Brassmasters EasiChas Instructions Manual

Brassmasters www.brassmasters.co.uk

Scale

Models

EasiChas

Chassis and Detailing Kit for

Bachmann MR/LMS 1F 0-6-0 Tank

Locomotive

For EM and P4 Gauges only

Instructions

Additional components available separately:



Replacement loco splashers for P4

PO Box 1137 Sutton Coldfield B76 1FU

Copyright Brassmasters 2016

1

1.1

Introduction

The Easichas frames for the Bachmann 1F locomotive, based on the original concept devised by John Brighton, have been specifically designed to allow easy conversion to EM or P4 gauge, which results in a fully sprung locomotive. Furthermore, the basic conversion can be completed without the need to solder any of the main components together.

1.2 The kit is designed to cover the locomotives that had replacement frames, and the numbers on the Bachmann models are all from these engines. It is possible to use the kit for the earlier frames and there is a half-etched line on the inside of the kit frames to show the profile of these. The keep plate is also designed to accommodate the earlier frames. However, the builder will need to provide new firebox sides and a large part of the original Bachmann chassis block will show below the frames.

There are other minor differences including a curved front edge to the frame above the footplate.

The locomotives with replacement frames were:

1661, 1686, 1698, 1699, 1702, 1708, 1709, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1720, 1724, 1725, 1726, 1734, 1736, 1739, 1745, 1746, 1749,

1752, 1753, 1754, 1763, 1773, 1777, 1803, 1804 (all with 40000 added under BR).

1.3 There are various levels of conversion with the builder choosing which, of any, additional detail is required beyond the basic conversion.

1.4 Basic level of conversion makes use of: fold-up mainframes, keep plate and ashpan with sprung bearings

1.5 Further components are provided to add to the detail of the conversion. These are, working from the front: buffer beam brackets front and rear that support the sandboxes replacement coupling rods replacement brake hangers and blocks replacement brake pull rods and brake shaft replacement bunker coal rails

1.6 Unfortunately, it is not possible to re-use the Bachmann loco pick-ups on this EasiChas. A suggested method for making pick-ups for the loco has been given, which has worked very successfully on the test build, although there are many other methods which the builder may prefer to use.

1.7 Suitable wheels are available from Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Markits. Alan Gibson do a standard replacement wheel pack using 3mm axles. This allows re-use of the original gear wheel without modification. Ultrascale and Markits use 1/8” axles, which means that if these wheels are used, the gear wheel will require drilling out (a relatively easy task and can be done using hand tools). If using Ultrascale or Markits wheels, the bearings in the kit will need to be returned to Brassmasters, who will replace them with a 1/8” set.

2 General Notes

2.1 There is just one etch for the EasiChas and detail. Numbers shown in square brackets [ ] in the instructions refer to the etch. The part number appears on the etch diagram at the end of these instructions. Certain parts, e.g. bolts, wire, springs, are not numbered.

2.2

2.3

Some of the parts are small and easily damaged, so do please take care. Parts should be removed from the sheets as and when needed by use of a small scalpel etc., and the tabs and etch cusp removed with a small fine-cut file.

All folds and bends are made with the half-etched line on the inside unless otherwise stated.

On some parts it is necessary to emboss rivet / bolt heads from the reverse sides by use of a punch. 2.4

2.5 rivets.

There are half-etched test rivet holes on the back of the etch edging strip. Use these to get used to forming uniform

2.6 You should look at instruction 5.1 regarding pre-preparing the wheels before commencing building .

User guide 2.7

We have created a user guide on our website

– www.brassmasters.co.uk

. In which we have taken advantage of the medium to provide more detail than we can include in traditional paper-based Instructions. In particular, it includes selected prototype photographs which are quick and easy to view. We hope you will find this new way of presenting our instructions helpful when building your model, and welcome your comments on it. It is an excellent way to familiarise yourself with the kit, particularly since the constructional photographs are reproduced to a much larger size than those included below. The close-up pictures of the preserved 41708 should be particularly helepful.

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3

3.1

Before you start

Tools Required

A selection of cross head and normal miniature screwdrivers

Small pliers

Small plastic bags and labels to identify parts and screws when dismantling

Small files

Soldering iron (for electrical connections)

A steel rule

Back to Back wheel gauge

Plastic solvent, superglue and epoxy resin (24 hour and 5 minute)

3.2 In all cases bag and label all small parts and source of screws as soon as removed (they are all different) - trust us on this one!

4

4.1

Dismantling the Locomotive

Unscrew the front and rear screws, pull the chassis vertically to remove it from the body.

4.2 To remove the keeper plate (with brakes attached), remove the remaining screws to allow the keeper plate to be removed and remove the wheels. Remove the glued-on sandboxes (by twisting with pliers) and sand pipes from the keeper plate. Store these for use later.

4.3 With the wheels removed from the chassis, unscrew the machine screws from the wheels and remove the coupling rods. Put the screws back into the wheels for safekeeping. The chassis should now look like the photo. De-grease the chassis sides.

4.4 Hold the centre wheels and with a twisting pulling motion pull off the wheels from the axle. Also, slide off the brass bush.

4.5 Place the axle with centre gear in a vice such that the gear wheel is supported on the vice sides but the axle is loose, tap the axle with a hammer or similar and the gear wheel will slide off the axle. If you do not have a vice use a pair of pliers on one side of the gear wheel, gently slide the plastic gear down and off the axle by holding the axle vertical and pressing down. It is very important not to damage this gear .

4.6 You will now have a box of bits and an invalid Bachmann guarantee!

5 Basic loco conversion

5.1 If you are using Alan Gibson wheels you may need to drill the crankpin holes using a 0.65mm drill. The hole must be perpendicular to the wheel. The following will prevent problems with loose crankpins. Countersink the rear of the crankpin screw holes using a 3mm drill and half screw the 12BA screws home. Using 24 hour epoxy smear the remaining thread and screw the 12BA screws home. Smear a little epoxy over the head for additional security but there should not be a big blob that will catch on wheel rotation. Leave in a warm place for 24 hours to set. This will retain the screws and stop them from rotating. See photo (before the epoxy was applied) of a larger diameter but similar wheel.

5.2 Identify all the items within the main frame

[L1], remove them and store them safely. Remove the loco mainframes [L1] and clean up the residual tabs with a small file.

5.3 Place the frames flat on the bench and with a thin metal rule fold to produce a ‘U’ section. Either again using a ruler or using a strong pair of pliers, fold up the small sections along the edge of the main frames at 90 degrees.

File off the ‘cusp’ at the end of these top fold sections. Then fold up both end sections making sure that the bends are at right angles. See Photo

5.4 Ensure the mainframes fit over the original Bachmann chassis. The frames should sit parallel to the Bachmann frames and not be

‘splayed’ out at the top. If necessary, file the top strips back to ensure this. See Photo. Remove the mainframes.

5.5 Check the fit of the brass bearings into the slots in the mainframes. If tight, using a smooth sharp file lightly file away

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the cusp equally on both of the edges of the slots until the bearing slides up and down with no binding. It is very important that too much metal is not removed resulting in a sloppy fit – no side play whatsoever is the aim, just a smooth sliding fit.

5.6 Fold up the front mounting bracket [L2] and the rear mounting bracket [L3]. Check that they fit in the recess at each end of the Bachmann chassis and that the bottom edges will fit flush with the bottom of the chassis block.

5.7 Identify all the items within and attached to the outside of the keep plate

[L4], remove them and store them safely. Remove the keep plate [L4].

Fold down the three dummy springs along each side of the keep plate and then fold up the two sections between the leading and middle axles. Finally, fold the four ashpan tabs down until they are at 45 degrees to the keep plate.

5.7 Test fit the keeper plate and the frames to the Bachmann chassis, and then put the two mounting brackets in place and ensure that the holes line up with those in the frames and keeper plate. Put a 10 BA screw through the holes nearest to the chassis in the front and back brackets and fit a nut from the bottom. Now fit the assembly to the Bachmann body and make sure that the holes in the assembly match up with the holes in the body. Any misalignment can be corrected with slight adjustment to the bends in the brackets, frames and keep plate. The original Bachmann screws are used to mount the body on the frames.

5.8 Unless you are using the replacement etched brake gear, f old up the ‘cups’ on the frame sides and keep plate front that will hold the Bachmann plastic brake hangers so that they form a flat bottom gentle ‘L’ shape with a slight sloping upright.

IMPORTANT - Carefully examine the bearings as they are not symmetrical . It can be seen that the flange on one side of the slot is wider than the other side. For EM gauge, the bearings need to be mounted in the frames with the thicker flange towards the centre of the frames. For P4 gauge, the bearings need to be mounted with the thinner flange towards the centre of the frames. Increased side-play on the drivers can be obtained by having the thin side of the bearings on the outside or rubbing off the circular beading round the axle hole. For EM gauge, it will be necessary to file off the raised rim on the inside face of the bearings to ensure the bearings move up and down freely.

5.9 Again fit the mainframes and brackets to the Bachmann chassis, place the bearings in the slots and check for easy movement. See Photo in section 5.4.

5.10 Temporarily fit the keep plate, using the 10BA screws and nuts. Ensure the bearings slide to the bottom of each slot in the keep plate.

5.11 It is now time to fit the front and rear brackets to the chassis. Firstly, attach the 10BA nuts over the tops of the holes holding them in place using the 10BA screws (if soldering, put oil on the threads to prevent the screws being soldered as well). Apply a smear of epoxy or cyocryanolate to the mating face on the bracket and place in position so that the bottom of the bracket is flush with the bottom on the chassis

(remember, any more than a smear will displace the bracket holes for lining up with the frames and keep plate). (We actually did this with the frames mounted on the chassis to hold the brackets in the correct position)

The front 10BA screw will foul the screw on the Bachmann body. Either shorten the front screw level with the top of the nut or remove the Bachmann screw (there are four others holding the body to the footplate.

5.12 Take the new 3mm axles and test fit them, firstly in the axleboxes (if tight ream them out to

3mm using a reamer or, if you do not have one, a small round file, a precision drill or a broach), then place each through the axleboxes and through the

“slots” in the Bachmann chassis block. If the axles catch the side of the chassis block, file away the offending part of the block.

5.13 If you are using Alan Gibson wheels you may find the axles are slightly over length for P4. They need to be approximately 22.1 mm long. You will also need to re-use the Bachmann axle gear wheel. Fit the worm wheel onto the new axle by gentle pushing the gearwheel onto the axle, ensuring that the gear wheel is offset on the axle preferably with the larger shoulder towards the centreline of the chassis. It is essential that the same amount of axle should be protruding each side of the chassis when it is fitted because clearances behind the splashers are small. See photo.

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5.14 Take the axles and file the sharp edges off the end to a rounded profile. Use a drill bit of around 5mm diameter to chamfer the rear of each wheel axle hole. T hese two actions help the axle to ‘centre’ in the wheel when they are pressed on.

Mount the bearings on all axles the correct way round , adding any spacing washers required (there will be about 1.2mm lateral movement on an axle with no washers in 18.83 gauge

– so not many washers are required). For both EM and P4 we suggest one full washer on each side of the leading and trailing wheels. Finally, press the wheels on the axles.

5.15 Press the wheels home with a back-to-back gauge between the wheels. This gauge should be an interference fit between the wheel backs with no ‘slop’. Ensure this is so by turning each wheel through 90 degrees to check for wobble, and, if present, twist the wheel. The Gibson axles are a little shorter than the distance between wheel bosses (about 0.25mm each side) so do not press them fully home. Quarter the wheels with the right hand wheel leading the left hand wheel by 90 degrees.

We do this by setting the driven axle first so a wheel spoke is horizontal on one side and vertical at the other, then each other wheelset fitted is lined up with the horizontal spoke, the chassis turned over very carefully, and the spoke on the other side lined up by eye against those on the driven axle.

5.16 Place the bearing springs over the tongues on the frames (a small dab of grease on the spring will keep it in place). Fit the wheelsets into the main frames and attach the keep plate. See Photo. Check that the motor turns the middle wheelset with no sign of any binding by applying power to the motor. Check the wheels spring freely with no binding and test fit to the plastic body. Remove the springs and put them safe while working on the rods and checking for free running.

5.17 Glue or solder the two brake shaft brackets [L5] to the outside of the frame using a piece of 0.6mm wire to ensure alignment.

5.18 Push through the four rivets in each guard iron [L6] and [ L7] for the front, [L8] and [L9] for the rear and form to a slight

‘S’ shape. Glue or solder the front ones inside the frames at the front (there is a mark on the frames) with the curved face towards the rear, and the rear ones at the back (again there is a mark on the frames) with the curved face towards the front.

5.19 Using about a 3mm diameter rod (or an axle or even the shank of a jeweller’s screwdriver) as a former, curve up the half-etched sides of the ash pan [ L10 ] and [L11] with the half-etch to the inside.

5.20 If you are going to fit the fully etched version of the brake blocks and hangers it is easiest to do this now so jump to section 7.3.

Coupling rods

5.21 Fit the Bachmann coupling rods with the six bushes provided.

This will require each hole to be opened up to with a rat-tail round file to accept the bushes, if you are careful, these can be an interference fit. If not, the bushes have to be soldered or glued with epoxy centrally in place and if needed reamed out to take the Gibson crankpin bushes

(see photo).

A finer scale solution is to solder up a new set of coupling rods, but this of course takes longer (see section 7.1).

5.22 Fit the rods and temporarily secure with a piece of electrical wire sleeve (this does not come unscrewed unlike a proper 14BA nut! We couldn’t find any for the photo so it had to be the 14BA nuts) The rod with the joint (as Photo) is the trailing rod on both sides. Check that all the wheels now turn without binding when power is applied to the motor and are quartered correctly.

5.23 Fit the six springs above the axleboxes to achieve a fully sprung chassis. Even though theoretically impossible, the front springs can disappear from a completed loco. A drop of 5 minute epoxy at their extreme top where they bear onto the chassis will secure them – trust us on this one!

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Electrical pick-ups

5.24 It is not possible to re-use the Bachmann pick-ups so you will need to fabricate your own. Many modellers have their own ideas on pick-ups; this is how we do it. Using a copperclad sleeper (cut to fit between the keeper plate springs) and 33 swg phosphor bronze wire (not supplied but available from

Eileen’s Emporium), wind a ‘spring’ shape with extended end. We clamp a fine screwdriver in the vice and, holding the wire one end in the fingers and the other in a pair of round nose pliers, form the spring round the screw driver shaft. Note one pickup is wound clockwise, one anti-clockwise . Solder to the copperclad (gapping it after soldering) as per the photo.

5.25 Glue the pick-ups to the chassis keeper plate in the position shown in the photo so they gently press onto the wheel flanges. Test the polarity and direction of travel with another loco and connect together with brass wire and to the motor with wire. Test run with and without the body fitted. When happy, remove the temporary crank pins, shorten the bushes and fit the crankpin bushes (note, if you are going to fit new coupling rods as per section 7.1 do NOT shorten the bushes ). Note: the photo is of a similar arrangement on a different loco.

5.26 Re-fit the loco body.

Brakes

5.27 There are several options for the brakes. The simplest is to re-use the plastic brake blocks, brake pull rods and the brake shaft. The next is to use the plastic brake blocks with the etched pull rods and brake shaft components, or finally the replacement etched brake gear. For the second or third options please see section 7.3. The simplest method is shown below.

5.28 Carefully cut the brake blocks and brake shaft, complete with pull rods, off the Bachmann keeper plate by sawing next to the main part of the centre solid section. See photo.

5.29 Clean up the cut line on the plastic brake hangers to ensure there are no raised edges and if necessary shorten the plastic hanger back ‘studs’ (that fit in the ‘cups’) so they line up with the wheel treads. Remember the chassis is sprung and the wheels will move upwards under the loco weight. Drill a 0.6mm hole in the centre of the brake shaft part way through from the cut edge.

5.30 The brake shaft can be assembled as detailed in 7.2 or simply a piece of 0.6mm wire threaded through the holes in the brake shaft brackets and fixed in place, so that about 3mm protrudes each side.

5.31 Attach the front brakes only to the brake hanger saddles on the keep plate using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

5.32 Carefully fit the keep plate to the frames flexing the rigging so that the middle and trailing brake blocks rest in their saddles on the frames, and push the plastic brake shafts over the protruding 0.6mm wire through the brake shaft brackets.

Balance weights

5.33 There two types of wheel balance weights, a block type and a crescent type. Check photographs of your chosen loco and decide which type are fitted to which wheel (they were mixed on some locos).

5.34 Carefully remove and clean up with a file the required balance weights (block type driving wheel [L12] , block type leading and trailing [L13] , crescent type driving [L14] , crescent type leading and trailing [L15] ) and then attach these to the wheels using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin, again using photos as a positioning guide (see www.rail-online.co.uk

for a selection of photos).

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Sandboxes

5.35 The Bachmann sandboxes are the correct shape, although the fillers should be offset towards the wheels slightly (0.3 mm). These can be simply refitted to the frames or, if fitting the buffer beam brackets (see section 7.4), fitted to these.

5.36 Grip the sand pipes with a pair of pliers and remove them from the sandboxes. Straighten the end where it went into the sandbox. Drill a 0.7 mm hole in the bottom of the box 2 mm from the rear edge and on the centre line for the sand pipe.

5.37 The sandboxes need spacing off the frames. Cut a piece of 0.4 mm plastic strip and a piece of 0.25 mm plastic strip 6 mm long and attach to the back of the Bachmann sandboxes using cyanoacrylate glue, epoxy resin or butanone. File the plastic spacer to the same shape as the

Bachmann sandboxes.

5.38 Attach the sandboxes to the frame using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. They are positioned so that the top of the sandbox is level with the bottom of the slots in the frame, the front box being 2 mm from the front edge of the frames and rear box being just under 4 mm from the back edge of the frame. Note: the plastic strip will need cutting back on the rear boxes to clear the brake shaft bracket.

5.39 Refit the Bachmann sand pipes or make new ones from 0.7mm wire.

5.40 Fit the frames to the loco chassis and then screw the keep plate into place using the 10BA screws, then fit the assembly to the loco body and screw into place using the original Bachmann screws.

5.41 And that is the basic EasiChas complete.

6 Not used

7 Additional components

The following additional items are provided in the kit and may be used if the builder requires.

7.1 Replacement coupling rods

7.1.1 Each side is manufactured from four etches and hinged behind the centre crank pin. There are also overlays for the bosses. The left hand side and right hand side rods are the same.

7.1.2 Cut one pair of leading coupling rods from fret [ L16 & L17 ].

7.1.3 Open the crankpin holes using a 1.5 mm drill. When complete drill a hole using the same size drill perpendicular in a scrap piece of wood. Leave the drill in the hole in the wood. Tin the mating surfaces of a pair of coupling rods and place over the drill. This holds one end of the rods accurately ready for soldering. It is critical to align the two halves exactly in order to make one rod so take some time tweaking. See photo.

7.1.4 Place a little flux along the top surface of the rod and apply heat; the solder on the soldering iron will run down between the rods and join them. The secret is to apply only a little solder at a time. Solder will fill the “cusp” and give the impression of a solid rod. See photo left. Repeat for the whole length of the rod.

7.1.5 Next cut one pair of trailing coupling rods [L18} and [L19] and assemble in the same way keeping the forked end clear of solder.

7.1.6 Repeat for the other leading and trailing rods.

7.1.7 There are two different boss overlays for the front rods and another two for the rear rods. Working from the front of the locomotive, half-etched boss overlays [ L20 ] are fitted to both the inside and outside of the front coupling rod boss and halfetched large bosses [ L21] are fitted to the inside and outside of the front of the centre boss. The half-etched fork overlays [ L22 ] are fitted to the inside and outside of the forked end of the back rod. Finally, half-etched boss overlays [ L20 ] are fitted to the inside and outside of the trailing end boss. Using the appropriate bosses, apply each boss holding it in place with a cocktail stick

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and solder in place using the same technique as for joining the rods. Clean up each rod with files. Carefully blend the boss es into the front face of the rods.

7.1.8 The rear length of each rod has a knuckle joint to be manufactured.

The front and rear rods are joined with a short length of 0.9 mm nickel silver wire pushed through from the front and then cropped back on the rear. leaving about 0.5 mm proud. See photo.

7.1.9 To stop solder flooding the joint apply a little oil to the surfaces not to be soldered - this will prevent the solder running into the joint. Keep the rear of the rod clean. Solder can then be quickly applied with a very hot iron to the back of the rod to fix the wire in place. Clean off excess solder leaving enough to keep a strong joint. See photo above of completed rods.

7.1.10 Repeat for the other rods on the other side of the loco, using the same part numbers.

7.1.11 Open up the crankpin holes so that the crankpin bushes will rotate in the rod. This can be done with a reamer, broach or a fine Swiss file

7.1.12 Fit the rods to the wheels and test run. A comparison between the Bachmann rods

(lower) and the replacements is shown in the photo.

7.2 Brake shaft

Note: it is possible to remove the keep plate if the fitting brake shaft as the bends in the frames and keep plate have been designed to allow this.

7.2.1 The brake shaft can be made up with or without the handbrake lever and the steam brake lever between the frames, and either with the original Bachmann outer brake shaft and brake pull rod levers or replacement ones.

7.2.2 Cut a piece of 0.6 mm wire 22 mm long.

7.2.3 If not fitting the handbrake lever and steam brake lever, cut a piece of 1.2 mm tube to fit between the brake shaft brackets on the frames. Insert between the frames, feed the 0.6 mm wire through one frame, through the tube and through the other frame, soldering all in place with an equal amount of 0.6 mm wire protruding each side.

7.2.4 If fitting the hand brake lever, cut two pieces of 1.2 mm tube 11 mm and 2 mm long.

7.2.5 Starting from the brake shaft bracket on the left hand side looking forwards, put the piece of 0.6 mm wire through the bracket, then slide over the inner end of the wire the spacing washer [L23], then the half-etched washer [L24], then the handbrake lever [L25], then the 11 mm length of 1.2 mm tube, then the steam brake lever [L26]. File the 2mm length of tube to fit between the steam brake lever and the other brake shaft bracket. Finally push the 0.6 mm wire through the short length of tube, and then through the brake shaft bracket on the other side of the frame. Ensure the steam brake lever is the correct way up.

7.2.6 Take the two handbrake pull rods [L27] and [L28] and open out the holes to clear 0.5 mm wire. Then fold the half-etched top piece of [L27] back on itself on the opposite side to the full etched piece. Drill a 0.5 mm drill vertically into a piece of scrap wood then first place [L28] over the drill with the full etched piece upwards and then [L27] with the full etched piece downwards, align the two on top of each other and solder together.

7.2.7 With the handbrake lever orientated so that the fold over top section is adjacent to the nearest frame, put an over length piece of 0.6 mm wire through the handbrake pull rods and the hand brake lever, adjust the rod and lever angle as shown in the diagram and attach the handbrake lever to the frame (the top of the lever should be level with the bottom edge of the slots in the frame for the buffer beam brackets and should rest against the edge of the guard iron).

7.2.8 Attach the steam brake lever to the underside of the frame cross piece.

7.2.9 Ensuring that an equal amount of 0.6 mm wire is protruding either side of the frames, solder the wire, tube and levers in place. Solder the wire through the joint in the handbrake lever and trim back both sides.

7.2.10 Open out the holes in the pull rod levers [L29] and pull rod lever spacers [L30] to 0.6 mm.

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7.2.11 Drill a 0.6 mm hole vertically in a piece of scrap wood. Insert a piece of 0.6 mm wire and then place over the wire a pull rod lever [L29], a pull rod lever spacer [L30] and another pull rod lever [L29]. Using a piece of 0.6 mm wire in the smaller hole to align the two parts of the lever, solder the pull rod lever together. Repeat for the second lever.

7.3 Replacement brake blocks and hangers

7.3.1 The plastic brakes are rather nicely moulded. However metal replacement brake hangers can be fitted if the Bachmann brake hangers are lost or a metal replacement is preferred. Remember plastic does not produce an electrical short and the wheels are sprung., so move vertically!

7.3.2 If fitting the etched replacement brake hangers/blocks, the brake gear needs to be removable otherwise it is impossible to remove the wheels.

7.3.3 Take the brake hangers [ L31 ] and the left hand brake block overlays [ L32 ]. Open up the holes in the top, middle and bottom of the brake hangers, the top to clear 0.5 mm wire, the middle to clear 0.7 mm wire and the bottom to clear 0.6 mm wire.

7.3.4 Solder together the brake hangers [ L31 ] and the left hand brake block overlays [ L32 ], utilising a short piece of 0.7mm wire in the centre hole to assist alignment. Trim the wire to length. Repeat for the right hand brake hangers using parts [ L31] and [ L33 ].

7.3.5 Remove the wheels and EasiChas from the Bachmann chassis block.

Cut and file off the ‘saddles’ that would have been used to re-fit the plastic Bachmann brakes on the frames and remove the two forward extensions that support the saddles on the front of the keeper plate.

7.3.6 Attach three pieces of 0.5 mm wire to form the support wires across the mainframes using the holes provided protruding and equal amount (at least 5 mm) beyond the frames on both sides. If using the later type of brake hanger bracket, slide the brake hanger bracket inner etches, [ L34 ] for left hand side, [ L35 ] for the right hand side, over the wire and solder to the frames with the vertical longer face leading (see photo in 7.3.23).

7.3.7 Cut six short pieces (around 1.0

– 1.5 mm) of 1.0 mm tube. Slide one piece onto either side of the leading support wire

7.3.8 Place a brake hanger/block on each side of the leading wire and position them the correct distance in to suit the wheels you are using. Slide the tube up to the brake hanger/block. Remove the brake hangers and solder the tube to the wire. Repeat for the centre and trailing wheels.

7.3.9 Cut three pieces of 0.6 mm wire 28 mm long to form the brake tie bars.

7.3.10 There are two ways now to attach the brake hanger assemblies to the brake tie bars (not the support wires).

7.3.11 The easiest is to make up a jig from a piece of wood, plastikard etc. the same distance across as the outside measurement of the tube soldered to the support wires in 7.3.8.

(We used a piece of wood with the ends squared off, with the brake hangers held in place with blu-tac).

7.3.11.1 One of each hand of brake block is then attached to each side of the jig with the bottom end protruding beyond the jig.

7.3.11.2 A length of 0.6 mm wire is then put through the holes in the bottom of the brake block assembly, with an equal amount protruding each side. Solder the wire in place.

7.3.11.3 Repeat for the other two brake block/tie bar assemblies.

7.3.12 The less easy way is to assemble the brake block/tie bar assemblies in position.

7.3.12.1 This is done with the wheels in place. If you get flux on the treads of the wheels they will rust

– we protect them with a thin piece of masking tape during this process.

7.3.12.2 With the frames upside down, position the two brake hangers on the leading support wire. Slide a piece of 0.6 mm wire through the bottom hole of both brake hangers.

7.3.12.3 Holding one of the leading brake hangers vertically resting against the wheel, solder it to the 0.6 mm wire ( not to the brake hanger cross wire ). Repeat for the other side.

7.3.12.4 Repeat for the other two brake block/tie bar assemblies.

7.3.13 Check that the brake hangers are in the correct position across the face of the wheels. If not, adjust either the 0.6 mm tie bar or the small piece of tube on the cross wire, or both.

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7.3.14 Having made sure that there is a good soldered joint between the cross wire and the frames, with a piercing saw cut the brake hanger wire between the frames. As long as the first cut is made with a saw, the wires can then be trimmed back with cutters. Note

– the first cut must not be made with cutters .

7.3.15 Take the two brake pull rods [L36] and [L37] and attach the leading and centre pull rod overlays [L38] to the inside of the pull rod (the inside is the side which has a part half-etched at the rear end). Attach a rear pull rod inner overlay [L39] to the inside of the pull rods and a rear pull rod outer overlay [L40] to the outside of the pull rods. Drill out all the holes 0.6 mm.

7.3.16 Place the two brake pull rods over the tie rods on each side of the brake blocks and adjust sideways to give sufficient clearance so as not to touch the wheels when they are at the limit of their sideplay. Pull the leading tie rod forwards to give sufficient clearance between the brake block and the wheel and solder one of the pull rods to the tie rods.

Repeat for the other side pull rod. If you are still happy with the clearances, solder the pull rods to all the other tie rods.

7.3.17 Measure the distance between the frames and the inside of the pull rods.

Cut two pieces of 1.2 mm tube to these lengths less 0.4 mm if no brake shaft bracket overlays are fitted, or less 0.6 mm if they are.

7.3.18 Take the pull rod levers and cut the 0.6 mm wire to half the length of the of the 1.2 mm tube and solder the pull rod levers into the tube. Trim the out wire back flush with the outside of the levers.

7.3.19 Cut back the 0.6 mm wire through the brake shaft to just short of the same length so that the tube and pull rod levers fit over the wire and but up to the face of the brake shaft bracket on the frames.

7.3.20 Using two short pieces of 0.5 mm wire, mount the pull rod ends [L41] in the fork of the pull rod lever so that the half etch part of the pull rod ends are outwards.

7.3.21 Adjust the angle of the pull rod levers to approximately 15 degrees (see photos). Solder the half-etched sections of the pull rod end to the pull rod, then solder the wire through the joint between the pull rod end and the pull rod lever.

Do not solder the tube to the frames .

Repeat for the other side.

7.3.22 The early type brake hanger brackets (outer only) were not included on the main etch. These will be provided on an additional etch.

7.3.23 Finally attach the brake hanger bracket outer etches. For the early type, [E1] for the left hand front and rear, [E2] for the left hand middle, [E3] for the right hand front and rear and [E4] for the right hand middle. For the later type, [ L42 ] for left hand side, [L43 ] for the right hand side. Place over the wire on the outside of the brake hangers and solder in place.

Trim back and file the support wire to the outside of the brake hanger. The brake hangers should just clip off the ends of the cross wires.

The photo shows the position of the later type brake hanger brackets on a similar loco.

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7.4 Buffer beam brackets

7.4.1 On the prototype, behind each side of the buffer beams are large brackets which also support the sandboxes. These are slightly different front and back.

7.4.2 Take the front buffer beam bracket left [L44] and emboss the rivets through the half-etched holes.

Take the front buffer beam bracket upright left [L45] and attach to the front buffer beam bracket at right angles with the full etch part towards the front.

7.4.3 Attach the bracket assembly to the slots in the front left side of the frames. And then attach the front angle strip [L46] to the frame above the bracket.

7.4.4 Repeat for the other front buffer beam bracket [L47] , upright

[L48] , and angle strip [L46] .

7.4.5 The rear brackets, buffer beam bracket left [L49] , buffer beam rear upright [L50] , rear angle strip [L51] , buffer beam bracket right [L52] , buffer beam upright right [ L50] , are assembled and attached in the same way to the rear of the frames.

7.4.6 Modify the Bachmann sand boxes as in 5.36 but do not add the plastic strip to the back . Attach them to the underside of the buffer beam brackets with the circular sandbox filler engaged with the curve in the edge of the bracket using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.4.7 Refit the Bachmann sand pipes or make new ones from 0.7mm wire.

7.5 Replacement splashers

7.5.1 The splashers fitted to the Bachmann body are over scale to accommodate 00 wheel flanges. If modelling in P4, a set of reduced size splashers is available as a separate etch from Brassmasters.

7.6 Replacement bunker coal rails

7.6.1 There are three options provided for in the kit, two for the open cab, and one for the closed cab. These are continuous with a dropped section for the hand brake handle or gapped for the open cab, and simple replacements for the closed cab.

7.6.2 Whichever coal rails you are using, bending is made easier using the jig provided.

7.6.3 Take the jig [L53] and file the cusp in the slots in the jig for the coal rail uprights and also the circular corner cut-outs.

Mount four pieces of 1.0 mm wire approximately 5 mm long vertically in the corners of the jig. As always, the easiest way to get them vertical is to drill a vertical hole in a piece of scrap wood and insert the wire in this whilst soldering to the jig. There is sufficient wire in the kit to allow for this.

7.6.4 For the open cab version, take the chosen coal rails ( [L54] for the dropped section version or

[L55] for the gapped version) and push through the rivets using the half-etched holes. Position the coal rails along the back of the jig and curve the corners around the wire, one corner at a time. Check that the corner radius is tight and at 90 degrees. We used a

1.0 mm drill to help with this. For the continuous rails, attach the two ends to each other.

7.6.5 Bend the legs inwards along the rear edge of the coal rail using the half-etched hole as guide. Place the slot in the jig over the horizontal part of the leg and bend downwards.

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7.6.6 For the closed cab version, utilise the open cab gapped rails [L55] . It will be necessary to trim back the rails to a suitable length to attach to the cab sides, or bend round to attach to the cab back. An additional pair of uprights is provided [L56] and should be added as required to each side of the bunker.

7.6.7 Attach the coal rails to the inside of the Bachmann bunker using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

References

An Illustrated Review of Midland Railway Locomotives Volume 3 – Wild Swan

Midland Railway Locomotives Volume 3 – The Johnson Classes Part 1 – Irwell Press

LMS Review No.2 – Wild Swan

Another excellent source of prototype photographs is www.rail-online.co.uk as shown in the picture below.

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Etched Component List

L20

L21

L22

L23

L24

L25

L26

L13

L14

L15

L16

L17

L18

L19

L27

L28

L29

L1

L2

L3

L4

L5

L6

L7

L8

L9

L10

L11

L12 main frames front mounting bracket rear mounting bracket keep plate brake shaft bracket (2) guard iron front left guard iron front right guard iron rear left guard iron rear right ash pan side left ash pan side right balance weight block type - driving balance weight block type - leading & trailing balance weight crescent type - driving balance weight crescent type - leading & trailing coupling rod leading left hand (2) coupling rod leading right hand (2) coupling rod trailing left hand (2) coupling rod trailing right hand (2) coupling rod front and rear boss overlay (8) coupling boss centre overlay (4) coupling rod fork overlay (4) brake shaft washer brake shaft washer half-etched handbrake lever steam brake lever handbrake pull rod 1 handbrake pull rod 2 pull rod lever (4)

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L49

L50

L51

L52

L53

L54

L55

L56

L42

L43

L44

L45

L46

L47

L48

L30

L31

L32

L33

L34

L35

L36

L37

L38

L39

L40

L41 pull rod lever spacer (2) brake hanger (6) brake block left (3) brake block right (3) brake hanger bracket inner left (3) brake hanger bracket inner right (3) pull rod left pull rod right pull rod overlay inner front and centre (4) pull rod rear overlay rear inner (2) pull rod rear overlay outer (2) pull rod end (2) brake hanger bracket outer left (3) brake hanger bracket outer right (3) buffer beam bracket front left buffer beam bracket front left upright front angle strip (2) buffer beam bracket front right buffer beam bracket front right upright buffer beam bracket rear left buffer beam bracket rear upright (2) rear angle strip (2) buffer beam bracket rear right coal bunker rails jig coal bunker rails with dropped section coal bunker rails with gapped section coal bunker rails upright (2)

3 mm washers full thickness

3 mm washers half thickness

September 2016

Other Components

Brass axleboxes (6)

Axlebox springs (6)

0.9 mm nickel silver wire

1.0 mm brass wire

0.7 mm brass wire

Diagram 1

0.6 mm brass wire

0.5 mm brass wire

1.0 mm brass tube

1.2 mm brass tube

Bushes for Bachmann rods (6)

10 BA cheese head screws (2)

10 BA nuts (2)

4 mm x 0.4 mm plastic strip

4 mm x 0.25 mm plastic strip

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