Kawasaki KX85 - is a high-performance, liquid-cooled, 2-stroke motorcycle designed for motocross racing. It features a powerful 84cc engine, a 6-speed transmission, and a durable frame. The KX85 - is equipped with a KIPS (Kawasaki Integrated Powervalve System) which helps optimize power delivery throughout the rev range. With its lightweight design and adjustable suspension, the KX85 - offers precise handling and a responsive ride.
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KX85
KX85-II
KX100
Motorcycle
Service Manual
This quick reference guide will assist you in locating a desired topic or procedure.
•Bend the pages back to match the black tab of the desired chapter number with the black tab on the edge at each table of contents page.
•Refer to the sectional table of contents for the exact pages to locate the specific topic required.
Quick Reference Guide
Engine Removal/Installation 7 j
Engine Bottom End/Transmission 8 j
KX85
KX85-II
KX100
Motorcycle
Service Manual
All rights reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Quality Assurance Division/Motorcycle & Engine Company/Kawasaki
Heavy Industries, Ltd., Japan.
No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions in this publication, although every possible care has been taken to make it as complete and accurate as possible.
The right is reserved to make changes at any time without prior notice and without incurring an obligation to make such changes to products manufactured previously. See your Motorcycle dealer for the latest information on product improvements incorporated after this publication.
All information contained in this publication is based on the latest product information available at the time of publication. Illustrations and photographs in this publication are intended for reference use only and may not depict actual model component parts.
© 2013 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.
1st Edition (0) : May 17, 2013
ft g gal h
HP in.
°C
CDI cmHg cu in.
DC
F
°F
A
ABDC
AC
Ah
ATDC
BBDC
BDC
BTDC
AU
CA
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
ampere(s) after bottom dead center alternating current ampere hour after top dead center before bottom dead center bottom dead center before top dead center degree(s) Celsius
Capacitor Discharge Ignition centimeters of mercury cubic inch(s) direct current farad(s) degree(s) Fahrenheit foot, feet gram(s) gallon(s) hour(s) horsepower(s) inch(s) oz
Pa
PS psi r qt rpm
KIPS km/h
L lb m min mph
N s
TDC
TIR
V
W
Ω
Kawasaki Integrated Powervalve System kilometers per hour liter(s) pound(s) meter(s) minute(s) miles per hour newton(s) ounce(s) pascal(s) horsepower pound(s) per square inch quart(s) revolution revolution(s) perminute second(s) top dead center total indicator reading volt(s) watt(s) ohm(s)
Australia
Canada
COUNTRY AND AREA CODES
EUR
US
Europe
United States
Foreword
This manual is designed primarily for use by trained mechanics in a properly equipped shop.
However, it contains enough detail and basic information to make it useful to the owner who desires to perform his own basic maintenance and repair work. A basic knowledge of mechanics, the proper use of tools, and workshop procedures must be understood in order to carry out maintenance and repair satisfactorily. Whenever the owner has insufficient experience or doubts his ability to do the work, all adjustments, maintenance, and repair should be carried out only by qualified mechanics.
In order to perform the work efficiently and to avoid costly mistakes, read the text, thoroughly familiarize yourself with the procedures before starting work, and then do the work carefully in a clean area. Whenever special tools or equipment are specified, do not use makeshift tools or equipment. Precision measurements can only be made if the proper instruments are used, and the use of substitute tools may adversely affect safe operation.
To get the longest life out of your vehicle:
•
Follow the Periodic Maintenance Chart in the
Service Manual.
•
Be alert for problems and non-scheduled maintenance.
•
Use proper tools and genuine Kawasaki Motorcycle parts. Special tools, gauges, and testers that are necessary when servicing
Kawasaki motorcycles are introduced by the
Service Manual. Genuine parts provided as spare parts are listed in the Parts Catalog.
•
Follow the procedures in this manual carefully. Don’t take shortcuts.
•
Remember to keep complete records of maintenance and repair with dates and any new parts installed.
How to Use This Manual
In this manual, the product is divided into its major systems and these systems make up the manual’s chapters. The Quick Reference
Guide shows you all of the product’s system and assists in locating their chapters. Each chapter in turn has its own comprehensive Table of Contents.
For example, if you want ignition coil information, use the Quick Reference Guide to locate the Electrical System chapter. Then, use the
Table of Contents on the first page of the chapter to find the Ignition Coil section.
Whenever you see symbols, heed their instructions! Always follow safe operating and maintenance practices.
DANGER
DANGER indicates a hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury.
WARNING
WARNING indicates a hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury.
NOTICE
NOTICE is used to address practices not related to personal injury.
This manual contains four more symbols which will help you distinguish different types of information.
NOTE
○
NOTE indicates information that may help or guide you in the operation or service of the vehicle.
•
Indicates a procedural step or work to be done.
○
Indicates a procedural sub-step or how to do the work of the procedural step it follows. It also precedes the text of a NOTE.
Indicates a conditional step or what action to take based on the results of the test or inspection in the procedural step or sub-step it follows.
In most chapters an exploded view illustration of the system components follows the Table of
Contents. In these illustrations you will find the instructions indicating which parts require specified tightening torque, oil, grease or a locking agent during assembly.
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-1
General Information
Table of Contents
1
1-2 GENERAL INFORMATION
Before Servicing
Before starting to perform an inspection service or carry out a disassembly and reassembly operation on a motorcycle, read the precautions given below. To facilitate actual operations, notes, illustrations, photographs, cautions, and detailed descriptions have been included in each chapter wherever necessary. This section explains the items that require particular attention during the removal and reinstallation or disassembly and reassembly of general parts.
Especially note the following:
Edges of Parts
Lift large or heavy parts wearing gloves to prevent injury from possible sharp edges on the parts.
Solvent
Use a high flash-point solvent when cleaning parts. High flash-point solvent should be used according to directions of the solvent manufacturer.
Cleaning Vehicle before Disassembly
Clean the vehicle thoroughly before disassembly. Dirt or other foreign materials entering into sealed areas during vehicle disassembly can cause excessive wear and decrease performance of the vehicle.
Arrangement and Cleaning of Removed Parts
Disassembled parts are easy to confuse. Arrange the parts according to the order the parts were disassembled and clean the parts in order prior to assembly.
Before Servicing
Storage of Removed Parts
After all the parts including subassembly parts have been cleaned, store the parts in a clean area. Put a clean cloth or plastic sheet over the parts to protect from any foreign materials that may collect before re-assembly.
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-3
Inspection
Reuse of worn or damaged parts may lead to serious accident. Visually inspect removed parts for corrosion, discoloration, or other damage. Refer to the appropriate sections of this manual for service limits on individual parts. Replace the parts if any damage has been found or if the part is beyond its service limit.
Replacement Parts
Replacement parts must be KAWASAKI genuine or recommended by KAWASAKI. Gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, grease seals, circlips, cotter pins or self-locking nuts must be replaced with new ones whenever disassembled.
Assembly Order
In most cases assembly order is the reverse of disassembly, however, if assembly order is provided in this Service
Manual, follow the procedures given.
Tightening Sequence
Generally, when installing a part with several bolts, nuts, or screws, start them all in their holes and tighten them to a snug fit. Then tighten them according to the specified sequence to prevent case warpage or deformation which can lead to malfunction. Conversely when loosening the bolts, nuts, or screws, first loosen all of them by about a quarter turn and then remove them. If the specified tightening sequence is not indicated, tighten the fasteners alternating diagonally.
1-4 GENERAL INFORMATION
Before Servicing
Tightening Torque
Incorrect torque applied to a bolt, nut, or screw may lead to serious damage. Tighten fasteners to the specified torque using a good quality torque wrench. Often, the tightening sequence is followed twice-initial tightening and final tightening with torque wrench.
All of the tightening torque values are for use with dry, solvent - cleaned threads unless otherwise indicated. If a fastener which should have dry, clean threads gets contaminated with lubricant, etc., applying even the specified torque could damage it.
Force
Use common sense during disassembly and assembly, excessive force can cause expensive or hard to repair damage. When necessary, remove screws that have a non
-permanent locking agent applied using an impact driver.
Use a plastic-faced mallet whenever tapping is necessary.
Gasket, O-ring
Hardening, shrinkage, or damage of both gaskets and O-rings after disassembly can reduce sealing performance.
Remove old gaskets and clean the sealing surfaces thoroughly so that no gasket material or other material remains. Install new gaskets and replace used
O-rings when re-assembling.
Liquid Gasket, Non-permanent Locking Agent
For applications that require Liquid Gasket or a
Non-permanent Locking Agent, clean the surfaces so that no oil residue remains before applying liquid gasket or non-permanent locking agent. Do not apply them excessively. Excessive application can clog oil passages and cause serious damage.
Press
For items such as bearings or oil seals that must be pressed into place, apply small amount of oil to the contact area. Be sure to maintain proper alignment and use smooth movements when installing.
Before Servicing
Ball Bearing and Needle Bearing
Do not remove pressed ball or needle unless removal is absolutely necessary. Replace with new ones whenever removed. Press bearings with the manufacturer and size marks facing out. Press the bearing into place by putting pressure on the correct bearing race as shown.
Pressing the incorrect race can cause pressure between the inner and outer race and result in bearing damage.
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-5
Oil Seal, Grease Seal
Do not remove pressed oil or grease seals unless removal is necessary. Replace with new ones whenever removed.
Press new oil seals with manufacture and size marks facing out. Make sure the seal is aligned properly when installing.
Apply specified grease to the lip of seal before installing the seal.
Circlips, Cotter Pins
Replace circlips or cotter pins that were removed with new ones. Take care not to open the clip excessively when installing to prevent deformation.
Lubrication
It is important to lubricate rotating or sliding parts during assembly to minimize wear during initial operation. Lubrication points are called out throughout this manual, apply the specific oil or grease as specified.
1-6 GENERAL INFORMATION
Before Servicing
Direction of Engine Rotation
When rotating the crankshaft by hand, the free play amount of rotating direction will affect the adjustment. Rotate the crankshaft to positive direction (clockwise viewed from output side).
Electrical Leads
A two-color lead is identified first by the primary color and then the stripe color. Unless instructed otherwise, electrical leads must be connected to those of the same color.
Instrument
Use a meter that has enough accuracy for an accurate measurement. Read the manufacture’s instructions thoroughly before using the meter. Incorrect values may lead to improper adjustments.
Model Identification
KX85CE Left Side View
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7
KX85CE Right Side View
1-8 GENERAL INFORMATION
Model Identification
KX85DE Left Side View
KX85DE Right Side View
Model Identification
KX100FE Left Side View
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-9
KX100FE Right Side View
Frame Number Engine Number
1-10 GENERAL INFORMATION
General Specifications
Items
Dimensions
Overall Length
Overall Width
Overall Height
Wheelbase
Road Clearance
Seat Height
Curb Mass:
Front
Rear
Fuel Tank Capacity
Engine
Type
1 830 mm (72.04 in.)
765 mm (30.1 in.)
1 100 mm (43.31 in.)
1 265 mm (49.80 in.)
290 mm (11.4 in.)
830 mm (32.7 in.)
75 kg (165 lb)
36 kg (79 lb)
39 kg (86 lb)
5 L (1 US qt)
KX85CE
Cooling System
Bore and Stroke
Displacement
Compression Ratio
Fuel System
Fuel Type:
Minimum Octane Rating:
Research Octane
Number (RON)
Antiknock Index (RON
+ MON)/2
Starting System
Ignition System
Timing Advance
Ignition Timing
Spark Plug
Terminal
Port Timing
Intake:
Open
Close
Scavenging:
Open
Close
Duration
Exhaust:
Open
Close
2-stroke, single cylinder, piston reed valve
Liquid-cooled
48.5 × 45.8 mm (1.91 × 1.80 in.)
84 cm³ (5.1 Cu in.)
10.9 (Low speed)
9.0 (High speed)
Carburetor, KEIHIN PWK28
(AU, EUR) 95
(US, CA) 90
Primary kick
CDI (Digital)
Electronically advanced
12° BTDC at 11 320 r/min (rpm)
NGK R6252K-105
Solid-post
Full open
–
63.8° BBDC
63.8° ABDC
127.6°
79° (Low speed)
93.6° (High speed)
79° (Low speed)
93.6° (High speed)
KX85DE
1 920 mm (75.59 in.)
←
1 150 mm (45.28 in.)
1 310 mm (51.57 in.)
330 mm (13.0 in.)
870 mm (34.3 in.)
77 kg (169 lb)
37 kg (82 lb)
40 kg (88 lb)
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
–
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
–
←
←
←
←
←
←
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-11
General Specifications
Items
Duration
Lubrication System
Drive Train
Primary Reduction System:
Type
Reduction Ratio
Clutch Type
Transmission:
Type
Gear Tatios:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th
Final Drive System:
Type
Reduction Ratio
Overall Drive Ratio
Transmission Oil:
Type
KX85CE
158° (Low speed)
187.2° (High speed)
Petrol mix (32 : 1)
Gear
3.400 (68/20)
Wet, multi disc
6-speed, constant mesh, return shift
2.538 (33/13)
1.875 (30/16)
1.500 (27/18)
1.250 (25/20)
1.090 (24/22)
0.956 (22/23)
Chain drive
3.571 (50/14)
11.607 at Top gear
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO
MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE 10W-40
0.7 L (0.7 US qt)
Viscosity
Frame
Capacity
Type
Steering Angle
Caster (Rake Angle)
Trail
Front Wheel:
Tire Size
Tire Make/Type
Rim Size
Rear Wheel:
Tire Size
Tire Make/Type
Rim Size
Front Suspension:
Type
Wheel Travel
Tubular, semi-double cradle
45° to either side
29°
97 mm (3.8 in.)
70/100-17 40M
DUNLOP MX51F, Tube type
17 × 1.40
90/100-14 49M
DUNLOP MX51, Tube type
14 × 1.60
Telescopic fork (upside down)
275 mm (10.8 in.)
KX85DE
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
←
3.923 (51/13)
12.758 at Top gear
←
←
←
←
←
←
108 mm (4.25 in.)
70/100-19 42M
←
19 × 1.40
90/100-16 52M
←
16 × 1.85
←
←
1-12 GENERAL INFORMATION
General Specifications
Items
Rear Suspension:
Type
Wheel Travel
Brake Type:
Front and Rear
Effective Disc Diameter:
Front
Rear
KX85CE
Swing arm (Uni-trak)
275 mm (10.8 in.)
Single disc
202 mm (7.95 in.)
150 mm (5.91 in.)
KX85DE
←
←
←
←
←
Specifications are subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country.
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-13
General Specifications
Dimmensions
Overall Length
Overall Width
Overall Height
Wheelbase
Items
Road Clearance
Seat Height
Curb Mass:
KX100FE
1 920 mm (75.59 in.)
765 mm (30.1 in.)
1 150 mm (45.28 in.)
1 310 mm (51.57 in.)
330 mm (13.0 in.)
870 mm (34.3 in.)
77 kg (169 lb)
Front
Rear
Fuel Tank Capaciry
Engine
Type
37 kg (82 lb)
40 kg (88 lb)
5 L (1 US qt)
Cooling System
Bore and Stroke
Displacement
Compression Ratio
2-stroke, single cylinder, piston reed valve
Liquid-cooled
52.5 × 45.8 mm (2.07 × 1.80 in.)
99 cm³ (6.0 Cu in.)
10.2 (Low speed)
8.7 (High speed)
Carburetor, KEIHIN PWK28 Fuel System
Fuel Type:
Minimum Octane Rating:
Antiknock Index (RON + MON)/2 90
Starting System Primary kick
Ignition System
Timing Advance
Ignition Timing
CDI (Digital)
Electronically advanced
Spark Plug
Terminal
12° BTDC at 12 640 r/min (rpm)
NGK R6252K-105
Splid-post
Port Timing
Intake:
Open
Close
Scavenging:
Open
Close
Duration
Exhaust:
Open
Full open
–
62.8° BBDC
62.8° ABDC
125.6°
Close
Duration
Lubrication System
81.7° (Low speed),
93.6° (High speed)
81.7° (Low speed),
93.6° (High speed)
163.4° (Low speed),
187.2° (High speed)
Petrol mix (32:1)
1-14 GENERAL INFORMATION
General Specifications
Items
Drive Train
Primary Reduction System:
Type
Reduction Ratio
Clutch Type
Transmission:
Type
Gear Tatios
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th
Final Drive System:
Type
Reduction Ratio
Overall Drive Ratio
Transmission Oil:
Type
Viscosity
Capacity
Frame
Type
Steering Angle
Caster (Rake Angle)
Trail
Front Wheel:
Tire Size
Tire Make/Type
Rim Size
Rear Wheel:
Tire Size
Tire Make/Type
Rim Size
Front Suspension:
Type
Wheel Travel
Rear Suspension:
Type
Wheel Travel
Brake Type:
Front and Rear
Gear
3.400 (68/20)
Wet, multi disc
KX100FE
6-speed, constant mesh, return shift
2.538 (33/13)
1.875 (30/16)
1.500 (27/18)
1.250 (25/20)
1.090 (24/22)
0.956 (22/23)
Chain drive
3.923 (51/13)
12.758 at Top gear
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE 10W-40
0.7 L (0.7 US qt)
Tubular, semi double cradle
45° to either side
29°
108 mm (4.25 in.)
70/100-19 42M
DUNLOP MX51F, Tube type
19 × 1.40
90/100-16 52M
DUNLOP MX51, Tube type
16 × 1.85
Telescopic fork (upside down)
275 mm (10.8 in.)
Swingarm (Uni-trak)
275 mm (10.8 in.)
Single disc
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-15
General Specifications
Items
Effective Disc Diameter:
Front
Rear
KX100FE
202 mm (7.95 in.)
150 mm (5.97 in.)
Specifications are subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country.
1-16 GENERAL INFORMATION
Unit Conversion Table
Prefixes for Units:
Prefix mega kilo centi milli micro
Symbol
M k c m
µ
Power
× 1 000 000
× 1 000
× 0.01
× 0.001
× 0.000001
Units of Mass:
kg g
×
×
2.205
=
0.03527
=
Units of Volume:
L × 0.2642
=
L mL mL mL
L
L
L
L
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
0.2200
=
1.057
=
0.8799
=
2.113
=
1.816
=
0.03381
=
0.02816
=
0.06102
=
Units of Force:
N × 0.1020
=
N × 0.2248
= kg kg
×
×
9.807
2.205
=
=
Units of Temperature:
lb oz kg lb
N lb gal (US) gal (IMP) qt (US) qt (IMP) pint (US) pint (IMP) oz (US) oz (IMP) cu in.
Units of Length:
km × 0.6214
= m mm
×
×
3.281
=
0.03937 =
Units of Torque:
N·m × 0.1020
=
N·m × 0.7376
=
N·m kgf·m kgf·m kgf·m
×
×
×
×
8.851
9.807
7.233
86.80
=
=
=
=
Units of Pressure:
kPa × 0.01020 = kPa kPa kgf/cm² × kgf/cm² × cmHg
×
×
×
0.1450
=
0.7501
=
98.07
14.22
1.333
=
=
=
Units of Speed:
km/h × 0.6214
=
Units of Power:
kW kW
PS
PS
×
×
×
×
1.360
=
1.341
=
0.7355
=
0.9863
= mile ft in.
PS
HP kW
HP kgf·m ft·lb in·lb
N·m ft·lb in·lb mph kgf/cm² psi cmHg kPa psi kPa
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-1
Periodic Maintenance
Table of Contents
Drive Chain Guide, Guide Roller, Chain Slipper Wear Inspection ....................................
2
2-2 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-3
Periodic Maintenance Chart
The maintenance must be done in accordance with this chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.
FREQUENCY
OPERATION
Each race
(2.5 hr)
Every 3 races
(7.5 hr)
Every 5 races
(12.5
hr)
Every 10 races
(25 hr)
As required
See
Page
ENGINE
Clutch - adjust 2-22
Clutch and friction plates - inspect †
Throttle cable - adjust
Spark plug - clean/regap †
Air cleaner element - clean
Air cleaner element - replace
Carburetor - inspect/adjust
Transmission oil - change
Piston and piston ring - clean/ inspect †
Cylinder head and cylinder - inspect
Exhaust valves - clean/inspect
Silencer - clean/inspect †
Silencer wool - change
Connecting rod small end bearing inspect †
Kick pedal and shift pedal - clean
Expansion chamber O-rings - replace
Engine sprocket - inspect †
Coolant - inspect †
Radiator hoses, connections - inspect
†
Reed valve - inspect †
CHASSIS
Brake adjustment - inspect †
Brake pad wear - inspect †
Brake fluid level - inspect †
Brake fluid - change
Brake master cylinder cups and dust seals - replace
Brake caliper piston seals and dust seals - replace
Brake hoses, connections - inspect †
Brake hose - replace
Spoke tightness and rim runout inspect †
Drive chain - adjust
Drive chain - lubricate
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
R
•
R
When damaged
•
•
•
R
•
•
•
R
•
•
Every 2 years
Every 2 years
Every 2 years
Every 4 years
R
2-23
2-11
2-55
2-13
2-13
2-12
2-24
2-20
2-18,
2-19
2-20
2-20
2-21
2-20
–
2-21
2-30
2-16
2-18
2-16
2-32
2-38
2-32
2-35
2-38
2-40
2-44
2-44
2-27
2-29
2-30
2-4 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Chart
OPERATION
Drive chain wear - inspect †
Chain slipper and guide - replace
Front fork - inspect/clean
Front fork oil - change
Fuel system - clean
Fuel hoses, connections - inspect †
Fuel hose - replace
Steering play - inspect †
Rear sprocket - inspect †
FREQUENCY
Nuts, bolts, fasteners - inspect †
Steering stem bearing - grease
General lubrication - perform
Each race
(2.5 hr)
Every 3 races
(7.5 hr)
•
•
•
•
When damaged
•
1st time after 2 races, then every 5 races
Every 5 years
•
•
•
•
•
Wheel bearing - inspect †
Swingarm and Uni-Trak linkage pivots
- grease
Swingarm and Uni-Trak linkage pivots
- inspect †
Rear shock oil - replace
†: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.
R: Replace
Every 5 races
(12.5
hr)
•
•
Every 10 races
(25 hr)
As required
1st time after 2 races, then every 5 races
See
Page
2-11
2-11
2-53
2-54
2-30,
2-31
2-55
2-28
2-28
2-31
2-45
2-45
2-56
2-15
2-53
2-52
2-48
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5
Torque and Locking Agent
Tighten all bolts and nuts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. If insufficiently tightened, a bolt or nut may become damaged, strip an internal thread, or break and then fall out. The following table lists the tightening torque for the major bolts and nuts, and the parts requiring use of a non-permanent locking agent or silicone grease etc. All of the values are for use with dry solvent cleaned threads unless otherwise indicated.
When checking the tightening torque of the bolts and nuts, first loosen the bolt or nut by half a turn and then tighten to specified torque.
Letters used in the “Remarks” column mean:
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
Lh: Left-hand Threads
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
Fastener
N·m
Torque kgf·m ft·lb
Remarks
Fuel System
Reed Valve Screws
Carburetor Holder Mounting Bolts
Carburetor Mounting Clamp Screw
Fuel Tank Screws
Cooling System
Water Hose Clamp Screws
Coolant Drain Bolt (Cylinder)
Air Bleeder Bolt
Water Pump Cover Bolts
Water Pump Impeller Bolt
Coolant Drain Bolt (Water Pump)
Engine Top End
Cylinder Head Nuts
Exhaust Valve Cover Screws
KIPS Cover Bolts
Exhaust Valve Lever Mounting Bolt
Exhaust Valve Plate Bolts
Cylinder Nuts
Muffler Body Cover Bolts
Engine Right Side
Clutch Cover Bolts
Clutch Spring Bolts
Clutch Hub Nut
Lever Shaft Assembly Mounting Screw
Kick Pedal Bolt
Lever Shaft Retaining Bolt
Oil Filler Cap
Right Engine Cover Bolts
1.0
9.4
1.5
12
3.0
8.8
9.4
9.4
8.3
5.2
25
3.0
5.2
3.9
5.9
25
8.8
9.4
9.3
88
6.4
9.4
5.2
–
9.4
0.10
1.0
0.15
1.2
0.31
0.90
1.0
1.0
0.85
0.53
2.5
0.31
0.53
0.40
0.60
2.5
0.90
1.0
0.95
9.0
0.65
1.0
0.53
–
1.0
8.9 in·lb
83 in·lb
13 in·lb
106 in·lb
27 in·lb
78 in·lb
83 in·lb
83 in·lb
73 in·lb
46 in·lb
18
27 in·lb
46 in·lb
35 in·lb
52 in·lb
18
78 in·lb
83 in·lb
82 in·lb
65
57 in·lb
83 in·lb
46 in·lb
–
83 in·lb
S
L
S
L
R
L
Hand
-tighten
2-6 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Torque and Locking Agent
Fastener
Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt
Kick Ratchet Guide Screw
Primary Gear Nut
Engine Removal/Installation
Engine Bracket Mounting Nuts
Engine Mounting Nuts
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Engine Bottom End/Transmission
Drive Shaft Bearing Retainer Bolts
Shift Drum Bearing Retainer Bolts
Transmission Oil Drain Bolt
Crankshaft Cover Bolts
Crankcase Bolts
Output Shaft Bearing Retainer Screws
Shift Drum Cam Bolt
Gear Positioning Lever Bolt
Shift Shaft Return Spring Pin
Shift Pedal Bolt
Wheels/Tires
Spoke Nipples
Front Axle Nut
Rear Axle Nut
Final Drive
Rear Sprocket Nuts
Brakes
Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws
Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
Bleed Valve
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts
Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut
Brake Pedal Bolt
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
Rear Caliper Holder Bolt
Rear Brake Pad Pins
Bleed Valve
Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
4.0
78
78
34
25
9.8
17.5
25
25
22.1
17.2
7.8
9.8
5.9
9.8
7.8
25
25
1.5
8.8
5.9
N·m
9.4
5.2
49
29
29
69
9.4
5.2
23
9.4
9.4
9.4
20
9.8
22
9.8
35 in·lb
58
58
25
18
87 in·lb
12.9
18
18
16.3
12.7
69 in·lb
87 in·lb
18
13 in·lb
78 in·lb
52 in·lb
52 in·lb
87 in·lb
69 in·lb
18
ft·lb
83 in·lb
46 in·lb
36
21
21
51
83 in·lb
83 in·lb
15
87 in·lb
83 in·lb
46 in·lb
17
78 in·lb
16
87 in·lb
Remarks
Lh
R
R
R
L
S
L
L
R
R
R, S
S
Si
L
G
L
L
0.41
8.0
8.0
3.5
2.5
1.0
1.78
2.5
2.5
2.25
1.75
0.80
1.0
2.5
0.15
0.90
0.60
0.60
1.0
0.80
2.5
Torque kgf·m
1.0
0.53
5.0
3.0
3.0
7.0
1.0
0.53
2.3
1.0
1.0
1.0
2.0
1.0
2.2
1.0
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-7
Torque and Locking Agent
Fastener
Suspension
Air Pressure Relief Screws
Front Fork Top Plugs
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
Front Fork Push Rod Nuts
Compression Valve Assembly
Rocker Arm Bracket Bolts
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
Compression Damping Adjuster
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt
(Upper)
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt
(Lower)
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Steering
Handlebar Holder Bolts
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
Steering Stem Head Nut
Handlebar Holder Nuts
Steering Stem Nut
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
Frame
Rear Frame Pipe Nuts
Electrical System
Spark Plug
Stator Coil Plate Mounting Screws
Flywheel Nut
Basic Torque for General Fasteners
Threads Diameter
(mm)
12
14
16
18
20
5
6
8
10
N·m
3.4
∼
4.9
5.9
∼
7.8
14
∼
19
25
∼
34
44
∼
61
73
∼
98
115
∼
155
165
∼
225
225
∼
325
N·m
15
55
83
83
1.3
28
20
20
59
17.5
39
39
69
25
20
64
34
4.9
20
34
25.5
5.2
29
Torque kgf·m
0.35
∼
0.50
0.60
∼
0.80
1.4
∼
1.9
2.6
∼
3.5
4.5
∼
6.2
7.4
∼
10.0
11.5
∼
16.0
17.0
∼
23.0
23.0
∼
33.0
Torque kgf·m
1.5
5.6
8.5
8.5
0.13
2.9
2.0
2.0
6.0
1.78
4.0
4.0
7.0
2.5
2.0
6.5
3.5
0.50
2.0
3.5
2.60
0.53
3.0
ft·lb
30
∼
43 in·lb
52
∼
69 in·lb
10
∼
13.5
19
∼
25
33
∼
45
54
∼
72
83
∼
115
125
∼
165
165
∼
240
ft·lb
12 in·lb
21
15
15
11
41
61
61
44
12.9
29
29
51
18
15
47
25
43 in·lb
15
25
18.8 in·lb
46 in·lb
21
Remarks
AL
L
G
R
R
R
2T, S
R
AL
R
2-8 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Specifications
Item
Fuel System
Throttle Grip Free Play
Air Cleaner Element
Air Cleaner Element Oil
Red Warp
Cooling System
Coolant:
Type (Recommended)
Color
Mixed Ratio
Freezing Point
Total Amount
Engine Top End
Cylinder Head Warp
Standard
2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12 in.)
Polyurethane foam
High-quality foam air filter oil
– – –
Permanent type antifreeze
Green
Soft water 50%, coolant 50%
–35°C (–31°F)
0.57 L (0.60 US qt)
– – –
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.03 mm
(0.001 in.)
Cylinder Inside Diameter (see text):
KX85C/D
KX100F
48.505
∼
48.520 mm
(1.9096
∼
1.9102 in.)
52.515
∼
52.530 mm
(2.0675
∼
2.0681 in.)
Piston/Cylinder Clearance:
KX85C/D
KX100F
0.056
∼
0.066 mm
(0.0022
∼
0.0026 in.)
0.075
∼
0.085 mm
(0.0030
∼
0.0033 in.)
Clutch
Clutch Lever Free Play
Friction Plate Thickness
Friction Plate Warp
Steel Plate Warp
Engine Bottom End/Transmission
Transmission Oil:
Type
8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.)
2.92
∼
3.08 mm (0.115
∼
0.121 in.)
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Viscosity
Amount
Connecting Rod Big End Side
Clearance
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO
MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE 10W-40
0.7 L (0.7 US qt)
0.40
∼
0.50 mm
(0.016
∼
0.020 in.)
Wheels/Tires
Rim Runout (with tire installed):
Axial TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
Radial
Tires Air Pressure (Front/Rear)
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
100
∼
125 kPa (1.02
∼
1.27 kgf/cm²,
14.5
∼
18.1 psi)
48.60 mm
(1.913 in.)
52.62 mm
(2.072 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
2.8 mm (0.11 in.)
0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.7 mm
(0.03 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm
(0.08 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm
(0.08 in.)
– – –
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-9
Specifications
Standard Tire:
Front:
Item
Size:
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Make
Type
Rear:
Size:
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Make
Type
Final Drive
Drive Chain Slack
Drive Chain 20-link Length
Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout)
Brakes
Brake Lever Free Play
Brake Fluid Type:
Front
Rear
Brake Pad Lining Thickness:
Front
Rear
Suspension
Front Fork
Suspension Oil:
Type
Amount
Rear Shock Absorber
Suspension Oil:
Type
Amount
Electrical System
Spark Plug:
Type
Gap
70/100-17 40M
70/100-19 42M
DUNLOP
MX51F
Standard
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
90/100-14 49M
90/100-16 52M
DUNLOP
MX51
54
∼
64 mm (2.1
∼
2.5 in.)
254.0
∼
254.6 mm (10.00
∼
10.02 in.)
TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less
Adjustable (to suit rider)
DOT3 or DOT4
DOT4
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
259 mm (10.2 in.)
TIR 0.5 mm
(0.020 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
1 mm (0.04 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
Kawasaki KHL 15-10 or equivalent
310 ±4 mL (10.5 ±0.1 US oz.)
– – –
(Adjustable Range)
295
∼
325 mL
(9.97
∼
11.0 US oz.)
Kawasaki KHV10-K2C or equivalent
162 mL (5.48 US oz.)
NGK R6252K-105
0.7
∼
0.8 mm (0.028
∼
0.031 in.)
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
2-10 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Special Tools
Inside Circlip Pliers:
57001-143
Fork Oil Level Gauge:
57001-1290
Steering Stem Nut Wrench:
57001-1100
Jack:
57001-1238
Fork Spring Holder:
57001-1286
Fork Piston Rod Puller, M10 × 1.0:
57001-1298
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Fuel System
Fuel Hose and Connection Inspection
○
If the motorcycle is not properly handled, the inside the fuel line can cause fuel to leak [A].
•
Check the fuel hose.
Replace the fuel hose if any fraying, cracks [B], bulges [C] or ozone cracks [D] are noticed.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-11
•
Check that the fuel hose [A] is securely connected and clamps [B] are tightened correctly.
•
Route the hose according to Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
○
Avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening or twisting, and route the fuel hose with a minimum of bending so that the fuel flow will not be obstructed.
Replace the fuel hose if it has been sharply bent or kinked.
Throttle Grip (Throttle Cable) Free Play Inspection
•
Check throttle grip free play by lightly turning the throttle grip [A] back and forth [B].
Throttle Grip Free Play
Standard: 2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12 in.)
If the free play is improper, adjust the throttle cable.
•
Check that the throttle grip moves smoothly from full open to close, and the throttle closes quickly and completely in all steering positions by the return spring.
If the throttle grip does not return properly, check the throttle cable routing, grip free play, and cable damage. Then lubricate the throttle cable.
•
Run the engine at the idle speed, and turn the handlebar all the way to the right and left to ensure that the idle speed does not change.
If the idle speed increase, check the throttle cable free play and the cable routing.
Throttle Grip (Throttle Cable) Free Play
Adjustment
•
Pull the rubber boot [A] of the upper end of the throttle cable [B].
•
Loosen the locknuts [C] at the upper end of the throttle cable.
•
Turn the throttle cable adjuster [D] until 2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
•
Tighten the locknut and install the rubber boot.
2-12 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
If the throttle cable free play cannot be adjusted with the upper end of the throttle cable, use the cable adjuster [A]
• at the carburetor.
Pull the rubber boot [B] of the carburetor.
•
Loosen the locknuts [C] at the carburetor.
•
Turn the throttle cable adjuster until 2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12
in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
•
Tighten the locknut and install the rubber boot.
If the throttle grip free play cannot be adjusted with the adjuster, replace the throttle cable.
•
Turn the handlebars from side to side while idling the engine. If idle speed varies, the throttle cable may be poorly routed or it may be damaged.
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed or damaged cable could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Follow the service manual to make sure to correct any of these conditions.
•
Idle Speed (Carburetor) Adjustment
Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.
•
Turn in the air screw [A] until it seats lightly.
•
Back it out the specified number of turns.
Air Screw
Standard:
KX85C/D 1 1/2 turns out
KX100F 1 7/8 turns out
NOTICE
Do not force the air screw beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
•
Turn the idle adjusting screw [B] until the idle speed is correct.
•
Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure that the idle speed is within the specified range. Readjust if necessary.
•
With the engine idling, turn the handlebars to both sides.
If handlebars movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may be improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or it may be damaged. Be sure to correct any of these conditions before riding (see Cable, Wire, and
Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed or damaged cable could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Follow the service manual to make sure to correct any of these conditions.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Air Cleaner Element Cleaning and Inspection
NOTE
○
In dusty areas, the element should be cleaned more frequently than recommended interval.
○
After riding through rain or on muddy roads, the element should be cleaned immediately.
○
Since repeated cleaning opens the pores of the element, replace it with a new one in accordance with the
Periodic Maintenance Chart. Also, if there is a break in the element material or any other damage to the element, replace the element with a new one.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-13
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark or flame anywhere near the working areas. Do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the element.
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Wing Bolt [A]
Air Cleaner Element [B]
•
Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the air cleaner duct so no dirt is allowed to enter the carburetor.
•
Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing with a clean damp towel.
NOTICE
Check inside of the inlet tract and carburetor for dirt. If dirt is present, clean the inlet tract and carburetor thoroughly. You may also need to replace the element and seal the housing and inlet tract.
•
Separate the element [A] from the frame [B].
2-14 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Clean the element [A] in a bath of a high flash-point solvent using a soft bristle brush.
•
Squeeze it dry in a clean towel [A]. Do not wring the element [B] or blow it dry; the element can be damaged.
•
Check all parts of the element for visible damage.
If any parts of the element are damaged, replace them.
•
After cleaning, saturate the element with a high-quality foam-air-filter oil, squeeze out the excess, then wrap it in a clean towel and squeeze it as dry as possible.
○
Be careful not to tear the sponge filter.
•
Assemble the element.
•
Remove the towel from the air cleaner duct.
•
Apply grease [A] to all connections and screw holes in the air cleaner housing and inlet tract.
•
Install the element onto its frame, and coat the element lip and lip seat with a thick layer of all-purpose grease to assure a complete seal.
•
Fit the projection [A] of the air cleaner element [B] with the groove of the air cleaner housing.
•
Tighten the wing bolt [C].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Fuel System Clean
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-15
•
Turn the fuel tap to the “OFF” position.
•
Place a suitable container beneath the carburetor drain plug [A].
•
Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the float bowl and check for water or dirt in the fuel.
If any water or dirt comes out, clean the carburetor, fuel
• tap and fuel tank.
•
Replace the drain plug O-ring with a new one.
Tighten the drain plug securely.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the tank in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area. Do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the tank.
•
Remove the fuel tank and drain the fuel (see Fuel Tank
Removal in the Fuel System chapter).
•
Pour some high flash-point solvent into the fuel tank and shake the tank to remove dirt and fuel deposits.
•
Drain the solvent out of the tank.
•
Remove the fuel tap (see Fuel Tap Removal in the Fuel
System chapter).
•
Clean the fuel tap screen in a high flash-point solvent.
•
Pour high flash-point solvent through the tap in all lever positions.
•
Dry the tank and tap with compressed air.
•
Install:
Fuel Tap (see Fuel Tap Installation in the Fuel System chapter)
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Installation in the Fuel System chapter)
2-16 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Reed Valve Inspection
•
Remove the reed valve (see Reed Valve Removal in the
Fuel System chapter).
•
Inspect the reeds for cracks, folds, or other visible damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of a reed, replace the reed valve part with a new one.
If a reed becomes wavy, replace the valve part with a new one even if its warp is less than the service limit.
•
Measure the clearance between the reed [A] and holder
[B], and check the reed warp as shown.
If any one of the clearance measurements exceeds the service limit, replace the valve part with a new one.
Reed Warp
Service Limit: 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
Torque - Reed Valve screws: 1.0 N·m (0.10 kgf·m, 8.9 in·lb)
•
Install the reed valve (see Reed Valve Installation in the
Fuel System chapter).
Cooling System
WARNING
Coolant can be extremely hot and cause severe burns, is toxic and very slippery. Do not remove the radiator cap or attempt to change the coolant when the engine is hot; allow it cool completely.
Immediately wipe any spilled coolant from tires, frame, engine or other painted parts. Do not ingest coolant.
Coolant Level Inspection
NOTE
○
Check the level when the engine is cold (room or ambient temperature).
•
Lean the motorcycle slightly until the radiator cap is level to the ground so that the radiator cap is located uppermost in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the radiator.
•
Remove the radiator cap [A].
NOTE
○
Remove the radiator cap in two steps. First turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds. Then push down and turn it further in the same direction and remove the cap.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Check the coolant level. The coolant level [A] should be at the bottom of the radiator filler neck [B].
If the coolant level is low, add coolant through the radiator filler opening to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-17
Recommended Coolant
Permanent type antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators)
Water and Coolant Mixture Ratio
Soft Water: 50%
Antifreeze: 50%
Freezing Point: –35°C (–31°F)
Total Amount: 0.57 L (0.60 US qt.)
NOTICE
For refilling, add the specified mixture of coolant and soft water.
Adding water alone dilutes the coolant and degrades its anticorrosion properties.
The diluted coolant can attack the aluminum engine parts. In an emergency, soft water alone can be added. But the diluted coolant must be returned to the correct mixture ratio within a few days.
•
Install the radiator cap.
NOTE
○
The radiator cap must be installed in two steps. First turn the cap clockwise to the first stop. Then push down on it and turn it the rest of the way.
Coolant Deterioration Inspection
•
Visually inspect the coolant.
If whitish cotton-like wafts are observed, aluminum parts in the cooling system are corroded. If the coolant is brown, iron or steel parts are rusting. In either case, flush the cooling system.
If the coolant gives off an abnormal smell, check for a cooling system leak. It may be caused by exhaust gas leaking into the cooling system.
2-18 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Water Hoses and Connections Inspection
•
Remove the right radiator shroud (see Radiator Removal in the Cooling System chapter).
○
The high pressure inside the water hoses [A] can cause coolant to leak [B] or the hose to burst if the line is not properly maintained. Visually inspect the hoses for signs of deterioration. Squeeze the hoses. A hose should not be hard and brittle, nor should it be soft or swollen.
Replace the hose if any fraying, cracks [C] or bulges [D] are noticed.
•
Check that the hoses are securely connected and clamps are tightened correctly.
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
Engine Top End
Cylinder Head Warp Inspection
•
Remove:
Spark Plug (see Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection)
Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
•
Lay a straightedge [A] across the lower surface of the head at several different points, and measure warp by inserting a thickness gauge between the straightedge and the head.
Cylinder Head Warp
Service Limit: 0.03 mm (0.001 in.)
If warp exceeds the service limit, repair the mating surface. Replace the cylinder head if the mating surface is badly damaged.
•
Scrape the carbon out of the combustion chamber with a scraper [A] or a suitable tool.
•
Clean the cylinder head, using high flash-point solvent.
•
Blow out any particles which may obstruct the oil passage in the cylinder head using compressed air.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Cylinder Wear Inspection
NOTE
○
Measure the cylinder inside diameter when the cylinder is cold (at room temperature).
•
Visually Inspect the inside of the cylinder for scratches and abnormal wear.
If the cylinder is damaged or badly worn, replace it with a new one.
•
Take a side-to-side and a front-to-back measurement shown in the figure (total 4 measurements).
○
The cylinder wear is uneven in different places.
5 mm (0.20 in.) [A]
20 mm (0.79 in.) [B]
Cylinder Inside Diameter
Standard: KX85C/D
Service
Limit:
KX100F
KX85C/D
KX100F
48.505
∼
48.520 mm (1.9096
∼
1.9102 in.), and less than 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.) difference between any two measurements.
52.515
∼
52.530 mm (2.0675
∼
2.0681 in.), and less than 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.) difference between any two measurements.
48.60 mm (1.913 in.), or more than 0.05 mm (0.020 in.) difference between any two measurements.
52.62 mm (2.072 in.), or more than 0.05 mm (0.020 in.) difference between any two measurements.
If any of the cylinder inside diameter measurements exceeds the service limit, the cylinder must be replaced with a new one.
○
Since the PLATING cylinder cannot be bored or honed.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-19
2-20 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Piston/Cylinder Clearance Inspection
The piston-to-cylinder clearance is measured whenever a piston or cylinder is replaced with a new one. The standard piston-to-cylinder clearance must be adhered to whenever the cylinder is replaced.
If only a piston is replaced, the clearance may exceed the standard slightly. But it must be within the standard, in order to avoid piston seizure.
The most accurate way to find the piston clearance is by making separate piston and cylinder diameter measurements and then computing the difference between the two values. Measure the piston diameter as just described, and measure the cylinder diameter at the very bottom of the cylinder.
Piston/Cylinder Clearance
Standard:
KX85C/D 0.056
∼
0.066 mm (0.0022
∼
0.0026 in.)
KX100F 0.075
∼
0.085 mm (0.0030
∼
0.0033 in.)
Piston, Piston Ring and Piston Pin Replacement
•
Refer to the Cylinder and Piston section in the Engine Top
End chapter.
Exhaust Valve Cleaning and Inspection
•
Remove the exhaust valve (see Exhaust Valve Removal in the Engine Top End chapter).
•
Scrape out any carbon and clean the exhaust valves with a high flash-point solvent.
•
Check the exhaust valves for sings of damage.
If necessary, replace them with new ones.
•
Install the exhaust valve (see Exhaust Valve Installation in the Engine Top End chapter).
Exhaust System Inspection
•
The exhaust system, in particular the muffler, is designed to reduce exhaust noise and conduct the exhaust gases away from the rider while minimizing power loss. If carbon has built up inside the muffler, exhaust efficiency is reduced, causing engine performance to drop.
If the muffler body is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace it.
If the exhaust noise becomes too loud or engine performance drops, replace the baffle.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Expansion Chamber O-rings Replacement
•
Remove the expansion chamber (see Expansion Chamber Removal in the Engine Top End chapter).
•
Replace the exhaust gasket and exhaust O-rings [A].
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease around the exhaust
O-rings.
•
Install the expansion chamber (see Expansion Chamber
Installation in the Engine Top End chapter).
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-21
Silencer Wool Replacement
•
Remove the muffler (see Muffler Removal/Installation in the Engine Top End chapter).
•
Remove the liquid gasket on the silencer, tail pipe and baffle.
•
Remove:
Muffler Body Cover Bolts [A]
Tail Pipe [B]
•
Remove the O-ring [A].
•
Remove:
Baffle [A]
Silencer Wool [B]
2-22 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Replace the silencer wool and O-ring with new ones.
•
Install:
Silencer Wool
O-ring
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the liquid gasket coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply liquid gasket to the joint part [A] of the silencer [B] and tail pipe [C].
•
Install the baffle and tail pipe into the silencer.
•
Install the muffler (see Muffler Removal/Installation in the
Engine Top End chapter).
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the muffler body cover bolts, and tighten them.
Torque - Muffler Body Cover Bolt: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 ft·lb)
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the liquid gasket coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply liquid gasket [A] to the joint part of the silencer [B] and baffle [C].
Engine Right Side
Clutch Operation Inspection
Clutch Lever (Clutch Cable) Free Play Inspection
•
Slide the dust cover [A] out of place.
•
Check that the clutch cable upper end is fully seated in the adjusting nut [B].
•
Pull the clutch lever [C] lightly, and check the free play [D].
Clutch Lever Free Play
Standard: 8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.)
If the play is too wide, the clutch may not release fully. If the play is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully. In either case, adjust it.
•
Clutch Lever (Clutch Cable) Free Play Adjustment
Slide the dust cover [A] out of place.
•
Loosen the locknut [B].
•
Turn the clutch cable adjuster [C] so that the clutch lever will have 8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.) of play.
NOTICE
Be sure that the outer cable end at the clutch lever is fully seated in the adjuster at the clutch lever, or it could slip into the place later, creating enough cable play to prevent clutch disengagement.
If the free play can not be adjusted with the clutch cable adjuster, use the adjusting nut.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Loosen the locknut [A] at the clutch cable, and turn the adjusting nut [B] so that clutch lever has 8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.) of play.
•
Tighten the locknut, and start the engine and check that the clutch does not slip and that it release properly.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-23
Clutch Plates Inspection
•
Remove the clutch plates (see Clutch Removal in the Engine Right Side chapter).
•
Visually inspect the friction and steel plates to see if they show signs of seizure, uneven wear or any other damage.
If any plates show signs of damage, replace the friction plates and steel plates as a set.
•
Measure the thickness [A] of the friction plate at several points with vernier calipers.
Friction Plate Thickness
Standard: 2.92
∼
3.08 mm (0.115
∼
0.121 in.)
Service Limit: 2.8 mm (0.11 in.)
If they have worn past the service limit, replace them with new ones.
•
Place each friction plate or steel plate [B] on a surface plate [A].
•
Measure the gap between the surface plate and each friction plate or steel plate with a thickness gauge [C]. The gap is the amount of friction or steel plate warp.
Friction and Steel Plates Warp
Standard:
Friction Plate 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Steel Plate 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Service Limit:
Friction Plate 0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
Steel Plate 0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
If any plate is warped over the service limit, replace it with a new one.
Engine Lubrication System
WARNING
Vehicle operation with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated engine oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in engine seizure, accident, and injury. Check the oil level before each use and change the oil and filter according to the periodic maintenance chart.
2-24 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Transmission Oil Change
•
Warm up the engine thoroughly so that the oil will pick up
• any sediment and drain easily. Then stop the engine.
•
Place an oil pan beneath the engine.
Remove the oil filler cap [A].
•
Remove the transmission oil drain bolt [A] from the bottom of the engine, and let the oil drain completely.
NOTE
○
Hold the motorcycle upright so that the oil may drain completely.
•
Replace the drain bolt gasket with a new one.
•
Install the drain bolt with the gasket.
Torque - Transmission Oil Drain Bolt: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
•
Pour the specified transmission oil.
Recommended Transmission Oil
Type: API SG, SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
Amount: 0.7 L (0.7 US qt.)
•
Install the oil filler cap.
Torque - Oil Filler Cap: Hand-tighten
NOTE
○
Do not add any chemical additive to the oil. Oils fulfilling the above requirements are fully formulated and provide adequate lubrication for the engine and the clutch.
○
The oil viscosity may need to be changed to accommodate atmospheric conditions in your riding area.
•
Check the oil level (see Oil Level Inspection in the Engine
Bottom End/Transmission chapter).
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Breather Hoses Inspection
•
Be certain that the breather hoses [A] are routed without being flattened or kinked and is connected correctly.
If it is not, correct it.
•
Inspect the breather hoses for damage or sings of deterioration.
○
This hose should not be hard and brittle, nor should be soft swollen.
Replace the hoses if any damage is noticed.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-25
Crankshaft/Transmission
Crankshaft Inspection
•
Remove:
Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Cylinder (see Cylinder Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Piston (see Piston Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
•
Make sure that the crankshaft rotate smoothly (in the neutral position).
If the crankshaft will not turn smoothly, check the connecting rod big end side clearance.
If the connecting rod big end side clearance is good, check the bearings (see Bearing Wear Inspection in the
Crankshaft/Transmission chapter).
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance
•
Measure the connecting rod big end side clearance at right side of big end using a thickness gauge [A].
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance
Standard: 0.40
∼
0.50 mm (0.016
∼
0.020 in.)
Service Limit: 0.7 mm (0.03 in.)
If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft assembly or reassemble the crankshaft.
•
Make sure that the crankshaft rotates smoothly after assembling the engine.
2-26 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Wheels/Tires
Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment
•
Using a tire pressure gauge [A], measure the air pressure when the tires are cold.
•
Adjust the tire air pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference, but do not stray too far from the recommended pressure.
Tire Pressure Track Condition
When the track is wet, muddy, sandy or slippery, reduce the tire pressure to increase the tire tread surface on the ground.
When the track is pebbly or hard, increase the tire pressure to prevent damage or punctures, through the tires will skid more easily.
100 kPa (1.02 kgf/cm²,
14.5 psi)
↑
↓
125 kPa (1.27 kgf/cm²,
18.1 psi)
Tires Inspection
•
Remove any imbedded stones or other foreign particles from the tread.
Repair or replace with a new one if necessary.
•
Visually inspect the tire for cracks and cuts.
Replace the tire, if any damage are noticed.
○
Swelling or high spots indicate internal damage, requiring tire replacement.
WARNING
Some replacement tires may adversely affect handling and cause an accident resulting in serious injury or death. To ensure proper handling and stability, use only the recommended standard tires for replacement, inflated to the standard pressure.
Standard Tires
Front:
Size
Make
Type
Rear:
Size
70/100-17 40M (KX85C)
70/100-19 42M (KX85D/KX100F)
DUNLOP
MX51F
Make
Type
90/100-14 49M (KX85C)
90/100-16 52M (KX85D/KX100F)
DUNLOP
MX51
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Spoke Tightness Inspection
•
Check that all the spokes are adjusted evenly.
If spoke tightness is uneven or loose, tighten the spoke nipples [A] to the specified torque.
Torque - Spoke Nipples: 4.0 N·m (0.41 kgf·m, 35 in·lb)
•
Check the rim runout (see Rim Runout Inspection).
WARNING
A missing spoke places an additional load on the other spokes, which will eventually cause other spokes to break, creating the potential for an accident resulting in serious injury or death.
Immediately replace any broken spoke(s).
Rim Runout Inspection
•
Raise the rear wheel off the ground using the jack and attachment.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Inspect the rim for cracks, dents, bending, or warping.
If there is any damage to the rim, it must be replaced.
•
Set up a dial gauge on the side of the rim and rotate the wheel to measure its axial runout [A].
○
The difference between the highest and lowest readings is the amount of runout.
•
Set up the dial gauge on the inner circumference of the rim and rotate the wheel to measure its radial runout [B].
○
The difference between the highest and lowest readings is the amount of runout.
Rim Runout (with tire installed)
Standard:
Axial
Radial
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
Service Limit:
Axial
Radial
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
If rim runout exceeds the service limit, check the wheel bearings first (see Wheel Bearing Inspection).
If the problem is not due to the bearings, loosen some spokes and tighten others to change the position of certain portions of the rim.
If the rim is badly bent, however, it should be replaced.
NOTE
○
The welding spot of the rim may show excessive runout.
Disregard this when measuring rim runout.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-27
2-28 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Wheel Bearing Inspection
•
Raise the front/rear wheel off the ground using the jack.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Rotate [A] the wheel lightly, and check for roughness, binding or noise.
If any damage is found, replace the hub bearing.
•
Turn the handlebars until the handlebars does not move to either side (front wheel).
•
The wheel edge is moved [A] to one direction gripping the edge of the wheel by both hands and the play of the wheel bearing is checked.
If the play is found, replace the bearing.
Final Drive
Drive Chain Wear Inspection
•
Rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain for damaged rollers, and loose pins and links.
If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain.
Lubricate the drive chain if it appears dry.
Bushing [A]
Roller [B]
Pin [C]
Pin Link [D]
Roller Link [E]
•
Stretch the chain taut by hanging a 10 kg (22 lb) weight
[A] on the chain.
•
Measure the length of 20 links [B] on the straight part [C] of the chain from the pin center of the 1st pin to the pin center of the 21st pin. Since the chain may wear unevenly, take measurements at several places.
Drive Chain 20-link Length
Standard: 254.0
∼
254.6 mm (10.00
∼
10.02 in.)
Service Limit: 259 mm (10.2 in.)
If any measurements exceed the service limit, replace the chain. Also, replace the front and rear sprockets when the drive chain is replaced.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
WARNING
A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprockets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing it to go out of control. Inspect the chain for damage and proper adjustment before each ride.
If chain wear exceeds the service limit, replace it with the standard chain.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-29
Standard Chain
Make: DAIDO
Type: DID 420DS2
Link: 120 links (KX85C)
124 links (KX85D/KX100F)
Drive Chain Slack Inspection
•
With the motorcycle on its side stand.
NOTE
○
Clean the drive chain if it is dirty, and lubricate it if it appears dry (see Drive Chain Lubrication).
•
Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest (because it wears unevenly).
•
Push up the drive chain in the middle of the upper chain run to measure the chain slack.
•
Measure the distance [A] between the bottom-line of the chain and the swingarm (at the end of the chain slipper).
Drive Chain Slack
Standard: 54
∼
64 mm (2.1
∼
2.5 in.)
If the drive chain slack exceeds the standard, adjust it
(see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment).
•
Drive Chain Slack Adjustment
Loosen the left and right chain adjuster locknuts [A].
•
Remove the cotter pin [B] and loosen the rear axle nut [C].
If the chain is too tight, back out the left and right chain adjusting bolts [D] evenly, and push the wheel forward until the chain is too loose.
If the chain is too loose, turn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive chain has the correct amount of slack. To keep the chain and wheel properly aligned, the notch on the left chain adjuster should align with the same swingarm mark [E] as the right chain adjuster notch [F].
Drive Chain Slack
Standard: 54
∼
64 mm (2.1
∼
2.5 in.)
•
Check the wheel alignment (see Wheel Alignment Inspection in the Final Drive chapter).
WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition.
Be sure the wheel is properly aligned.
2-30 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts securely.
•
Replace the rear axle nut with a new one.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
•
Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest position, and readjust it if necessary.
•
Install a new cotter pin [A] through the axle, and bend its ends.
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Tighten the axle nut to the proper torque and install a new cotter pin.
•
Check the rear brake effectiveness.
NOTE
○
In wet and muddy conditions, mud sticks to the chain and sprockets resulting in an overly tight chain, and the chain may break. To prevent this, adjust the chain to 64
∼
74 mm (2.5
∼
2.9 in.) of slack whenever necessary.
Drive Chain Lubrication
○
The chain should be lubricated with a lubricant which will both prevent the exterior from rusting and also absorb shock and reduce friction in the interior of the chain.
If the chain is especially dirty, it should be washed in diesel oil or kerosene, and afterward soaked in a heavy oil. Shake the chain while it is in the oil so that oil will penetrate into the inside of each roller.
•
An effective, good quality lubricant specially formulated for chains is best for regular chain lubrication.
•
If a special lubricant is not available, a heavy oil such as
SAE90 is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication.
•
Apply oil to the sides of the rollers so that oil will penetrate into the rollers and bushings.
•
Wipe off any excess oil.
Oil Applied Area [A]
Sprocket Wear Inspection
•
Visually inspect the front and rear sprocket teeth for wear and damage.
If they are worn as illustrated or damaged, replace the sprocket, and inspect the drive chain wear.
Worn Tooth (Engine Sprocket) [A]
Worn Tooth (Rear Sprocket) [B]
Direction of Rotation [C]
NOTE
○
If a sprocket requires replacement, the chain is probably worn also. When replacing a sprocket, inspect the chain.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout) Inspection
•
Using the jack, raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Set a dial gauge [A] against the rear sprocket [B] near the teeth as shown.
•
Rotate [C] the rear wheel slowly to measure the sprocket warp (runout).
○
The difference between the highest and lowest dial gauge readings is the amount of warp (runout).
Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout)
Standard: TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the rear sprocket.
Drive Chain Guide, Guide Roller, Chain Slipper
Wear Inspection
•
Visually inspect the drive chain guide [A] and replace it if excessively worn or damaged.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-31
•
Visually inspect the upper and lower chain guide rollers
[A] and replace them if excessively worn or damaged.
•
Visually inspect the chain slipper [A] on the swingarm and replace it if excessively worn or damaged.
2-32 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Brakes
•
Brake Lever and Pedal Adjustment
Slide the dust cover [A].
•
Adjust the brake lever [B] to suit the rider’s preference.
○
Loosen the locknut [C] and turn the adjuster [D] to either side.
•
After adjustment, tighten the locknut.
WARNING
An improperly adjusted brake could drag and cause the brake to overheat, damaging the brake assembly and possibily locking the rear wheel, resulting in loss of control. Always maintain the proper brake adjustment.
NOTE
○
Usually it is not necessary to adjust the pedal position, but always adjust it when the master cylinder is disassembled or pedal position is incorrect.
•
Measure the length [A].
Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Length
Standard: 57.5 mm (2.26 in.)
If it is not within the standard, adjust the push rod in the master cylinder as follows.
○
Loosen the push rod locknut [A].
○
Turn the adjusting bolt [B] to obtain the specified length.
○
Tighten the locknut.
Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut: 17.5 N·m
(1.78 kgf·m, 12.9 ft·lb)
Brake Fluid Level Inspection
Front Brake Reservoir
•
Check the brake fluid level in the front brake reservoir [A] and the front reservoir must be kept above the lower level line [B].
NOTE
○
Hold the reservoir horizontal when checking brake fluid level.
If the brake fluid in the front brake reservoir is below the lower level line, check for fluid leaks in the brake line.
If the brake fluid in the front brake reservoir is below the lower level line, fill the brake fluid to the upper level line as follows.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
○
Remove:
Screws [A]
Brake Reservoir Cap [B]
Diaphragm
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-33
○
Inside the reservoir [A] is stopped end showing the upper level line [B].
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can reduce the brake system’s effectiveness and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not mix two brands of brake fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
Recommended Disc Brake Fluid
Grade: DOT3 or DOT4
○
Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
○
Tighten:
Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15
kgf·m, 13 in·lb)
2-34 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Rear Brake Reservoir
•
Check the brake fluid level in the rear brake reservoir [A] and the rear reservoir must always be kept the upper level line [B].
NOTE
○
Hold the reservoir horizontal when checking brake fluid level.
If the brake fluid is below the upper level line, check for fluid leaks in the brake line.
If the brake fluid is below the upper level line, fill the brake fluid to the upper level line as follows.
○
Remove:
Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt and Washer [C]
Rear Brake Reservoir
Rear Brake Reservoir Cap [D]
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can reduce the brake system’s effectiveness and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not mix two brands of brake fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
Recommended Disc Brake Fluid
Grade: DOT4
○
Follow procedure below to install the rear brake fluid reservoir cap correctly.
○
First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clockwise [C] by hand until slight resistance is felt indicating that the cap is seated on the reservoir body, then tighten the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the brake fluid reservoir body [A].
○
Install:
Rear Brake Reservoir
Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt and Washer
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Brake Fluid Change
WARNING
When working with the disc brake, observe the pre-
•
cautions listed below.
Never reuse old brake fluid.
•
Do not use fluid from a container that has been left unsealed or that has been open for a long time.
•
Do not mix two types and brands of fluid for use in the brake. This lowers the brake fluid boiling point and could cause the brake to be ineffective.
It may also cause the rubber brake parts to deteriorate.
•
Don’t leave the reservoir cap off for any length of time to avoid moisture contamination of the fluid.
•
Don’t change the fluid in the rain or when a strong wind is blowing.
•
Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning of the brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts. Gasoline, engine oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.
•
When handling the disc pads or disc, be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on them.
Clean off any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc with a high flash-point solvent.
Do not use one which will leave an oily residue.
Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
•
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.
•
If any of the brake line fittings or the bleed valve is opened at any time, the AIR MUST BE BLED FROM
THE BRAKE LINE.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-35
Recommended Disc Brake Fluid
Grade:
Front
Rear
DOT3 or DOT4
DOT4
•
Level the brake fluid reservoir.
2-36 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Front Brake Reservoir
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Brake Reservoir Cap [B]
Diaphragm
Rear Brake Reservoir
•
Remove:
Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt and Washer [A]
Brake Reservoir [B]
Brake Reservoir Cap [C]
NOTE
○
The procedure to change the front brake fluid is as follows. Changing the rear brake fluid is the same as for the front brake.
•
Remove the rubber cap [A] on the bleed valve [B].
•
Attach a clear plastic hose [A] to the bleed valve on the caliper, and run the other end of the hose into a container.
•
Fill the reservoir with fresh specified brake fluid.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Change the brake fluid as follows:
○
Repeat this operation until fresh brake fluid comes out from the plastic hose or the color of the fluid changes.
1. Open the bleed valve [A].
2. Apply the brake and hold it [B].
3. Close the bleed valve [C].
4. Release the brake [D].
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-37
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can reduce the brake system’s effectiveness and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not mix two brands of brake fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
NOTE
○
The fluid level must be checked often during the changing operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid. If the fluid in the reservoir runs out any time during the changing operation, the brakes will need to be bled since air will have entered the brake line.
•
Remove the clear plastic hose.
Front Brake Reservoir
•
Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15
kgf·m, 13 in·lb)
Rear Brake Reservoir
•
Follow procedure below to install the rear brake fluid reservoir cap correctly.
○
First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clockwise [C] by hand until slight resistance is felt indicating that the cap is seated on the reservoir body, then tighten the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the brake fluid reservoir body [A].
•
Install:
Rear Brake Reservoir
Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt and Washer
•
Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.
Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)
•
After changing the fluid, check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
If necessary, bleed the air from the lines (see Brake Line
Bleeding in the Brakes chapter).
2-38 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Brake Pad Wear Inspection
•
Check the lining thickness [A] and condition of the brake pads in each caliper.
NOTE
○
It is able to check with the pads installed.
If either pad is damaged, replace both pads in the caliper as a set.
Brake Pad Lining Thickness
Standard: 4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
Service Limit: 1 mm (0.04 in.) [B]
If the lining thickness of either pad is less than the service limit, replace both pads in the caliper as a set.
Brake Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement
Front Master Cylinder Disassembly
•
Remove:
Front Master Cylinder (see Front Master Cylinder Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Reservoir Cap and Diaphragm (see Brake Fluid
Change)
○
Pour the brake fluid into a container.
•
Remove:
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt and Locknut
Brake Lever
Dust Cover
Retainer (use the inside circlip pliers: 57001-143)
Piston complete with Secondary Cup, Primary Cup and
Spring
NOTICE
Do not remove the secondary cup from the piston since removal will damage them.
[A] Dust Cover
[B] Retainer
[C] Washer
[D] Piston
[E] Secondary Cup
[F] Primary Cup
[G] Return Spring
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Rear Master Cylinder Disassembly
NOTE
○
Do not remove the push rod clevis for master cylinder disassembly since removal requires brake pedal position adjustment.
•
Remove:
Rear Master Cylinder (see Rear Master Cylinder Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Reservoir Cap (see Brake Fluid Change)
○
Pour the brake fluid into a container.
•
Remove:
Dust Cover on Push Rod
Retainer (use the inside circlip pliers: 57001-143)
Push Rod with Clevis installed
Piston complete with Secondary Cup, Primary Cup and
Spring
NOTICE
Do not remove the secondary cup from the piston since removal will damage them.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-39
[A] Dust Cover
[B] Push Rod
[C] Retainer
[D] Piston Stop
[E] Piston
[F] Secondary Cup
[G] Primary Cup
[H] Return Spring
[I] Circlip
[J] Connector
[K] O-ring
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
2-40 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Master Cylinder Assembly
•
Before assembly, clean all parts including the master cylinder with brake fluid or alcohol.
NOTICE
Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning of the brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning of these parts. Gasoline, engine oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely, and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.
•
Apply brake fluid to the removed parts and to the inner wall of the cylinder.
•
Take care not to scratch the piston assy and the inner wall of the cylinder.
•
Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease) to the following parts.
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt (Front)
Brake Lever Contact (Front)
Push Rod Contact
Dust Covers
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut: 5.9 N·m (0.60
kgf·m, 52 in·lb)
Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement
Front Caliper Disassembly
•
Remove:
Front Caliper (see Caliper Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Brake Pads (see Brake Pad Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Separate the caliper holder [A] from the caliper [B].
•
Remove the anti-rattle springs [C].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Using compressed air, remove the pistons. One way to remove the pistons is as follows.
○
Cover the caliper opening with a clean heavy cloth [A].
○
Remove the pistons by lightly applying compressed air [B] to the hose joint opening.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-41
WARNING
The piston in the brake caliper can crush hands and fingers. Never place your hand or fingers in front of the piston.
•
Pull out the pistons [A] on each cylinder by hand.
•
Remove the dust seal [B] and fluid seal [C] on each cylinder.
•
Remove the bleed valve and rubber cap.
Rear Caliper Disassembly
•
Remove:
Rear Caliper (see Caliper Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Brake Pads (see Brake Pad Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Separate the caliper holder [A] from the caliper [B].
•
Remove the anti-rattle spring [C].
•
Using compressed air, remove the piston.
○
Cover the caliper opening with a clean heavy cloth [A].
○
Remove the piston by lightly applying compressed air [B] to the hose joint opening.
WARNING
The piston in the brake caliper can crush hands and fingers. Never place your hand or fingers in front of the piston.
2-42 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
•
Pull out the piston [A] by hand.
•
Remove the dust seal [B] and fluid seal [C].
Remove the bleed valve and rubber cap.
Caliper Assembly
•
Clean the caliper parts except for the pads.
NOTICE
For cleaning of the parts, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol.
If you removed the bleed valve, install the bleed valve and rubber cap.
Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)
•
Replace the fluid seal(s) [A] with new ones.
○
Apply silicone grease to the fluid seal(s), and install them into the cylinder(s) by hand.
•
Replace the dust seal(s) [B] with new ones.
○
Apply brake fluid to the dust seal(s), and install them into the cylinder(s) by hand.
•
Apply brake fluid to the outside of the piston(s) [C], and push them into each cylinder by hand.
[D] Front Caliper
[E] Rear Caliper
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Install the anti-rattle spring(s) [A].
[B] Front Caliper
[C] Rear Caliper
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-43
•
Replace the friction boot(s) [A] and dust boot [B] if they are damaged.
•
Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease to the caliper holder shaft(s) [C] and holder holes (PBC is a special high-temperature, water-resistance grease).
•
Assemble the caliper and caliper holder.
[D] Front Caliper
[E] Rear Caliper
•
Install the pads (see Brake Pad Installation in the Brakes chapter).
•
Install the caliper (see Caliper Installation in the Brakes chapter).
•
Wipe up any spilled brake fluid on the caliper with wet cloth.
2-44 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Brake Hoses and Connections Inspection
•
Inspect the brake hose and fittings for deterioration, cracks and signs of leakage.
○
The high pressure inside the brake line can cause fluid to leak [A] or the hose to burst if the line is not properly maintained. Bend and twist the rubber hose while examining it.
Replace the hose if any cracks [B] or bulges [C] are noticed.
Tighten any loose fittings.
Brake Hose Replacement
NOTICE
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely washed away immediately.
Front Brake Hose
•
Remove:
Brake Hose Clamp Bolts [A]
Brake Hose Clamps [B]
Rear Brake Hose
•
Remove:
Caliper Guard Mounting Bolts [A]
Caliper Guard [B]
Screws [C]
Brake Hose Clamp [D]
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Brake Hose Clamp [B]
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts [C]
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove the front/rear brake hose banjo bolts [A] and washers [B].
•
Replace the washers with new ones.
○
When removing the brake hose, take care not to spill the brake fluid on the painted or plastic parts.
○
When removing the brake hose, temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-45
•
When installing the hoses, avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening or twisting, and run the hoses according to
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18
•
ft·lb)
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Bleed the brake line after installing the brake hose (see
Brake Line Bleeding in the Brakes chapter).
Suspension
Front Fork Inspection
•
Visually inspect the front fork for oil leakage, scoring or scratches on the outer surface of the inner tubes [A].
•
Holding the brake lever, pump the front fork back and forth manually to check for smooth operation.
If the fork shown damages or oil leak, replace the damaged parts.
If the fork rattles, inspect the oil level or tightening torque.
NOTICE
If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace it.
Excessive bending, followed by subsequent straightening, can weaken the inner tube.
Front Fork Oil Change
•
Remove the number plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Loosen the front fork top plug [A].
•
Remove the front forks (see Front Fork Removal in the
Suspension chapter).
•
Thoroughly clean the fork before disassembly.
NOTICE
Be careful not scratch the inner tube and not to damage the dust seal.
Avoid scratching or damaging the inner tube or the dust seal. Use a mild detergent and sponge out dirt with plenty of water.
2-46 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Take the top plug [A] with the push rod off.
•
Compress the outer tube [B].
•
Press [A] the fork spring [B] away from the top plug and slip the fork spring holder [C] on top of the spring seat and under the push rod nut [D].
Special Tool - Fork Spring Holder: 57001-1286
•
Hold the front fork tube [A] upside down over a clean container [B] and drain the oil.
NOTE
○
Pump the push rod [C] up and down to discharge the fork oil.
•
Hold the front fork [A] at the inverted position for more than 20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.
•
Clean the threads [A] of the front fork cylinder unit [B] and front fork compression valve assembly [C].
•
Hold the front fork cylinder unit upright with the piston rod fully stretched.
•
Pour the specified oil.
Suspension Oil - KHL15-10 (1L): 44091-0004
KHL15-10 (4L): 44091-0011
Fork Oil Amount (completely dry)
310 ±4 mL (10.5 ±0.1 US oz)
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
NOTE
○
While doing this, take care to keep the oil level topped off that it stays above the two large holes [A] near the top of the inner tube [B].
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-47
•
Screw the fork piston rod puller [A] onto the end of the rod.
Special Tool - Fork Piston Rod Puller, M10 × 1.0: 57001
-1298
•
Purge the air from the fork cylinder by gently moving the piston rod up and down several times.
•
Purge the air from between the inner [A] and outer [B] tubes by pumping the outer tube up and down [C].
NOTICE
Never extend the fork fully, oil will be forced from between the tubes into the inner tube through the holes at the top of it. This raised the oil level in the inner tube. If the fork is extended to the full length of its normal travel, the oil level will be raised about
30 mm (1.18 in.).
•
After purging the air from the assembly, let it sit for about five minutes so that any suspended air bubbles can sur-
• face.
Check the oil level.
○
With the fork fully compressed, put the oil level gauge [A] on the top of the tube [B].
○
Inspect the distance from the top of the outer tube to the oil.
Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290
NOTE
○
The gauge tube is graduated in 1 cm division.
○
The gauge body is graduated in 10 mL (0.134 US oz) division, excluding the gauge tube of about 5 mL (0.17
US oz) capacity.
Oil Level (fully compressed, without spring)
Standard: 95 ±2 mm (3.74 ±0.08 in.)
•
Adjustable Range: 75
∼
115 mm (2.95
∼
4.53 in.)
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Top Plug: 28 N·m (2.9 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
2-48 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Rear Shock Absorber Oil Change
The oil should be changed in the rear shock absorber in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart. The frequency for best performance must be based upon riding conditions and rider ability.
The disassembly procedure is included in the oil change procedure.
Disassembly for Oil Change
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal in the Suspension chapter).
•
Remove the shock absorber spring (see Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement in the Suspension chapter).
•
Insert a suitable tool to hole [A] of the reservoir cap, and release the nitrogen gas completely (keep the suitable tool inserted).
○
For instructions on how to use the tool, follow the operation manual provided by the manufacturer.
WARNING
The shock contains high-pressure nitrogen gas that when suddenly released can eject oil and internal shock parts at high velocity, causing serious injury.
To avoid injury, do not point a suitable tool toward your face or body when releasing nitrogen gas pressure since an oil mist is often released with the nitrogen. Always release nitrogen gas pressure before disassembling the rear shock absorber to prevent explosive separation of parts.
•
Hold the lower of the rear shock absorber with a vise.
•
Adjust the compression damping adjuster [A] and rebound damping adjuster [B] to the softest position.
•
Tap the notches [A] on the stopper [B] with suitable tools to free the stopper from the rear shock body [C].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Slide up the stopper of the piston rod, then push the oil seal [A] to remove the circlip [B].
•
Remove the circlip.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-49
•
Wrap a heavy cloth around the rear shock body [A] and piston rod to prevent the oil diffusion.
•
Lightly move the piston rod back and forth, and pull out the piston rod assembly [B].
•
Drain the oil.
•
Push the gas reservoir cap [A] to remove the circlip [B].
•
Remove:
Circlip [A]
Gas Reservoir Cap [B] with Bladder
•
Drain the remains oil.
•
Visually inspect the piston [A], O-ring [B], and oil seal assembly [C].
If the piston, O-ring and oil seal assembly are badly scored, rusty or damaged, replace the piston rod assembly with a new one.
2-50 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Assembly for Oil Change
•
Check that the bladder [A] on the gas reservoir cap [B] is not partially collapsed.
If it is, push down the valve core with a standard tip screwdriver.
•
Check the bladder for sign of damage or crack.
If necessary, replace it with a new one.
NOTICE
Do not use a damaged or partially collapsed bladder, because it may burst, gently reducing rear shock performance.
•
Apply grease to the lip [C] of the bladder and install it on the gas reservoir cap.
•
Push the bladder into the gas reservoir slowly until it just clears the circlip groove. Wipe out any spilled oil.
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
•
Mount the circlip in the groove in the gas reservoir.
WARNING
Pressurized nitrogen gas can explode out of the shock reservoir cap if a weakened, deformed or flawed circlip is used, allowing oil and internal parts to burst out of the reservoir with great force and cause serious injury. To avoid injury, always use a new circlip whenever the shock is reassembled.
•
Pour the specified oil into the rear shock body so that the distance [A] from the rear shock body lower end to the oil level is about 50 mm (1.97 in.).
Suspension Oil - KHV10-K2C (1L): 45024-0002
Amount:
162 mL (5.48 US oz.)
•
Hold the upper portion of the rear shock absorber in a vise with soft jaws or heavy cloth.
•
Apply shock absorber oil to the bushing and O-ring of the piston rod assembly [A].
•
Insert the piston end of the piston rod assembly into the rear shock body [B] slowly.
○
Do not insert the oil seal assembly [C] yet.
•
Purge the air from rear shock body by slowly pumping the piston rod assembly in and out.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Push the oil seal assembly into the rear shock body until it just clears the circlip groove.
•
Replace the circlip [A] with a new one.
•
Fit the circlip into the groove in the rear shock body [B].
•
Pull up [C] the piston rod assembly [D] against the circlip.
NOTICE
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-51
If the circlip is not a certain fit in the groove in the rear shock body, the piston rod assembly may come out of the shock absorber when injecting the nitrogen gas or riding the motorcycle.
•
Force the stopper [A] into the rear shock body [B] by lightly tapping around the edge of the stopper with a plastic mallet [C].
•
Fully extend the piston rod assembly.
•
•
Pull up the gas reservoir cap [A] against the circlip [B].
Pump slowly the piston rod assembly up and down.
•
Hold the lower of the piston assembly in a vice with soft jaws or heavy cloth to allow to the air to rise in upper of the rear shock body.
•
Remove the compression damping adjuster [A].
•
Remount the upper portion of the shock absorber in a vise with soft jaws or heavy cloth.
•
Add the specified oil up to the damping adjuster assembly hole neck [A].
2-52 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Purge the air from between the gas reservoir [A] and rear shock body [B] by slowly pumping the piston rod [C] in and out.
•
Replace the O-ring [A] with a new one and apply shock absorber oil.
•
Install the compression damping adjuster [B] slowly.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Compression Damping Adjuster: 17.5 N·m (1.78
kgf·m, 12.9 ft·lb)
•
Wipe off all oil from the shock absorber body and piston rod.
•
Fully extend the piston rod assembly.
•
Inject the nitrogen gas to a pressure of 50 kPa (0.5
kgf/cm², 7 psi) through the gas reservoir cap hole.
•
Check the rear shock body and gas reservoir for oil and gas leaks. If there are leaks, reassemble the related parts.
•
Inject the nitrogen gas up to the 980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm²,
142 psi) pressure.
WARNING
High pressure gas is dangerous and can explode, causing serious injury. To avoid injury, have a qualified mechanic pressurize the shock reservoir with nitrogen gas only. Do not use air or other gases, since they may cause premature wear, rust, fire hazard or substandard performance.
•
Install the spring (see Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement).
•
Install the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber
Installation in the Suspension chapter).
•
Adjust the spring preload (see Spring Preload Adjustment in the Suspension chapter).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Swingarm and Uni-Trak Linkage Inspection
•
Check the uni-trak component parts for wear periodically, or whenever excessive play is suspected.
•
Using the jack under the frame, raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Pump the seat down and up [A] 4 or 5 times, and inspect the smooth stroke.
If the uni-trak linkage does not smooth stroke or noise is found, inspect the uni-trak linkage bearings.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-53
•
Push and pull on the swingarm [A] to check for wear.
A small amount of play on the swingarm is normal and no corrective action is needed. However, if excessive play is felt, remove the uni-trak parts from the frame and check for wear.
Swingarm and Uni-Trak Linkage Pivot Lubrication
•
Refer to the Swingarm Bearing Installation and Rocker
Arm Bearing Installation in the Suspension chapter.
Steering
Steering Inspection
•
Using the jack, raise the front wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
With the front wheel pointing straight ahead, alternately nudge each end of the handlebars.
○
The front wheel should swing fully to left and right from the force of gravity until the fork hits the stop.
If the steering binds or catches before the stop, check the routing of the cables, hoses, and harnesses.
If the steering feels tight, adjust or lubricate the steering.
•
Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull [A] the front fork back and forth.
If play is felt, the steering is too loose and needs to be adjusted.
Steering Adjustment
•
Using the jack, raise the front wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
2-54 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Handlebars (see Handlebar Removal in the Steering chapter)
•
Loosen the front fork clamp bolts (upper) on both sides.
•
Loosen the steering stem head nut [A].
•
Turn the steering stem nut [B] with the steering stem nut wrench [C] to obtain the proper adjustment.
If the steering is too tight, loosen the stem nut a fraction of a turn; if the steering is too loose, tighten the nut a fraction of a turn.
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
NOTE
○
Turn the nut 1/8 turn at a time maximum.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Steering Stem Head Nut: 64 N·m (6.5 kgf·m, 47 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
•
Check the steering again.
If the steering is too tight or too loose, repeat the adjustment as mentioned above.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Steering Stem Bearing Lubrication
•
Remove the steering stem (see Steering Stem, Stem
Bearing Removal in the Steering chapter).
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, wash the upper and lower tapered rollers in the cages, and wipe the upper and lower outer races, which are press-fitted into the frame head pipe, clean off grease and dirt.
•
Visually inspect the outer races and rollers.
Replace the bearing assemblies if they show wear or damage.
•
Pack the upper and lower tapered roller bearings [A] in the cages with grease, and apply a light coat of grease to the upper and lower outer races.
•
Install the steering stem (see Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Installation in the Steering chapter).
•
Adjust the steering (see Steering Adjustment).
Frame
•
Frame Inspection
Clean the frame with steam cleaner.
•
Visually inspect the frame and rear frame for cracks, dents, bending, or warp.
If there is any damage to the frame, replace it.
WARNING
A repaired frame may fail in use, possibly causing an accident resulting in injury or death. If the frame is bent, dented, cracked, or warped, replace it.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Electrical System
Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection
•
Clean the cylinder head around the spark plug before removing the spark plug.
•
Remove the spark plug cap [A].
•
Remove the spark plug [B].
•
Clean the spark plug, preferably in a sandblasting device, and then clean off any abrasive particles. The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash-point solvent and a nonmetal brush (nylon etc.).
If the spark plug electrodes are corroded or damaged, or if the insulator is cracked, replace the plug. Use the standard spark plug.
•
Measure the gap [A] with a wire-type thickness gauge.
If the gap is incorrect, carefully bend the side electrode
[B] with a suitable tool to obtain the correct gap.
Spark Plug Gap
Standard: 0.7
∼
0.8 mm (0.028
∼
0.031 in.)
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-55
•
Install the spark plug finger-tighten it first.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Spark Plug: 25.5 N·m (2.60 kgf·m, 18.8 in·lb)
•
Install the spark plug cap (see Ignition Coil Installation in the Electrical System chapter).
•
Pull up the spark plug cap lightly to make sure of the installation of the plug cap.
Spark Plug Replacement
•
Refer to the Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection.
General Lubrication and Cable Inspection
Lubrication
•
Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.
•
Lubricate the points listed below with indicated lubricant.
NOTE
○
Whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions, or especially after using a high-pressure water spray, perform the general lubrication.
2-56 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Points: Lubricate with Grease.
Clutch Inner Cable Upper and Lower Ends [A]
Throttle Inner Cable Upper End
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt
Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt
Brake Pedal Bolt
Cables: Lubricate with Rust Inhibitor.
Throttle Inner Cable
Clutch Inner Cable
Pivots: Lubricate with engine oil.
Rear Master Cylinder Joint Pin
Cable Inspection
•
With the cable disconnected at the both ends, the cable should move freely [A] within the cable housing.
If cable movement is not free after lubricating, if the cable is frayed [B], or if the cable housing is kinked [C], replace the cable.
Nut, Bolt, and Fastener Tightness Inspection
Tightness Inspection
•
Check the tightness of the bolts and nuts listed here in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart. Also, check to see that each cotter pin is in place and in good condition.
NOTE
○
For the engine fasteners, check the tightness of them when the engine is cold (at room temperature).
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-57
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
If there are loose fasteners, retighten them to the specified torque following the specified tightening sequence.
Refer to the Torque and Locking Agent section in this chapter for torque specifications. For each fastener, first loosen it by 1/2 turn, then tighten it.
If cotter pins are damaged, replace them with new ones.
Nut, Bolt and Fastener to be checked
Wheels:
Spoke Nipples
Bead Protector Nut
Front Axle Nut Cotter Pin
Front Axle Nut
Front Axle Clamp Bolts
Rear Axle Nut Cotter Pin
Rear Axle Nut
Final Drive:
Chain Adjuster Locknut
Rear Sprocket Nuts
Brakes:
Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
Brake Pedal Bolt
Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Cotter Pin
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts
Rear Caliper Holder Shaft
Rear Caliper Holder Nut
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
Suspension:
Front Fork Clamp Bolts
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolts
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Uni-Trak Link Nuts
Steering:
Steering Stem Head Nut
Handlebar Holder Bolts
Engine:
Throttle Cable Adjuster Locknut
Engine Mounting Bolts, Nuts
Engine Bracket Mounting Bolts, Nuts
Shift Pedal Bolt
Clutch Cable Adjuster Locknut
Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
Kick Pedal Bolt
Others:
Footpeg Cotter Pins
Rear Frame Pipe Nuts
Front Fender Bolts
Rear Fender Bolts
Rear Flap Bolts
FUEL SYSTEM 3-1
Fuel System
Table of Contents
3
3-2 FUEL SYSTEM
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Reed Valve Screws
2 Carburetor Holder Mounting Bolts
3 Carburetor Mounting Clamp Screw
CL: Apply cable lubricant.
G: Apply grease.
R: Replacement Parts
FUEL SYSTEM 3-3
N·m
1.0
9.4
1.5
Torque kgf·m
0.10
1.0
0.15
ft·lb
8.9 in·lb
83 in·lb
13 in·lb
Remarks
3-4 FUEL SYSTEM
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Fuel Tank Screws
AD: Apply adhesive.
G: Apply grease.
O: Apply high-quality foam air filter oil.
R: Replacement Parts
FUEL SYSTEM 3-5
N·m
5.0
Torque kgf·m
0.51
ft·lb
44 in·lb
Remarks
3-6 FUEL SYSTEM
Specifications
Item
Throttle Grip and Cables
Throttle Grip Free Play
Carburetor
Make/type
Main Jet
Main air jet
Throttle Valve Cutaway
Jet Needle:
KX85C/D
KX100F
Jet Needle Clip Position
Pilot Jet (Slow jet)
Air Screw
KX85C/D
KX100F
Starter Jet
Service Fuel Level
(below from the float bowl mating surface)
Float height
Air Cleaner
Element
Element Oil
Reed Valve
Reed Warp
Standard
2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12 in.)
KEIHIN PWK28
#140
#60
#3.5
NRJC
NRKC
3rd groove from the top
#38
1 1/2 turns out
1 7/8 turns out
#62
1.0 ±1 mm (0.04 ±0.04 in.)
19.0 ±2 mm (0.75 ±0.08 in.)
Polyurethane foam
High quality foam air filter oil
– – –
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
Special Tool
Fuel Level Gauge, M18 × 1.0:
57001-122
FUEL SYSTEM 3-7
3-8 FUEL SYSTEM
Throttle Grip and Cable
If the throttle grip has excessive free play due to cable stretch or misadjustment, there will be a delay in throttle response. Also, the throttle valve may not open fully at full throttle. On the other hand, if the throttle grip has no play, the throttle will be hard to control, and the idle speed will be erratic. Check the throttle grip play periodically in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, and adjust the play if necessary.
The throttle cable routing is shown in Cable, Wire, and
Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
Throttle Grip (Throttle Cable) Free Play Inspection
•
Refer to the Throttle Grip Free Play Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Throttle Grip (Throttle Cable) Free Play
Adjustment
•
Refer to the Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Throttle Cable Replacement
•
Slide out the rubber boot [A] and cable housing dust cover
[B].
•
Remove the screws [C] and throttle case cover [D].
•
•
Loosen the locknut [A] and turn in the adjuster [B].
Remove the upper end [C] of the throttle cable.
•
Remove the adjuster and locknut from the throttle case
[D].
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Bolt [A]
Band [B]
Throttle Grip and Cable
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Carburetor Cap [B] with Throttle Valve Assembly
•
Free the lower end [A] of the throttle cable from the throttle valve assembly.
•
Loosen the locknut [B] and adjuster [C] and remove the throttle cable [D].
•
Lubricate the throttle cable (see Chassis Parts Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the throttle cable.
○
Run the throttle cable correctly (see Cable, Wire, and
Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
After installation, adjust the throttle cable properly (see
Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed or damaged cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Follow the service manual to make sure to correct any of these conditions.
Throttle Cable Lubrication
•
Refer to the Chassis Parts Lubrication in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Throttle Cable Inspection
•
Refer to the Cable Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
FUEL SYSTEM 3-9
3-10 FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor
Idle Speed Adjustment
•
Refer to the Idle Speed Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Main Jet Replacement Notes
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
Make sure the engine is cold before working. Wipe any fuel off the engine before starting it.
•
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “OFF” position.
•
Remove the carburetor (see Carburetor Removal).
•
Place a container under the fuel drain plug.
•
Drain the fuel from the carburetor by removing the fuel drain plug.
•
Replace the main jet [A] with the desired one.
•
•
Replace the drain plug O-ring with a new one.
•
Tighten the drain plug securely.
Install the carburetor (see Carburetor Installation).
Service Fuel Level Inspection
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
•
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “OFF” position.
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Carburetor (see Carburetor Removal)
○
The fuel hose and throttle cable do not have to be removed to inspect the fuel level.
•
Hold the carburetor in true vertical position on a stand.
•
Put the fuel tank on a bench, and connect the fuel tap to the carburetor using a suitable hose.
Carburetor
•
Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the float bowl, and screw a fuel level gauge [A] into the plug hole.
Special Tool - Fuel Level Gauge, M18 × 1.0: 57001-122
•
Hold the gauge vertically against the side of the carburetor body so that the “zero” line [C] is several millimeters
• higher than the bottom edge [B] of the carburetor body.
•
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “ON” position to feed fuel to the carburetor.
•
Wait until the fuel level in the gauge settles.
Keeping the gauge vertical, slowly lower the gauge until the “zero” line is even with the bottom edge of the carburetor body.
NOTE
○
Do not lower the “zero” line below the bottom edge of the carburetor body. If the gauge is lowered and then raised again, the fuel level gauge shows somewhat higher than the actual fuel level. If the gauge is lowered too far, dump the fuel out of it into a suitable container and start the procedure over again.
•
Read the fuel level [D] in the gauge and compare it to the specification.
Service Fuel Level (below from the foat bowl mating surface)
Standard: 1.0 ±1 mm (0.04 ±0.04 in.)
If the fuel level is incorrect, adjust it.
•
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “OFF” position and remove
• the fuel level gauge.
•
Replace the drain plug O-ring with a new one.
Install the drain plug on the bottom of the float bowl.
Service Fuel Level Adjustment
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
•
Remove the carburetor, and drain the fuel into a suitable container (see Carburetor Removal).
•
Remove the float bowl (see Carburetor Disassembly).
FUEL SYSTEM 3-11
3-12 FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor
•
Drive out the pivot pin [A] and remove the float [B] with float valve needle [C].
•
Bend the tang [A] on the float arm very slightly to change the float height. Increasing the float height lowers the fuel level and decreasing the float height raises the fuel level.
Float Height
Standard: 19.0 ±2 mm (0.75 ±0.08 in.)
NOTE
○
Float height [A] is the distance from the float bowl mating surface [B] of the carburetor body (with the gasket removed) to the top of the float [C]. Measure the height with the carburetor upside down.
○
Do not push the needle rod [D] in during the float height measurement.
•
Assemble the carburetor, and recheck the fuel level.
If the fuel level cannot be adjusted by this method, the float or the float valve is damaged.
Carburetor Removal
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
Carburetor
•
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “OFF” position.
•
Free the carburetor overflow hose [A] from the clamp [B] on the magnet cover.
•
Slide out the clamp [C] and disconnect the fuel hose [D].
•
Remove the upper end of the throttle cable (see Throttle
Cable Replacement).
•
Loosen the clamp screws [E].
•
Remove the carburetor [F] from the end of the air cleaner duct [G], and then pull it out of the carburetor holder [H].
•
Remove the screws [A], and pull out the throttle valve assembly [B].
NOTICE
If the throttle valve is not removed from the cable, wrap it in a clean cloth to avoid damage.
•
After removing the carburetor, cover the carburetor holder and air cleaner duct with a clean cloth to protect them from dirt.
WARNING
If dirt or dust is allowed to pass through into the carburetor, the throttle may become stuck, possibly causing accident. Replace the air cleaner element according to the maintenance chart.
NOTICE
If dirt gets through into the engine, excessive engine wear and possibly engine damage will occur.
Carburetor Installation
•
Being careful not to bend or otherwise damage the jet needle [A], insert the throttle valve assembly [B] into the carburetor body.
○
Check to see that the throttle valve goes all the way down into the carburetor body, and slides smoothly.
•
Fit the projection [A] into the notch [B] on the carburetor holder.
FUEL SYSTEM 3-13
3-14 FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor
•
Install the clamps [A].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Carburetor Mounting Clamp Screw [B]: 1.5 N·m
(0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb)
•
Route the air vent and overflow hoses through the clamp on the crankcase (see Cable, Wire and Hose Routing
Section in the Appendix chapter).
NOTICE
Always keep the hoses free of obstruction, and make sure they do not get pinched by the chain or shock absorber.
•
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “ON” position, and check for fuel leakage from the carburetor.
WARNING
Fuel spilled from the carburetor is hazardous.
○
Adjust the following items if necessary:
Throttle Cable (see Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the periodic Maintenance chapter)
Idle Speed (see Idle Speed Adjustment in the periodic
Maintenance chapter)
Carburetor Disassembly
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
•
•
Remove the carburetor (see Carburetor Removal).
Disassemble the throttle valve assembly as follows.
○
Free the end of the throttle cable [A] from the hook [B] of the throttle valve [C].
Carburetor
○
Slide the jet needle [A] out of the throttle valve.
○
Pull out the snap ring [B], and remove the throttle cable from the carburetor cap [C].
•
Remove the following parts from the carburetor body.
Choke Plunger Assembly [D]
Idle Adjusting Screw and Spring [E]
Air Screw and Spring [F]
Float Bowl [G]
Float [H]
Pivot Pin [I] (drive out)
Main Jet [J]
Float Valve [K]
Pilot Jet [L]
Main Jet Holder [M]
Needle Jet [N]
Spring [O]
Spring Seat [P]
FUEL SYSTEM 3-15
Carburetor Assembly
•
Clean the disassembly parts.
NOTICE
Do not overtighten the jets. They could be damaged requiring replacement.
•
Replace the float bowl O-ring and drain plug O-ring with new ones.
3-16 FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor
Carburetor Cleaning
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the carburetor in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Do not use gasoline or a low flash-point solvent to clean the carburetor.
•
Make sure the fuel tap lever is in the “OFF” position.
•
Remove the carburetor (see Carburetor Removal).
•
Drain the fuel in the carburetor.
•
Disassemble the carburetor (see Carburetor Disassembly).
NOTICE
Do not use compressed air on an assembled carburetor, the float may be deformed by the pressure.
Remove as many rubber or plastic parts from the carburetor as possible before cleaning the carburetor with a cleaning solution. This will prevent damage or deterioration of the parts. Do not use a strong carburetor cleaning solution which could attack the plastic parts; instead, use a mild high flash-point cleaning solution safe for plastic parts.
Do not use wire or any other hard instrument to clean carburetor parts, especially jets, as they may be damaged.
•
•
Immerse all metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution.
After the parts are cleaned, dry them with compressed air.
•
Blow through the air and fuel passages with compressed air [A].
•
Assemble the carburetor, and install it on the motorcycle
(see Carburetor Assembly/Installation).
Carburetor Inspection
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
Carburetor
•
Remove the carburetor (see Carburetor Removal).
•
Before disassembling the carburetor, check the fuel level
(see Fuel Level Inspection).
If the fuel level is incorrect, inspect the rest of the carburetor before correcting it.
•
Pull the carburetor cable to check that the throttle valve moves smoothly and returns by spring pressure.
If the throttle valve does not move smoothly, replace the carburetor body so that it returns by spring force.
•
Clean the carburetor (see Carburetor Cleaning).
•
Check the plastic tip [A] of the float valve needle [B].
It should be smooth without any grooves, scratches, or tears.
If the plastic tip is damaged [C], replace the needle.
•
Push the rod [D] in the valve, then release [E] it.
If the rod does not spring out, replace the valve.
•
Check the jet needle and needle jet for damage.
The damaged jet needle should be replaced.
If the needle jet is damaged, replace the carburetor body.
•
Check the starter jet in the float bowl for damage.
If the starter jet is damaged, replace the float bowl.
FUEL SYSTEM 3-17
3-18 FUEL SYSTEM
Air Cleaner
Air Cleaner Case Removal
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Rear Fender (see Rear Fender Removal/Installation in the Frame chapter)
Rear Frap (see Rear Flap Removal/Installation in the
Frame chapter)
Rear Frame Pipe (see Rear Frame Pipe Removal in the
Frame chapter)
Muffler (see Muffler Removal in the Engine Top End
• chapter)
Loosen the clamp screw [A].
•
Remove the bolts [B].
•
Remove the air cleaner case [C] with air cleaner duct [D].
Air Cleaner Case Installation
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Element Removal/Installation
•
Refer to the Air Cleaner Element Cleaning and Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Element Cleaning and Inspection
•
Refer to the Air Cleaner Element Cleaning and Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank Removal
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Shrouds (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the Frame
• chapter)
Turn the fuel tap lever [A] to the “OFF” position.
•
Slide out the clamp [B] and pull off the fuel hose [C].
NOTICE
Take care not to give excessive forces to the fuel hose to prevent damage. Do not use the pliers.
•
Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt [A] and the band [B].
•
Remove the fuel tank [C].
FUEL SYSTEM 3-19
Fuel Tank Installation
•
Check that the dampers [A] are in place on the frame.
If the dampers are damaged or deteriorated, replace them with new ones.
•
Install the fuel tank.
•
Be sure the fuel hose is clamped to the fuel tap to prevent leaks.
•
Insert the fuel tank breather hose outlet end into the steering stem hole.
3-20 FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel Tank
•
Fuel Tap Removal
Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal).
•
Drain the fuel.
•
Remove the bolts [A] and take off the fuel tap [B].
•
Fuel Tap Installation
Replace the gasket [A] with a new one.
•
Install the fuel tap.
○
Turn the fuel tap lever to the “OFF” position.
Fuel Tank and Tap Cleaning
•
Refer to the Fuel System Clean in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Fuel Tap Inspection
Remove the fuel tap (see Fuel Tap Removal).
•
Check the fuel tap screen [A] for any breaks or deterioration.
If the fuel tap screen have any breaks or deteriorations, it may allow dirt to reach the carburetor, causing poor running. Replace the fuel tap.
If the fuel tap leaks, or allows fuel to flow when it is at
“OFF” position, replace the damaged gasket [B] or fuel tap.
Reed Valve
Reed Valve Removal
•
Remove:
Carburetor (see Carburetor Removal)
Carburetor Holder Mounting Bolts [A]
Clamp [B]
Carburetor Holder [C]
Reed Valve Assembly [D]
•
Reed Valve Installation
Installation is the reverse of removal.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Carburetor Holder Mounting Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
Reed Valve Inspection
•
Refer to the Reed Valve Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
FUEL SYSTEM 3-21
3-22 FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel Hose
Fuel Hoses and Connections Inspection
○
Check the fuel hose periodically in accordance with the
Periodic Maintenance Chart, and if the motorcycle is not properly handled, the inside the fuel line can cause fuel to leak [A] or the hose to burst. Remove the fuel tank and check the fuel hose.
Replace the fuel hose if any fraying, cracks [B] or bulges
[C] are noticed.
•
Check that the hoses are securely connected and clamps are tightened correctly.
•
When installing, route the hoses according to Cable, Wire and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
When installing the fuel hoses, avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening or twisting, and route the fuel hoses with a minimum of bending so that the fuel flow will not be obstructed.
Replace the hose if it has been sharply bent or kinked.
COOLING SYSTEM 4-1
Cooling System
Table of Contents
4
4-2 COOLING SYSTEM
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Water Hose Clamp Screws
2 Coolant Drain Bolt (Cylinder)
3 Air Bleeder Bolt
4 Water Pump Cover Bolts
5 Water Pump Impeller Bolt
6 Coolant Drain Bolt (Water Pump)
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
R: Replacement Parts
COOLING SYSTEM 4-3
Torque
N·m kgf·m ft·lb
3.0
0.31
27 in·lb
8.8
9.4
9.4
8.3
5.2
0.90
1.0
1.0
0.85
0.53
78 in·lb
83 in·lb
83 in·lb
73 in·lb
46 in·lb
Remarks
4-4 COOLING SYSTEM
Specifications
Item
Recommended Coolant
Type
Color
Mixed Ratio
Freezing Point
Total Amount
Radiator
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure
Standard
Permanent type antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators)
Green
Soft water 50%, coolant 50%
–35°C (–31°F)
0.57 L (0.60 US qt)
108
∼
137.4 kPa (1.10
∼
1.40 kgf/cm², 15.7
∼
19.9 psi)
Coolant
Coolant Level Inspection
•
Refer to the Coolant Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Coolant Deterioration Inspection
•
Refer to the Coolant Deterioration Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Coolant Draining
WARNING
Coolant can be extremely hot and cause severe burns, is toxic and very slippery. Do not remove the radiator cap or attempt to change the coolant when the engine is hot; allow it cool completely.
Immediately wipe any spilled coolant from tires, frame, engine or other painted parts. Do not ingest coolant.
NOTICE
The coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life.
•
Remove the radiator cap [A].
NOTE
○
Remove the radiator cap in two steps. First turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds. Then push down and turn it further in the same direction and remove the cap.
•
Place a container under the coolant drain bolt (water pump) [A].
•
Remove the coolant drain bolt (water pump) to drain the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM 4-5
•
Place a container under the coolant drain bolt (cylinder)
[A].
•
Remove the coolant drain bolt (cylinder) to drain the coolant.
•
Inspect the old coolant (see Coolant Deterioration Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
4-6 COOLING SYSTEM
Coolant
Coolant Filling
NOTICE
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminum engines and radiators in accordance with the instruction of the manufacture’s. Soft or distilled water must be used with the antifreeze (see below for antifreeze) in the cooling system. If hard water is used in the system, it causes scale accumulation in the water passages, and considerably reduces the efficiency of the cooling system.
Recommended Coolant
Type: Permanent type antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators)
Color: Green
Mixed Ratio: Soft water 50%, coolant 50%
Freezing Point: −35°C (−31°F)
Total Amount:
0.57 L (0.60 US qt)
•
Replace the drain bolt gaskets with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Coolant Drain Bolt (Cylinder): 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m,
78 in·lb)
Coolant Drain Bolt (Water Pump): 5.2 N·m (0.53
kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck
[A] with coolant [B].
○
Lean the motorcycle slightly so that the filler neck is located uppermost in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the radiator.
NOTE
○
Pour in the coolant slowly so that it can expel the air from the engine and radiator.
•
Loosen the air bleeder bolt [A] on the cylinder head until the coolant begins to flow out the air bleeder bolt hole.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Air Bleeder Bolt: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
Coolant
•
Tap the water hoses to force out any air bubbles [A] caught inside.
•
Check the coolant level (see Coolant Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
If the coolant level is low, add coolant up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.
COOLING SYSTEM 4-7
•
Install the radiator cap.
NOTE
○
The radiator cap must be installed in two steps. First turn the cap clockwise to the first stop. Then push down on it and turn it the rest of the way.
•
Start the engine, warm up the engine thoroughly, and then stop the engine.
•
Wait until the engine cools down.
•
Check the coolant level (see Coolant Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
If the coolant level is low, add coolant up to the bottom of
• the radiator filler neck.
•
Install the radiator cap.
Check the cooling system for leaks.
Cooling System Pressure Testing
NOTICE
During pressure testing, do not exceed the pressure for which the system is designed to work. The maximum pressure is 137.4 kPa (1.40 kgf/cm², 19.9
psi).
•
Remove the radiator cap, and install a cooling system pressure tester [A] and adapter [B] on the radiator filler neck [C].
NOTE
○
Wet the adapter cap sealing surfaces with water or coolant to prevent pressure leaks.
•
Build up pressure in the system carefully until the pressure reaches 137.4 kPa (1.40 kgf/cm², 19.9 psi).
•
Watch the gauge for at least 6 seconds.
If the pressure holds steady, the cooling system is all right.
If the pressure drops and no external source is found, check for internal leaks. Check the cylinder head gasket for leaks.
•
Remove the pressure tester, replenish the coolant, and install the radiator cap.
4-8 COOLING SYSTEM
Coolant
Cooling System Flushing
Over a period of time, the cooling system accumulates rust, scale, and lime in the water jacket and radiator. When this accumulation is suspected or observed, flush the cooling system. If this accumulation is not removed, it will clog up the water passages and considerably reduce the effi-
• ciency of the cooling system.
Drain the cooling system (see Coolant Draining).
•
Fill the cooling system with fresh water mixed with a flushing compound.
NOTICE
Avoid the use of a flushing compound which is harmful to the aluminum engine and radiators.
Carefully follow the instructions supplied by the manufacture of the cleaning product.
•
Warm up the engine, and run it at normal operating temperature for about 10 minutes.
•
Stop the engine, and drain the cooling system after the coolant cools down.
•
•
Fill the system with fresh water.
•
Warm up the engine and drain the system after the coolant cools down.
•
Repeat the previous two steps once more.
Fill the system with a permanent type coolant, and bleed the air from the system (see Coolant Filling).
Water Pump
•
Water Pump Cover Removal
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining).
•
Loosen the water hose clamp screws [A], and disconnect the water hoses [B].
•
Remove the water pump cover bolts [C] and water pump cover [D].
COOLING SYSTEM 4-9
•
Water Pump Cover Installation
Replace the water pump cover gasket [A] with a new one.
•
Install the dowel pins [B] and water pump cover.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Pump Cover Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
•
Install the water hoses [A] so that the paint mark [B] faces outside.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws [C]: 3.0 N·m (0.31
kgf·m, 27 in·lb)
Impeller Removal
•
Remove the water pump cover (see Water Pump Cover
Removal).
•
Remove the impeller bolt [A] and take out the impeller [B] and washer.
•
Impeller Installation
Install the washer [A] and impeller [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Pump Impeller Bolt: 8.3 N·m (0.85 kgf·m, 73 in·lb)
•
Install the water pump cover (see Water Pump Cover Installation).
4-10 COOLING SYSTEM
Water Pump
Water Pump Inspection
•
Visually check the impeller [A].
If the surface is corroded, or if the blades [B] are damaged, replace the impeller.
Water Pump Gear Removal
•
Remove the primary gear (see Primary Gear Removal in the Engine Right Side chapter).
•
Pull out the water pump gear [A] together with the shaft.
Water Pump Gear Installation
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Oil Seal and Bearing Removal
•
Refer to the Right Engine Cover Disassembly in the Engine Right Side chapter.
Oil Seal and Bearing Installation
•
Refer to the Right Engine Cover Assembly in the Engine
Right Side chapter.
Radiator
•
Radiator Removal
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining).
•
Remove:
Right Shroud (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the
Frame chapter)
•
Remove the radiator screen bolt [A].
•
Clear the hook [B] and remove the radiator screen [C].
COOLING SYSTEM 4-11
•
Disconnect the overflow hose [A].
•
Loosen the water hose clamp screws [B], and disconnect the water hoses [C].
•
Remove:
Radiator Mounting Bolts [A]
Clutch Cable Clamp [B]
Radiator [C]
Radiator Installation
•
Install:
Radiator
•
Clutch Cable Clamp [A]
Tighten the radiator mounting bolts securely.
•
Run the overflow hose and water hoses correctly (see
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
•
Install the radiator screen.
•
○
Fit the projections [B] and holes [C].
•
Tighten the radiator screen bolts securely.
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
4-12 COOLING SYSTEM
Radiator
Radiator Inspection
•
Check the radiator core.
If there are obstructions to air flow, remove them.
If the corrugated fins [A] are deformed, carefully straighten them with the standard tip screwdriver.
NOTICE
Do not tear the radiator tubes while straightening the fins.
If the air passages of the radiator core are blocked more than 20% by unremovable obstructions or irreparably deformed fins, replace the radiator with a new one.
NOTICE
When cleaning the radiator with steam cleaner, be careful of the following to prevent radiator damage.
Keep the steam gun [A] away more than 0.5 m (1.64
ft) [B] from the radiator core. Hold the steam gun perpendicular to the core surface. Run the steam gun following the core fin direction [C].
Radiator Cap Inspection
•
Check the top and bottom valve seals [A] of the radiator cap, and the condition of the valve spring [B].
If any one of them shows visible damage, replace the cap.
•
Wet the top and bottom valve seals with water or coolant to prevent pressure leaks.
•
Install the cap [A] on a cooling system pressure tester [B].
•
Watching the pressure gauge, slowly pump the pressure tester to build up the pressure. The gauge hand must remain within the relief pressure range in the table below at least 6 seconds. Continue to pump the tester until the relief valve opens, indicated by the gauge hand flicking downward. The relief valve must open within the specified range.
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure
Standard: 108
∼
137.4 kPa (1.10
∼
1.40 kgf/cm², 15.7
∼
19.9 psi)
If the cap cannot hold the pressure, or if the relief pressure is too high or too low, replace the cap with a new one.
Radiator
•
Filler Neck Inspection
Check the radiator filler neck for signs of damage.
•
Check the condition of the top and bottom sealing seats
[A] in the filler neck. They must be smooth and clean for the radiator cap to function properly.
COOLING SYSTEM 4-13
Water Hoses and Overflow Hose Inspection
•
Refer to the Water Hoses and Connections Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Water Hoses and Overflow Hose Installation
•
Install the water hoses or overflow hose being careful to follow the performed bends (see Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter). Avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening, or twisting.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
ENGINE TOP END 5-1
Engine Top End
Table of Contents
5
5-2 ENGINE TOP END
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Cylinder Head Nuts
2 Exhaust Valve Cover Screws
3 KIPS Cover Bolts
4 Exhaust Valve Lever Mounting Bolt
5 Exhaust Valve Plate Bolts
6 Cylinder Nuts
7 Muffler Body Cover Bolts
HG: Apply high-temperature grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
LG: Apply liquid gasket.
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
ENGINE TOP END 5-3
3.9
5.9
25
8.8
N·m
25
3.0
5.2
Torque kgf·m
2.5
0.31
0.53
0.40
0.60
2.5
0.90
ft·lb
18
27 in·lb
46 in·lb
35 in·lb
52 in·lb
18
78 in·lb
Remarks
S
L
S
L
5-4 ENGINE TOP END
Specifications
Item
Cylinder Head
Cylinder Compression
Standard Service Limit
Cylinder Head Warp
(Usable range)
826
∼
1 278 kPa (8.4
∼
13 kgf/cm², 120
∼
185 psi) at 5 times
– – –
– – –
0.03 mm (0.001 in.)
Cylinder, Piston
Cylinder Inside Diameter:
KX85C/D
KX100F
48.505
∼
48.520 mm (1.9096
∼
1.9102 in.)
52.515
∼
52.530 mm (2.0675
∼
2.0681 in.)
48.60 mm (1.913 in.)
52.62 mm (2.072 in.)
Piston Diameter:
KX85C/D
KX100F
48.444
∼
48.459 mm (1.9072
∼
1.9078 in.)
52.435
∼
52.450 mm (2.0644
∼
2.0650 in.)
48.29 mm (1.901 in.)
52.29 mm (2.059 in.)
Piston/cylinder
Clearance:
KX85C/D
KX100F
0.056
∼
0.066 mm (0.0022
∼
0.0026 in.)
0.075
∼
0.085 mm (0.0030
∼
0.0033 in.)
– – –
– – –
Piston Ring/groove
Clearance:
KX85C/D
KX100F
0.02
∼
0.06 mm (0.0008
∼
0.0024 in.)
0.04
∼
0.08 mm (0.0016
∼
0.0031 in.)
0.16 mm (0.0063 in.)
0.18 mm (0.0071 in.)
Piston Ring Groove
Width:
KX85C/D
KX100F
Piston Ring Thickness
1.01
∼
1.03 mm (0.0398
∼
0.0406 in.)
1.03
∼
1.05 mm (0.0406
∼
0.0413 in.)
0.97
∼
0.99 mm (0.038
∼
0.039 in.)
1.11 mm (0.0437 in.)
1.13 mm (0.0445 in.)
0.90 mm (0.035 in.)
Piston Ring End Gap
Piston Pin Diameter
0.30
∼
0.50 mm (0.012
∼
0.020 in.) 0.8 mm (0.03 in.)
13.995
∼
14.000 mm (0.55098
∼
0.55118 in.) 13.96 mm (0.5496 in.)
Piston Pin Hole Diameter 14.001
∼
14.011 mm (0.55122
∼
0.55161 in.) 14.08 mm (0.5543 in.)
Connecting Rod Small
End Inside Diameter
18.002
∼
18.013 mm (0.70874
∼
0.70917 in.) 18.05 mm (0.7106 in.)
Special Tools
Compression Gauge, 20 kgf/cm²:
57001-221
ENGINE TOP END 5-5
Compression Gauge Adapter, M14 × 1.25:
57001-1159
Piston Pin Puller Assembly:
57001-910
5-6 ENGINE TOP END
Cylinder Head
•
Compression Pressure Measurement
Start the engine.
•
Thoroughly warm up the engine so that the engine oil between the piston and cylinder wall will help seal compres-
• sion as it does during normal running.
Stop the engine.
•
Remove the spark plug (see Spark Plug Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Attach the compression gauge [A] and adapter [B] firmly into the spark plug hole.
Special Tools - Compression Gauge, 20 kgf/cm²: 57001-221
Compression Gauge Adapter, M14 × 1.25:
57001-1159
•
With the throttle fully open, turn the engine over sharply with the kickstarter several times until the compression gauge stops riding; the compression is the highest reading obtainable.
Compression Pressure (Usable Range)
826
∼
1 278 kPa (8.4
∼
13 kgf/cm², 120
∼
185 psi)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
○
The following table should be consulted if the obtained compression reading is not within the usable range.
Problem
Cylinder compression is higher than usable range
Cylinder compression is lower than usable range
Diagnosis
Carbon build up on the piston head and cylinder head, and in combustion chamber possibly due to poor quality engine oil, damaged crankshaft oil seals (This may be indicated by while exhaust smoke).
Incorrect cylinder base gasket thickness
Gasket leakage around cylinder head
Incorrect piston/cylinder clearance
Piston seizure
Bad condition of piston ring and/or piston ring grave
Gas leakage from the crank chamber
Remedy (Action)
Remove the carbon deposits, replace damaged parts, and replace the engine oil with good one, if necessary.
Replace the gasket with a standard part.
Replace gasket and check cylinder head warp.
Replace the piston and/or cylinder.
Inspect the cylinder and piston as necessary.
Replace the piston and/or piston ring.
Check the crankshaft oil seals and reed valves.
Cylinder Head Removal
•
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling
System chapter).
•
Remove:
Radiator (see Radiator Removal in the Cooling System chapter)
Expansion Chamber (see Expansion Chamber Removal)
Spark Plug Cap
Engine Bracket Bolts and Nuts [A]
Engine Brackets [B]
Cylinder Head Nuts [C]
Cylinder Head [D]
Cylinder Head Gasket
Cylinder Head
•
Cylinder Head Installation
Replace the cylinder head gasket with a new one.
•
Check the head water jacket for a crust of minerals and rust and remove them if necessary.
•
Install the dowel pins [A].
•
Install a new cylinder head gasket with the side marked
UP [B] facing up.
•
Tighten the cylinder head nuts to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern.
Torque - Cylinder Head Nuts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Cylinder Head Cleaning
•
Refer to the Cylinder Head Warp Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Cylinder Head Warp Inspection
•
Refer to the Cylinder Head Warp Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
ENGINE TOP END 5-7
5-8 ENGINE TOP END
Cylinder
Cylinder Removal
•
Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt [A]
•
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling
System chapter).
•
Remove the radiator (see Radiator Removal in the Cooling System chapter).
•
Loosen the water hose clamp screws [A].
•
Remove:
Water Hoses [B]
Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal)
Carburetor (see Carburetor Removal in the Fuel System chapter)
•
Remove:
KIPS Cover Bolts [A]
KIPS Cover [B]
KIPS Cover Gasket
•
Remove the circlip [A].
•
Push [B] the shaft lever, and disconnect the link lever [C] from the operating rod [D].
•
Pull the boot [E] down.
•
•
Open the clamp [A].
Remove the cylinder nuts [B].
•
Tap lightly up with a plastic mallet to separate the cylinder
[C] from the crankcase.
•
Remove the cylinder base gasket.
Cylinder
•
Cylinder Installation
Scrape any carbon out of the exhaust port.
•
Check on a crust of minerals and rust in the cylinder water jacket, and remove them if necessary.
•
Replace the cylinder base gasket with a new one.
•
Apply 2-stroke engine oil to the piston surface, piston ring and cylinder bore.
•
Check to see that the pin [A] in piston ring groove is between the ends of the piston ring, and fit the base of the cylinder over the ring, pressing in on opposite sides of the ring as necessary. Be certain that the ring do not slip out of position.
•
Tighten the cylinder nuts to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern.
Torque - Cylinder Nuts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Replace the circlip [A] and KIPS cover gasket with new ones.
•
Install the boot [B] to the cylinder.
•
Push [C] the shaft lever, and connect the link lever [D] to the operating rod [E].
•
Install:
Circlip
KIPS Cover Gasket
KIPS Cover
•
Tighten:
Torque - KIPS Cover Bolts: 5.2 N·m (0.53 kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Piston Removal
Remove the cylinder (see Cylinder Removal).
•
Stuff a clean cloth into the crankcase opening around the connecting rod so that no parts will fall into the crankcase.
•
Remove one of the piston pin snap rings with needle nose pliers.
•
Remove the piston by pushing the piston pin out the side from which the snap ring was removed. Use a piston pin puller assembly [A], if the pin is tight.
Special Tool - Piston Pin Puller Assembly: 57001-910
•
Remove the piston ring.
○
Carefully spread the ring [A] opening with your thumbs and then push up on the opposite side of the ring to remove it.
ENGINE TOP END 5-9
5-10 ENGINE TOP END
Cylinder
Piston Installation
•
Stuff a clean cloth into the crankcase opening around the connecting rod so that no parts will fall into the crankcase.
•
Scrape off any carbon of the piston, then lightly polish the piston with fine emery cloth.
•
Clean carbon and dirt out of the piston ring groove using a suitable tool.
NOTICE
Carbon particles can be very abrasive to piston ring. Don’t allow such particles to fall onto the cylinder walls.
•
First fit one end of the piston ring against the pin in the ring groove, spread the ring opening with the other hand and then slip the ring into the groove.
•
Install the ring [A] so that the marked [B] side faces upward.
○
The mark on the ring are as follows;
KX85C/D
KX100F
1N
N
•
Install the piston ring so that the pin [A] in the piston ring groove is between the ends of the piston ring.
•
Apply 2-stroke engine oil to the connecting rod needle bearing and the piston pin.
•
Install the piston with its mark [A] facing forward.
•
Install the piston with “IN” mark [B] facing backward
(KX85C/D).
•
When installing a piston pin snap ring, compress it only enough to install it and no more.
NOTICE
Do not reuse piston pin snap rings, as removal weakens and deforms them. They could fall out and score the cylinder wall.
•
Fit a new piston pin snap ring [A] into the side of the piston so that the ring opening [B] does not coincide with the notch [C] in the edge of the piston pin hole.
Cylinder
Cylinder Wear Inspection
•
Refer to the Cylinder Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Piston Diameter Measurement
•
Measure the outside diameter of the piston 17 mm (0.67
in.) [A] up from the bottom of the piston at a right angle to the direction of the piston pin.
If the measurement is under the service limit, replace the piston.
Piston Diameter
Standard:
KX85C/D
KX100F
Service Limit:
KX85C/D
KX100F
48.444
∼
48.459 mm (1.9072
∼
1.9078 in.)
52.435
∼
52.450 mm (2.0644
∼
2.0650 in.)
48.29 mm (1.901 in.)
52.29 mm (2.059 in.)
Piston/Cylinder Clearance Inspection
•
Refer to the Piston/Cylinder Clearance in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Piston Ring/Ring Groove Clearance Inspection
•
Check for uneven groove wear by inspecting the ring seating.
The ring should fit perfectly parallel to the groove surface.
If not, replace the piston and piston ring.
•
With the piston ring in its groove, make several measurements with a thickness gauge [A] to determine piston ring/groove clearance.
Piston Ring/Ring Groove Clearance
Standard:
KX85C/D
KX100F
0.02
∼
0.06 mm (0.0008
∼
0.0024 in.)
0.04
∼
0.08 mm (0.0016
∼
0.0031 in.)
Service Limit:
KX85C/D
KX100F
0.16 mm (0.0063 in.)
0.18 mm (0.0071 in.)
If the piston ring groove clearance is greater than the service limit, measure the ring thickness and groove width as follows to decide whether to replace the ring, the piston or both.
ENGINE TOP END 5-11
5-12 ENGINE TOP END
Cylinder
Piston Ring Groove Width Inspection
•
Measure the groove width at several points around the piston with a vernier caliper.
Piston Ring Groove Width
Standard:
KX85C/D
KX100F
1.01
∼
1.03 mm (0.0398
∼
0.0406 in.)
1.03
∼
1.05 mm (0.0406
∼
0.0413 in.)
Service Limit:
KX85C/D
KX100F
1.11 mm (0.0437 in.)
1.13 mm (0.0445 in.)
If any of the groove widths exceeds the service limit, replace the piston.
Piston Ring Thickness Inspection
•
Measure the thickness at several points around the ring with a micrometer.
Piston Ring Thickness
Standard: 0.97
∼
0.99 mm (0.038
∼
0.039 in.)
Service Limit: 0.90 mm (0.035 in.)
If any of the measurements is less than the service limit, replace the ring.
NOTE
○
When using new ring in a used piston, check for uneven groove wear. The ring should fit perfectly parallel to the groove sides. If not, replace the piston.
Piston Ring End Gap Measurement
•
Place the piston ring [A] inside the cylinder, using the piston to locate the ring squarely in place. Set it close to the bottom of the cylinder, where cylinder wear is low.
•
Measure the gap [B] between the ends of the ring with a thickness gauge.
Piston Ring End Gap
Standard: 0.30
∼
0.50 mm (0.012
∼
0.020 in.)
Service Limit: 0.8 mm (0.03 in.)
If the ring end gap exceeds the service limit, replace the ring.
Cylinder
Piston, Piston Pin, and Connecting Rod Wear
Inspection
•
Visually inspect the snap rings [A] still fitted in place.
If the ring shows weakness or deformation, replace the ring. Also if the pin hole groove shows excessive wear, replace the piston.
•
Measure the diameter of the piston pin [D] with a micrometer.
Piston Pin Diameter
Standard: 13.995
∼
14.000 mm (0.55098
∼
0.55118
in.)
Service Limit: 13.96 mm (0.5496 in.)
If the piston pin diameter is less than the service limit at any point, replace the piston pin.
•
Using a cylinder gauge, measure the diameter of both the piston pin holes [B] in the piston and the inside diameter of the connecting rod small end.
Piston Pin Hole Diameter
Standard: 14.001
∼
14.011 mm (0.55122
∼
0.55161
in.)
Service Limit: 14.08 mm (0.5543 in.)
Connecting Rod Small End Inside Diameter
Standard: 18.002
∼
18.013 mm (0.70874
∼
0.70917
in.)
Service Limit: 18.05 mm (0.7106 in.)
If either piston pin hole diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the piston.
If the inside diameter of the connecting rod small end ex-
• ceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft assembly.
Check the needle bearing [C].
○
The rollers in a needle bearing normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring, inspect the bearing for abrasion, color change, other damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of a needle bearing, replace the bearing and piston pin.
ENGINE TOP END 5-13
5-14 ENGINE TOP END
Exhaust Valve (KIPS)
Exhaust Valve Removal
•
Remove:
Cylinder (see Cylinder Removal)
Exhaust Valve Cover Screws [A]
Exhaust Valve Cover [B]
Exhaust Valve Cover Gasket
•
Remove:
Exhaust Valve Lever Mounting Bolt [A]
Operating Rod [B]
Exhaust Valve Lever [C]
Exhaust Valve Plate Bolts [D]
Exhaust Valve Plate [E]
Exhaust Valves [F]
Exhaust Valve Installation
•
Scrape out any carbon and clean the exhaust valves with a high flash-point solvent.
•
Check the exhaust valves for sings of damage.
If necessary, replace them with new ones.
•
Apply a 2-stroke oil to the exhaust valve.
•
Install the exhaust valves.
○
Install the exhaust valve with chamfer [A] facing the engine left side.
•
Install the exhaust valve plate.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Exhaust Valve Plate Bolts: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 52 in·lb)
•
Apply a high temperature grease to the oil seal lip on the operating rod.
•
Install the operating rod with the exhaust valve lever.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the thread of exhaust valve lever mounting bolt.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Exhaust Valve Lever Mounting Bolt: 3.9 N·m (0.40
kgf·m, 35 in·lb)
•
Turn the operating rod [A] to check that the slide and exhaust valves [B] move smoothly.
•
Replace the exhaust valve cover gasket with the new one.
•
Install the exhaust valve cover.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Exhaust Valve Cover Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
Muffler
Muffler Removal/Installation
•
Remove:
Left Side Cover (see Side Cover Removal/Installation in the Frame chapter)
Bolt [A]
•
Bolt [B] and Washers
•
Remove the muffler [C] from the rubber [D].
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Expansion Chamber Removal
•
Remove:
Muffler (see Muffler Removal/Installation)
Left Shroud (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the
Frame chapter)
Bolt [A]
Shroud Screen [B]
•
Remove the expansion chamber mounting springs [A].
ENGINE TOP END 5-15
•
Remove:
Bolt [A]
Expansion Chamber [B]
Exhaust Gasket
•
Expansion Chamber Installation
Scrape any carbon out of the muffler.
•
Replace the exhaust gasket and exhaust O-rings [A].
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease around the exhaust
O-rings.
5-16 ENGINE TOP END
Muffler
•
Install the expansion chamber mounting springs [A] as shown.
Cylinder Side [B]
Expansion Chamber Side [C]
Silencer Wool Change
•
Refer to the Silencer Wool Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-1
Engine Right Side
Table of Contents
6
6-2 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Exploded View
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-3
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Clutch Cover Bolts
2 Clutch Spring Bolts
3 Clutch Hub Nut
N·m
9.4
9.3
88
Torque kgf·m
1.0
0.95
9.0
ft·lb
83 in·lb
82 in·lb
65
CL: Apply cable lubricant.
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10:1)
R: Replacement Parts
Remarks
R
6-4 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Lever Shaft Assembly Mounting Screw
2 Kick Pedal Bolt
3 Lever Shaft Retaining Bolt
4 Oil Filler Cap
5 Right Engine Cover Bolts
6 Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt
7 Kick Ratchet Guide Screw
8 Primary Gear Nut
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
Lh: Left-hand Threads
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
R: Replacement Parts
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-5
–
9.4
9.4
5.2
49
N·m
6.4
9.4
5.2
Torque kgf·m
0.65
1.0
0.53
–
1.0
1.0
0.53
5.0
ft·lb
57 in·lb
83 in·lb
46 in·lb
–
83 in·lb
83 in·lb
46 in·lb
36
Remarks
L
Hand
-tighten
Lh
6-6 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Specifications
Item
Clutch Lever
Clutch Lever Free Play
Clutch
Friction Plate Thickness
Friction Plate Warp
Steel Plate Warp
Clutch Spring Free Length
Friction Plate/Clutch Housing
Clearance
Standard
8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.)
2.92
∼
3.08 mm (0.115
∼
0.121 in.)
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
35.0 mm (1.38 in.)
0.05
∼
0.55 mm (0.002
∼
0.022 in.)
Service Limit
– – –
2.8 mm (0.11 in.)
0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
34.0 mm (1.34 in.)
0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
Special Tools
Outside Circlip Pliers:
57001-144
Bearing Puller:
57001-158
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Clutch Holder:
57001-1243
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-7
Bearing Puller Adapter:
57001-1526
Gear Holder:
57001-1602
Flywheel & Pulley Holder:
57001-1605
6-8 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch Lever and Cable
Due to friction plate wear and clutch cable stretch over a long period of use, the clutch must be adjusted in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
WARNING
The engine and exhaust system get extremely hot during normal operation and can cause serious burns. Never touch the engine or exhaust pipe during clutch adjustment.
Clutch Lever (Clutch Cable) Free Play Inspection
•
Refer to the Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Clutch Lever (Clutch Cable) Free Play Adjustment
•
Refer to the Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Clutch Lever Holder Installation
•
Install the clutch lever holder so that the mating surface
[A] of the clutch lever holder is aligned with the punch mark [B] of the handlebar.
Clutch Cable Removal
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Right Shroud (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the
Frame chapter)
•
Slide the dust cover [A] out of place.
•
Loosen the locknut [B].
•
Align the slits [C] of the adjuster, locknut and clutch lever.
•
Free the clutch cable upper end from the clutch lever.
Clutch Lever and Cable
•
Take the clutch cable off the cable holder [A].
•
Take the clutch cable lower end [B] off the clutch release lever [C].
NOTICE
Do not remove the clutch release shaft unless it is absolutely necessary. If removed, release shaft oil seal must be replaced with a new one.
•
Remove the clutch cable.
Clutch Cable Installation
•
Run the clutch cable correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Adjust the clutch cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Clutch Cable Inspection and Lubrication
•
During a periodic inspection or when the cable has been removed, inspect and lubricate the cable (see General
Lubrication and Cable Inspection section in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-9
6-10 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
Clutch Cover Removal
•
Drain the transmission oil (see Transmission Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Clutch Cable Lower End [A] (see Clutch Cable Removal)
Clutch Cover Bolts [B]
•
Turn the release lever counterclockwise, and remove the clutch cover [C].
•
Clutch Cover Installation
Replace the clutch cover gasket [A] with a new one.
•
Install the dowel pins [B] and clutch cover.
○
Turn the release lever clockwise so that the push rod fit into the release lever shaft.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Clutch Cover Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
Release Shaft Removal
NOTICE
Do not remove the clutch release lever and shaft assembly unless it is absolutely necessary. If removed, the oil seal replacement may be required.
•
Remove the clutch cover (see Clutch Cover Removal).
•
Pull the release shaft [A] straight out of the clutch cover.
Release Shaft Installation
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lips on the upper ridge of the clutch cover.
•
Apply engine oil to the needle bearings in the hole of the clutch cover.
•
Insert the release shaft straight into the upper hole of the clutch cover.
NOTICE
When inserting the release shaft, be careful not to remove the spring of the oil seal.
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
Clutch Cover Disassembly
•
Remove:
Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal)
Release Shaft (see Release Shaft Removal)
Oil Seal [A]
•
Remove the needle bearings [A].
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-11
•
Clutch Cover Assembly
Replace the needle bearings and oil seal with new ones.
•
Install the needle bearings [A] and oil seal [B] position as shown.
○
Press the needle bearings, until the bottom.
○
Press the oil seal so that the oil seal surface [C] is flush with the surface of the clutch cover.
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
Right Engine Cover Removal
•
Drain:
Transmission Oil (see Transmission Oil Change in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Remove:
Kick Pedal (see Kick Pedal Removal)
Brake Pedal Bolt [A]
Brake Pedal Return Spring [B]
6-12 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Remove:
KIPS Cover Bolts [A]
KIPS Cover [B]
KIPS Cover Gasket
•
Remove the circlip [A].
•
Push [B] the shaft lever, and disconnect the link lever [C] from the operating rod [D].
•
Remove:
Impeller (see Impeller Removal in the Cooling System chapter)
Right Engine Cover Bolts [A]
Right Engine Cover [B]
•
Right Engine Cover Installation
Replace the right engine cover gasket [A] with a new one.
•
Install the dowel pins [B].
•
Wrap the spline [C] of the kick shaft with the vinyl tape to
• prevent damage.
Apply grease to the kick shaft oil seal lip.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the water pump shaft oil seal lip.
•
Install the right engine cover.
•
Tighten:
L = 25 mm (0.98 in.) [A]
L = 30 mm (1.18 in.) [B]
Torque - Right Engine Cover Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Replace the circlip [A] and KIPS cover gasket with new ones.
•
Install the boot [B] to the cylinder.
•
Push [C] the shaft lever, and connect the link lever [D] to the operating rod [E].
•
Install:
Circlip
KIPS Cover Gasket
KIPS Cover
•
Tighten:
Torque - KIPS Cover Bolts: 5.2 N·m (0.53 kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Remove the vinyl tape from the kick shaft.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Right Engine Cover Disassembly
•
Remove the right engine cover (see Right Engine Cover
Removal).
•
Slide the boot [A] out of place.
Remove:
Lever Shaft Retaining Bolt [B]
Washer
Lever Shaft [C]
Advancer Assembly
•
When disassembly the lever shaft as follows.
•
Remove:
Boot [A]
Lever Shaft Assembly Mounting Screw [B]
Washer [C]
Lever Assy [D]
Collar [E]
Spring [F]
Lever Shaft [G]
•
Remove:
Oil Level Inspection Window [A]
Oil Seal [B]
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-13
6-14 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Remove:
Oil Filler Cap [A]
Oil Seals [B]
•
Remove the bearings [A].
•
Right Engine Cover Assembly
Replace the oil seals and bearings with new ones.
•
Press the oil level inspection window [A] to the right cover until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Press the oil seals [B] [C] to the right engine cover so that the surface of the oil seals is flush with the surface of the right engine cover.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
○
Press the oil seal [C] so that its marked side faces to bearing.
•
Press the bearings [D] to the right engine cover until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Apply engine oil to the bearings [D].
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Apply grease to the oil seal [B] lips.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the oil seal [C] lips.
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-15
•
When assembly the lever shaft as follows.
•
Fit the spring lower end [A] to the groove [B] of the lever shaft.
○
Install the spring so that the bend side faces downward.
•
Install the collar [C] so that the projection side faces upward.
•
Insert the projection [D] on the lever assy [E] to between the spring ends.
•
Install the washer [F] so that the chamfer side faces upward.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the thread of lever shaft assembly mounting screw [G].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Lever Shaft Assembly Mounting Screw: 6.4 N·m
(0.65 kgf·m, 57 in·lb)
6-16 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Fit the advancer [A] to the lever shaft [B] as shown.
•
Align [A] the mark [B] on the lever shaft with the mark
[C] on the right engine cover and insert the shaft into the cover.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Lever Shaft Retaining Bolt [D]: 5.2 N·m (0.53
kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Install the advancer in the right engine cover.
Advancer Disassembly
•
Hold the bearing puller [A] in a vise, and set the advancer assembly [B] with the gear upward on the bearing puller.
•
Screw the rod [C] in and pull out the gear on the shaft. Do not drop the assembly parts on the floor.
Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-158
Bearing Puller Adaper: 57001-1526 [D]
•
The advancer assembly consists of the following parts.
Gear [A]
Spring [B]
Collar [C]
Circlip [D]
Ball Bearing [E]
Collar [F]
Holder [G]
Shaft [H]
Ball [I]
Guide [J]
•
Check the advancer assembly parts for damage.
Any damaged parts should be replaced with new ones.
•
When assembling, apply molybdenum disulfide grease between the shaft and inside/outside diameter parts of the holder, ball bearing and collars.
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
Advancer Assembly
•
Press the gear [A] on the shaft so that the gear contacts the step on the shaft.
•
Install the parts in due order and press fit the guide [B] to set the distance [C] of 44.65
∼
44.75 mm (1.7579
∼
1.7618
in.).
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-17
6-18 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch
Clutch Removal
•
Drain the transmission oil (see Transmission Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Magneto Cover (see Magneto Cover Removal in the
Electrical System chapter)
Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal)
•
Holding the flywheel [A] with the flywheel & pulley holder
[B].
Special Tool - Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605
•
Remove:
Clutch Spring Bolts [A]
Clutch Springs
Clutch Pressure Plate [B]
•
Remove:
Push Rod [A]
Washer(s) [B] (If provided)
Friction Plates [C]
Steel Plates [D]
•
Hold the clutch hub [A] with the clutch holder [B].
Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243
•
Remove:
Clutch Hub Nut [C]
Toothed Washer [D]
Clutch Hub
Thrust Washer
Clutch Housing [E]
Clutch
•
Remove:
Needle Bearings [A]
Sleeve [B]
Thrust Washer [C]
•
Clutch Installation
Install the thrust washer.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the inside of the sleeve.
•
Apply engine oil to the needle bearings.
•
Install:
Sleeve
Needle Bearings
Clutch Housing
Thrust Washer [A]
Clutch Hub [B]
•
Hold the clutch hub with the clutch holder [A].
Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243
•
•
Install the toothed washer [B].
Replace the clutch hub nut [C] with a new one.
○
Turn the large chamfering side of the clutch hub nut to outside.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Clutch Hub Nut: 88 N·m (9.0 kgf·m, 65 ft·lb)
•
Install the friction plates and steel plates alternately.
○
Install the friction plate first.
NOTICE
If new dry steel plates and friction plates are installed, apply engine oil to the surfaces of each plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the swollen areas
[A] of the push rod.
•
Install:
Push Rod
Washer(s) [B] (If provided)
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-19
6-20 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Clutch
•
Install the clutch pressure plate and clutch springs.
•
Holding the flywheel [A] with the flywheel & pulley holder
[B].
Special Tool - Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605
•
Tighten:
Torque - Clutch Spring Bolts: 9.3 N·m (0.95 kgf·m, 82 in·lb)
•
Install:
Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Installation)
Magneto Cover (see Magneto Cover Installation in the
Electrical System chapter)
•
Turn the clutch release lever toward the front until it becomes hard to turn, this is the point where the clutch is just starting to release. At this time, check that the included angle [A] between the clutch release lever [B] and the line
[C] at right angle to the right engine cover.
Clutch Release Lever Angle
Standard: Approx. 14°
If it is not, adjust the clutch lever angle by increasing or decreasing the number of washer(s) [A].
NOTE
○
Do not use three or more washers. If the clutch requires an excess washer, disassemble the clutch to find the cause.
Clutch Plates Wear, Damage Inspection
•
Refer to the Clutch Plates Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Clutch Plates Warp Inspection
•
Refer to the Clutch Plates Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Clutch
Clutch Spring Free Length Inspection
•
Measure the free length of the clutch springs [A].
If any clutch spring is shorter than the service limit, it must be replaced.
Clutch Spring Free Length
Standard: 35.0 mm (1.38 in.)
Service Limit: 34.0 mm (1.34 in.)
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-21
Clutch Housing Finger Damage Inspection
•
Visually inspect the clutch housing fingers [A] that come in contact with the friction plate tangs.
If they are damaged or if there are groove cuts in the areas that come in contact with the tangs, replace the housing.
Replace the friction plates if their tangs are damaged as well.
Friction Plate/Clutch Housing Clearance
Inspection
•
Measure the clearance between the tangs [A] on the friction plate and the fingers [B] of the clutch housing.
If this clearance is excessive, the clutch will be noisy.
If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the friction plates.
Friction Plate/Clutch Housing Clearance
Standard: 0.05
∼
0.55 mm (0.002
∼
0.022 in.)
Service Limit: 0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
Clutch Hub Spline Damage Inspection
•
Visually inspect the areas of the clutch hub splines [A] that come in contact with the teeth of the steel plates.
If there are notches worn into the clutch hub splines, replace the clutch hub. Replace the steel plates if their teeth are damaged as well.
6-22 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Primary Gear
Primary Gear Removal
•
Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal)
•
Clutch (see Clutch Removal)
Temporarily install the clutch housing [A].
•
Using the gear holder [B], secure the primary gear [C].
Special Tool - Gear Holder: 57001-1602
•
Remove:
Primary Gear Nut [D]
Washer
Gear Holder
Clutch Housing
Primary Gear
○
Primary gear nut is left-hand threads.
Primary Gear Installation
•
Install the primary gear so that the chamfer side faces outside.
•
Temporally install the clutch housing.
•
Install the spring washer [A] so that the concave side faces inside.
•
Temporally tighten the primary gear nut [B].
○
Primary gear nut is left-hand threads.
•
•
Using the gear holder [A], secure the primary gear [B].
Tighten the primary gear nut [C].
○
Primary gear nut is left-hand threads.
Torque - Primary Gear Nut: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)
Special Tool - Gear Holder: 57001-1602
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Kickstarter
Kick Pedal Removal
•
Remove:
Kick Pedal Bolt [A]
Kick Pedal Assy [B]
Kick Pedal Installation
•
Install the kick pedal assy.
○
Put the pedal end [A] near the “S” mark [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Kick Pedal Bolt: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 83 ft·lb)
•
Kick Pedal Disassembly
Remove the kick pedal assy (see Kick Pedal Removal).
•
Remove:
Plug Screw [A]
Spring [B]
Steel Ball [C]
Detent Screw [D]
Boss [E]
Oil Seal [F]
•
Kick Pedal Assembly
Replace the oil seal [A] and plug screw [B] with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the steel ball, oil seal lip, spring, and the sliding portion of the pedal.
•
Install:
Oil Seal
Boss [C]
Detent Screw [D]
Steel Ball [E]
Spring [F]
•
Plug Screw
•
Tighten the detent screw and plug screw.
After tightening the plug screw, stake it with a punch.
Kick Shaft Removal
•
Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal)
•
Clutch (see Clutch Removal)
Pull the spring end [A] out of the hole.
•
Remove
Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt [B]
Kick Ratchet Guide Screw [C]
Kick Ratchet Guide [D]
Kickstarter Assembly [E]
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-23
6-24 ENGINE RIGHT SIDE
Kickstarter
•
When removing the kickstarter idle gear [A], remove the circlip [B].
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
Kick Shaft Installation
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease [A] to the kick shaft.
•
Insert the kick shaft assembly [A] into the crankcase.
•
Install the kick ratchet guide [B] away as possible from the kick shaft.
Torque - Kick Ratchet Guide Screw [C]: 5.2 N·m (0.53 kgf·m,
46 ft·lb)
Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt [D]: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 83 ft·lb)
•
Insert the spring end into the hole [E].
•
•
When installing the kickstarter idle gear [A] as follows.
Replace the circlip [B] with a new one.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease [C] inside of the kickstarter idle gear.
•
Install the kickstarter idle gear as shown.
•
Install the circlip.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Kickstarter
Kick Shaft Assembly Disassembly/Assembly
•
The kick shaft assembly consists of the following parts.
Circlips [A]
Washer [B]
Spring [C]
Ratchet Gear [D]
Kick Gear [E]
Kick Shaft [F]
Kick Spring [G]
Spring Guide [H]
•
Check the kick shaft assembly parts for damage. Any damaged parts should be replaced with new ones.
NOTE
○
When assembling the ratchet gear onto the kick shaft, align the notch [C] on the ratchet gear [A] with the hole
[D] on the kick shaft [B].
ENGINE RIGHT SIDE 6-25
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease [A] to the kick gear and kick shaft.
•
Replace the circlips that were removed with new ones.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 7-1
Engine Removal/Installation
Table of Contents
7
7-2 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Engine Bracket Mounting Nuts
2 Engine Mounting Nuts
3 Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
R: Replacement Parts
ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 7-3
N·m
29
29
69
Torque kgf·m
3.0
3.0
7.0
ft·lb
21
21
51
Remarks
R
R
R
7-4 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Special Tools
Jack:
57001-1238
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 7-5
Engine Removal/Installation
Engine Removal
•
Place the jack under the frame to support the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
WARNING
When the swingarm pivot shaft is removed the swingarm and rear wheel assembly will become detached and allow the frame to fall to the floor, creating the potential for injury.
Removing the engine requires the swingarm pivot to be removed, so support the bottom of the frame with a jack or other appropriate stand.
•
Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band
[A].
WARNING
Motorcycle may fall over unexpectedly resulting in an accident or injury. Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the engine.
NOTICE
Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the engine, or the motorcycle may fall over. The engine or the motorcycle could be damaged.
•
Drain:
Transmission Oil (see Transmission Oil Change in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Exhaust Pipe (see Exhaust Pipe Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System chapter)
Radiators and Water Hoses (see Radiator Removal in the Cooling System chapter)
Carburetor (see Carburetor Removal in the Fuel System chapter)
Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal in the Engine Bottom End/Transmission chapter)
Engine Sprocket (see Engine Sprocket Removal in the
Final Drive chapter)
Kick Pedal (see Kick Pedal Removal in the Engine Right
Side chapter)
Clutch Cable Lower End (see Clutch Cable Removal in the Engine Right Side chapter)
Brake Pedal Bolt and Return Spring (see Brake Pedal
Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Spark Plug Cap
7-6 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Engine Removal/Installation
•
Remove the bolt [A] to disconnect the ground terminal.
•
Remove the bands [A].
•
Disconnect:
Ignition Coil Primary Lead Connector [B]
Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [C]
CDI Unit Lead Connector [D]
•
Remove:
Engine Bracket Mounting Nuts [A] and Bolts
Engine Mounting Nuts [B] and Bolts
Engine Bracket [C] (Both Sides)
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut [D]
Swingarm Pivot Shaft
•
Remove the engine from the motorcycle to right side.
○
Clear the engine rear portion from the swingarm and then remove the engine.
Engine Installation
•
Replace the following parts with new ones:
Engine Bracket Mounting Nuts
Engine Mounting Nuts
•
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Install the engine.
○
First, insert the front portion of the engine from the right side, and then install the rear portion.
○
Second, fit the rear portion of the engine to the swingarm.
•
Insert the swingarm pivot shaft from the left side.
•
Install the engine brackets, bolts and nuts temporarily.
○
Insert the all bolts from left side.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut [A]: 69 N·m (7.0 kgf·m,
51 ft·lb)
Engine Bracket Mounting Nuts [B]: 29 N·m (3.0
kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
Engine Mounting Nuts [C]: 29 N·m (3.0 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 7-7
Engine Removal/Installation
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Run the cables, hoses, and leads according to the Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Pour:
Transmission Oil (see Transmission Oil Change in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Filling in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Adjust:
Throttle Cable (see Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Clutch Cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Drive Chain (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Idle Speed (see Idle Speed Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
•
Check the brake effectiveness.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-1
Engine Bottom End/Transmission
Table of Contents
8
8-2 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Exploded View
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-3
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Drive Shaft Bearing Retainer Bolts
2 Shift Drum Bearing Retainer Bolts
3 Transmission Oil Drain Bolt
4 Crankshaft Cover Bolts
5 Crankcase Bolts
6 Output Shaft Bearing Retainer Screws
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
LG: Apply liquid gasket.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil
N·m
9.4
9.4
20
9.8
9.4
5.2
Torque kgf·m
1.0
1.0
2.0
1.0
1.0
0.53
ft·lb
83 in·lb
83 in·lb
15
87 in·lb
83 in·lb
46 in·lb
Remarks
L
S
L
8-4 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Exploded View
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-5
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Shift Drum Cam Bolt
2 Gear Positioning Lever Bolt
3 Shift Shaft Return Spring Pin
4 Shift Pedal Bolt
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
N·m
23
9.4
22
9.8
Torque kgf·m
2.3
1.0
2.2
1.0
ft·lb
17
78 in·lb
16
87 in·lb
Remarks
L
8-6 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Specifications
Item
Transmission Oil
Type
Standard
Viscosity
Amount
Oil Level
Crankshaft, Connecting Rod
Connecting Rod Big End:
Radial Clearance
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO
MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE10W-40
0.7 L (0.2 US qt)
In middle of oil level inspection window
Side Clearance
Crankshaft Runout
Connecting Rod Bend
0.029
∼
0.041 mm
(0.0011
∼
0.0016 in.)
0.40
∼
0.50 mm (0.016
∼
0.020 in.)
TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
– – –
Connecting Rod Twist – – –
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.09 mm (0.004 in.)
0.7 mm (0.03 in.)
TIR 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
TIR 0.2/100 mm
(0.008/3.94 in.)
TIR 0.2/100 mm
(0.008/3.94 in.)
Transmission
Shift Fork Ear Thickness
Shift Drum Groove Width
3.9
∼
4.0 mm (0.15
∼
0.16 in.)
Gear Groove Width 4.05
∼
4.15 mm (0.159
∼
0.163 in.)
Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter 5.9
∼
6.0 mm (0.23
∼
0.24 in.)
6.05
∼
6.20 mm (0.238
∼
0.244 in.)
3.8 mm (0.15 in.)
4.3 mm (0.17 in.)
5.8 mm (0.23 in.)
6.3 mm (0.25 in.)
Special Tools and Sealant
Bearing Puller:
57001-135
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-7
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Bearing Puller Adapter:
57001-136
Outside Circlip Pliers:
57001-144
Crankcase Splitting Tool Assembly:
57001-1098
Crankshaft Jig:
57001-1174
Liquid Gasket, TB1215:
92104-1065
8-8 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Transmission Oil
In order for the transmission and clutch to function properly, always maintain the transmission oil at the proper level and change the oil periodically.
WARNING
Vehicle operation with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated transmission oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in engine or transmission seizure, accident, and injury. Check the oil level before each use and change the oil and filter according to the periodic maintenance chart.
Oil Level Inspection
•
Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground.
•
If the motorcycle has just been used, wait several minutes until the oil settles.
•
Check that the oil level comes up in the middle [A] of the oil level inspection window [B] on the right engine cover.
If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil through the oil filler opening [C] using a syringe or some other suitable device.
If the oil level is too low, add the correct amount of oil.
Use the same type and make of oil that is already in the engine.
NOTE
○
If the transmission oil type and make are unknown, use any brand of the specified oil to top up the level in preference to running the engine with the oil level low. Then at your earliest convenience, change the oil completely.
Transmission Oil Change
•
Refer to the Transmission Oil Change in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-9
Crankcase
Crankcase Disassembly
•
Remove the engine from the frame (see Engine Removal in the Engine Removal/Installation chapter).
•
Set the engine on clean surface while parts are being removed.
•
Remove:
Piston (see Piston Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Engine Right Side chapter)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Engine Right Side chapter)
Primary Gear (see Primary Gear Removal in the Engine
Right Side chapter)
Kick Shaft (see Kick Shaft Removal in the Engine Right
Side chapter)
External Shift Mechanism (see External Shift Mechanism Removal)
Flywheel (see Flywheel Removal in the Electrical System chapter)
•
Remove the output shaft collar [A] and O-rings [B].
•
Remove:
Crankcase Bolts [A]
Clamp [B]
•
Position the connecting rod in BDC.
•
Install the crankshaft jig [A] between the crankshaft flywheels.
Special Tool - Crankshaft Jig: 57001-1174
8-10 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Crankcase
•
Attach the crankcase splitting tool [A] to the left crankcase.
○
Use the bearing puller adapter [B] of the crankcase splitting tool attached.
Special Tool - Crankcase Splitting Tool Assembly: 57001
-1098
•
Bearing Puller Adapter: 57001-136
Tighten the center bolt to split the crankcase halves.
○
The front and rear portion of the crankcase must be pulled apart evenly.
•
Remove:
Shift Rods [A]
Shift Forks [B]
Shift Drum [C] (see Transmission Shaft Removal)
Transmission Shafts [D] (see Transmission Shaft Removal)
Crankshaft [E] (see Crankshaft Removal)
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings and the oil seals unless it is necessary. Removal may damage them.
•
Remove the breather hose assy [A] from the left crankcase half.
Crankcase Assembly
NOTICE
Right and left crankcase halves are machined at the factory in the assembled state, so if replaced, they must be replaced as a set.
•
Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves and clean them off with a high flash
-point solvent.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the engine parts in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark or flame anywhere near the working areas.
Do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean parts.
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-11
Crankcase
•
Support the crankcase bearing boss with a suitable retainer [A].
•
Install the new bearing [B] with a press and the bearing driver set [C].
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
NOTICE
Support the crankcase bearing boss when the bearing is pressed, or the crankcase could be damaged.
Left Crankcase
•
Press the new oil seal [A] so that the flat surface [B] faces outside of the engine, and its surface is flush with the end of the hole.
•
Press the new crankshaft bearing [C] until it bottoms out.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Press in the new drive shaft bearing [A] until it is bottomed.
•
Press in the new output shaft bearing [B] so that the stepped side [C] faces inside of the engine until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the output shaft bearing retainers [A].
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the output shaft bearing retainer screws [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Output Shaft Bearing Retainer Screws: 5.2 N·m
(0.53 kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Press the new output shaft oil seal [A] and shift shaft oil seal [B] so that the flat surface faces outside of the engine, and its surface is flush with the crankcase surface.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
8-12 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Crankcase
Right Crankcase
•
Press the new crankshaft oil seal [A] so that the flat surface [B] faces outside of the engine, and until it is bottomed.
•
Press the new crankshaft bearing [C] until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Press the new output shaft bearing [A] and new drive shaft bearing [B] until they are bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the drive shaft bearing retainer bolts [A].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Drive Shaft Bearing Retainer Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
•
Install the new shift drum bearing [A] so that the sealed side [B] faces outside of the engine.
•
Install the shift drum bearing retainer [C] and tighten the shift drum bearing retainer bolts [D].
Torque - Shift Drum Bearing Retainer Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 83 in·lb)
•
Press the bearings [A] until they are bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-13
Crankcase
•
Install:
Crankshaft (see Crankshaft Installation)
Transmission Shafts (see Transmission Shaft Installation)
Shift Drum (see Transmission Shaft Installation)
•
Shift Fork and Shift Rod
Position the connecting rod in BDC.
•
Install the crankshaft jig [A] between the crankshaft flywheels.
Special Tool - Crankshaft Jig: 57001-1174
•
Check to see that the dowel pins [B] are in place in the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves.
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the liquid gasket coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply liquid gasket to the mating surface [A] of the left crankcase half.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1215: 92104-1065
NOTE
○
Make the application finish within 60 minutes when the liquid gasket to the mating surface of the left crankcase half is applied.
○
Moreover fit the case and tighten the case bolts just after finishing the application of the liquid gasket.
•
Using a suitable tool on the left crankcase to press around the hole for the crankshaft, fit the crankcase halves together with a press on the tool.
[A] Press
[B] Connecting Rod
[C] Crankshaft Jig
NOTE
○
Constantly check the alignment of the two crankcase halves, the position of the transmission shafts, and shift drum. The front and rear of the crankcase must be pushed together evenly.
•
Remove the crankshaft jig from the flywheel.
•
Tighten the crankcase bolts, starting with the around of the crankshaft, then outward.
○
Tighten the [7] bolt together with the clamp.
Torque - Crankcase Bolts: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
NOTE
○
After tightening the crankcase bolts, wipe up the liquid gasket seeping out around the mating surface.
•
Make sure that the crankshaft, drive shaft, and output shaft, rotate smoothly (in the neutral position).
If the crankshaft will not turn, probably the crankshaft is not centered; tap the mount portion of the engine with a plastic hammer to reposition it. If it does not free up, split the crankcase again and find the cause.
8-14 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Crankcase
•
Install the gear positioning lever and shift drum cam (see
External Shift Mechanism Installation).
•
Check to see that gears shift smoothly from 1st to 6th gear, and 6th to 1st while spinning the output shaft.
•
Set the shift drum in the neutral position.
•
Replace the O-rings [A] on the output shaft with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the O-rings.
•
Install the O-rings on the output shaft while expanding the
•
O-rings.
•
Insert the collar [B] with the groove [C] faces inside.
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-15
Crankshaft
Crankshaft Removal
•
Disassemble the crankcase (see Crankcase Disassembly).
•
Remove the transmission shafts and shift drum (see
Transmission Shaft Removal).
•
Using a press, remove the crankshaft [A] from the right crankcase.
If the bearing stay on the crankshaft when splitting the crankcase, or removing the crankshaft from the right crankcase, remove the bearings from the crankshaft with a bearing puller [A].
Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-135
Bearing Puller Adapter [B]: 57001-136
•
Crankshaft Installation
•
Install the crankshaft oil seal and bearing (see Crankcase assembly).
•
Position the connecting rod in BDC.
Insert the crankshaft jig [A] between the crankshaft flywheels to protect flywheel alignment, and press the crankshaft into the right crankcase.
○
When pressing, position the jig in the crankcase opening so the jig does not hit the crankcase.
Special Tool - Crankshaft Jig: 57001-1174
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the connecting rod big end bearing.
Crankshaft Disassembly
Since the assembly of the crankshaft demands exacting tolerances, the disassembly and reassembly of the crankshaft can only be done by a shop having the necessary tools and equipment.
If it should be necessary to disassemble the crankshaft, use a press to remove the crankpin.
Crankshaft Assembly
Since the assembly of the crankshaft demands exacting tolerances, the disassembly and reassembly of the crankshaft can only be done by a shop having the necessary tools and equipment.
•
Check that the connecting rod radial clearance is within specification (see Connecting Rod Big End Radial Clearance Inspection).
•
Press the crank halves onto the crankpin until the connecting rod side clearance is within specification (see
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance Inspection).
•
Adjust crankshaft runout until it is within specification (see
Crankshaft Runout Inspection).
8-16 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Crankshaft
Crankshaft Inspection
Connecting Rod Big End Radial Clearance Inspection
•
Set the crankshaft on V blocks, and place a dial gauge [A] against the connecting rod big end.
•
Push [B] the connecting rod first towards the gauge and then in the opposite direction. The difference between two gauge readings is the radial clearance.
Connecting Rod Big End Radial Clearance
Standard: 0.029
∼
0.041 mm (0.0011
∼
0.0016 in.)
Service Limit: 0.09 mm (0.004 in.)
If the radial clearance exceeds the service limit, crankshaft should be either replaced or disassembled and crankpin, needle bearing, and connecting rod big end should be examined for wear.
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance Inspection
•
Refer to the Crankshaft Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Crankshaft Runout Inspection
•
Set the crankshaft in a flywheel alignment jig or on V blocks, and place a dial gauge and turn the crankshaft slowly. The maximum difference in gauge reading is the crankshaft runout.
7.5 mm (0.30 in.) [A]
Crankshaft Runout
Standard: TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
If the runout at either point exceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft assembly with a new one or align the crankshaft so that the runout falls within the service limit.
•
First correct the horizontal misalignment by striking the projecting crank half [A] with a plastic, soft lead, or brass hammer.
•
Recheck the runout with a dial gauge and repeat the process until the runout falls within the service limit.
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-17
Crankshaft
•
Next, correct the vertical misalignment by either driving a wedge [A] in between the crank halves or by squeezing them in a vise, depending on the nature of the misalignment.
NOTICE
Do not hammer the crank half at the point [B].
If flywheel misalignment cannot be corrected by the above method, replace the crankpin or the crankshaft itself.
Connecting Rod Big End Seizure Inspection
In case of serious seizure with damaged flywheels, the crankshaft must be replaced.
In case of less serious damage, disassemble the crankshaft and replace the crankpin, needle bearing, and connecting rod.
•
Connecting Rod Bend Inspection
Remove the connecting rod.
•
Select an arbor [A] of the same diameter as the connecting rod big end, and insert the arbor through the connecting rod big end.
•
Select an arbor [B] of the same diameter as the piston pin and more than 105 mm (4.13 in.) long, and insert the
• arbor through the connecting rod small end.
On a surface plate, set the big-end arbor on a V block [C].
•
With the connecting rod held vertically, use a height gauge to measure the difference in the height of the arbor above the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length to determine the amount of connecting rod bend.
If connecting rod bend exceeds the service limit, the connecting rod must be replaced.
Connecting Rod Bend
Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)
8-18 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Crankshaft
Connecting Rod Twist Inspection
•
With the big-end arbor [A] still on the V block [B], hold the connecting rod horizontally and measure the amount that the arbor [C] varies from being parallel with the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length of the arbor to determine the amount of connecting rod twist.
If connecting rod twist exceeds the service limit, the connecting rod must be replaced.
Connecting Rod Twist
Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-19
Transmission
Transmission Shaft Removal
•
Disassemble the crankcase (see Crankcase Disassembly).
•
Remove:
Shift Rods [A]
Shift Forks [B]
Shift Drum [C]
•
Remove the drive shaft [D] and output shaft [E] together.
Transmission Shaft Installation
•
Apply engine oil to the following parts:
Transmission Shafts
Transmission Gears
Shift Drum
Shift Forks
•
Install the drive shaft [A] and output shaft [B] in the right crankcase with their gears meshed.
8-20 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Transmission
•
Install the shift drum [A].
•
Fit the output shaft shift forks [B] into the proper gear grooves.
•
Insert the shift rod [C] temporary.
•
Fit the shift fork guide pin into the proper shift drum grooves.
•
Install the shift rod securely.
•
Fit the drive shaft shift fork [D] into the proper position.
•
•
Install the shift rod [E] securely.
•
Check that each shaft moves smoothly.
Assembly the crankcase (see Crankcase Assembly).
Transmission Shaft Disassembly
•
Remove the transmission shafts (see Transmission Shaft
Removal).
•
Remove the circlips and disassemble the transmission shafts completely.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
NOTE
○
Do not reuse the removed circlips.
Transmission Shaft Assembly
•
Apply engine oil liberally to the transmission shaft, gears
• and bearings.
Replace any circlips that were removed with new ones.
○
Always install the circlips [A] so that the opening [B] is aligned with a spline groove [C], and install toothed washers. To install a circlip without damage, first fit the circlip onto the shaft expanding it just enough to install it, and then use a suitable gear to push the circlip into place.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-21
Transmission
•
The drive shaft gears can be identified by size; the smallest diameter gear is 1st gear, and the largest is 6th. Be sure that all parts are put back in the correct sequence, facing the proper direction, and that all circlips and washer are properly in place.
•
The output shaft gears can be identified by size; the largest diameter gear is 1st gear, and the smallest is
6th. Be sure that all parts are put back in the correct sequence, facing the proper direction, and that the circlip is properly in place.
1. 2nd Gear (16T)
2. 5th Gear (22T)
3. Spacer
4. Circlip (Small)
5. 3rd Gear (18T)
6. 4th Gear (20T)
9. Output Shaft
10. 2nd Gear (30T)
11. Circlip (Large)
12. 5th Gear (24T)
13. 3rd Gear (27T)
14. 4th Gear (25T)
7. 6th Gear (23T) 15. 6th Gear (22T)
8. Drive Shaft (1st Gear, 13T) 16. 1st Gear (33T)
•
Check that each gear spins or slides freely on the transmission shaft without binding after assembly.
Shift Fork Bending Inspection
•
Visually inspect the shift forks, and replace any fork that is bent. A bent fork could cause difficulty in shifting, or allow the transmission to jump out of gear when under power.
90° [A]
8-22 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Transmission
Shift Fork/Gear Groove Wear Inspection
•
Measure the thickness [A] of the shift fork ears, and measure the width [B] of the gear grooves (with which the fork engages).
Shift Fork Ear Thickness
Standard: 3.9
∼
4.0 mm (0.15
∼
0.16 in.)
Service Limit: 3.8 mm (0.15 in.)
Gear Groove Width
Standard: 4.05
∼
4.15 mm (0.159
∼
0.163 in.)
Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.17 in.)
If the thickness of a shift fork ear is less than the service limit, the shift fork must be replaced.
If the gear groove is worn exceeding the service limit, the gear must be replaced.
Shift Fork Guide Pin/Shift Drum Groove Wear
Inspection
•
Measure the diameter [A] of each shift fork guide pin, and measure the width [B] of each shift drum groove.
Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter
Standard: 5.9
∼
6.0 mm (0.23
∼
0.24 in.)
Service Limit: 5.8 mm (0.23 in.)
Shift Drum Groove Width
Standard: 6.05
∼
6.20 mm (0.238
∼
0.244 in.)
Service Limit: 6.3 mm (0.25 in.)
If the guide pin on any shift fork is less than the service limit, the fork must be replaced.
If any shift drum groove is worn exceeding the service limit, the drum must be replaced.
Gear Damage Inspection
•
Visually inspect the gear dogs [A] and gear dog holes [B].
Replace any damaged gears or gears with excessively worn dogs or dog holes.
•
Visually inspect the gear teeth [C] on the transmission gears.
Replace lightly damaged gear teeth with an oilstone. The gear must be replaced if the teeth are badly damaged.
When gear is repaired or replaced, the driving gear should also be inspected and repaired or replaced if necessary.
External Shift Mechanism
Shift Pedal Removal
•
Remove:
Shift Pedal Bolt [A]
Shift Pedal [B]
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-23
Shift Pedal Installation
•
Install the shift pedal so that the punch mark [A] on the pedal aligns with the punch mark [B] on the shift shaft.
•
Tighten the shift pedal bolt [C].
Torque - Shift Pedal Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
External Shift Mechanism Removal
•
Drain the transmission oil (see Transmission Oil Change
In the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Engine Right Side chapter)
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Engine Right Side Chapter)
Shift Shaft Assembly [A]
Gear Positioning Lever Spring [B]
Gear Positioning Lever Bolt [C]
Gear Positioning Lever [D]
Collar
Shift Drum Cam Bolt [E]
Shift Drum Cam [F]
Pin
External Shift Mechanism Installation
•
Install:
Pin [A]
Shift Drum Cam [B]
○
Fit the hole [C]on the pin.
•
Torque:
Torque - Shift Drum Cam Bolt: 23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
8-24 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
External Shift Mechanism
•
Install the gear positioning lever [A] as shown.
Collar [B]
Gear Positioning Lever Bolt [C]
Spring [D]
•
Tighten:
Torque - Gear Positioning Lever Bolt: 9.4 N·m (1.0 kgf·m,
83 in·lb)
•
Insert the shift shaft assembly [A].
○
Take care not to damage the oil seal when inserting the shift shaft assembly.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
External Shift Mechanism Inspection
•
Check the shift shaft [A] for bending or damage to the splines.
If the shaft is bent, straighten or replace it. If the splines are damaged, replace the external shift mechanism.
•
Check the return spring [B] and arm spring [C] for cracks or distortion.
If the springs are damaged in any way, replace them.
•
Check the shift mechanism arm [D] for distortion.
If the shift mechanism arm is damaged in any way, replace the shift mechanism.
•
Check that the return spring pin is not loose.
If it is loose, unscrew it, apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Torque - Shift Shaft Return Spring Pin: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m,
16 ft·lb)
•
Check the gear positioning lever, and the spring for cracks or distortion.
If the lever or spring is damaged in any way, replace them.
ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION 8-25
Bearings/Oil Seals
Bearing Replacement
NOTICE
Do not remove the ball or needle bearings unless it is necessary. Removal may damage them.
•
Using a press or puller, remove the ball bearing and/or needle bearings.
NOTE
○
In the absence of the above mentioned tools, satisfactory results may be obtained by heating the case to approximately 93°C (200°F) max, and tapping the bearing in or out.
NOTICE
Do not heat the case with a torch. This will warp the case. Soak the case in oil and heat the oil.
•
Using a press and the bearing driver set [A], install the new ball bearing until it stops at the bottom of its housing.
○
The new needle bearings must be pressed into the crankcase so that the end is flush with the end of the hole.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
Bearing Wear Inspection
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Removal may damage them.
•
Inspect the ball bearings.
○
Since the ball bearings are made to extremely close tolerances, the wear must be judged by feel rather than measurement.
○
Clean each bearing in a high flash-point solvent, dry it (do not spin the bearing while it is dry), and oil it with engine oil.
○
Spin [A] the bearing by hand to check its condition.
If the bearing is noisy, does not spin smoothly, or has any rough spots, replace it.
8-26 ENGINE BOTTOM END/TRANSMISSION
Bearings/Oil Seals
•
Inspect the needle bearings.
○
The rollers in a needle bearing normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring, inspect the bearing for abrasion, color change, or other damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of a needle bearing, replace it.
Oil Seal Inspection
•
Inspect the oil seals.
Replace the oil seal if the lips are deformed, discolored
(indicating that the rubber has deteriorated), hardened or otherwise damaged.
WHEELS/TIRES 9-1
Wheels/Tires
Table of Contents
9
9-2 WHEELS/TIRES
Exploded View
WHEELS/TIRES 9-3
Exploded View
No.
1 Spoke Nipples
2 Front Axle Nut
3 Rear Axle Nut
Fastener
N·m
4.0
78
78
HG: Apply high-temperature grease.
R: Replacement Parts
WL: Apply soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.
Torque kgf·m
0.41
8.0
8.0
ft·lb
35 in·lb
58
58
Remarks
R
R
9-4 WHEELS/TIRES
Specifications
Item
Wheels (Rims)
Rim Runout (with tire installed):
Axial
Radial
Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.):
Front
Rear
Rim Size:
Front
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Rear:
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Tires
Air Pressure (when cold):
Front
Rear
Standard Tires:
Front:
Size:
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Make
Type
Rear:
Size:
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Make
Type
17 × 1.40
19 × 1.40
14 × 1.60
16 × 1.85
Standard
100
∼
125 kPa (1.02
∼
1.27
kgf/cm², 14.5
∼
18.1 psi)
100
∼
125 kPa (1.02
∼
1.27
kgf/cm², 14.5
∼
18.1 psi)
70/100-17 40M
70/100-19 42M
DUNLOP
MX51F
90/100-14 49M
90/100-16 52M
DUNLOP
MX51
Service Limit
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less
TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
Special Tools
Inside Circlip Pliers:
57001-143
Rim Protector:
57001-1063
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Jack:
57001-1238
WHEELS/TIRES 9-5
Bearing Remover Shaft, 9:
57001-1265
Bearing Remover Head, 10 × 12:
57001-1266
Bearing Remover Head, 15 × 17:
57001-1267
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
9-6 WHEELS/TIRES
Wheels (Rims)
Front Wheel Removal
•
Remove:
Cotter Pin [A]
Front Axle Nut [B]
•
Raise the front wheel off the ground with jack.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Pull out the axle and remove the wheel.
•
Remove the collars [A] on both sides.
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not touch the ground.
•
Insert a wood wedge between the brake pads.
○
This prevents them from being moved out of their proper position, should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
•
Front Wheel Installation
Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips [A].
•
Install the collars [B] to the hub on both sides.
•
Install the front wheel.
•
Replace the front axle nut [A] with a new one.
•
Insert the axle [B] from left side.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Axle Nut: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Wheels (Rims)
•
•
Replace the cotter pin [A] with a new one.
•
Insert a new cotter pin.
Bend the cotter pin over the axle.
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Tighten the axle nut to the proper torque and install a new cotter pin.
•
Remove the jack.
•
Check the front brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
Rear Wheel Removal
•
Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Squeeze the front brake lever, and hold it with a band [A] to prevent the motorcycle from running forward.
WARNING
Motorcycle may fall over unexpectedly resulting in an accident or injury. Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the rear wheel.
NOTICE
Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the rear wheel, or the motorcycle may fall over. The rear wheel or the motorcycle could be damaged.
•
Remove:
Caliper Guard Mounting Bolts [A]
Caliper Guard [B]
Cotter Pin [C]
Rear Axle Nut [D] and Washer
Rear Caliper with the Hose installed (see Caliper Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Pull out the axle [E], and remove the chain adjuster [F] on
• both sides.
•
Disengage the drive chain from the rear sprocket.
Remove the rear wheel.
WHEELS/TIRES 9-7
9-8 WHEELS/TIRES
Wheels (Rims)
•
Remove the collars [A] on both sides.
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not touch the ground.
•
Insert a wood wedge between the brake pads.
○
This prevents them from being moved out of their proper position, should the brake pedal be squeezed accidentally.
Rear Wheel Installation
•
Slide the groove of the caliper holder [A] through the stop
[B] of the swingarm [C], and install the rear caliper [D] to the holder.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,
18 ft·lb)
•
Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips [A].
•
Install the collars [B] to the hub on both sides.
•
Install the rear wheel.
•
Engage the drive chain with the rear sprocket.
•
Install the chain adjusters [A] on the swingarm.
•
Replace the rear axle nut with a new one.
•
Insert the axle from left side, and tighten the rear axle nut.
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Wheels (Rims)
•
•
Replace the cotter pin [A] with a new one.
•
Insert a new cotter pin.
Bend the cotter pin over the axle.
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Tighten the axle nut to the proper torque and install a new cotter pin.
•
Adjust the drive chain slack (see Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Check the rear brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until the pads are against the disc.
Wheels Inspection
•
Refer to the Wheel Bearing Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Spoke Tightness Inspection
•
Refer to the Spoke Tightness Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Rim Runout Inspection
•
Refer to the Rim Runout Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Rim Installation Position
•
When installing the rim, set the rim following position.
○
Install the front rim so that the marked side faces left.
○
The distance [A] from the brake disc seating surface [B] of the front hub [C] to left end of the front rim [D] should be as follows.
[E] View from Rear
Distance: 24 ±0.5 mm (0.94 ±0.02 in.)
WHEELS/TIRES 9-9
9-10 WHEELS/TIRES
Wheels (Rims)
○
Install the rear rim so that the marked side faces left.
○
The distance [A] from the brake disc seating surface [B] of the rear hub [C] to right end of the rear rim [D] should be as follows.
[E] View from Rear
Distance: 30.25 ±0.5 mm (1.191 ±0.02 in.)
•
Check the rim runout (see Rim Runout Inspection in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Axle Inspection
•
Visually inspect the front and rear axle for damages.
If the axle is damaged or bent, replace it.
•
Place the axle on V blocks that are 100 mm (3.94 in.)
[A] apart, and set a dial gauge [B] on the axle at a point
• halfway between the blocks.
Turn [C] the axle to measure the runout.
○
The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.
Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)
Standard:
Front
Rear
TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less
TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the axle.
Tires
Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment
•
Refer to the Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Tire Removal
•
Remove the wheel (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal).
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel directly on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
•
To maintain wheel balance, mark [A] the air valve position on the tire with chalk so that the tire can be reinstalled in the same position.
Align [B]
•
Remove the air valve cap [C].
•
Take out the valve core [A] to let out the air.
•
Remove the air valve nut.
WHEELS/TIRES 9-11
•
Loosen the bead protector nut [A] on the rear wheel.
•
Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant. This helps the tire beads slip off the rim flanges.
NOTICE
Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distillates because they will deteriorate the tire.
•
Break the beads away from both sides of the rim with a commercially available bead breaker.
9-12 WHEELS/TIRES
Tires
•
Lubricate a commercially available tire irons [A] and rim protectors [B] with soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.
Special Tool - Rim Protector: 57001-1063
•
Step on the side of the tire opposite air valve, and pry the tire off the rim with the tire irons protecting the rim with rim protectors.
NOTICE
Take care not to insert the tire irons so deeply that the tube gets damaged.
•
Remove the tube and bead protector when one side of the tire is pried off.
•
Pry the other side of the tire off the rim.
Tire Installation
NOTE
○
The tires should be installed so that the ID serial NO.
[A] faces to left side.
•
Inspect the rim and tire before installing the tire, and replace them if necessary.
•
Install the tube band onto the rim.
•
Apply a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant to both the tire bead and rim flange.
•
Position the tire on the rim so that the air valve [A] is at the tire balance mark [B] (the chalk mark made during removal).
NOTE
○
The new tire is no marked.
•
Insert the valve stem into the rim, and screw the nut on loosely.
•
Fit the rim protectors and use a commercially available tire irons to install the tire bead.
Special Tool - Rim Protector: 57001-1063
NOTICE
To prevent rim damage, be sure to place the rim protectors at any place the tire irons are applied.
•
Install the tire on the rim from the opposite side of the air valve.
○
Fit the rim protectors and insert the tire irons so deeply that the tube is not damaged.
•
•
Install the bead protector onto the rear rim.
Similarly, slip the tire bead over the rim on the other side.
•
Check that the tube is not pinched between the tire and rim.
Tires
•
Tighten the bead protector nut [A] (rear wheel only), air valve nut [B] and air valve cap [C].
•
Adjust the tire air pressure to the specified pressure (see
Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
WHEELS/TIRES 9-13
9-14 WHEELS/TIRES
Hub Bearing
Front Hub Bearing Removal
•
Remove:
Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal)
Grease Seals [A]
Circlip [B]
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearings [A].
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft, 9 [B]: 57001-1265
Bearing Remover Head, 10 × 12 [C]:
57001-1266
•
Remove the collar [D].
Rear Hub Bearing Removal
•
Remove:
Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal)
Grease Seals [A]
Circlip [B]
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearings [A].
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft, 9 [B]: 57001-1265
Bearing Remover Head, 15 × 17 [C]:
57001-1267
•
Remove the collar [D].
Hub Bearing Installation
•
Before installing the hub bearings, blow any dirt or foreign particles out of the hub with compressed air to prevent contamination of the bearings.
•
Replace the bearings with new ones.
NOTE
○
Install the bearings so that the marked side or sealed side faces out.
Hub Bearing
•
Install the bearings [A] by using the bearing driver set [B].
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
WHEELS/TIRES 9-15
Hub Bearing Inspection
Since the hub bearings are made to extremely close tolerances, the clearance cannot normally be measured.
NOTE
○
Do not remove any bearings for inspection. If any bearings are removed, they will need to be replaced with new ones.
•
Turn each bearing in the hub back and forth [A] while checking for plays, roughness, or binding.
If bearing play roughness, or binding is found, replace the bearing.
•
Examine the bearing seal [B] for tears or leakage.
If the seal is torn or is leaking, replace the bearing.
Hub Bearing Lubrication
NOTE
○
Since the hub bearings are packed with grease and sealed, lubrication is not required.
FINAL DRIVE 10-1
Final Drive
Table of Contents
10
10-2 FINAL DRIVE
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Rear Sprocket Nuts
HO: Apply heavy oil.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
N·m
34
Torque kgf·m
3.5
FINAL DRIVE 10-3
ft·lb
25
Remarks
R, S
10-4 FINAL DRIVE
Specifications
Item
Drive Chain
Drive Chain Slack
Drive Chain 20-link Length
Standard Chain:
Make
Type
Link:
KX85C
KX85D/KX100F
Sprockets
Rear Sprocket Warp
Standard
54
∼
64 mm (2.1
∼
2.5 in.)
254.0
∼
254.6 mm (10.00
∼
10.02 in.)
DAIDO
DID 420DS2
120 links
124 links
TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less
Service Limit
– – –
259 mm (10.2 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
TIR 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
Special Tool
Outside Circlip Pliers:
57001-144
FINAL DRIVE 10-5
10-6 FINAL DRIVE
Drive Chain
Drive Chain Slack Inspection
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Drive Chain Slack Adjustment
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Wheel Alignment Inspection
•
Check that the notch [A] of the chain adjuster [B] aligns with the same swingarm mark [C] as the other side one.
WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition.
Be sure the wheel is properly aligned.
Wheel Alignment Adjustment
•
This procedure is the same as Drive Chain Slack Adjustment (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
Drive Chain Wear Inspection
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Drive Chain Lubrication
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Drive Chain Removal
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal in the Electrical System chapter).
•
Remove the clip [A] from the master link [B] with pliers.
•
Remove:
Link Plate [A]
Master Link [B]
Drive Chain [C]
Drive Chain
Drive Chain Installation
•
Fit the drive chain onto the engine and rear sprockets.
○
Place the drive chain [A] ends on the rear sprocket [B].
•
Install the master link [C] from the wheel side.
•
Install the link plate [A] so that the mark [B] faces out.
•
Install the clip [C] so that the closed end [D] of the “U” pointed in the direction of chain rotation [E].
•
Adjust the drive chain slack (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Installation in the Electrical System chapter).
FINAL DRIVE 10-7
10-8 FINAL DRIVE
Sprockets
Engine Sprocket Removal
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal in the Electrical system chapter).
•
Remove the circlip [A] from the output shaft.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Remove the engine sprocket [B] from the drive chain [C].
Engine Sprocket Installation
•
Engage the drive chain [A] to the engine sprocket [B] and install the engine sprocket on the output shaft [C].
○
Install the engine sprocket so that the groove of the engine sprocket faces outward.
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
•
Install the new circlip on the groove of the output shaft.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Install the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Installation in the Electrical System chapter).
•
Rear Sprocket Removal
Loosen the rear sprocket nuts [A].
•
Remove the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter).
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
•
Remove:
Rear Sprocket Nuts [A] and Washers
Rear Sprocket [B]
Sprockets
•
Rear Sprocket Installation
Replace the rear sprocket nuts with new ones.
•
Install the rear sprocket [A] so that the marked side [B] faces out.
•
Install the rear sprocket nuts and washers.
•
Install the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Installation in the
Wheels/Tires chapter).
•
Tighten the one of rear sprocket nuts by specified torque.
And then do also the right next nut, and repeat that until tighten the all other nuts. Finally retighten the first tighten nut by specified torque.
Torque - Rear Sprocket Nuts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
Sprocket Wear Inspection
•
Refer to the Sprocket Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout) Inspection
•
Refer to the Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout) Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
FINAL DRIVE 10-9
BRAKES 11-1
Brakes
Table of Contents
11
11-2 BRAKES
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
2 Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws
3 Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
4 Brake Lever Pivot Bolt
5 Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
6 Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
7 Bleed Valve
8 Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
B: Apply brake fluid.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).
5.9
5.9
9.8
7.8
25
N·m
25
1.5
8.8
BRAKES 11-3
Torque kgf·m
2.5
0.15
0.90
0.60
0.60
1.0
0.80
2.5
ft·lb
18
13 in·lb
78 in·lb
52 in·lb
52 in·lb
87 in·lb
69 in·lb
18
Remarks
S
Si
L
11-4 BRAKES
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
2 Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts
3 Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut
4 Brake Pedal Bolt
5 Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
6 Rear Caliper Holder Bolt
7 Rear Brake Pad Pins
8 Bleed Valve
9 Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
B: Apply brake fluid.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).
N·m
25
9.8
17.5
25
25
22.1
17.2
7.8
9.8
BRAKES 11-5
Torque kgf·m
2.5
1.0
1.78
2.5
2.5
2.25
1.75
0.80
1.0
ft·lb
18
87 in·lb
12.9
18
18
16.3
12.7
69 in·lb
87 in·lb
Remarks
G
L
L
11-6 BRAKES
Specifications
Item
Brake Lever
Brake Lever Free Play
Brake Fluid
Grade:
Front
Rear
Brake Pads
Lining Thickness:
Front
Rear
Brake Discs
Thickness:
Front
Rear
Runout
Standard
Adjustable (to suit rider)
DOT3 or DOT4
DOT4
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
2.85
∼
3.15 mm (0.112
∼
0.124 in.)
2.85
∼
3.15 mm (0.112
∼
0.124 in.)
TIR 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
2.5 mm (0.098 in.)
2.5 mm (0.098 in.)
TIR 0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
Special Tools
Jack:
57001-1238
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
BRAKES 11-7
11-8 BRAKES
Brake Lever, Brake Pedal
Brake Lever Play Adjustment
•
Refer to the Brake Lever and Pedal Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Brake Pedal Position Adjustment
•
Refer to the Brake Lever and Pedal Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Brake Pedal Removal
•
Remove:
Cotter Pin [A]
Joint Pin [B]
Washer [C]
NOTE
○
Pull off the joint pin while pressing down the brake pedal.
•
Remove:
Brake Pedal Bolt [A]
Brake Pedal Return Spring [B]
Brake Pedal [C]
Brake Pedal Installation
•
Install the return spring [A].
•
Replace the O-rings [A] with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the O-rings and shaft portion [B] of the brake pedal bolt.
•
Install the brake pedal [C].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Pedal Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
Brake Lever, Brake Pedal
•
Replace the cotter pin with a new one.
•
Install the joint pin, washer and new cotter pin.
•
Bend the ends [A] of the cotter pin.
•
Check the brake pedal position (see Brake Lever and
Pedal Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
BRAKES 11-9
11-10 BRAKES
Brake Fluid
WARNING
When working with the disc brake, observe the pre-
•
cautions listed below.
Never reuse old brake fluid.
•
Do not use fluid from a container that has been left unsealed or that has been open for a long time.
•
Do not mix two types and brands of fluid for use in the brake. This lowers the brake fluid boiling point and could cause the brake to be ineffective.
It may also cause the rubber brake parts to deteriorate.
•
Don’t leave the reservoir cap off for any length of time to avoid moisture contamination of the fluid.
•
Don’t change the fluid in the rain or when a strong wind is blowing.
•
Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning of the brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts. Gasoline, engine oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.
•
When handling the disc pads or disc, be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on them.
Clean off any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc with a high flash-point solvent.
Do not use one which will leave an oily residue.
Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
•
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.
•
If any of the brake line fittings or the bleed valve is opened at any time, the AIR MUST BE BLED FROM
THE BRAKE LINE.
Brake Fluid Level Inspection
•
Refer to the Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Brake Fluid Change
•
Refer to the Brake Fluid Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Brake Fluid
Brake Line Bleeding
The brake fluid has a very low compression coefficient so that almost all the movement of the brake lever or pedal is transmitted directly to the caliper for braking action. Air, however, is easily compressed. When air enters the brake lines, brake lever or pedal movement will be partially used in compressing the air. This will make the lever or pedal feel spongy, and there will be a loss in braking power.
WARNING
Air in the brake lines diminish braking performance and can cause an accident resulting in injury or death. If the brake lever has a soft or "spongy" feeling mushy when it is applied, there might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Do not operate the vehicle and service the brake system immediately.
•
Level the brake fluid reservoir.
Front Brake Reservoir
•
Remove:
Brake Reservoir Cap Screws [A]
Reservoir Cap [B]
•
Diaphragm
Check that there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir.
•
Slowly pump the brake lever several times until no air bubbles rise up from the bottom of the reservoir.
○
Bleed the air completely from the master cylinder by this operation.
Rear Brake Reservoir
•
Remove:
Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt [A] and Washer
Brake Reservoir [B]
Brake Reservoir Cap [C]
NOTE
○
The procedure to bleed the front brake line is as follows.
Bleeding the rear brake line is the same as for the front brake.
BRAKES 11-11
11-12 BRAKES
Brake Fluid
•
Remove the rubber cap [A] from the bleed valve on the caliper.
•
Attach a clear plastic hose [B] to the bleed valve on the caliper, and run the other end of the hose into a container.
•
Bleed the brake line and caliper as follows:
○
Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen coming out into the clear plastic hose.
1. Pump the brake lever until it becomes hard, and apply the brake and hold it [A].
2. Quickly open and close [B] the bleed valve while holding the brake applied.
3. Release the brake [C].
NOTE
○
The fluid level must be checked often during the bleeding operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid as necessary. If the fluid in the reservoir runs almost out any time during bleeding operation, the bleeding operation must be done over again from the beginning since air will have entered the line.
○
Tap the brake hose lightly from the caliper to the reservoir for easier bleeding.
•
Remove the clear plastic hose.
•
Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.
Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)
•
Check the fluid level (see Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Front Brake Reservoir
Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15
kgf·m, 13 in·lb)
Rear Brake Reservoir
•
Follow procedure below to install the rear brake fluid reservoir cap correctly.
○
First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clockwise [C] by hand until slight resistance is felt indicating that the cap is seated on the reservoir body, then tighten the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the brake fluid reservoir body [A].
•
Install:
Rear Brake Reservoir
Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolts and Washers
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Brake Fluid
•
After bleeding is done, check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.
BRAKES 11-13
11-14 BRAKES
Caliper
Caliper Removal
Front Brake
Loosen the brake pad pin [A] before the caliper [B] re-
• moval if the caliper is to be disassembled.
Loosen the banjo bolt [C] so as not to spill brake fluid.
•
Remove:
Caliper Mounting Bolts [D]
Banjo Bolt
Caliper
NOTICE
Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that is spilled.
Rear Brake
•
Remove:
Caliper Guard Mounting Bolts [A]
Caliper Guard [B]
Remove the plug [A] and loosen the brake pad pins [B] and caliper holder bolt [C] before the caliper removal if
• the caliper [D] is to be disassembled.
Loosen the banjo bolt [E] so as not to spill brake fluid.
•
Remove:
Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
Caliper Mounting Bolts [F]
Banjo Bolt
Caliper
NOTICE
Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that is spilled.
Caliper Installation
•
Install the brake pad if it was removed (see Brake Pad
Installation).
Front Brake
•
Install the caliper and tighten the bolts.
Torque - Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,
18 ft·lb)
Rear Brake
•
Install the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Installation in the
Wheels/Tires chapter).
•
Install the caliper and tighten the bolts.
Torque - Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,
18 ft·lb)
Caliper
•
Install the brake hose lower end.
•
Replace the washers [A] on each side of hose fitting [B] with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.
Caliper Disassembly/Assembly
•
Refer to the Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Fluid Seal Damage Inspection
The fluid seal(s) [A] around the piston maintains the proper pad/disc clearance. If this seal is not in good condition, pad wear will increase, and constant pad drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature.
•
Replace the fluid seal(s) under any of the following conditions.
○
Fluid leakage around the pad
○
Brakes overheat
○
There is a large difference in piston side pad and another side pad wear.
○
The seal is stuck to the piston.
If the fluid seal(s) is replaced, replace the dust seal(s) [B] as well. Also, replace all seals every other time the pads are changed.
[C] Front Caliper
[D] Rear Caliper
Dust Seal Damage Inspection
•
Check that the dust seal(s) is not cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.
If they show any damage, replace them.
BRAKES 11-15
11-16 BRAKES
Caliper
Caliper Dust Boot and Friction Boot Damage
Inspection
•
Check that the dust boot [A] and friction boot [B] are not cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.
If they show any damage, replace it.
[C] Front Caliper
[D] Rear Caliper
Caliper Piston and Cylinder Damage Inspection
•
Visually inspect the piston(s) [A] and cylinder surface(s)
[B].
Replace the caliper if the cylinder and piston are badly scores or rusty.
[C] Front Caliper
[D] Rear Caliper
Caliper
Caliper Holder Shaft Wear Inspection
The caliper body must slide smoothly on the caliper holder shaft(s) [A]. If the body does not slide smoothly, one pad will wear more than the other, pad wear will increase, and constant drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature.
•
Check to see that the caliper holder shaft(s) is not badly worn or stepped, and that the friction boot [B] is not damaged.
If the friction boot is damaged, replace the friction boot.
To replace the friction boot, remove the pads and caliper bracket.
If the caliper holder shaft(s) is damaged, replace the caliper holder.
Torque - Rear Caliper Holder Bolt: 22.1 N·m (2.25 kgf·m,
16.3 ft·lb)
[C] Front Caliper
[D] Rear Caliper
BRAKES 11-17
11-18 BRAKES
Brake Pad
Brake Pad Removal
Front Brake
•
Loosen the pad pin [A].
•
Remove the front caliper [B] with the hose installed (see
Caliper Removal).
•
Remove:
Pad Pin [A]
Piston Side Pad [B]
•
Push the caliper holder [C] toward the piston, and then remove the pad [D] from the caliper holder shaft.
•
Rear Brake
Remove the caliper guard (see Caliper Removal).
•
Loosen the pad pins [A].
•
Remove the rear caliper [B] with the hose installed (see
Caliper Removal).
•
Remove:
Pad Pins [A]
Piston Side Pad [B]
•
Push the caliper holder [C] toward the piston, and then remove the pad [D] from the caliper holder shaft.
Brake Pad
Brake Pad Installation
•
Push the caliper piston(s) in by hand as far as they will go.
•
Install the piston side pad [A] first, and then another pad
[B].
○
The piston side pad of the calipers has a wear protecting shim. Be careful not to mix it up with the other pad.
[C] Front Brake
[D] Rear Brake
•
Tighten the brake pad pin(s) [E].
Torque - Rear Brake Pad Pins: 17.2 N·m (1.75 kgf·m, 12.7
ft·lb)
BRAKES 11-19
•
Install the caliper (see the Caliper Installation)
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.
Brake Pad Inspection
•
Refer to the Brake Pad Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
11-20 BRAKES
Master Cylinder
NOTICE
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted or plastic surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely washed up immediately.
Front Master Cylinder Removal
•
Remove the banjo bolt [A] to disconnect the brake hose upper end [B] from the master cylinder [C].
○
When removing the brake hose, temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
NOTICE
Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.
•
Remove the clamp bolts [A], and take off the master cylinder [B] as an assembly with the brake lever.
Front Master Cylinder Installation
•
Position the master cylinder so that the vertical parting line [A] of the master cylinder clamps align with the punch mark [B] on the handlebar.
[C] 21.4 mm (0.84 in.)
[D] 23 mm (0.91 in.)
NOTICE
Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.
•
The master cylinder clamp must be installed with the arrow mark [A] upward.
•
Tighten the upper clamp bolt [B] first, and then the lower clamp bolt [C].
○
There will be a gap at the lower mating surface of the clamp after tightening.
Torque - Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.90
kgf·m, 78 in·lb)
Master Cylinder
•
Install the brake hose (see Brake Hose Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Replace the washers [A] on each side of hose fitting [B] with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
•
Rear Master Cylinder Removal
Remove the brake pedal [A] (see Brake Pedal Removal).
•
Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts [B], and remove the master cylinder [C] backward.
•
Remove the brake hose banjo bolt [D].
○
When removing the brake hose, temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
NOTICE
Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.
Rear Master Cylinder Installation
•
Install the brake hose (see Brake Hose Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Replace the washers [A] on each side of hose fitting [B] with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
NOTICE
Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.
•
Install the rear master cylinder.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Install the brake pedal (see Brake Pedal Installation).
BRAKES 11-21
11-22 BRAKES
Master Cylinder
•
Check the brake pedal position (see Brake Lever and
Pedal Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until the pads are against the disc.
Master Cylinder Disassembly/Assembly
•
Refer to the Brake Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Master Cylinder Inspection (Visual Inspection)
Disassemble the front and rear master cylinders.
•
Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the inner wall of each master cylinder [A] and on the outside of each piston [B].
If a master cylinder or piston shows any damage, replace them.
•
Inspect the primary [C] and secondary [D] cups.
If a cup is worn, damaged, softened (rotted), or swollen, the piston assembly should be replace to renew the cups.
If fluid leakage is noted at the brake lever, the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the cup.
•
Check the dust covers [E] for damage.
If they are damaged, replace them.
•
Check that the relief [F] and supply [G] ports are not plugged.
If the small relief port becomes plugged, the brake pads will drag on the disc. Blow the ports clean with compressed air.
•
Check the piston return springs [H] for any damage.
If a spring is damaged, replace it.
Front Master Cylinder [I]
Rear Master Cylinder [J]
Brake Disc
Brake Disc Removal
•
Remove the wheels (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal in the Wheels/Tires chapter).
•
Remove the mounting bolts [A], and take off the disc [B].
Brake Disc Installation
•
Install the brake disc on the wheel so that the marked side
[A] faces out.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the brake disc mounting bolts [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Brake Disc Inspection
•
Visually inspect the disc [A].
If it is scratched or damaged, replace the disc.
•
Measure the thickness of each disc at the point [B] where it has worn the most.
Disc Thickness
Standard: 2.85
∼
3.15 mm (0.112
∼
0.124 in.)
Service Limit: 2.5 mm (0.098 in.)
Replace the disc if it has worn past the service limit.
•
Place a jack under the motorcycle so that the front/rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Set up a dial gauge against the disc [A].
○
For the front disc, turn the handlebars fully to one side.
•
Measure the disc runout while rotating [B] the wheel slowly.
Disc Runout
Standard: TIR 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the disc.
BRAKES 11-23
11-24 BRAKES
Brake Hose
Brake Hose Removal/Installation
•
Refer to the Brake Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Brake Hose Inspection
•
Refer to the Brake Hoses and Connections Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
SUSPENSION 12-1
Suspension
Table of Contents
Exploded View...................................
Specifications ....................................
Special Tools .....................................
Front Fork ..........................................
Air Pressure Adjustment ..............
Adjustment ................................
Oil Change ...................................
Front Fork Removal .....................
Front Fork Installation ..................
Front Fork Disassembly ...............
Front Fork Assembly....................
Front Fork Top Plug Inspection ....
Inspection..................................
Cylinder Unit Inspection ...............
Inner Tube Inspection ..................
Dust Seal Inspection ....................
Inspection..................................
Rear Shock Absorber ........................
Rear Shock Absorber Adjustment 12-17
Rebound Damping Adjustment ....
Adjustment (Gas Reservoir)......
Spring Preload Adjustment ..........
Tension Inspection ....................
Rear Shock Absorber Removal ...
Rear Shock Absorber Installation 12-20
Replacement .............................
Disassembly (Oil Change) ........
Rear Shock Absorber Assembly ..
Rear Shock Absorber Inspection .
Removal ....................................
Installation .................................
Rear Shock Absorber Scrapping .
Swingarm...........................................
Swingarm Removal......................
Swingarm Installation...................
Swingarm Bearing Removal ........
Swingarm Bearing Installation .....
Drive Chain Guide, Guide Roller,
Chain Slipper Wear Inspection..
Inspection..................................
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm.........................
Tie-Rod Removal .........................
Tie-Rod Installation ......................
Rocker Arm Removal...................
Rocker Arm Installation................
Rocker Arm Bearing Removal .....
Rocker Arm Bearing Installation ..
Needle Bearing Inspection...........
Uni-Trak Maintenance .......................
Uni-Trak Linkage Inspection ........
Wear Inspection ........................
Mounting Bolt Bend Inspection .
12
12-2 SUSPENSION
Exploded View
SUSPENSION 12-3
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Air Pressure Relief Screws
2 Front Fork Top Plugs
3 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
4 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
5 Front Fork Push Rod Nuts
6 Compression Valve Assembly
N·m
1.3
28
20
20
15
55
Torque kgf·m
0.13
2.9
2.0
2.0
1.5
5.6
ft·lb
12 in·lb
21
15
15
11
41
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
Remarks
AL
L
12-4 SUSPENSION
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Rocker Arm Bracket Bolts
2 Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
3 Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
4 Compression Damping Adjuster
5 Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Upper)
6 Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Lower)
7 Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
G: Apply grease.
R: Replacement Parts
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
SUSPENSION 12-5
Torque
N·m kgf·m
83 8.5
83
59
17.5
39
39
69
8.5
6.0
1.78
4.0
4.0
7.0
ft·lb
61
61
44
12.9
29
29
51
Remarks
2T
R
R
R
12-6 SUSPENSION
Specifications
Item
Front Fork
Air Pressure
Compression Damper Setting:
KX85C
Standard
Atmospheric pressure
Service Limit
– – –
KX85D/KX100F
Suspension Oil:
Amount
Fork Oil Level
10 clicks counterclockwise
14 clicks counterclockwise
Kawasaki KHL15-10 or equivalent
310 ±4 mL (10.5 ±0.1 US oz.)
95 ±2 mm (3.74 ±0.08 in.)
(Adjustable Range)
20 clicks
(Adjustable Range)
20 clicks
– – –
(Adjustable Range)
295
∼
325 mL (9.97
∼
11.0 US oz.)
(Adjustable Range)
75
∼
115 mm (2.95
∼
4.53 in.)
422 mm (16.6 in.) Fork Spring Free Length
Rear Shock Absorber
Rebound Damper Setting
430 mm (16.9 in.)
11 clicks counterclockwise (Adjustable Range)
21 clicks
Compression Damper Setting:
KX85C
10 clicks counterclockwise
KX85D/KX100F
14 clicks counterclockwise
Spring Preload Setting Position:
Standard
Usable Range
Rear Shock Spring Free Length
Suspension Oil:
Amount
Gas Pressure
Uni-Trak Maintenance
Sleeve Outside Diameter:
Tie-Rod
67.5 mm (2.66 in.)
63
∼
81 mm (2.5
∼
3.2 in.)
256 mm (10.1 in.)
Kawasaki KHV10-K2C or equivalent
162 mL (5.48 US oz.)
980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm², 142 psi)
17.989
∼
18.000 mm (0.70823
∼
0.70866 in.)
Rocker Arm:
Large
Small
17.989
∼
18.000 mm (0.70823
∼
0.70866 in.)
15.950
∼
16.000 mm (0.62795
∼
0.62992 in.)
Rocker Arm Mounting Bolt Runout TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less
(Adjustable Range)
24 clicks
(Adjustable Range)
24 clicks
– – –
– – –
251 mm (9.88 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
17.96 mm (0.7071 in.)
17.96 mm (0.7071 in.)
15.92 mm (0.6268 in.)
TIR 0.2 mm (0.008
in.)
Special Tools
Spring Compressor:
57001-1087
Hook Wrench R37.5, R42:
57001-1101
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Jack:
57001-1238
Bearing Remover Shaft, 9:
57001-1265
SUSPENSION 12-7
Bearing Remover Head, 15 × 17:
57001-1267
Fork Oil Seal Driver, 36:
57001-1352
Fork Cylinder Holder:
57001-1413
Hook Wrench R=35:
57001-1580
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
12-8 SUSPENSION
Special Tools
Fork Oil Seal Driver Weight, 48
∼
54:
57001-1796
Fork Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 36
∼
46:
57001-1798
Front Fork
Air Pressure Adjustment
The standard air pressure in the front fork legs is atmospheric (0 kPa, 0 kgf/cm², 0 psi). Air pressure in the fork legs increase with normal use, so the fork action stiffens during operation. Release air pressure from the fork legs prior to each race through the air pressure relief screw located in front fork top plug.
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Remove the air pressure relief screws [A] on each front fork top plug [B].
NOTE
○
Do not use the side stand when adjusting the air pressure.
○
Adjust the air pressure when the front forks are cold.
•
Replace the O-rings with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Air Pressure Relief Screws: 1.3 N·m (0.13 kgf·m,
12 in·lb)
Compression Damping Adjustment
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Clean the bottom of the fork tubes.
•
Remove the caps [A] on the both bottom of the fork tubes.
SUSPENSION 12-9
•
Turn the compression damping adjuster [A] on the compression valve assembly [B] with a standard tip screwdriver until you feel a click. Adjust the compression damping to suit your preference under certain condition.
NOTICE
Do not force the compression damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
12-10 SUSPENSION
Front Fork
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Compression Damper Settings
Standard:
KX85C 10 clicks counterclockwise [B]
KX85D/KX100F 14 clicks counterclockwise [C]
Softer (Counterclockwise) [D]
Harder (Clockwise) [E]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
NOTICE
The right and left fork tubes must be adjusted evenly.
•
Install the caps on the both bottom of the fork tubes.
Oil Change
•
Refer to the Front Fork Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Front Fork Removal
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Brake Hose Clamp Bolts [A] and Brake Hose Clamps [B]
(Left Side only)
Front Fork Protector Mounting Bolts [C] and Front Fork
Protector [D] (Both Sides)
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts [E]
Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
•
Put the caliper [A] on suitable stand [B] so that it does not dangle.
Front Fork
•
Loosen the upper [A] and lower [B] front fork clamp bolts.
SUSPENSION 12-11
•
Pull out the front fork downward with a twisting motion [A].
•
Front Fork Installation
Install the front fork.
○
The height [A] between the top end of the outer tube [B] and upper surface of the steering stem head [C].
Standard Fork Height
[D] KX85C: 18 mm (0.71 in.)
[E] KX85D/KX100F: 0 mm (0 in.)
NOTICE
Both fork heights should be adjusted evenly.
NOTE
○
Steering is greatly affected by the fork height. The less the fork height, the lighter the front end becomes and the greater the tendency for understeering and washout due to weight biasing. Increasing the fork height has opposite effects.
○
Be sure that the front tire does not touch the fender when the fork is fully compressed. Make this adjustment in 10 mm (0.39 in.) steps.
•
Run the cables and hoses according to the Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts (lower) alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
•
Install the front fork protectors so that they do not touch the front fork outer tubes.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
12-12 SUSPENSION
Front Fork
Front Fork Disassembly
•
Drain the fork oil (see Front Fork Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Hold the fork leg horizontally in a vise.
•
Compress the outer tube.
•
Remove the cap on the bottom of the front fork tube.
•
Stop the cylinder unit [A] from turning by using the fork cylinder holder [B]. Unscrew the compression valve assembly [C], and take the compression valve assembly and gasket [D] out of the bottom of the inner tube [E].
Special Tool - Fork Cylinder Holder: 57001-1413
•
Remove the push rod [A] and cylinder unit [B] from the top of the outer tube [C].
•
Separate the inner tube [A] from the outer tube [B] as follows:
○
Slide up the spring band [C].
○
Slide up the dust seal [D].
Front Fork
○
Remove the retaining ring [A] from the outer tube [B].
SUSPENSION 12-13
○
Grasp the tubes and stroke the inner tube [A] up and down
[B] several times. The shock to fork seal separates the inner tube from the outer tube [C].
•
Remove:
Bushings [A]
Washer [B]
Oil Seal [C]
Retaining Ring [D]
Dust Seal [E]
Spring Band [F]
•
Wipe off the oil from the removed parts.
Front Fork Assembly
•
Replace the following parts with new ones:
Dust Seal [A] with Spring Band
Retaining Ring [B]
Oil Seal [C]
Bushings [D]
•
Place an oil coated plastic bag [E] over the end of the inner tube to protect the oil seals.
○
The inner tube bushings groove has a sharp edge [F] that cut out the sealing lip of the seals as they are pushed
• down over the inner tube.
Apply grease to the oil seal.
•
Install in order these parts on the inner tube.
NOTE
○
Install the dust seal (Spring band side down), retaining ring and oil seal (marked side down).
12-14 SUSPENSION
Front Fork
•
When assembling the new outer tube bushings, washer and new oil seal [A], hold the oil seal against the new one, and tap the oil seal with the fork oil seal driver [B] until it stops.
Special Tools - Fork Oil Seal Driver, 36:57001-1352 or
Fork Oil Seal Driver Weight, 48
∼
54:
57001-1796
Fork Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 36
∼
46:
•
57001-1798
Install the retaining ring to the outer tube.
•
Push the dust seal into the outer tube, and put the spring band on the dust seal.
•
Replace the gasket [A] and O-rings [C] of the compression valve assembly [B] with a new ones.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads [D] of the compression valve and screw the valve assembly into the bottom of the inner tube.
•
Install the cylinder unit with a fork cylinder holder, and tighten the compression valve assembly to the specified torque.
Special Tool - Fork Cylinder Holder: 57001-1413
Torque - Compression Valve Assembly: 55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m,
41 ft·lb)
•
•
Install the push rod [A] so that the longer taper [B] is down.
Install the front fork push rod nut [C].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Push Rod Nuts: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)
•
Pour the fork oil (see Front Fork Oil Change in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
Front Fork Top Plug Inspection
•
Inspect the front fork top plug [A] for damage.
If the front fork top plug is damaged, replace it with a new one.
•
Replace the O-ring [B] on the front fork top plug with a new one.
Front Fork
Compression Valve Assembly Inspection
•
Inspect the threads portion [A] of the compression valve assembly [B] for damage.
If they are damaged, replace the compression valve assembly with a new one.
•
Replace the O-rings [C] with new ones.
Cylinder Unit Inspection
•
Inspect the piston rod [A] of the cylinder unit [B] for scratches or bending.
If it has scratches or is bent, replace the cylinder unit with a new one.
Inner Tube Inspection
•
Visually inspect the inner tube [A].
If there is any damage, replace the inner tube. Since damage to the inner tube damages the oil seal and dust seal, replace the oil seal and dust seal whenever the inner tube is replaced.
NOTICE
If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace it.
Excessive bending, followed by subsequent straightening, can weaken the inner tube.
•
Temporarily assemble the inner [A] and outer [B] tubes, and pump them back and forth manually to check for smooth operation.
If you feel binding or catching, the inner and outer tubes must be replaced.
WARNING
A straightened inner or outer fork tube may fall in use, possibly causing an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Replace a badly bent or damaged inner or outer tube and inspect the other tube carefully before reusing it.
SUSPENSION 12-15
12-16 SUSPENSION
Front Fork
Dust Seal Inspection
•
Inspect the dust seal [A] for any signs of deterioration or damage.
Replace it if necessary.
Front Fork Spring Tension Inspection
•
Since a spring becomes shorter as it weakens, check its free length [A] to determine its condition.
If the spring is shorter than the service limit, it must be replaced.
Fork Spring Free Length
Standard: 430 mm (16.9 in.)
Service Limit: 422 mm (16.6 in.)
Rear Shock Absorber
Rear Shock Absorber Adjustment
To suit to various riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an optional one. Also the damping force can be adjusted easily so changing oil viscosity unnecessary.
Rebound Damping Adjustment
•
Turn the rebound damping adjuster [A] at the bottom of the rear shock absorber with a standard tip screwdriver until you feel a click.
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.
NOTICE
Do not force the rebound damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Rebound Damper Settings
Standard: 11 clicks counterclockwise [B]
Softer (Counterclockwise) [C]
Harder (Clockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
NOTE
○
Adjustment of the rebound damping adjuster for the rear suspension will slightly affect the compression damping force. Always make any damping adjustments in small steps and test their effects before using them in competition.
Compression Damping Adjustment (Gas
Reservoir)
•
Turn the compression damping adjuster [A] on the gas reservoir with a standard tip screwdriver until you feel a click.
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.
NOTICE
Do not force the compression damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
SUSPENSION 12-17
12-18 SUSPENSION
Rear Shock Absorber
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Compression Damper Settings
Standard:
KX85C 10 clicks counterclockwise [B]
KX85D/KX100F 14 clicks counterclockwise [C]
Softer (Counterclockwise) [D]
Harder (Clockwise) [E]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
NOTE
○
Adjustment of the compression damping adjuster for the rear suspension will slightly affect the rebound damping force. Always make any damping adjustments in small steps and test their effects before using them in competition.
Spring Preload Adjustment
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Side Covers (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame chapter)
Rear Fender (see Rear Fender Removal in the Frame chapter)
Rear Flap (see Rear Flap Removal in the Frame chapter)
Rear Frame Pipe (see Rear Frame Pipe Removal in the
Frame chapter)
Muffler (see Muffler Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Air Cleaner Case with Air Cleaner Duct (see Air Cleaner
Housing Removal in the Fuel System chapter)
•
Stuff a clean cloth into the carburetor opening to prevent dust or dirt from entering the carburetor.
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Using the hook wrenches (R35, R37.5), loosen the rear shock absorber spring locknut [A].
Special Tools - Hook Wrench R=35 [B]: 57001-1580
Hook Wrench R37.5, R42 [C] : 57001-1101
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Using the hook wrench (R37.5) [A], turn the spring preload adjusting nut [B] as required. Turning the adjusting nut downward makes the spring action harder and upward softer.
Special Tool - Hook Wrench R37.5, R42: 57001-1101
SUSPENSION 12-19
Spring Preload Setting Position
(The length [A] between the Center of Upper Rear
Shock Absorber Pivot [B] and Spring End [C])
Standard: 67.5 mm (2.66 in.)
•
Usable Range: 63
∼
81 mm (2.5
∼
3.2 in.)
Tighten the rear shock absorber spring locknut.
•
After making the adjustment, move the spring up and down to make sure that it is properly seated.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Rear Shock Absorber Spring Tension Inspection
•
Since the spring becomes shorter as it weakens, check its free length [A] to determine its condition.
Rear Shock Spring Free Length
Standard: 256 mm (10.1 in.)
Service Limit: 251 mm (9.88 in.)
If the free length falls below the service limit, replace the spring.
Rear Shock Absorber Removal
•
Pull the hoses [A] upward not to be damaged by rear shock absorber removing.
•
Remove the right side cover (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
12-20 SUSPENSION
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Remove:
Rear Tie-Rod Mounting Bolt and Nut [A]
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts [B]
○
Support the rocker arm [C] to slide out the tie-rod bolts.
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the rear wheel slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
•
Remove:
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Lower) [A]
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Upper) [B]
•
Remove the rear shock absorber [A].
•
Rear Shock Absorber Installation
Apply plenty of grease to the oil seals and grease seals.
•
Install the rear shock absorber.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Upper): 39
N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Lower): 39
N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement
In addition to the standard spring, heavy and light springs are available. If the standard spring is improper for your purpose, select a proper one according to the rider’s weight or course conditions.
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
•
Clean the threaded portion on the upper of the rear shock absorber.
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Hold the upper end of the rear shock absorber in a vise with soft jaws [A] or a heavy cloth.
•
Using the hook wrenches (R35, R37.5), Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut all way up.
Special Tools - Hook Wrench R=35: 57001-1580
Hook Wrench R37.5, R42: 57001-1101
•
Using the Spring Compressor [B], compress the spring
[C].
Special Tool - Spring Compressor: 57001-1087
•
Slide the damper [A].
•
Remove the spring retainer clip [B] from the shock absorber and lift off the spring [C].
•
Remove the rear shock absorber from the vise.
•
Exchange the spring for an optional part.
○
Install the spring so that large diameter end [A] faces upward.
•
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
Install the spring seat and new circlip.
•
Adjust the spring preload (see Spring Preload Adjustment).
•
Install the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber
Installation).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Rear Shock Absorber Disassembly (Oil Change)
•
Refer to the Rear Shock Absorber Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Rear Shock Absorber Assembly
•
Refer to the Rear Shock Absorber Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Rear Shock Absorber Inspection
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
•
Visually inspect the following items.
Oil Leakage
Crack or Dent
If there is any damage to the rear shock absorber, replace it.
•
Visually inspect the oil seal [A].
If it show any signs of damage, replace it.
SUSPENSION 12-21
12-22 SUSPENSION
Rear Shock Absorber
Rear Shock Absorber Bearing Removal
•
Remove:
Oil Seals [A]
Needle Bearing [B]
Sleeve [C]
Rear Shock Absorber Bearing Installation
•
Replace the needle bearing [A] and the oil seals [B] with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease [C] to the inside of the needle bearing, the sleeve [D] and the lip of the oil seals.
NOTE
○
Install the needle bearings so that the manufacturer’s marks face out.
○
Install the oil seals so that the deep groove side of the rip inward.
•
Install the removed parts.
[E] 4 mm (0.16 in.)
[F] View from Top
Rear Shock Absorber Scrapping
WARNING
Pressurized nitrogen may explode when heated.
The rear shock contains nitrogen gas. To avoid an explosion, do not incinerate the rear shock body without first releasing the nitrogen.
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
•
Insert a suitable tool into the gas reservoir cap hole [A] to release the nitrogen gas.
Swingarm
Swingarm Removal
•
Remove:
Rear Tie-Rod Mounting Bolt and Nut (see Tie-Rod Removal)
Bolts [A]
Screws [B]
Chain Guide Plate [C]
•
Remove:
Screws [A] and Brake Hose Clamps [B]
Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
Rear Caliper (see Caliper Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Put the caliper [A] on suitable stand [B] so that it does not dangle.
SUSPENSION 12-23
•
Remove the rear master cylinder mounting bolts [A].
•
Remove the swingarm pivot shaft [B] and nut while pulling down the brake pedal [C].
•
Remove swingarm [D].
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the swingarm slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
•
Remove the screws [A].
•
Remove the chain slipper [B] from the swingarm.
12-24 SUSPENSION
Swingarm
Swingarm Installation
•
Apply plenty of grease to the inside of the needle bearings, sleeves, and grease seals.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the chain slipper
• screws.
Install the chain slipper, and tighten the screws.
•
Replace with new ones:
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
•
Rear Tie-Rod Mounting Nut
Install the swingarm.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut: 69 N·m (7.0 kgf·m, 51 ft·lb)
Rear Tie-Rod Mounting Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Swingarm Bearing Removal
•
Remove:
Swingarm (see Swingarm Removal)
Dust Seals [A]
Grease Seals [B]
Sleeves [C]
•
Remove the needle bearings [D] using the bearing remover.
Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft, 9: 57001-1265
Bearing Remover Head, 15 × 17: 57001
-1267
Swingarm Bearing Installation
•
Replace the needle bearings and grease seals with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease to the grease seals [A], and needle bearings [B] [C].
NOTE
○
Install the needle bearings so that the manufacturer’s marks face out.
○
Install the grease seals so that the deep groove side of the rip inward.
•
Install the needle bearings, grease seals, sleeves [D] and dust seals [E] using a suitable tool.
[F] 5.0 mm (0.2 in.)
○
The installation procedure is the same as the counter side.
Drive Chain Guide, Guide Roller, Chain Slipper
Wear Inspection
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Guide, Guide Roller, Chain Slipper Wear Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Swingarm
Swingarm Bearing, Sleeve Inspection
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Removal may damage them.
•
Inspect the needle bearings [A] installed in the swingarm.
○
The rollers in a bearings normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring, visually inspect the bearings for abrasion, discoloration, or other damage.
If the needle bearings and sleeve show any signs of abnormal wear, discoloration, or damage, replace them as a set.
SUSPENSION 12-25
12-26 SUSPENSION
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
Tie-Rod Removal
•
Pull the hoses [A] upward not to be damaged by tie-rod removing.
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band
[A].
•
Remove:
Rear Tie-Rod Mounting Bolt and Nut [A]
Front Tie-Rod Mounting Bolt and Nut [B]
Tie-Rod [C]
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the rear wheel slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
Tie-Rod Installation
•
Apply plenty of grease to the inside of the needle bearings and sleeves.
Rocker Arm Needle Bearings
•
Tie-Rod Needle Bearings
•
Install the tie-rod so that the marked side faces out.
○
Install the tie-rod mounting bolts from the left side.
•
Replace the tie-rod mounting nuts with new ones.
Tighten:
Torque - Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
Rocker Arm Removal
•
Using the jack under the frame, raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
•
Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band
[A].
SUSPENSION 12-27
•
Remove:
Tie-Rod [A] (see Tie-Rod Removal)
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Lower) [B]
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the rear wheel slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
•
Remove the lower chain guide roller [A].
If the lower chain guide roller is damaged, replace it.
•
Remove the rocker arm pivot bolt [A] and nut and the rocker arm [B].
12-28 SUSPENSION
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
Rocker Arm Installation
•
Replace with new ones:
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
•
Apply plenty of grease to the inside of needle bearings and sleeves.
Rocker Arm Needle Bearings
Tie-Rod Needle Bearings
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Upper): 39
N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt (Lower): 39
N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut: 83 N·m (8.5 kgf·m, 61 ft·lb)
Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Rocker Arm Bearing Removal
•
Remove:
Tie-Rod (see Tie-Rod Removal)
Rocker Arm (see Rocker Arm Removal)
Collar [A]
Sleeves [B]
Oil Seals [C]
Grease Seals [D]
•
Remove the needle bearings [E], using the bearing driver set.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Remove the needle bearing [F], using a suitable tool.
Rocker Arm Bearing Installation
•
Replace the needle bearings, oil seals and grease seals with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease to the oil seals, grease seals and needle bearings.
NOTE
○
Install the bearings so that the marked side faces out.
○
Install the oil seals so that the deep groove side [A] faces inward.
○
Install the grease seals so that the groove side [B] faces outward.
[C] Inward
[D] Outward
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
•
Install the needle bearings [A] [B], oil seals [C] and grease seals [D] so that their positions are as shown.
○
The other side is also the same procedures.
Front [E]
Right Side [F]
Left Side [G]
Rear Shock Absorber [H]
Tie-Rod [I]
Rocker Arm [J]
5.5 mm (0.2 in.) [K]
2.5 mm (0.1 in.) [L]
SUSPENSION 12-29
Needle Bearing Inspection
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Removal may damage them.
•
Inspect the needle bearings installed in the tie-rod and rocker arm.
○
The needle bearing normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring, visually inspect the bearings for abrasion, discoloration, or other damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of either needle bearing, replace the bearing and sleeve as a set.
12-30 SUSPENSION
Uni-Trak Maintenance
Uni-Trak Linkage Inspection
•
Refer to the Swingarm and Uni-Trak Linkage Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Tie-Rod and Rocker Arm Sleeve Wear Inspection
•
Pull out the sleeves [A] of the rocker arm and the tie-rod.
Measure the outside diameter of the sleeve.
Sleeve Outside Diameter
Standard:
Tie-Rod 17.989
∼
18.000 mm (0.70823
∼
0.70866 in.)
Rocker Arm:
Large
Small
17.989
∼
18.000 mm (0.70823
∼
0.70866 in.)
15.950
∼
16.000 mm (0.62795
∼
0.62992 in.)
Service Limit:
Tie-Rod 17.96 mm (0.7071 in.)
Rocker Arm:
Large
Small
17.96 mm (0.7071 in.)
15.92 mm (0.6268 in.)
If the sleeve is worn past the service limit, replace the sleeve.
Tie-Rod and Rocker Arm Mounting Bolt Bend
Inspection
A bent bolt causes vibration, poor handling, and instability.
•
To measure the bolt runout, remove the bolt, place it in V blocks, and set a dial gauge to the bolt at a point halfway
• between the blocks.
Turn [A] the bolt to measure the runout.
○
The amount of dial variation is the amount of runout.
Rocker Arm Mounting Bolt Runout
Standard: TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
If runout exceeds the service limit, replace the bolt.
STEERING 13-1
Steering
Table of Contents
13
13-2 STEERING
Exploded View
STEERING 13-3
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Handlebar Holder Bolts
2 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
3 Steering Stem Head Nut
4 Handlebar Holder Nuts
5 Steering Stem Nut
6 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
N·m
25
20
64
34
4.9
20
Torque kgf·m
2.5
2.0
6.5
3.5
0.50
2.0
ft·lb
18
15
47
25
43 in·lb
15
AD: Apply adhesive.
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
G: Apply grease.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
Remarks
2T, S
R
AL
13-4 STEERING
Special Tools
Bearing Puller:
57001-135
Steering Stem Nut Wrench:
57001-1100
Head Pipe Outer Race Driver, 46.5:
57001-1106
Bearing Driver, 32:
57001-382
Head Pipe Outer Race Press Shaft:
57001-1075
Head Pipe Outer Race Remover ID > 37 mm:
57001-1107
Steering Stem Bearing Driver Adapter, 29.7:
57001-1092
Bearing Puller:
57001-1575
Steering
Steering Inspection
•
Refer to the Steering Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Steering Adjustment
•
Refer to the Steering Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Removal
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Brake Hose Clamp Bolt [A]
Brake Hose Clamp [B]
•
Pull the fuel tank breather hose [A] out.
•
Remove:
Handlebar Holder Bolts [B]
Handlebar Holders [C]
Handlebars [D]
Steering Stem Head Nut [E] and Washer
•
Remove:
Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
Front Fender (see Front Fender Removal in the Frame chapter)
Front Forks (see Front Fork Removal in the Suspension chapter)
Steering Stem Head [A]
•
Hold the stem base [A] by hand, and remove the steering stem nut [B] with the steering stem nut wrench [C].
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
•
Remove the steering stem [D] and stem base from the head pipe.
STEERING 13-5
13-6 STEERING
Steering
•
Remove the upper stem bearing inner race (tapered roller bearing) [A].
•
Drive out the bearing outer races from the head pipe.
○
Remove the outer races pressed into the head pipe, using the head pipe outer race remover [A], and hammer the head pipe outer race remover to drive it out.
Special Tool - Head Pipe Outer Race Remover ID > 37 mm:
57001-1107
NOTE
○
If either steering stem bearing is damaged, it is recommended that both the upper and lower bearing (including outer races) should be replaced with new ones.
•
Remove the lower stem bearing inner race (tapered roller bearing) [A] with its grease seal from the stem using bearing pullers.
Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-135
Bearing Puller: 57001-1575
○
Assemble the parts of the bearing puller (Special Tool:
57001-1575).
Half-split Bases [B]
Stud Bolts [C]
Nuts [D]
○
Insert the each half-split base under the bottom of bearing inner race and connect the both bases by tightening the stud bolts and nuts.
NOTE
○
Tighten evenly two bases by the two stud bolts.
○
Assemble the parts of the bearing puller (Special Tool:
57001-135).
Stud Bolts [E]
Arm [F]
Center Bolt [G]
Adapter [H]
○
Turn the center bolt by a wrench and pull the bearing inner race.
Steering
•
Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Installation
Replace the bearing outer races with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the outer races.
•
Drive the outer races into the head pipe at the same time with the special tools.
Special Tools - Head Pipe Outer Race Press Shaft [A]:
57001-1075
Head Pipe Outer Race Driver, 46.5 [B]:
57001-1106
•
Replace the inner races with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the lower tapered roller bearing [A], and drive it onto the stem with the steering stem bearing driver
[B] and adapter [C].
Special Tools - Bearing Driver, 32: 57001-382
Steering Stem Bearing Driver Adapter,
29.7: 57001-1092
•
Apply grease to the upper tapered roller bearing, and install it in the head pipe.
•
Install the stem base through the head pipe and upper bearing, and hand-tighten the steering stem nut while pushing up the stem base.
•
Install:
Steering Stem Head
Washer (with the chamfer side facing upper side)
•
Steering Stem Head Nut
Tighten the steering stem head nut lightly.
•
Settle the bearing in place as follows;
○
Tighten the steering stem nut to 55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m, 41
ft·lb) of torque (To tighten the steering stem nut to the specified torque, hook the wrench [A] on the stem nut, and pull the wrench at the hole by 305 N·m (31.1 kgf) force [B] in the direction shown.).
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
○
Check that there is no play and the steering stem turns smoothly without rattles. If not, the steering stem bearings may be damaged.
○
Again back out the stem nut a fraction of a turn until it turns lightly.
○
Turn the stem nut lightly clockwise until it just becomes hard to turn. Do not overtighten, or the steering will be too tight.
Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 4.9 N·m (0.50 kgf·m, 43 in·lb)
STEERING 13-7
13-8 STEERING
Steering
•
Tighten the stem head nut temporarily.
•
Install the front forks (see Front Fork Installation in the
Suspension chapter).
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Steering Stem Head Nut: 64 N·m (6.5 kgf·m, 47 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the upper fork clamp bolts first, next the stem head nut, last the lower fork clamp bolts.
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts (lower) alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
WARNING
If the handlebar does not turn to the steering stop it may cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Be sure the cables, harnesses and hoses are routed properly and do not interfere with handlebar movement (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Check and adjust the following items.
Steering (see Steering Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Front Brake (see Brake Hoses and Connections Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Clutch Cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Throttle Cable (see Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Stem Bearing Lubrication
•
Refer to the Steering Stem Bearing Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Stem Bearing Wear, Damage Inspection
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, wash the upper and lower tapered rollers in the cages, and wipe the upper and lower outer races, which are press-fitted into the head pipe, clean off grease and dirt.
•
Visually inspect the outer race and the rollers.
Replace the bearing assembly if it show damage.
Steering
Stem Warp Inspection
•
Whenever the steering stem is removed, or if the steering cannot be adjusted for smooth action, check the steering stem shaft [A] for straightness.
If the steering stem shaft is bent, replace the steering stem.
STEERING 13-9
13-10 STEERING
Handlebars
Handlebar Removal
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Clutch Lever Assembly [A]
Engine Stop Switch [B] (see Engine Stop Switch Removal in the Electrical System chapter)
Bands [C]
Left Handlebar Grip [D]
•
Remove:
Throttle Grip Assembly [A] (see Throttle Cable Replacement in the Fuel System chapter)
Front Master Cylinder [B] (see Front Master Cylinder Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Pull the fuel tank breather hose [A] out.
•
Remove:
Handlebar Holder Bolts [B]
Handlebar Holders [C]
Handlebars [D]
•
Check the handlebars for bends or cracks.
If the handlebars was bended or cracked, replace it.
Handlebar Installation
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the adhesive cement coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply adhesive cement to the innermost area of the left handlebar grip [A] and all-around inner surface of the left handlebar grip hole entrance and also apply it to the roulette area on the handlebars.
•
The left handlebar grip must be installed so that align the convex mark [B] of left grip to the punch mark [C] of handlebars.
○
When installing the left handlebar grip, rotate the grip more than once first, and then remove and install the grip alternately more than three times to spread adhesive cement. Make sure that adhesive cement has been spread evenly.
○
After installation, hold the left handlebar grip area at more than three points to make the left handlebar grip stick to the handlebars.
•
Install:
Clutch Lever Assembly (see Clutch Lever Installation in the Clutch chapter)
Engine Stop Switch (see Engine Stop Switch Installation in the Electrical System chapter)
Bands
Handlebars
•
Apply grease to the throttle cable upper end and clutch cable upper end.
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the edge (slash area [A]) of the handlebars.
•
Install the throttle grip assembly so that the grip [A] is in as far as it will go.
○
Position the throttle grip assembly [B] so that the punch mark [C] on the handlebars is on the extension of the parting line of the throttle grip assembly.
•
Install the front master cylinder [D] (see Front Master
Cylinder Installation in the Brakes chapter).
•
Insert the fuel tank breather hose into the hole of the steering shaft.
•
Install the handlebars [A] on the steering stem head as follows.
○
Install the handlebars and the handlebar holders [B] so that the arrow marks [C] on the handlebar holders point at the front.
○
Align the punch mark [D] on the handlebars with a gap at rear of the handlebar holder.
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the thread of the handlebar holder bolts.
•
Tighten the front handlebar holder bolts [E] first and then the rear ones [F]. If the handlebar holders are correctly installed, there will be no gap at the front and a gap [G] at the rear after tightening.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Handlebar Holder Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Install:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Installation in the
Frame chapter)
•
Check the front brake for the proper brake effect, or no brake drag.
Handlebar Height Adjustment
The handlebar height can be adjusted in the two positions
(5 mm (0.2 in.) or 10 mm (0.4 in.) higher than standard setting).
STEERING 13-11
13-12 STEERING
Handlebars
•
Remove:
Handlebars (see Handlebar Removal)
Handlebar Holder Nuts [A] and Washers
Handlebar Holders [B]
•
Select the handlebar height as follows.
[A] 5 mm (0.2 in.) Higher than Standard Setting
[B] 10 mm (0.4 in.) Higher than Standard Setting
○
Install the collars [C] between the handlebar holders [D] and steering stem head [E].
•
Replace the handlebar holder nuts with new ones.
•
Install the handlebar holders, the handlebar holder nuts and washers.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Handlebar Holder Nuts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
•
Install the handlebars (see Handlebar Installation).
Handlebar Position Adjustment
To suit various riding positions, the handlebar position can be adjusted by turning the handlebar holders around.
•
Remove:
Handlebars (see Handlebar Removal)
Handlebar Holder Nuts [A] and Washers
Handlebar Holders [B]
•
Turn the handlebar holders 180°.
•
Put the handlebars on the handlebar holders.
•
Replace the handlebar holder nuts with new ones.
•
Install the handlebar holders, handlebar holder nuts and washers.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Handlebar Holder Nuts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
•
Install the handlebars (see Handlebar Installation).
FRAME 14-1
Frame
Table of Contents
14
14-2 FRAME
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Rear Frame Pipe Nuts
G: Apply grease.
R: Replacement Parts
FRAME 14-3
N·m
34
Torque kgf·m
3.5
ft·lb
25
Remarks
R
14-4 FRAME
Frame
Frame Inspection
•
Refer to the Frame Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Rear Frame Pipe Removal
•
Remove:
Right Side Cover (see Side Cover Removal/Installation)
Bolt [A]
Rear Frame Pipe Bolts [B] and Nuts
Rear Frame Pipe [C]
Rear Frame Pipe Installation
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
○
Replace the rear frame pipe nuts with new ones.
○
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Frame Pipe Nuts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
○
Install the right side cover (see Side Cover Removal/Installation).
Seat
•
Seat Removal
•
Remove the seat bolt [A] on both sides.
Remove the seat [B] rearward [C].
Seat Installation
•
Install the seat.
○
Insert the hooks [A] of the seat [B] under the flange collar
[C] and bracket [D].
○
Take care not to damage the side covers with the bracket of seat.
•
Install the seat bolts on both sides.
•
Pull up the rear end of the seat to make sure it is securely installed.
FRAME 14-5
14-6 FRAME
Side Covers
Side Cover Removal/Installation
•
Remove:
Seat Bolt [A]
Side Cover Bolt [B]
Side Cover [C]
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Shroud
Shroud Removal/Installation
•
Remove:
Bolts [A]
Shroud [B]
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
FRAME 14-7
14-8 FRAME
Number Plate
•
Number Plate Removal
Unlock the clamp [A] of the number plate [B].
•
Remove the number plate mounting bolt [C].
•
Clear the projections [D] and remove the number plate.
Number Plate Installation
•
Install the number plate [A] so that the projections [B] on the front fender [C] fit into the holes [D] in the number plate.
○
Run the brake hose through the front of the number plate.
•
Tighten the number plate mounting bolt.
•
Lock the clamp of the number plate.
Fender
•
Front Fender Removal/Installation
Remove the number plate (see Number Plate Removal).
•
•
Remove the bolts [A] and the front fender [B].
Installation is the reverse of removal.
○
Install the number plate (see Number Plate Installation).
•
Rear Fender Removal/Installation
Remove the side covers (see Side Cover Removal).
•
Remove:
Nuts [A], Washers and Bolts
Bolts [B]
•
Rear Fender [C]
Installation is the reverse of removal.
○
Replace the rear fender mounting nuts with new ones.
Rear Frap Removal/Installation
•
Remove:
Bolts [A] and Collars
Rear Flap [B]
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
FRAME 14-9
14-10 FRAME
Footpegs
Footpeg Removal
•
Remove:
Cotter Pin [A]
Washer [B]
Pivot Pin [C]
Spring [D]
Footpeg [E]
•
Footpeg Installation
Replace the cotter pin with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the pivot pin.
•
Install the footpeg, spring and pivot pin.
○
Insert the pivot pin from upper side.
•
Install the washer and new cotter pin.
•
Bend the longer side [A] of the cotter pin.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-1
Electrical System
Table of Contents
15
15-2 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Spark Plug
2 Stator Coil Plate Mounting Screws
3 Flywheel Nut
R: Replacement Parts
N·m
25.5
5.2
29
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-3
Torque kgf·m
2.60
0.53
3.0
ft·lb
18.8 in·lb
46 in·lb
21
Remarks
15-4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Specifications
Flywheel Magneto
Magneto Output Voltage
Stator Coil Resistance
Item
Ignition System
Ignition Coil:
3 Needle Arcing Distance
Primary Winding Resistance
Secondary Winding Resistance
Primary Peak Voltage
Crankshaft Sensor Resistance
Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage
Spark Plug:
Standard:
Type
Gap
Option:
Type
Gap
Standard
65 V or more at 4 000 r/min (rpm)
282
∼
423 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
7 mm (0.28 in.) or more
0.36
∼
0.48 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
5.4
∼
7.4 kΩ at 20°C (68°F)
150 V or more
408
∼
612 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
4.0 V or more
NGK R6252K-105
0.7
∼
0.8 mm (0.028
∼
0.031 in.)
NGK BR9EVX
0.6
∼
0.7 mm (0.024
∼
0.028 in.)
Special Tools and Sealant
Flywheel Puller, M27 × 1.0: LH:
57001-252
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-5
Flywheel & Pulley Holder:
57001-1605
Liquid Gasket, TB1211:
56019-120
Peak Voltage Adapter:
57001-1415
Needle Adapter Set:
57001-1457
15-6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Wiring Diagram
Precautions
There are numbers of important precautions that are musts when servicing electrical systems. Learn and observe all the rules below.
○
The electrical parts should never be struck sharply, as with a hammer, or allowed to fall on a hard surface. Such a shock to the parts can damage them.
○
To prevent damage to electrical parts, do not disconnect any electrical connections while the engine is running.
○
Troubles may involve one or in some cases all items.
Never replace a defective part without determining what
CAUSED the failure. If the failure was caused by some other item or items, they too must be repaired or replaced, or the new replacement will soon fail again.
○
Make sure all connectors in the circuit are clean and tight, and examine leads for signs of burning, fraying, etc. Poor leads and bad connections will affect electrical system operation.
○
Measure coil and winding resistance when the part is cold
(at room temperature).
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-7
15-8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Electrical Wiring
Wiring Inspection
•
Visually inspect the wiring for signs of burning, fraying, etc.
If any wiring is poor, replace the stator coil.
•
Pull each connector [A] apart and inspect it for corrosion, dirt, and damage.
If the connector is corroded or dirty, clean it carefully. If it is damaged, replace stator coil.
•
Check the wiring for continuity.
○
Use the wiring diagram to find the ends of the lead which is suspected of being a problem.
○
Connect a tester between the ends of the leads.
If the tester does not read about 0 Ω, the lead is defective.
Replace the stator coil if necessary.
Flywheel Magneto
Magneto Cover Removal
•
Free the carburetor overflow hose [A] from the clamp [B] on the magneto cover.
•
Remove:
Magneto Cover Bolts [C]
Magneto Cover [D]
Gasket
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-9
•
Magneto Cover Installation
Replace the gasket with a new one.
•
Install:
Magneto Cover [A]
Magneto Cover Bolts [B]
•
Run the carburetor overflow hose correctly (see Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
Flywheel Magneto Removal
•
Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel
System chapter ).
•
Remove the bolt [A] to disconnect the ground terminal.
•
Remove the bands [A].
•
Disconnect:
Ignition Coil Primary Lead Connector [B]
Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [C]
CDI Unit Lead Connector [D]
•
Open the Clamp [A].
15-10 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Flywheel Magneto
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal)
•
Holding the flywheel with the flywheel & pulley holder [A] and remove the flywheel nut [B].
Special Tool - Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605
•
Screw the flywheel puller [A] into the flywheel by turning it counterclockwise (left-hand thread).
Special Tool - Flywheel Puller, M27 × 1.0: LH: 57001-252
•
Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft by turning in the puller center bolt [B] and tapping the head of the bolt lightly with a hammer, while holding the puller body steady. There is a woodruff key in the crankshaft tapered portion.
NOTICE
Never strike the grab bar or the flywheel itself. Striking the bar can bond it. If the flywheel is struck, the magnets may lose their magnetism.
•
Remove the stator coil plate mounting screws [A], and remove the stator coil plate [B] with crankshaft sensor and the wiring grommet [C].
Flywheel Magneto Installation
•
Install the stator coil plate [A] with crankshaft sensor (see
Flywheel Magneto Adjustment).
Torque - Stator Coil Plate Mounting Screws [B]: 5.2 N·m
(0.53 kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Set the stator wiring grommet [C] securely in the notch in the left crankcase half, and route the wires according to the Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
Flywheel Magneto
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the crankshaft taper [A] and the flywheel taper [B]. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Fit the woodruff key [C] securely in the slot in the crankshaft, and install the flywheel.
•
Holding the flywheel with the flywheel & pulley holder and tighten the flywheel nut to the specified torque.
Special Tool - Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605
Torque - Flywheel Nut: 29 N·m (3.0 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
•
Measure the crankshaft sensor air gap (see Crankshaft
Sensor Air Gap Adjustment).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Run the leads according to the Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
Flywheel Magneto Inspection
•
There are three types of magneto problems: short, open
(wire burned out), or loss in flywheel magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in flywheel magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the flywheel, or just by aging, will result in low output.
Magneto Output Voltage Check
•
Check the magneto output voltage, do the following procedures.
○
Remove the left shroud (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the Frame chapter).
○
Remove the CDI unit [A].
○
Do not disconnect the CDI unit connector [B].
○
Connect the digital meter [C] with the needle adapter set as shown in the table.
○
Start the engine.
WARNING
To avoid a serious burn, never touch the hot expansion chamber or engine during inspection.
○
Run it at the rpm given in the table.
○
Note the voltage readings.
Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
○
After measurement, remove the needle adapters and apply sealant to the seals of the connector for waterproofing.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211: 56019-120
Magneto Output Voltage
Connections
Meter (+) to
BK/W
Meter (–) to
BK/R
at 4 000 r/min (rpm)
Reading
AC65 V or more
If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the magneto operates properly.
If the output voltage shows a much lower reading than that given in the table indicates that the magneto is defective.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-11
15-12 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Flywheel Magneto
•
Stator Coil Check
Check the stator coil resistance as follows.
○
Disconnect the CDI unit lead connector [A].
○
Connect the digital meter [B] as shown in the table.
Stator Coil Resistance at 20 °C (68 °F)
Connections
Meter (+)
BK/W
Meter (–) to
BK/R
Reading
282
∼
423 Ω
If there is more resistance than shown in the table or no meter reading the stator has an open lead and must be replaced. A much lower reading than this resistance means that the stator coil is shorted, and must be replaced.
Ignition Timing
Ignition Timing Adjustment
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal).
•
Check to see if the middle mark [A] of the three-marks on the stator coil plate [B] is aligned with the straight surface
[C] of the projection on the crankcase.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-13
If the marks are not aligned, loosen the stator coil plate mounting screws [A] and turn the stator coil plate [B].
•
The ignition timing can be adjusted to change the power band to suit the rider’s preference or ability.
•
If necessary, adjust the timing by shifting the stator coil plate position within the three-marks [A].
NOTE
○
For best engine performance, it is very important to adjust the ignition timing within the adjustable range just explained.
Crankshaft Rotation [A]
Stator Rotation [B]
Retard [C]
Advance [D]
•
Tighten the stator coil plate mounting screws to the specified torque.
Torque - Stator Coil Plate Mounting Screw: 5.2 N·m (0.53
kgf·m, 46 in·lb)
•
Install the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Installation).
•
Test ride the motorcycle and readjust the ignition timing if necessary.
15-14 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Ignition System
Safety Instructions
WARNING
The ignition system produces extremely high voltage. Do not touch the spark plug, ignition coil or ignition coil lead while the engine is running, or you could receive a severe electrical shock.
•
Crankshaft Sensor Removal/Installation
•
Remove the crankshaft sensor (see Flywheel Magneto
Removal).
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Install the crankshaft sensor so that the air gap (clearance between the flywheel and the crankshaft sensor core) has correct clearance (see Flywheel Magneto Installation).
Crankshaft Sensor Air Gap Adjustment
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal).
•
Loosen the crankshaft sensor screws [A].
•
Insert a 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) thickness gauge [B] between the crankshaft sensor [C] core and the timing plate [D].
•
While pressing the crankshaft sensor toward the magneto flywheel, tighten the crankshaft sensor screws and remove the thickness gauge.
•
Check the air gap.
Crankshaft Sensor Air Gap: 0.4
∼
0.6 mm (0.016
∼
0.024
in.)
If the air gap is not within the specified range, readjust the gap.
Crankshaft Sensor Inspection
•
Remove:
Left Shroud (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the
Frame chapter)
CDI Unit Lead Connector
•
Connect a digital meter [A] to the White/Green and
White/Red leads in the CDI unit connector [B].
Crankshaft Sensor Resistance
W/G
∼
W/R Leads: 408
∼
612 Ω
If there is more resistance than the specified value, the coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the coil is shorted, and must be replaced.
•
Using the digital meter, measure the resistance between the crankshaft sensor leads and chassis ground.
Any digital meter reading less than infinity indicates a short, necessitating replacement of the stator coil plate.
Ignition System
Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Inspection
•
Remove the left shroud (see Shroud Removal/Installation in the Frame chapter).
•
Disconnect the CDI unit lead connector [A].
•
Connect the peak voltage adapter [B] to the digital meter
[C].
•
Connect the black lead of the adapter to White/Green lead and red lead to White/Red lead of the magneto lead adapter.
•
Crank the engine by kicking the pedal several times to measure the peak voltage of the crankshaft sensor.
Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage
Standard: 4.0 V or more
Special Tool - Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415
Type: KEK-54-9-B
WARNING
Electrical equipment can cause serious electrical shock. To avoid being shocked, do not touch the metal portion of the probe when measuring voltage.
If the voltage is less than the specified, check the crankshaft sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Inspection).
Ignition Coil Removal
•
Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel
•
System chapter).
•
Disconnect the primary lead connector [A].
Pull off the spark plug cap [B].
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-15
•
Remove the bolts [A] and ignition coil [B].
15-16 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Ignition System
•
Ignition Coil Installation
Install the ignition coil [A].
•
Tighten the bolts [B] together with the ignition coil ground terminal [C] and CDI unit ground terminal [D].
○
Run the leads correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Install the spark plug cap [A] as shown.
45° [B]
•
Front [C]
Connect the primary lead connector.
•
Pull up the spark plug cap lightly to make sure of the installation of the spark plug cap.
Ignition Coil Inspection
Measuring Arcing Distance
The most accurate test for determining the condition of the ignition coil is made by measuring arcing distance using
• the coil tester for the 3-needle method.
Remove the ignition coil (see Ignition Coil Removal).
•
Measure the arcing distance using the coil tester [A].
•
Connect the ignition coil (with the spark plug cap left installed on the spark plug lead) [B] to the tester and measure the arcing distance.
WARNING
To avoid extremely high voltage shocks, do not touch the coil or lead.
If the distance reading is less than the specified value, the ignition coil or spark plug cap is defective.
3 Needle Arcing Distance
Standard: 7 mm (0.28 in.) or more
•
To determine which part is defective, measure the arcing distance again with the spark plug cap removed from the spark plug lead.
If the arcing distance is subnormal as before, the trouble is with the ignition coil itself. If the arcing distance is now normal, the trouble is with the spark plug cap.
Ignition System
Measuring Coil Resistance
If the arcing tester is not available, the coil can be checked for a broken or badly shorted winding with a digital meter.
However, the digital meter cannot detect layer shorts and shorts resulting from insulation breakdown under high volt-
• age.
Remove the ignition coil (see Ignition Coil Removal).
•
Measure the primary winding resistance [A] as follows.
○
Connect the digital meter between the coil terminals.
•
Measure the secondary winding resistance [B] as follows.
○
Remove the spark plug cap from the spark plug lead.
○
Connect the digital meter between the spark plug lead and the ground lead terminal.
Ignition Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 0.36
∼
0.48 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Secondary Windings: 5.4
∼
7.4 kΩ at 20°C (68°F)
If the digital meter does not read as specified, replace the ignition coil.
If the digital meter reads as specified, the ignition coil windings are probably good. However, if the ignition system still does not perform as it should after all other components have been checked, test replace the coil with one known to be good.
•
Check the spark plug lead for visible damage.
If the spark plug lead is damaged, replace the ignition coil.
Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection
•
Refer to the Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Spark Plug Gap Inspection
•
Refer to the Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-17
15-18 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Ignition System
Ignition Coil Primary Peak Voltage Check
•
Remove the spark plug cap from the spark plug, but do not remove the spark plug.
•
Install the good spark plug [A] to the spark plug cap, then touch the frame with it.
NOTE
○
Measure the voltage with each lead connected correctly.
The correct value may not be obtained if disconnected.
○
Maintain the correct value of compression pressure for the cylinder (Be sure to measure the voltage with the spark plug installed to the cylinder head.).
•
Connect the peak voltage adapter [B] to the digital meter.
Special Tools - Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415
Type: KEK-54-9-B
Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
•
Connect the peak voltage adapter to the ignition coil terminal [C] and ground [D].
Connections:
Peak Voltage
Adapter
Digital
Meter
Terminal (O
Lead)
Ground
←
←
R lead
BK lead
→
→
(+)
(–)
Ignition Coil [E]
CDI Unit [F]
Needle Adapter [G]
•
Shift the gear to the neutral position.
•
Crank the engine by kicking the pedal several times to measure the peak voltage of the ignition coil.
Ignition Coil Primary Peak Voltage
Standard:
150 V or more
WARNING
Electrical equipment can cause serious electrical shock. To avoid being shocked, do not touch the metal portion of the probe when measuring voltage.
If the voltage is less than the specified value, see the
Troubleshooting.
•
Engine Stop Switch System Check
Start the engine.
•
Push the engine stop switch [A], stop the engine.
If the engine does not stop, check the engine stop switch for continuity (see Engine Stop Switch Inspection).
If the engine stop switch is good, check the wiring (see
Wiring Inspection).
If the wiring is good, replace the CDI unit.
Ignition System
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-19
15-20 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Switches
Engine Stop Switch Inspection
•
Using a tester, check to see that the connections shown in the table have continuity (about zero ohms).
If the switch has an open or short, replace it with a new one.
Engine Stop Switch Connection
APPENDIX 16-1
Appendix
Table of Contents
16
16-2 APPENDIX
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Throttle Cable
2. Clutch Cable
3. Engine Stop Switch
4. Engine Stop Switch Lead
5. Bands (Hold the engine stop switch lead.)
6. Steering Stem Head Bracket
7. Run the engine stop switch lead to the left side of the steering stem head bracket.
8. Clamp
9. Front Brake Hose (Run the front brake hose to the outside of the number plate.)
10. Run the clutch cable to the inside of the number plate.
Run the clutch cable to the right side of the steering stem head bracket.
11. Run the throttle cable to the inside of the number plate.
Run the throttle cable to the left side of the steering stem head bracket.
Run the throttle cable to the outside of the engine stop switch lead.
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
APPENDIX 16-3
1. Band (Hold the throttle cable to the lower side of the frame, and front side of the damper.)
2. Damper
3. Throttle Cable
4. Engine Stop Switch Lead
5. Clamp (Hold the throttle cable and engine stop switch lead.)
6. Radiator Mounting Bolts
7. Clamp (Hold the clutch cable.)
8. Clutch Cable
9. Run the clutch cable between the radiator mounting bolts.
16-4 APPENDIX
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
APPENDIX 16-5
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. CDI Unit
2. Band (Hold the throttle cable to the lower side of the frame, and front side of the damper.)
3. Engine Stop Switch Lead Connector
4. Radiator Overflow Hose
5. Primary Lead Connector
6. Band (Hold the primary lead to the lower side of the frame.)
7. Dampers
8. Band (Hold the CDI unit lead to the upper side of the frame.)
9. Band (Hold the CDI unit lead to the lower side of the frame.)
10. Spark Plug Cap
11. Throttle Cable
12. Ignition Coil Ground
13. Ignition Coil
14. Ignition Coil Lead
15. CDI Unit Ground
16. Viewed A
17. 45°
16-6 APPENDIX
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
APPENDIX 16-7
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Air Vent Hose
2. Do not cross the air vent hose and magneto lead.
3. Magneto Lead
4. Install the fuel hose so that paint mark faces right side.
5. Fuel Hose
6. Run the fuel hose to the outside of the air vent hose.
7. Viewed A
8. Clamp (Hold the magneto lead.)
9. Hold the carburetor overflow hose to the clamp on the magneto cover.
10. Carburetor Overflow Hose
11. Clamp (Hold the air vent hoses and carburetor overflow hose.)
12. Breather Hose
13. Run the carburetor overflow hoses, air vent hose and breather hose to the outside of the tie-rod.
14. Tie-Rod
16-8 APPENDIX
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
APPENDIX 16-9
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Radiator Overflow Hose
2. Run the radiator overflow hose and breather hose between the engine brackets.
3. Band (Hold the radiator overflow hose and breather hose to the frame.)
4. Frame
5. Breather Hose
6. Run the radiator overflow hose between the engine brackets.
7. Install the water hoses so that paint mark faces right side.
8. Viewed A
9. Cylinder
10. Viewed B
11. Do not bend tightly the radiator overflow hose.
16-10 APPENDIX
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Touch the front brake hose fitting to the stopper.
2. Brake Hose
3. Clamp
4. Clamps
5. Viewed A
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
APPENDIX 16-11
1. Touch the rear brake hose fitting to the stopper.
2. Brake Hose
3. Clamps
4. Cotter Pin
16-12 APPENDIX
Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE
○
This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.
Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting
Difficulty:
Engine won’t turn over:
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Kick shaft return spring broken
Kick ratchet gear not engaging
No fuel flow:
No fuel in tank
Fuel tap turned off
Tank cap air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Float valve clogged
Engine flooded:
Fuel level too high
Float valve worn or stuck open
Starting technique faulty
(when flooded, kick with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine.)
No spark; spark weak:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect heat value
CDI unit trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Ignition coil resistor open
Flywheel magneto damaged
Wiring shorted or open
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted
Slow jet or air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Starter jet clogged
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Cylinder base gasket damaged
Read valve damaged
Cylinder nut loose
Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or ignition coil lead trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect heat value
CDI unit trouble
Crankshaft sensor broken or maladjusted
Ignition coil trouble
Flywheel magneto damaged
Ignition coil lead or CDI unit lead not in good contact
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted
Slow jet or air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Choke plunger stuck open
Fuel level too high or too low
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Crankshaft oil seal deteriorated or damaged
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Cylinder base gasket damaged
Reed valve damaged
Cylinder nut loose
KIPS ports stuck open:
KIPS exhaust valve stuck open (valve seizure, or carbon accumulation)
KIPS exhaust valves assembled incorrectly
Exhaust advancer spring damaged
Exhaust valve operating rod seizure
Rod (for KIPS) seized in cylinder
APPENDIX 16-13
Troubleshooting Guide
Other:
CDI unit trouble
Transmission oil viscosity too high
Brake dragging
Drive train trouble
Engine overheating
Clutch slipping
Poor Running or No Power at High
Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or ignition coil lead damaged
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect heat value
CDI unit trouble
Crankshaft sensor broken or maladjusted
Ignition coil trouble
Flywheel magneto damaged
Ignition coil lead or CDI unit lead not in good contact
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Jet needle or needle jet worn
Jet needle clip in wrong position
Fuel level too high or too low
Slow jet or air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Choke plunger stuck open
Crankshaft oil seal deteriorated or damaged
Fuel to carburetor insufficient
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Cylinder base gasket damaged
Reed valve damaged
Cylinder nut loose
Engine rpm will not rise properly:
Choke plunger stuck open
Fuel level too high or too low
Main jet clogged
Throttle valve does not fully open
Air cleaner clogged
Muffler clogged
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Cylinder exhaust port clogged
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Transmission oil level too high
Transmission oil viscosity too high
Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged
KIPS ports stuck closed:
KIPS exhaust valves stuck closed (valve seizure, or carbon accumulation)
KIPS exhaust valves assembled incorrectly
KIPS ports clogged (carbon accumulation)
Exhaust valve operating rod seizure
Rod (for KIPS) seized in cylinder
Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect heat value
CDI unit trouble
Ignition timing maladjusted
Overheating:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
CDI unit trouble
Ignition timing maladjusted
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Transmission oil level too high
Transmission oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Lubrication inadequate:
Transmission oil level too low
Transmission oil poor quality or incorrect
Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Cooling system component incorrect:
Radiator clogged
Radiator cap trouble
16-14 APPENDIX
Troubleshooting Guide
Water pump not rotating
Water pump impeller damaged
Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
No clutch lever play
Clutch cable maladjusted
Clutch inner cable catching
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch plate warped or rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Transmission oil deteriorated
Transmission viscosity too high
Transmission oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch housing seized
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub nut loose
Friction plates installed incorrectly
Clutch hub spline damaged
Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent worn, or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Gear positioning lever binding
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Gear seized
Gear positioning lever operation trouble
Shift drum broken
Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
Overshifts:
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
Ignition timing maladjusted
CDI unit trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating
Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn
Other noise:
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken or stuck
Piston seizure or damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Expansion chamber leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mounts loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Magneto flywheel loose
Abnormal Drive Train Noise
Clutch noise:
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear/primary gear backlash excessive
Metal chip jammed in clutch housing gear teeth
Transmission noise:
Crankcase bearing worn or damaged
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Metal chip jammed in gear teeth
Transmission oil insufficient or too thin
Kick ratchet gear not properly disengaging from kick gear
Kick shaft idle gear worn or chipped
Drive chain noise:
Drive chain maladjusted
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket(s) worn
Drive chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise:
Shock absorber damaged
Spring weak or broken
APPENDIX 16-15
Troubleshooting Guide
Disc brake noise:
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble
Master cylinder damaged
Other noise
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc.
not properly mounted or tightened
Exhaust Smoke:
Excessive white smoke:
Throttle cable maladjusted
Crankshaft oil seal damaged
Brownish smoke:
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner clogged
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
Main jet too large of fallen out
Choke plunger stuck open
Fuel level too high
Handling and/or Stability
Unsatisfactory:
Handlebars hard to turn:
Cable, hose, lead routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebars shakes or excessively vibrates:
Tire worn
Swingarm sleeve or needle bearing damaged
Rim warped, or not balanced
Spokes loose
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar holder bolt loose
Handlebar holder loose
Steering stem head nut loose
Handlebars pulls to one side:
Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
Steering maladjusted
Steering stem bent
Front fork bent
Right/left front fork oil level uneven
Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Front fork bent
Tire air pressure too high
Rear shock absorber maladjusted
(Too soft)
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil or gas leaking
Rear shock absorber maladjusted
Tire air pressure too low
Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Disc brake:
Air in the brake line
Pad, disc worn
Brake fluid leak
Disc warped
Contaminated pads
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged
Master cylinder scratched inside
Year
2014
2014
2014
MODEL APPLICATION
Model
KX85CE
KX85DE
KX100FE
Beginning Frame No.
JKBKXFCC
□
EA000001
JKBKX085CCA000001
JKBKXFDC
□
EA000001
JKBKX085DDA000001
JKAKXTFC
□
EA000001
□
:This digit in the frame number changes from one machine to another.
Part No.99924-1470-01
Printed in Japan
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Key Features
- Liquid-cooled 2-stroke engine
- KIPS power valve system
- 6-speed transmission
- Adjustable suspension
- Lightweight design
- Motocross-specific design
- Durable frame
