Husqvarna 2100 Workshop Manual


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Husqvarna 2100 Workshop Manual | Manualzz

For Husqvarna Parts Call 606-678-9623 or 606-561-4983

Workshop manual chain saw model

2100

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101 88 01-26

For Husqvarna Parts Call 606-678-9623 or 606-561-4983

Contents

TechnicalSpecification

ServiceData

SpecialTools

Fuelsystem,Carburet&or

Electricsystem

Lubricatingsystem,Oil pump

Crankcase,

Crankshaft

Starter

Centrifugal

Clutch

Safety Equipment

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TechnicalSpecificationn

Displacement

Bore

Stroke

Ignitionsystem

Ignitionadvance

Sparkplug

Electrodegap

Carburetor

Fueltankvolume

Oiltankvolume

Chainlubrication

Clutchdrum/sprocket

Weights

99 cm3 (6 cu in)

56.0 mm (2.20”)

40.0 mm (1.57”)

Electronic. Make SEM type GA 1.

24° before t.d.c. at 133 r/s (8,000 r/rein)

BoschWSR 8F

0.5 mm (0.020”)

Diaphragm carburetor. Make Tillotson type HS

136C with speedgovernor 0.070”.

Basicsetting:

H = 1.0

L = 1.2

1.0 Iitre (0.26 US gallon, 0.22 Imp gallon).

Fuel mixture 4% (1 :25).

With HusqvarnaTwostroke Oil 2% (1 :50).

0.65 Iitres (0.17 US gallon, 0.14 Imp gallon).

Two separatelubrication systems:

Automatic

No supply during idling. Adjustable for two different delivery rates:

Bar 15“ 21”: Position I

Bar 21” and more: Position I I

Manual

Hand-operated pump on the left side of the rear handle.

Standard:

7 teeth, 0.404” Pitch.

Optional:

8 teeth, 3/8” Pitch.

1. Weight sawbody (empty)

2. Weight sawbody (empty) incl. 24”

8.0 kg (17.6 lb) bar and chain (Oregon 52L - 76E 0.404 ’’).10.2 kg (22.5 lb)

3. Same as 2 however with full tanks._

11.4 kg (25.1 lb)

1:1

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2100

TechnicalSpecificationEl

Cylinder class

A

:

Piston class

A

:

PLEASE NOTE!

As “A” denotes smallest cylinder diameter and “C” the largest, piston grades should be matched or one grade smaller. E g it is not permissible to use a grade B piston in a grade A cylinder.

Fig 1:1

1:2

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ServiceData !2

CrankcaseAssy

Vacuum: 0.04 MPa (0.4 kp/cm2, 5.7 psi)

Max. leakage:0.01 MPa/1 min (0.1 kp/cm2,

1.4 psi, per rein)

TooIs: 5025037-01 Vacuum gauge

5025081-01 Cover plate, exhaust port

5025047-01 Cover plate, inlet port

Fig 2:1

Pressure:0.08 MPa (0.8 kp/cm2, 11.4 psi)

Max. leakage: 0.02 MPa/30 sec (0.2 kp/cm2,

2.8 psi, per 30 see)

Tools: 5025038-01 Pressuregauge

5025081-01 Cover plate, exhaust port

5025047-01 Cover plate, inlet port

Fig 2:2

Fueltank

Pressure: 0.05 MPa (0.5 kp/cm2, 7.1 psi)

Leakage: No leakagepermitted.

Tool: 5025038-01 Pressuregauge

Fig 2:3

Carburetor

Pressure:0.03 MPa (0.3 kp/cm2, 4.3 psi)

Leakage:No leakagepermitted

Tool: 5025038-01 Pressuregauge

2:1

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ServiceData a

Oil pump

Pressure:0.3 MPa (3 kp/cm2, 42.7 psi)

Pump capacity at 6,000 r/rein:

Pos 1: approx 16-18 ml/min (0.98-1 .10 cu in/rein)

Pos 2: approx 22-24 ml/min (’

.34-1 .46 cu in;min)

Tools: 5025085-01 Oil pump

Grad. measuringglass.

ester

Fig 2:5

Starter

Make sure that it is possibleto turn the pulley at least 1/2 turn further when the cord is pulled out completely.

2:2

Fig 2:6

Fuelandoil

The twostroke engine is lubricated by oil mixed with petrol in various proportions depending on the type of oil used:

“Pre-mixed” oil

Ordinary twostroke oil

1:20 (5% oil)

1:25 (4% oil)

HusqvarnaTwostroke Oil 1 :50 (2% oil)

See also the mixing table below:

Fig 2:7

Mixing table

Mixing table 2%

4%

I

5%

Litres Pints of oil of oil

Litres Petrol in Petrol in of petrol Imp gallon US gallon

Litres Petrol in Petrol in Litres Petrol in Petrol in of petrol Imp gallon US gallon of petrol Imp gallon US gallon

I

0.2

0.4

1.0

0.35

0.70

1.76

10

20

50

2.2

4.4

11.0

2.6

5.2

13.2

5

10

25

1.1

2.2

5.5

1.3

2.6

6.6

4

0.8

1.0

I

8 1.7

2.1

I

20 4.4

5.2

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SpecialTools El

5025006-01

Assemblingpliers

(spark plug protector)

5025030-01

Fitting tool compl. for crankshaft

5025007-01

Assemblingpliers

(cable grommet)

5025018-01 NV 4 mm

5025019-01 NV 3 mm

5025057-01 NV 3/16”

Allen key

P

I@

T

NV

5025020-01 (M5)

Stud fitting tool

-..~”-

5025022-01 NV 8 mm

5025023-01 NV 10 mm

Socket spanner

5025033-01

Piston stop

5025036-01

Revolution counter

5025037-01

Vacuum gauge,compl.

5025038-01

Pressuregauge,compl.

5025024-01

Spanner,clutch centre

2062372-11

TV

5027002-01

-.

282 0008-~1

B’

-.

‘ d

5025025.01

(compl.)

2024294-45

2024332-55

2024297-55

2024333-55

5025025-01

Holding bar compl.

5025026-01

Puller compl. with screw

5025042-01

Lithium grease250 g

(0.55 lb)

5025045-01

Distance sleeve (35 mm)

5025047-01

Cover plate, inlet port

3:1

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3:2

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SpecialTools B

4

1!s

5025049-01

Assemblingpliers

(centrifugal clutch)

-01 for elec-

5025070-01

5025070-01

Piston mounting set, compl.

5025051-01

Cable clip pliers

5025052-01

Fitting sleevefor sealingring

5025081-01

Cover plate, exhaust port

\ o

Q

\/

6

5025082-01

Fitting drift (sealingring)

5025083-01

Hook for oil filter

5025062-01

Fitting tool (manual pump)

5025084-01

Electrotester

5025066-01 NV 22 mm

U-spannerfor vibration damper

5025069-01

Fitting drift

(piston pin)

5025085-01

Oil pump tester, compl.

5025086-01 NV 3 mm

5025087-01 NV 4 mm

Allen screwdriverwith ball

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SpecialTools El

502

5025090-01

Jet-Pac spray gun compl.

incl. retouch paint

5025091-01

Retouch paint, orange,

1/8 I

5025092-01

Pressurepack for Jet-Pac

5025101-01

Extractor (sealingring)

5025102-01

Clamping device

5025106-01

Glue, adhesive

5025107-01

Glue, epoxy

5025108-01

Loctite AA (normal locking power)

5025109-01

Loctite AAV (strong locking power)

5025124-01

SEM electric system tester

3:3

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2100

Fuelsystem V

Removalof carlxwettor

Remove carburetor cover, pre-filter, air filter, cylinder cover and fuel hose.

Remove the throttle push rod from the plastic lever with a pair of flat hose pliers.

Fig 4:3

Drill a small hole in the welch plugs (aPProx. @ 2 mm) and prise away the plugs by meansof a pointed tool.

Fig 4:1

Loosen the socket head screwsthat retain the carburetor (usethe Allen key No. 502501 8-01).

Remove screws,air filter elbow and carburetor.

Clean the carburetor on the outside.

Fig 4:4

IVOTE!

Drill with care in order not to damage the carburetor housing.

Fig 4:2

Remove the metering diaphragm cover and the metering diaphragm.

Note that the centre pin of the diaphragm enters the forked end of the lever of the needle valve.

Connect the pressuregauge5025038-01 to the fuel inlet of the carburetor and pump until a pressureof 0.03 MPa (0.3 kp/cm2 ) is reached.

Check for any leakageat the needle valve or at the gasketon the pump side.

The easiestway of locating leakagesis to pour some petrol where you suspectthe leakagesto be.

Loosen the screw that retains the bearing shaft of the lever and remove lever, shaft, spring and needle valve (seefig. 4:3).

Fig 4:5

Unscrew the two adjusting needles. Remove the cover above the pump diaphragm and remove diaphragm and gasket. Lift off the fuel screencarefully by meansof a pointed tool.

4:1

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Fuelsystem

A

G

Speed governor

The purpose of the governor is to limit the engine speed in order to protect vital parts Iike the crankshaft and ignition system from excessivestresses.We

therefore advisemost strongly againstany interference designedto render it inoperative.

When the saw is run under no-load conditions, the engine speed is limited to 10,500 r/rein as the governor comes into operation.

312 w

I

Carburetorcheck

A. Pumping section

Clean the fuel screenand -lines with compressed air.

Check the gasketand the pump diaphragm for damageor wear.

B. Metering section

Check that the adjusting needlesare straight and that their tapered ends are not damaged. Check the

4+

4

3

Fig 4.6

1.

Steel ball. 2. Spring. 3. Fuel inlet. 4. Fuel outlet.

The steel ball and spring in the governor are so devised that vibrations in the carburetor at a certain engine speedcausethe steel ball to open the fuel outlet. An excessivelyrich mixture is then obtained and the engine beginsto four-stroke, the speed drops and the vibrations decrease.The steel ball then closesthe outlet, the engine speed increases and the processis repeated.

Removalof speed governor

Remove the screw for the choke flap. Pull out the flap approx. 7 mm and push out the choke shaft approx. 5 mm. Remove the speedgovernor with a suitable screw driver.

Fig 4:8

gasketand the metering diaphragm for damageor wear. Check with particular care the wear on the centre pin of the diaphragm.

Fig 4:9

Check that the needle valve is not worn, neither on its seat, nor in the groove for the lever.

Fig 4:7

4:2

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Fuelsystem

A

G

Assembly

A. Pumping section

Locate the fuel screencarefully in its seating (see fig. 4:5). Locate the pump diaphragm next to the carburetor housingand then add gasketand cover.

Tighten the screwsof the cover diagonally and evenly.

fi—

Fig 4:10

Check that the needle valve lever is not worn, neither at the connection to the valve, nor to the metering diaphragm.

Check that the filter screennear the main jet is not dirty or damaged.

C. Mixing section

Clean all fuel lines and jets with compressedair.

D. Speed governor

The speedgovernor is easily checked by meansof the pressuregaugeNo. 5025038-01.

B. Metering section

Fit new welch plugs. Install them with a suitable drift:

for the big plug: drift 08 mm for the small plug: drift @ 4 mm

NOTE!

Do not press in the plugs so that they bulge inwards!

Fig 4:1 1

Connect the pressuregaugeas shown in fig. 4:11.

Check that the hose does not cover the two holes near the thread.

The valve should be tight, which meansno “hiss sound” at a pressurebelow 0.10 MPa (1 kp/cm2 ).

In caseof leakage,the valve should be replaced.

I

The carburetor spare part kit hasgot No.

5015467-01.

I

4

Fig 4:13

Mount the needle valve, lever, spring and shaft.

Locate the spring properly!

4;3

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2noo

Fuelsystem

A

G

When properly adjusted the lever of the needle valve shall be on a level with the carburetor housingsurrounding it. Adjust if necessary(see fig. 4:14).

Adjustmentof cartwrettor

A. Basic setting

Before adjusting the carburetor, proceed as follows:

Clean the air filter or, if necessary, replace it.

Check the spark plug and its electrodes.

Check that the fuel filter is not clogged.

Fig 4:14

If the lever is located too high, the carburetor will be very sensitiveas regardsthe adjustment of the adjusting needles.

A too low lever inducesbad acceleration qualities.

Check that the lever can move freely.

Make a pressuretest of the carburetor. Proceedas mentioned above.

Then mount gasket, metering diaphragm and cover.

NOTE!

Care should be taken to ensure that the centre pin of the diaphragm enters the fork in the lever!

Install the adjusting needlesand screw them out to the following basic position:

H = 1.0 turn open

L = 1.2 turn open

C. Speed governor

Locate the sealingwasher in the carburetor housing and fasten the speedgovernor, Pushthe choke shaft into its position and fit the choke flap and its locking screw.

Fig 4:15

Examine the fuel filter as follows:

Loosenthe fuel hosefrom the carburetor and lay the chain saw on the clutch side. Open the tank cap. If there is enough fuel in the tank, some of it ought to run out of the hose (seefig. 4:15).

Fig 4:16

After the abovementioned checks, make a basic adjustment of the carburetor needles,i.e. H = 1.0

turn open and L = 1.2 turn open.

Start the chain saw and warm it up by applying full throttle and letting it cut into a log.

A constant speed, without fourstroking, for 10-20 sec.when cutting into a log indicates not only a good high speedfunction of the carburetor but also a good condition overall.

4:4

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Fuelsystem ~

The following problems may occur when warming the chain saw up:

PROBLEM

Engine fourstroking

Bad idling

Low engine power

DAMAGE

Speed governor faulty

Crack in the insulating piece

Badly tightened carburetor screws

Incorrectly assembledor leaking gaskets

Tank breather valve inoperative

Fuel filter clogged

Leakagein the pumping section of the carburetor

NOTE!

Too lean adjustment of the carburetor would cause a considerable loss of power. Adjust the carburetor in order to obtain maximum power and not maximum speed.

B. Adjustment of L-needle

Adjust the idling speed by meansof the throttle adjusting screw “T” (fig. 4:16). Try to reach a position where the chain is just beginning to rotate, that is at a comparatively high idling speed.

3, Adjust the L-needle to the highestspeedposition. Then open it equivalent to 10 min on a clock-face to obtain a somewhat “richer” supply to aid acceleration.

4. By meansof the T-needle adjust the idling speed to 2,300-2,500 r/rein ensuringthat the chain does not rotate when engine is idling.

5. Give full throttle a couple of times to check that the engine “responds”. If not, open the L-needle by abt. 3 min. Check again.

C. Adjustment of H-needle

Adjust the high speed needle (H) as follows:

Apply full throttle by keeping a constant graspof the throttle trigger. At correct adjustment of the

H-needle the engine should be fourstroking.

The high idle speedshould be approx. 10,500 r/rein.

Fig 4:17

Put your right hand on the front handle and make a fine adjustment of the L-needle with your left hand. Use screwdriver No. 5016002-01.

Fine adjustment is made as follows:

1. Screw in the L-needle slowly and the speedwill increase.Screw in the needle a little further and the speedwill slow down again as the fuel supply becomestoo “lean”.

Notice the position of the needle at the highest speed.

2. Open the L-needle again and notice the highest speed position. Note that the speedslows down at “richer” supply.

Fig 4:18

4:5

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Fuelsystem

A

G

Fig 4:20

Check by meansof e.g. revolution counter No.

5025036-01, that the high idle speed is approx.

10,500 r/rein. Should the high idle speedof the engine be below 10,000 r/rein, check the speed governor of the carburetor and replace it, if necessary.

4,6

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Fuelsystem

A

G

Troubleshootingguide

Irregular idling speed

Engine stops when accelerated

(choke required)

“Leaning out”

No fuel supply

Difficult adjustment

Too “rich” supply

No idling speed

Extreme needle position

High idle speed not reaching

10,500 r/rein

m

x x

\

x x x

\

x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

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4:7

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E

nloo

Electricsystem ~

A. Ignitionsystem, troubleshooting

In all ignition testing the plug must be firmly earthed againstthe cylinder in order to prevent danageto the system.

. Remove the spark plug.

Connect the ignition cable and “earth” the plug e.g. againstthe cylinder.

Check for a spark between the electrodes when

Fig 5:3

4. In casethe trouble has not been detected, check the armature plate by meansof testing device No.

5025124-01.

Remove the armature plate (seebelow, “Removal, assembly”) and test it under load.

For test values,seethe instruction supplied with the testing device.

B. Removal/assembly

2.

3.

If no spark occurs, try a new plug.

If still no spark, check the connection between ignition cable and spark plug protector.

Disconnect the short circuiting cable from the switch.

Check for a spark.

If a spark occurs, the stop switch is faulty and should be exchanged.

Remove the starter and air conductor.

Cablesthat are squeezedor otherwise damaged should be exchanged.

Fig 5:4

Remove starter and air conductor. Remove cylinder cover and spark plug and fit piston stop No.

5025033-01 in the spark plug hole. Then loosen the flywheel nut by meansof a box spanner (17 mm).

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Electricsystem ~

R

Fig 5:5

Fit holding bar No. 5025060-01 on the flywheel and puller No. 5025026-01 on the holding bar.

Remove the flywheel.

Changingthe starter pawls and springs

Place the flywheel on the working bench with the starter pawls downwards.

A .Y

$,

Fig 5.6

Remove the three screwsretaining the armature plate. Remove the bracket for the ignition cable and disconnect the short circuiting cable from the stop switch. Then remove the armature plate.

Assembly is made in reverseorder.

When fitting the armature plate notice the marking

(fig. 5:7), ensuringa correct advanceignition. The flywheel nut should be tightened by torque 40-43

Nm.

NOTE!

Before fitting a new flywheel remove every trace of rust preventive especially on the hub.

Fig 5:8

Pushthe bearing pins of the starter pawls out of the flvwheel with a drift (~ 3 mm). Change starte; pawls and springs,and pressback t;e bearing pins from the fan side. Use Loctite AA in the pin holes before putting the pins back. Check that the pins reach the bottom and that springsand pawls work properly.

To ensure proper connection between contact spring and ignition cable, useassemblingpliers

No. 5025006-01 for fitting the spark plug protector on the ignition cable.

We recommend the useof Lithium greaseNo.

5025042-01 when connecting the ignition cable to the spark plug protector.

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Lubricatingsystem

(3

Removalof oil pump

Remove the following parts in order to get at the oil pump:

Clutch cover, chain and bar, centrifugal clutch

(NOTE! Left-hand threads), clutch drum.

NOTE!

The washer between the oil pump drive gear and the main bearing seal!

D c

Fig 6:3

For cleaning, dismantle the pump as follows:

1. Remove the adjusting screw (A, fig. 6:3).

2. Knock the edge of the pump housingagainsta piece of wood to make the pump piston (B, fig. 6:3) and its bearing slide out of the casing.

Fig 6:1

Loosen the three screwsthat retain the pump with a screwdriver and remove the oil pump.

Fig 6:2

Check if there is dirt in the suction channel by rotating the pump shaft in both directions. When the pump works properly and is filled with oil, the oil goesalternately through the suction channel (A) and the pressurechannel (B).

Fig 6:4

3. Check the wear of the adjusting screw against which the cam curve of the pump piston runs.

Replace if necessary.

4. Check the oil hosesand their connections to tank and crankcase(fig. 6:5).

Fig 6:5

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Lubricatingsystem

(3

Assembly

Assembly of the oil pump is made in reverseorder to dismantling.

Manualoil pump

Figure 6:8 showsthe oil passagefrom the oil tank, through the manual oil pump to the guide bar.

A. Oil passagefrom the oil tank into the pump.

Fig 6.6

Note the following:

1. Check that the sealingfor the pressureand suction channel is fitted, clean and undamaged

(C, fig. 6:3).

Check also the O-ring of the pump housing

(D, fig. 6:3).

B. Oil passagefrom the oil pump to the guide bar.

Fig 6:8

Removalof pump piston

Loosen the pump piston with tool No. 5025062-01.

Then pull pump piston and pump cylinder out of the oil tank.

Fig 6:7

Use sleeveNo. 5025052-01 to protect the main bearing seal when the pump is fitted into the crankcase.

2. After fitting the pump into the crankcase,check that the pump piston turns easily.

6:2

Fig 6:9

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Lubricatingsystem

(3

Removalof valve housing

Loosen the socket head screwsthat retain the valve housingwith Allen key No. 5025019-01.

Troubleshootingguide

Fig 6:10

L

/P

A = Valves

B = Suction hose

B DA

C = Valve housing

D = Valve guidance c

Remove the valve housing (C, fig.6:10) from the oil tank.

PuII the suction hose (B, fig. 6:10) and the oil filter out of the oil tank.

Clean the parts and replace if damaged.

Particularly check the O-ring and the valves(A, fig. 6:10). Clean the oil channelswith compressed air and check simultaneously the hoseconnection between tank and crankcasebehind the silencer.

Adjustingscrewin position I I

Adjustingscrewworn

Dirt in the suctionhoseand oil filter

-l-4--u

HH

Vacuum in the oil tank

Pump pistonseized

Suction hosecrackedor leaking

Oil channelof crankcaseclogged

Driving geardamaged

Sealingring damagedor lost

x

H

x x x

Assembly

Assembly of the valve housingand the pump piston is made in reverseorder to dismantling.

Note the following:

1. The valve guidance (D) for the suction hose shall be fitted according to fig. 6:1O.

2. Fit the valvesaccording to fig. 6:10.

3. Lubricate the O-rings on the pump cylinder before assemblyto prevent damages.

4. Check that the pump works after assembly.

6;3

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2100

57

Cylinder,Piston ~

Removal

Lift off the cylinder cover and remove the throttle push rod. Remove the plastic sleevefrom the carburetor adjusting needles. Loosen the screwsretaining the carburetor but leave the carburetor in its seating. Remove the spark plug protector, and the spark plug from the cylinder.

Remove the silencer and loosen the four screws retaining the cylinder with Allen key No. 5025057-

01.

Fig 7:2

Put a rag into the crankcaseopening to protect the crankcasefrom the ingressof dirt etc. Remove the circlips on the wristpin with a pair of flat hose pliers and push out the wristpin with fitting drift

No. 5025069-01.

Remove the insulating piece from the cylinder.

Scrape off carbon depositsfrom the exhaust port and combustion chamber.

Fig 7:1

Lift the cylinder. To facilitate removal, the piston should be at the bottom dead centre.

L

Control

Check the following before assembly,and take the measuresrequired.

DAMAGE

Broken cooling fins, damaged threads.

Seizure marks in the cylinder wall (especially at exhaust port).

Surface of the cylinder wall worn (esp. at the top).

Seizure marks on the piston.

Piston rings stuck in the grooves.

REMEDY

In case of severe damage, change the cylinder. Restore the thread with HeIi-Coil inserts.

Polish the marks with a fine emery clotch to remove aluminium deposits.

If the marks are deep, change cylinder and piston.

Replace cylinder and piston.

Polish the marks carefully with a fine file or emery cloth.

Before fitting the piston, polish the cylinder wall as stated above. If the marks are deep, change the piston and, if necessary, the cylinder.

Remove the piston rings carefully and clean the grooves completely before reassembly.

Check the wear of the piston rings by placing them in the bottom of the cylinder. The gap between the ends of the rings should be 0.6 mm max.

Check that the rings are still springy.

7:1

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2000

Cylinder,Piston Z7

Assembly

Check that piston and cylinder have the same classification marking (seefig. 1 :1 and the classification table).

Fit the insulating piece and the sealingcollar on the cylinder. Check that the gasket is fitted correctly.

Fig 7:3

Placea new cylinder basegasketon the crankcase.

Check that the needle bearing of the wristpin is not damaged. Fit it in the connecting rod and lubricate with a few drops of two-stroke oil.

Fig

7:5

Lubricate the piston rings with a few drops of two-stroke oil. Place the supporting piece in mounting set No. 5025070-01 under the piston.

Fig 7:4

Fit the piston on the connecting rod. Use fitting drift No. 5025069-01 to centre the piston against the needle bearing of the connecting rod. Push the wristpin in and fit the circlips. Turn them round with a pair of flat hose pliers to check that they run smoothly in the grooves.

Fig 7:6

Use the piston ring compressorin mounting set

No. 5025070-01 and push the cylinder carefully down over the piston. To avoid breaking the piston rings,do not turn the cylinder.

Tighten the four cylinder basescrewsdiagonally and evenly. Turn the crankshaft and check that the piston moveseasily in the cylinder.

Fit the silencer and the carburetor.

Connect the throttle push rod to the carburetor, and fit the plastic sleeveover the adjusting needles.

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Crankcase,Crankshaft 0

0 o

Removalof crankcase

The following components will have been removed already: chain and bar, centrifugal clutch, ignition system, carburetor, silencer, cylinder and piston.

Fig 8:3

Separate the tank unit from the crankcase.

Remove the cylinder basegasket.

Fig 8:1

Drain the oil and fuel tanks.

Place the chain saw in the clamping device No,

5025102-01 and remove oil pump and tank unit.

Do not forget to disconnect the oil hosesbetween crankcaseand oil tank.

Fig 8:4

Remove the sevenscrewsholding the crankcase halvestogether.

Do not forget the screw behind the plastic cover on the rear part of the crankcase.

Fig 8:2

Remove the six screws(three on each side) that connect the crankcaseto the tank unit.

Fig 8:5

Warm up the bearing seatscarefully with a gas burner, to abt 130° C. Warming up should be applied evenly to avoid thermal stress.

Avoid to heat the ball bearingsdirect with the flame!

8:1

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Crankcase,Crankshaft o

u

o

Assemblingthecrankcase

Fig 8.6

Separate the crankcasehalvesby careful useof a plastic hammer. Remove the sealingring on the magneto side.

Remove the ball bearingsfrom the crankshaft with a special ball bearing puller.

Crankshaftcheck

Fig 8:8

Fit a new ball bearing on the magneto side of the crankshaft. Use fitting drift No.

5025082-01.

Fig 8:7

A defective crankshaft must be replaced.

Check the big end of the connecting rod. Should there be seizure marks or discolored spots on the sides,the crankshaft must be changed.The connecting rod should not show any radial play (up and down).

Fig 8:9

Warm up the bearing seat in the magneto half of the crankcaseto abt 13@ C.

Fit the crankshaft with ball bearing in the crankcase half.

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Crankcase,Crankshaft ~

Fig 8:10

Placethe drive side in the clamping device No.

5025102-01.

Warm up the bearing seat to abt

130°C. Fit the ball bearing in the seat and locate it properly with fitting tool No. 5025030-01.

Leave the crankcasehalf in the clamping device to cool down.

Fig8:12

Pull the crankcasehalvestogether with fitting tool No. 5025030-01.

Tighten all screws, beginning nearest the crankshaft (see fig. 8:4).

Check the position of the gasketand cut off its edgeson the cylinder basesurface.

Fig 8:1 1

Greasethe gasketseat and fit a new gasketon the magneto side of the crankcase.

Locate the magneto side with crankshaft over the drive side, ensuringthat the gasket is not displaced.

Turn around the crankcasein the clamping device.

Check that the guide pins enter correctly.

Fig 8:13

Check that the crankshaft rotates easily. If not, knock lightly with a plastic hammer on the drive side of the crankshaft.

Check that the crankshaft is properly centered in the crankcase.

8:3

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(0)

Crankcase,Crankshaft ~

Assemblyof crankcase— tankunit

Fit the rear part of the tank unit first, so that the fuel hose may be pulled through the hole in the crankcase.

Fig 8:14

Fit a new main bearing seal in the magneto side of the crankcase.Use fitting drift No. 5025082-01.

Fit the oil pump (seechapter 6).

Fit piston and cylinder (seechapter 7).

Pressuretest the crankcase (seechapter 2).

Fig 8:16

Adjust the front part of the tank unit and fit the vibration dampers.

Changingthevibrationdampers

Fig 8:15

Check the vibration dampers before reassembling the tank unit and the crankcase.

If they are limp or damaged they should be changed.

Use U-spanner No. 5025066-01.

Make sure that the tool also turns the rear steel washer of the damper.

8:4

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Starter

D

0

Removal

Remove the screwsthat retain the starter. Set the return spring to zero by pulling out the starting cord by abt 30 cm,

Assembly

Put the return spring, a new one if necessary,into the starter housing. Lubricate the centre tap with a few drops of ordinary engine oil.

Put the plastic cover back and tighten the screws.

Fig 9:1

put it into the groove of the pulley rim and let the pulley turn slowly backwards (slow it down with your thumb). Loosen the screw and remove the washer in the centre of the pulley.

Fig 9:3

If necessary,changethe starting cord and fit it on the pulley.

Make sure that the stop “cube” fits properly in the recessin the pulley and that the screw in the cube has its head facing the pulley (the end of the screw points outwards).

Wind up the cord abt 3 turns on the pulley. (Note!

right direction) and fit it in the starter housing.

Check that the spring grips the pulley, then fit the washer and the screw. Make sure that the pulley can move freely.

Fig 9:2

Lift off the pulley.

Remove the screwsthat retain the plastic cover over the return spring.

Remove the cover and the spring.

NOTE!

It should be possible to turn the pulley a further 1/2 of a turn approx. with the cord pulled out entirely.

Fig 9:4

Pull the cord through the cord sleeveof the starter housingand through the starter handle. Make a knot in the cord and pull the knot completely into the insert and handle.

Put the cord into the woove of the ~ullev rim and tension the spring eno;gh to get 1/2 spare round.

Fit the starter.

9:1

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2100

CentrifugalClutch

00

Removal

Fit the piston stop No. 5025033-01 into the spark plug hole. Remove the clutch centre with tool No.

5025024-01 or combination wrench. NOTE!

Left-hand threads. Lift off clutch centre and clutch drum. Do not losethe washer behind the worm gear, if the gear follows the drum.

Use the drift to pressa new bearing into the clutch drum. NOTE! Presson the side of the bearing where the type number is. Check that the bearing is on a level with the drum hub.

On Oregon rim sprocket drum the bearing can be changedwithout tools.

Changingtheclutchspring

The clutch spring should be changed if it has been overheated (blue coloured) or broken. it is easily changedwith pliers No. 5025049-01 as shown in fig. 10:3.

Fig 10:1

Changingthe needlebearing

Lift off the worm gear of the oil pump drive if necessaryand place the clutch drum with the chain drive upwards on a tube sleeve(e.g. No. 5025 030-04) asclose to the bearing as possible.

Fig 10:3

When fitting the new spring, check that its ends connect in the centre of a clutch shoe. Do not overstretch the spring!

Fig 10:2

Pushout the bearing with a suitable drift. The drift is to be centered by the inner diameter of the bearing (e.g. usea rejected shaft),

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CentrifugalClutch

00

Changingthewormgear

The worm gear of the oil pump drive is easily removed from the clutch drum. It hasfour dogs which fit into four correspondinggroovesin the clutch drum.

Lubrication

Lubricate the worm gear of the oil pump drive with

Molykote before fitting the clutch drum. The needle bearing is to be lubricated with ball bearing grease. Two pumps with the greasegun into the hole of the shaft centre are sufficient.

Fig 10:4

When fitting a new gear, put it in the clutch drum and check that it fits exactly into the groovesof the drum. Then fit the drum with gear on the crankshaft.

Do not forget the washer behind the worm gear!

Fig 10:6

Checkingwear

Check the wear of the clutch centre and the clutch shoes.There should be at least 1 mm material left on the friction surface of the shoes.

Fig 10:5

A{{the shoes haveto be-changedon thesame occasion.

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2100

SafetyEquipment on

A. Chainbrake

Removal

Proceedas follows:

Remove the clutch cover and clean brake mechanism and brake band.

Fix the clutch cover in the clamping device No.

5025102-01 with two spareguide bar studsand nuts.

Fig 11:1

Pushthe brake band upwards (e.g. by insertinga combination key between the brake band and the two rear supports) in order to get at the adjusting nut (seefig. 11 :1).

Remove the adjusting nut retaining the pull rod, and carefully releasethe brake mechanismwith the hand guard.

Remove the brake spring.

Fig 11:3

Dismantle the brake band as follows:

Use a drift@ 1 mm to push out from below the roll pin that retains the brake band in the correct position, The band with pull rod and spring may then be changed.

Fig 11:4

When replacing the hand guard, first nut then the pivot pin.

remove the

Fig 11:2

Check the band wear. The band should have at least 3/4 of its original thickness (1 mm) on its most worn part, otherwise it must be changed.

Fig 11:5

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11:1

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2noo

SafetyEquipment Ofl

The catch may be removed after pushing out the roll pin functioning as a bearing. Use a drift @ 4 mm.

Check the wear on the locking part of the catch

(seeA, fig. 11 :5).

The catch spring is easily changed, if necessary.

Adjustment of brake band

Make an initial adjustment utilising a spareclutch drum in the brake band.

Releaseand lock the brake repeatedly to check that the mechanismworks smoothly.

To check that the chain brake actuatescorrectly, proceed as follows:

Fit guide bar and chain.

Start the engine and let it idle.

Releasethe chain brake with the hand guard.

Operate the throttle trigger.

With a properly adjusted brake band the chain must not rotate as the engine accelerates.

Adjustment of the Swed-O-Matic

Set the adjusting screw (A fig. 11 :7) so that the brake actuatesat a load of 20-24 kp on the guide bar nose (24” guide bar). Check this e.g. by pushing the guide bar noseagainsta spring balance.

The Swed-o-Matic should be adjusted so that it actuatestoo easily rather than not at all.

Fig 11.f5

It

should not be possibleto rotate the drum when the brake is released,but in the unbraked position the drum should be easily rotated.

Fine adjustment is made with the clutch cover fitted on the saw. The gap between the catch and the head of the adjusting nut should be 7 mm when the brake is released.Measurethe gap with a calliper (seefig. 11 :7).

Note that in the unbraked position the brake band must not touch the clutch drum.

B.Changingthethrottlesafety

catchandthethrottlelever

Dismantle the tank unit as described in chapter 8 under the heading “Removal of crankcase”.

Fig 11:7

.

..n

Fig 11:8

Remove the throttle lever shaft and the lever with a drift @ 3 mm.

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SafetyEquipment 00

Fig 11:9

The safety catch is removed by pushingout the roll pin with a drift 03 mm.

The spring is attached to the safety catch. It may be changedafter pushing out the roll pin with a drift @ 1.5 mm.

Reassemblyof the throttle safety catch and the throttle lever is made in reverseorder to dismantling.

Check that the throttle lever works properly both as safety catch and as starting throttle ratchet.

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11:3

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