Closet Maid MASTERSUITE Installer's Assembly, Installation & Reference Manual

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INSTALLER'S

ASSEMBLY, INSTALLATION

&

REFERENCE GUIDE

INTRODUCTION

Introduction to Laminate Installation

Master Tool List

Installation Order

Hint, Tips & Ordering

Assembly Templates

Working with Different Wall Types

Problem Closets

Breakouts

Average Installation Times

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Stand Alone Tower

Tower System

Hanging System

Corner Tower

Angled Wall Tower

Curved Wall

Single & Double-Wide Hutch

Toe Kick

Top Shelf and Pole

DRAWER AND DOOR ASSEMBLY

Drawer

Hamper Door

Tower Door

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Crown Molding

Basket

Telescopic Valet Rod

Tie and Belt Rack

Shoe Fence

Island

Bench

MULTISUITE ASSEMBLY

MultiSuite Cabinet

MultiSuite Drawer

MultiSuite Door

MultiSuite Counter & Slot Wall

5-7

8-9

12-14

16-17

18-20

21-24

25-28

29-30

31-33

34-37

39-42

44-47

48-49

50-51

52-53

54-57

58-59

63-65

66-67

68-71

72-74

75-76

77-78

1. INTRODUCTION

Introduction to Laminate Installation

® products can be completed quickly, efficiently and accurately by a well-trained, quality-minded installer. This manual provides basic assembly instructions for system components and accessories. It is not, however, a substitute for hands-on training.

We recommend working side-by-side with an experienced laminate installer to “learn the ropes.”

Between two and four days of hands-on installation training is required. During this time your new installer can ride along with an experienced laminate installer assisting with many of the installations. The speed at which any new installer may pick up the necessary skills to complete laminate installation on his/her own depends upon the installer’s aptitude, organizational and carpentry skills.

We strongly recommend that training should take place at our training facility where 100% of your installer’s time is dedicated to learning professional installation skills without distractions; and our facilities provide a safe environment in which to practice skills and (occasionally) make mistakes.

What about installers trained in wire closet installation or other home products?

Laminate closet systems can be installed by wire installers. However, the product is installed quite differently than wire systems, so the wire installer would need training in this product in order to accurately install MasterSuite ® . Secondly, if you have an existing installer working full-time installing other products, please consider hiring a dedicated laminate installer. More often than not, the wire installer’s time is completely booked already and does not have time for additional training or installing a new product line.

The time required to install one laminate closet versus one wire closet is usually significantly longer. This is due to several factors. First, laminate closet designs are usually more complex than basic wire designs. The design complexity leads to large quantities of materials, which directly translates into greater weight. Therefore, it’s going to take the installer longer to unload the product and bring it to the installation site.

Installation of laminate closet systems is not unlike installation of kitchen and bathroom cabinetry.

It requires considerable skill in working with a multitude of power tools, wall types and fasteners.

Most walls, even in new construction, are not perfectly plumb or square, necessitating the installer to make on-the-spot technical decisions to complete the installation.

Lastly, successful installation of MasterSuite ® includes careful planning and execution of installation schedules. In the section, "Average Installation Time", we have provided rough time estimates to complete many installation tasks. Basic reach-in closets may only take 20-30 minutes for installation. But complex walk-in closets with many towers, upgrades and an island may take

4-6 hours for completion.

Questions in the shop or onsite regarding laminate installation should be directed to your

ClosetMaid Regional Manager.

1. INTRODUCTION

Master Tool List

M asterSuite ® requires a host of carpentry tools. If you also install wire or other products, we highly recommend that upon launching your MasterSuite ® program you outfit your installation trucks with a separate area and/or toolbox for installation of laminate material. Considerable time can be saved when you have the right tools at hand. If an essential tool is left behind at the shop, you lose valuable time when your installer has to drive back and forth to pick up the forgotten item. If necessary, prepare checklists for the installers to use before they leave the shop to ensure they have all the appropriate tools in the truck.

Below is a recommended list of the high quality tools needed for completing installation of MasterSuite ® systems. (Note: Not all tools will be needed for every installation!) Whenever possible use cordless, battery-operated power tools. Inexpensive or poor quality tools may result in longer installation times and significantly diminish the quality of your installation. Invest in quality tools.

Tool Suggested Mfr. Description

Floor Mounted MasterSuite ® Systems

Tape Measure

Tool Box

Stanley

Stanley 12’ Power Lock Tape Measurer (installing)

Stanley

Electric Drill Makita

Screw/Drill Bits:

25’ Fat Med. Tape Measurer (estimating)

Mobile Tool Chest

12 Volt 3/8” Cordless Driver- Drill Kit

#2 Phillips Screw Bit

DeWalt #8 Countersink

Screwdrivers Work Force

Circular Saw

Dovetail Saw Jack

Mitre Saw

Saw Horses Work Force

3” or 6” Magnetic Bit Tip Holder

5mm or 3/16” High Speed (steel or titanium)

5mm Self-Centering Drill Bit (#05-11619)

1/16" Drill Bit

4 in 1 Screwdriver

Circular Saw w/Carbide Tip Blade

10” Reversible Dovetail Saw

10” (for Crown Molding)

Saw Horses (set of 2)

Vacuum

Tablesaw

Hammer

Levels:

Square

Shop Vac

Ridge

EstWing

Johnson

MB Johnson

Empire

Step Ladder Warner

Clamps Quick Grip

Stud Finder Black & Decker

Utility Knife

Wrench

Stanley

Crescent

Plyers

File

Groove Plyers

Nicholson

File Handle Nicholson

Putty Knife Hyde

Edge Roller Hyde

Hacksaw Stanley

Chisel

Hettich Tool

Buck Brothers

Hettich

Templates ClosetMaid

10 Gallon- 6.25 HP Vacuum

10” Tablesaw with Base

20 oz. Rip Hammer

24 & 48” Box Section Level

9” Torpedo

16” x 24” Framing Square

Step Ladder

6” Bar Clamp/Spreader

Bulls Eye Studfinder

Classic 99

10” Adjustable Wrench

10” Channel Lock

8” Half Round Bastard File

File Handle & Inserts

Scraper

Wallpaper Seam Roller

High Tension Hacksaw

1” Wood Chisel

Cam tool

Assorted

Rail Mounted Systems – Closet and MultiSuite (Tools above plus:)

Electric Drill: DeWalt

Screw/Drill Bits

Router Porter Cable

Cutting Bit Old Hampton

18 Volt Right Angle Drill Kit

5/16” Nut Driver (or Setter)

1/2“ Speed Bore

1 1/2 HP Router

1/2” Radius Roundover 2 flt.

Qty.

INTRODUCTION

Installation Order

P rofessional installation of the MasterSuite

system includes completing step-by-step instructions for component installation in order. By completing each task in the correct order the installer won’t need to backtrack or repeat work. There is nothing more frustrating (and costly) than having to disassemble completed work because a crucial step was overlooked. Below is the basic order in which the components of a closet or garage system should be installed. (There are slight deviations from this order for the hanging track system, which are noted on the assembly instructions.)

INSTALLATION ORDER – DELUXE REACH-IN CLOSET

Assemble or Install

Tower Assembly

Drill Drawer Runner

Holes

Accessory Hardware

Description of Action

Assemble shelf towers (floor mounted, hanging, hutch or

corner towers).

Use the 14” or 18” drawer runner template to drill holes in

tower side panels for drawers.

Add all hardware to the shelf tower required for

accessories (i.e. attach drawer and basket runners, shelf

pins, and so on).

Position Tower in closet

Position the shelf tower in the closet in its final location.

Level the tower.

Drawers

Install drawers. Re-level tower if necessary.

Tower & Hamper Doors

Install cabinet tower doors and hamper doors. Re-level

tower if necessary. Secure to the wall.

Uprights

Install upright closet panels, ensuring each panel is level to

the top of the shelf tower.

Top shelf and fixed double hang shelf

Install the top shelf and any shelves between upper and

lower double hanging.

Poles

Shelf pins and adjustable shelves

Crown Molding

Measure, cut and install poles.

10.

Install all adjustable shelves .

Remaining Accessories:

Baskets, Tie/Belt Racks,

Valet Rods

Wipe down and clean

11. Before installation of remaining accessories, attach any

crown molding to the finished closet cabinetry.

12. Finish remaining accessory installation. Drop baskets into

slides; attach tie and belt racks and valet rods.

13.

Clean finished unit. Wipe down closet with household

cleaner.

INTRODUCTION

Installation Order - 2

INSTALLATION ORDER – DELUXE WALK-IN CLOSET

Assemble or Install

Steps 1. – 13.

(Previous page)

Island/Bench Units

Wipe down and clean

Description of Action

14.

Assemble and install all components as above for reach-in

closets with the following exceptions: a) Start with the towers farthest from the door and work

out of the closet forward to the door. b) Install Islands as below, before clean up.

15.

Assemble and position any island and/or bench units.

16.

Clean finished unit. Wipe down with household cleaner.

INSTALLATION ORDER – MULTISUITE CABINET SYSTEM

Assemble or Install

Description of Action

Cabinet Assembly

Drawers

Doors

Adjustable Shelves

Install rails, vertical panels and cammed shelves and

feet

Add adjustable shelves into installed cabinets.

Install drawers (if any) to base cabinets.

Attach all cabinet doors.

Countertop & Slot Wall

Cut and attach countertop and slotwall, along with any

slotwall accessories.

Wipe down and clean

Clean finished units. Wipe down cabinets with household

cleaner.

INTRODUCTION

Installation Order - 3

INSTALLATION APPOINTMENT ORDER

Assemble or Install

Description of Action

Arrival

Inspect Site

Unload Product and

Tools

Tearout

Install Closet Product

Clean Closet

System(s)

Vacuum

Customer Review and

Payment Collection

Remove Waste and

Tools

Arrive on site. Greet customer, if available. Review installation process with client, if available.

Inspect installation site with design plans in hand and tape measure. Verify all clothing has been removed and closet is prepared for installation. Double check closet measurements against plans. If there are no major obstacles to installation

(i.e. drastically incorrect measurements requiring new closet components), determine best route to transport tools and closet parts to site.

Bring tools and product to site location, ensuring finished walls and hardwood floors are protected from dings by laminate. Use empty packaging, blanket or cloth underneath laminate on hardwood floors.

If removal of existing, built-in shoe racks, cabinetry or cleats and baseboard is necessary, tearout must be completed before installation of new system. (For safety, ensure nails or other fasteners are removed or bent down on the loose materials removed from the closet.)

Install all closet systems.

Wipe down all shelves, poles and partitions with soft cloth.

Clean with household cleaner.

Vacuum the floor where parts were assembled and stored while in assembly process.

Double-check your installation against the design plans.

Ensure all shelves, drawers and other accessories are in correct place. Demonstrate to client, if available, how to adjust shelf height, etc. Collect payment, if applicable, from client.

Remove waste from top shelves and other parts. Take tools to truck.

The following is a quick-reference guide to the exciting new line of

MasterSuite 3/4" products! These

"tidbits" will prove helpful for understanding, ordering and installing the new line! Please refer to this page as often as necessary while familiarizing yourself with the new line.

HARDWARE

Studs:

• There are new screw-in studs

(#56544) and double-sided studs

(#56534).

Cams:

• A new, single hole cam is now used for all MasterSuite components!

• To tighten cams, hold screwdriver at a 25-degree angle . See

Fig. 1 below.

Fig. 1 25˚

• Cam hole is 20 mm.

• Current cam lock drill tools can still be used to make custom cam shelves.

o Hettich tool

• Adjust depth setting to “15”

• Drill only 20 mm hole.

INTRODUCTION

Hints, Tips & Ordering

24" MATERIAL

• 24" deep material is available in white only and is available in two shelf widths: 24" and 30".

• Cam shelf uses 3 cams per side.

• Drawers can be added by using 18" drawer boxes.

• To install drawer slide, attach slide to panel with Euro screw in front system hole. (Slide will be flush with front of panel.) Place small torpedo level on slide.

Once leveled, screw back part of slide to panel by driving a #6 x 5/8” screw. There is no need for a pre-drilled hole.

• Hang rod can be installed on center set system holes.

CLEATS

• We strongly recommend using a cleat for any system which could have the potential to hold heavy duty items or be used at a maximum weight capacity.

Interview client to determine future use! We also recommend using a cleat at the top of any 60" or 80" thru-drilled panel and in the center tower of any hanging tower system.

• Cleats now have two (2) pre-installed dowels (per side) and one (1) hole in each side for a screw. This is opposite of the old cleat, so please make note! Use one (1) HiLow screw to secure cleat to side panel.

HUTCH

• Shelves and drawers, along with hardware, are sold separately.

• There are no more "packs" except for panel packs

(2 per box—left and right, if stop drilled).

• 20" hutch shelves: adjustable shelf and fixed cam shelf. Each is sold with three (3) per box. (For top section shelves, use standard 14" depth shelves.)

• Two new hutch drawer boxes: 6"H x 18" deep and

10"H x 18" deep (both available in 24" or 30" widths).

• To install drawer slide, attach slide to panel with Euro screw in front system hole. Back hole will need to be drilled. Use template (#05-90053) and drill with

5mm Self-Centering Bit (#05-11619).

DOORS AND DRAWERS

• All doors and drawers are now sold with soft-closing hinges and slides as standard! (Slides are full extension.)

• Handles are sold separately and come in two sizes: knob and 96 mm. Each handle comes with three sizes of handle screws to fit any MasterSuite door/ drawer type: 1/2", 3/4" and 1".

Doors:

• There are two new templates for doors: hinge plates and door handles. (Only Hamper Doors are premarked for handles; otherwise, no doors are premarked for handles.) See "Assembly Templates" for more detailed information on both of these templates.

• Each door should be installed with one soft-close hinge and one regular hinge (except 55", which gets two soft close hinges and one regular hinge).

• There is a new Hole Sleeve and Mounting Bolt

(#56514) for mounting doors back to back on a common panel. Old version for 5/8” material will not work, except for MultiSuite.

Drawers:

• To accommodate full-extension soft-closing slides, new panel holes are required to be drilled. A new, easy-to-remove template is provided for these holes.

See "Assembly Templates" section for more detailed information.

• All drawer fronts feature a "dimpled" back which allows you to easily drill your preferred handle type. Simply, drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the appropriate back dimples. Turn drawer over and drill a 3/16" hole through the front for the handle. (This is the best to prevent chipping.)

Hamper Door:

• Hardware does not come with the door and is sold separately as a hardware kit (#38295).

• All hamper door fronts feature a "dimpled" back.

Follow steps as detailed above in "Drawers" section for drilling handle holes.

• The hinge plate template is new and is the same as the door hinge plate template. See "Assembly

Templates" for detailed information.

INTRODUCTION

Hints, Tips & Ordering - 2

ISLAND KIT

• Island Kit now includes all shelves, panels, and hardware.

Top is sold separately. One-half top and full top available.

• Choice of two (2) countertops

(available as full or half size).

ORDERING TIPS:

Hutch:

For a complete hutch, order separate components as follows:

• Hutch panel pack

• 20” cam shelves (at least 2)

• 14” cam shelf (at least one for top)

• Cleat (3)

• Optional items (drawers, adjustable shelves, toe kicks)

• Hardware

Drawer:

Order drawers as follows:

• Drawer box (can be used with any front). Comes with slides and hardware

• Drawer front

• Handle

Hamper:

For a complete hamper, order separate components as follows:

• Hamper Door

• Hamper Hardware kit

• Handle

• Basket

Island Kit:

Components needed to order for complete island.

• Island kit (1 for ½ island;

2 for full island)

• Top

• Optional accessories (drawers, doors, adjustable shelves, hamper, baskets).

IMPORTANT!

THE NEW MASTERSUITE

3/4” PRODUCT LINE HAS

FOUR (4) NEW TEMPLATES!

Even though the new templates may look similar to the current Master-

Suite templates you have, it is important to understand that they are different. We highly recommend that you take the time to mark the new templates as “ New “ to avoid any confusion with current Master-

Suite templates! We also recommend that you keep any of your current templates until you are sure all of your 5/8” MasterSuite stock has been depleted.

There are several templates available to make installation easier. Each template has a specific purpose and is intended to ease and speed up installation time. It is important to fully understand which templates work best with which pieces.

Each drawer front is marked on the back with "dimples" for the various handle sizes. See "Drawer

Assembly" for more information.

INTRODUCTION

Assembly Templates

DOOR HANDLE TEMPLATE

One convenient template is provided for all door handles, and it works for all handle sizes! To use the template, simply position the template on door front to align with the bottom edge of inner door panel (raised or flat). (See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.) Drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the corresponding handle hole(s) on front of door. Turn the door over and drill a 3/16" hole for handle at pilot location(s).

128 mm

96 mm

Fig. 2

Fig. 1

DOOR/HAMPER HINGE TEMPLATE

This template works exactly the same way as the current Door/Hamper Hinge Template. However, the holes are in a slightly different location to allow for the new product. Drill holes with 5mm Self-Centering Drill

Bit (#05-11619).

TEMPLATES PROVIDED

There are a total of 6 templates that are needed to properly install the new 3/4” MasterSuite product line:

• Shoe Fence - #05-11818

• Door Handle - #05-90050

• Door/Hamper Hinge - #05-90051

• Slide (14”) - #05-90052

• Slide (18”) - #05-90053

Note, new templates are listed in bold

(above).

”

AND 18

”

SLIDE TEMPLATE

To ease working with the template, we have extended the template toward the front to allow for easier removal from the side panel! To install slide, push template prongs into system holes at desired height. Arrow on template should point out of cabinet!

Using 5 mm Self-

Centering Bit, drill holes through drill bu

INTRODUCTION

Working with Different Wall Types

closet is safely and adequately fastened to the walls is using the correct fasteners for the job. Different wall types require different fasteners due to the weight and engineering of this system. The chart below lists the various walls types commonly found in detached homes and high rise apartments, as well as the various fasteners we recommend you use in installation of this product.

In addition to having a familiarity with various wall types, it is also necessary to be aware of potential obstacles located within the closet walls. Your closet walls may contain plumbing pipes, ventilation ducts, pocket doors, wall safes and other hazards. Drilling a hole or screw into any one of these obstacles can be costly and/or dangerous. We strongly urge you to thoroughly examine the walls to which you will be fastening the closet system and/or query the homeowner, if available, on potential hazards before you begin installation.

TO FASTEN

UNIT

BELOW TO

WALL TYPE AT

RIGHT,

USE FASTENER

LISTED IN

CHART.

Wood

Stud

” Drywall

Metal

Stud

Floor Mounted

Partition Cleat

4.5x60mm

(2-3/8”) wood screw

4.5x60mm

(2-3/8”) wood screw

Easy Anchor and

#8 x 1-1/4 screw

Hanging

Track/Rail

#10 x 2” washer hex head screw

NOT

RECOMMENDED zip toggle bolt

Pole Cup

Shelf/Pole

Bracket

Top Shelf

Support (Corbel)

4.5x60mm

(2-3/8”) wood screw

Plastic Angle

Bracket

#8 x 1-1/4” wood screw

Easy Anchor and

#8 x 1-1/4” screw

Easy Anchor and

#8 x 1-1/4” screw

4.5x60mm

(2-3/8”) wood screw

Not recommended

Easy Anchor and

#8 x 1-1/4” screw

WALL TYPE

Plaster and

Lath

4.5x60mm (2-3/8”) wood screw

#10 x 2” washer hex head screw

#8 x -1-1/4” wood screw

#8 x 1-1/4” wood screw

4.5x60mm (2-3/8”) wood screw

#8 x 1-1/4” wood screw

Masonry

1-1/4” Tapcon 

1-3/4” Tapcon 

1-1/4” Tapcon 

Plywood/

Particle Board/

Cedar

Wood or Metal

Stud

#8 x 1-1/4 wood screw

#8 x 1-1/4” wood screw

1-1/4” Tapcon  #8 x 5/8” wood screw

#8 x 1-1/4” wood screw

#8 x 5/8” wood screw

INTRODUCTION

Problem Closets

. Both the closet designer and installer should be aware of make further onsite adjustments to customize the closet system for each unique situation.

Here are examples of some of the problems you can run into:

CLOSETS WITH DEEP RETURNS

In closets with deep returns, allow a minimum of 10” from the return to the shelving tower for deep reach access. Design options for extra deep returns include using the space for front- to-back hanging (see Fig. 1). Place double-hang on both ends of the closet with a minimal area for long hang in the center.

SHALLOW CLOSETS

Shallow closets with a minimum depth of 20” will work like regular closets. The only problem will be that the garment sleeves may rub against the doors. However, for unusually shallow clothing closets, you may wish to consider mounting the KV5 pull out rod (Fig. 2), which positions the clothing facing the closet opening. One pullout rod fits comfortably in each 24” section.

Fig. 2

DOOR HEIGHT UNDER 86 ”

Many closet doorways have soffits above them, making access to items on the top shelf difficult. We recommend that you miter cut the closet’s uprights (Fig. 3); edgeband the cut edges; and use a 12” deep top shelf instead of the standard 14” top shelf. This additional space will make access to the top of the closet considerably easier.

SHOE BOARDS ON FLOOR

There are two options: 1) Tear out the shoe shelf. Inform customer before tearout that an unfinished spot will remain on the floor where the built-in shoe shelf used to be. OR 2)

Install the rail hanging system.

Fig. 1

Mitered cut and edgeband

Fig. 3

INTRODUCTION

Problem Closets - 2

WALL JOGS AND OBSTRUCTIONS ON BACK WALL

When your closet has one or more jogs along the back wall, you must install uprights at the end of each wall jog (Fig. 4). Take care when screwing into wall jogs, as it is possible it may mask plumbing, vents or other nonstandard wall construction.

Fig. 4

WINDOWS, ELECTRICAL OR ALARM BOXES ON SIDE WALL

Depending upon the size and location of the side wall obstacle, there are many solutions to this problem. First, if possible, design long hang against the sidewall and use the shelf and pole bracket to support the top shelf and pole. Second, if using the rail hanging system, use the short upright or notch it to fit around the obstacle

(Fig. 5). (NOTE: Do not notch more than half the depth of the panel.)

Lastly, when necessary for adequate weight support, use the corbel mounted into a wall stud closest to the sidewall to support the top shelf and pole.

Fig. 5

Notch no more than 7 ”

ANGLED SIDE WALL

When possible, use the shelf and pole bracket mounted along the angled side wall. As the bracket will no longer be perpendicular to the pole, it will be necessary to cut away a portion of the plastic pole cup for the pole to fit in it at an angle (Fig. 6).

Alternatively, when the shelf and pole bracket cannot be used in conjunction with the angled wall, install a corbel or upright, leaving the unusable closet corner.

Fig. 6

INTRODUCTION

Problem Closets - 3

SLOPED CEILINGS

Some sloped ceilings are ideally suited for the

MasterSuite rail hanging system (Fig. 7). Staggered height rails make maximum use of the available space, from long hang down to short hang. In other circumstances it is only suitable to install low, or short hang in the limited low ceiling space.

TRAP DOORS IN FLOOR, ATTIC ACCESS

Set the shelf tower away from any trap doors and attic access. Install the top shelf so that it will be removable or trim the top shelf where it directly affects the access to the attic or trap door.

CEMENT, BRICK OR ADOBE WALLS

Mark and pre-drill wall with 1/4” diameter masonry bit, approximately 1-1/2 “ deep in all locations that would have required an Easy Anchor. Insert plastic wall anchor in hole. Use Tapcons  to fasten system to wall. (See “Working with Different Wall Types” for further details.) Attach pole brackets and shelf/pole brackets with 1-1/4“ Phillips sheet metal screws.

PLYWOOD WALLS

Fig. 7

Use #715 screw to fasten system to plywood walls. Use 5/8” Phillips pan head screws to attach pole brackets. (See “Working with Different Wall Types” for further details.)

POLE SPANS

The MasterSuite closet system is engineered to support pole spans up to 42” wide without additional support in double hang sections and up to 30” in long hang sections. We do not recommend attempting to extend this distance.

POCKET DOORS AND MEDICINE CABINETS

Pocket doors and medicine cabinets are usually mounted 1-1/4” from the exterior of drywall, so you should use screws that are shorter than 1-1/4”. It is also advisable to immediately test a pocket door after mounting screws into its casing wall to ensure your screws haven’t impeded movement of the door.

CLOSETS UNDER 85-5/8 ” CEILING HEIGHT

It is necessary to shorten the uprights to fit unusually low ceiling closets. Cut the bottom end of all uprights as their rough edges will be invisible when seated on top of carpeting.

Lastly, whenever dealing with problem closets and unusual obstacles in closets, it is important for both designer and installer to take extra care: measure carefully and exactly; mark all obstacles clearly on design plans; discuss obstacles with installation staff before installation; and if necessary, discuss the obstacles with the installation staff prior to presenting the final bid.

INTRODUCTION

Breakouts

W ith the exception of new or recently remodeled homes, removing the old closet material must be considered before any design or price estimates are given to the customer. Breakout can be as simple as lifting out the existing shelf and pole. It may also be as complex as gutting the room where the new closet system will be installed. There are three basic types of breakout (a/k/a

“tearout”):

DESCRIPTION OF BREAKOUTS:

LIGHT (STANDARD)

The simplest and most common type consists of a pole, a shelf and cleats. The installer may need only his basic tools to remove these items in 10 – 15 minutes.

MEDIUM

In addition to the standard pole and shelf, a medium breakout could include extra shelves and/ or poles or a simple shelf system in the corner. This type of breakout will generally require an additional 30 minutes to the usual installation time.

HEAVY

Extensive built-in sections are often insurmountable. Some older homes have large built-in drawers inside their closets. This category can also include complex built-in floor shoe racks.

Labor and materials for this type of breakout require careful examination and calculation. Most importantly, unless you have extensive experience with these structures, you cannot know whether or not they contain elements which affect structural and/or wall damage. Use extreme caution before tackling these closets!

Most importantly, make good use of your time. If the breakout requires removal of refuse, take a load out to your truck and then bring in another stack of supplies. Don’t waste trips walking back and forth with empty hands.

BREAKOUT INSTRUCTIONS:

LIGHT

Remove pole and its hardware. Gently knock the existing shelf up and then carefully remove without dinging walls or light fixtures with shelf corners and edges. Cut away any remaining caulking used around the old shelf. Pry away any support cleats carefully where they are fastened to the walls and studs. Scrape away any remaining caulking or nails. Patch and sand any holes, if necessary.

MEDIUM

Use the same procedures as above for Medium Breakouts.

HEAVY

Heavy Breakouts may require extensive removal of refuse, for which dumping fees may be required. Additionally, further materials may be needed for patching and painting (drop cloth and other supplies). Use wire pliers to pull embedded wall anchors.

Finally, bear in mind that older homes may have pole holes cut into thick support cleats. We advise you to cut the poles out of these cleats and then cut the cleats, as they are often extremely sturdy, and any heavy torque pulling against these existing supports may cause both items to pull away from the wall and cause significant wall damage. Proceed with caution.

INTRODUCTION

Average Installation Times

L isted below are average installation times for an experienced laminate installer. Installation time shown is based upon prepared closet walls, i.e. they’re ready-to-install  no breakout necessary and all tools and supplies are onsite. The times shown may vary greatly in the event that measurements originally taken by the designer are incorrect; designs have errors (such as drawers bumping into obstacles); or other problems are evident, such as baseboard or cleat cutting requirements, or extreme leveling problems.

This manual provides precise recommendations on the order in which each closet component should be installed so your installer’s time is maximized. Forgetting to install basket slides while a partition remains on the floor may not appear on the surface to add much time to installation, but small oversights can add considerably to installation time. Good organization of the installation workflow is essential to meeting time requirements.

Closet Type/Name

Bedroom Closets

Avg. Time – Floor Mount Avg. Time – Rail Mount

8’ Standard Reach In

4’ x 7’ L-Shaped Walk In

90 minutes

120 minutes

8’ x 8’ Walk In

7’ x 12’ Walk In

210 minutes

255 minutes

Angled Wall Walk In 255 minutes

Islands

Full Island w/All Drawers 90 minutes

Half Island w/All Drawers 70 minutes

Full Island , Drwrs., Shl.+Doors 95 minutes

Half Island, Drwrs., Shl.+Doors 65 minutes

Full Island w/All Shelves & Doors 90 minutes

Half Island w/All Shelves & Doors 60 minutes

Pantry and Linen Closets

0” to 32” Standards & Brackets

33 to 48” Standards & Brackets

45 minutes

90 minutes

120 minutes

210 minutes

255 minutes

INTRODUCTION

Average Installation Times - 2

Closet Type/Name

49” to 96” Standards & Brackets

0” to 32” Laminate Adj. Shelving

33” to 48” Laminate Adj. Shelving

49” to 96” Laminate Adj. Shelving

Laminate Shelf and Pole Closets

0 to 4’ Shelf and Pole only

4’1” to 8’0” Shelf and Pole only

8’1” to 12’0” Shelf and Pole only

0 to 4’ Half DH, Half Long

4’1” to 8’0” Half DH, Half Long

8’1” to 12’0” Half DH, Half Long

Upgrade Combinations

Avg. Time – Floor Mount Avg. Time – Rail Mount

60 minutes

90 minutes

105 minutes

20 minutes

30 minutes

50 minutes

70 minutes

Drawer Combination B*

Drawer Combination C* 40 minutes

Drawer Combination D* 40 minutes

Drawer Combination E* 35 minutes

Drawer Combination F* 35 minutes

Drawer Combination G* 30 minutes

Drawer Combination H* 35 minutes

Drawer Combination I* 30 minutes

Drawer Combination J* 35 minutes

Door and 5 Drawer Set

2 Drawers and Hamper Door

2 Doors and 1 Drawer Set

1 Drawer Set

Doors, 3 Drawers, Hamper Door

35 minutes

75 minutes

60 minutes

45 minutes

30 minutes

60 minutes

35 minutes

40 minutes

35 minutes

30 minutes

35 minutes

*See "Drawer Assembly" section for line art drawings of drawer "upgrade" combinations B-J.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Stand Alone Tower

DESCRIPTION

Upright Partitions

Cleat/Toekick

Cam Fixed Shelves

Screw in Studs or Double-Sided Studs

#8 x 1-1/4” Screws

#8 x 5/8” Screws

HiLow Screws

Angle (Corner) Brackets

Easy Anchors

Fast Caps

Assorted closet components (adj. and fixed cam

shelves, etc.)

These instructions apply to assembly of a floor-mounted, stand-alone shelving tower.

(See “Tower System” or “Hanging System” for instructions on installation of either wall-anchored towers in a system or rail-hung shelving tower sections.)

For easiest assembly, stand-alone tower components are usually put together into the basic cabinet “box” on the floor

(using the cardboard packaging as a buffer between the floor and cabinet panels so that you don’t scratch the laminate surface of the panels).

Once the basic “box” is assembled, it can be installed in the closet or pantry in its final location. Additional cabinet components, such as extra shelves, cabinet doors and drawers, are installed later.

LOCATION: This unit is best suited for a standalone tower which is not anchored to any side wall. For closets with short soffits, narrow reach-ins, small doors – tight spaces, you may not be able to assemble the tower outside the closet and then move it into its final location.

Check your work space prior to assembly to ensure adequate maneuvering space is available. If the closet does not provide adequate space to “build and move”, we recommend following the “Tower System” instructions and building the closet in its final location.

¢ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

CORRECT PARTS? Before beginning assembly on the cardboard packaging, ensure your tower partitions are the appropriate size(s) for the design and space:

Consider whether your design requires thrudrilled and/or stop-drilled panels.

Ensure notched panels clear the height of any existing baseboard. Trim the panel’s notch to fit, if necessary, before assembly of the tower.

Ensure tall panel tops will clear any low ceiling heights. Otherwise, you will need to follow "Tower System" assembly instructions for floor-to-ceiling towers.

Screw-In Studs or Double-Sided Studs?

Use screw-in studs only in partitions positioned on the end or in corners.

For stand-alone towers, screw-in-studs will typically be used. Thread screw-in studs into partition holes until the stop ring is snug with the partition face.

Use double-sided studs for contiguous closet sections in which you need to have two fixed shelves fastened to either side of the same system hole. For example, you must use double-sided studs for neighboring fixed shelves of adjacent double hang sections. For Tower

System or Hanging System, a mix of screw-in studs and double-sided studs may be used.

Lay down both tower side panels

(partitions) face up on the cardboard or cloth with the notched ends at the bottom facing in. (See Fig. 1.) Use a screwdriver to thread six (6) screw-in studs into each side panel. Two (2) screw-in-studs will go into top holes, two (2) screw-in-studs will go into holes located 43" down from top, and two (2) screw-in studs will be above the baseboard notch (5th hole from the bottom of the panel).

NOTE: Depending upon the design, the use of screw-instuds may be interchangeable with double-sided studs for contiguous sections or adjacent towers. Use appropriate fastener for the design.

Align dowels in one end of cleat with holes in top of left panel as shown. Push cleat dowels into holes. See Fig. 2.

NOTE: For towers with drawers or baskets, it is optional to fasten the slide runners on each of the side panels either before full assembly, lying on the floor, or after standing up the tower. (See “Drawer" in "DRAWER AND

DOOR ASSEMBLY” section for detailed instructions on runner location and installation.)

3. Turn panel over onto its back edge. Use one

(1) HiLow Screw through hole in side panel.

(See Fig. 3a.) Line up two of the cam locks of the top fixed shelf over the screw-in studs and push down over the cams to fasten. Tighten the joint by turning each of the cam locks a full 180˚ clockwise with a Phillips head screwdriver. (See Fig. 3b.) Next, fasten the bottom fixed shelf. (See Fig. 3c.) Finally, attach the middle fixed shelf. (See Fig. 3d.)

NOTE: Omit bottom shelf if appropriate to the design or for double-hang section.

NOTE: The location of the middle shelf may vary if you plan different door or drawer combinations in this tower, or for taller towers, or for non-standard double-hang height sections. For best results, measure the height of the clothes to hang in the bottom half of the double hang to ensure they will fit.

43” a

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Stand Alone Tower - Pg. 2 b c d

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

NOTE: It may be difficult to screw in cleats while the tower panels are lying on the floor. You may wish to complete fastening of cleats once you stand up the tower.

To use the cleat as a toekick, remove the four dowels from the cleat. Fasten the cleat in the toekick position using one HiLow screw through each side panel. (See Fig. 4.) (See

“Toe Kick Installation” instructions for further details on contiguous panel toekick installation.)

Attach the remaining side panel to the cammed shelves and cleats or toe kicks following steps 3-5, as necessary. See Fig. 5.

If preferred, gently rollover the tower onto either side panel in order to complete fastening of various screws and studs into each panel.

Stand up the tower. Add fast caps to any exposed screw heads. Place the tower in its final location in the closet. Watch for overhead obstacles while maneuvering tower into place.

7. Level tower system, adding shims, if necessary, to one or more partitions.

8. Attach fast caps to any exposed screw heads.

9. Fasten the tower to the closet’s wall with appropriate wall screws through the upper cleat. (See “Working with Different Wall

Types” for details.) (See Fig. 6.)

10.

After securing all parts and tightening cleat screws, install the remaining accessories

(doors, drawers, shoe fences, sliding racks, etc.).

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Stand Alone Tower - Pg. 3

Fig. 4 a c d

Fig. 5 b d

Fig. 6

DESCRIPTION

85-5/8” Partitions (or other length partitions)

Cleat/Toekick

Cam Fixed Shelves

Screw-in Studs (#56544) or Double-Sided Studs (#56534)

#8 x 1-1/4” Screws

#8 x 5/8” Screws

HiLow Screws

Angle (Corner) Brackets

Easy Anchors

Fast Caps

Assorted closet components (adj. and fixed cam shelves, etc.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Tower System

¢ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

These instructions apply to assembly of a shelving tower which will:

• Be part of a contiguous wall system with at least one tower being anchored to one side wall;

• For closets with multiple tower installations;

• For closets with short soffits, narrow reach-ins, small doors—tight spaces;

• Floor-to-ceiling towers.

(See “Stand Alone Tower” or “Hanging

System” for instructions on installation of either stand-alone towers or rail-hung shelving tower sections.)

LOCATION: For a system of multiple towers (or a continuous wall system) with at least one tower against a side wall, once the first side panel of the tower is secured to a side wall, the rest of the tower and the system can be built on the wall in its final location. Closets that have tight spaces or low ceilings are best assembled in their final locations to prevent building the product and then being unable to fit it into the space. For closets with multiple tower installations, be sure to begin tower installation furthest from the closet door and/ or at the highest location if the floor is slightly sloped (as in older homes with settling).

CORRECT PARTS? Before beginning assembly on the cardboard packaging, ensure your tower partitions are the appropriate size(s) for the design and space.

Consider whether your design requires thrudrilled and/or stop-drilled panels.

Ensure notched panels clear the height of any existing baseboard. Trim the panel’s notch to fit, if necessary, before assembly of the tower.

Screw-In Studs or Double-Sided Studs?

Use screw-in studs only in partitions positioned on the end or in corners. For stand-alone towers, screwin studs will typically be used. Thread screw-in studs into partition holes until the stop ring is snug with the partition face.

System or Hanging System, a mix of screw-in studs and double-sided studs may be used.

Lay down both tower side panels

(partitions) face up on the cardboard or cloth with the notched ends at the bottom facing in. (See Fig. 1.) Use a screwdriver to thread six (6) screw-in studs into one side panel (the one that will be on the side wall) as shown. Two (2) screwin studs will go into top holes, two (2) screw-in studs will go into holes located

43" down from top, and two (2) screw-in studs will be above the baseboard notch (5th from the bottom of the panel). (Do not install studs into the other panel at this time!)

AND DOOR ASSEMBLY” section for detailed instructions on runner location and installation.)

Align dowels in one end of cleat with holes in top of left panel as shown. Push cleat dowels into holes. See Fig. 2.

3. Turn panel over and thread one (1) HiLow screw from hole in outside of left panel into center hole of cleat. See Fig. 3.

4. Stand panel/cleat upright and place into position in closet as shown in Fig. 4. Secure panel to one sidewall using appropriate wall hardware (see "Working with Different Wall

Types"). Secure wall hardware at top and bottom of panel (at about the 7th or 8th hole locations) preferably at a stud location.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Tower System - Pg. 2

43”

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Position the next panel (a thru-drilled panel for a continuous system), aligning the holes in the panel with the dowels in the cleat. Thread one

(1) HiLow screw from hole in outside of thrudrilled panel into center hole of cleat. (See Fig.

5a.) Push double-sided studs through holes in panel to align with previously-installed screw-in studs. (See Fig. 5b.)

6. Fasten the cleat to the closet’s wall with two appropriate wall screws. (See “Working with

Different Wall Types” section and Fig. 6.)

HINT: In the case of walls which are not square, do not fully tighten cleat screws until all system parts are in place!

Line up two of the cam locks of the top fixed shelf over the screw-in/double-sided studs and press over the cams to fasten. Tighten the joint by turning each of the cam locks a full 180˚ clockwise with a Phillips head screwdriver.

(See Fig. 7.)

Next, fasten the bottom fixed shelf by angling the shelf upwards and pushing the back cams over the studs in the back. (See Fig. 7b.) Use a screwdriver to turn each cam lock a full 180˚ clockwise. (See Fig. 7a and 7b.) Lower front of shelf and use a short-handled screwdriver to secure front cam locks. (See Fig. 8.)

NOTE: Omit bottom shelf if appropriate to the design or for double-hang section. a

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Tower System - Pg. 3 a b

Fig. 5

Fig. 6 b

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

9 . Attach another cleat as shown in Fig. 9.

(Note: Each successive cleat will only have one HiLow Screw attached through each successive panel.)

10. Attach another panel (thru-drilled or stopdrilled) to the cleat. Secure cleat through second panel with one (1) HiLow Screw. See

Fig. 10.

11. Continue to build the tower system across the wall by repeating steps 6-10 to secure all parts of the system.

12.

Add middle shelf(ves), as detailed in step 7

(on previous page) to tighten the cams.

NOTE: The location of the middle shelf may vary if you plan different door or drawer combinations in this tower, or for taller towers, or for non-standard double-hang height sections.

For best results, measure the height of the clothes to hang in the bottom half of the double hang to ensure they will fit.

13. Level tower system, adding shims, if necessary, to one or more partitions.

14.

Attach toekicks, if appropriate, by removing dowels from cleats and securing to front of panel with one (1) HiLow Screw. (See “Toe

Kick Installation” instructions for further details on contiguous panel toekick installation.)

15. Attach fast caps to any exposed screw heads.

16.

After securing all parts and tightening cleat screws, install the remaining accessories

(doors, drawers, shoe fences, sliding racks, etc.).

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Tower System - Pg. 4

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Hanging Tower System

DESCRIPTION

Rail and Cover

Cleat (for each "center" tower)

#10 x 2” Washer Hex Head Screws

Left and Right Brackets

Fast Caps

Hanging Partitions (any length with at

least one 80" or 60" thru-drilled panel)

Cam Fixed Shelves

Screw-in Studs (#56544)

Double-Sided Studs (#56534)

Zip Toggle Bolts

#8 x 1-1/4” Screws

#8 x 5/8” Screws

Angle (Corner) Brackets

Easy Anchors

Installation of a MasterSuite Hanging

System and related sections requires skill and familiarity with the installation of the floor-mounted shelf tower and its related components.

¢ Shelving Towers

£ Angled/Curved Wall

Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

The rail-mounted hanging closet system relies upon correct anchoring of the rail to the wall supports, proper cleat assembly, and mounting of the brackets to the partitions to bear the considerable weight of the system. Accurate fastening of these components is essential to ensuring the system is safely and permanently secured. We also recommend that any panel that is adjacent to a side wall be secured to that side wall at a stud location.

Fig. 1

• Ensure the hanging vertical partitions do not require trimming to fit above the closet’s baseboard. Ensure the closet height is sufficient to accommodate use of your screw gun to install the top shelf if the design uses a continuous top shelf piece. You may need to shorten, or notch the partitions to fit above, or around, the baseboard.

NOTE: This step may be completed in your shop or on site.

NOTE: Cleat holes are pre-drilled on 60" and

80" panels. Cleat holes are not pre-drilled on

48" panels.

• Mount all left and right suspension brackets to the hanging partitions prior to system installation using two (2) #8 x 5/8” screws through the bracket into the pre-drilled bracket holes on the partition. Snap on Fast Caps to the opposite side of the partition over the exposed bracket holes. (See Fig. 1.)

• Mount all drawer and basket runners, if desired, prior to hanging partitions on the rail. (See

“Drawer” or “Basket” assembly sections for instructions regarding runner installation.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Hanging Tower System -2

Draw a level line across the entire wall at 82-7/8” or 93” from the floor.

Locate and mark the wall studs along your line. (See Fig. 2.)

Measure from a corner of the closet wall to the center of the first stud. Next, measure the same distance (e.g. 8-1/2”) from the end of the rail. If the measured distance does not fall exactly on a rail hole (see Fig. 3), you must trim the end of the rail the length necessary to ensure the holes align with the wall studs. (Holes are pre-drilled on 1” centers along the length of the rail. Studs should fall on 16” or 24” centers.) Use a hacksaw and file to cut and de-burr a length of rail as necessary.

Fasten the rail to the wall with a Zip Toggle Bolt wherever a partition will be hung that is more than

4” to the left or right from the center of a stud. (See

Fig. 4.)

Positioning the bottom of the rail flush to the drawn line, fasten the rail to every stud using one

#10 x 2” Washer Hex Head Screw per stud. (Use

Tapcons for concrete and cinder block walls. Use

Zip Toggle Bolts for studless walls.) THE RAIL

MUST BE ANCHORED A MINIMUM OF EV-

ERY 16" ALONG ITS LENGTH AND NO MORE

THAN 4" FROM ANCHOR TO PARTITION.

Trim the plastic rail cover to fit, and snap it over the length of the rail.

NOTE: If rail is to be longer than 8 feet, seam the rail cover directly behind a partition to ensure a smooth visible surface.

Hang the vertical partitions in their final positions from the suspension brackets on the rail.

Secure any partitions that are adjacent to a sidewall through a stud. (See "Working with Different

Wall Types" for appropriate wall hardware.)

Fasten all screw-in or double-sided studs into the system holes for the fixed shelves. (See Fig. 5.)

Thread screw-in studs into partition holes until the stop ring is snug with the partition face. (See

“Drawer” in "Drawer and Door Assembly" section for locations of fixed shelves above, below and between banks of drawers.)

NOTE: Marked stud locations will be masked by system components during installation.

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

NOTE: For purposes of illustration, rail cover is not shown in Figs.

3 and 4.

NOTE: Use screw-in studs only in partitions positioned on the end or in corners. Use double sided studs for contiguous closet sections in which you need to have two fixed shelves fastened to either side of the same system hole. For example, you must use double-sided studs for neighboring fixed shelves of adjacent double hang sections.

Working from one corner across the wall (left or right), seat the fixed shelves’ cam locks, for the end section only (see Fig. 5A) over the screw-in studs’ heads and tighten each cam lock clockwise with a Phillips head screwdriver until secure.

10.

After fastening all fixed shelves in the end section, measure the length of the fixed shelf

(e.g. 24”) between the top of the corner partition and the adjacent partition. (See Fig.

5B.) If necessary, tap the adjacent partition along the top with your hand to adjust its position on the rail to meet this measurement.

11. We strongly recommend that you secure a cleat to the center tower of every three

(3) towers. To do so, push dowel cleats into holes in left and right center partitions and secure cleat to each panel using a HiLow screw. (See Fig. 5c.) Secure cleat to back wall with two (2) wall screws (see "Working with Different Wall Types").

12.

Level both end section partitions using a 4 foot level. (NOTE: Corner walls may not be level in comparison to the end partition.)

Adjust partition plumbness (level) using the set screw on the bottom of each suspension bracket. (See Fig. 6.)

13.

Repeats steps 9-12 for each section working to the left or right along the wall.

14.

If the design uses a continuous top shelf

(instead of cammed top shelving), after leveling the sections, measure, cut and position the long, top shelf. (NOTE: This step is the one exception to the “Order of Assembly.”

(For floor-mounted laminate systems, the continuous top shelf occurs after installation of all doors, drawers and angled wall towers.

See “Top Shelf and Pole” in "Shelving/Tower

Assembly" section for details regarding top shelf installation.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Hanging Tower System - 3 b

S S

Cam Fixed Shelf a

Rail

ATTACH CLEAT

TO CENTER

SECTION!

Cam Fixed Shelf

Screw In Studs

Double Sided Studs

Cam Fixed Shelf

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

15.Before securing a continuous top shelf to each partition, adjust the distance of the partitions from the back wall by tightening or loosening the Distance Screws. (See Fig. 6.) (This step ensures the partition front edges are positioned flush with the front edge of the top shelf.)

The end screw adjusts the bracket/partition’s closeness to the wall (accommodating concave or convex drywall shapes), and the bottom screw adjusts the bracket/ partition’s plumbness to the wall, tilting the partition to or from plumb.

16.After making any final adjustments to the brackets’/partitions’ distance, fasten the top shelf to the top of each partition using two (2)

#8 x 1-1/4” screws.

17.

Secure each vertical partition by fastening an angle (corner) bracket under each partition using #8 x 1-1/4” screws through the bracket into an Easy Anchor in the wall (or, w/o Easy

Anchor, into the stud). Then, fasten a #8 x 5/8” screw from underneath through the Easy

Anchor into the partition bottom using a

90- degree angle drill. (See Fig. 7.)

18. After securing all partitions with corner brackets, install the remaining accessories

(doors, drawers, shoe fences, sliding racks, etc.).

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Hanging Tower System - 4

Fig. 7

QTY. DESCRIPTION

2 Corner Cam Fixed Shelves

4 Corner Adjustable Shelves (optional)

3 Vertical Partitions (Floor Mounted System only)

1 30" Cleat

2 4.5 x 60 mm (2-3/8”) screws with cover caps

24 Safety Shelf Pins (6 per adjustable corner shelf)

16 HiLow Screws

Screw-In and/or Double-Sided Studs (as needed)

Assorted closet components

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Corner Tower

¢ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

These instructions apply to corner towers using shelves or hanging. Please note that corner towers using the radius hanging bar should be matched with the large radius fixed cam corner shelves. The regular cam and adjustable corner shelves do not match the radius curve of the hanging bar.

Further, use of either radius fixed corner shelf at the top of the tower will not match with the continuous top shelf material, so it is not recommended to use a cammed top shelf IF you will also be installing continuous top shelf material.

• In most cases, corner towers should be assembled and installed in the closet before installing other towers and hanging sections along the walls.

• When one or more corner towers have been installed, you may continue regular installation of adjoining hanging and shelving sections.

• You may not install corner towers using the rail hanging MasterSuite system.

• We recommend cutting one (or more) 30” cleat(s) to support and square one side of the corner tower section. Prior to assembly, cut a

30” shelf tower cleat to 29-3/8” wide and drill out dowel (8mm) and HiLow Screw (4 mm) holes. See Fig. 1.

TRIM EACH 30" CLEAT TO 29-3/8". THEN,

DRILL HOLES FOR TWO (2) DOWELS AND

ONE HOLE FOR ONE (1) HI-LOW SCREW

CLEAT

2.13”

54mm

3.39”

86mm

29-3/8”

30”

Unfinished Edge

.87”/22mm

8mm

4mm

Finished Edges

Fig. 1

Lay the side panels down on the floor and fasten two of them together with your trimmed 29-3/8" cleat and two (2) corner shelves, creating a 30-5/8” wide tower. Secure cleat with one HiLow

Screw through each side panel. Stand the tower up and place it in the corner.

See Fig. 2.

NOTE: Always position the partition cut-out in Lshaped shelf on the right side, as shown in the the illustration. Do NOT position fixed shelves closer than 28” from one another.

Add the third partition panel to the open end

(Fig. 3.), and fasten it to the shelves by tightening all the cam locks in place .

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Corner Tower - 2

Plumb and level the tower. Add shims, if necessary. Screw the leveled corner tower to the wall studs using 2- 3/8” screws with cover caps through each of the cleats, as well as through the partition installed flush to the wall.

Ensure the tower is adequately secured to corner wall studs or nearest studs thereto.

Add adjustable shelves (6 shelf pins per shelf) or hanging bars as desired. (See “Top Shelf and

Pole” in "Shelving/Tower Assembly" section for additional instructions.)

Continue with installation of other towers.

Screws

Cleat

Adjustable shelf

Fig. 2

Not less than 28"

Fig. 3

Cut out on right side

NOTE: For purposes of illustration, Fig. 3 does not show option of cammed fixed top shelf or hanging.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Angled Wall Tower

QTY. DESCRIPTION

4 #8 x 1-1/4” Wood Screw (for every 2 partitions on angle)

4 4.5 x 60 mm (2-3/8”) Screw (for every 2 partitions on angle)

4 Angle (Corner) Bracket

Assorted closet components

¢ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

If your closet has one or more angled walls, the angled wall is likely positioned at a 45˚ angle to the adjacent “square” wall(s), creating a 135˚ angle instead of the standard

90˚ perpendicular wall. These instructions provide assistance in the installation of adjacent towers on these angled walls.

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

If the angled wall is greater or less than 135˚ to the square wall, similar steps can be taken for installation, with minor adjustments for the different angles. See second half of these instructions.

These instructions do not apply to rail-hung shelf towers. We do not recommend attempting to connect nearly seamless, continuous top shelving on angled walls with hanging towers.

Install all the other shelving towers and hanging sections on “square” walls first. Then begin positioning partitions for towers on adjacent angled walls. Before cutting final pole, shelf and cleat lengths for systems on walls adjacent to angled walls, ensure you fully understand the positioning, measuring and cutting order to complete this installation.

45˚ ANGLE WALL

Cut the 135˚ angle “wedge” to support the first partition on the angled wall.

Using scrap 14” top shelving or other material, measure 14” along the long edge to “A”. Mark a line across the shelf using a square, making a square box (Fig. 1A). Next draw a diagonal line bisecting the 14” square from corner to corner.

Measure and mark 14” from the board corner along the diagonal at “B”. Draw a line connecting “B” to corner “C”

(Fig. 1C).

Cut the 135˚ triangle wedge from the board.

(See Fig. 1.)

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to create a second wedge. You need two (2) triangles for each angled corner to fit between two (2) adjacent angled partitions.

Fig. 1

Secure one wedge to the upper portion of the partition 14” down from the top and one to the lower portion of the partition (14” from the bottom). Fasten each wedge to the partition with the panel lying on the floor, using one (1) #8 x 1-1/4” wood screw through a front system hole into the wedge edge and one (2) 4.5 x 60 mm (2-3/8”) Screw through the back system hole. (See Fig. 3.) (As fast caps will not fit over these screws and the system holes, we recommend countersinking these screws into the system holes.) (See overhead view, Fig. 2.)

Flip the assembled partition over on the floor and attach the second partition to the opposite side as in step 4. (See Fig. 4.)

Stand up the assembled unit and position it in its final location on the angled wall corner.

Level the unit and secure it to the two walls, fastening two (2) angle (corner) brackets on each partition near the wedge supports.

OTHER ANGLED WALLS

If the adjacent angled wall is not at a standard

45˚ angle to the square wall, you must toenail together the adjacent angled partitions.

Additionally, please note that if the wall angle on one side turns out to be much wider, conversely, the angle on the other side of the tower connecting with the next wall will be that much smaller. Do not assume the angles on both sides of the tower will be the same size!

Using two (2) adjustable shelves as squares for the partitions, place the rear, unfinished long edges horizontally against the two walls or baseboards.

Place the two partitions (which will meet along their front edges) up against the walls vertically and push them together with the shelves until the inside front edges meet. (See

Fig. 5.) (If the design indicates two adjacent shelf towers at this intersection, you may simply slide the assembled towers together on the adjacent angled walls until the front edges meet.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Fig. 3

Angled Wall Tower - 2

Fig. 2

Fig. 5

Fig. 4

10.Standing on a step ladder, counterbore straight through the vertical partition (at the top of one partition 1/4” from the front edge and 2” down from the top of the partition.

See Fig. 6C.)

11.Holding the two partitions together tightly, screw in one (1) #8 x 1-1/4” wood screw through the pre-drilled hole and into the second partition. (See Fig. 6.)

12.Having secured the partitions at the top, move down on the partition and repeat steps

10 and 11, secure the two partitions together at the mid-height and at the bottom of the partition with the wood screws.

INSTALLING CONTINUOUS TOP SHELF

13.After assembling and installing all towers, begin measuring for the continuous top shelf.

(Cammed top shelves may not be used between angled wall partitions.)

14.Measure along the square back wall to the corner of the angled wall (measurement of

Fig. 7D). Then measure in front of the towers to the corner where the partitions’ front edges meet (measurement of Fig. 7E). Mark these measurements along the respective front and back edges of the top shelf material.

15.Repeat step 14 measuring all walls in front and in back of each tower to establish the angles at which to cut each top shelf.

16.Draw a cutting line between the two measurements on each top shelf. Cut each top shelf as measured (fitting each piece as you go to ensure a tight fit), and attach the top shelf to the partitions using #8 x 1-1/4” screws. (See “Top Shelf and Pole” in

"Shelving/Tower Asssembly" section for further details.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Angled Wall Tower - 3

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Curved Wall

QTY DESCRIPTION

2 Mending Plates per tower section

10 Extra of everything for goofs

Can MasterSuite ® be designed and installed to work on curved closet walls?

Yes…and no. Curved walls are an obvious challenge since all of the design sections are based upon straight lines and 90˚ angles.

If a wall’s curve is too tight, like a wall built around a small, iron spiral staircase, it may be impossible to design or build a hanging or shelf section without obtaining customtooled parts for curved poles or shelves. If the curve is on a much larger radius, there are a number of design possibilities which meet the client’s needs.

QTY DESCRIPTION

1 Ladder

1 Bastard File

1 Countersink Drill Bit

1 Pencil with Big Eraser

1 Jig Saw with sharp blade

1 Loves a Challenge

1 Great sense of Humor

Lots of Patience

1 Stress-reliever mechanism

1 Camera (to capture victory shot!)

Fig. 1

Inside the Bubble (Building on a Concave Curve)

First, let’s examine design and installation possibilities for the concave curve (Fig. 1). Along this curve, depending upon its radius, the best design solution is positioning shelf towers against the curved back wall, with each of the front edges of the partitions touching. Hanging is not an ideal solution, as the contents would bump into one another in front of the towers. Additionally, since double hang or long hang sections use far fewer shelves, the structural integrity of the tower will be more susceptible to torque. Therefore, as it’s more difficult to fasten the towers to curved walls for stability than to flat walls, shelving towers are a better design and installation choice.

A further design and installation consideration is the gap behind the center of each shelving tower.

Depending upon your client’s needs and the radius of the curve, you may need to attach backing to each of the towers on the concave curve to a) maintain stability within the tower, and b) prevent belongings from falling behind the towers into the gap.

Outside the Bubble (Building on a Convex Curve)

Convex curved walls present a different set of design and installation challenges. Do you really want to custom cut up to eight to ten shelves for each shelf tower along a convex curved wall? We don’t recommend it. Not only is it time consuming, but cutting away valuable storage space is not a wise design choice. On the other hand, convex curves are well-suited for double hanging for a number of reasons: It requires a minimal number of shelves to custom cut along the curve, and it utilizes the full wall space side to side and front to back.

The key element to designing double hanging along a convex curved wall is determining the width of each section. Depending upon the radius of the curve, you may find it necessary to space each section approximately 24” apart. If the curve is more gradual, you may be able to space each section up to 30” or 36” apart. We do not recommend spacing a double hang section wider than

36” for stability purposes. In general, the greater the radius of the curve, the wider the section can

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Curved Wall - 2 be made. (See Fig. 2.) See the Installation section of these instructions for details on customizing double hang sections on convex curved walls.

The S-Curve

Designing or installing for an S-curved wall in the closet is a challenge. Your first consideration should be whether or not you truly wish to tackle this plethora of custom work. Our product is the square peg you may be trying to fit in a round hole, so to speak. We do not recommend designing or installing MasterSuite on S-curved walls unless you or your installer are expert carpenters.

Fig. 2

Installation of Double Hang Sections on

Convex Curved Wall

1. Position placeholder shelves on the floor along the curved wall to establish each section. Ensure the center back of each shelf is well-marked and positioned with the back ends of each shelf equidistant from the curved wall

(Figs. 3 and 4).

2. With the placeholder shelves flush in the center to the curved wall, mark the meeting point of the center of the shelf to the center of this section on the curved wall.

3. Place a partition between two shelves exactly equidistant from the two front ends.

Measure the distance between each shelf end and the partition side and adjust its position if necessary (Fig 5).

4. Level the partition vertically along the curved wall.

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

5. Fasten the partition to the curved wall using two plastic angle brackets near the top and bottom on one side (Fig. 6).

Repeat steps 3 – 5 for each partition on the curved wall. For end partitions, position the partition angle at the same distance from the shelf end as the measurement on the opposite shelf end to partition (Fig. 5).

6. Customize the top shelves: To determine the width of your custom top shelf, standing on your ladder measure the distance between the center top edge of your left partition and the center top edge of the right partition. This is the widest (and front) measurement of your shelf.

Position a shelf of this maximum width, centered on top of two fastened partitions, with its back edge center flush with the wall curve apex (center). Make six (6) marks (3 on the shelf, 3 on the wall): the center top edges of each partition on the wall and on the shelf; and the center between the two partitions (the curve apex) and the center of the back of the shelf (Figs. 6 & 7). Use a carpenter’s square if necessary to align the marks. Match all corresponding lines together where they meet.

(Remember, your lines on the back of the shelf need to be long, as part of them will be trimmed away when you cut the back curve of the shelf.) (Fig. 7)

7. Using a pencil and your fingers (or a carpenter’s scribe) to maintain an equal distance from the curved back wall, scribe a cut line along the top of the shelf to match the curve of the wall (Fig. 8).

8. When you’re certain the scribed line will match the curve, cut the shelf with a jig saw from the top. (Remember, you’ll need a sharp blade to reduce melamine chipping as you cut.)

9. Reposition the cut shelf on top of the tower, matching the center line on the wall with the center line of the shelf (Fig. 9). Ensure your center-of-top-edge-of-partition lines still match on top of the partitions the full depth of

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Curved Wall - 3

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

the shelf (Fig. 9). Re-mark the lines, if necessary. Cut these straight lines and replace the shelf to fit (Fig. 10).

10. Test the next section to see if this first custom cut top shelf will fit. If they match, use the first custom top shelf as a template to cut the next one, and so on. If not, repeat steps 6 – 9 for each tower section.

11. Before fastening all custom top shelves to the partition tops, fasten them to one another using mending plates. Next, drill two pilot holes for each shelf end with a countersink bit into each partition top edge.

12. Fasten top shelves to partitions with two screws on each end.

13. To complete the installation, fasten the pole cups in each section and cut the poles to fit.

Remember, since the partitions are at a slight angle, the poles will be fitting into the pole cups at angles, too. They may require extra trimming and care to get them seated firmly in the pole cups.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Curved Wall - 4

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Single & Double-Wide Hutch

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1+ Panel Pack (2 Vertical panels)

3+ Cammed Fixed Hutch Shelves

1 Standard 14" Shelf (for top section)

3 Cleats

OPTIONAL DEPENDING ON DESIGN:

Double-sided Studs (for double-wide unit)

Top Shelf (for double-wide unit)

Edgebanding Tape

Hamper Door and Basket

Cabinet Doors

Baskets

Hutch Jewelry Drawer Insert

Hutch towers may be installed in a variety of configurations, from stand alone to multiple, contiguous, side-by-side units, potentially sharing section-dividing vertical panels. Additionally, there are many potential combinations of doors, drawers and other accessories for both the top and bottom sections.

Each hutch tower is comprised of a minimum of: a set of vertical panels, 3 fixed hutch shelves, and

3 cleats. Hardware is sold separately. A hutch tower may also be complemented with one or more doors, drawers, hampers, or baskets.

See "Drawer" in "Drawer and Door Assembly" section for instructions on assembly of each drawer box. However, for installing drawer slides, please note that the front hole will alignwith system hole, but back hole will need to be drilled. Use appropriate slide template and drill with 5mm self-centering bit. Also, note new 18" deep drawer box, available in 24" or

30" width.

See "Hamper Door", "Tower Door" (in Drawer and Door Assembly"), "Basket" (in "Accessory

Assembly"), and "Toe Kick" (in Shelving/Tower

Assembly) for specific installation instructions on those items.

¢ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

* Hutch drawings may vary slightly from actual product.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Single & Double-Wide Hutch - 2

SINGLE HUTCH

Prior to assembling a hutch unit, ensure the unit will fit over any existing baseboard trim.

(Notch clearance is 5-5/8” high by 1-1/16” deep.) If vertical panels will not fit over existing baseboard, trim to fit before proceeding with assembly.

Place one vertical panel on a protective surface on the floor with its inside facing up. (See Fig.

1A.)

NOTE: Use a blanket or other cloth underneath panels if you are working on a hardwood or tiled floor to prevent scratches on the melamine surface.

Insert 2 screw-in studs

(or double-sided studs, if appropriate for design) for each fixed shelf (Fig. 1A) into the appropriate, corresponding holes in the first vertical panel.

Fit the shelves over the screw-in studs (Fig. 1C).

Fit the cleats/toekick

(Fig. 1D) into appropriate dowel holes and press until snug with the first vertical panel.

Tighten the cams.

Fig. 1

NOTE: If you are installing an adjacent hutch, see "Toe Kick" in Shelving/Tower Assembly" section for instructions on side-by-side toe kick assembly.

Insert the screw-in studs (or double-sided studs) for each fixed shelf into the second vertical panel. (See Fig. 1E.)

5. Lay the second vertical panel with the screw-in studs over the exposed cleat dowels and press together gently, fitting the camlocks over the screw-in studs carefully, until all pieces fit snugly.

Tighten the camlocks. (See Fig. 1F.)

6. Insert and fasten the HiLow screw into each hole provided for the cleats/toekick on one vertical panel. (See Fig. 1G.) Add fast caps over all fastened HiLow screws. Gently roll the

“box” over onto its back and repeat the fastening of screws and fast caps on the other partition.

If you have upgrades or accessories you prefer to attach to the unit prior to standing it up, we recommend you fasten drawer or basket runners now, or door hinges. (See appropriate upgrade or accessory assembly instructions for details.)

Stand up the hutch tower. Place the hutch in its final position in the closet. (This step may require the assistance of a second installer to maneuver the hutch under a soffit and/or around sliding doors in the closet.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Single & Double-Wide Hutch - 3

* Drawing may vary slightly from actual product.

DOUBLE WIDE HUTCH

Double wide hutch towers may be assembled contiguously, separated and supported by a single, vertical panel positioned between towers, or the separating vertical panel can be trimmed so that the hutch “counter” piece is continuous across two or more tower cabinets (as shown at right – Fig. 2).

Since this is not a standard hutch configuration, it is necessary to modify existing materials to create an extra-wide unit. Exactly how much material you trim to fit this custom design depends upon the desired configuration. For example, your client may desire only two (2) shelves spaced 10” apart below the top shelf.

Thus, you would need to trim a thru-drilled middle vertical panel’s top shelving section to create a shelving section. Or, for an 8-foot tall hutch with doors on the upper section, this middle vertical panel would need to be trimmed to match the door height of 36-1/2”.

Additionally, you must ensure this custom trimmed middle panel is cut to align with the system 32 hole pattern for top and bottom fixed shelves. See close up for Fig. 3 for details.

Fig. 2

Prepare one or more separating middle vertical panels using a thru-drilled panel.

First, trim to fit the upper portion of your vertical panel to match your design for shelves or doors (24” or

36” – 8 foot unit only). For,

plus 3/8”

3/8” below

Fig. 3

the center of the nearest system hole

; example, for 24” hutch doors, measure down from the top of the vertical panel, plus 3/8” below the center of the nearest system hole and mark your cut line. (See Fig. 3.)

For other top section sizes, measure the appropriate distance, adding 3/8” from the center of the bottom system hole.

Cut the vertical panel to the dimensions you’ve marked.

Edgeband the visible bottom edge of this upper vertical panel.

Mark and trim the bottom of the middle vertical panel from the bottom end of the panel, above original panel.

plus 3/8” the center of the nearest system hole.

Discard the trimmed middle section of the

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Single & Double-Wide Hutch - 4

* Drawing may vary slightly

from actual product.

Through-drill all assembly holes on these top and bottom panel pieces. (If you are fastening drawer runners or basket slides on either side of this panel, you must thru-drill all holes for mounting runners as well.)

6. Assemble double-wide hutch tower in its final location, following the basic steps in the single hutch assembly above, using the pieces shown at right. This may require a second installer. (See Fig. 4.)

Install the second toe kick per "Toe Kick" instructions in "Shelving/Tower Assembly" section once the double-wide tower is in its final location.

To install double-wide hutch upper section, work from the left to the right. Secure the first upper cleat to the left vertical panel. Next, remove a dowel from the other side of the cleat (bottom dowel is removed in Fig. 5.) Hang the middle upper panel from this cleat using one (1) HiLow screw countersunk through the middle panel into the left cleat. (See Fig. 5.)

Remove the opposite dowel from the second upper cleat

(upper dowel is removed in Fig. 5). Install the second upper cleat into the middle vertical panel (Fig. 5) with one (1) HiLow screw from the right vertical panel into the right cleat.

Fig. 4

10.

Fasten all remaining cleats, toekicks and fixed shelves

to outside left and right panels snugly.

11.

If you have upgrades or accessories with drawer or

basket runners, or door hinges, fasten the runners and/

or hinges. (See appropriate upgrade or accessory

assembly instructions for details.)

12.

Level the hutch tower(s). If necessary add shims underneath one or more vertical panel(s).

13.

Assemble and install the upgrades and/or accessories

(drawers, doors, hampers) in the hutch. Re-level the hutch tower, if necessary.

14.

Fasten the hutch to the closet’s wall with the appropriate screws through the top cleat (Fig. 3).

(See “Working with Different Wall Types” in Installation

Manual for details.)

15. Install the adjustable shelves using safety shelf pins.

Cleat

Hi-Low

Screw

Fig. 5

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Single & Double-Wide Hutch - 5

DOUBLE WIDE HUTCH COUNTER ASSEMBLY

Currently, there is no SKU available for a continuous, one-piece, double-wide hutch countertop.

Below are instructions for creating a continuous countertop using two pieces of 14” top shelving material. You may wish to order a custom, continuous countertop piece to fit your double-wide hutch tower configuration. The dimensions for a custom 48” wide countertop (2- 24” hutch towers) is 48-5/8” w x 20”d x 3/4”h. Ensure the side edges are finished since they are visible on the side of the overlay.

To create a continuous counter top across two or more hutch towers from existing

SKUs, you will need two pieces of 14” top shelf material and matching edgebanding tape.

Measure, mark and cut the front “top shelf”

to fit across both towers. (See Fig. 6.)

NOTE: If you are installing drawers and/or doors in the bottom half of the hutch tower(s), you will need to measure this additional top shelving to meet the fronts of the doors and/or drawers flush along the face. This depth can vary depending upon door/drawer type.

Further, with the top shelf now protruding from the front of the hutch frame, the side cut edges will be visible and require edgebanding. This material varies in thickness depending upon finish. Please measure for your double-wide top shelf dimension to accommodate the thickness of edgebanding on both sides.

Measure, mark and cut the back “top shelf” to fit across both towers butted against the back edge of the front “top shelf.”

Remove any drawers or upgrades underneath which may block access to screw together the new, long top shelving to the

Fig. 6 existing, one-tower wide fixed top shelf. Using #8 x 1-1/4” screws, fasten together the long top shelves to the top fixed shelves, ensuring the front edge of the countertop extends to match flush the door or drawer faces. (See Fig. 6.)

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1+ Toe Kick

4+ HiLow Screws (#2308)

4+ Double Sided Studs

2+ Angle Brackets

Plan ahead when assembling adjoining shelf towers. If you put together all the partitions and fixed shelves of two side-by- side towers before you’ve installed the second toe kick, you’ve got no access to fasten the inside panel. To install adjacent toe kicks, follow these steps:

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Toe Kick

¢ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

1. Assemble the first tower, using HiLow screws to attach the toe kick. (If you have multiple tower toe kicks to install next to one another, you must countersink all the adjacent HiLow screws for the pieces to fit snugly.)

2. Fasten the second tower’s bottom fixed shelf using only the back camlocks over the double-sided studs

(#56534), and tilt the shelf up vertically (like a hinged lid). (See Fig. 1A below.)

3. Now fasten the second toe kick to the outside partition using one (1) HiLow screw. (Fig. 1C.) Use two plastic angle brackets to fasten the toe kick to the “center” (shared) partition. (See

Fig. 1B.)

4. Lastly, lower the fastened bottom cammed fixed shelf to sit on the toe kick. Be sure to add fast caps to exposed HiLow screw heads.

Note: With the toe kick supporting the weight of the front of the bottom fixed shelf, it is not necessary to install the front screw-in or double-sided studs for the camlocks.

Fig. 1

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1 Continuous Top Shelf (12”, 14” or 16”)

1 Shelf/Pole Bracket Set

1 Top Shelf Support (Corbel) – optional

4.5 x 60 mm (2-3/8”) Wood Screws

#8 x 1-1/4 ” Wood Screws

#8 x 1/2” Wood Screws

Easy Anchors

1 Pole

2 Pole Cups OR

1 Shelf/Pole Bracket Set

#10 x 5/8” Self-Tapping Screws

• There are two types of top shelf material: continuous (Fig. 1), using ”scrap material” and cammed (Fig. 2), or using existing

3/4” cammed shelving. These instructions provide the steps for installing both types of top shelving as well as pole installation.

• For continuous shelving that spans more than 8 feet, a second top shelf piece will be required. To adequately support the entire top shelf span split the top shelf length above a shelf tower where the seam will receive the greatest support.

• Continuous top shelving may be supported using shelf/pole brackets, partitions and cleats and corbels and may be used in addition to cammed top shelves.

Installing the Brackets and Pole Cups

For installation of continuous top shelf supported by top shelf and pole brackets, begin by determining the location of the shelf and pole brackets.

Whether or not your top shelf will go above hanging or floor-mounted towers, with or without cammed shelves across the top, position the 4 foot level across a back wall against a corner to establish the location of the shelf and pole bracket. (See Fig. 3.)

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Top Shelf & Pole

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

¢ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Position a right hand shelf and pole bracket in line with the level on the right return wall.

Position the torpedo level on top of the bracket, and level the bracket to both the back of the tower and to the front of the torpedo level. Mark the position of the holes to install Easy Anchors (or other appropriate wall fasteners). (See Fig. 4.)

Set down the levels and bracket and install the Easy Anchors in the marked locations.

Fasten the bracket to the Easy Anchors using

#8 x 1-1/4” screws through the bracket’s two mounting holes.

For installation of an independent pole cup in the lower half of a double hang section on this wall, measure down from the top of the bracket to mark the two holes for the pole cup. (See Fig. 5.)

Set down the pole cup, and screw in two (2)

Easy Anchors in the marked locations for the pole cup. Fasten the pole cup to the wall into the Easy Anchors using two (2) #8 x 1-1/4” screws.

NOTES: If you are installing pole cups or the shelf and pole bracket to a partition, use Euro screws to fasten them to the partition.

Top shelf and pole brackets are not intended for use with a side wall partition, they are designed specifically for use against drywall or other wall surface. Use independent pole cups against side wall partitions.

If no pole will be installed to the side wall and the top shelf and pole bracket is needed only to support the top shelf, the pole cup support section of the bracket can be broken away for a smooth bracket design.

Installing Continuous Top Shelf

After installing the shelf/pole brackets and independent pole cups, determine the size of your top shelf. Measure along the back wall, corner to corner.

NOTE: Many side walls will not be square to the back wall and/or the corners often are slightly built up with additional joint compound from the original wall installation. Always measure both along the back wall and in front of the towers to determine if your top shelf trimming may need to be slightly out of square to provide a snug fit. If the measurements are different (not square) then you will need to mark cut lines on both the front and back edge to match the measurements accordingly.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Top Shelf & Pole - 2

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Carefully lift the top shelf (one end higher than the other) into position, making sure you don’t damage any side walls along the way.

Lower the shelf into place on top of the tower(s).

3. Fasten the top shelf to each bracket using two (2) #8 x 1/2” screws mounted from underneath the bracket. (See Fig. 6.) (If the top shelf is being fastened to hanging uprights and cleats, use #8 x 1-1/4” screws. See Fig. 7.)

Additionally, top shelves should be fastened to all towers using #8 x 1-1/4” screws.

NOTE If the ceiling is less than 8 feet tall, you may need a right-angle drill and a #8 counterbore to fasten the top shelf to the tower(s).

Installing Cammed Shelving

1. Cammed shelving (see Fig. 2) may be installed as the shelf towers are assembled, leaving only gaps for irregularly sized sections and corner connecting shelves when corner shelving components are not used.

2. To create custom cammed top shelving, use new or scrap shelf material cut to the exact dimension required to fit the custom-sized section.

3. If not already installed, add the cams to the custom shelf following the Hettich drilling instructions for each of the four cams.

4. Install the four screw-in or double- sided studs into the four (4) system holes for the cammed top shelf. Fasten the custom cammed top shelf to the studs.

Installing Connecting Top Shelving

1. For multi-wall closet systems, you may install continuous top shelving above the towers or connect cammed top shelving in the corners using the Shelf Joiner (a/k/a H-Channel) to seam the perpendicular joints.

2. To connect 3/4” continuous top shelving material install the full length, wall-to-wall top shelving piece(s) before cutting and fitting the connecting piece.

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Top Shelf & Pole - 3

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

Top Shelf & Pole - 4

3. After installing the full length top shelf, measure, mark and cut the shorter connecting top shelf material, subtracting the lengths of the depth of the full length top shelf and

1/8” to 1/4” for the thickness of the 3/4”

Shelf Joiner. (See exploded view, Fig. 8.)

4. Fit your connecting top shelf into place above the tower(s), sliding the Shelf Joiner between the two perpendicular top shelf pieces.

5. Screw in four (4) #8 x 1/2” screws through the four (4) mounting holes on the underside of the Shelf Joiner.

Installing Corbels

For pole spans wider than 36” support the pole using a corbel.

1. Push two slip-in studs through larger holes in backside of cleat. (See Fig. 9.)

2. Fasten cleat to wall stud using two (2)

4.5 x 60 mm (2-3/8”) screws. (See Fig. 10.)

3. Drill a 1-1/8” hole in the half moon at

10-1/2” from back and 2-7/8” from the top.

(See Fig. 9.)

4. Push cam locks into cam holes in half moon.

(See Fig. 9.) Push cover caps over cams. Push half moon over heads of slip-in studs sticking out of cleat. Tighten cams.

5. Secure corbel to shelf with one (1)

#8 x 1-1/4” screw from above. (See Fig. 11.)

6. To connect 3/4” cammed top shelving material in a corner (see Fig. 8 on previous page), trim a 18” cammed shelf to fit the gap, subtracting the width (1/8” – 1/4”) of the 3/4” Shelf Joiner.

7. Fasten the custom cam shelf to the tower on one wall. Slide the Shelf Joiner between the unconnected end of the shelf and the perpendicular top shelf of the adjacent wall.

8. Fasten the four screws as in Step 5 to secure the connection.

CLEAT

Fig. 9

10-1/2”

CAM

HOLES

2-7/8”

1-1/8”

1. Measure the distance between the inside of the pole cup or bracket mounted to the tower and the inside of the pole cup or bracket mounted to the next tower or sidewall.

2. Cut the pole to fit, using a pipe cutter.

3. Place the pole in the pole cups or brackets.

4. Fasten the pole to the pole cups or brackets using a #10 x 5/8” Self-Tapping

Screw through the slot in the underside of each pole cup or bracket.

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

QTY. DESCRIPTION

Drawer (face, bottom, back and side panels)

Drawer Runners (left and right)

2 or 4 Cam locks (6"H = 2; 10"H = 4)

2 or 4 Screw-in Studs (6"H = 2; 10"H = 4)

4 or 6 #6 x 1/2" Screws (for 14" or 18" deep drawers)

4 Euro Screws

1 Drawer Handle (with included handle hardware)

4 #8 x 1-1/4” Phillips Head Screws

14" or 18" Slide Template (#05-90052 or #05-90053)

• Whenever possible for greatest leverage, mount drawer runners to the side panels (partitions) while panels are lying on the floor (before side panels are mounted in the closet).

• Similar to basket installation, drawers require mounting one fixed shelf above and one below the rack of drawers for stability.

• Drawers (and baskets) should never be mounted behind overlapping sliding doors or in locations where an open drawer may bump into another obstacle.

Attach drawer sides to drawer back with four (4) #8 x 1-1/4” Phillips Head Screws.

Insert the drawer bottom into the slot along the bottom of the drawer sides.

(See Fig. 2.) Push the cam locks into the holes in the drawer sides. Be sure to orient cams so that the open end of the cam faces the hole in the front edge.

Locate your selected drawer front(s).

Choose your handle size and drill a

1/16" pilot hole through each corre sponding dimple on the back of the drawer front. Turn the drawer front over and drill a 3/16" hole for handle at pilot location(s). NOTE: It is important to drill both the pilot hole through the back and the regular hole through the front to prevent chipping.

Attach the drawer handle. (Three sizes of screws are supplied to accommodate drawer front styles.) See Fig. 3.

5. Thread 2 (or 4 for 10" drawer) screw-in studs to drawer front. Attach drawer front to drawer assembly. Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten cam locks.

DOOR & DRAWER ASSEMBLY

Drawer

£ Shelving /Towers

¢ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

128 mm

96 mm

CAM LOCKS

DOOR & DRAWER ASSEMBLY

Drawer - 2

For 14"D drawers, use two #6 x 1/2" wood screws to attach each drawer runner to a drawer side. For

18"D drawers, use three #6 x 1/2" wood screws.

6. Place 14" or 18" Slide template into partition holes

(so arrow points forward) at desired drawer runner location. Use a 5mm Self-Centering Drill Bit to drill holes as marked in template. Attach each drawer runner to partition with two (2) Euro screws.

Use the charts below for standard drawer, basket and hamper door combinations (“A” through “J”).

Start by placing the first set of drawer runners in the first hole above the bottom fixed shelf.

Fig. 4

Then, count holes again for each additional drawer or basket as shown in the chart below.

(See Basket Assembly for basket hole spacing.)

If drawer faces do not align properly, use shims and a level to raise or lower, as appropriate, the relating partitions.

You must install one fixed shelf after every three (3) drawers (as in combo C). For combinations

B, E, F, H, I and J, install the middle fixed shelf below the second drawer. (Middle fixed shelves mount to the holes directly below the immediate drawer runner above.)

* Total Height from center to center of top and bottom fixed shelves.

A B C D E F G H I J

SPACING GUIDE FOR 42” H SECTION

Drawer Spacing (Count Every X Holes) Drawer Spacing (Count Every X Holes)

Height B C D E Height F G H I J

5th

6”

10”

8th

5th 5th 5th

5th 5th

- 5th

8th

- 8th

- -

10” 8th - - -

Total

Height* 36-1/2" 35" 31-1/4" 28-5/8"

6”

10”

Hamper Door -

17" -

5th - 5th -

8th 8th - 8th

8th 8th - - -

- 8th - - -

8th

- -

- 3" Down -

- - - - - -

Total

Height* 32-1/4" 30" 36-1/2" 34-1/4" 40-1/4"

QTY. PART DESCRIPTION

1 Hamper Door (contoured, raised panel or solid wood)

1 17”h x 24”w or 30”w Basket (no slides required)

Door/Hamper Template (#05-90051)

Self Center Drill Bit (#05-11619)

Hamper Door Hardware Kit:

4 Euro Screws

4 #8 x 5/8” Screw s

2 #8 x 1/2" Screws

2 Mounting Plates

2 Hinges

2 Flap Stays

1 Basket Rail

• Hamper Doors must be installed with a fixed shelf at both the top and bottom of the door. The distance from the vertical center of the bottom fixed shelf to the vertical center of the top fixed shelf totals 23-7/8”.

• For toekicks in floor-mounted systems, count holes up from the bottom of each tower, and drill out the second and fourth holes for attaching the nailers, using HiLow screws.

In one hand, hold the Door/Hamper

Template (#05-90051)with the wooden handle flush against the front edge of the bottom, fixed shelf (and against the left or right partition). With your free hand, drill your hinge holes, using the Self Center

Drill Bit, through the Lucite template’s holes. (See Fig. 1.)

Repeat step 1 for the opposite hinge hole locations.

Attach the two hinge plates with premounted screws to the holes in the bottom shelf you drilled in steps 1 and 2.

DOOR & DRAWER ASSEMBLY

Hamper Door

£ Shelving /Towers

¢ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 1

Insert each hinge into a set of three (3) holes on the back of the hamper door, then turn the fastening screw one quarter turn clockwise (as shown with arrows on the hinge) to tighten in place. (See Fig. 2.)

Position the Hamper Door face down on the floor directly in front of the shelf tower.

Mount one flap stay on each side of the door using the enclosed #8 x 5/8” screws. Attach the basket hook (posts up) to the pre-drilled holes in the door using the #8 x 1/2” screws

(required for solid wood doors).

To fasten each hinge to a hinge plate, hold the door with the hinges attached so that the hooks on the back of each hinge latch onto the front, leading edge of the mounted plate

(where the arrow is). Squeeze the two hinge pieces until they snap together. (See Fig. 3.)

(Hinges may be separated by squeezing the

Release Button on the end of the arm.)

Hold the door 90 degrees to the shelving unit until the flap stays have been attached to the partitions in the 7th and 8th system holes

(counting up from the bottom shelf) using

Euro screws. (See Fig. 4.)

Choose your handle size and drill a 1/16" pilot hole through each corresponding dimple on the back of the hamper door. Then, from the front of the door, drill a 3/16" hole for handle at pilot location(s). NOTE: It is important to drill both the pilot hole through the back and the larger hole through the front to prevent chipping. (See Fig. 4.)

Slide the 17” high wire basket onto the basket hook and close the door.

NOTE: Door face may be adjusted left and right by loosening the hinge plate’s fixing screws and sliding the door side to side, then tightening the fixing screws again. The width of the gap between the doors may be adjusted by tightening or loosening the adjustment screw on the front of the hinge arm.

Fig. 2

Release

Button

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

DOOR & DRAWER ASSEMBLY

Hamper Door - 2

Hooks

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1 Set of Cabinet Tower Doors

2 Handles

4 Machine Screws

4 Mounting Plates

4 Hinges

Hole Sleeves & Mounting Bolts ( #56514

Door/Hamper Template (#05-90051)

Door Handle Template (#05-90050)

Self Center Drill Bit (#05-11619)

) – optional

• Cabinet Tower Doors must be installed with a fixed shelf at both the top and bottom of the door set.

• Install all shelves first. Allow 18 holes between shelves for 24" door. Allow

28 holes between shelves for 36" door.

Allow 43 holes between shelves for 55" door.

• The distance from the vertical center of the bottom fixed shelf to the vertical center of the top fixed shelf totals

23-7/8” or 36“ for short and half-size doors, and 55-7/16” for long doors.

• For installation of full length doors, the middle two hinges should be measured, drilled and mounted after the door is mounted to the panel with its top and bottom hinges.

DOOR & DRAWER ASSEMBLY

Tower Doors

£ Shelving /Towers

¢ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Assemble the tower to which you plan to attach the cabinet doors.

In one hand hold the Door/Hamper

Template (#05-90051) against the left or right partition and against the top shelf.

With your free hand, drill your hinge holes, using the 5mm Self Centering Drill

Bit, through the Lucite Template. (Fig. 1.)

Repeat Step 2 for the remaining top location.

Then, hold the template against partition and bottom fixed panel to drill bottom hinge hole locations.

Fig. 1

4. Lift up hinge flap. Insert each hinge into set of three (3) holes on the back of each door. Then, lower hinge flap to tighten and secure hinge in hole. See Fig. 2.)

Attach the hinge plates to each side partition by fastening the pre-mounted screws into the holes you drilled in step 2. Ensure the arrow next to the empty screw hole is pointed towards the door. (See Fig. 3.)

For installation of hinges on a single, shared panel and shared system holes (back to back)

(see front view in Fig. 5), you must remove each mounting plate’s two fastening screws and replace them with #56514 Hole Sleeves and Mounting Bolts (from each side), tightening the bolts from each side of the single panel, same hole into the sleeve.

For normal installation of hinges, fasten the hinge to the hinge plate. To do so, hold the door with hinges attached so that the hooks on the back of each hinge latch onto the front leading edge of the mounted plate (where the arrow is). Squeeze the two hinge pieces until they snap together (see Fig. 3 close up).

Mark hole locations and attach middle hinges for full length doors. (See steps 1-7.)

Gently close the door against the unit.

(Hinges may be separated by squeezing the

Release Button on the end of the hinge arm.)

10. Position the door handle template (#05-

90050) on the door front to align with the bottom edge of inner door panel (raised or flat). Drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the corresponding handle hole(s) on front of door. Turn the door over and drill a 3/16" hole for handle at pilot location(s).

NOTE: Door faces may be adjusted up and down by loosening the hinge plate’s fixing screws and sliding the door up and down then tightening the fixing screws again.

The width of the gap between the doors may be adjusted by tightening or loosening the adjustment screw on the front of the hinge arm. (See Fig. 4)

Fig. 3

Fig. 2

DOOR & DRAWER ASSEMBLY

Tower Doors

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1+ Crown Molding

#8 x 1 1/4” Wood Screw

Mending Plates

#6 x 5/8” Flat Head Screw (#2337)

Multi-purpose Glue Sticks

All standard closet tools, plus…

Ridgid Combo Mitre Box Saw

3M Polygun TC with Quadrack

Converter & PalmTrigger

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Crown Molding

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

¢ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Crown molding installation requires advanced, experienced carpentry skills. If your top shelving isn’t completely level, or if you measure or cut incorrectly, you’ll be returning to the home on another day

to complete this installation.

Here are a few tips to ensure your top shelving and towers are prepped properly for a snug fit with crown molding:

• Complete your closet installation. Do not use

H-Channels. Thus, you must cut top shelving in corners for a tight fit – no gaps.

Fasten mending plates with #6 x 5/8” Flat

Head Screws to secure any corner top shelves to adjacent top shelving sections.

• Most crown molding installations will only require 90˚ standard cross cuts and 45˚ angle cuts to finish tower-top molding (as in overhead view, Fig. 1). On more rare occasions, with angled or curved wall installations, you may be required to cut

22.5˚ angles or other angles to match unusual closet configurations (Fig. 3).

Fortunately, the Ridgid mitre saw (and most other major brand saws) provide notches, presets with lock down saw positions for the most common angle cuts (Fig. 2).

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

• It is essential that your saw blade is maintained in excellent condition to prevent or reduce chipping or ragged edges on these cuts. Always make a test cut on scrap material first to ensure you’ll get a clean cut.

• Measure twice, cut once. Measure twice again, cut once.

• Angle joints are pre-assembled, before mounting the pieces atop the towers and top shelves, using hot glue (Fig. 4). It dries very fast, so it’s important to test the fit in place and have your pieces ready to set together.

• We’re reminding you to carefully plan the number of cuts and the number of pieces required for any given closet design with crown molding. You must consider minor waste factor for lengths you cannot use,and you must consider for seaming (discussed later in these instructions) on any molding lengths of approximately 8 feet or longer.

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Crown Molding - 2

2.12‘’

Fig. 4

1.87 ‘’

Fig. 5

To cut and install crown molding in your design, follow these steps:

1. Measure the top shelf carefully, from point to point (Fig. 6) along the edge where you will install the molding

(distances “A” in Fig. 6).

2. Mark your first measurement, for example, begin left to right in installation of Fig. 6, using the shelf depth as your first cut to mark. From the 90˚ end cut of the panel, mark the distance 14”

in the groove

on the back of the molding

(Fig. 7). (The groove is aligned directly over the front edge of the top shelf.)

Fig. 6

GROOVE

Fig. 7

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Crown Molding - 3

3. Your first cut is the 14” length, with the 45˚ angle at “A” in Fig. 8. Position your molding panel against the saw guard rail, carefully aligning your mark in the groove with the blade and preset notching for a 45˚ angle mitre cut. (See Fig. 9.) (The molding is facing you with the finished side towards your chest. The flat lip [which secures to the top shelf] is flush to the guard rail.)

4. If you haven’t already made a test cut on scrap, cut one now to ensure you’ll have no chipping. You will be cutting from the very top of the molding, down through the thicker part and into the “lip” as the blade lowers.

5. Next, measure and cut the front molding piece going from corner “A” to cut “B”. Since the first piece you just cut left you with a 45˚

“inside right” angle end, you will have to trim it off to make an “outside left” 45˚ mitre cut with which to start the measuring from

“A” to “B.”

If this is confusing, the best way to understand which way the angle cut should go

(outside or inside), is simply hold up the first piece you cut and the next piece you wish to use in place against the tower.

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Are the start and end cuts the correct angle? If not, make a rough mark with your pencil on the back of the molding which way your next cut should go. Here is an example (Fig. 10) of how one 8 foot length of molding can be cut to make the molding pieces for Fig. 8, working from left to right:

Fig. 10

Shown is your first cut (“A”) for the depth of the tower. Next, trim away the excess at 45˚ for the piece between “A” and “B”.

6. In this example, we have designated the “B” angle cut at half of “A”: 22.5

˚.

For purposes of example, the distance from corner “A” to corner “B” is 28”. Be sure you measure and mark this distance

in the groove

of the molding, as shown in Fig. 10. Remember when aligning your molding against the saw blade that the key point of the measurements is where the blade crosses your mark

in the groove

. (See Fig. 10; the blade will pass through this mark on either side of the angle cut.)

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Crown Molding - 4

7. Change the saw preset angle to 22.5˚, as in the second “B” marking in Fig. 10. Check your blade alignment to the mark in the groove.

Make your cut.

8. Test your first two molding pieces in place.

Using a stepstool, hold the pieces in place above the tower. Ensure each length and cut fits EXACTLY to each corner. If either is too short, cut a new piece. If one is too long, trim to fit.

9. Using your glue gun with the two pieces held closely together on a flat surface, apply the hot glue to the joint and squeeze the two pieces together for a tight, perfect match. Glue will set in10 seconds or less.

10. Carefully holding your glued, L-shaped molding configuration in hand, position the pieces in place on top of the tower/shelving. The abutted pieces should keep them standing up straight and not tip forward over the edge.

11. Predrill each screw location to fasten molding to tower/shelving. Screw in the molding through predrilled holes in each corner and along the length where needed (approx. every 12”-14”), using #8 x 1-1/4” screw (Fig. 11).

Fig. 11

12. Repeat measuring, marking, cutting, testing, gluing and fastening steps for each section of molding to install. Always try to put up two (or three) glued pieces at a time for stability.

TIPS:

• Positioning crown molding is easiest when you have two pieces glued together – just like building a house of cards. One piece won’t stand up by itself.

• Always try to use contiguous pieces of molding as you move section by section (left to right or right to left) to best match the wood grain in adjacent pieces.

• To seam together long, continuous pieces, first attempt to match the wood grain of the two pieces at the seam. Next, select the least obtrusive location to position the seam above the long, straight section (For example, above the partitions separating two sections is a less obtrusive position than in the center of a double-hang section or center of a long wall.) NEVER seam crown molding, butting two 90˚ cross cuts.

Always seam to molding pieces using two 22.5˚ angle cuts, as in the overhead view Fig. 12. (This is the smallest angle, which has the greatest stability and creates the least waste material.)

Fig. 12

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1 Basket (6”, 11” or 17”)

2 Slides

4 Euro Screws

• Whenever possible, mount drawer and basket slides to the vertical partitions before tower assembly, i.e. before positioning the partitions in the closet, while the partitions are lying on the floor. (See Fig. 1.)

However, slides can be attached to upright shelf tower partitions when in final position in the closet.

• Baskets must have one fixed shelf installed above and one below a bank of baskets to ensure roll smoothly in slide track.

• Baskets should not be installed higher than

48” from the floor. Most installations will position the top fixed shelf at 42” from the floor.

• To determine slide location, use the spacing guide (next page) to calculate how many holes to count before installing each basket slide.

1. To install slides, first pull black plastic fitting up (Fig. 2 “A”) to release inner slide from extension slides. Second, remove inner slide

(Fig. 2 “B”) and attach it to the partition using two (2) Euro screws per slide (See Fig. 3.)

2. Reattach extentions onto inner slides. (See

Fig. 3.)

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Basket

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

¢ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

positioning the shelving tower(s) in final location, hang basket(s) on clips/hooks (Fig.

4) from second (lower) rim of basket. (Fig. 5 shows close up of clip/hook on basket rim.

Clip/hooks have plastic removable “stays” to hold baskets in place on hook.)

Basket

Height

6”

Spacing

Every X Holes

5th

11” 9th

17” 14th

Fig. 4

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Basket - 2

Fig. 5

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1 Valet Rod with Housing

1 Slide

2 Set Screws

2 Euro Screws

1 Allen Wrench (included)

1. Separate valet rod housing from slide.

Select installation location, and fasten two (2) Euro screws through the corresponding slide holes into the partition using a Phillips head screwdriver. (See Fig. 1.)

NOTE: Telescopic Valet Rod includes two sets of installation holes to align with either the front or back of the partition. You may position the rod to mount flush to the rear of the partition so that the rod

“ball” retracts completely behind the front edge of the partition, or, choose the installation holes that align the housing flush to the front of the partition, leaving the rod

“ball” extended beyond the front edge of the partition.

Slide the telescopic valet rod with housing over the fastened slide. (See Fig. 2.)

Tighten the rod housing’s two (2) set screws to secure the housing to the slide using the

Allen Wrench. (See Fig. 3.)

Telescopic Valet Rod may be extended or retracted as desired. (See Fig. 4.)

Fig. 1

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Telescopic Valet Rod

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

¢ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1 Tie or Belt Rack

2 Euro Screws

• All assembly instructions apply to either tie racks or belt racks. Illustrations below show only the tie rack.

• Tie racks require a minimum of 32” clearance from the top of the rack to another obstacle, such as a shelf or pole below. Belt racks require a minimum clearance of waist inches +

12” in length. If the client’s waist is more than 30”, you should mount the belt rack in a medium or long hang section, or in another access area.

Pull out ball bearing, slide a few inches, and attach it to the partition’s front hole location with a Euro screw. (See Fig. 1.)

Pull rack up vertically over the slide where the screw was just attached.

(See Fig. 2.)

Lower the rack into position, parallel to the floor, so that the slide lines up with the corresponding hole on the rear of the partition. (See Fig. 3.)

Attach the rear of the slide to the aligned rear partition hole using a Euro screw, and then slide the rack back flush to the front edge of the partition. (See Fig. 4.)

Tie Rack

Height

Belt Rack

Height

32” Waist inches + 12”

A large neck size may require additional tie height.

Measure the ties!

Waists larger than 30” require rack mounting in medium or long hang sections.

Fig. 1

Fig. 3

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Tie & Belt Rack

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

¢ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 2

Fig. 4

QTY. PART DESCRIPTION

1+ Shoe fence (for either 24” or 30” shelves)

All standard closet tools, plus…

Shoe fence Template (#05-11818)

Self Center Drill Bit (#05-11619)

Rubber Mallet

Shoe fences and angled shelves must be installed as you are assembling and installing the correlating shelf tower.

A shoe fence should be drilled and fastened together with the shelf before it is installed in the tower. For angled shelving with the fences, fasten the back screw-in studs first, and then secure the front screw-in studs, three holes below the back studs.

Use the Shoe Fence Template to guide your drilling pattern on the top side of the shelf. The template has hole patterns for shoe fence posts to install on both 24” and 30” shelves.

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Shoe Fence

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

¢ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

£ Benches

Fig. 1

1. Place your cammed shelf, face up, on a work surface to drill the hole pattern.

Hold the shoe fence template in place on the top of the front (edgebanded) of the shelf (Fig. 1).

2. Using the Self Center Drill Bit, drill the three holes through the template appropriate to either the 24” or 30” shelf width.

3. Position the shoe fence posts over the drilled holes.

Use a rubber mallet to drive the serrated post extensions of the fence into the holes you just drilled. Be sure to alternate each mallet hammer swing between each end and middle post so that the post extensions fit into the drilled holes straight up and down (and so that you don’t bend the post extensions).

Fig. 2

4. Install the shelf in the tower, fastening the back two cam locks, over the studs at three holes above the height of the front cam locks and studs (Fig. 2). Shelf will rest on front cam locks only.

Do not lock front cam locks. Wipe down shelf.

QTY. DESCRIPTION

1+ Island Kit (2 sides, 1 divider, 4 cam shelves -for top and bottom, and

2 toe kicks for each 1/2 island)

30 Screw-in Studs #56544 (for each half island)

4 #4.5 X 32mm Screws

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Island

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

¢ Islands

£ Benches

These instructions apply to assembly of either

1/2 or full island kits. Each 1/2 island has two facing sides. A full island will have two (2) 1/2 islands connected to make a four facing sided island.

Island units can have many designs, including configurations for shelves, added doors, drawers and baskets. The basic components’ kit consists of the smooth-finished side panels, divider, shelves, and toe-kicks. Heavy-duty countertop is sold separately and is available in either a 1/2 island size of a full island size.

In addition, you must supply the custom design components: adjustable shelves, doors, drawers and baskets to meet the customer’s needs.

LOCATION: As shown in Fig. 1, the basic island, Full (2—25-1/2” sections wide) or Half (1—25-1/2” section wide) must be positioned in the closet or pantry with a minimum of 24” walking space on all sides. More is better!

Islands with drawers or baskets require 30” or more of space between the island and hanging to accommodate the pull-out distance of the drawers or baskets.

Use the dimensions at right as a minimum guide.

Full Island shown (with Bench)

Fig. 1

With both side panels positioned with holes facing up, thread eight

(8) screw-in studs into the predrilled holes across the top and bottom of each panel as shown.

(See Fig. 1a.)

NOTE: Thread all screw-in studs into holes until the stop ring is snug with the partition face.

Thread three (3) screw-in studs into each panel down along the three middle holes as shown. (See Fig.

1b.)

Thread four (4) screw-in studs into each side panel at toe kick location holes. (See

Fig. 1c.)

For optional drawer(s) assembly: Fasten drawer runners (using 2 Euro screws each

- provided with the drawer assembly) to any remaining pre-drilled holes on both side panels.

2. Place divider on side panel (along center screw-in studs) and push cam locks over screw-in studs. (See Fig. 2.) Use a

Phillips screwdriver to tighten all cam locks at stud location. (See Fig. 3.)

Stand side panel/divider assembly upright.

Bring other side panel in so that screw-in studs on side panel fit into cam locks on divider. (See Fig. 4.) Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten cams.

a c b

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Island - 2 b a c

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

4. Bring two top panels down (on each side of divider) onto top screw-in studs in side panels.

Tighten all cams on both facing sides. (See

Fig. 5.)

5. Lay unit on one side panel. Slide bottom panels in (against divider) and over bottom screw-in studs. Tighten cams. (See Fig. 6.)

6. Push toe kicks over screw-in studs at toe-kick locations. (See Fig. 7.) Tighten cams on toe kicks.

7. Stand unit(s) upright. Position units in their final location (side-by-side for Full Islands).

Ensure adequate clearance for walking adjacent to the units and for drawer opening, etc. To create a Full Island, clamp together two units side-by-side ensuring the unit faces are flush. Use two (2) 1” screws to secure two half islands together. (See Fig. 8.) Remove clamps.

8. Lay the countertop on the island unit and square it up. Use 1" screws to attach the island sections to the countertop through the two holes in each top panel. (See Figs. 8 and

9.)

9. Install drawers or baskets into island. Add accessories (doors, adjustable shelves, etc.).

Top

Bottom View

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Island - 3

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

QTY. PART DESCRIPTION

1 10 “ x 24” Drawer (sold separately)

2 Side Panels

1 Bottom Shelf

16 Screw-in Studs (#56544)

1 Middle Fixed Shelf

1 Backing Panel

1 Top Shelf (Seat)

2 #8 x 1-1/2” Screws

Benches are intended for installation against the end of an island unit. It is finished on three sides. However, in lieu of end-of-island installation, the bench could be installed against a closet wall.

Additionally, since the top shelf (seat) is finished along three edges, you could create one large bench with two units positioned back to back.

24" drawers compatible with this bench are sold separately. See “Drawer” in "Drawer and Door

Asssembly" section for instructions on assembling the drawer to insert in the bench unit.

Use the cardboard packaging as a buffer between the room floor and cabinet panels so that you don’t scratch the laminate surface of the panels.

With both side panels positioned with holes facing up, insert all screw-in studs into the pre-drilled holes: 2 screw-in studs at the bottom; 2 screw-in studs for the middle shelf; and 2 screw-in studs for the back panel. (See Fig. 1.)

NOTE: Thread all screw-in studs into holes until the stop ring is snug with the partition face.

For optional drawer assembly: Fasten both drawer runners (using the 2 Euro screws provided with the drawer assembly) to the remaining pre-drilled holes on both side panels.

Position top panel (top panel has rounded edges) with holes facing up and insert four (4) screw-in studs into the pre-drilled holes. See Fig. 2.

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Bench

£ Shelving /Towers

£ Drawers and

Doors

£ Top Shelves and Poles

£ Adjustable Shelves

£ Crown Molding

£ Baskets, Valet Rods,

Tie & Belt Racks, and

other accessories

£ Islands

¢ Benches

17-7/8”h x 26”w x 15-3/4 ”d

(excluding handle depth)

OPTIONAL

DRAWER RUNNER HOLES

Fig. 2

Fig. 1

With the top panel still in place, push both side panels onto screw-in studs. (See Fig.

3.) Use a Philips screwdriver to tighten all cam locks.

Place backing panel down between side panels so cams face out as shown in Fig.

4a). Once backing panel rests on top panel, push forward slightly to fit cams over screwin studs. (See Fig. 4b.) Tighten cams.

Turn assembly over so it rests on backing panel. Place bottom panel down between side panels (so cams face out as shown in

Fig. 5a.) Push forward slightly to fit cams over screw-in studs. Tighten cams.

Place middle fixed shelf between side panels

(so cams face bottom panel as shown in Fig 6.)

Push forward slightlyt to fit cams over screw-in studs. Tighten cams.

Assemble the drawer if you have not already done so.

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

Bench - 2 b

TOP PANEL a

Fig. 3

BACKING

PANEL

TOP PANEL b

TOP PANEL

Fig. 4 a

BOTTOM

PANEL

BACKING

PANEL

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

DESCRIPTION

Rail and Cover

#10 x 2” Washer Hex Head Screws

Left and Right Brackets

Vertical Panels

Cam Fixed Shelves

Adjustable Shelves

Slip In Studs

Screw In Studs

Double Sided Studs

Zip Toggle Bolts

#8 x 5/8” Screws

Easy Anchors

Angle Brackets

#8 x 1-1/4” Screws

Assorted Garage Components…

SPECIAL TOOLS: Right Angle (90-Degree) Drill

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Hanging Cabinets

¢ Hanging Cabinet

£ Drawer Assembly

£ Door Installation

£ Counters & Slat

Wall

Installation of a MultiSuite System and its related components requires skill and familiarity with installation of the floor-mounted and hanging systems for closets.

Proper anchoring of the rail to wall supports, and the brackets to the panels, is essential to successful installation and to ensure your system will bear the heavy weight of the components and the items stored therein. Tall and Base 24” deep cabinets MUST be supported by feet in addition to the rail support system. Feet MUST be installed under

BOTH a vertical panel AND a fixed shelf to prevent possible camlock blowouts from shelves. And all Tall cabinets require a minimum of three (3) fixed cam shelves (top, bottom, middle) for adequate support.

See related assembly and installation instructions for other components of this system, such as drawers and doors.

For best results, review all assembly instructions in advance of installation to ensure you have all parts and tools and to pre-plan for more difficult aspects of the installation.

BRACKET & PANEL ASSEMBLY

• Prior to fastening the brackets to your hanging panels ensure they do not require trimming to fit above a garage mudsill. Shorten, or notch, any panels that may be affected to fit above or around the mudsill. (See Fig. 1.)

• Mount all left and right suspension brackets to the hanging panels prior to installation using two (2) #8 x 5/8” screws through the bracket into the pre-drilled bracket holes.

(See Fig. 2.)

Fig. 1

• Install all leg flanges under all tall and base

24” cabinet panels using the screws provided.

(See Fig. 3.) Flanges should be positioned on 3” centers measured back from the front edge of panels and should be flush to either the left or right outside of a panel section.

(Feet flanges require four total screws. Fasten two of the screws into the bottom edge of outside panels and you will fasten the remaining two screws through the flange into the bottom fixed shelf later in assembly.) Feet flanges MUST be installed under both the vertical panel and the shelf as shown.

• For contiguous panels sharing bottom shelves on either side, install the flange centered on a diagonal so that two screws will fasten into the panel, and one screw each will fasten into the bottom shelf on either side. (See Fig. 9.)

NOTE: You must install an additional center foot under 48” shelving sections, positioned 3” from front edge on center, for adequate support of extra wide cabinet or shelving section.

• Mount all drawer runners, if desired, prior to hanging the panels on the rail.

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Hanging Cabinets- 2

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Determine final rail and cover length.

Total the measurements of the width of all combined shelves, stop-drilled and through-drilled panels on this wall.

(See Fig. 4.)

Next, draw a level line at 79-5/8” from highest point of the floor. (If floor slopes

– mostly likely from rear of a garage to garage vehicle door – begin your level line measurement at 79-1/8” from floor and extend level necessary length.)

For base cabinets on a level floor, draw line at

33-5/8” from the floor. If your design includes a mix of tall and base cabinets, draw your base cabinet line 46” down from the top (tall

Fig. 4

70 and upper cabinet) line to ensure the bottoms of both tall and base cabinets are flush. (See

Fig. 5.)

Mark stud locations along the line(s). Then, mark the location of each vertical panel in the design. Wherever a panel will be hung that is more than 4” to the left or right of a support stud, you must pre-drill 1/2” holes to fasten Zip Toggle Bolts through the rail into the sheetrock.

Depending upon the location of wall studs and your design, it may be necessary to trim the end of the rail to ensure the rail holes (on

1” centers) fall onto the center of each stud.

(See Fig. 6.) Use a hacksaw and file to cut and de-burr the end(s) of the rail accordingly.

Positioning the bottom of the rail flush to the drawn line, fasten the rail to every stud using a

#10 x 2” Washer Hex Head screw. (Use

Tapcons for concrete and cinder block walls.)

Fasten the rail to the wall with a Zip Toggle

Bolt for each panel more than 4” from a stud.

(See Fig. 7.) THE RAIL MUST BE

ANCHORED A MINIMUM OF EVERY 16"

ALONG ITS LENGTH AND NO MORE

THAN 4" FROM ANCHOR TO VERTICAL

PANEL.

Trim the plastic rail cover to fit with a hacksaw, and snap it over the length of the rail.

NOTE: If rail is to be longer than 8’, seam rail cover directly behind a partition to ensure a smooth visible surface.

Hang the vertical panels in their final positions from the suspension brackets on the rail.

10. Fasten all slip-in studs, screw-in-studs and double-sided studs into the system holes for the fixed cam shelves, until the stop ring is snug with the panel face. (See Fig. 8.)

11.Working from one end of your design to the other (left or right), seat and fasten all the

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Hanging Cabinets- 3

Fig. 5

Fig. 6 Fig. 7

Fig. 8

bottom fixed cam shelves between vertical panels. (See Fig. 9.) Tighten each cam lock over a stud head one-half turn clockwise with a Phillips head screwdriver to secure.

NOTE: If installing drawers, substitute 5/8” fixed cam shelf from drawer pack set for standard 1” fixed cam shelf at bottom of vertical panels.

12.

Complete feet flange fastening of remaining two screws per flange into fixed bottom shelves. Insert and screw in all system feet into the flanges. Adjust feet for floor leveling, fitting tightly between floor and vertical panel.

13.

Seat and fasten remaining fixed cam shelves throughout design.

14.

Level section panels using a 4’ level.

(Corner walls may not be level in comparison to panels along the open wall.) Adjust plumb of each panel using the set screw on the bottom of each suspension bracket as needed.

(See Fig. 10.) Adjust the distance of the panels from the wall by tightening or loosening the distance screws. (This step ensures panel front edges are flush for meeting doors and drawers.)

15.

Start on one wall at a corner, if design installation is flush to corner. Then, level and plumb each panel next to your position, working either left or right along the wall to the end of the system.

16.

Secure full length vertical panels (tall cabinets) by fastening an angle (corner) bracket to each panel using #8 x 1-1/4” through the bracket into an Easy Anchor in the wall (or, without

Easy Anchor into a stud.) Then, fasten a #8 x

5/8” screw from through the bracket into the panel. Angle brackets may be installed horizontally on the inside of a tall cabinet for ease of installation.

17.

Install adjustable shelving, drawers and doors.

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Hanging Cabinets- 4

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

DESCRIPTION

Drawer Face(s)

Front Connectors

Steel Side Panels

Drawer Bottom Panel

Drawer Back Panel

Drawer Runners

#8 x 1/2” Pan Head Screws

#8 x 1” Pan Head Screws

Euro Screws

Drawer Face Bumpers

11-5/8” Fixed Cam Shelf

1. Lay one steel drawer side (3) face down on a protected surface. Holding the drawer bottom panel (4) vertically, align two of its pre-drilled holes to the corresponding holes along the drawer side bottom flange.

2. Secure the drawer bottom to the steel side panel, fastening two of the

#8 x 1/2” pan head screws provided through the bottom of the steel side panel flange up into the bottom panel.

(See Fig. 1.)

3. Gently turn over the connected side and bottom panels to the edge and align the remaining drawer side to the corresponding two pre-drilled holes. Fasten the bottom and side panel as in step #2. (See Fig. 2.)

4. Slide drawer back panel (5), with edgebanding facing up, along the inside of the rear metal flanges onto drawer bottom. (See Fig. 3.)

5. Secure the drawer back using two of the #8 x

1/2” pan head screws provided on each side through the back of the steel side panel flange into the back panel. (See Fig. 3 close up inset.)

Secure the drawer back (5) to the drawer bottom (4), fastening the #8 x 1” screw provided through the drawer box bottom up into the edge of the back panel. (See Fig. 3.)

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Drawer

£ Hanging Cabinet

¢ Drawer Assembly

£ Door Installation

£ Counters & Slat

Wall

Fig. 1

Fig. 3

Fig. 2

7. Assemble the connectors to the drawer face.

Place drawer face on a protected surface with handle side down. Align front connector (2) screw holes and pre-drilled holes on drawer face sides. (See Fig. 4.)

Fasten connectors to drawer face using two provided #8 x 1/2” pan head screws for each connector. (See Fig. 5.)

For each of the two larger drawer faces, secure the side panels to the drawer face with two additional #8 x 1/2” pan head screws through the drawer face screw flanges into the correlating pre-drilled holes on the drawer face.

10. Secure the face panel to the drawer box by tightening each connector to the side panels, making one half turn clockwise on each connector cam lock. (See Fig. 6.)

11.

Fasten drawer handles to each drawer.

12.Replace existing 1” fixed cam shelf at bottom of base cabinet with 5/8” fixed cam shelf provided in the drawer pack. (Drawer set will not fit properly with 1” fixed cam

shelf at base of set.)

13.Fasten the drawer runners to the side panels of the base cabinet, if you have not already done so. Use two (2) Euro screws per runner to secure each runner to the panel. (See Fig. 7.)

14.

Runner hole pattern: From the top down,

2nd below top fixed shelf (short drawer);

4th hole below top runner (medium drawer); and 10th hole below runner above for the largest drawer.

15. Slide drawers into runners. (See Fig. 8.)

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Drawer - 2

Fig 5

Fig 6

Fig 4

Fig 7

16.

Make any necessary drawer face adjustments using front connector cam screws. (See Fig.

9.) Drawer faces can be adjusted vertically and horizontally for best alignment.

17. Affix two self-adhesive bumpers per drawer

on the back side of each drawer face.

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Drawer - 3

Fig 8

Fig 9

DESCRIPTION

Door(s)

Handle(s)

Machine Screws

Mounting Plates

Hinges

#6167 Hinge Sleeves and Bolts

(for mounting doors on either side of a shared panel)

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Door

£ Hanging Cabinet

£ Drawer Assembly

¢ Door Installation

£ Counters & Slat

Wall

• These instructions are for use with tall, base or upper MultiSuite cabinets. All cabinets must be fully assembled, leveled and installed in their final locations before installing the cabinet doors. All cabinet doors have pre-drilled hinge holes, but handle holes are not pre-drilled.

• All doors must be installed with a fixed shelf at both the top and bottom of the door.

• Snap each hinge into one of the sets of three holes on the back of the door. (See Fig. 1.) To secure the hinge to the door, turn the fastening screw one quarter turn in the direction shown on the hinge.

• Snap the hinge mounting plates to the ends of each attached hinge. (See Fig. 2.)

Fig. 1 Fig. 2

Position the door against the panel, leveling the top edge of the door flush with the top of the panel. Holding the door open, screw the attached mounting plates into the side panel’s system holes, using the pre-attached plate screws.

For installation of hinges on shared panels and system holes (back to back - see front view in

Fig. 3), you must remove the mounting plate’s two fastening screws and replace them with

#56514 Hole Sleeves and Mounting Bolts

(from each side), tightening the bolts from each side of the same panel, same hole into the sleeve.

Fig. 3

Make any necessary leveling adjustments to doors and hinges using screws. (See Fig. 4.)

Add two bumpers per door to corners.

NOTE: Door faces may be adjusted up and down by loosening the hinge plate’s fixing screws and sliding the door up and down then tightening the fixing screws again.

The width of the gap between the doors may be adjusted by tightening or loosening the adjustment screw on the front of the hinge arm. (See Fig. 4.)

HANDLE INSTALLATION

Door handle holes are not pre-drilled. All three available door handles are based upon 96 mm center-to-center designs, and a hole pattern template is available for order from ClosetMaid.

(Contact customer service.) Recommended handle placement varies between different door profile styles. (See Fig. 5.)

It is recommended to drill handle locations

AFTER doors have been installed on cabinet frames and NOT prior to hinge installation.

Mark location of handle holes using Fig.

5’s measurements as a guide along with the handle template. Drill marked locations.

Attach the handles to the doors through the pre-drilled holes using the #8 x 1-1/4 “ screws enclosed.

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Door - 2

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Counter & Slotwall

DESCRIPTION

Counter(s)

Slotwall(s)

#8 x 1 ” Wood screws

4.5 x 60mm Screws (#2309)

Slotwall Side Cap (#2554 or #2555)

£ Hanging Cabinet

£ Drawer Assembly

£ Door Installation

¢ Counters & Slat

Wall

1. Upon completing installation of all cabinets, drawers, doors and fixed and adjustable shelving, fasten your counter

(1) on top of any base cabinets. (See

Fig. 1.)

2. Counter length may be trimmed to fit with a circular or stationary crosscut saw. (Trim the board from the appropriate facing side to ensure no visible edges are ragged from the saw blade.

File or sand the cut if necessary.)

3. Minor scribing may be necessary along the back edge of the counter if the sheetrock is substantially bowed or warped. However, if slotwall is also being installed above the counter, any gaps may be hidden by mounting the slotwall flush to the counter surface.

4. Extra edgebanding material has been included with each counter in the event your counter requires trimming. Apply replacement edgebanding to exposed edge along visible counter lip after completing all trimming and refitting of the counter.

Fig. 1

5. Fasten the counter top to the base cabinets in each corner from underneath using #8 x 1-1/4” wood screws (3). If necessary, pre-drill each screw hole from the inside of each base cabinet.

(See Fig. 1.)

For installation of multiple, contiguous slotwall panels (2) one above another, begin installation with the bottom panel flush to the surface of the installed counter top. First, trim and level the panel. (See step 2 above for trimming instructions.) If slotwall plastic side caps are to be utilized in the design, be sure to accommodate trim length for thickness of side cap(s).

Mark all wall stud locations in line with slotwall installation. Mark aligned stud locations on the slotwall panel’s top and bottom slots. Pre-drill the 4.5 x 60mm screw locations as marked. Align drilled holes with studs for installation.

MULTI-SUITE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

Counter & Slotwall - 2

Begin fastening leveled slotwall along the bottom slot, using the 4.5 x 60mm screws (4) through the pre-drilled holes into the wall studs. Be sure to fasten the panel to each stud along the panel’s length.

Fasten any additional slotwall panels, following the installation steps 2. and 3. above, by fitting the bottom edge slot over the panel below’s “tongue” for a seamless fit.

Fasten any slotwall plastic side caps (5) to panel edge’s if desired.

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INSTALLER'S

ASSEMBLY, INSTALLATION

&

REFERENCE GUIDE

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION

SHELVING/TOWER ASSEMBLY

DRAWER AND DOOR ASSEMBLY

ACCESSORY ASSEMBLY

MULTISUITE ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION ORDER – DELUXE REACH-IN CLOSET

Assemble or Install

Tower Assembly

Drill Drawer Runner

Holes

Accessory Hardware

Position Tower in closet

Drawers

Tower & Hamper Doors

Uprights

Top shelf and fixed double hang shelf

Poles

Shelf pins and adjustable shelves

Crown Molding

Remaining Accessories:

Baskets, Tie/Belt Racks,

Valet Rods

Wipe down and clean

INSTALLATION ORDER – DELUXE WALK-IN CLOSET

Assemble or Install

Steps 1. – 13.

Island/Bench Units

Wipe down and clean

INSTALLATION ORDER – MULTISUITE CABINET SYSTEM

Assemble or Install

Cabinet Assembly

Drawers

Doors

Adjustable Shelves

feet

Countertop & Slot Wall

Wipe down and clean

INSTALLATION APPOINTMENT ORDER

Assemble or Install

Arrival

Inspect Site

Unload Product and

Tools

Tearout

Install Closet Product

Clean Closet

System(s)

Vacuum

Customer Review and

Payment Collection

Remove Waste and

Tools

IMPORTANT!

THE NEW MASTERSUITE

3/4” PRODUCT LINE HAS

FOUR (4) NEW TEMPLATES!

”

”

Mitered cut and edgeband

SINGLE HUTCH

DOUBLE WIDE HUTCH

plus 3/8”

the center of the nearest system hole

plus 3/8” the center of the nearest system hole.

DOUBLE WIDE HUTCH COUNTER ASSEMBLY

A B C D E F G H I J

SPACING GUIDE FOR 42” H SECTION

in the groove

in the groove

in the groove

TIPS:

Tie Rack

Height

Belt Rack

Height