Brassmasters LNER V2 2-6-2 Instructions Manual

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Brassmasters www.brassmasters.co.uk

Scale Models

LONDON & NORTH EASTERN RAILWAY

V2 2-6-2

LOCOMOTIVE KIT

Designed by Martin Finney

4MM SCALE

OO - EM - P4

INSTRUCTIONS

AND PROTOTYPE NOTES

PO Box 1137 Sutton Coldfield B76 1FU

SECTION 1: BRIEF HISTORICAL DETAILS

In 1936, Gresley introduced what was for many his finest design, the V2 class 2-6-2 tender engines. Popularly known as the

‘Green Arrows’, the V2 class was originally intended for mixed traffic duties, especially the fast, brake–fitted, long distance, goods and perishables trains. They quickly proved little inferior to the Pacifics on express passenger trains, and were competent to tackle all except the streamlined schedules.

A total of 184 engines were built between 1936 and 1944 as follows:

Original Nos. Built at To traffic

Position of

Worksplates

Cab

Original type of 4200 gallon

Group Standard tender

Low front – flush side 4771

4772-75

4776-4790,

4791-4803

4804-14

4815-42

4843-52

4853-88

4889-98

3655-64

4899, 3641-54

3665-74

3675-95

Doncaster E.O.339

Darlington

Doncaster E.O.346

Darlington

Doncaster E.O.356

Darlington

6/1936-11/1936

9/1937-7/1938

8/1938-12/1938

2/1939-9/1939

4/1939-10/1940

10/1939-8/1940

8/1941-12/1941

6/1941-3/1942

1/1942-7/1942

8/1942-12/1942

1/1943-7/1944

Smokebox

Cab

Smokebox

Cab

Smokebox

Cab

Smokebox

Cab

Low front – flush side

High front – flush side

Low front – flared top

High front – flush side

For a detailed history of this class, Part 6C of Locomotives of the L.N.E.R. published by the R.C.T.S. is essential reading.

Other valuable sources of information and photographs are:

Yeadon's Register of L.N.E.R. Locomotives - Volume Four - Irwell Press

Isinglass Drawings. Drg. No. 303.

Locomotives Illustrated 9 - Ian Allan

East Coast Pacifics at work - P.N.Townend - Ian Allan

Variations/Modifications incorporated into the kit

Valve guides: Nos. 4771-75 were fitted with a different design of front valve guide to the rest of the class.

Fall plate: The original arrangement was for a fixed extension to the cab platform to suit the fall plate, which was hinged on the tender front plate. Starting with No. 4889 (built 8/1941) the fall plate was transferred to the cab platform and a wooden platform was provided at the front of the tender for the fall plate to rest on. The existing engines were brought into line as they passed through shops.

Cylinder wrappers: A circular access cover in the cylinder wrapper was fitted to all but the earliest engines.

Pony Truck: The engines were built with pony trucks incorporating Gresley’s patent double swing link suspension. Starting with No. 884 (4855) in December 1946 the pony truck was replaced with a new design using spring side control. The whole class was fitted with new pony trucks by April 1952.

Frame guard irons: The new pony trucks were longer necessitating the removal of the frame guard irons and the clipping of the cylinder drain cock pipes to the front steps.

Lamp iron - smoke box door: two different types.

New cylinders and outside steam pipes: Between May 1956 & March 1962, 71 engines had the original monoblock cylinder casting replaced with three separate cylinders and outside steam pipes.

Chimney: original type and double chimney with Kylchap cowls fitted to 60858/62/80/81, 60902/03 between October 1960 and November 1961.

TENDERS

As can be seen from the table the locomotives were fitted with three types of Group Standard 4200 gallon tender as follows:

Low front – flush side: New tenders of riveted construction with the join of the coping plate clearly visible.

Low front – flared top: Second hand tenders with stepped out coping plates.

High front – flush side: New tenders of riveted construction with the join of the coping plate clearly visible.

Tender changes were not uncommon so a dated photograph is needed to show the type of tender at a given time.

SECTION 2: CHASSIS DETAILS

Note that many of the components for both chassis and body are handed left/right and care must be taken to ensure the correct component is used. I have not always identified left/right components separately but with care and common sense no problems should arise.

Before construction can commence you have to decide which chassis you are going to construct. The options are:



Gauge 00, EM or P4.



Suspension Rigid, sprung, compensated.



Pickups

No pick-up material is provided. The options are:



Scrapers attached to printed circuit board fixed between the frames.



Plunger - drill out the 3 holes marked P on each side and fit according to the manufacturer’s instructions.



The 'American' system with the wheels on the loco shorted out on one side and the tender on the other. I have produced some etched shorting strips, as an additional item, for this purpose. The drawbar between the loco and tender can be used to carry the current.

SECTION 3: FRAMES

Having decided which chassis to construct you can now start construction by preparing the frames (parts F1 & F2). If you are fitting the later spring pony truck then using the etched lines as a guide, reshape the front frame cut outs as shown in Fig. 2.

Then emboss, using photographs as a guide, the appropriate rivets.

For a rigid chassis open out the main axle holes to accept 1/8" top hat bearings (not provided) and solder them in place. If you are going to fit sprung horn blocks, you should remove the axle holes by cutting up the half-etched lines, leaving a standard 6mm wide slot and then follow the manufacturers’ instructions.

To construct the kit as designed with a compensated chassis. Remove the axle holes as described above. Carefully widen the slot in the hornblocks (part 9) until the Flexichas bearings are a good fit. I find a significant variation in the bearings and once

I have fitted a hornblock to a bearing I mark the bearing and hornblock so that they can be later assembled together. A good fit between hornblock and bearing is essential if the chassis is to run well.

Drill out holes C (1/16") for the compensation beams and holes B (0.45mm) for brake hanger pivots. Solder the rear hornblocks to the inside of the frames aligning them with the half-etched line and with the bottom of the frames. Modify the

Flexichas bearings on the centre and rear axles as shown in Fig.4. Fold up the brackets for mounting the sandpipes for the centre coupled wheels, as shown in Fig 3.

SECTION 4: FRAME STAYS AND ASSEMBLING THE CHASSIS

Remove parts F4, F5, F6, F7 & F8 to suit your chosen gauge. Open out the holes for the front compensation beam in part F7 to 1/16". Alter the shape of parts F4 & F8 as shown in Fig.3. Fold up parts F4, F7 & F8 making sure the etched fold line is on the inside and that each bend is at a right angle.

Check that all tabs on the stays fit properly in their corresponding chassis slots so that the rest of the stay is hard up against the inside of the frames. Tap the 10 BA holes in parts F7 & F8.

Now assemble the frames and stays. Start by tack soldering part F7 to both sides. Check that everything is square and that the stays are hard against the frames. Put an axle (or better a longer piece of 1/8" rod) through the rear bearings and place the chassis on a piece of graph paper to check that the axle is square to the frames. If all is well solder the remaining stays to the frames checking constantly that the chassis is square and the frames are straight and checking that the rear of part F4 will be vertical. Stay F6 is not soldered in place until the angled plate and splashers have been attached.

For the original pony truck attach the pony truck wheel splashers (part F11), locating them in the frame cut outs, and the guard irons (part F3).

SECTION 5: COUPLING RODS

The coupling rods are now made so that they can be used as a jig to align the remaining hornblocks accurately. First, drill out all the crankpin holes to a convenient size which is well undersize for the crankpins. Drill out the fork joint holes 1.0mm so that the 1.0mm nickel silver wire is a tight fit. Remove all burrs caused by the drilling. Now drill a hole, with the drill used for the crankpin holes, in a small block of wood and leave the drill in the wood with its shank projecting. This projecting shank is used as a mandrel to accurately align the laminations of each rod.

Place the laminates over the mandrel, and using plenty of solder and flux solder the two laminates together. You will now have rods with the crankpin and fork joint holes aligned. Carefully file the edges so that the 'laminated' effect is lost and the rods appear to be made from one piece of metal. The crankpin holes now need carefully opening out until they just fit, with no free play, the ends of the hornblock alignment jigs (available from London Road Models or Markits).

The fork joints are now pinned using the 1.0mm nickel silver wire. Retain the pins, which should be a tight fit, by lightly soldering on the inner face of the rods. The correctly assembled rods should now have a completely flush inner face.

SECTION 6: FITTING THE FLEXICHAS HORNBLOCKS

Prepare the remaining bearings and hornblocks as described in section 3 and slide them over the hornblock alignment jigs with the springs between the bearings. Carefully compress the springs and clip the hornblocks between the frames and place the prepared coupling rods over the ends of the jigs. Make sure the hornblocks are square to the chassis and that their bottom edge aligns with the lower edge of the frames and then solder them in place.

SECTION 7: FITTING THE COMPENSATION BEAMS

Solder a piece of 1/32" steel wire through the holes in part F7 – see Fig.3. For the rear beams cut a piece of 1/16" brass rod so that it fits through the holes C and is flush with the outside face of the chassis frames. Cut two equal pieces of 3/32" tube which together fit between the frames and solder the rear beams (part F14) to them close to one end. Temporarily fit the beams.

Temporarily fit all the wheels and axles and confirm that the compensation works properly and check that the chassis is sitting level. The height of the top of the frames above the rails, over the rear compensation beam should be 23.4mm and over the front compensation beam 25.9mm. Retain the beam pivot by carefully soldering one end to the frame.

SECTION 8: REAR FRAMES & RADIAL TRUCK

Fold in the radial truck hornguides on part F25 (Fig.7). Now make all the bends on part F25 - all 90o and with fold lines inside

- then solder in place on the rear of part F4 ensuring that the rear frame will be level. Emboss the rivets on the outer frames

(part F26) and form to fit. Fold up part F27 and locate between the rear frames. Check all is fitting correctly before soldering

the rear frames in place. Detail the rear frames as shown in Fig.7.

Bend part F36 to shape and solder around part F35 to make the lower firebox. Add the washout plugs at the corners from

0.5mm square wire and the blowdown tap (part BR6), before soldering in place on top of part F25. Add part F37 as shown in

Fig.7.

Fold up the spring wire bracket and side play stops on part F33. Fold up part F34 and attach part F33 and check for free, but not sloppy, movement in the hornguides. Solder the small top hat bearings in place and fit the radial truck wheels using the washers (part F40) to eliminate any side play. Bend up the spring wire to give some downward pressure and solder in place through the bracket on part F25 and the hole in part F4. The radial truck is retained with lengths of 0.5mm square wire soldered across the bottom of each horn guide.

SECTION 9: PONY TRUCK

Emboss all the frame rivets as shown in Fig.10. Solder guard irons (part P3) in place on the outside of the frames. Fold up part P6 or part P10 and solder the appropriate stays in place as shown in Fig. 10. For the original pony truck form the dust shields (part P8) to shape and solder in place. Solder parts P1 and P2 together to make the radius arm as shown in Fig. 10.

Solder the radius arm in place. Attach part WM3 and ream through the axle holes 2mm.

Using appropriate washers (part P4) fit the wheels so that there is a minimum of side play. Form the guard irons to shape.

Bend up the spring wire (0.3mm phosphor bronze) to give some downward pressure and solder in place through the holes in part P5. The pony truck is retained with a 10 BA screw.

SECTION 10: COMPLETING THE CHASSIS MECHANICALLY

Emboss the rivets in parts F16 & F17. Now fold these components to the correct angle using the jig (part F42) as a guide. Pass part F6 (short side on the left) through the slots in parts F16 and locate all three components on the frames. Check that all is correctly located, before soldering in place. Similarly solder parts F17 in place. Check the angle of parts F16 & F17 again using the jig.

Chamfer the curved edges of the splasher tops, parts F18 & F19, and curve to shape over a suitable rod. Now solder them in place over the top of the frames and against the angle plate. Now trim the excess material from the outer edges of the angled plate and round off the rear corner as shown in Fig.3. Solder part F15 to the lower edges of part F6 and trim to length. Solder in place parts F12 and the brake hanger pivots from 0.45mm wire (Fig.3).

In P4, the clearance between the leading crankpin and the slidebar is very limited. Potential problems here can be tackled by:



Using a recessed crankpin nut as sold by Ultrascale



Ensuring side play on the leading axle is kept to an absolute minimum



Omitting one lamination of the slidebars (LEFT 2 & RIGHT 2).

Fit the crankpins to the wheels making sure the screw heads do not foul, countersinking them if necessary. Attach the balance weights to the wheels as in Fig. 19. Assemble the wheel sets, bearings and motor/gearbox selecting 1/8" axle washers of appropriate thickness to control side play.

The cranks on the right hand side should lead the left by 120°. I find the easiest way to achieve this consistently on all three axles is by looking through the wheels with a magnifier against a strong light and lining up corresponding spokes. The wheels have 18 spokes which gives 20° between each spoke. 20° x 6 = 120°. So you simply adjust the wheel sets until the right hand side is 6 spokes ahead of the left. This method is surprisingly accurate and, for me at least, gives by far the best results.

Now connect the motor to your pick-ups and test run.

SECTION 11: CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

Check all the holes in the cylinders (part M1) against the appropriate components and open up the holes if necessary. Reduce the width of the inside cylinder faces to the etched lines provided as appropriate, so that the cylinders are a good fit it the slots in the frames. Fold up the cylinders making sure they are square and fold out the 2-to-1 arm bracket.

Solder the valve crosshead guides (parts BR1 or BR3 - front & BR2 - rear) in place aligning them with a piece of 0.8mm wire passed through the valve rod holes. File away the back of the rear guides as shown in Fig.9.

Construct the slidebars as shown in Fig. 16. Use plenty of solder whilst applying pressure to keep the laminations together.

Clean off the front and rear faces and remove the rear section. The crosshead slot will need cleaning out so that the crosshead is a good fit. This can be done with a thin file - haven't gone one? - then use a piece of emery paper over a scrap piece of brass etch. The appearance of the slidebars is much improved by carefully filing the top smooth.

Insert the slidebars in the cylinders and tack soldered in place. After checking all is square and parallel they are permanently attached. Attach the piston rod glands (part NS2) and check that the crosshead slides properly. Attach the front covers (parts

NS3) and fit the relief valves (parts BR5). Add part M10 as shown in Fig. 9.

Solder together the connecting rod laminations (part M19 & M20) and add the rod boss laminations (part M21) to the big end back and front. Drill the big end to fit the crankpins and the small end 1.0mm.

Solder the crosshead arm (part M39) to a piece of 1.0mm wire as a pin. Fit the connecting rod to the crosshead, ensuring the crosshead arm is vertical, carefully solder the pin from the rear and file flush. Fit the connecting rods with a suitable washer

(part M50) between the coupling rods and connecting rods and check the clearance of the slidebar and crankpin nut. You will possibly have to reduce the thickness of the nut. The connecting rod passes between the two lower slide bars and it will be necessary to widen the gap between them to give clearance for the connecting rod to pass through.

SECTION 12: VALVE GEAR

All the valve gear joints, with the exception of the eccentric arm/eccentric rod, are made with wire pins soldered on the inside. This clearly runs the risk of soldering the joint solid. To minimise this:

(i) ensure the pin is a tight fit in the hole.

(ii)

(iii) use oil or a proprietary solder mask. use plenty of flux, a small amount of solder, and be quick!

Modify the motion bracket (part M11) to suit your frame spacing as shown in Fig. 9 and fold it up, with all fold lines on the inside. Curve the lower ends of the motion bracket over a suitable rod to fit part M13. Solder part M13 in place in the groove in part M11. Solder parts M12 in the grooves in parts M11 & M13 ensuring that the holes for the radius link pivot align horizontally and vertically. Solder short pieces of 1.0mm wire to the brackets for the radius link pivots.

Drill out the holes in the radius link laminations (parts M26 & M27) to take the 0.3mm wire pins, which align the laminations and represent the bolt heads. Solder the inner laminations together with 4 lengths of 0.3mm wire (Fig.11). Check that the slot in the inner laminations is a sliding fit with the 0.7mm wire.

Place the radius rod (part M33) and radius rod front lamination (part M34) over the radius link, align with a piece of 0.7mm wire, and solder the lamination to the rod. Solder the 0.7mm wire pin in place and clean off flush. The radius rod should now move smoothly in the link. Add the fork joint (part M35) to the front of the radius rod. Open out the holes in the radius link outer lamination (part M26) so that they are a good fit on the pivot wires on the radius link bracket. Solder the outer laminations in place (N.B. they are not symmetrical – see Fig.11) and cut off the 0.3mm wire to represent the bolt heads.

Gently spring the links in place in the brackets (insert washers part M14 as shown in Fig.9) and check that the links pivot freely and are vertical. Now remove the links and attach the reversing cranks (parts M28 & M29) using 0.7mm wire so that they slide in the slots in the radius rods.

Attach the cylinders and motion bracket to the chassis with 10 BA screws. Check all alignments before soldering the motion

bracket to the slide bars.

Form the joggle in the combination levers (part M36) with the fold lines inside reinforcing the bends with solder. Assemble the rear valve rods (part M40) and union link (parts M37 & M38). Pin together the combination lever, union link and valve rod. Thread the radius rods through the hole in the motion bracket and pin to the combination levers. Carefully refit the expansion links and add the reversing cross shaft from 1.0mm wire as shown in Fig.9.

Add the fork joint (part M24) to the eccentric rod (part M23). Reduce the diameter and thickness of the rivet heads so that they will fit in the recess in the back of part M25. Tap the crankpin hole in the eccentric crank (part M22) 14 BA. Oil the tap and use it to screw the eccentric arm and a crankpin nut together as shown in Fig.13. Now solder the nut to the arm. Remove the tap and file off flange of the nut. This gives an arm with a substantial thread that can be tightened on the crankpin. Rivet the radius rod to the arm and add part M25.

Fit the arms on the crankpin and tighten so that the offset of the end of the arm is 2.5mm (see Fig.27). You may need to file some more off the nut so that it tightens in the correct position. Now pin the remaining two joints between the union link and crosshead arm and between the radius link and eccentric rod. Check that the motion works smoothly. By rotating the cross shaft you should now be able to reverse the motion!

Assemble the 2-to-1 arm (parts M42 & M43) and the front valve rods (part M41) as shown in Fig.14. Pin the left and middle valve rods, 2-to-1 arm and equal arm (part M45) together. Solder a 1.0mm wire pin in place in the bracket attached to the cylinders. Make the pin just long enough so that the 2-to-1 arm can be sprung in place over the washer (part M44). Adjust the valve rods to length so that they do not interfere with the rear valve rods and check for free movement. Fit the right side valve rod and pin to the 2-to-1 arm. Now link the valve rods together with hoops of 0.45mm wire (see Fig.9) checking that you have equal backward and forward movement on the conjugated valve gear arms.

This now means that the valve gear is permanently fixed to the cylinders but the complete unit can be removed by unscrewing the eccentric arms, cylinder screws and the screw attaching the motion bracket.

To ensure a good fit with the valence edge the cylinder wrappers (part M2 or M3) are best fitted after the upper works are complete.

SECTION 13: FINAL CHASSIS DETAILING

Drill the holes in part F9 1.5mm to fit part WM4. Fold up part F9 (Fig. 6) inserting part WM4 at the same time. Attach parts

F10 and solder the complete assembly to the frames.

Attach the drain cock castings (part BR4) to part F8. Emboss the rivet on the drain cock linkage (part M4) and fold over the end bracket at the front as shown in Fig.3, before soldering in place together with a length of 0.45mm wire to represent the operating rod. Add part M5. Make the drainpipes from the 0.4mm copper wire provided, adding the brackets (parts M6 &

M7) as shown in Fig. 3. For the original pony truck the joggle in the pipes to clear the wheels is immediately behind the guard iron.

The axles are now retained by the springs, formed from a triple lamination of parts F20, F21 & F22. The front springs will need modifying to clear part F7. Assemble the brake hangers (parts B3 & B4) first embossing the rivet on each lamination.

Attach the hangers to the pivot wires. Emboss the bolts in parts B1 & B2 and solder the cross shaft overlays to the top of part

B1. Fix this assembly to the brake hangers. Complete the brake gear by fitting the front and rear cross shafts and pull rods as shown in Fig.15.

Complete the chassis detailing by fitting sand pipes (0.45mm wire) as shown in Fig. 27.

SECTION 14: FOOTPLATE

Emboss the rivets on the valences and drag beam (part U1). Fold up the assembly – note there are two fold lines below the drag beam and the fold should be made on the lower one. Curve the valence behind the drag beam as shown in Fig. 20.

Emboss the rivets on part U7 and add part U9. Fold up part U7 and solder in place behind the bufferbeam and between the valences so that it is flush with their upper edges. Decide on the correct position of the lubricators (parts BR14 & BR15) and drill out the appropriate locating holes in the footplate.

Carefully form the bends in the footplate by bending over a rod of suitable size. Now solder the footplate in place with the valences in the half-etched recess along each side and part U7 in the recess under the front edge. Add part U2 to the rear drag beam and a 10 BA nut over the middle hole at the rear and over the hole at the front. This now gives a sturdy platform upon which to construct the upper works. The excess metal is not broken away until the boiler is fixed to the footplate.

Curve the outer edges of part U8 and locate in place over the lamp irons (See Fig.24). Locate the frame extensions (part U6) and then solder up all the joints at the front end. Add the inner angle using parts U12, U13, U14, U15, U16 & U17 as shown in Fig.23.

Fit the smokebox saddle casting (part WM10) to the footplate aligning it with the etched guide lines. Solder parts U18 & U19 or parts U23 to the footplate next to the saddle. For the original cylinder arrangement fix parts U20 & U21 together with parts WM11 & WM12 in place. The outside steam pipes shown in Fig.24 are best left off until the boiler is fitted.

The front end detail can now be completed as shown in Figs. 22 & 24.

SECTION 15: FIREBOX

The boiler/firebox/cab assemblies are doweled together, using 0.8mm wire, for accurate location. An alternative to the use of wire is 12 or 14 BA screws which are not provided.

Fold up the cab floor support (part C1) and use this as a jig to accurately make the bend in part U28. Pin together, using

0.45mm wire pins, parts U29, U30 & U31 as shown in Fig.26. Fold this assembly along the fold lines and locate together with parts U28 and U32 to make the firebox cage. Before soldering together check that the 15.1mm dimension (see Fig.26) is correct and adjust as necessary. Accuracy is very important at this stage if the firebox is to fit.

Clean out the slot for the sanding and reversing rods and round the sloping front edge. The edge of rear former must now be chamfered as shown in Fig.26. Check that the dimensions are correct.

Solder parts U34 & U35 in place on the firebox wrapper (part U33) before forming the wrapper to shape. Centre the wrapper on the formers by using the vee at the rear (accuracy here is essential) before tack soldering the wrapper in place. Note that the lower edges at the rear will overhang the former at this stage so that when they are filed flush with the face of the former they will fit against the cab front. When completely happy with the location of the former, solder it in place.

Fix parts U36 in place and the upper washout doors (parts U37). Solder handrail knobs in place and add the lower handrail from 0.45mm wire.

SECTION 16: BOILER & SMOKEBOX

Form the coned boiler (part U40) by rolling and check for fit around the formers (parts U38 & U39). Bend the boiler band joining brackets on part U41 and fit through the small slots from inside the boiler. If the fit is good and the formers fit then solder the wrapper ends together with part U41. Solder the formers in place so that they are almost flush with the ends with the wrapper aligned accurately with the cut out in the rear former. Check the boiler/firebox fit. Represent the bolts in the joining brackets using 0.3mm wire and solder the handrail knobs in place.

Roll the smokebox/parallel boiler wrapper (part U45) and check the fit on the formers (parts U42 & U43). Solder the wrapper ends together using part U46 and solder in the formers flush with the back and front with the line on part U43 aligned with the wrapper join. Attach part U44 to the front of the smokebox aligning the handrail holes. Add the remaining handrail knobs.

Tap the hole in part U39 10 BA, so that the smokebox and boiler can be screwed together. Now check the fit of the boiler/smokebox to the firebox and saddle. Form the ejector exhaust pipe from 1.0mm wire and attach using parts U50 through the slots in the boiler together with part BR18. Leave it over length as it passes through the cab front the rear. Add the boiler handrails from 0.45mm wire.

SECTION 17: CAB

Solder the cab floor (part C2) to the cab floor support (part C1). Add the washout plugs from 0.5mm square wire.

Now form the bend between the cab sides and the cab front (part C5). To do this, first scribe, with a sharp point, the fold lines (make them quite deep) on the inside. The lines run from the slots in the projections at the top and bottom. File off the marking projections when satisfied and make the folds between the sides and front to match the cab floor. Solder the spectacle window frames (part C6) in place on the inside. Solder the inner cab window layer (part C10) in place aligning the small holes for the cab side windscreens (part C14). Solder the sliding window frame (part C11) over part C10 before breaking

off the rear piece along the etched line. The outer window layer (part C12) which retains the sliding window (part C13) cannot be fixed until painting and glazing are complete.

Solder part C7 inside the rear edge of the cab sides and solder the cab handrails in place. Assemble the cab seats and fix in place. Form the bend in the cab front and solder the cab sides and cab front to the cab floor. Decide on which fall plate you require and fit as shown in Fig.25. The tabs on the hinged fall plate (part C3) are folded down and fit in the slots in the cab floor to give a hinge effect. Form part C8 to shape and solder in place in the slots in the cab front. Solder the safety valves

(part BR11) in place in the holes in part C8.

Anneal the hinges on the cab doors (part C9), by heating in a flame and bend to shape around a 0.45mm piece of wire. The hinge pins have been made too long so that they can be bent over to stop the doors falling off!

Fold up the back, front and central roof rib of part C15, to give a solid base upon which to build the removable cab roof. Roll the cab roof, interior detail, and ventilator parts to shape. Solder part C17 in place, on the inside of the roof, as shown in

Fig.22, before soldering the roof in place on the former assembly. Complete by adding the ventilator parts and rain strips

(part C18). Now using a Carborundum disc in a mini-drill cut through the unwanted part of the former and snap off the redundant parts along the etched lines. The edges of the formers will now need cleaning up.

SECTION 18: FINAL ASSEMBLY AND DETAILING

Now permanently attach the cab/firebox/boiler/smokebox to the footplate by fixing the smokebox to the saddle and bolting the footplate to the cab. It may be possible to arrange a non-permanent fixing to the saddle to make painting the model easier but care will be needed in handling the footplate once the redundant material is removed. Remove this unwanted material in the same way as for the cab roof.

Solder the mechanical lubricators (parts BR16) in position as shown in Fig. 23. Thread parts M46 & M47 through the footplate holes and locate on the lubricator spindles, but do not solder in place yet. Fold over the crank on part M48, with the fold line on the outside before soldering in place in the etched recesses under the footplate. Link parts M46, M47 & M48 with a piece of 0.45mm wire. Add parts M30, M31 & M32 as shown in Fig. 23.

Attach all the remaining parts using the drawings and photographs as a guide to position.

Using the drawing of the cab interior the back plate can be assembled and the cab interior detailed. Use the 0.7mm copper wire for the pipes.

If you have any problem with the kit or any criticisms or suggestions please contact Brassmasters.

Best wishes

Martin Finney March 2001

ETCHED COMPONENTS

FRAMES

F1. Frame - left

F2. Frame - right

F3. Guard iron - (2)

F4. Stay - rear - firebox bracket - 3 widths

F5. Stay - middle - horizontal - 3 widths

F6. Stay - middle - reach rod bracket - 3 widths

F7. Stay - front - compensation beam mounting - 3 widths

F8. Stay - front - cylinder mounting - 3 widths

F9. Stay - behind buffer beam

F10. Front step - upper - (2)

F11. Pony truck wheel - splasher - (2)

F12. Brake hanger pivot overlay - (4)

F13. Hornblock - (6)

F14. Compensation beam - (2)

F15. Reach rod bracket rib - (2)

F16. Reach rod bracket frame overlay/angled plate - (2)

F17. Motion bracket frame overlay/angled plate - (2)

F18. Splasher top - rear - (2)

F19. Splasher top - centre - (2)

F20. Spring - centre lamination - (6)

F21. Spring - outer lamination - (6)

F22. Spring - inner lamination - (6)

F23. Balance weight - leading/trailing axle -(4)

F24. Balance weight - centre axle - (2)

F25. Rear frames - inner

F26. Rear frame - outer - (2)

F27. Rear stay - body fixing

F28. Rear frame - drag beam bracket overlay - (2)

F29. Rear frame - footplate bracket overlay - (4)

F30. Rear steps - upper - (2)

F31. Rear steps - lower - (2)

F32. Rear spring retaining bracket - (4)

F33. Radial truck - top plate

F34. Radial truck - bottom & ends

F35. Fire box below footplate - former

F36. Fire box below footplate - wrapper

F37. Damper operating rod - (2)

F38. Draw bar - 2 lengths

F39. Washer - coupled wheel axle

F40. Washer - radial truck axle

F41. Washer - drawbar pivot screw

F42. Angled plate setting jig

BRAKE GEAR

B1. Brake pull rods/cross shafts overlay - left

B2. Brake cross shaft overlay - (3)

B3. Brake hanger/shoe lamination - rear - (4)

B4. Brake hanger/shoe lamination - middle/front - (8)

B5. Brake cylinder pull rod - (2)

B6. Brake cylinder pull rod front lamination - (2)

MOTION

M1. Cylinders

M2. Cylinder wrapper - with cover plate - (2)

M3. Cylinder wrapper - without cover plate - (2)

M4. Drain cock linkage - (2)

M5. Drain cock linkage - rear cock bracket - (2)

M6. Drain pipe bracket - guard iron - (2)

M7. Drain pipe bracket - around pipes - (4)

M8. Slide bar lamination - (12)

M9. Slide bar - rear packing piece - (2)

M10. Slide bar - front flange plate - (4)

M11. Motion bracket

M12. Motion bracket inner web - (2)

M13. Motion bracket transverse web - (2)

M14. Radius link bracket - washer - (4)

M15. Coupling rod - front - inner

M16. Coupling rod - front - outer lamination - (2)

M17. Coupling rod - rear - inner lamination -(2)

M18. Coupling rod - rear - outer lamination -(2)

M19. Connecting rod - inner lamination - (2)

M20. Connecting rod - outer lamination - (2)

M21. Connecting rod boss lamination - (4)

M22. Eccentric crank - (2)

M23. Eccentric rod - (2)

M24. Eccentric rod - fork joint - (2)

M25. Eccentric rod bearing overlay - (2)

M26. Radius link outer lamination - (4)

M27. Radius link inner lamination - (4)

M28. Reversing crank lamination - reach rod side - (2)

M29. Reversing crank lamination - not reach rod side - (2)

M30. Reach rod/sanding rod

M31. Reach rod joint - overlay

M32. Sanding rod crank

M33. Radius rod - (2)

M34. Radius rod - front lamination - (2)

M35. Radius rod - fork joint - (2)

M36. Combination lever - (2)

M37. Union link - inner lamination - (2)

M38. Union link - outer lamination - (2)

M39. Crosshead arm - (2)

M40. Valve connecting link lamination - rear - (4)

M41. Valve connecting link lamination - front - (6)

M42. 2 to 1 arm

M43. 2 to 1 arm - lamination - (2)

M44. 2 to 1 arm packing washer

M45. Equal arm

M46. Mechanical lubricator arm - outer

M47. Mechanical lubricator arm - inner

M48. Mechanical lubricator linkage

M49. Mechanical lubricator handwheel - (2)

M50. Crankpin washer - (4)

ETCHED COMPONENTS (continued)

PONY TRUCK

P1. Radius arm

P2. Radius arm flange - (2)

P3. Guard iron - (2)

P4. Washer - axle

P5. Washer - pivot screw - (3)

Swing link side control

P6. Side frames/rear stay

P7. Front stay

P8. Axlebox dust shield - (2)

P9. Front stretcher

Spring side control

P10. Side frames/rear stay

P11. Front stay

UPPERWORKS

U1. Valence/bufferbeam/dragbeam assembly

U2. Dragbeam overlay

U3. Footplate

U4. Footplate access door hinge - large - (6)

U5. Footplate access door hinge - small - (4)

U6. Front frame extension - (2)

U7. Front drop plate

U8. Footplate overlay - front drop plate

U9. Front end cover plate

U10. Boiler support lamination - (2)

U11. Boiler support flange

U12. Footplate inner angle - horizontal section - right

U13. Footplate inner angle - vertical section - right

U14. Footplate inner angle - horizontal section - left - rear

U15. Footplate inner angle - horizontal section - left - front

U16. Footplate inner angle - vertical section - left - rear

U17. Footplate inner angle - vertical section - left - front

U18. Smokebox saddle - original - horizontal overlay - left

U19. Smokebox saddle - original - horizontal overlay - right

U20. Smokebox saddle - original - vertical

U21. Smokebox saddle - original - vertical overlay - right

U22. Smokebox saddle - original - strengthening web

U23. Smokebox saddle - later - horizontal overlay - (2)

U24. Sandbox filler packing piece - (4)

U25. Bufferbeam coupling plate

U37. Firebox washout door cover - (9)

U38. Coned boiler rear former

U39. Coned boiler front former

U40. Coned boiler wrapper

U41. Coned boiler joining strip

U42. Parallel boiler rear former

U43. Smokebox front former

U44. Smokebox front overlay

U45. Smokebox/parallel boiler wrapper strip

U46. Smokebox/parallel boiler joining

U47. Anti-vacuum valve plate

U48. Lamp iron - smokebox - early type

U49. Lamp iron - smokebox - later type

U50. Ejector exhaust pipe bracket - (5)

U51. Works plate - four different locomotives

CAB

C1. Cab floor support

C2. Cab floor

C3. Fall plate - hinged

C4. Fall plate - fixed

C5. Cab front/Cab sides

C6. Cab spectacle window frame - (2)

C7. Cab side rear inner beading - (2)

C8. Firebox - inside cab

C9. Cab door - (2)

C10. Cab window - inner layer - (2)

C11. Cab window - middle layer - (2)

C12. Cab window - outer layer - (2)

C13. Cab window - sliding frame - (2)

C14. Cab side windscreen frame - (2)

C15. Cab roof former assembly

C16. Cab roof

C17. Cab roof interior detail

C18. Cab roof rainstrip - (2)

C19. Central cab roof ventilator - front section

C20. Central cab roof ventilator - rear section

C21. Central cab roof ventilator - shutters - two positions

C22. Central cab roof ventilator - safety valve plate

C23. Firehole door and fire screens

C24. Regulator lever - (2)

U26. Coupling hook

U27. Screw coupling

U28. Firebox rear former

U29. Firebox front former

C25. Injector handwheel - (2)

C26. Cab seat bracket - (2)

C27. Backplate shelf

C28. Cut off indicator

U30. Firebox front former lower extension -(2) C29. Steam distribution box handwheel - large - (2)

U31. Firebox front former lower extension - packing piece - (2) C30. Steam distribution box handwheel - small - (2)

U32. Firebox former spacer C31. Vacuum ejector handle

U33. Firebox wrapper

U34. Firebox mudhole doors - upper - (2)

U35. Firebox mudhole door - lower - (2)

U36. Firebox mudhole door clamp - (6)

C32. Bracket - vacuum/steam chest pressure gauges

C33. Bracket - boiler pressure gauge

C34. Bracket - heater gauge

C35. Cab gauges - (4)

WHITEMETAL CASTINGS

WM1. Cartazzi axlebox/spring - left

WM2. Cartazzi axlebox/spring - right

WM3. Pony truck axlebox/springs - (2)

WM4. Buffer spring gaiter - (2)

WM5. Smokebox door

WM6. Banjo dome

WM7. Single chimney

WM8. Double Chimney

WM9. Smokebox superheater cover - (2)

WM10. Smokebox saddle

WM11. Steampipe casing - original cylinders - left

WM12. Steampipe casing - original cylinders - right

WM13. Outside steampipe - new cylinders - (2)

WM14. Backplate

WM15. Cab seat - (2)

WM16. Cab footplate platform - left

WM17. Cab footplate platform - right

NICKEL SILVER CASTINGS

NS1. Crosshead/piston rod - (2)

NS2. Piston rod gland - (2)

NS3. Cylinder front cover - (2)

NS4. Smokebox door knob

NS5. Smokebox door handles

NS6. Screw reverser

OTHER COMPONENTS

1/8" Flexichas bearing - (6)

2mm top hat bearing - (2)

10 BA C.H. screw – long - (3)

10 BA C.H. screw – short - (5)

10 BA nut - (4)

Valve gear rivet - (2)

Buffer housing, head, sleeve and springs - (2)

Handrail knob - (30)

Brass tube - 3/32" outside diameter - for compensation beams

Nickel silver wire - 1.0m - for coupling rod pins, crosshead pins, radius link pivots and 2-to-1 lever pivot

Nickel silver wire – 0.7mm – for Cartazzi axlebox ties and radius rods

Nickel silver wire - 0.55mm - for valve gear pins

Nickel silver wire - 0.45mm - for handrails

Components not provided

Wheels and crankpins (Ultrascale, Alan Gibson or Markits)

Driving wheel 6’ 2” - 18 spoke

Pony truck wheel 3' 2" diameter - 10 spoke

Trailing wheel 3' 8" diameter - 10 spoke

Portescap 1616 motor/gearbox (or equivalent)

Suitable pickups

Couplings, numberplates, paint and transfers

BRASS CASTINGS

BR1. Valve crosshead guide - front - (2)

BR2. Valve crosshead guide - rear - (2)

BR3. Valve crosshead guide - front - old type - (2)

BR4. Drain cock - (4)

BR5. Cylinder relief valve - (4)

BR6. Blowdown tap

BR7. Sandbox filler - (4)

BR8. Anti carboniser - (2)

BR9. Anti carboniser valve

BR10. Anti vacuum valve

BR11. Safety valve - (2)

BR12. Footplate step - (2)

BR13. Vacuum pipe

BR14. Lubricator - large

BR15. Lubricator - small

BR16. Mechanical lubricator - (2)

BR17. Whistle

BR18. Ejector exhaust pipe elbow

BR19. Mason reducing valve

BR20. Vacuum ejector

BR21. Injector valve - left

BR22. Injector valve - right

BR23. Steam distribution box

Brass wire – 1.0mm - for reversing cross shaft and vacuum ejector exhaust pipe

Brass wire – 1.2mm - for brake cross shafts

Brass wire - 0.8mm - for valve rods

Brass wire - 0.45mm - for brake hanger pivots and sandpipes

Brass wire - 0.3mm - for radius link bolts

Brass wire - 0.5mm square - for washout plugs

Brass wire - 1/16" - for compensation beam pivots and exhaust steam injector pipe

Phosphor bronze wire - 0.3mm – for pony truck and trailing truck springs

Copper wire - 0.2mm - for lubrication pipes

Copper wire - 0.4mm - for cylinder draincock pipes

Copper wire – 0.7mm - for injector overflow pipes and backplate pipes

Steel wire – 1/32” – for front compensation beam

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