Installation and Troubleshooting Guide

All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited .

CDI P/N: 133-3853

Note: This unit replaces P/Ns: 583853, 584363, 763774.

WARNING! This product is designed to be installed by a professional marine mechanic. CDI Electronics cannot be held liable for injury or damage resulting from improper installation, abuse, neglect or misuse of this product.

INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the Negative battery cable.

2. Remove the power pack.

3. Disconnect the old Timer Base.

4. Remove the flywheel, stator and old Timer Base.

5. Lubricate the inside area of the new Timer Base where the White slip ring goes and the area where the inside of the new Timer Base contacts the upper bearing carrier.

6. Install the White slip ring on the new Timer Base.

7. Compress the White slip ring and seat the new Timer Base into the bearing carrier.

8. Make sure the Timer Base is fully seated and secure the slip ring using the retainers removed during disassembly.

9. Remove the bushing link kit from the old Timer Base link arm and install it in the new Timer Base arm.

10. Connect the linkage to the new Timer Base.

11. Re-install the Stator and Flywheel according to the Service Manual.

12. Start and run the engine, adjusting the ignition timing according to the Service Manual. Remember to allow the engine to warm up before adjusting the timing.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Service Note: Please use the Factory recommended spark plug (currently Champion QL77JC4) gapped at 0.030”.

Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark.

ENGINE WILL NOT START OR MISFIRES:

Verify the wiring in the connectors as follows:

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

NOTE: These engines use a gear reduction starter which results in a lower cranking RPM than usual. If you have one or more cylinders intermittent at cranking: Try starting the engine and checking to see if ALL of the cylinders now fire correctly. If so, the engine’s ignition should be good. Make sure the battery is sized correctly as the cranking capacity can affect the cranking speed.

1. Disconnect both of the black/yellow kill wires FROM THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color

Brown

Brown/Black

Orange

White

White

White

White

Check to Wire Color

Brown/Yellow (1 st

Pair) (b)

Brown/White (2nd Pair) (b)

Orange/Black

Purple

Blue

Green

Purple 2 nd

connector

Resistance

850-1100

850-1100

93-103

(a)

(a)

(a)

(a)

DVA Reading

(CONNECTED)

DVA

(DISCONNECTED)

150V +

150V +

12-24V

0.6V +

0.6V +

0.6V +

0.6V +

170V +

170V +

45V +

CDI Electronics

•

353 James Record Road SW

•

Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.

cdielectronics.com

•

Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832

•

Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371

All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev B

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1/08/13 Page - 1 of 3 QF-319

Installation and Troubleshooting Guide

All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited .

Wire Color

White

White

White

Check to Wire Color

Blue 2

Green 2 nd nd

connector

connector

Black/White 2 nd

connector

Resistance

(a)

(a)

215-225

DVA Reading

0.6V +

0.6V +

(CONNECTED) DVA (DISCONNECTED)

5 V + Connected @ cranking, 8-14V Running

Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. Remember that temperature will affect the readings. The exception would be if one of the scr’s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected. a) Wires must be paired correctly. If the wires are crossed between pairs, the resulting feedback can damage the power pack.

4. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel. A loose or broken magnet can cause this problem.

5. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. This can be caused by a weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables or a mechanical problem inside the engine.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the timer base’s resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad.

3. Check the power pack resistance given below:

Wire Color

Orange/Blue

(CYL)

(#1)

Check to Wire Color

Blue (in male 4 pin connector with White wire)

Orange (#3)

Orange/Green (#5)

Purple (in male 4 pin connector with White wire)

Green (in male 4 pin connector with White wire)

Orange/Blue (#2)

Orange (#4)

Orange/Green (#6)

Blue (in female 4 pin connector with Black/White wire)

Purple (in female 4 pin connector with Black/White wire)

Green (in female 4 pin connector with Black/White wire)

White

Brown’S (ALL)

Black (Engine Ground)

Black (Engine Ground)

Resistance

110 (a)

110 (a)

110 (a)

110 (a)

110 (a)

110 (a)

Shorted

Open or M range

(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 90 to 150 ohms.

You should have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests. If one of the SCR’s inside the power pack is shorted or open, the readings will be quite a bit different.

4. Check the spark plug wires for breaks and abrasions.

ENGINE DIES WHEN QUICKSTART DROPS OUT:

Check ignition timing at idle with the White/Black temperature wire disconnected. Remember to allow for the 12-15 Degree drop in ignition timing when Quick Start disengages. Verify ignition timing after engine has warmed up, according to the service manual.

ENGINE WILL NOT STAY IN QUICKSTART OVER 10 SECONDS:

1. Verify the engine temperature is below the trip point (89 degrees on some engines and 104 degrees on others) of the temperature switch.

2. Disconnect the White/Black Temperature Switch wire FROM the Port Temperature Switch. If the engine now stays in QuickStart, the Temperature Switch is likely defective.

ENGINE STAYS IN QUICKSTART ON ALL CYLINDERS:

1. With the engine idling, check the Yellow/Red wire for DC voltage. If there is DC voltage on this wire while the engine is running, the

Quick-Start will not disengage. A voltage over 1.5 volts but less than 7 volts will not engage the starter solenoid, yet will engage

Quick-Start.

2. Short the White/Black Temperature Switch wire FROM the power pack to engine ground. Start the engine, if the Quick Start drops out after approximately 5 seconds, replace the White/Black Temperature Switch.

3. Disconnect the Black/White wire between the power pack and the Timer Base. If the Quick-Start feature is not now working, replace the power pack.

ENGINE DROPS OUT AND BACK IN QUICKSTART AT IDLE:

1. With the engine idling, check the Yellow/Red wire for DC voltage. Intermittent DC voltage on this wire while the engine is running will re-engage Quick-Start. A voltage of less than 7 volts will not engage the starter solenoid, yet will engage Quick-Start.

2. With the engine idling, disconnect the Black/White wire from the power pack and short the White/Black Temperature Switch wire

FROM the power pack to engine ground. If the Quick Start drops out and stays out after approximately 5 seconds, replace the

White/Black Temperature Switch. If the problem is still present, replace the power pack.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:

1. Disconnect both of the black/yellow kill wires FROM THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

CDI Electronics

•

353 James Record Road SW

•

Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.

cdielectronics.com

•

Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832

•

Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371

All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev B

•

1/08/13 Page - 2 of 3 QF-319

Installation and Troubleshooting Guide

All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited .

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color

Brown

Check to Wire Color

Brown/Yellow (1 st

Pair) (b)

Resistance

850-1100

DVA Reading

150V + Connected, 170V + Disconnected

Brown/Black

Orange

White

White

Brown/White (2nd Pair) (b)

Orange/Black

Purple

Blue

850-1100

93-103

(a)

(a)

150V + Connected, 170V + Disconnected

12-24V Connected, over 45V Disconnected

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected

White

White

White

White

White

Green

Purple 2 nd

connector

Blue 2

Green 2 nd nd

connector

connector

Black/White 2 nd

connector

(a)

(a)

(a)

(a)

215-225

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected

6-10 V Connected @ cranking, 6-10 V Running

With engine temp below 90 degrees. a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good.

Remember that temperature will affect the readings. The exception would be if one of the scr’s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected. b) Wires must be paired correctly. If the wires are crossed between pairs, the resulting feedback will destroy the power pack.

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. This can be caused by a weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables or a mechanical problem inside the engine.

5. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM (Runs smooth below that RPM):

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

3. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, the temperature switch, VRO switch or engine harness is likely defective.

4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the VRO or sensor.

ENGINE ENGAGES S.L.O.W. (Limits at 2500 PM) WHEN THE NO OIL, LOW OIL OR FUEL VACUUM ALARM

SOUNDS:

1.

Disconnect engine harness.

2.

Disconnect the Tan wires from the temperature sensors in both cylinder heads.

3.

Using an VOM Meter, check the diode in the engine harness as follows:

Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead

Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector Tan Lead From Port Cyl Head

Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector Tan Lead From Stbd Cyl Head

Tan Lead From Stbd Cyl Head Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector

Reading

0.500 (approximately)

OL or over 1.0

0.500 (approximately)

Tan Lead From Port Cyl Head Tan pin in Engine Harness Connector OL or over 1.0

NOTE: You can replace the diode in the harness with a 1N4007 diode available at most electronics stores.

CDI Electronics

•

353 James Record Road SW

•

Huntsville, AL 35824

Web Support: www.

cdielectronics.com

•

Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832

•

Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371

All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, Inc., is prohibited.

Rev B

•

1/08/13 Page - 3 of 3 QF-319