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- LC44
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- 38 Pages
Brut LC44 Service manual
Brut LC44 is a high-performance snowmobile that combines power and agility to provide an exhilarating riding experience. With its user-friendly features and versatile design, the Brut LC44 is the perfect choice for both novice and experienced riders.
Here are just a few of the things you can do with your Brut LC44:
- Tackle challenging terrain with ease thanks to its powerful engine and rugged construction.
- Enjoy a smooth and comfortable ride, even on rough trails, with its advanced suspension system.
- Stay in control in all conditions with its responsive handling and reliable braking system.
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.OIDIIOIIIE
IIAnUAI
294 QUICK SERVICE CHART
SET UP PROCEDURE
TROUBLE SHOOTING THE TWO
CYCLE ENGINE
DR IVE BELT PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
1973 BRUT SNOWMOBILE
BRUT'S LIQUID COOLED ENGINE
BRUT SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE TIMING
BRUT SERVICE TOOL
USTING
BRUT SNOWMOBILE CUTAWAY
1972 LC44 ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC
1973-74 LC29 ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC
1973 LC44 1974502 ELEClRICAL SCHEMATIC
SUSPENSION
DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL
I NVOLUTE DRIVE SPROCKET REMOVAL
CLUTCH REMOVAL
DRIVE INSTALLATION
BRAKEINSTALLATMlM
SUSPENSION INSTALLATION
ENGINE REMOVAL
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
PISTON RING INSTALLATION
THROTTLE LINKAGE ADAJSTMENT
12
13
14
15
15
16
16
16
17
17
18
20
22
25
28
2
3
8
10
10
11
11
CHOKE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
28
STEERING ADJUSTMENT AND SKI ALIGNMENT
28
ENGINE TIMING
28
SERVICING DRIVEN CLUTCH
28
SERVICING DRIVE CLUTCH
28
SKAG REPLACEMENT
29
HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT
29
HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT
29
TAILIGHT-BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT
29
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
29
DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT
29
CLUTCH ALIGNMENT
30
RIDE ADJUSTMENT
30
SPR ING TENSION
30
SHOCK TENSION
30
DRIVEN CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
30
TRACK ADJUSTMENT AND ALIGNMENT
31
DRIVE CHAIN ADJUSTMENT
31
COOLING SYSTEM
32
LUBRICATION
32
FUEL MIXTURE
32
GASOLINE
32
OIL
FUEL MIXING RATIO
32
32
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
DEALER WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
32
34
P age l
LC 29 QUICK SERVICE CHART
Clutch Offset
Center to Center of Clutch
P roper Belt
Po in t Settin
T im i ng
Pl ug Gap
Carburetor Adjustment
Id le Speed
Spar k Plug
1 / 2 "
F ixe d
Br uta nza Belt # 13126 or # 1 3126·14
~
...
.
012" .
017"
3.5 mm or
.
138 " B .
T .
D .
C.
M U S T BE COM PLETED A T FUll SPARK
ADVANC E
.020
H igh 1 turn
Lo w
' · 1 / 8
turn
1500 -2 000 RPM
Standard B 7ES NGK
Replacement N3 Or N3G Champion
H ar d running BBE S NGK o r N 2G Champion
,
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NUT SIZE
5 / 8 C l utch
10 mm
12 mm
14mm
F lywhee l
BOLT TORQUE S PE C I FIC AT IONS
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TORQUE
35 ft .l
b s.
60 in .
Ibs .
1 8 ft .
l bs .
25 ft .
Ibs .
60 ft .
Ibs .
Ski Adjustment 1 / 4" toe out
Oil use a
B.I.A
. endorsed oil w i th T,C.W. specs .
ST wi ll so state o n the can . M i x accor d ing to oil manufacturers dir ec t i on s.
Gas U se a good grade of leaded fu e l from a statio n that moves a l o t of gas ( gasol i ne that s et s dormant can lo se up to 50% o f the oc t ane in a 30 day pe r iod.)
Una-ate the liquid cooled BRUT snowmobile. Be cautious that the upholstery is not tom or the finish on the cowl scratched.
2. Check all parts for shortages.
If there should happen to be a shortage on some
~ file a warranty claim within 10 days to receiwe credit for any parts which you use from yourown
~
3. Install springs in suspellsion, set suspension shock and install suspension in c:ha!iIsis.
4. Align trade. Refer to
Semce
Manual page -;..
"fl}
i
5. Install skis and sb!eIiI. post and adjust toe out to
~".
6. Check coolant IewL This
~ neck on surge 1ank.
7. Check chain c:aIe oil
Ina and chain tension.
S. Check belt aIigi.ueilt.
'The offset should be
W'.
9. Check brake and 1hrottIe operation. Adjust if f F cable for adjustment and y.
10.
Inspect choice .......
11. Install windshield.
1 2. Prepare to surt engine..
It is advisable to have a squ itt bottle handy when
SIaftiI. a new engine. Remove drive belt, pour about one bIbIespoon of oil through the carburetor intAlke of eKh cyfnder, pull the starter rope a couple of times to distrhJle oil in engine. Give engine a small amount of gas oil mixture from squirt bottle. Make sure kill and button and . . switI:h are on, pull choke out pull th~ me engine does not start in one or two pulls, add a little mere gas oil mix.
13. After engine starts, set the idle adjustment also the idle speed.
14.
Run engine a few minutes at slow RPM to clear out excess fuel and oil. Shut engine off.
15.
Install drive belt, raise rear of machine , check for clutch operation and track alignment .
16 . Check high low beam on head light also tail and brake lights.
17.
Set high speed adjustment on carburetor.
18.
Machine should be cleaned up before delivery to cus· tomer.
19 .
Be sure warranty registration is filed with in
10 days of date of sale. Th i s is a Federal Law on all motorized vehicles. BRUTANZA ENGINEERING reserves the right to reject all warranty on machines not registered within proper time l
20 . Steps 1 thru 19 should be repeated again after about 10 hours or
100 miles of driving .
A couple of hours well spent on pre·delivery and a check up can save you, the dealer, many hours ' of work and many dollars in the course of the winter. It will also make for a very good relationship with your customer .
Page 2
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D . SPARK TEST
IF
There is no spark or the spark "tracks" up the nose
No spark with new plug
SPARK PLUG CONDITION
IF
The plug shows excessive heat:
BIis1ered
Nose
Melted Electrodes
Aluminum or lead
"Beading"
"Bridged" Electrodes
TROUBLESHOOTING - CONTINUED
Connect the plug to its wire, rest plug shell against head; crank the engine.
THEN
Try the same test with a new plug.
Go on to STAGE II, ELECTRICAL.
STAGE 1\
Check the firing end for unusual deposits and conditions.
THEN
Check the carburetor for lean settings and if OK, go on to other checks for overheating.
The cylinder pressure is above
150 p.s.i .•
SPARK GAP TEST
IF
The ignition system produces less than 7 mm of spark
The carburetor settings may be too rich
OR, the air supply to the car· buretor may be choked
OR, the exhaust system may be overly restrictive.
Use a conventional spark plug hole gauge. Crank the engine until the gauge will go no higher .
Remove the cylinder and examine the:
Cylinder head
Piston
Piston rings
Cylinder
Check for proper tolerances.
Check for unauthorized modification.
Connect a spark gap tester - start the engine.
THEN
Proceed with the next step.
Page 4
TR OU BLE S H OO T ING - CON TI NU E D
D .
IGNITION TIM I NG CHECK
I F
You f in d loose
Of improper wire conneclions
The contact points do not open and close properly
When the points are physica ll y open and you do not get a norma l point checker resistance reading
IF
The ignition timing is excessively advanced
The timing i s excessively retarded
E .
STROBE LIGHT TEST l!'
A machine with cent rif ugal advance mechanism does not go to fun advance
The strobe l ig ht indicates that the malks
"st ray " from alignment 1 / 4" or mOle
Q!! there a re random flashes in addition to normal ignition
Page 5
Follow the normal ignition timing prOC«fures using a dial gauge and point checker.
T H EN
Clean connections and reconnect properly.
Clean until they do .
The poinu may be "grounded" or
"open" permanently (rep l ace or repair).
OR, the primary coil is open or the windings are not insulated
(replace).
THEN
The engine will run hot and maybe detonate (adjust as necessary).
The engine will not produce no r mal honepower (adjust IS neces·
"'V).
S tart tile engine with a strobe
(tim ing) light connected and watch the marks provided on the flywheel and backing plate. Rev the engine slowly through the rpm range .
T HEN
Performance will be poor. (Re· move the flywheel and clean and lube the automatic advance.)
Poor performance and overheating will result (note any obvious crankshaft deflection and go on to S TAGE
III,
CRANKSHAFT
DEFLECTION) .
TROUBLESHOOTING - CONTINUE,D
IF
You find dirt or bits of metal
There is a flaw in either diaphragm or the check valve sheet
The fuel inlet valve
(needle and seat) is damaged
The mounting flange is warped
B.
MUFFLER INSPECTION
IF
It appean to be clogged with deposits
You can hear loose metal pieces or silencing material when you shake the muffler
C. CRANKCASE PRESSURE CHECK
STAGE III
Remove, disassemble and inspect the carburetor.
The carburetor will cause engine flooding (wash clean).
The carburetor may not deliver enough fuel and the engine will run hot or perhaps will not start at all (replace damaged parts).
The fuel will not be controlled and the engine will be flooded.
Air will leak into the intake port and cause a lean mixture
(surface grind the flange).
Remove the muffler.
The engine will not produce normal horsepower and may over· heat (clean out the muffler).
The engine will not produce nor· mal horsepower and may overheat
(replace or repair the muffler).
The pressure leaks at a rate greater than llb./min.
Seal the intake and exhaust ports and connect a pressure checking device. Pressurize the engine to 10 p .
s.i.
The air/fuel mixture will become lean enough to be noticed as a
"hot" plug reading. The machine will suffer from short plug life.
The air/fuel mixture may become lean enough to cause preignition, detonation, and perhaps melting of the piston crown .
Page 6
CHECK
NOTE: flection can be either bearing freeplay (the end will move up and down without rotating the crankshaft) or crankshaft m isalignment (the end will
Remove the primary drive unit and the magneto from the ends of the crankshaft. With a magnetic stand, mount the dial gauge and check the deflection on each end.
The crankshaft seals can be stretched to the point that an air leak will occur (this will not be detected by a stati c pressure test). The engine will overheat due to lean mixture.
AND/OR, the ignition contact points can be opened at the improper time. This will cause overheating and poor performance.
I n either case, major engine work is necessary.
Use appropriate instruments to test the:
Condenser Capacity
Condenser Insulation
Secondary Coi I Resistance
Spark Plug Cap Resistance
There will be starting, plug fouling, and performance problems caused by weak spark (or no spark).
(Replace components as necessar y ).
'C'nn'\A,rn DRIVE
BE l!m eREVENTIVE MAIN T ENANCE
n\A'II'Y\"I""il~
Symptoms
c. Rough or scratched pulley surface
Excessive slippage caused by: a. I nsufficient pressure on belt sides
Excessive horsepower for belt and converter
Excessive oil on pulley surfaces d. I nsufficient pre-load on driven spring e. Excessive operation in low gear position a. Excessive slippage
Improper belt angle
Considerable use, belt wearing out
Excessive slippage in driver pulley caused by: a. Locked track
Converter not functioning properly c. Engine idle speed too high a. I die speed too high b. I ncorrect belt or belt length c. I ncorrect drive center
Align pulleys
Replace or tighten engine mount c. Grind or polish pulley(s) a. Check driver pulley for smooth actuation b. Consult dealer c. Check bearing seals and clean pulley surfaces d. Consult 0 perator's Manual e. I nspect converter a. Check driver pulley for smooth actuation b. Grind or polish pulley(s) c. Consult dealer d. Replace belt a. Rotate track by hand until free b. Repair or replace converter c. Reduce engine
RPM a. Reduce engine
RPM b. See Operator's
Manual c. See Operator's
Manual and reduce center distance
Replace bearing
Page 8
6.
7.
9.
Concave worn belt side(s)
Belt disintegration
Belt edge cord broken
Flex cracks between cogs
Sheared cogs, compression section fractured or torn a. Excessive ride-out on driver pulley b. Drive misalignment c. Rough or scratched pulley(s) surface d. Excessive slippage a. Excessive belt speed b. Sheave misalignment causing belt flip-over c. Excessive slippage causing heat build-up in belt
Excessive operation in low gear position a. Pulley misalignment b. Excessive belt speed c. Excessi'le ride-out on driver pu Iley d. I ncorrect belt length a. Pulley misalignment b. I mproper belt installation c. Engagement speed too high a. Considerable use, belt weari ng out b. Bent pulley(s) flange causing belt flutter c. Excessive operation in low gear position d. Extremely low temperature a. I mproper belt installation b. Belt rubqing stationary object c. Idler bearing seized a. Engagement RPM too high b. Belt hanging up in bottom of driven pulley c. Locked track a. Repair or replace driver pulley b. Align pulleys c. G ri nd or pol ish pulleys
&
Repair or replace driver pulley a. Reduce engine RP at high speed b. AI ign sheaves c. I nspect converter d. I nspect converter a. Align pulleys b. Reduce engine RP M c. Repair or replace driver pulley d. See Operator's
Manual a. Align pulleys b. See Operator's
Manual c. Reduce engagement speed a. Replace belt b. Repair or replace pulley c. I nspect converter d. Warm up belt slow ly a. See Operator's
Manu.al b. Check drive components c. Replace bearing a. Reduce engagemen t
RPM b. Belt too short; replace c. Rotate track by hand until free
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SUSPENSION
Remove suspension. To remove suspension remove the four (4) 3/8" locking bolts mounting suspension to chassis.
Plug air bleed hole in gas cap, turn machine on to one side.
Then pull out suspension. 1974 also has locks on front suspension lock bolts.
DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL
To remove drive shaft, the chain case must be removed and the suspension must be removed. On the left side of the machine is a locking collar positioned on the spherical bearing in the flangette. (Photo at right) Loosen allen screw, turn collar opposite way it was installed. Note punch mark in locking hole. Slide collar over shaft, then push shaft into chain case hole and pull out bottom.
Chaincase assembly must be removed be fo re dr i ve shaft can be removed. (Two photos below) R em ove chain case drive elements. Remove chain by remov ing snap ring on upper sprocket and bolt on lower sproc ket . Remove chain tensioner by backing out tightene r b olt.
INTERNAL DRIVE SPROCKET REMOVAL
With drive shaft removed, remove the track drive sprocket .
With long 1/ 4" punch, pound out 5/16" roll pin from shaft. Drive sprocket should slide off. ree ( 3 ) Phillips head screws holding bumper a nd hood e rusi on onto nosepan on left side of machine o nly. e 7 / 16" clutch bolt, then large nut on ad clu tch pu lIer into threads of larg e
• earin g on end of puller will press against a and pull clutch, by tightening puller ary on models equipped with i e C lu tch .
LATION be on flangette side of shaft with eccent ri c po ' on facin g tunnel before installation.
Before in a ili ng chaincas e , be sure snap ring is on shaft. machine lyin g on left side, fit track into tunne . Then push driv eshaft into chaincase hole and hac rough sph erical bearing mounted on the flangette. Holdin g drive sprockets as close to ce nter of tunnel as possible slide chaincase onto dr iv e shaft. Snug chaincase tightly up against tunnel.
S lide top sprocket spacer over spline and install sproc ets and chain. Screw bolt in driveshaft to ho ld chain sprocket on apd center track drive sp rockets.
Slip snap ring on top drive sprocket in chaincase to hold it in position. I nstall chain tightener assembly and tighten chain so there is 1/2" deflection in chain. Jam locking nut on tightener bolt. Check "0" ring seal on chaincase cover and install if O.K. Be careful not to damage jackshaft seal when installing chaincase cover.
Go back to driveshaft inside tunnel and slide lock collar into position next to flangette bearing. Turn collar lock with punch and tighten with socket wrench.
Page 16
BRAKE INSTALLATION
Place inner brake puck in chaincase cover. Install brake disc, then brake assembly. Make sure round end of actuating pin is toward actuating lever. Adjust brake so brake lights operates when brake is applied.
J
With track and driveshaft installed, you can now install suspension. Raise machine rear approximately 3~'' off ground on secure stand. Slide suspension into track. Line up front two (2) mounting bolts, insert and tighten.
Slide a 2"x2" or 2"x4" block under track, positioned just behind second set of front idler wheels. Drop rear of machine down. Push down or up 6n machine rear while holding rear suspension mounting shaft until shaft is in line to insert mounting bolts. Tighten bolts and align suspension. (See page 23 for track adjustment and alignment.)
E NGI E RE OVAL
L oosen linkage swiv e l screws on choke and throttle on the carb next to the cool ant pu mp. Remove choke cable from choke cable bracket. Remove throttle cable at throttle lever next
0 handle
~i p.
Remove two ( 2 ) 1 / 4 " nuts at upper steering bracket. Lift steering post awa y from engine compartment.
Disconnect C O l unit lead to engine. Disconnect the two (2) yellow l ighting wires and black ground wire leading from stator unit. Disconnect spark plug leads.
Page 19
E N G IN E D I SASSEMBLY
Remov e th e 1/ 2 " carb nuts. ext remove th e 8mm exhaust manifold nuts and 8mm bolts in cr a nk case holding on the muffle r . Remove 6mm nuts ho l ding b oth coolant manifo l ds in place, then remove mani fo l d after disconnecting coolant bypass hose.
Remove the three (3) 8mm bolts holding water pump mounting brackets to end cylinder, then remove water pump and brackets. Remove motor mounts on top and bottom of engine .
Remove 10mm cylinder nuts and slide cylinders off pistons. W i th snap ring pliers remove piston pin snap ring . R emove pis t on pin being careful not to apply excessive side pressure to connecting rod .
Remove piston pin bearing and bearing spacers.
Page 20
Page 21
Now you can disassemble crankcase. Remove 18/12 remaining 8mm bolts and two (2) 10mm bolts. With plastic hammer, tap on one half of crankcase, holding the other half. When case separates shaft can be removed.
£NGI NE ASSEMBLY
Page 22
Choose from three (3) thicknesses of gaskets to place under seal plate. If micrometer measures from .091 and up, use .2mm (.008"); if it measures from .081 to .091, use
.3mm (.012); if it measures from .080 and down, use .5mm
(.020"). Install correct gasket and seal plate, bend lock tabs over plate bolts.
S h p p i st o n over connecting rod holding bearing and spacer i n p l ace. Slide piston pin through piston, bearing a n d spa cers, then install remaining . snap ring. On 1973 mod e l s wi th "L" ring pistons, the "L " ring locator p i n mu s t face intake port and on bottom ring the l ocat o r p i n must be between exhaust and transfer port. On 1 972 models with standard p i stons, both l ocato r pins must be between the transfer and the exh a u st port.
PISTON RING INSTALLATION
Expand ring until it just slips over piston. Do not expand any further than necessary to barely clear ring over piston.
Be sure ring is correctly positioned so ring notch slides into ring locating pin correctly. With rings in place, set pistons aside.
After pistons have been installed, bolt on cylinders
Position cylinders so intake port, or carb side, is toward side of crankcase with impulse fittings.
Place wooden block under piston so it sits solid on crankcase. With ring compressor over piston rings, slide cylinder onto piston.
Caution: Ring ends will catch in transfer ports so you must press them with your fingers. Do not force cylinders on!
When rings do not catch, cylinder will slide on with little effort.
With cylinders in place , place inlet coolant manifold on cylinders and torque 6mm nuts to 60 inch Ibs. Then tighten four (4) 10mm nuts securely on base of cylinder.
Caution: Be sure coolant manifold is torqued in place first to properly align cylinders. Place heads on cylinders and install outlet coolant manifold on heads and torque
6mm manifold nuts to 60 inch Ibs. Now torque 8mm head nuts to 17 ft. Ibs. using the following pattern:
6
•
(LC29) Coat breaker cam with thin coat of grease.
Connect timing equipment, light, buzzer or ohm meter to white primary lead, adjust point gap to get correct timing. Point gap should be between
.012 and .017.
Install dust cover next to rotor stator assembly with 6mm screws. On 1972 models, spacer ring must be in place before installing lower belt pulley. With ring in position, install pulley with 6mm screws. Slide "v" belt over pulley and install recoil and spacer ring (1972 only) on crankcase.
Slide outlet water pipe on manifold and torque 6mm nuts to 60 inch I bs.
With brackets mounted on water pump, slide belt over pump pulley and screw brackets onto cylinder with three (3) 8mm bolts. Tighten belt with tightener bracket until you reach
1/2"
deflection in belt.
Install
~ter inlet hose and bypass hose, and tighten clamps.
Fit exhaust gasket on manifold and install muffler with
8mm nuts.
Install the two (2) carbs closest to clutch. Throttle bracket fits under carb nearest clutch. The
1/4"
spacer fits center carb and carb closest to coolant pump.
Install two (2) front engine mounts with four (4) 10mm bolts.
Set engine in chassis and install six (6) 8mm bolts in the two
(2)
7/16"
bolts on front mounts. Set steering post in position and tighten all bolts. Install third carb next to coolant pump.
Install throttle cable on cable bracket. Center bracket on threads using adjusting jam nuts. Slide linkage rods through choke swivels on the two (2) carbs colsest to magneto and loop linkage rod around carb closest to clutch. Replace swivel screw after looping linkage rod over swivel. Mount choke cable on choke cable bracket and tighten securely.
Thread choke and throttle cables through linkage swivel and tighten swivel screw.
:THROTTLE l!
INKAGE ADJUSTMENT
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To set timing, disconnect red wire leading from ignition points to ignition coil on cylinder next to magneto.
Loosen linkage swivel screws on the two carburetors
Connect one lead of an ohmmeter, timing light or closest to clutch. Squeezing the throttle, the I inkage rod timing buzzer on connector leading from points. should move freely inside swivels without activating the
Connect other throttle shafts on these two carbs.
Back out all carburetor idle speed screws away from carb lead to grounding surface on engine. Insert an indicator in spark plug hole nearest magneto. throttle shaft stops. This will synchronize all butterflies
Position stator plate in center of slots. (Note: It is best in closed position. Grasp linkage rod and push it hard enough so first earn butterfly closes completely. The other to set correct. timing with stator in this position. But if timing cannot be adjusted to point gap specs, then two carbs should be closed also. When they are all closed, continue to hold down rod and tighten swivel screws position of stator must be changed.)
Adjust point gap so points open when securely. Move throttle lever to check synchronization of dial indicator reads 3.5mm or .138". all throttle shafts. If synchronized, turn idle speed screws
The cam must be in full advance position. until they just touch shaft stops, then make an additional
3/4 turn on each screw. You must turn them more for proper idle but this should be done with engine running.
To set correct idle speed of 1500 rpm, you must turn idle screws on all carburetors exactly the same amount.
CHOKE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
Make choke adjustments the same as throttle so choke butterflies are all closed when choke cable is pulled.
Then, when choke is pushed in, butterflies should open all
Check point gap with feeler gauge and make sure point gap is within specs of .012" and .017". If not, stator plate must be adjusted accordingly to set proper specs.
When timing is correct on magneto cylinder, next set timing on cylinder next to clutch. Disconnect white lead to coil. Adjust timing by changing point gap only.
If stator plate is moved, flywheel cylinder must be
'nl'\\A,'py, retimed. the way.
SERVICING DRIVEN CLUTCH
STEERING ADJUSTMENT AND SKI ALIGNMENT
Position handle bars so they face straight ahead. Adjust either ski so it is also facing straight ahead. Adjust ski by loosening jam nuts at both ends of tie rod as necessary to align one ski. If you cannot align one ski exactly, you may have to index steering arm at spindle. When handle bars and one ski are ali!J1ed,measure distance from one ski to other at points on front and rear ski spring saddles. There should be 1/4" toe out, that is, front of skis are spread 1/4" farther apart than rear. If you do not have correct toe out,
~="" ,~ loosen jam nuts on tie rod that has not been adjusted and turn whichever way necessary to get 1/4" toe out.
When steering is adjusted, make sure all jam nuts and other nuts and bolts are tight.
Position removed clutch with fixed face down. Rotate moveable sheave approxi mately 35° clockwise and hold steady. Press ramp down to clear key and rotate so key holds ramp down. Remove snap ring, then remove ramp.
Hold firmly to prevent sudden spring release.
Clean and examine all parts. Replace if worn. Slide moveable face onto hub, replace key. Engage spring with anchor point in ramp and anchor point in moveable face. Rotate movable face 1/2 turn or
180
0 counter clockwise after spring tension is taken up. Push stationary ramp down on hub shaft and lock under key. Replace snap ring. Release stationary ramp to seat against snap ring.
LC44 The LC440 engine is equipped with capacitor discharge ignition (COl) and timing is set in the factory at 3.5mm BTDC. in fully advanced position. Timing cannot be adjusted on this system and shou Id never change.
LC29 The LC294 engine is equipped with breaker point magneto ignition system. Timing is factory set a 3.5mm
BTDC in fully advanced position.
SERVICING DRIVE CLUTCH
Disassemble drive clutch by removing large nut and installing clutch puller in clutch. Grab moveable face with cover assembly firmly with one hand and turn puller until clutch comes off.
Holding moveable face of clutch in both hands and puller facing floor, tap puller against a firm object.
It should separate from stationary hub. Remove puller and clutch will come apart.
Inspect clutch arms to make sure they are not sticking. Clean and examine all parts. Replace if worn.
Page 28
SKAG REPLACEMENT
The skag is a wear rod attached to each ski bottom to aid in turning and prevent wear on actual ski blade. Check condition of skag wear often and replace skags when worn down near ski. To replace, remove nut holding skag in place . With a solid bar, bend s'kag outward until bolt is free from its ski hole.
Place a 1" piece of wood between skag and ski blade, just behind front ski bolt. With hammer, tap on wooden block, forcing skag forward until back pops out of slot. With new skag, push front sloped end into front ski slot, with 1" wooden block positioned in front of rear skag bolt. While guiding rear of skag toward rear skag hole by hand, tap on wooden block to drive skag backwards. When skag bolts line up directly with holes, use pry bar to remove wooden block and skag will snap into place. Then replace lock nuts on skag bolts.
HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT
To replace headlight, start by removing wiring plug on back of lens. With fingers, remove wire spring holding lens down. Install new lens by first positioning it, then reinsert wire spring and plug in electrical plug. Replace with dual element,
12-volt GE4454 bulb or equivalent.
HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Four headlight adjustment screws enable you to adjust the beam, up, down and to either side. Adjustments should be made for your particular driving condition. Caution: It is easy to overdrive your headlight at night. Always use common sense and a safe speed at night. Drive especially carefully on unfamiliar land.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
Remove cotter pin on castellated nut (G, page 23) and tighten nut until puck presses against disc and there is about
3/4" brake handle play.
DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT
Removal: Squeeze the brake so brake pressure will hold the stationary sheave of the driven clutch. Grab moveable sheave and rotate backwards, then pull belt down into driven clutch "V". Lift and slide belt off stationary sheave of driven . clutch. When loose from driven unit, remove from drive clutch.
Reminder - driven clutch should be pulled open completely.
Installation: Mount belt on drive clutch. Grab moveable face of driven clutch with both hands on opposite sides of rim diameter and turn moveable face backwards, then push to compress the clutch spring. With clutch completely open, push belt down between sheaves and slide belt over stationary sheave.
Page 29
CLUTCH ALIGNMENT
Offse t from dr iv e to driven clutch is 5/16" with salsbury/ salsb ury and 1 / 2" with the salsbury /brutanza. Adjust by add ing or subtracting wash ers on drive shaft under driven clutc h. To adjust parallel positioning (alignment) of drive and dr iven c l utches , l oosen four
(4) chaincase bolts and rotate cha incase ~ n s l ots until clutches are parallel. Then recheck offset .
R IDE ADJUSTMENT
SPRING TENSION
I ncreas ' ng or decreasing the spring tension by adjusting the eye bo l a e front of the spring will alter the firmness of the suspe
' 0 . hen adjusting spring tension, always have
' ct'on shocks completely released. Shock adjust· come severe machine bottoming. Adjust the eye
. 12
02 inch es of thread shows past the nut for a b o ri der . Incr ease the amount of thread showing for a heav ° erpe son .
Page 30
TRACK ADJUSTMENT AND ALIGNMENT
To work on track, lift rear of machine and set on secure stand, about
4" to
8" off the floor. To make track adjustments:
1.
Loosen rear idler wheel tie down rod (A), allowing the idler wheels to turn freely as adjustments are being made.
2.. Break lock nuts (B) away from adjustment nuts (C) on both sides of suspension, allowing you to move the idler shaft and wheels forward and back for adjustment.
3.
Correct track drop is 1-1/2" away from the slide frame
(D) to inside sliding part of track. Do not pull down on track to get this measurement and make sure that track is free of ice and snow or other weight. Correct tension and alignment should result in an even drop on both sides.
4.
To check track ' alignment, start engine with machine on stand and turn track over slowly. (Caution - do not run track fast when checking alignment, and clear all too l s away from track and suspension areas before start ing engine.) After adjustments have been made, stop m achine and shut off engine. Measure distance from rea r of suspension upright (E) to rear of adjusting nut ( C ) on both sides. Measurements should be equal. If there is misalignment, side of track closest to tunnel must be tightened. If track is already very tight, then adjusting nut on track side farthest from tunnel must be loosened. Adjusting for drop and alignment, you should wind up with correct track tension and alignment. Track should be run after each adjustment to see if corrected .
When track adjustment is correct, tighten rear idler tie-down rod, then tighten locking nut against adjusting nut on both sides of suspension, being careful not to move adjusting nut. After locking all nuts, start engine and check adjustment once more. On track drive lugs, per i odically check point where lugs ride against rail. If one side shows more wear than the other, check track alignment.
DR IVE CHAIN ADJUSTM ENT
A well-adjusted chain has ' l/2" deflection (A) in travel between the two chain case sprockets. Chain tension is adjusted by tightener bolt (B). To adjust chain tension, loosen and back out lock nut (C). With an inch/lb. torque wrench, torque tightener bolt to
10 inch/lb., then back tightener bolt out 1 /2 turn. Turn lock nut in and jam against chain
ease ,
being careful not to further tighten bolt.
When refitting chain case cover, replace lubricating oil.
Add oil through filler plug (0), with check plug (E) removed.
When oil level reaches check plug level, replace plug . .on 1972 models, plug (E) is drain plug only. When refitting chaincase cover, add 1/2 cup oil through filler plug with drain plug in place.
Page 31
COO l!
ING SYSTEM
,JII'I;;;.\'~"'I
Your Brut snowmobile is equipped with an exclusive Brooten liquid-cooled. two-cyCle engine. Your cooling system requires
an Ethylene Glycol-based anti-freeze and comes from the factory mixed
5(}50 with water. This mixture will protect to
-47
0 F. Periodically check coolant with anti-freeze hydrometer.
To check coolant level. run machine enough to warm up.
Coolant level should be approximately
1
%" below top of tank.
Also check system periodically for loose clamps.
Your Brut has two lubrication points. One is the chain case which has an oil bath reservoir for the drive chain. Maintain oil level with No_ 10
"'Ieight nondetergent oil. To check correct oil level. make sure machine is on level surface. Loosen or remove check plug at bottom of chain case. If oil does not appear when removed. open filler plug at top of chain case and add oil until oil appears at check hole.
(For 1973 models only.
See page 23. DRIVE CHAIN
ADJUSTMENT. for 1972 model.)
There is a lube fitting on 51 ide suspension frame near front idler wheel_ Use only Brut Track Suspension Lubricant, which has a low mefting point. This lubricant is not a substitute for no-snow conditions and does not permit your Brut to be run for distances without some moisture or snow for normal slide rail suspension lubrication. Brutanza has available an optional suspension
Wheel kit for marginal snow conditions.
FUEL MIXTURE
Your Brooten engine is a two-cycle, or two-stroke snowmobile engine which requires you to mix lubricating oil with the gasoline. The carburetor draws this gas/oil mixture into the crankcase for the engine to lubricate internal moving parts.
FUEL MIXING RATIO
Mix 20 parts of gasoline to 1 part of oil (a 20: 1 ratio), which is 5 gallons of gas to 1 quart of oil. Too much oil will cause plug fouling, smoking and excessive carbon formation.
Too little oil can cause engine overheating with resulting piston seizure or engine bearing failure.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
Never mix gasoline with oil in your snowmobile's fuel tank! Use a clean container. Fill it about half full of gas. Add oil and shake the mix well. Then add the remaining amount of gas to fill the contaiRer with mixed fuel. When refueling your snowmobile, use a funnel with a fine screen to prevent spilling and entry of dirt and water into the tank. Always reshake the fuel container if it's been sitting around for even a few hours to prevent oil from settling out of gasoline.
Page 32
In warra nty filing clai filled out repa ir. If in g a c ompany gives out just to be eed bac k we get to check on the desperat e l y need the cooperation of o ke ep the BRUT updated and
are
goin g to get tougher on the a e been v ery lax in the past as to i s ye ar th e w arranty claims must be um ed in wi thin 10 days of date of complie d with, you are taking a chance on getting the claim rejected. No claim has been rejected yet for this reason, however if it continues to be a problem, there will be no other choice but to do so.
GROUP CLAIMS
There will be times this year when we will use a group claim. On any group claim , there w i ll be a bulletin issued with a group claim number. If there is no group claim number assigned, refer to samples . Use Regular Warranty Procedure for each unit.
RNOIN • •
INC .
~1~t~:O:"t· f ~'::=:~2~'~'''''uou ,. • .31.
WARRANTV CLAIM
WARRANTY AllOWANCE REQUEST
Dealer ilarne
434 :sJ
HOLD ALL PARTS 60 DAYS AFTER MAILING CLAIM
. 'M'~~:::;;:-""""::" "~ :'~:~"~'::"~:::'~'~:~ ~ '~:' :~':,
]
1 1/1 74
~
- -
---
- -
-
-
Address
-
-- -
- - r:"I"A~IOf'j
DAtI:
21505-11
21518-:10
24704-12
24200-20 rrtJ'ee (3)
21510--10
:'Jeight
~WrT'ODlle.c:or
5/64"
X
5/16 tt
Roll Pin
1/4"
X 20 UNC X
1/4" Pan Head Screw of each of above
=
Three grams each weight.
Yellow
5
I/,2 coil .175 wire sprinP-: 3 1/2" to
3 3/4"
Length
Pert
'21300-14
1
21SOC=..r-ll ~''eight
1 21518-- 10
SOOe
1 24704--a12
5/64"
X
5/16"
Roll Pin
1
24200-
21
1/4"
X
20 unc
X 1/2"
Pan
Head
Scret~r
3
24250-14 1/4" X .026 X 1/2" OD 'Plat i.rasher
. 'Ihree (3)
2151~1l of each of above =
6
1/2 gra"llS per weight
Orange
5 coil .192 "{lure spring
3" to 3 1/4" Length
Same as u=44 with exception each t"reight to have four (4) 24250-14
1/4 n
X .026 X
1/2" on
Flat Hasher.
TP..is will equal
7 grams per lIJetght.
This clutch should be set to engage at 3800 to
4000 of
7500 to
7700.
RPM and have a shift pattern
Higher ~
PR'·1 at the start of movement. _,.. ..
""1 .....
Lo'~r engap}~ite!lt will mean lower
RPf1 at the start of movement.
The l~h spr1ng mainly controls the engagement
BP~1.
The size of wire and number of coils will determine the amount of ~Teight you need to shift the clutch at a given
~-!.
Note pasi t10n of
IIm'ks on cover and stationary before disassembli.l1p-" clutch.
Note ~-osltlon of marks on !!lOveable face and stationary face ~rhen cover is not yet a.esed:)led. r:h1s
1s the neutral position of the spring. Hhen the cover is placed on tt~ moveable face, note the position of the cover wark in relation to the Iroveat1e ~.rk.
Eefore comnressIDp- spring and installing assembly nut, rotate the clutch rover back arrl forth notirur the anproximate1y 1/2" free movement possiblE
Leave the cover in the counterc1ockl~ise position of this movement. This positions the
~ of the IroveabJ.e 2!!8.inst the helix raI'l1Ps of the cover. At this point, note the I!2-Tic en the cover and the
Inarl{ on the stationary. These two marks must be in tbis oosl tion a.-rter the clutch 1s assembled. If
100 sP..L~
Rf!I is an increase of approximately desired, move the cover mark an additional 1/2" clockwise of the static point of the stationary marie.
DO NOT EXCEED 1/2 INCH.
DRIVE CLtJrCH SET UP
~ ~ ~ .
!)I~ ~ ::~ .
.... s
100
!,PH
is desired
~
move the cover mark an additional
a
tic
po
int of the stationary
m.ar!
{ .
DO NOT EXCEED
_ -:-~ _ ,.. .
:ire a nd.
amount
o.f
coils will determine the amount of
rota
t
ing
the cover a given distance.
AJ · ¥
PFESSUP~
BE PUT ON THE SPHING BY ROTATING!
3 .
4 .
5 . be
thrown off.
shaf
t not letting clutc
.
h shift into hi
$?;
h gear.
~~t ramr
towers on moveable
and p
revent return to neutral.
,. to
the point
't'l
here considerable dama
g
e
may
result.
SC
re
'tl-T
S In
Arms
J
~he r
on each arm
HI
ll lo
w
er t
h
e shift ra.np:e
R'P r~
b
y
50
-
-
( l) H
asher will raise the shift range by
50 _. 200
RP ~/f.
,."'""",.,..,,.,.,
. asher
s
"'
rill not change the
e~agement R P ~ · ~ .
- u.J
ON CLUI'CH.
The main reason for this is to insure that
s:ay
in a
p
roper
p
osition. The screws on the
'tJ
Tei
p:
ht
arm
___ ~ . lockt
ite or punched in to insure they they do not
come out. seize o
r lock up for
an y l.
' ea s.() n . t.
he
' <~ 1 u te h sho u1rl b e d i s m antled lVe ~ en th e a.
r "m..
~ .
rutanza clutch on the LC 29 Brut i t is se the driven clutch at 15# pull. This
~~~~u ish ed by using a 7 coil spring
&
wrapping easure the pull exactly follow the e ( engine) clutch bolt betw een sheaves on driven e bolt so the sheaves can rotate not to jam thr~ads into shaft)
1 vise grip pliers. Clamp a 24" piece outer lip of the driven clutch. as close to the engine head as re pointing to the rear of machine.) the end of your piece of wire. (you se a fish scale that reads to aprox. al e to wire. rear of the clutch. Pull on the up the moveable sheave. {move i t off the pressure easy so you do eable sheave to hard.
°th one hand, the scale in the other e scale slowly watching the scale a reading when the sheave first moves} ed from 3/8" to
!Z" let the pressure e_ slowly until the sheave starts r O inal position. Take your next
: ~ad 1Dg _~~ _ ~~e starts to move. Do this several
.
2 read ings each time. You should e pull of 18 - 19 lbs. and on
~~ u , g of 11.5 - 14 lbs. or an average ease of lSlbs.
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