAST S-30
"
"
COAST S-10
"
"
"
"
COAST S20
LEWMAR
"
HORIZON
HUNTER
FURLEX
HUNTER
C/O 410
48"
24"
1500GD
450
C/O 450
EL0344
FIBERGLASS
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
WOOD
WOOD
18 HANDRAILS
19 MAST STEP
20 VANG BLOCK
21 VANG BLOCK
22 CABIN WINDSHIELD
23 CABIN SIDE PLEXI (P&S)
24A PIN BOARDS-TOP
24B PIN BOARDS-MID
24C PIN BOARDS-BOTTOM
25 WINCH
26 WINCH
27 WINCH
28 SHEETSTOPPER
29 CLEAT
30 CLEAT
31 CLEAT
33 CLEAT
34 CLEAT (FURL)
35 JIB TRACK
36 JIB CARS
37 JIB TRACK ENDS
38 DK. ORGANIZER (TRIPLE)
39 LIFE LINES
40 STANCHION W/ BASE
41 STANCHION GATE
CABIN TOP
MID DECK
48"
SELDEN
WOOD
450
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
705-55
705-45
NO. FLORIA GLASS NEW DESIGN
FWD END OF CABIN SIDES NO. FLORIA GLASS NEW DESIGN
COMPANIONWAY
COMPANIONWAY
COMPANIONWAY
HALYARD
HALYARD-ELEC.
COCKPIT / JIB SHEET
PORT & STBD
BOW
ANCHOR LOCKER
MIDSHIPS
STERN
ON COAMING
MID TRUNK
2 PORT & 2 STBD@ MAST
ABOVE GUNN'LS
ALONG GUNN'LS
PORT AND STARBOARD
NO. FLORIA GLASS PLEXI (TOP)
NO. FLORIA GLASS PLEXI (MID)
NO. FLORIA GLASS PLEXI (BOTTOM)
LEWMAR COAST STD.44ST
LEWMAR
LEWMAR
SPINNLOCK
NORTH/JUDD
NORTH/JUDD
NORTH/JUDD
NORTH/JUDD
4" SILVER
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
HARKEN
COAST 48EST
COAST 48ST
XT/3 TRIPLE
14051
14051
14051
14051
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
1590
C/O 410
380 GATE FWD
2
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1 SET
1 SET
4
4
2
2
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
3
3
2
2
6
2
1
2
4
1
1
2
1
1
6
6
1
1
1
1
1
1
#REQ.
PART # DWG #
2 300210
2
2
2
300220
300230
NEW
NEW
3
3
3
NEW
301050
301060
301070
300210
300220
300230
300910
300920
300940
300910
300920
300940
300484
300490
425540
424660
300290
300850
300860
310520
310550
310570
310600
304400 4462044A
NEW
307820 4462024A
255806
318530
N/A
N/A
315700 N/A
309740
315059
315590
6
2 PR
302630
302340
P4655
P4614
P4612
P4613
P4624
308620
308890
308630
304020
308835
308835
308835
308835
303850
303152
302190
302170
303305
N/A
NEW
305140 N/A
304975
Page 39A
REVISION #
GEN.DESCR.
42 CHAIN PLATE
43 CHAIN PLATE
44 STRUTS
45 FILL PLATE
46 FILL PLATE
47 FILL PLATE
48 STEERING CONSOLE
49 WHEEL
50 STEERING SYSTEM
"
51 SHIFT CONTROL
52 QUAD COVER
HUNTER 46 DECK HARDWARE
LOC. & TYPE
UPPER SHROUD
LOWER SHROUD
MAST
DIESEL
WATER
WASTE
IN COCKPIT
WHITEWATER
IN CONSOLE
VENDOR
NEW DESIGN
NEW DESIGN
NEW LENGTH
HUNTER
42"
EDSON
"
PEDESTAL
COCKPIT C/O 380
53 GRABRAIL, AFT CONSOLE
GRAB HANDLE, CONSOLE
54 EMERG.TILL ACCESS
55 MAINSHEET BLOCK
56 SEA HOOD
57 SLIDING HATCH
58 SLIDER STOP
59 SOLAR PANEL
60 SOLAR PANEL MOUNT PLATE
61 COMPANIONWAY TRACK/SLIDER
62 COMPANIONWAY HANDRAIL
63 STBD GULLWING SEAT
HINGES
EYE STRAP
64 PORT GULLWING SEAT
HINGES
EYE STRAP
STEERING CONSOLE
STEERING CONSOLE
IN QUAD COVER
AFT END BOOM
FWD OF COMPANIONWAY
COMPANIONWAY
COMPANIONWAY HATCH
ON SEA HOOD
COMPANIONWAY
COCKPIT
GULLWING
GULLWING
COCKPIT
GULLWING
GULLWING
C/O 380
C/O 380
HARKEN
HUNTER
ON SEA HOOD
HUNTER
HUNTER
HUNTER
65 EURO HATCH
EURO HATCH HINGE
SPRING CLAMP
SPRING CLAMP
EYE STRAP
66 MANUAL BILGE PUMP
67 ARCH
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
FIXED CONTROL BLOCK
CLEAT AND BLOCK
SHACKLE
TRAVELER CAR
ENGINE PANEL
LIGHT ON CONSOLE
SPEAKERS
HELM SEAT
HINGES
COCKPIT
EURO HATCH
EURO HATCH
EURO HATCH
IN COCKPIT
ABOVE COCKPIT
68 MAINSHEET TRAVELER TRACK ON ARCH
70 " CONTROL BLOCK " "
HUNTER
C/O 410
HUNTER
HARKEN 516-5
HARKEN 1845
HARKEN 132
HARKEN 141
MOUNTED ON ARCH
PIVOTING EXIT BLOCK
5/16" D SHACKLE
AS PER 450 HARKEN 1928
ON COCKPIT PT. COAMING YANMAR "C"
ON ARCH
ON COCKPIT CONSOLE
COCKPIT
HELM SEAT
HUNTER
RUBBER LATCHES
EYE STRAP
80 STERN RAIL
81 STERN LIGHT
82 SWIMSEAT LID
HINGE (SWIMSEAT LOCKER)
RUBBER LATCH
83 SWIM LADDER
84 COCKPIT SHOWER
HELM SEAT
HELM SEAT
STERN
ON SERN RAIL
STERN
STERN
SWIMSEATS
STERN
COCKPIT
C/O 380
HUNTER
WINDLINE
86 SWIM GRAB HANDLE
87 LPG LOCKER LID
PULL, PROPANE LOCKER
STAINLESS, 1/8 x1 304 TRUE BAR
EYE STRAP
88 PORTLIGHT
89 HATCH
STERN
PORT COCKPIT COAMING HUNTER
LPG LOCKER
LPG LOCKER
COCKPIT
HULLSIDE
LEWMAR
LEWMAR
MDL/NAME/#
PL1126
PL1130
PL1140
C/O380
WHITEWATER
C/O 380
"
C/O 410
GLASS PART
C/O 380
NEW DESIGN
NEW LENGTH
STARBOARD
C/O 410
GLASS PART
SOUTHCOAST
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
#REQ.
PART # DWG #
2 NEW?
2
2
NEW?
NEW?
4462020A
4462034A
2
1
1
3
1
356181 4462037A
356199
356217
310850
***
1
1
1
1
311630
311695
N/A
***
1 EA
1
307130
305080
300520
303302
N/A
P4628
***
***
1
1
1
1
1
1 PR
PR
1
2
1
2
258092
307280
FRP
314900
315590
FRP
314900
315590
4462027A
P4632
***
***
***
C/O 450
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
EL0389
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
502-2
502-1
PL0371
STAINLESS
AS ON 450
MOUNTED ON CAR
PIVOTING BLOCK
INVENTORY
C/O 410
C/O 380
C/O 380
C/O 380
HW0074
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
PR
PR
FRP
314900
303800
303790
315590
352185 N/A
***
***
***
2
1
1
1
2
2
1
2
2
312130
4465007A
2
1
2
4
1
2
2
ST
1
FRP
314920
315430
315590
306785
255878
***
***
FRP
314900
***
315430
303650 4462015A
351267
2 307600 N/A
1 SET FRP
2
2
315023
705235
***
***
***
4
1
2
315590
300590
300850
***
***
***
PAGE 39B
REVISION #
HUNTER 46 DECK HARDWARE
GEN.DESCR.
90 SHORE WATER
91 SHORE PWR.
"
92 RUBRAIL
93 KEEPER, RUBRAIL
94 CHEEK BLOCK (JIB SHEET)
96 CHAFE GUARD
97 SS RUB RAIL INSERT
98 SS VENTED STANCHION
LOC. & TYPE
TRANSOM
"
GUNN'L
GUNN'L
AFT OUTBRD CABIN TOP
VENDOR
"
BARBOUR
BARBOUR
CABIN HOUSE TOP
PT & STBD RUBRAIL
HUNTER
PT & STBD SS VENTED STAN.HUNTER
MDL/NAME/#
PL1175
#REQ.
PART #
1 331700
DWG #
1
1
331780
331820
380 STYLE (ROUNDED) NEW STYLE
NEW STYLE
302760
SS CHAFE GUARD
SS RUB RAIL
SAME AS 420
2 P4666
P4653
305145
OPTIONAL GEAR (STD MAST)
SPIN OPTION
100 WINCH
101 SNATCH BLOCK
102 SPIN BLOCK
103 SPIN. MAST BLOCK
104 PADEYE
105 SPINNAKER MAST BLOCK
106 DK ORGANIZER (QUAD)
107 SHEET STOPPER
COCKPIT / SPINN.SHEET
MID RAIL
AFT RAIL
MAST STEP
ON RAIL AFT OF GATE
LEWMAR
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
SCHAEFER
MAST HEAD
PORT SIDE AT MAST
RUTGERSON
HARKEN
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 38
PORT SIDE SPINLOCK
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 28
SPINNAKKER SHEETS
STAYSAIL OPTION
108 STAYSAIL MAST BLOCK
109 DK ORGANIZER (QUAD)
110 INNER FORESTAY BASE
111 STRAP IFS
MAST STEP
STBD SIDE AT MAST
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 38
SCHAEFER
JUST FWD OF MAST
RUTGERSON
HARKEN
112 U-BOLT
113 PADEYE
JUST FWD OF MAST
FWD OF MAST
114 HALYARD, STAYSAIL IN MAST
115 INNER FORESTAY, W/REL LEVER
116 SHEETS, STAYSAIL
117 TURNBUCKLE
118 SHEET STOPPER STBD SIDE
SCHAEFER 78-01
SPINLOCK
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 28
SPIN & STAYSAIL OPTION
100 WINCH
101 SNATCH BLOCK
102 SPIN BLOCK
103 SPIN. MAST BLOCK
104 PADEYE
105 SPINNAKER MAST BLOCK
106 DK ORGANIZER (QUAD)
107 SHEET STOPPER
108 STAYSAIL MAST BLOCK
COCKPIT / SPINN.SHEET
MID RAIL
AFT RAIL
MAST STEP
ON RAIL AFT OF GATE
MAST STEP
PORT & STBD
REPLACES ITEM 38
PORT & STBD
REPLACES ITEM 28
MAST STEP
LEWMAR
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
HARKEN
SPINLOCK
RUTGERSON
COAST STD.50ST
11--99
10--15
78-99
600 W/SPRING
(REDUCE #38 TO 2)
XT/4
600 W/SPRING
(REDUCE #38 TO 2)
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
C/O 450
XT/4
COAST STD.50ST
11--99
10--15
78-99
600 W/SPRING
XT/4
600 W/SPRING
2
1
2
1
4
2
2
2
1
2
2
2
1
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
1
308640
303143
303192
302263
303740
302263
303307
304030
302263
303307
NEW
304270
318030
303760
400155??
400185??
400170
400200
304030
308640
303143
303192
302263
303740
302263
303307
304030
302263
110 INNER FORESTAY BASE
111 STRAP IFS
112 U-BOLT
113 PADEYE
JUST FWD OF MAST
JUST FWD OF MAST
FWD OF MAST
114 HALYARD, STAYSAIL IN MAST
115 INNER FORESTAY, W/REL LEVER
116 SHEETS, STAYSAIL
117 TURNBUCKLE
SCHAEFER
C/O 450
SCHAEFER 78-01
7/16 X 107'?????? C/O 450
1x19 x44'????
C/O 450
7/16x40' C/O 450
1 NEW
304270
318030
303760
400155??
400185??
400170
400200
OPTIONAL GEAR (FURLING MAST)
FURLING, NO SPIN OR STAYSAIL
125 DK ORGANIZER (QUAD)
126 SHEET STOPPER
PORT SIDE AT MAST HARKEN
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 38
PORT SIDE SPINLOCK
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 28
2
(REDUCE #38 TO 2)
XT/4 1
303307
304030
PAGE 39C
REVISION #
HUNTER 46 DECK HARDWARE
GEN.DESCR.
LOC. & TYPE VENDOR
SPIN OPTION
100 WINCH
101 SNATCH BLOCK
102 SPIN BLOCK
103 SPIN. MAST BLOCK
128 SHEET STOPPER
COCKPIT / SPINN.SHEET
MID RAIL
AFT RAIL
MAST STEP
LEWMAR
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
104 PADEYE
105 SPINNAKER MAST BLOCK
ON RAIL AFT OF GATE
MAST HEAD
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
127 ORGANIZER, 3DECK STACK PORT SIDE AT MAST HARKEN
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 38
107 SHEET STOPPER PORT SIDE SPINLOCK
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 28
PORT SIDE SPINLOCK
MDL/NAME/# #REQ.
PART #
COAST STD.50ST
11--99
10--15
78-99
600 W/SPRING
1503
(REDUCE #38 TO 2)
XT/4 1
2
1
2
2
1
2
2
XT/1 1 ???
308640
303143
303192
302263
303740
302263
303370
304030
DWG #
STAYSAIL OPTION
85 PADEYE
108 STAYSAIL MAST BLOCK
109 DK ORGANIZER (QUAD)
ON RAIL AMIDSHIPS
MAST STEP
PORT & STBD AT MAST
REPLACES ITEM 38
110 INNER FORESTAY BASE
111 STRAP IFS
117 TURNBUCKLE
118 SHEET STOPPER
JUST FWD OF MAST
112 U-BOLT
113 PADEYE
114 HALYARD, STAYSAIL IN MAST
115 INNER FORESTAY, W/REL LEVER
116 SHEETS, STAYSAIL
JUST FWD OF MAST
FWD OF MAST
STBD SIDE
REPLACES ITEM 28
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
HARKEN
SCHAEFER
78-99
600 W/SPRING
C/O 450
SCHAEFER 78-01
7/16 X 107'?????? C/O 450
1x19 x44'????
7/16x40'
C/O 450
C/O 450
SPINLOCK XT/4
2
1
4
2
2
303775
302263
303307
NEW
304270
318030
303760
400155??
400185??
400170
400200
304030
SPIN & STAYSAIL OPTION
100 WINCH
101 SNATCH BLOCK
102 SPIN BLOCK
LEWMAR
SCHAEFER
SCHAEFER
103 SPIN. MAST BLOCK
104 PADEYE
MAST HEAD
ON RAIL AFT OF GATE
105 SPINNAKER MAST BLOCK MAST STEP
127 ORGANIZER, 3DECK STACK PORT SIDE AT MAST
RUTGERSON
SCHAEFER
RUTGERSON
HARKEN
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 38
107 SHEET STOPPER
128 SHEET STOPPER
108 STAYSAIL MAST BLOCK
109 DK ORGANIZER (QUAD)
COCKPIT / SPINN.SHEET
MID RAIL
AFT RAIL
PORT SIDE SPINLOCK
REPLACES ONE TRIPLE FROM ITEM 28
PORT SIDE
MAST STEP
SPINLOCK
RUTGERSON
PORT & STBD AT MAST
REPLACES ITEM 38
HARKEN
110 INNER FORESTAY BASE
111 STRAP IFS
112
JUST FWD OF MAST
0 JUST FWD OF MAST
SCHAEFER
113 PADEYE
114 HALYARD, STAYSAIL
FWD OF MAST
IN MAST
115 INNER FORESTAY, W/REL LEVER
116 SHEETS, STAYSAIL
117 TURNBUCKLE
118 SHEET STOPPER STBD SIDE
REPLACES ONE ITEM 28
SCHAEFER 78-01
7/16 X 107'?????? C/O 450
1x19 x44'????
7/16x40'
C/O 450
C/O 450
SPINLOCK
COAST STD.50ST
11--99
10--15
78-99
600 W/SPRING
1503
(REDUCE #38 TO 2)
XT/4
XT/1
600 W/SPRING
C/O 450
XT/4
1
2
1
4
2
2
2
1
1
1
4
1
2
2
308640
303143
303192
302263
303740
302263
303370
304030
???
302263
303307
NEW
304270
318030
303760
400155??
400185??
400170
400200
304030
PAGE 39D
The B&R rig, utilized on the Hunter H46, eliminates the need for a backstay to allow for a more efficient mainsail shape. Fixed backstays are commonly being designed out of today ’ s performance-oriented boats to allow the mainsail to incorporate a full roach design - a more aerodynamic shape both for racing and cruising performance.
To accomplish this, the B&R rig has 30 degree swept spreaders, creating 120 degrees between each rigging point.
This tri-pod arrangement has excellent strength for sailboat rigs, and has been used for years to support huge radio towers.
The latest advancement to the B&R rig is the addition of mast struts. These struts stabilize the lower section of the mast, allowing compression loads to be spread, reducing the point loading at the mast base. They also create a strong point for the boom and spinnaker pole loadings. The struts function also allow us to use a smaller mast section reducing weight aloft to decrease the heeling and pitching moments, making for a more comfortable ride.
Additionally, they provide a secure handhold when going forward.
The struts perform an important structural function, therefore never sail your boat without the struts properly fitted . If your H46 is equipped with the in-mast furling option, the mast is a larger section size and the struts are not utilized.
Additional support is given to the B&R rig (and is unique to it) with the addition of reverse diagonal rigging. For example, the diagonals that you see beginning by the top of the mast strut, ending at the tip of the spreader, supports and stabilizes the lower section of the mast as it creates a triangle with
H46 B&R RIG WITH STRUTS DESCRIPTION
the lower shroud. The top RD2 runs from above the lower spreader base to the end of the top spreader, and stabilizes the top section of the mast.
The B&R rig is designed to be pre-bent to further add rigidity to the mast section and eliminate the need for adjustable rigging (like backstay adjusters). This design should prove more reliable than a rig with adjustable backstays or runners, as there is less chance for error.
The large main, small jib, sail plan on the H46 also eliminates the need for large overlapping headsails (genoas), as the driving power comes from the much improved shape and size of the mainsail. This allows for an easier tacking small jib, creating good performance and more comfortable sailing as it is less work for the crew.
As the large main is creating additional mainsheet and leach loading, Hunter has included a cockpit arch whereby the mainsheet and leech loads are directed to the strong part of the boom (the outboard end) and is located at the heaviest loading point of the mainsail.
The cockpit arch serves addition safety and comfort functions as handholds and cockpit canvas attachment points.
B&R rigs have been used on thousands of sailboats, and we are proud to incorporate this successful design on your new Hunter.
PAGE 47
TUNING THE H46 B&R RIG
The easiest method for tuning the B&R rig is to perform step one as follows before the mast is stepped, with it lying aft side down on two sawhorses. Begin with all rigging slack. If the mast is already stepped, loosen all the rigging, and then proceed to step one.
1. Start with all the rigging slack. Then induce the mast bend by tightening the reverse diagonals (diamonds). Measure the bend by tensioning a line or the main halyard between the masthead and the gooseneck. The maximum amount of bend should be no more than 6 ”
(152.4mm)for the standard rig and no more than 2 ” (50 mm) for the furling mast measured perpendicular from the aft face of the mast to the halyard at the deepest part of the bend. It can be less than that based on the sail shape and your own preference. The bend should also be evenly distributed along the mast to give a smooth shape. Keep in mind that bending a furling mast may make it more difficult to furl and will not do much to flatten the sail as in a standard rig. It is very important that the mast also be straight from side to side at this time. Tighten or loosen the reverse diagonals to achieve this. up. If not, tighten and/or loosen the verticals until the marks line up. Once the masthead is centered, begin tightening the verticals until the turnbuckles are approximately half closed. While tightening the verticals you may notice the bend in the mast increasing. Now you can tighten the lowers which will tend to straighten the lower part of the mast. Be sure to tighten port and starboard sides evenly.
5. Now you should tighten the headstay until it is approximately half closed as well. This should induce the appropriate amount of headstay tension. Never use anything more than a pair of wrenches to tighten your rigging. If you use an extended piece of pipe on the handle of a wrench you can over tighten the rigging and do damage to the mast or rigging.
2. Step the mast with all shrouds attached but with the turnbuckles completely loosened (if the mast was not already stepped).
3. Attach the jib halyard to a cleat on the bow to support the mast in a raked position (the masthead should be about
1-1/2 ’ behind the step). Attach the verticals and tighten them until you can just see the hole for the cotter pin in the turnbuckle. Tighten the jib halyard until you can attach the forestay. At this point the masthead should be raked so that a weight hung on the main halyard hangs about 1 ’ behind the mast step.
6. On the Hunter H46 it is necessary to go up the mast in a bosun ’ s chair to tighten the number 2 diagonal shroud (D2 or intermediate shroud). Always use caution when “ going aloft ” . You should always use a mountain climbing harness or Bosun ’ s Chair intended for this use.
Always tie into the harness with the halyard using a bowline and then secure the shackle as a back up as the knot is more reliable than a mechanical fastener. The person hoisting you aloft should keep the halyard stopper closed to prevent falls. Good communication between the two of you is also important. Tighten the D2 until it has just become tight and then add two complete turns. While at the first spreader, look up the back of the mast to see if it is straight (rather than bent from side to side). If it is not straight, then adjust the appropriate D2 to straighten it.
4. Use the main halyard to check that the mast is centered from side to side. Pull it tight and mark the halyard next to the verticals chainplate. Now do the same to the other side to see if the marks line
7. Have the person on deck carefully lower you. They should keep the halyard wrapped at least twice around the winch and should always have one hand able to stop the halyard from running free. Once on deck look up the back of the mast and see if it is straight.(rather
4608052.doc PAGE 52
TUNING THE H46 B&R RIG
than bent from side to side) if it is not straight then adjust the lowers (D1) until it is. rigging bending back the ends and taping them to prevent snagged lines, sails and fingers.
8. If you have the standard rig you need to attach the struts at this time. Attach the lower end of the strut to the smaller hole in the chainplate. Adjust the length by turning the ball joint bearing in the upper end of the strut until the holes in the pin can be attached. It is normal to have some play between the strut and the chainplate and strut bracket
9. The final test is to go sailing in 10-15 knots of wind. If when sailing upwind, the shrouds on the leeward side are slack then tighten them to remove about half the slack keeping note of the number of turns. Then tack and do the same to the other side. Do this until you are happy with the tension and the leeward side does not get loose when the boat is heeled. Now sight up the mast to be sure it is still relatively straight from side to side. If it is not then adjust to appropriate rigging to correct it. For example: if the mast is straight until the upper spreader and then hooks to the windward side then you will have to revisit steps 6 and 7 above. Remember to always tighten the leeward shroud, tack and tighten the new leeward shroud the same amount.
This prevents damage to the turnbuckles and is also much easier to do. Keep in mind it is also possible to have something too tight such as a diagonal shroud.
10. At this point you should have adequate headstay tension. The sails are built for about 14 ” of headstay sag, the bend in the standard mast should be about 1 ’ and 4 ” in the furling mast and it should be nearly straight from side to side when sailing upwind. If any of these are not true then revisit the appropriate step above to correct it. If the sag in the headstay is too much then adding tension to the verticals will fix it.
11. Once the rig is tuned you should make sure to add the cotter pins to all the
Remember that rigging, like everything else, can age. As it gets older it may need to be replaced. The frequency for which this becomes necessary depends on the climate and conditions in which the boat is sailed.
For example: if you sail in the Caribbean it should be replaced every 2-3 years compared to every 10 for the great lakes.
You should consult a professional rigger for advice.
4608052.doc PAGE 53
NOTE TO CONSUMER
THE FOLLOWING PAGES PROVIDE DETAILED INFORMATION, SCHEMATICS ETC. PERTAINING
TO THE H46 STANDARD ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS AS WELL AS THE OPTIONAL ELECTRICAL
SYSTEMS.
READ THE DRAWING TITLE IN THE TITLE BLOCK TO BE SURE YOU ARE REFERRING TO THE
CORRECT SYSTEM FOR YOUR MODEL.
H46 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONTENTS
PAGES 63A-2 THRU 63H CONTAINS A.C.
POWER SYSTEMS
(120 V.A.C.) (230 V.A.C. ON OVERSEAS MODELS)
MAIN DISTRIBUTION PANEL/AC SCHEMATICS/LAYOUTS.
……… ..
…………… ..
… ..S
ECTION 63A
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM ...
………………………………… ..
……………… ..
……… SECTION 63B
RESERVED … ..
………………………………………………… ..
…………………………… .
SECTION 63C
GENERATOR SYSTEM ………………………………………………… .
… ....
…………… ....
SECTION 63D
INVERTER SYSTEM …………………………………………… ...
……………………… .
… .
SECTION 63E
RESERVED …………………………………………………………………………………… ..
SECTION 63F
WASHER/DRYER SYSTEM ………………………………………………………………… ..
SECTION 63G
PAGES 64A-1 THRU 64I CONTAINS D.C. POWER SYSTEMS
(12-VOLT D.C.)
D.C. PANEL AND SYSTEM SCHEMATICS ……………………………… ...
… .
…………… SECTION 64A
12 VOLT INTERIOR LIGHTS ……………… ..
……………………… ..
… .
………………… ..
SECTION 64B
12 VOLT EXTERIOR LIGHTS … ..
…………………… ...
………… ..
… .
…………………… ..
SECTION 64C
TANK MONITOR ……… . .
… .
… .
…………………… ..
…… .
……………………………… ..
SECTION 64D
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS ………………………………… .
…………………………… SECTION 64E
VHF RADIO SYSTEM ………… .
…………………………………………………………… ..
SECTION 64F
REFRIGERATION SYSTEMS …………………… ..
……………………………………… .....
SECTION 64G
WINDLASS SYSTEM …………… .
…………………………………………………… ..
…… .
SECTION 64H
ELECTRIC HALYARD SYSTEM.
…………… ..
…………………………………………… ..
SECTION 64I
AUTO PILOT SYSTEM.
……………………………………………………………………… SECTION 64J
FIXED FIRE EXTINGUISHER SYSTEM.
…………………………………………………… SECTION 64K
BOW THRUSTER SYSTEM.
…………… .
…………………………………………………… SECTION 64L
DYNAPLATE LAYOUT.
…………………………………… .
……………………………… ..
SECTION 64M
BREAKER AND WIRE DATA …………… ..
……………………………… ...
… .
…………… SECTION 65A
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE..
…………… ..
……………………… ..
… .
………………… ..
SECTION 65B
PAGE 63A-1
12 V.D.C. DISTRIBUTION PANEL
BREAKER
12 V. D.C. MAIN
PANEL LIGHTS
CABIN LIGHTS
COURTESY LIGHTS
ENTERTAINMENT
WATER PUMP
SUMP PUMP
MACERATOR
REFRIGERATION
ANCHOR LIGHT
STEAMING LIGHT
DECK LIGHTS
RUNNING LIGHTS
L. P. GAS
VHF
TANK INDICATOR
INSTRUMENTS
BILGE PUMP
OPT. WINDLASS
OPT. AUTOPILOT
BLOWER
SPARE/S
12V.D.C. AUX.
INDICATOR LIGHTS
NOTES:
DESCRIPTION
SUPPLIES 12 V.D.C. POWER TO ALL BREAKERS ON D.C. SIDE OF PANEL.
ILLUMINATES BOTH A.C. & D.C. SIDES OF THIS PANEL FOR NIGHT USE
SUPPLIES POWER TO ALL INTERIOR LIGHTS
SUPPLIES POWER TO FLOOR LIGHTS, ENGINE BOX, DISH RACK AND COCKPIT LIGHT
SUPPLIES POWER TO STEREO UNIT
SUPPLIES POWER TO FRESH WATER PUMP TO PRESSURIZE WATER SYSTEM.
SUPPLIES POWER TO SHOWER SUMP PUMPS
SUPPLIES POWER TO MACERATOR PUMP
NOTE: THESE DEVICES ARE USED FOR DIRECT
OVERBOARD DISCHARGE OF RAW SEWAGE, BE AWARE OF YOUR LOCAL BOATING REG. BEFORE USING.
SUPPLIES POWER TO REF. COMPRESSOR, ADJUST THERMOSTATS INSIDE FRIDGE/FREEZER TO DESIRED TEMP.
SUPPLIES POWER TO 360 DEGREE LIGHT AT TOP OF MAST, USE WHEN ANCHORED AT NIGHT.
SUPPLIES POWER TO STEAMING LIGHT LOCATED ON FWD. SIDE OF MAST APPROXIMATELY AT THE HEIGHT OF
THE LOWER SPREADERS. USE AT NIGHT (WITH RUNNING LIGHTS) WHEN VESSEL UNDERWAY BY ENGINE POWER.
SUPPLIES POWER TO MAST MOUNTED DECK LIGHT
SUPPLIES POWER TO THE BOW, STERN , & COMPASS LIGHT. USE AT NIGHT UNDER SAIL AND/OR ENGINE POWER.
SUPPLIES POWER TO L.P. GAS SWITCH AT GALLEY. SEE "L.P. GAS MANUAL" FOR OPER. & SAFETY INST.
SUPPLIES POWER TO THE VHF RADIO
SUPPLIES POWER TO WATER AND WASTE TANK GAUGES
SUPPLIES POWER TO DEPTH, & SPEED REPEATERS LOCATED ON HELM CONSOLE.
TOGGLE SWITCH STAYS IN THE "AUTO" POSITION, THIS ALWAYS FEEDS POWER TO THE FLOAT SWITCH (AS LONG
AS BATTERY IS CONNECTED AND HAS AMPLE CHARGE). FOR MANUAL USE, PUSH SWITCH TO "MANUAL"
ILLUMINATED LIGHT INDICATES POWER TO PUMP, THUS PUMP SHOULD BE RUNNING. PRIOR TO LEAVING VESSEL
"MANUALLY" TEST PUMP AND CHECK BATTERY LEVEL. SEE BATTERY SELECT SWITCH BELOW.
SUPPLIES POWER TO UP/DOWN CONTROLS AT ANCHOR WELL.
NOTE: BECAUSE THE WINDLASS DRAWS IT'S
POWER FROM THE START BATTERY, IT IS GOOD PRACTICE TO START THE SHIPS ENGINE PRIOR TO OPERATING
WINDLASS TO PREVENT BATTERY DRAIN. (IF NO POWER CHECK RESET ON REMOTE PANEL @ NAV STATION)
THIS BREAKER PROVIDED FOR AN OPTIONAL AUTOPILOT SYSTEM.
SUPPLIES POWER TO THE VENTILATION BLOWER IN THE ENGINE BOX
*SEE NOTATION BELOW
THESE POWER PLUGS PROVIDED FOR CELLPHONE, LAPTOP COMPUTER, ETC.
INDICATORS ILLUMINATE WHEN 12 V.D.C. POWER PRESENT.
IF THE OPTIONAL AUTOPILOT WAS INSTALLED AT THE FACTORY, THE "INSTRUMENTS" POWER LEADS ARE WIRED
TO THE AUTOPILOT BREAKER. (THIS APPLIES TO THE OPTIONAL G.P.S. AS WELL) THIS ALLOWS THESE UNITS TO
WORK SIMULTANEOUSLY OFF THE AUTOPILOT BREAKER.
SEE PAGE 64B-1 FOR BREAKER AMPERAGES. SEE NOTATION BELOW.
*NOTE THE SPARE BREAKERS ON THIS PANEL EXIST BECAUSE THIS MODEL MAY NOT HAVE OPTIONED THE
COINCIDING ACCESSORY FOR THAT BREAKER. FOR EXAMPLE, ON THIS PANEL, THE AUTOPILOT AND WINDLASS
ARE OPTIONAL ITEMS AND MAY NOT HAVE BEEN REQUESTED. IF THIS IS THE CASE WITH YOUR MODEL, THEN
THESE BREAKERS WILL THEN BECOME SPARES. BE AWARE OF THE BREAKER'S AMPERAGES TO BE SURE THAT IT
IS COMPATIBLE WITH ANY DEVICE THAT IS TO BE CONNECTED TO IT.
PAGE 63A-5
120V.A.C.
(230 OVERSEAS MODELS)
DISTRIBUTION PANEL
BREAKERS DESCRIPTION
"A" SIDE OF A.C. PANEL
BUS "A" BREAKER
GENERATOR
OUTLETS 1
OUTLETS 2
MICROWAVE
WATER HEATER
BATT. CHARGER
PROVIDES A.C. VOLTAGE TO THIS SIDE OF PANEL WHEN SHORE POWER CORD "A" IS CONNECTED TO OUTLET AT
DOCKSIDE POWER SUPPLY.
SUPPLIES POWER FROM GENERATOR TO BOTH SHORE POWER "A" AND SHORE POWER "B" (AIR COND.) SIDES OF
PANEL. NOTE: TO PROVIDE POWER TO SHORE POWER "B" SIDE OF PANEL MOVE SLIDE BAR UP AND TURN ON THE
PARALLEL BREAKER ON THE SHORE POWER "B" SIDE OF PANEL.
PROVIDES A.C. POWER TO THE OUTLETS ON THE PORT SIDE OF BOAT.
PROVIDES A.C. POWER TO THE OUTLETS ON THE STBD. SIDE OF BOAT.
SUPPLIES POWER TO OUTLET BEHIND MICRO. IN WHICH MICROWAVE IS PLUGGED INTO.
SUPPLIES POWER TO WATER HEATER. BE SURE TANK IS FULL AND SYSTEM IS FREE FROM AIR BEFORE
APPLYING POWER TO HEATER TO PREVENT ELEMENT BURNOUT. NOTE DO NOT TRY TO POWER WATER HEATER
OFF OF THE OPTIONAL INVERTER, IT IS NOT CAPABLE OF SUPPLYING ENOUGH POWER TO POWER UNIT.
PROVIDES POWER TO BATTERY CHARGER WHICH IN TURN PROVIDES CHARGING POWER TO BATTERIES. NOTE:
IF OPTIONAL INVERTER CHOSEN THIS BREAKER IS NOT UTILIZED AND IS AVAILABLE AS A "SPARE" BREAKER. * SEE BELOW
BUS "B" BREAKER
PARALLEL
FWD AIR COND.
AFT AIR COND
AIR COND RELAY
SPARE
"B" SIDE OF PANEL
PROVIDES A.C. VOLTAGE TO THIS SIDE OF PANEL WHEN SHORE POWER CORD "B" IS CONNECTED TO OUTLET AT
DOCKSIDE POWER SUPPLY.
PROVIDES POWER FROM GENERATOR TO THIS SIDE OF PANEL.(MOVE SLIDE BAR UP TO TURN BREAKER ON.)
PROVIDES POWER TO AIR COND. UNIT (SEE "AIR COND. MANUAL" FOR OPER. INSTRUCTIONS.)
PROVIDES POWER TO AIR COND. UNIT (SEE "AIR COND. MANUAL" FOR OPER. INSTRUCTIONS.)
PROVIDES POWER TO AIR COND. SYSTEM WATER PUMP
ALWAYS TURN RELAY BREAKER ON BEFORE TURNING ON AIR COND UNITS
BREAKER MAY BE ADDED FOR ADDITIONAL OPTIONS. * SEE BELOW
MISC. INFO
LED INDICATORS ILLUMINATE WHEN A.C. POWER PRESENT.
METER SEL. SWITCH ALLOWS VOLTAGE BEING SUPPLIED TO BE DISPLAYED ON VOLT METER.
REV. POLARITY IF REVERSED POLARITY INDICATOR ILLUMINATES AFTER CONNECTING SHORE POWER HAVE DOCKSIDE POWER
CHECKED BY QUALIFIED PERSONELL.
SEE PAGE 63A-12 ,64A, AND 65A-1 FOR INFORMATION CONCERNING BREAKER AMPERAGES NOTE:
SPARE BREAKERS BE AWARE OF THE SPARE BREAKER'S AMPERAGE TO BE SURE THAT IT IS COMPATABLE WITH ANY DEVICE
CONNECTED TO THESE BREAKERS (ADDITIONAL "SPARE BREAKER" LOCATIONS PROVIDED ONLY)
NOTE: A PRUDENT MARINER REALIZES THAT THE RESOURCES TO POWER A VESSEL ARE
LIMITED. WHEN USING THE INVERTER OR GENERATOR ONE SHOULD BE CONSERVATIVE AND
AWARE OF THE AMOUNT OF POWER BEING SUPPLIED VERSES POWER BEING DRAWN. THIS
IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT WHEN USING OPTIONAL INVERTER POWER. CONSULT THE
"INVERTER MANUAL" FOR POWER OUTPUT CAPABILITIES.
PAGE 63A-6
MASTER ELECTRICAL AMPERAGE DATA
12V.D.C. SYSTEM
CIRCUIT/BREAKER
D.C. MAIN
PANEL LIGHTS
CABIN LIGHTS
COURTESY LIGHTS
TANK INDICATOR
W ATER PRESSURE
SHOW ER SUMP
MACERATOR
FREEZER
ENTERTAINMENT
REFRIGERATION
L.P. GAS
W INDLASS (SW ITCH)
INSTRUMENTS
G.P.S.
V.H.F.
AUTO-PILOT
ANCHOR LIGHT
STEAMING LIGHT
DECK LIGHT
RUNNING LIGHTS
COMPASS (TIES TO RUN. LIGHTS)
HOUSE BATTERY CABLES
ENGINE STARTER CABLE
WINDLASS (MOTOR) CABLE
AMPERAGE
75amp
5amp
30amp
10amp
5amp
15amp
15amp
20amp
15amp
40amp
15amp
5amp
5amp
5amp
5amp
10amp
25 amp
5amp
5amp
10amp
10amp
300amp
NONE
90 amp
120V.A.C. SYSTEM
SHORE POWER A.C. MAIN/S
OUTLETS
MICROWAVE OVEN
W ATER HEATER
BATTERY CHARGER
INVERTER
AIR CONDITIONING, FWD
AIR CONDITIONING. AFT
AIR COND. RELAY PUMP
30 amp
15amp
15amp
15amp
15amp
INTERNAL
25amp
20amp
5amp
230V.A.C. SYSTEM (ON SELECT OVERSEAS MODELS ONLY)
SHORE POWER A.C. MAIN/S
OUTLETS
MICROWAVE OVEN
W ATER HEATER
BATTERY CHARGER
INVERTER
AIR CONDITIONING
15 amp
10amp
10amp
10amp
10amp
N/A
15amp
AIR CONDITIONING
AIR COND. RELAY PUMP
10amp
5amp
PAGE 65A-1
MASTER ELECTRICAL WIRING/CABLE DATA
DESCRIPTION
LPG SWITCH/POWER
TANK DISPLAY
FUEL SENDER
NEGATIVE
FWD WATER SENDER
NEGATIVE
WATER PUMP
NEGATIVE
VACCU FLUSH
NEGATIVE
AFT WASTE SENDER
NEGATIVE
AFT SUMP PUMP
NEGATIVE
FWD MACERATOR
NEGATIVE
VHF
NEGATIVE
COURTESY LIGHTS
NEGATIVE
CABIN LIGHTS
NEGATIVE
PORT FWD SPEAKERS
STBD FWD SPEAKERS
PORT AFT SPEAKER
STBD AFT SPEAKER
PORT ARCH SPEAKER
PORT NEGATIVE
STBD ARCH SPEAKER
STBD NEGATIVE
COMPASS BOW LIGHT
STERN LIGHT
NEGATIVE
MAST LIGHT
STEAMING LIGHT
ANCHOR LIGHT
HOUSE BATTERY
NEGATIVE
DC PANEL
DC PANEL NEGATIVE
ENGINE
HALYARD
T.V.
NEGATIVE
REFRIGERATION
FREEZER
NEGATIVE
STEREO/DVD
STEREO POWER
NEGATIVE
INVERTER GROUND
WINDLASS SWITCH
MANUAL BILGE
AUTO BILGE
NEGATIVE
AFT SUMP PUMP
FWD SUMP PUMP
AUTO PILOT
NEGATIVE
CHAINPLATE GROUND
BATTERY CHARGER # 1
BATTERY CHARGER # 2
WIRE SIZE
16 gauge
10-14 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
3/O to 2/O
3/O to 2/O
4 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
10 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
10 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
16 gauge
6 gauge
1/O gauge
2 gauge
10 gauge
10 gauge
10 gauge
10 gauge
10 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
1/O gauge
16 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
12 gauge
8 gauge
8 gauge
4 gauge
8 gauge
8 gauge
WIRE COLOR
ORANGE/RED
RED/ORANGE
PINK,ORANGE/WHITE
YELLOW
ORANGE/BLUE, PINK/BLACK
YELLOW
BROWN
YELLOW
BROWN/PINK
YELLOW
ORANGE/GREEN, PINK/GRAY
YELLOW
BROWN/BLACK
YELLOW
BROWN/WHITE
YELLOW
RED/WHITE
YELLOW
BLUE/WHITE
YELLOW
BLUE
YELLOW
WHITE/RED
WHITE/BROWN
WHITE/GREEN
WHITE/VIOLET
WHITE/PINK
WHITE/YELLOW
WHITE/GRAY
WHITE/BLACK
GRAY/WHITE
GRAY/YELLOW
YELLOW
GRAY
GRAY/GREEN
GRAY/RED
RED
YELLOW
ORANGE/RED
YELLOW
RED
YELLOW
RED
YELLOW
RED/BLACK
RED/WHITE
YELLOW
ORANGE/GREEN
RED
YELLOW
GREEN/YELLOW
TAN
BROWN/RED
BROWN/ORANGE
YELLOW
BROWN/BLACK
BROWN/YELLOW
RED
YELLOW
GREEN/YELLOW
ORANGE/RED
ORANGE/GREEN
PAGE 65A-2
120V.A.C.
(230V. OVERSEAS MODELS)
SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
COMPONENT
SHORE POWER "A"
OUTLETS #1 & 2
MICROWAVE
WATER HEATER
SYMPTOM
NO POWER TO PANEL
NO POWER
NO POWER
NO POWER
WON'T HEAT WATER
WATER TOO COLD/HOT
POSSIBLE SOLUTION/S
SEE "POWER SYSTEM OPERATIONS" PAGE 63A-2
CHECK DOCKSIDE BREAKER AND/OR BREAKER #1
LOCATED IN AFT CABIN OR COCKPIT LOCKER.
CHECK "RESETS" ON (OPT.)INVERTER (SEE "INVERTER MAN.")
SEE "POWER SYSTEM OPERATIONS" PAGE 63A-2
IS OUTLET BREAKER/S ON?
CHECK RESET ON G.F.I. OUTLETS AT
GALLEY & AT NAV. STATION.
CHECK RESETS ON (OPT.) INVERTER (SEE "INVERTER MAN.")
IS BREAKER ON?
SEE "POWER SYSTEM OPERATIONS" PAGE 63A-2
IS MICROWAVE ON?
SEE "MICRO MANUAL"
IS BREAKER ON?
SEE "POWER SYSTEM OPERATIONS" PAGE 63A-2
CHECK "RESET" ON HEATER SEE "WATER
HEATER MANUAL" FOR LOCATION.
SEE "WATER HEATER MANUAL" FOR
THERMOSTAT ADJUSTMENT AND/OR
ELEMENT REPLACEMENT, SEEK QUALIFIED PERSONELL.
BATTERY CHARGER
(STANDARD)
NOT CHARGING BATTERY/S IS SHORE POWER "A" ON
IS BATT. CHARGER BREAKER ON?
IS RESET TRIPPED ON HOUSE BATTERY ON/OFF PANEL
CHECK FUSES BEHIND HOUSE BATT. ON/OFF PANELS
ARE BATTERY CONNECTIONS GOOD?
INVERTER /BATT. CHARGER INV. NOT SUPPLYING A.C.POWER
IS INVERTER REMOTE SWITCH AT NAV STATION ON?
(OPTIONAL) IS DESIRED APPLIANCE BREAKER ON?
(IN INVERTER MODE) INV. ON BUT UNABLE TO OPERATE IS BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW? SEE VOLTAGE
DESIRED APPLIANCE/S DISPLAY ON INVERTER REMOTE PANEL,
ARE YOU ASKING THE INVERTER TO POWER
MORE THAN IT IS CAPABLE? SEE "INVERTER
MANUAL" FOR INFORMATION REGARDING
POWER OUTPUT CAPABILITIES.
INVERTER/
(OPTIONAL)
BATT. CHARGER
(IN CHARGING MODE)
NOT CHARGING BATTERY/S
CHECK "RESETS ON (OPT.) INVERTER (SEE "INVERTER MAN.")
IS SHORE POWER "A".ON?
SEE "POWER SYSTEM OPERATIONS" PAGE 63A-2
IS BATTERY SELECTOR SWITCH IN "ON" POSITION?
CHECK IN-LINE 300amp FUSE AT BATTERY
ARE BATTERY CONNECTIONS GOOD?
INVERTER REMOTE SWITCH SHOULD BE IN
THE "OFF" POSITION. (THIS IS NECESSARY IN THE
EVENT YOU "LOSE" SHORE POWER, THE INVERTER
DOESN'T GO INTO INVERT MODE CAUSING BATT./S
TO DRAIN IF YOU LEFT AN A.C. APPLIANCE ON..
PAGE 65B-1
120V.A.C.
(230V. OVERSEAS MODELS)
SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
CONT:
COMPONENT SYMPTOM POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS
SHORE POWER "B"
AIR COND.
GENERATOR
NO POWER TO PANEL
WON'T TURN ON
TURNS ON THEN SHUTS DOWN
OTHER
SEE "POWER SYSTEMS OPERATION PAGE 63A-2"
CHECK DOCKSIDE BREAKER AND/OR BREAKER #2
IN AFT CABIN OR COCKPIT LOCKER
IS BREAKER ON?
SEE "POWER SYSTEMS OPERATION" PAGE 63A-2
SEE " AIR CONDITIONER" MANUAL
IS AIR COND. RAW WATER PICK UP SEACOCK OPEN?
IF SO, IS WATER CIRCULATING? SEE PAGE 60 FOR
AIR COND. DISCHARGE THRUHULL LOCATION,
IF NOT IS AIR COND. PICKUP BEING RESTRICTED
BY DEBRIS? IS DISCHARGE SEACOCK OPEN?
SEE "AIR CONDITIONER" MANUAL
OPTIONAL GENERATOR (APPLIES TO BOTH "A" & "B" SIDES OF A.C. PANEL)
NO POWER TO STARTER
RUNNING, BUT NO POWER
AT PANEL.
WON'T START
IS START BATT. SELECTOR SWITCH ON?
IS "GENERATOR BREAKER" ON "A" SIDE OF PANEL
ON? (MOVE SLIDE BAR UP TO TURN THIS BREAKER
ON). IS "PARALLEL BREAKER" ON "B" SIDE OF
PANEL ON?
SEE GENERATOR MANUAL
DID YOU FOLLOW PROPER STARTING
PROCEDURE AS DESCRIBED IN THE "GENERATOR
MANUAL"?
DO YOU HAVE AN AMPLE AMOUNT OF DIESEL
FUEL? REMEMBER THE GENERATOR FUEL PICKUP
TUBE IS SHORTER THAN THE PICKUP TUBE FOR
THE ENGINE, THIS PREVENTS GENERATOR FROM
DRAINING TANK SINCE ENGINE POWER IS MORE
IMPORTANT THAN GENERATOR POWER.
REFER TO GENERATOR MANUAL FOR POSSIBLE
FUSE OR RESET ON GENERATOR.
GEN. STARTS THEN SHUTS DOWN IS RAW WATER PICKUP SEACOCK OPEN, OR
OBSTRUCTED?
PAGE 65B-2
12V.D.C. SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TO POWER D.C. PANEL: TURN ON "D.C. MAIN" BREAKER ON BATTERY SWITCH PANEL, IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO TURN
THIS IS TO POWER PANEL ON THE HOUSE BATTERY SWITCH TO THE "ON" POSITION TO SUPPLY POWER TO D.C. PANEL
FOR CHARGING, SEE
PAGE 63A-2 IF NO POWER TO PANEL: CHECK THE 300 amp IN LINE FUSES AT THE HOUSE BATTERIES
OR BATTERY CONNECTIONS IF NECESSARY.
COMPONENT
D.C. MAIN
PANEL LIGHTS
CABIN LIGHTS
SYMPTOM
NO POWER TO PANEL
PANEL WON'T ILLUMINATE
WON'T ILLUMINATE
POSSIBLE SOLUTION/S
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
BATTERY/S CHARGED?
SEE "TO POWER TO PANEL" ABOVE
BATTERY TERMINALS CLEAN?
SEEK QUALIFIED PERSONNEL
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
BULB/S NEED REPLACING?
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE COURTESY LIGHTS
(AT CRTSY. LIGHTS
MAIN SALON)
COURTESY LIGHTS
ENGINE BOX COMP.
COCKPIT CONSOLE
TANK INDICATOR
WATER PRESSURE
SHOWER SUMP
MACERATOR
STEREO
ENTERTAINMENT
SYSTEM
WON'T ILLUMINATE
WON'T ILLUMINATE
TANK LEVEL GAUGES DON'T ILLUMINATE SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
TANK LEVEL DISPLAYED IS INCORRECT TANK SENDING UNIT NEEDS CLEANING
NO POWER
CYCLES ON/OFF EXCESSIVELY
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
FAUCETS OFF? LEAK IN SYSTEM SEE
PAGE 57A, B, C FOR SYSTEM LAYOUT
WON'T PUMP WHEN SUMP BOX FILLED
(PUMP WON'T QUIT RUNNING)
PUMP MAKES NOISE, DOESN'T PUMP
PUMP RUNS BUT DOESN'T PUMP
RUNS BUT DOESN'T DISCHARGE
PUMP MAKES NOISE, DOESN'T PUMP
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
IS FLOAT SWITCH STUCK?
DEBRIS IN PUMP IMPELLER?
DISCHARGE HOSE CLOGGED?
SEACOCK DISCHARGE VALVE CLOSED?
IS DISCHARGE SEACOCK OPEN?
IS WASTE DECK FITTING SECURE, IS
IT PULLING AIR THRU? IF SO REPLACE
0- RING ON CAP.
IS TANK VENT (HULL FITTING) CLOGGED?
SEE PAGE 60A-1,A-2 FOR LOCATIONS
LODGED DEBRIS, TURN OFF POWER TO
PUMP, INSERT SCREWDRIVER INTO
PUMP ARMATURE AT END OF PUMP AND
TURN TO DISLODGE DEBRIS
WON'T TURN ON
STEREO TURNS ON, NO SOUND
VCP WON'T PLAY
WON'T TURN ON
TV TURNS ON, NO SOUND
BULBS/S NEED REPLACING?
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
PLUNGER SWITCH STUCK?
IS SWITCH @ CONSOLE "ON"?
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
IS STEREO UNIT ON?
ARE VOLUME CONTROLS TURNED DOWN?
SEE VIDEO PLAYER OWNERS MANUAL
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE
ARE TV / DVD UNITS ON?
ARE VOLUME CONTROLS TURNED DOWN
TURNED DOWN?
REFRIGERATION WON'T GET COLD
UNIT KEEPS TURNING OFF
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" ABOVE. IS THERMOSTATS
TURNED ON? IS RAW WATER INTAKE VALVE CLOSED?
IS SEACOCK DISCHARGE VALVE CLOSED? IS FILTER
CLEAN? IS THRU HULL CLOGGED? SEEK QUALIFIED PERSONNEL
BILGE PUMP WON'T OPERATE AUTO OR MANUAL
PUMP MAKES NOISE, DOESN'T PUMP
PUMP RUNS BUT DOESN'T DISCHARGE
BATTERY LEVEL O.K.? SEE VOLT METER
CHECK BILGE RESET ON BATTERY SWITCH PANEL.
BATTERY CONNECTIONS GOOD?
DEBRIS IN PUMP IMPELLER?
DISCHARGE HOSE CLOGGED?
NOTE: COMPONENT/S FAILURE COULD ALSO BE THE RESULT OF A POOR "GROUND" CONNECTION. SEE PAGE 64A
FOR BUS BAR LOCATION. DUE TO VIBRATION, WEATHER CONDITIONS, ECT. OCCASIONAL INSPECTION, CLEANING
AND TIGHTENING OF THESE TERMINALS (BY QUALIFIED PERSONNEL) MAY BE NECESSARY.
PAGE 65B-3
SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE CONT:
COMPONENT
WINDLASS
INSTRUMENTS
VHF RADIO
OPTIONAL AUTO PILOT
OPTIONAL GENERATOR
BLOWER
BILGE PUMP
ANCHOR, STEAMING,
DECK, & RUNNING
LIGHTS
12 V.D.C.AUX. PLUG
VOLT METER
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE SOLUTION/S
UP/DOWN CONTROLS DON'T OPERATE
WINDLASS
REPEATERS DON'T OPERATE
WON'T OPERATE
TURNS ON, WON'T TRANSMIT/RECEIVE
WON'T OPERATE
WON'T HOLD STEADY COURSE
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
RADIO TURNED ON?
ANTENNA CONNECTED PROPERLY?
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
IS THERE ANY METAL OBJECTS NEAR
THE FLUX GATE COMPASS LOCATED IN
THE STBD. AFT MAIN BUNK COMP?
CONSTANTLY ADJUSTING HELM SENSITIVITY SETTING SET TO HIGH, SEE
"AUTO PILOT MANUAL" FOR SENSE. ADJ.
WON'T OPERATE SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
IS UNIT "ON"?
WON'T OPERATE AUTO OR MANUAL BATTERY LEVEL O.K.? SEE VOLT METER
CHECK BILGE RESET ON BATTERY
PUMP MAKES NOISE, DOESN'T PUMP
PUMP RUNS BUT DOESN'T DISCHARGE
SWITCH PANEL UNDER CHART TABLE.
BATTERY CONNECTIONS GOOD?
DEBRIS IN PUMP IMPELLER?
DISCHARGE HOSE CLOGGED?
SEACOCK DISCHARGE VALVE CLOSED?
WON'T ILLUMINATE
NO POWER PRESENT
NO VOLTAGE DISPLAYED
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
WINDLASS SWITCH AT WINDLASS RESET
PANEL ON? IS RESET TRIPPED?
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
DO TRANSDUCERS NEED CLEANING?
SEE INSTRUMENTS MANUAL
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
CHECK CONNECTIONS IN ACCESS
PANEL TOP OF COMPRESSION POST.
BULBS NEED REPLACING?
CHECK IN-LINE FUSE BACK OF PANEL
SEE "TO POWER PANEL" PREV. PAGE
CK. FUSES ON HSE. BATT. ON/OFF PANEL
ARE BATTERY CONNECTIONS GOOD?
HAVE BATTERIES CHECKED
HAVE METER CHECKED BY QUALIFIED
PERSONNEL.
PAGE 65B-4

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