Manual as pdf

PURE CYCLING

BICYCLE MANUAL ROAD BIKE

Attention!

Assembly instructions page 12. Before your first ride please read pages 7-11.

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Your bicycle and this bicycle manual comply with the safety requirements of the European standard

EN 14781 for road racing bicycles.

COMPONENTS

1 Frame: a Top tube b Down tube c Seat tube d Chainstay e Rear stay

2 Saddle

3 Seat post

4 Seat post clamp

5 Rear brake

6 Cassette sprockets

7 Front derailleur

8 Rear derailleur

9 Chain

10 Chainring

11 Crank set

12 Pedal

13 Stem

14 Handlebars

15 Brake/shift lever

16 Headset

17 Front brake

18 Fork

19 Drop-out

Wheel:

20 Quick-release

21 Rim

22 Spoke

23 Tyre

24 Hub

25 Valve

GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL

PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE FOLLOWING SYMBOLS:

Please note that the aforementioned consequences will not be repeated each time the symbols appear in the manual.

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This symbol warns you about actions that could lead to damage to property or the environment.

This symbol indicates an imminent risk to your life or health unless you comply with the instructions given or take preventive measures.

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This symbol signifies information about how to handle the product or refers to a passage in the operating instructions that deserves your special attention.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2 Welcome

4 Intended use

7 Before your first ride

10 Before every ride

12 Assembly from the BikeGuard

22 Packing your Canyon road bike

23 How to use the quick-release

23 How to securely mount the wheel

25 What to bear in mind when adding components or making changes

26 Special characteristics of carbon

27 Special features of carbon wheels

28 Care instructions

29 Special features of triathlon, track bikes and time trial machines

31 After an accident

33 Framesets – assembly technical data

38 Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider

39 Adjusting the saddle to the correct height

41 Adjusting the height of the handlebars

42 Aheadset ® -stems or threadless system

44 I-lock system

46 Fore-to-aft-position and saddle tilt

47 Adjusting saddle position and tilt

51 Handlebars and brake lever adjustment

51 Adjusting the handlebar position by turning the handlebar

52 Adjusting the brake lever reach

53 The pedal systems

53 Different systems at a glance – how they work

55 Adjustment and maintenance

56 The brake system

57 Road bike rim brakes

57 Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear

58 Checking and readjusting road bike brakes

58 Checking the brake system

58 Vertical adjustment of the brake pads

59 Readjusting and synchronising the side-pull brakes

60 Mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes in the case of cyclocross bikes

60 Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear

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Adjusting the brake lever reach

Checking and readjusting in the case of mechanical disc brakes

62 Checking and readjusting in the case of hydraulic disc brakes

64 The gears

65 The gears - How they work and how to use them

67 Checking and readjusting the gears

67 Rear derailleur

68 Adjustment of limit stops

70 Front derailleur

71 Shimano Di2

73 Chain maintenance

74 Chain wear

75 Adjusting the chain tension of single speed bicycles

76 The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure

79 Rim trueness, spoke tension

81 Repairing punctures

81 Wheel removal

82 Removing clincher and folding tyres

83 Mounting clincher and folding tyres

85 Removing tubular tyres

85 Mounting tubular tyres

89 Mounting wheels

90 The headset

90 Checking and readjusting

91 Threadless headset: Aheadset ®

92 I-lock headset

94 Transport of your Canyon bike

96 General notes on care and inspection

96 Washing and cleaning your Canyon

98 Safekeeping and storing your Canyon

99 Servicing and inspection

102 Service and maintenance schedule

104 Recommended tightening torques

107 Legal requirements for riding on public roads

108 Warranty

110 Guarantee

111 Crash Replacement

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WELCOME

DEAR CANYON CUSTOMER,

In this manual we have compiled for you lots of tips on how to use your Canyon road bike, instructions for maintenance and care, plus a wealth of things worth knowing on bicycle technology. Please read this manual thoroughly.

Note that the instructions and tips may require further explanation depending on various factors, such as the experience and skills of the person doing the work or the tools being used, and some jobs may require additional (special) tools or measures not described in the manual.

You will find it worth your while; even if you have cycled all your life and feel like a veteran with your new bike. Bicycle technology has developed tremendously over the past few years.

For your enjoyment and safety when cycling, please read the complete first part of this manual thoroughly and

strictly follow the assembly instructions given in chapter “Assembly from the BikeGuard“.

read chapter “Before your first ride“ and

see chapter “Intended use“ to read up on how to use your new road bike and on the permitted overall weight (rider, clothing and baggage) and

carry out the minimum functional check before every ride. For more details on how to proceed, read chapter “Before every ride“ of this manual. Do not ride your bike unless it has passed the functional check one hundred per cent!

Furthermore, you will find plenty of service information on our website www.canyon.com that will help you carry out small repair and maintenance works.

For your own safety, never do work on your bicycle unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact our service hotline +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

Please note: This manual cannot teach you all mechanical skills. Even a manual as big as an encyclopaedia could not describe every possible combination of available bicycles and components. For this reason this manual focuses on your newly purchased bike and standard components by drawing your attention to important notes and warnings. It does, however, not teach you the basic skills of a bike mechanic or help you assemble a complete bike from the Canyon frameset.

This manual cannot teach you how to ride. For this reason it focuses on your newly purchased bike by drawing your attention to the most important notes and warnings. This manual cannot teach you riding a bike or make you familiar with the traffic rules.

On the digital data medium enclosed with this manual you will find a number of maintenance and repair routines in detail. When carrying out these routines, be aware that the instructions and information provided in your manual only refer to this Canyon road bike and that they do not necessarily apply to other bikes. Due to numerous designs and model changes, it may be that some of the routines are not described in every detail. For this reason be sure also to observe the operating instructions of our component suppliers enclosed with the BikeGuard.

Please be aware that cycling is a hazardous activity that requires that the rider stays in control of his or her bike at all times.

Like any sport, cycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bike, you assume the responsibility for the risk.

WELCOME

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Always keep in mind that you have no protection technique around you, which could avoid injuries, such as e.g. the bodywork or the airbag of a car.

Therefore, always ride carefully and respect the other traffic participants. Never ride under the influence of drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are tired. Do not ride with a second person on your bike and never ride without having your hands on the handlebars.

Before you set off please note: Always ride carefully so as not to endanger yourself or others. Please respect nature when touring through forests and meadows. Make it a habit to only ride with appropriate equipment. At least you should wear a properly adjusted bike helmet, sturdy shoes and suitable, bright coloured clothing.

Your Canyon team wishes you lots of fun and enjoyment with your bike!

On the road

Always with helmet and glasses

This manual does not help you to assemble a bicycle from individual parts or to repair it! Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to change. This manual conforms with the requirements of the CE-standard EN 14781. This manual is subject to European legislation.

On delivery of the bike, the manufacturer has to attach additional manuals. Please visit www.canyon.com for supplementary manuals.

Concept, text, photos and graphic design:

Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH www.zedler.de

Revised in July 2013, edition 6

© No part of this brochure may be published, reprinted, translated or reproduced in extracts or with electronical systems or used for other business purposes without prior written permission of the author.

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Please visit our website at www.canyon.com.

There you will find the latest news, useful tips as well as the addresses of our distribution partners.

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For your own safety, never do any assem- bly or adjusting work on your bike, unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are unsure about anything, please call our service hotline

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582. E-mail: [email protected]

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INTENDED USE

INTENDED USE

To define the intended purposes for the different types of bicycles, we have classified our bikes in different categories. The purpose of this classification is to define the test requirements complying with the respective stress as early as during the development of our bikes. This is to ensure the highest possible level of safety for the use of our bikes.

It is therefore of major importance that the bikes are not used under conditions beyond the intended use, as this bears the risk that the bikes’ maximum load is exceeded and the frame or other components are damaged. This can result in severe crashes.

The rider’s maximum weight incl. baggage should not exceed 120 kg. Under certain circumstances this permissible maximum weight can be further limited by the component manufacturers’ recommendations for use.

The frame of your bike is marked according to one of the following symbols indicating the category your bike belongs to. If you are not sure about the category your bike belongs to, please contact our service centre.

Condition 0

This category is intended for childrens’ bicycles.

Children should not ride near precipices, staircases or swimming pools as well as on paths used by automotive mobiles. In general, this applies to bicycles with wheel sizes of 12 to 24 inches.

Condition 1

Bikes of this category are designed for riding on hard-surface roads where the wheels remain in permanent contact to the ground. These are in general road racing bicycles with racing handlebars or straight handlebars, triathlon or time trial bicycles.

The rider’s maximum weight incl. baggage should not exceed 120 kg. Under certain circumstances this permissible maximum weight can be further limited by the component manufacturers’ recommendations for use.

Condition 2

Bicycles of category 1 and bicycles designed for well paved gravel paths and off-road trails with a slight slope where a short loss of tyre contact with the ground due to small steps can occur. This condition comprises urban and city bicycles as well as cyclocross bikes with road racing handlebars and cantilever or disc brakes.

Condition 3

Bikes of this category comprise the bicycles of the categories 1 and 2 and are in addition suitable for rough and unpaved terrains. Sporadic jumps of a maximum height of approx. 60 cm are also included in the field of use of these bicycles. But inexperienced riders doing jumps of this height may land inappropriately, thus increasing the acting forces significantly which may result in damage and injuries. This category is represented by MTB hardtails and full suspension bicycles with short suspension travel.

Condition 4

This category includes bikes of the categories 1 to 3.

In addition, bicycles of this category are suitable for very rough and partly blocked terrain with steep slopes and higher speeds as a result thereof. Regular, moderate jumps by experienced riders are no problem for these bicycles. The regular and durable use of the bicycles on North Shore trails and in bike parks should, however, be excluded. Due to the higher stresses, these bicycles should be checked for possible damage after every ride. Full suspension bikes with medium suspension travel are typical for this category.

INTENDED USE

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INTENDED USE

Condition 5

This type of use stands for very challenging, highly blocked and extremely steep terrains, which can only be mastered by well-trained riders with technical skills. Rather high jumps at very high speeds as well as the intensive use of specific, identified bike parks or downhill trails are typical for this category.

In the case of these bicycles it must be considered that a thorough check for possible damage is carried out after every ride. Preliminary damage with clearly inferior further stress can result in failure. A regular replacement of safety-relevant components should also be taken into account. Wearing special protectors is strongly recommended. Full suspension bikes with long suspension travel as well as dirt bikes are typical for this category.

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Canyon bikes are not approved for mount- ing child carriers.

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These bikes are not approved for towing child trailers.

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Keep yourself informed by visiting our al- ways updated website at www.canyon.com.

There you will find an illustration visualising the intended use of all Canyon bikes.

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Mounting a pannier rack is not permitted.

The only way of riding with baggage is by using a special backpack.

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Read in any case the supplementary

Speedmax user manual that you got when you bought a Speedmax CF Evo.

BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE

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BEFORE YOUR

FIRST RIDE

1. Have you ever ridden a road, time trial, triathlon or track bicycle? Please note that these are sports bikes. You need to get used to them and to practise on them. Make yourself gradually familiar with your new bike in an unfrequented area and approach the riding characteristics step by step.

Attend a riding technique course. For more information visit www.canyon.com

2. Are you familiar with the brake system? Canyon bikes are normally delivered with the left brake lever operating the front brake. Check whether the lever of the front brake is in the position you are used to. If it is not, you will need to train to get used to the new configuration, as inadvertent use of the front brake can throw you off your bike! Have the lever-to-brake assignment changed by an expert.

Full braking; do not imitate

Note that the assignment of brake lever to brake caliper can vary from country to country. Check the brake assignment. If it does not comply with your habits, we recommend you having an expert change the lever-to-brake assignment!

Your new bike is equipped with modern brakes which may be far more powerful than those you are used to! Be sure to first practise using the brakes off public roads! Do approach the maximum possible deceleration gradually. For more information about the brakes, read chapter “The brake system“.

3. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears? If not, make yourself familiar with the gears in a place clear of traffic. Make sure not to shift gears on the front and rear derailleur at the same time and not to pedal with too much force when shifting. For more information about the gears, read chapter “The gears“.

Derailleur gears

If you hold your handlebars by aerobars

(triathlon handlebars), you cannot reach the brake levers as quickly as you would from other positions, and your stopping distance therefore becomes longer. Look well ahead as you ride and be prepared for longer stopping distances.

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BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE

4. Are frame size, saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? Stand over the top tube of your bike and check whether there is a clearance of 2 to 3 fingers at least between the top tube and your crotch.

If there is not, contact our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582. Riding with a too big frame may cause injuries, when getting off your bike quickly! The saddle should be set to a height from which you can just reach the pedal in its lowest position with your heel. Check whether your toes reach to the floor when you are sitting on the saddle. For more information about the saddle position, read chapter “Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider”.

Checking the clearance between top tube and crotch

5. Have you ever tried clipless or step-in pedals and the shoes they go with? Before riding with clipless pedals for the first time, carefully practise locking one shoe onto a pedal and disengaging it while the bike is stationary. Lean against a wall when practising so that you do not topple over. Adjust the locking and release mechanism, if necessary. Be sure first to read the enclosed operating instructions which you will find enclosed. For more information about the pedals, read chapter “The pedal systems”.

Shoes for step-in pedals

Step-in pedal

A lack of practice when using clipless pedals or too much spring tension in the mechanism can lead to a very firm connection, from which you cannot quickly step out! Risk of an accident!

BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE

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6. Note that you should only use your Canyon for its intended purpose! Road and triathlon bikes are only intended for use on roads and lanes with a smooth, e.g. tarred or paved surface.

Track bicycles are true-bred sports bikes and only intended for use on enclosed race tracks. The use of track bicycles on public roads or lanes is not permitted.

In general, Canyon road bikes are designed for an overall load (rider and baggage) of 120 kg. With road bikes equipped with Mavic system wheels the permissible overall load is 100 kg. Make sure not to exceed these limit values. For more information about the use, read chapter “Intended use”.

7. Are parts of your Canyon bike made of carbon?

Please note that this material requires special care and particular use. In any case, be sure to read chapter “Special characteristics of carbon”.

Canyon race machines are designed for riding on tarred roads

Track bike V-Drome

Carbon

Canyon road, time trial, triathlon or track bikes are high-end sports equipment, representing lightweight construction as pinnacle of engineering. Also be a professional when it comes to handling of the material. Misuse, unprofessional assembly or insufficient servicing can render the racing machine unsafe. Risk of an accident!

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BEFORE EVERY RIDE

BEFORE EVERY RIDE

CHECk THE FOLLOWING POINTS BEFORE EVERY

RIDE:

1. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear wheel, seat post and other components properly closed? For more information, read chapter “How to use the quick-release”.

2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure? Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Also look out for tyres with ruptured sides or broken axles or spokes while you do this. For more information, read chapter “The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure”.

3. Test the brakes while standing by firmly pulling the brake levers towards the handlebars. A pressure point should be reached after the lever has only travelled a short distance; the lever must, however, not touch the handlebars! The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim with their entire surface.

They must not touch the tyres. For more information about the brakes, read chapter “The brake system“.

Check the tyre pressure

You should not be able to pull the brake lever all the way to the handlebars

Improperly closed quick-releases can cause bicycle components to come loose.

Risk of an accident!

Do not use your Canyon, if it fails on one of these points!

BEFORE EVERY RIDE

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4. If you intend to ride on public roads or in the dark, check the lighting set, see chapter “Legal requirements”.

5. Let your Canyon bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is any rattling, see where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolted connections, if necessary.

6. The major accessory for a successful cycling tour is a small tool bag fitted underneath the saddle.

The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers, the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone and a little cash. Do not forget a tyre pump mounted to the frame.

7. Take a sturdy lock with you, if you intend to leave your Canyon in a public area. The only way to protect your Canyon against theft in a public area is to lock it to an immovable object!

Never ride without lighting in the dark

Emergency kit

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To safe your Canyon from damage, please observe the maximum overall load and the regulations regarding the transport of baggage and children given in chapter “Intended use”. Furthermore, we recommend reading chapter “Transport of your Canyon bike” before transporting your

Canyon road bike by car or plane.

During use your Canyon is undergoing stress resulting from the surface of the road and the rider’s action. Due to these dynamic loads, the different parts of your bike react with wear. Please check your Canyon regularly for wear marks as well as for scratches, dents, bent parts and incipient cracking. Components that have passed their normal service life may suddenly fail. Have your Canyon inspected regularly so that components can be replaced, if necessary.

For more information on maintenance and operational safety, read chapters “General notes on care and inspection”, “Recommended tightening torques” and “Service and maintenance schedule”.

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ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

ASSEMBLY FROM THE

BIKEGUARD

Assembling the bike from the BikeGuard is no witchcraft, but you should proceed with care and deliberation. Unprofessional assembly can render the bike unsafe.

First we should like to make you familiar with the various components of your Canyon.

Unfold the front cover of this manual. Here you will find the illustration of a Canyon road bike showing all the essential components. Leave the page unfolded as you read so that you can easily locate the components as they are referred to in the text.

CHECk THE CONTENTS OF THE BIkEGUARD

The BikeGuard contains the assembled frame with all add-on parts as well as the wheels that are sometimes packed in wheel bags, the saddle and a box with small parts, e.g. quick-releases, reflectors and pedals, as the case may be.

UNPACkING

ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

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ROAD BIkE ASSEMBLY

Undo the saddle from the BikeGuard. Remove first the protective film, if available, from the seat post.

The following section gives you a concise description of the assembly. In the event you are neither skilled nor experienced in that kind of work, please read the more detailed chapters of this manual further below or read up on this matter on the enclosed CD.

The illustration shows an arbitrary Canyon road bike

– this is not what every bike will look like. First, open the BikeGuard. This is best done by using a box cutter.

Remove the padding (cardboard boxes), if available, and take the wheels that are sometimes packed in wheel bags out of the BikeGuard.

When using a box cutter make sure neither

Make it a rule to cut away from you and the component!

to damage the component nor yourself.

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The easiest and safest way to assem- ble the bike is when you use a workstand or ask someone to help you.

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Keep the entire packaging material as well as the BikeGuard in a dry place. If you intend to dispatch your Canyon or to take it with you on a trip, you will have everything at hand.

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You will not find the wheels packed in wheel bags in every BikeGuard.

Lift the frame carefully off the BikeGuard and take out the cardboard box with the small parts that you will find on the bottom or side of the BikeGuard.

Clamp your Canyon only with the aluminium seat post into the workstand or ask a helper to hold your Canyon during the assembly.

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Hold the handlebars tight while lifting the frame out to avoid that it drops and gets damaged.

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Do not clamp a frame tube or a carbon seat post of your Canyon in the holding jaws of the workstand!

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Assemble your Canyon by using the

Canyon torque wrench enclosed with the

BikeGuard.

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ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

MOUNTING THE SADDLE

ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

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HANDLEBAR MOUNTING

Release the seat post binder bolt at the seat tube.

Read chapter “Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider” beforehand. Before mounting the seat post on the frame make sure the seat tube is absolutely free of sharp edges and burrs.

Slide the seat post into the seat tube to the desired saddle height. Bring the saddle into alignment and do not overtighten the seat post binder bolt.

SPECIAL CASE CANYON SPEEDMAx

Apply a little Canyon assembly paste on the bottom part of the seat post and inside the seat tube.

Release the clamping bolts of the stem face plate and remove the face plate.

Clean and deburr the seat tube, if necessary. You should be able to insert the seat post easily into the frame without pressing or turning. Apply a thin layer of Canyon assembly paste into the seat tube and on the seat post.

Some Canyon models (e.g. Speedmax CF and Speedmax AL) have an oval shaped seat post. Mounting another than the standard seat post is therefore impossible. Release both Allen bolts at the seat post clamp.

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Be sure to read the notes given in chap-

“Adjusting the saddle to the correct height” as well as the permitted torques in chapter “General notes on care and inspection” and follow the operating instructions of the component manufacturers, as well.

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Do not clamp a frame tube or a carbon seat post of your Canyon in the holding jaws of the workstand! This could crush the tubes!

It is recommended that you use a workstand which holds the frame at three points from inside or which holds the fork and bottom bracket shell

Slide the seat post in the seat tube to the desired saddle height and tighten both Allen bolts at the seat post clamp with a torque wrench.

Remove the protective film and sleeves from the shift levers on the handlebars. Hold the handlebars tight while you do this so that they do not drop and get damaged.

It is recommended that you remove the protective material in general by hand. In case you do not succeed, carefully use a box cutter or a pair of scissors.

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Never exceed the maximum tightening torques! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended tightening torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

When using a box cutter make sure neither to damage the component nor yourself.

Make it a rule to cut away from you and the component!

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ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

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Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem clamp. Take care that the bowden cables are not twisted or bent, but run in a smooth curve to the cable stops or brakes. Retighten the clamping bolts until they lightly hold the handlebars in place. Do not finish mounting the handlebars until you have mounted the wheels.

WHEEL MOUNTING

Take the quick-release for the front wheel out of the small part box. Release the counternut and remove one of the springs from the quick-release skewer.

Tighten up the counternut of the quick-release until the quick-release lever builds up force when closed.

Close the quick-release. Read up on quick-releases in chapter “How to use the quick-release”; also observe the enclosed operating instructions of the component manufacturers.

Mount the front wheel by sliding the quick-release through the drop-outs and close the quick-release.

Read chapter “How to use the quick-release” beforehand.

FRONT WHEEL MOUNTING

Remove the front wheel from the wheel bag and take off both protective caps from the front wheel axle.

Insert the quick-release into the hollow front wheel axle. Make sure there is one spring on either side of the hub. When mounting the springs on either side of each wheel, make sure their small-diameter ends face the hub.

The quick-release lever is mounted to the left side, i.e. opposite the chain drive.

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Assemble your Canyon by using the

Canyon torque wrench enclosed with the

BikeGuard.

Open the front brake by releasing the release lever at the brake (Shimano, SRAM) or by displacing the pin in the shifter/brake lever (Campagnolo) to allow the lever to tilt back a little.

Re-close the release lever of the brake (Shimano,

SRAM) immediately or move the bolt at the shift/brake lever back to its original position (Campagnolo).

Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the dropouts and accurately centred between the fork legs.

Make sure the quick-release lever and the drop-out safety-tab are properly closed. Verify that the brake is accurately centred with regard to the rim.

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For more information about road bike brakes, read chapter “The brake system“.

Check whether the brake pads hit the braking surfaces of the rims with their entire surface. For more information read chapter “The brake system”.

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ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

REAR WHEEL MOUNTING

ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

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Open the quick-release at the rear axle, remove the board and pull the quick-release out of the board.

Proceed as you did with the front wheel. Verify, in this case as well, the correct position of the small springs.

Read up on quick-releases in chapter “How to use the quick-release”.

Open the rear brake by releasing the release lever at the brake (Shimano, SRAM) or by displacing the pin at the shift/brake lever (Campagnolo) to allow the lever to tilt back a little.

Close the quick-release and verify that the wheel is securely fixed. Read chapter “How to use the quick-release” beforehand.

Check whether both wheels are properly seated in the drop-outs and whether they run accurately in the centre between the fork arms and rear stays, respectively. Spin both wheels to make sure they run true. For more information, read chapter “The wheels

- tyres, inner tubes and air pressure”.

Remove the protective film from both chainstays as well as the tape at the drop-out, if available.

It is recommended that you remove the protective material in general by hand. In case you do not succeed, carefully use a box cutter or a pair of scissors.

Actuate the right shift lever as often as the rear derailleur is in its outermost position. Pull the rear derailleur slightly to the rear, position the chain on the outermost sprocket and mount the rear wheel. Verify that the wheel is accurately centred between the drop-outs.

When using a box cutter make sure neither to damage the component nor yourself.

Make it a rule to cut away from you and the component!

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For more information about road bike brakes, read chapter “The brake system“.

Re-close the release lever of the brake (Shimano,

SRAM) immediately or move the bolt at the shift/ brake lever back to its original position (Campagnolo).

Check the proper functioning of the gears. Shift through all gears and make sure the rear derailleur does not collide with the spokes when the chain runs on the largest sprocket. Read up on how to adjust the gears in chapter “The gears“.

Check whether the brake pads hit the braking surfaces of the rims with their entire surface.

After the wheel mounting do a brake test in stationary. Actuating the brake lever should generate a clear-cut braking response before the lever touches the handlebars.

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ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

MOUNTING THE PEDALS

ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

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CHECkING AND ADjUSTING

Before mounting the pedals, check the marking on the pedal axles first. “R” stands for right pedal and “L” for left pedal. Note that the left pedal has a left-handed thread that has to be tightened contrary to the direction you are accustomed to, i.e. anticlockwise.

Screw each pedal manually into the thread of its crank by two to three full turns. Continue by using a pedal spanner to tighten the pedals firmly.

Adjust the position of the saddle and handlebars and check that the handlebars, grips and seat post are securely fastened, as described in chapter “Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider”.

Tighten the seat post binder bolt, when you have found the desired saddle height. Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder bolt and observe the recommended tightening torques.

Apply a little grease on the pedal threads before screwing in the pedals.

Some pedal types have to be tightened with an Allen key.

Fix the white reflector to the handlebars and the red reflector to the seat post as well as the spoke reflectors.

Check the reliable fit of the pedals after about 100 km (60 miles). Pedals can come loose, and this can destroy the thread and throw the rider off his bike. Also check the reliable fit of the other bolts according to the prescribed tightening torques.

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Read up on the road traffic regulations in the country where you use the road bike.

Slide your seat post into the seat tube beyond its minimum mark and make sure its end reaches beyond the top tube.

Never ride your Canyon with the minimum mark of the seat post being visible.

Inflate both tyres to the maximum pressure indicated on the side of the tyres. Read up on tyres and inner tubes in chapter “The wheels”. Finish the assembly by carrying out thoroughly the tests described in chapter “Before your first ride”.

Check the reliable fit of all bolts once again according to the prescribed tightening torques after 100 to 300 km (60 to 180 miles).

For more information, read chapters “General notes on care and inspection”, “Recommended tightening torques” and “Service and maintenance schedule”.

After completing the assembly and checks it is essential to give your Canyon a test ride in a level, unfrequented area (e.g. in a parking lot)! Wrong assembly or improper adjustments that become apparent in road traffic or during off-road use can make you lose control of your Canyon!

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PACKING

PACKING YOUR

CANYON ROAD BIKE

If you have to pack your Canyon, e.g. to send it in for servicing to our workshop, or if you want to take it with you on holidays, you must bear in mind a few things to bring your bike safe and sound to destination.

Your BikeGuard contains the packing instructions

„How to pack your road bike“. Strictly follow these instructions, whenever you pack your road bike.

Our packing instructions that will help you pack your

Canyon step-by-step are also posted at our website www.canyon.com

The Canyon BikeShuttle

For travelling with your road bike by plane pack your bike either into the Canyon BikeGuard or use a suitable bike case, e.g. the Canyon BikeShuttle.

For a transport by car be sure to secure your bike appropriately in order to avoid any shifting inside the car. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, read the more detailed chapter of the manual further below or on the enclosed CD or contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

The Canyon BikeGuard

Always secure the bicycle or bicycle com- ponents when putting it/them into the interior of your car. Parts shifting around can impair your safety.

!

In the event your Canyon has not been packed for dispatch according to the enclosed packing instructions, you have no right to claim refund of repair costs for possibly occurring transport damage from Canyon Bicycles GmbH.

!

Most clamps of bike carrier systems are potential sources of damage to large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames may fail abruptly during use, aluminium frames are susceptible to dents. Suitable, special-purpose models are, however, available in the car accessory trade.

When taking your bike by car, make sure to remove all parts from your bike (tools, pannier bags, child carriers etc.) which might come loose during transport and cause an accident.

QUICK-RELEASE

23

HOW TO USE THE

QUICK-RELEASE

Although the use of quick-releases is very easy, they have repeatedly been the cause of accidents as a result of a wrong handling.

Quick-release retention mechanisms essentially consist of two manipulable parts:

The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force via a cam when you close it.

The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which to set the initial tension on the threaded rod.

Open the quick-release lever

HOW TO SECURELY MOUNT THE WHEEL

Open the quick-release. You should now be able to read “OPEN” on the lever.

Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read “CLOSE” on the outside of the lever. From the start of the closing movement up to about the first half of its travel the lever should move very easily, i.e. without clamping the wheel.

Over the second half of its travel, the force you need to move it, should increase considerably. Towards the end of its travel the lever should be very hard to move. Use the ball of your thumb while your fingers pull on an immovable part such as the fork or frame.

Close the quick-release lever dents!

Improperly mounted wheels may throw you off your bicycle or result in serious acci-

Make sure the levers of both quick- releases are always on the left side of your

Canyon (i.e. opposite the chain drive). This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way round.

i

If your bicycle is equipped with quick- releases, be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.

24

QUICK-RELEASE

In its end position the lever should be parallel to the bike, i.e. it should not stick out to the side. The lever must lie close to the frame so that it cannot be opened accidentally.

To check whether the lever is securely locked try to turn it while it is closed.

If you can turn the lever around, the wheel is not securely fastened. Open the lever again and screw the tightening nut clockwise by half a turn to increase the initial tension.

Close the lever again and check it again for tightness. If the lever can no longer be turned, it is properly fastened.

Finally lift the bike a few centimetres from the ground so that the wheel is suspended and hit the tyre from above. If it is properly fastened, the wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the frame.

The quick-release lever must be nearly parallel to the wheel and not stick out

If your seat post is equipped with a quick-release mechanism, check whether the saddle is firmly fixed by trying to twist it relative to the frame.

Try twisting the saddle relative to the frame

Make sure the levers of both quick- releases are always on the left side of your

Canyon (i.e. opposite the chain drive). This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way round.

With insufficiently closed quick-releases the wheels can come loose, thus creating a serious risk of accident!

i

As an anti-theft measure you can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact our service hotline +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

ADD-ON PARTS AND CHANGES

25

WHAT TO BEAR IN

MIND WHEN ADDING

COMPONENTS OR

MAKING CHANGES

Canyon bikes are sport machines which are fitted according to the respective usage. Please note that the mounting of mudguards or such like may impair the functioning and hence the safety whilst riding. Before buying and mounting any accessory, please check whether this particular accessory part matches with your Canyon.

Mudguards/wheel protections

With additional bells, horns or lighting accessories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads. Battery/accumulator-operated lights have to be marked with the wavy line and the letter

“K” (see chapter “Legal requirements”).

Pannier rack

If you want to mount a pannier rack or a child seat or trailer, please read chapter “Intended use” beforehand to make sure it is permitted. If a mounting is permitted, in general, please contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582 and ask for suitable models.

Only perform jobs you are absolutely sure of.

Handlebars, stems and forks should only be replaced by a skilled mechanic. Be sure to follow the operating of the accessory manufacturer in any case. When mounting other components and accessories, it is your responsibility to mount the components appropriately. Bring your Canyon to our service workshop, if you have the slightest doubt.

Retrofitted accessories, such as mud- guards, carriers etc., can impair the functioning of your Canyon. We therefore advise you to use accessories from our product range. This will ensure you use matching components.

Components that come loose or break off as a result of improper mounting can cause serious accidents. Safety relevant bolts must be tightened to their specified torques.

i

In case of any questions regarding com- ponent assembly, compatibility or if you want to make any changes, read the more detailed chapter of the manual further below or on the enclosed CD or contact our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

26

CARBON

SPECIAL

CHARACTERISTICS

OF CARBON

Carbon fibre reinforced plastic, also referred to as carbon (or CRP), has a number of special characteristics compared to conventional lightweight materials. Having some knowledge of these characteristics is important so that you can enjoy your high-quality

Canyon for many years and have full confidence in its material.

Carbon fibre reinforced plastic has proved its value in road racing with numerous wins. Components made of this material are extremely lightweight and - presupposing proper design, processing and treatment

- of outstanding strength and stress resistance.

Carbon

Be attentive during riding. If your carbon component produces any creaking, this may indicate a material defect. Stop using your bike and contact our service hotline to discuss the steps to be taken. For your own safety, never ask for CRP components to be repaired! Damaged carbon components should be replaced immediately and prevented from being used by anyone else.

However, there is one particular drawback of this material – its brittleness. Therefore, when subjected to stress it does not undergo permanent deformation, even though its inner structure may have sustained damage. In the extreme case, the fibres may separate, thus resulting in the so-called delamination and reducing the strength properties of the component.

In contrast to steel or aluminium, carbon components that have sustained damage to their inner fibres as a result of excessive stress will show no outwardly visible deformation.

Carbon components should never be ex- posed to high temperatures, as occurring during powder coating or enamelling. The heat generated by these processes may destroy the component. Do not leave carbon components in a car in direct sunlight for prolonged periods or near sources of heat.

Carbon components that have been subjected to overstress are therefore liable to fail during use, possibly causing an accident with unforeseeable consequences. If you have had a critical incident with your bike, we advise you to have the relevant component inspected by our service workshop, or better still, the whole Canyon.

Always park your Canyon carefully and make sure it does not topple over. Carbon frames and parts may already sustain damage by simply toppling over.

i

Most clamps of bike carrier systems are potential sources of damage to large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames may suddenly fail during use. Suitable, special-purpose models are available in the car accessory trade.

i

Make sure the maximum overall weight of rider, baggage (rucksack) and bicycle does not exceed 100 kg. Carbon wheels are generally not approved for trailer towing!

CARBON

27

SPECIAL FEATURES OF CARBON WHEELS

As carbon wheels are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they come with particular aerodynamic properties and low weight.

WHAT TO BEAR IN MIND WHEN BRAkING WITH CAR-

BON WHEELS

As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are some things to keep in mind. Only use brake pads that are suitable for carbon wheels. We recommend that you always use the brake pads of the wheel manufacturer!

Shimano and Campagnolo offer carbon brake pads, as well. These are, however, designed to match

Shimano and Campagnolo rims. Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions. Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of traffic until you have full control of your bicycle.

The brake surfaces of the carbon rims are sensitive to heat. Therefore, when you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g. with a permanently activated rear wheel brake may heat up the material and result in a deformation. The rim may sustain damage and the inner tube may burst, thus causing an accident. Always use both brakes simultaneously and release them intermittently to allow the material to cool off.

Wheels with carbon rims have a particular brake behaviour

!

Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws of a workstand! The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (aluminium) seat post instead and use this to clamp the frame, or use a workstand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle or that clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.

i

Check the condition of the brakes and make sure you only ride with brake pads that are suitable for carbon rims!

Check the condition of the brake pads at short intervals, as they might wear down faster than with aluminium rims.

Note that your bike’s braking power is greatly reduced in wet conditions. Do not go for a ride, when it is about to rain or in wet conditions. Nevertheless, if you will find yourself with your Canyon on a wet or moist road, ride particularly carefully and at clearly reduced speed.

28

CARBON

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Components made of carbon reinforced fibre should be cleaned with a soft rag and clear water, to which a little dish liquid may be added, if necessary. Tough stains of oil or grease can be removed with a petroleum-based cleaning agent. Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, trichloroethlyene, methyl chloride etc., solvents or non-neutral, chemical or solvent-containing cleaning agents that could attack the surface!

Use car wax to protect the surface

You can use car wax to protect the surface and make it shine. Polishing agents or varnish cleaner contain solid constituents that might attack the surface.

Keep the braking surfaces of carbon wheels free of maintenance agents and lubricants!

!

Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws of a workstand! The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (aluminium) seat post instead and use this to clamp the frame, or use a work stand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle or that clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.

Special pads protect carbon from damage

Like all extremely lightweight components, carbon components have a limited service life. The handlebars, the seat post, the carbon wheels and the stem should therefore be replaced at regular intervals – e.g. every 3 years or after

15,000 km (9,300 miles), depending on frequency and intensity of use – even if they have not been involved in accidents or similar incidents.

!

Avoid greasing carbon components, in general. Grease would penetrate the surface of the carbon material, reducing the coefficient of friction and hence impairing the stability of the clamping joint when tightened within the permissible torque range. Once greased carbon fibre may never ever be fixed in a secure and safe way again!

!

Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame (e.g. the underside of the down tube) with special pads against rubbing cables or stone chips.

Check your carbon component regularly, e.g. when cleaning your bike, for external damage, such as notches, cracks, dents, discolourations etc. If the cloth gets caught on something, this area must be examined. Stop using your Canyon. Contact immediately our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

SPECIAL FEATURES OF TRIATHLON, TRACK BIKES AND TIME TRIAL MACHINES

29

SPECIAL FEATURES

OF TRIATHLON, TRACK

BIKES AND TIME TRIAL

MACHINES

TIME TRIAL HANDLEBARS

In triathlon sport and time trial, where a particularly aerodynamic seating position is important, so called aero handlebars are used. With these aero models the shift levers are often positioned at the handlebar ends, the brake levers at the ends of bull-horn handlebars. When you ride with your back in horizontal position, the brake levers are out of reach and the reaction time extends which makes your stopping distance longer. For this reason it is very important for you to ride particularly anticipatory.

Within certain limits the position of the handlebars can be adjusted according to your personal preferences. That is to say the straight part of the handlebars should point slightly downwards or upwards, whereas the upward inclination should not exceed 30 degrees.

Make sure your forearms are always comfortably rested, i.e. the elbows should project the armrests a little towards the rear.

The riding behaviour of time trial machines needs getting used to

The elbows should protrude a little to the rear beyond the arm rests

!

Triathlon bikes and time trial machines are specific in terms of riding characteristics.

Make yourself gradually familiar with your new bike in an unfrequented area and approach the riding characteristics step by step.

30

SPECIAL FEATURES OF TRIATHLON, TRACK BIKES AND TIME TRIAL MACHINES

TIME TRIAL BAR END SHIFTERS

With Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo bar end shifters for triathlon and time trial use the shifter is pressed downwards to move the chain to the smaller sprockets in the rear, i.e. to achieve a higher gear, and to the smaller chainrings in the front, i.e. to achieve a smaller gear. By pulling the shifter upwards the chain can be moved to the bigger sprockets and chainrings.

Bar end shifters operate rear and front derailleur

The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the rear derailleur via bowden cable. Then the rear derailleur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the next sprocket. It is therefore important when changing gears to continue pedalling smoothly without force as long as the chain is moving between sprockets or chainrings! There are, however, special guides in the chainrings of today’s bikes which allow for switching gears under force. Changing gears under load shortens, however, the service life of your chain considerably.

Furthermore, this may cause the chain to jam between chainstay and chainrings (also referred to as

“chain-suck”). Therefore, avoid changing gears while pedalling with force, in particular when changing gears with the front derailleur.

Rear derailleur

TRACk BIkES

Track bikes do not have brakes. The rear wheel hub is without freewheel. The cranks always rotate with the wheels. Therefore, when you start riding a track bike, let yourself help by an experienced trainer.

Track bike

Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases, while riding with your hands on aerobars. The brake levers are not within easy reach.

Track bikes differ completely from usual road racing bicycles. Carefully approach riding without freewheel and without brakes.

AFTER AN ACCIDENT

31

AFTER AN ACCIDENT

1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs and whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the wheels and watch the clearance between brake pads and rims. If the width of the clearance changes markedly and you have no way to true the rim where you are, you will need to open the brakes a little, if necessary, so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them. In this case remember that the brakes will not act as powerfully as you are used to. For more information, read chapters “The brake system“ and “The wheels“.

Check the reliable clamping of both wheels between the drop-outs

2. Check whether the handlebars and stem are neither bent nor ruptured and whether they are level and upright. Check whether the stem is firmly fixed in the fork by trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel. Also, briefly lean on the brake levers to make sure the handlebars are firmly fixed in the stem. For more information, see chapters

“Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider“ and

“The headset“.

3. See whether the chain still runs on the chainring and sprockets. If your bike fell over to the chain side, check that the gears still function properly.

Ask somebody to lift the bicycle by the saddle and gently shift through all the gears. Pay particular attention when switching to the small gears, making sure the rear derailleur does not get too close to the spokes as the chain climbs onto the larger sprockets. If the derailleur or the drop-outs have been bent, this can cause the rear derailleur to collide with the spokes – risk of accident! This in turn can destroy the rear derailleur, the rear wheel or the frame. Check the front derailleur, as a damaged front derailleur can throw off the chain, thus interrupting the power train of the bicycle (see chapter

“The gears”).

Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel

Verify that the chain still runs on the chainring and sprockets

i

Please note the particulars given in chap-

ter “Special characteristics of carbon”, as well.

32

AFTER AN ACCIDENT

4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube or the bottom bracket shell as a reference.

5. Lift your bike up a few centimetres and let it bounce onto the ground. If this causes any sort of noise, search for loosened bolts.

6. Finally, take a good look at the whole bike to detect any deformation, discolouration or cracks.

Only ride back very carefully by taking the shortest possible way, if your bike went through this check without any doubt. Do not accelerate or brake hard and do not ride your bike out of the saddle.

If you are in doubt about the performance of your bike, have yourself picked up by car, instead of risking anything. Back home the bike must be examined thoroughly. Please read the more detailed chapters of the manual further below or on the enclosed CD or contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube as a reference

Check carbon components with particular attention and replace the parts for your safety, if you have the slightest doubt

Carbon components which have suffered from an impact force as well as bent parts made of aluminium may brake without previous warning. They must not be repaired, i.e. straightened, as the risk of breakage would still remain imminent. This applies in particular to forks, handlebars, stems, crank sets, seat posts and pedals.

If in doubt, it is always the better choice to have these parts replaced, as your safety comes first.

Replace lightweight components after an accident for you own safety

FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

33

FRAMESETS –

ASSEMBLY TECHNICAL

DATA

Canyon offers the high-quality carbon and aluminium frames as bare frames for individual fitting with components.

The person completing and mounting the add-on parts must therefore ensure that all components are compatible and properly mounted. There is a vast variety of available add-on parts, making it impossible for Canyon to cover every conceivable option in this manual. Canyon cannot be held responsible for any component combination possible.

Canyon Ultimate CF frameset

We strongly advise you to carefully read the component manufacturers’ operating instructions, as well.

Failures in selecting bike components can, in principle, result in your Canyon being unsafe. We therefore advise you to have your bike assembled by a skilled mechanic or by our service centre. For your own safety, never do any work unless you feel absolutely sure about it.

i

Have your Canyon assembled in our serv- ice centre!

i

T hese instructions may require further explanations, depending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work, and some jobs may require additional (special) tools, such as special dismantling tools or additional instructions.

!

Do not clamp the frame into an assembly stand by its tubes! This could cause damage to the thin-walled tubes. First mount a sturdy aluminium seat post and use this to clamp the frame, or use an assembly stand which holds the frame at three points from inside or which holds the fork and bottom bracket shell.

34

FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

Frames are delivered ready for assembly, i.e. with threads cut and bearing seats and seat tube faced.

There is no need for any machining on the frame. Do not modify the frame or any of its attachments, e.g. the adjustable cable guides etc., by filing, boring or the like.

Mount all components onto the frame by using highgrade assembly grease (except for carbon seat posts, stems on forks with a carbon steerer tube and all seat posts on carbon frames). This helps to avoid corrosion. If you omit the grease, you may find it impossible to disassemble your Canyon at a later date.

Canyon road bike frames are delivered with the headset and fork already mounted.

Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maximum permissible torque in small steps. Check the secure seat of the component, as described in the relevant chapters.

Always observe the tightening torques indicated

For parts with no torque range given, tighten the bolts gradually to the maximum torque and check in between regularly the reliable fit of the component.

Make it a rule to use a torque wrench

!

The stem included in the delivery is the only stem approved for assembly.

Whoever assembles a Canyon bike frame from a bare frame carries the responsibility for ensuring that the components are selected and mounted in accordance with the manufacturers’ guidelines, generally accepted standards and the state of the art in science and technology. In case there are any questions regarding compatibility of individual parts, please contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

!

All carbon fibres of the Canyon F10 frame were arranged in a way to meet the strength specifications for those directions of force to which they are normally subjected. For this reason the riveted cable stops must only be subjected to forces as they are exerted by the gear or brake cable. Do not pull on them at an oblique angle or against the direction of the cable, i.e. away from the frame, e.g. in an attempt to alter the effective cable length. This could otherwise cause damage to the frame.

i

Some components have torque specifica- tions printed or labelled on them. Be sure to observe these specifications. Also follow the component manufacturers’ operating instructions enclosed with the delivery!

FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

35

HEADSET

All frames are delivered with fully mounted bearing cups and an integrated headset.

Canyon road bike framesets are delivered with the stem and fork mounted and the headset already adjusted.

BOTTOM BRACkET BEARINGS

Fully mounted and adjusted headset with stem and fork

All frames (except Aeroad CF): BSA/BSC 1.370x24T,

(right cup left hand threading!)

Aeroad CF: Pressfit BB 91 with 86.5 mm

Common cartridge bearings can be mounted directly into the bottom bracket shell of all models with highgrade grease. Observe the torque specifications of the bottom bracket manufacturer.

REAR FRAME WIDTH

All road bike frames: 130 mm

Track bike V-Drome: 120 mm

Bottom bracket bearing

36

FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

REPLACEABLE DERAILLEUR HANGER

All frame models have a sufficiently fastened replaceable derailleur hanger. Observe a tightening torque of

1.5 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum torque of 1.5 Nm.

BOTTLE CAGE

Use a maximum torque of 4.5 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum torque of 4.5 Nm.

CABLE STOPS

The cable stops riveted onto the Canyon Ultimate CF frame must only be subjected to forces acting in the same direction as the gear or brake cables. Forces acting at an oblique angle or against the direction of the cable can cause damage to the frame.

Do not exceed the maximum torque of 1.5 Nm when replacing the replaceable derailleur hanger

Do not exceed the maximum torque of 4.5 Nm when tightening the bottle cage

FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

37

SEAT POST

When selecting a new seat post make sure it has the same nominal diameter as the frame’s seat tube. You should be able to slide it in easily without pressing or turning. A mismatch between frame and seat post can cause failure of the seat post.

Before mounting the seat post on the frame make sure the seat tube is absolutely free of sharp edges and burrs. If either the seat post or the frame is made of carbon, then both parts have to be free of oil and grease. Clean and deburr the seat tube, if necessary.

Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder bolt or quick-release. Be sure to read the notes given in chapter “Adjusting the saddle to the correct height” as well as the permitted torques in chapter “General notes on care and inspection” and follow the operating instructions of the component manufacturers, as well. Overtightening may cause a seat post failure, resulting in a crash and/or injury of the rider.

Make sure the seat post matches accurately the frame

Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder bolt

i

When replacing the derailleur hanger, make sure to apply a little grease between derailleur hanger and frame!

i

Observe the information on seat post diameters given under www.canyon.com/ service

i

Use Canyon carbon assembly paste to achieve a firm seat of the seat post.

Even a slight mismatch between seat post and seat tube diameter can lead to a rupture of frame or carbon seat post. This can result in an accident or injury to the rider.

Never grease a carbon seat post or the seat tube of a carbon frame.

Slide your seat post into the seat tube beyond its minimum mark and make sure its end reaches beyond the top tube. Never ride your Canyon with the minimum mark of the seat post being visible.

38

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

ADJUSTING THE

CANYON ROAD BIKE TO

THE RIDER

No matter whether you want to ride in streamlined position or relaxed on a Canyon racing machine. The

(seating) position is crucial for your well-being and the development of your riding performance on your

Canyon. Therefore, be sure to adjust both saddle and handlebars of your Canyon as accurately as possible to your needs.

Be sure there is enough clearance between crotch and top tube

In principle, road racing bicycles are sports bikes designed for speed. For this reason alone riding a road racing bicycle requires certain basic preconditions of the trunk, shoulder and neck muscles.

Your body height is the decisive criterion when choosing the frame size of your Canyon. By choosing a specific type of bike you already roughly determine the posture you will be riding in. However, some components of your Canyon are designed in a way that you can adjust them to your proportions up to a certain degree. These include the seat post, the stem and the brake levers.

Typical position of a road racing cyclist

Never ride a bike with a too high frame, resulting in a low crotch clearance when you stand over the bike.

The Canyon Perfect Position System system (PPS) offers you the possibility to select your Canyon perfectly tuned to your body without test ride. For more details on the PPS visit our website at www.canyon.com

All the tasks described in the following require some experience, appropriate tools and manual skills. After carrying out assembly work, always make a short check (see chapter

“Before every ride”) and do a test ride in an unfrequented place or on a quiet road. This will allow you to safely check whether everything is in good order. If you are unsure about how to do something, it will be better just to check your seating position. If in doubt, ask an expert to adjust your

Canyon.

SADDLE HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

39

ADJUSTING THE

SADDLE TO THE

CORRECT HEIGHT

The correct saddle height is all a matter of how it allows you to pedal.

Attention: When pedalling, the ball of your big toe should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindle. With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely at the lowest point. If the saddle is too high, you will have trouble passing through the lowest point and your pedalling will become awkward. If the saddle is too low, you may soon find your knees aching. You can check the height of your saddle in the following simple way. This is best done wearing flat-soled shoes.

To adjust the saddle height loosen the seat post binder bolt

Sit on the saddle and put one heel on the pedal at its lowest point. In this position your leg should be fully stretched and your hips should not be tilted to either side.

To adjust the saddle height loosen the binder bolt or quick-release lever (read chapter “How to use the quick-release“ beforehand). Use a suitable tool to release the seat post binder bolt by turning it anticlockwise.

Do not pull the seat post out as far as to let the mark on the shaft come into view. In the case of frames with long seat tubes which continue beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the height of the top tube! This can mean a minimum insertion length of 10 centimetres (4.5 in.) or more.

The leg must be fully stretched with the heel on the pedal at its lowest point

!

The minimum insertion depths marked on seat post and frame may differ. Be sure to insert the seat post to the deepest insertion depth.

i

With children who are still growing it is ad- visable to check the seating position every two to three months.

Never apply grease or oil into a seat tube of a frame made of carbon, unless an aluminium sleeve is inside the frame. If you mount a carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it, even if the frame is made of metal. Once greased carbon fibre components may never again ensure reliable clamping!

40

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

SADDLE HEIGHT

Now you can adjust the saddle height to the desired position. Make sure the part of the seat post inside the seat tube is always well greased. (Except: frames and seat posts made of carbon). Do not use brute force, if the seat post does not move easily inside the seat tube. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Align the saddle with the frame using the saddle nose and the bottom bracket or top tube as references.

Clamp the seat post tight again by turning the seat post binder bolt clockwise. You should not need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post sufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post may be the wrong size for the frame. If you are in doubt, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501

2582.

Verify that the seat clamp is sufficiently tight by taking hold of the saddle at both ends and trying to turn the seat post inside the seat tube. If it does not move, the seat post is firmly seated.

Does the leg stretch test now produce the right result? Check by moving your foot and pedal to the lowest point. If the ball of your big toe is exactly above the pedal centre (ideal pedalling position) your knee should be slightly bent. If this is the case, the saddle height is adjusted to the correct height.

Check whether you can balance safely on your bike while sitting on the saddle by stretching your feet to the floor. If not, you should lower the saddle a little.

Check alignment of saddle along top tube to make sure it is not twisted

Try twisting the saddle relative to the frame

i

Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps

(0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!

Do not overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Otherwise the seat post or the frame can be damaged. Risk of an accident!

Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond the limit, maximum, or stop mark! The seat post might break or cause severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has a long seat tube continuing beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the level of the top tube and the tip of the rear stays!

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

41

ADJUSTING THE

HEIGHT OF THE

HANDLEBARS

The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upper body. The deeper the handlebars, the more inclined the upper body. This means a more streamlined position for the rider and more weight to bear on the front wheel, but the extremely inclined position proves less comfortable, as the strain on wrists, arms, upper body and neck will increase.

The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upper body

The riding behaviour of time trial machines needs getting used to

Track bikes are puristic and uncompromising sports equipment

Stems come in very different lengths and shaft and binder tube diameters. A stem of inappropriate dimensions can become a source of danger: Handlebars and stem may break, causing an accident in the process. When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts.

Make sure the handlebar-stem-combina- tion is approved by the handlebar and/or stem manufacturer.

42

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

AHEADSET ®

(Aheadset ® pe company)

-STEMS OR THREADLESS SYSTEM

is a registered trademark of the Dia-Com-

On bikes with an Aheadset ® , the stem also serves to adjust the headset bearing pressure. If you change the position of the stem, you have to readjust the bearings (see chapter “The headset”). The vertical setting range is determined by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers. With flip-flop stem models it is also possible to mount the stem the other way round to alter the handlebar height.

Release the bolts on the side of the stem

Release the bolt at the top of the fork steerer tube which serves to adjust the initial bearing pressure and remove the Ahead cap.

Release the stem clamping bolts on either side of the stem and pull the stem off the fork.

Now you can remove the spacers.

Apply a litte Canyon carbon assembly paste in the stem clamping area.

Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube and slip the spacers you have removed above the stem.

Remove the spacers under the stem and place them above the stem

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

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If you want to turn around the stem, you have to additionally remove the handlebars.

To do so release the bolts of the stem front plate clamping the handlebars and remove them carefully.

Apply a little Canyon carbon assembly paste in this clamping area and retighten the handlebars after having turned around the stem.

Centre the handlebars accurately in the stem clamp.

Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench by observing the correct tightening torques.

Please note that when using carbon assembly paste you normally need not use the maximum tightening torque. It will do already to tighten the bolts with tightening torques that are 20 to 25 % below the maximum tightening torques, i.e. 6 Nm instead of 8

Nm. That will prevent the material from damage.

Readjust the bearing.

Realign the stem by making sure it is in alignment with the front wheel and at right angle relative to the handlebars and the direction of motion. After realignment of the stem retighten it and check whether the handlebars resist twisting and turning

(see chapter “The headset”).

Readjust the bearing

Retighten the stem to the prescribed torque

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Also observe the enclosed operating instructions of the component manufacturers.

Apply some carbon assembly paste on the steerer tube

The stem is one of the load bearing parts of your bike and changes to it can impair your safety. Note that the bolted connections of the stem and the handlebars have to be tightened to specified torques. For the prescribed values, see chapter “Recommended tightening torques“.

If you intend to make any changes, contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

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When removing the spacers you will have to shorten the steerer tube. This change is irreversible. For this reason, a shortening should not be carried out until you are absolutely sure about the seating position. Have this job carried out by an experienced mechanic. We recommend that you contact our Canyon workshop through our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

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Verify that the handlebar clamping area is free of sharp edges. If you intend to make any changes, contact our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

If you have a Canyon road bike with a carbon steerer tube (which you can tell by the black or black shining colour in the stem slit), you have to be extremely careful when tightening the stem. This is a job for experts only!

Note that the bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be tightened to the specified tightening torques. You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended tightening torques” or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582. If you disregard the prescribed values, the handlebars or stem may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.

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ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

I-LOCk SYSTEM

In the case of bikes with “I-Lock” system the headset is also fixed by the stem. If you modify the stem position, you have to readjust the headset (see chapter

“The headset”, as well).

Changing the height of the handlebars can only be achieved by removing the spacers from beneath the stem and by slipping them on top of it or, with socalled flip-flop models, by turning the stem around.

Release the bolts on the side of the stem

Release the bolts at the side of the stem by two to three turns. Turn back the bolts of the headset adjusting device, i.e. anticlockwise.

Remove the cap at the stem top.

Keep hold of the fork and slip the stem off the steerer tube.

Now you can remove the spacers.

Apply a litte Canyon carbon assembly paste in the stem clamping area.

Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube and slip the spacers you have removed above the stem.

Turn back the counted rotations of the headset adjusting device

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This is a rough-and-ready adjustment to check the handlebar position, as the spacers might rattle during riding. When you are sure you have found the adequate handlebar height, have the steerer tube shortened by a skilled mechanic.

Remove the cap

When replacing the stem be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts.

Due to this special type of clamping, the usage of other models may cause damage, in particular in the case of carbon forks. Risk of an accident!

Canyon denies any liability for combinations with other stem models. This shall render the warranty null and void.

Your Canyon road bike has a steerer tube made of carbon, which you can tell by the black or shining black colour in the stem slit. Be sure to be very carefully when doing any work in the cockpit area of your Canyon. This is a job for skilled mechanics only! If you are not sure, please contact our Canyon workshop to have the adjustments made. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

45

If you want to turn around the stem, you have to additionally remove the handlebars.

To do so release the bolts of the stem front plate clamping the handlebars and remove them carefully.

Apply some carbon assembly paste in this clamping area, as well, and re-mount the handlebar after having turned around the stem.

Slide the cap on top of the steerer tube, keep hold of the fork and press stem and cap downwards to eliminate any play.

Realign the stem by making sure it is in alignment with the front wheel and at right angle relative to the handlebars and the direction of motion.

Continue by aligning the handlebars in the stem clamp, i.e. the drops should be in horizontal position or, at the most, slant slightly downwards towards the rear.

Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench by observing the correct tightening torques.

Please note that when using carbon assembly paste you normally need not use the maximum tightening torque. It will do already to tighten the bolts with tightening torques that are 20 to 25 % below the maximum tightening torques, i.e. 6 Nm instead of 8

Nm. That will prevent the material from damage.

Adjust the bearing play and make a strength test, as described further below.

Slip off the spacers

Apply some carbon assembly paste on the steerer tube

Remount the cap and press it downwards to the fork you keep hold of and retighten the aligned stem to the prescribed tightening torque

Note that the bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be tightened to the specified torques. You will find the prescribed values on the components themselves or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. If you disregard the prescribed values, the handlebars or stem may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.

Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench by observing the correct tightening torques

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ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

FORE-TO-AFT-POSITION

AND SADDLE TILT

The inclination of your upper body and hence your riding comfort and pedalling power are also influenced by the distance between the grips of the handlebars and the saddle as well as by the saddle tilt.

This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the saddle rails on the seat post. However, this also influences your pedalling. Depending on whether the saddle is positioned more to the front or more rearwards, your legs will reach the pedals to a greater or lesser extent from behind.

The inclination of your upper body is influenced by the distance between the grips of the handlebars and the saddle

You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed manner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.

Do avoid a rearward tilt of the saddle

Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be tightened to the specified tightening torques. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended tightening torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

Never clamp the saddle in the curved sections of the saddle rail, but always in the straight area.

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The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the stem allows you to make far larger changes to the fore-to-aft position, because stems come in lengths differing by more than ten centimetres. In most of the cases the length of the cables must be adjusted. Be sure to have this job done by a specialist workshop.

If you have any questions or in case you want to make an appointment, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

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ADjUSTING SADDLE POSITION AND TILT

Patent clamping with two parallel bolts

With so called patent seat posts two bolts fix the clamping mechanism, which ensures the tilt and the vertical position of the saddle. Release both seat clamp bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolts two to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart.

Tighten both bolts evenly and alternately without exceeding the permissible maximum torque

Move the saddle forth or back, as desired. You may have to give it a light blow to move it. Observe the marking on the saddle rail and do not go beyond.

Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal as you tighten the bolt evenly and alternately. The bike should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.

After fastening the saddle check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands on the tip and once at the rear end.

Check the firm seat of the retightened saddle

Stems come in very different lengths and shaft and binder tube diameters. A stem of inappropriate dimensions can become a serious source of danger: Handlebars and stem may break, causing an accident in the process.

VCLS Post 2.0

Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the values indiated in chapter „Recommended tightening torques“, in the enclosed manuals or directly on the components.

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Read in any case the supplementary VCLS

Post 2.0 user manual that you got when you bought a VCLS Post 2.0.

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ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

Clamping with two bolts in line

Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart. Move the saddle forth or back, as desired, to adjust the horizontal position. Tighten both bolts evenly so the saddle remains at the same angle.

If you wish to lower a little the nose of the saddle, turn the front bolt. It might be that you have to loosen the rear bolt a little. To lower the rear part of the saddle, the rear bolt has to be turned. Having found your preferred position make sure both clamps are correctly aligned with the saddle rails before tightening the bolts to the correct torque setting as prescribed by the seat post manufacturer.

Please observe the recommended tightening torques in chapter “General notes on care and inspection“.

After fastening the saddle check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands on the tip and once at the rear end.

Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most

Retighten the bolts evenly and alternately to the prescribed torque

Be sure the saddle rail is clamped within the marked area

Bring the saddle rail in a position that the seat post clamping is within the marked area. If there is no marking, the clamping must be effected on the straight portion of the rail and on no account on the front or rear bend. Risk of breakage!

When replacing the saddle, bear in mind that seat posts are normally designed for a saddle rail diameter of seven millimetres. Saddle rails of other dimensions may result in seat post failure, possibly throwing the rider off his bike.

FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

49

Saddle clamp Speedmax

Insert the Speedmax seat post into the seat post to the desired saddle height. Tighten the two Allen bolts that point to the rear to the indicated tightening torque of 3 Nm.

The saddle fixing is carried out with the Allen bolt on either side of the saddle (I in the picture on the right).

When fixing the saddle make sure the top plate of the clamping lies close around the saddle rail and tighten both Allen bolts to the indicated tightening torque of

5 Nm.

The two Allen bolts positioned below (see II in the picture on the right) are designed to adjust both tilt and horizontal position of the saddle. These two bolts allow changes to the tilt and horizontal position of the saddle without releasing the clamping mechanism.

To change the horizontal position of the saddle, release the two lower positioned Allen bolts by two to three turns at the most. You can now move the saddle horizontally and adjust the tilt to your needs. Subsequently, tighten both Allen bolts evenly so the saddle remains at the desired angle. Use a torque wrench. In the event there is no firm clamping of your seat post at 5 Nm, carefully increase the tightening torque in small steps to a maximum of 8 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum tightening torque!

After fastening the saddle check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands on the tip and once at the rear end.

Tghten both bolts by using a torque wrench

II

Never ride your bike with the seat post drawn out beyond the maximum mark! The seat post might break or sustain damage. Risk of an accident!

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Allen bolts to fasten and adjust the Speedmax saddle clamping

Bring the saddle rail in a position that the seat post clamping is within the marked area. If there is no marking, the clamping must be effected on the straight portion of the rail and on no account on the front or rear bend. Risk of breakage!

Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!

Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the values indiated in chapter „Recommended tightening torques“, in the enclosed manuals or directly on the components.

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ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

SADDLE CLAMP AEROAD

Insert the seat post into the seat tube to the desired saddle height. Tighten the two Allen bolts that point to the rear to the indicated tightening torque of 5-7 Nm.

SEAT POST MONORAIL

The saddle system Monorail from Selle Italia has a special seat post head for the saddle mounting. The saddle is not fitted with two saddle rails, as usual, but has a single carbon rail running underneath the centre of the saddle cover. This makes for a larger horizontal adjustment range of the saddle.

Tghten both bolts by using a torque wrench

After releasing both bolts at the seat post head you can move the saddle to the front and to the rear.

These two bolts also allow the adjustment of the saddle tilt (e.g. lowering the front end of the saddle).

Tighten the bolts to a maximum torque of 8 Nm.

Seat post monorail

Seat post monorail

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Read the operating instructions on the enclosed CD-Rom.

HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS

ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

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HANDLEBARS AND

BRAKE LEVER

ADJUSTMENT

With road bikes the straight bar ends should be parallel to the ground or slant slightly downwards toward the rear. The tips of the brake levers should coincide with an imaginary straight line extending forward from the straight extension below the drops. Shifting the brake levers is a job best left to an expert, as it involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.

ADjUSTING THE HANDLEBAR POSITION BY TURNING

THE HANDLEBAR

The straight extension below the drops should be parallel to the ground or slant slightly downwards towards the rear

Release the Allen bolt(s) at the bottom or front side of the stem.

Turn the handlebars to the desired position.

Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.

Retighten the bolt carefully by using a torque wrench. Please observe the recommended tightening torques in chapter “General notes on care and inspection“.

Retighten the bolts to the prescribed torque

Check the firm seat of the handlebar by standing in front of your Canyon and seizing the handlebars at both brake levers. The handlebars must be tight and withstand any jerk. Gently retighten the clamping bolt(s), if necessary.

The handlebar must withstand any strong jerk

Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars and brakes have to be tightened to the specified torques. You will find the prescribed values in chapter “General notes on care and inspection” or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. If you disregard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.

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ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

BRAKE LEVER REACH

ADJUSTING THE

BRAKE LEVER REACH

With road bikes the clearance between shift/brake levers and handlebar can only be adjusted to a minor degree. If you have problems reaching the levers, please contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501

2582.

Brake lever reach

Read up on time trial handlebars for triathlon and time trial machines in chapter “Special features of triathlon, track bikes and time trial machines”.

The necessary brake lever travel can be slightly modified by means of the knurled nut

THE PEDAL SYSTEMS

Not all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used for cycling should have a stiff sole and provide a firm support for your feet. If the soles are too soft, the pedals can press through and cause foot pain. The sole should be not too broad near the heels, as the rear stays will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling.

This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural position and may cause knee pain in the long run.

DIFFERENT SYSTEMS AT A GLANCE – HOW THEY

WORk

It is recommended using pedals which provide a lock and release mechanism for your shoe, known as clipless or step-in pedals. The firm connection between shoe and pedal prevents your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or when riding over rough ground.

Besides this, it enables you not only to push but also to pull the pedals, which makes your pedalling more fluent. A further advantage is that the ball of your big toe comes to rest just at the right place on the pedal spindle and that you do not block inadvertently the front wheel with the tips of your feet during steering.

Step-in pedal

Shoes for step-in pedals

PEDAL SYSTEMS

53

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There are special shift/brake levers tai- lored to small hands on offer by various gear manufacturers.

Note that the distance you need to stop your bike increases, while riding with the hands on the top handlebars. The brake levers are not within easy reach.

Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars and brakes have to be tightened to the specified torques. You will find the prescribed values in chapter “General notes on care and inspection” or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. If you disregard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.

You should not be able to pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars. Your maximum brake force must be reached short of this point!

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For clipless or step-in pedals you always need special cycling shoes.

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Read the operating instructions of the pedal manufacturers or call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

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PEDAL SYSTEMS

Clipless of step-in pedals come with a special type of cycling shoe which locks onto the pedal similarly to a ski binding. To engage with the pedal is to turn it to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat (the plate on the sole of the shoe) and then rest your foot on it.

Most pedals are equipped with a double-sided lock-in mechanism, so that you can step on the pedal with either face up. The shoe engages with the pedal with a click which you will hear and feel clearly.

With all commercially available systems the shoe is disengaged from the pedal by twisting the heel outward. Lean against a wall or ask someone to hold you when you try to engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.

The clipless pedal disengages by an outward twisting of the heel

Functional differences between the pedal systems concern the shape of the cleat, the release angle and the rigidity of the connection. Cyclists predisposed to knee trouble should choose a pedal system that has some „float”, so that the heel can move sideways a little while the shoe is engaged with the pedal.

Some clipless pedals have cleats embedded into the sole which is a great advantage, as it ensures stable walking.

Cleats are recessed in cycling shoe soles

Taking up the pedals, engaging the shoes and disengaging them by turning the heel outward should first be practised in standing. Later you can refine your technique in a place clear of traffic. Read the operating instructions of the pedal and shoe manufacturers carefully. If you have any questions, call our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

PEDAL SYSTEMS

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ADjUSTMENT AND MAINTENANCE

Current pedal systems can show considerable differences in design. Nevertheless, there are some general rules for adjustment which apply to all of them:

The cleat has to be fastened to the shoe in such a position that the ball of the foot comes to rest on the pedal spindle.

Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling. For most people this means that the heels will point inward a little.

Make sure the fastening bolts are properly tightened, as you will find it almost impossible to disengage your shoe from a loose plate! Risk of an accident!

Adjust the required releasing force according to your needs. It is advisable to adopt a low releasing force setting to begin with. Turn the small Allen bolt and examine the change in releasing force when you engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.

Exposed springs and other components that attract dirt have to be cleaned and regreased regularly.

Squeaking or creaking cleats can often be silenced by applying a little grease to the point of contact between cleat and pedal.

Regularly check the cleats for wear. If your shoe wobbles on the pedal, the cleat or the sole of your shoes might be worn.

Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling

Adjusting the releasing force of the pedal

Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubricant at regular intervals.

Only use clipless pedals that allow you to engage and disengage smoothly. A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can lead to an accident by causing the shoe to come off by itself or making it harder to release.

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BRAKE SYSTEM

THE BRAKE SYSTEM

In general the brakes of your Canyon are necessary to adjust your speed to the traffic situation. However, in an emergency the brakes must be able to bring your Canyon to a halt as quickly as possible. Such emergency stops are also a study in physics. In the process of braking, the rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel. The rate of deceleration on a dry and grippy ground is primarily limited by the danger of overturning and only in the second place by the road grip of the tyres. This problem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill.

In the event of an emergency stop you have to try to put your weight back as far as possible.

Brake lever

Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that, due to the weight transfer, the front brakes can generate a far better braking effect on a surface with good grip.

The assignment of brake lever to brake pad, e.g. left lever acts on front brake, can vary. Have the brakes changed, as you want them.

Brake calliper

With rim brakes long lasting braking or permanent dragging of the brake pads can overheat the rim. This can affect the inner tube negatively or cause the tyre to slip on the inner rim. Sudden loss of pressure while cycling can result in a serious accident.

With disc brakes prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can overheat the brake system. This can result in a loss of braking power, even to the point of total brake failure, provoking serious accidents.

Braking leads to a forward shifting of the rider’s weight

Therefore, check your riding manners and make it a habit to brake hard and then to open the brake again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows it.

It is better to stop for a moment and let the rim cool down rather than to risk anything.

Be careful while getting used to the brakes. Practise emergency stops in a place clear of traffic until you have perfect command of your Canyon. This can save you from having accidents.

!

Wet weather reduces your braking power.

Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in the rain!

RIM BRAKES

BRAKE SYSTEM

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ROAD BIkE RIM BRAkES

Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear

Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating braking surface, and the resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are rubbed against each other.

When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why brakes respond at a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rims! Frequent rides in the rain hasten wear on both engaging surfaces.

Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can cause an accident!

We advise you to have the remaining thickness of the rims checked at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads.

Brake pads with worn down wear indicators, i.e. grooves, (bottom brake pad) must be replaced

Have your rims regularly inspected and measured

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When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use marked original brake pads matching your rim.

Carbon rims require special brake pads according to the instructions of the wheel manufacturer

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Ensure that braking surfaces are abso- lutely free of wax, grease and oil. Ask a skilled mechanic to examine the rims at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads. Worn down rims may make the inner tube burst, thus leading to a crash! In order to maintain their effectiveness brakes need to be checked and readjusted from time to time.

Damaged brake cables that are for exam- ple frayed should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing a crash.

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BRAKE SYSTEM

RIM BRAKES

Checking and readjusting road bike brakes

With side-pull brakes the brake arms are suspended from a common point, thus forming an integral system. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.

Checking the brake system

Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still suf ficiently thick (see chapter “The brake system”).

Do both brake arms contact the rim simultaneously when actuating the brake levers? Do you get a clear-cut braking response when you pull the brake lever hard, and does the lever remain clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull?

The brake pad must hit the rim accurately

An accurate adjustment of the brake is achieved, when your brake system has passed on all of the above points.

Vertical adjustment of the brake pads To adjust the height of the brake pads tighten the bolt to the prescribed torque

Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to two complete turns at the most.

Push the brake pad to the correct height and align it according to the rim before re-tightening the fastening bolt to the specified torque.

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Manufacturers of brakes deliver their products with detailed operating instructions. Be sure to read these operating instructions carefully before you dismount a wheel or do any maintenance work.

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When replacing any parts be sure to only use original spare parts!

After the readjustment do a brake test in standing. Make sure the brake pads engage fully with the rim when you pull them hard without touching the tyre. Furthermore you should not be able to pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars. Otherwise the brake might fail or the tyre sustain damage, thus causing an accident.

RIM BRAKES

BRAKE SYSTEM

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Readjusting and synchronising the side-pull brakes

With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) screw, located at the side or on top of the calliper, until the left and right brake pad are at the same distance from the rim.

Furthermore, check whether the bolt connecting the brake to the frame is still tightened to the prescribed torque, as specified in chapter “Recommended tightening torques”.

Turn the knurled nut through which the brake cable passes at the brake body until the travel of the brake lever suits your needs. To synchronise the brake, turn the little bolt on the side of the brake arm or the other bolt in the top area on the other side.

Screw this small bolt until the clearance between brake pad and rim is the same on either side

Turn the knurled nut to adjust the necessary brake lever travel

Damaged brake cables that are for exam- ple frayed should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing a crash.

Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.

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BRAKE SYSTEM

DISC BRAKES

MECHANICAL AND HYDRAULIC DISC BRAkES IN THE

CASE OF CYCLOCROSS BIkES

Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear

Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating braking surface, and the resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are rubbed against each other.

Disc brake

In the wet, disc brakes respond much faster than rim brakes. They also require fairly little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. One drawback of disc brakes is that they tend to be noisy when they are wet.

When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why disc brakes respond at a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rotors! Frequent rides in the rain hasten wear on both engaging surfaces.

!

Make sure that the rotors and brake pads remain absolutely free of wax, grease and lubricant. Brake pads, once contaminated with oil cannot be cleaned, but have to be replaced!

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Wet conditions and/or a heavily clogged brake can lead to squeaking noises during braking.

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When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use marked original spare parts matching your brake.

Leakages in the lines of hydraulic brakes may render them ineffective. Remove such leakages immediately, otherwise risk of accident!

Damaged cables should be replaced im- mediately, as otherwise they can tear. Risk of an accident!

Disc brakes are susceptible to overheating during braking. Therefore, do not touch the disc or brake caliper after extensive usage of your brake, e.g. after riding downhill.

DISC BRAKES

BRAKE SYSTEM

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Adjusting the brake lever reach

With disc brakes the brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, too, allowing you to operate them with optimal effectiveness. In most cases this is done by means of a small Allen bolt located directly at the hand lever.

After adjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.

Checking and readjusting in the case of mechanical disc brakes

Regularly check the braking response and the condition of the brake cables while pulling on the lever.

Do you get a clear-cut braking response when you pull the brake lever hard, and does the lever remain clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull?

To a certain extent, an increasing lever travel due to the wear on the brake pads can be compensated directly at the brake caliper. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable enters the brake caliper and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired travel. Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slit of the bolt head does not face upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high amount of water or dirt to enter.

Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads are still sufficiently thick. The wear on the pads can be checked by means of the thickness of the braking material attached to the backing plate within the brake caliper or by viewing through the window on the upper side of the caliper. If there is approximately

1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s operating instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.

Brake lever reach fore adjusting the brakes.

Repeated readjustment at the brake lever or brake caliper only can drastically reduce the maximum braking performance.

ly, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, possibly causing a crash.

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In any case, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer be-

Damaged brake cables that are for exam- ple frayed should be replaced immediate-

New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their optimal braking performance. Accelerate your Canyon 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it to a halt each time.

!

Some systems must be readjusted directly at the brake caliper to compensate wear.

For more information please read the brake manufacturer’s operating instructions.

62

BRAKE SYSTEM

DISC BRAKES

After readjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.

Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake caliper change its position. This can reduce braking power and result in a complete brake failure in an extreme case. Risk of an accident!

Some models offer further ways of adjusting the brakes directly at the brake caliper, though this requires a certain amount of skill.

Wear control of the brake pads

Checking and readjusting in the case of hydraulic disc brakes

Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks while pulling on the lever. If hydraulic oil or brake fluid leaks out, you should take appropriate measures immediately, as a leak can render your brakes ineffective. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

A leak in the brake lines can render the brake ineffective. Risk of an accident!

Most of the brake models are equipped with a mechanism which automatically compensates for the wear.

Before every ride, check whether you get a clear-cut braking response before the lever touches the handlebars.

Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads are still sufficiently thick. The wear of the pads can be checked by means of the thickness of the braking material attached to the backing plate within the brake caliper or by viewing through the window on the upper side of the caliper. If there is approximately

1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s operating instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.

larly according to the intervals prescribed by the manufacturer.

!

Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid that can be very unhealthy and damaging to the paint could leak out.

If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs to be replaced regu-

Loose connections and leaky brake lines drastically impair braking power. If there are any leakages in the system or lines bent, contact an expert or call our service hotline at +44 (0)

20 8501 2582. Risk of a crash!

The brake models of some manufacturers include transport locks with cut-outs. The brake pads of these brakes must be replaced as soon as they fit into these cut-outs.

Only use original replacement pads and follow the operating instructions of the brake manufacturers. If you have the slightest doubt, leave this job to a skilled mechanic.

Brake pads

DISC BRAKES

BRAKE SYSTEM

63

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New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their optimal braking performance. Accelerate your Canyon 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it to a halt each time.

i

For more information visit the following

websites: www.formulabrakeusa.com

www.formula-brake.it

www.magura.com

www.paul-lange.com

www.sram.com

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With the wheels dismounted, do not actuate the brake levers. This would cause the brake pads to be pushed together, making it difficult to remount the wheel. Mount the enclosed transport locks after dismounting the wheels.

Do not transport your Canyon with saddle and handlebars upside down – risk of brake failure.

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In any case, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before adjusting the brakes.

64

GEARS

THE GEARS

The gears on your Canyon serve to adjust your pedalling power to the slope of the road, wind conditions, and the desired speed. The gears do not reduce the physical work to be performed which remains the same with the identical distance to be performed at identical speed, but the pedalling force per crank rotation. In other words: A low gear allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You have to pedal, however, relatively fast.

Derailleur gears

Downhill you switch to a high gear. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres forward at correspondingly high speed. To ride economically you frequently have to switch gears. As with a motor vehicle, your „engine” wants to be kept within a certain speed range, if it is to give its best performance.

On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a minute. Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between 90 and

110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbing uphill, your cadence will naturally fall off somewhat.

Your pedalling should always remain fluent however.

Finely graduated adjustments as well as an easy operability of modern bike gears are the best preconditions for an efficient riding. In addition, it reduces chain and sprocket wear as well as the strain on your knee joints.

Rear derailleur

Derailleur gears are the most effective type of transmission on bikes. About 97 to 98 percent of the pedalling force performed is transmitted to the rear wheel with well-maintained and greased derailleur gears. The control of the gear system as well as the braking performance leave nothing to be desired.

Front derailleur

With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and clearcut lever positions, shifting gears has become very easy.

!

Always wear straight-cut trousers or use trouser clips or the like to make sure your trousers do not get caught in the chain or chainrings, throwing you off your bike.

HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO USE THEM

GEARS

65

THE GEARS - HOW THEY WORk AND HOW TO USE

THEM

With road bikes the shift levers are integrated in the brake lever. On a Campagnolo equipped bike moving the small shift lever located behind the brake lever inward by means of your index or middle finger shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pressing with your thumb on the shifter located on the inward facing side of the brake lever mount, moves the chain towards the next smaller sprocket.

Campagnolo shift/brake lever

With Shimano levers swivelling the entire brake lever inward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets.

Pressing only the small lever inward makes the chain move towards the smaller sprockets.

With SRAM Force doubletap levers there is only one shifting lever positioned behind the brake lever. A short tap to the inward moves the chain to a smaller sprocket. Sweeping the shifting lever more in means the derailleur shifts the chain to larger sprockets.

One tap can shift up to three gears.

With Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo bar end shifters for triathlon and time trial use the shifting lever is pressed downward to move the chain to the smaller sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the smaller chainrings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling the shifting lever upward you can switch to the larger sprockets and larger chainrings.

Shimano shift/brake lever

SRAM shift/brake lever

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Keep on pedalling without force while you shift. This will lead to a smooth and quiet gear change and reduce the wear.

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If your road racing bicycle is fitted with an electronic shifting system Di2 from Shimano, also read chapter “Shimano Di2”.

Bar end shift lever

66

GEARS

HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO USE THEM

The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the rear derailleur via bowden cable. Then the rear derailleur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the next sprocket. It is therefore important when changing gears to continue pedalling smoothly without force as long as the chain is moving between sprockets or chainrings!

There are, however, special guides in the chainrings which allow for changing gears under force.

Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the smallest chainring and the outmost sprocket

Changing gears under load shortens, however, the service life of your chain considerably. Therefore, avoid changing gears while pedalling with force, in particular when changing gears with the front derailleur.

Canyon road bikes are usually equipped with 20 or

30-speed derailleur gears and two to three chainrings at the front and ten sprockets at the rear wheel hub. Some gears with particular chain run should be avoided. Gears with an extremely oblique run of the chain enhance a higher inner friction, which reduces the power transmission efficiency and hastens wear of the chain.

An unfavourable run of the chain is when the smallest chainring (front derailleur) is used with one of the two or three outermost (smallest) sprockets (rear derailleur) or when the largest chainring is used with one of the inmost (largest) sprockets.

Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the biggest chainring and the inmost sprocket

Practise changing gears in a place free of traffic until you are familiar with the functioning of the different levers or twist grips. If you do so in road traffic, your attention might be drawn off from possible risks.

i

Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain.

Do not shift under load, as this will shorten the durability of the chain considerably.

Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chainstay and chainrings. Avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in particular when shifting with the front derailleur.

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

GEARS

67

CHECkING AND READjUSTING THE GEARS

The derailleur gears were thoroughly adjusted by the

Canyon team before delivery of your Canyon. The bowden cables may, however, give way on the first kilometres making gear changing imprecise. This will result in the chain not wanting to climb onto the next larger sprocket.

REAR DERAILLEUR

With road bikes the adjustment is carried out by turning the adjusting bolts at the right cable stop on the down tube. There is another adjusting bolt directly at the rear derailleur.

Increase the tension of the bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the entry to the shift lever or rear derailleur.

After tensioning the bowden cable check whether the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To do this you either have to turn by hand the cranks or ride your Canyon.

If the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it also readily shifts to the small sprockets when you change to a higher gear.

You may need several tries to get the derailleur system properly adjusted.

Road bikes have non-adjustable shift levers and instead are provided with stepwise adjustable limit stops on the down tube. Just release the bolts in half-turn steps.

Retightening of the bowden cable at the adjusting bolt of the rear derailleur

Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check whether the pulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of the adequate sprocket chanic.

Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced me-

i

If you want to try adjusting it yourself, be sure to read the operating instructions of the manufacturer. In case you face any problem with the gears, please contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

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Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turning the cranks and shifting through you can easily check the function.

68

GEARS

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

ADjUSTMENT OF LIMIT STOPS

The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws which limit the swivel range of the rear derailleur, thus preventing the rear derailleur and chain from colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping off the smallest sprocket. The limit screws do not change their position during normal use.

If your Canyon topples over, the rear derailleur or its attachment might get bent. You should therefore check the swivel range after any incident or when mounting other wheels onto your Canyon.

Reduce the swivel range of the rear derailleur with the limit screws

Shift the gear lever to the highest gear (smallest sprocket). The inner cable is then totally relaxed and the chain will automatically run on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check, whether the pulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of this sprocket.

If this is not the case, you have to adjust the position by means of the limit screw. The limit screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low gear. In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e. with the chain running on the smallest sprocket.

If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error. Turn one of the screws counting the number of turns and watch the rear derailleur. If it does not move, turn the bolt back to its original position.

Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel and anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.

Change gears to the biggest sprocket. Be careful as you do so, as not to let the rear derailleur collide with the spokes. When the chain runs on the biggest sprocket, see whether you can take the rear derailleur even further by moving the shift lever to the end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleur further towards the spokes by hand. Spin the wheel.

Check whether the rear derailleur remains clear of the spokes

Limit screws

Improperly adjusted limit stops or a bent rear derailleur mount can result in a severe damage to the bicycle and a rear wheel blocking.

Risk of an accident!

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

GEARS

69

If the pulley cage touches the spokes or if the chain begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, you should reduce the swivel range. Turn the screw marked “L“, until you are absolutely sure the rear derailleur does not collide with the spokes.

Check the position of the pulley cage towards the sprocket. The gap between pulley and the largest sprocket should leave a clearance of one to two links at least.

The rear derailleur is equipped with a bolt located at the drop-out front which serves the purpose of adjusting this clearance. Screw in this bolt until the clearance is as desired. Turn the cranks backwards for checking purposes. The pulley should not touch the sprocket during this movement, as well.

In case the clearance still does not suffice, changing gears being thus impeded, you have to shorten the chain by one link. This means an increased tension on the rear derailleur. It must, however, be ensured that the chain can run on the largest chainring as well as on the largest sprocket. Due to the extremely oblique run of the chain, this gear should however be avoided.

To adjust the clearance between pulley cage and sprocket, turn the bolt located at the front side of the drop-out

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Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turn- ing the cranks and shifting through you can easily check the function.

bicycle.

Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjusting the gears of your

70

GEARS

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

FRONT DERAILLEUR

Adjusting the front derailleur requires a great deal of experience. The range within which the front derailleur keeps the chain on the chainring without itself touching the chain is very small.

It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than to risk having the chain fall off the chainring, which would interrupt the power train of your Canyon.

Retightening of the bowden cable at the adjusting bolt on the frame

As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.

Increase the tension of the cable by turning the adjusting bolt at the down tube of the frame. This works mainly, as described in section „Checking and readjusting the gears“.

Reduce the swivel range of the front derailleur with the limit screws.

Adjusting the swivel range of the front derailleur

!

The initial adjustment of the front and rear derailleur is a job for an experienced mechanic. Maldadjustments may cause severe mechanical damage. For more information be sure to read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. In case you face any problem with the gears, please contact our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Adjusting the front derailleur is a delicate job. Improper adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting the power train. Risk of an accident! Adjusting the front derailleur is a job for professionals.

!

After having adjusted the gears and chain it is essential to take your Canyon for a test ride in a level, unfrequented area (e.g. in a parking lot)! If the adjustments turn out to be improper when riding in road traffic, you may lose control over your Canyon.

!

Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the front derailleur are still parallel to the chainrings!

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

GEARS

71

SHIMANO Di2

The Di2 is the electronic version of the high quality shifting groupsets from Shimano. Instead of cables the signal is transmitted by wires. The rear and the front derailleurs are moved by small electrical motors. With an oblique running chain the Di2 front derailleur is even readjusted automatically to avoid grinding noises and unnecessary wear.

The power supply is provided by a rechargeable battery that is mounted to the frame.

CONTROL

Di2 front derailleur

With the Di2 you no longer have to move inwards the entire brake lever or the lever of the conventional

Dual Control shift lever from Shimano, but only to gently push control buttons. Shifting with the oblong control button on the side of the brake lever shifts to the larger chainrings/sprockets. Pushing the triangular control button that is located behind the brake lever makes the chain move to the smaller chainrings/ sprockets.

There is the option to have the control button function changed by your bicycle dealer if desired. The only thing necessary to do so is a special test device from Shimano that is also used for troubleshooting.

Rear derailleur

Before using your new Di2-shifting sys- tem, be sure to do a test ride in an area free of traffic.

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Be sure to read the enclosed operating instructions of the gear manufacturer.

72

GEARS

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

BATTERY

A new, fully charged battery allows you to ride approx.

1,000 km (620 miles). An about 25 % charged battery still runs approx. 250 km (150 miles).

With a weak battery the front derailleur is the first component to stop working, followed by the rear derailleur. In this condition you can still ride some more kilometres and shift with the rear derailleur. The battery should, however, be recharged as soon as possible. When the battery is empty the rear derailleur remains in the previously chosen gear. Shifting into another gear is impossible from that moment on!

Di2 battery

You can check the battery’s state of charge at any time. Push one of the control buttons and hold it 0.5 seconds at least. The LED on the control unit indicates the state of charge:

- green light is one for about 2 seconds:

battery’s state of charge 100 %

- green light blinks 5 times:

battery’s state of charge about 50 %

- red light is one for about 2 seconds:

battery’s state of charge about 25 %

- red light blinks 5 times:

battery’s state of charge empty

Over time, the capacity of the battery will degrade and so will the distance you will be able to ride. This process is inevitable. When the achievable distance you will be able to ride no longer meets your requirements, you must replace the battery.

Recharge the battery only with the charger delivered together with the battery!

Keep a nearly charged battery (50 % or more) that is not used for a longer period of time in a dry, cool place and out of the reach of children. After six month at the latest you should check the state of charge. Mount the protective cover on the battery’s contact area prior to storage.

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Recharging the (empty) battery will take about 1.5 hours.

CHAIN

GEARS

73

CHAIN MAINTENANCE

It still holds true that proper lubrication makes for enjoyable riding. What counts is, however, not the quantity, but the distribution and regular application of lubricant.

Clean your chain from dirt and lubricant with an oily rag from time to time. There is no need to use special degreasers.

Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links.

To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers while you turn the crank.

This done, pedal through several chain lengths and then let the chain rest for a few minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.

Finally rub off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around or attract dirt during riding.

Clean the chain from dirt and oil with a rag

Clean the chain as thoroughly as possible and apply lubricant

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For the sake of the environment, only use biodegradable lubricants. Bear in mind that some of the lubricant will always end up on the ground, especially in wet conditions.

Make sure the braking surfaces of the rims and the brake pads remain clear of lubricants, as the brakes will fail otherwise!

74

GEARS

CHAIN

CHAIN WEAR

Although the chain is one of the wearing components of your Canyon, there are still ways of influencing its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which allow a more or less straight run of the chain. Get in the habit of pedalling at a high cadence

(more than 60 to 70 strokes/minute).

With road bikes chains running on derailleur gears are worn out after about 1,200 to 4,000 km (740 to

2,480 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.

Check condition of chain

For this purpose run the chain on the large chainring. Take the chain between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the teeth. If you can lift it off clearly, it is seriously lengthened and in need of replacement.

There are accurate measuring instruments for precise chain inspection. Replacing the chain should be left to an expert, as most of the modern chains are not equipped with a master link. Instead they have a continuous design and require special-purpose tools for mounting. If you need help, ask a dealer to select and mount a chain appropriate to your gear system.

Professional wear measurement

An improperly riveted chain can break, possibly throwing you off your bike. Let your chain be replaced by an experienced mechanic.

CHAIN

GEARS

75

ADjUSTING THE CHAIN TENSION OF SINGLE SPEED

BICYCLES

THE GEARS - HOW THEY WORk AND HOW TO USE

THEM

So-called singlespeed bicycles, such as the V-Drome, have only one gear and therefore have neither rear nor front derailleur. Furthermore, they have a fixed hub.

In the case of these models the rear wheel sprocket is directly connected to the rear wheel. This makes the pedals rotate with every movement of the rear wheel – and vice versa. These bicycles often do not have brakes.

Singlespeed

CHECkING AND READjUSTING

The chain tension of singlespeed bicycles has to be checked and retensioned, if necessary, approx. every

1,000 km (620 miles) or 50 hours of use.

Turn the crank backwards and try to find the position with the strongest chain tension. If in this position you can lift the chain midways between chainring and sprocket by more than 1 cm, you should retension the chain.

Release the rear wheel axle bolts or nuts with an appropriate tool. Adjust the chain tension by pulling the rear wheel to the rear or by releasing/tightening the chain tensioner. Subsequently, you should be able to rotate the crank without resistance.

Adjust the rear wheel in the centre of the rear dropouts by using, if necessary, the chain adjuster as limit stop. Tighten the rear wheel axle nuts with a torque wrench.

Please check, whether the usage of singlespeed bicycles without brakes is permitted on public roads according to the Highway Code!

Chain adjusters only serve to tension the chain and to pre-adjust the rear wheel.

They do not fix the wheel in its position or avoid its slipping out.

If the chain is seriously lengthened, it must be replaced.

76

WHEELS

TYRES AND INNER TUBES

THE WHEELS - TYRES,

INNER TUBES AND AIR

PRESSURE

The wheels of your Canyon create the contact to the road or track you are riding on. They are subject to considerable stress through the weight of rider and baggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces or ground. Although wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes and nipples from losing a little tension on the first kilometres. For this reason it may be that the wheels must be trued up as early as after you have run them in over about 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles). Check the wheels regularly after you have run them in. It will rarely be necessary to tighten the spokes.

Wheel

The wheel consists of hub, spokes and rim. The tyre is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running around the base of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the spoke nipples and the edges of the rim base, which are often sharp.

If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the actual size of the old tyre. It is marked on the side of the tyre. There are two designations, the more precise of which uses millimetres. The number sequence

23-622 means that the tyre is 23 mm wide when fully inflated and that it has an inner diameter of 622 millimetres. By choosing a bigger tyre you risk that the tyre drags along the fork or the rear frame. Therefore, please mount a tyre of identical dimension.

Tyre size

Rim tape in the rim

If you mount a new tyre with another dimension, it might be possible that the clearance between the front of your shoe and the wheel will be reduced. This may make your foot colliding with the front wheel while riding at low speed and throw you off your bike!

TYRES AND INNER TUBES

WHEELS

77

Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure in order to work properly. Adequately inflated tyres are also more resistant to flats. An insufficiently inflated inner tube can easily get pinched (“snake-bitten”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.

The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of the tyre or on the type label.

The lower of the two pressure specifications makes for better cushioning and is therefore best for cycling on a rough surface. Rolling resistance decreases with increasing pressure, but so does comfort. A high tyre pressure is therefore most suitable for riding on tarred roads.

Race or Sclaverand valve

Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi (pounds per square inch). The table gives the most common pressure values in terms of three systems.

The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air (except for tubular tyres with road bikes). Therefore, an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure. The tube is pumped up via a valve.

Canyon bikes are equipped with Sclaverand or race valves. This type of valve is designed for highest pressures, but you need getting used to its handling. This valve is provided with a plastic cap to protect it from dirt.

Tyre pressure range psi bar

80 5.5

90 6.2

100 6.9

110 7.6

120 8.3

kPa psi

550 130

620 140

690 150

760 160

830

Air pressure in psi, bar and kPa bar kPa

9.0

9.7

900

970

10.3

1,034

11.0

1,103

Riding with too low air pressure may make the tyre come off the rim.

Tyres allowing an inflation pressure of five bars or more have to be mounted on hook bead rims, identifiable by the designation “C”.

Never inflate the tyre beyond its maximimum air pressure. Otherwise it might burst or come off the rim during the ride. Risk of an accident!

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With race valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and press it in carefully until air starts to escape.

78

WHEELS

TYRES AND INNER TUBES

Please note that the valves have different diameters.

Only use inner tubes with valves matching the rim.

Using a wrong valve may cause a sudden loss of air pressure and hence throw you off your bike.

With this valve type it may happen that the valve body is not screwed in properly and that air leaks out slowly. Check the seat of the valve body in its stem.

Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres to high pressure. A better choice is a stand pump equipped with a manometer which enables you to check the pressure at home. There are adapters for all types of valves which allow you to inflate a Sclaverand valve at the filling station.

Unscrewing the plastic cap

With race or Sclaverand valves the valve must be unscrewed

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With race or Sclaverand valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and press it in carefully until air starts to escape.

!

Always ride your bicycle with the pre- scribed tyre pressure and check the pressure at regular intervals, at least once a week.

Valve adapter

!

Make sure the valve diameter matches the hole in the rim and the valve is always in upright position!

Replace tyres with a worn tread or brittle or frayed sides. Dampness and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure.

Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.

Exception: With Mavic system wheels you do not need rim tapes.

In the extreme case damage to the tyres may make the tubes suddenly burst, throwing you off your bike!

RIMS AND SPOKES

WHEELS

79

RIM TRUENESS,

SPOKE TENSION

The spokes connect the rim to the hub in the middle of the wheel. An even spoke tension makes for the true running of the wheel. If the tension of individual spokes changes, e.g. as a result of riding too fast over a kerb or due to spoke breakage, the tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no longer run true. The functioning of your

Canyon may even be impaired before you notice the untrue wheel by its wobbling. With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An untrue wheel can impair your braking power.

Check of wheel trueness with brake pads

Truing stand

!

Loose spokes must be tightened at once.

Otherwise the load on the other spokes and the rim will increase.

!

pert!

Truing (retruing) wheels is a dif ficult job which you should de finitely leave to an ex-

Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-side wobbles the brake pads of road bike brakes can miss the rim and get caught in the spokes! This normally results in an immediate blocking of the wheels, possibly throwing you off your bike! It is therefore advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel from the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the gap between rim and brake pads. If the gap varies by more than a millimetre, you should ask a skilled mechanic to true up the wheel.

80

WHEELS

QUICK-RELEASE

WHEEL FASTENING WITH QUICk-RELEASES

The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub axles. Each axle is clamped tight in the drop-outs by means of a quick-release.

Quick-releases require no tools at all. Just release the lever, unscrew it a few turns, if necessary, and remove the wheel (see chapter “How to use the quick-release”).

Open the quick-release lever

However, a thief will find this just as easy to do! As an anti-theft measure you can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key.

Close the quick-release lever

The quick-release lever ought to be nearly parallel to the wheel and must not stick out

Never ride a bicycle without having first checked whether the wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst riding will throw you off your bicycle!

!

If your bicycle is equipped with quick- releases, be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.

PUNCTURE

WHEELS

81

REPAIRING

PUNCTURES

Tyre punctures can happen to any cyclist. As long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and tubes and a spare tube or a tyre repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle tour, however. For bikes with quick-releases all you need for changing tubes are two tyre levers and a pump; if your wheels are secured with nuts or anti-theft lock you also need a suitable wrench for removing the wheel.

WHEEL REMOVAL

Shift to the smallest sprocket before dismounting the rear wheel

If you have road bike caliper brakes, open the quick-release lever at the brake (Shimano and

SRAM)

or shift the pin in the shift/brake lever unit at the handlebars (Campagnolo).

If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest sprocket before removing the rear wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.

Open the quick-release, as described in chapter

“How to use the quick-release”. If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever or nut, it is probably still being held in place by drop-out catches. They come as projections which jut into the droup-outs. In these cases, just release the quick-release adjusting nut by a few turns and slip the wheel past the catch.

You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, if you pull the rear derailleur rearwards a little.

Lift your Canyon a little off the ground and give the wheel a light blow with your hand so that it drops out.

Opening the release lever at the brake

Drop-out catches at the fork

To remove the rear wheel pull the rear derailleur slightly to the rear

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REMOVING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES

Screw the valve cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate the tyre completely.

Press the tyre from the rim side towards the centre of the rim. You will find it easier to remove the tyre, if you do this around its entire circumference.

Apply the plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre about 5 cm left or right from the valve and lever the tyre out of the rim. Hold the tyre lever tight in its position.

Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a point about ten centimeters beyond the first one and lever the next portion of the bead over the edge of the rim.

After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever around the whole circumference.

Now you can pull out the inner tube. Take care the valve does not get caught, as this can damage the inner tube.

Repair the puncture according to the operating instructions of the repair kit manufacturer.

Press the tyre towards the centre of the rim

Apply the tyre levers and lift the tyre bead over the rim edge

Remove the inner tube from the tyre

If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the perforating object, replace the tyre as a precaution.

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Please read the operating instructions of the brake and the gear manufacturer, enclosed with the BikeGuard.

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After having removed the tyre, you should check the rim tape. The tape should lie squarely in the base of the rim covering all spoke ends and should neither be torn nor brittle. In the case of rims with double base – known as double chamber rims – the tape must cover the entire rim base. For this type of rim only use rim tapes made of fabric or durable plastic.

Exception: With Mavic system wheels you do not need rim tapes. In case you are not sure with regard to your rim tape, please contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

If necessary, you can remove the whole tyre by pulling the other tyre bead off the rim.

MOUNTING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES

Rim tape in the rim

When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter such as dirt or sand gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube.

Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your thumbs, press the bead over the edge of the rim over the entire circumference. You should be able to do this without any tools, regardless of the type of tyre. Stick the valve of the tube through the hole in the rim.

Inflate the tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the tube.

To finish mounting the tyre start at the point opposite the valve. Using your thumbs, press the second bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as far as you can.

Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and squashed between tyre and rim. This is prevented by pushing the inner tube into the tyre hollow with a finger as you work along.

Put the valve into the rim hole

Press the tyre with your hand onto the rim

Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.

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WHEELS

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Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically from both sides. Towards the end you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part of the rim base. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.

Check again the proper seat of the inner tube inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim by using the balls of your thumb.

If this does not work, you will have to use tyre levers. Make sure the blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.

Press the valve deep into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught between rim and tyre beads. Does the valve stand upright? If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube.

To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between rim and bead, inflate the tyre a little and then move it sideways back and forth between the sides of the rim. While doing this you can also check whether the rim tape has been displaced.

Inflate the inner tube only to the desired pressure.

The maximum pressure is indicated on the side of the tyre.

Check the proper seat of the tyre by means of the

“witness line” on the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim. Make sure the witness line is even with the rim edge all the way around the tyre.

Press the tyre to make sure the tube does not get caught between rim and tyre beads

Witness line all around the side of the tyre

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If you have a puncture en route, you can try to repair it without dismounting the wheel and without removing the tube. Inflate the tube, leave the valve sticking in the rim and first look for the hole where the air is escaping. Bring the inner tube close to your ear and watch out for hissing noises. When you have found the hole, look for the corresponding place on the tyre and examine it. Often you will find the foreign body sticking in the tyre. Remove it, if necessary.

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REMOVING TUBULAR TYRES

Deflate the tyre completely. To dismount the tyre, start opposite the valve by pushing the tyre to the side until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come off. If the tyre remains tight, stick a tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off the rim.

Replacing an individual tube is impossible. Instead you have to mount a complete tubular tyre. En route the tyre cannot be glued and is consequently not tight on the rim even when inflated.

Therefore, be sure to ride back very slowly and carefully by taking the shortest way possible. Back home, you have to glue the tubular tyre, as described in the following.

MOUNTING TUBULAR TYRES

Roll off the tyre until there is a gap

To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should take yourself some time and proceed stepwise. A little practice and experience with the glue and tubular model you are using can speed up the job.

Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tapes. One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However, this may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. In the event of a roadside puncture the tape will often cling to the dismounted tyre and your spare tyre may not bond to the rim sufficiently well.

A better alternative, therefore, is to glue the tyre to a generous bed of several layers of liquid tyre glue.

Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also remains on the rim when dismounting the tyre.

Use a tyre lever to remove the tyre

Tubular tyre glue

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If your bike has carbon rims, you have to use special tubular tyre glue (e.g. from

Continental). Be sure to read the operating instructions of the manufacturer of tubular tyre glue for carbon rims before applying it.

A poorly glued tubular tyre can come off the rim. Risk of an accident!

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WHEELS

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Nevertheless, you should still remove the spare tyre again after completing your tour. To achieve a stronger bond you can then retreat the adhesive bed and the tyre with glue and remount the tyre.

If your wheels have very high rim edges, unscrew the valve core from the valve with special mounting tools and mount a valve extension instead. Then screw the valve core into the extended valve. Now you can inflate and deflate the mounted tyre via the extended valve in the usual way.

Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and then stick the valve through the hole in the rim. Starting from the valve and working in both directions press the tyre into the rim all the way round.

If you are unable to mount it completely on the rim or if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, since it might not work with force alone.

Mounting the valve extension

After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre runs true. The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened which leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during the ride. Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the rim. If time permits, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few days to make the final mounting easier.

Clean the base of the rim from any grease or oil using a rag soaked in spirit or benzine.

Checking the true running with brake fingers and clothes. This makes it advisable to wear old clothes when mounting tubulars.

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Tyre glues do not only stick on rims and tyres, they also cling quite stubbornly to

When mounting a tyre on a rim that has already been used, it may be necessary to carefully remove glue residues and dirt with emery cloth. Be careful not to damage the carbon material. When you are done, wipe the rim with a soft rag and benzine.

Benzine and tyre glue should only be used in a well aired place, since both materials are highly flammable. Keep them in a safe place out of children’s reach.

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Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre is easiest with the wheel clamped in a truing stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.

With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive bed. Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the entire circumference of the rim.

Leave a section of five to ten centimetres without glue at a place just opposite the valve to make it easier to remove the tyre again at a later date.

With a little practice you will be able to apply the glue straight from the tube. If this does not work at first you might find it easier to use a stiff brush. If you are using tyre glue from a can you will need a brush in any case. Let the tyre glue dry until it loses its sticky liquid touch. This can take up to a few hours. In the same way add another two thin films of glue and let them dry. Leave the wheel as it is at least until the next day.

Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to the base tape. To complete the adhesive bed add one last film of glue. Let the topmost layer dry for a short time and, while it still feels syrupy, place the wheel on the ground with the valve hole facing upward. Inflate the tyre until it starts to round and then stick the valve through the valve hole and press it firmly against the rim. Make sure the sides of the tyre do not touch the adhesive bed, since your tyre will otherwise look smudgy right away.

Applying the tyre glue directly from the tube

Stick the valve of the slightly inflated tube through the hole in the rim

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Before dismounting a wheel, be sure to read chapters “The wheels” and “How to use the quick-release”.

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Have a look at the video to learn more about the secure gluing of Continental tubular tyres (www.conti-online.com)

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If you have left the section opposite the valve hole free of glue, you need not be concerned about glue smearing on the ground or dirt getting into the glue when you place the wheel on the ground.

Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with both hands, pull it vigorously downward and work it bit by bit into the base of the rim until you have about

20 centimetres left to go.

Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the not yet mounted section.

Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against the rim and your thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre with both thumbs into the base of the rim.

Heaving the tyre into the rim base

When the tyre is seated in the base, it has to be centred, as it will rarely run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it. If the tread does not run exactly in the centre or if it swerves to the side at any place, lift it up at that place, twist it a little into true and let it go again.

Pressing the tyre with the thumbs over the rim edge

When the tyre runs smoothly in the centre, take the wheel off the mounting stand and inflate the tyre to approximately half its nominal pressure. Lean your hands on the ends of the axle and quick-release skewers and roll the wheel a few metres on the ground. As you roll the wheel, vary between pressing it vertically downward and at a slant to either side.

Checking the tyre trueness with the brake pads

If the tyre still runs true during the final check, inflate it to its maximum pressure and wait 8 hours at least or even better a whole day, before setting off for the first time. Beforehand adjust the pressure of the newly mounted tyre according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and to your own needs.

Keep in mind that after dismounting a tubular tyre en route it will not be attached to the rim as firmly as before. Therefore, ride particularly carefully on the last part of your tour.

Back home, you will need to glue it properly again.

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Improper mounting can lead to malfunc- tion or tyre damage. It is therefore absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions enclosed with the delivery.

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MOUNTING WHEELS

Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse of dismounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the fork legs or the rear and chainstays. Check the proper seat of the quick-release (see chapter “How to use the quick-release”) and connect, if necessary, the brake cable immediately or close the release lever!

Checking the true running with brake pads

Witness line all around the side of the tyre

Improper mounting may cause malfunc- tion or even brake failure. It is therefore absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions enclosed with the delivery.

Close the quick-release lever (Shimano,

SRAM) or shift the pin in the shift/ brake-lever unit (Campagnolo) and check before you set off again, whether the brake pads hit the brake surfaces. Make sure the wheel is correctly and firmly fixed in the drop-outs. After mounting the wheel make sure the brake pads or the rim are free of grease or other lubricants. Be sure to do a brake test!

If the tyre fabric was, however, ruined by a perforating object, replace the tyre to be on the safe side.

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HEADSET

THE HEADSET

The headset connects fork, stem, handlebars and front wheel to the frame, but allows them to turn freely as a unit. It must afford virtually no resistance to turning, if your Canyon is to go straight, stabilizing itself as it runs. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces subject the headset to considerable stress. It may therefore happen to become loose and maladjusted.

CHECkING AND READjUSTING

Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head cup and by moving your Canyon back and forth with actuated brake lever

Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head cup.

Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull the front brakes with your other hand and push your

Canyon firmly back and forth with the wheel remaining on the ground.

If there is play in the bearing, the upper head cap will move noticeably relative to the lower cup.

Another way to check the headset is to lift the front wheel a little off the ground and then let it drop. If there is play in the bearing, you will hear a rattling noise in this area.

To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the frame until the front wheel no longer touches the ground. Move the handlebars from the left to the right. The front wheel should turn very easily from far left to far right without catching anywhere. A light tap on the handlebars should be enough to turn the wheel to the side.

To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the front wheel and move it

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Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience and should, therefore, be left to a skilled mechanic. If you want to try it by yourself, be sure to carefully read the operating instructions of the headset manufacturer beforehand!

Riding the bike with a loose headset in- creases the stress on fork and bearing considerably. This may damage the bearing or lead to a fork break with serious consequences!

Risk of an accident!

Check the secure seat of the stem after having adjusted the bearings, by holding the front wheel between your knees and trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel.

Otherwise, a loose stem can throw you off your bicycle.

HEADSET

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THREADLESS HEADSET: AHEADSET ®

The special feature of this system is that the stem is not encased by, but rather clamped onto the fork tube, which in this case is threadless. The stem is an important part of the headset bearings. Its clamping force secures the bearing in its set position.

Release the clamping bolts located on the sides or rear side of the stem.

Gently tighten a little the countersunk adjusting bolt on the top by using an Allen key.

Realign the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slanted when the wheel points straight ahead.

Retighten the clamping bolts located on the side of the stem by using an Allen key. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended tightening torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

Check the headset for play, as described further below. Be sure not to adjust the bearing too tight.

To do the check stand in front of your Canyon and take the front wheel between your knees. Take hold of the handlebars at the brake levers and try to turn them relative to the front wheel. If you are able to turn the handlebars, retighten a little the clamping bolt(s) of the stem.

Adjust the bearing play by means of the countersunk adjusting bolt at the top after releasing the clamping bolts on the side

Retighten the clamping bolts located on the side of the stem by using an Allen key

Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel

Check the secure seat of the stem after you have adjusted the bearing! A loose stem may throw you off your bike!

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Do not tighten this bolt, as it is intended for adjusting the play!

Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts the stem can crush the steerer tube.

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HEADSET

I-LOCk HEADSET

The special feature of this system is that the stem is clamped onto the fork tube, which in this case is threadless. The stem is an important part of the headset bearings. Its clamping force secures the bearing in its set position. Unlike the widely spread Aheadset ® system, this system allows a bearing adjustment with a firmly clamped stem.

Check the clamping bolts on the side and in the rear of the stem with a torque wrench according to the torque marked on them. Never exceed the given maximum torque.

Use a 2 mm Allen key and tighten the headless screw at the head cup carefully clockwise by a quarter turn to begin with.

Check the headset for play, as above described. Be sure not to tighten the bearing too much.

If necessary, tighten the screw by another quarter rotation and check again.

Make a final check by standing in front of your Canyon and taking the front wheel between your knees.

Use a torque wrench to check the stem clamping bolts on the side according to the marked torques

Adjust the bearing play with the adjusting bolt on the side

HEADSET

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Take hold of the handlebars at the brake levers and try to turn them relative to the front wheel. Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel.

If there is play in handlebars or stem, release the bolts, realign the component and tighten the stem clamping bolts to the recommended torques.

If there is still play in handlebars or stem even with the maximum permitted torque, please dismount the clamping, degrease it, apply a new layer of carbon assembly paste and reassemble.

Try twisting the handlebars relative to front wheel and stem

Apply some carbon assembly paste on fork tube or handlebars, if necessary

Check the headset again for play

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This clamping bolt is not to be tightened firm, but only intended for a careful adjustment of the play!

Check the secure seat of stem and handle- bars after you have adjusted the bearing!

A loose handlebar or stem may throw you off your bike!

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TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT OF YOUR

CANYON BIKE

TAkING YOUR CANYON BY CAR

There are several ways of transporting your Canyon by car. Canyon recommends putting the bike into the boot to take it with you.

Bikes do take away a lot of space inside a boot, but they are also better protected against dirt, theft and damage.

Transport by car

Take, however, care that the cables, lights and wires and in particular the gears do not get damaged. Protect the bike with padding material such as blankets or the like. This is also a good idea, when your bike is heavily soiled, so that the dirt does not wipe off on the seat upholstery.

Make sure to secure your bike.

If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impossible, nearly every car accessory dealer and car company offers carrier systems which allow bicycle transport without disassembly. The usual design involves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping the down tubes.

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Pull the brake lever and secure it with a strong rubber band, when transporting a cyclocross bike.

cyclocross bike with the wheels dismounted.

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If you have disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks before transporting your

In the event your Canyon has not been packed for dispatch according to the enclosed packing instructions, you have no right to claim repair of possibly occurring transport damage from Canyon Bicycles GmbH.

Do not use a bike carrier system on which the bike has to be mounted upside down, i.e. with handlebars and saddle fixed face down to the rack. This way of fastening the bike subjects the handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress during transport and can lead to failure of these parts! Do not buy a bike carrier system where the front wheel has to be removed and your Canyon is secured by the fork.

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Secure your Canyon when transporting it inside a car. In the event of an accident unsecured loads inside a car may be an additional risk for the occupants. Often you will find it necessary to dismount one or even both wheels to load the bike into the car. Be sure to read chapter

“The wheels”, notably section “Repairing punctures”, before removing a wheel.

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Transporting Canyon road bikes on con- ventional bike carriers with clamps is not permitted. Most clamps are potential sources of damage to large-diameter frame tubes! Carbon frames are particularly susceptible to being damaged irreparably. Unvisible damage occurring on this occasion may lead to severe crashes.

TRANSPORT

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Rear carriers are becoming more and more popular.

Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them.

Make sure the fastenings do not create any damage to the fork or frame. Risk of breakage!

Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety standards of your country!

TAkING YOUR CANYON BY PLANE

If you intend to take your Canyon with you when you go on a trip by plane, pack it into the BikeGuard or

BikeShuttle.

Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or cardboard box. Do not forget to take the necessary tools, a torque wrench, bits and this manual with you to be able to assemble the bicycle and to get it ready for use at your destination.

The Canyon BikeGuard

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If you have disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks before transporting your cyclocross bike with the wheels dismounted.

The Canyon BikeShuttle

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Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or cardboard box.

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Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are not hidden from view. For some carriers a second exterior rear view mirror is required by the road traffic regulations.

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Read the operating instructions of your bicycle carrier and observe the maximum load capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.

Check whether your bicycle is properly fastened before and at regular intervals during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from the roof carrier may endanger other road users.

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Bear in mind that your car has a greater overall height with the bicycle on it. Measure the overall height and place a sign stating the height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steering wheel so that it can be easily seen.

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CARE AND INSPECTION

GENERAL NOTES ON

CARE AND INSPECTION

Your Canyon is a product of high quality and technology. Nevertheless, as with other types of vehicles, you should still see to it regularly and have an expert do the scheduled maintenance work.

Lightweight bikes need to have their safety-relevant components replaced regularly (see chapter “Service and maintenance schedule”). This is essential to ensure the safe and reliable functioning of all components and for your bike to give you many years of riding enjoyment and safety.

WASHING AND CLEANING YOUR CANYON

Cleaning the Canyon with rag and water

Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter or in sea air harm your Canyon. You should therefore make a habit of regularly cleaning all the components of your Canyon and protecting them from corrosion.

Do not clean your Canyon with a steam jet. This cleaning method is quick, but it entails serious drawbacks.

As the water is ejected at high pressure in a narrowly focussed jet, it may pass through seals and penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants and consequently to greater friction and onset of corrosion. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing races in the long term. Steam jet treatment also tends to abrade stickers.

Check all lightweight components

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When working on your Canyon restrict yourself to jobs for which you are equipped and have the necessary knowledge.

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Do not clean your Canyon with a strong water or steam jet from a short distance.

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Protect the upward facing part of the chain stays and any places where cables might rub with foil, neoprene covers or the like. This will avoid any unpleasant scratches and abrasion marks.

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A much more gentle way of cleaning your Canyon is with a soft water jet and/or with a bucket of water and a sponge or large brush. Cleaning your Canyon by hand has another positive side-effect in that it enables you to discover defects in the paint or worn or defective components at an early stage.

After drying your Canyon you should impregnate its painted and metal surfaces with hard wax (except for rims with rim brakes). Apply the hard wax to spokes, hubs, bolts and nuts etc., as well. Use a hand-held atomizer for parts with small surfaces. Polish waxed surfaces with a soft cloth to give them a nice shine and make them water repellent.

Inspect the chain after you have finished cleaning and grease it, if necessary (see chapter “The gears”, notably section “Chain maintenance”).

Polishing paint and metal surfaces with hard wax

Check condition of chain

While cleaning, look for cracks, scratches, dents, as well as bent or discoloured material. If you are in doubt, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582. Have defective components replaced immediately and touch up paint defects.

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Before applying any hard wax on the frame of your Canyon, be sure to test it in a less visible spot first!

Keep cleaning agents and chain oil away from the brake pads and brake surfaces of the rim, as the brakes could fail otherwise (see chapter “The brake system”). Keep carbon clamping areas, such as handlebars, stem, seat post and seat tube, free from grease and oil.

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Remove tough oil or grease stains from painted and carbon surfaces with a petroleum-based cleaning agent. Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, methyl chloride etc., non-neutral, chemical or solvent-containing cleaning agents that could attack the surface!

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CARE AND INSPECTION

SAFEkEEPING AND STORING YOUR CANYON

If you regularly look after your Canyon during the season, you will not need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing it against theft. It is advisable to store your

Canyon in a dry and airy place.

There are some things to bear in mind when putting your Canyon away for the winter:

In flated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the bike is not used for a long time. If your Canyon is left standing on flat tyres for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres.

It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bike or to check the tyre pressure regularly.

Clean your Canyon and protect it against corrosion as described above.

Dismount the saddle and allow for any moisture that may have entered to dry away. Spray a little finely atomized oil into the seat tube (except for carbon frames).

Store your Canyon in a dry place.

Switch the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.

Store the bike with the chain on outmost sprocket and smallest chainring

Check the air pressure at regular intervals

CARE AND INSPECTION

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SERVICING AND INSPECTION

First service:

A special maintenance schedule has been developed by our experienced technicians. On the first kilometres/miles, for example, the wheels may be subject to a certain bedding in process or Bowden and brake cables may stretch, making gear shifting imprecise.

Depending on how much you cycle, the repair of worn down parts may be necessary already. In this case you will be contacted by a service technician beforehand.

Regular annual service:

Following a long and challenging season we recommend that you have your bike thoroughly checked.

Who could do this better than those who have built your bike?

The annual service will be carried out by our skilled staff according to a maintenance schedule tailored to your bicycle type.

The Canyon torque wrench

Keep cleaning agents and chain oil away from the brake pads and brake surfaces of the rim! Otherwise the brake might fail throwing you off your bike!

If your Canyon has carbon rims, do not hang it on the rims! Risk of breakage!

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In case you pack your Canyon to send it in to the Canyon workshop, be sure to strictly follow the packing instructions “How to pack your road bike” enclosed with the BikeGuard.

In particular lightweight components may have a reduced service life. For your own safety make sure to have the components listed in chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” checked at the indicated intervals and replaced, if necessary.

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To be able to enjoy your Canyon for many years it needs to be serviced regularly.

The schedule given in chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” is a rough guide for cyclists who ride their bike between 1,000 and 2,500 km

(620 and 1,550 miles) a year. If your Canyon does harder service, either because your mileage is consistently greater or because you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it will require correspondingly shorter maintenance periods. This includes frequent rides in the rain or generally in moist conditions, as well.

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CARE AND INSPECTION

Canyon safety check:

If you ride your Canyon clearly less than 1,000 km

(620 miles) a year, it requires correspondingly less servicing. In this case the Canyon safety check is exactly what you need. Our specialists have developed an extra schedule for this demand-oriented maintenance. This schedule includes less routines than an annual service, however all safety-relevant issues.

We recommend that you have this check carried out before setting off into the new bike season or before going on a bike trip so that you can take off without a care.

Please make an appointment in advance to ensure that your Canyon runs through this check as quickly as possible.

Have your Canyon serviced at regular intervals!

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If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use original spare parts.

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You will find numerous service movies on our website www.canyon.com that will help you carry out small repair and maintenance works. Never do work on your bicycle unless you feel absolutely sure about it! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

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SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

After the bedding-in period you need to have your bike serviced by an expert at regular intervals. The intervals given in the schedule below are supposed to be guidelines for cyclists who cycle around 1,000 to

2,500 km (620 to 1,550 miles) a year or around 40 to

100 hours. If your Canyon does harder service, either because your mileage is consistently greater or because you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces, it will require correspondingly shorter service intervals.

Component What to do

Lighting Check

Tyre equipment Check pressure

Tyre equipment Check tread and side walls

Before every Monthly Annually Other ride intervals

Brakes (rim) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, position of pads relative to rim

Test brakes in stationary

Brake cables/ Visual inspection lines

Rims Check wall thickness,

(aluminium) of replace, if necessary rim brakes

Fork (aluminium Check and carbon)

Replace

X

X

At the latest after second set of brake

pads

X

At least

every

2 years

X

After fall or

Bottom bracket Check bearing play

Bottom bracket Regrease

Chain Check and/or lubricate

Chain Check and/or replace

Crank

Coating

Check and/or retighten

Polish

X

X after 6 years

X

After

1,000 km

(620 miles)

X

At least every

6 months

SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

103

Component

Wheels/ spokes

Wheels/ spokes

What to do

Check wheel trueness and tension

True and/or retrue

Handlebar and Check stem, carbon and aluminium

Replace

Before every Monthly Annually Other ride intervals

X

If necessary

X

At least every

2 years

X

After fall or

after 6 years

Headset

Headset

Metal surfaces

Hubs

Hubs

Check bearing play

Regrease

Polish (except for rim sides)

Check bearing play

Regrease

Pedals

Frame-fork- unit

Check bearing play

Pedals Clean locking mechanism

Grease

Grease

Rear derailleur/ Clean, grease

Front derailleur

Quick-release Check seat

Bolts and nuts

Check and/or retighten

Valves Check seat

Stem/ Dismount and regrease or

Seat post reapply carbon assembly paste

(Caution: Do not grease carbon parts)

Cables: gear/ Remove and grease brakes

X

At least

every

6 months

X

X

X

X

X

Annually

Jobs marked “•” you should be able to do yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experience and suitable tools, this including e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you have any questions, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Jobs marked “x” should be left to an experienced and skilled bicycle expert (e.g. in an authorized, specialist bicycle workshop). Feel free to call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

104

RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

Component Bolted connection

Rear derailleur Mount (at frame/derailleur hanger)

Cable clamp

Pulley bolt

Front derailleur Mount to frame

Braze-on mount for direct fastening

Cable clamp

Shimano*

8-10 Nm

5-7 Nm

2.5-3 Nm

5-7 Nm

6-7 Nm

Campagnolo** SRAM ***

15 Nm

6 Nm

5 Nm

7 Nm

5 Nm

Dual Control Lever Mounting bracket bolt

/Ergopower/ (Allen bolt)

Doubletap

Hole covering

Bolt for cable stop on

6-8 Nm

0.3-0.5 Nm

1.5-2 Nm

10 Nm

Hub frame (screwdriver)

Quick-release lever 5-7.5 Nm

Counter nut for bearing adjustment with 15-17 Nm quick-release hubs

Free-wheel hub Sprocket cluster lock ring 30-50 Nm 40 Nm

5-7 Nm

5-7 Nm

5-7 Nm

5 Nm

6-8 Nm

40 (11-speed)

50 (10-speed)

Crank set Crank mount (cotterless, grease-free)

Crank mount Shimano Octalink 35-50 Nm

Crank mount Shimano Hollowtech II 12-15 Nm

Crank mount (Isis)

32-38 Nm

Crank mount (Gigapipe)

Spline

Shaft fixing bolt Ultra Torque

Chainring fixing 8-11 Nm

42 Nm

42-60 Nm

8 Nm

Sealed cartridge Sealed cartridge housing (square head) 50-70 Nm 70 Nm

35-50 Nm Bottom bracket Bottom bracket shell (Shimano

Hollowtech II, SRAM Gigapipe)

Pedal

Shoe

Octalink

Pedal axle

Cleat bolts

Spike

50-70 Nm

35-55 Nm 40 Nm

5-6 Nm

4 Nm

31-34 Nm

48-54 Nm

12-14 (steel)

8-9 (alu)

34-41 Nm

47-54 Nm

RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES 105

Component Bolted connection

Side-pull brake Brake pad fixing bolt

Seat post

Cable fixing bolt

Brake fastening bolts

Fixing bolt of saddle clamping at seat post head

Shimano*

5-7 Nm

Campagnolo** SRAM ***

8 Nm 8 Nm

6-8 Nm

8-10 Nm

6-8 Nm

10 Nm

20-29 Nm *** 18-22 Nm ****

5 Nm

8-10 Nm

* www.shimano.com

** www.campagnolo.com

*** www.sram.com

**** These are guide values given by the above-mentioned component manufacturers.

Observe any values given in the component manufacturers’ operating instructions.

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Some components have the maximum per- missible torque printed on them. Observe these limit values wherever you find them.

Mounting the handlebars with the Canyon torque wrench

The Canyon torque wrench

106

RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

Canyon frame:

Bottle cage bolts

Replaceable derailleur hanger

Canyon seat post clamp:

Smolik saddle clamp

Speedmax

Saddle clamp Aeroad

Adjusting bolt (on top) of Aheadset ® -stems

Seat post

Saddle clamp at seat post head

Seat posts with single bolt

Seat post with two bolts in line

Seat post with two bolts side-by-side in direction of motion

Speedmax

Monorail

4.5 Nm

1.5 Nm

3-5 Nm

3 Nm

5-7 Nm

Please use the following torques, unless otherwise indicated by the stem or seat post manufacturer on the component itself or in the respective assembly instructions.

Stem:

M5 bolts

M6 bolts

4.5-5.5 Nm

8-9.6 Nm

0.5-2 Nm

20-24 Nm

6-9 Nm

12-14 Nm

5 Nm

8 Nm

Tightening torque

All bolted connections on the components of your Canyon have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe operation of your bike. This is best done with a torque wrench that switches off as soon as the desired torque has been reached. Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maximum permissible torque in small steps. Check the secure seat of the component, as described in the relevant chapters. For parts without torque specifications, tighten the bolts gradually and check in between whether the component is already fastened sufficiently, as described in the relevant chapters.

Do not exceed the maximum torque.

i

If your bike has a carbon fork steerer

(which you can tell by the black colour), do not exceed 6 Nm when clamping the stem.

i

Some components have the maximum per- missible torque printed on them. Observe these limit values wherever you find them.

i

Also read the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers, if necessary, or visit the Canyon website at www.canyon.com

LEGAL REQUIREMENTS

107

LEGAL REQUIREMENTS

FOR RIDING ON

PUBLIC ROADS

In Great Britain

(as of January 2011)

According to the Highway Code in Great Britain your bicycle must be fitted as follows:

1. Lighting, rear lights, reflectors:

At night the bicycle must be fitted with the following lighting:

- front light, white

- rear light, red

- pedal reflectors, amber (for all bicycles manufactured after October 1, 1985)

In addition, it should be fitted with:

- front reflector, white

- spoke reflectors

[Law RVLR regs 13, 18 & 24)]

It is not required that the prescribed lighting is mounted upon sale of the bicycle. If it is, however, it must comply with these regulations.

Bicycles that are only used with good daylight visibility, such as e.g. road racing bicycles, are exempt from the lighting regulations.

2. Signalling devices

It is recommended that a bell be fitted.

3. Cycle helmets

Wearing a cycle helmet is not compulsory.

4. Taking Children with You

There are no rules as to the transport of children with bicycles.

5. Trailers

There are no rules as to the usage of trailers.

6. Other issues

Using cycle lanes is not compulsory.

Front light with test symbol

Rear light with test symbol

For further information see:

www.direct.gov.uk/

www.dft.gov.uk

www.ctc.org.uk/

(Cyclists’ Touring Club)

108

WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE

WARRANTY

Your bike was manufactured with care and delivered to you largely preassembled. We are obliged by law to guarantee that your bike is free of any defects which considerably reduce its value or fitness for use or make it worthless or useless. You have full warranty rights within the first two years after purchase. We are your contact in the event of defects and you can get in touch with us at the stated address.

In order for your claims to be processed smoothly it is necessary that you present your receipt. Therefore, please keep your receipt in a safe place.

To ensure a long service life and good durability of your bike only use it for its intended purpose (see chapter “Intended use”). Also observe the permissible load specifications and the instructions on transporting baggage and children (see chapter “Intended use”). The manufacturers’ assembly instructions

(above all the torque settings for bolts) and the prescribed maintenance intervals must be strictly followed, as well. Please observe the tests and routines listed in this manual or in any other manual enclosed with this delivery (see chapter “Service and maintenance schedule”) as well as any instructions as to the replacement of safety-relevant components, such as handlebars, brakes etc.

Always use your bike for its intended use

We wish you safe and happy cycling wherever your bike takes you. If you have any questions, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

i

Enclosed with the delivery you will find the operating instructions of the component manufacturers. Here you will find all details about use, maintenance and care. This manual contains multiple references to these specific and detailed operating instructions. Please make sure the individual operating instructions for clipless pedals and gear and brake components are in your possession and keep them in a safe place together with this leaflet and the manual.

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Carbon is a composite material which is used for weight-optimised designs. Surface irregularities on carbon components (small boils and pores) are unavoidable for reasons inherent in the manufacturing process. This does not constitute a defect.

WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE

109

A NOTE ON WEAR

Some components of your bike are subject to wear due to their function. The rate of wear depends on care and maintenance as well as on the way you use your bike (kilometres travelled, rides in the rain, dirt, salt etc.). Bikes that are often left standing in the open may also be subject to increased wear through weathering.

These components require regular care and maintenance. Nevertheless, sooner or later they will reach the end of their service life, depending on conditions and intensity of use.

Brake pads with worn down wear indicators, i.e. grooves, (bottom brake pad) must be replaced by original spare parts

Parts that have reached their limit of wear must be replaced. This applies to the following parts:

chain,

cables,

grip coverings or bar tape,

chainrings,

sprockets,

pulleys,

gears cables,

tyres,

saddle covering (leather) and

brake pads.

The brake pads of rim brakes are subject to wear due to their function. If you use your bike for competitive cycling or in hilly terrain, they may have to be replaced quite frequently. Regularly check the condition of the pads and have them replaced by a dealer.

Have the thickness of your rims checked at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads

RIMS WITH RIM BRAkES

Braking causes wear not only to the brake pads but also to the rims. Therefore, check your rims regularly, e.g. when pumping up the tyres. Rims with wear indicators have rings or a gap that come into view when the rim reaches its limit of wear. Take note of the specifications given on the rim. Ask an expert to examine the remaining thickness of the rims at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads.

Signs of deformation or fine cracks that appear in the sides of a rim when you increase the tyre pressure are an indication that the rim has reached the end of its service life. In this case the rim must be replaced.

110

WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE

GUARANTEE

Over and above the statutory warranty we give a voluntary guarantee of altogether 6 years on frames and forks of racing and triathlon machines.

This guarantee runs from the date of purchase and only applies to claims made by the initial buyer. It does not cover paint damage. We reserve ourselves the right to repair defective frames or forks or to replace them with the relevant successor model. These issues can be claimed under guarantee only. Additional costs, such as assembly and transport costs etc., shall not be borne by us.

The guarantee does not cover damage caused by improper or other than the intended use, such as neglect (poor care and maintenance), crashes, overloading or resulting from changes made to the frame or fork or from the mounting or remounting of additional components. Damage resulting from jumps or other types of overstress are likewise not covered by the guarantee.

Six-year guarantee

Canyon road, time trial, triathlon or track bikes are high-end sports equipment, representing lightweight construction as pinnacle of engineering. Also be a professional when it comes to handling of the material. Misuse, unprofessional assembly or insufficient servicing can render the racing machine unsafe. Risk of an accident!

CRASH REPLACEMENT

111

CRASH REPLACEMENT

In the event of an accident or severe crash, the high forces exerted on the frame and the fork can lead to structural failure during subsequent use. With our

Crash Replacement (CR) program we offer you the opportunity to replace your damaged Canyon frame at a greatly reduced cost. This offer is valid up to three years after the date of purchase. You’ll receive the same or a similar frame from our current product range (without add-on parts such as seat post, front derailleur or stem).

The CR-service is limited to the original owner and to damages that compromise the functionality of the bike. We reserve the right to suspend this service if we detect that the damage has been caused unreasonably.

In order to claim the CR-service, please contact our service hotline by phone at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582 or by email.

For more details visit our website at www.canyon.com

Crash Replacement – damaged Canyon frames are replaced at reduced prices

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For more information about the use, read

PURE CYCLING

You will find us easily at Karl-Tesche-Strasse 12, Koblenz. Coming from motorway junction A48, exit Koblenz Nord, follow the road B9 in direction of Koblenz. On the Mosel Bridge filter to the second lane from the right into the city roundabout.

Take the first exit in direction of Cochem. After approx. 1 km (0.6 miles) turn right at the first traffic light.

Canyon Bicycles GmbH / Karl-Tesche-Straße 12/ D-56073 Koblenz

Showroom opening hours: Mon – Fri 10.00am – 7.00pm; Sat 9.00am – 6.00pm

Order and information hotline: +44 (0)20 8501 2582 / Order-fax: +49 (0)261 4040050 / E-Mail: [email protected]

Workshop hours: Mon – Fri 9.00am – 6.00pm; Sat 9.00am – 3.00pm

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