Packard 22nd Series Chassis Service Manual

SERVICE
MANUAL
SECTION VI
CHASSIS
Packard Motor Car Company
Detroit 32, Michigan
— st Edition —-l4M—9-49
Litho т U.S.A,
INTRODUCTION «+ = 6 4% = ет. т еее ета те в + " 1
BRAKING SYSTEM. 0 4 6% #6 à 46 € 6 € 9% 6 & 6 5 6 6 © & 6 40 4% 6 6 6 5 BF TED 1
GENERAL DESCRIPTION............... 204000202000000 .. 2
FOOT BRAKE PEDAL. ............eoecoveonvccorccao ... 2
1. Adjusting Brake Pedal Free Play, ........eeeeoeocavo 2
MASTER CYLINDER...........eooorexescccscoocosorenonea 4
1. Servicing the Master Cylinder........e.eeooccerscaoo 6
BRAKE FLUID LINES.........0..00 0000 nec 0 na 000000000000 7
1. Fluid and Fluid Level. .........eo.reorevooccosroree. 7
2. Bleeding the System................. eurenecercccao. 7
WHEEL CYLINDERS ..........eooeonscsorocarocorerocomerce 9
1. Servicing the Wheel Cylinders.............eonocogoe 10
BRAKE SHOES AND LININGS. ....e.o.eoonococscoreccoo 10
BRAKE DRUMS..........ee._ecorcconoorrecrorresroorone, 11
.1. Refacing.+he Drums. ......eoreocccscores RARE 11
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT........ 0020000000 sec sa ne 00000000 12
1. Brake Adjustment—Minor., ......eeoresocorecorceneo 14
2. Brake Adjustment—Major. ......o.ee.eseroorecacaco 15
PARKING BRAKES.........eecoorecsrrcsvesccrvererccranoo 18
1. Lubricating the Parking Brakes.......e.resnsororaoo 18
BRAKE TROUBLES AND CORRECTIONS.................. 19
1. Pedal Goes to Toe Board. .........ecerescccreooreos 19
2. All Brakes Drag.....e..eoeereosocorcorreconsorrevcos 20
3. One Wheel Drags...........orervsrcesocorocoreraa. 20
4. Soft, Spongy Pedal Action.............. ace acc au 00 21
5. Car Pulls to One Side. ........oereonveravcsoreccce:. 22
EXHAUST SYSTEM................. ........ e... 23
1. General.........oeocecccooocarecvoororernocaceres .... 23
2. Replacement of Parts. ........eeeccoveronroreoccece. 24
3. Neutralizing the Exhaust System..... cocoon. 24
INDEX (Continued)
FUEL SYSTEM. a 6 6 0 9 6 6 6 6 6 BB SB & à bb 6 + 5 BFE SBF 6 6 ен ев 24
1. Fuel Tank and Main Fuel Line... - PA are wes 24
2. Fuel Gauge SysteM...0..0.000000000 80000000 000000 25 °
3. Checking the Fuel Tank Sending Unit.............. 26
FRAME в + ев 5 & & & 2 2 вов ян ев в + в + 6 0 6 #6 6 6 5 à 6 27
1. General.....oressosnococsrnecocrororotracoorana arameo 27
2. Frame Alignment.....00.0.000000000000000 000000000000 . 27
3. Frame Dimensions—22nd Series. ....ecoeeocesosooccoro 29
UNIVERSAL JOINT AND PROPELLER SHAFT...... 30
1. General. ....oooseoccocorncoosaosorersarvacsooanedraceo 30
2. DisassemblY.....0.000000000400400000000000000000000000 32
3. Assembly. ......eooccornerccorearearcarcaratecarates 34
4. Intermediate Bearing.......eeereseoroverasooconcor. 35
5. Trouble Shooting. .........o.resservecsoroocreoceo. 38
6. Lubrication.......orreecoceo. Pone... PA 38
SPRINGS........... 000088550000 6000200 0000000 39
1. Load and Rate. .....er_r_eeoorocsoscosrvoronooo ese eens 39
REAR SPRINGS. ....ñeo.eeooccococoocooeoo ooo e .... 40
1. General. .......ocoro0sroccsccsvcooccccsacnoororercerrao 40
2. Liner Type Springs. ........ oensoracorocancocererciao 41
3. Insert Type Springs. .........ecoocerrescorererconee Á2
4. Rear Spring Maintenance. .....e.ecore.ooocccoorococoo 43
RIDE те ет ет ве вв ве вене вв вв 6 58 #6 ев 4 & # в E #6 & яв вв вв вв a 44
1. General.........e....e.eococroeoconeocarecerecen. 44
2. Friction Lag. .........eorsoroeosorvesrcocacenrorcano 44
3. Neutralizing the Rear Suspension. ........esrecrcocoo 45
TIRES 6 6% #4 6 + вв & 5 #6 0 3B % 5 6 5 4 à#& © 6 #6 влево в $ U # = & в 46
1. Tire Pressure. ....ew.w.wosraccccscoorooracsnaracacoeorercoe 46
2. Tire Thump........emeeoseorsovcoscocarvorcrcarecaca. 46
TIGHTENING TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS......... ‚ 47
LUBRICATION DIAGRAM........... 00000000. ... 49
CHASSIS SPECIFICATIONS............... ...... 50
"INTRODUCTION
THE 22nd SERIES CHASSIS
This section of the Service Manual is essentially a ready reference
book, and as such, has been designed to coxer those troubles most
common to the automotive chassis. An attempt has also been made
to present the theory of operation of each major assembly, as two
processes are involved which can’t be learned from books. These
are: trouble shooting, a reasoning process applicable only after a
precise knowledge of operation has been acquired—and repair, a
combination of manual skill, tools, and ingenuity.
BRAKING SYSTEM
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The Packard braking system (figure 1) makes use of self-energiz-
ing hydraulic foot brakes as well as mechanical hand or parking
brakes. The foot brakes are of the two shoe, internal expanding
type and apply to all four wheels. The hand brake, through a cable
and linkage arrangement, engages the rear wheel brakes only.
The foot brake system consists of the following major assemblies:
—
_
Fig. 1—The Packard Braking System Makes Use of Self-Energizing
Foot Brakes and Mechanical Hand Brakes.
1. The foot brake pedal by means of which the initial force is
applied.
2. The master cylinder which translates foot pedal force into
pressure in the hydraulic circuit.
PEDAL FORCE
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Fig. 2—The Arrangement of the Main Brake Pedal Arm and lts
Bellcrank Supplies the Necessary Mechanical Advantage.
3. The lines or tubing through which fluid pressure is distributed
to each wheel cylinder.
4. The wheel cylinders gvhich translate fluid pressure back into
a force to engage the shoes with the brake drums.
5. The brake shoes, supporting linings which contact the brake
drums. _
6. The brake drum and hub assemblies to which the wheels are
attached.
A detailed description of each of these assemblies follows.
FOOT BRAKE PEDAL
Since distance A (figure 2) is about 515 times distance B, it follows
that the push rod force is about 515 times the pedal force. This in-
crease in force is passed on by the action of the master cylinder in
the form of fluid pressure throughout the hydraulic system.
1. Adjusting Brake Pedal Free Play
A pedal free play greater than 14 inch will reduce the effective travel
of the master cylinder piston, which in turn will reduce the effective-
ness of the brakes.
Fig. 4—The Brake Master Cylinder Is Bolted to a Secondary Member
of the Frame, Just Forward of the Brake Pedal.
Free play less than 14 inch will cause the piston primary cup to
partly or completely stop off the master cylinder bypass port. When
this happens, the fluid either cannot return from the lines or must
return so slowly that the brakes will drag.
To adjust the brake pedal free play it is necessary for the master
cylinder piston to be against its stop in the released position.
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Fig. 5— Cutaway of Brake Master Cylinder Showing Position
of Working Parts with Brakes Released.
Slide off the rear boot strap (A, figure 3) and loosen the jam nut
(B) on the push rod link (C). Take up or back off adjusting nut
(D) as necessary. Watch the boot—if it turns with the nut, probably
the rubber has adhered to the nut and if so, the forward boot strap
(E) should be slacked off and the entire boot allowed to turn around
its boss on the master cylinder. The boot must not be allowed to
twist since this would tend to pull on the cylinder push rod and
spoil the adjustment. Remember that the travel of the pedal pad is
much greater than the travel of the push rod, so a slight adjustment
of the push rod is probably all that is needed. Now take up on the
lock nut and check the pedal pad for 4 to 15 inch free play before
the beginning of the pressure stroke. After a satisfactory adjustment
has been made, check the position of the boot and engage both boot
straps.
MASTER CYLINDER
The brake master cylinder (figure 4) is bolted to a secondary mem-
° Бег оЁ the frame just forward of the brake pedal. A fluid reservoir
(A, figure 5), located above the cylinder, is incorporated in the
casting and its function is to compensate for minor losses, for any
expansion or contraction of the fluid due to temperature changes,
and to supply extra fluid as needed during brake application. It
may be said then, that the brake master cylinder contains “compen-
sating fluid” while the fluid in the cylinder and lines ahead of the
master cylinder piston will be referred to as “working fluid” since
it carries the pressure when the brakes are applied.
Brake fluid is added to the reservoir when necessary after removing
the filler cap (B). Small holes in the filler cap serve to keep the
surface of the compensating fluid always at atmospheric pressure.
The piston push rod (C) transmits force from the pedal and linkage
to the piston (D). The primary cup (E) seals the piston in the cyl-
inder (F) and, acting with the piston and cylinder, changes the
push rod force into pressure in the lines while the secondary cup
seals off the space in the cylinder behind the piston. This prevents
the fluid which surrounds the piston from leaking into the boot (G).
The piston spring (H) serves to hold the primary cup securely
against the piston head at all times and also to return the piston to
its normal position when the brakes are released.
The check valve (J) is spring loaded to six or eight pounds and
maintains a corresponding pressure in the lines after the brakes
have been released and the working fluid has returned to its normal
place in the lines. It also functions as a seal to prevent seepage and
is instrumental in keeping air out of the system during the bleeding
operation. On the pressure stroke, the working fluid passes through
holes in the cup retainer or cage and past the lip of the cup. When
returning, the fluid forces the cup against the cage and seals the
holes. This allows the valve assembly to move from its seat and
permits the working fluid to flow back into the master cylinder until
the pressure drop is sufficient for the valve to close.
When the brake pedal is depressed, the piston push rod forces the
piston, along with the piston cups, to the forward end of the cyl-
inder. Shortly after the beginning of piston travel, the primary
piston cup covers the relief port thereby starting the pressure stroke
and as the piston progresses from this point working fluid is forced
out through the check valve with a resulting pressure in the lines
and wheel cylinders.
When the brake pedal is released the piston returns at a much faster
rate than that of the working fluid as good brake design demands
quick recovery of the system. The pedal retracting spring and piston
return spring combine to return the pedal to normal position
quickly while the master cylinder compensates from the reservoir
to keep the system always full of fluid. In the meantime, the shoe
retracting springs are returning the working fluid more slowly
from the wheel cylinders and as this fluid returns it displaces the
compensating fluid back into the reservoir through the compen-
sating port (K).
Fig. 6—The Filler Cap Incorporates Small Breather Holes to Maintain
Atmospheric Pressure in the Reservoir.
1. Servicing the Master Cylinder
If it 1s necessary to recondition the master cylinder, remove it from
the car before dismantling.
The filler cap incorporates small breather holes (figure 6) to
maintain atmospheric pressure at the reservoir fluid surface. Run
a small wire through the breather holes to clear them if they are
sealed with dirt and oil.
Unless it presents a smooth surface, free of score marks, the master
cylinder wall surface should be rehoned.
CAUTION
Honing is essentially a polishing operation. A cylinder
that has been honed to an excessive inside diameter may
cause the cup lip to jam between the piston and the cylinder
wall. It is good practice to discard a cylinder that shows
deep score marks and replace it with a new one.
If the internal rubber parts are swelled, distorted, and very soft, it
is probable that at least a trace of mineral oil has found its way into
the system. All internal rubber parts in the master and wheel cyl-
inder assemblies should be replaced if this condition is apparent.
BRAKE FLUID LINES
The metal brake fluid lines leading from the master cylinder are
clipped to the frame. Connection to each front wheel cylinder and
to the metal rear wheel line is effected by flexible rubber hose,
since, the constant action of the wheels would soon rupture metal
tubing if used at these points. |
1. Fluid and Fluid Level
Many types of brake fluid are available under various trade names
and some of these are definitely harmful to steel and rubber. For
this reason, it is recommended that Packard Hydraulic Brake Fluid
be used exclusively for bleeding and replenishing the hydraulic
fluid supply.
Reservoir fluid level should be checked every 1000 miles. If addi-
tion of fluid is necessary, fill the reservoir to about A inch from the
top of the filler plug opening. Carefully wipe the filler cap and
shoulder clean before removal as a trace of oil or a quantity of dirt
can have an adverse effect upon the entire system. Should the fluid
level become too low, air will enter the system and bleeding will
be necessary.
2. Bleeding the System
For all practical purposes, hydraulic brake fluid cannot be .com-
pressed, so as long as the liquid is confined and completely fills the
hydraulic circuit, any pressure applied to the liquid will be relayed
instantly and at full strength all through the system. Air is readily
compressible however, and the presence of entrapped air (bubbles)
in the system will invariably result in time lag and loss of brak-
ing force.
The presence of air in the lines is generally indicated by a soft,
spongy pedal feel and this trouble may be caused by any of the
following conditions.
A. When fluid level in the master cylinder is too low.
B. When the master cylinder, a wheel cylinder, or a section of the
hydraulic line has been disconnected.
C. When the car has been driven for an extended period with the
hand brake engaged or with an overly tight adjustment of the
shoes. Either condition can cause overheating of the brakes to
the extent of boiling the fluid in a wheel cylinder.
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Fig. 7— Using the Bleeder Wrench J-627, Back Off the
Bleeder One Full Turn.
D. When the master cylinder secondary piston cup has become
. excessively worn.
E. When the master cylinder filler cap vents have become plugged.
Е. When a leak is found in the lines, connections, or cylinders.
G. When it is necessary to fill the system with new fluid.
Bleeding the brake circuit may be accomplished either by employ-
ment of specialized pressure bleeding equipment or by use of the
brake pedal to pump fluid through the lines.
The pressure operation permits one man to do the Job quickly since >
pressure and supply are provided automatically. Most shops, how-
ever, use the brake pedal pumping system and this procedure follows.
Before starting this operation, make sure that the fluid reservoir is
completely filled otherwise air will enter the system through the
master cylinder.
To bleed the system, remove the screw from the bleeder connection
and thread in the brake bleeder tube, J-747, and place a container
BOOT CUP NLET CYLINDER
PISTON PISTON SPRING
Fig. 8—The Wheel Cylinders Are of the Straight Bore
Double Piston Type.
below the free end of the tube. Using the bleeder wrench, J-627,
(figure 7) back off the bleeder one full turn and depress the brake
pedal slowly. Allow the pedal to return sharply to its normal posi-
tion making sure that the end of the bleeder tube is submerged in
fluid in the container. Repeat this pumping action until no bubbles
are observed in the fluid emerging from the hose, then close the
bleeder connection and remove the bleeder tube.
Bleed only one wheel cylinder at a time.
CAUTION
Remember to keep the fluid level well up in the reservoir
when bleeding the system. Fluid withdrawn during this
operation should be discarded.
WHEEL CYLINDERS
The wheel cylinders (figure 8) are of the straight bore type. They
contain two pistons, each sealed off from the fluid in the cylinder
by a rubber cup, the cups being held securely to the piston heads by
a compression spring. On the pressure stroke, each piston operates
a push rod to its respective brake shoe. One port located between
the pistons and cups serves both for the admission and return of
fluid on the pressure and return strokes. A molded rubber boot at
both ends of each wheel cylinder serves to keep dust and dirt out
of the cylinder.
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Fig. 9—Showing Flexible Method of Mounting Brake
Shoes to the Support Plate.
1. Servicing the Wheel Cylinders
Wheel cylinder and cup servicing procedures are basically the same
as those described for the master cylinder.
CAUTION
The linings and drums must remain absolutely free of brake
fluid, grease, and oil. Be sure to control any dripping of
fluid and wipe the hands clean before handling these parts.
BRAKE SHOES AND LININGS
The forward brake shoe is called the primary shoe while the rear
shoe is the secondary.
Spring loaded pins hold both shoes flexibly at their centers to the
brake support plate while the notched upper ends of the shoes butt
to the anchor pin. See figure 9. The anchor pin guide plate, acting
as a washer, and the connection arrangement of the retracting
springs to the anchor pin complete such action as is necessary to
hold the shoes in position.
On the pressure stroke, both shoe linings are forced outward to
bear against the drum. The flexible mounting arrangement allows
the primary shoe to follow the rotation of the drum for a short
distance, and by doing so, it pushes on the secondary shoe through
10
Fig. 10—It Is Necessary to Reface a Brake Drum if Its Braking
Surface Has Become Deeply Scored.
the adjusting screw at the bottom. As far as forward rotation of the
wheels 1s concerned, this force on the secondary shoe is applied
ahead of the pin connection causing it to jam against the drum at a
pressure much greater than that of the primary shoe. The action of
the secondary shoe being far more severe than that of the primary,
it is necessary that the secondary lining material be the more re-
sistant to heat and wear for each lining to wear at essentially the
same rate.
“Duo-Servo” or “Self-Energizing” 1s the name given the principle
just described, since the combination of the speed of the car and its
weight, or the potential energy of the car is put to work in stopping
it. When the car is braked while going backward, the primary shoe
becomes the secondary, the secondary becomes the primary, and the
“Duo-Servo” principle applies as usual.
BRAKE DRUMS
By combining high temperatures with centrifugal force, molten
cast iron is fused to the flange inner surface of the steel brake drums
used in Packard cars. Known as the “Centrifuse” process, this
permits the use of cast iron for its desirable braking surface proper-
ties while still retaining the structural advantages of steel.
1. Refacing the Brake Drums
It is necessary to reface a brake drum if its braking surface has
become deeply scored. See figure 10. This condition is caused
mostly by excessive wear of the brake linings, these thinning down
11
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Fig. 11—Install Service Shims Between the Linings and Shoes to
Compensate for Amount of Metal Removed from Drum.
until the rivet heads are exposed to the brake drum. Sometimes
foreign matter (pebbles and the like) will find its way inside the
drum, become imbedded in the lining, and score the drum surface.
Whatever the cause, if the score marks are .020 inch or greater in
depth, the drum should be set up on a lathe and turned down .020
inch all around (.040 inch on the diameter). If this does not sub-
stantially remove the score marks, the drum may be turned down
another .010 inch (making a total cut of .060 inch on the diameter).
If the score marks and scratches are still deep and numerous, after
.030 inch depth has been removed from the face surface, it is well to
discard the drum and replace it with a new one. Considerable
braking area will be lost if the drum surface is not smooth and, in
addition, the linings will wear much more rapidly. Service shims
of either .020 or .030 inch should be installed (figure 11) between
the linings and the shoes to compensate for the amount of metal
removed from the drum.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
Brake adjustment procedures may be divided into two general
classifications: these are the Minor Brake Adjustment and the
Major Brake Adjustment.
The Minor Brake Adjustment compensates for normal lining wear
and restores correct pedal reserve.
The Major Brake Adjustment is necessary when new linings have
been riveted to the shoes, when anchor pin locations have been
12
Fig. 12—Use the Wrench KMO-526 to Remove the Brake
Shoe Retracting Springs.
Fig. 13—Tool KMO-526 Also Is Used to Install Brake
Shoe Retracting Springs.
disturbed, when brake drums have been refaced, and when satis-
factory results are not obtained in the Minor Brake Adjustment.
If the brake shoes are to be removed, use the wrench, KMQ-526,
to remove the springs as shown in figure 12 and reinstall or replace
them with the same tool as shown in figure 13. Use brake cylinder -
clamps, KMQO-145, (figure 14) to prevent the pistons from being
forced out of their cylinders by action of the wheel cylinder cup
springs or from accidental movement of the brake pedal.
13
Fig. 14—Use Brake Cylinder Clamps KMO-145 to Prevent the
Pistons from Being Forced Out of Their Cylinders.
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rake Adjusting Wrench J-1028 Through
Fig. 15—Insert B
the Adjusting Slot to Turn the Adjusting Screw.
1. Brake Adjustment—Minor
A. Jack up all four wheels and remove the adjusting hole covers
from the brake support plates.
B. Disconnect the hand brake cable at the equalizer. Adjust the
master cylinder piston push rod to allow 14 to 14 inch free
movement of the pedal pad before pressure 1s reached in the
cylinder. (See “Adjusting Brake Pedal Free Play.”)
14
BETA aaa
Fig. 16— _ Always Use a Wheel Puller of the Type Shown
When Removing the Rear Brake Drums.
Insert brake adjusting wrench, J-1028, through the adjusting
slot at the bottom of the brake support plate, as shown in
figure 15, engaging a tooth on the shoe adjusting screw. By
turning the adjusting screw downward, expand the shoes on
each wheel until the drums can just be turned by hand.
Reconnect and adjust the hand brake cables at the equalizer.
Back off the adjusting screw 16 clicks on all wheels. Be sure
that all drums are entirely free of brake drag.
Reinstall hole covers, check master cylinder reservoir for
correct fluid level and road test the car.
2. Brake Adjustment—Major
A. Jack up all four wheels clear of the floor.
B.
Remove the wheels and the hub and drum assemblies for
inspection of drums, linings, and brake mechanism. Use a
puller of the type shown in figure 16 to remove the rear drums.
Never use a knockout type wheel puller as this may result in
fracture of the rear axle shaft thrust block.
Check the condition of the brake linings. If they are worn
down to the rivet heads or are grease soaked, they should be
replaced. If these conditions are not evident, inspect the lining
for imbedded foreign particles in surface, loose rivets, etc.,
and correct 1f necessary. If the shoes are to be removed,
clamp the wheel cylinder pistons with wheel cylinder clamps,
KMO-145. Inspect the brake drums. If they are scratched from
15
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Fig. 17—Loosen the Anchor Pin Lock Nut and Free the Wheel by
Turning the Anchor Pin Either Forward or Backward.
foreign particles imbedded in linings, smooth them with
emery cloth. If badly scored, the drum must be refaced. (See
“Refacing the Brake Drums.”)
Check the rear bearing seals for leaks at this point of pro-
cedure and if leaks are apparent install new inner and outer
seals.
D. Lubricate friction points on the support plates with Lubriplate
and sparingly oil the hand brake strut lever on the rear wheel
secondary shoes.
E. Disconnect the hand brake cables at the equalizer.
NOTE
Before reinstalling the hub and drum assembly, check the
position of the anchor pin cam. Correct positioning of this
cam is essential and may be determined by the location of
the anchor pin nibs. The high nib must be on the rear side
of the slot. If the anchor pin has been incorrectly installed
previously so that the high nib is forward, it will be neces-
sary to loosen the lock nut and turn the anchor pin 180
degrees.
F. Install hub and drum assemblies.
G. Turn the star wheel adjustment until the wheel is just locked
and then loosen the adjustment six clicks.
H. Loosen the anchor pin lock nut (figure 17) and free the wheel
by turning the anchor pin either forward or backward. When
the wheel reaches its free point, tighten the lock nut.
16
Fig. 18—Inserting a .010” Feeler Between the Drum and
the Lining as a Final Check.
NOTE
Change the position of the anchor pin only when new
shoes or linings have been installed or when satisfactory
results are not obtained in the Minor Brake Adjustment.
J. Again tighten the brake by means of the star wheel adjustment
until the wheel is just locked, then loosen the adjustment
16 clicks: this procedure will provide proper lining clearance.
If desired, a .010 feeler gauge may be inserted between the
lining and the drum as a final check. (See figure 18.)
(Steps K-1, L-1, and M-1 following are for seven-passenger sedan,
limousine, hearse, and ambulance for rear wheels only.)
K-1. Loosen the eccentric lock nut and take up on the eccentric
until the wheel is tight, then back off the eccentric just until
the wheel turns freely and tighten the lock nut.
L-1. Loosen the anchor pin lock nut and turn the anchor pin in
the direction of forward wheel rotation until a drag is
noticeable when turning the wheel.
M-1. Turn the anchor pin in the opposite direction until the wheel
just becomes free and then tighten the lock nut.
K. After making sure that the high nib on the anchor screw is
at the rear of the slot (figure 17) reinstall the inspection and
adjusting hole covers and replace the wheels.
L. Road test the car.
17
Fig. 19—Mechanical Hand or Parking Brakes Affect
the Rear Wheels Only.
PARKING BRAKES
Parking brakes (figure 19) affect the rear wheels only. A pulling
force on the hand brake lever is transmitted to the hand brake
equalizer lever by means of a connecting cable and linkage arrange-
ment. Divided by the equalizer lever or “bridle,” this force is applied
equally through a cable to the shoe strut lever of each rear brake
assembly. The shoe strut lever (A, figure 20) is pinned to the
secondary shoe at point “B,” while the notched ends of the shoe
strut (C) bear against the primary shoe (D) forward, and against
the shoe strut lever at the rear and below the pivot plane. A force
applied to the linkage first engages the primary shoe, then, the
notched end of the shoe strut acting as a fulcrum, engages the
secondary shoe. The “self-energizing” principle will apply as
usual if the car is moving or has a tendency to move.
1. Lubricating the Parking Brakes
Disconnect the brake cables at the equalizer. Disconnect the cable
from the shoe strut lever and, after sliding the conduit forward,
apply Bendix Cable Lubricant sparingly to the cable. Now slide the
cable back to within about 2 inches of its connected position and
carefully wipe off excess lubricant before connecting. Following
this procedure prevents excess lubricant from finding its way to
the brake linings.
All points of contact between the brake support plate and the brake
shoes should be brushed sparingly with Lubriplate. Never use
grease or graphite as a lubricant for brake shoes or cables as these
materials will almost invariably find their way to the linings and
drums.
18
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Fig. 20—Showing Rear Brake Support Platé ‘and Parts Actuated
by the Hand or Parking Brake Lever.
BRAKE TROUBLES AND CORRECTIONS
1. Pedal Goes to Toe Board
A. Low Fluid Level
Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. A very low
reservoir fluid level is usually an indication of a leak somewhere
in the system. Examine the lines and cylinders carefully and correct
as necessary.
B. Brake Shoes Out of Adjustment
If pedal travel is excessive and the fluid level is normal, use ther
brake pedal to pump up the system. A solid pedal feel during and
following this procedure usually means that the brake shoes require
an adjustment.
C. Air in System
A soft, spongy pedal indicates that air has been admitted into the
system and that bleeding of the lines is necessary. (See “Brake
Fluid Lines”’—2.)
D. Internal Leakage of Master Cylinder
If under normal pedal force the brake pedal sinks slowly to the
toe board with no signs of external leakage, the master cylinder
probably needs reconditioning. (See “Master Cylinder”—1.)
19
E. Pedal Improperly Set
(See “Foot Brake Pedal”—1.)
Free travel of the brake pedal should be held to 14 to 14 inch before
pressure is reached. Excessive travel decreases the length of the
piston's active travel and will generally reduce effectiveness of
the brakes.
2. Al Brakes Drag
A. Shoes Adjusted too Closely
(See “Brake Adjustment”—1.)
B. Improper Pedal Setting
The master cylinder relief port must be open when the brakes are
released. Should this port be blocked by the primary piston cup,
the master cylinder cannot perform its compensating function.
Correct pedal adjustment will insure that this port is open on the
return stroke. (See “Foot Brake Pedal”—1.)
C. Mineral Oil in System
Engine oil, kerosene, anti-freeze containing rust inhibitor, or any
other fluid with a mineral base will attack natural rubber causing
it to become sticky and to swell and distort. Even so much as a trace
of these fluids will prove detrimental to natural rubber. If the
presence of oil in the hydraulic circuit is indicated, the rubber parts
should be replaced and the system drained and flushed thoroughly
with methyl alcohol. Always use Packard Brake Fluid for refilling.
(See “Brake Fluid Lines” —1.)
3. One Wheel Drags
A. Shoes Set too Close to Drum
(See “Brake Adjustment” —1.)
B. Weak or Broken Retracting Spring
‘Brake shoe retracting springs may become weak for several reasons.
They may have fatigued, taken a set, rusted excessively, or they may
have softened from too much heat. Retracting springs should be
replaced if any of these conditions exist.
C. Sticking Cylinder Pistons
Sometimes rust or foreign particles will cause pistons to stick in the
master or wheel cylinders. If this condition exists, check the cylinder
wall for scoring. (See “Master Cylinder”—1.)
If foreign ‘matter is discovered in the system or if the rubber parts
show distortion, flush the system and refill with clean Packard
Brake Fluid.
20
Fig. 21—After Refacing Drum Place Service Shims Between the
Linings and Shoes to Compensate for Metal Removed.
D. Loose Wheel Bearings
Front wheel bearings should be adjusted so that they neither bind
nor permit the wheels to shake.
On models which use a single adjusting nut, the nut should be
tightened to a torque of 20 ft. lbs., or snugly tightened with a 10-
inch wrench, backed off one hex, and the cotter pin installed. If the
cotter pin slot in the nut and the hole in the spindle do not line up
after the nut is backed off, the nut should be turned either forward
or back to line up with the slot closest to the hole in the spindle.
On models which use an inner and an outer adjusting nut and a
locking washer, the inner nut should be torqued or snugly tightened,
backed off 2 to 3 holes measured on the locking washer, the outer
nut tightened, and the cotter pin installed.
4. Soft, Spongy Pedal Action
A. Air in System
(See “Brake Fluid Lines —2.)
B. Improper Anchor Setting
If the setting of the anchor pin is disturbed, the relationship between
the lining surfaces and the drum will be changed. This generally
results in a tendency to spring the shoes and bear the lining against
the drum with poor pressure distribution. In addition, it will cause
greater pedal travel and, in most cases, dragging of the heel or toe
of the lining. If adjustment is necessary, see “Brake Adjustment”—2.
21
Fig. 22—When Assembling Front Brake Support Plate, Install
Retaining Screw with Raised Head in Plate Lower Rear Hole.
C. Lining Does Not Match Drum Diameter
If it has been necessary to reface the drum surface, be sure to place
a shim of the same thickness as the depth of cut between the linings
and shoes. See figure 21. If a shim is not used after drum refacing,
the arcs of the lining and drum surfaces will differ and the lining
will wear unevenly.
5. Car Pulls to One Side
A. Support Plate Loose on Axle
Loose support plates will allow the brake assembly to shift on the
locating bolts. This alters the relationship between the shoes and
the brake drum, causes unequal pressure distribution, and usually
results in grabbing of the shoes.
Tighten. the support plate and then readjust the shoes as described
under “Brake Adjustment”—2.
CAUTION
When assembling the front brake support plates, the re-
taining screw having the raised head should be installed in
the lower rear hole in the plate. See figure 22. This screw
acts as a stop and interchanging it with one of another
type will adversely affect the turning radius of the car.
B. Different Makes of Lining
Packard brake linings have been designed to do a specific job for a
specified Packard model and it is strongly recommended that they
be used exclusively for that job.
22
If it is necessary to install new brake linings at one wheel, always
duplicate the work on the opposite wheel.
C. Dust in Drum
Dust in the brake drums will impair braking efficiency. Clean all
drums with compressed air.
D. Tires Not Properly Inflated
Inflate tires to recommended pressure.
E. Weak Retracting Springs at One Wheel
(See “Brake Adjustment”—2.)
F. Restricted Flow of Fluid to Wheel Cylinder
Drain the system and check the internal condition of the three
rubber hoses. Sometimes 2 small rubber flap will develop on the
inner surface of a hose and will act as a check valve. Flush the system
and fill with Packard Brake Fluid.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Fig. 23—The Exhaust System Consists of Four Major Parts:
the Manifold, Pipe Assembly, Muffler, and the Outlet Tube.
GENERAL
The Packard Exhaust System (figure 23) consists of four major
parts:
1. The engine exhaust manifold
2. The exhaust pipe assembly
3. The exhaust muffler
4. The exhaust muffler outlet tube
23
REPLACEMENT OF PARTS
When exhaust gas leaks are evident, they will usually be found in
the exhaust pipe assembly, in the muffler, or in the muffler outlet
tube. Premature failure of any of the above mentioned parts may
justify replacement of only the part affected; however, if any of them
have rusted to the point of failure, it will generally prove more bene-
ficial both to the owner and to the shop to replace all of them at one
time.
Occasionally a leak will be found at an exhaust manifold gasket
and, if the leak cannot be stopped by tightening the manifold retain-
ing nuts to the specified torque, replacement of all exhaust gaskets
is necessary.
Check the condition of all flexible supports and if they have sagged,
replace them with new parts.
NEUTRALIZING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
When it is necessary to replace parts in the exhaust group the system
should be adjusted to clear anything that it might rattle against. To
keep the system from settling with normal road vibration, the fol-
lowing procedure is recommended:
Assemble the exhaust pipe, muffler, and outlet tube in position and
snugly tighten all connections. Start the engine and disconnect
three or four spark plug leads to make engine performance very
rough. After allowing the engine to run for a short time, turn off
the ignition switch and tighten all fittings. This procedure will allow
the system to seek its neutral position and eliminate rattles and
exhaust vibrations.
FUEL SYSTEM
FUEL TANK AND MAIN FUEL LINE
The fuel tank (figure 24) consists of two steel stampings or shells
roll-welded together at their flanges to form an integral unit. A
depression in the lower shell serves as a sump for water, dirt, and
foreign particles. To permit sump drainage, a copper plated boss
threaded for a drain plug is spun into the bottom of the sump de-
pression. |
The outlet tube is located in the central area of the tank in a trans-
verse depression in the lower shell. This tube, soldered to the tank
floor for a short distance, rises to a position in the forward wall just
below the seam line where it is soldered to a threaded, copper-
plated boss spun into the shell wall to provide the connection for
the main fuel line.
24
Fig. 24—Two Steel Stampings Roll-Welded Together at Their
Flanges Form the Fuel Tank Shell.
The filler pipe fits into a hole in the web of a support bracket on
the lower shell, the necessary rigid support of the filler pipe being
completed by soldering this member to its flanged opening in the
upper shell. As fuel is added to the tank, displaced air must be ex-
pelled through the vent whistle and the vent tube and into the upper
end of the filler pipe.
The large opening in the upper shell for the fuel gauge sending unit
incorporates a copper-plated reinforcement, drilled and tapped to
match mounting holes in the flange of the sending unit.
All parts used in the fuel tank assembly are either tern or copper
plated steel and, with the exception of the shell seam, all fuel tank
parts are soldered in position.
The main gasoline tube is flared at its tank end for connection to the
tank outlet tube boss, while a threaded male fitting is brazed to its
forward end. The fuel pump inlet hose, made of synthetic rubber,
provides the necessary flexible connection between the main gaso-
line tube clipped to the frame and the fuel pump which is mounted
on the engine.
FUEL GAUGE SYSTEM
The electric-bimetal type fuel gauge system employs a sending unit
at the fuel tank and a receiving unit at the instrument panel.
25
Fig. 25—Raise Sending Unit Float to Top Position and
Hold It There Until the Pointer Comes to Rest.
1. Checking the Fuel Tank Sending Unit
As two units are required to register the quantity of fuel in the tank,
it is logical practice to determine which of the two is at fault if the
gauge does not read correctly. Check all wiring at the terminals
and, if they are tight and the gauge pointer does not register cor-
rectly, the following procedure is recommended:
Select a new tank sending unit from stock and make up two insu-
lated test leads about 10 feet long, equipped with clip terminals at
each end.
After separating the wire at the connector under the left rear corner
of the trunk floor, clip one test lead to the end of the wire which leads
to the gauge unit and clip the opposite end to the terminal on the
stock sending unit. Clip the other lead from the flange of the stock
sending unit to ground, completing the fuel gauge circuit. Now turn
on the ignition switch. Raise the sending unit float by hand to its
top position (figure 25) and hold it there until the gauge pointer
comes to rest. The pointer should register at the “F” mark on the
gauge. Now lower the float to its bottom position; the pointer
should rest at the “E” mark. |
If the gauge pointer registers properly, this localizes the trouble in
the tank sending unit and the unit should be replaced.
If the gauge pointer registers improperly or doesn't register at all,
the trouble 1s in the instrument panel receiving unit and its replace-
ment will be necessary, Check the new receiving unit with the stock
sending unit before installing it in the instrument panel.
26
ES UNS EEE Ee == = —
Fig. 26—The Frame Side Channels Are Reinforced by a Deep *X"
Member and Various Cross and Secondary Members.
FRAME
GENERAL
Double drop side channels, five lateral cross members, a deep,
tapered “X” member, and various secondary members are riveted
and welded in position to make up the Packard frame structure.
See figure 26.
Conventional enclosed models absorb a good part of the road
stresses through their body panels making heavy frame reinforce-
ment unnecessary except for those models having an exceptionally
long wheelbase. The additional weight of the long wheelbase
models, along with the longer span of their side channels, makes it
necessary to reinforce these frames heavily to counteract the result-
ing greater bending and twisting moments.
Convertibles need extra-heavily reinforced frames since they have
fewer body panels capable of helping out with road stresses.
FRAME ALIGNMENT
A distorted frame is usually caused by collision. As many different
makes and types of straightening equipment are available and many
specialized problems are involved, full coverage of frame repair is
beyond the scope of this manual. However, a few general notes
apply to any Packard frame aligning job.
Local use of heat is usually necessary when realigning frames, but
the temperature of the area heated should remain below 1200°F
27
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The Frame Chart following includes frame checking dimensions
for all 22nd Series models.
FRAME DIMENSIONS —22ND SERIES
DIMEN-
2201-02-
SION 11-32-40 2220-22 2206-33 2226 2213
A 36 30116 36 . 36146 3648
B 29 29 29 29 29
C 47%s 47% 47% 47% 55%
D 45% 45% 45% 45% 45%
E 56% 561546 56% 56156 561546
F 48 481/16 4816 48116 4816
G 43%s 43% 50%s 50% 50546
H 3034 3034 3034 3034 30%
J 431516 641516 431516 541546 721546
K 64% 64% 64% 64% 74%
L 6% 6 6% 6 6% 63/6 536
M 11% 1154 1 1% 11% Ш 10346
N 41% 4% 415 41 3146
P 2516 2946 2516 2916 414
R 531546 531516 531546 531516 531546
S 537% 53% 53% 53% 53%
T 14% 1454 1454 14% 24%
(cherry red away from direct light). A greater temperature may
weaken the member at this point and allow it to fail under normal
loads.
Keep heat away from the rear spring shackle brackets as these
members are tempered to perform a specific job important to rear
suspension.
Replacing sheared or distorted rivets will sometimes introduce
difficult rivet bucking problems. It is permissible to ream rivet
holes to the next larger bolt size and to use S.A.E. thread bolts and
nuts to replace rivets. If this 1s done, do not use lockwashers. Burr
the bolt threads or peen them over to permanently lock the nut.
The “X” member is the basic “tie in” member of the frame structure,
and is held in position for assembling by means of a heavy fixture.
A new frame should be installed if this member cannot be straight-
ened while still attached to the side channels or if it has been dam-
aged beyond repair.
Lateral cross members may be replaced if necessary.
Fig. 27—Showing the Three Basic Types of Universal
Joint and Propeller Shaft Assemblies.
UNIVERSAL JOINT AND
PROPELLER SHAFT
GENERAL
Shaft assembly “A” (figure 27) shows a universal joint and pro-
peller shaft assembly of the type used on 120-inch and 127-inch-
wheelbase vehicles without overdrive. This assembly incorporates
30
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Fig. 28—The “Mechanics” Universal Joints Incorporate a Journal
Cross, Two Round and Two Wing Type Bearing Retainers.
a single shaft with a universal joint at each end. The front universal
joint is attached to the flange of an internally splined slip yoke
which is free to move in a fore and aft direction on the externally
splined transmission driving shaft.
Shaft assembly “B” (figure 27) shows a universal joint and shaft
assembly of the type used on 120-inch and 127-inch wheelbase
vehicles equipped with an overdrive. In this assembly, the shaft has
a universal joint at its rearward end and a slip yoke and universal
joint assembly at its forward end. The front universal joint is at-
tached to a driving shaft lange which is not free to move on the
overdrive main shaft, the fore and aft movememt of the propeller
shaft being compensated for in the slip yoke. On overdrive equipped
vehicles, the propeller shaft may be either a “Mechanics” or a
“Spicer” shaft assembly.
Shaft assembly “C” (figure 27) illustrates the two-section propeller
shaft, universal joint, and intermediate bearing assemblies used on
long wheelbase vehicles. The rear shaft assembly is similar to that
used on overdrive equipped vehicles in that shaft fore and aft travel
is compensated for in the slip yoke assembly at the forward end of
the shaft. The front shaft or “jackshaft” assembly incorporates a
universal joint which attaches to the transmission (or overdrive, if
so equipped) driving flange at the forward end. The rearward end
of the shaft rotates in a ball bearing in the intermediate bearing
and support assembly. The shaft is splined at the rear to accom-
modate a flange for attaching the universal joint and slip yoke of
the rear shaft assembly.
All universal joints are of the needle roller bearing type. The
“Mechanics” universal joints (figure 28) incorporate a journal
31
Fig. 29—The “Spicer” Universal Joint Consists of a Journal Cross
and Four Round Type Bearing Retainers.
Fig. 30—Wire the Wing Type Bearings Together Before
Removing the Assembly from the Car.
cross, two round type bearing retainers held in position by snap
rings, and two flanged or wing type retainers. The “Spicer” joint
(figure 29) consists of a journal cross and four round bearing re-
tainers held in position by snap rings.
DISASSEMBLY
Wire the wing type bearing retainers together (figure 30), dis-
engage the lockplate tabs, loosen the cap screws which hold the
joint shaft assembly to the flanges at each end, and remove the
assembly from the car.
32
Fig. 31—Removing Snap Ring from Round Type Retainer
(Mechanics Universal Joint Shown).
Fig. 32— After Removing Round Type Bearing Retainers,
Lift Out the Journal Cross as Shown.
Wash the journal cross, the bearing retainers, and the needles in
gasoline or kerosene and examine them carefully for wear, brinnel-
ing and flat surfaces. If the bearing surfaces or needles show the
effects of considerable wear, it is best to discard the entire cross
and bearing assembly and replace with new parts.
The Spicer type joint and shaft assembly is disassembled in the same
way except that round type retainers are used exclusively. These
are held in position by means of snap rings which may be removed
with snap ring pliers, KMO-630.
33
If the car is equipped with overdrive, loosen the dust cap from the
slip yoke and slide the slip yoke from the shaft.
Remove the snap rings from the two round retainers at each yoke
as shown in figure 31. Using a soft, flat faced drift of slightly smaller
diameter than the bearing retainer, tap the upper retainer until the
lower retainer is forced out of the yoke. Turn the shaft so that the
remaining retainer is at the bottom and tap on the exposed end of
the journal cross until this retainer is forced out of the yoke. Now
cut the retaining wire, slip off the wing type retainers (always from
the bottom) and lift out each journal cross as shown in figure 32.
Fig. 33—Forcing the Round Type Bearing Retainers Into
Position with a Soft Hammer.
ASSEMBLY
For the Mechanics universal joint, repack the needle bearing re-
tainers with regular chassis pressure gun grease. (Spicer assemblies
are provided with a fitting at the journal cross for lubrication.)
After inserting each journal cross in its yoke by reversing the dis-
assembly procedure, force the round type retainers into position
with a soft hammer (figure 33) or press in position with an arbor
press. If the bearing will not force on fairly easily, check to see if a
needle has dropped out of position, jamming at the cross journal.
Install the snap rings and, if assembling a Mechanics type joint,
slip on the wing type bearings and wire them in position as shown
in figure 30. Now bolt the joint and shaft assembly to its mating
flanges to complete the installation.
CAUTION
When assembling the slip yoke to the shaft it is necessary
that the arrow on the slip yoke aligns with the arrow on the
34
yl |
Fig. 34—Be Sure that the Arrow on the Slip Yoke Aligns
with the Arrow on the Shaft.
"X" MEMBER
BRACKET
a | \
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Fig. 35—Intermediate Bearing and Bracket Assembly Used
in 21st Series Long Wheelbase Models.
shaft. See figure 34. When this is done the trunnions will
be lined up properly and excessive vibration and malfunc-
tioning of the assembly will be prevented.
INTERMEDIATE BEARING
Figure 35 shows the intermediate bearing and bracket assembly
used on the 22nd: Series seven-passenger sedan, limousine, hearse
and ambulance.
35
YOKES ON FRONT YOKES ON REAR SHAFT
SHAFT IN LINE IN LINE AND AT RIGHT
ANGLE TO YOKES ON
FRONT SHAFT
Fig. 36—Journal Crosses of All Three Universal Joints
Must Be in Correct Alignment.
To replace the intermediate bearing in these long wheelbase
models, remove the rear axle universal joint flange cap screws,
those for the transmission universal joint flange, and the inter-
mediate bearing bracket bolts. After this has been done, remove
both front and rear propeller shafts and the intermediate bearing
bracket from the car as an assembly.
Remove the intermediate universal joint. Take off the universal
joint flange retaining nut at the rear of the forward shaft, slip off
the flange and dust shield, and slide the intermediate bearing and
bracket off the end of the shaft. Now press the bearing and its rub-
ber retainer from the sleeve in the bracket and discard them. Inspect
the condition of the rubber pads bonded to the rear of the bracket.
If the bond has let go or if the pads have deteriorated badly discard
the bracket and replace it with a new one.
To assemble the bearing, first lubricate the outside of the race or
the inside of the retainer with brake fluid, then pull the synthetic
rubber retainer over the race. Lubricate the outside of the retainer
or the inside of the bracket sleeve with brake fluid and push the
bearing and retainer into the sleeve of the bracket.
Slide the assembled bearing and bracket over the shaft splines into
position, making sure that the race butts securely against the for-
ward dust shield flange. Apply a thin but thorough coating of Lubri-
plate to the shaft splines and slip the flange on the shaft, using
extreme care to line up the journal cross bearings with those in the
forward universal joint. |
Install the universal joints, the propeller shafts, and the intermediate
bearing and bracket in the car, making sure that all three universal
joints are in correct alignment. See figure 36. Be sure also that the
intermediate bearing bracket is installed with the bearing above
center, since spacing of the bolt holes is such that the bracket could
36
X-MEMBER
INSULATOR
BRACKET
INSULATOR
WASHER 9 —<X e
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Fig. 37 —Intermediate Bearing and Bracket Assembly Used :
in 22nd Series Long Wheelbase Models.
be installed upside down. Tighten all universal joint flange cap
screws and take up snugly on the intermediate bracket bolts.
Raise the rear wheels off the floor and run the car in gear to check
for shaft alignment. Adjust the bracket if necessary and when the
shaft alignment is satisfactory, tighten the bracket bolts to the
recommended torque. (See the torque chart at the back of this
manual.)
With the exception of the bearing-bracket installation, disassembly,
assembly, and installation procedures for 21st Series seven-pas-
senger sedan, limousine, hearse and ambulance are similar to those
previously outlined for 22nd Series long wheelbase models.
When installing the bearing and bracket assembly, first make sure
that the rubber insulators and washers are centered around the
spacers—then tighten the retaining nuts just enough to hold the
metal flat washers securely against the inner end of the spacers.
See figure 37. Overtightening the nuts will buckle the spacers and
cause distortion of the rubber insulators. If the cotter pin openings
in the bolt and nut do not line up after the nuts are properly set,
either file down the seating face of the nut or try different nuts of
the same size until the openings will take the cotter pin.
When the bracket is properly installed, the rubber insulators and
rubber washers will be only slightly compressed and it should be
possible to move the bracket up and down or sideways by hand.
If any of the metal spacers are buckled, the rubber parts will be
distorted thus destroying the “floating” principle and tending to
set up a roughness or disturbance in the functioning of the propeller
shaft assembly.
37
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Fig. 38—Cutaway View of Spicer Universal Joint. Note
Oil Reservoirs in Journal Cross.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
All universal joint and propeller shaft assemblies are inspected to a
reasonable, specified static and dynamic out of balance tolerance
before acceptance by the Factory. For this reason, if severe vibration
is encountered, it is probably caused either by a damaged propeller
shaft, worn needles, or worn or brinneled bearing surfaces. The
latter failure usually results from lack of bearing lubricant.
To check for worn universal bearings, rock the propeller shaft by
hand. Excessive bearing wear will show up readily by this method
since only a few thousandths of an inch of backlash should be
apparent if the bearings are in good condition.
LUBRICATION
It 1s recommended that Mechanics type universal joints be dis-
assembled, inspected, and the bearings packed with regular chassis
gun grease at intervals of 30,000 miles.
The Spicer universal joint bearing assemblies should be lubricated
at 1000-mile intervals or whenever the chassis is lubricated. These
assemblies are held in position by snap rings, and unlike the
Mechanics universals, may be lubricated by means of an external
fitting provided for this purpose. S.A.E. 140 oil is forced into the
cross journal reservoirs through the fitting and oil channels (figure
38) at the time of chassis lubrication. These reservoirs feed their
supply of oil to the needle bearings by means of centrifugal force.
38
Fig. 39—Slender Nozzled Adaptors Are Required to Reach
the Fitting in the Spicer Journal Cross.
CAUTION
Chassis grease should never be used for lubrication of
Spicer cross bearings. The high viscosity of this material
would seriously hamper the centrifugal force feeding
method used to lubricate the needle bearing assemblies and
might result in their failure.
An adapter with a slender nozzle, similar to those shown in figure
39, is required to reach the fitting in the Spicer journal cross.
— SPRINGS
LOAD AND RATE
The capacity or load of a helical or coil compression spring is the
maximum static load it will support and still not deflect below the
designed riding height. The rate of a helical or coil compression
spring is the load necessary to compress it one inch. A coil spring
has a constant rate, that is: if the rate happened to be 100 pounds
per inch, 200 pounds would compress it two inches, 300 pounds,
3 inches, and so on.
In the Packard front suspension the spring rate is taken from the
wheel and not directly from the spring itself. The difference in the
distance from the wheel to the pivot and from the pivot to the springs
sets up a mechanical advantage or leverage which multiplies the
actual spring rate. The front spring rates in the parts list are there-
fore considerably lower than the true rates of the coil springs;
however, the rates appearing in the parts list are the ones to con-
sider when ordering replacement springs.
39
Fig. 40—Liner Type Leaf Springs. Note that Liners Extend
the Full Length of Leaves.
Fig. 41—Insert Type Leaf Springs. Note that Button
Inserts Âre Positioned at Ends of Leaves Only.
The load of a leaf spring is, like the coil spring, the maximum load
it will support and still not deflect below the designed riding height.
The rate of an elliptical leaf spring, however, unlike the coil spring,
is not constant. It builds up as the spring is depressed, so the rate of
a leaf spring is defined as the load necessary to depress it the first
inch below the designed riding height.
REAR SPRINGS
GENERAL
Packard rear springs are made of a manganese steel alloy and are of
the semi-elliptical type. Spring steel brackets riveted to the frame
and a rubber bushing and link arrangement combine to shackle
the springs in position. U-bolts hold the rear axle tightly to the rear
springs, the thrust and braking forces from the wheels being trans-
mitted to the frame through the rear axle, springs, shackles, and
the spring mounting brackets.
Two types of leaf separators are in service—the liner type and the
button or insert type.
40
Figure 40 shows leaf springs with liner type separators installed.
The liners are made of a paper board core wrapped in cloth and
impregnated with wax.
Rubber, silenite, and antimony-lead alloy inserts separate the leaves |
in the button type leaf spring. See figure 41. The long upper leaves
incorporate the rubber inserts, and operate with the lowest friction
for light loads, while progressively heavier loads bring the shorter
leaves and higher friction separators into operation.
LINER TYPE SPRINGS
The two upper liner tips will normally wear before the rest since
the end travel distance is greater and the movement of the upper
leaves is repeated more times than that of the other leaves. Rear
spring liner insert kit, part number 410462, supplies liner inserts
designed to replace the liner ends in the two upper spring leaves.
The procedure recommended for this repair follows:
1. The following equipment is required.
A liner kit (410462)
A hardwood wedge
A hacksaw blade
Make the hardwood wedge from a block 5 inches long, 114 inch
wide, and % inch thick, then taper the end from 34 inch to % inch
along a length of about 2 inches. Grind down the back of the hack-
saw blade at the forward end until it is about LA inch wide for a
length of four inches.
2. Remove the spring clips.
3. Raise the rear end of the car until no load is on the springs.
4. Mark off the length of the liner tip on the top spring leaf,
allowing the end to extend 14 inch beyond the end of the
second leaf.
5. Spread the ends of the springs and, after placing a piece of
sheet metal over the liner for its protection, pry the leaves
apart where the replacement part is needed. Insert the wedge
under the liner just beyond the point where the old liner is
to be cut off. See figure 42.
6. With the hacksaw tool, saw off the worn section of the liner
previously marked.
7. Place the new liner insert between the spring leaves with the
tongue upward and with the metal tipped end extending be-
yond the end of the lower spring about /4 inch. Be sure that
41
Fig. 42—Showing Wedging of Spring Leaves Just Prior to
Sawing Off Worn Liner Tip.
¿MP RUBBER
SILENITE
= ANTIMONY LEAD (5%)
—
—]] —[ и ‚
— 1 ANTIMONY LEAD (23%)
E
ча
Fig. 43—Correct Placement of Button Inserts in Insert
Type Leaf Spring.
the tongue and rubber button on the insert fit into the groove
in the upper leaf, then remove the wedge and sheet metal
carefully so that the new liner tip will remain in position.
INSERT TYPE SPRINGS
Figure 43 shows the correct locations of the button inserts in this
type of leaf spring. A clearance of from Visto a heavy 142 inch between
leaf tips is considered satisfactory with the car standing at rest.
If annoying spring squeaks are apparent even though the leaves
have adequate clearance, the trouble is probably caused by oxidation
of the bearing surface of the antimony-lead inserts.
42
Fig. 44—Take the Insert Out of the Retainer After Removing the
Retainer from Its Seat in the Leaf.
If replacement or clean-up of the inserts is necessary, raise the rear
end of the car so that the wheels clear the floor, relieving the springs
of the weight of the car. If the rubber and Silenite inserts have worn
excessively as determined by the previous inspection, remove the
spring clips, wedge the leaves apart for working space, and replace
the worn inserts. To recondition the antimony-lead inserts, wedge
the leaves apart, one end of each leaf at a time, and remove the insert
and its retainer. Take the insert out of the retainer (figure 44) and
remove the black oxide from the insert bearing surface with a file.
Examine the retainer. If it is distorted or if the rubber seal is dam-
aged, it should be replaced. Now fill the retainer with grease and
reinstall the insert in the retainer. After filing the antimony-lead
oxide from the bearing surface of the spring above, reinstall the
insert and retainer and remove the wedge. Repeat this process
until all inserts and spring bearing surfaces have been reconditioned.
REAR SPRING MAINTENANCE
If the main or upper leaf is damaged or broken it may be replaced.
However, if any of the shorter leaves have failed it is advisable to
install an entirely new spring assembly. The liner type spring may
be used on either side in place of the insert type. It is not necessary
to replace the rear spring assemblies in pairs as interchanging will
not affect the ride.
Never spray the springs when lubricating the car because oil will
deteriorate the liners, both rubber and Silenite inserts, and rubber
insulated spring clamps.
43
RIDE
GENERAL
The “flat ride” experienced on Packard cars when the suspension
system is functioning properly minimizes pitch, yaw, sway or “roll,”
and wheel bounce—the four major “ride” factors.
Pitching and bouncing tendencies are held to a minimum by use
of the low friction coil springs at the front suspension and high
friction leaf springs at the rear suspension. Both springing systems
work in conjunction with the shock absorbers at each wheel. The
difference in the amount of friction in the actions of the front and
rear springs moves the “center of pitch” from the center of gravity
(where it would normally be if the rate of oscillation of both
springs were the same) back to a theoretical point far beyond the
rear springs. Shock absorbers at each spring soften and retard the
springing action and complete the wheel suspension.
Sway and yaw tendencies are minimized by a lateral or fifth shock
absorber running from a point on the frame to a point on the
opposite leaf spring at the rear, and by a roll control bar or stabilizer
at the front suspension.
Sometimes a ride complaint is reported by an owner when the
trouble may be something entirely different from ride, so it is
always a good idea to take the owner along on a road test.
FRICTION LAG
Friction lag of the front and rear suspensions may be checked in
the following manner:
Stick a piece of adhesive tape on both the front and the rear bumper
and put a pencil reference mark on each piece of tape. Lift the car
by the rear bumper by hand as high as is reasonably possible and
slowly and gently lower it until it stops. (Try to make it remain as
high as possible.) Now measure from the reference mark to the
floor and record the measurement. Next, push the bumper down as
far as possible and ease off gently. (Try to make it remain as low
as possible.) Now measure this distance and subtract it from the
first measurement. The difference is friction lag. Repeat this oper-
ation two or three times, checking for a consistant measurement,
then do the same for the front end.
The ideal friction lag would be zero, but friction lag of about one
inch is acceptable.
Before a car has been run approximately 3000 miles, the friction
lag of the front suspension will vary because of “new car stiffness,”
but the rear end should show a low friction lag even at the time of
delivery.
44
NEUTRALIZING THE REAR SUSPENSION
If there is more than one inch friction lag at the rear suspension,
the trouble is probably either in the rubber suspension bushings
or in the shock absorbers.
Loosen the rear spring shackles, the axle U-bolts, and the front eye
bolts. Loosen the shock absorbers at the top and disconnect the
bottom ends from the studs. This is a good time to check the front
shock absorbers for low fluid level and air bubbles, and both front
and rear shocks for smooth action.
NOTE
Two direct acting airplane type hydraulic shock absorbers
are used in the Packard rear suspension. Maintenance of
rear shock absorbers consist of replacing leaking or dam-
aged units with new units since their construction is such
that they can neither be refilled nor repaired.
Connect the rear shock absorbers loosely and, while all the rubber
bushings are loose at both suspensions and the U-bolts are loose,
tighten the spring shackles and eye bolts. Draw them up tight so
that the bolt shoulders seat on the brackets and make sure the
springs are centered.
Next, tighten the U-bolts evenly being careful not to take them up
tightly enough to bend the plates and throw the shock studs out of
line.
Line up the shock studs by shifting the lower plate and, if necessary,
bend the upper stud carefully with a piece of pipe.
Tighten the shock absorber studs being careful not to take them up
too tightly since this is liable to put too much pressure on the rubber
bushing and set up excessive friction lag.
Now check the friction lag again and, if within the required limits,
road test the car as a final check.
45
TIRES
TIRE PRESSURE
Tires of the low pressure type are designed to function at the higher
pressure build-up which will occur in both normal city driving and
high speed driving. A pressure greater than that recommended
should never be bled off until the tires have cooled to outside tem-
perature.
Tires should be checked to the recommended cold pressure every
week and the importance of this should be impressed upon the
owner.
TIRE THUMP
Thumping tires are usually the result of one of the following con-
ditions: incorrect tire installation or faulty manufacture. A good
procedure to follow for checking for either condition is to inflate
all tires to 55 pounds and drive the car on a smooth stretch of high-
way or street for a reasonable distance (about one city block). Then
bleed one tire to recommended pressure and repeat the process,
deflating one tire at a time until the thump has been localized.
If no thump is noticeable after all tires have been deflated to recom-
mended pressure, the chances are that one or more tires were
improperly installed and the tubes had not had a chance to seat
properly.
CAUTION
When installing tires, always inflate them to 55 pounds
cold pressure, then bleed them back to the recommended
pressure,
If the thump has been isolated to one or more tires by the above
method, it means that a stiff spot has probably been molded in the
carcass at manufacture and that it or they should be replaced.
46
TIGHTENING
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Thread
Function Sixe
BODY
Body hold down bolt (hard top cars)... 3-16
Body hold down bolt (convertibles).... 33-16
BRAKES
Cylinder screw.................... e... 6-18
Equalizer lever link nut........... e... %-24
Master cylinder screw.......e...e.ee... %-16
34-24
716-20
Master cylinder to pedal connecting rod
Nut. 000050000090 000,0 00000202 00.0. 0200 7416-20
Rear wheel cable to support plate screw. 544-24
Shoe anchor pin nut........... ea 54-18
Support plate (front) screw nut........ 14-20
Support plate (rear) screw nut......... 34-24
BUMPERS
Assy. to frame bolt nut. ............... 14-20
Guard to impact bar bolt (rear)........ 3-24
Guard to impact bar bolt nut........... 15-20
Guard to impact bar screw............. 36-16
Impact bar bracket bolt............... 14-20
Impact bar carriage bolt. .............. 34-24
Impact bar panel bolt.. ....€W...000%5 14-28
Support to impact bar bolt (front). . ...... 14-20
Support to frame bracket bolt (rear).... 34-24
EXHAUST
Muffler and outlet tube support bolt. ... 56-18
Muffler outlet tube support assy. bolt nut 5456-24
Muffler support “U” bolt............... 546-18
Pipe to manifold screw............... 34-24
Pipe to manifold screw..........eseeo. %-16
Pipe to flywheel housing support bolt... 34-16
Pipe to flywheel housing bracket bolt
47
Torque
Lbs. Ft.
Min.
12
20
15
25
25
25
55
25
15
85
65
35
65
25
. 65
25
65
25
7.5
65
25
12
12
12
25
18
25
15
Torque
Lbs. Ft,
Max.
15
23
18
30
30
30
60
30
18
90
75
40
75
30
75
30
75
30
8.5
75
30
15
15
15
30
20
30
18
TIGHTENING
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
(Continued)
Function Thread
Size
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
Lock nut and Stud NUL. ....eeeocsccoooo 14-20
~~ REAR SPRING
Bushing bolt and shackle locknut...... 14-20
Bushing bolt and shackle locknut..... . 946-18
STABILIZER
Assy. front to frame bolt............... 746-20
Tube assy. (lateral) to rear axle nut.... 1%-20
UNIVERSAL JOINT
Shaft assembly screw............... ... SAg-24
Shaft trunnion bearing bracket......... 34-16
Support bolt nut.........eooeoccscocoo 34-24
Shaft trunnion bearing bracket support
bolt nut.....e..oceeo.ereroncorvreoocroos 516-24
WHEELS
Wheel boltS......000000000000 0000000008 96-18
48
Torque
Lbs, Ft.
Min.
65
65
70
55
65
18
200
25
15
85
Torque
Lbs, Fe,
Max.
75
75
75
60
70
22
225
‚30
18
95
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CHASSIS
SPECIFICATIONS
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