Fork Service Manual
2006 Fork Service Manual
Rev NC
Table of Contents
Description
Page
Introduction
3
Front Suspension Terminology
4
Section 1 - Disassembly/Assembly Instructions – Damping Systems
A-B Kits
8 - 15
Section 2 - Disassembly/Assembly Instructions – Spring Systems
C Kits
15 - 25
Section 3 - Disassembly/Assembly Instructions - Castings
D-E Kits
27 - 32
Troubleshooting Chart
33
Technical Information – Oil Levels, Torque Specs, Ect.
34 - 35
Service Kit Charts
36 - 45
Contact Information
Answer Products Customer Service Department
28209 Ave. Stanford
Valencia, CA 91355
Toll Free:
Direct:
FAX:
E-mail:
Web site:
(800) 423-0273
(661) 257-4411
(661) 775-1798
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.answerproducts.com
INTRODUCTION
This manual is intended to guide the user through basic service of Manitou Empire front forks.
Service is supported by the identification of common parts and assemblies that have been
assembled into Service Kits. The purpose of this manual will be to describe conditions that may
drive the need for service and to provide installation instructions for the kits.
Due to the time-consuming nature of suspension fork service, at this time our primary focus is to
offer service kits that minimize the amount of downtime and labor involved.
Important information is highlighted in this manual by the following notations:
WARNING
Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to the
person inspecting or repairing the suspension fork or the user.
CAUTION
A CAUTION a caution indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage to
the product.
NOTE
A NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer
GENERAL WARNING: Suspension forks by design can contain preloaded springs, gases
and fluids under extreme pressure and warnings contained in this manual must be
observed to reduce the possibility of injury or possible death. Following these
instructions can help you reduce the risk of being injured. Any questions in regards to the
information in this manual should be directed to Answer Products Customer Service at
(661) 257-4411.
WARNING: Suspension forks uses preloaded spring(s) to provide compression spring
resistance. This system must be relieved of preload prior to servicing. Failure to relieve
air pressure could result in injury or possible death.
CAUTION: Suspension forks use precision machined aluminum and other soft alloy components.
Using correct tools for assembly is essential to prevent damage.
FRONT SUSPENSION TERMINOLOGY
Air Cap – Top cap that threads into top of air/spring leg (this is the left leg of the fork as you are
seated on the seat). Forks may be controlled with an air/spring or a coil spring. The air cap
contains the Schrader Valve, which is used to control the spring rate or SAG of air forks.
Air Spring – A mechanism that is used to control the SAG of an air fork.
Arch – A support that connects the two outer lower legs of the casting so as to keep them moving
in unison.
Black Nitrate Leg Coating – New coating for steel stanchion legs that reduces stiction.
Boss – The word used to describe an outer casting that has brake posts for V-brakes or
cantilever brakes.
Bottom Out Bumper – A rubber or elastomer device that absorbs the shock that occurs when a
suspension is compression to its limit.
Bushings – A cylindrical sleeve between a fork stanchion tube (inner leg) and a fork outer
casting (slider), which facilitates the sliding movement between these two parts.
Cartridge Damping – Provides better oil flow, bump sensitivity, and improved damping control in
long travel applications.
Click-It Remote – A handle-bar lever actuated system that controls the lock out function on front
and rear suspension products. It is activated by pressing the Red Lock button and unlocked by
pressing the Green Release Lever.
Coil Spring – A coiled piece of metal that acts as a spring to help suspend a fork.
Coil Spring Air Assist – A new feature for 2005 that utilizes a full length coil spring and allows
you to increase the spring rate of the fork by adding air as a booster to that coil spring.
Compression – The phase of the suspension operation in which the wheel travels up, or travels
closer to the frame. The suspension forks reaction to a bump in the trail.
Compression Damping – Restriction of the rate that the suspension compresses under load.
Convertible Travel – A system used to alter the travel of a suspension fork. It requires moving a
travel clip on the compression rod to a different position. This operation is accomplished by
disassembling the fork and physically moving the travel clip on the compression rod.
Crown Steerer Assembly – the stanchion legs (inner legs), the fork crown, and the steer tube
pressed together as one assembly. This assembly is then finished by adding all of the fork
internals and then outer casting (slider).
Damping – A function that modifies the rate of suspension compression or rebound.
Detent – An indentation that causes a rotating adjuster to stop at fixed increments.
Drop Out – The end of an outer casting (slider) where the wheel attaches.
Dust Boot – Usually a piece of rubber in the shape of a cylinder with baffles to allow it to
compress as the fork compresses through its travel. Its function is to help keep dirt and water
from getting into the inner legs of the fork.
E2 Air System – Lightweight alternative to coil springs for steel legged forks, elimates the need
for spring changes for various rider weights.
FRONT SUSPENSION TERMINOLOGY (CONT.)
FFD – Fluid Flow Damping. A Manitou patented low cost oil damping system. The compression
damping is non-adjustable and the rebound damping may be non-adjustable or adjustable
damping.
Fork Crown – The component that joins the stanchion tubes (inner legs) to the steer tube of the
fork.
Hydraulic Fork Oil – Oil used in suspension designs to provide damping. It has special
characteristics that determine how it reacts when exposed to compressed air, how it changes
viscosity when its temperature changes, and how it moves through valves.
Hydraulic Lock Out – a condition caused when the mixture of air and damping oil is out of
balance. It is caused when there is too little air space in a chamber, not allowing the fork to
compress through its travel.
IS2 Intergrated Stem System – intergrates top triple clamp with bar mount, eliminating the need
for a stem. Flip Flop mount allows for 45mm or 60mm stem measurements and spacers allow bar
height adjustments. Includes shims for both 31.8 and 25.4mm handlebars.
Infinite Travel System (IT) – A handle-bar mounted air travel adjust system that allows the rider
to change the fork travel (and ride height) without a spring rate change. The travel can be
changed from full compression to full rebound and at any place in between.
Intrinsic Damping– speed sensitive SPV based damping system for long travel applications.
Provides better sensitivity to small bumps and superior bottoming resistance.
Lock Out – a special function that restricts the compression of the fork from moving. It is
generally controlled by an external knob that is activated when a rider does not want the fork to
move, thus eliminating extra energy needed to overcome the bobbing forces of the fork.
MCU – (Micro-Cellular Urethane) Special urethane that is filled with tiny air cells that act like
springs when the elastomer is compressed.
No Boss - The word used to describe an outer casting that has no brake posts for V-brakes or
cantilever brakes. This casting is to be used for disk brakes only.
No Tools SPV Volume Adjust – A new system designed to work with SPV as a control of the
compression ramp up rate of the fork. It has a 4-position range of adjustments from linear to very
progressive, adjustment doesn’t require a socket.
No Tools Hex Lock Axle – Update of patented Hex Lock through axle provides simple and
effective wheel removal system without requiring tools. Features dual quick release to remove
pinch pressure and the axle is tighten and lossened with hand turned side tension bolt.
Oil Damping – A system that uses the resistance to oil flow through holes in a valve to provide a
means to alter the rate of suspension compression or rebound.
Oil Level – The level of damping oil needed for the optimal damping performance of a
suspension. It is measured as the air space distance between the top of the stanchion leg (inner
leg) and the height of the oil inside of the leg. The fork must be completely extended in order to
get an accurate measurement.
O-Ring – A soft, flexible neoprene or Buna rubber ring with a round cross-section, which is used
for sealing and retention.
FRONT SUSPENSION TERMINOLOGY (CONT.)
Oil Weight – A description of the relative viscosity of oil, such as hydraulic oil. Oil with low weight
numbers (5wt or 7wt) flows through the valving with less resistance than higher weight numbers
(10or 15 wt).
One Point Five Standard - 1.5 inch interface standard for frame head tubes, headset, cups,
stem, and steer tubes which allows for the lightest weight and strongest design in 170mm single
crown forks. This design greatly improves the control and steering precision of the fork. It is used
predominately on forks with longer travel and the intended use is for more hardcore, extreme
riding.
Outer Casting – (see Slider)
Preload – A condition of compressing a spring or elastomer before the operating loads are put on
the suspension, so that it provides a stiffer spring rate.
Piston – In front suspension, the part of the damper that slides back and forth inside of the
damping leg that houses the valves. It can also refer to the air piston in the air/spring assembly
that slides back and forth compressing the air, thus causing a change in the spring rate of the
suspension.
Porosity – The condition or property of having pores in a material that will allow gas or liquid to
pass through it.
Platform Plus Damping – A new damping system found on 2005 Rear shocks (featured on
Metel and Radium’s). This system will establish a pedaling efficiency platform similar to SPV, but
is done through unique valving that is not adjustable (helps in bump control).
Rapid Travel II, Wind Down – Systems that are used to control the travel of suspension forks.
Also known as RTII, and WD. RTII is used for the specific purposes of controlling the travel in two
conditions: climbing and descending. WD is an incremental travel adjustment between two set
limits and does not affect the spring rate of the fork as severely as RTII.
Quad Ring seal – New seal that replaces standard o-rings in designs that require more efficient
air and oil sealing methods.
Rebound – The phase of the suspension operation in which the wheel returns to its original
position on the ground after compression.
Rebound Damping – Restriction of the rate that the suspension rebounds when the compression
load is relived.
Remote Lock out system – A handle-bar lever actuated system that controls the lock out
function on front and rear suspension products.
Reverse Arch Technology – Also known as RA. It is a system that is designed to move the arch
of a fork to the backside of a fork, rather than the conventional front position. It was designed to
provide greater rotational torque strength to an outer casting (slider), without adding additional
weight to the fork.
Snap Valve SPV– High platform, low threshold SPV damping system that is resistant to pedaling
induced movement but still offers bottoming resistance and small bump sensitivity.
Sag – The amount a suspension fork compresses at rest with a normal load (rider’s weight).
Schrader Valve – Valve used to introduce air into a chamber.
FRONT SUSPENSION TERMINOLOGY (CONT.)
Seal – A part, usually neoprene rubber or Buna, that keeps contaminants out and/or working
fluids in.
Semi Bath – A lubrication system that uses a lubricating oil to keep the bushing surface and
stanchion legs (inner legs) as friction free as possible during movement of the stanchion legs.
Spring Rate – The rate at which the resistance of a spring increases as it is compressed.
SPV – (Stable Platform Valve) new damping system that allows the rider to set the pedaling
platform that he desires to pedal most efficiently in all situations. It is dependent on the pressure
that the SPV valve experiences from the movement of the wheel vs. the terrain and the platform
that is set by pressure introduced to other side of the SPV valve through changes of air pressure
working on the damping oil.
SPV Evolve – The latest version of SPV damping technology that has increased its performance
with modifications to the original design.
Slider/Outer Casting – The tube (outer casting leg) of the suspension fork that0. remains fixed to
the wheel. It slides up and down on the stanchion leg (inner leg).
Stanchion Clamps - (Double-Triple Clamps) the portions of the fork crown that clamp around the
stanchion legs above and below the head tube of the bicycle frame on specific long travel
applications.
Stanchion Legs – The suspension tube (inner leg) fixed to the fork crown. It remains stationary
during the operation of the suspension.
Steer Tube – The long cylindrical tube that extends from the top of the fork crown. Its function is
to be inserted into the bicycle head tube and attach the suspension to the bicycle frame.
Thru Axle – (Hex-lock) A device used for mounting a thru axle hub to special outer legs that are
not made for standard quick release hubs. Manitou’s Hex-lock (thru axle) system is a special
patented system utilizing a hex shaped end that increases the stiffness of the fork and reduces
slippage in the joint between the axle clamps and the axle.
Top Out Bumper – A rubber, coil spring, or elastomer device that absorbs the shock that occurs
when the load is taken off a suspension so that it is allowed to rebound to its limits
TPC – (Twin Piston Chamber) a patented damping system that has independent pistons for
rebound and compression. The system utilizes a mixture of air and oil in the damping leg of the
fork to enhance the damping performance.
TPC+ - A variation of TPC that has added a floating piston to the compression damper to
enhance the performance of the compression damping under the load of bigger hits.
Travel – The amount that a wheel moves between the most compressed and the most extended
states of the suspension
Viscosity – A description of how a liquid flows. Liquids with higher viscosity are thicker flow less
easily or quickly than liquids with low viscosity. This has an affect on the damping speeds of
rebound and compression.
Volume Control – A new system designed to work with SPV as a control of the compression
ramp up rate of the fork. It has a range of adjustments from linear to very progressive.
Wiper Seal – A rubber material that is used as a seal to keep dirt and water out of the outer
casting legs. It is not designed to keep air pressure or extreme oil pressure in.
FFD and TPC Damping System Service
Disassembly Instructions for FFD and TPC Damping
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
1. First the rebound knob will need to be removed. Screw the rebound all the way in
(clockwise), and then remove the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it
counter- clockwise. Remove the knob by pulling gently away from the fork.
2. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft clockwise until it can be pushed
into the casting. (see Fig. 1)
3. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm wrench to
remove the compression rod screw.
4. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling firmly on
the casting. The fork uses the Semibath Lubrication system, use caution as the oil
that is in the casting will be released when the casting is removed, it is best to do this
over some type of catch pan.
5. For forks with Non-Adjustable compression damping:
a. Using a 26mm socket unscrew the damping assembly top cap from the
crown. It may be necessary to twist the assembly like you would be
unscrewing a screw and gently pull upward to free the assembly from the
crown. Fig 2 (Note: there will be a small amount of oil that comes out of
the inner leg, when the assembly is pulled from the crown)
6. For forks with Adjustable compression damping/Lock out:
a. Twist the knob all the way counter-clockwise to reduce the amount of
compression damping on the system.
b. Unscrew the 2mm Allen screw that holds the adjuster knob to the damping
assembly.
c. Remove the adjuster knob and unscrew the compression assembly from the
crown using a 20mm socket. It may be necessary to twist the assembly like
you would be unscrewing a screw and gently pull upward to free the
assembly from the crown. Fig. 2 (Note: there will be a small amount of oil
that comes out of the inner leg, when the assembly is pulled from the
crown)
7. For forks with Remote Lock-Out compression damping:
a. Make sure that the Lock out is in the off position.
b. Unscrew barrel adjuster in a counterclockwise direction until it stops.
c. Unscrew the set screw on the lever using a 2mm allen wrench.
d. Pull the cable out of the lever and remove the housing from the cable.
e. Unscrew the top cap of the Lock out assembly from the fork crown using
socket (Answer p/n: 83-2503) or an adjustable wrench.
f. Pull Lock out assembly out of crown by twisting the assembly like unscrewing
a screw and applying an upward pressure. Slowly pull assembly out of crown
and watch out for some excess damping oil to come out of inner leg as the
piston at the end of the assembly comes out of crown.
8. Turn fork upside down over drainage pan to empty Damping oil from the inner leg.
Stroke the Damper shaft on the bottom of the inner leg 3-5 times to purge the leg of
oil that is caught below the Rebound piston.
9. Unscrew Damper end cap from the bottom of the right leg and then carefully pull the
damping assembly out of inner leg. See Fig. 3
Assembly of FFD and TPC Damping System
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
10. Install the damping assembly into bottom of inner leg. Be sure to apply a thin layer
of Prep M grease onto piston ring that is around the piston at top of assembly.
Install the assembly and tighten end cap to specified torque value.
11. Turn Crown/steer/leg assembly right side up, so that the crown of the assembly is
facing you. Extend the the damping assembly all the way out and then pour
damping oil (P/N: 85-0023) into the right inner leg. Fill leg about ¼ full. Take a rag
and cover the top of the right inner leg and then stroke the the damping assembly
up and down about 5 times. This will insure that oil gets below the piston and not
create an air space.
12. Extend the damping assembly all the way out and then fill the inner leg to the
specified oil level in the Fastener Torque and Setup Levels Chart at the end of the
manual.
WARNING All top caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly
tightened prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
13. For forks with Non-Adjustable FFD:
a. Put a little bit of Prep M grease (Ref Answer Products PN 85-0031) on oring found on the lower piston of the FFD assembly.
b. Install the FFD Assy into the top right hand of the crown/steer using a
27mm socket. Tighten per the Axel Schematic and Torque Specification
Table.
14. For forks with Adjustable compression damping/Lock out:
a. Fill right leg with damping oil using 5wt Motorex fork oil (Ref Answer
Products PN 85-0023) to the height noted in the Axel Schematic and
Torque Specification Table. Cover the opening at the top of the right leg of
the crown/steer with a rag and cycle the fork six times. Recheck oil level
and add/drain to meet the level requirement.
b. Put a little bit of Prep M grease (Ref Answer Products PN 85-0031) on the
urethane or brown rubber o-ring found on the lower piston of the Lock out
assembly.
c. Twist the Hex shaped aluminum shaft that sticks up from the top cap
counter clockwise until it stops (the system is completely open to oil flow at
this point).
d. Using a motion like screwing in a screw. Twist the assy. and apply a little
pressure to insert the piston part of the mechanism past the threads at the
top of the inner leg. Then push the assy. into the leg until the threads on the
cap intersect the threads inside the inner leg, screw the cap. Tighten per
the Axel Schematic and Torque Specification Table.
e. Once the cap is tightened, twist the Hex shaped shaft clockwise until it
stops (this is the locked out position). Insert the springs into opposite holes
in the top cap and then place the ball bearings on top of the springs (place
a little dab of grease on spring to hold ball bearing in place).
f. Place the adjuster knob onto the hex shaped aluminum shaft and seat it
onto the top cap and ball bearing. Position the adjuster cap so that the
lever part of the cap is at the farthest point to the back of the crown.
g. Insert 2mm fixing screw and tighten to secure the knob. Twist the knob
counter clockwise to activate the fork suspension. Compress the fork
several times to circulate the oil through the system and then activate the
Lock out system by moving the lever clockwise to its stopping point at the
back of the crown. The fork should have approximately 5 mm of progressive
travel before it locks out.
Assembly of FFD and TPC Damping System – Cont.
15. For forks with Remote Lock-Out compression damping:
a. Fill right leg with damping oil using 5wt Motorex fork oil (Ref Answer
Products PN 85-0023) to the height noted in the Axel Schematic and
Torque Specification Table. Cover the opening at the top of the right leg of
the crown/steer with a rag and cycle the fork six times. Recheck oil level
and add/drain to meet the level requirement.
b. Put a little bit of Prep M grease (Ref Answer Products PN 85-0031) on the
urethane or rubber o-ring found on the lower piston of the Lock out
assembly.
c. Using a motion like screwing in a screw. Twist the assy. and apply a little
pressure to insert the piston part of the mechanism past the threads at the
top of the inner leg. Then push the assy. into the leg until the threads on the
cap intersect the threads inside the inner leg, screw the cap down using the
cut out 22mm socket. Tighten per the Axel Schematic and Torque
Specification Table.
d. With the lever in the released position (Red Lever will be up), install the
Remote Lock-Out cable by inserting it into the bottom of the clamp and up
through the lever. Pull the slack out of the cable and tighten down the 2mm
anchor screw on the lever. You should have approximately a 2mm gap
between the lever and the housing when it is properly installed. (See Figure
3)
e. Run the cable of the top of the lever and then through the hole on the back
of the lever.
f. Bend the cable in towards the stem at a 90degree angle, trim the cable so
that it is the same length as the lever itself and then install the cable end
crimp. (See figure 4)
g. Screw the barrel adjuster out in a clockwise direction until you just remove
the slack in the cable. If you tighten the cable to much the lock out will not
release and the fork will not move.
16. Turn completed crown/steer/leg assembly upside down, so that the compression
rod and damper shaft are facing you. You will see a bottom out bumper on the
damper shaft; slide this bumper down towards the end cap that is threaded into the
inner leg. This will help in keeping the shaft extended as you install the outer
casting. You could also insert air into the damper leg through the Schrader valve on
top of the right leg (SPV models). This extra pressure will help to keep the shaft
from moving.
17. Replace the o-ring at the end of the rebound shaft, if not you will risk having a leak
in that area.
18. Extend the rebound damper out from end cap as far as it will go and then slide
bottom out bumper towards the end cap as far as it will go. The bumper will help to
hold the damper shaft in place as you are inserting the inner legs into the casting.
19. Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject Semi Bath oil (5/40wt.
synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at 45 degree angle to the
ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject 16cc’s of oil into each
outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil.
20. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts casting.
Adjuster hex shaft should protrude slightly from casting.
21. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it
into the casting. Tighten per the Schematic and Torque Specification Table for your
fork.
22. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable. Knob should turn uninhibited until the
indicator is stopped by the casting (if applicable). If not, remove knob and reinstall
on hex shaft in 1/6 turn increments until full travel is reached.
23. Install the compression rod screw and tighten per the Black Schematic and Torque
Specification Table.
24. For forks with the Wind Down system: follow steps 2 – 5 from the Wind Down
Travel Adjust assembly instructions.
SPV Damping System Service
Disassembly Instructions for SPV Damping
Fig. 1
SPV Cap
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
5. The rebound knob needs to be removed. Screw the rebound all the way in
(clockwise), and then remove the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it
counter- clockwise. Remove the knob by pulling gently away from the fork.
6. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft clockwise until it can be
pushed into the casting. (see Fig. 1)
7. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm
wrench to remove the compression rod screw.
8. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling
firmly on the casting. The fork uses the Semibath Lubrication system, use caution
as the oil that is in the casting will be released when the casting is removed, it is
best to do this over some type of catch pan.
WARNING This fork uses compressed air as part of the SPV damping system
and must be relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air
pressure could result in injury or possible death.
9. Remove Schrader valve dust cap from Red Hex Shaped Top Cap on the top right
of the crown. Release all air pressure from the Schrader valve. (Fig. 2)
10. Remove SPV Volume Control Cap (Red Hex Shaped Top Cap) from top right of
the crown with a 24mm Socket. Turn fork upside down over drainage pan to
empty Damping oil from the inner leg. Stroke the Damper shaft on the bottom of
the inner leg 3-5 times to purge the leg of oil that is caught below the Rebound
piston.
11. Unscrew Damper end cap from the bottom of the right leg. (Fig. 3)
12. Pull the SPV Damping assembly out of inner leg. To check the function of the
SPV valve: Visually inspect the gap between the SPV valve and the bottom of the
damping piston. It should have approximately 1mm of space (Fig. 4). The valve
should spring back to its open rested position after compressing it with your
fingers (Fig. 5). If the valve is not responsive or all the time closed, it is bad and
the assembly needs to be repaired or replaced.
Assembly of SPV Damping System
WARNING All top caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly
tightened prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Open
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
1. Install SPV damping assembly into bottom of other inner leg. Be sure to check the
function of the SPV valve and apply a thin layer of Prep M grease onto o-ring that
is around the piston at top of assembly. Install the assembly and tighten end cap
to specified torque value.(Fig. 6)
2. Turn Crown/steer/leg assembly right side up, so that the crown of the assembly is
facing you. Extend the SPV damping assembly all the way out and then pour
damping oil (P/N: 85-0023) into the right inner leg. Fill leg about ¼ full. Take a rag
and cover the top of the right inner leg and then stroke the SPV damping
assembly up and down about 5 times. This will insure that oil gets below the
piston and not create an air space.
3. Extend the damping assembly all the way out and then fill the inner leg to the
specified oil level in the Fastener Torque and Setup Levels Chart at the end of the
manual
4. Insert the Volume control assembly into the top of the right inner leg and tighten it
to specified torque value. Be sure that you unscrew the red 16mm Hex shaped
Volume control nut all of the way out counterclockwise until it is flush with the
black outer surface of the cap, after you tighten the entire assembly into the inner
leg.
Assembly of SPV Damping System-Cont.
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
1. Turn completed crown/steer/leg assembly upside down, so that the compression
rod and damper shaft are facing you. You will see a bottom out bumper on the
damper shaft; slide this bumper down towards the end cap that is threaded into
the inner leg. This will help in keeping the shaft extended as you install the outer
casting. You could also insert air into the damper leg through the Schrader valve
on top of the right leg (SPV models). This extra pressure will help to keep the
shaft from moving.
2. Replace the o-ring at the end of the rebound shaft (Fig. 7), if not you will risk
having a leak in that area. On the Nixon, Minute, and Stance Forks there are two
different O-rings which may have been used on your fork. Use the same color oring as the original when you replace it, both styles will be included in your service
kits (Fig. 8).
3. Extend the rebound damper out from end cap as far as it will go and then slide
bottom out bumper towards the end cap as far as it will go. The bumper will help
to hold the damper shaft in place as you are inserting the inner legs into the
casting.
4. Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject Semi Bath oil (5/40wt.
synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at 45 degree angle to
the ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject 16cc’s of oil into
each outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil.
5. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts
casting. Adjuster hex shaft should protrude slightly from casting.
6. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it
into the casting (Fig. 9). Tighten per the Schematic and Torque Specification
Table for your fork.
7. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable. Knob should turn uninhibited until the
indicator is stopped by the casting (if applicable). If not, remove knob and
reinstall on hex shaft in 1/6 turn increments until full travel is reached.
8. Install the compression rod screw and tighten per the Black Schematic and
Torque Specification Table.
9. For forks with the Wind Down system: follow steps 2 – 5 from the Wind Down
Travel Adjust assembly instructions.
10. Pressurize the SPV system to 50psi and check for proper damping function.
Use: 8mm Allen wrench, 2mm Allen wrench, 11mm Nut Driver or open end wrench,
Syringe for Semi Bath Oil, Air pump
Fig. 9
Cartridge Damping System Service
Set Screw
All Cartridge Damping systems are serviced the same regardless of which forks they
are used in, the only difference between the different models is the length of the
cartridge body, compression assembly and/or in some instances the length of the
rebound assembly. A chart of the dimensional differences is provided at the end of the
section for your reference. All knobs, o-rings, seals and end caps are the same. One
of the advantages to the system is the fact that you can service the system without
having to remove the outer legs from the fork.
Cartridge Damper System Removal
Fig 1 and 2
Fig. 3
Remove the cartridge from the fork:
1. Screw the rebound adjuster in clockwise fully so you are at the max.
rebound position. Remove the rebound knob from the bottom of the fork
by unscrewing the fixing bolt with a 2mm allen wrench. Pull the knob out
of the rebound assembly.
2. Remove the compression knob from the top of the fork using a 2mm allen
wrench. Remove the detent balls and springs after pulling off knob. (See
Fig 1 and 2) Red knob is for CID systems and Black is TPC systems.
3. Invert the fork and insert 8mm Allen wrench into the end of the Rebound
Shaft on the bottom of the right leg. Turn the wrench in a Clock Wise
direction in order to loosen the damper shaft in the casting. (See Fig.3)
You are turning the Damper Shaft in a way that causes it to disappear
into the casting leg.
4. Screw in the Rebound Casting Plug (Answer P/N**-****) or a rubber
stopper into the lower casting to keep the semi-bath from leaking out.
Note: if you suspect that the cartridge is leaking into the outer leg
omit this step and drain the oil from the casting. (See fig. 4)
5. Turn the fork back upright and remove the cartridge from the fork using a
22mm socket by unscrewing it counterclockwise.
CTPC+ Damper Rebuild Instructions
Disassembly
Fig 4
Fig. 5
Place Cartridge assembly in bicycle work stand or secure with Cartridge Clamp
Blocks (Answer P/N **-****) with the cartridge in an upright position.
1. Using a 22mm socket remove the TPC+ compression assembly from the
cartridge by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Once you have completely
unscrewed the assembly, pull it out of the cartridge.
2. Pour out the oil in the cartridge and using a **mm or adjustable wrench,
remove the rebound assembly by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Once
you have completely unscrewed the assembly, carefully pull it out of the
cartridge so that you don’t damage the piston rings on the threads in the
cartridge.
3. Clean the cartridge body and check for scratch or imperfections in the
inner walls of the tube.
Reassembly
Place Cartridge assembly in bicycle work stand or secure with Cartridge Clamp
Blocks (Answer P/N **-****) with the cartridge upside down.
5. Lightly coat the piston ring on the rebound assembly with Motorex
grease. Insert the assy. into the cartridge body being careful not to
damage the piston ring on the threads. Also apply a small amount of blue
Loctite to the threads of the end cap. (see Fig. 6)
6. Using a 22mm or adjustable wrench, tighten the rebound assy. end cap in
a clockwise direction to 50 in/lbs (5.65 N-M).
Fig. 6
Cartridge Damping System Service - cont.
Reassembly-Cont.
Fig. 7
1. Turn the cartridge right side up and fill half way with Motorex 5w Shock
oil. Stroke the rebound assembly several times to remove any air that
maybe trapped under the piston. Pull the rebound assembly to the bottom
of its stroke.
2. Finish filling the cartridge body to the correct level listed in table. In order
to determine the proper oil level, measure from the top of the cartridge
body to the top surface of the oil (see Fig. 7) or use Oil Level tool.
3. Lightly coat the piston rings on both pistons on the TPC+ compression
assembly with Motorex grease. Apply a small amount of blue Loctite to
the threads on the cartridge body. Insert the assy. into the cartridge body
being careful not to damage the piston rings as they enter the cartridge
body. (Fig. 8)
4. Using a 22mm or adjustable wrench, tighten the compression assy. top
cap in a clockwise direction to 50 in/lbs (5.65 N-M).
CID (Intrinsic) Damper Rebuild Instructions
Field service of the CID cartridge is not recommend as it is necessary to pull a slight
vacuum on the CID Assy to make sure that the IFP is properly positioned. To do this
you must have vacuum tool. (Answer P/N **-**** ) Also a clear plastic tube is used in
these instructions for demonstration purposes, actual cartridge is metal.
Disassembly
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Place Cartridge assembly in bicycle work stand or secure with Cartridge Clamp
Blocks (Answer P/N **-****) with the cartridge in an inverted position.
1. Using an adjustable wrench, remove the rebound assembly from the
cartridge by unscrewing it counterclockwise.(Fig. 9) Once you have
completely unscrewed the assembly, carefully pull it out of the cartridge
so that you don’t damage the piston rings on the threads in the cartridge.
2. Pour out the oil in the cartridge and using a 22mm socket, remove the
CID Compression assembly by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Once you
have completely unscrewed the assembly, pull the assy. from the
cartridge body. (Fig. 10) Clean the cartridge body and check for scratch
or imperfections in the inner walls of the tube. Next examine the
compression assy., make sure that the CID valve body is free to move
(i.e. will open and close), it is not necessary that it spring to the open
position, only that it has full travel.
Reassembly
Place Cartridge assembly in bicycle work stand or secure with Cartridge Clamp
Blocks (Answer P/N **-****) with the cartridge right side up.
1. Lightly coat the piston ring and IFP on the CID compression assembly
with Motorex grease and apply a small amount of blue Loctite to the
threads of the cartridge body. Insert the assy. into the cartridge body
being careful not to damage the piston ring and o-ring as they enter the
body. Screw the top cap on about 6 turns. DO NOT tighten the top cap
down before you pull the vacuum on the IFP.
2. Insert the vacuum tool (p/n **-***) into the open end of cartridge body, pull
back fully on the plunger and hold for 60 seconds, this creates a vacumm
to make sure that the IFP is fully extended. (Fig. 11)
3. Using a 22mm socket wrench, tighten the CID top cap in a clockwise
direction to 50 in/lbs (5.65 N-M).
4. Turn the cartridge upside down at 45 degree angle and fill half way with
Motorex 5w Shock oil. Lightly tap the side of the cartridge body several
times to remove any air that maybe trapped between the IFP and the CID
Piston.
Cartridge Damping System Service - cont.
Reassembly-Cont.
5. Turn the cartridge body so that it is fully upright and completely fill the
body with 5wt shock oil (Fig. 12). Pull the rebound assy. out so that it is in
the fully extended position, the valve assembly is closest to the end cap,
from here slide the endcap back down the shaft 10mm. It is easiest to
measure from the nut to the flange on the endcap. (see Fig. 13)
6. Lightly grease the piston ring on the rebound shaft. Carefully insert the
assy. into the cartridge body taking care that the piston ring isn’t
damaged by the threads of the body.
7. As you tighten the cap down, oil and trapped air is going to bleed out of
the small hole in the side of the cap. This is supposed to happen to insure
that there is no air in the system. It is recommended to wrap a shop towel
around the cartridge body below the end cap to catch this so it doesn’t
create a mess in the work area.
8. Stroke the rebound assembly several times to dislodge any air that is
trapped in the CID. Allow the cartridge to sit for a few minutes, remove
the rebound assy. Remove the rebound assy, fully refill the damper
cartridge with shock oil. Regrease the rebound piston lightly as before
and apply a drop of Loctite to the threads of the endcap.
9. Carefully insert the assy. into the cartridge body taking care that the
piston ring isn’t damaged by the threads of the body. Again you will have
a small amount of oil and air bleed out of the hole in the endcap and this
is normal.
10. Tighten down the end cap in a clockwise direction to 50 in/lbs (5.65 N-M)
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Cartridge Damper System Reinstallation
Fig. 13
Bleed Hole
Fig. 14
To reinstall the cartridge in the fork:
1. Make sure that the rebound adjuster is screwed in clockwise fully.
2. Replace the o-ring on the rebound shaft to match the one that was
installed when you removed the assy. (either black or clear)
3. Slightly compress the fork and insert the Cartridge Damper System into
the fork leg. Turn the cartridge clockwise to engage the threads of the
rebound assembly.
4. Release the fork so it extends to its full travel. If you drained the Semibath
oil previously, add the proper weight and amount as listed in the table.
Using a 22mm socket screw the top cap into the fork and tighten it to **
in/lbs (** N-M)
5. Invert the fork, remove the Rebound Casting Plug (Answer P/N**-****) or
rubber stopper from the lower casting.
6. Insert an 8mm Allen wrench into the end of the Rebound Shaft on the
bottom of the right leg. Turn the wrench in a Counterclockwise direction
in order to tighten the damper shaft in the casting. (See Fig.15) You are
turning the Damper Shaft in a way that causes it to thread out of the
casting leg. The end of the damper shaft should be flush with the end of
the casting. (See Below)
First thread of rebound
shaft even with the surface
of the outer leg
Fig. 15
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
7. Thoroughly clean the area in the end of the rebound shaft of any trapped
semi-bath oil. Otherwise it will give the appearance that the fork is
leaking.
8. Install the rebound adjustment knob and secure it with the screw using a
2mm allen wrench. Apply a drop of blue LocTite and tighten to 10 in/Lbs
(**N-M)
9. Turn the fork upright, install the detent springs and balls in to the top cap.
Install the compression adjusting knob and screw. secure them using a
Coil Spring Service Instructions
Removal Coil Spring Assembly
Bleed Hole
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
WARNING This fork uses a preloaded coil spring provide spring resistance. The
spring must be relieved of its preload prior to servicing. Failure to do so could
result in injury or possible death.
For Forks with Pre-Load adjuster assemblies (coil spring systems):
To Change the Spring:
1. Rotate the Pre-Load adjuster knob all of the way counter clockwise to reduce the preload on the spring. Rotate adjuster on top left of fork crown counterclockwise until it
stops. This will relieve spring tension on the fork.
2. Remove the adjuster knob from the top of the Pre-Load adjuster assembly, by
unscrewing the 2mm Allen head screw. (See Fig 1)
3. Use a 20mm socket and unscrew the remainder of the assembly from the crown. Pull
the spring out of the fork. (See Fig 2)
4. Generously grease the spring and insert it into the inner leg. The spring needs to seat
onto the top of the compression rod.
5. Screw the preload assembly into the inner leg and tighten per the fastener torque
guide at the end of this manual.
6. Install the adjuster knob and 2mm hex screw.
For a complete teardown of the spring system including the compression rod:
1. You must remove the outer casting from the inner legs:
a. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm
wrench to remove the compression rod screw.
b. From the right leg dropout, if the fork has adjustable rebound, the knob will
need to be removed. Screw the rebound all the way in (clockwise), then
remove the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the knob by pulling gently away from the fork
c. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper clockwise until it can be pushed
into the casting. (See Fig. 3)
d. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling
firmly on the casting. If the fork uses the Semi-bath Lubrication system, use
caution as the oil that is in the casting will be released when the casting is
removed, it is best to do this over some type of catch pan.
2. Then remove the end cap from the bottom of the left leg and remove the compression
rod assembly and spring through the bottom of the leg. (See Fig. 4)
3. Turn the fork over, rotate the preload adjuster on top left of fork crown
counterclockwise until it stops. This will reset the preload in the lowest tension setting
when you rebuild the fork.
4. Remove the adjuster knob from the top of the Pre-Load adjuster assembly on the top
of the crown on the left side of the fork, by unscrewing the 2mm Allen head screw.
5. Unscrew the assembly from the crown and then pull it out of the inner leg.
Installing Coil Spring Assembly
Fig. 5
1. Reassemble the compression rod assembly and install in the fork leg.
2. Generously grease the spring and insert it into the inner leg. The spring needs to seat
onto the top of the compression rod. (See Fig. 5)
3. Screw the preload assembly into the inner leg and tighten per the fastener torque
guide at the end of this manual.
4. Install the adjuster knob and 2mm hex screw.
5. For Grease Forks - Remove rubber fork boots from the casting and slide them onto
the inner legs of the crown/steer assy. Lightly grease the bushings on the inside of the
outer leg casting and on the lower portion of the inner legs below the boots using a
thick grease such as Motorex Bike Grease 2000. Proceed to Step 6.
6. For Semibath Forks - Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject
Semi Bath oil (5/40wt. synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at
45 degree angle to the ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject
16cc’s of oil into each outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil.
7. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts casting.
Adjuster hex shaft should protrude slightly from casting.
8. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it into
the casting. Tighten per the Schematic and Torque Specification Table for your fork.
9. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable.
Air Assist System Service Instructions
Removal of Air Assist Spring and Compression Rod Assembly
WARNING This fork uses compressed air to supplement the spring resistance and
must be relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure
could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
1. Remove all of the air pressure from the Schrader valve on top of the crown on the left side
(Black top cap), by depressing the Schrader valve. Be sure to hold fork with the top of the
crown facing upwards. Note: When the air is released, there is a mixture of the oil and air
inside the leg.
2. If you have not removed the Outer casting follow these instructions, then proceed to next
step:
a. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm
wrench to remove the compression rod screw.
b. From the right leg dropout, if the fork has adjustable rebound, the knob will
need to be removed. Screw the rebound all the way in (clockwise) remove
the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it counter clockwise. Remove
the knob by pulling gently away from the fork.
c. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper clockwise until it can be pushed
into the casting. (See Fig. 1)
d. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling
firmly on the casting. If the fork uses the Semi bath Lubrication system, use
caution as the oil that is in the casting will be released when the casting is
removed, it is best to do this over some type of catch pan.
e. Unscrew the end cap on the bottom of the inner leg and remove compression
rod assembly. This will consist of a compression rod, bottom and top out
bumpers, the end cap, and should be followed by a coil spring (See Fig.2).
This spring is the one that would be changed if the fork’s spring rate needed
to be changed beyond the capabilities of the air pressure.
3. Change the quad seal and inspect the finish of the interior of the inner leg. If the seam in
the leg is not smooth, replace the Crown Steerer assy, as this is why the system is failing.
Installation of the Air Assist Spring System
WARNING All leg caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 4
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened prior to
use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
1. Generously grease the spring and insert it into the inner leg. The spring needs to seat
Fig. 5
onto the top cap. (Fig. 4)
2. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease onto the threads at the bottom of the left inner leg
with your finger.
3. Screw the Compression rod assembly into the inner leg and tighten the end cap per the
fastener torque guide at the end of this manual. (See Fig. 3)
4. For Grease Forks - Remove rubber fork boots from the casting and slide them onto the
inner legs of the crown/steer assy. Lightly grease the bushings on the inside of the outer
leg casting and on the lower portion of the inner legs below the boots using a thick grease
such as Motorex Bike Grease 2000. Proceed to Step 6.
5. For Semi bath Forks - Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject Semi
Bath oil (5/40wt. synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at 45 degree
angle to the ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject 16cc’s of oil into
each outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil.
6. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts casting.
7. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it into the
casting. Tighten per the Schematic and Torque Specification Table for your fork. (Fig. 5)
8. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable.
9. Screw in the comp rod bolt. Tighten to the recommended torque listed in the Schematic
and Torque Specification Table
Wind-Down Travel Adjust Service Instructions
WARNING This fork uses a preloaded coil spring provide spring resistance. The
spring must be relieved of its preload prior to servicing. Failure to do so could
result in injury or possible death.
Removal Wind Down Travel Adjust Assembly
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
1. Make sure that the Travel Adust is in its fully extended position(Fig 1). Rotate
adjuster on top left of fork crown counterclockwise until it stops. This will relieve spring
tension on the fork.
2. Remove the adjuster knob from the top of the Wind Down adjuster assembly on the
top of the crown on the left side of the fork, by unscrewing the 2mm Allen head screw.
Remove the o-ring that is located on the indicator dial.
3. Use a 28mm socket and unscrew the remainder of the assembly from the crown (Fig.
1). The spring will be attached to the bottom of the assembly, when you pull it from
the inner leg. (Fig. 3)
4. Pull the spring out of the Travel Adjust assembly.
5. If spring will not come out, you must take the outer casting off of inner legs.:
a. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm
wrench to remove the compression rod screw.
b. From the right leg dropout, if the fork has adjustable rebound, the knob will
need to be removed. Screw the rebound all the way in (clockwise) remove
the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it counter clockwise. Remove
the knob by pulling gently away from the fork
c. Use a 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper clockwise until it can be pushed
into the casting. (see Fig. 4)
d. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling
firmly on the casting. If the fork uses the Semibath Lubrication system, use
caution as the oil that is in the casting will be released when the casting is
removed, it is best to do this over some type of catch pan.
e. Then remove the end cap from the bottom of the left leg and remove the Wind
Down compression rod assembly and spring as a single unit through the
bottom of the leg (Fig. 4).
f. You will find that on earlier production fork models, that there is a nylon
washer at the top of the compression rod assembly that is holding the spring
in place. Hold the spring in one hand and the compression rod assembly in
your other hand and pull the apart from each other at a slight angle to each
other.
g. Once you have the two apart, remove the Allen bolt on top of the
compression rod with a 4mm Allen wrench and remove the nylon washer. Reinstall the bolt without the washer, it will not affect the operation of the Wind
Down mechanism and insure that you will not have to take the whole fork
apart in the future to change ride kit springs.
h. Note: the spring that you remove should have another spring (booster spring)
intertwined within it
6. If you had to remove the outer casting, reassemble the compression rod assembly
and then follow instructions for Installation of Outer Casting.
7. Optional Ride Kits - If you need to adjust to overall ride characteristics either softer or
firmer, purchase and/or install as follows (Kit Part Numbers can be found in the
Service Part section of this manual):
a. Soft - Remove the Booster Spring
b. Firm - Purchase Firm Ride Kit and install the Booster Spring
c. Extra Firm - Purchase Extra Firm Ride Kit and install the Booster Spring
8. To remove the booster spring from the main spring; grasp the flat end of the booster
spring with a pair of needle nose pliers and twist it in a clockwise direction to unscrew
it from the main spring.
9. To install a booster spring into a main spring catch the flat end of the booster spring
under the flat end of the main spring and twist it counterclockwise into the main
spring. Make sure that the booster spring is threaded all of the way down into and
contained by the main spring. Before inserting it back into the inner leg.
Wind-Down Travel Adjust Service Instructions
Installation for Wind Down Travel Adjust AssemblyWARNING All leg caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened prior to
use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 6
If you removed the Outer casting:
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
1. Reassemble the compression rod assembly and install in the fork leg.(Fig. 6)
2. Generously grease the spring and insert it into the inner leg. The spring needs to seat
onto the top of the compression rod. (Fig. 7)
3. Insert the wind down top cap assembly into the spring; the "D" shaped portion of the
adjuster assembly must fit into the "D" shaped end of the main spring.
4. Screw the assembly into the inner leg and tighten per the fastener torque guide at the
end of this manual.
5. Install adjuster knob and 2mm hex screw. Turn the knob counterclockwise until it
stops. This insures that the fork is in its longest travel position. If the travel indicator
arrow on the crown is not lined up with the maximum travel point on the indicator dial,
continue to turn the knob counterclockwise until the indicator points to maximum
travel.
6. For Grease Forks - Remove rubber fork boots from the casting and slide them onto
the inner legs of the crown/steer assy. Lightly grease the bushings on the inside of the
outer leg casting and on the lower portion of the inner legs below the boots using a
thick grease such as Motorex Bike Grease 2000. Proceed to Step 8.
7. For Semibath Forks - Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject
Semi Bath oil (5/40wt. synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at
45 degree angle to the ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject
16cc’s of oil into each outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil.
8. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts casting.
Adjuster hex shaft should protrude slightly from casting.
9. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it into
the casting. Tighten per the Schematic and Torque Specification Table for your fork.
10. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable.
11. Install the compression rod screw and tighten per the Schematic and Torque
Specification Table.
If you only removed the Top Cap:
1.
2.
Fig. 9
3.
Fig. 10
Generously grease the spring and insert it into the inner leg. The spring needs to seat
onto the top of the compression rod.
Insert the wind down top cap assembly into the spring; the "D" shaped portion of the
adjuster assembly must fit into the "D" shaped end of the main spring. (Fig. 8) Screw
the assembly into the inner leg and tighten per the fastener torque guide at the end of
this manual.
Install adjuster knob and 2mm hex screw. Turn the knob counterclockwise until it
stops. This insures that the fork is in its longest travel position. If the travel indicator
arrow on the crown is not lined up with the maximum travel point on the indicator dial,
then the fork must be reclocked.
a. To Reclock the fork loosen the compression rod bolt on the bottom of the
outer casting
b. Continue to turn the knob counterclockwise until the indicator points to
maximum travel on the knob.
c. Retighten the compression bolt per the fastener torque guide at the end of
this manual.
Air Spring System Service Instructions
Removal of Air Spring and Compression Rod Assembly
WARNING This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be
relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result
in injury or possible death.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
1. Remove all of the air pressure from the Schrader valve on top of the crown on the left side
(Black top cap), by depressing the Schrader valve. Be sure to hold fork with the top of the
crown facing upwards. Note: When the air is released, there is a mixture of the oil and air
inside the leg that maybe discharged.
2. If you have not removed the Outer casting follow these instructions, then proceed to next
step:
a. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm
wrench to remove the compression rod screw.
b. From the right leg dropout, if the fork has adjustable rebound, the knob will
need to be removed. Screw the rebound all the way in (clockwise) remove
the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it counter clockwise. Remove
the knob by pulling gently away from the fork.
c. Use a 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper clockwise until it can be pushed
into the casting. (see Fig. 1)
d. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling
firmly on the casting. If the fork uses the Semibath Lubrication system, use
caution as the oil that is in the casting will be released when the casting is
removed, it is best to do this over some type of catch pan.
3. Unscrew the end cap on the bottom of the inner leg and remove compression rod
assembly. This will consist of a compression rod, bottom and top out bumpers, the end
cap, and should be followed by a coil spring and then another rod (air push rod). This
spring is the one that would be changed if the fork’s SAG needed to be changed beyond
the capabilities of the air pressure.
There are now two ways to remove the air piston from the inner leg:
A. An Air Piston Removal tool has been developed that will enable you to remove the piston
without having to take the fork apart. (P/N: 85-8062).
1. Remove air dust cap covering the Schrader Valve.
2. Depress Schrader valve to release air pressure.
3. Remove air cap on top of leg with 20mm socket.
4. Drain the oil off of the piston if it is present.
5. Insert Air Piston Removal Tool into the air piston and turn handle counter-clockwise
until tight to lock it in the air piston. Fig 2 for insertion example.
6. Pull out the tool and the Air Piston will come with it. You may need to gently rock
the piston back and forth to clear the threads in the top of the leg. Fig. 3
7. See Installation of the Air Piston for Air Spring Forks instructions on next page
B. Without this tool, you will need to follow the procedures in the following section.
10. Remove air dust cap covering the Schrader valve.
11. Depress Schrader valve to release air pressure.
12. Remove air cap on top of Left leg with 20mm socket.
13. Remove left leg end cap and compression rod assembly from inner left leg. Then
remove spring and Air piston rod.
14. Use a long narrow rod approximately 18”/458mm long and no greater than
¼”/7mm in diameter and insert it into the left inner leg from the bottom of the leg.
Be sure to direct the rod through the center of the negative spring assembly that
is about halfway up the inner leg.
15. Once the rod has contacted the air piston, use a rubber mallet and tap the piston
out through the top of the inner leg. Caution: Do not allow rod used for pushing
piston out to contact the inside wall of inner leg during procedure, the surface of
the leg could be damaged.
16. For Reinstallation see Installation of Assembly for Air Spring Forks
E2 Air System Service Instructions
Removal of Air Spring Assemblyssion Rod Assembly
WARNING This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be
relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result
in injury or possible death.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Remove air dust cap covering the Schrader valve.
Depress Schrader valve to release air pressure.
Remove air cap on top of Left leg with 20mm socket.
Remove rebound adjuster knob using a 2mm hex wrench.
From the right leg dropout, use 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft
clockwise until it can be pushed into the casting. (See Fig. 1)
6. Remove 11mm hex bolt (Compression Rod bolt) from bottom of Left leg.
7. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting.
8. Remove the bottom out bumper, washer and Spacer (if applicable) from the
Compression rod. (See Fig. 2)
9. Push the Piston and Compression Rod out of the top of the leg by pushing on the
Compression Rod. You may need to use a screwdriver or long allen wrench
placed in the end of the Compression Rod to fully remove it from the leg as the
leg is longer than the Comp Rod. (See Fig 3)
10. For Reinstallation see Installation of Spring Assembly for E2 Air Spring Forks
Assembly Instructions
Installation of Spring Assembly for E2 Air Spring Forks
WARNING All leg caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened prior to use.
Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
1. Re-install the air push rod, positive spring (that has been well greased), and
compression rod assembly. The Air Push Rods are color coded to the fork travel,
a 120mm travel fork is red, 100mm is white, and 80mm is black. (See Fig. 4)
2. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease onto the threads at the top of the left
inner leg with your finger.
3. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease around the outside diameter of the new
air piston.
4. Insert the air piston, larger cupped side down (See photo below – Piston shown
top up) into the inner leg through the threaded area at the top of the inner leg.
Use your fingers to push the piston past the threads into the leg. (See Fig. 5)
5. Using a long screwdriver or rod, push the piston fully into leg sp that is in contact
with the Compression Rod.
6. Pour about 3cc of a 40wt or greater automotive oil into the top of the piston and
then install the air cap assembly. Tighten per the Fastener and Torque Values
section.
7. Fully extend the damper shaft and slide the rubber bumper and spacers against
the inner leg end cap, also slide the rubber bumber and spacers down to the end
of the inner leg on the Compression Rod. Lightly grease the bushings on the
inside of the outer leg casting using a thick grease such as Motorex Bike Grease
2000. Insert the crown/steer assembly into the outer legs to the upper bushing.
8. Push the outer legs past the lower bushing and reinstall the 4mm bolt and tighten
8mm damper fitting in a counterclockwise direction. Tighten per the Fastener
and Torque Values section.
***Use a shock pump (p/n 85-4069) to fill the air system to the recommended levels
as outlined in the Black Fastener and Torque Values.
R7 Air System Service Instructions
Removal of Air Piston and Compression Rod Assembly
WARNING This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and
must be relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure
could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 1
There are now two ways to remove the air piston from the inner leg.
A. An Air Piston Removal tool has been developed that will enable you to remove the
piston without having to take the fork apart. (P/N: 85-8062).
Fig. 2
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Remove air dust cap covering the Schrader Valve.
Depress Schrader valve to release air pressure.
Remove air cap on top of leg with 20mm socket. (Fig. 1)
Drain the oil off of the piston if it is present.
Insert Air Piston Removal Tool into the air piston and turn handle counterclockwise until tight to lock it in the air piston. (Fig. 2 Demonstrates what you
are trying to do)
6. Pull out the tool and the Air Piston will come with it. You may need to gently
rock the piston back and forth to clear the threads in the top of the leg. The
Compression Rod and negative spring will remain in the fork. (Fig. 3)
7. For reinstallation see Air Piston, see Installation of the Air Piston for R7 Air
Spring Forks instructions on next page
B. Without this tool, you will need to follow the procedures in the following section.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Remove air dust cap covering the Schrader valve.
Depress Schrader valve to release air pressure.
Remove air cap on top of Left leg with 20mm socket.
Remove rebound adjuster knob using a 2mm hex wrench.
From the right leg dropout, use 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft
clockwise until it can be pushed into the casting. (Fig. 4)
6. Remove 11mm hex bolt (Compression Rod bolt) from bottom of Left leg.
7. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting.
8. Remove the end cap on the Left inner leg and remove Compression rod/
negative spring assembly. (Fig. 5)
9. Push the Air Piston out of the top of the leg by pushing on the Compression
Rod. You may need to use a screwdriver placed in the end of the Compression
Rod to fully remove it from the leg as the leg is longer than the Comp Rod.
10. For Reinstallation, see Installation of Spring Assembly for E2 Air Spring Forks
Assembly Instructions
Installation of the Air Piston for R7 Forks
Fig. 6
1. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease onto the threads at the top of the left
inner leg with your finger.
2. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease around the outside diameter of the new
air piston.
3. Insert the air piston, larger cupped side up (the end with the glide ring goes up,
See Fig. 6) into the inner leg through the threaded area at the top of the inner leg.
Use your fingers to push the piston past the threads into the leg.
4. Using a long screwdriver or rod, push the piston fully into leg sp that is in contact
with the Compression Rod.
5. Pour about 3cc of a 40wt or greater automotive oil into the top of the piston and
then install the air cap assembly. Tighten per the Fastener and Torque Values
section
***Use a shock pump (p/n 85-4069) to fill the air system to the recommended
levels as outlined in the R7 Fastener and Torque Values Chart in the back of this
manual.
Installation of Air Piston and Compression Rod Assembly for R7
Forks
Fig. 7
WARNING All leg caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly
tightened prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened prior to
use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 8
1. Re-install the Compression rod, Negative spring (that has been well greased),
and end cap. Torque the end cap to 35-50 in-lbs. (Fig. 7)
2. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease onto the threads at the top of the left
inner leg with your finger.
6. Apply a small amount of Prep M grease around the outside diameter of the new
air piston.
7. Insert the air piston, larger cupped side up (the end with the glide ring goes up,
See Fig. 6) into the inner leg through the threaded area at the top of the inner leg.
Use your fingers to push the piston past the threads into the leg.
8. Using a long screwdriver or rod, push the piston fully into leg so that is in contact
with the Compression Rod.
9. Pour about 3cc of a 40wt or greater automotive oil into the top of the piston and
then install the air cap assembly. Tighten per the Fastener and Torque Values
section.
10. Fully extend the damper shaft and slide the rubber bumper and spacers against
the inner leg end cap, also slide the rubber bumper and spacers down to the end
of the inner leg on the Compression Rod. Lightly grease the bushings on the
inside of the outer leg casting using a thick grease such as Motorex Bike Grease
2000. Insert the crown/steer assembly into the outer legs to the upper bushing.
11. Push the outer legs past the lower bushing and reinstall the 4mm bolt and tighten
8mm damper fitting in a counterclockwise direction. (See Fig. 8) Tighten per
the Fastener and Torque Values section.
***Use a shock pump (p/n 85-4069) to fill the air system to the recommended
levels as outlined in the R7 Fastener and Torque Values.
IT Air System Service Instructions
Removal of IT Air Spring and Travel Adjust Assembly
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
WARNING This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be
relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result
in injury or possible death.
1. Important: You must remove all of the air from the left leg of the fork before
disassembling the IT System. It is advisable to to have the fork inverted and pointed
away from your face, as there may also be a discharge of a mixture of air and oil
when you depress the Schrader valve core (this is similar to the discharge when you
depress the valve core on any of the Manitou Air or SPV forks).
2. On the bottom of the left leg (leg that has the Disk Brakes mounts on it), there is a
Schrader valve protruding from it. Unscrew the valve cap and follow either of these
two methods for releasing all of the air from the system. (See Fig. 1)
3. Depress the valve core and let all of the air out. Now depress the IT lever on the
bike’s handlebar and release it. Once again, depress valve core in the Schrader valve
to release any air in the leg. Do this a couple of times, until all of the air is released.
a.
If you have a helper, have them hold the IT lever on the handlebar down as
you depress the valve core. This will let all of the air out at one time.
4. Now that all of the air is released, Remove the casting:
a. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 12mm wrench to
remove the compression rod nut.
b. From the right leg dropout, remove the rebound knob. Screw the rebound all the
way in (clockwise), remove the 2mm hex screw inside the knob by turning it
counter clockwise. Remove the knob by pulling gently away from the fork.
c. Use a 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper clockwise until it can be pushed into
the casting. (see Fig. 2)
d. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling
firmly on the casting. The fork uses a Semibath Lubrication system, use caution
as the oil that is in the casting will be released when the casting is removed, it is
best to do this over some type of catch pan.
5. Use an Adjustable Wrench and unscrew the black end cap that is threaded into the
bottom of the left inner leg. (See Fig. 3)
6. Pull the lower IT assembly from the inner leg. There may be a small amount of oil that
comes out of the inner leg as you remove the lower IT assembly. This is the
lubricating oil used to allow the air piston on the lower shaft assembly to move freely.
7. Now it is time to remove the IT upper assembly. Release the IT control wire from the
control lever (if attached) by unscrewing the fixing screw on the lever that holds the
cable tight. Use a 2mm Allen Wrench to unscrew this screw and then pull the cable
out of the lever.
8. To remove the upper IT assembly, use a slotted 22mm 6 point socket (P/N: 83-2503),
a 22mm Open End wrench, or an adjustable wrench. Unscrew it by turning counterclockwise. Note: Be aware of the IT control Wire spinning around when
unscrewing the top cap (See Fig. 4)
9. Pull the upper assembly out of the inner leg.
Assembly Instructions
Troubleshooting Tips
** If the fork starts to lose travel from an extended position to a shorter position by itself,
the damage is most likely centered on the Quad ring around the outside of the piston.
O-rings
Fig. 5
**If the fork extends from a shorter travel to a longer travel by itself, the failure can be
involving the smaller Quad ring that is located under the piston on the inside diameter of it
where the shaft of the upper assembly intersects the lower assembly and piston. The
shaft is sealed against leakage at this point to define the two different chambers. (Fig. 5)
Always check two things when you have the system apart.
**Use a straight edge and lay it next to the inner shaft that is attached to the top cap of the
upper assembly to insure that that shaft is not bowed at any point. We found that in the
assembly of these pieces, the shaft is pressed into the top cap and occasionally if it is
over-pressed, the shaft will bow. This means that, where the bow is in the travel of the
shaft, it will cause the Quad ring that it is passing through, to distort. Thus air transfers
from one chamber to the other and the fork will extend by itself. If this is the case, you will
need a new top assembly and an O-ring kit. (Refer to Figure 6)
**Make sure that the valve core in the Schrader valve is tight and does not stick open or
closed. If this is faulty, replace this valve core with a new one. Any bicycle tube valve core
will work, as well as any valve cores that we currently use on any of our other products.
Note: Always replace all o-rings and seals provided in the IT O-ring kit, each time
you take the system apart, this will insure that you receive maximum performance.
Fig. 6
Installation of the IT Control Wire
Fig. 7
1. In order to change the inner control wire, start by following IT disassembly steps 1, 2, 6, 7,
& 8.
2. Once you have the upper assembly out of the fork, use the adjustable wrench and the
12mm Open End wrench to unscrew the top cap from the shaft of the assembly. Refer to
Figure 7 at the right.
3. As you unscrew the top cap, you will feel a little tension created by a spring that is under
the cap. Separate the top cap from the shaft once you have completely unthreaded the
two pieces.
4. Pull on the inner wire in order to remove the machined stopper with the cable end in it
from the shaft.
5. You can now unhook the cable from the stopper and from the cable head end, pull the
cable through the spring, the top cap, and the outer cable housing. Refer to Figure 8 at
the right.
6. Reverse the above steps to replace the cable.
Note: The inner cable can be replaced with a standard bicycle derailleur cable
It is recommended to replace the two O-rings on the stopper each time that it is
removed from the shaft, in addition to the Black Buna O-ring that is on the shaft
below the threads.
Replacement of Piston Quad Rings
Fig. 8
Fig. 10
1. Refer to Figure 10 for wrench placement. Hold the 12mm wrench in place on the flats that
are on the piston seat and turn the piston with the adjustable wrench in a counter
clockwise motion to unscrew the piston from the shaft.
2. Once the piston is off of the shaft, you will see a small Black Quad ring inside the top of
the shaft that you just unscrewed the piston from. Replace this Quad ring with a new one
from IT O-ring kit. Be sure that the new quad seal is seated in the shaft and rests flat
against the shelf inside of the shaft. (Refer to Figure 9)
3. Install the Air Piston back onto the shaft in the reverse of the way you removed it. Tighten
the piston to 15inlbs (1.7Nm) onto the shaft.
4. Remove the large Quad ring on the outside of the piston, Discard this Quad ring and
replace it with a new one. Be careful not to twist it in the groove that it rests in.
Assembly Instructions
Installation of the IT Air Spring and Travel Adjust Assembly
WARNING All leg caps for Damper and Spring systems must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened prior to use.
Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
1. It is recommended that when reassembling the IT system that you start by installing the
lower assembly into the bottom of the inner leg first. Be sure to apply a small amount of
Prep M grease to the Quad ring on the outside of the piston, in the hole in the piston and
onto the threads of the inner leg before inserting the assembly into leg.
2. Twist the shaft assembly as you insert piston past the threads of inner leg. Tighten end
cap to 25-35inlbs (2.8-3.9Nm). It might be necessary to use a socket and extension thru
the top of the fork leg and engage the head on the top of the piston so that you can screw
in the quad seal past the threads in the leg.
3. Put a small amount of Motorex grease on the end of the Upper Assembly shaft, and then
insert the assembly into the fork inner leg.
4.
As soon as contact is made with the hole in the top of the air piston/lower assembly, twist
the upper assembly like screwing in a screw to guide the upper assembly shaft into the
hole without damaging the Quad ring seal in the shaft of the lower assembly.
5. After reinserting the upper assembly into the fork but before screwing the top cap in, pour
about 8-10cc’s of Air Piston Oil (40wt. automotive oil maybe substituted) into the fork leg
through the top of the crown.
6. Torque the top cap to **in/lbs using the slotted 22mm socket.
7. Replace the Outer Casting if it has been removed as follows:
a. Replace the o-ring at the end of the rebound shaft, if not you will risk having a
leak in that area.
b. Extend the rebound damper out from end cap as far as it will go and then slide
bottom out bumper towards the end cap as far as it will go. The bumper will help
to hold the damper shaft in place as you are inserting the inner legs into the
casting.
c. Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject Semi Bath oil (5/40wt.
synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at 45 degree angle to
the ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject 16cc’s of oil into
each outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil.
d. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts
casting. Adjuster hex shaft should protrude slightly from casting.
e. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it
into the casting. (See fig. 11) Tighten per the Schematic and Torque
Specification Table for your fork.
f. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable.
g. Install the compression rod screw and tighten per the Black Schematic and
Torque Specification Table.
8. Feed the inner wire through the cable housing and secure one end of the of the housing
into the gold cable guide, then feed the end of the inner wire through the hole in the black
cable stop on the lever.
9. The inner wire now feeds through the hole in bottom of the lever, over the top of the lever
and through the hole in the back of the lever.
10. Pull the inner wire until there is no slack in the cable. Be sure to set a 2mm gap between
the front of the lever and the top of the cable stop to insure that you have not over
tightened the cable before you tighten the 2mm Allen bolt on the front of the lever to cinch
the inner wire. (Refer to Figure 12)
11. The last step is to cut the inner wire that is left hanging on the backside of the lever and
then installing the cable end to prevent it from fraying.
12. Pressurize the system and check for proper function. It is fastest if you have someone
depress the control lever and hold it while you pump air into the system. This way the
system equalizes immediately. If you do not have a second person to help, just add air to
the system and then periodically depress the lever to equalize the pressure.
Outer Casting Service
There are two different ways that castings are retain on the fork legs, one version is
accessed through the top of the fork legs and the other is accessed on the bottom of the
each casting leg.
Disassembly Instructions for Style 1
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
WARNING This fork uses a preloaded coil spring provide spring
resistance. The spring must be relieved of its preload prior to servicing.
Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
1. Turn spring preload adjuster knob counter clockwise until it stops. Remove 2mm
hex screw on spring preload adjuster knob and remove knob on the top left side of
the fork.
2. Remove preload adjuster using 18mm socket.
3. Remove top leg cap on right hand side using 24mm socket. (Fig. 1)
4. Compress fork and remove the spring, MCU, and top cap assy. If you need to make
a spring rate change separate the individual pieces, change to the required spring
and reassemble.
5. Invert fork and tap on work bench to remove plastic spacer from inside of left inner
leg.
6. Using a ¼ inch drive 4mm hex on an extension or Answer p/n 85-3006, remove the
comp rod screws from inside the bottom of both inner legs. (See Fig 2 and 3)
7. Pull off outer leg from crown/steer assy.
8. To remove compression rods, remove the compression rod clips (slotted washer if
installed) and the black rubber bottom out bumper. Feed the compression rod up
through the inner leg.
9. The rubber fork boots can now be removed from the casting at this time and
replaced if necessary.
Assembly Instructions
1. Remove rubber fork boots from the casting and slide them onto the inner legs of the
crown/steer assy.
2. Lightly grease the bushings on the inside of the outer leg casting and on the lower
portion of the inner legs below the boots using a thick grease such as Motorex Bike
Grease 2000.
3. Reinstall compression rods into the inner legs if necessary.
4. Reinstall the bottomout bumpers and clips.
5. Slide the outer leg onto the crown/steer assy, make sure the arch is facing to the
rear.
6. Using a ¼ inch drive 4mm hex on an extension or Answer p/n 85-3006, tighten the
comp rod screws from inside the bottom of both inner legs. Torque per Fastener
Torque and Setup Levels section.
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression rod bolts must be properly tightened prior to use. Failure to
do so could result in injury or possible death.
Fig 4
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Snap boots over dust seal of outer leg casting.
Install plastic spacer into left inner leg. See Fig. 4 for order.
Grease spring heavily with Motorex Bike Grease 2000.
Extend fork and install the spring preload, MCU, and spring assy.
Tighten preload adjuster using 18mm socket to torque Listed in Fastener and Setup
Levels section.
12. Install preload adjuster knob using 2mm hex screw.
Disassembly Instructions for Style 2
Fig. 5
1. From the left leg dropout (Left when sitting on the bike), use a 10 or 11mm wrench to
remove the compression rod screw.
2. From the right leg dropout, if the fork has adjustable rebound, the knob will need to be
removed. Screw the rebound all the way in (clockwise) remove the 2mm hex screw
inside the knob by turning it counter clockwise. Remove the knob by pulling gently
away from the fork.
3. Use a 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper clockwise until it can be pushed into the
casting. (see Fig. 5)
4. Remove crown/steer/inner leg assembly from the outer leg casting by pulling firmly on
the casting. If the fork uses the Semibath Lubrication system, use caution as the oil
that is in the casting will be released when the casting is removed, it is best to do this
over some type of catch pan.
Assembly Instructions
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
WARNING When installing the outer Leg Casting to the Crown Steer Assy,
Compression Rod bolts and Damper Shafts must be properly tightened
prior to use. Failure to do so could result in injury or possible death.
1. Turn completed crown/steer/leg assembly upside down, so that the compression rod and
damper shaft are facing you. You will see a bottom out bumper on the damper shaft; slide
this bumper down towards the end cap that is threaded into the inner leg. This will help in
keeping the shaft extended as you install the outer casting. You could also insert air into
the damper leg through the Schrader valve on top of the right leg (SPV models). This
extra pressure will help to keep the shaft from moving. (See Fig. 6)
2. Replace the o-ring at the end of the rebound shaft, if not you will risk having an oil leak in
that area. (See Fig. 7) There are 2 styles of o-ring which are used, be sure to replace with
a matching o-ring. (See Fig. 8)
3. Extend the rebound damper out from end cap as far as it will go and then slide bottom out
bumper towards the end cap as far as it will go. The bumper will help to hold the damper
shaft in place as you are inserting the inner legs into the casting.
4. For Grease Forks - Remove rubber fork boots from the casting and slide them onto the
inner legs of the crown/steer assy. Lightly grease the bushings on the inside of the outer
leg casting and on the lower portion of the inner legs below the boots using a thick grease
such as Motorex Bike Grease 2000. Proceed to Step 6.
5. For Semibath Forks - Press inner legs into casting about half way and then inject Semi
Bath oil (5/40wt. synthetic oil, P/N: 85-0022) into outer casting, holding fork at 45 degree
angle to the ground with bottom of fork in the air (drop outs up). Inject 16cc’s of oil into
each outer leg. It is recommended to use a syringe to inject oil. (See Fig. 9)
6. Press inner leg assembly into outer leg casting until damper shaft contacts casting.
Adjuster hex shaft should protrude slightly from casting.
7. Use an 8mm hex wrench to turn the damper shaft counterclockwise, threading it into the
casting. Tighten per the Schematic and Torque Specification Table for your fork.
8. Install rebound adjuster knob if applicable.
9. Install the compression rod screw and tighten per the Black Schematic and Torque
Specification Table.
10. For forks with the Wind Down system: follow steps 2 – 5 from the Wind Down Travel
Adjust assembly instructions.
Use: 8mm Allen wrench, 2mm Allen wrench, 11mm Nut Driver or open end wrench,
Syringe for Semi Bath Oil, Air pump
Fig. 10
32mm Leg Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle
Instructions
Standard Hex Thru Axle
Removal Instructions
Removal of Hex Thru Axle
Fig. 1
1.
2.
3.
4.
Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the right fork leg. (See Fig. 1)
Remove the Thru Axle nut from the right side of the Thru axle.
Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the left fork leg.
Push the Hex Thru Axle out of the dropouts from left to right and completely
remove it and the front wheel from the fork.
Assembly Instructions
Installation of Hex Thru Axle
1.
Fig. 2
2.
3.
C
4.
5.
B
6.
A
7.
Fig. 3
8.
Insert the Clamp Nuts (See Fig.3 – A) into the small hexagonal hole in each of
the dropouts.
Insert 2 Spacer/Washers p/n 062876 (See Fig.3 – B) in the slot of each
dropout. (See Fig. 4)
Start two clamp fixing bolts (See Fig.3 – C) in each dropout. Do not tighten
these bolts down at this time.
Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.
Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left drop out (as you
are facing fork) and push it through the hub of the wheel, and into the right
drop out.
Thread the Thru Axle nut into the end of the axle that is in the right drop out.
Thread the Thru Axle Nut in about half way in; do NOT tighten it down fully.
Set the end of the axle flush with the outside of the left drop out. Tighten the
3mm clamp fixing bolts to specified torque value as called out in the Schematic
and Technical Specification Chart at the end of manual.
Finish the installation by tightening axle nut to specified torque value and then
tighten the clamp fixing bolts on the right drop out to the specified torque.
(See Fig. *)
Quick Release Hex Thru Axle
Removal of the QR Thru Axle
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
1. Pull down on the QR lever on the right fork leg to relieve the tension on that fork
leg. Fig. 5 shows the QR Lever in the open position.
2. Unscrew the QR Axle Bolt on the right hand side of the fork.
3. Pull down on the QR lever on the left fork leg to relieve the tension on that fork
leg.
4. Unless you need to replace a component of the QR system, do not proceed
further.
5. Remove the bolt in the center of the Pivot Cylinder of the QR Lever.
6. Remove the Pivot Cylinder from the Lever.
7. Remove the Shim, Adapter, spring and Hex Nut from each fork leg.
8. Inspect all parts for wear. If any parts show signs of wear, replace all
components on the side as a system. Mixing new and used parts will result in
accelerated wear when the parts are reassembled.
32mm Leg Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle
Instructions
G
Assembly Instructions
F
H
E
D
C
B
A
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
1. Install a Spacer/Washer p/n 062876 (See Fig 6–B) into the slot in the right drop
out.
1. Install spring p/n 069641 (See Fig.6-C) into counter bore of the right drop out of
the casting.
2. Install a Hexagonal Nut p/n 066484 (See Fig.6-A) into the small hexagonal hole
in the drop out of the fork leg. (See Fig. 7)
3. Place an adapter p/n 066487 (See Fig.6-D) on top of spring; the adapter is
symmetrical so its orientation is not critical. Place a shim p/n 069647 (See
Fig.6-E ) on top of adapter. (see Fig. 8)
4. Install pivot cylinder p/n 066479 (See Fig.6-F) into the bore of the QR Lever p/n
066490 (See Fig.6-G).
5. Install an M5x32 bolt p/n 069638 (See Fig.6-H) through the hole in the pivot
cylinder that you installed in the QR Lever. The bolt head must sit in counter
bore in the Pivot Cylinder.
6. Insert the M5x32 bolt through the shim, adapter and the spacer/washer and
screw it into hexagonal nut in the drop out. The QR Lever should be oriented so
that in the closed position it points up to the top of the casting. DO NOT tighten
the bolt at this time. Make sure that the bolt is inserted through the
spacer/washer, in the slot in the drop out, as they can slid around during
assembly. (See Fig. 9)
7. Insert the Hex axle p/n 064590 into the casting, from left to right, starting with
the end that has the small hex first.
8. Apply Grease to threads of Axle Bolt p/n 066471 and hand screw it into the Hex
Axle, but only screw it in a few threads, do not tighten the Axle Bolt yet.
9. Make sure right lever is in closed position, as shown below. The torque setting
on the QR Lever Bolt is: 30-40 lb-in [3,39-4,51 N-m] You want to use the lowest
torque possible and still retain the axle properly:
a. Start by first torquing the QR Lever Bolt to 30 lb-in [3.39 N-m].
b. Open the lever and then close it, check for smooth operation of the
lever and if the axle is properly retained.
c. If it is possible to move the axle side to side, close the lever and
increase the torque on the bolt by 2.5 in/lbs. and retry the lever
d. Repeat the steps above until you achieve proper operation of the Quick
Release.
Fig. 8
10.
11.
12.
13.
Fig. 9
14.
15.
16.
17.
Repeat # 1-10 for the other side of the casting.
Remove the Axle Bolt and the Hex Axle
Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.
Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left drop out (as you
are facing fork) and push it through the hub of the wheel, and into the right drop
out.
Thread the Axle Bolt into the end of the axle that is in the right drop out. Thread
the Axle Bolt in about half way; do NOT tighten it down fully.
Set the end of the axle flush with the outside of the left drop out. Tighten the QR
on the left fork leg.
Hand tighten the Axle bolt on the right side drop out.
Finish the installation by tightening the quick release on the right fork leg.
Travis Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle Instructions
Standard Hex Thru Axle
Removal Instructions
Removal of Hex Thru Axle
1.
2.
3.
4.
Fig. 1
Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the right fork leg.
Remove the Thru Axle nut from the right side of the Thru axle.
Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the left fork leg.
Push the Hex Thru Axle out of the dropouts from left to right and completely
remove it and the front wheel from the fork.
5. Check for any cracks around the Axle bearing area on the Outer Casting. If there
are any found, replace the casting.
Assembly Instructions
Installation of Hex Thru Axle
1.
2.
3.
Fig. 2
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Fig. 3
Insert the Clamp Nuts into the small hexagonal hole in each of the dropouts.
Insert a Spacer/Washer (062876) in the slot of each dropout.
Start two clamp fixing bolts in each dropout. Do not tighten these bolts down at
this time.
Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.
Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left drop out (as you
are facing fork) and push it through the hub of the wheel, and into the right drop
out.
Thread the Thru Axle nut into the end of the axle that is in the right drop out.
Thread the Thru Axle Nut in about half way in; do NOT tighten it down fully.
Set the end of the axle flush with the outside of the left drop out. Tighten the 3mm
clamp fixing bolts to specified torque value as called out in the Schematic and
Technical Specification Chart at the end of manual.
Finish the installation by tightening axle nut to specified torque value and then
tighten the clamp fixing bolts on the right drop out to the specified torque.
(See Fig. *)
Quick Release Hex Thru Axle
Removal of the QR Thru Axle
Fig. 4
1. Pull down on the QR lever on the right fork leg to relieve the tension on that fork
leg.
2. Unscrew the QR Axle Bolt on the right hand side of the fork.
3. Pull down on the QR lever on the left fork leg to relieve the tension on that fork
leg.
4. Unless you need to replace a component of the QR system, do not proceed
further.
5. Remove the bolt in the center of the Pivot Cylinder of the QR Lever.
6. Remove the Pivot Cylinder from the Lever.
7. Remove the Shim and Hex Nut from each fork leg.
8. Inspect all parts for wear. If any parts show signs of wear, replace all components
on the side as a system. Mixing new and used parts will result in accelerated
wear when the parts are reassembled.
9. Inspect for any cracks around the Axle bearing area on the Outer Casting. If there
are any found replace, the casting.
Travis Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle Instructions
Assembly Instructions
D
E
C
B
A
Fig. 5
1. Install a Spacer/Washer (p/n 062876) into the slot in the right drop out.
2. Install a Hexagonal Nut p/n 066484 (See Fig.5-A) into the small hexagonal hole
in the drop out of the right fork leg.
3. Place a shim p/n 066488 (See Fig.5-B) on top of drop out in the semicircular area.
(See Fig.6)
4. Install pivot cylinder p/n 066479 (Fig.5-C) into the bore of the QR Lever p/n
066490 (See Fig.5-D).
5. Install an M5x32 bolt p/n 069638 (See Fig.5-E) through the hole in the pivot
cylinder that you installed in the QR Lever. The bolt head must sit in counter bore
in the Pivot Cylinder. (See Fig. 7)
6. Insert the M5x32 bolt through the shim, and the spacer/washer and screw it into
hexagonal nut in the drop out. The QR Lever should be oriented so that in the
closed position it points up to the top of the casting. DO NOT tighten the bolt at
this time. Make sure that the bolt is inserted through the spacer/washer, in the slot
in the drop out, as they can slid around during assembly. (See Fig. 8)
7. Insert the Hex axle (p/n 069635) into the casting, from left to right, starting with
the end that has the small hex first.
8. Apply Grease to threads of Axle Bolt (p/n 066471) and hand screw it into the Hex
Axle, but only screw it in a few threads, do not tighten the Axle Bolt yet.
9. Make sure right lever is in closed position, as shown. The torque setting on the
QR Lever Bolt is: 30-40 lb-in [3,39-4,51 N-m] You want to use the lowest torque
possible and still retain the axle properly:
Fig. 6
a. Start by first torquing the QR Lever Bolt to 30 lb-in [3.39 N-m].
b. Open the lever and then close it, check for smooth operation of the lever
and if the axle is properly retained.
c. If it is possible to move the axle side to side, close the lever and increase
the torque on the bolt by 2.5 in/lbs. and retry the lever
d. Repeat the steps above until you achieve proper operation of the Quick
Release.
Fig. 7
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Fig. 8
16.
17.
Repeat # 1-10 for the other side of the casting.
Remove the Axle Bolt and the Hex Axle
Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.
Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left drop out (as you are
facing fork) and push it through the hub of the wheel, and into the right drop out.
Thread the Axle Bolt into the end of the axle that is in the right drop out. Thread
the Axle Bolt about half way in, DO NOT tighten it down fully.
Set the end of the axle flush with the outside of the left drop out. Tighten the QR
on the left fork leg.
Hand tighten the Axle bolt on the right side drop out.
Finish the installation by tightening the quick release on the right fork leg.
Manitou Fork Technical Information
2006 Oil Levels
Oil Level
Minimum
Platform
Empire
Axel/Trace
Splice
R7
Black
Minute
Nixon
Gold Label
Stance
Travis
Damping
System
FFD
FFD/Lockout
Remote Lockout
FFD and
TPC/Lockout
Remote Lockout
Platform+
FFD
Platform +
TPC/Lockout
Snap Valve SPV
Remote L/O
FFD & TPC
Lockout
Platform+
SPV
Remote L/O
Platform+
TPC Lockout
SPV
SPV
CTPC+
CID
FFD
FFD / Single
Crown
TPC+ / Dual
Crown
CTPC+ / Single
Crown
CTPC+ / Single
Crown
CTPC+ / Single
Crown
CTPC+/ Dual
Crown
CTPC+/ Dual
Crown
CID All Models
Travel
Maximum
Inches
4.3
4.3
4.1
MM
110
110
104
Inches
4.9
4.9
4.7
MM
125
125
119
80 or 100
4.3
4.1
2.9
4.3
2.9
4.3
4.2
4.1
110
104
73
110
73
110
108
104
4.9
4.7
3.4
4.9
3.4
4.9
4.8
4.7
125
119
88
125
88
125
123
119
80, 100, 120 or
RTWD
80, 100 or 120
80, 100 or 120
80, 100 or 120
100, 130
100/130 RTWD
100, 130
130mm IT TA
145
145mm IT TA
80, 100
4.5
2.9
2.7
4.1
3.1
3.5
3.0
3.3
3.7
*Full
4.3
115
73
68
104
80
90
75
85
95
*Full
110
4.9
3.4
2.8
4.7
3.3
3.7
3.1
3.5
3.9
*Full
4.5
125
88
72
119
85
95
80
90
100
*Full
115
All Travels
3.3
85
3.7
95
150 or 170
8.7
220
9.4
240
150
3.7
95
3.9
100
180
4.3
110
4.5
115
203
4.9
125
5.1
130
180
4.3
110
4.5
115
203
180 or 203
5.5
*Full
140
*Full
5.7
*Full
145
*Full
60 or 75
80, 100 or 120
80, 100 or 120
80, 100 or 120
80, 100 or 120
80, 100 or 120
80 or 100
80 or 100
80 or 100
80 or 100
*Consult the 2006 Service Manual Cartridge Damping Section for correct full damper bleed process.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Symptom
Air Loss
Oil leaks from
Wiper Seals
Oil leaks from
bottom of
Casting
Lack of Travel
Cause
Solution
Schrader Valve leaks
Tighten Valve core, replace bad parts as
needed.
Air Cap O-ring leaks
Make sure O-ring is seated properly,
replace parts as needed.
Air Piston leaks
Check oil volume on top of piston, replace
parts as needed.
Air Top Cap leaks
Check O-ring, tighten cap to proper
Torque, replace parts as needed.
Seal not seated properly
Remove Casting from Inner Legs, reinstall
or replace seals
Nicks or scratches on
inner legs
Replace Crown/Steerer/Inner Leg
Assembly
Too much Semi Bath oil
Follow instructions for removal and
installation of Outer Casting
Wear
Remove Casting from Inner Legs, reinstall
or replace seals
Rebound damper shaft
leaks
Replace Rebound Damping assembly
Rebound damper shaft Oring damaged
Replace O-ring on threaded end of
Rebound Damping assembly
Compression Rod Bolt
leaks
Check O-ring on bolt to see if it is
damaged and then reinstall
Tight Bushings
Hydraulic lock out
Resize bushings or replace with new ones
if damaged
Replace Rebound Damping assembly
Semi Bath oil volume
Follow instructions for removal and
installation of Outer Casting
Damper oil volume
Check oil level, Replace Rebound
Damping assembly if needed
Fork alignment
Visually inspect fork, call Answer
Products Customer Service
Service
Manual
Section
1
TROUBLESHOOTING (CONT.)
Symptom
Cause
Fork Top out
Loss of Rebound
Damping
Replace Rebound Damping assembly
Top out spring damaged
Inspect and replace Top out spring if
needed.
Damping oil volume not
correct
Check oil level, Replace Rebound
Damping assembly if needed
Too much SAG
Refer to SAG Set up in Tuning section of
Owners Manual
Bottom out Bumper
damaged
Inspect and replace Bottom out Bumper if
needed
Damping oil volume not
correct
Check oil level, Replace Rebound
Damping assembly if needed
Loose bushings
Resize bushings or replace with new
ones if damaged
Loose Compression Rod
bolt
Tighten bolt to specified torque
Loose Rebound damping
shaft
Tighten Shaft to specified torque
Loose press fit tolerances
Call Answer Products Customer Service
Various
See Air Assist Troubleshooting Guide
Various
See Lock Out Troubleshooting
Various
See Remote Lockout Section
Fork Bottom
out
Play in Fork
Air Assist
Problems
Lock Out
Problems
Remote
Lockout
Problems
Solution
Service
Manual
Page
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