Chrysler Imperial 1958 Workshop Manual
Chrysler Imperial is a full-size luxury car produced by Chrysler from 1926 to 1975 and again from 1981 to 1983. It was the most expensive and luxurious car in the Chrysler lineup and was intended to compete with other luxury cars such as the Cadillac Fleetwood, the Lincoln Continental, and the Buick Roadmaster. The Imperial was available in a variety of body styles, including a four-door sedan, a two-door hardtop coupe, and a convertible.
Advertisement
Advertisement
CHRYSLER
SERVICE
MANUAL
MODELS
LC-l (WINDSOR) LC-2 (SARATOGA)
LC-3 (NEW YORKER) LC-4 (CHRYSLER C300D)
LY-1 (IMPERIAL)
This Manual is compiled as a reference and guide to provide
Chrysler service men with proper adjustment and repair procedures for servicing the 1958 Chrysler Cars.
An understanding of the material compiled herein, and in the supplementary service bulletins, will assist the service personnel to maintain the quality standards built in Chrysler
Cars.
In order to use this Manual to best advantage the corresponding or superseding car models must be understood.
The supersedence of these models is as follows:
1956 1957 1958
Windsor C-71 C-75-1 LCI
Saratoga - C-75-2 LC-2
New Yorker C-72 C-76 LC-3
Chrysler 300 D C77-C300 C76-C300 LC-4
Imperial C-73 IM1-1-2-4 LY-1
Crown Imperial C-70 — —
The service tools referred to in this Manual are available through the Miller Manufacturing Company, 17638 Grand
River Avenue, Detroit 27, Michigan, U.S.A. unless otherwise specified.
Extra copies of this Manual are available at $4.00 each, under Part Number D-16350. Order from Chrysler Division,
P. O. Box 1658, Detroit 31, Michigan.
CHRYSLER DIVISION
Chrysler Corporation
DETROIT 31, MICHIGAN
Chrysler Corportion reserves the right to make changes in design or to make additions to or improvements in its product without imposing any obligation upon itself to install them on its products previously manufactured.
D-16350
SECTION
Section I
Front Wheel Suspension
Section II
Axle - Rear
Section III
Brakes
Section IV
Accessory Belt Drives
Section V
Cooling System
Section VI
Electrical System
Section VII
Engine
Section VIII
Fuel and Exhaust Systems
Section IX
Frame, Springs and
Shock Absorbers
Section X
Steering
Section XI
Transmission
Section XII
Universal Joints and
Propeller Shaft
Section XIII
Wheels and Tires
Section XIV
Body and Sheet M e t a l -
Town and Country Wagon
Section XV
Lubrication
Section XVI
Radio and Heater
Section XVII
Air Conditioning
LITHO IN U.S.A.
12M-SD & TD-10-57
MyMopar.com
58x6
Fig. 1-Model LC-1 Windsor
Fig. 2-Model LC-3 New Yorker
58x8
Fig. 3-Model LY-1 Imperial
MyMopar.com
FACTORY CONTACT
The following outline of the proper procedure to use in contacting the factory for assistance or advice on any matter applying to Service will insure your inquiries receiving prompt attention and handling. Make certain those members of your organization who might have the occasion to contact the factory, are thoroughly familiar with this procedure.
Do not withhold action on any matter pending contact by a Factory Service Representative as his scheduled contact may be delayed by special assignments. When in doubt as to the proper procedure to follow in the handling of a claim or complaint, prompt results can be obtained through a letter, telegram or phone call to the proper Factory
Service Department—making certain to include the necessary information. If the aid of a Service Representative is necessary, the Factory Division involved will arrange for his contact as promptly as circumstances permit.
CHRYSLER DIVISION
All correspondence, telegrams, or phone calls, pertaining to Chrysler Cars, EXCEPT
THOSE COVERING PARTS ORDERS, as well as orders or requests for Chrysler
Service Bulletins, Owners Manuals, Shop Manuals, Time Schedule Manuals or other
Chrysler Service literature, should be addressed to:
(Letters) (Telegrams)
Chrysler Corporation Chrysler Division
Chrysler Division Attention,
Service Department (Name of person to whom sent)
P. 0. Box #1658 WUX
Detroit 31, Michigan Detroit 31, Michigan
(Phone) VAlley 2-4700
NOTE: Please make certain to include the code WUX on all telegrams to either the
Chrysler Division or Plymouth Division as this insures delivery direct to our
Teleprint Room thus eliminating delay.
Letters or telegrams should be confined to one subject only and should include the following information:
Car Serial Number Owner's Name
Date of Sale Mileage
Complete description of difficulty, corrective action taken, your recommendations as to what should be done and the reason for so doing.
Include Paint and Trim Code Numbers where finish, upholstery, body or sheet metal is involved, and estimate of net cost of repairs.
PLYMOUTH DIVISION
All correspondence, telegrams, or phone calls, pertaining in any way to Plymouth cars, as well as orders or requests for Plymouth Service Bulletins, Owner Manuals, Time
Schedule Manuals or other Plymouth Service literature, should be addressed to:
(Letters) (Telegrams)
Chrysler Corporation Plymouth Division
Plymouth Division Attention,
Service Department (Name of person to whom sent)
P. 0. Box #1518 WUX
Detroit 31, Michigan Detroit 31, Michigan
(Phone) WAlnut 1-8240
MASTER TECHNICIANS SERVICE CONFERENCE
All correspondence concerning enrollment in the M.T.S.C. Program, changes in enrollment records (the adding or dropping of personnel), issuance of awards, status of enrolled personnel, orders for additional material, the return of questionnaires, or any other matters relating to this program should be addressed to:
Master Technician Service Conference
Chrysler Corporation Training Center
Service Development and Training Department
P. O. Box 2119
Detroit 31, Michigan
MyMopar.com
PARTS DIVISION
General
ALL orders for parts or accessories, emergency or otherwise, should be forwarded direct to your usual source of supply or to the parts plant listed below serving the area in which you are located.
To insure your receiving the parts required by you more promptly, close attention should be given to the procedure listed under "Ordering Information" and "Your Parts
Orders" in the introductory front pages of all MoPar Parts Lists. Particularly where parts are ordered for a specific car, it is very essential that your order include the car serial and engine numbers, and, in the case of body parts, the body number.
ATLANTA
Chrysler Corp., Parts Division
Station A, P. 0. Box 206
Atlanta, Georgia
Phone—Plaza 5-2531
DELAWARE
Chrysler Corp., Parts Division
South College Avenue
Newark, Delaware
Phone—Newark 2521
Centerline
Chrysler Corp., Parts Division
P. O. Box 779
Detroit 31, Michigan
Phone—Jefferson 9-3000
KANSAS CITY
Chrysler Corp., Parts Division
Chrysler and Funston Roads
Kansas City 15, Kansas
Phone—Fairfax 3300
PACIFIC COAST
Chrysler Corp., Parts Division
1950 Davis Street
San Leandro, California
Phone—Sweetwood 8-6200
Parts Division Literature
Request for Parts Division literature such as Parts Books,
Bulletins, etc., should be forwarded direct to:
Parts Price Lists, Parts
Chrysler Corporation, Parts Division
P. O. Box 1718
Detroit 31, Michigan
Attention: Parts Advertising Department
Shortage of Accessories or Other Equipment on New Cars
Before placing an order for missing accessories, other parts or equipment, on new cars received, examine the vehicle for the presence of a "back order" notice, which if present, will be found attached to the bracket for the inside rear view mirror. Such back-ordered short items will be shipped from the assembly plant as soon as stock is available, and should not be ordered from the Parts Division.
Emergency Orders
Where a part required for an "Emergency" is not readily available from your usual parts source, an order plainly marked "Emergency Order" and including complete details on the need for the material, should be placed with the above parts plant serving the area in which you are located. Orders so marked and which are, in the opinion of the Parts
Division, for a bona fide immediate emergency need, will receive emergency handling.
Emergency orders should not be forwarded to the Division Service Department.
Should the occasion arise that the part required is not available at the plant ordered from, you will be notified that the part is on back-order. In the meantime, your order will continue to receive emergency handling by the Parts Division with shipment being made as promptly as it is available.
MyMopar.com
LICENSE DATA
VEHICLE NUMBER
The following revised method of numbering vehicles and their engines made in Detroit and
Los Angeles production Plants will be used on the 1958 Models.
This revision will provide the Sales Department with the information desired as to model year built and the serial number.
For Detroit built cars, the vehicle number will be revised as follows:
Windsor
Saratoga
New Yorker
Chrysler 300D
Imperial
LC-1 1001
LC-2 1001
LC-3 1001
LC-4 1001
LY-1 1001
Fig. 4-Vehicle Number
The vehicle number is stamped on a metal plate attached to the left front door body hinge post, as shown in Figure 4.
ENGINE NUMBER
Model
Serial Number-
For L. A. built cars, the vehicle will be revised as follows:
Windsor
Saratoga
New Yorker
L. A. Identification
LC-1 L 1001
LC-2 L 1001
LC-3 L 1001
T
Fig. 5—Engine Number
The engine number is stamped on a boss on the top side of the cylinder block just back of the water pump, as shown in Figure 5.
BODY NUMBER
The Engine number will be revised as follows:
Windsor
Saratoga
New Yorker
Chrysler 300D
Imperial
58 W 1001
58 S 1001
58 N 1001
58 N3 1001
58 C 1001
Year Built
Model
•Serial Number-
157x600
Fig. 6—Body Number
The body number is stamped on a metal plate attached to the top side of the radiator yoke, as shown in Figure 6.
MyMopar.com
Item Body Style
Four Door Sedan
Four Door Sedan
Four Door Sedan
Four Door Sedan
Wheelbase Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
Tread (Front; ) Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
Tread (Rear) Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
Length with
Bumper
Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
Width with
Bumper
Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
Rear Axle with Torque-
Flite Trans.
Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
Tire Size Four Door Sedan
Convertible Coupe
Two Door (hard top)
Town & Country Wagon
Four Door (hard top)
GENERAL DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Starting Vehicle Numbers
Detroit Los Angeles LC-1
LC-1-1001 LC-1L1001 Windsor
T P 9 inm T P 9T ioni ..
T c* i inni T t~* QT 1 om
T v i 1 nri 1
LC-2
Saratoga
1958 Models
LC-3
New Yorker
59.8
59.8
59.8
59.8
218.0
218.0
217.7
218.0
79.6
79.6
79.6
79.6
2.93
2.93
3.18
2.93
8.00x14
8.00x14
8.50x14
8.00x14
60.9
60.9
60.9
60.9
122
122
122
122
126
126
59.8
59.8
59.8
220.2
220.2
220.2
126
60.9
60.9
60.9
79.6
79.6
79.6
2.93
2.93
2.93
8.50x14
8.50x14
8.50x14
61.2
61.2
61.2
61.2
61.2
60.0
60.0
60.0
60.0
60.0
220.2
220.2
220.2
219.9
220.2
126
126
126
126
126
79.6
79.6
79.6
79.6
79.6
2.93*
2.93*
2.93*
3.18
2.93*
9.00x14
9.00x14
9.00x14
9.00x14
9.00x14
*Air Conditioned Cars use next highest Ratio
Shipping Weight (Estimated) Four Door Sedans (Dry)
LC-1 3922 Pounds including TorqueFlite Transmission
LC-2 4145 Pounds including TorqueFlite Transmission
LC-3 4298 Pounds including TorqueFlite Transmission
LY-1 4738 Pounds including TorqueFlite Transmission
LY-1
Imperial
129
129
129
62.4
225.7
225.7
225.7
225.7
81.2
81.2
81.2
81.2
129
61.8
61.8
61.8
61.8
62.4
62.4
62.4
2.93*
2.93*
2.93*
2.93*
9.50x14
9.50x14
9.50x14
9.50x14
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—1
Section I
TORSION-AIRE
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
CONTENTS
Page
Lubrication 3
Servicing the Front Suspension System 3
Servicing the Sway Bar 5
Servicing the Upper Control Arm 7
Servicing the Lower Control Arm 8
Checking Front Suspension Height 9
Front Wheel Alignment 11
Checking Steering Axis Inclination 17
Servicing the Ball Joints 18
Servicing the Torsion Bars 19
Front Wheel Bearings 20
Service Diagnosis 21
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Caster
-H" ± W
Caster
MANUAL STEERING
Camber
0° ± H° (right)
+ M° ±
l
A° (left)
Steering Axis
Inclination
5° to 7°
At 0° Camber
WITH POWER STEERING
Camber
0 ° ± M° (right)
+ M°±M°(left)
Steering Axis
Inclination
5° to 7°
At 0° Camber
SPECIAL TOOLS
Toe-In y* ± w
W Preferred)
Toe-In
(%" Preferred)
C-3553 Remover and Installer—Shock Absorber Lower Bushing
C-3557 Installer—Lower Control Arm Bushing
C-3558 Remover and Installer —Upper Control Arm Bushing
C-3561 Wrench—Ball Joint Assembly to Upper and Lower Control Arm
C-3564 Remover-Ball Joint Stud
C-3608 Gauge-Front-End Height and Level
MyMopar.com
2—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Foot-Pounds
Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Nut 25
Shock Absorber Lower Mounting Nut 40
Sway Eliminator Shaft Link Nuts 15
Sway Eliminator Insulator Retainer Nuts 25
Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 135
Strut to Lower Control Arm Mounting Bolts 65
Lower Control Arm Strut Bushing Nut 35
Shaft to Lower Control Arm Bushing Retainer Nut (Inner) 125
Upper Ball Joint Stud Nut 135
Lower Control Arm Shaft to Crossmember Mounting Nut 200
Upper Control Arm to Support Bracket Mounting Bolt Nuts 55-65
Control Arm Support Bracket to Frame Bolt (}/£") 70
Steering Knuckle to Brake Support Bolt 55
Steering Knuckle to Steering Knuckle Arm Nut 50
UPPER CONTROL ARM
BRACKET
SHOCK ABSORBER
TORSION BAR SPRINGS
CAR HEIGHT MANUAL
LEVELING DEVICE
FRONT SWAY BAR
AND HINGE
LOWER CONTROL
B A L L J 0 I N T
S
ARM SI RUT
Fig. 1—Frame and Front Suspension
UPPER CONTROL ARM
LOWER CONTROL ARM
57X197
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—3
Section I
TORSION-AIRE
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
The Torsion-aire Front Suspension System Figures 1, 2 and 3 is retained on the 1958 cars.
This new suspension gives improved steering and directional stability with the anti-brake dip principle built into the design, the tendency of the nose of the car to dip when braking is reduced to a minimum. Torsion bar springs also permit relocating of steering linkage and control arm inner pivot points, so that their steering geometries are more nearly matched resulting in less wheel fight because the vertical movements of the road wheels have little effect on the steering linkage. The new system also offers a number of other advantages in terms of longer part life and ease of servicing.
1. LUBRICATION
The suspension points requiring lubrication are effectively sealed against entry of dirt, dust, and water, however, the upper and lower ball joints should be carefully lubricated. The following lubricating procedure is recommended:
Raise the front of the car in such a manner that the weight of the car is on both lower control arms as close as possible to the ball joints.
NOTE: When this has been properly executed, the lower ball joint will be unloaded and the upper control arm rebound bumper will be away from the stop bracket on the frame.
Apply grease gun to fitting on lower ball joint and lubricate generously. Trigger the grease gun so that pressure is applied intermittently. Applying the grease in this manner will cause an up and down motion in the ball joint assembly to assist in thoroughly lubricating the joint. It is also advisable to turn the steering gear to left and right to allow the grease to penetrate the whole assembly.
NOTE: The upper ball joint cannot be unloaded, but grease should be applied generously while turning the steering and front wheel assembly from left to right to allow the lubricant to penetrate the joint.
CAUTION
Leaded compounds of more than 10% leaded powder in the lubricant should never be used, also the ball joints should not be heated or reworked. They should be replaced if found not serviceable.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
2. SERVICING THE FRONT
SUSPENSION SYSTEM
The upper control arms are mounted on removable brackets which are bolted to the frame sub side-rail. Shim packs are mounted between brackets and frame side-rail to establish caster and camber settings for each front wheel, as shown in Figure 4.
The lower control arms are assembled to pivot shafts and mounted to frame crossmember in replaceable rubber bushings, as shown in Figures 5 and 6. The pivot shafts extend through the crossmember and from the axis of lower control arms. The steering knuckles are connected, as shown in Figures 7 and 8, to upper and lower arms through ball joints, thus eliminating the king pins. This also eliminates the king pin inclination procedures and the term "Steering Axis Inclination" will be used hereafter.
To prevent the possibility of any fore and aft movement of the lower control arms, a strut is attached from frame crossmember to
MyMopar.com
4—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BOLT
SUPPORT BRACKET
BUSHING
UPPER CONTROL ARM
SHOCK ABSORBER
NUT
WASHER
NUT
BUSHI
LOCKWASHER
SHAFT
LOCKWASHER
COTTERPIN
NUT
RETAINER
WASHER
NUT
NUT
BUSHING
WASHER
LINK
SWAY BAR
NUT
COTTERPIN
BUSHING
STRUT
RETAINER
WASHER
LOCKWASHERS
BUMPER
BUSHING-
WASHER
'SUPPORT BRACKET
>OLT
,LUBE FITTING
'BALL JOINT-UPPER
BUSHING
SWIVEL—*«_
BOLT
TORSION BAR
SEAL-INNER
SEAL-OUTER
RETAINER
UMPER
STEERING KNUCKLE
FLAT WASHER
NUT
COTTERPIN
UT
T WASHER
OTTERPIN
BOLT
SEAL
LOWER CONTROL ARM
LOCKWASHERS
BALL JOINT-LOWER
RETAINER
NUTS
WASHER
NUT
LUBE FITTING
Fig. 2—Front Suspension (Disassembled View)
57x70A
Fig. 3—Lower View Front Suspension Assembly
57x81
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UPPER CONTROL ARM*
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—5
/ ' / S T E E R I N G KNUCKLE7\
f fJBK*.IJPP5 CONTROL"ARM BALL JOINT
|57x59f
Fig. 4—Upper Control Arm, Shim Pack and Bracket
COTTER
PIN
STRUT MOUNTING BOLTS
LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT
Fig. 7—Steering Knuckle and Ball Joint Assembly
WASHER
NUT
TORSION
BAR
NUT
WASHER
57x63 A
COTTER PIN
LOWER CONTROL ARM
Fig. 5—Lower Control Arm Pivot Shaft and Bushing Assembly
SWAY BAR STRUT BAR
BUSHING
LOWER CONTROL ARM
SWAY BAR BUSHING
Fig. 6—Lower Control Arm, Strut and Sway
Bar Assembly x268 lower control arm, as shown in Figure 6. The forward end of the struts are mounted in the front crossmember with replaceable rubber bushings, as shown in Figure 9.
The sway bar shaft is insulated and mounted to frame and the lower control arm. (Figs. 6 and 10.)
The front end of the torsion bars are indexed with lower control arms at frame front crossmember pivot points (Figs. 1 and 2). The rear end of torsion bars are indexed in anchors which are supported by brackets welded to frame side-rails and crossmember, as shown in
Figure 11. The torsion bar springs (Fig. 12).
3. SERVICING THE SWAY BAR
(FIGS. 6 and 10)
MyMopar.com
6—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
LUBRICANT FITTING
UPPER BALL
JOINT ASSEMBLY
UPPER
CONTROL
ARM
OUTER SEAL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FRAME
INSULATOR ASSEMBLY
FRONT SWAY BAR
BUSHING ASSEMBLY
LOWER CONTROL
STRUT
-SWAY BAR SHAFT a
Fig. 10—Front Sway Bar to Frame Attachment
ENGINE REAR
LOWER
BALL JOINT
ASSEMBLY
LOWER
CONTROL
ARM
LUBRICANT FITTING KJI 57x65A
Fig. 8—Upper and Lower Steering Knuckle Ball
Joint Assembly
RETAINERS
STRUT
FRAME
BUSHING
57x64 A
Fig. 9—Front Strut Bar Bushing Assembly
ADJUSTING BOLT
TORSION BAR
ANCHOR BRACKET
Fig. 11—Torsion Bar Spring Cam and Height Adjustment Bolt Assembly a. Removal
The front sway bar is attached to frame and strut bars through insulated rubber mounting brackets. To remove the sway bar proceed as follows:
Remove two sway bar link retaining nuts and concave washers. Remove two sway bar cushion retaining nuts, lockwashers and bolts,
(one on each strut). Slide sway bar out through control arm struts and away from vehicle. The sway bar cushions are not serviced separately.
If replacement is necessary, install new sway bar assembly.
Remove lower concave washers. Remove sway bar link insulating bushings from frame bracket by forcing out of position. If bushings are worn or deteriorated, install new ones as required.
b. Installation
Dip new sway bar link bushing in water, install in opening in frame bracket, using a twisting motion. When installed properly, the groove
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
EXHAUST PIPE CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLTS
ADJUSTING CAM /| ADJUSTING BOLT
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—7
UPPER CONTROL ARM
WOOD B10OC
BUSHING
ANCHOR BRACKET
LOCK RING
RIGHT HAND SIDE TORSION BAR
FRAME CROSSMEMBER
CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLT
CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLTS
ADJUSTING BOLT
ADJUSTING CAM
FRAME
CROSSMEMBER
ANCHOR BRACKET
LOCK RING
LEFT HAND SIDE TORSION BAR
CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLT
57x78
Fig. 12—Torsion Bar Spring (Rear Mounting) in bushing will index with opening in frame bracket.
Thread sway bar into position over top of lower control arm struts. Engage sway bar cushion housings with struts and install lockplates. Insert bolts, lockwashers and nuts.
Tighten to 25 foot-pounds torque. Install washers over ends of links (concave side up), then slide links up through bushings. Install washers (concave side down), over ends of links and down on bushings. Install nuts and tighten to 15 foot-pounds torque.
4. SERVICING THE UPPER CONTROL ARM a. Removal (FIG. 2)
Place a jack under frame crossmember and lift front wheel off floor. Remove wheel and tire
57x77 A
Fig. 13—Removing Upper Control Arm Bushing assembly. Remove cotter pin, nut, and washer from upper ball joint stud. Install tool and load studs. Using a hammer, remove ball joint stud from steering knuckle by striking the ball joint boss on knuckle sharply. Do not hammer on threaded section of stud.
Remove upper control arm front and rear pivot bolt. Remove control arm from support mountings. Do not remove brackets from frame.
b. Installation
Position upper control arm in support mounting bracket and install front and rear mounting bolts, washers, and nuts. With control arm in normal position tighten nuts to 60 to 70 footpounds torque. Place upper ball joint stud in steering knuckle and install washer and nut.
Tighten nut to 135 foot-pounds torque and secure with cotterpin.
5. UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHING—
REPLACEMENT
Remove upper control arm. Refer to "Upper
Control Arm—Removal", Paragraph 4.
Remove bushings by either pressing them out with Tool C-3558 (Fig. 13) or using a hammer and suitable drift.
NOTE: Make definitely sure control arm is properly supported when removing bushings.
If hammer and drift are used, extreme care must be exercised to avoid damaging bushing surface in the control arm.
MyMopar.com
8—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
When installing new bushings, always make sure control arm is supported squarely at the point bushing is being pressed in. Position flange end of new bushing in Tool C-3558 (Fig.
14), and support control arm squarely. Using an arbor press, install bushings (flange out) into control arm until the flanged portion of bushings seat on arm.
Install upper control arm. Refer to "Control
Arm—Installation", Paragraph 4.
6. UPPER CONTROL ARM SUPPORT
MOUNTING BRACKETS
The upper control arm support mounting brackets are bolted to the frame side-rails and should not be removed unless they have been damaged due to accident, etc. When removing the mounting brackets, extreme care should be taken so not to lose the alignment shim pack located between the bracket and frame side-rail. In event a shim pack is lost, a selection of shims
%
6
inch thick may be used as a starting point when reassembling.
7. SERVICING THE LOWER CONTROL ARM
(FIGS. 5 and 6) a. Removal
Raise car by placing jack under frame crossmember. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove torsion bar spring from lower control arm to be removed. Refer to "Servicing Torsion Bar
—Removal", Paragraph 17. Remove shock absorber lower eye attachment nut and bolt from mounting bracket. Push lower portion of shock
8USHING
WOOD BLOCK
UPPER CONTROL ARM
57x76 A
Fig. 14—Installing Upper Control Arm Bushing
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL absorber up into frame opening. Remove the two struts to lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts. Remove cotter pin, nut, and washer from lower ball joint stud. Remove lower ball joint stud from knuckle (Refer to Paragraph
16 (a). Remove cotter pin, nut and washer from lower control arm shaft assembly. With washer removed, reinstall nut (to protect threads) until it is flush with end of shaft.
The lower control arm shaft is a tapered fit in front crossmember. Use a hammer and brass drift for loosening, then remove nut from shaft.
Slide lower control arm and shaft assembly from rear of crossmember.
b. Installation
Position shaft and lower arm assembly in crossmember in normal position; and install washer and nut. Tighten 175 to 200 foot-pounds torque and secure with cotter pin. Position lower ball joint stud in steering knuckle and install washer and nut. Tighten nut 135 footpounds torque and secure with cotter pin. Place shock absorber in position in lower mounting bracket and install bolt and nut. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds torque. Install wheel and tire assembly. Do not lower front of vehicle at this time. Install torsion bar spring. Refer to "Servicing Torsion Bar Installation", Paragraph 17.
8. SERVICING THE LOWER CONTROL ARM
STRUT (FIGS. 6 and 9) a. Removal
Remove the nuts, lockwashers, and bolts that attach the sway bar bushing housing to struts.
Disconnect sway bar from struts. Remove the strut to lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the cotter pin, nut and bushing retainer from forward end of strut at front crossmember. Slide strut and inner bushing retainer from bushing in frame, as shown in Figure 9.
Using a knife, cut bushing out front of frame.
b. Installation
Dip new bushing in water and with tapered portion toward rear of vehicle, install in opening in frame using a twisting motion until groove in bushing indexes properly with frame.
With cupped side out, slide washer over threaded end of strut. Push strut through bushing in frame (Fig. 9). Slide outer washer
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
WASHER
SHAFT
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—9
57x74
Fig. 15—Removing or Installing Lower Control Arm
Pivot Shaft Bushing over end of strut (cupped side in). Install nut.
Tighten nut sufficiently to install strut to lower control arm mounting bolts. Install bolts, lockwashers and nuts, and tighten to 65 foot-pounds torque. Tighten strut nut to 30 foot-pounds torque and install cotter pin. Check caster and camber.
9. LOWER CONTROL ARM PIVOT SHAFT
BUSHING—REPLACEMENT (FIGS. 15 and 16)
Remove lower control arm assembly. Refer to
"Lower Control Arm—Removal", Paragraph
7. Remove torsion bar spring cushion (small disc) from end of shaft assembly.
a. Disassembly
Support lower control arm assembly in an arbor press; and using a brass drift, press shaft and bushing assembly from control arm. Remove cotter pin, nut, and washer; and slide bushing assembly from shaft.
SHAFT AND
BUSHING
LOWER
CONTROL
ARM
Fig. 17—Front Suspension Height and Level Gauge Installed b. Assembly
Position new bushing (flanged end of bushing first) on shaft and install washer and nut.
Tighten nut 100 to 150 foot-pounds torque and install cotter pin.
With lower control arm supported, install shaft and bushing assembly by using Tool C-
3557 and pressing bushing into the lower control arm until flanged portion of bushing is seated all the way into control arm. Install lower control arm. Refer to "Lower Control Arm
—Installation", Paragraph 7.
10. CHECKING FRONT SUSPENSION HEIGHT
Front suspension height should be checked when front wheels are aligned or whenever any service work is performed on the torsion bars. If the suspension height is not up to specifications the height should be checked and reset. The suspension height can be checked with or without Tool C-3608. To check the height with Tool C-3608 proceed as follows:
Place vehicle on alignment equipment or on a
57x7
Fig. 16—Installing Lower Control Arm Pivot Bushing
Fig. 18-Front Suspension Height and Level Gauge Measuring Pins and Clips
MyMopar.com
10—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 19—Adjusting Torsion Bar Cam Bolt level floor. Inflate tires to recommended pressures, with only the vehicle weight on the torsion bar springs (no passenger or unusual weight in vehicle). Grasp front bumper and jounce car up and down several times to settle the suspension system. When the vehicle is settled, refer to Figures 17 and 18 and install leveling tool as follows:
For accurate gauge reading make sure the lower control arm ball joints at the steering knuckle and control arm bushing housings are clean, free from grit and dirt. Before assembling tool to control arm, retract the tool measuring pin and while under tension lock tool securely in this position. With measuring pin retracted, assemble tool to control arms, as shown in Figure 18 making sure the stops on the ends of tool are up against the control arm ball joints.
Latch the tool retaining springs securely to the flange of the control arm and release the measuring pins so that they contact the lower surface of control arm bushing housing.
A I B
57x267
Fig. 20—Measuring Front Suspension Height
NOTE: The measuring pins are spring loaded and scaled in ^ inch increments. These readings are direct measurements and indicate the difference in height between the low point of the control arm ball joints and the lower surface of the control arm housing.
These readings can be equalized or adjusted by raising or lowering of the torsion bar anchor adjusting bolt (Fig. 19) to the specified height. See Table 1 for height specification.
NOTE: These reading are direct measurements and indicate the difference in height between the low point of the control arm ball joints and the lower surface of the control arm housing.
If Tool C-3608 is not available, car height can be set in the following manner:
Compare the differences of the two measurements between "A" and point "B" (Fig. 20).
The difference between these two measurements should be % + % inch, on the Passenger Car, 2% on the Town and Country Wagon and 1% inch on the C-300D models. If the difference between the two sides of the vehicle are within % inch of each other and are with-
TABLE I
CAR HEIGHT SPECIFICATION
Standard Passenger Cars 2J4 ±
Town and Country Wagon 2% ±
x
/% inch
C-300D \%± y
8
ihcn
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL in the limits specified, they may be considered acceptable. If these values differ more than 1/3 inch or if one or both of them are outside of the specified limits, the front suspension height on both sides must be reset by tightening or loosening the adjusting bolt at the torsion bar
(Fig. 19). See Table 1 for Height Specifications.
11. FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
(CASTER AND CAMBER)
Correct front wheel alignment produces easy, positive steering with a minimum of scuffing action between tire and load. Normally, when checking front wheel alignment, car should be empty (all luggage or load should be removed).
If a constant load is carried, such as when a car is used by salesman for carrying samples, etc., car should be loaded with its normal amount of weight before checking front wheel alignment.
All factors of front wheel alignment are interrelated, but each angle has specific purpose.
Four different angles are used in positioning front wheels for proper steering under varying conditions of weight and speed.
When making adjustments or installing new suspension parts, the alignment angles in both front wheels should be checked in the following order: Caster, (Fig. 21), Camber, (Fig. 22),
Steering Axis Inclination and Toe.
— NEGATIVE CASTER
FRONT
+ POSITIVE CASTER
STEERING
KNUCKLE
Fig. 21—Caster Angle
VERTICAL
LINE
57x199
A
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—11
CAMBER ANGLE
VERTICAL LINE
AXIS ANGLE
AXIS CENTER LINE
57x198 \
Fig. 22—Camber Angle Axis Inclination
NOTE: Front suspension parts are heat treated, if they are damaged or bent, they should be replaced. Under no circumstances should these parts be heated in order to straighten.
The method of checking front wheel alignment settings on the subject models, which incorporate Torsion-Aire front suspension, remains the same as the method used on previous models. However, the procedures for adjusting camber and caster settings and front spring heights differ.
After alignment is once checked and adjusted, it should only be necessary to check the alignment once a year, under normal operating conditions. However, new cars or cars which have had the front suspension reconditioned and new suspension bushings installed, may require realigning after a short period of operation.
This is due to the relatively stiff operation of new bushings, which will take a normal set after a short period of driving.
Inspection
When checking front wheel alignment, the following inspection should be made to determine the necessity for repairs or replacement of suspension or steering parts and the necessary repairs made before proceeding further:
1. Check type of tire wear.
2. Check adjustment of front wheel bearings as follows: a. Remove any burrs or nicks on the spindle thread.
MyMopar.com
12—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
b. Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to
90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel.
c. Selectively position the nut lock over the adjusting nut so that one set of slots in the nut lock is in line with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
d. Without removing the nut lock, back off the nut until the next set of slots in the nut lock is lined up with the cotter pin hole.
e. Insert and bend the cotter pin to secure the nut lock. Check all suspension and steering linkage pivot points for excessive looseness.
3. Check rear springs for "U" bolt tightness and proper positioning on axle spring seat.
4. Check for bent frame or suspension parts by measuring wheel base (both sides) from center to center of axles with front wheels in straight ahead position.
When the above points have been checked and the necessary repairs made, check and correct front wheel alignment as follows:
Inflate all tires to recommended pressure.
(Should have tires with equal wear on front wheels). Position the car on a level floor with only the weight of the vehicle on the springs.
Grasp the front bumper at the center and jounce the front of the car up and down several times to place the front springs and shock absorbers in their normal position.
NOTE: The car must remain in this normal position while checking all alignment settings.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
54x249
Fig. 24-Checking Camber (Tool C-3409)
Check front suspension height by finding the difference in height between the floor and the two measuring points on each lower control arm. The measuring point at the inner end is from the underside of the lower control arm bushing housing (located between the flanges of the control arm) to the floor, ("A" Fig. 20).
This measuring point at the outer end is from the lowest point of the lower ball joint housing to the floor, ("B" Fig. 20). The difference in the two should be 2% ± i/
8
inch, on the
Passenger car, 2% Town and Country Wagon and 1% on the C-300D models. If the difference between the two sides of the vehicle are within Vs i n c n
of each other and are within the limits specified, they may be considered acceptable. If these values differ more than Vs inch or if one or both of them are outside of
Fig. 23-Checking Caster-Right Wheel
54x250
Fig. 25—Removing Shims to Adjust Camber or Caster
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the specified limits, the front suspension height on both sides must be reset by tightening or loosening the adjusting bolt at the torsion bar
(Fig. 19).
Compare the measurements that have been taken on both the right and left sides of the car. The two results should be within 1/g i n c n of each other.
If the spring heights are not within the specified measurements, or if the right and left measurements differ by more than i/
8
inch, correct by tightening or loosening the height adjusting bolts at the torsion bar spring rear anchors. Tightening a spring height adjusting bolt, (one located at each end of the engine rear crossmember) will increase spring height; loosening the bolt will decrease height.
NOTE: Always check front wheel alignment and aiming of headlights after adjusting spring heights.
Caster and camber angles and king-pin inclination can be checked with Gauge Tool C-
3409, Turntable Tool DD-435 and Gauge Tool
DD-428 with new leg attachment for small wheels (Figs. 21, 22, 23 and 24).
Negative Caster is the tilting of the top of the steering knuckle toward the front of car.
Positive Caster is the tilting of the top of the steering knuckle toward the rear of the car.
Camber is amount that front wheels lean outward or inward from the vertical, when viewed from front of car. With positive camber, wheels are farther apart at top than at bottom. With negative camber, this condition is reversed.
NOTE: Caster and camber are adjusted by removing or adding shims (Fig. 25) between the upper control arm support brackets and frame sub-side rails.
Adding shims at the rear bracket or removing shims at the front bracket will increase positive caster. One shim y
16
inch thick will change caster approximately %°.
Removing shims equally at both front and rear brackets will increase positive camber.
One shim y
16
inch thick at each bracket will change camber approximately %
6
°. The total
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—13
thickness of each shim pack should not exceed
%e
NOTE: Should any front suspension parts become bent, they should be replaced. Under no circumstances should these parts be heated to straighten or bend.
12. ADJUSTING CASTER AND CAMBER WITH
TORSION-AIRE SHIM CHANGE CHART
(FIG. 26)
Both caster and camber can be adjusted at the same time by the use of the attached chart on pages 14 and 15.
The shim chart is designed to operate much in the same manner as the mileage charts found on most road maps. The chart may be used for either left or right wheels, as well as for cars equipped with manual or power steering. The camber figures for the right wheel will be found across the top of the chart and the figures for the camber reading for the left will be found across the bottom of the chart.
Figures for the caster on a power steering equipped car will be found along the left side.
The figures for the manual steering car will be found along the right side.
To use the shim chart, the following procedures should be followed:
The car should be jounced so as to allow it to assume its normal setting. The car height should be checked and adjusted if it's not within the specifications. THE FRONT SUSPENSION
MUST ALWAYS BE SET AT THE PROPER
HEIGHT BEFORE ALIGNMENT CHECKS
OR WORK ARE PERFORMED.
A wheel alignment reading should be taken to determine the present caster and camber settings for each wheel. These settings should be recorded so they will not be forgotten.
Locate on the chart, the camber reading for the right wheel using the camber figures across the top of the chart. Also locate the caster reading for the right wheel using either the caster figures at the left side if the car is equipped with power steering or right side of the chart, if the car is equipped with manual steering. Follow the caster column across until it intersects with the camber vertical column indicating the shim change necessary to bring the right wheel within preferred setting range.
MyMopar.com
TORSION-AIRE SHIM CHANGE CHART
0
• MB
0
+2.50
u o
O
+225
+2.00
+1.75
+1.50
+125 j T
R T > -3.00
-2.75
+8.00
+7.75
+7.50
+725
+7.00
+6.75
+6.50
+625
+6.00
+5.75
+5.50
+525
+5.00
+4.75
+4.50
+425
+4.00
+3.75
+3.50
+325
+3.00
+2.75
+1.00
-2.50
-225
C A M B E R - R I G H T WHEEL +VA TO -
]
A DEGREES, 0°
-2.00
-1.75
-1.50
-125 -1.00
-.75
-.50
- 2 5 0' +25 +.50
+.75
+1.00
+U5
PREFERRED
+1.50
+1.75
+2.00
+2.25
+2.50
+2.75
+18-18
+17-17
-15+18 +16-16 +18-15
+14-17 +16-16 +17-14
+14-17 +15-15 +17-14
+12-18 +13-16 +15-15 +16-13 +18-12
+11-17 +13-16 +14^14 +16-13 +17-11
+ 9-18 +11-17 +12-15 +13-13 +15-12 +17-11 + 1 8 - 9
+ 9-18 +10-16 +11-14 +13-13 +14-11 +16-10 +18- 9
+ 8-17 + 9-15 +11-14 +12-12 +14-11 +15-9 +17- 8
+ 6-18 + 7-16 + 9-15 +10-13 +11-11 +13-10 + 1 5 - 9 + 1 6 - 7 + 1 8 - 6
+ 5-17 + 7-16 + 8-14 + 9-12 +11-11 +12- 9 +14- 8 +16- 7 + 1 7 - 5
+ 3-18 + 5-17 + 6-15 + 7-13 + 9-12 +10-10 + 1 2 - 9 +13- 7 + 1 5 - 6 +17- 5 +18- 3
+ 2-17 + 4-16 + 5-14 + 7-13 + 8-11 +10-10 + 1 1 - 8
+13-7 +14- 5 + 1 6 - 4 + 1 7 - 2
+ 2-17 + 3-15 + 5-14 + 6-12 + 8-11 + 9 - 9 + 1 1 - 8 +12- 6 +14- 5 +15- 3 + 1 7 - 2
0-18 + 1-16 + 3-15 + 4-13 + 6-12 + 7-10 + 9 - 9 +10- 7 +12- 6 +13- 4 +15- 3 +16- 1 +18 0
- 1-17 + 1—16 + 2-14 + 4-13 + 5-11 + 7-10 + 8 - 8 +10- 7 + 1 1 - 5 + 1 3 - 4 + 1 4 - 2 +16- 1 +17+ 1
- 3-18 - 1-17 0-15 + 1-13 + 3-12 + 4-10 + 6 - 9 + 7 - 7 + 9 - 6 +10- 4 +12- 3 +13- 1 +15 0 +17+1 +18+3
- 4 L 1 7
- 2-16 - 1-14 + 1-13 + 2-11 + 4-10 + 5 - 8 + 7 - 7 + 8 - 5 +10- 4 + 1 1 - 2 +13- 1 +14+ 1 +16+ 2 +17+4
- 6 - 1 8 - 4-17 - 3-15 - 1-14 0-12 + 2-11 + 3 - 9 + 5 - 8 + 6 - 6 + 8 - 5 + 9 - 3 + 1 1 - 2 +12 0 +14+ 1 +15+3 +17+4 +18+6
- 6-18 - 5-16 - 3-15 - 2-13 0-12 + 1-10 + 3 - 9 + 4 - 7 + 5 - 5 + 7 - 4 + 9 - 3 +10- 1 +12 0 +13+2 +15+3 +16+5 +18+6
- 7-17 - 5 - 1 6 - 4-14 - 2-13 - 1-11 0 - 9 + 2 - 8 + 3 - 6 + 5 - 5 + 6 - 3 + 8 - 2 + 9 0 +11+ 1 +13+2 +14+ 4 +16+ 5 +17+7
- 9 - 1 8 - 8 - 1 6 - 6-15 - 5-13 - 3-12 - 2 - 1 0 0 - 9 + 1 - 7 + 3 - 6 + 4 - 4 + 6 - 3 + 7 - 1 + 9 0 +10+2 +12+3 +13+ 5 +15+6 +16+8 +18+9
-10-17 - 8-16 - 7-14 - 5-13 - 4-11 - 2-10 - 1 - 8 + 1 - 7 + 2 - 5 + 4 - 4 + 5 - 2 + 7 - 1 + 8 + 1 +10+ 2 +11+4 +13+5 +14+7 +16+8
+17+10
-12-18 -10-17 - 9 - 1 5 - 7-14 - 6-12 - 4-11 - 3 - 9 - 1 - 8 0 - 6 + 2 - 5 + 3 - 3 + 5 - 2 + 6 O1+8+I + 9 + 3 +11+4 +12+6 +14+ 7 +15+9
+17+10 +18+12
-12-18 -11-16 -10-14 - 8-13 - 6-12 - 5-10 - 3 - 9 - 2 - 7!- 1 - 5 + 1 - 4 + 2 - 2 + 4 - 1 + 5 + 1
+ 7 + 2
+ 9+ 3 +10+5 +12+6 +13+8 +14+10 +16+11 +18+12
-13-17
-15-18 -14-16
-12-15 -10-14 - 9-12 - 7-11
-12-15 -11-13 - 9 - 1 2 - 8 - 1 0
- 6 - 9
- 6 - 9
- 4 - 8
- 5 - 7
- 3 - Si- 1 - 5
- 3 - 6 - 2 - 4
0 - 3 + 2 - 2 + 3 0 ( + 5 + 1
+ 6 + 3
+ 8+ 4 + 9 + 6 +11+ 7 +12+ 9 +14+10 +15+12 +17+13
0 - 3 + 1 - 1 + 3 0 + 4 + 2 + 6+ 3 + 7+ 5 + 9+ 6 +10+ 8 +12+9 +13+11 +15+12 +16+14 +18+15
-16-17 -14-16 -13-14 -11-13 -10-11 - 8-10 - 7 - 8 - 5 - 7 - 4 - 5 - 2 - 4 - 1 - 2 + 1 - 1 + 2+ 1 + 4+ 2 + 5 + 4 + 7 + 5 + 8 + 7 +10+8 +11+10 +13+11 +14+13 +16+14 +17+16
+3.00
+6.50
+625
+6.00
+5.75
+5.50
+525
+5.00
+4.75
+4.50
+425
+4.00
+3.75
+3.50
+325
+3.00
+2.75
+2.50
+225
+2.00
+1.75
2
+1.50
+125 z
+1.00
+ .75
+ .50
r-
+ 25
AS
- 25
- .50
0° in i
70
MyMopar.com
X
-2.75
-3.00
-3.25
-3.50
-3.75
-4.00
-4.25
-4.50
-4.75
-5.00
-125
-5.50
-5.75
-6.00
-6.25
6.50
T > -2.75
+ .1
- 1 9 -
+ .5C
IK
UJ
?</*
UJ
O
+ 2
0
- 2
- . 5 0
- .7
-1.00
- U
-1.50
H I
3
-1.75
-2.00
-2.25
-2.50
-2.50
- 1 9 - 1 - 1 5 -
- 1 7 - 1
- 1 9 - 1
- 1 9 - 1
- 1 6 -
- 1 7 - 1
- 1 9 - 1
- 1 9 - 1
- 1 3 - 1
- 1 4 - 1
- 1 5 - 1
- 1 5 - 1 - 1 4 - 1 - 1 2 -
- 1 9 - 1 - 1 4 - 1 - 1 3 -
- 1 7 - 1
- 1 9 -
- 1 2 - 1 - 1 0 - 1
- 1 3 - 1
- 1 3 - 1 - 1 2 -
- 1 5 -
- 1 7 - 1 - 1 9 -
- 1 1 - 1
- 1 4 -
- 1 4 -
- 9 -
- 1 0 -
- 1 0 -
- 1 1 -
- 1 2 -
- 1 2 -
- 1 3 -
- 9 -
- 9 -
- 9 -
- 6 - 6 - 4 - 4 L 3- 3 - 1 - 1 0 0 + 1+ 1+ 3+3 + 4+ 4 + 9 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 9 + 9 +10+10 +12+12 +13+13 +15+15 +19+19 +19+19 - . 7 5
- 7- 5 _ 5_ 4|- 3- 3 - 2 - 1 - 1+ 1 + 1+ 2~1+ 3+ 3 + 4+ 5 + 5+ 7 + 7 + 9 + 9+10 +10+11 +11+13 +13+14 +14+19 +19+17 -1.09
- 7- 5 - 6- 3 - 4- !
- 3 0 - 1+ 1 0+ 3k- 2+ 4 + 3+ 6 + 5+ 7 + 6 + 9 + 9+10 + 9+12 +11+13 +12+15 +14+19 +15+19 -1.25
- 9 -
- 1 0 -
- 9 - 4 - 6 - 3 - 5- 1 - 3 0 - 2 + 2
- 9 -
0+ 31+ 1+ 5 + 3 + 6 + 4+ 9 + 9 + 9 + 7+11 + 9+12 +10+14 +12+15 +13+17
- 7 - 2 - 5- 1 - 4+ 1 - 3+ 3
_ i + 4I+ 1+ 5J+2+ 7
+ 3 + 9 + 5+10 + 9+12 + 9+13 +10+14 +11+19 +12+19
- 1 1 - 9 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 0 - 5 + 2 - 3 + 3 - 2 + 5 0+ 6|+ 2+ 7 + 3 + 9 + 4+11 + 9+12 + 7+14 + 9+15 +10+17 +12+19
- 1 1 - 4 -10- 2 - 9 - 1 - 7+ 1 - 5 + 2 - 4 + 4 - 2+ 5 - 1+ 7 + 1 + 9 + 2+10 + 4+11 + 5+13 + 7+14 + 9+19 +10+17
-1J9
-1.75
-2.00
-22%
- 1 9 - 9 - 1 5 - 9 - 1 3 - 5 - 1 2 - 3 -10- 2 - 9 0 - 7 + 1 - 6 + 3 - 4 + 4 - 3 + 6 - 1+7 0+ 9 + 2+10 + 3+12 + 5+13 + 9+15 + 9+19 + 9+19 -2J9
- 1 7 - 7 - 1 9 - 5 - 1 4 - 4 - 1 3 - 2 - 1 1 - 1 - 9 0 - 9 + 2 - 6+ 3 - 5+ 5 - 3+ 6 L 2 + 9 0+9 + 1+11 + 2+13 + 4+14 + 5+19 + 7+17 -2.75
-19-6 - 1 6 - 5 - 1 5 - 3 -13-2 -12 0 -10+ 1 - 9 + 2 - 7+ 4 - 9 + 9 _ 4+ 7 p 2+ 9 - 1+10 0+12 + 2+13 + 3+15 + 5+19 + 9+19 -100
-19-9 - 1 7 - 4 - 1 5 - 3 -14- 1 -12 0 - 1 0 + 1 - 9 + 3 - 7 + 4 - 6 + 6 - 4 + 7 - 3 + 9 - 1+10 0+12 + 1+14 + 3+15 + 4+17 + 9+19
- 1 7 - 4 - 1 6 - 2 -14- 1 -13+ 1 - 1 1 + 2 - 1 0 + 4 - 9+ 5 - 7+ 7 - 5 + 9 - 4 + 1 0 - 2 + 1 1 - 1 + 1 3 + 1+14 + 2+19 + 4+17
-125
-150
I
- 1 9 - 3 - 1 7 - 1 -15 0 - 1 3 + 1 - 1 2 + 3 -10+4 - 9 + 6 - 9 + 9 - 6 + 9 - 4+10 - 3+12 - 1+13 0+15 + 1+17 + 3+19
0
0
1
IS
O s
-175
- 1 7 - 1 -16+1 -14+2 - 1 2 + 3 - 1 1 + 5 - 9 + 6 - 9 + 9 - 6 + 9 - 5+11 - 3+12 - 2 + 1 4 - 1+19 + 1+17 -400
-19 0 -16+1 -15+3 -13+4 -11+ 5 -10+ 7 - 9 + 9 - 7+10 - 5+11 - 4+13 - 3+15 - 1+19 0+19 -4J5
Q
-17+2 - 1 5 + 3 - 1 4 + 5 - 1 2 + 9 - 1 1 + 9 - 9 + 9 - 9 + 1 1 - 9 + 1 2 - 5+14 - 3+15 - 2+17 -4.50
f%
-17+2 -15+4 - 1 4 + 5 - 1 3 + 7 - 1 1 + 9 -10+10 - 9 + 1 1 - 7+13 - 5+14 - 4 + 1 9 - 2+17 -4.75
-19+3 -17+5 - 1 5 + 9 - 1 3 + 7 - 1 2 + 9 -11+11 - 9 + 1 2 - 7+13 - 6 + 1 5 - 5 + 1 7 - 3+19 -100 9
-17+5 - 1 5 + 9 - 1 4 + 9 - 1 2 + 9 -11+11 - 9+12 - 9+14 - 6+15 - 5+17 -125
-19+6 - 1 9 + 7 -15+ 9 -13+10 -12+12 -10+13 - 9 + 1 5 - 7+16 - 9+19 -159
-175
§-
- 1 7 + 9 - 1 5 + 9 -14+11 -12+12 -11+14 - 9 + 1 5 - 9 + 1 7
- 1 9 + 9 -19+10 -14+11 -13+13 -11+14 -10+19 - 9 + 1 9 -100
-19+ 9 -17+11 -15+12 -14+14 -12+15 -11+17 - 9 + 1 9 -125
S
-17+11 -19+13 -14+14 -13+19 -11+17 -159
-19+12 -19+13 -15+15 -13+19 -12+19 -175
-7.00
-17+14 -15+15 -14+17
-2.25
-2.00
-17+14 -19+19 -14+17
-19+15 -17+17 -15+19
-17+17
-1.75
-1.50
-1.25
-1.00
-.75
-.50
-.25
0*
-19+19
+.25
+.50
CAMBER-LEFT WHEEL +Vi TO
+.75
+1.00
+1.25
+1.50
+1.75
+2.00
+2.25
0 DEGREES, % PREFERRED
+2.50
+2.75
+3.00
+3.25
-7.21
-7J9
-7.75
-100
Fig. 26—Torsion-Aire Shim Change Chart
MyMopar.com
16—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
Camber
Caster
(Positive)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SHIM TABLE II
Direction
Increase
Decrease
Increase
Decrease
Front Bracket
Remove Shims
Add Shims
Remove Shims
Add Shims or
Rear Bracket
Remove Shims
Add Shims or Add Shims
Remove Shims
The first figure in the square indicates the shim change necessary at the front bracket.
The second figure indicates the shim change necessary at the rear bracket. A plus mark ( + ) indicates the addition of shims, a minus mark
( —) indicates, the removal of shims.
NOTE: The chart is based on a 1/32 inch shim to enable more accurate settings to the preferred specifications. It is advisable to use 1/16 inch shims where possible to reduce the number of shims that have to be handled. The shim pack should NOT exceed 9/16 inch. (Eighteen 1/32 inch shims or nine 1/16 inch shims.)
The same procedure should be repeated using the appropriate figures for the left wheel. After the shims have been changed as indicated by the chart, the alignment should be rechecked with the gauges, to complete the operation.
13. ADJUSTING FRONT WHEEL TOE-IN
Toe-In means that wheels are closer together at front than they are at rear. To measure, spin front wheels and scribe a thin line in center of tread of each tire (Fig. 27). Jounce front end up and down several times and position wheels in straight-ahead position. Gauge and scriber t FRONT •
HUB
Tool C-695 can be used for scribing tire treads and measuring toe.
Measure distance at hub height between points A and B, Fig. 27. The distance between point B should be Vs inch l e s s
than distance between point A. To adjust toe, lengthen or shorten the tie rods an equal amount until the wheels toe-in Vs inch, plus or minus y
32
inch
(VB inch preferred) and recheck measurements at points A and B. Make sure the rods are centered and U-clamps are down before the tie rod clamp bolts are tightened.
NOTE: The steering wheel hub, steering gear arm, steering tube and steering gear roller shaft are machined with master serrations to place front wheels straight-ahead when steering
MARK TIRES HERE
Fig. 27-Front Wheel Toe-in Fig. 28—Steering Geometry on Turns
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
POINTER ON
RATCH MARK
TURNTABLE
LOCK PIN
\54x247
Fig. 29-Gauge C-3409 and Turntable DD 435 on Right Wheel wheel is in center position. Do not alter these serrations to change position of these parts.
Improper position of steering wheel must be corrected by adjusting tie rod lengths.
Toe-out turns.
When car makes a turn, front wheels travel in circles which have a common center (Fig.
28). The arc of circle traveled by the inside front wheel is smaller than arc of circle traveled by outside front wheel. Consequently, when turned to right or left, the wheels will be farther apart at front than at rear. The amount that front wheels toe-out depends upon how far they are turned.
With front wheels on turntables, set right wheel to 20 degrees. The turntable under left wheel should indicate 21% degrees, plus or minus 1 degree. If reading is not within these limits, the steering knuckle arm or steering gear arm may be bent. Before above check is made, make sure that camber, caster, steering axis inclination and toe-in are within limits.
14. CHECKING STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
Steering axis inclination is amount in degrees that axis of the ball joints lean away from vertical toward center of car (Fig. 21). If camber can be adjusted within the recommended limits, it is unnecessary to check steering axis inclination.
To check axis inclination refer to Figs. 21 and 22 and proceed as follows:
Inflate tires to recommended pressure, place
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—17
front wheels in straight-ahead position on turntables and set foot brakes. Grasp front bumper at center and move front end of car up and down several times to permit front suspension parts to settle in "normal" unloaded position.
Assemble gauge to right wheel (Fig. 29) and pull out turntable lock pins. Turn front wheels to left until right wheel has turned more than
20 degrees then return to 20 degrees. Adjust secondary screw (Fig. 30), which controls the short pointer until bubble is centered in spirit level. Do not disturb gauge setting or release brakes.
Turn front wheels to right until right wheel is turned to an angle of more than 20 degrees mark. Allow wheel to back off to exactly 20 degrees. Adjust primary screw (Fig. 30) until bubble centers in spirit level. The reading on
40-degree scale of gauge will be steering axis inclination for right wheel.
To check angle of left front wheel, place gauge on left wheel, turn front wheels to right and repeat procedure outlined above.
NOTE: If the steering axis inclination does not conform with limits listed in Specifications, check for bent frame, steering knuckle or control arms or damaged ball joints.
15. SERVICING THE STEERING KNUCKLES
(FIG. 31) a. Removal
Remove wheel, tire and drum. Cover brakes
54x248
Fig. 30-Checking Steering Axis Inclination
(Gauge C-3409)
MyMopar.com
18—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
with clean cloth to protect lining from being covered with grease. Remove the cotter pins, nuts and lockwashers attaching the steering arm and brake dust shield to steering knuckle. Remove steering arm, and brake assembly from steering knuckle but leaving the brake hose attached. Do not allow assembly to hang by the brake hose. Remove ball joint studs from steering knuckles as described in "Servicing the Upper and Lower Ball Joints," Paragraph 16, using Tool C-3564. Lift steering knuckle out and away from vehicle.
b. Installation
To install steering knuckle, refer to Fig. 31, and slide upper and lower ball joint studs into steering knuckle and install lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the ball joint stud nut to 135 footpounds torque. Install cotter pins.
Slide brake assembly over knuckle and into position. Install lockwashers and nuts on upper rear and lower front bolts. Install upper front and lower rear bolts through dust shield and steering knuckle, then slide steering arm over bolts. Install lockwashers and nuts. Tighten nuts evenly to 55 foot-pounds torque. Install cotter pins. Remove covering from brake shoes, replace wheel, tire and drum assembly. Adjust front wheel bearings as per "Front Wheel Bearing End Play Adjustment", Paragraph 18. Refer to "Front Wheel Alignment (Caster and
Camber)", Paragraph 11.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BALL JOINT
STEERING KNUCKL
Fig. 32—Removing Upper Ball Joint—
(Removal Tool C-3564)
16. SERVICING THE BALL JOINTS—(UPPER
AND LOWER) (FIGS. 32 and 33) a. Removal of Upper Ball Joint
CAUTION
Upper and lower ball joints are not interchangeable. The upper ball joint is a preloaded joint and can not be used in the lower control arm.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. With support under the lower control arm, remove upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Install Tool C-3561
(Fig. 32). Apply load to studs and rap knuckles at ball joint boss sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. To avoid damaging stud do not attempt to hammer stud out of knuckle.
Remove tool, and disengage ball joint from
UPPER CONTROL ARM
STEERING KNUCKLE
57x368
Fig. 31—Removing or Installing Steering Knuckle
BALL JOINT
57x73
Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Upper Control Arm
Ball Joints
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and grease seal. Remove lubrication fitting from top of ball joint, using Tool C-3561, as shown in Figure 33, unscrew ball joint from upper control arm.
b. Installation of Upper Ball Joint
NOTE: When installing new ball joint, it is very important that the ball joint threads engage those of the control arm squarely.
With the lubrication fitting removed, screw ball joint into control arm as far as possible byhand. Using Tool C-3561, tighten until ball joint housing is seated on control arm. Slide seal and dust cover up into position, oyer stud and position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer and nut. Tighten 135 foot-pounds torque. Install cotter pin and lubrication fitting.
Lubricate ball joint with a good grade of chassis lubricant, as specified in Lubrication, Paragraph 1.
c. Removal of Lower Ball Joint
Raise wheel off floor supporting weight under the lower control arm, allowing enough clearance to remove lower ball joint, and remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove upper and lower ball joint stud nuts, install Tool C-3564
(Fig. 34) as described in "Upper Ball Joint
Removal" Paragraph 16 procedure. Rap knuckle at stud boss sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. To avoid damaging stud do not attempt to hammer stud out of knuckle. Remove grease fitting using Tool C-3561, screw out ball joint.
NOTE: When installing new ball joint, it is very important that the ball joint threads engage those of the control arm squarely.
d. Installation of Lower Ball Joint
To reinstall, screw ball joint into control arm as far as possible by hand. Using Tool C-3561, tighten until ball joint housing is seated on control arm. Slide seal and dust cover down into position, over stud then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer and nut. Tighten 135 foot-pounds torque. Install cotter pin; lubricate fitting and lubricate ball joint, using a good grade of chassis lubricant and reinstall wheel and tire assembly.
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—19
Fig. 34—Removing Lower Ball Joint
57x106
17. SERVICING THE TORSION BARS
The torsion bars are not interchangeable, side for side. The left hand bar cannot be used on the right side and vice versa. The bars will be marked left or right by (L) or (R) stamped on the end of the rod, as shown in Figure 12.
The bars should always be installed with letters toward the rear of car.
a. Removal of Torsion Bar, Anchor Swivel and Bolt
To replace torsion bar anchor, refer to Fig. 2 and proceed as follows: Raise vehicle off floor by jacking under frame crossmember. Release load from torsion bar by unscrewing the anchor adjusting bolt partly out of swivel.
CAUTION
To prevent swivel from falling into frame bracket, do not loosen the swivel bolt all the way out until torsion bar is removed.
Remove the lock ring from rear of anchor
(Fig. 12). Slide torsion bar rearward enough to disengage forward end of bar from lower control arm, then forward to disengage torsion bar from anchor. Remove bar, bolt, swivel and cam from frame bracket anchor.
b. Installation
With car raised off the floor, assemble anchor, swivel, bolt-seat (oval side up) and bolt in frame anchor bracket. Check for torsion bar cushion in lower control arm housing, with
MyMopar.com
20—FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION
cam bolt barely entered in cam swivel, slide torsion bar into rear cam. Rotate anchor and torsion bar assembly until anchor is positioned as close as possible to floor pan. Engage front of torsion bar in lower control arm shaft assembly as far as bar will go.
CAUTION
Unless anchor blade is in the position just described when installing torsion bar, it will be impossible to adjust front suspension to the proper suspension height.
Center and install lock ring in rear of anchor housing. Pressure may have to be applied to torsion bar to enable lock ring to be installed in housing. After installation of lock ring, tighten cam bolt until approximately 1 inch of threads are showing above the anchor bolt swivel.
NOTE: This is an approximate setting and is to be used merely as a starting point when adjusting suspension height. This setting is also necessary to place load on the torsion bar spring before lowering vehicle to the floor.
Check and adjust suspension height. Refer to "Checking Front Suspension Height", Paragraph 10.
CAUTION
Caster and camber and front suspension height should always be checked whenever the torsion bars are replaced.
18. ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT WHEEL
BEARINGS (FIGS. 35, 36 and 29)
Remove hub cap and grease cap, then jack up front of car. Remove cotter pin that retains nut lock. Remove nut lock. Using an inch-pound torque wrench, tighten adjusting nut to 90 inchpounds, while rotating wheel. Remove torque wrench.
Selectively position the nut lock over adjusting nut so that the spindle cotter pin hole is in approximate alignment with one set of slots in nut lock, as shown in Figures 35 and 36, then back off (to next slot) adjustment (without removing nut lock) until the slots are aligned with cotter pin hole). Install cotter pin, grease cap and hub cap. Remove jack.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
GREASE CAP THRUST WASHER STEERING KNUCKLE
BEARING CUP HUB SEAL
NUT LOCK
COTTERPIN
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
BEARING CONE
57x309
Fig. 35—Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
Removing and Installing Front Wheel
Bearing Races
Should it become necessary to remove the front wheel bearing races, remove drum then drive race out of drum as follows:
Remove inner oil seal and bearing. Invert drum, then using a suitable drift, drive the outer bearing race from the drum. (Driving slots are machined in drum for this operation.)
Again invert the drum and drive out the inr ner bearing race. Clean the drum and bearings, using a suitable solvent then blow dry with compressed air. (Do not spin bearings with air pressure.) Check bearings for pits or brinelling. Install new bearings as required.
[STEERING KNUCKLEl
Fig. 36-lnstalling Nut Lock x325
i
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
When installing new bearing races, be sure and start race evenly in drum. Drive down into position alternately, using (if possible) the old race. Be sure race is seated evenly.
Pack inner bearing with short fibre grease,
FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION—21
then install in drum. Install new grease seal.
Slide drum over spindle. Pack outer bearing with grease and slide over spindle and into drum. Install thrustwasher and nut, then adjust bearing as described above.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
19. FRONT END NOISY—POSSIBLE CAUSES
AND CORRECTIONS
Lack of lubrication in ball joints or tie rod ends.
Worn upper or lower control arm pivot bushings (rubber) or loose mounting brackets—
Tighten brackets or replace bushings.
Loose or worn strut mounting bushings (rubber)—Tighten mounting nut to proper torque or replace bushing.
Worn ball joints or tie rod ends—Replace as necessary.
Front shock absorber noisy—Tighten mounting nuts or replace bushing or shock absorber as required.
Sway eliminator noisy—Check attaching bolts for tightness and rubber bushings for wear. If rubber bushings are worn, replace sway eliminator assembly.
Worn or loose front wheel bearings—Adjust or replace as required.
20. BODY HAS TENDENCY TO PITCH
AND ROLL
Low or uneven tire pressures—Inflate tires to proper pressure.
Shock absorber inoperativ< quired.
-Replace as re-
Loose sway eliminator—Tighten mounting bolts to proper torque.
Improper front suspension height—Adjust torsion bar springs as required.
21. TIRE WEAR
The same items which caused excessive tire wear in the previous suspension will also apply to the 1958 series suspension.
22. STEERING
The following is a list of steering problems which may be checked after it has definitely been established that difficulty is caused by the front suspension system.
23. WHEEL BOUNCE
Unequal tire pressure—Inflate tires to recommended pressure.
Unbalanced wheels, tires or brake drums—A wheel and tire assembly that is out of static balance can cause an up and down action which will affect steering ability and control.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section II
REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE—1
CONTENTS
Page
Removal of Differential Carrier Assembly 5
Removing Drive Gear and Case Assembly 6
Drive Pinion and Bearing Disassembly 8
Pinion Bearing Pre-Load and Pinion Setting 11
Gear Adjustment for Correct Tooth Contact 16
Differential Carrier Installation 17
Axle Shaft End Play Adjustment 17
Axle Drive Shaft Bearing 18
Rear Axle Housing Alignment 18
Sure-Grip Differential 19
Service Diagnosis 24
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Type
Gear Type
Ring Gear Diameter
Pinion Bearing
Type
Adjustment
Differential Bearings
Type
Adjustment
Rear Axle LC-1, LC-2
Semi-Floating
Hypoid
8.75"
Tapered Roller
Shim Pack
Tapered Roller
Threaded Adjuster
LC-3, LY-1
Semi-Floating
Hypoid
8.75"
Tapered Roller
Shim Pack
Tapered Roller
Threaded Adjuster
MyMopar.com
2—REAR AXLE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REAR AXLE
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
Rear Axle
Drive Gear Pinion
Drive Gear Run-Out
Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash
Differential Side Gear Clearance
Axle Ratio
Torque Flite
No. Drive Gear Teeth
No. Drive Pinion Teeth
Type Recommended
Summer
Winter
Extreme Cold
Capacity
Wheel Bearings
Type
Adjustment
Axle End Play
Road Clearance (Full Load)
T & C Wagon
Sedan
Tread (Rear)
T & C Wagon
Sedan
LC-1, LC-2
Matched Sets
.005" Maximum
.006" to .008"
.0 to .008"
LC-3, LY-1
Matched Sets
.005" Maximum
.006" to .008"
Standard
2.93
41
14
Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant
90
90
80
Pints
Tapered Roller
Select Shims
.013" to .018"
7.6"
60.35"
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE—3
SPECIAL TOOLS
Tool Number Tool Name
C-637 Puller-Rear Axle Shaft and Inner Oil Seal
C-293 Puller Sets-Roller Bearing
C-406A Wrench — Differential Bearing Adjusting
C-413 Driver-Axle Shaft Outer Bearing Cup
C-3339 or C-430 Dial - Indicator Set
C-452.. Puller—Companion Flange or Yoke
C-499 Puller-Axle Shaft
C-549 Puller-Utility
C-745 Sleeve-Axle Shaft Oil Seal Outer
C-757 Sleeve-Axle Shaft Oil Seal Outer
C-758-D3 Gauge—Pinion Bearing Pre-Load and Cone Angle Setting
C-3281 Wrench — Companion Flange on Yoke Holding
C-839 Driver-Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal
C-845 or C-319 Puller-Universal Wheel and Hub
C-3565 Driver-Axle Shaft Outer Seal
C-3566 Driver-Axle Shaft Outer Seal-End Brake Support
DD-996 or DD-955 Installing Sleeve - Pinion Bearing
DD-914-8 Ring-Medium Reducer (use with DD-914-89)
DD-921 Wrench-Differential Case Cap Remover and Installer
DD-993 Puller-Pinion Oil Seal
DD-999 Installing Tool—Companion Flange or Yoke
DD-1005 Driver-Differential Case Side and Cross Shaft Roller Bearing
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Foot-Pounds
Axle Shaft Nuts 145 (minimum)
Brake Support Plate to Housing Mounting Bolt Nuts. 35
Differential Carrier to Axle Housing Bolt Nuts 45
Rear Axle Drive Gear Bolt Nuts '. - 45
Differential Bearing Cap Bolt Nuts \ 110
Pinion Shaft Companion Flange Nut 240 (minimum)
MyMopar.com
4—REAR AXLE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section II
REAR AXLE
1. DRIVE GEAR ASSEMBLIES
The rear axles (Figs. 1 and 2) are semi-floating type with two pinion differentials and hypoid drive gear and pinion. The drive gear and pinion on all models are serviced only in matched sets to insure smooth quiet operation.
Cleaning and inspection of parts after disassembly is very important. Metal chips not cleaned from housing and carrier after a failure may cause excessive part wear and future failures.
Bearing cones and cups should be carefully
THRUST
WASHER
BEARING
CONF
SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
PIN
BEARING CONE
CUP
SPACER
BEARING CONE
CUP
SHIMS
DRIVE GEAR AND
PINION j / // / SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER
/ PINION j SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER
ADJUSTING WASHER
BEARING CONE
THRUST BLOCK
THRUST WASHER
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
Fig. 1-Rear Axle (Exploded View) LC-1, LC-2
57x2
THRUST WASHER
BEARING
CONE
SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
PIN
BEARING CONE
CUP
DRIVE GEAR
AND PINION
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
LOCK
ADJUSTER
BEARING CONE
SHIMS \
CARRIER
NUT
CUP
SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER \
x
THRUST BLOCK
P I N I O N
THRUST WASHER
SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER
BEARING CONE
ADJUSTING WASHER
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
Fig. 2-Rear Axle (Exploded View) LC-3, LY-1
WASHER
GUARD
5 7 x 1
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL checked for discoloration due to overheating, and for surface wear. Axle housing should also be checked for broken welds or bent sections.
Rear spring seats should be inspected to make sure they are not broken or loose. Axle shafts should be inspected and replaced if there is evidence of damage. The axle shaft should
REAR AXLE—5
be free of nicks and burrs before assembly.
NOTE: Gaskets and other seals should be replaced whenever they are removed as an insurance against leakage. Bearings, thrust washers and differential pinion shaft should be thoroughly lubricated before final assembly.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
2. REMOVAL OF DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER
ASSEMBLY (All models)
Raise car off floor and block the brake pedal so pedal cannot be depressed. Drain lubricant from housing. Back off brake shoes, with Tool
C-845. Remove rear wheels, hub and drum assemblies, as shown in Figure 3. Disconnect the brake line at wheel cylinders. Remove rear axle drive shaft keys, install special sleeve Tool C-
757 in axle outer oil seal (Fig. 4) and remove the brake backing plate. Remove the shims from each end of axle housing. Each set should be kept separate so that at reassembly, the
PULLER TOOL
56x233A
Fig. 3—Removing Hub and Drum Assemblies
SEAL PROTECTING SLEEVE (TOOL)
OIL SEAL
REAR AXLE SHAFT
46x140
Fig 5—Removing Axle Shaft and Bearing
56x177 A
Fig. 4-Removing or Installing Protective Sleeve Fig. 6—Removing Bearing from Axle Shaft
MyMopar.com
6—REAR AXLE
central location of the axle, shafts, and thrust block will be maintained. Remove axle shafts and bearings from housing, using puller Tool
C-499. (Fig. 5). If necessary, remove bearings from the axle shafts, using bearing puller
Tool C-293 with adapter plate No. 13, as shown in Figure 6.
Remove the rear axle shaft inner oil seals, using puller Tool C-637 (Fig. 7) to remove the inner seal and Tool C-839 for the outer, as shown in Figure 8. Disconnect the rear universal joint and drop the prop shaft. Remove bolts attaching the carrier assembly to axle housing, and remove carrier assembly. Clean carrier assembly in suitable solvent.
3. REMOVING DRIVE GEAR AND CASE
ASSEMBLY
Check gear tooth pattern on drive gear, drive gear to pinion backlash before disassembly
(Fig. 9). With carrier assembly mounted in
REAR AXLE SHAFT
INNER OIL SEAL
49x713
Fig. 7-Removing Inner Oil Seal Using Tool C-637
DRIVER (TOOL)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
57x21
Fig. 9—Checking Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash stand, mark both differential bearing caps and adjusters, if unit is to be checked for a specific noise condition, as shown in Figure 10, before removing caps, adjusters and drive gear assembly from carrier.
NOTE: The caps must NOT be interchanged as they are line bored with the carrier at manufacture.
4. DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION OF
DIFFERENTIAL DRIVE GEAR AND CASE
ASSEMBLY
Place differential case and drive gear assembly in a suitable fixture and remove the drive gear to case attaching cap screws and remove drive gear. Drive gear to case bolts are left-hand
PUNCH MARKS
BRAKE SUPPORT
56x178
Fig. 8-Removing Outer Axle Shaft Oil Seal with Tool C-839 Fig. 10—Marking Caps and Adjusters
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL REAR AXLE—7
57x9
Fig. 13—Removing Differential Pinion Shaft Loci. Pins
57x7
Fig. 11-Checking Drive Gear Mounting Flange threads, turn clockwise to loosen. Tap drive gear off case, using a fibre hammer. To check differential case runout after removal of drive gear, mount differential case and bearings without drive gear in carrier and adjust. Remove excessive play from the bearings with adjusters. Mount a dial indicator on carrier mounting face and check the drive gear mounting flange runout, as shown in Figure 11. Runout should not exceed .003 inch.
After checking the runout of the assembly, remove the differential case assembly from carrier. Use Tool C-293 in combination with 3
Number 18 adapter plates behind bearings to pull off the differential bearings from case, as shown in Figure 12. If axle is equipped with a Sure Grip differential, refer to Paragraph 23 for service procedure.
Remove differential pinion shaft lock pin by driving pin from case with a hammer and punch, as shown in Figure 13. Drive the differential pinion shaft out of differential case, using a brass drift and hammer. Rotate one differential gear until each pinion appears at the large opening of case. Remove each pinion and thrust washer one at a time, as shown in
Figure 14. Lift out rear axle drive shaft thrust block.
PINIONS
57x8
Fig. 12-Removing Differential Case Bearings
PINION SHAFT
57x10
Fig. 14—Removing or Installing Pinion Gear
MyMopar.com
8—REAR AXLE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
57x4
Fig. 15—Removing Companion Flange Nut
5. DISASSEMBLY OF DRIVE PINION
AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
Remove the companion flange retaining nut and
Belleville washer (Fig. 15) and with puller
Tool C-452, and flange holding Tool C-784, remove the companion flange, as shown in Figure
16. Insert pinion oil seal puller Tool C-748 into seal and remove seal from carrier, as shown in Figure 17. Remove pinion bearing washer, bearing cone, and pre-load shims, or spacer (if so equipped). Remove pinion from carrier. If necessary, remove the rear bearing from pinion stem, with puller Tool C-293, and four adapter plates, as shown in Figure 18. Slide the pinion adjusting washer off stem. If necessary, remove both bearing cups from carrier housing, using a suitable drift. Place drift alternately in the two machined slots, in order to drive cups out evenly. Clean carrier, pinion and related parts in suitable solvent, inspect and replace parts as necessary.
6. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent
57x6
Fig. 17— Removing Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal and blow dry with compressed air. Remove any chips or foreign material from carrier. Inspect all machined surfaces for nicks, burrs or scratches including inner and outer thrust shoulders of differential case. The thrust shoulder on adjusters must be free from burrs so that bearing cups will seat properly. Check differential case for cracks, fractures, distortion or damage. Install a new case if necessary.
The bearings should be immersed in clean solvent and rotated by hand until clean. After cleaning, blow dry with compressed air. Do not spin the bearings with air pressure when blowing them dry, as they are likely to score due to absence of any lubrication. Check bearings for roughness, or brinelling. The bearings must run free and show no indication of roughness or wear. Examine bearing cups for pitting, scoring or wear. Inspect all gears for chipped or worn gear teeth. Check the fit of differential gears on axle shaft splines and pinions on pinion shaft. Check thrust washers for wear, and replace if necessary. Inspect axle shafts splines for wear, cracks or distortion. Replace necessary parts.
NO. 36 PLATES
57x5
Fig. 16— Removing Companion Flange
5 2 x 3 7 4
Fig. 18—Removing Pinion Bearing from Shaft
(Puller C-293-F2)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
7. ASSEMBLING THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE
AND PINION GEARS
If new differential gears are to be installed, coat parts with Multi Purpose Gear Lubricant.
Install a new thrust washer over hub of each gear and install in position in differential case.
Insert each of two pinions through the large side opening of case (Fig. 18) so that pinion shaft holes of two pinions and their thrust washers are properly aligned. Rotate gears 90 degrees so that pinion shaft holes of case are in exact alignment with holes in the two thrust washers and pinions. From the pinion shaft lock pin hole side of case, insert the slotted portion of pinion shaft through case; the conical thrust washer just through one pinion gear.
Install the thrust block between two pinion gears.
IMPORTANT
The thrust block must be installed so that hole in block is aligned with pinion shaft and with the ground sides facing the two differential gears.
While keeping all of these parts in proper alignment, push the pinion shaft on through until locking pin hole in pinion shaft is in exact alignment with its respective hole in case.
NOTE: Before installing pinion shaft lock pin, rotate the differential gears. They must turn freely throughout the 360 degree revolution.
The clearance between each gear and case ranges from .001 to .012 inch. This clearance has been established to ascertain free rotation.
REAR AXLE—9
57x19
Fig. 20—Checking Drive Gear Runout
Install pinion shaft lock pin through hole in case from the pinion shaft side of the drive gear flange. Position each differential bearing cone on hub of case (Fig. 19) (taper away from drive gear) and with installing Tool DD-
1005, install bearing cones. Make certain that contacting surfaces of drive gear and flange are clean and free from burrs. Position drive gear on case aligning the threaded holes of drive gear with those in the case flange. Insert drive gear cap screws through case flange and into drive gear. After it has been ascertained that all cap screws are properly started into their respective threads, tap gear onto case with a fiber mallet until it seats properly on case flange. Position drive gear between brass jaws of vise and alternately tighten each cap screw to 55 foot-pounds torque.
Place differential bearing cups over bearings, and install complete assembly in carrier. Seat the adjusting nuts in the cap pedestals of car-
GAUGE BLOCK WRENCH
SP-528
SCREW
CROSS BORE
TUBE SP-561
SLEEVE
SP-1370
TOOL
BEARING
57x11
Fig. 19— Installing Differential Bearings
COMPRESSION
SLEEVE SP-535
CENTRAUZ
SPACER SP-2921 WASHER SP-
PINION LOCATING SPACER SP-2919 57x438
Fig. 21-Special Tool Set C-758-D-3
MyMopar.com
10—REAR AXLE
rier, and install caps and bolts. Be sure caps are on the same side from which they were removed. Adjust and remove excessive play from bearings. Check drive gear for runout, as shown in Figure 20.
NOTE: If there is more than .003 inch runout the differential case should be replaced.
8. INSTALLATION OF DRIVE PINION SHAFT,
BEARING CONES AND CUPS
Place bearing cups in position in carrier, refer to Tool-set C-758-D-3 (Fig. 21) and proceed as follows: With bearing cups squarely in position in carrier, assemble Tool C-758-D-3 by placing pinion rear bearing over main screw of tool (Fig. 22) and insert tool into carrier from gear side. Place the pinion front bearing over main screw, followed by adaptor SP-535, washer SP-534 and nut SP-533 (Fig. 23).
Press bearing cups into place by tightening tool nut, as shown in Figure 24. Allow tool to rotate slightly in order not to damage bearings or cups during this operation.
CAUTION
Do not install pinion oil seal during preload and pinion setting operations; otherwise, there will be added drag on pinion giving a false bearing preload on torque wrench.
Pinion Bearing Pre-load Adjustment
The importance of correct pinion bearing preload cannot be over-emphasized. The selection of adjusting washers to give the desired preload should be carefully made. When pinion
DRIVE PINION REAR BEARING CONE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
COMPRESSION SLEEVE
(TOOL)
CENTRALIZING
WASHER
*. (TOOL)
57x12
Fig. 23—Compression Sleeve and Centralizing Washer
Positioned in Carrier bearings are installed without pre-loading, the cones are not drawn far enough into their cups to bring the rollers in full contact with thrust ribs on cones. Bearings installed in this manner would allow pinion to "walk" backward and forward under operating loads. This causes a variation in tooth contact pattern, resulting in excessive wear and scoring of gears, and usually is accompanied by noise. On the other hand, where the pinion bearing cones are drawn too far into their cups, the bearings are overloaded even before they have to withstand operating loads imposed upon them by gears.
They are apt to "burn up" under a driving load—the rollers might score the cups, causing bearings to gall or flake, resulting in premature axle failure.
Correct cone distance is obtained by use of a spacer and washer combination. Do not install pinion oil seal during pre-load and pinion setting operations, otherwise, there will be an added drag on pinion shaft which would give a false bearing pre-load on the torque wrench.
SP-1730 SLEEVE
52x379A
Fig. 22—Bearing Installed on Main Body of Tool C-758-D-3 Fig. 24—Seating Bearing Cups and Checking Torque
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REAR AXLE—11
9. PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD AND PINION
SETTING (Without using special Tool
C-758-D-3)
Correct drive gear and pinion adjustment consists of following: Pinion Bearing Pre-load,
Pinion Setting, Differential Bearing Pre-load, and Backlash between Drive Gear and Pinion.
The final inspection of these adjustments is performed by checking the tooth contact patterns, as described in Paragraph 13.
/
Pre-loading the pinion and differential bearing is important because it holds the drive pinion and differential in place and prevents back and forth movement which would create incorrect gear and pinion tooth contact.
NOTE: If the differential assembly was satisfactory from the standpoint of noise before being disassembled, the drive pinion may be assembled with the original adjusting washers
A
/
II
PINION LOCATING WASHER OR SHIM
ASSEMBLY OF SP-526
\ \ .CARRIER
ASSEMBLY
SP-528
\
J SP-2919 ! \
-^ v
^ SP-173O
Used on Windsor
PINION LOCATING WASHER
57x152
N O WASHER OR SPACER x
~ \ ASSEMBLY
\ I)
OF SP-526
r " _ _ j r r — - ——
FIRST SET UP: TIGHTEN GAUGE TO H ~ ~ PINION BEARING PRELOAD
40-50 FOOT POUNDS A N D DETERMINE SPACER
PINION LOCATING WASHER ONLY
CARRIER
PRE-DETERMINED PINION LOCATING ^
x
ASSEMBLY
WASHER
SP-1730
SECOND SET UP:
USE PRE-DETERMINED
PINION WASHER A N D
PINION SPACER TO
DETERMINE PINION
BEARING PRELOAD SPACER
57x151
Fig. 25-Used on New Yorker-Imperial
Tool C-758-D-3 Installed in Housing
MyMopar.com
12—REAR AXLE
and shims. If replacement parts are installed, or differential adjustment is necessary, the proper thickness washer must be installed between the pinion and rear bearing. The drive gear and pinion are manufactured and lapped in pairs.
The position in which the best tooth contact is obtained is etched on end of pinion shaft.
To obtain proper pinion setting in relation to drive gear, the correct thickness thrust washer must be selected before drive pinion is installed in carrier. Pinion bearing adjusting washers are available from .084 inch to .100
inch in .002 inch steps. To select proper thickness thrust washer, proceed as follows: It will be noted that face of the drive pinion is etched with plus ( + ) , or minus (—) sign, followed by a number ranging from 1 to 4, or zero, (0) marking.
If old and new pinion have the same marking and if old bearing is being used, use a thrust washer of same thickness. But if old pinion is marked zero (0) and new pinion is marked +
2, try a .002 thinner washer. If new pinion is marked — 2, try a .002 inch thicker washer.
If bearing cups are to be replaced, place the bearing cups in position in carrier and drive cups in place with suitable drift. After properly positioning bearing cups in carrier, assemble drive pinion thrust washer (chamfered side down toward gear) on drive pinion stem.
Install rear bearing, spacer (if so equipped) and shims on pinion stem. Insert shaft into carrier. Install front pinion bearing and universal joint flange washer and nut. Do not install oil seal. Tighten rear axle drive pinion flange nut to 240 foot-pounds torque. Rotate drive pinion shaft after tightening flange nut
Fig. 26—Tightening Compression Nut
57x13
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL with wrench to properly seat the bearing rollers in bearing cups. Pre-load torque required to rotate pinion shaft with bearings oiled should be 25 to 35 inch-pounds torque. Add shims to decrease torque or remove shims to increase torque. After correct pinion setting and bearing preload has been obtained, remove drive pinion flange, install oil seal and tighten drive pinion flange washer and nut to proper torque. Install drive gear with grease marking compound and adjust for correct tooth contact and backlash.
10. PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD AND PINION
SETTING WITH TOOL C-758-D-3 LC-1,
LC-2, and Town and Country Wagon)
Lubricate pinion bearing cones. Install locating washer SP-2919 on tool mainshaft. Position rear pinion bearing cone on main screw of Tool
C-758-D-3 followed by pinion bearing spacer.
NOTE: Spacer has a larger bore at one end, install large bore end of spacer next to rear bearing.
Install sleeve Tool SP-1730 on tool main screw with sleeve bottoming against the tool main screw shoulder. Install original shims removed from drive pinion over the tool main screw and sleeve and against spacer. Position the carrier in stand so companion flange is facing upwards. Insert tool in carrier. Install pinion front bearing and compression sleeve
Tool SP-535. Install tool centralizing washer
SP-534 followed by the main screw nut, Tool
SP-533. Hold compression sleeve Tool SP-535 with holding Tool C-784 or C-3281, tighten nut to 240 foot-pounds torque. (Fig. 26).
With an inch-pound torque wrench on the nut of tool, rotate wrench several revolutions to seat bearings, (Fig. 24). The correct reading should be 25 to 35 inch-pounds. If bearing pre-load is more than 35 inch-pounds, a thicker shim should be used under front bearings.
Shims are available in thickness of .010, .012,
.014, .016, .018, .020, .022, .024 and .026 inch.
If bearing pre-load is less than 25 inch pounds, a thinner shim should be used.
NOTE: Correct pre-load readings can only be obtained with pinion shaft tool in a vertical position.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
GAUGE BLOCK
(TOOt)
57x16
Fig. 27-lnstalling Gauge Block on Main Body
Assemble gauge block SP-528 (Fig. 27) to main screw. Place SP-561 bearing arbor in carrier bearing supports, as shown in Figure
28.
NOTE: Remove any b u m or upsets in bearing supports before installing bearing arbor, as arbor must be securely seated in bottom of bearing bores.
Center arbor in differential bearing pedestals of carrier. Insert a piece of .002 inch shim stock between arbor and each cap and tighten caps to 10 foot-pounds torque. Select a pinion washer of sufficient thickness so that it will just pass between gauge block end of setting tool and machined surface of arbor, as shown in
Figure 2&
For example, if a .090 inch washer can be inserted, but a .092 washer cannot be forced between the two surfaces by hand, the .090
REAR AXLE—13
inch washer should be used even though it might feel loose. Check end of drive pinion as it should indicate amount that should be added or subtracted from washer that was selected in above check.
Example: If mark on pinion shaft indicated
4- 2, a .002 inch thinner washer should be used for final assembly. If spacer selected by the use of tool is .090 inch, it is necessary to deduct
.002 inch. The correct washer, therefore, for final assembly would be .088 inch.
When correct washer has been selected for drive pinion, disassemble tool from carrier.
Add washer selected to tool, between spacer
SP-2921 and pinion rear bearing. Add spacer
SP-2920 and the pinion bearing adjusting spacer (that was removed from the axle at disassembly). Insert tool assembly in carrier. Slide front bearing on shaft and into position in its cup. Install tool spacer, nut and washer. Tighten tool 240 minimum foot-pounds torque, as shown in Figure 24. Turn the tool with a speed wrench to permit bearings to seat. When bearings are seated, check bearing pre-load by revolving tool, using an inch-pound torque wrench, as shown in Figure 27. The correct bearing pre-load should be 25 to 35 inch-pounds torque.
If the bearing adjustment doeff not conform to above specifications, it will be necessary to change the adjustment by using a thicker or thinner bearing spacer. A thicker spacer should be used if pre-load is too great or a thinner spacer if pre-load is not sufficient. When correct spacer has been selected for drive pinion
Fig. 28—Installing Arbor
57x17
19x615
Fig. 29—Determining Spacer Washer Thickness
MyMopar.com
14—REAR AXLE
bearings, remove the carrier cap, shim stock and arbor from carrier housing. Disassemble tool from carrier. Install pinion setting washer over pinion stem with chamfered side against the pinion. Make certain the contacting surfaces of rear bearing cone are perfectly clean. Install cone on stem and press bearing on stem with
Tool DD-955. (Fig. 30).
Install the selected shim pack. Lubricate pinion front and rear bearing cones with heavy oil. Apply a light coat of sealer in carrier bore at seal area and install new seal, driving seal with Tool C-3656 until driver bottoms on pinion front bearing. (Fig. 31) (Seal installed).
Install companion flange on pinion stem with
Tool C-496. Holding companion flange with
Tool C-784, tighten nut to 240 foot-pounds torque.
11. PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD AND PINION
SETTING (LC-3, LY-1)
Check the bearing cups and carrier for grit and dirt. Assemble washer SP-2921 followed by correct pinion locating washer and spacer
SP-2920 along with rear bearing on main shaft of Tool C-758-D-3. Insert tool, bearing and washer assembly in carrier along with original shims previously removed from drive pinion.
Install front bearing, compression sleeve SP-
535, centralizing washer SP-534 and main nut
SP-533. Hold compression sleeve nut with holding Tool C-784 or C-3281 and torque nut to
240 foot-pounds.
PRESS
TOOL
REAR BEARING CONE
DRIVE PINION
52x382
Fig. 30— Installing Pinion Bearing Cone on Pinion Shaft
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
3/32 INCH
58x187
Fig. 31-Pinion Seal Installed
With an inch-pound torque wrench, rotate wrench in a clockwise direction several revolutions to seat bearings. The correct torque reading should be from 25 to 35 inch-pounds. If bearing preload is more than 35 inch-pounds, a thicker shim should be used under front bearing cone. Shims are available in thicknesses of
.012, .016, .018, .020, .022, .024 and .026 inch.
If bearing preload is less than 25 inch-pounds, a thinner shim should be used.
NOTE: Correct pre-load can only be obtained with tool in a vertical position.
Remove tool with shim pack, bearing cone, pinion locating washer, and spacer from carrier.
Assembly of Pinion in Carrier
With stem end of pinion facing up, install selected washer on pinion stem. Chamfered side of washer facing the drive pinion head. Position rear bearing cone on pinion stem. Make sure contacting surfaces of washer, pinion head and rear bearing cone are perfectly clean and free of dirt or foreign particles. Install rear bearing cone onto pinion stem with Tool DD-
955. Install selected shim pack. Lubricate pinion front and rear bearings. Insert pinion stem and bearing assembly in carrier. Apply a light coat of sealer in carrier bore at seal area and install new seal with Tool C-3656 until driver bottoms on pinion front bearing. (Fig. 31)
(Seal installed). Support pinion gear in carrier and start companion flange with installing
Tool C-496 or DD-999. Install plain washer
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
(concave side of washer down) and nut. Torque flange nut 240 foot-pounds and remove tool.
12. DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRE-LOAD
AND BACKLASH
NOTE: The differential bearing pre-load and backlash between drive gear and pinion are obtained after the pinion bearing pre-load and pinion are established.
Place differential and drive gear assembly on the bearing support and snug down the caps.
Check drive gear for runout on the back face
(Fig. 32). Drive gear runout should be true within .005 inch maximum. Make adjustments as follows:
Using two spanner wrenches Tool C-406
(Fig. 33), screw out bearing adjuster at back face of drive gear and screw in the opposite adjuster until considerable backlash is obtained.
This helps align bearing cups.
Tighten bearing cap lower bolts 110 footpounds torque, leaving top bolts fairly loose.
This holds bearing cups in line while moving drive gear. Screw out adjuster on tooth side of gear until it clears bearing cup. Screw in opposite adjuster until only a little backlash remains. This will insure bearing cup alignment for final adjustment.
Turn drive gear a few times by hand to seat bearings. With a dial indicator, find point of least backlash on drive gear at 90 degree intervals. At least point of backlash, screw in adjuster at back face of drive gear until .001
inch appears on indicator.
REAR AXLE—15
57x20
Fig. 33-Adjusting Differential Bearings
Screw in adjuster on tooth side until indicator shows .006 to .008 inch backlash. Lock adjusting nuts in place and tighten both top bolts 110 foot-pounds torque.
Secure the dial indicator to the carrier flange so pointer of indicator is squarely contacting one of the drive gear teeth (thrust side), (Fig.
34). After the first reading is taken, move the dial indicator away from the gear tooth and rotate and check drive gear at 90 degree intervals for specified backlash between drive gear and pinion. If adjustment is followed, the bearing supports will be spread, differential bearings pre-loaded, and backlash between drive gear and pinion established. ;:
CAUTION
Whenever adjustment of differential assembly is changed to obtain correct tooth contact, re-
Fig. 32—Checking Ring Gear Runout
57x19
57x21
Fig. 34-Checking Back Lash between Drive Gear and Pinion
MyMopar.com
16—REAR AXLE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL x256
Fig. 37—Correct Gear Tooth Contact
Fig. 35—Heavy Face Contact adjust differential bearing pre-load and backlash between drive gear and pinion.
If all adjustment have been correctly made, the gears will be properly meshed and quiet operation will result.
13. GEAR ADJUSTING FOR CORRECT
TOOTH CONTACT
Check tooth contact by means of gear marking compound applied to drive gear teeth, as shown in Figure 34. Apply load against back face of drive gear with a round bar as drive pinion is rotated. This leaves a bare area the size, shape and location of contact. If improper tooth contact is evident, as indicated by Fig. 35 and 36, the pinion should be adjusted either forward or backward, maintaining the backlash within
Fig. 36—Heavy Flank Contact specified limits until correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 37, is obtained. With adjustments properly made, correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 37, will result. Notice that contact pattern is well centered on the drive and coast sides about %
6
inch from edges of teeth. When tooth marks are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. Under an actual operating load, however, the contact area increases. Figures 35 and 36 show improper or incorrect tooth contact. To correct such conditions, readjust drive gear and pinion as follows: a. Heavy Face Contact
If tooth marking is across the length of tooth, narrow and high on the tooth face, as shown in Figure 36, the teeth will roll over or gall.
This type of contact causes excessive wear and noise.
To correct heavy face contact—move the pinion in toward center of drive gear by installing a thicker washer behind pinion. Readjust backlash.
b. Heavy Flank Contact
If tooth marking is across the length of tooth, but narrow and low on the flank, as shown in
Figure 36, the teeth will gall or score. This type of contact causes excessive wear and noise.
To correct heavy flank contact—move the pinion away from the center of the drive gear by using a thinner washer behind pinion. Readjust backlash.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
14. INSTALLATION OF DIFFERENTIAL
CARRIER
Check carrier flange and flange face for nicks and burrs. Mount differential and carrier to axle housing using a new gasket Tighten assembly mounting nuts 35 foot-pounds torque.
15. AXLE DRIVE SHAFT REPLACEMENT AND
END PLAY ADJUSTMENT
Loosen the brake shoe cams and remove the rear hub and drum assemblies with puller Tool
C-845, (Fig. 3).
NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the brake drums by hammering on end of an axle drive shaft as damage to the bearings and thrust block will result.
Disconnect the brake line at each cylinder and remove the brake support plates and dust shields as assemblies.
NOTE: Remove axle shaft keys and install Tool
C-745 for LCI and LC-2 and C-757 for LC-3 and LY-1 to protect the axle outer seal (Fig. 4 ) .
Remove shims. Remove axle drive shafts and bearing cups (Fig. 5). Remove inner oil seals
(Fig. 7).
NOTE: It is advisable to replace inner and outer oil seals when replacing an axle drive shaft.
Clean all parts thoroughly. Inspect bearings and cups for brinnelling and axle shaft for signs of fatigue, or worn bearing and seal sur-
Install shims totaling .040 inch at one end of the axle housing. Shims are available in .05,
.010, .0125, .015 and .030 inch thickness. Lubricate the bearing and install the axle shaft, bearing and bearing cup (Fig. 38), the bearing cup is driven into the axle housing with Tool
C-413 until the face of installing tool bottoms tightly against the shims. Remove tool and install the dust shield, lockwashers and nuts.
Tighten 30-35 foot-pounds torque.
Working from the opposite end of the axle housing, install the other axle shaft with bearing until inner end of axle shaft contacts the axle shaft thrust block. Lightly tap end of axle shaft with a fibre mallet to insure shaft is contacting the thrust block: this will force the
REAR AXLE—17
Fig. 38-lnstalling Axle Drive Shaft Bearing Cup with Tool C-413 opposite shaft away from the thrust block to its full travel.
Install the bearing cups carefully (Fig. 38), until no axle shaft end play exists without preloading the bearing. Rotate axle shaft during installation of the cup to properly seat bearing.
NOTE: The bearing cup will protrude beyond the face of the axle flange.
Hold the tool firmly against the bearing cup and install a feeler gauge between the axle housing flange and the face of the tool. This measurement will be approximately .040 inch.
To obtain .013 to .018 inch axle shaft end pSiy, add a minimum of .013 to whatever the feeler gauge reading indicates.
NOTE: It is recommended that the end play be held to the high limit rather than the low. The end play will decrease during operation due to heat expansion.
CAUTION
When adjusting axle shaft end play, equal thickness of shims should be removed or installed on both sides of axle housing to maintain the centralized position of axle shaft thrust block.
Remove the tool and install the correct shim pack thickness which has been determined.
After axle shaft end play has been, checked and corrected, install brake drum and wheel assembly. Tighten axle shaft nuts to a minimum of 145 foot-pounds torque. Install cotter keys and hub caps.
MyMopar.com
18—REAR AXLE
16. INNER OIL SEAL—AXLE SHAFT (REMOVED
G. Removal
Remove inner oil seal with puller Tool C-637
(Fig. 7).
b. Installation
Drive seal into axle counterbore until it is squarely bottomed (Fig. 39). The lip of seal is away from drive flange of tool.
17. BRAKE DUST SHIELD OIL SEAL a. Removal
With brake dust shield removed, remove outer seal (Fig. 40).
b. Installation
Install seal with outside marking on seal retainer toward brake shoe side of brake dust shield.
18. BEARING—AXLE DRIVE SHAFT a. Removal
With axle shaft removed, remove bearing with puller Tool C-293 (Fig. 6).
b. Installation
Press bearing on shaft (Fig. 41) and lubricate bearing rollers with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant. Install the outer bearing cups with
ToolC-413 (Fig. 38).
19. WELDING REAR AXLE HOUSING
The axle housing should be completely disassembled, if it is to be welded with arc welding equipment. It is also possible to weld the as-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DRIVER ( T O O U
BRAKE SUPPORT
OIL SEAL _
56x178
Fig. 40—Removing Rear Axle Shaft Oil Seal from Brake Support with Tool C-839 sembled housing with gas welding equipment, if precaution is taken, to protect gaskets and heat-treated parts.
20. REAR AXLE HOUSING ALIGNMENT
Rear Axle housings may become bent, bowed or warped. If not corrected, such conditions will cause premature axle failure. Disassemble axle assembly and check housing for horizontal and vertical alignment, as follows: a. Checking Axle Housing for Horizontal
Alignment
Place axle housing in "V" blocks—on surface plate. Turn housing until machined surface for carrier mounting is facing UP and perfectly level, as shown in Figure 42. Place square
REAR AXLE SHAFT
BEARING CONE A N D ROLLERS
5ox234A
Fig. 39—Installing Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal with Tool C-839
49x714
Fig. 41-Installing Axle Shaft Bearing
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REAR AXLE—19
Fig. 42-Leveling Housing for Checking Alignment Fig. 44-Squaring Axle for Vertical Alignment
Fig. 43—Checking Horizontal Alignment against machined surface of housing end flange and surface plate, as shown in Figure 43.
Amount of housing misalignment will be indicated by thickness of feeler gauge between square and end flange at top or bottom. A housing that checks more than .007 inch should be replaced.
b. Checking Axle Housing for Vertical Alignment
With housing in "V" blocks, turn housing until machined surface for carrier mounting is in
Fig. 45—Checking Vertical Alignment a squared, vertical position, as shown in Figure
44. Place a square against machined surface of housing end flange and surface plate, as shown in Figure 45. Amount of housing misalignment will be indicated by thickness of feeler gauge between square and end flange at top or bottom. A housing that checks more than .007
inch should be replaced. To determine amount that axle is misaligned, multiply thickness of feeler stock used by the ratio of 4.7 to 1.
SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
The conventional rear axle delivers the same amount of torque to both axle shafts. The driving force is therefore, limited by the wheel which has the least amount of traction. If one of the rear wheels gets on an icy patch or into soft mud, its friction against the road lowers suddenly so that the Torque delivered to that wheel is often great enough to overcome friction causing the wheel to spin.
To overcome these characteristics of the con-
MyMopar.com
20—REAR AXLE
ventional differential, the Sure-Grip differential permits the axle shaft whose wheel has the greater traction to develop a considerable amount of torque thus enabling the car to pull out of its difficulty.
21. DESCRIPTION (Fig. 46)
The Sure-Grip differential is similar to the conventional differential except for the addition of friction plates for clutching the differential case to the differential gears and a means for engaging these plates. It has four pinion gears, positioned in the case by two pinion shafts which are at right angles to each other and loose fitting at their intersection. Both ends of each shaft have two flat surfaces, or ramps, which mate with identical ramps in the differential case. There is additional clearance in the case to permit a slight peripheral movement of the ends of the pinion shafts within the case.
22. OPERATION (Fig. 47)
Torque delivered by the engine is transmitted to the rear wheels via the axle drive pinion
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PINION SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
CLUTCH PLATES
AXLE SHAFT
PINION
THRUST MEMBER
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
PINION SHAFT 5 8 x 2 6 0
Fig. 46—Sure-Grip Differential (Cut-away) and drive gear to the differential case and to the pinion shafts which are rotated by the case.
The pinion shafts carry the pinion gears around, rotating the differential side gears and the axle shafts which are splined to the side gears.
The friction of the wheels against the road, the inertia of the wheels themselves, and the
DRIVE PINION AXLE DRIVE GEAR
PINION THRUST
MEMBER
AXLE SHAFT
CLUTCH PLATES
AXLE SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR 58x259
Fig. 47—Sure-Grip Differential Cross-Section
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
AXLE DRIVE GEAR AXLE DRIVE PINION
AXLE DRIVE GEAR
REAR AXLE—21
AXLE DRIVE PINION
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
AXLE SHAFT
= = /
AXLE SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL
SIDE GEAR
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
58x261
Fig. 48—Power-Flow Axle Shafts Turning at Same Speed friction of the differential gears make the pinion shafts resist turning so that the driving force causes the pinion shaft ramps to slide against the differential case ramps pushing the pinion shafts apart slightly. As the pinion shafts move outward, two of the pinions on one of the pinion shafts bears against one of the pinion thrust members and the two pinions on the other pinion shaft bear against the other thrust member. Each thrust member is splined to one of the axle shafts and drives
58x262
Fig. 49—Power-Flow Axle Shafts Turning at Differential Speeds two friction plates of the clutch. The other two friction plates of each clutch are attached to the differential case so that when they are engaged, both axles shafts become clutched to the case, to a degree that varies with the amount of torque transmitted.
This in" effect, locks the axle shafts in normal, straight-ahead driving, thus prevents momentary spinning of the wheels when encountering poor traction. Refer to Figures 48 and 49 for "Power Flow."
SERVICE PROCEDURES
WARNING
Before raising a rear wheel off the ground, shut off engine, set parking brake tightly, carefully block front wheel diagonally opposite the one to be removed against both forward and rearward movement.
moval and installation of the conventional rear axle differential.
24. DISASSEMBLY
Remove axle drive gear. Check runout of drive gear mounting flange. Replace both case halves if runout exceeds .003 inch.
23. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF DIFFERENTIAL
Follow the same procedure outlined under re-
NOTE: Before disassembling case halves, place scribe marks on each half to aid in aligning
MyMopar.com
22—REAR AXLE
SCRIBE
MARKS
••V"
GROOVE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CLUTCH
PLATES
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
"V"
GROOVE
58x718
Fig. 50—Case Halves Scribed for Proper Reassembly case when reassembling (Fig. 5 0 ) .
Remove case cap attaching bolts and remove case cap (Fig. 51). Remove clutch plates (Fig.
52), (noting relation of clutch plates). Remove side gear retainer (Fig. 53). Remove side gear
(Fig. 54). Remove pinion shafts with pinion gears (Fig. 55). Remove remaining side gear
(Fig. 56), side gear retainer (Fig. 57) and clutch plates (Fig. 58). Remove axle shaft spacer by pressing out lock pin.
25. ASSEMBLY
Clean all parts thoroughly. Inspect all parts for wear, nicks and burrs. Replace worn, cracked or distorted clutch plates. If case is worn, it will be necessary to replace both halves.
Install clutch plates alternately so that an external tanged plate (approximately Vie inch thick ( is installed first, followed by an internal
68x720
Fig. 52—Removing or Installing Clutch Plates
(Cap Side)
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
SiOE GEAR
58x721
Fig. 53—Removing or Installing Side Gear Retainer
(Cap Side)
GEAR
AXLE SHAFT
THRUST SPACER
CASE CAP
CLUTCH
PLATES
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
58x719
Fig. 5 1 — Removing or Installing Differential Case Cap
58x722
Fig. 54-Removing or Installing Side Gear (Cap Side)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PINION
SHAFTS
PINIONi
GEARS 9
REAR AXLE—23
CLUTCH
PLATES
AXLE SHAFT
THRUST S 58x723
Fig. 55—Removing or Installing Pinion Shafts and Pinion Gears
GEAR
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
58x724
Fig. 56—Removing or Installing Side Gear from Differential Case
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
DIFFERENTIAL
CASE
CLUTCH
PLATES
58x726
Fig. 58—Removing or Installing Clutch Plates from Differential Case splined plate until 5 plates are installed. The thin plate (approximately Y
16
inch) should be installed so that it will be toward the case.
Install one side gear retainer, (Fig. 57) engaging splines of retainer with internal splined clutch plates. Install one side gear (Fig. 56).
Install a lock pin in one of the axle thrust spacers, drive pin until pin appears at thrust end of spacer but does not extend beyond thrust face. Align the pinion shafts and install spacer and pin through holes in pinion shafts.
Install the other axle shaft thrust spacer, engaging the lock pin, as shown in Figure 59.
Press spacer onto the lock pin until the two spacers are in contact. Thrust spacers are a loose fit in pinion shafts.
AXLE SHAFT f
THRUST SPACER^
PINION
SHAFTS
LOCK PIN
58x725
Removing or Installing Side Gear Retainer from Differential Case
58x727
Fig. 59-lnstalling Axle Shaft Thrust Spacers
MyMopar.com
24—REAR AXLE
Install the four pinion gears on the pinion shafts and install the shafts and pinions assembly in position (Fig. 55). Install side gear
(Fig. 54), side gear retainer (Fig. 53), and clutch plates (Fig. 52). Install clutch plates alternately with one thick plate (with tang) facing side gear retainer followed by an internal splined plate until 5 plates are installed.
NOTE: The thin plate (approximately 1/16 inch) should be installed so that it will be towards the case cap.
Install case cap, as shown in Figure 51. Make sure that scribe marks are in alignment, as shown in Figure 50.
Install cap attaching bolts. Tighten evenly to 40 foot-pounds torque. Check the clearance between the pinion mate shaft and the "V" of the case, as shown in Figure 60. Place feeler gauges on both ends of the same shaft and on opposite sides of the "V" so that the total shaft to case clearance can be checked. Do this for both shafts. Clearance should not exceed .020
inch. If clearance exceeds .020 inch with existing clutch plates, install new plates and recheck.
If clearance is still excessive, check shafts and case for wear.
FEELER
GAUGE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PINION
SHAFT
58x728
Fig. 60—Checking Clearance between Pinion
Mate Shafts and "V" in Case
26. INSTALLATION
Install drive gear and differential assembly in the same manner as outlined under the conventional differential assembly.
LUBRICATION
Fill Sure-Grip Differential with 3*4 pints of special differential lubricant MOPAR #1879414.
Check level of unit after filling.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
27. REAR WHEEL NOISE a. Wheel loose on axle shaft.
b. Worn drum or axle shaft keyways.
c. Wheel hub bolts loose.
d. Brinnelled or scored wheel bearings.
e. Insufficient lubrication.
f. Improper shimming at axle bearing.
g. Bent or spring axle shaft.
28. REAR AXLE NOISE a. Lubricant level too low.
b. End play in drive pinion bearings. Also see paragraph 3—Gear noise on coast.
c. Excessive gear lash between ring gear and pinion. Also see paragraph 3. Gear noise on pull.
d. Loose drive pinion companion flange nut.
e. Scuffed gear tooth contact surfaces.
29. REAR AXLE GEAR NOISE a. Gear noise on pull—a heavy pitch noise and increases as car speed increases, indicates scored gear teeth due to loss of lubricant, excessive gear lash or wrong type of lubricant.
b. Gear noise on coast—noise is heavy and
(irregular), indicating excessive end play in pinion bearings.
c. Bearing noise on pull or coast—a rough grating sound that may change slightly in volume as speed changes; indicates that the rear axle pinion bearings are chipped, cracked, scored, badly worn and loose, or no gear lash.
30. CLICKING NOISE IN DRIVE LINE
Noise in drive line when vehicle is backed up
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL or moved forward.—Clean axle shaft taper, keys and drums. Apply a heavy coating of chalk around entire circumference and length of the tapered section of rear axle shaft. Install drums and tighten axle shaft, nuts 145 foot-pounds torque, minimum. Check universal joints, and flange splines. Tighten companion flange nut
250-280 foot-pounds torque.
31. REAR AXLE DRIVE SHAFT BREAKAGE a. Improperly adjusted wheel bearings.
b. Abnormal clutch operation.
c. Misaligned axle housing.
d. Vehicle overloaded.
32. DIFFERENTIAL CASE BREAKAGE a. Improper differential bearing adjustment.
b. Abnormal clutch operation.
c. Excessive drive gear clearance.
d. Vehicle overloaded.
REAR AXLE—25
33. DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR BROKEN a. Worn thrust washers.
b. Misaligned or bent axle shaft.
c. Overloading vehicle.
34. TOOTH BREAKAGE
(Drive Gear and Pinion) a. Overloading and abnormal clutch operation.
b. Improper gear adjustment.
35. OVERHEATING OF AXLE UNIT a. Lubricant level too low.
b. Bearings adjusted too light.
c. Bearings adjusted too tight.
d. Excessive wear in gears.
e. Insufficient drive gear to pinion clearance.
36. LOSS OF LUBRICANT a. Lubricant level too high.
b. Clogged breather.
c. Scored or worn parts.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—1
Section III
BRAKES
CONTENTS
Page
Disassembly of Front Brake 5
Disassembly of Rear Brake 7
Brake Adjustment 9
Servicing the Master Cylinder 9
Servicing the Hand Brake 11
Removal, Disassembly and Assembly of Power Brake 15
Power Brake Service Procedures 20
Service Diagnosis 21
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
TOTAL CONTACT SERVICE BRAKES
MODELS LCI LC2, LC3, LY1
TYPE Total Contact (Floating Shoe) Hydraulic
DRUM DIAMETER 11 in. 12 in.
LINING
Type Moulded Asbestos
Attachment Cyclebond
Width 2Y
2
in.
Thickness % in.
BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING TENSION USING
FISH SCALE HOOKED AT TOE OF SHOE 35 to 45 lbs. required to break contact between shoe and push rod
BRAKE PEDAL FREE PLAY ]& in. to V
8
in.
WHEEL CYLINDER BORE
Front—Upper and Lower 1 y% in.
Rear 1% in.
MASTER CYLINDER BORE 1% in.
PISTON CLEARANCE .003 in. to .0065 in.
MyMopar.com
2—BRAKES CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
HAND BRAKE
MODELS LCI, LC2, LG3, LY1
TYPE Internal Expanding (TorqueFlite Trans.)
LOCATION Propeller Shaft at Rear of Transmission
DRUM DIAMETER 7 inch (TorqueFlite Trans.)
LINING TYPE Moulded and Compressed Asbestos
Length 13.06 inch (TorqueFlite Trans.)
Width 2 in.
Thickness % in.
Clearance .015 in. to .020 in.
SPECIAL TOOLS
Tool Number Tool Name
C-3014 Installing Tool-Hand Brake Adjusting Nut Spanner
C-3015 Installing Tool-Hand Brake Adjusting Nut Cable
C-3080 Hone-Brake Cylinder Surfacing ,,
C-3281 Wrench-Brake Drum Holding
C-3462 Wrench — Brake Shoe Return Spring Remover and Installer
C-3496 Tank-Master Cylinder Refiller Air Pressure
C-452 Puller-Parking Brake Drum
C-650 Hose-Brake Bleeder
C-757 Installing Sleeve-Rear Axle Shaft Oil Seal
C-845 Puller-Wheel
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Foot-pounds
Rear Brake Support Plate Screws 35
Front Brake Support Plate Bolt Nuts 35
Wheel Cylinder Screws 20
MyMopar.com
BRAKES—3
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section III
BRAKES
Total Contact brakes (Figs. 1 and 2) are continued on the 1958 models. The primary virtues of the Total Contact brakes are: (a) greater resistance to fade (b) instantaneous power response (c) less fatigue in heavy traffic when repeated acceleration and braking are necessary.
across width of lining. The web of shoe is contoured in depth, so when brakes are applied equal pressures are applied to brake drums along entire length of lining. The shoes are held in position by brake shoe return springs. One end of each spring is hooked in loop of return spring links. The other end engages the brake shoe.
These brakes are of the drum type, with floating brake shoes mounted between plates located on center plane of lining (Figs. 3 and
4). With wheel cylinders mounted in same plane, braking forces are transmitted equally
An anchor pin in support plate assembly holds the spring link in a fixed position at one end. The other end of link is positioned by the brake shoe adjusting cam, providing a constant-
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
ANCHOR
SUPPORT PLATE
ADJUSTING CAM
SPRING LINK
RETURN SPRIN
(4 COILS)
RETURN SPRING
(4 COILS)
•ADJUSTING CAM
-LOWER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
-SHIELD
57x46
Fig. 1-Total Contact Brake Assembly (Front)
SHIELD
ADJUSTING CAM
RETURN SPRING
(5 COILS)
RETURN
(5 COOS!
SPRING UN
SEAL
ANCHOR
SUPPORT P U T !
STxAfk
Fig. 2-Total Contact Brake Assembly (Rear)
(Windsor Only)
MyMopar.com
4—BRAKES
SHIELD
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FACING
SHOE
TUBE
RETAINER
BOLT
NUT
WASHER
SEAL
SHIELD
SCREW
BOLT
SCREW
RETAINER
SPRING
SHOE
Fig. 3—Front Brake (Disassembled View)
ROD
CYLINDER
57x359
FACING
SHOE ASSEMBLY
SPRING
WASHER
SCREW
SPRING
RETAINER
SUPPORT
SHOE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4-Rear Brake (Disassembled View)
SPRING
57x360
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BODY
SPRING
CUP
SCREW
EXPANDER
PISTON
BRAKES—5
The front shoe pivots at the bottom of support plate and rear shoe pivots at top. Each shoe is actuated by its own wheel cylinder.
Each rear brake assembly uses one wheel cylinder of double-acting type (Fig. 6). Both shoes pivot at the bottom of support plate and are actuated by wheel cylinder causing shoes to operate in opposition to each other. Self-energizing action is effective on rear brake front shoe when vehicle is traveling forward and effective on rear shoe when traveling in reverse.
BOOT-
BOOT
57x357
Fig. 5-Front Wheet Cylinder (Exploded View)
NOTE: Do not use brake spring pliers or damage to lining will result.
Turn brake shoe guide retainer *4 turn, then remove retainer and guide (Fig. 8). The lip on end of guide is used for positioning guide on outer support plate. Slide shoes from between
SCREW CUP loaded spring length. Side rattle and twisting of shoe is controlled by guide springs, which maintains a constant spring pressure against side of web of shoe holding shoe against support plate. The guide spring also helps to eliminate brake noise.
In front brakes two cylinders of single piston type (Fig. 5) are attached to the support plate assembly. The location of cylinders is such that when brakes are applied, self-energizing action affects both front and rear shoes of front brake when vehicle is traveling forward.
BOOT
57x358 A
Fig. 6-Rear Wheel Cylinder (Exploded View)
SERVICE PROCEDURES
1. DISASSEMBLY OF FRONT BRAKE
Block brake pedal to prevent downward movement of pedal. Back off adjusting cams. Remove wheel, and hub and drum assembly. Using
Tool C-3462, remove shoe return springs (Fig.
7). The end of tool should be inserted between spring link and support plate assembly. With tool cam slot engaging spring hook, turn handle of tool to disengage spring.
TOOL
57x49
Fig. 7—Removing Front Brake Shoe Return Spring
MyMopar.com
6—BRAKES
RETAINER
GUIDE SPRING
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DUST SEALS
57x48
Fig. 8—Front Brake Mounting Bolts support plates (Fig. 9). Disconnect flexible brake hose at upper wheel cylinder, and remove wheel cylinder mounting screws and lockwashers at rear of brake shield.
Remove four support plate mounting bolts, nuts and lockwashers, and remove support plate with wheel cylinders and cylinder connector tube attached (Fig. 10). With assembly on bench, remove cylinder connector tube and wheel cylinders.
NOTE: Perform operations outlined in icing the Wheel Cylinders."
Serv-
2. ASSEMBLY OF FRONT BRAKE
Place wheel cylinders into position in support
57x56
Fig. 10—Removing or Installing Support Plate
57x52
Fig. 11— Installing Front Brake Shoe Return Spring
57x50
Fig. 9—Removing Front Brake Shoe From
Support Plate
57x51
Fig. 12—Removing Rear Brake Shoe Return Spring with Tool C-3462
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BRAKES—7
iiii
56x12 B
Fig. 13—Removing or Installing Rear Brake Shoe plate assembly and install connector tube. Position support plate on brake shield and install cylinder mounting screw and lockwasher, but do not tighten.
NOTE: Be sure brake adjusting cam rubber dust washers are in place and in good condition before installing support plate assembly.
Install four support plate bolts, lockwashers, and nuts. Tighten 35 foot-pounds and wheel cylinder mounting screw 20 foot-pounds torque.
Install wheel cylinder flexible brake hose, and tighten all connections securely. Install brake shoes, and brake shoe return springs. (Fig. 11)
3. DISASSEMBLY OF REAR BRAKE
Block brake pedal in "UP" (released) position.
58x744
Fig. 15—Removing or Installing Rear Brake Support
Shield with (Tool C-745)
Raise car and remove wheels. Back off all adjusting cams. Remove hub and drum assembly, using puller Tool C-845. Insert wrench, Tool
C-3462, in inner support plate hole, with tool cam slot engaging spring hook (Fig. 12). Turn tool handle to disengage spring from return spring link, and turn handle in opposite direction to release spring. Remove both springs in this manner. Do not use brake spring pliers or damage to lining will result.
After removing brake shoe return spring, dislocate shoe from adjusting cam and wheel cylinder and remove brake shoes (Fig. 13).
To avoid warping of shoe force should not be used to remove shoe from support plate.
Fig. 14—Removing Rear Brake Shoe Support Plate
57x57
Fig. 16—Installing Rear Brake Support Plate
MyMopar.com
8—BRAKES
(Fig. 14). Disconnect brake line at wheel cylinder. Install Tool C-745 to protect axle shaft outer seal. (Fig. 15). Remove five nuts and lockwashers that retain brake support plate and brake shield to axle housing and remove support plate (Fig. 16) wheel cylinder and dust shield as a unit. Remove wheel cylinder.
4. ASSEMBLY OF REAR BRAKE
Assemble wheel cylinder on brake shoe support plate. Install screws and lockwashers finger tight. Assemble brake shoe support plate assembly to brake shield.
NOTE: Be sure brake adjusting cam rubber dust washers are in place and in good condition before installing brake support plate assembly.
These washers are located between support plate and brake shield.
Position Tool C-745 (Fig. 15) and install brake shield, support plate and wheel cylinder.
Tighten support plate screws 35 foot-pounds and wheel cylinder screws 20 foot-pounds torque. Connect brake fluid line to wheel cylinder.
Position brake shoes in support plate. Make sure wheel cylinder push rods properly engage toe end of shoes and shoes are in alignment.
Refer to "Brake Shoe Alignment." Paragraph 5.
If shoes must be relined, refer to "Brake Lining Replacement," Paragraph 6. Install brakes shoe return springs, using Tool C-3462 (Fig.
17). Check tension of springs, by hooking fish scale at toe of shoe and pulling shoe away from wheel cylinder. Scale should read 35 to
LOOP
TOOL
57x53
Fig. 17—Removing Rear Brake Shoe Return
Spring With Tool C-3462
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
45 pounds before contact is broken between web of shoe and wheel cylinder push rod.
NOTE: Long end of brake return springs must be hooked in shoes. Otherwise, brake noise will be encountered due to coil springs contacting shoes.
Install brake shoe guide springs, making sure positioning lip of spring engages hole in support plate (Fig. 13). Loosen adjusting cams and install hub, drum and wheel assembly. Bleed brake system, refill master cylinder to proper level, and adjust brakes, as outlined in "Brake Adjustment," Paragraph 8.
5. BRAKE SHOE ALIGNMENT
To insure maximum stopping ability, the entire length and width of lining must contact drum upon brake application. Examination of used lining will disclose if shoe is out of alignment.
Misaligned shoes cannot be corrected by grinding and should be discarded. The brake shoe support plate assembly should also be checked.
If it is sprung or damaged ,replace with new support assembly.
NOTE: Brake shoe clearance should be checked with a feeler gauge. The minimum clearance should be .003 inch.
6. BRAKE LINING REPLACEMENT
Pre-cemented Cyclebond brake lining can be successfully bonded to either new or used brake shoes.
NOTE: It is very important that equipment manufacturer's instructions be carefully observed for curing time, temperature, and clamping pressure (100 psi.)
9
depending on type of equipment used.
7. GRINDING THE BRAKE LINING
NOTE: Brake shoes grinding must be done with brake shoes removed from vehicle.
Check drum out-of-round with an accurate indicator. Drum must not exceed .004 inch.
Measure the drum diameter with an accurate micrometer, and transfer drum diameter to grinding machine and grind linings to specified clearance of .010 to .024 inch below drum diameter.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
8. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Whenever brakes have been relined or new shoe assemblies installed, always apply brake pedal prior to adjusting brakes. This action causes brake shoes to center themselves in brake drum and to assist in adjustment.
a. Front Brake Adjustment
Turn each adjusting cam (Fig. 18) on both front brakes in direction of forward wheel rotation (Fig. 19) until shoe lining is solid against drum and wheel is locked. Turn adjusting cams slowly in opposite direction ( each cam a little at a time) until no drag is felt.
b. Rear Brake Adjustment
The forward rear wheel brake shoe adjusting cams are rotated in direction of forward wheel rotation. The rear wheel shoe adjusting cams are rotated in direction of reverse wheel rotation (Fig. 19).
9. SERVICING THE WHEEL CYLINDER
Wheel cylinder pistons that are badly scored or corroded should be replaced. Use new piston cups when reconditioning cylinders. Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. Cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring, may be honed, however, using Tool
C-3080, providing diameter of cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A cylinder that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and new cylinder used. (Black stains
BRAKES—9
RIGHT FRONT
55X708
Fig. 19—Adjusting Front and Rear Brake Shoe
(Orientation Diagram) (As Viewed
Beneath Vehicle) on cylinder walls are caused by piston cups and will do no harm).
10. SERVICING THE MASTER CYLINDER
When servicing the hydraulic brake system, these important rules must be observed: All vital parts of system must be kept CLEAN, free from dirt, grease and oil. The system must be free from air and all connections must be tightly sealed upon completion of job. Only high boiling point brake fluid, such as MOPAR
Super Brake Fluid should be used. To remove
DASH PANEL
FILLER
PEDAL RETURN PEDAL
STOP / M O U N T I N G
S BRACKET
MASTER
CYLINDER
ASSEMBLY
BRAKE PEDAL
RETURN SPRING
MASTER
CYLINDER
PUSH ROD
Fig. 18-Adjusting Brake Shoe at Cam
STEERING^
COLUMN
BRAKE PEDAL
PEDAL
LOCATION
58x268
Fig. 20—Master Cylinder Location and Linkage
MyMopar.com
10—BRAKES
master cylinder, refer to Fig. 20, and proceed as follows:
Remove pedal return spring, disconnect push rod, and brake line tube at master cylinder.
Disconnect stop light switch leads and remove master cylinder. Clean outside of master cylinder thoroughly, remove reservoir filler cap, and drain all brake fluid. Refer to Figure 21 and disassemble master cylinder for inspection.
If master cylinder piston is badly scored or corroded, replace with new one. Piston cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning master cylinder.
Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. Cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, providing diameter of cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A master cylinder bore that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and new cylinder used. (Black stains on the cylinder bore are caused by piston cups and will do no harm).
CAUTION
Use extreme care cleaning master cylinder af-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ter reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing cylinder with alcohol. Wipe dry with clean lintless cloth and clean second time with alcohol. Dry master cylinder with air pressure, and flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure relief port in master cylinder is open.)
Before assembling, piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in new MOPAR
Super Brake Fluid.
11. BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Remove any dirt around master cylinder reservoir filler cap so that dirt and grit will not drop into reservoir. Compressed air refiller,
Tool C-3496, filled with MOPAR Super Brake
Fluid or high boiling point fluid, provides a convenient way for keeping master cylinder filled while bleeding brake system. Back brake adjusting cams all the way off. This allows pistons in wheel cylinders to move back and permits greater movement of piston to expel air faster.
Starting with right rear wheel cylinder, wipe dirt off bleeder valve, and attach bleeder hose,
Tool C-650, to valve. Place other end of hose in jar half full of brake fluid. Bleed intermit-
ROD
SCRiW
Fig. 21-Master Cylinder (Disassembled View)
VALVE
55x81B
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL tently, opening and closing valve (at wheel cylinder) about every four seconds. This causes a whirling action in cylinder to help expel air.
Continue this process until fluid runs out of bleeder hose in a solid stream without air bubbles. Continue bleeding by repeating this operation on left rear wheel, right front wheel, and left front wheel. At front wheels, bleed lower cylinder first to force all air out of connecting line.
If necessary, repeat bleeding operation when there is an indication of air remaining in system. Be sure to adjust cams after completion of bleeding operation.
12. TEST FOR FLUID CONTAMINATION
To determine if contamination exists in brake fluid (indicated by swollen or deteriorated rubber cups), make following test: Place small amount of drained brake fluid in small glass bottle. Separation of fluid into two distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content. Add
Ys water to contents and shake. If fluid becomes milky, oil is present. If fluid remains clear, it is not contaminated with mineral oil. Be safe and discard old brake fluid that has been bled from system. Fluid drained from bleeding operation may contain dirt particles or other contamination and should not be used.
13. SERVICING THE HAND BRAKE
(INTERNAL EXPANDING TYPE)
The hand brake (Fig. 22) is internal expanding type and is used only on cars equipped with
TorqueFlite Transmission. The brake is fully enclosed to keep out dirt and oil and requires very little servicing. Longer lining life is assured by protection against dirt and by use of
Cyclebond linings. Adjustment, when needed, are very simple for both steel control cable and shoes.
a. Disassembly
To service the internal expanding hand brake, refer to Fig. 23, and proceed as follows: Disconnect propeller shaft at transmission. Engage holding Tool, C-3281, with companion flange.
Loosen and remove companion flange nut, lockwasher and flatwasher. Install puller, Tool C-
452, on companion flange and remove flange and brake drum. Remove brake adjusting screw cover and disengage ball end of cable from op-
BRAKES—11
erating lever. Separate shoes at bottom, allowing brake shoe adjusting nut, screw and sleeve to drop out, and release shoes. Remove brake shoe return spring.
Pry out brake shoe anchor washer and remove outer shoe guide. Slide each shoe out from under brake support grease shield spring. (As shoes are removed, operating strut lever will drop out of plate.) Separate operating lever from right-hand brake shoe by removing nut, lockwasher and bolt. The brake is now disassembled as necessary for replacement of worn or damaged parts.
b. Assembly
Assemble operating lever to right-hand brake shoe. Slide right and left-hand brake shoes under brake support grease shield spring and up against inner anchor shoe guide. Spread shoes and insert operating lever strut, with wide slot toward operating lever and word "top" facing up.
Replace outer brake anchor shoe guide and washer. Replace brake shoe return spring.
Spread both shoes apart at bottom and install brake shoe adjusting nut, screw and sleeve. Be sure to install adjusting nut, screw and sleeve in proper position. Turn brake shoe adjusting nut until shoes are in released position, and install brake drum. Be sure brake shoes are centered on backing plate and are free to move.
Connect brake control cable and adjust brakes and control cable. See "Adjustment" "C". Replace the adjusting screw cover plate.
c. Adjustment
Push in Neutral (N) push button. Be sure hand brake is released. Disconnect front end of propeller shaft to permit turning of brake drum by hand (if not previously disconnected).
Remove adjusting screw cover plate. Turn brake shoe adjusting nut to decrease shoe-todrum clearance until slight drag is felt on drum. Back off adjusting nut at least one full notch (using spanner wrench, Tool C-3014) to give approximately .010 inch clearance. Be sure two raised shoulders on adjusting nut are seated in grooves on adjusting sleeve.
Test hand brake lever for travel. When it is properly adjusted, there should be from 3 to
5 notches on lever rod visible beyond face plate.
Never substitute for a brake shoe adjustment
MyMopar.com
12—BRAKES
BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN
OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING
OIL SEAL
BRAKE SUPPORT
GREASE SHIELD
BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY
BRAKE SUPPORT
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER
BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE
BRAKE SHOE OPERATING
LEVER LINK
BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE
\ SHIELD SPRING
BRAKE SHOE
RETURN SPRING
CABLE GUIDE CLAMP
BRACKET ASSEMBLY
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT'
Fig. 22—Internal Expanding Type Hand Brake
BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE
BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER
BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD
BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER LINK
BRAKE SHOE & LINING ASSY
SHAFT FLANGE & BRAKE DRUM ASSY
BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR
BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR
BRAKE SUPPORT
53x58
BRAKE SUPPORT
SPACER
BRAKE SUPPORT
SPACER SLEEVE
BRAKE ADJUSTING /
SCREW COVER /
1
BRAKE ADJUSTING
SCREW COVER
SCREW
SHAFT FLANGE WASHER
SHAFT FLANGE NUT \
BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD SPRING
BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING
BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW
BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER
BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW LOCKWASHER
BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW NUT
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE 53x3A
Fig. 23-Hand Brake (Disassembled View)
Internal Expanding Type
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
OPERATI
LEVER
NTROL CABLE
GUIDE CLAMP
CLAMP BOLT,
NUT AND
LOCK
WASHER
CONTROL CABl
SPRING
SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW, NUT AND SLEEVE
-BALL END OF CONTROL CABLE 50x137A
Fig. 24—Rear View of Brake (Typical) by adjusting cable. Install adjusting screw cover plate and connect propeller shaft.
14. SERVICING HAND BRAKE CABLE
(INTERNAL EXPANDING TYPE) a. Removal (At Transmission End)
If removal of control cable is required for replacement or repair, refer to Fig. 24, and proceed as follows. Loosen guide clamping bolt and remove adjusting screw cover plate. Pry ball
TO VACUUM SOURCE
BRAKES—13 end of cable up and out of operating level slot with a screwdriver. Remove control cable from guide.
b. Installation
Slide cable into guide. Insert installer, Tool C-
3015, between spring retainer washer and ball on end of cable. Hook cable into slot in operating lever, with lever between ball and washer.
c. Adjustment
After installation has been completed, adjust cable as follows: The cable length adjusting nut should be positioned against cable housing so there is at least .005 inch, but not more than
.010 inch, clearance between operating lever brake shoe cable.
To lock adjustment, tighten cable housing clamp securely and tighten cable adjusting nut against housing. Never substitute cable adjustment for brake shoe adjustment.
15. CYCLEBOND BRAKE LINING
Pre-cemented Cyclebond brake lining can be applied to either new or used shoes. See instructions in MOPAR Shop Replacement Packages.
AIR-VACUUM BELLOWS
VALVE OPERATING ROD
AIR INLET
AIR VALVE
AIR VALVE SPRING
VACUUM VALVE
AIR FILTER
VACUUM VALVE SPRING
Fig. 25— Bellows Type Power Brake (Sectional View)
56x29
MyMopar.com
BOLTS (4)
AIR VALVE
AIR FILTER
SEAL
LOCKWASHERS (4)
COVER PLATE
" O " RING
VACUUM VALVE
SEAL
SPRING
BELLOWS
RETAINER
SPRING / /
GUIDE
VALVE HOUSING
" O " RING
RETURN SPRING
BELLOWS SUPPORTS
INNER M O U N T I N G PLATE
STOP-SEAL WASHER
OPERATING ROD
BUTTON
SET SCREW
YOKE
" O " RING "
SET SCREW
Fig. 26—Bellows Type Power Brake (Disassembled View)
" O " RING
OUTER M O U N T I N G COVER
NUTS (4)
5 6 x 5 2 7 A i
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BRAKES—15
POWER BRAKE UNIT (BELLOWS TYPE)
The Bellows Type Booster unit is an ovalshaped, air-vacuum bellows mounted on engine side of dash panel, and is connected mechanically to brake pedal linkage through power unit push rod (Figs. 25 and 26). The unit is an air suspended unit and therefore, requires a vacuum reserve tank, which is mounted on the engine side of the front fender splash shield.
Brake linkage exists only when the unit is assisting in a brake application. With a loss of engine vacuum, the brake pedal is free to move completely, independent of the Power Unit to apply the brakes in the conventional manner.
(Fig. 25).
SERVICE PROCEDURES
16. REMOVAL OF POWER BRAKE UNIT lows: Remove nuts that attach mounting plate to unit. Slide plate off and away from unit.
Use pedal depressor, depress pedal to prevent trigger arm from extending beyond extremities of bracket.
NOTE: If pedal linkage is allowed to extend through hole in dash panel, trigger arm may be damaged.
Disconnect vacuum hose at power vent. Remove master cylinder power unit and bracket assembly hex nuts and lockwashers. Carefully withdraw unit from dash panel (Fig. 27).
NOTE: Use care to prevent loss of nylon bushing on pedal linkage cross pin.
17. DISASSEMBLING POWER BRAKE
Should it be necessary to disassemble bellows type power brake unit for overhaul or repair, refer to Figs. 28 and 29, and proceed as fol-
57x476
Fig. 28—Bellows Type Power Brake Unit and
Linkage Installation
Fig. 27-Power Brake (Installed)
57x475
Fig. 29—Removing or Installing Power Brake Unit
(Bellows Type Shown)
MyMopar.com
16—BRAKES
Remove and discard mounting plate "0" ring.
Using an Allen wrench, back out two set screws sufficiently to allow removal of yoke
(Fig. 30). Slide yoke off end of guide and away from unit. (Slightly compress bellows by hand for clearance when loosening set screw). Remove rubber stop seal washer. Lift valve operating rod out of unit, remove, and discard valve operating rod button seal (Fig. 31).
Remove nuts that attach outer mounting plate. Using screwdriver, pry up gently on plate to loosen. Lift plate straight up and away from unit. Discard "0" ring. Compress bellows by hand sufficiently to expose guide bearing.
Slide bearing off end of guide (Fig. 32). Remove and discard bearing seal from inside bearing. Peel back outer lip of bellows completely around inner mounting plate. (Keep one hand on inner mounting plate to prevent it from snapping up). Remove plate and lift out return spring and return spring retainer.
Place unit on its side and remove bolts and lockwashers that attach valve cover to valve.
Lift off cover (Fig. 33). (If it is necessary, use a flat blade to separate cover plate from bellows flange.) Extreme care should be taken to avoid marking or scratching inner face of plate where it clamps to bellows flange. A scratch on this surface could cause a leak.
Remove "0" ring from valve cover and discard. Remove air valve spring from center of valve. Remove air filter and slide air valve out of housing (Fig. 34). To remove valve, it may be necessary to use a hook formed from paper
YOKE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
STOP-SEAL WASHER
OUTER .
MOUNTING
PLATE
NOTCH
ALIGNMENT
ARROWS
5""" ' "
?
^ g f — ' BELLOWS
• » , J%
VALVE COVER PLATE —~'^ m
~** 56x529
Fig. 31—Removing or Installing Operating Rod clip. Place valve housing end down on bench.
Remove bellows from valve by peeling back outer lip of bellows (Fig. 35). Lift bellows up
COMPRESS
B E L L O W S
SLIGHTLY^
1
A
UIDE
INNER
MOUNTING
PLATE
SET SCREWS
56x531
Fig. 32—Removing Guide Bearing
AIR FILTER COVER
" O " RING
GUIDE
Fig. 30—Removing or Installing Yoke
6x528A
VALVE HOUSING
56x533
Fig. 33—Removing Valve Housing Cover
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
VALVE HOUSING
BRAKES—17
56x535
Fig. 34—Removing Air Valve
BELLOWS SUPPORTS (3)
GUIDE mm _ k
VALVE HOUSING
BELLOWS
56x536
Fig. 35—Removing Bellows
GUIDE
VALVE SEAL
VACUUM VALVE
SPRING
VACUUM
VALVE
VALVE
RETAINER
GUIDE SEAL
VALVE HOUSING
56x538
Fig. 37—Removing the Vacuum and Retainer and away from valve. If new bellows is to be installed, remove 3 bellows support.
Remove bolts and lockwashers that attach guide to valve body. Lift off guide to expose vacuum valve, valve spring and seals (Fig. 36).
Remove seals and discard them. Lift out vacuum valve and retainer (Fig. 37). Remove and discard valve housing to guide seal. Invert valve housing and remove air valve seal from its groove in valve body (Fig. 38).
CAUTION
Work carefully to avoid marking or scratching inside diameter bore of valve housing.
The bellows type power brake now has been disassembled as much as necessary for cleaning and inspection. Clean all parts (except bellows, bearing and air filter) in solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Place cleaned parts on clean paper for reassembly. If necessary, bellows may be washed with water and mild soap.
Inspect all parts for wear or damage and check air valve for signs of scoring or wear. If valve body or valve is scored or worn, install new
AIR VALVE SEAL (UPS OF
SEAL FACING
VALVE HOUSING
56x537
Fig. 36—Removing or Installing Guide
VALVE
HOUSING
5 6 x 5 3
9
Fig. 38—Removing or Installing the Air Valve Seal
MyMopar.com
18—BRAKES
VACUUM VALVE AND
RETAINER
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SEAL
(LIPS TOWARD BOR
Fig. 39— Installing the Vacuum Valve and Retainers parts as required. Always use new "O" and seal rings.
18. ASSEMBLING THE POWER BRAKE
Be sure all seals and "0" rings are suitably coated with silicone grease (rings and seals precoated in Parts Kits). Assemble as follows:
Insert new air valve seal into bore of valve housing (lips of sea i facing out when installed).
(Refer to Fig. 38). Carefully position new vacuum valve in retainer. Invert valve housing and install vacuum valve and retainer in housing. Press down firmly on retainer to snap it in place. (Fig. 39)
Position new valve housing to guide seal in groove provided. Install new vacuum valve seal in bore guide, with lip of seal toward bottom of bore (Fig. 40). Install vacuum valve spring in center of valve. Position guide over vacuum
GUIDE
56x542
Fig. 4 1 - Installing the Vacuum Seal valve, lining up bolt in guide with bolt holes in valve body. Carefully lower guide down against valve body, making certain tapered portion of vacuum valve enters seal evenly.
Press down on guide to seat and install bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bolts evenly and securely.
CAUTION
Be sure countersunk holes at end of guide, line up with long centerline of valve housing.
If new bellows are being installed, position supports in bellows. (The supports must be centered in three center accordion folds, and aligned with bellows and each other.) Using holding fixtures (made from piece of 4-inch pipe) to support guide and valve assembly, install bellows (Fig. 41). Be sure arrows on edge of bellows and housing are aligned. With assembly in holding fixture, lightly coat outer surface of air valve with silicone grease (do not use any other kind of grease), and insert
(small end first) into bore of housing (Fig.
AIR VALVE
VALVE HOUSING
FOLD LIP OVER
VALVE BODY
Fig. 40—Installing the Bellows
HOLDING
FIXTURE
56x543
ALIGNING
ARROWS
Fig. 42-lnstalling the Air Valve
56x544
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
42). Use finger pressure to test for free movement of valve against vacuum valve spring.
Install air valve spring in recess in air valve and air filter. Install new valve housing cover
"0" ring on shoulder provided on valve body hub. Position valve body cover over valve housing, with notch in edge of cover matching arrow on bellows (Fig. 43). Be sure air valve spring nestles on dimple in center of cover.
Press cover down evenly over valve housing to seat cover "0" ring, install bolts, and tighten securely.
Remove assembly from holding fixture and invert unit. Coat guide lightly with silicone grease and install return spring. Position spring evenly around hub of valve housing and guide (Fig. 44). Place spring retainer and inner mounting plate over spring, being sure arrow stamped on plate is in line with arrow on edge of bellows. Compress return spring and fold bellows lip over edge of plate. Be sure bellows fit evenly all around plate. Install new guide bearing seal in groove inside bearing bore. The seal must nest snugly in bearing. Using silicone grease, lubricate inside of bearing and slide it over guide, while compressing bellows (Fig. 45). Bearing must be installed with lip of seal facing out. Push bearing down over guide and into pocket of plate. Release bellows and bearing will ride up guide with plate into position.
Install bearing to mounting plate "0" ring and lower outer mounting plate down on assembly. The notch on edge of plate must be in
RETURN SPRING
GUIO
Fig. 44—Installing Return Spring
56x546 line with arrow on bellows. Install nuts and draw down finger tight. Slide new valve operating rod seal ring over nylon bumper on end of rod and into groove. Install rod in center of guide. Press on end of rod to test for free operation or movement of air and vacuum valves. A "two step" movement should be felt when rod is depressed and released fully. Place new stop-seal washer in position and install yoke on end of guide. Compress bellows slightly and alternately tighten set screws. The hub of yoke must be down snug against shoulder of guide, with set screws aligned with tapered holes in guide. Tighten mounting plate nuts securely.
Place mounting bracket in position, with long
INNER MOUNTING COVER
BEARING
BRAKES—19
TAPERED HOLES
(SET SCREW)
COVER
HOLDING FIXTURE
56x545
Fig. 43—Installing Valve Housing Cover
56x547
Fig. 45-lnstalling Guide Bearing
MyMopar.com
20—BRAKES
centerline of bracket at right angle to long centerline of unit section. Install nuts and lockwashers and tighten securely.
19. INSTALLATION OF POWER BRAKE UNIT
Position power brake unit on dash panel of vehicle so that its axis inclines down toward front of car.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
NOTE: As yoke passes through dash panel, be sure that it engages pedal linkage correctly by sliding over nylon bushings on power brake lever cross pin. Install and connect master cylinder.
Replace four hex nuts and lockwashers, tighten nuts securely, and release pedal.
PEDAL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
20. PEDAL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS (ON CAR)
(FIG. 46)
It should seldom be necessary to adjust brake pedal trigger arm. Adjustment, however, may be necessary, occasionally, to eliminate the following conditions: If pedal pressure releases slowly, adjust by rotating adjustment screw in counter-clockwise direction. A time delay (noted during a fast brake application), can be corrected by making a clockwise adjustment on adjusting screw. Should pedal vibrate (booster chatter), turn adjusting screw in counter-clockwise direction (Fig. 46). More likely cause of chatter is empty master cylinder, or improperly bled brake system. Refill or bleed.
NOTE: Rotation of adjustment screw should be limited to plus or minus 90 degrees about original setting.
21. ASSEMBLY OF PEDAL LINKAGE
IN PEDAL BRACKET
CAUTION
Use extreme care during assembly or handling of linkage as power brake pedal trigger arm is easily damaged.
22. LUBRICATION
Except for an occasional few drops of SAE
10-W Engine Oil on power brake lever pin bushings, brake pedal linkage requires no further lubrication. The power unit will require no lubrication under normal usage.
23. PEDAL FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT
After master cylinder, booster, and pedal linkages are completely installed, a free play adjustment check should be made at no vacuum as follows:
NOTE: Removing vacuum hose and pressing brake pedal several times will aid in obtaining a no vacuum condition.
Insert blade of screw driver between rubber collar of power brake trigger pivot and rear side of elongated hole in power brake lever, forcing them apart.
Fig. 46—Checking Pedal Free Play
(Bellows Type)
56x89A
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
NOTE: If brake pedal and power brake lever are not wedged apart, a false free play setting
(which includes booster valve travel) will be measured at pad end of pedal.
Check free play with linkage in this position by pushing lightly at pad end of brake pedal
(Fig. 46). Pedal free play travel should be between y
S2
and i/g inch. If pedal free play movement does not come within required limits, adjustment is made by lengthening or shortening push rod as required.
24. ALTERNATE METHOD O F MEASURING
PEDAL FREE PLAY
Remove master cylinder push rod end pin. Using light finger pressure, move push rod forward until contact is made with master cylinder piston. Attempt to insert push rod end pin through power lever and push rod end hole. If push rod must be pulled back to allow passage of push rod end pin, free play is present. If push rod must be pushed further into master cylinder to allow passage of push rod end pin, no free play is present and an adjustment must be made at push rod.
25. SERVICING THE MASTER CYLINDER
The master cylinder can be bled and push rod end assembled at proper length, as described in this section. The length from push rod end hole to master cylinder mounting face has changed however, because of difference in brake pedal linkage. The distance from push rod end hole to master cylinder face is 4.7
inches. The service procedures covering mas-
BRAKES—21
ter cylinder are the same as on standard master cylinder.
26. TESTING BRAKE SYSTEM
With unit completely assembled and installed on vehicle, make following vacuum and hydraulic leakage test. Operational test should also be made to determine that brake power unit and hydraulic brake system is operating up to standard.
Road test car and make brake applications at about 20 m.p.h. If brake pedal has a spongy feel when brakes are applied, air is present in hydraulic systems and lines must be bled. Bleed brake system at each wheel cylinder.
With engine not running, apply brakes several times to exhaust all vacuum in system. Depress brake pedal, hold foot pressure on pedal and start engine. As soon as engine begins to operate, brake pedal will tend to fall away under foot pressure, and less pressure will be required to hold pedal in applied position.
If there is NO noticeable difference in pedal effect with or without engine running, vacuum system is not functioning. Check for restriction in vacuum supply line, restriction on air cleaner, faulty pedal adjustments, or faulty power unit operation. Stop engine and again exhaust all vacuum in system. Depress brake pedal and hold foot pressure on pedal. If pedal gradually falls away under foot pressure, hydraulic system is leaking. If brake pedal travels to within one inch of toe board, brake shoes require readjustment or relining.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
27. PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR a. Check fluid in master cylinder, refill with
MOPAR Super brake fluid.
b. Check wear on brake lining, adjust or replace as necessary.
c. Check master cylinder for corrosion, repair or replace as necessary.
d. Check wheel cylinders, replace swollen or otherwise damaged cups.
e. Check loose connections or broken lines, repair or replace as necessary.
f. Air in brake system, bleed brakes using air-less bleeder tank unit, Tool C-837.
MyMopar.com
22—BRAKES
28. SPONGY PEDAL
a. Check brake fluid contamination, replace with MOPAR Super brake fluid.
b. Check brake drums, replace excessively refaced or broken drums.
29. BRAKES PULLING TO ONE SIDE a. Check tires, inflate to proper pressure.
b. Check brakes, adjust for proper clearance.
c. Check drums for out-of-round, machine drums and replace with brake shoes to fit drum.
d. Check brake shoes for twist, straighten, reline, or grind to fit drum. (See paragraph on shoe bind.) e. Oil, grease or brake fluid on shoes, clean with alcohol. Badly saturated linings may require replacement.
f. Check brake lining, replace with matched lining.
30. SQUEALING BRAKES a. Check lining, replace with proper lining.
b. Check brake drum, clean or reface as necessary.
c. Check brake shoes, straighten or replace as necessary.
d. Check brake support plate, straighten or replace.
e. Check brake shoe return spring, replace as necessary.
31. DRAGGING BRAKE a. Excessive brake adjustment, adjust to proper clearance.
b. Check hand brake, that it is fully released.
c. Check wheel cylinders, repair or replace
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL as necessary.
d. Check brake shoe return spring, replace worn or broken springs.
e. Brake pedal binding, loosen pedal across shaft.
f. Check master cylinder, repair or replace.
Check for swollen cup.
g. Check for lack of pedal free play—adjust.
h. Check brake shoe squareness (See Paragraph on shoe bind).
i. Check compensating port in master cylinder, repair or replace as necessary.
32. HARD PEDAL a. Check brake shoe lining, replace with proper lining.
b. Check brake shoe push rods, make proper adjustments.
33. WHEEL LOCKS a. Check brake lining, replace torn or loose lining.
b. Check wheel bearings, adjust to proper clearance.
c. Check wheel cylinders, repair or replace as necessary.
d. Check grease seal leaks, replace if necessary.
34. BRAKE PEDAL FAILS TO RETURN a. Check pedal return spring, adjust or replace as necessary.
b. Check master cylinder, tighten loose mounting bolts.
c. Check brake pedal mounting bracket, adjust bracket and tighten bolts.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES—1
Section IV
ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES
CONTENTS
Page
Accessory Belt Drives Torque Method 1
Accessory Belt Drives Belt Deflection Method 3
Service Diagnosis 3
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE METHOD
Torque (ft.-lbs.) to be applied to Components.
ACCESSORY
Power Steering Bracket**
Idler Bracket
LC-1
80*
25
USED BELT
LC-2, 3, LY-1
75
—
Generator—Without Air Conditioning...
With Air Conditioning
35
40
35
40
LC-1
120*
40
50
70
NEW BELT
LC-2, 3, LY-1
125
—
50
70
BELT DEFLECTION METHOD
Deflection (inches) to be applied at midpoint of belt segment under a five-pound load. (See Fig. 3)
ACCESSORY USED BELT NEW BELT
LC-1 LC-2, 3, LY-1 LC-1 LC-2, 3, LY-1
Power Steering**
Fan Belt-Idler
Generator—Without Air Conditioning...
With Air Conditioning
X,*
Vs
%
%
—
X
Hi
Hi
Hi
Hi
—
*LC-1 with Air Conditioning only.
'*On early production power steering pumps with bolt-on pulleys use the following torques and deflections.
TORQUE
Used Belt New Belt
45 70
DEFLECTION
Used Belt New Belt
MyMopar.com
2—ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section IV
ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES
SERVICE PROCEDURES
The satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on the maintenance of the proper belt tension. If the specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage may cause engine over-heating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced generator charging rates, and greatly reduced belt life.
To avoid any such adverse effects, the following service procedure should be followed:
Retighten all belts to the specified used belt* tension at new car preparation. Retighten all belts at the 2,000 mile check up. Check all belts by the deflection method at servicing and retighten if needed.
The new belt tension specifications should be used on all belt replacements, and the above procedure followed thereafter.
The two methods by which belt tensions can be properly established is as follows: ened by inserting the torque wrench in the square hole provided in the bracket as shown in Figure 2. Other belts can also be tightened by this method if the adjusting bracket has a square hole. To tighten belts by the torque method, loosen all mounting bolts and apply the specified torque to the accessory or idler.
Tighten all mounting bolts while the torque is apllied to the accessory. If it is not possible to use the torque wrench because of clearance, use an extension.
1. TORQUE METHOD
All generator and power steering pump belts can be tightened to the specified tension (see specifications in this section) by use of a torque wrench. The generator belts are tensioned by using Tool C-3379 and torque Wrench as shown
in Figure 1. The power steering belts are tight-
58x186
Fig. 2—Tightening Power Steering Belts using
Square Hole
TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 1—Tightening Generator Belts using Tool C-3379
Fig. 3-Belt Deflection Locations
I. Idler
C. S. Crankshaft
W . P. Water Pump
G. Generator
A. C. Air Conditioning
P. S. Power Steering
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
2. BELT DEFLECTION METHOD
All belts can also be tightened by measuring the deflection of the belt at the mid-point between two pulleys under a five-pound push or pull. A small spring scale Tool C-690 can be used to establish the five-pound load. See Figure 3 for correct location at which to measure deflection.
*Any belt that has operated for a minimum of a half-hour is considered to be used.
ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES—3
This method should be used only when it is not possible to use the torque method, as it is a less accurate substitute. To tension the belts by the deflection method, loosen all mounting bolts and use a bar to apply tension to the belts being careful not to damage the accessory. A pry bar can be used if the accessory has a square hole. Tighten the mounting bolts and check the deflection. (See tension specifications). It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to establish the correct tension.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
3. INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY OUTPUT DUE
TO BELT SLIPPAGE a. Check belt tension and belt condition.
b. If belt is excessively glazed or worn, replace and tighten as specified.
4. BELT SQUEAL WHEN ACCELERATING
ENGINE a. Belts too loose—retighten b. Belts glazed—replace belts
5. BELT SQUEAK AT IDLE a. Misaligned pulleys—align accessories (file brackets or use spacers as required) b. Non-uniform groove or eccentric pulley— replace pulley.
c. Non-uniform belt—replace belt d. Dirt and paint imbedded in belt—replace belt e. Belt too loose—retighten
6. BELT ROLLED OVER IN GROVE a. Broken cord in belt—replace belt
7. BELT JUMPS OFF a. Belt too loose—retighten b. Misaligned pulleys—align accessories
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL COOLING SYSTEM—1
Section V
COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
Page
Fluid Fan Drive (Silent Flite) 3
Water Pump 4
Radiator 5
Water Temperature Gauge 6
Thermostat 7
Radiator Pressure Cap 7
Service Diagnosis 7
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS LC-1,2 LC-3, LY-1
COOLING
Type Pressure Vent
Capacity:
With Heater 22 qts. 25 qts.
Without Heater 21 qts. 24 qts.
Radiator Cap Relief:
Valve Pressure — psi 14
With Air Conditioning 14
WATER PUMP
Type Centrifugal
Bearing Type Ball Bearing
THERMOSTAT
Type Choke
Starts to Open (up to) 158° to 162° F. (Air Cond. 177° to 182° F.)
Fully Open 185° F. (Air Cond. 202° F.)
FAN BELT
Number Used (Standard Steering) one
(Power Steering) two
Type V
Tension See Accessory Belt Drive Section IV
MyMopar.com
2—COOLING SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Cont'd)
MODELS LC-1, LC-2 LC-3, LY-1
FAN
Number of Blades *Six
Diameter 18 in.
RADIATOR-TO-BLADE
Clearance Top — % inch
Bottom — % inch
RADIATOR
Type Cellular Tubular or
Fin and Tube
Thickness (Standard) 2 inch Cellular Tubular or
2 inch Fin and Tube
With Air Conditioning 2J4 inch Cellular Tubular 2}/
2
inch Fin and Tube
*LC-1 with Air Conditioning have ring shroud, six blade Silent Flite fan with 2 x
/i inch Fin and Tube.
*LC-2, LC-3, LY-1 with Air Conditioning have a box type fan shroud, five blade Silent Flite fan.
*On LC-1 5 blade Silent Flite fan is not available.
SPECIAL TOOLS
Tool Number
C-311 Flushing Gun
C-3208 Remover-Water Pump Shaft Bushing
C-3476 Puller-Plastic Water Pump Impeller Insert
C-3468 Sleeve-Water Pump Bearing and Shaft Installing
C-551 Refacer—Water Pump Housing Seat
TIGHTENING REFERENCES
(Foot-Pounds)
Water Pump Body to Housing 30
Water Pump Body Bolt 30
Water Pump Inlet Elbow Bolt 30
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
COOLING SYSTEM—3
Section V
COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system incorporates a cellular tubular or fin and tube type, full flow radiator and a centrifugal water pump. On cars equipped with Air Conditioning—Heater Unit, the engine cooling system has an 180° F. thermostat,
14 pound radiator pressure cap and sufficient permanent type anti-f reeze to insure the engine coolant 20° F. in the summer time, and greater strength of anti-freeze in the winter according to the atmospheric temperatures. The 180° F.
thermostat and the 14 pound radiator pressure cap is for year around operation and sufficient permanent type anti-freeze to insure the engine coolant to 20° F. is required for the summer time.
1. SILENT FLUE FLUID FAN DRIVE
(FIGS. 1 AND 2)
(All Models with Air Conditioning)
The fluid fan drive consists of a rotor driven by the shaft which is secured to the water pump flange. The rotor is enclosed by the housing to which the fan is bolted. This housing is mounted on the shaft through two single row, sealed-f or-life, ball bearings.
A nominal clearance space is maintained between the housing and rotor. The rotor is free to float along the axis of the shaft and antifriction material has been applied to its faces in case of contact of these faces and the housing. The housing is partially filled with a special, heavy fluid and the drag of the fluid between the housing and rotor provides the driving force rotating the fan.
The power required to rotate the fan increases very rapidly with speed. The fluid fan drive has been designed to provide the necessary driving force to maintain cooling at low speeds and to limit the top speed of the fan at higher engine speeds, thus making more power available to the wheels and eliminating the fan noise encountered at higher engine speeds.
a. Engine Overheating
If the fan drive operates below its minimum design speed, excessive engine heating may occur. Check as follows: (1) The water pump to engine speed ratio is 1.1 to 1. The drive characteristics are such that a 1 to 1 ratio between the crank pulley and the fan should be obtained at an engine speed of 1400 R.P.M. or above.
This can be checked with a timing light. The speed of the fan and crank shaft pulley is the same when both components are stopped by the timing light. If both components are stopped by the timing light at 1400 Engine R.P.M. or
FAN
FLUID FAN
DRIVE UNIT
FAN
PULIEY
PUU.EY
SPACER
BOLT
warn
NUT
ixxmmm
58x180
Fig. 1-Silent Flite Fluid 5 Blade Fan Drive (Used
On Air Conditioning Only) Exploded View
NUT
LQCKWASHER
58x181
Fig. 2—Standard Fan Drive (Exploded View)
(Used without Air Conditioning)
MyMopar.com
4—COOLING SYSTEM
at a higher engine speed, the drive is satisfactory. If, however, the engine speed at which this occurs is less than 1400 R.P.M. the drive is operating below minimum speed and must be replaced with a new unit. Do Not Remove
Filler Plug or Add Fluid to Drive Unit.
b. Excessive Fan Noise
Should the drive lock-up, excessive fan noise will result. This may occur if a bearing fails or if drive is binding internally. On a properly functioning unit the fan. can be rotated relative to the water pump pulley with only light finger pressure. When rotating the fan by hand there will be a marked decrease in the effort to rotate it after the fan has been turned through several complete revolutions. If there is excessive fan noise, and if the drive cannot be rotated relative to the pump pulley, it is defective and must be replaced.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
2. WATER PUMP a. Removal from Car (See Fig. 3)
Drain cooling system and remove upper half of fan shroud (Air Conditioning Models only).
Loosen the power steering pump or idler pulley* generator, and remove all belts. Remove fan, spacer and pulley. On Air Conditioning Models, remove the pulley from water pump fan hub, loosen all nuts from fan to remove the fluid fan drive, as shown in Figure 1. Remove bolts holding water pump body to housing and remove water pump.
HOSE
WATER OUTLET ELBOW
THERMOSTAT
GASKET
CYLINDER WATER OUTLET
MANIFOLD
SHAFT A N D BEARING
GASKET
WATER SLINGER
57x136
Fig. 4—Removing Plastic Impeller b. Disassembly (Fig. 3)
Support pump body on hub end and remove impeller by breaking the plastic away from metal insert, as shown in Figure 4. Remove impeller metal insert using Tool C-3476.
NOTE: Shaft and bearing assembly do not have to be removed to service a leaking pump.
Support body on fan hub end and press out shaft and bearing assembly.
CAUTION
Shaft and bearing assembly can be removed only in the direction described. If an attempt is made to remove shaft in opposite direction, damage to water pump body will result.
PRESS
SHAFT A N D BEARING
SLEEVE (TOOL)
BODY
H O U S I N G
IMPELLER
RETAINING WASHER BODY
57x134 FAN PULLEY
Fig. 3 - W a t e r Pump Assembly (Exploded View)
PIPE 57x137
Fig. 5—Installing Shaft and Bearing Assembly
(Tool C-3468)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
.330
.090
IMPELLER
MUST BE
FLUSH
WITH END
OF SHAFT
Fig. 6—Schematic Drawing (Water Pump)
57x132
NOTE: Bearing and hub assemblies removed from water pumps for any reason should not be used again because damage to bearings and hub usually results during removal.
Clean parts thoroughly. Inspect condition of seal seat and recondition using refacing Tool
C-551.
c. Assembly (Fig. 1)
Support pump body as close to center bore as possible in an arbor press. DO NOT SUPPORT
BODY ON ATTACHING FACE, OR ON SEAL
SEAT. Press shaft and bearing assembly into body, using Tool C-3468, as shown in Figure 5.
NOTE: The .090 inch dimension must be maintained when installing new shaft and bearing assembly, as shown in Figure 6.
CAUTION
When pressing on impeller, support the pump body so that pressure is applied to the shaft and not to the pump body. If pressure is applied to pump body, damage to bearings will result.
Press impeller on evenly to prevent breakage.
Install fan hub while supporting pump body on impeller and on shaft, as this will apply pressure to the end of shaft, and not to the body. Maintain .330 inch dimension, as shown in Figure 6.
COOLING SYSTEM—5
d. Installation on Car (Fig. 7)
Install water pump body on housing, using new gasket. Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.
Install pulley, spacer and fan. (On Air Conditioning Models, assemble the fan to the fluid fan drive and pulley, and attach the assembly to the water pump. Tighten nuts to 15 foot-pounds torque. Install the upper half of fan shroud, run the engine, and check for leaks.
3. RADIATOR
The Torque Converter oil cooler is now located in the bottom of the pan in the radiator tank, which is an integral part of the radiator. The bottom of the radiator tank therefore, acts in the capacity of a heat exchanger in that the oil flowing from the torque converter is directed thru a tube into the bottom of the radiator pan, coming out on the opposite side of the radiator to be returned to the torque converter. See
Transmission Section XI, for operation.
a. Removal
Remove the two oil cooler connections at the bottom of the radiator and drain the oil from the tank. Drain the cooling system, remove hoses, fan shroud (On Air Conditioning Models only), and radiator support bolts. Remove the radiator.
b. Installation
Attach radiator to radiator support bolts and reconnect the two oil cooler connections. Install fan shroud (if so equipped) connect hoses and refill cooling system. Check for leaks. Add
| W A T E R PUMP ASSEMBLY
57x131
Fig. 7—Water Pump Installed (Spitfire Engine)
MyMopar.com
6—COOLING SYSTEM
sufficient oil to the transmission to refill the system.
c. Cleaning Radiator
Drain cooling system and refill with clean SOFT water and add the contents of one can (No. 1 top-compartment) of MOPAR Cooling System
Cleaner. Run engine at a fast idle for % to % hour.
Drain cooling system and refill with clean water. Pour conditioner (No. 2 bottom-compartment) into radiator and run engine for ten minutes. Flush entire cooling system until water runs clean. Refill radiator with clean
SOFT water. Use MOPAR Radiator Rust Inhibitor during the summer months.
4. REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure, in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water.
a. Cylinder Block
Drain radiator and remove hoses at radiator.
Remove thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing. Install flushing gun Tool C-311, or other suitable flushing gun to the inlet hose.
Connect water hose of gun to a pressure water source and the air hose of gun to a pressure air source. Turn on water> and when cylinder block is filled, turn on the air in short blasts. Allow cylinder block to fill between the blasts of air.
Continue this procedure until water runs clean.
Check thermostat and if satisfactory, reinstall; otherwise, replace. Use a new thermostat housing gasket. Refill cooling system.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
57x133
Fig. 9—Thermostat Assembly b. Radiator
Drain cooling system and remove hoses from engine. Install flushing gun Tool C-311, or other suitable flushing gun in radiator outlet neck.
Fill radiator and turn on air in short blasts.
NOTE: Do not apply more than 15 P.S.I, pressure when pressure flushing radiator, as damage to radiator may result.
Continue this procedure until water runs clean. Refill cooling system. Run engine and check for leaks.
5. WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE (Fig. 8) a. Dash Unit
Consists of two electro-magnets, one connected to the ignition switch and ground, and the other electro-magnet between the ignition switch and a variable resistance to ground sending unit in the engine water. The temperature of the water varies the current in the one electro-magnet which pulls against the pointer
VARIABLE FIELD
VARIABLE RESISTANCE
Fig. 8—Water Temperature Gauge
ENGINE UNIT
53x527A
- G > S J < E T
- VALVE
N
PRESSURE
FILLER
CAP
OVERFLOW
TUBE
RADIATOR FILLER
O P E N I N G
5 0 x 1 0 0
Fig. 10—Radiator Pressure Cap
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
(and other magnet) away from (C) cold position.
b. Sending Unit
The sending unit is located in the water outlet manifold and transmits the water temperature to dash unit.
c. Electrical Circuit (Testing)
Remove wire at sending unit and turn ignition switch on. Gauge hand should not move. If hand moves, the wire is grounded or gauge is defective. Remove wire at dash gauge terminal
"GA," and if hand still moves, replace dash gauge; otherwise, replace wire. If gauge operates correctly and wire is not grounded, replace the engine unit.
6. THERMOSTAT (Testing) (Fig. 9)
The thermostat starts to open at 158-162 degrees F. (177-182 degrees F. for Air Condi-
COOLING SYSTEM—7 tioned) and is fully opened at 185° Std. (202° for Air Conditioned). Place thermostat in a pail of water with a thermometer and heat water until thermostat starts to open. Check thermometer and continue heating until thermostat is wide open, and again check thermometer. Replace thermostats that do not open completely, open at too low temperature or open at too high temperature.
7. RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Radiators are equipped with a 14 psi cap, as shown in Figure 10. Always check identification number on cap, when replacing.
WARNING
When removing pressure cap, turn it counterclockwise to the stop, permitting built up pressure to escape through overflow tube. This will prevent hot water from spraying out of radiator filler opening.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
8. POOR CIRCULATION a. Check for low coolant level and refill to
114 inches below filler neck.
b. Inspect and replace hoses if collapsed.
c. Check for plugged radiator or cylinder block and reverse flush as necessary.
d. Check for loose water pump impeller and repair as necessary.
e. Check for loose or defective fan belt, tighten or replace as necessary.
9. OVERHEATING a. Refer to Poor Circulation listed in Paragraph 8.
b. Check for plugged air passages of radiator core and clean passages by applying air pressure on reverse side of radiator core.
c. Check for sticking thermostat and replace as necessary.
d. Check for excessive sludge in the crankcase. Drain and flush crankcase as necessary.
In severe cases, remove oil pan and clean inside of block by hand.
10. OVERCOOLING a. Check temperature gauges and replace as necessary.
b. Check operation of thermostat (could be sticking) in the open position.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—1
Section VI
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CONTENTS
Page
Battery 6
Removal of Starter 10
Disassembling the Starter 10
Testing the Armature 10
Assembling the Starter 11
Generator Removal 12
Generator Output Test 13
Assembling the Generator 17
Servicing the Regulator 17
Removal and Installation of Distributor 23
Checking Distributor Governor Advance 23
Servicing the Spark Plugs 26
Servicing the High Tension Cables 27
Headlight Aiming and Lighting System 28
Operation of Fuel Gauges 30
Ignition Starter Switch 33
Turn Signal Switch 34
Servicing the Horns 34
Servicing the Windshield Wipers 35
Servicing the Electric Window Lifts 37
Electric Locking Door Locks 38
Servicing the Front Power Seats 38
Service Diagnosis 40
MyMopar.com
2—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SECTION VI
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Voltage
Capacity
Terminal Ground
BATTERY
LC-1, LC-2
12
66 Plate 60 Amp hour
Negative
LC-3, LY-1
12
78 Plate 70 Amp hour
Negative
STARTER
LC-1, LC-2, LC-3, LY-1
Model MDT 6003
Voltage 12 Volts
Field Coils 4
Poles 4
Drive Solenoid Shift Over-running Clutch
Brush Spring Tension (New Brushes) 32 to 48 ozs.
End Play .005" to .030"'
Free Running Test 3800 Min. R P M - 8 0 Amps at 11.0 Volts
Stall Torque Test 8.5 Min. Ft. Lbs.-350 Amps at 4 Volts
Solenoid Switch:
Pull-in Coil Draw 28.6 to 32.9 Amps at 6 Volts
Hold-in Coil Draw 10.2 to 11.8 Amps at 6 Volts
Pinion Adjustment (Clearance Between Pinion and Stop) with armature end play removed %" + Hz ~ W
ELECTRICAL LIGHT BULBS
Headlights Inner (High Beam Only)....
Headlights Outer (High and Low Beam)
Headlight Beam Indicator Light
Parking and Front Turn Signal
Rear Tail, Stop and Turn Signal Light..
License Plate Light
Glove Box Light
Instrument Lights
Map Light
Turn Signal Indicator Light
Dome Light
Hand Brake Warning Light
Back U p Light
Number
Required
2
2
1
2
2
4
1
2
1
2
1 or 2
1
2
Mazda
Number
4001
4002
57
1034
1034
67
57
57
1004
57
1004
90
1073
C.P. or
Watts
50-37^ W
2
32-4
32-4
3
15
2
2
2
15
6
32
Chrysler
Part No.
1753435
1753436
127934
151567
151567
142450
127934
127934
151578
127934
151578
142453
142456
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—3
ELECTRICAL LIGHT BULBS (Cont'd)
Number
Required
Mazda
Number
C.P. or
Watts
Chrysler
Part No.
Transmission Push Button Light.
Radio Dial Light
Clock Light
Trunk Light
Circuit
57
1891
57
1003
CIRCUIT PROTECTORS
Type Rated Capacity
2
15
127934
127934
151577
Location
Lighting System
Clock
Windshield Wiper. . .
Radio
Window Lifts
Six Way Seat
Car Model
Circuit Breaker
Internally Protected
Circuit Breaker
Fuse
Circuit Breaker
2 2 ^ AMP
6 AMP
Circuit Breaker
20 AMP-30 AMP
Spl. 4 Dr. Sedan
40 AMP
GENERATOR
LC-1, LC-2, LC-3
Gen. Model
Standard
With Air Conditioning.
With Instant Heater..
Rotation
Voltage
Output
Rated Current Output
Bearings
Standard
(GJC-7012A; 1770754)
(GHM-6004C; 1704264)
(GHM-6001E; 1753265)
Clockwise at Drive End
12
Controlled by Vibrating
Regulator
30 Amperes
With Air Conditioning
Ground Polarity
Poles
Brushes
Spring Tension
Field Coil Draw (Arm. to Field Term.).
Motorizing Draw
Test Bench Output Test (at 70° F)
Ball at drive end —
Bushing at opposite end
Ball-Both ends
Negative
2
2
18 to 36 oz.
1.2 to 1.3 amps at 10 volts
3.4 to 3.9 amps at 10 volts
20 ampS, 14.3 volts at 1750
Max. RPM
30 amps, 15 volts at 2250 RPM
Integral with Headlight Switch
Back of Wiper Switch
In Radio Lead Wire
Behind Left Front Kick Panel
Behind Left Front Kick Panel
LY-1
(GHM-6001E; 1753625)
(GHM-6004C; 1704264)
(GHM-6001E; 1753265)
Clockwise at Drive End
12
Controlled by Vibrating
Regulator
30 Amperes
Ball at drive end —
Bushing at opposite end
Ball-Both ends
Negative
2
2
20 to 36 oz.
1.1 to 1.3 amps at 10 volts
2.3 to 2.6 amps at 10 volts
6 amps, 13.6 volts at 950
Max. RPM
30 amps, 15 volts at 1800 Max.
RPM
Car Model
Regulator Model.
Rround Polarity.
Gesistors
Marked 100. . .
Marked 60. . .
Marked 38. . .
Marked 30.. .
REGULATOR
LC-1, LC-2, LC-3, LY-1
VRX-6201A—1642333
Negative
55.0 to 70.0 ohms
34.5 to 42 ohms
28.0 to 34.5 ohms
MyMopar.com
4—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REGULATOR (Cont'd)
Gar Model LC-1, LC-2, LC-3, LY-1
Voltage Regulator
Voltage Winding Resistance to
15.05
to
14.94
to
14.90
43.7 to 49.3 ohms
•Armature Air Gap .048 to .052 inch
•Contacts are closed with high limit gauge installed and open with the low limit gauge installed. (Gauge on contact side and next to brass pin.)
Voltage Setting (Operating Voltage after
15 minute run at 7 amperes)
Temperature in degrees F 50° 60° 70° 80° 90° 100° 110° 120°
14.42 14.36 14.30 14.23 14.16 14.09 14.2 13.94
to
14.83
to
14.76
to
14.69
to
14.9
to
14.54
Where difficulty is encountered in keeping battery charged, it is suggested that the upper voltage limit for a given temperature be used to set regulator.
Current Limiting Regulator
•Armature Air Gap
Current Setting
.045 to .052 inch
•Contacts are closed with high limit gauge installed and open with the low limit gauge in place. (Gauge installed on contact side and next to brass pin).
Current Regulator Setting after 15 minute run at 7 amperes. Then followed with a 15 minute run at rated regulator setting (.2 to .4 volt below the voltage regulator setting).
40°
31-35
60°
29-33
70°
28-32
80°
27-31
100°
25-29
40°
41-45
60°
39-43
70°
38-42
80°
37-41
100°
35-39
Temperature in degrees F
Current at Specific Temperature.
Cut-Out Relay:
Voltage Winding Resistance
Air Gap (Contacts Open)
Measure Gap as near hinge as possible.
Contact Gap (Minimum)
Contacts Close (Volts)
Contacts Open (After a charge
Volts of 10 amperes.)
Discharge Amperes
107 to 121 ohms
.031 to .034 inch
.015 inch
13.0 to 13.75 volts
0 to 6 amperes discharge
8.2 to 9.3 volts
Car Model
Timing Mark Location.
Distributor Model
Standard
Contact Gap
Dwell
DISTRIBUTOR
LC-1, LC-2
Vibration Damper
IBP 4002F; 1841514
.015 to .018 inch
29° to 32°
LC-3, LY-1
Vibration Damper
Condenser Capacity
Breaker Arm Spring Tension
Drive
Side Play (shaft)
End Play (measured after assembly)
Firing Order
Timing
Timing Mark Location
Advance Curves
Automatic (Distributor degrees and RPM)
.25 to .285 mfd.
17 to 20 ounces
Camshaft
.005 inch max.
.003 to .010 inch
18436572
6° BTC
Vibration Damper
IBP4002A; 1770750
0° at 250 to 450
0° to 2° at 450
2.75° to 4.75° at 750
6° to 8° at 1100
9° to 11° at 2200
IBS 4007A; 1841515
.015 to .018 inch
(one set of points-29° to 32°)
(both sets of points-36° to 39°)
.25 to .285 mfd.
17 to 20 ounces
Camshaft
.005 inch max.
.003 to .010 inch
18436572
6° BTC
Vibration Damper
IBK4304; 1689325
0° at 220 to 490
0° to 2° at 490
2° to 4° at 750
3.5° to 4.5° at 850
8° to 11° at 2400
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
DISTRIBUTOR (Cont'd)
LC-1, LC-2 Gar Model
Vacuum (Distributor degrees vacuum) and inches of
0 ° _ 8 " - 9 "
4.5°-6.5°-12*
10°-12°-16*
LC-3, LY-1
0°-7.5*-8.5*
4.5°-6.5°-ll*
10°-12°-16*
SPARK PLUGS AND COIL
Spark Plugs
Type AR-42 AGR-42
Size 14 mm. 14 mm.
Gap .035 in. .035 in.
Coil
Model CAH-4001 Chrysler Part No. (1688212)
Output test should include resistor.
Secondary resistance (ohms at 70° to 80° F.) 8000 to 9200
Primary resistance (ohms at 70° to 80° F.) 1.65 to 1.79
Ballast resistance (ohms at 70° to 80° F.) 665 to .735
HORNS
All Models
Make Auto-Lite, Spartan, Jubilee
Current draw at 12.4 volts , 9 to 10 amps
ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER
All Models
Variable Speed Motor
Rated Volts 12
Resistor (ohms) (Variable speed wiper) 17-40
Field Current Draw at 13.5 volts V/z to 2 amps
Motor Current Draw (with dry glass)
High Speed 1J4 amps at 66 to 75 rpm
Low Speed 3 amps at 35 to 40 rpm
POWER SEAT LIFTS
All Models
Type Motor Series wound
Rated Voltage 12
Current Draw with Passenger Load Pounds Amps Volts
Vertical Lift 500 50-60 10.5
200 40-45 10.6
Horizontal lift 600 60 10.4
150 35 11.0
WINDOW LIFTS
All Models
Type Motor Series wound
Rated Voltage 12
Maximum Stall Current 25 amps at 8.9 volts
MyMopar.com
6—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section VI
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
BATTERIES
1. TESTING THE 12-VOLT BATTERY (FIG. 1)
NOTE: The battery cable terminals should be tight on battery posts to insure good contact.
Battery posts and terminals that are corroded should be disconnected, terminals and clamp cleaned with a soda solution and a stiff brush.
After cleaning, apply a thin coating of petrolatum.
a. Specific Gravity Test
Test specific gravity of battery with an accurate hydrometer. Where electrolyte level is too low to make a test, add battery water but do not attempt to test gravity until battery has been returned to service operation for at least four hours of normal driving.
The specific gravity of electrolyte will vary
4 points (.004) with every 10 degree F. change in temperature. Subtract 4 points (.004) for each 10 degrees below, and add .004 for each
10 degrees above 80 degrees F. Readings must be corrected to 80 degrees F. before interpreting as follows:
TERMINALS
CASE
SEALING COMPOUND
waoBsmmm
POST STRAP
ELEMENT REST-
SEDIMENT SPACED ^ w 56x553
Fig. 1-Typical 12 Volt Battery (Cutaway View)
A fully-charged battery has a specific gravity reading of 1.255 t o 1.275 (all batteries for use in temperate climates).
A battery that has a specific gravity reading of 1.225 or less, in cold temperature or 1.210
in warm temperature and all cells reading evenly within 15 specific gravity points (.015) of each other, requires recharging.
A battery that has a specific gravity reading which varies more than 15 points between any two cells should be recharged and high rate discharge tester or other suitable method used to check battery before discarding battery as unsuitable for use.
b. Voltage Tests
(1) Battery Cell Tester (Open-Circuit Voltmeter)
To make battery test, contact the meter prods
(Tool MT-379) to proper cell terminals (red to positive, black to negative), using caution not to connect across more than one cell. The point of prod will have to be pushed through sealing compound to make contact with buried link for each cell reading.
NOTE: Freshly charged batteries have a "surface charge" which causes high and inaccurate readings unless properly dissipated. If battery is in vehicle, turn headlights on for one to three minutes to remove surface charge. Then turn lights off and wait several minutes before taking another reading.
The individual cell readings should not vary more than 0.05 volt between any two cells. A battery varying more than .05 volt between any two cells should be recharged and high rate discharge tester or other suitable method used to check battery before discarding battery as unsuitable for use.
(2) High Rate Discharge Test of Capacity
(Fig. 2)
Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
500 AMPERE
CARBON PILE RHEOSTAT
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—7
0 TO 300 AMPERE METER
'NEGATIVE G R O U N D
Fig. 2—Test Connections for Battery Capacity Test when battery equals or exceeds 1.210 specific gravity at 80 degrees F.
Connect a carbon pile rheostat in series with an ammeter and battery, (Fig. 2 ) . Be sure the carbon pile control knob is rotated to full resistance position before connecting. The voltmeter clips must contact battery posts only and not the high rate discharge tester clips. Unless this is done, the actual battery terminal voltage will not be indicated. Rotate carbon pile control knob until 200 amperes register on the meter. With battery under discharge for approximately 15 seconds, read terminal voltage.
If terminal voltage shows 9.5 volts or more, battery has good output capacity.
2. CHARGING THE BATTERY a. Slow Charging
NOTE: Slow charging is recommended wherever possible.
The slow chargers commonly used in service stations are suitable for charging both 6 and
12-volt batteries on the same circuit. Each 12volt unit must be considered as equal to two
6-volt batteries, and charging rate must be ad-
56x78 justed to suit the smallest 12-volt battery on the line. Safe slow charging rates are determined by allowing one ampere per positive plate per cell. The proper slow charging rate for an
11 plate battery is five amperes.
Connect (positive + ) charger lead to positive terminal and negative (—) charger lead to negative terminal of battery. If several batteries are to be charged in same circuit, due to charging voltage supply, batteries are connected in series for required number per circuit.
As batteries approach full charge, each cell will begin to gas or bubble freely. The battery temperature should not exceed 125 degrees F.
during charge. If this temperature is reached, the battery should be cooled by reducing charge rate or removed from circuit. The battery is fully-charged when three successive hourly hydrometer readings show no rise in specific gravity.
b. Slow Charging Batteries to Remove Sulphation
To condition a battery that is sulphated, charge battery for minimum of 24 hours at a maximum charging rate of four (4) amperes. As battery
MyMopar.com
8—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL approaches full charge check specific gravity at hourly intervals. With no rise in specific gravity for three successive readings battery is charged to its peak capacity.
c. Fast Charging
Use only a 12-volt fast charger and adjust charging rates to maximum of 25 to 30 amperes for 60 or 70 ampere hour batteries.
CAUTION
Battery temperature should not exceed 125 degrees F. during charge. If charger is not equipped with thermostatic cut-off and battery has not received sufficient charging, turn charger off until battery has cooled to 100 degrees F.
before starting high rate charge for continued charging.
d. Boosting Charge for Stock Batteries
Stock batteries should be boosted monthly or when specific gravity reaches 1.210 specific gravity corrected to 80 degrees F., or when open-circuit voltage drops to 2.05 volts per cell.
Battery should be fully-charged when installed.
WARNING
When batteries are being charged an explosive gas mixture forms beneath cover of each cell.
Do not smoke near batteries on charge or which have recently been charged. Do not break live circuits at terminals of batteries on charge.
A spark will occur where the live circuit is broken
Keep all open flames away from battery.
STARTERS
The starter drive is engaged with flywheel by a solenoid mounted on starter. The relay is separated from solenoid and is mounted on left front fender splash shield. There is no cover band on starter, and brush arm supports are attached to starter frame.
3. TESTING STARTER RESISTANCE
AND CURRENT DRAW
Test battery. If it tests 1.210 specific gravity or less, charge battery. Test circuit resistance and starter current draw at same time (Fig.
3).
NEGATIVE GROUND
STARTER SWITCH
(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY) 56x79A
Fig. 3—Testing Starter Motor Circuit Resistance and Current Draw
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
• CTRICAL SYSTEM—9
CN
MyMopar.com
10—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Disconnect battery lead from positive battery terminal post. Connect 0 to 300 scale ammeter between disconnected lead and battery terminal post. Connect a test voltmeter with .10 volt scale divisions between the removed battery cable lug and solenoid switch motor terminal.
Crank engine and observe readings on voltmeter and ammeter. The voltage should not exceed .20 volt per 100 amperes of current. The current should not exceed 150 amperes (warm engine and battery). A reading of voltage that exceeds .20 volt per 100 amperes indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connections, defective cable or burned switch contacts. A current that is high (150 amperes or more), and is combined with slow cranking speed, indicates that starter should be removed and repaired. A current that is low, with slow cranking speed, indicates resistance in solenoid switch or loose brush pigtail or soldered lead starter such as burned commutator and worn brushes.
4. REMOVAL OF STARTER
Disconnect battery cable from battery. Raise car and disconnect cable and solenoid lead wire from solenoid switch. Remove starter attaching bolts and remove starter assembly.
5. TESTING THE STARTER MOTOR
(ASSEMBLED) a. Free-Running Test
Place starter in vise and connect a fully charged, 12 volt battery to starter as follows:
Connect a test ammeter (100 ampere scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with battery positive post and starter terminal. Connect voltmeter (15 volt scale) across starter. Rotate carbon pile to full-resistance position.
Connect battery cable from battery negative post to starter frame. Adjust rheostat until starter voltage shown on voltmeter reads 11 volts. The current draw should be 80 amperes, with a minimum armature speed of 3800 r.p.m.
b. Stall Test
Install starter motor in test bench. Follow instructions of equipment manufacturer and check stall torque of starter against following specifications. With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts, stall torque should be 8.5
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL foot-pounds, minimum, with a current draw of 350 amperes.
6. DISASSEMBLING THE STARTER (TIG. 4)
Remove clevis pin from solenoid plunger linkage. Remove thru bolts and tap commutator end plate from field frame. Lift brush holder arms so brushes are raised from commutator.
Hold brushes up by use of "U" shaped clips to outside of frame. Tap drive end housing free from dowel pin and remove drive end housing and armature assembly from field frame. Remove shield plate attaching screws and remove drive end housing from armature and drive assembly.
7. CLEANING THE STARTER PARTS
Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. Immersing field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage insulation. Wipe these parts with cloth only.
Do not immerse drive unit in cleaning solvent. The drive clutch is pre-lubricated at factory and solvent will wash lubrication from clutch. The drive unit may be cleaned with brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with cloth.
8. REPLACING BRUSHES AND SPRINGS
Brushes that are worn more than y% the length of a new brush, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced. The starter must be disassembled to install brushes and springs.
9. TESTING THE ARMATURE a. Testing the Armature for Short Circuit
Place armature in growler and hold a thin steel blade parallel to core and just above it, while slowly rotating armature in growler. A shorted armature will cause blade to vibrate and be attracted to core. Replace a shorted armature.
b. Testing Armature for Ground
Touch armature shaft and end of a commutator bar with pair of test lamp test prods. If lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature. Replace grounded armature.
c. Testing Commutator RunOut, Refacing and Undercutting
Place armature in pair of "Vee" blocks and
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL check runout with dial indicator. Check both shaft and commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of armature. When commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, commutator should be refaced. Remove only sufficient metal to provide a smooth, even surface. After commutator is refaced, undercut insulation between bars to depth of %
2
inch with a thin, hacksaw blade, or Tool C-770. Undercut insulation square and full width of groove, and polish commutator with 000 sandpaper to remove burrs.
10. TESTING THE FIELD COILS FOR GROUND
Disconnect ground lead from the shunt field coil at terminal screw. Touch each of brush holders with a test lamp prod, while holding the other test prod against starter frame. Two of brush holders that are 180 degrees apart should cause test lamp to light, as they are intentionally grounded. The other two brush holders should not cause lamp to light when tested, as they are insulated. If these insulated brush holders cause lamp to light when tested, it indicates that the field coil is grounded. Be sure brush pigtails or leads are not touching field frame.
If field coils are grounded, inspect terminal insulation. If insulation is in good condition, test each coil separately after unsoldering connection wire. Replace grounded field coils. Test shunt field coil for continuity and for any ground, then reconnect ground lead.
11. REPLACING THE FIELD COILS
A pole shoe screwdriver should be used to remove and install field coils to prevent damage to pole shoe screws and for proper tightening.
Pole shoes that are loose may cause armature core to rub pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and damage the armature core and windings.
12. SERVICING THE BUSHINGS
Inspect armature shaft bearing surfaces and bearings for wear by placing core in vise equipped with soft jaws. Do not squeeze tightly.
Try commutator end plate and the drive end nose casting by placing them on shafts and checking for side play. Replace commutator end plate assembly if bearing is worn. Also, replace drive end bearing if it is worn. The bearing
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—11
should be well soaked in SAE 10-W Engine Oil before it is installed.
13. SERVICING THE DRIVE UNIT
To Remove drive from armature shaft, tap stop collar toward pinion and remove lock ring first.
Place drive unit on shaft and, while holding armature, rotate pinion. The drive pinion should rotate smoothly in one direction (not necessarily easily), but should not rotate in opposite direction. If drive unit does not function properly or pinion is worn or burred, replace drive unit.
14. ASSEMBLING THE STARTER
(Refer to Fig. 4.) Lubricate armature shaft and splines with 10-W oil. Assemble drive end parts on armature using a new lock ring for stop collar. Install dust gravel shield, and slide assembly into field frame concentrically on nose casting, and slide assembly into field frame until end of commutator touches brushes. While holding armature against brushes with slight pressure, push brushes up and allow them to come to rest on commutator, slide armature assembly into place. Install commutator end plate and through bolts. Make sure end nose and plate are positioned on dowel pins, and tighten through bolts.
Install solenoid plunger clevis pin and cotter key, but do not bend cotter key over until solenoid plunger travel and pinion clearance have been established. Be sure dust boot lip is over ring projection on solenoid unit.
Fig. 5—Adjusting Starter Drive Pinion Clearance
MyMopar.com
12—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
15. ADJUSTING STARTER DRIVE GEAR
(PINION) CLEARANCE (FIG. 5)
Place starter assembly in vise equipped with soft jaws and tighten vise sufficiently to hold starter. Push in on solenoid plunger link adjusting bolt (NOT THE FORK LEVER) until plunger bottoms. Measure clearance between end of pinion and pin stop with plunger seated and pinion pushed toward commutator end
(Fig. 5). The clearance should be %
2
inch, plus y
S2
inch or minus %
4
inch. Adjust for proper clearance by screwing link in or out of plunger as required. Bend cotter key and
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL test starter operation under a free running test.
16. INSTALLING THE STARTER
Before installing starter in car, lubricate armature shaft ahead of pinion with 10-W oil and be sure starter and flywheel mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil. These surfaces must be clean to make good electrical contact. Install starter from beneath car. Draw attaching bolts up tight and attach wires to solenoid switch.
Lower car to floor; install battery cable and test operation of starter for proper engine cranking.
GENERATORS
17. REMOVAL
The generator is mounted on a bracket attached to engine and held in place by two bolts through end frames and bracket. It is secured at top by a bolt through drive end frame and the belt tightening strap. Disconnect battery ground terminal and wires at generator armature and field terminals. Loosen generator adjusting strap bolt, push generator to left to relieve belt tension and remove generator attaching bolts and generator.
18. CHARGING CIRCUIT RESISTANCE TEST
(FIG. 6)
Before an output test of generator is made, charging unit should be tested for high resist-
CAR AMMETER
Fig. 6—Charging Circuit Resistance Test
56x80B
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ance due to loose connections, damaged wiring and burned relay contacts. The generator drive belt tension should also be checked and adjusted if tension is incorrect.
Connect test equipment, as shown in Figure
6. The ammeter is connected at generator and volt meter is attached to armature lead so that any voltage loss in test ammeter will not register on voltmeter. Start engine, increase engine speed until 10 amperes register on test ammeter, and read voltmeter. The voltage shown will be voltage drop of charging circuit and should not exceed .50 volt. A voltage drop that exceeds .50 volt indicates high resistance from a loose connection, burned relay contacts or a partially broken wire. Where voltage drop exceeds .50 volt, a-point-to-point check is required. Move one of voltmeter leads back along circuit toward other test lead connection, checking voltage at each terminal connection.
A sudden drop in voltage indicates that high resistance is present between that point and last point tested. Clean relay contacts, tighten loose connections and replace damaged wiring.
Adjust belt tension by measuring with a scale applied at center of longest span between pulleys. The deflection should be % inch with a 9 to 12 pound pressure. See Cooling System,
Section V, (Fig. 4.)
19. GENERATOR OUTPUT TEST
Connect equipment, as shown in Figure 6, with exception of voltmeter leads. In output test, connect voltmeter from generator armature terminal post to ground. Increase engine speed while observing the meters. A generator that is in good condition should be capable of an output in amperes that will exceed rated output slightly: approximately 15 volts at 2,300 generator r.p.m.
CAUTION
The engine MUST NOT be running for more than few seconds while making above test to avoid damage to generator. Check generator.
Check generator brushes for excessive arcing and /or bounce while high output is being delivered. A rough, burned or dirty commutator will cause arcing and bouncing at brushes.
20. DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a standard type generator (Fig.
•CTRICAL SYSTEM—13
7), remove through bolts and pull end plate from field frame. Slide armature and drive end frame assembly from generator field frame.
Place armature core in vise equipped with soft jaws, and remove pulley with Tool C-3505. Remove drive key and press end frame assembly from armature. Do not remove field coils from frame at this time.
Generators used on Air Conditioned cars
(Fig. 8) have a ball bearing at commutator end. To remove drive end frame, remove through bolts. Pull end frame free of dowel pin and rotate end frame far enough so lugs are away from terminal posts.
Support generator in arbor press on plates against end frame lugs. Press end plate from shaft while supporting generator assembly to prevent it from falling when free. Complete disassembly operation in same manner as for a standard generator.
21. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CAUTION
Do not immerse armature, field frame and field assembly, or bearing felts in cleaning solution,.
Never steam clean a generator.
Wipe above parts with a clean cloth. When cleaning ball bearings do not spin them with compressed air. Inspect field coils for burned or damaged insulation. Inspect commutator for wear and condition of soldered coil leads. An armature that has been overheated will show signs of throwing solder and will require resoldering or replacement. Inspect commutator for trueness.
Inspect bearings for wear or roughness. Replace worn or rough bearings. The bushing type bearing requires replacement of end frame assembly.
22. TESTING GENERATOR COMPONENTS a. Testing Armature for Ground
Place one probe from 110-volt test lamp on armature shaft and other probe at end of any commutator bar. If test lamp lights, it indicates a ground. Do not touch shaft bearing surface or commutator bar brush surface with test probe as this will pit surfaces. Replace grounded armatures.
MyMopar.com
14—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
MyMopar.com
FIELD COILS
WASHER
OILER
END FRAME
RETAINER
SCREW
WASHER
INSULATOR
TERMINAL SPRING
BRUSH ARM
ARMATURE
RETAINER
SNAP RING
BRUSH ARM
BEARING'
SPRING WASHER-
SCREW AND LOCKWASHER'
Fig. 8 - 1 2 Volt Generator (Air Conditioning Models)
COVER
SCREW AND
LOCKWASHER
CO
56x40A en
MyMopar.com
16—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
b. Testing Armature lor Short Circuit
Place armature in growler and, while rotating armature hold thin steel blade parallel to core and just above it. A shorted armature will cause steel blade to vibrate and be attracted to core. Replace shorted armature.
c. Testing Field Frame Assembly for Ground
Disconnect "ARM" terminal field lead from insulated brush holder. Touch a 110-volt lamp probe to generator "FIELD" terminal post, while holding other probe against good ground on field frame (be sure brush lead terminals are not touching a ground). The lamp should not light. If lamp lights, a ground exists, and it will be necessary to determine whether ground is in field coils or field terminal post.
Remove terminal post from field frame and retest from field lead to ground. If lamp lights, field coils or connecting lead is grounded. Move connecting lead between two coils away from frame. If light still burns, ground is in field coils.
Touch one of 110-volt test lamp probes to
"ARM" terminal post and field frame. If lamp
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL lights, it indicates that either terminal post or brush holder is grounded. Remove terminal post and retest brush holder. If lamp lights, brush holder is grounded. Replace defective parts. It is necessary to replace field frame if, insulated brush holder is grounded.
d. Testing Field Current Draw (Fig. 9)
Test field coils for short circuits between windings, high resistance connections, or for improper coils, by connecting test equipment, as shown in Figure 9. Adjust battery voltage to specified voltage of 10-volts with rheostat. The reading on ammeter indicates field current draw. A current reading that exceeds 1.2 to
1.3 amperes indicates that coil windings are shorted, or that wrong coils have been installed. A current reading that is less than specified indicates poor electrical connections or wrong field coils. Replace short circuited or improper coils, or re-solder defective connections.
23. SERVICING THE ARMATURE
Reface commutator if runout exceeds .0005
inch, or if it is rough, burned, or worn so that insulation between bars is too high. Undercut insulation between commutators bars to depth
GENERATOR
FIELD
FRAME
CARBON PILE RHEOSTAT
Fig. 9—Testing Field Current Draw
56x1.45
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL of V&2 inch, the full width of insulation. Metal particles are sometimes embedded in grooves following undercutting and should be removed.
24. REPLACING FIELD COILS
To replace field coils, a pole shoe screwdriver, such as Tool C-3078, should be used to prevent damage to screws and to assure proper tightening when installing coils. Pole shoes that are loose will rub armature core, causing loss of efficiency and damage to armature.
25. REPLACING BRUSHES AND SPRINGS
Brushes that are oil soaked or worn to V& length of a new brush should be replaced. Sand new generator brushes to fit contour of commutator.
With new type brush holder, it is difficult to measure spring tension (which must be done after generator is assembled). It is suggested that new springs be installed when brushes are replaced.
26. ASSEMBLING THE GENERATOR a. Standard Generators
Soak felt washers and Oilite bushing in clean engine oil. Pack ball bearing about half full with high temperature non-fiber bearing lubricant. Compress felt slightly to remove oil before installing.
(Refer to Figs. 7 and 8.) Assemble drive end parts on armature before installing it in generator. Do not grip core too tightly in vise.
Install retainer over snap ring before pressing bearing and end frame assembly on shaft. Install suitable sleeve over armature shaft so that pressure is applied to inner race when pressing bearing on shaft.
b. Accessory Equipment Generators
On generators used with air conditioning equip-
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—17
ment, install armature and drive end assembly in generator field frame. Install commutator end plate and through bolts. Place felt and shield in commutator end plate and press bearing on shaft, applying pressure to inner race.
Install shield.
c. Testing After Assembly
The generator should be tested before it is installed on car. If proper bench test equipment is not available, it is possible to motor test generator. A generator that will motor freely with specified voltage applied will, in most cases, operate properly when driven as a generator.
27. MOTORING TEST
Connect a carbon pile rheostat and test ammeter in series with positive post of 12-volt battery and generator armature terminal post.
Connect a jumper lead from field terminal post to ground. Connect a jumper lead to battery negative post and generator frame. This will cause armature to rotate as a motor. Adjust battery voltage to 10 volts. The reading on test ammeter should be 3.4 to 3.9 amperes with armature turning smoothly.
28. INSTALLATION
Place generator in position and install attaching bolts. Adjust drive belt tension at generating strap so there is a deflection of *4 inch with 9 to 12 pounds pressure. Refer to Fig. 4,
Cooling System, Section. V.
CAUTION
Be sure condenser used for radio interference is properly attached to armature ("ARM") terminal post.
REGULATORS
The current and voltage regulator is designed to operate only in 12-volt, negative ground electrical system.
29. PREPARATIONS FOR TESTING
NOTE: Do not attempt to adjust unit unless proper procedures are thoroughly understood.
Otherwise, damage to entire electrical system may result.
Disconnect battery before attempting to remove regulator assembly or to connect test equipment. Do not connect test equipment. Do not connect battery again until after regulator removal and/or installation has been completed. Do not connect battery when installing
MyMopar.com
18—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
test equipment until equipment is installed and all connections are protected against accidental ground. Failure to adopt these pre-cautions may result in damage to electrical circuit parts or wiring.
Before testing regulator assembly, make sure generator drive belt tension is correct. The battery specific gravity should be 1.210 or higher.
Check charging circuit resistance. The voltage drop of insulated side of circuit should not exceed .50 volt, with 10 amperes of current flowing. The ground side of charging circuit should also be tested.
30. NORMALIZING THE REGULATOR
TEMPERATURE
Connect a test ammeter in series between battery lead and regulator "Batt" terminal. Connect a test voltmeter from regulator "Batt" terminal to ground. Connect a variable resistance across battery. Start engine, adjust engine speed to 1,500 r.p.m., and observe test ammeter. Adjust variable resistance to obtain a load of 7 amperes. Maintain this 7 ampere load for 15 minutes to normalize regulator temperature.
REGULATOR
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
31. TESTING REGULATOR TEMPERATURE
When testing regulator, keep cover in place and make sure temperature at regulator is known.
The regulator armature hinges are temperature compensated and control will vary with temperature changes.
To measure temperature at regulator, hold an accurate Fahrenheit thermometer two inches from cover. The correct voltage setting of regulator for various temperatures with 7 amperes flowing is shown in Specifications.
32. TESTING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR
SETTING (FIG. 10)
Connect test equipment, start engine and operate at 1,500 r.p.m. Hold Fahrenheit thermometer 2 inches from regulator cover and note temperature reading. Observe voltage on test voltmeter. Compare voltage reading and temperature with those shown in Specifications.
If adjustment is required, decrease engine speed to slow idle. Remove regulator cover and bend lower hanger of voltage regulator down to increase voltage or up to decrease voltage (Fig.
11). Replace regulator cover, increase engine speed to 1,500 r.p.m., and check temperature and voltage readings.
GENERATOR
1 / 4 - O H M FIXED RESISTOR
IN SERIES
BATTERY LEAD WIRE
TO CAR AMMETER
Fig. 10—Voltage Regulator Test
56x81B
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BENDING TOOL
51 x622
Fig. 11—Adjusting Armature Spring Tension
WARNING
The regulator must be cycled by reducing engine speed low enough for cut-out relay contacts to open, before increasing engine speed to
1,500 r.p.m. when retesting after each adjustment. The regulator cover must be in place when test is made.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—19
33. TESTING THE CURRENT REGULATOR
The current regulator is temperature compensated and temperature must be considered in same manner as when testing voltage regulator. The test of current regulator would normally be made following test procedure for voltage regulator. When test of current regulator immediately follows voltage regulator test, generator should be run at its rated output of 30 amperes for 15 minutes (in addition to voltage regulator 15 minute run) before checking or adjusting current regulator. Test as follows:
Install test equipment (Fig. 12), start engine and increase speed to 2,000 r.p.m. Adjust variable resistance across battery until current settles to steady ampere output. The current regulator should limit current output as listed in Data and Specifications.
If adjustment is required, reduce engine speed to slow idle and remove cover from regulator. Bend lower current regulator spring hanger down to increase current output setting or up to decrease setting, (Fig. 13).
500 AMPERE
CARBON PILE RHEOSTAT
BATTERY LEAD WIRE
GROUND WIRE
212 VOLT
| f BAHERY
-NEGATIVE GROUND
Fig. 12—Current Regulator Test
GENERATOR
56x82B
MyMopar.com
20—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
COVER GASKET
COVER
- C O V E R FASTENING SCREWS
CUT OUT RELAY CURRENT REGULATOR
*\ \ VOLTAGE REGULATOR r~
CONTACT
POINTS
BATTERY TERMINAL ARMATURE SPRINGS
STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE
CURRENT REGULATOR
VOLTAGE REGULATOR J CUT jDUT RELAY
ADJUSTING
SCREWS
ARMATURE TERMINAL SPRING HANGER
51x618
Fig. 13—Current and Voltage Regulator
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
WARNING
The current regulator must be cycled by reducing engine speed, low enough to open cutout relay contacts after each adjustment. Retest the new setting after each adjustment with cover in place.
34. TESTING CUT-OUT RELAY (FIG. 14)
Connect test ammeter in, series between regulator "Batt" terminal and battery lead wire.
Connect variable resistance in series between regulator field terminal and generator field lead wire. Connect test voltmeter (0 to 15 — volts) from regulator "ARM" terminal to ground.
If the present test immediately follows tests of voltage and current regulators, it is not necessary to normalize regulator temperature.
If regulator assembly is cold, normalize the temperature.
Start engine and adjust speed to slow idle.
Rotate variable resistance control knob to full resistance position. Slowly rotate variable resistance control knob toward "no resistance" position, while carefully observing voltmeter.
Increase engine speed slowly. The relay contacts close when voltmeter hand jumps back slightly. The closing voltage is highest reading in volts reached before hand jumps back and should be 13 to 13.75 volts. Rotate variable resistance control knob toward full "no resistance" position. Observe test ammeter. If charging rate of 10 amperes is not indicated, increase idle speed slightly until reading is indicated.
Slowly rotate rheostat control knob toward
"full resistance" position, while observing test ammeter. The ammeter hand will drop toward zero and beyond, and suddenly return to zero.
The discharge amperes noted, will be reverse current required to open relay contacts. The relay contacts should open at 0 to 6 amperes discharge current, or 8.2 to 9.3 volts after charge of 10 amperes. If adjustment is necessary, use bending tool from Tool-kit C-828.
Bend lower spring hanger down to increase closing voltage, or bend it up to decrease.
NOTE: After each adjustment, it is essential that a complete retest be made to determine new values of closing voltage and discharge current required to open relay contacts. Regulator cover must be in place when test is made.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—21
TO STARTER SOLENOID
25 AMPERE
RBON PILE
RHEOSTAT
56x83A
35. SERVICING THE REGULATOR
CONTACT POINTS a. Inspecting and Cleaning Contacts
Fig. 14—Cut-Out Relay Test
Inspect contact points of all three units. The contact points become silver gray during normal use. File burned and oxidized points with a clean contact point file. Do not remove too much material. Never use sandpaper, emery cloth or dirty file to clean contact points, as foreign material may become embedded in contacts and result in arcing or burning.
The filing should be done parallel to length of armatures. Cross filing will form grooves and result in contacts sticking and faulty operation. After contacts are clean and smooth, wipe them with piece of clean, lintless bond tape.
FLAT GAUGE
ADJUSTING SCREW
Fig. 15—Checking Regulator Air Gaps
51x624
5 1 x 6 2 5
Fig. 16—Checking Cut-Out Relay Air Gaps
MyMopar.com
22—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Adjusting Air Gaps (Regulator)
Place .052 inch wire gauge between armature and core at contact side of stop pin (Fig. 15).
The contacts should open when armature is pressed down. Place .048 inch gauge in same position and press down on armature. The contacts should just open if air gap is properly adjusted. Adjust air gap by loosening screw and lowering or raising stationary contact.
c. Cut-Out Relay Air Gap
Place flat .031 inch gauge between lower side of armature and top of relay core as close to hinge as possible (Fig. 16). With relay armature against upper stop, .031 inch gauge should slide in freely, but .034 inch gauge should be too tight. Adjust air gap by bending upper stop up to increase air gap, or down to decrease it.
d. Cut-Out Relay Contact Clearance
Adjust contact clearance by expanding or con-
ARMATURE STOP
STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE
e
, ^
51x621
Fig. 17—Adjusting Cut-Out Relay Contact Clearance tracting bridge (Fig. 17). The proper clearance is .015 inch.
36. TESTING PRIMARY CIRCUIT
RESISTANCE (FIG. 18)
IGNITION SYSTEM
connections be clean and tight. Connect jumper wire from distributor primary terminal to
It is essential to good ignition that all primary ground. This eliminates necessity of closing
TO SWITCH SIDE OF RESISTOR
H O R N RELAY I
TO STARTER RELAY
BATTERY TERMINAL
Fig. 18—Testing Primary Circuit Resistance
56x84 B
MyMopar.com
SERVICE MANUAL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—23
contacts. Connect low reading voltmeter (with scale divisions of %
0
volt) from switch side of resistor to battery connection at relay or junction block (Fig. 18).
Turn ignition switch on and observe voltmeter. A reading in volts that exceeds .2 volt indicates a loose connection in circuit between voltmeter leads or poor contact in ignition switch. Move key off and on while noting voltmeter. A reading that varies, also indicates poor contact in switch. Clean and tighten loose connections and/or replace defective switch.
37.
a. Removal
SERVICING DISTRIBUTOR
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF DISTRIBUTOR slow idle speed. Loosen distributor lock plate and rotate distributor clockwise or counterclockwise to align proper degree mark on vibration damper with ignition timing indicator points. Tighten lock plate.
Disconnect vacuum tube and primary lead wire.
Lift off distributor cap and remove distributor hold down lock plate and distributor. (On cars equipped with power brakes remove vacuum line fitting in manifold.) b. Installation
39. CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR GOVERNOR
ADVANCE
Install distributor assembly in test bench and check governor advance as recommended by equipment manufacturer.
Make sure number one piston is at top dead center and install distributor so that rotor is pointing to number one firing position. Install lock plate and screw, but do not tighten. Rotate crankshaft to align specified degree mark on vibration damper with ignition timing indicator pointer. Rotate distributor until contacts are just opening and tighten hold down plate. Install vacuum tube, primary lead and distributor cap.
38. IGNITION TIMING (FIG. 19)
Adjust governor advance by bending outer spring lug of light spring for low speed and outer lug of heavy spring for high speed operation.
40. CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM
ADVANCE
After checking governor advance check vacuum advance. If vacuum advance is out of specifications adjust by adding or removing washers as follows: Remove retaining plug and gasket
Make certain distributor is properly installed in engine. Install timing light and start engine.
Allow engine to warm up sufficiently to enable carburetor fast idle mechanism to position for
MAKER POINTS
LOCK SCREW
CAM
ATTACH TO N O . l
SPARK PLUG
WIRE ADAPTER
-TO BATTERY
Fig. 19—Ignition Timing
(Typical View)
CHALK
MARK
57x361
STATIONARY PLATE 51x156
Fig. 20—Installing and Aligning Contacts
(Typical View)
MyMopar.com
24—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CAP ASSEMBLY
SHAFT
CONTACT SPRING
CONTACT BRUSH
(10,000 OHMS)
ROTOR
SCREW
LOCKWASHER
CONDENSER
BREAKER
POINT SET
CLIP
WASHER
FELT WASHER
BREAKER
PLATE
C A M SLEEVE WICK
SNAP RING
C A M
ANTI RATTLE
SPRING
SPACER
GOVERNOR
WEIGHT
SPRING SET
SPRING
CLIP A N D
BRACKET
THRUST WASHERS
BUSHING
PRIMARY LEAD
SPRING CLIP A N D BRACKET
SCREW
LOCKWASHER
V A C U U M CHAMBER ASSEMBLY
GOVERNOR WEIGHTS
Fig. 21-Single Point LC-1, LC-2 Distributor (Disassembled)
WASHERS
GASKET
PLUG
57x315
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL and remove washers. Check thickness of removed washers and substitute thinner washer if specified advance requires more than required vacuum. Replace with thicker washer if vacuum required to move plate is less than specified.
In some cases it may be necessary to replace spring and then, adjust to Specifications by means of various combinations of washers. The right combination of washers are installed when distributor plate is rotated to its full position with specified vacuum applied.
41. INSTALLING AND ALIGNING
CONTACTS (FIG. 20)
Remove old contacts and install new set. Adjust spring tension 17 to 20 ounces.
Align contacts to provide center contact by bending stationary contact only. Grip bracket next to contact and bend it away from breaker arm and then, bend it back to vertical. A new stationary contact is always lower than arm.
It may be necessary to repeat bending process several times to provide perfect alignment that is absolutely necessary for efficient ignition and good contact life. It may be necessary to twist stationary contact to obtain alignment. Never bend movable arm. Following alignment of contacts; readjust clearance .015 to .018 inch.
42. ADIUSTING CONTACT POINT CLEARANCE
Measure clearance with feeler gauge, dial indicator or with a dwell meter .015 to .018 inch.
New contacts should always be adjusted to .018
inch. This will allow rubbing block to wear into cam contour and still provides specified clearance when shaped.
Where dwell meter is used to check clearance it is essential to adjust clearance with feeler gauge or .dial indicator. A dwell reading that varies from specified clearance indicates that one or more of following conditions are present and must be eliminated. (1) Worn rubbing block. (2) Rubbing block not square with cam.
(3) Badly worn cam (old distributor). (4)
Worn distributor bushings. (5) Movable contact arm that has been bent. On dual breaker arm distributors clearance should be same for both sets of contacts.
43. DISASSEMBLY OF DISTRIBUTOR
(FIGS. 21 AND 22)
Remove vacuum chamber retaining screws,
COUNTERWEIGHTS
56x70A
Fig. 2 2 - D u a l Point LC-3, LY-1 Distributor
(Disassembled) vacuum lever arm spring clip retainer, washer and felt Remove vacuum unit and distributor cap clamp springs. On LC-3 and LY-1 loosen primary terminal post nut and remove primary lead. LC1-2—Push in rubber grommet and remove primary lead. Lift breaker plate assembly from distributor.
DRIVER TOOL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—25
<:AP ASSEMBLY
5 2 x 2 8 1
Fig. 23—Removing Drive Shaft Bushing
MyMopar.com
26—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
DRIVER TOOL
ADAPTOR
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOOL
5 2 x 2 8 3
Fig. 24—Installing Upper Bushings
(Typical View)
Remove cam felt and spring clip retainer from center of cam. Disengage anti-rattle spring and remove cam and yoke. Place distributor in vise and attach dial indicator to body. Move shaft to and from dial indicator with just enough force to indicate clearance.
Replace bushings and/or shaft if side play exceeds .005 inch. Drive rivet from collar and shaft, and slide shaft from distributor body.
Wash all parts in solvent, except breaker plate assembly and vacuum unit. Clean these parts with a brush moistened with solvent. Blow parts dry with compressed air.
44. REPLACING DISTRIBUTOR BODY
BUSHINGS
With distributor disassembled, place housing in arbor press and remove the bushings with driver, Tool C-3041 (Fig. 23). Soak new bushings in light engine oil for approximately 15 minutes.
Place adapter over driver with shoulder down
5 2 x 2 8 4 A
Fig. 25—Installing Intermediate Bushing
(Typical View) and slide new upper bushing over driver and down on adapter shoulder. Insert bushing and driver into bore (Fig. 24), and press bushing into position. The bushing, when properly installed, will measure .094 inch below top of bore.
Place adapter over driver with shoulder down and slide new upper bushing over driver and down on adapter shoulder. Insert bushing and driver into bore (Fig. 24), and press bushing into position. The bushing, when properly installed, will measure .094 inch below top of bore.
Invert distributor housing, reverse adaptor driver and slide bushing on driver. Insert driver and bushing into housing and press bushing in until it is flush with bottom face of distributor base (Fig. 25). Drill V
8
inch hole through upper bushing by drilling through oil wick hole.
Remove burrs from hole after drilling. Install burnishing tool into upper bushing and force it through both bushings. The burnishing tool is designed to burnish hole to proper diameter of .4995 to .5000 inch.
45. SERVICING SPARK PLUGS a. Removal
SPARK PLUGS
with Tool C-3054 and lift out tube and plug.
No gaskets are used on double rocker shaft engines.
Remove single rocker shaft engine spark plugs with Tool C-3054. For double rocker shaft engine remove ignition cable cover, air cleaner on right side and heater blower. Loosen plug b. Cleaning and Adjusting
Spark plugs that are badly oxidized or have electrodes that show considerable wear should be replaced. Clean plugs in blast type cleaner.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Be sure all compound is removed from plug.
Adjust gap with round gauge to .035 inch by bending side electrode only.
c. Installation
NOTE: Spitfire engines are equipped with % inch base plug, as shown in Figure 26, A. Fire
Power engines have a % inch base, as shown in Figure 26, B. Both plugs use an extended electrode for better efficiency and performance.
Where necessary to replace spark plugs, always use same type plug as one removed. Do not use short electrode plug in place of extended electrode or interchange % inch base plugs with
% inch base plugs.
To assure good heat transfer clean seats in head and also tube (double rocker shaft engines). Use new gaskets on plugs for single rocker shaft engines. No gaskets are used on double rocker shaft engines. When installing plugs in double rocker shaft engines, place plug in socket wrench and lower tube over plug,
(Fig. 27), before installing. Tighten plugs 32 foot-pounds torque.
46. HIGH TENSION CABLES, DISTRIBUTOR
CAP AND ROTOR a. Cables
Clean high tension cables and inspect for cracks and chafed spots. Replace damaged cables. Fit terminals to spark plug caps so they will fit snugly when installed. Terminal clips should fit tight in cap towers.
Fig. 26—Spark Plugs a. Spitfire b. Firepower
56x321A
TUBE
•CTRICAL SYSTEM—27
R51x394B
Fig. 27—Removing and Installing Spark Plugs b. Distributor Cap and Rotor
Inspect cap for cracks and clean corrosion from towers. Inspect electrodes for excessive burning. Inspect rotor for cracks and burned tip. Inspect brush spring for distortion and be sure carbon brush moves freely in cap. Push cables all the way into towers.
47. IGNITION COIL
Clean oil and dust from coil. Clean corrosion from secondary tower and push cable all the way in. Be sure primary leads are connected to proper primary terminals according to polarity markings. The coil is designed to operate with a ballast resistor. The resistor is mounted on the coil bracket and must be included with coil when making a test of primary output. Coils that are tested without resistor will appear to be defective.
Check coil for external leaks and arcing. Always make two tests when checking coil. One when coil is cold, the other after coil has warmed up. The ballast resistor and coil must be tested together for output. To check the high tension circuit, pull secondary cable out of distributor cap. Hold end of cable about *4 of an inch away from cylinder head and crank engine with engine ignition switch on. If spark jumps
*4 inch gap, coil can be considered satisfactory.
MyMopar.com
28—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
LIGHTING SYSTEM
48. HEADLIGHT AIMING AND ADJUSTMENT
The dual headlight system has two 5% inch
Sealed Beams on each side of the front of the vehicle. (Fig. 29).
Identification on the 5% inch lamps is accomplished by the numeral " 1 " molded in the top of the lens of the inner or single filament lamps and by the numeral "2" molded in the top of the lens of the outer or double filament lamps.
The inner lamps only operate on the upper beam. The outer lamps operate on both upper and lower beams. When the upper beam switch is used for highway driving, all four lamps will be in operation.
VERTICAL CENTER LINE OF VERTICAL CENTER LINE OF
LEFT INNER LAMP UNIT RIGHT INNER LAMP UNIT
CAR CENTERLINE j /
HORIZONTAL CENTER* LINE OF LAMP UNITS
25 FEET
ZJ, I
1 \ I
AIMING LINE
; / UNIT NO. 1 \ /
"Q QV-SINGLE FILAMENT-^Q Q
I 2 INCHES
57x364
Fig. 28—Adjusting Single Filament Headlight a. Headlight Aiming Using Wall or Screen
Place car on level surface with screen 25 feet ahead of headlight lenses. The screen (or wall) should be painted a light color. The horizontal line on screen should be 2 inches below center line of headlights (Fig. 28). The center vertical line should be equi-distant from two outer lines which represent vertical center of headlights.
ORIZONTAL ADJUSTING SCREW
VERTICAL
ADJUSTING
SCREW b. Headlamp—Horizontal Alignment
Car should be on a level floor, directly facing the screen, 25 feet from the headlight lenses.
Locate the center line of the car with the center vertical line of the screen. By measuring from the floor to the center of the head lamps determine the horizontal center line of the lamps. Transfer this measurement to the screen; then, locate the horizontal aiming line two (2) inches below the head lamp horizontal center line (See Fig. 28).
^ VERTICAL
ADJUSTIN
SCREWS
Fig. 29—Adjusting Dual Headlight
VERTICAL CENTER LINE OF VERTICAL CENTER LINE OF
LEFT OUTER LAMP UNIT RIGHT OUTER LAMP UNIT
CAR CENTERLINE
HORIZONTAL
CENTER LINE
OF LAMP UNITS c. Vertical Alignment
It will be necessary to determine vertical center lines of both inner and outer head lamps from the center of the car. Alignment should be made on the inner lamp on high beam as in
Figure 28 (block off outer lamps). On low beam, adjust the outer lamp units in accordance with the low beam pattern as shown in
Figure 30. Adjustment is obtained by screws at top and sides of headlights (Fig. 29).
57x365
Fig. 30—Adjusting Double Filament Headlight
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL d. Tolerances (No. 1 units)
(a) A vertical tolerance of it 2" will be tolerated.
(b) A horizontal tolerance of =fc 6" will be tolerated.
The lower beam of the No. 2 unit will be aimed so that the top edge of the high intensity portion of the pattern is aimed at the level of the lamp center and the left edge of the high intensity portion of the pattern is aimed straight ahead.
e. Tolerances (No. 2 unit)
(a) A vertical tolerance of =fc 2" will be tolerated.
(b) A horizontal tolerance of 6" to the right will be tolerated.
Upon aiming the lower beam of the No. 2 unit, the upper beam of the No. 2 unit will be automatically aimed.
58x216
Fig. 31-Headhght Aiming Tool Adapters
HORIZONTAL A I M I N G CORD
t $ t • ( * i ; t
Fig. 32-Aiming Outer Headlights
Fig. 33—Aiming Inner Headlights
58x215
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—29
L Adjusting Headlights Using Tool C-3552
Headlight may be adjusted by using Tool C-
3552. Refer to Figs. 31, 32 and 33. Use aiming tool according to manufacturers recommendations.
49. TESTING VOLTAGE AT HEADLIGHTS
One of factors affecting lighting efficiency is loss of voltage to light bulbs due to high resistance in circuit. Headlight voltage must be measured with lights burning and battery in fully-charged condition.
Remove headlight rim and, with Sealed-Beam unit partially removed from its mounting seat, attach leads of reliable voltmeter to prongs of
Sealed-Beam unit while it is still inserted in connector socket. With Sealed-Beam unit in its correct position, top prong supplies current for low (traffic) beam. One of the side prongs supplies current for high beam and the other is ground connection.
With only lights burning, engine warmed up and running at speed equivalent to car speed of about 20 m.p.h., voltage at headlights should be not less than 13.25 volts, or more than 14.5
volts (with battery and generator at room temperature, approximately 70 degrees F.). If voltage is low at either headlight socket (with only standard equipment in the circuit), proceed as follows:
Test voltage output of battery which should be 12 to 12.5 volts. Clean and tighten battery terminals and ground cable. Check wires and connections to all lights, and check main headlight switch and dimmer switch for high resistance. When voltmeter is placed between ground and input side of switch and then between ground and output side of switch (with lights burning), difference in readings will represent the voltage drop in switch. The same method may be used in checking voltage drop in wires by taking reading at each end of wire.
A switch showing voltage drop of more than one-tenth of a volt, or wire showing a voltage drop of one-tenth of a volt should be replaced.
If any wire in lighting circuit has been replaced with other than standard equipment wire, it may lack capacity and cause voltage drop. The most important wire in entire primary circuit is wire that is connected from starter switch to ammeter, because it must carry full load of all branching circuits.
MyMopar.com
30—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
50. CIRCUIT BREAKERS
The Headlight circuit breaker (22i/
2
amperes) is integral with light switch, and the Windshield Wiper circuit breaker (6 amperes) is on back of wiper switch on Imperial Models and on bracket behind clock of the LC-1-2-3
Models. The Convertible Coupe Top Lift circuit breaker (25 amperes) is on top light switch.
The Rear Compartment Cigar Lighter circuit breaker is 8 amperes on Four Door Sedans and Convertible Coupes, and the window lift circuit breaker, is 20 and 30 amperes. They are located behind left front kick panel on side cowl. The Seat Lift circuit breaker (40 amperes) is behind left kick panel on side of cowl.
51. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
OF FUEL GAUGES
The fuel gauge system incorporates an electromagnetic unit on all models. The system is connected to battery through ignition switch. The gauges operate only when ignition switch is in
"Accessory" or "ON" position (Fig. 34).
A single wire connects electro-magnet and tank unit, and the tank unit case is grounded.
As fuel in tank moves from "full" to "empty", a change in magnetic field surrounding variable field magnet (Fig. 34) takes place. This change in the magnetic field causes the gauge hand indicating the amount of fuel in the tank to move from "full" to "empty".
52. TESTING THE ELECTRO-MAGNETIC
FUEL GAUGE
For following tests, ignition switch must be turned counter-clockwise to "Accessory", or extreme left hand position.
a. Testing Wire from Ignition Switch to Panel Unit
Connect one wire of test lamp to "SW" terminal on panel unit and connect other wire to a ground. If lamp lights when ignition switch is turned on, this circuit is in good condition.
b. Testing Panel and Tank Units for Ground
The panel unit and tank unit must have good grounds to operate properly. Use jumper wire to temporarily ground each unit at case. If gauge reading changes when temporary ground
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CONSTANT FIELD
(EMPTY POSITION)
POLE
SHOES
VARIABLE FIELD
(FULL POSITION)
TANK UNIT
STARTER-IGNITION SWITCH
(NOTE—FUEL GAUGE
OPERATES ONLY WHEN
IGNITION SWITCH IS
TURNED ON)
Fig. 34—Electro M a g n e t i c Fuel G a u g e Circuit is made, make sure that case of unit under test is properly grounded. Clean and tighten mounting screws of panel unit. Clean contacting surface of tank unit, and make sure retainer is tight.
c. Testing Wire Between Panel Unit and Tank Unit
Disconnect wire at both ends. Connect test lamp between "AM" terminal of ignition switch and one end of wire. If lamp lights, wire is grounded and should be repaired. If lamp does not light, ground opposite end of wire. The lamp should light; if it does not, the wire is broken and should be replaced.
IMPORTANT
To get good electrical contact at terminals, place a shake-proof type washer on terminal stud before installing wire. The prongs of washer will dig into mounting and form a good contact.
d. Testing Panel Unit and Tank Unit
If previous tests indicate that panel unit is receiving current when ignition switch is turned on, panel and tank units are properly grounded, and wire between units is in good condition, test panel unit and tank unit as follows:
Use spare tank unit that is in good condition and same type. Some types of tank units may
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL appear to be similar, but may have "reverse action" which would cause a false indication.
To use spare tank unit, disconnect wire at "GA" terminal of panel unit. Connect spare tank unit to "GA" terminal and ground case of spare tank unit with jumper wire. Move float arm of spare tank unit up and down. If panel unit registers correctly, tank unit in car is faulty and should be replaced. Remove tank unit, as shown in Figure 35. If panel unit does not register when float arm of spare tank unit is moved up and down, panel unit is faulty and should be replaced.
53. TESTING THE ELECTRO-MAGNETIC FUEL
GAUGE TANK UNIT (REMOVED)
To test tank unit, connect jumper wire from
12-volt battery to 12-volt test lamp, and connect ground side of lamp to another jumper wire leading to tank unit terminal. Connect another jumper wire from tank unit case to other side of battery. With float in "full" position, lamp should light at almost full brilliance.
When float is lowered, light in lamp should steadily decrease in brightness until it will just barely glow in a reasonably dark room.
This test will show whether or not tank unit is operating properly; but, it will not indicate exact calibration. If contact wiper does not contact wire cone resistor, the gauge will not function. In most cases of tank unit failure, unit should be replaced (Fig. 35). When installing unit in tank, do not bend float arm.
Make sure that gasket is properly positioned and tighten lock ring.
54. ELECTRIC TEMPERATURE GAUGE
The electric (or magnetic) temperature gauge consists of two units, dash unit and engine
TANK
RETAINER
TERMINAL
GAUGE UNIT
SUCTION TUBE
Fig. 35 —Removing and Installing Fuel Gauge
(Tank Unit)
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—31
VARIABLE FIELD
POLE SHOES
V
AMMETER
Fig. 36—Electric Temperature Gauge
ENGINE UNIT
53x527A unit. The gauge is connected to source of voltage through ignition switch.
a. Dash Unit
The dash unit (Fig. 36) has two magnetic poles. One of windings is connected to ignition switch and to ground. The other winding in dash unit connects to ground through engine unit.
b. Engine Unit
The engine unit changes resistance as its temperature varies causing a corresponding change in the strength of the variable field in the dash unit.
55. TESTING THE ELECTRIC TEMPERATURE
GAUGE CIRCUIT a. Test 1
Disconnect wire at engine unit and turn on ignition. The gauge hand should stay against left side stop pin.
b. Test 2
Ground wire disconnected from engine unit and turn on ignition. The gauge hand should swing across dial to right side stop pin.
c. Test Results and Corrective Measures
Item 1—If gauge hand does not stay on left hand stop pin in Test 1, wire is grounded between dash unit and engine unit or dash unit is defective. Test further by disconnecting wire at dash unit "GA" terminal and turn on ignition switch. If gauge hand now stays on left hand stop pin, replace wire. But, if gauge hand still moves, replace dash unit.
MyMopar.com
32—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Item 2—If gauge hand does not swing across dial in Test 2, there is an open circuit in wire between dash unit and engine unit, dash unit is defective, or no power is reaching dash unit.
Test further by grounding "GA" terminal on dash unit and turning on ignition switch. If gauge hand now moves, replace wire. If gauge hand still does not move, connect 12-volt test lamp from dash unit ignition terminal to ground. Turn on ignition switch. The test lamp should light. If test lamp lights, replace dash unit. But, if test lamp does not light, test wire between ignition switch and dash unit by connecting test lamp to "Accessory" terminal at ignition switch and to ground. When this is done, test lamp should light.
Item 3—If gauge hand operates correctly in
Test 1 and Test 2, but gauge does not indicate temperature changes correctly, engine unit is defective, or dash unit is not calibrated properly. Use an engine unit that is in good condition.
Then, if gauge is still not accurate, replace dash unit.
Item 4—If gauge hand is at right hand stop pin (maximum) at all times, and Test 1 and
Test 2 indicate that wiring and dash unit are in good condition, the engine unit is defective.
Install new engine unit. If gauge hand will not move, dash unit is damaged or incorrectly installed. Install unit correctly, or replace as necessary.
56. TESTING THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
Test oil pressure gauge by hooking up an accurate gauge and comparing readings. The hook up can be made by using "Tee" fitting at flexible hose connection. Warm up engine and compare readings for idle and normal driving pressures.
Be sure that oil level is checked before making this check. An oil gauge pointer that flutters is usually an indication that oil has entered oil tube connecting gauge to engine block.
The tube should have air in it to cushion pulsations of oil pump and oil relief valve. The fluttering pointer may be result of leak in oil gauge tube or due to improper installation. To correct this condition, disconnect tubing at gauge and engine block and drain out oil. Connect tubing at gauge first and then at block.
Test for possible plugging by breaking con-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL nection at gauge. Hold gauge end of line over an empty, clean container and start engine. The oil should flow at a steady rate. If it does not flow steadily, tube may be kinked or plugged.
Check y
32
inch hole in gauge tube nipple in block. If it is plugged, this hole can be cleaned with a fine pin.
If oil lines are open and gauge does not operate, small hole leading into tube may be plugged. The hole can also be cleaned out with a pin.
57. SPEEDOMETER
When speedometer fails to indicate speed or mileage, cable or housing is probably broken.
a. Speedometer Cable
Most cables are broken due to lack of lubrication, a sharp bend or kink in housing. A cable may break if speedometer head mechanism binds. If such is the case, speedometer head should be repaired or replaced before new cable or housing is installed.
A "jumpy" pointer condition (together with a sort of scraping noise) is due, in most instances, to dry or kinked speedometer cable.
The kinked cable rubs on housing and winds up, slowing down pointer. The cable then unwinds and the pointer "jumps". To check for kinks, remove cable, lay it on flat surface, and twist one end with fingers. If it turns over smoothly, the cable is not kinked. But, if part of cable flops over as it is twisted, cable is kinked and should be replaced.
b. Lubricating Speedometer Cable
The speedometer cable should be lubricated with MOPAR All-Weather Speedometer Cable
Lubricant every 10,000 miles. At the same time, put in a few drops of MOPAR Speedometer Oil on wick in speedometer head. Refer to Section
XV, "Lubrication."
Fill ferrule on upper end of housing with
MOPAR Speedometer Cable Lubricant. Insert cable in housing, starting at upper end. Turn cable around carefully while feeding it into housing. Repeat filling ferrule except for last six inches of cable. Too much lubricant at this point may cause lubricant to work into indicating head.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—33
c. Installation of Speedometer Cable
If cable sticks when it is inserted into housing and will not pass through it, interior of housing is damaged or kinked. Be sure to check housing from one end to other. Straighten sharp bends by relocating clamps or elbows.
Replace housing if it is badly kinked or broken.
Position cable and housing so that they lead into head as straight as possible.
from battery, as case may be, and does not indicate entire generator output. The current supplied for ignition, lights and accessories is automatically deducted from generator output reading. Because of this, the ammeter should never be used as an accurate check for generator current output. Ammeter should not indicate more than 10 ampere charge above 30 miles per hour, after first 30 minutes of continuous driving. If more than a 10 ampere charge is indicated with a battery specific gravity of 1,260 or higher, check voltage control regulator.
58. AMMETER
The ammeter shows only current flowing to or
SWITCHES
59. IGNITION STARTER SWITCH
(STANDARD TRANSMISSION)
The following precautions must be followed when installing accessories such as heaters, radio, spot-light, etc. Use accessory terminal only on ignition switch and not the ammeter terminal post.
a. Starter Switch (Torque-Flite Transmission
—Only)
The starter switch is mounted on the push button box and is actuated by the neutral push button.
b. Vacuum Switch is located on Engine Intake Manifold.
c. Neutral Switch is located on outside of
Torque-Flite transmission.
61. WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH
The windshield wiper switch has a 6 ampere circuit breaker for circuit protection. The armature resistor, windshield wiper, parking and battery terminals are located on outside of switch.
62. HEADLIGHT SWITCH (FIG. 37)
The headlight and panel light switches are combined into one unit, but are operated by separate controls. On all models, switch (or switches) is held in instrument panel by a threaded sleeve and hex nut. The panel light switch control encircles inner headlight switch and is indexed on its shaft by lugs in tabe plate and slots in shaft. The headlight switch knob is held on its shaft by a recessed hex screw. If a switch is unoperative or defective, replace complete unit.
60. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER
NOTE: Remove battery ground cable before removing ignition lock cylinder.
To remove ignition lockcylinder, turn ignition key clockwise to "on" position, and loosen set screw holding switch in instrument panel. Pull switch assembly out from instrument panel toward firewall far enough to allow lock cylinder locking pin to clear instrument panel. With ignition key in "on" position, use pointed punch to push in on cylinder locking pin, while pulling on cylinder. Remove ignition lock cylinder. To install lock cylinder in switch, line up locking pin with slot in switch housing.
Press in on cylinder lock assembly. Install switch in instrument panel and tighten locking screw.
58x194
Fig. 37-Headlight Switch (Rear View)
MyMopar.com
34—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
63. TURN SIGNAL SWITCH AND CIRCUIT LY-1
The turn signal circuit used on the Imperial models consists of a manual canceling switch, an automatic canceling switch, a flasher unit, a relay and the necessary connecting wires and lamps.
The manual canceling switch is of the "rocker button" or "teeter" type, with the letter "R" at the top for a right turn, and the letter "L" at the bottom for a left turn. It is located at the bottom of the row of push buttons for the Torque-Flite transmission. To operate the switch, merely push the "R" or "L" end of the rocker button. If an error has been made
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL and you wish to turn the signal off, merely press the center of the rocker button and the signal becomes inoperative.
The automatic canceling switch is mounted on the steering column, and automatically cancels the signal when the steering wheel returns to the straight-ahead position.
The flasher unit is mounted on the back of the speedometer, behind the instrument panel.
The relay is mounted at the top of the left cowl side panel. It contains the latching relays which hold the circuits closed until they are broken either by the automatic or manual canceling switches.
HORNS
Three makes of horns are used. Sparton, Auto-Lite, and Jubilee. The horn circuits are tested in the same manner for all three makes.
The tone adjustment however, is different for each type. The horn relay is electrically connected to ignition switch and does not operate when switch is in "OFF" position.
Fig. 38—Adjusting (Sparton) Horn
57x319
64. TESTING HORN CIRCUITS
When horns fail to blow, test circuit as follows.
Touch jumper wire from Relay "SW" terminal to ground. If horn blows, it is an indication that trouble is in wire from "SW" terminal to horn button, or in horn button contact ring.
If horns do not blow, connect jumper from "B" terminal to "H" terminal. If horns operate, relay is defective. If horns do not blow, trouble is in wire to horns, in horns, or in the wire from starter relay to horn relay "B" terminal.
CONTACTS
ADJUSTING SCREW
LOCK NUT
DO NOT DISTURB
THIS NUT
^52x344
Fig. 39—Adjusting (Auto-Lite) Horn
56x153
Fig. 40-Adjusting (Jubilee) Horn
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
65. SERVICING THE HORNS a. Adjusting the Sparton Horns
Pry cover from horn. Remove contact adapter, turn adjusting nut counter-clockwise (Fig. 38) until there is no vibration. Turn adjusting nut clockwise approximately % turn, or until tone has clear, mellow sound.
b. Adjusting the Auto-Lite Horns
Pry cover retaining clips up, and remove cover.
Loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw (Fig.
39) clockwise until vibration stops. Then, turn
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—35
adjusting screw back counter-clockwise, approximately % turn until tone is clear and mellow, and tighten lock nut.
c. Adjusting the Jubilee Horn (High and Low)
To adjust Jubilee horn tone, connect test ammeter between positive post of 12-volt battery and horn terminal post. Connect jumper lead from negative battery post to horn base. Observe test ammeter and rotate adjusting screw
(Fig. 40) to right or left to obtain reading of
8 or 9 amperes at 12.4 volts. Tighten adjusting screw lock nut.
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
66. VARIABLE SPEED, OFF-GLASS PARKING
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
(Refer to Figure 44). The variable speed motor is a compound wound, reversible type unit which makes possible off-glass parking feature.
The wiper also contains a Geneva Wheel in gear box for actuating off-glass parking switch, and an eccentric in connecting link at wiper crank
67. REMOVAL DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
OF VARIABLE SPEED WINDSHIELD
WIPERS (Fig. 41) a. Removal
To facilitate assembly or disassembly of eccen-
MOTOR
MOUNTING
BRACKET
BLADE RETAINER
LEFT ARM
NUTS (3)
GASKETS (3)
GASKET
GROMMET (2) RIGHT ARM>
BLADE RETAINER RIGHT PIVOT
'WASHER (2)
NUT (2)
-BOLT (2)
y "^RETAINER
WASHER
CAM
>
/ ^ BRASS WASHER
1WT.. INTERN
CAM
SCREW (3)
WASHER (3)
GROMMET (3) INNER
MOTOR MOUNTING
PLATE
GROUND STRAP
SPACER (3)
GROMMET (4) OUTER
GASKET
MOTOR ASSEMBLY
FIBER WASHER
SPRING TRIP
SPRING
SPRING WASHE
SPRIN SCREW (4)
LEFT LINK
WASHER
SPRING TRIP
FIBER WASHER
SPRING WASHER
NUT
WASHER
MOTOR CRANK
COVER
STRAP
SCREW (5)
/ CIRCUIT
y BREAKER
EEL
NUT
WASHER
LOCKWASHER
NUT (2)
WASHER (2)
GROMMET (2)
GASKET
RETAINER
BRASS WASHER
BOLT (2) pivot which automatically lengthens links making off-glass parking position possible.
MOTOR HARNE
57x546
Fig. 41-Windshield Wipers (Disassembled)
MyMopar.com
36—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
tries at the motor crank and link ends, remove windshield wiper assembly as a unit whenever wiper or links are to be serviced.
I. Cars that are not equipped with heater and defroster ducts: Disconnect the wiper deads at switch. Disconnect wiper links at pivot cranks by removing clips and brass washer. Remove three (3) nuts which hold the large wiper motor bracket to firewall. The complete unit may now be removed by moving the bracket back far enough to clear the studs and lowering unit down from under instrument panel.
NOTE: Care should be taken not to bend the links and battery should be disconnected to eliminate the possibility of shorts.
II. Cars equipped with Heater and Defroster ducts. Remove glove box and door. If car is equipped with a radio that removes from front of instrument panel, time will be saved by removing it. Disconnect wiper leads from the switch. Disconnect links from pivot cranks by removing clip and washer. While holding unit in place, remove four (4) self-tapping stud bolt assemblies from motor plate to motor bracket which is attached to firewall. The unit may now be moved horizontally towards passenger side and then down from under instrument panel. The motor bracket can be removed by taking off three attaching nuts and bringing it straight down after clearing the studs.
b. Disassembly of Windshield Wiper Link
(Fig. 41)
With motor and link assembly laying on clean bench, remove clip that holds right-hand link to crank arm. Remove bevel washers, and carefully remove link. The pivot end of link is provided with a stop to prevent wipers from going over center and locking. Remove parking cam and spring release. Remove coil spring from around pin by spreading the springs ends apart, and remove spring washer. The lefthand link is disassembled in same manner, after removing crank arm to crank lever retaining nut. To replace wiper switch or Geneva
Wheel remove switch plate.
c. Assembly of Motor Switch
Make sure gear box contains lubricant. Install switch plate. Be sure Geneva Wheel follower pin engages smoothly with top of gear.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL d. Assembly of Windshield Wiper Link
Install spring washer, with concave surface toward crank arm. Expand ends of crank pin coil spring and install on crank pin. Install spring release.
NOTE: The spring releases are identical but must be installed in accordance with the following letter code; looking directly at the crank, the spring release, and the link, have the same code letter visible.
Install parking cam so that it will index with spring release, and engage ends of spring between release and parking cam in openings at point of index. Install washer with convex surface toward cam and link assembly. Install retaining bolt and nut. Assemble right link and cam assembly to crank lever pivot in same manner, locking in place with a clip instead of retaining bolt.
e. Pivot Removal
Remove the wiper arms and blades. Remove two (2) front stud and washer bolts (on the
Imperial models the front of pivot is held in place by an exterior spanner nut, bezel, and sealing gasket). Remove the back two (2) bolts. The pivot can now be removed from inside of car.
f. Installing New Pivot
Install new gasket and pivot. The use and proper installation of Belleville Type washers and bolts is important. Hand tighten bolts.
Draw up front two nuts and washers 65 inch pounds torque, tighten back bolts, 75 inchpounds torque, to insure a good seal.
g. Installation of Windshield Wiper Motor
Bracket and Link Assembly
Install three rubber gaskets on bracket studs.
Reinstall in reverse order given for removal in preceding section. All nuts and bolts should be tightened 75 inch-pounds torque, except wiper arm is tightened 85 inch^pounds torque.
To readjust wiper arms: Loosen wiper arm nut until a definite click is head. Move arm to desired position and tighten 85 inch-pounds torque.
NOTE: All wiper arms are capable of infinite adjustment with respect to the pivot shaft.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL h. Switch Color Code
Red Lead—field lead—switch terminal F-l.
Yellow Lead—field lead—switch terminal
F-2.
Black Lead—armature lead—switch terminal
Blue Lead—Park Lead—switch terminal "P".
Heavy Lead—hot lead from battery—connect to circuit breaker.
68. PUSH PEDAL CONTROL
When the pedal is depressed, a stream of washer fluid will spray the windshield, also the windshield wipers will start to operate as long as the pedal is depressed. The electrical pedal control is standard on Models LC-3 and all Imperial Models. It is optional equipment on the
PEDAL SWITCH
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM-37
ELECTRIC WIPER MOTOR
F
2
YELLOW
A BLACK
P BLUE
MANUAL SWITCH
57x384
MANUAL SWITCH LEGEND
PARK
LOW
HIGH
B—P
A - F
2
F.-GROUND
B-A
B-F,
F
2
-GROUND
B-A
B—RESIST—F,
F
2
—GROUND
Fig. 42-Pedal Control-Electric Windshield Washer-
Wiring Diagram
LC-l-LC-2 Models. Figure 42 show the wiring diagram.
ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS
The three component parts in basic circuit are circuit breaker, motor, and switch. There is no relay, and switch carries full amperage load of motor.
The power window lift motors have an individual, built-in circuit breaker. All models, except four door special, use one 20 amp. circuit breaker on left cowl side to protect wiring to both front and rear motors. The four door special uses one 30 amp. circuit breaker for same purpose. Four switches are used to control window lifts—a master switch located on left front door, and an individual door switch for each of other doors. The individual switch feeds are brought out to circuit breaker on cowl side. The harness for right door is carried across upper firewall. The motors require no lubrication.
When operating a window, normal amperage draw is 12 to 16 amperes for all cars, except rear doors of four door Nassau, Newport and
St. Regis models which draw approximately 18 to 22 ampere. This will vary with voltage.
69. REMOVAL OF WINDOW LIFT
Disconnect battery and remove garnish molding. Remove door handle control, escutcheon plate. Remove door trim panel, arm rest bracket, and window lift control switch. Disconnect wires from motor. Remove clips from regulator pins which hold lower glass channel. On
Imperial models remove studs and rollers from regulator arms.
Raise glass manually and prop glass in up position. Raise ^lass before loosening cap screws so that it is out of working area. Remove four regulator to door attaching cap screws and pivot guide retaining pin. Lower motor and regulator assembly through opening in door.
If gear box is to be replaced, remove regulator counter-balance spring before removing unit. The counter-balance spring has approximately 360 degrees of wrap.
CAUTION
Use large pair of pliers when removing. Be sure to remove spring before disassembling gear box.
The gear box, which is replaced as an assembly, consists of worm and worm gear. The worm gear drives a pinion which is meshed with regulator sector gear. The gear box is lubricated at assembly and should not require further lubrication. Use MOPAR Lubriplate,
105 light-weight on all other moving parts.
MyMopar.com
38—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
70. INSTALLATION OF WINDOW LIFT
Place motor and regulator assembly through opening in door and insert intermediate pivot arm pin into guide inside of door shell. There is no clip. Install four regulator attaching screws, finger tight.
After installing regulator retaining screws, check to make certain that intermediate pivot arm did not slip out of guide during installation. Remove window prop and lower glass. Insert control arms into glass channel, using leather washer on each side of channel, and secure with clip. On Imperial Models, install rollers and pins in regulator arms. The control arms can be inserted into glass channel only
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL when glass is in lowered position.
Connect wires to motor and connect battery.
On Hard-Top Models—adjust regulator in slotted holes. Allowing both pins to contact glass channel when glass frame is flush with vent wing. On Sedan.—adjust regulator so that glass runs free in channel. Check glass for alignment. Connect an ammeter into electrical circuit and operate window. The ammeter reading should be constant without fluctuation as follows: Approximately 14 amperes, all models except rear doors of four-door Nassau, Newport and St. Regis models. If ammeter reading fluctuates, there is a bind in glass or in linkage.
The down stop should be adjusted so window is flush with garnish molding, and other parts.
ELECTRIC LOCKING DOOR LOCKS
The electric door lock is operated by a pushpull double acting solenoid, attached by a connecting rod to the door lock actuating lever.
By pressing the single pole double throw switch mounted on the right and left front door trim panel, a solenoid in each of the four doors is actuated, moving the lock slide member into the lock or unlock position. (Fig. 48)
All doors may be locked or unlocked either mechanically or electrically. To lock mechanically push the front door handle to the forward position and depress the rear door locking button. To lock electrically depress the switch to lock or lift upward to unlock the doors.
71. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF SOLENOID a. Removal
Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect the lock to solenoid connecting rod at the solenoid.
Disconnect wires and remove solenoid.
b. Installation
Fasten solenoid to door and connect up wires.
Connect lock connecting rod to solenoid. The front doors connecting rod is adjustable. Adjust the rod by turning the turn buckle in or out until the solenoid will just pull the locking lever into the lock. Check to make sure the solenoid will pull the lever far enough out to unlock the door. Install the trim panel.
POWER SEATS
The power seat can be moved six ways—forward, backward, upward and downward and tilt. (Refer to Fig. 43). The power seat is driven by one motor located under front seat.
The motor operates a gear drive train which supplies power through flexible cables to the slave units located in the seat track. The control switch assembly is on left side of front seat and is wired through a relay to a 40 ampere circuit breaker. This circuit breaker is located adjacent to window lift circuit breakers behind left front kick panel.
The wire from starter relay supplies power to circuit breaker. If car is also equipped with electric window lifts, power is supplied by a brass jumper parallel with electric window lift circuit breakers.
Power is supplied to relay from circuit breaker. Six wires go to switch. One used for power, two used for motor field current which also actuates relay for motor armature current.
Three wires attach to solenoids which control movement of front riser, rear riser and hor-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—39
GUIDE
SLAVE UNIT
MOTOR
WIRING
SCREW A N D WASHER
RELAY —
COUPLING
LEVER A N D SHAFT
CABLE
DRIVE UNIT
SPRING
PLATE
58x297
TUBE
SWITCH W/BEZEL-
FIUER-
Fig. 43-Power Seat Assembly (Exploded View) izontal movement. The wiring harness to motor is looped to permit up and down movement.
The wire harness should be clipped securely so wires will not be pinched when track is in extreme forward position. The tracks are replaced only as an assembly, and are not interchangeable from left to right. Tracks cannot be adjusted. The horizontal travel is five inches and horizontal plane of seat track is inclined
11 degrees. Vertical travel is 2 inches at front and 2 inches at rear. Available tilt is iy% degrees forward and 8 degrees rearward from neutral.
72. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTER a. Removal
Remove front seat cushion—four-door only, and disconnect battery. Remove control wires from switch. Remove front seat assembly. On
Hard-Top-Models—remove front seat and cushion as an assembly. Remove nuts from seat guide attaching studs and remove adjuster from car.
NOTE: Do not damage flexible tubing during removal.
b. Installation
Install adjuster and attaching nuts. Connect seat adjuster battery wire to circuit breaker in cowl. Allow loop from relay to clip on floor for horizontal travel. Install front seat assembly. Connect control wires to switch and install front seat cushion on four-door models.
58x190
Fig. 44—Removing Left Guide and Drive Assembly
MyMopar.com
40—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DRIVE
UNIT
58x191
Fig. 45—Removing Drive Assembly from Left Slave Unit
73. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
FLEXIBLE CABLES a. Removal
Remove the front seat assembly. Disconnect battery wires at motor relay. Remove retainer plate that holds right side tubes to drive assembly. Remove the left seat guide attaching studs nuts and remove the guide and drive assembly (Fig. 44). Be careful not to bend or damage right side tubes when sliding tubes out of drive assembly. Pull flexible cables from right side tubes.
Remove the bolts that hold the motor and drive assembly to the left guide bracket. Remove drive assembly with tubes from left slave unit (Fig. 45). Remove flexible cables from tubes.
b. Installation
Place the three left cable tubes into the left slave unit (Fig. 46).
(With the shortest tube on the inside and longest on the outside). Install the flexible cables in the tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the slave unit. Position drive unit on left side tubes. Make Sul*e flexible cables seat in slot in drive unit. Bolt drive unit to guide bracket.
Place the right side flexible cables in the right side tubes. Position left guide and drive assembly on the right side tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the drive assembly. Install the right side tubes retainer plate. Bolt left guide assembly to floor. Connect wire to relay and check operation of seat. (Fig. 47)
See Figures 49 through 57 for electrical wiring diagrams.
Fig. 46-lnstalling Cable Tubes in Slave Unit
Fig. 47—Seat Guide Assembly
58x20?
JNLOCK
RIGHT
FRONT DOOR
m r H T
DOOR LOCK
SWITCH
RIGHT
REAR DOOR
SOLENOID,
FEED
PINK LOCK
18
LIGHT
/1NDOW BLUE
LIFT 30 EJ\ D-4
\MPERE^ 18
3IRCUIT LIGHT
REAKER BLUE
U
LOCK
LEFT
¥
FRONT DOOR
f V
LEFT
_UJET FRONT DOOR
SOLENOID
DOOR LOCK
UNLOCK
12
ORANGE'
SWITCH
12
PINK
LEFT
REAR DOOR
SOLENOID
58x709
Fig. 48-Electric Door Locks (Imperial)
MyMopar.com
RIGHT PARKING AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
/jpj 18 YELLOW-
VjJJ 18 T A N -
RIGHT FRONT DOOR
AUTOMATIC SWITCH
RIGHT MAP LIGHT SWITCH
I LOCATED IN PUSH BUTTON BOX [
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
14 BLACK
FUEL GAUGE
18
r~
YELLOW
RIGHT REAR DOOR
AUTOMATIC SWITCH
RIGHT TAIL, STOP, AND
TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
* >
18
I
—18 —
BROWN
BLACK
16 BLACK-WHITE •
16 RED-WHITE-
RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
INDICATOR LIGHT
MAP LIGHT-
^
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LIGHT
^ ?
LEFT TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHT
>?
PUSH BUTTON GEARSHIFT
INDICATOR LIGHT.,
^°?
BATTERY
ORANGE
12 RED-WHITE-
STARTER RELAY
16 RED-WHITE
18 RED -
/fh—
18YELLOW-
18 LIGHT-GREEN-
LEFT PARKING AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
MAP LIGHT r^HL> AND SWITCH r" lul l f-Lr**FOOT DIMMER
16 SWITCH
-BLACK-
1
^^
-WHITE
STOP LIGHT
SWITCH
J3 18 PINK-
HAND BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
1
—18 YELLOW
-18 LIGHT GREEN-
-18 TAN-
LEFT FRONT
DOOR
AUTOMATIC
S W I T C H —
18 BROWN
-TURN SIGNAL FLASHER
QT\9
LUSTER
LIGHT
RIGHT
SPEEDOMETER
-LIGHT
18 LIGHT BLUE
DOME LIGHT
(4 DOOR SEDAN)
.CLOCK
LIGHT
4S-
RED
RIGHT
BACK-UP LIGHT is dp
LICENSE LIGHT
—is—eft
BLACK 4
18-OD
TURN SIGNAL
SWITCH CABLE"
CONNECTOR
D-9 D-8 D-7
YELLOW
18
BROWN
LEFT
BACK-UP LIGHT
18 LX> 18
PINK
LIGHT GREEN
-18 WHITE
*£>* - H A N D BRAKE
INDICATOR LIGHT
,18 WHITE
18 BLACK—
MANUAL LEFT ROOF RAIL SWITCH
N^
F-3
C-6 i - D-7
L-2
D-8
BODY HARNESS
CABLE CONNECTOR
^L
18
BLACK
- - 1 8 DARK GREEN ^9
LEFT TAIL, STOP
LEFT REAR DOOR
AUTOMATIC SWITCH 57x774 A
Fig. 49-tighting and Turn Signals (Chrysler) Wiring Diagram
TRUNK LIGHT
AND SWITCH
E
1
MyMopar.com
RIGHT PARKING AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
-18 YELLOW
RIGHT FRONT DOOR
AUTOMATIC SWITCH
MAP LIGHT AND SWITCH
GLOVE BOX LIGHT AND SWITCH
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
WINDSHIELD
WIPER
BROWN SWITCH
BACK-UP
LIGHT
SWITCH
PUSH BUTTON',
BOX)
RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHT
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LIGHT
LEFT TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHT
PUSH BUTTON GEARSHIFT
INDICATOR LIGHT
INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER
LIGHT
SPEEDOMETER
LIGHTS
RIGHT REAR DOOR
AUTOMATIC SWITCH
RIGHT TAIL, STOP, AND
TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
,—18 BROWN <p
DOME LIGHT
4 DOOR
SEDAN)
RIGHT
BACK-UP LIGHT
I 18 W H I T E — C p
TRUNK LIGHT
AND SWITCH
• STARTER RELAY l i
8ORANGE.
1 2
RED"-WHiTE
_ /
1 6
-*CJ BLACK
I WHITE
J^--16RED-WHITE
.18 YELLOW
\jLJ 18 LIGHT GREEN
LEFT PARKING AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
16 LIGHT GREEN
FOOT DIMMER
SWITCH
TURN
SIGNAL
RELAY
LEFT
BACK-UP LIGHT
HEADLIGHT
SWITCH
HAND BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
18 YELLOW
INDICATOR LIGHT
18 WHITE
LEFT FRONT DOOR
AUTOMATIC SWITCH
MANUAL LEFT ROOF RAIL SWITCH
BODY HARNESS/^
CABLE CONNECTOR
LEFT REAR DOOR AUTOMATIC SWIT
LEFT TAIL, STOP AND
TURN SIGNAL LIGHT
57x738A
Fig. 50— Lighting and Turn Signals (Imperial) Wiring Diagram
8 s i
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM-43
-•—GENERATOR REGULATOR
12 BLACK-WHITE
FUEL GAUGE
(MALE BLADE)
RADIO CONDENSER
-12 RED -WHITE
NEUTRAL SAFETY
SWITCH
16 B R O W N -
STARTER WHITE
RELAY
STARTER SWITCH
NEUTRAL BUTTON
PUSH BUTTON BOX
57x739A
16 DARK GREEN -
WHITE STRIPE-
REAR W I N D O W
DEFROSTER MOTOR
VACUUM SWITCH
Fig. 51— Starter, Generator, Ignition and Horns Wiring Diagram
HEATER AND DEFROSTER MOTOR
TOP UFT MOTOR
(CONVERTIBLE ONLY)
-C3 18 BLACK
REAR W I N D O W
DEFROSTER SWITCH
VARIABLE SPEED WINDSHIELD
1 6
i—16 BLUE
WIPER SWITCH / BLACK-
WHITE
STRIPE
VARIABLE SPEED I k / "
1 6 Y E U 0 W
W.NDSHIELD WIPER ^ _ P ^ - , 6 REO
12 RED-
WHITE STRIPE
IGNITION
16 BLACK
4 B BLACK
TO BATTERY
>OO|
STARTER RELAY
DARK GO
10 RED
TOP LIFT SWITCH AND 25 AMPERE S
CIRCUIT BREAKER (CONVERTIBLE ONLY)
YELLOW-
TERMINAL
BLOCK
•10 BLACK •
57x730A
Fig. 52-Windshield Wipers, Heater and Convertible Top (Chrysler) Wiring Diagram
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
44—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
-HEATER AND DEFROSTER MOTOR
16 BLACK-WHITE STRIPE
16 DARK GREEN -
WHITE STRIPE-
REAR W I N D O W
DEFROSTER MOTOR
16 BROWN-WHITE STRIPE
TOP LIFT MOTOR
(CONVERTIBLE ONLY)
REAR W I N D O W
DEFROSTER SWITCH
VARIABLE SPEED WINDSHIELD i
6
ACC
WIPER SWITCH / BLACK-
1 6 B L U E
/ WHITE
VARIABLE SPEED
WINDSHIELD WIPE
MOTOR
TO BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH I d WHITE
- 12 RED-WHITE STRIPE
4 O BLAl-R.
12 RED-
WHITE STRIPE
T O BATTERY
HEADLIGHT
SWITCH
STARTER RELAY
TOP LIFT SWITCH A N D 25 AMPERE
CIRCUIT BREAKER (CONVERTIBLE ONLY)
Fig. 53—Windshield Wipers, Heater and Convertible Top (Imperial) Wiring Diagram
57x731 A
TEMPERATURE
G A U G E
TEMPERATURE G A U G E
SENDING UNIT
fft—UP-RED 1
-BLACK-41
D O W N
_ J irVJ DnA\A/ki
B R O W N
18
BLACK"
1
POWER llh
W ANTENNA
18
LIGHT BLUE
BATTERY STARTER RELAY
12
RED-WHITE o / l G N
AMMETER
(THRU LOOPS) 12
IGNITION SWITCH
RED-WHITE
AUXILIARY
FUEL GAUGE
SENDING
UNIT
1 AMPERE
FUSE
(BORG CLOCK ONLY)
T R E A R SEAT CIGAR LIGHTER
58x711
8 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER
Fig. 54— Instruments and Accessories Wiring Diagram
MyMopar.com
RT. FRONT DOOR
W/LIFT SWITCH RIGHT REAR DOOR
OR QUARTER
W/LIFT SWITCH
RT. FRONT DOOR
W/LIFT MOTOR
RT. REAR DOOR
OR QUARTER
W/LIFT MOTOR
TO STARTER
SOLENOID OR
STARTER RELAY
1
"BAT." TERM.
•S12
W I N D O W LIFT
30 AMP. C.B.
S-12
U-4A
U-4
U-3
BLACK
BROWN
BROWN
GRAY
U-2
U-l
U
D-4
D-3
D-2
ORANGE
PINK
DK. BLUE _,
YELLOW
DK. GREEN
D-l
D
B-4
RED
VIOLET
BROWN
B-3
B-2
B-l
RED
WHITE
BLACK
YELLOW
B j TAN
SYM. ' COLOR
CIRCUIT
SIZE
4D.SED.
14
—
14
14
14
14
_
14
12
—
—
14
14
14
14
14
12
12
12
12
14
12
—
—
12
14
14
14
12
14
12
14
14
14
14
14
—
12
12
14
12
14
14
14
12
14
—
12
12
14
SIZE
4D.SUB.
12
SIZE
4D.H.T.
14
14
12
14
12
14
—
12
_
_
14
14
—
14
14
12
12
SIZE
2D.H.T.
CV. CPE
W/LIFT MASTER SWITCH
LF.
LEFT FRONT DOOR
LT. FRT.
DOOR
W/LIFT
MOTOR
LEFT REAR DOOR
OR QUARTER
W/LIFT SWITCH
UP
TAILGATE
LOCK SW.
TAIL GATE
W/LIFT SW.
FEED
-o-
DOWN I
D
OWN
REAR TAIL GATE
W/LIFT MOTOR
LT. REAR DOOR
OR QUARTER
W/LIFT MOTOR
REAR TAIL GATE
CUTOUT SWITCH
FOR UP CIRCUIT
Fig. 55-Electric Window Lifts Wiring Diagram
58x212
MyMopar.com
Cn
I
CO
1
46—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FOUR DOOR SEDAN SPECIAL FOUR DOOR SEDAN
BATTERY
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
MANUAL ROOF
RAIL SWITCH
MAP LAMP
WITH MANUAL
INTEGRAL
SWITCH s "A" POST
ENTRALX AUTOMATIC
DOME DOOR
LAMP SWITCH
"B" POST 4
AUTOMATIC *
DOOR SWITCH
f "B" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
MANUAL
ROOF RAIL
SWITCH
"B" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
BATTERY
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
REAR CENTER
DOME LAMP
MAP LAMP
WITH MANUAL
INTEGRAL SWITCH
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
"B" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
CONVERTIBLE COUPE FOUR DOOR SEDAN SPECIAL CLUB COUPE
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
BATTERY
DOOR SWITCH
MAP LAMP
WITH INTEGRAL
MANUAL
SWITCH
"A" POST
BATTERY
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
MANUAL!
ROOF RAIL
SWITCH
58x712
MAP LAMP
WITH
INTEGRAL
SWITCH
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
REAR CENTER
DOME LAMP
MANUAL
SWITCH
BEHIND
'LEFT DOOR
POCKET PANEL
LAMPS
"A" POST'
AUTOMATIC!
DOOR
SWITCH
MAP LAMP
BATTERY WITH MANUAL
"A" POST -4—lililil— r
, INTEGRAL
AUTOMATIC
I DOOR SWITCH
jip®isv
WITCH i " A " POST
I AUTOMATIC
DOOR
i—
"B" POST j SWITCH
"B" POST
AUTOMATIC
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
DOOR SWITCH
CENTER DOME LAMP
WITH INTEGRAL MANUAL SWITCH
Fig. 56—Interior Lamps and Switches Wiring Diagram (Chrysler)
FOUR DOOR SEDAN SUBURBAN SPECIAL FOUR DOOR SEDAN
MAP LAMP
WITH
INTEGRAL
MANUAL
SWITCH
BATTERY
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
O jsgn MAP
^PLAMP
G L O V E k
BOX I }
SWITCH i
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC i
DOOR
SWITCH
I MAP LAMP
WITH
•INTEGRAL
'MANUAL
SWITCH
"A" POST
BATTERY
AUTOMATIC
DOOR
SWITCH
GLOVED
BOX
SWITCH
MAP
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR
SWITCH
SPECIAL CLUB COUPE
MAP LAMP
WITH i INTEGRAL
MANUAL
SWITCH
"A" POST
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
MAP
LAMP
GLOVE/
BOX
SWITCH ..
A
-
AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
CENTRAL DOME LAMP
WITH MANUAL
INTEGRAL SWITCH
ROOF RAIL
LAMP WITH
INTEGRAL
MANUAL
SWITCH
ROOF RAIL
LAMP
ROOF RAIL LAMPS WITH
INTEGRAL MANUAL SWITCH
IN LEFT LAMP
Fig. 57—Interior Lamps and Switches Wiring Diagram (Imperial)
58x713
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM-^17
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
BATTERIES
c. Reseal joints between cell covers and case.
74. BATTERY DISCHARGED a. Charge battery by slow charging. Test circuit resistance and regulator.
b. Investigate use of accessories and type of driving car is subjected to.
c. Check for short circuits.
75. BATTERY DOES NOT RETAIN WATER a. Check voltage regulator.
b. Check for broken case.
76. BATTERY DOES NOT TAKE CHARGE a. Add water to adjust electrolite to proper level.
b. Test battery capacity after 24 hours charge at four amperes.
c. Dissolve sulphated condition by charging at one ampere per positive plate per cell (or for 24 hours at four amperes) until charging rate does not rise for two successive readings taken at hourly intervals.
STARTERS
77. STARTER RELAY DOES NOT CLOSE
Check all relay, ignition-starter switch connections and neutral.
a. Replace open circuit wire between starter relay arm (or ground) terminal post and neutral switch (T.F. trans, only).
b. Replace open circuit wire between ignition-starter switch and ignition terminal on starter relay.
c. Replace neutral switch (TF trans, only).
d. Replace starter relay.
e. Replace ignition-starter switch.
f. Recharge battery.
e. Check for broken lead or loose soldered connection inside solenoid switch cover.
f. Replace solenoid.
g. Replace starter relay.
79. SOLENOID PLUNGER VIBRATES BACK
AND FORTH WHEN SWITCH IS ENGAGED a. Recharge battery. Replace defective battery. Clean and tighten cable connections.
b. Check for loose connections at relay, ignition starter switch and solenoid.
c. Check and repair any broken leads or soldered connections inside solenoid switch cover.
d. Replace solenoid.
78. RELAY OPERATES BUT SOLENOID
DOES NOT a. Replace open circuit wire between starterrelay solenoid terminal and solenoid actuating terminal post.
b. Check and clean up solenoid switch contacts.
c. Clean and tighten terminal connections on terminal bus bar between solenoid and starter fields.
d. Turn and under cut armature. Replace brushes.
80. STARTER OPERATES BUT PLUNGER DOES
NOT RETURN WHEN IGNITION-STARTER
SWITCH IS RELEASED a. Replace broken solenoid plunger return.
b. Check ignition starter switch opening.
c. Replace solenoid.
d. Adjust pinion clearance.
81. SOLENOID OPERATES BUT STARTER
DOES NOT a. Recharge or replace battery.
MyMopar.com
48—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
b. Clean and tighten cable connections.
c. Check solenoid switch for closing (contacts jumper).
d. Adjust pinion clearance with plunger adjusting screw, with starter on bench.
e. Repair starter.
82. STARTER FAILS AND LIGHTS DIM
a. Recharge or replace battery.
b. Clean and tighten cable connections.
c. Check brush pigtails and coil leads for grounds.
d. Replace grounded starter fields.
e. Check for armature rubbing on field poles.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
83. STARTER ARMATURE ROTATES BUT
PINION DOES NOT ENGAGE
a. Check arm shaft for rusting.
b. Replace starter drive and adjust pinion clearance.
c. Check solenoid plunger linkage.
d. Replace engine flywheel ring gear if bad.
84. STARTER PINION JAMS IN RING GEAR a. Replace drive. Replace flywheel ring gear.
Tighten starter mounting bolts securely when replacing starter.
b. Armature shaft bent. Replace armature and check pinion and flywheel teeth.
GENERATORS
85. GENERATOR FAILS TO CHARGE a. Ground generator field terminal with engine running at 1500 R.P.M. If it still fails to charge, remove generator and repair. If generator charges with field grounded, remove regulator, clean and adjust contacts or replace regulator.
b. Test for open circuit in field lead from generator to regulator.
c. Test for grounded armature lead from generator to regulator.
b. Check for grounded field lead between generator and regulator or for grounded field terminal post by disconnecting field lead at regulator with engine running at 1200 R.P.M.
This should cause generator to quit charging if it does, regulator field circuit is grounded or contacts stuck. If charge stops with field open, disconnect field lead at generator. If charge stops, field lead is grounded, if not, remove generator and repair ground in generator field terminal post or field lead to post.
86. LOW UNSTEADY CHARGING RATE a. Adjust or replace drive belt.
b. Test charging circuit resistance, cleaning and tightening all loose connections.
c. Inspect generator brushes and commutator for wear, grease or commutator out of round.
d. Test car ammeter.
88. NOISY GENERATOR a. Check pulley alignment.
b. Check for electrical noise by grounding armature terminal; if noise stops remove generator and inspect commutator and brushes.
c. Inspect bearing for wear or roughness.
d. Tighten pole shoe screws.
87. EXCESSIVE CHARGING RATE a. Check regulator contacts for sticking and for high setting of voltage regulator.
89. PREMATURE FAILURE OF ARMATURE a. Test regulator.
b. Test for shorted cell in battery by using capacity test.
REGULATORS
90. REGULATOR CONTACTS OXIDIZED
a. Check resistance of ground circuit.
b. Check field coils for short circuit.
c. Check for misalignment or improper air gap adjustment of regulator contacts.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
91. REGULATOR CONTACTS PITTED a. File contacts. Reset air gaps and adjust regulator setting to specifications.
b. Check battery for proper ground polarity
(negative post grounded). Clean and adjust contacts and reset output to specifications.
c. Wrong regulator polarity. Replace regulator.
92. BURNED COIL WINDINGS a. Replace regulator after checking for high voltage regulator setting.
b. Check for grounded field circuit. Repair ground and replace regulator.
93. BURNED CONTACT ARM a. Replace regulator and connect wires to
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—49
proper terminal.
b. Never short between the battery lead and the regulator field terminal. If this is done accidentally clean contacts and adjust regulator.
94. REGULATOR CONTACTS STUCK a. Reset air gaps and adjust settings. Replace regulator if contacts are badly burned or pitted.
b. Check battery polarity (negative ground).
Remove field lead from regulator and touch battery lead to polarize generator after battery is properly installed.
c. Install regulator of proper polarity. A negative ground regulator has NEG stamped on base.
95. BURNED CONTACTS
IGNITION
c. Check carburetor for rich mixture.
d. Adjust gaps to .035 inch.
a. File contacts that are not excessively burned. Align contacts and adjust gap to specifications. Adjust breaker arm spring tension.
98. BURNED SPARK PLUGS b. Replace contacts that are badly burned.
Check for presence of oil or grease on and around contacts; eliminate cause if present.
Check voltage regulator. Check condenser.
98. PITTED CONTACTS a. Replace condenser with one of proper capacity.
a. Check for proper heat range.
b. Tighten plugs to specified torque, using new gaskets (engines so equipped).
c. Check voltage regulator setting.
d. Check carburetor for lean mixture.
e. Adjust ignition timing.
f. Check for leaking head gasket or cracked cylinder head.
97. FOULED SPARK PLUGS a. Check plugs for proper heat range.
b. Eliminate excessive oil consumption.
99. DISTRIBUTOR CAP BLOWS OFF a. Check for ruptured diaphragm in vacuum advance unit.
100. LIGHTS BURN OUT a. Replace damaged bulbs after adjusting voltage regulator.
101. LIGHTS DO NOT LIGHT
LIGHTING
a. Test voltage at headlights and replace bulbs or repair wiring.
b. Replace or repair dimmer or light switch.
c. Recharge or replace battery and test generator and voltage regulator.
d. Test voltage drop of circuit. Clean and tighten all loose connections.
MyMopar.com
50—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
102. LIGHTS FLICKER a. Test voltage drop of circuit. Clean and tighten all loose connections.
b. Test battery. Recharge or replace battery.
Test voltage regulator.
c. Check bulb contacts for corrosion or being loose. Clean and tighten ground connections.
103. EXCESSIVE FLARE AT ACCELERATION a. Recharge or replace battery.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Adjust voltage regulator.
c. Clean and tighten engine to body ground connection.
104. INTERMITTENT OPERATION
OF HEADLIGHTS a. Check circuit breaker.
b. Test voltage drop of circuit. Clean and tighten all loose connections. Replace defective dimmer or headlight switch.
FUEL GAUGE
105. GAUGE POINTER STICKS
AT EMPTY MARK a. Clean paint from indicator pointer where it contacts empty stop.
106. GAUGE POINTER DOES NOT MOVE TO
FULL MARK (FULL TANK) a. Clean and tighten loose connections, in fuel system electrical circuit.
b. Check tank unit for good ground connection.
c. Check tank to frame ground connection.
d. Check tank unit for open coil. Replace tank unit.
e. Replace dash unit.
107. GAUGE POINTER FUCKERS a. Clean and tighten all loose connections
(including ground).
b. Check tank unit arm contact to rheostat.
108. GAUGE POINTER STAYS AT FULL a. Check both dash and tank units for short circuit.
HORNS
109. HORNS DO NOT BLOW a. Short from relay "SW" terminal to ground (IGN SW ON). If horns now blow repair wiring from "SW" terminal to horn contact ring.
b. Connect jumper relay IGN. terminal to B terminal and depress button. If horn blows repair wiring IGN. terminal to IGN. switch.
c. If horns do not blow after above tests, connect jumper from "B" to "H" terminal. If horns blow replace relay. If horns do not blow check wiring from battery to B terminal and
H terminal to horn.
d. If horns still do not blow after tests above, repair or replace horns.
110. HORNS BLOW CONTINUOUSLY a. Disconnect wire from relay "SW" terminal. If horns stop blowing check for ground in wiring from "SW" terminal to horn button, contact plate. If horns still blow when wire is removed from "SW" terminal, replace relay.
b. Check for grounded horn button.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—51
111. WIPERS OPERATE SLOWLY a. Replace brushes. Turn and undercut armature commutator.
b. Check for loose connections in ground and wiring circuit. Clean and tighten.
c. Free up and lubricate pivot shaft.
d. Replace control switch.
e. Replace motor.
112. WIPERS FAIL TO OPERATE a. Free up and lubricate linkage.
b. Test control switch and wire from motor to switch by connecting jumper wire from ammeter to motor, and across switch terminals.
(Refer to Figure 49).
WIPERS
c. Remove motor a.nd test on bench.
113. WIPER BLADES NOT PARKING
OFF GLASS a. Repair or replace link spring.
b. Adjust parking switch plate on motor gear box.
114. BLADES CHATTER a. Replace arm.
b. Install blades that have proper pressure.
115. MOTOR WILL NOT PARK a. Check wiring and panel switch.
b. Install new parking switch.
c. Replace motor.
POWER WINDOWS
116. WINDOW DOES NOT OPERATE FROM
MASTER SWITCH, BUT WILL FROM
DOOR SWITCH a. Replace wire between circuit breaker and master control switch.
b. Replace master control switch.
c. Replace broken wire at door containing master switch group.
117. WINDOW DOES NOT OPERATE FROM
EITHER MASTER OR INDIVIDUAL a. Replace burned out motor and check for grounded sticking or defective switch.
b. Check voltage of circuit for broken wiring between circuit breaker and motor terminals.
c Replace circuit breaker if voltage is present at terminal opposite battery feed, if all windows do not operate.
d. Check motor ground wire for good ground.
e. Motor is thermal protected and will not operate when warm, allow to cool and recheck.
118. WINDOW OPERATES IN ONE DIRECTION
ONLY FROM EITHER MASTER OR
DOOR SWITCH a. Check switch.
b. Check connections at motor junction block and leads from junction block to motor. Replace motor if connections at junction are clean and tight.
119. CIRCUIT BREAKER "CLICK" ON AND
OFF CONTINUOUSLY AND WINDOW
DOES NOT OPERATE a. Check for ground between circuit breaker and switches by disconnecting one wire at a time from circuit breaker to locate circuit containing ground. Replace wire or grounded switch.
120. WINDOW OPERATES IN WRONG
DIRECTION a. Reverse switch lead to switch involved.
MyMopar.com
52—ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TURN SIGNAL SWITCHES
121. LIGHTS WON'T FLASH a. Test the manual switch. Turn the ignition switch on. To check the right turn signal push the manual switch for a right turn and connect the test lamp between the relay No. 5 terminal and ground. If the test light flashes but the right turn lamps don't flash, it indicates the bulbs or wiring between the lamps and relay is faulty and should be repaired or replaced.
If the test light doesn't flash, test the flasher.
The left turn signal is checked in the same manner except that the test light is connected between the relay No. 6 terminal and ground.
b. Test the flasher. Connect the test light between the relay No. 9 terminal and ground.
If the test light fails to light, it indicates the wiring between the flasher and relay, or the flasher or relay is faulty and should be replaced.
c. Test the relay. Connect the test light between the relay No. 7 terminal and ground. If the test light fails to light, it indicates the wiring from the fuel gauge to the relay, or the relay is faulty and should be replaced.
POWER SEATS
122. ENTIRE UNIT INOPERATIVE
Remove all wires from seat switch and connect together as shown for the six various control operations, if operation is normal, by connecting wires as shown. Replace switch.
For Forward Horizontal
[Red
Connects White
[Green
For Rearward Horizontal
[Red
Connects Blue
[Green
123. MOTOR INOPERATIVE
Check red wire at relay with test light. If testlight does not light, check for continuity in number 10 red feed wire, faulty circuit breaker or poor connection between circuit breaker and starter relay. If test light lights, connect number 10 red feed wire with red and black or red and green wires from motor. If motor rujis, relay was faulty.
124. SEAT INOPERATIVE (MOTOR RUNS)
Jump wire from number 10 feed wire to each solenoid terminal on clutch assembly. Solenoids should each "click" as jumper is connected. If
For Forward Tilt
[Red
Connect^ White
(Yellow
For Rearward Tilt
[Red
Connect^ White
[Brown
For Strai ghtUp
[Red
Connect] White
] Yellow
[Brown
For Straight Down
Red
Connect Blue
Yellow
Brown solenoid does not click: a. Check wire in harness for open circuit.
Repair.
b. Possible seized solenoid armature in coil.
Replace coil.
c. Possible burned-out solenoid. Replace solenoid.
125. SEAT INOPERATIVE (MOTOR RUNS
AND SOLENOIDS CLICK)
Check drive unit for stripped or broken gear.
Replace drive unit if necessary.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
126. SLAVE UNIT INOPERATIVE (MOTOR,
SOLENOIDS AND DRIVE UNIT O. K.)
Check for broken drive cable. Replace as necessary.
127. EXCESSIVE FREEPLAY IN UNIT (SEAT
HAS ROCKING MOTION EXCESSIVE
MOVEMENT BETWEEN SLIDE AND
BASE OF TRACK ASSEMBLY)
This condition is possibly due to roller (A),
Fig. 1) being out of position.
a. Remove power seat assembly from vehicle.
b. Remove seat drive tubes from slave unit.
CAUTION
Do not run motor with drive cables and tubes disassembled or unit will be placed out of synchronization.
c. Remove seat support ( B ) .
d. Remove seat slave unit from seat track slide (C).
e. Remove horizontal stops located on slide at (D).
f. Separate seat slice (C) from base (N) by pressing slide rearward which will allow rollers (A) to jump retaining rivets (E F G
H ) , thereby separating slide from base.
g. Remove rivet (F) and replace with %
6
—
18 x 1/2" cap screw (1) as shown to retain in proper position. To reassemble, reverse the above sequence.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM—53
NOTE: In reassembly, a frayed drive cable may occur. Such a cable may be repaired by applying a light coating of solder and then grinding to cable size.
128. SEAT TRACK EXCESSIVELY LOOSE
(CAUSED BY LOOSE RIVET JOINTS)
To correct: a. Disassemble upper track seat support (B) by removing cotter keys and pins.
b. Remove seat support and tighten all riveted joints (J) by peening with a ball peen hammer.
129. LOOSE FRONT LEVERS
To correct: a. Arc weld front levers (K) to prevent movement between the two sections comprising the front lever assembly as shown.
130. SEAT CHUCK FORE AND AFT (CAUSED
BY LOOSE HORIZONTAL TRACK
SUPPORT TO LOWER TRACK BASE
To correct: a. Remove seat track assembly from vehicle and arc weld as shown (L).
b. Tighten rack attaching pins (M) by arc welding.
c. Check for loose horizontal rack in slave unit gear train. If loose, replace slave unit.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—1
Section VII
ENGINE
CONTENTS
Page
Engine Tune-up 10
Removal and Installation of Engine Assembly 10
Removal and Installation of Cylinder Heads 11
Removal and Installation of Rocker Arms and Shaft Assembly 13
Removal and Installation of Valves and Valve Springs 14
Removal and Installation of Valve Guides 15
Testing Valve S p r i n g s . . . . . . 16
Hydraulic Tappets 17
Checking Valve Timing... > 19
Removal and Installation of Timing Gears and Chain 20
Camshaft Removal 23
Distributor (Basic) Timing 23
Removal and Installation of Camshaft Bearings 24
Cylinder Block 24
Connecting Rods 26
Crankshaft 27
Removal and Installation of Oil Pan 29
Oil Pump 29
Removal and Installation of Oil Filter . 31
Service Diagnosis 32
MyMopar.com
2—ENGINE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section VII
ENGINE
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
LC-l and 2 LC-3 and LY-1
ENGINE
Type
Number of Cylinders :
Bore
Stroke
Piston Displacement
Compression Ratio
Compression Pressure at 150 rpm (plugs removed) Wide Open Throttle
Maximum Variation Between Cylinders
(any one engine)
Firing Order
V90°
8
3.94"
3.63"
354 cu. in.
10.0 to 1
150 to 200 lbs.
20 lbs.
l_8-4-3-6-5-7-2
V90°
8
4.00"
3.90"
392 cu. in.
10.0 to 1
150 to 200 lbs.
20 lbs.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
CYLINDER NUMBERING—From Front of Engine
Left Bank
Right Bank
1-3-5-7
2-4-6-8
1-3-5-7
2-4-6-8
CRANKSHAFT
Type
Bearings
Journal Diameter
Crank Pin Diameter
Maximum Out-of-Round Permissible
Number Main Bearings
Diameter Clearance (Desired)
End Play
•C75-1 (2 Barrel Carburetor)
C75-2 (4 Barrel Carburetor)
Thrust Taken by
Finish at Rear Seal Surface
Interchangeability of Bearings
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
Type
Length (Center to Center)
Weight (less bearings) (shells)
Fully Counter-Balanced
Steel Backed Babbitt
2.4995 to 2.5005"
2.249 to 2.250"
.001"
5
.005 to .0015"
.002" to .007"
Fully Counter-Balanced
Steel Backed Babbitt
2.687 to 2.688"
2.374 to 2.375"
.001"
5
.005 to .0015"
.002" to .007"
No. 3 Main Bearing
Diagonal Knurling
Upper and Lower Nos. 1, 2, 4
Upper and Lower No. 3
Upper and Lower No. 5
Not Interchangeable
No. 3 Main Bearing
Diagonal Knurling
Upper and Lower Nos. 1, 2,
Upper and Lower No. 3
Upper and Lower No. 5
Not Interchangeable
MAIN BEARINGS (service) All Available in
Standard and the Following Undersizes....
.001, .002, .003, .010, .012' .001, .002, .003, .010, .012"
Drop Forged " I " Beam
6.625"
25.2 oz.
Drop Forged " I " Beam
6.951"
27.6 oz.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE (Cont'd)
ENGINE-3
Bearings
Diameter and Length
Diametral Clearance Desired
Maximum Allowable Before
Reconditioning. . .
Side Clearance
Bearings for Service
CONNECTING ROD BUSHING
Type
Number of Bearings
Diameter and Length
Interchangeability
Clearance
CAMSHAFT
Drive
Bearings
Number
Thrust Taken By
End Play
Maximum Allowable Before
Reconditioning
Diametral Clearance
Maximum Allowable Before
Reconditioning
CAMSHAFT BEARING JOURNALS
Diameter and Length
No. 1
Nos. 2, 3 and 4
No. 5
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
Diameter and Length (after reaming)
No. 1
Nos. 2, 3 and 4
No. 5
TIMING CHAIN
Adjustment
Number of Links
Pitch
Width
LC-1 and 2 LC-3 and LY-1
Steel-Backed Babbitt
2.2507 to 2.2512" x
2
%"
.0005 to .0015"
.0025
;/
.006 to .014'
Standard .001, .002, .003,
.010, .012" US
Steel-Backed Babbitt
2.375 x
2
%"
.0005 to .0015"
.0025"
.006 to .014"
Standard .001, .002, .003,
.010, .012" US
Steel-Backed Bronze
8
.9843 to .9846 x l^"
All
.0001 to .0004" Selective
Steel-Backed Bronze
8
.9843 to .9846 x \\i"
All
.0001 to .0004" Selective
Chain
Steel-Backed Babbitt
5
Thrust Plate
.002 to .006"
.010"
.001 to .003"
.005"
Chain
Steel-Backed Babbitt
5
Thrust Plate
.002 to .006"
.010"
.001 to .003"
.005"
1.998 to 1.999 x %"
1.998 to 1.999 x %"
1.4355 to 1.4365x2%
2.000
2.000
1.4375
to 2.001 x 1% to 2.001 x % " to 1.4385 x
2
%"
None
68
.375"
1.998 to 1.999 x
1.998 to 1.999 x
1.4355 to 1.4365 x
2.000
2.000
1.4375
to 2.001 x to 2.001 x to 1.4385 x
None
68
.375"
MyMopar.com
4—ENGINE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE (Cont'd)
LG-1 and 2 LC-3 and LY-1
TAPPETS
Type
Clearance in Block
Body Diameter
Clearance Between Valve Stem Rocker
Arm or Tappet
PISTONS
Type
Material
Land Clearance (diametral)
Clearance at Skirt
Weight (Std. through .060" oversize)
Piston Length (overall)
Ring Groove Depth
No. 1
No. 2
No. 3
Pistons for Service
Hydraulic
.0005 to .0015"
.9040 to .9045"
Dry Lash
.060 to .210"
Hydraulic
.0005 to .0015"
.9040 to .9045"
Dry Lash
.060 to .210"
Horizontal Slot w/steel strut
Aluminum Alloy Tin Coated
.028 to .033" from Bottom of Skirt
.0005 to .0015"
646 gm.
3.99 in.
Horizontal Slot w/steel strut
Aluminum Alloy Tin Coated
.029 to .034*
\y<i' from Bottom of Skirt
.0005 to .0015"
700 gm.
4 in.
.200"
.200"
.194"
Std. .005, .020, .040,
.060" OS
.209"
.209"
.201"
Std. .005, .020, .040" OS
PISTON PINS
Type
Diameter and Length
Clearance in Piston (thumb press at
70° F.)
End Play
Clearance in Rod (selective)
Piston Pins for Service
Direction Offset in Piston
PISTON RINGS
Number of Rings per Piston.
Compression
Oil
Width of Rings—
(Compression)
(Oil)
Piston Ring Gaps (all)
RING SIDE CLEARANCE
(Compression)
Upper
Full Floating
.9841 to .9843 x
3.140 to 3.150"
.0000 to .0005"
.004 to .026"
.0001 to .0004"
Std., .003, .008" OS
Toward Right Side of Engine
3
2
1
.0775 to .0780"
.1860 to .1865"
.010 to .020"
.002 to .0035'
Full Floating
.9841 to .9843 x
3.140 to 3.150"
.0000 to .0005"
.004 to .026"
.0001 to .0004"
Std., .003, .008" OS
Toward Right Side of Engine
3
2
1
.0775 to .0780"
.1860 to .1865"
.013 to .025"
.002 to .0035"
MyMopar.com
Intermediate
(Oil)
VALVES—Intake
Material
Head Diameter
Length (to top of valve face)..
Stem Diameter
Stem to Guide Clearance
Maximum Allowable Before
Reconditioning
Angle of Seat
Adjustment
Lift
VALVES—Exhaust
Material
Head Diameter
Length (to top of valve face)..
Stem Diameter
Stem to Guide Clearance
Maximum Allowable Before
Reconditioning
Angle of Seat
Adjustment
Lift
VALVE SPRINGS
Number
Free Length
Load When Compressed to
(valve closed)
Load When Compressed to
(valve open)
Valve Springs I.D
CYLINDER HEAD
Number Used
Combustion Chamber
Valve Seat Runout (maximum)
Intake Valve Seat Angle
Seat Width (finished)
Exhaust Valve Seat A n g l e . . . .
Seat Width (finished)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE (Cont'd)
ENGINE—5
LG-l and 2
.002 to .0035"
.001 to .0025"
LG-3 and LY-1
.002 to .0035"
.0010 to .0025"
Silicon-Chromium Steel
4*%"
.372 to .373"
.001 to .003"
.004"
45°
None
.388"
Silicon-Chromium Steel
2"
.372 to .373"
.001 to .003"
.004"
45°
None
.388"
.371 to .372"
.002 to .004"
.006"
45°
None
.388"
Nitrogen Treated Manganese
Chromium—Nickel Steel
.371 to .372"
.002 to .004"
.006"
45°
None
.388"
16
2"
1%"78 to 88 lbs.
" 170 to 184 lbs.
1.010 to 1.030"
16
2"
78 to 88 lbs.
170 to 184 lbs.
1.010 to 1.030"
Polyspherical
.002"
45°
.060 to .085"
45°
.040 to .060"
Hemispherical
.003"
45°
.060 to .085"
45°
.040 to .060"
MyMopar.com
Tool Number
C-119.
C-385.
C-425.
C-455.
C-647.
C-690.
C-741.
C-756.
C-863.
C-897.
C-3005
C-3012
C-3020
C-3024
C-3025
C-3026
C-3028
C-3033
C-3038
C-3046
C-3049
C-3052
C-3053
C-3054
C-3059
C-3061
6—ENGINE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE (Cont'd)
LG-l and 2
Cylinder Head Gasket Compressed
(thickness)
ENGINE LUBRICATION
Pump Type
Capacity (qts.)
Pump Drive
Operating Pressure at 40 to 50 mph
Pressure Drop Results from Clogged Filter.
•When Filter Element is Replaced Add 1 Qt.
.027'
Rotary, Full Pressure
4*
Camshaft
40 to 65 lbs.
15 to 20 lbs.
LC-3 and LY-1
.028'
Rotary, Full Pressure
5*
Camshaft
40 to 65 lbs.
15 to 20 lbs.
SPECIAL TOOLS
Tool Name
Indicator—Cylinder Bore
Compressor—Piston Ring
Vacuum Gauge
Wrench—Starting Motor Flange Nut
Tester—Clutch and Valve Spring
Scale and Gauge—Piston Fitting
Reamer—Solid Valve Guide
Cleaner—Valve Guide
Timing Light—6 and 12 Volt
Driver—Welch Plug Installer
Wrench—Torque 100 Foot-Pounds (Sensory Type)
Reamer—Cylinder Bore Ridge
Tool Main Bearing Seal
Tool—Rocker Arm and Spring Compressor
Sleeve—Guide Wear Measuring—Intake
Sleeve—Guide Wear Measuring—Exhaust
Reamer Set—Valve Tappet
Puller Set—Damper, Sprocket, Crank Gear
Fixtures—Cylinder Head Holding (FirePower)
Tool—Piston Ring Installer (SpitFire)
Reamer—Piston Pin Line (.980 to 1.030)
Remover—Distributor SWft Bushing
Driver and Burnisher—Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing
Wrench—Spark Plug
Tool—Main Bearing Upper Shell
Gauge—Valve Stem Length (FirePower)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ENGINE—7
SPECIAL TOOLS (Cont'd)
Tool Number Tool Name
C-3065 Gauge—Cylinder Compression
C-3066 Connector—Timing Light
C-3068 Rack—Hydraulic Tappet
C-3075 Gauge—Top Dead Center (FirePower)
C-3132 Puller and Installer—Camshaft Bearing
C-3151 Driver—Welch Plug Installing
C-3160 Pliers—Hydraulic Tappet Leakdown Checking
C-3167 Stand—Engine Repair
C-3168 Adapter—Engine Repair Stand
C-3216 Puller—Hydraulic Tappet
C-3221 Tool—Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
C-3339 Dial Indicator Set
C-3419 Wrench—Distributor Lock Plate
C-3422 Compressor—Valve Spring (FirePower)
C-3427 Reamer—Valve Guide (.404 to .405 inch)
C-3430 Reamer—Valve Guide (.389 to .390 inch) (SpitFire)
C-3433 Reamer—Valve Guide (.379 to .380 inch) (SpitFire)
C-3436 Gauge—Valve Stem Length (SpitFire)
C-3466 Plate—Engine Lifting
C-3495 Tool—Piston Ring Installer (FirePower)
C-3501 Cylinder Bore Deglazing Hone
C-3506 Removing and Installing Tool—Chain Case Cover Oil Seal
C-3509 Tool—Camshaft Holding
C-3511 Tool—Rear Main Bearing Seal Installing
C-3574 Tool Main Bearing Seal
DD-883 Driver—Valve Guide
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
(Foot-Pounds)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 35
Camshaft Sprocket Hub Thrust Plate Bolt 15
Carburetor to Manifold Stud Nut 15
Chain Case Cover Bolt 35
Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Bolt Nut 45
Cylinder Head Bolt 85
Distributor Clamp Bolt 15
Engine Front Mounting to Frame Nut 85
Engine Front Mounting to Block Nut 45
Exhaust Manifold Stud Nut 25
Exhaust Pipe Flange Bolt Nut 40
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolt 85
MyMopar.com
8—ENGINE CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TIGHTENING REFERENCE (Cont'd)
(Foot-Pounds)
Fan Blade Bolt 15
Flywheel Housing to Cylinder Block Bolt 50
Fuel Pump Bolt 30
Generator Adjusting Strap Bolt 15
Generator Adjiasfcmg Strap Mounting Bolt 30
Generator Bracket Bolt 50
Generator Mounting Bolt 20
Ignition Cable Cover Screw 7
Intake Manifold Bolt 30
Main Bearing Cap Bolt 86
Oil Filter Bolt 25
Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt Nut 10
Oil Pan Bolt 15
Oil Pan Drain Plug 35
Oil Pump Cover Bolt 10
Oil Pump Mounting Bolt 35
Spark Plugs 30
Vibration Damper Hub Bolt 135
Vibration Damper Inertia Member Flange Bolt 15
Water Outlet Elbow Bolt 35
Water Pump Housing Bolt 30
(Inch-Pounds)
Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Pipe Bolt 15
Manifold Heat Control Counterweight Bolt 50
Rocker Arm Cover Bolt Nut 30
Tappet Chamber Cover 50
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE—9
5 7 x 8 2 A
Fig. 1-SpitFire V-8 Engine (End Sectional View) o
57x83A
Fig. 2-F'rrePower V-8 Engine (End Sectional View)
MyMopar.com
10—ENGINE
SERVICE MANUAL
Section VII
ENGINE (FIGS. 1 and 2)
1. MINOR TUNE-UP
The following procedures are provided as a guide which should be followed when performing minor engine repairs or a complete engine over-haul.
Clean and adjust spark plugs (.035 inch gap).
Adjust or replace distributor contact points
(.015 to .018 inch gap). Check distributor cap for cracks and corrosion. Inspect rotor, rotor spring and plunger. Inspect distributor to spark plug wires for shorts. Inspect small lead wires for tightness, breakage, or damaged insulation.
Check for excessive play in distributor vacuum advance plate bearing. Reset ignition timing.
Check battery specific gravity and clean and tighten battery connections. Check starter amperage draw. Inspect fan belt, and check adjustment. Tighten carburetor flange nuts to 15 footpounds torque. Set carburetor idle mixture adjustment. Adjust throttle stop screw so engine idles at 450 to 500 r.p.m. Check manifold heat control valve.
addition, perform all steps of a "Minor Tune-
Up." Tighten manifold nuts. Make a compression test. The compression should not vary more than 20 pounds between cylinders. Refer to
"Engine Data and Specifications" for compression pressures. Check coil and condenser and inspect primary and secondary wires. Service the Air Cleaner —DO NOT WASH OR OIL.
Normal operation—Replace filter element every
15,000 miles. Service more frequently under severe dusty conditions. (See Fig. 3.) Test fuel pump for pressure and vacuum, and adjust carburetor. Refer to Fuel and Exhaust System,
Section VII, "Carburetor Adjustments." Check manifold heat control valve. Road test car as a final check.
'SHROUD BOLT WING NUT
WASHER
2. MAJOR TUNE-UP
On cars equipped with air conditioning, power steering, power brakes, heater, etc., refer to
Section covering this equipment for removal, installation and adjustment procedures.
A periodic engine tune-up will assure maximum engine performance and fuel economy. In
WING SCREW
FILTER
ELEMENT /
BOLT
SILENCER BODY
BRACKET 58x182
Fig. 3—Carburetor Air Cleaner (Disassembled View)
SERVICE PROCEDURES
3. REMOVAL OF ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(FROM CAR)
Disconnect propeller shaft, wires and linkage at transmission. Remove exhaust pipe. (Be sure exhaust system is sufficiently supported while engine is removed.) Remove rear crossmember to transmission support attaching bolts.
Drain cooling system and remove battery. Remove fan shroud, (Air Conditioning Models only) radiator and hood. Before removing hood, scribe outline of hinge brackets on hood to assure proper adjustment when installing. Disconnect fuel lines and wire attached to engine units.
Remove air cleaner and carburetor. Attach engine lifting fixture, Tool C-3466, to carburetor flange studs on intake manifold and attach a chain hoist to fixture eyebolt.
NOTE: Place a rollaway jack under transmission to relieve weight from crossmember. Place a wood block between head of jack and transmission to avoid damaging transmission oil pan.
This jack must support weight of rear of power plant and must be able to roll with the engine as engine is being removed from chassis.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Remove crossmember rear engine support.
Lower car to convenient working height and remove engine front support. With chain, hoist, raise engine and, at same time work engine out of chassis. If engine is to be disassembled, place engine in engine repair stand, Tool C-3167, using transmission mounting bolts.
4. INSTALLING ENGINE ON CAR)
Install engine lifting fixture, Tool C-3466 and attach chain hoist to fixture eyebolt. Lower engine carefully, until front and rear of engine are approximately positioned. Place a rollaway jack under transmission to support weight of rear of engine. Install engine rear support crossmember. Position engine and install nuts at front mounts. Position and install rear engine support bolts and remove jack and hoist. Remove engine lifting fixture. Install manifold, carburetor, fuel lines, wiring and linkage. Install radiator, radiator hoses, wires and radiator shroud. Install exhaust pipes> using new gaskets. Reinstall hood by checking scribe marks placed on inside of hood at removal. Connect propeller shaft at transmission. Be sure all drain cocks are closed; refill cooling system, refill engine crankcase and transmission. Refer to
Lubrication, Section XIV for quantities and lubricants to use. Check entire system for leaks and correct as necessary.
NOTE: Whenever an engine has been rebuilt and a new camshaft and/or new tappets have been installed, one quart of MOPAR Oil Additive should be added to engine oil to aid breakin. The oil mixture should be left in engine for a minimum of 500 miles. It is not necessary however, to drain the mixture before normal oil change is required, nor is it necessary to use the oil additive at subsequent oil changes.
Fig. 4-Cylinder Head (SpitFire Engine)
57x219
ENGINE—11
Fig. 5-Cylinder Head (FirePower Engine)
57x221
Start engine, warm up to 160 degrees F., check timing and adjust carburetor as necessary.
5. REMOVAL OF CYLINDER HEADS
(Fig. 4 and 5)
Drain cooling system. Remove generator. Remove carburetor air cleaner and fuel line. Disconnect accelerator linkage. Remove vacuum control tube at carburetor and distributor. Disconnect coil wires and heater hose. Remove heat indicator sending unit wire. Remove oil level indicator (dip stick). Remove air tube between automatic choke and exhaust manifold. Remove water outlet manifold. Remove heater blower. Remove ignition cable cover and disengage insulators from spark plugs. Use a thin wall socket, or Tool C-3054 to remove spark plugs and tubes. Remove intake manifold, ignition coil and carburetor as an assembly. Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets. Disconnect exhaust pipes at manifold flanges. Remove bolts that attach rocker arm support brackets to cylinder head and block, and pull rocker assemblies and bolts directly away from heads.
CAUTION
The rocker arm assembly attaching bolts (Fire-
Power ) also hold cylinder heads to block. When these bolts are removed, cylinder heads are loose and are held by two dowel pins only.
Remove push rods and place them in their respective slots in holder Tool-C-3068. Lift off cylinder head and place into holding fixture
Tool C-3038. Remove exhaust manifold and gasket, if cylinder head is to be replaced.
MyMopar.com
12—ENGINE
EXHAUST VALVE PUSH RODS
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
INTAKE VALVE PUSH RODS • 55x48A
Fig. 6-Push Rods Installed (SpitFire)
NOTE: On FirePower Engine only, the right cylinder head rocker shaft brackets and the cylinder head bolts can be removed as a complete assembly. On the left cylinder head remove the stop light switch from the master brake cylinder, oil level indicator, (on Power
Steering remove pump oil line) before removing the cylinder head assembly.
6. INSTALLATION OF CYLINDER HEADS
Clean gasket surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder head. Check all surfaces with a straightedge if there is any reason to suspect leakage.
Install cylinder heads and new cylinder head gaskets. Coat gaskets with MOPAR Perfect
Seal, Part No. 1122893 or equivalent sealer.
Install push rods as shown in Figures 6 and
INTAKE PUSH RODS'
Fig. 8—Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts (SpitFire)
7. Insert cylinder head bolts into rocker arm support brackets and place rocker arm assemblies in position on head, lining up all push rods to their respective rocker arms. Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 60-80 foot-pounds torque, in sequence shown in Figure 8 and 9. Then repeat the procedure, tightening all head bolts to 85 foot-pounds torque. Place new valve tappet cover gaskets in position, and install tappet cover. Tighten bolts to 50 inch-pounds torque. Install crankcase breather tube on tappet cover and insert oil level indicator (dip stick) tube into position.
Install new cylinder head cover gasket and install cover. Tighten nuts and bolts to 30 inchpounds torque. On FirePower engines slide spark plug tube seals over tubes, and install in position in heads. Check spark plugs for .035
inch gap and install plugs, being careful not
Fig. 7—Push Rods Installed (FirePower)
5 1 x 9 7 8
Fig. 9—Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts (FirePower)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
GENERATOR ADJUSTING
STRAP BOLT
ENGINE—13
INTAKE VALVE ROCKERS
•DOWEL
SLOT FOR
CYLINDER HEAD
BOLT
INTAKE VALVE
ROCKER
PUMP ADJUSTING BOLT
Fig. 1 0 - A d justing of Fan Belts
57x21«A to drop them on electrodes as this would cause gap setting to be altered. Tighten spark plugs to 30 foot-pounds torque with Tool C-3054. Install new intake manifold gaskets and manifold.
Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.
NOTE: When installing intake manifold, insert short bolts in holes on extreme ends of manifold.
Install distributor cap coil wire, spark plug cables and insulators. On FirePower Engines place spark plug tube seal retainers in position and install spark plug covers, after carefully
COTTER PIN
ROCKER ARMS
SPACER SPRINGS
EXHAUST VALVE
ROCKERS
55x725A
BRACKET
DOWEL
Fig. 11—Rocker Shaft Assembly (Disassembled View)
(SpitFire) arranging spark plug cables. Tighten screws securely. Install generator. Tighten generator bracket bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque and generator mounting nut to 20 foot-pounds torque.
NOTE: When adjusting fan and accessory belt drives as shown in Figure 10, refer to Section
FV, Accessory Belt Drives in this Manual.
7. REMOVAL OF ROCKER ARMS AND
SHAFT ASSEMBLY
Remove rocker arm cover and gasket. Remove bolts that attach rocker arm support brackets and cylinder head to cylinder block and remove rocker arms and brackets as an assembly.
PINS
5U890A
ROCKER ARM SHAFT BRACKETS
Fig. 12-Rocker Shaft Assembly (Disassembled View) (FirePower)
MyMopar.com
14—ENGINE
CAUTION
With bolts removed, the cylinder heads are held in position by two locating dowel pins only.
(FirePower Engines)
If rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection or replacement, refer to Figures 11 and 12 for proper reassembly.
NOTE: On FirePower engines rocker shafts are stamped "IN" for intake and "EX" for exhaust. The intake rocker arms are shorter than exhaust rocker arms.
8. INSTALLATION OF ROCKER ARM AND
SHAFT ASSEMBLY
Install push rods as shown in Figures 6 and 7.
The push rods should be properly positioned in rocker arm and tappets.
CAUTION
Be sure locating dowels on brackets are in proper alignment in head, as shown in Figure
11.
Position rocker arm assemblies. Install cylinder head bolts. Tighten bolts 60-80 footpounds torque in sequence shown in Figures
8 and 9. Then repeat the procedure, tightening all head bolts to 85 foot-pounds torque.
9. REMOVAL OF VALVES AND VALVE
SPRINGS
With cylinder head removed, compress valve springs with Tool C-3422 (SpitFire Engines and Tool C-3024 (FirePower Engines). Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring retainers, valve stem cup seals (intake valves only) and valve springs. Remove burrs from valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to valve guide when valves are removed.
10. VALVE INSPECTION
Clean valves thoroughly, and discard burned, warped or cracked valves. Check valve stems for wear. Intake valve stems should measure
.372 to .373 inch, and exhaust valve stems should measure .371 and .372 inch. If wear exceeds .002 inch, replace the valve. Remove carbon and varnish deposits from inside of valve guides with cleaner, Tool C-756.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
INTAKE VALVE
CHECKING SLEEVE
• EXHAUST VALVE
CHECKING SLEEVE
'5U33A
Fig. 13—Installing Sleeves to Check Guide Clearance
(FirePower) (Typical of SpitFire)
NOTE: On SpitFire Engines, the valve guides are cast integrally with the cylinder head. Service valves with oversize stems are available for these engines.
Check valve stem to guide clearance as follows: Install sleeve, Tool C-3025, over intake valve stem, and sleeve Tool C-3026 on exhaust valve stem and install valves (Fig. 13). These special sleeves place valve at working height for easy checking with a dial indicator. Attach dial indicator Tool C-3339 to cylinder head and set it at right angle to edge of valve being checked (Fig. 14). Move valve to and from indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed .008 inch on intake valves, or .014
inch on exhaust valves. If readings exceed the above tolerances, install new valve guides
54x3288
Fig. 14—Checking Valve Guide Clearance (SpitFire)
(Typical of FirePower)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REAM IN PLACE EXHAUST VAIVE STEM GUIDE /
"RfcAM IN PLACE INTAKE VALVE STEM G U I D E V
ENGINE—15
MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT
MINIMUM MEASUREMENT
51x36A
Fig. 15—Exhaust and Intake Valve Guide Installed in Head (FirePower)
(FirePower Engines), or ream guides for oversize valves (SpitFire Engines), to next oversize (if other than standard).
11. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
VALVE GUIDES
On FirePower Engines drive out guides through top of cylinder heads with Tool DD-
883. Install as follows: Turn cylinder head with combustion chamber facing up. Drive valve guides into position with a suitable driver to dimensions shown in Figure 15. After new valve guides have been installed, ream each guide .374 to .375 inch with Tool C-741. On
SpitFire Engines valves with oversize stems are available in .005, .015, and .030 inch. Reamers to accommodate the oversize valve stems are as follows: Reamer Tool C-3433 (.379 to
INTAKE
VALVE
\MARGIN
X
FACE-
EXHAUST
VALVE
55x733 "*
Fig. 17—Checking Valve Stem Position (SpitFire)
.380 inch), Reamer Tool C-3427 (.404 to .405
inch). Slowly turn reamer by hand and clean guide thoroughly before installing new valve.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to ream valve guides from standard directly to .030 inch. Use step procedure of
.005, .015, and .030 inch so the valve guides may he reamed true in relation to valve seat.
12. REFACING VALVES AND VALVE SEATS
The intake and exhaust valves are faced to a
45 degree angle. When refacing valve, always check remaining margin (Fig. 16). Valves with less than %
4
inch margin should be discarded.
The angle of both valve and seat should be identical. When refacing valve seats with Tool
MTH-80, it is important that correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained. Check concentricity of valve seat using a dial indicator ; total runout should not exceed .002 inch
(total indicator reading). When the seat is
MINIMUM MEASUREMENT
VALVE STEM LENGTH GAUGE cyT.
il*
STEM
VALVE SPRING RETAINER .'
LOCK GROOViS
54x330A
Fig. 16—Intake and Exhaust Valve Nomenclature
1x758
Fig. 18—Checking Valve Stem Position (FirePower)
MyMopar.com
16—ENGINE
properly positioned, width of intake seats should be y
16
to %
2
inch. The width of exhaust seats should be %
4
to y
16
. When valves and seats are reground, the position of valve in head is changed, shortening operating length of hydraulic tappet. This means that plunger is operating closer to its bottomed position, and less clearance is available for thermal expansion of valve mechanism during high speed driving. Design of plunger travel includes a safety factor for normal wear and refacing of valves and seats. The dimension from valve spring seat in head to valve tip should be checked with gauge Tool C-3436 for SpitFire
Engines and gauge Tool C-3061 for FirePower
Engines, (Figs. 17 and 18).
The end of cylindrical gauge and bottom of slotted area represent maximum and minimum allowable extension of valve stem tip beyond spring seat. If tip exceeds maximum, grind to approach, but do not go below minimum allowable on gauge.
13. TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
Whenever valve springs are removed they should be tested with spring tester, Tool C-647.
Attach torque wrench, check tension and multiply reading by 2. The valve springs should test 170 to 184 pounds when compressed to 1%
6 inch. Discard springs that do not meet these specifications.
Check each spring for squareness with a steel square and surface plate. (Fig. 19). If spring is more than y
1Q
inch out of square, install new spring.
SEAL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
RETAINERS
LOCKS w
54x336A
Fig. 20—Valves, Springs, Seals, Retainers and
Locks (Disassembled View)
14. INSTALLING VALVES AND VALVE
SPRINGS
Coat valve stems with lubricating oil and insert in position in cylinder head. Install cup seals on intake valve stems and over valve guides (Figs. 20 and 21), and install valve springs and retainers. Compress valve springs with Tool C-3422. Install locks and release tool.
RETAINER
VALVE SPRING
INTAKE VALVE
CUP SEAL
Fig. 19-Checking Valve Spring for Squareness
Fig. 21-lnstalling Intake Valves and Cup Seals
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
NOTE: If valves and/or seats are reground, check the installed height of springs. Make sure measurement is taken from full depth of counterbore in cylinder head to bottom surface of spring retainer. (If spacers are installed measure from top of spacer). If height is greater than 1 11/16 inches, install a 1/16 inch spacer
(Part No. 1400482) in head counterbore to bring spring height back to normal 1 5 / 8 to
1 11/16 inch.
15. HYDRAULIC TAPPETS a. Preliminary to Checking Hydraulic Tappets
Before disassembling any part of engine to check for tappet noise, check oil pressure at gauge and oil level in oil pan. The pressure should be between 40 to 65 pounds at 2,000 r.p.m. The oil level in pan should never be above "full" mark on dip stick, nor below "add oil" mark. Either of two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
Oil Level Too High—If oil level is above
"full" mark on dip stick, it is possible the connecting rods can dip into oil when engine is running and create foaming. This foam is fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump, causing them to go flat and allowing valves to seat noisily.
Oil Level Too Low—Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which, when fed to tappets, causes them to lose length and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of pump through which air can be drawn will create the same tappet action. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy.
When oil level leaks have been corrected, the engine should run at fast idle for sufficient time to allow all of air inside of tappets to be worked out.
b. Tappet Noises
To determine source of tappet noise, run engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
Feel each valve spring to detect the noisy tappet.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on valve spring. Inspect rock-
ENGINE—17
er arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet.
Valve tappet noise can be separated into two types, light noise and heavy noise. A light noise is usually caused by excessive leakdown around the unit plunger, or by plunger partially sticking in cylinder. A heavy noise is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between plunger and tappet body, causing plunger to stick in down position. This heavy noise will be further evidenced by clearance between valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either instance, the unit assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
c. Removal of Tappets (with Rocker Anns In
Position)
NOTE: If all of tappets are to be removed, it will be advisable to remove rocker arms and shaft. If only one or two tappets are to be removed, proceed as follows:
Install valve spring compression Tool C-3024, over rocker arm (Fig. 22) so heel of tool rests on valve stem side. Make certain valve is seated and tappet body is resting on low point of camshaft lobe. Refer to Paragraph 17, "Locating the Low Point of Camshaft Lobe in Conjunction with Valve Tappet Face." Using handle
TOOL C-3024
Fig. 22—Compressing Valve Spring (FirePower)
(Typical of SpitFire)
MyMopar.com
18—ENGINE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PLUNGER RETAINING SPRING CLIP
PLUNGER CAP
TAPPET PLUNGER
FLAT VALVE
VALVE SPRING-
VALVE RETAINER-
PLUNGER SPRING'
CLEAN
KEROSENE
TAPPET BODY
52x389B
Fig. 23—Hydraulic Tappet (Disassembled Vieyv)
51x481C
Fig. 24—Tappet Immersed in Clean Kerosene of tool for leverage, compress valve springs sufficiently to raise rocker arm above push rod.
While holding rocker arm in this position, slide rocker arm to one side along the tube.
NOTE: To avoid damage to valves, be sure that piston head is well below top of travel before compressing valve springs.
Remove intake manifold, carburetor and coil as an assembly. Remove tappet chamber cover and gasket. Lift tappet out of bore. If all tappets are to be removed, remove hydraulic tappets and place them in their respective holes in tappet and push rod holder, Tool C-3068. This will insure installation of tappets in their original locations.
NOTE: Do not disassemble a tappet on a dirty work bench. The plunger and tappet bodies are not interchangeable. The plunger and valve must always be fitted to the original body. It is advisable to work on one tappet at a time to avoid mixing parts. Mixed parts are not usable.
d. Disassembly (Fig. 23)
Pry out plunger retainer spring clip. Clean varnish deposits from inside of tappet body above plunger cap. Invert tappet body and remove plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer, and plunger spring. Separate plunger, check valve retainer, and check valve spring. Place all parts in their respective place in tappet holder, Tool
C-3068.
e. Cleaning and Assembly
Clean all tappet parts in a solvent that will remove all varnish and carbon. Replace tappets that are unfit for further service. Assemble tappets, as shown in Figure 24.
i Inspection
If tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored, scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream bore to next oversize, using Tool C-3028. If plunger shows signs of scoring or wear ajnd valve is pitted, or if valve seat on end of plunger indicates any condition that would prevent valve from seating, install a new tappet assembly.
g. Testing
Use a clean container. Fill the container with clean kerosene. Remove cap from plunger and completely submerge tappet in an upright position. Allow tappet to fill with kerosene. Remove tappet and replace cap. Hold tappet in an upright position and insert the lower jaw of pliers,
Tool C-3160, in groove of tappet body (Fig.
25). Engage jaw of pliers with top of tappet plunger. Check leakdown by compressing pliers.
If plunger collapses almost instantly as pressure is applied, disassemble tappet, clean and.
test again. If tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
51x971D
Fig. 25—Testing Hydraulic Tappet (Typical) h. Installation
Lubricate tappets. Install tappets (Fig. 26) and push rods in their original bores. Position rocker arm so it is partially seated on valve stem. Install valve spring compressor tool and compress valve spring until rocker arm can be positioned over push rod. Remove tool and install tappet chamber cover. Install intake manifold, carburetor and coil, refill cooling system, start engine, warm up to normal operating temperature.
NOTE: To prevent damage to valve mechanism, the engine must not be run above fast idle until all of hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and become quiet.
Fig. 26-lnstalling Tappet Assembly x51A
ENGINE—19
16. CHECKING VALVE TIMING
Turn crankshaft until Number one intake valve is closed. Insert a .210 inch spacer between rocker arm and stem of Number one intake valve. (This can be done by prying between rocker and valve spring seat with a large screwdriver).
Install a dial indicator so that pointer contacts valve spring seat as nearly at a right angle as possible. Wait until seat stops moving.
This indicates that oil has bled out of hydraulic tappet and plunger has bottomed, giving, in affect, a solid tappet. Set dial indicator on zero and turn crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until dial indicator shows that valve has lifted .020 inch (SpitFire) and .024 inch
(FirePower). The timing on the vibration damper should now read from 5 degrees (BTDC) before top dead center to 7 degrees (ATDC) after top dead center. Before making this check, it is well to check the accuracy of the (TDC) top dead center mark on the damper by bringing Number One piston to (TDC) by means of an indicator placed in spark plug opening. After valve timing has been checked, turn crankshaft counter-clockwise until tappet is back down to valve-closed position. Remove the .210
inch spacer from between the rocker arm and valve stem.
CAUTION
Under no condition should crankshaft be turned further in clockwise direction, as spacer might cause valve spring to bottom and damage valve operating mechanism.
17. LOCATING LOW POINT OF CAMSHAFT IN
CONJUNCTION WITH VALVE TAPPET FACE
(CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLED)
Remove distributor cap, noting position of rotor for Number One and Number Six cylinders.
Set timing mark ("DC") on vibration damper to pointer. With rotor at Number One firing position, the following tappets will be on low side of cam lobe.
2—Intake
2—Exhaust
4—Exhaust
7—Intake
8—Intake
8—Exhaust
MyMopar.com
20—ENGINE
NOTE? To remove Number One intake and exhaust tappet, rotate the crankshaft *4 turn clockwise from above position.
With rotor at Number Six firing position, the following tappets will be on low side of cam lobe:
3—Intake
3—Exhaust
4—Intake
5—Intake
5—Exhaust
7—Exhaust
NOTE: To remove Number Six intake and exhaust tappet, rotate crankshaft \i turn clockwise from above position.
18. REMOVAL OF TIMING GEARS AND CHAIN
Remove radiator and water pump assembly.
Remove bolt and flatwasher holding vibration damper on crankshaft. Remove two of the damper bolts, install Tool C-3033, and pull damper assembly off end of crankshaft.
Remove chain cover and gasket. Slide crankshaft oil slinger off end of crankshaft. Remove fuel pump eccentric attaching bolt, cup washer and eccentric. Remove timing chain, with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Remove the camshaft and crankshaft gear keys from their respective slots.
CRANKSHAFT
SPROCKET
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SPROCKET
RETAINER WASHER M flff . B 56x556 A
Fig. 28—Installing Fuel Pump Eccentric
19. INSTALLATION OF TIMING GEARS AND
CHAIN a. Installation
Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary centerline through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.
Place timing chain around both sprockets.
Insert crankshaft and camshaft woodruff keys in their respective slots. Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with keyway locations in the sprockets.
Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight in position as described) slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts
TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 27—Checking Alignment of Timing Marks
56x130
Fig. 29—Measuring Timing Chain Stretch (Typical)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
(see Fig. 29), "Camshaft Installation". Use straight edge to check alignment of timing marks (Fig. 27.)
Slide fuel pump eccentric over camshaft against sprocket (Fig. 28). Be sure slot in eccentric lines up with protruding camshaft sprocket key. Install cup washer and bolt and tighten 35 foot-pounds torque.
b. Checking Timing Chain for Stretch
Place a scale next to timing chain so that any movement of chain may be measured. Place a torque wrench and socket over camshaft gear attaching bolt and apply torque in direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 30 footpounds torque (with cylinder heads installed) and 15 foot-pounds torque (heads removed).
Holding scale with dimensional reading even with edge of a chain link, apply torque in reverse direction 25 foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) and 15 foot-pounds (heads removed), and note the amount of chain rotation (Fig. 29). Install new timing chain, if its movement is greater than %
6
inch.
NOTE: With a torque applied to camshaft gear bolt, the crankshaft should not move. If there is any movement, however, the crankshaft should be blocked to prevent rotation.
If chain is satisfactory, slide crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against gear (flange away from gear.)
20. TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER OIL SEAL
REPLACEMENT a. Removing Oil Seal
Position puller screw of Tool C-3506 through
PULLER BLOCKS . ^ , — i ^ UP OF SEAL RETAINER
PULLER SCREW
REMOVING A N D
INSTALLING PLATE
SLEEVE
ENGINE—21
56X222
Fig. 31—Removing Oil Seal case cover, with inside of case cover up. Position puller blocks directly opposite each other, and force angular lip between neoprene and flange of seal retainer. Place washer and nut on puller screw. Tighten nut as tight as possible by hand, forcing blocks into gap to point of distorting seal retainer lip (Fig. 30). THIS IS
IMPORTANT! (puller is only positioned at this point.) Place sleeve over retainer and place removing and installing plate into sleeve. Place flatwasher and nut on puller screw. Hold center screw and tighten lock nut to remove seal
(Fig. 31).
b. Installing Oil Seal
Insert puller screw through removing and installing plate so that the thin shoulder will be facing up.
NOTE: Always have thin shoulder up with stamped case cover, and thick shoulder up with a cast iron case cover.
Insert puller screw with plate through seal
INSTALLING PLATE
PULLER SCREW
SEAL
ASSEMBLY^ ':
56X221
Fig. 30—Puller Blocks Expanded to Correct
Pulling Position
t m - r -- *
:
- >?- •.. : « n n R i t « . 56x220
Fig. 32—Positioning Installer Plate on New Seal
MyMopar.com
22—ENGINE
SEAL RETAINER
INSTALLING PLATE
PULLER SCREW
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DAMPER
, PULLEY
p LOCKWASHER
/
/ RETAINER
/ WASHER
/
56X223
Fig. 33-lnstalling New Seal opening (inside of chain case cover facing up).
Place seal in cover opening, with neoprene down. Place seal installing plate into the new seal, with protective recess toward lip of seal retainer (Fig. 32). Install flatwasher and nut on puller screw, hold screw, and tighten nut
(Fig. 33). Seal is properly installed when neoprene is tight against face of cover. Try to insert a .0015 feeler gauge between neoprene and cover (Fig. 34). If seal is installed properly, the feeler gauge cannot be inserted.
NOTE: It is normal to find particles of neoprene collected between the seal retainer and crankshaft oil slinger.
c. Installing Chain Case Cover
Be sure mating surfaces of chain case cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs. Using a new gasket, slide chain case cover over locating dowels and tighten bolts 15 foot-pounds torque.
21. INSTALLING VIBRATION DAMPER (Fig. 35)
Place damper hub key in slot in crankshaft,
57x223 BO(T
Fig. 35—Vibration Damper Assembly
(Disassembled View) and slide hub on crankshaft. Place installing tool (part of Puller set Tool C-3033) in position and press damper hub on crankshaft. Slide pul-
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR
Fig. 36—Distributor Drive Gear Installation x 9 7 6 A
CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
SPACER
CAMSHAFT,
CHAIN
CASE COVER
57x222
Fig. 34—Checking to Determine if Seal is
Properly Seated
THRUST PLATE
BOLT
FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC
CUP WASHER
56x47
Fig. 37—Camshaft Drive Parts (Disassembled View)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ley over shaft and secure with bolts and lockwashers. Tighten, bolts 15 foot-pounds torque.
Install damper hub retainer washer and bolt.
Tighten to 135 foot-pounds torque.
22. CAMSHAFT REMOVAL
With intake manifold, tappet cover, push rods, tappets and timing gears removed, remove distributor. Lift out distributor drive gear and stub shaft, (Fig. 36). Remove camshaft thrust plate attaching bolts and oil trough, (Fig. 37).
Withdraw camshaft and spacer, being careful not to damage the cam bearings with the cam lobes.
23. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING
(Camshaft Removed) a. Removal
Insert Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained, (Fig. 38).
Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until bushing is removed.
b. Installation
Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Tool
C-3053 and insert tool and bushing into bore.
Drive bushing and tool into position, using a soft hammer. As the burnisher is pulled through bushing by tightening puller nut, the bushing is wedged tight in block and burnished to correct size. DO NOT REAM THIS BUSHING.
Fig. 38—Removing and Installing the Distributor
Drive Shaft Bushing
DIITRIBUTOR LOCK SCREW
ENGINE—23
[DRIVE GEAR WO? « . ^BT % W * J L ^56X1!
Fig. 39-Camshaft Holding Tool C-3509
24. CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
Install Tool C-3509 in place of distributor drive gear and stub shaft (Fig. 39). Hold tool in position with distributor lock plate screw. This tool will restrict the camshaft from being pushed in too far and prevent knocking out the Welch plug, and should remain installed until camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain have been installed. Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and install camshaft being careful not to damage cam bearings with the cam lobes. Install thrust plate spacer (chamfered side toward camshaft fillet). Install thrust plate and oil trough; tighten screws 15 foot-pounds torque.
Check difference in thickness between spacer and thrust plate. The spacer should be thicker than thrust plate to extent that camshaft must have an end play of .002 to .006 inch.
NOTE: Whenever an engine has been rebuilt and a new camshaft and or new tappets have been installed, one quart of MOPAR Oil Additive should be added to the engine oil to aid break in. The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles. However, it is not necessary to drain the mixture before normal oil change is required, nor is it necessary to use the oil additive at subsequent oil changes.
25. DISTRIBUTOR (BASIC) TIMING
Before installing the distributor drive shaft and gear, time engine as follows: Rotate crank-
MyMopar.com
24—ENGINE
shaft until Number One cylinder is at top dead center on Firing Stroke (check with Tool C-
3075). When in this position, the pointer on chain case cover should be over ("DC") on vibration damper. Position oil pump shaft so that it lines up with slot in drive gear. Coat shaft of drive gear with engine oil. Install so that, after gear spirals into place, it will index with oil pump shaft, and slot in top of drive gear will be parallel with center line of crankshaft (Fig. 36).
26. INSTALLATION OF DISTRIBUTOR
Hold distributor over mounting pad on cylinder block with vacuum chamber pointing toward right hand cylinder bank. Turn rotor until it points forward and to approximate location of
Number One tower in distributor cap. Turn rotor counter-clockwise until breaker contacts are just separating. Place distributor oil seal ring in position. Lower distributor and engage shaft in slot of distributor drive shaft gear while holding rotor in position.
27. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS (Engine
Removed from Car) a. Removal
With engine completely disassembled, drive out rear cam bearing Welch plug. Install proper size adapters and horse shoe washers (part of
Tool C-3132) at back of each bearing shell to be removed and drive out bearing shells.
b. Installation
Install new camshaft bearings with Tool C-
3132 by sliding new camshaft bearing shell over proper size adapter. Position bearing in tool (Fig. 40). Install horse shoe lock and by reversing removal procedure* carefully drive bearing shell into place. Install remaining shells in like manner. The oil holes in camshaft bearings and cylinder block must be in exact alignment to insure proper lubrication. (Fig. 40).
Camshaft bearing index can be checked after installation by inserting a pencil flashlight in bearing shell. The complete circumference of camshaft bearing hole should be visible by looking through main bearing drilled oil passage.
Another oil hole in cam bearings should be visible by looking down the left bank oil hole above and between No. 1 and 3 cylinders to
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING OIL HOLE
CAMSHAFT BEARING OIL HOLE
Fig. 40—Installing Camshaft Bearing Shells
Using Tool C-3034
No. 2 cam bearing, and on the right bank above and between No. 6 and 8 cylinders to No. 4 cam bearing. If camshaft bearing shell oil holes are not in exact alignment, remove and reinstall.
Use Tool C-897 to install a new Welch plug at rear of camshaft. Be sure this plug does not leak.
28. CYLINDER BLOCK
Clean cylinder block thoroughly, check all core hole plugs for evidence of leaking. If new core hole plugs are installed; coat edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer and drive plugs in place with driver, Tool C-897. Examine block for minute cracks or fractures. Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure lo keep tops of pistons covered during this operation.
NOTE: Pistons and connecting rods must be removed from the top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from engine, rotate crankshaft so each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
Remove connecting rod cap and bearing shells. Install Tool C-3221 on one connecting rod bolt and protector over the other bolts and push each piston and rod assembly out of cylinder bore. After removal, install bearing cap to mating rod.
a. Checking Cylinder Bores
The cylinder bores should be checked for out-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL of-round and taper with Tool CM-119. If cylinder bores show more than .005 inch out-ofround or a taper of more than .010 inch, the cylinder block should be rebored and new pistons and rings fitted.
b. Honing Cylinder Bores
To remove light scoring, scuffing, or scratches from cylinder walls, use honing Tool C-823.
The crankshaft, bearings and internal parts should be protected during honing and boring operations. Usually one or two "passes" with a hone will clean up a bore and still maintain required limits. If cylinder bores are found to be satisfactory in respect to taper and out-ofround and new rings are to be installed, use cylinder surfacing hone Tool C-3501 with 280 grit stones for deglazing bores. This will facilitate in the break-in of new rings.
CAUTION
Be sure all abrasives are removed from engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a solution of soap and water be used with a brush and then thoroughly dried. If this is impossible use SAE No. 10 oil and CLEAN rags. When the bore can be wiped with a clean white rag and be withdrawn clean, the bore is clean.
c. Cylinder Walls
Cylinder walls which are badly scored, scuffed, scratched, or worn beyond specified limits should be rebored. Whatever type of boring equipment is used, boring operation should be closely co-ordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings, in order that specifications may be maintained.
SPRING SCALE (TOOL)
INVERTED PISTON
PISTON RING
ENGINE—25
57x225
Fig. 42—Checking Ring G a p in Cylinder Bore (FirePower)
(Typical of SpitFire) d. Fitting Pistons
The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry. Coat the bore very lightly with SAE
10 W Engine Oil. The recommended clearance between the thrust face of piston and cylinder wall is .005 to .0015 inch. Check clearance with a .002 inch feeler stock y% inch wide on spring scale Tool C-690, by inserting piston in bore, upside down, with feeler stock between thrust face of piston and cylinder wall. Hold piston and draw the feeler stock straight out with spring scale (Fig. 41). The amount of pull required to withdraw the feeler stock should be
8 to 12 pounds.
NOTE: Piston fitting should be done at normal room temperature, 70° F.
All service pistons include piston pins and retaining rings and are available in standard
RING GROOVE
57x224
Fig. 41—Fitting Piston to Cylinder Bore (FirePower)
(Typical of SpitFire)
57x226
Fig. 43—Checking Piston Ring Side Clearance
MyMopar.com
26—ENGINE
51x60
Fig. 44—Fitting Piston Pins in Connecting Rod and the following oversizes, .005, .020, .040
and .060 inch, (C-75 only).
e. Fitting Rings
Measure piston ring gap about two (2) inches from bottom of cylinder bore in which it is to be fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down to position.) This will insure positioning rings exactly square with cylinder wall before measuring. Insert feeler stock in gap (Fig. 42). The ring gap should be between .010 to .020 inch. This measurement is the same for all rings. Measure clearance between piston ring and ring groove (Fig. 43).
The clearance should be .0015 to .0030 inch for top compression ring, .001 to .0025 inch for intermediate ring, and .001 to .003 for oil con-
PISTON PIN
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL trol ring. Starting with oil ring expander, place expander ring in lower ring groove and install oil control ring. Install compression rings, in top and middle grooves. Use ring installer,
Tool C-3418.
NOTE: Be sure the mark "Top" on each compression ring is to the top of piston when ring is installed.
f. Fitting Pins
The piston pin should be a tight thumb press fit in connecting rod (Fig. 44) and in piston
(Fig. 45) at normal room temperature, 70°F.
If proper fit cannot be obtained with standard pins, ream piston and connecting rod, and install oversize piston pin. Piston pins are supplied in standard and the following oversizes:
.003 and .008 inch. Assemble pistons to rods on right cylinder bank (2, 4, 6, and 8), with the indent on piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large end of connecting rod.
Assemble pistons to rods on left cylinder bank
(1, 3, 5, and 7) with the indent on the piston head on the same side as the larger chamfer on large end of connecting rod.
29. CONNECTING RODS
IMPORTANT
A Maltese Cross stamped on the engine numbering pad (Fig. 46) indicates that engine is equipped with a crankshaft which has one or more connecting rods and main bearing journals finished .001 inch undersize. The position
3/8"
Fig. 45-Fitting Piston Pin in Piston (Typical)
57x227
3/8
Kfflfc
56x247
Fig. 46—External Identification (Parts other than standard size)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL of the undersize journal or journals will be stamped on machined surface of Number 3 counter-weight (Fig. 4 7 ) . Connecting rod journals will be identified by letter "R" and main bearing journals by the letter "M". Thus, "M-l" indicates that Number 1 main bearing journal is .001 undersize. Also, a diamond-shaped marking stamped on engine numbering pad indicates that All tappet bodies are .008 inch oversize.
(See Fig. 4 6 ) .
30. INSTALLING CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
NOTE: Fit all rods of one bank until completed.
Do not alternate from one bank to another, because when rods are assembled to pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.
Each bearing cap has a small "V" groove across the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that "V" groove in shell is in line with "V" groove in cap. This allows lubrication of the cylinder wall. The bearing shells should always be installed so that small formed tang fits into machined grooves of rods. The side play should be from .006 to
.014 inch (two rods).
Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to .001 inch. Bearings are available in .001, .002, .003, .010 and
.012 undersize.
NOTE: Install bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not file rods or bearings caps.
5 5 x 1 6 2
Fig. 47—Internal Identification (Parts other than standard size)
ENGINE—27
31. CHECKING CONNECTING ROD BEARING
CLEARANCE (PLASTIGAGE METHOD)
The measurement of connecting rod bearing clearance can be done with the use of Plastigage with the engine in the chassis. After removing the connecting rod cap, wipe off oil from the journal and inserts. Place the Plastigage on bearing, parallel with crankshaft. Reinstall cap and tighten attaching nuts alternately to specified torque.
Remove cap and measure the width of the compressed material with the graduated scale to determine bearing clearance. Allowable clearance is from .0005 to .0015 inches. If taper of compressed material is evident, measure with the graduated scale. If difference exceeds .001
inch, journal should be checked with micrometers.
32. INSTALLING PISTON AND CONNECTING
ROD ASSEMBLY IN CYLINDER BLOCK
Before installing pistons, rods, and rod assemblies in bore, be sure that compression ring gaps are diametrically opposite one another and not in line with oil ring gap. The oil ring expander gap should be toward the outside "V" of engine. The oil ring gap should be turned toward the inside of the "V" of engine. Immerse piston head and rings in clean engine oil, slide ring compressor, Tool C-385, over piston, and tighten with special wrench (part of Tool C-385). Be sure position of rings does not change during this operation. Screw connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool C-
3221) on one rod bolt, and insert rod and piston into cylinder bore. Attach puller part of Tool C-3221 on the other bolt, and guide the rod over crankshaft journal. Tap piston down in cylinder bore, using handle of a hammer. At the same time, guide connecting rod into position on crankshaft journal. The notch or groove on top of piston must be pointing toward front of engine and the larger chamfer of connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankshaft journal fillet. Install rod caps, tighten nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.
33. CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Journal grinding should not exceed .012 inch under the
MyMopar.com
28—ENGINE
standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind thrust faces of No. 3 main bearing. DO NOT nick crankpin or main bearing fillets. After regrinding remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all oil passages.
34. CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
The halves of Number 1, 2 and 4 bearings are interchangeable (the bearing caps are not interchangeable) and should be marked at removal to insure correct reassembly. Number 3 bearing, which controls the crankshaft end thrust, is not interchangeable with the others.
The upper and lower halves, however, of Number 3 bearing are interchangeable. Number 5 bearing halves are not interchangeable. Bearing shells are available in standard and the following undersizes: .001, .002, ,003, .010 and
.012 inch. Never install an undersize bearing shell that will reduce the clearance below specifications.
35. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF MAIN
BEARINGS a. Removal
Remove oil pan and mark bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps one at a time.
Remove upper half of bearing by inserting
Tool C-3059 (Fig. 48) in oil hole of crankshaft.
Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out upper half of bearing shell.
b. Checking Main Bearing Clearance
PLASTIGAGE METHOD. Use same technique as described in Paragraph 31.
CAUTION
If bearings are measured with the engine in the chassis, the crankshaft must be supported in order to take up clearance between the upper bearing insert and crankshaft journal. This can be done by snugging bearing caps of adjacent bearings with .005 to .015 inch cardboard between lower bearing shell and journal. Be sure to remove cardboard. Use extreme caution when this is done to avoid unnecessary strain on the crankshaft or bearings or false reading may be obtained. Do not rotate crankshaft while plastigage is installed.
It is permissible to use a .001 inch unfdersize bearing with a standard bearing or a .002 inch
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REMOVING!
Fig. 48—Removing and Installing Main Bearing
Upper Shell bearing. Always use the smaller diameter bearing half as the upper housing half. Never use a new bearing with used bearing and never use an upper bearing half more than .001 inch smaller than the lower bearing half.
c. Installation
NOTE: When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly chamfer the sharp edge from plain side.
Start bearing in place, and insert Tool C-3059 in oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 48). Slowly rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise, sliding bearing into position.
FULL FLOW
OIL FILTER
FILTER BY-PASS
VALVE ASSEMBLY
ANTI DRAIN-BACK
VALVE BODY
REAR MAIN
BEARING CAP
OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
57x228
Fig. 49—Installing By-Pass Valve — Rear Main
Bearing Cap
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE—29
After all bearings have been fitted, tighten
Number 3 (center) main bearing first, and work alternately to both ends. Tighten all caps to 85 foot-pounds torque.
NOTE: Before installing rear main bearing cap, position hollow dowel in cylinder block bore.
See Fig. 49.
Crankshaft end play should be .002 to .007
inch.
36. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
OIL PAN a. Removal
Drain oil and remove dip stick. Disconnect crossover and "Y" pipe at exhaust manifolds and at clamp to exhaust extension so that crossover and "Y" pipe may be moved out of way.
Remove the converter dust shield. Be sure the rest of exhaust system is sufficiently supported.
Loosen distributor cap to prevent interference with the heater housing with engine raised.
Remove starter. Remove nuts from front engine mounts and hoist engine % inch. Rotate the crankshaft until the front counterweight is up (this is done when the timing mark is 180° from the timing pointer). Disconnect steering linkage at idler arm support bracket, and allow linkage to settle away from bottom of pan. Remove bolts that hold pan to cylinder block and remove pan.
b. Installation
Clean pan thoroughly and install new seals and gaskets. End seals should be bottomed in their
PUMP BODY
STRAIGHT EDGE
FEELER STOCK 57x124
Fig. 51—Checking Oil Pump Cover grooves and retained by crimping. Ends of seals should extend approximately %
2
inch higher than the attaching face of oil pan to insure proper sealing. Tighten bolts evenly to 15 footpounds torque. Install exhaust pipes and connect steering linkage. Refill crankcase. See "Lubrication", Section XV.
37. OIL PUMP a. Removed
Remove oil pan, oil pump attaching bolts and remove pump by pulling straight down.
b. Disassembly (Fig. 50)
Remove oil pump cover and oil seal ring. Remove pump rotor and shaft, and lift out pump rotor body. Remove oil pressure relief valve plug, and lift out spring and plunger.
STRAINER AND
SUCTION PIPE
SEAL RING
SEAL RING
OUTER
ROTOR
PLUG
PLUNGER SPRING
RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER
INNER ROTOR
AND SHAFT
COVER LOCKWASHER
PLUG
COVER BOLT 41 57x123
Fig. 50-Oil Pump (Disassembled View) ci * A A DIAMETER
Fig. 52—Measuring Thickness of Outer Rotor
MyMopar.com
30—ENGINE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PUMP BODY OUTER ROTOR
Fig. 53—Measuring Thickness of Pump Rotor
51x67 c. Inspection and Repair
Wash all parts thoroughly. The mating face of oil pump cover should be smooth. Replace cover if it is scratched or grooved.
Lay a straightedge across cover surface
(Fig. 51). If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straightedge, the cover should be replaced. If outer rotor measures less than .998 inch (Fig. 52) and diameter less than 2.244 inches, replace outer rotor. If pump rotor measures less than .998 inch (Fig.
53) a new pump rotor should be installed.
Slide outer rotor and rotor into pump body and place a straightedge across face (between bolt holes), as shown in Figure 54. If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between rotors and straightedge, replace pump body. Remove pump rotor and shaft, leaving outer rotor in pump cavity. Press rotor body to one side with fingers and measure clearance between outer rotor and pump body, (Fig. 55).
If measurement is more than .012 inch, replace oil pump body. If clearance between pump rotor and outer rotor (Fig. 56) is more than .010
inch, replace pump rotor and outer rotor. Check
FEELER STOCK •
57x126
Fig. 55—Measuring Clearance between Outer Rotor and Oil Pump Body oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring and for free operation in its bore. If plunger is scored, replace plunger. The spring should conform to Specifications on chart. If, for any reason, the spring has to be replaced, the same color spring should be used. An exception is where oil pressure is either above or below specifications. When assembling oil pump, be sure to use a new oil seal ring between cover and body. Tighten cover bolts to 10 foot-pounds torque. Prime the oil pump.
RELIEF VALVE SPRING CHART
Color
Free
Height
Under
Load
Height
Tension
Pounds
Gray (Lt.). .
3 y
32
inch
Red (Std.)..
227/
32
inch
Brown (Hvy.
)23i/
32 inch
2%
6
inch
2y
16
inch
16.1 to 17.1
19.5 to 20.5
2y
16
inch 22.0 to 23.9
d. Installation
Make sure rear main bearing cap hollow dowel is in position in cylinder block, as shown in
OUTER ROTOR INNER ROTOR
FEELER STOCK
STRAIGHT EDGE < < V K r 57
X
)27
Fig. 54—Measuring Clearance over Oil Pump Rotor
FEELER STOCK
w
# 57x125 »
Fig. 56—Measuring Clearance Between Pump Rotors
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FILTER SHELL
ENGINE—31
38. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
OIL FILTER
Remove the shell retaining center bolt and lift off outer shell and gasket. (Fig. 57). Remove filter element. Remove filter base attaching bolts and filter base if necessary.
Use new gaskets, reinstall filter base and new
\
SHELL GASKET
FILTER ELEMENT
-(CARTRIDGE)
M O U N T I N G BOLT
•LOCKWASHER
OIL FILTER BASE
MOUNTING GASKET
/ to/ ha:/
^ ~ y
51x715A
Fig. 57-Full Flow Type Oil Filter (Disassembled View)
Figure 49. Align tank on oil pump shaft with slot on distributor lower drive shaft. Install oil pump to rear main bearing cap. Tighten mounting bolts to 33 foot-pounds torque.
After oil pump has been installed, check alignment of strainer. The bottom of strainer must be on a horizontal plane with machined surface of cylinder block. The foot on the strainer should touch bottom of oil pan.
Fig. 58-lnstalling Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal filter element. Install outer shell and tighten center bolt securely.
NOTE: FirePower Engine—Remove air cleaner. Loosen oil filter. Raise car. Remove filter from below car.
39. REPLACEMENT OF REAR MAIN BEARING
OIL SEAL (Crankshaft removed)
Remove old oil seals from cylinder block and bearing cap. Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in block so that both ends protrude.
Tap seal down into position using Tool C-3574 on the FirePower Engines and Tool C-3020 on the SpitFire Engines until tool is seated in bearing bore. Hold tool in this position, and cut off portion*bf seal that extends above block on both sides.
Install a new seal in bearing cap (bearing shell removed) so that the ends protrude. (Fig.
58.) Tap seal down into position with Tool C-
3511 (left-hand view), until tool is seated. Trim off portion of seal that protrudes above cap
(right-hand view). Install two cap side seals in grooves in cap. Care should be used when installing these seals as they are NOT inter-
MyMopar.com
32—ENGINE
OUTER CUP
INSTALL INDEX MARK
T O W A R D ENGINE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL changeable from left to right or from (Spitfire) to (Firepower) engines. The seal with the longer body should be installed on the oil filter side of the block. Seals incorrectly installed will cause an oil leak.
INSULATOR A N D
BOLT ASSEMBLY
FRAME BRACKET
LOCKWASHER
PLATE
NUT
58x33
Fig. 59—Front Engine Mounting (Disassembled View)
40. REMOVAL OF FRONT ENGINE
MOUNTINGS (Fig. 59)
Remove nut, washer and lockwasher from underside of frame bracket. Place jack under engine toward front of bottom portion of oil pan.
Remove nuts, bolts from each mount.
41. ENGINE WILL NOT START
SERVICE
Possible Causes: a. Weak battery.
b. Overheated engine.
c. Low compression.
d. Corroded or loose battery terminal connections.
e. Weak coil.
f. Broken or loose ignition wires.
g. Dirty or corroded distributor contact points.
h. Defective ignition switch.
i. Moisture on ignition wires, caps, or plugs.
j . Cracked distributor cap.
k. Fouled spark plugs
1. Stuck valves.
m. Improper spark plug gap.
n. Improper timing (ignition).
o. Damaged distributor rotor.
p. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.
q. Ice in carburetor or fuel line.
r. Carburetor flooded.
s. Fuel level in carburetor bowl not correct.
DIAGNOSIS
t. Insufficient supply of fuel.
u. Defective fuel pump.
v. Vapor lock.
w. Sticking choke.
x. Defective starting motor or solenoid.
y. Defective neutral switch.
42. ENGINE STALLS
Possible Causes: a. Idling speed too low.
b. Needle valve and seat in carburetor stuck.
c. Idle mixture too lean or too rich.
d. Carburetor flooding.
e. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.
f. Frozen gas line.
g. Incorrect carburetor float level.
h. Leak in intake manifold, distributor vacuum line or carburetor mounting gaskets.
i. Worn accelerator pump. (Stall occurs on acceleration.) j. Improper choke adjustment.
k. Choke sticking.
1. Carburetor icing (cold, wet weather).
m. Excessive pressures (air conditioning).
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL n. Loose ignition wires.
p. Weak battery.
q. Loose ignition switch connection.
r. Spark plugs/ dirty, damp, or gaps incorrectly set.
s. Distributor advance not operating.
t. Defective coil or condenser.
u. Distributor points dirty, burned, or incorrectly spaced.
v. Exhaust system restricted.
w. Trailing edge of rotor worn.
x. Leaks in ignition wiring.
y. Incorrect valve tappet clearance. (C-300) z. Burned valves.
aa. Low compression.
bb. Engine overheating.
cc. Use of winter fuels in hot weather.
43. ENGINE HAS NO POWER
Possible Causes: a. Torque converter stator assembled in reverse.
b. Incorrect ignition timing.
c. Weak coil or condenser.
d. Stiff accelerator linkage.
e. Trailing edge of rotor worn.
f. Defective mechanical or vacuum advance
(distributor).
g. Hydraulic tappet pump up (high speed).
h. Excessive play in distributor shaft.
i. Weak spring in contact points.
j. Distributor cam worn.
k. Spark plugs dirty or gap incorrectly set.
1. Insufficient point dwell.
m. Fouled spark plugs.
n. Low grade fuel.
o. Weak valve springs.
p. Carburetor in poor condition.
ENGINE—33
q. Valves sticking when hot.
r. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.
s. Ice in gas line or carburetor.
t. Improper carburetor float level.
u. Worn camshaft lobes.
v. Defective fuel pump.
w. Pistons or pins fit tight.
x. Valve timing incorrect.
y. Too rich or lean fuel mixture.
z. Incorrect valve tappet clearance (C-300).
aa. Blown cylinder head gasket.
bb. Low compression.
cc. Flow control valve not operating (Power
Steering).
dd. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.
ee. Spark plug breakdown under load.
ff. Plugged, restricted, or damaged muffler or tail pipe.
gg. Brakes dragging.
hh. Tight wheel bearings.
ii. Clutch slipping. (If so equipped.) jj. Engine overheating.
kk. Detonation.
11. Stuck transmission regulate r valve.
mm. Improper ignition or battery ground.
44. ENGINE "LOPES" OR MISSES (AT IDLE)
Possible Causes: a. Air leak between intake manifold and heads due to retaining bolts bottoming or damaged gasket.
b. Incorrect carburetor idle adjustment.
c. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.
d. Dirty jets or plugged passages in carburetor.
e. Incorrect valve tappet clearance. (C-300).
f. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.
g. Incorrect ignition timing.
h. Leaks in ignition wiring.
MyMopar.com
34—ENGINE
i. Blown head gasket.
j . Air leak at carburetor mounting gasket.
k. Worn lobes on the camshaft.
1. Moisture on ignition wires, cap, or plugs.
m. Worn timing chain.
n. Defective spark advance mechanism.
©. Sticking valves.
p. Excessive play in distributor shaft.
q. Distributor cam worn.
r. Inoperative choke.
s. Spark plugs damp, dirty, or the gaps set too close.
t. Overheated engine.
u. Weak battery.
v. Uneven compression.
w. Low grade of fuel. (Winter fuel used in summer.) x. Flooding carburetor.
y. Carburetor icing (cold, damp weather).
45. ENGINE MISSES WHILE IDLING
Possible Causes: a. Spark plugs dirty, damp, or gap incorrectly set.
b. Broken or loose ignition wires.
c. Burned or pitted contact points, or points set with insufficient gap.
d. Coil or condenser defective.
e. Weak battery.
*- Distributor cap cracked.
g. Trailing edge of rotor worn.
h. Moisture on ignition wires, cap, or plugs.
i. Excessive play in distributor shaft.
j . Distributor sha,f t cam worn.
k. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.
1. Incorrect valve tappet clearance. (C-300.) m. Incorrect carburetor idle adjustment.
n. Improper carburetor float level.
o. Low compression.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
46. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED
Possible Causes:
a. Dirt or water in gas line or carburetor.
b. Dirty jets in carburetor, especially the economizer jet.
c. Weak coil or condenser.
d. Incorrect ignition timing.
e. Distributor points dirty or incorrectly spaced.
f. Trailing edge of rotor worn.
g. Loose ignition wiring.
h. Excessive play in distributor shaft.
i. Spark plugs fouled, damp, or dirty, or the gaps set too wide.
j . Insufficient point dwell.
k. Insufficient spring tension on points.
1. Normal hydraulic tappet pump up.
m. Worn camshaft lobes.
n. Weak valve springs.
0. Abnormal resistance in spark plugs.
p. Distributor cam lobe worn.
q. Engine overheating.
r. Low grade fuel.
s. Badly worn diaphragm in fuel pump.
t. Detonation or pre-ignition.
u. Frozen heat control valve.
47. EXTERNAL OIL LEAKAGE
Possible Causes:
a. Outside oil lines.
b. Timing chain case cover oil seal.
c. Rear main bearing oil seal.
d. Oil pan gaskets.
e. Oil pan drain plug.
f. Oil filter gasket.
g. Clogged rear camshaft bearing drain hole.
h. Tappet cover gaskets.
1. Fuel pump gasket.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL j. Timing chain cover gasket.
48. OIL PUMPING PAST PISTON RINGS
Possible Causes: a. Oil level too high, (a) Dip stick not entering oil pan far enough, (b) Dip stick incorrectly marked.
b Loose main or connecting rod bearings.
NOTE: Excessive bearing clearance will cause the cylinder walls to be flooded with oil.
c. Too light oil for the type of service and conditions.
d. Excessively hot operating temperatures.
e. Piston ring gaps not staggered or incorrect size rings used.
f. Incorrect set of piston rings or rings butof-round.
g. Cylinder head improperly torqued, causing a distortion of the cylinder bores for which the piston rings cannot compensate.
h. Rings fitted too tight in piston.
i. Oil rings carboned up or return grooves in piston clogged.
j. Insufficient piston ring tension.
NOTE: Common condition after engine has overheated.
k. Compression rings installed upside-down.
1. Excessive oil pressure or broken piston rings.
m. Burned piston.
NOTE: This condition can be brought about by excessive detonation and pre-ignition.
n. Scored cylinder walls or piston rings.
o. Excessively worn rings or cylinder walls.
NOTE: This condition can be traced to one or more of the following:
(1) Normal wear.
(2) Failure to keep air cleaners, carburetor, and crankcase filler cap installed and serviced.
ENGINE—35
(3) Failure to service the oil filter.
(4) Careless filling of the oil pan by allowing dirt or foreign material to fall in.
(5) Failure to clean cylinder walls properly after reboring or honing.
(6) Failure to prevent grindings and stone dust from getting on cylinder walls or improper cleaning of valve ports after grinding seats.
(7) Use of rings with heavier wall tension than necessary.
(8) Excessive speeding of a cold engine. In addition to the foregoing, many engines are overhauled for excessive use of oil or smoking without any degree of success because the actual cause may be due to any one or more of the following.
(9) Excessive clearance between valve guide and valve stem.
(10) Diaphragm of fuel pump porous.
(11) External oil leaks.
(12) Internal oil leak into cooling system.
49. OIL PUMPING AT VALVE GUIDES
Possible Causes: a. Worn valve stems or guides.
b. Intake valve stem guide in inverted position. (FirePower engine.) c. Intake valve seals damaged or missing.
50. HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION DUE TO
LUBRICATING OIL
Possible Causes: a. Oil level too high.
b. Contaminated oil.
c. Poor grade of oil.
d. Thin, diluted oil.
e. Oil pressure too high.
f. Sludge in engine.
51. HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION-
MISCELLANEOUS
Possible Causes:
MyMopar.com
36—ENGINE
a. Overheated engine.
b. Sustained high speeds.
c. Misadjusted breather cap, causing excessive crankcase ventilation.
Certain mechanical conditions can affect engine oil pressure readings. In order to aid in determining the cause, the following conditions and possible causes are listed.
52. NO OIL PRESSURE WHEN ENGINE IS
FIRST STARTED
Possible Causes: a. Oil from the oil galleries and oil filter has drained back into the oil pan when the engine was shut off.
b. Frozen or partially clogged oil gauge line.
53. NO OIL PRESSURE AT IDLE
Possible Causes: a. Oil gauge not registering properly, due to higher than normal pressure required to start gauge registering.
b. Excessive oil pump rotor end clearance.
c. Stuck oil pump relief valve.
d. Loose main and connecting rod bearings.
e. Loose camshaft bearings.
f. Plugs in ends of rocker shafts. Loose or missing.
g. Internal oil passage leakage.
h. Oil pump body cover seal ring blown out or missing.
i. Oil pump body cover seal ring replaced with common gasket.
54. NO OIL PRESSURE ON FAST STARTS
OR RAPID ACCELERATION
Possible Causes: a. Low oil level in oil pan.
b. Oil pump suction tube not aligned, or bent, causing the oil strainer to extend above the oil surface in the pan.
c. The foot on the oil strainer should touch the bottom of the oil pan.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL d. Oil pump rotor pin sheared.
e. Expansion plug missing in oil pump cover.
f. Oil filter and oil filter by-pass plugged.
g. Air leak in oil pump suction tube.
h. Oil pump strainer plugged.
i. Oil pump relief valve stuck open.
j. Internal oil passage leak.
55. BROKEN VALVES
Possible Causes: a. Weak valve springs.
b. Worn valve guides.
c. Excessive tappet clearance. (C-300) d. Cocked springs or retainers.
e. Out-of-round valve seats.
f. Defective valve forgings.
g. Excessive engine speeds.
h. Detonation or pre-ignition.
56. BURNED OR STICKING VALVES
Possible Causes: a. Close tappet clearance. (C-300).
b. Weak valve springs.
c. Gum formations on stem or guide.
d. Eccentric valve face.
e. Deposits on valve seats.
f. Incorrect valve seat width.
g. Improper valve guide clearance.
h. Warped valves.
i. Improper block cooling.
j. Exhaust back pressure.
k. Improper spark timing.
1. Out-of-round valve seat.
57. NOISY VALVES
Possible Causes: a. Incorrect tappet clearance. (C-300).
b. Worn tappets or adjusting screws (C-
300).
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL c. Wear in cam lobes.
d. Worn valve guides.
e. Excessive run-out of valve seat or valve face.
NOTE: When replacing valve guides, be sure the counterbore in guide is up for exhaust and down for intake.
58. BROKEN VALVE SPRINGS
Possible Causes: a. Valve flutter at high speed.
b. Improper crankcase ventilation.
c. Worn timing chain.
d. Cold engine operation due to defective thermostat.
e. Rust, due to improper storage.
f. Coolant leaking into crankcase.
59. VALVE DEPOSITS
Possible Causes: a. Quality of fuel.
b. Quality of lubricating oil.
c. Valve stem wear.
d. Improper cooling of block.
e. Sludged engine.
f. Worn valve guides.
g. Improper lubrication of valve stem.
h. Excessive engine idling.
i. Rich carburetor setting.
When diagnosing the cause of valve failure, it must be remembered that a valve can only transfer its heat through the valve seats and guides, to the cooling system. There is only one basic cause for valve failure and that is the inability of a valve to dissipate its heat into the cooling system as rapidly as necessary.
The following information is presented as an aid in diagnosing valve failure and also to help in preventing a recurrence.
ENGINE—37
60. CONDITIONS WHICH CAN CAUSE BOTH
INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVE FAILURE a. Deposits on the upper part of the valve stems which prevents full seating of the valves.
b. Sludge deposits on the end of the valves and springs cause the valves to stick. These deposits are caused by poor maintenance of the engine oil or filter, low engine operating temperatures due to an inoperative thermostat, or short intermittent engine operation. The latter condition does not allow the engine to reach operating temperature to evaporate the condensation in the crankcase. Extremely slow driving of the vehicle does not induce sufficient crankcase ventilation to remove condensation.
c. Insufficient tappet clearance or operating clearance between tappet plunger and bottom of tappet body (hydraulic tappets).
On hydraulic tappets, this condition is usually caused by excessive valve face and seat regrinding which allows the valve stems to extend too far out of the guides.
Sufficient clearance is very important and will insure complete closing of the valves when the engine is hot.
d. Valves or seats that are not ground concentric with the valve guide. This can be due to worn refacing equipment. Valve-to-seat contact should be checked with a film of Prussian blue.
e. Improper valve seat width. Recondition valve faces and seats as directed in Paragraph
12.
f. Valve and valve seat not refaced to a 45 degree angle, due to worn or inaccurate equipment.
g. Excessively refaced valves. The distance between the top edge of the valve face and the top of the valve must not be less than %
4
inch.
Discard any valve that does not meet specifications.
h. Incorrect valve timing.
i. Excessive valve guide wear. Worn guides will not provide proper cooling and permit oil to be sucked into the intake ports causing a carbon formation which could lead to valve sticking.
MyMopar.com
38—ENGINE j. Restrictions in the cooling passages around the valve seats caused by excessive scale and rust deposits. This is the result of not using a rust inhibitor in the cooling system.
k. Engine overheating to such a degree that there is insufficient coolant remaining in the engine to dissipate the valve heat.
61. CONDITIONS WHICH CAN CAUSE INTAKE
VALVE FAILURE a. Sticking valves. This condition can be brought about by heavy carbon and/or a varnish deposit on the valve stems and heads. Gum forms as a result of the exposure of gasoline to air for an extended period. In some cases where gum and varnish have deposited on the valve stem, valve sticking has occurred while the engine was hot and operating under power.
A good idle might be obtained while such an engine was relatively cool.
Cars which have been improperly prepared for extended storage or have been using fuel from bulk storage that is used very little—such as on a farm or ranch during the winter months
—are susceptible to this type of valve sticking.
Heavy carbon deposits can result from short trip operation.
Rust. This condition results from prolonged storage without proper preparation.
b. Valve dishing and valve face grooving are usually the result of overheating. Overheating can be aggravated by, or attributed to, pre-ignition or detonation.
62. CONDITIONS WHICH CAN CAUSE
EXHAUST VALVE FAILURE a. Back-pressure due to restrictions in the exhaust system which prevent rapid expulsion of the hot gases.
b. Excessively lean fuel-air mixtures.
c. Carburetion (improper size jets.) d. Air leaking into the intake manifold.
e. Air leak at carburetor mounting or throttle body gaskets.
f. Air leaks in vacuum line for booster brakes or other vacuum-operated accessories.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL g. Improper ignition timing.
h. Detonation or pre-ignition.
i. Overloading engine by pulling heavy house trailers, luggage trailers, or boat trailers.
k. Low grade fuel.
1. Heat control valve stuck in the closed position.
As a matter of interest, broken or cracked exhaust valve seats, as well as cylinder heads with cracks radiating out from an exhaust valve port, can be traced to prolonged operation with burned or leaking exhaust valves.
63. PISTON RING NOISE
Possible Causes: a. Broken ring.
b. Top ring striking cylinder ridge.
c. Broken ring lands.
d. Excessive side clearance in groove.
64. PISTON NOISE
Possible Causes: a. Piston pin fits too tight or too loose.
b. Excessive piston-to-bore clearance.
c. Carbon accumulation in head.
d. Collapsed piston skirt.
e. Insufficient clearance at top ring land.
f. Broken piston skirt, or ring land.
g. Misaligned connecting rods.
65. CONNECTING ROD NOISE
Possible Causes: a. Low oil pressure.
b. Insufficient oil supply.
c. Thin or diluted oil.
d. Misaligned rods.
e. Excessive bearing clearance.
f. Eccentric or out-of-round crank pin journal.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
66. MAIN BEARING NOISE
Possible Causes: a. Low oil pressure.
b. Insufficient oil supply.
c. Thin or diluted oil.
d. Loose vibration damper or torque converter.
e. Excessive bearing clearance.
f. Excessive end play.
g. Eccentric or out-of-round journals.
h. Sprung crankshaft.
i. Excessive belt tension.
67. BROKEN PISTON RINGS
Possible Causes: a. Wrong type or size.
b. Detonation.
c. Undersize pistons.
d. Pre-ignition.
e. Ring striking top ridge.
f. Worn ring grooves.
g. Rings assembled improperly.
h. Broken ring lands.
i. Insufficient gap clearance.
j. Excessive side clearance in groove.
kc Uneven cylinder walls (particularly due to a previous ring breakage in same cylinder).
68. BROKEN PISTONS
Possible Causes: a. Undersize pistons.
b. Eccentric or tapered cylinders.
c. Misaligned connecting rod.
d. Engine overheating.
e. Water or fuel leakage into combustion chamber.
f. Detonation or pre-ignition.
ENGINE—39
69. DETONATION
Detonation, pre-ignition, and after-running are abnormal types of combustion. Normal combustion starts at the spark plug and the flame expands to the extremes of the combustion chamber. During the short period of combustion, a high pressure is produced which pushes down on the piston to develop engine power.
Detonation occurs after the spark plug fires, when some of the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber is ignited by spontaneous combustion before the flame reaches it. The mixture is burned much more rapidly than during normal combustion. Thus, detonation produces excessive temperatures and pressures. Detonation is most easily recognized by a pinging sound during acceleration or continuous wide open throttle operation, such as climbing a steep hill.
A detonation complaint is usually concerned with the noise that is produced. Although a mild case of detonation will not damage an engine, excessive detonation may result in engine failure caused by the excessive temperatures and pressures. Detonation can cause broken piston rings, broken and burned piston ring lands, blown cylinder head gaskets, and short bearing life.
Detonation is caused primarily by the following: a. Advanced spark timing.
b. Combustion chamber deposits.
c. Low octane fuels.
d. Excessively high coolant or air temperatures.
When correcting a detonation complaint the first thing to check is the spark timing as directed in Paragraph 73. If detonation persists at the proper timing, the distributor should be removed and checked to see if it conforms to spark advance specifications. The spark advance mechanism should be repaired if necessary. Further investigation depends on the type of operation. If the vehicle is used primarily for light duty, the detonation probably results from excessive combustion chamber deposits. These should be removed.
MyMopar.com
40—ENGINE
70. PRE-IGNITION
Pre-ignition is the burning of the air-fuel mixture before the spark plug fires. The mixture is ignited by a hot spot in the combustion chamber. Since this is equivalent to advancing the spark, it results in higher temperatures and pressures in the combustion chamber than those produced during normal combustion.
Sometimes, pre-ignition produces a pinging sound which is louder than detonation. If preignition occurs early on the compression stroke, it is not audible. If it occurs before the intake valve closes, the engine will backfire through the air cleaner.
In many cases, it is difficult to distinguish between audible pre-ignition and detonation; in fact, they may occur simultaneously. Audible pre-ignition may be isolated from detonation by accelerating the vehicle at wide open throttle
(not above 2000 rpm) until the loud pinging is heard and then turning off the ignition. If the engine continues to fire, it is pre-ignition; if it ceases to fire, the engine is detonating. Remove the foot from accelerator pedal before turning on the ignition again.
Often, inaudible pre-ignition is difficult to distinguish during operation, but it can be recognized by the failures it can produce, as noted below. If the engine back-fires through the air cleaner during wide open throttle operation, a colder set of plugs should be installed. If the back-firing ceases, it was probably caused by pre-ignition. If the engine continues to backfire, it is caused by other factors, such as faulty ignition, incorrect carburetor mixture, incorrect valve timing, or a worn camshaft.
Inaudible pre-ignition cannot be recognized until a piston or valve failure occurs. It is generally caused by a hot spark plug, or advanced ignition timing. Check spark plug type and set ignition timing as described below. ALWAYS
USE SPECIFIED SPARK PLUGS.
71. HOT STARTING NOISE
A form of audible pre-ignition sometimes occurs when a hot engine is started. Usually, the noise is limited to two or three sharp raps which are heard just as the engine begins to fire. This condition does not cause damage to the engine and is common with high compres-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL sion engines. It cannot be eliminated by retarding ignition timing or changing spark plugs.
Slow cranking speed may accompany the hot starting noise.
72. AFTER-RUNNING
After-running is a compression ignition of the engine at very slow speeds after the ignition has been turned off.
This condition is a source of irritation to the owner but it does not cause engine failure.
After-running is primarily caused by one or more of the following factors: a. Fast idle speed.
b. High coolant temperatures.
c. Combustion chamber deposits.
After-running js generally caused by fast idle speed or cutting the ignition before the engine throttles down to idle. The idle speed should be properly adjusted and the owner questioned as to whether he has the habit of pumping the accelerator pedal before turning off the ignition.
If this does not correct the complaint, the vehicle should be checked for overheating.
If the vehicle has been used primarily for light duty operation, some highway operation will remove combustion chamber deposits which may eliminate the complaint.
This complaint cannot be corrected with cold spark plugs.
73. IGNITION TIMING
Due to normal variations between engines in their fuel requirements, high altitude operation
(which results in a richer fuel mixture that reduces the octane requirements of the engine), and the variations in octane ratings of the fuels being marketed, the established ignition timing setting of 6 degrees BTDC for the V-8 engines should be considered a basic or starting point when tuning an engine. As a result of the conditions mentioned, a variation of plus or minus
6 degrees from the starting setting is permissible.
CAUTION
The advancing of timing in excess of 6 degrees of the basic setting is not recommended, as in-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL audible pre-ignition could be encountered under some operating conditions at high speeds.
When tuning an engine to obtain maximum performance, economy, and smooth operation, and to take advantage of variations in octane requirements, it is desirable to make the final ignition timing during actual road test. Should the final timing be made during the road test, it is suggested the following procedures be followed : a. Set the ignition timing at 6 degrees
BTDC.
b. Drive the vehicle until normal operating temperature has been reached.
c. While in high gear, decelerate the car to
20 mph or just before the transmission downshifts; then, with a wide open throttle, accelerate to about 40 mph. Without downshifting to second gear.
d. During this wide open throttle operation, if a slight unobjectionable pinging or detonation is heard that disappears as the car approaches 40 mph, the timing can be considered to be the best setting; however, if the pinging or detonation is objectionable, the timing should be retarded 1 degree at a time until the proper setting has been reached.
74. TAPPET STARTING NOISE
This is a condition where the tappets are noisy upon starting and remain so for approximately
5 or 10 minutes, or until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
Possible Causes: a. Engine oil drain-back.
If the anti-drain back valve leaks, the oil drains out of the oil galleries and drilled passages into the oil pan. This occurs when the engine is not operating. Upon starting, it is necessary that the oil pump refill the system and, at the same time, force the air that entered the system out of the engine through the tappets.
Until the oil system has been refilled and all the air bled out, noisy tappets may be experienced.
b. Filter change.
This may cause the same condition as above, and for the same reasons. Air trapped in the lubricating system may require a minimum of
ENGINE—41
20 to 30 minutes to bleed out. When changing an oil filter element, there is always a possibility that air may be trapped in the cover of the filter and not work out through the tappets until some time later, after the tappets have originally quieted.
c. Tappet varnish.
The problem of tappet varnish will not necessarily hinder the tappets since they are designed to allow the varnish to build up in areas that do not affect their operation. There is, however, a condition in which a varnish-coated tappet can possibly cause trouble; this is when a valve has been replaced. A new valve can effectively change the length of the valve mechanism and thereby allow the tappet plunger to operate in a new position in the body which may have a varnish build-up and result in the plunger sticking.
d. Anti-freeze.
Starting noise can also be caused by a gummy deposit, which results from leakage of antifreeze or glycol into the engine oil. When cold, this deposit will be hard, but when hot, it becomes soft and gummy. This is another reason excessive tappet noise can be experienced when starting and gradually disappear as the gummy substance softens and allows the plungers to assume their normal operating positions. If this deposit is permitted to remain, it can eventually cause scuffing of the hydraulic tappet plunger.
e. Normal tappet leakdown.
This condition occurs on all engines and is due to the normal leakdown of the tappets that remain under valve spring pressure when the engine is shut off. The expulsion of air and the duration for quieting these particular tappets is dependent on the clearance to which the tappet plunger body has been fitted. The closer the fit, the longer the noise will persist.
75. ALL TAPPETS NOISY
In cases where all 16 tappets are noisy, it is generally safe to assume that the noise is not the fault of the tappets, but of the oil supply, which is inadequate, or into which air has been induced. No advantage can be gained by installing 16 new tappets unless they are found to be stuck due to an anti-freeze leak. In this case it is imperative that the leak be corrected to prevent reoccurrence.
MyMopar.com
42—ENGINE
Possible Causes: a. Drain plug out of oil pan.
The loss of the drain plug from the oil pan will result in the loss of oil and oil pump pressure.
b. Plug out of the oil pump cover.
A plug out of the oil pump cover will permit the majority of oil from the pump to escape back into the oil pan. This usually shows up as fluctuation or low oil pressure on the gauge.
c. Oil strainer improperly located in pan.
When this occurs, tappet noise may occur shortly after a turn, stop, or fast acceleration. This condition may also be detected by close observation of the oil pressure gauge.
d. Low oil level.
Low oil level permits the oil strainer to become uncovered while accelerating, stopping, or turning. Air will be pumped into the lubrication system when this happens.
e. Plugged oil screen.
A plugged oil screen is generally due to inadequate oil and/or filter change periods for the type of operation.
f. Oil pump relief valve stuck.
When this condition occurs, it usually permits pressure to be normal at higher speeds while falling below normal at low engine speeds or at idle. Normal oil pressure for a warm engine at idle is considered to be 12 psi or more at 500 rpm.
g. A major oil pressure drop is generally caused by excessive bearing clearance, etc., which permits excessive leakage of hot engine oil and reduces the pressure of oil delivered to the tappets below the minimum required for quiet and proper operation of the tappet.
h. Oil foaming.
This is a condition where a large quantity of air bubbles are trapped in the oil, producing a condition of foaming or sudsing (aeration).
Since air unlike oil, is compressible, tappet noise or loss of valve lift will result when the aerated oil enters the tappet.
i. Excessive oil supply.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
When the oil level is too high in the oil pan, the crankshaft and connecting rods dip into the oil and churn it, causing an aerated condition.
j. Low oil supply.
This condition permits the reuse of a small quantity of oil which does not have sufficient time to cool and rid itself of the normal air induced into the oil.
k. Air entering the oil pump.
This condition can be caused by an improperly located oil screen, a leak in the suction tube, loose oil pump cover, etc. In all cases, air will be drawn into the oil pump and induced into the oil.
1. Plug out of oil pump cover.
A plug that is loose or missing out of the oil pump cover will cause excessive by-passing and aeration of the oil.
m. Prolonged use of engine oil.
Where operating conditions are such that the majority of driving is slow or short and intermittent, not permitting the engine to warm up to operating temperature, it is possible for normal condensation to build up in the crankcase to a point where it will cause the oil to foam.
n. Water from the cooling system leaking into the engine oil.
Water from the cooling system leaking into engine oil will cause excessive oil foaming.
o. Glycol in the engine oil.
When glycol leaks into the engine lubrication system it has a tendency to form a gummy substance which deposits on the engine parts. This substance will normally affect the operation of the hydraulic tappets, first by causing sticking, and then gradually causing the tappets to scuff and become increasingly noisy until they reach a point where the plungers will stick completely.
This is the only condition which may require the replacement of all 16 tappets. However, unless the leak is corrected, it will repeat itself.
76. ONE OR MORE TAPPETS NOISY
Possible Causes: a. Excessive dry lash.
The term of dry lash refers to the clearance
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL between the valve stem and rocker arm when the tappet is on the heel of the cam lobe and the plunger is bottomed in the tappet body. The normal clearance is .060 to .210 inch, and any lash exceeding .210 inch could cause a tappet to be noisy. A condition of excessive dry lash usually indicates wear.
To determine if proper dry lash is the problem, insert a Vs inch (.125) feeler between the rocker arm and the valve stem; then, start the engine. If the noise has disappeared it is quite possible it was caused by a worn rocker arm or push rod.
b. Broken valve spring.
c. Sticking rocker arm.
This could be the result of any condition that prevents free movement of the rocker arm on the rocker shaft.
d. Worn rocker arm.
This condition is usually due to lack of hardness of the rocker arm or push rod end, and can be detected by the dry lash test as described above.
e. Face of rocker arm not true.
When this condition is present, it will be noted that the rocker arm is making contact on the edge of the valve stem. This can cause a valve cocking condition and result in the valve stem to ride heavy or bind in the guide.
f. Push rods worn, bent, or interfering (in head).
A worn push rod can be identified by a worn spot on one end. This can be caused by insufficient lubrication. Check holes in arm and rocker shaft.
When installing a new rocker arm, be sure the lubricating oil holes are open.
Worn, bent, or interfering push rods can be detected by the dry lash test, as described above.
A bent push rod is generally caused by mishandling and can result in the cylinder head or increased dry lash.
The push rod interference in the cylinder head can be caused by inadequate clearance in the push rod passages through the cylinder heads. If this condition is found, it is only ne-
ENGINE-43
cessary to relieve the ends of the hole at the top and bottom.
g. Tight tappet.
While rare, this condition occurs where the tappet or the tappet bore is of incorrect size, bell-mouthed, or out-of-round, causing the tappet to stick in its bore. A condition of this nature is indicated by heavy wear or scuff marks on portions of the side of the tappet body. Unless the tappet bores in the cylinder block are cleaned up, the same condition will occur with a replacement tappet. To check bore, slide a new tappet in and out. If the tappet sticks, ream bore to next oversize and install new oversize tappet.
h. Stuck hydraulic tappet plungers.
This condition is where a tappet plunger is stuck in the tappet body and is unable to compensate for changes in the valve train clearance.
Extended engine operation at high speed with this condition existing, could cause valve breakage. Three basic causes for this condition are:
Dirt or metal chips; glycol in the lubricating oil; and, the mismatching of parts in assembly after cleaning.
Varnish build-up around the top of the tappet above the operating range of the plunger is a normal condition, therefore, it should not be confused with a stuck tappet in which the plunger will normally be found stuck below the operating range.
i. Valve stem varnish.
Occasionally, this condition may occur where a heavy deposit of varnish has adhered to the valve stem and restricts the movement of the valve in the guide.
j. Faulty tappets.
This is caused by conditions that may be inherent in the individual tappets, such as bent valve washers, omitted valve washers, tight plunger caps, improperly fitted retainer, bad flat valve or valve seat, a plugged or missing oil hole in the tappet body or plunger, or a loose plunger to body fit that causes a fast leakdown under spring pressure. (The latter usually shows up at idle when the oil is hot.)
Since the hydraulic tappet is not reparable, only those determined to be faulty should be
MyMopar.com
44—ENGINE
replaced. The replacement of any tappets other than the individual ones causing the condition, would serve no purpose.
k. Worn valve guide.
Tappet noise can also be caused by a guide that is worn .015 inch or more, or by a valve that is bent to a point where it will actually hang up in the guide. Valves can be bent in the field when attempting to compress a valve spring on an engine with the piston up or near
TDC, or by failing to use the proper head holding fixtures, Tool C-3209, when the heads have been removed for repairs.
1. Tappet oil feed hole plugged or restricted.
In many cases where a tappet has been removed for being noisy, it has been found that the oil feed hole in the tappet or the cylinder block was restricted or plugged. This condition is due to varnish, sludge, dirt, or other foreign materials. Again this condition can be attributed to infrequent filter element or oil change. Before installing any tappet, it is a good policy to run a drill rod or drill into the feed hole to make sure it is open. Be sure no burr is left in the tappet bore after opening with rod.
m. Worn tappet or camshaft lobe.
There have been instances where scoring starts between the cam lobe and the face of the tappet, in the same manner as any other bearing surface. When this condition occurs, it can result in damage not only to the face of the tappet, but to the camshaft lobe as well. It will produce tappet noise and a lack of engine performance.
This condition can be determined by measuring the lift of the valve. The lift can be measured by bottoming the tappet in the same way as checking for valve timing, by inserting a shim of sufficient size to take up the dry lash.
The lift of the valve can then be measured with a dial indicator and compared with other valves shimmed in the same manner. The normal valve lift should be approximately .360 inch. Since
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL wear of up to .030 inch is permissible, the mileage of the engine, as well as the comparison check with other cylinders, should be taken into consideration before a decision is reached to replace the camshaft. When tappets and/or camshaft replacement is necessary due to excessive wear, a very thorough cleaning of the lubricating system should be performed, or else the particles of worn metal that have deposited out of the oil will cause a reocurrence of the same trouble.
77. INTERMITTENT TAPPET NOISE
Possible Causes: a. Aerated or foaming oil.
This is a condition where a large quantity of air bubbles are trapped in the oil, producing a condition of foaming or sudsing (aeration).
Since air, unlike oil, is compressible, tappet noise or loss of valve lift will result when the aerated oil enters the tappet.
b. Defective tappets.
Although these defects cannot be corrected in the field, and therefore require replacement of the individual tappet, the following is presented to point out possible defects: c. Extremely wide seat on the lapped seat of the tappet plunger.
d. Insufficient check valve travel to compensate for various speeds.
e. Out-of-round tappet plunger.
78. TAPPET CLEANING
When cleaning tappets (if needed) at the time of engine overhaul or valve grind, it should be done in accordance with the procedure described in this section. Extreme precautions must be taken to be sure that all work be done in clean surroundings and using clean materials. If the cleanliness precautions are not observed, it is more than likely the effort will be wasted and noisy or stuck tappets can be expected.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—1
Section VIII
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
CONTENTS
Page
Fuel Pump 3
Servicing the Fuel Pump 4
The Vapor Separator 5
Service Diagnosis 6
Carburetor BBD-2685S Disassembly 7
Carburetor Assembly 11
Carburetor Adjustments 14
Carburetors AFB-2650S-2651S Disassembly 18
Carburetor Assembly 21
Carburetor Adjustments 24
Service Diagnosis 26
Servicing the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds 27
Manifold Heat Control Valve 31
Service Diagnosis 32
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
LC-1 LC-2 LC-3 MODEL
FUEL PUMP
Make . .
Model
Type
Driven By
Pump Pressure (pounds)
Carter
M-2663S
Mechanical
Camshaft
5 to 7
Carter
M-2663S
Mechanical
Camshaft
5 to 7
Carter
M-2663S
Mechanical
Camshaft
5 to 7
CARBURETOR
Make . . . . . .
Type
Ball and Ball
Dual Downdraft
BBD-2685S
Carter
4 Barrel
Downdraft
AFB-2650S Model
THROTTLE BORE (Primary and Secondary) 1% inch
Carter
4 Barrel
Downdraft
AFB-2651S
1% inch
LY-1
Carter
M-2663S
Mechanical
Camshaft
5 to 7
Carter
4 Barrel
Downdraft
AFB-2651S
1
7
/(Q inch
MyMopar.com
2—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Cont.d)
LC-1 LC-2 LC-3 MODEL LY-1
MAIN VENTURE
Primary and Secondary
LOW SPEED JET PRIMARY. ..
ADJUSTMENTS
Idle Mixture (both screws)
Idle Speed
Accelerator Pump
One Full Turn
Open
500 rpm.
1\4> in. -f- or
-Vu
Pump Setting (top of Plunger to
Air Horn)
Float Setting (casting to top of
Floats) . . .
Float Drop
y _i_ or — YA
Choke Unloader (wide open kick).
Choke Setting
34 inch
One Notch Rich
Fast Idle .015 inch l%i inch
.031 inch
One Full Turn
Open
500 rpm.
Middle Hole of
Arm
.429 or ?/fg inch
% inch
^ inch
34 inch
One Notch Rich
.012 inch
1% inch
.031 inch
One Full Turn
Open
500 rpm.
Middle Hole of
Arm
.429 or ^6 inch
1% inch
.031 inch
One Full Turn
Open
500 rpm.
Middle Hole of
Arm
.429 or J/fc inch
5/ inch
^ inch
One Notch Rich
.012 inch
% inch z^ inch
34 inch
One Notch Rich
.012 inch
Fast Idle Speed Setting
New Yorker and Imperial
Saratoga
1350 to 1400 rpm.
1375 to 1425 rpm.
SPECIAL TOOLS
CARBURETOR
C-3225 Stand, Carburetor Repair
C-3400 Repair Stand
T-109-22 Bending Tool
T-109-28 Gauge, Unloader-% inch
T-109-29 Closing Shoes Clearance Gauge (wire) (.017 to .022 inch)
T-109-31 Choke Unloader Gauge-(J£ inch)
T-109-41 Bending Tool
T-109-44 Wire Gauge, Fast Idle (.015 to .018 inch)
T-109-58 Screw Driver Bit (% inch)
T-109-59 Screw Driver Bit (% inch)
T-109-107 Float Gauge (% inch)
T-109-193 Choke Piston Lever Adj. Gauge (wire)
T-109-197 Gauge, Bowl Vent Cap
T-109-200 Fast Idle Gauge (wire) (.012 inch)
T-109-200 Secondary Throttle Adj. Gauge (wire) (.010 inch)
T-109-213 Bending Tool
T-109-214 Bending Tool
T-109-236 Gauge Float Lever (% inch)
T-109-237 Thickness (.005 inch)
T-109-282 Gauge, Float Setting
T-109-284 Gauge, Float Level (% inch)
T-109-287S Elevating Legs (set of 5)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—3
Section VIII
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
FUEL PUMP
The fuel pump (Fig. 1) is driven by an eccentric on the camshaft, which actuates the rocker arm. This action lifts the pull rod and diaphragm assembly upwards against the main spring, thus creating a vacuum in the valve housing, which opens the inlet valves and fuel is drawn into valve housing chamber from fuel tank.
On the return stroke of rocker arm, the main spring pressure forces the diaphragm to down position, which expels fuel in valve chamber through outlet valve, to carburetor.
When the carburetor float chamber is filled with fuel, the float in carburetor shuts off the needle valve, creating pressure in fuel pump chamber. This pressure holds fuel pump diaphragm upward against spring pressure until carburetor requires more fuel.
As the engine consumes fuel the float level in the carburetor bowl drops and needle valve opens to admit fuel into float chamber, which releases the pump pressure and starts the pumping cycle again. Actually, change in float level is negligible.
1. TESTING FUEL PUMP (On Car)
If fuel pump fails to pump fuel to carburetor, following checks should be made to determine cause of failure before removing fuel pump from car: a. Fuel Lines
Make certain that fuel lines are not blocked and that fittings are tight. Check flexible hoses for cracks or deterioration which would cause leakage or retard flow of fuel to fuel pump.
b. Fuel Pump Breather Hole
Check for gasoline or oil leakage at fuel pump breather hole. A gasoline leak at this point indicates a defective diaphragm. An oil leak at this point indicates presence of a deterio-
ROCKER ARM
DAMPER ARM
FOLLOWER SPRING
PLUG
OCKERARM HOUSING
SCREWS AND LOCKWASHERS
VALVE BODY
SCREW AND LOCKWAS^R
DIAPHRAGM
FILTER HOUSING
GASKET
FILTER UNIT
SPRING
FILTER BOWL
STRAP
Fig. 1-Fuel Pump (Exploded View)
58x62
MyMopar.com
4—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM rated or damaged oil seal on the diaphragm pull rod. In either case, the diaphragm assembly should be replaced.
2. PRESSURE TEST
Insert a "T" fitting in the fuel line at the carburetor, as shown in Figure 2.
The hose between the "T" fitting and gauge
Tool C-483 should not exceed 6 inches. (A longer hose may collect fuel and the additional weight of the fuel would be added to the pressure of the pump and would result in an inaccurate reading).
Vent the fuel pump for a few seconds (to relieve air trapped in the fuel chamber) by allowing it to pump at full flow into a container. (If air is trapped in the fuel chamber, the pump will not operate at full capacity and a low pressure reading will result).
Connect a tachometer, then start the engine and run at 500 r.p.m. The reading should be from 5 to 7 p.s.i.
If the Pressure Is Too Low—A weak diaphragm main spring, or improper assembly of diaphragm, may be the cause.
3. ADDITIONAL CHECKS
Check for leakage at fuel pump diaphragm which might be caused by loose mounting bolts.
Check fuel pump mounting bolts to insure that no oil leakage exists around mounting flange.
If fuel pump fails to operate satisfactorily, disconnect fuel pump inlet and outlet lines and remove fuel pump assembly from engine. (On cars equipped with air conditioning remove fuel pump from bottom side of engine compartment).
4. VACUUM TEST
The vacuum test should be made with the fuel line disconnected from the carburetor. (This will allow the pump to operate at full capacity, which it must do to prime a dry carburetor).
The vacuum reading should be at least (10°) hg. Vacuum at 500 r.p.m. with the fuel line disconnected at the carburetor.
5. VOLUME TEST
The fuel pump should supply 1 quart of fuel in 1 minute or less at 500 r.p.m.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 2—Pressure Testing Fuel Pump
If the pump does not perform to the above test requirements, the fuel pump should be removed from the vehicle and overhauled.
6. SERVICING THE FUEL PUMP (FIG. 1)
Mark the various pump housings in such a manner that they may be reassembled with the inlet and outlet ports in correct location.
Remove the rocker arm follower spring by prying up and over the dimple in the housing.
Disengage the rocker arm damping lever from rocker arm and remove from pump. Remove the rocker arm pivot pin plug, using plug removing Tool T-109-43. Turn pump on its side
(pivot pin down) and rap gently to remove the pivot pin. Disengage rocker arm diaphragm pull rod and remove from housing.
Remove the screws that attach the rocker arm housing to the valve body. Separate housing and body, then lift out diaphragm. Remove the screws that attach the valve body to the filter housing. Remove the outlet dome diaphragm. Loosen the filter bowl retaining screw, then disengage retaining strap from housing, by pressing up from bottom. Remove filter bowl, spring, ceramic unit and gasket.
7. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean all fuel pump parts (except diaphragm) in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compressed air. Examine the diaphragm for cracks, torn screw holes or ruptures. Check the condition of the rubber oil seal on diaphragm pull rod. If deteriorated, install a new diaphragm
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL and pull rod assembly. Check the rocker arm for wear or scoring on the face that contacts the camshaft eccentric. If arm is scored or worn, install new rocker arm.
The component parts of the valve body are not available for service. If inspection reveals the need for new valves, install new valve body assembly.
8. REASSEMBLING THE FUEL PUMP
When reassembling the fuel pump, do not use shellac or other adhesive sealer on the diaphragm.
Place the outlet dome diaphragm in position on filter housing with the inlet passage hole over passage. Place valve body over diaphragm and align scribe marks. Install attaching screws and tighten securely. Slide the diaphragm and pull rod assembly into position in the rocker arm housing. Now press up on bottom of diaphragm until sufficient clearance has been obtained to allow engagement for rocker arm.
Slide rocker arm into housing and engage slot in end of arm with pull rod, below the plastic washers. Align arm, then install pivot pin and plug.
Place the rocker arm and diaphragm assembly in position on valve body, with scribe marks and screw holes aligned. Install attaching screws (threading carefully through diaphragm holes) and tighten alternately.
Engage the tongue end of damper arm in slot of the rocker arm with the recess in damper arm pressing against pivot pin. Hold in
RETURN LINE
GAUGE UNIT
CARBURETOR
58x59
Fig. 3—Vapor Separator Package (Schematic)
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—5
VAPOR BLEED .045 DIAMETER
ORIFICE
FILTER SCREEN
— OUTLET
INLET
58x60 PICKUP TUBE
Fig. 4—Vapor Separator Unit (Sectional View) this position, then install follower spring. (Be sure follower spring ends are over dimple in housing and tang on damper arm.) Invert pump and install filter gasket. Engage ends of bowl retaining strap in slots of filter housing.
Tilt retaining strap to the side far enough to install the ceramic filter, tension spring, and bowl. Center bowl, then tighten retaining screw securely.
Check the pump pressure as described in paragraph 2. Install pump on car, using a new mounting gasket. Tighten bolts securely.
9. THE VAPOR SEPARATOR (MODEL LCI—
WITH AIR CONDITIONING ONLY)
The vapor separator package, as shown in Figure 3, is used on the Windsor models equipped with air conditioning only and is used to prevent vapor lock. The vapor separator consists of a %
6
inch fuel supply line between the fuel tank and fuel pump, and between the fuel pump and the vapor separator unit which is attached directly to the carburetor fuel inlet connection.
A 14 inch return line from the top side of the unit parallels the supply line back to the fuel tank.
The vapor separator (serviced only as a unit consists of a stamped steel can, a filter screen, an inlet and outlet fitting and a metered return line orifice fitting, as shown in Figure 4.
a. Operation
Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the fuel pump through the supply line, into the pump and thence into the vapor separator unit, until the unit is filled with fuel. The unit outlet fitting is connected to a short section of tubing through which solid fuel from the bottom of the separator unit flows into the carburetor for
MyMopar.com
6—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
distribution to the engine. Any fuel vapor
(caused by excessive heat) that has gathered in the indrawn fuel, rises to the top of the separator unit and is forced out of the metered fitting into the return line, back to the fuel tank for condensation to solid fuel.
b. Servicing the Vapor Separator
As previously mentioned, the vapor separator unit is serviced only as an assembly. Checking to see if the unit is installed correctly (with the return line fitting uppermost) and that the metered orific in the return fitting is open, is the extent of service.
To check the vapor separator unit for a restricted or plugged screen, disconnect the fuel
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL inlet and return lines at the unit. Remove unit from carburetor. Reconnect fuel inlet line and plug return.
With a suitable container under the outlet connection, turn engine over with starting motor. Check the quantity of fuel pumped through the unit. See volume in Paragraph 1. If the flow appears to be restricted, install a new vapor separator unit.
If vapor lock is evident, remove the coupling hose at the unit and check to see if orifice is open. If clogged, bend a paper clip and insert through opening to clear. If necessary, use air pressure to clear return line, after removing tank filler cap.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
10. FUEL PUMP LEAKS—FUEL a. Tighten loose housing screws.
b. Install new diaphragm.
c. Tighten loose inlet or outlet or outlet fuel fittings.
a. Tighten fuel line fittings.
b. Install new diaphragm.
c. Thaw out frozen fuel lines.
d. Install new valve body.
e. Install correct fuel pump.
11. FUEL PUMP LEAKS—OIL a. Install new diaphragm.
b. Tighten fuel pump mounting bolts.
c. Install new pump to block gasket.
d. Install new pull rod oil seal.
12. INSUFFICIENT FUEL DELIVERY
13. FUEL PUMP NOISE a. Tighten fuel pump mounting bolts.
b. Install new rocker arm.
c. Install new rocker arm follower spring.
d. Lubricate at rocker arm pivot and pull rod with Lubriplate.
CARBURETOR
MODEL BBD-2685S (MODEL LC-1)
The Ball and Ball (BBD) (Fig. 5) series carburetor is of the dual downdraft type. Each throat has its own throttle valve, idle and main metering systems and are supplemented by the float, accelerating and power systems.
14. CARBURETOR MODEL IDENTIFICATION is stamped on metal tag attached to air horn.
Do not remove or destroy this tag, as it is the only means provided for carburetor model identification. Before attempting to repair or overheal carburetor, refer to model number and secure a repair kit for number indicated on tag.
On each BBD series carburetor, model number
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
INTEGRAL AUTOMATIC CHOKE
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—7
CHOKE VALVE
ROCKER ARM
ACCELERATOR
PUMP PLUNGER
FUEL INLET NEEDLE
VALVE AND SEAT
MAIN BODY
IDLE MIXTURE
ADJUSTING NEEDLES (2)
THROTTLE BODY
REPAIR STAND
Fig. 5-Carburetor Assembly (BBD-2685S)
AIR HORN
CHOKE SHAFT LOOSE LEVER
CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
FAST IDLE ROD
PUMP CONNECTOR ROD
FAST IDLE CAM
IDLE SPEED SCREW
FAST IDLE SCREW
THROTTLE SHAFT
LOOSE LEVER
THROTTLE LEVER
56x258A
SERVICE PROCEDURES
15. REMOVAL OF CARBURETOR
FROM ENGINE
Remove air cleaner, gasket, fuel line, choke heat tube and vacuum spark advance tube. Disconnect throttle linkage, remove the carburetor from intake manifold. Discard mounting flange gasket.
The carburetor must be disassembled, all parts carefully cleaned in suitable solvent, such as "Metalclene" or equivalent. Inspect all parts for damage or wear and replace as necessary.
16. CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY (FIG. 6)
Place carburetor assembly on repair stand
Tool C-3225, (if available). This Tool is used to protect throttle valves from damage and provide a suitable base for working. Remove hair pin clips that retain fast idle and pump connector rods, disengage from choke and throttle levers, as shown in Figure 7. Remove air horn and integral automatic choke, as shown in Figure 8, discard gasket. Remove fuel inlet needle valve, seat, gasket and float fulcrum pin retainer. Lift out floats, as shown in Figure 9. Remove step-up piston screw, lift step-up piston and rods up out of carburetor bowl, as shown in Figure 10. Remove step-up piston spring and gasket from piston cylinder.
Remove main metering jets and gaskets, as shown in Figure 11. Remove vented screws that attach venturi cluster to main body. Lift cluster up and away from carburetor, as shown in
Figure 12, discard cluster gaskets. Invert carburetor and drop out the discharge check ball.
The metering of fuel from accelerator pump is controlled by two drilled holes in the venturi cluster. Be sure these holes are clean.
Do not remove the idle orifice or main vent tubes from the venturi cluster. They can easily
MyMopar.com
8—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
RETAINER
SCREW \ GASKET
SCREW
/
AIR HORN
LOOSE LEVER
CHOKE LEVER
WASHER
SCREW
HAIRPIN CLIP
SPRING
SCREW
FAST IDLE ROD
STEP UP RODS
STEP UP PISTON
SPRING
GASKET
SCREWS
GASKET
M A I N JETS
VENTURI CLUSTER
RETAINER
FLOATS
GASKET
DISCHARGE CHECK BALL
NEEDLE VALVE A N D SEAT
THROTTLE BODY
M A I N BODY
FAST IDLE C A M
SCREW
HAIRPIN CLIP
THROTTLE VALVES
IDLE SPEED SCREW
FAST IDLE SCREW
MIXTURE SCREWS
A N D SPRINGS
SCREW
WASHER
LOOSE LEVER THROTTLE SHAFT
HAIRPIN CLIP
Fig. 6-Carburetor Assembly (BBD-2685S)
(Disassembled View)
PUMP ROD
56x192C
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
INSTALL IN
INSIDE HOLE
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—9
FULCRUM PIN
THROTTLE SHAFT LOOSE LEVER
PUMP
CONNECTOR ROD
INSTALL IN CENTER HOLE
FAST IDLE ROD-#•*«?
HAIRPIN CLIPS
56x259
Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Fast Idle and Pump Connector be cleaned in solvent and dried with compressed air. The discharge cluster is serviced only as an assembly.
Remove idle mixture adjusting needles and springs from throttle body. Invert carburetor and remove screws that attach throttle to main body. Separate bodies and discard gasket.
Disengage accelerator pump plunger from rocker arm, by pushing up on bottom of plunger and sliding slotted end off rocker arm hook, as shown in Figure 13. If pump plunger leather is worn, hard or cracked, a new pump plunger should be installed at reassembly. Place plung-
AIR HORN
GASKET
ACCELERATOR
PUMP PLUNGER
FLOAT FULCRUM
PIN RETAINER
FUEL INLET
NEEDLE VALVE
AND SEAT
GASKET
04 NEEDLE VALVE
PIN RETAINER 56x261 A
Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Float
STFP-UP PISTON
STEP-UP PISTON
RODS
RETAINING SCREW
56x262
Fig. 10—Removing or Installing Step Up
Piston and Rods
VENTURI CLUSTER^
MAIN
METERING JET
MODEL IDENTIFICATION TAG 56x260A
Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Air Horn
MAIN
METERING JFT
STEP-UP PISTON
GASKET
STEP-UP PISTON SPRING
56x263
Fig. 11—Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets
MyMopar.com
10—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
VENTURI CLUSTER GASKET METERING HOLES (2)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
IDLE ORIFICE
I
A N D
^
I N
© I VENT TU3ES
56x193 \
Fig. 12—Removing or installing Venturi Cluster er in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent leather from drying out.
Remove screws that attach the thermostatic coil housing and cap to air horn. Remove coil housing, thermostatic coil, cap, gaskets and baffle plate, as shown in Figure 14. Using a file or other suitable tool, remove staking portion of screws that attach choke valve to choke shaft. Remove screws and slide choke valve out of air horn. The choke valve screws are staked to prevent loosening and care must be used at removal so as not to break off in shaft.
Remove screw that attaches choke shaft lever to choke shaft. Hold choke shaft lever firmly with fingers, as shown in Figure 15, so as not to jam choke piston in its well. Slide choke lever, loose lever and washer off end of choke shaft as shown in Figure 16. Turn choke shaft
ACCELERATOR PUMP
ROCKER ARM
GASKET
BAFFLE PLATE
THERMOSTATIC COIL-
PLATE
STRAP
RING
-CHOKE H O U S I N G
GASKET
HEAT TUBE CAP
RETAINER
SCREW 57x322
Fig. 14—Removing or Installing Choke Baffle
Plate and Gasket clockwise until choke piston clears the top of its cylinder, then withdraw the choke piston, link and shaft from air horn, as shown in Figure 17.
The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units, namely, the air horn, main body and throttle body, and component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection. It is usually not advisable to remove throttle shaft or valves, un-
".CHOKE SHAFT LOOSE LEVER
CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
56x266
Fig. 15—Removing or Installing the Choke
Shaft Lever
CHOKE SHAFT
PUMP PLUNGER
56x264
Fig. 13—Removing or Installing Accelerator
Pump Plunger
CHOKE SHAFT LOOSE LEVER
W A S H E R S CHOKE SHAFT LEVER 5 6 x 1 9 4
Fig. 16—Removing or Installing Choke Shaft
Loose Lever
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CHOKE SHAFT
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—11
PISTON WELL
PISTON
56x267
Fig. 17—Removing or Installing Choke Shaft Piston less wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts. To install new valves or throttle shaft, refer to Inspection and Reassembly Paragraph 18.
17. CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS
The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol. There are other commercial solvents or cleaners, however, such as Metalclene (or equivalent) which may be used with satisfactory results.
IMPORTANT
If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be
HOT. After rinsing, all trace of moisture must be blown from passages with air pressure. Never clean jets with wire, drill or other mechanical means as the orifices may become enlarged, making fuel mixture too rich for proper performance.
18. INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY
Check throttle shaft for excessive wear in
IDLF TPANSFFR PORTS
S P A R K A D V A N C E
IDLE TRANSFER PORTS CONTROL PORT
Fig. 18-Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW
Fig. 19—Removing or Installing Throttle Valves throttle body. If wear is extreme, it is recommended that throttle body be replaced rather than installing a new throttle shaft in old body.
During manufacture, location of idle transfer port and spark advance control ports to valves is carefully established for one particular assembly (See Fig. 18). If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body it would be very unlikely that original relationship of ports to valves would be obtained.
Changing port relationship would adversely affect normal car operation between speeds of
15 and 30 miles per hour. If it has been determined however, that new valves and shaft are to be installed, adhere closely to following instructions: Mark valves to be sure each is replaced in same bore from whence removed.
Using file or other suitable tool, remove staking portion of screws that attach throttle valves to throttle shaft. Remove screws and slide throttle vulves out of bores. The throttle valve screws are staked on opposite side to prevent loosening and care must be used at removal so as not to break off in shaft.
Slide throttle shaft out of throttle body.
Position new shaft in body, then back off idle speed screw (adjusting). This will allow valves to be fully seated for instalation operation.
The letter "C" in a circle stamped on valves must be toward idle ports and visible from bottom of throttle body when valves are installed. Slide valves into their respective bores, insert NEW attaching screws, but do not tighten. Hold valves in place with fingers, as shown in Figure 19 (fingers pressing on high side of valves).
MyMopar.com
12—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
Tap valves lightly with screwdriver to seat fully in bores. Holding valves in this position, tighten screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers. Install two idle mixture adjusting needles and springs in throttle body.
(The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting needle should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control).
Idle Mixture Needle Adjustment
The adjusting should be made with fingers.
DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. Turn needles lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn for approximate setting.
Assembling the Automatic Choke
To function properly, it is important that all choke parts be clean and move freely when installed. It is possible, under extremely dust conditions, that fine particles of dirt may be found deposited on various choke parts. A heavy, black, hard carbon deposit on choke parts will indicate the possibility of a leak in the heat tube, in exhaust manifold. Check tube and install a new one if necessary. Examine for wear or damage. Worn or damaged parts must be replaced in order to insure proper choke operation.
The thermostatic coil, heat retainer plate and coil housing are serviced as an assembly only. If housing is cracked or broken, install a complete new assembly. The index mark cut in rim of housing is only correct for one coil originally installed. Do not attempt to separate thermostatic coil from heat retainer plate.
To remove coil and heat retainer plate from housing, hit housing sharply against palm of
LOCATING NOTCH AND MATING LUG
HOUSING
57x324
THERMOSTATIC COIL AND
HEAT RETAINING PLATE
Fig. 20-lnstalling Heat Retainer Plate
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CENTER INDEX MARK
57x323A
Fig. 21—Alignment of Index Marks of Choke hand (coil side down). Clean dirt, dust or other foreign material that may be present from retainer plate and out of choke housing. When reassembling, match lug in the housing, with notch on plate, as shown in Figure 20. Install plate and press down until it is seated in housing. Be sure retaining spring in plate is clear of notch.
Slide choke shaft and piston into air horn.
Be sure that groove in piston is clean. Turn choke shaft clockwise until piston clears choke cylinder. (Refer to Fig. 17). Turn choke shaft counter-clockwise, allowing choke piston to enter its cylinder. Slide choke valve down into position, then start new screws. Holding valve in closed position, tap gently with screw driver to center and locate valve, then tighten screws securely. Stake by squeezing with pliers. Hold air horn up-right and close choke valve. The valve should open freely of its own weight. Do not lubricate any of choke operating parts.
Install choke baffle plate and gasket. Place coil housing retaining ring over housing and heat tube cap, and, with index mark in down position, install coil housing. Turn the housing clockwise until index mark lines up with one notch rich mark on carburetor, as shown in
Figure 21. Install screws and tighten securely.
Slide choke shaft loose lever and sleeve over choke shaft, followed by choke shaft lever, washer and screw (Refer to Figure 16. Tighten screw securely. Place new gasket on throttle body. Invert assembly and install attaching screws. Just snug screws down, do not tighten at this time.
Place discharge check ball on its seat, test accelerator pump action as follows: Remove accelerator pump plunger from jar of gasoline.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DISCHARGE
CHECK BALL
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—13
C R O W N OF FLOATS
JUST T O U C H I N G
GAUGE
56x271
Fig. 22—Accelerator Pump Test
Flare back leather several times, slide into pump cylinder. Pour clean gasoline into float chamber (approximately V£ inch deep).
Raise plunger and press lightly on end of plunger shaft, forcing plunger down into cylinder. Do this several times, until all air has been removed from discharge passage. Using a small clean brass rod, hold discharge check ball firmly on its seat, as shown in Figure 22.
Raise pump plunger and press downward, no fuel should be emitted from either accelerator pump intake or discharge passage. If fuel does emit from either passage, it is an indication of dirt or a damaged check ball. Remove ball, reclean passage, and, if necessary, install new check ball. Retest as described above.
If fuel still emits from passage, place a small drill rod on check ball. Lightly tap with hammer to form a new ball seat. Install new check ball and test as previously described. If con-
STEP-UP RODS 56x272
Fig. 23—Positioning Step-up Rods
FLOAT LIP
HELD AGAINST
NEEDLE VALVE
56x273
Fig. 24-Checking Float Height dition still exists, install a new main body. Remove plunger and pour out gasoline after test.
Reinstall the venturi cluster, gaskets and idle bleed screws. Tighten screws securely.
(Refer to Fig. 12). Install main metering jets and gaskets, step-up piston gasket, spring, piston and rods. (Refer to Fig. 11). Before installing the step-up piston, be sure the step-up rods are able to move freely each side of vertical position, as shown in Figure 23. Be sure step-up piston slides freely in its cylinder. A step-up piston stuck in the UP position will cause a rich mixture at part throttle, whereas a piston stuck in down position will cause a lean mixture at wide open throttle and poor acceleration. Install retaining screw and tighten securely.
Install float, fulcrum pin and retainer. (Refer to Fig. 9). Install fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket. If needle valve is ridged, grooved, or shows signs of wear, a new needle valve and seat should be installed.
Checking Float Height
When checking float height, be sure and remove air horn gasket. Place float gauge Tool
T-109-282 in position over floats, as shown in
Figure 24. Both floats should just touch gauge when float lip is held firmly against inlet needle.
To adjust, bend float lip to raise or lower floats until correct setting has been obtained. If one float is lower than the other, equalize by bending float arm.
If Tool T-109-282 is not available, use a steel scale and measure distance from crown of float
MyMopar.com
14—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
(in the center) to top of fuel bowl. This measurement should be %
2
± %4 inch. Remove accelerator pump plunger from jar of gasoline, slide spring and cup washer over shaft. Slide assembly up through air horn and engage with rocker arm. Using a new gasket, place air horn on main body and install screws. Be sure plunger leather enters pump cylinder evenly.
Install accelerator pump and fast idle rods and secure with hairpin clips. Tighten all air horn and throttle body attaching screws securely.
19. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
The following adjustments should be made with the carburetor on a bench (for ease of working), and, should be made in the following order: Fast idle adjustment, choke shaft lever adjustment, unloader adjustment (wide open kick) and accelerator pump adjustment.
a. Fast Idle Adjustment
To make the fast idle adjustment, hold the choke valve tightly closed. Tighten the fast idle adjusting screw (on the high step of the fast idle cam), until wire gauge Tool T-109-44 (.015
inch) can be inserted between the throttle valve and the bore (side opposite port), as shown in
Figure 25. The index mark on the fast idle cam should be in direct line with the fast idle screw shank.
b. Choke Shaft Lever Adjustment
Invert the carburetor and open the throttle
THROTTLE VALVES HELD CLOSED!
WIRE GAUGE
(.015 INCH)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CHOKE VALVE
HELD CLOSED
SPECIAL TOOL
CHOKE LEVER
HIGH STEP OF
FAST IDLE CAM
IDLE SPEED
SCREW
BACKED OFF
FAST IDLE
ADJUSTING
SCREW
(TURN SCREW
„ IN OR OUT
"TO OBTAIN
ADJUSTMENT) 56x276 A
Fig. 26—Checking Fast Idle Setting valves to wide open position. Close the choke valve tightly and then close the throttle valves.
This will position the fast idle cam to fast idle.
The index mark on the cam should split the center of the fast idle adjusting screw, as shown in Figure 26. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the choke lever, using Tool T-109-22, as shown in Figure 27, until the index mark on the cam indexes the fast idle adjusting screw.
c. Choke Unloader Adjustment
(Wide Open Kick)
To make unloader adjustment, lightly hold choke valve closed, then open throttle valves
CHOKE VALVE HELD CLOSED"^ ^ 56x277A
Fig. 25—Correct Throttle Opening for Fast Idle
56x275A
Fig. 27—Bending Choke Lever for Correct Fast
Idle Cam Setting
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNLOADER GAUGE
•(1/4 INCH)
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—15
TOP OF
PLUNGER SHAFT
THROTTLE
VALVES
WIDE OPEN
POSITION
CHOKE VALVE
HELD LIGHTLY
CLOSED
56x278A
Fig. 28—Checking Choke Unloader Adjustment to wide open position. The choke valve should open sufficiently to allow unloader gauge Tool
T-109-31 (% inch) to be inserted between choke valve and wall of air horn, as shown in
Figure 28. Adjust if necessary, by bending the arm on throttle lever, using Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure 29, until correct clearance has been obtained.
d. Accelerator Pump Adjustment
To make accelerator pump adjustment, be sure pump connector rod is located in center hole of throttle lever and in inside hole of rocker arm. Back off idle speed adjusting screw until throttle valves are fully seated in their bores. (Make sure fast idle adjusting screw is off fast idle cam.) With throttle valves seated,
IDLE SPEED
SCREW
BACKED
OUT
TOP OF
AIR HORN
CENTER HOLE
THROTTLE VALVES
FULLY CLOSED
56x280B
Fig. 30—Checking Accelerator Pump Travel distance from top of plunger shaft to top of air horn bowl cover, should be 1 %
2
inch db or minus %
4
inch when measured with a steel scale, as shown in Figure 30. To adjust pump setting, bend pump connector rod, using Tool
T-109-213, as shown in Figure 31, until correct pump travel distance has been obtained.
20. INSTALLATION OF CARBURETOR
ON ENGINE
Install a new carburetor mounting gasket on intake manifold, then install carburetor. Before tightening attaching nuts, start fuel and vacuum lines, to prevent stripping threads on these connections. Complete tightening of attaching nuts, fuel and vacuum line connections, install heat control tube. Install throttle con-
THROTTLE LEVER ARM
BENDING TOOL
ACCELERATOR
PUMP ROD
0 $ 56x279;
Fig. 29-Bending Throttle Lever Arm for
Unloader Adjustment
BENDING TOOL
56x281 A
Fig. 3 1 — Bending Pump Rod for Correct
Pump Travel
MyMopar.com
16—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
AIR HORN
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
STEP-UP PISTON AND ROD COVER PLATES
CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD
CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
(PISTON HOUSING)
CHOKE PISTON HOUSING
CAP
MAIN AND
THROTTLE
BODY CASTING
HEAT
TUBE
STRAP
CARBURETOR
MODEL NUMBER
AND DATE STAMPED
ON BOSS
SECONDARY THROTTLE RETURN SPRING
PRIMARY THROTTLE
SHAFT ARM (INNER)
PRIMARY THROTTLE SHAFT DOG
PRIMARY THROTTLE SHAFT ARM (OUTER)
THROTTLE OPERATING ROD
SECONDARY THROTTLE OPERATING LEVER
CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD
FUEL INLET FITTING
AND SCREEN
INDEX MARK
RETAINER-
CHOKE VALVE
AIR HORNk
THERMOSTATIC
COIL HOUSING
STEP-UP PISTON AND
ROD COVER PLATE (2)
PUMP CONNECTOR LINK
FAST IDLE CONNECTOR ROD
PUMP ARM
FAST IDLE CAM
MAIN AND THROTTLE
BODY CASTING
IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS'"
REPAIR STAND
Fig. 32—Carburetor Assembly (Right and Left View)
' IDLE SPEED
ADJUSTING
SCREW
(CURB IDLE)
THROTTLE
CONNECTOR
ROD
57x793
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL trol linkage return spring and anchor, the air cleaner and gasket. Set engine idle speed as follows.
Idle Mixture Adjustment—No amount of carburetor adjustment will give a smooth engine idle, unless following items are known to be in good condition and/or adjusted correctly. Spark plugs, distributor points, good high tension terminal connections (no leaks in leads), engine ignition timing and manifold heat control valve operating properly.
If it was not made during assembly of carburetor, make preliminary setting of idle mixture adjusting needles, by turning them clockwise until seated. Back out one full turn. To prevent damage to the needles and seats, use finger pressure ONLY to make this adjustment.
Try and turn each adjusting needle the same amount. There is very little inter-connection between two branches of intake manifold. The cylinders on each branch will react to "changes in idle mixture as much as if there were two four cylinder engines. It is assumed that approximately the same idle mixture is required by each set of four cylinders. It is further assumed that idle mixture delivered by each barrel of carburetor will be approximately the same if each idle adjusting needle is opened the same amount. The final fine setting may vary slightly from this, but it is best to start with needles in same physical location.
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—17
With engine warmed-up, idle speed set at
500 r.p.m. and both idle adjusting needles set at one full turn open, observe the roughness of engine and absence or presence of fluffs at tail pipe and/or pipes. Turn both idle mixture adjusting needles clockwise (leaner) Vi turn. If r.p.m. increases slightly, the engine runs smoother, and there are fewer fluffs in exhaust, the leaner adjustment is in right direction. Try turning needles clockwise another Vi turn, or a total of 1/4 turn from initial setting. This may further improve idle or make it worse. If, with this setting, the idle was improved, reset idle speed to 500 r.p.m. and then try individual adjustments of each needle % turn clockwise
(leaner) and counter-clockwise (richer) to find best adjustment for each needle.
If the i/g turn (leaner) clockwise adjustment of both needles produced a drop in engine r.p.m., rougher operation, and more fluffs at tail pipes, try adjusting both needles V6 turn counter-clockwise (richer) from initial setting.
Repeat procedure described above.
The best idle operation will normally be found with idle mixture needles set somewhere between % and 1% turns open. The final setting should result in both needles being open same number of turns, plus or minus Vs turn.
After final adjustment of idle mixture adjusting needles, recheck (and set if necessary) the idle speed.
CARBURETORS Models AFB-2650S-2651S
Models (LC-2, LC-3, LY-1)
The new AFB 2650S and 2651S (aluminum four barrel) carburetors (Fig. 32) contain many new features, some of which are, a new location for the step-up rods and pistons. The stepup rods, pistons and springs are accessible for service without removing the air horn, or the carburetor from the engine. The venturi assemblies (primary and secondary) are replaceable and contain many of the calibration points for both the high and low speed systems.
All the major castings of the carburetor are aluminum, with the throttle body cast integral with the main body. This allows an over-all height reduction in the carburetor. The section containing the accelerator pump and the integral choke is termed the primary side of the carburetor. The other side is the secondary.
The five conventional systems used in previous four barrel carburetors are also used in this unit. The five conventional systems are, two
MyMopar.com
18—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
float systems, two low speed systems, (primary side only) two high speed systems, one accelerator pump system and one automatic choke control system.
21. SERVICING THE CARBURETOR
Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.
When overhauling the AFB Carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job.
The carburetor should be carefully disassembled.
All parts cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for wear or damage.
Air pressure only should be used to clean the various orifices and channels.
Questionable parts should be replaced with new ones. When inspecting parts removed from the carburetor it is at times rather difficult to determine if they are satisfactory for further service. It is recommended therefore that in such cases that new parts be installed.
22. DISASSEMBLING THE AFB CARBURETOR
To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figure 32, and proceed as follows:
Place the carburetor assembly on repair stand Tool C-3400 or T-109-287S elevating legs.
These tools are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.
Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the fast idle connector rod to the choke lever. Disengage rod from lever, then swing rod at an arc until it can be disengaged from the fast idle cam.
Remove the retainer and spring that holds the throttle connector rod in the center hole of the accelerator pump arm. Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the lower end of rod in the primary throttle shaft lever. Disengage rod from arm and lever, then remove from carburetor.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Remove the hairpin clips that attach the choke connector rod to the choke shaft lever and the lever at the choke piston housing. Disengage rod and remove from carburetor.
Remove the screws attaching the step-up piston and rod cover plates. Hold cover down with a finger to prevent the piston and rods from flying out. Lift off the plates and slide the stepup pistons and rods out of the air horn. Remove the step-up piston springs.
Remove the ten screws that attach the air horn to the main body. (1 screw in hole in air horn). Lift the air horn straight up and away from the main body. When removing air horn, use care so as not to bend or damage the floats.
Remove the accelerator pump plunger lower spring from the pump cylinder.
a. Disassembling the Air Horn
Place the air horn in an inverted position on the bench (to protect the floats) then proceed to disassemble as follows:
Using a suitable Tool, remove the float fulcrum pins, (left and right) then lift the floats up and out of bosses on air horn. It is suggested that the float on the pump side be marked so that the floats can be re-installed in their respective positions.
Remove the two needle valves from their respective seats, after marking the one on the pump side for identification. Using a wide blade screw driver, remove the needle valve seats. Be sure each needle valve is returned to its original seat at reassembly.
Remove the hairpin clip that holds the accelerator pump connector link in the pump arm and plunger shaft. Disengage link from pump arm and shaft. Slide the accelerator pump plunger and spring out of the air horn. Remove the air horn to main body gasket and discard.
Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene, to prevent the leather from drying out.
Remove the fuel inlet fitting and filter screen from the air horn.
b. Main Body Disassembly
Using a Phillips screw driver, remove the screws that attach the accelerator pump jet housing to the main body. Lift out the jet hous-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PRIMARY VENTUR! (PUMP SIDE)
PRIMARY VENTURI
(CHOKE SIDE)
PRIMARY JET
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—19
PRIMARY VENTUR!
(PUMP SIDE)
PRIMARY VENTURI
(CHOKE SIDE)
SECONDARY
FUEL BOWL
^ ^ - ^ ^ — ^ _ x ^ BAFFLE
SECONDARY JET
SECONDARY VENTURI (CHOKE SIDE) 57x794
Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Main Metering
Jets (Primary) ing and gasket. Discard the gasket. Now, invert the main body and drop out the discharge check needle, from the discharge passage.
Using Tool T109-58, remove the main metering jets (primary side), as shown in Figure
33. The primary and secondary main metering jets are not interchangeable. It is very important that these jets be installed in their respective locations in the main body at reassembly. Again using Tool T109-58, remove the main metering jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 34.
Remove the screws that attach the primary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body. Lift the venturi straight up and away from the main body, as shown in Figure 35.
Discard the gaskets.
The venturi assemblies are not interchange-
PUMP DISCHARGE PASSAGE
57x796
Fig. 35—Removing or Installing Primary Venturi
(Choke Side and Pump Side) able, side for side and must be re-installed in their original location at reassembly.
Remove the screws that attach the secondary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body. Lift the secondary venturi assemblies straight up and away from the body as shown in Figure 36.
Invert the main and throttle body casting, then remove the accelerator pump intake check ball plug. Using Tool T109-59, screw driver bit, remove the check ball seat, as shown in Figure
37. Again invert the body casting and drop out the intake check ball.
Remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body portion of the main casting.
Remove the screws that attach the thermostatic coil spring housing retainer to the choke piston housing. Remove the retainer, cap, gasket, housing, gasket and baffle plate from the choke housing.
GASKET
SECONDARY VENTURI
(PUMP SIDE)
PRIMARY J£T>^ °
A R Y J
Fig. 34—Removing or Installing Metering Jets
(Secondary)
DARY
VENTURI
(CHOKE SIDE)
57x797
Fig. 36—Removing or Installing Secondary Venturi
(Choke Side and Pump Side)
MyMopar.com
20—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
3/i6 INCH BIT
THROTTLE BODY FLANGE
57x798 &-*—SCREW PLUG
Fig. 37—Removing Intake Check Ball Seat
Remove the screws that attach the choke piston housing to the main body casting. Remove choke piston housing and discard the vacuum passage gasket.
Remove the choke piston arm attaching screw and washer, then slide the choke piston out of its cylinder.
The carburetor now has been disassembled into two units, namely the air horn and the main and throttle body casting. The component parts of each, have been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.
It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves, unless wear or damage necessitates the installation of new parts.
During the manufacture of the carburetor, the
IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS
PRIMARY THROTTLE
VALVES ___
ACCELERATOR PUMP
INTAKE PASSAGE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL location of the idle transfer ports and the idle discharge ports to the valve is carefully established for one particular assembly, as shown in Figure 38. The valves are milled to give the proper port relation.
If new throttle shafts should be installed in an old, worn body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. A very slight change in the port relationship to the valves would adversely affect normal carburetor operation, between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour.
It is recommended that if the throttle shafts are excessively worn, that a new carburetor be installed. However, if the throttle valves have become nicked, burred or damaged, new valves may be installed, providing the following instructions are carefully followed.
The screws that attach the throttle valves are staked on the opposite side and care should be used in removal so as not to break the screws in the throttle shaft. Remove the staked portion of the screws with a file.
Remove the screws that attach the primary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve (or valves) out of the bores.
Remove the screws that attach the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve (or valves) out of bores.
The primary valves and secondary valves are not interchangeable and should be kept separate in order that each may be returned to its respective bore. (See Fig. 39).
SECONDARY VALVE
(THICK)
pass
IDLE TRANSFER PORTS 57x799
Fig. 38—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves
PRIMARY VALVE
( T H I N )
53x946
Fig. 39—Throttle Valve Identification
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
23. CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS
The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol, which is easily obtainable.
However, there are other commercial solvents which may be used with satisfactory results.
IMPORTANT
If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of a water rinse, it should be
"HOT". After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure.
It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill, or other mechanical means, because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.
It is important that all parts of the automatic choke be clean and move freely, in order to function properly. It is possible, under an extremely dusty condition, fine particles of dirt may be deposited on the various choke parts.
Examine all choke parts for wear or damage.
Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new, to insure proper operation of the choke.
Other than an occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no servicing. However, it is very important that the choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft.
To remove the thermostatic coil spring and heat retainer plate from the housing for cleaning, hit the housing sharply against the palm of the hand (coil side down). Clean dust, dirt or other foreign material that may be present, from the retainer plate and out of the choke housing. When reassembling, match the lug in the housing with the notch on the heat retainer plate. Install the plate and press down until seated. Be sure the retaining spring in the plate is clear of notch.
The thermostatic coil spring, heat retainer plate and coil housing are serviced as an assembly only. If the housing is cracked or broken, install a complete new assembly. The index mark out in the rim of the housing is correct for the one coil originally installed. Do not attempt to separate the thermostatic coil from the heat retainer plate.
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—21
24. CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY a. Main and Throttle Body Casting
Slide the primary throttle valve (or valves) into their respective bores, install new screws, but do not tighten. Be sure the idle speed adjusting screw is backed out. Hold the valves in place with the fingers. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves).
Tap the valves lightly with a screw driver to seat in the bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely. Stake screws by squeezing with pliers.
Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body portion of the casting. The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control. DO NOT USE A SCREW
DRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn for an approximate adjustment.
Position the choke shaft lever (piston housing) so that it is pointing toward the piston cylinder, as shown in Figure 40. (One o'clock when viewed from the rear).
Slide the choke piston into the cylinder, and at the same time position the piston arm over the flats on the shaft. Install retaining washer and screw. Snug down and carefully tighten.
Slide a new vacuum passage gasket into position, then install the piston housing on the body casting. Install screws and tighten securely.
CHOKE SHAFT LEVER
APPROXIMATELY
1 O'CLOCK
POSITION
CHOKE PISTO
HOUSING
•psi .
CHOKE PISTON
57x800 1 * VACUUM PASSAGE
Fig. 40—Positioning Choke Shaft Lever
MyMopar.com
22—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
Place new secondary venturi gaskets in position, then install the secondary venturi (pump and choke side) by lowering straight down on gaskets. Install attaching screws and tighten securely. Be sure all the metering holes and vent tubes are clean, in both the primary and secondary venturi.
Place new primary venturi gaskets in position, then install the primary venturi (pump and choke side) by lowering straight down on the gaskets. (Refer to Figure 35). Install attaching screws and tighten securely.
Install the primary and secondary main metering jets, using Tool T109-58. (Refer to Figures 33 and 34). Tighten jets securely.
Invert the carburetor and install the accelerator pump intake check ball. Install seat and tighten securely, using Tool T109-59. (Refer to Figure 37). Install screw plug and tighten securely.
b. Accelerator Pump Test
Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl
(approximately 1/2 i n c n
deep). Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the j a r of gasoline. Flex the leather several times, then slide into the pump cylinder.
Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle in the discharge passage. Raise the pump plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passages. Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check needle firmly on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage.
If fuel does emit from the intake passage, disassemble the intake check ball and reclean the passage. Fuel leakage at the discharge check needle indicates the presence of dirt" or a damaged check needle. Clean again and then install a new check needle. Retest for leakage.
If either the intake check ball or discharge check needle leaks after above test and service fix, attempt to reseat as follows: c. Intake Check Ball
Remove the screw plug, gasket, ball seat and ball from the bottom of the throttle body flange.
Install a new ball and ball seat. Install screw
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL plug and new gasket, then retest as described previously.
d. Discharge Check Needle
With the discharge check needle installed, insert a piece of drill rod down on the needle.
Lightly tap the drill rod with a hammer to form a new seat. Remove and discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described previously. If the service fix does not correct the condition, a new carburetor will have to be installed.
Install the accelerator pump jet housing gasket. Install housing and attaching screws.
Tighten screws securely.
Press down on the accelerator pump plunger shaft, and as the plunger is being depressed, a clear straight stream should emit from each jet. If the streams are identical, (if either one is diverted or restricted) a new accelerator pump jet housing should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove pump plunger.
e. Assembling the Air Horn
Slide the fuel inlet screen into the fuel line fitting, then install fitting in air horn. Tighten securely.
Check to see if the leather on, the accelerator pump plunger is hard, cracked or worn. If any sign of wear or deterioration is evident, install a new plunger assembly.
Slide the accelerator plunger into air horn, then install the accelerator pump link. Install the retaining hairpin clip to secure.
Place a new air horn to main body gasket in position on the air horn, then install the float needle valve seats. (Be sure each needle seat and needle is reinstalled in its original position).
Slide the right and left floats into position in the air horn, then install the float fulcrum pins. (Be sure the marked float is installed on the pump side of the air horn).
After the floats have been installed, check the float alignment, level and drop settings as follows: f. Float Alignment Setting
Sight down the side of each float shell to de-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
.THESE SURFACES MUST BE PARALLEL
AIR HORN FUEL BAFFLE
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—23
MINIMUM CLEARANCE WITHOUT B I N D I N G
3 v
57 x 801
Fig. 41—Checking Float Alignment termine if the side of the float is parallel to the outer edge of the air horn casting, as shown in Figure 41.
If the sides of the float are not in alignment with the edge of casting, bend the float lever by applying pressure to the end of the float shell with the fingers while supporting the float lever with the thumb. To avoid damage to the float, apply only enough pressure to bend the float lever.
After aligning the floats, remove as much clearance as possible between the arms of the float lever and the lugs on the air horn. To do this, bend the float lever. The arms of the float lever should be as parallel as possible to the inner surfaces of the lugs on the casting.
g. Float Level Setting
With the air horn inverted, the air horn gasket in place and the float needle seated, slide float gauge T109-107 (He") between the top of the float (at outer end) and the air horn gasket, as shown in Figure 42. Float should just touch gauge.
FLOAT GAUGE GASKET IN PLACE,
57 x 802
Fig. 42—Checking Float Height with Gauge
GASKET IN PLACF
57 x 803 STOP TABS
Fig. 43—Checking Float Drop
Check the outer float in the same manner.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the float arm using Tool T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained. After bending arm, recheck the float alignment.
h. Float Drop Setting
Holding the air horn in an upright position, measure the distance from the top of the floats
(outer end) to the air horn gasket as shown in Figure 43. This measurement should be % inch. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the stop tabs on the float levers until the correct drop setting has been obtained. Bend the tab towards the needle seat to lessen the drop, or away from the seat to increase the drop.
After the floats have been checked and adjusted, continue to assemble the carburetor as follows:
Place the accelerator pump plunger lower spring in the pump cylinder, then lower the air horn carefully down on the main body.
CAUTION
Be sure the fuel baffles on the air horn, slide down in front, (bowl side) of the float chamber baffles, or the air horn will not index correctly with the main body and can cause the floats to hang up.
Be sure the leather on the plunger does not curl or wrinkle. Accelerator pump operation will be affected if this precaution is not observed.
Install the 10 air horn attaching screws and tighten securely, (the two long screws should be installed in the holes that are located at the air cleaner mounting surface. The 1 inch screw at the front and the 1% inch at the rear).
MyMopar.com
24—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
Slide the step-up piston springs into the piston cylinders, followed by the step-up pistons and step-up rods. Install the cover plates and attaching screws while holding the step-up pistons down in position. Tighten screws securely.
Engage the choke connector rod with the choke shaft lever and the lever at the choke piston housing. Install hairpin clips to secure.
Engage the throttle connector rod with the primary throttle shaft lever, then install hairpin clip. Slide the flatwasher over other end of rod and engage with the accelerator pump arm. Install retainer spring and retainer secure.
Engage the lower end of the fast idle connector rod with the fast idle cam, then swing in an arc to lock in cam. Slide other end of rod into the choke shaft lever and secure with hairpin clip.
The carburetor now has been completely assembled with the exception of the automatic choke housing and heat tube cap. This was done in order to make the choke piston lever adjustment.
25. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
The following adjustments should be made with the carburetor on the bench for ease of working, and, should be made in the following order: a. Fast Idle Adjustment
With the choke valve held tightly closed, tighten the fast idle adjusting screw (on the high
.012 INCH GAUGE
,-sf
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
, CHOKE VALVE
CLOSED
FAST IDLE
CAM
INDEX MARK
FAST IDLE
57 x 809 U J ] ADJUSTING SCREW
Fig. 45—Checking Fast Idle Indexing step of the fast idle cam), until wire gauge
Tool T109-200 (.012 inch) can be inserted between the primary throttle valve and the bore
(side opposite idle port), as shown in Figure
44. The index mark on the fast idle cam should be in direct line with the fast idle screw shank.
b. Choke Shaft Lever Adjustment
Invert the carburetor and open the throttle valves to wide open position. Close the choke valve tightly and then close the throttle valves.
Release the choke valve. This will position the fast idle cam to fast idle. The index mark on the cam should split the center of the fast idle adjusting screw, as shown in Figure 45. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle connector rod at the angle, using Tool T109-213, until the index mark on the cam indexes the fast idle adjusting screw.
CHOKE VALVE
TIGHTLY CLOSED
FAST IDLE
ADJUSTING SCREW
HIGH STEP OF
FAST IDLE CAM
57 x 804
CHOKE VALVE
TIGHTLY CLOSED
Fig. 44—Checking Fast Idle Adjustment
57
x
805- - CHOKE LEVER
Fig. 46—Checking Piston Lever Adjustment
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL c. Choke Piston Lever Adjustment
Move the choke valve to the fully closed position. It should then be possible to insert a .040
inch shank or wire gauge, Tool T109-193, between the choke lever and the stop lug in the piston housing, as shown in Figure 46.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the choke connector rod at the upper angle, using Tool
T109-213, until correct clearance has been obtaned. Reinstall baffle plate and gasket. Place the choke thermostatic coil housing against baffle plate and gasket with the index mark pointing straight down. Turn housing clockwise until the index mark on the housing is in line with the first notch rich beyond the center mark on the piston housing. Hold in this position and install heat tube cap and gasket. Be sure the heat tube opening in cap is pointing horizontally toward the rear. Install retaining ring, strap and attaching screws. Tighten securely.
d. Choke Unloader Adjustment
With the throttle valves in the wide open position, it should be possible to insert Tool T109-
31 (% inch) gauge between the upper edge of the choke valve and the inner wall of the air horn, as shown in Figure 47.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the unloader lip on the throttle shaft lever, using
Tool T109-41 until correct opening has been obtained.
>1NCH GAUGE
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—25
"T" SCALE
THROTTLE
VALVES
CLOSED
IDLE SPEED
SCREW x
(BACKED OUT)
THROTTLE CONNECTOR
R O D (BEND AT THIS
5 7 x 8 0 7 : r > ^ - * ' * * " ANGLE)
Fig. 48—Checking Accelerator Pump Travel e. Accelerator Pump Adjustment
Move the choke valve to wide open position, to release the fast idle cam. Back off the idle speed adjusting screw (curb idle) until the throttle valves are seated in the bores.
Measure the distance from the top of the air horn to the top of the plunger shaft, using a "T" scale, as shown in Figure 48. This distance should be %
6
inch.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the throttle connector rod at the lower angle, using
Tool T109-213, until correct travel has been obtained.
f. Secondary Throttle Lever Adjustment
To check the secondary throttle lever adjust-
PRIMARY THROTTLE
VALVES
BEND ROD AT
THIS POINT
%A INCH SECONDARY
VALVES SHOULD JUST
START TO OPEN
BEND UNLOADER LIP
THROTTLE VALVES
WIDE OPEN 57x 806
Fig. 47—Checking Choke Unloader Adjustment
57 x 810 CHOKE VALVE BLOCKED OPEN
Fig. 49—Checking Secondary Throttle Opening
MyMopar.com
26—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
ment, block the choke valve in the wide open position and invert the carburetor. Slowly open the primary throttle valves until it is possible to measure
x
%
4
inch between the lower edge of the primary valve and the bore (opposite idle port), as shown in Figure 49. At this measurement, the secondary valves should just start to open. The stop lugs on both the primary and secondary throttle levers should contact the bosses on the flange at the same time.
If an adjustment is necessry, bend the secondary throttle operating rod at the angle, using Tool T109-213, until correct adjustment has been obtained. At wide open throttle, the primary and secondary throttle valves should reach the full vertical position.
With the primary and secondary throttle valves in the tightly closed position, it should be possible to insert Tool T109-29 (.017 to .022
inch) wire gauge, between the positive closing shoes on the secondary throttle levers, as shown in Figure 50.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the shoe on the secondary throttle lever, using Tool
T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained.
g. Secondary Throttle Lock-Out Adjustment
Crack the throttle valves, then manually open
SECONDARY
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PRIMARY SHOE
(BEND TO ADJUST) x 808 . TT l i i l l
0 1 7 T O
-
0 2 2
INCH GAUGE
Fig. 50—Checking Clearance between Closing Shoes and close the choke valve. The tang on the secondary throttle lever should freely engage in the notch of the lock-out dog.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the secondary throttle lever, until engagement has been made. Use Tool T109-22 for this operation.
After adjustments have been made, reinstall carburetor on engine, using a new gasket.
It is suggested that the carburetor bowl be filled with clean gasoline. This will help prevent dirt that is trapped in the fuel system, from being dislodged by the free flow of fuel, as the carburetor is primed.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
26. POOR IDLING a. Tighten main to throttle body screws.
b. Check and adjust float level.
c. Install new idle mixture needles.
d. Install new throttle shaft or body.
e. Clean idle discharge holes.
f. Clean carburetor and idle bleed.
e. Install new accelerator pump inlet check valve.
f. Check and reset float level.
g. Install needle valve and seat.
h. Install new throttle linkage.
i. Check and readjust choke.
27. POOR ACCELERATION a. Clean accelerator pump by-pass jet.
b. Install new accelerator pump.
c. Clean accelerator pump discharge cluster.
d. Clean vacuum piston and cylinder.
28. CARBURETOR FLOODS OR LEAKS a. Install new main body if required.
b. Install new air horn to main body gasket.
c. Check and adjust float level.
d. Install new fuel inlet needle valve and seat.
e. Check fuel pump pressure and install new pump if necessary.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
29. POOR PERFORMANCE—(mixture too rich) a. Replace air cleaner element (paper).
b. Install new floats.
c. Check float level and adjust if necessary.
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—27
d. Check fuel pump pressure and install new pump if necessary.
e. Install new main metering jets.
f. Check manifold heat control valve.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
The LC-1 Model (Single rocker shaft engine) exhaust system consists of exhaust and intake manifolds, heat control valve, "Y" exhaust extension pipe muffler, and tail pipe, as shown in
Figure 51.
trol valve, two exhaust pipes, two exhaust mufflers and two tail pipes, as shown in Figure 52.
The exhaust system of the Imperial Models is a dual system with four mufflers, as shown in
Figure 53.
The LC-2 Model (single rocker shaft engine) and the LC-3 (double rocker shaft engine) exhaust system is dual exhaust system which consists of exhaust and intake manifolds, heat con-
The Manifold Heat-Control Valve Housing is now cast integral with the Right Exhaust Manifold on all models.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
30. INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
(All Models)
Figures 54 and 55 show intake manifold and cross-over passages.
a. Removal of the Intake Manifold
Remove air cleaner, drain radiator. Remove
BRACKET A N D SUPPORT-
MUFFLER
CLAMP, BOLT, NUT AND LOCKWASHER
STUD
NUT CLAMP
Fig. 51—Exhaust System (Single Rocker Shaft Engine Model LC-1)
57x390 A
MyMopar.com
28—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BRACKETS AND SUPPORTS
TAIL PIPE
BRACKET A N D SUPPORT
EXTENSION
EXHAUST PIPE
BRACKET A N D SUPPORT
MUFFLER
\ [_£r
CLAMP
—STUD \
X
N
U T EXHAUST PIPE
Fig. 5 2 - D u a l Exhaust System (Models LC2, LC3)
57x391
BRACKET A N D SUPPORT
BRACKETS A N D SUPPORTS,
TAIL PIPE
REAR MUFFLER
EXTENSION
FRONT MUFFLER
C L A M P
\ CLAMP
EXTENSION
CLAMP
EXHAUST PIPE
GASKETS
REAR MUFFLER
-CLAMP
EXTENSION
FRONT MUFFLER
CLAMP
CLAMP
EXTENSION
EXHAUST PIPE
Fig. 5 3 - D u a l Exhaust System (Model LY1)
PIPE
BRACKET A N D SUPPORT
57x392
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CARBURETOR MOUNTING FLANGE
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—29
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
LEFT SIDE
EXHAUST
MANIFOLD
RIGHT SIDE
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
HEAT TUBE
52x519C
EXHAUST GAS
CROSSOVER PASSAGE
VACUUM SAFETY SWITCH MOUNTING HOLE
Fig. 54-lntake Manifold (LCI Engine Only) generator and disconnect carburetor linkage.
Disconnect power brake vacuum line at manifold (if so equipped). Disconnect distributor vacuum advance line and fuel line at carburetor.
Disconnect automatic choke heat tube at carburetor. Disconnect wires at coil. Remove bolts holding intake manifold to cylinder head. Remove intake manifold.
NOTE: If car is equipped with air conditioning, remove bracket from intake manifold to compressor.
b. Removal of Left Side Exhaust Manifold
Remove nuts and bolts that hold exhaust pipe to manifold flange. Remove and discard gasket.
GENERATOR
MOUNTING
PAD
COIL MOUNTING BOSSES
\
BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM TAP
VACUUM SAFETY SWITCH MOUNTING HOLE 57x327A
Fig. 5 5 - l n t a k e Manifold (LC2, LC3, LY1)
AIR INTAKE PASSAGE
Fig. 56-Exhaust Manifold (All Models)
55x703A
Remove exhaust manifold retaining nuts, slide manifold off studs out and away from cylinder head.
Use care when removing manifold attaching nuts and bolts, because constant heating and cooling of manifolds may have caused them to freeze. Lubricate with a good grade of penetrating oil and allow to stand for several minutes before attempting removal.
c. Removal of Right Side Exhaust Manifold
Remove automatic integral choke heat tube from exhaust manifold. (Be careful not to bend tube when removing.) Remove bolts and nuts that hold exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold flange. Discard gasket. Remove oil filter cover and element. Remove bolt and clamp that hold ground cable and heat tube to cylinder head.
Remove nuts that hold exhaust manifold to cylinder head, loosen front engine mount nuts and jack up engine to slide manifold off studs and away from cylinder head.
NOTE: On all cars, exhaust pipe to transmission clamp and brackets have been eliminated so be sure exhaust pipe is sufficiently supported before removing exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.
31. INSPECTION OF INTAKE AND
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
(All Models)
Clean intake and exhaust manifolds in solvent; blow dry with compressed air. Inspect manifolds for cracks, distortion, or any other condition which would make them unfit for further service.
Particular attention should be given to "Hot
MyMopar.com
30—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
spot" chamber in intake manifold. If chamber is coated with hard black carbon, it must be scraped or sand blasted to remove deposit. The layers of carbon act as an insulator and retard heating action of exhaust gases on "hot spot" chamber which, in turn, affects vaporization rate of fuel passing through intake manifold.
When inspecting exhaust manifolds, be sure to check choke heat tube cavity inlet passage.
The passage and cavity must be clean and free from any obstructions. (See Fig. 56). New gaskets should be used when installing exhaust and intake manifolds and all mating surfaces must be clean and smooth.
32. EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS
AND TAIL PIPES
The exhaust system normally requires little service. The system should be checked periodically for leaking gaskets, broken supports or insulators and burned or blown out muffler or pipes. The exhaust pipe, muffler, and tail pipe are mounted by hangers which are insulated to isolate vibration. A support, with a special clamp and hanger supports tail pipe at rear of muffler, while another clamp and support mounted on rear of frame supports rear of tail pipe. The front support is adjustable.
33. EXHAUST SYSTEM (All Models)
When servicing exhaust system, it is rather difficult to remove clamps and disconnect pipes because of rust, dirt, or other foreign matter which has adhered to these parts. Lubricate nuts and bolts, which are to be removed, with a good grade of penetrating oil and wait several minutes before attempting removal. Hit connecting clamp several sharp bows with a soft hammer if clamps are rusted to pipes.
34. REMOVAL a. Cross-Over Exhaust Pipe
Refer to Fig. 51 and proceed as follows:
Remove clamp bolt from clamp at "Y" pipe and cross-over pipe connection. Remove bolts from left-hand exhaust manifold flange. Discard gasket. Remove cross-over pipe.
b. "Y" Exhaust Pipe
Remove clamp bolt from clamp connecting "Y" pipe and exhaust pipe. Remove bolts from right-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL hand exhaust manifold flanges, discard gasket.
On all cars be sure the exhaust system is sufficiently supported. Remove "Y" pipe.
c. Muffler
Loosen or remove clamp bolts at exhaust pipe to exhaust extension pipe and muffler assembly.
Remove muffler and extension pipe assembly.
d. Tail Pipe
Remove clamp bolt from front tail pipe bracket.
Remove clamp bolt from rear tail pipe bracket.
Jack up frame to relieve body weight from rear springs, remove tail pipe.
NOTE: In most instances where clamps are used, they will have to be spread before pipes can be removed.
35. INSTALLATION
When installing components of exhaust system start at exhaust manifolds and work toward rear until muffler is to be installed. Position tail pipe, install muffler. If entire exhaust system, or any component of it is being replaced, clamps and brackets should be tightened only to extent necessary to hold exhaust system in position.
The final tightening is done after system has been properly aligned.
36. DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM
The dual exhaust system is standard equipment on the LC2-LC3 models.
The service procedure for dual exhaust system (removal, installation and alignment) will be comparable to exhaust system for the LC-1 with following exceptions.
In dual exhaust system, cross-over and "Y" exhaust pipes are not used; there is an individual exhaust pipe, muffler and exhaust extension pipe and tail pipe for each cylinder bank. (Refer to Fig. 52).
37. ALIGNMENT OF EXHAUST SYSTEMS
Figs. 51, 52, and 53 illustrate various types of supports, insulators and clamps with procedures as follows:
Tighten exhaust manifold flange studs and nuts evenly, 40 foot-pounds torque. Install muffler and tail pipes and leave clamp bolts loose in order to align entire system. Check muffler
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL and tail pipes so that clearance of V& i n c n
* s maintained between frame, floor pan, bumper,
FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—31 shock absorber and fuel tank. Tighten all clamp bolts and brackets to 20 foot-pounds torque.
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE
The manifold heat control valve, as shown in
Fig. 57, is controlled by a thermostatic coil counterweight, and velocity of exhaust gas through exhaust manifold. The thermostatic coil is installed in a manner which will maintain sufficient tension on valve shaft to keep valve in closed position when engine is cold.
In closed position, hot gases circulate up and around "hot spot" chamber in intake manifold.
This, in turn, preheats vaporized fuel passing down through manifold, resulting in smooth engine performance.
NOTE: Should heat control valve become stuck in either open or closed position car performance would be affected.
38. TESTING MANIFOLD HEAT
CONTROL VALVE
Inspect operation of heat control valve periodically. With engine idling (car standing) accelerate to wide open throttle and release quickly. The counterweight should respond by moving clockwise approximately y^ inch and returning to its normal position. If no movement is observed, the valve shaft may be frozen or the coil is weak or broken. In either case, heat control valve should be disassembled and replaced with new parts.
57x329A
Fig. 58—Servicing the Valve Shaft a. Disassembly (Fig. 57)
Loosen retaining nut and remove counterweight, lock and stop from end of shaft, exposing the thermostatic coil. Unhook coil from pin and remove by prying out of valve shaft slot. If valve shaft is frozen in manifold, apply
Mopar Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent
Part No. 1879318 to both ends of shaft as shown in Figure 58, and allow to stand several minutes. Loosen by turning shaft clockwise or counter-clockwise (depending on frozen position) until shaft is free. Work shaft from closed to open position several times until shaft can be turned very easily with fingers.
LOCKWASHER
WIDE
OPEN
STOP
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
THERMOSTATIC COIL
VALVE SHAFT
ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
CLOSED STOP
COUNTERWEIGHT
THERMOSTATIC
COIL SPRING
57x328
Fig. 57-Manifold Heat Control Valve
STOP STUD
INSTALLED
POSITION
58x184 DIRECTION OF WRAP
FREE
POSITION
Fig. 59-Positioning the Thermostatic Coil
MyMopar.com
32—FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
| THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING
COUNTERWEIGH!.
ANTI-RATTLE
SPRING
SHAFT
57x331
Fig. 60—Installing the Heat Control Valve
Counterweight b. Assembly
Position valve shaft in extreme counter-clockwise position. Place the new coil in position
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL over shaft slot, with outer end tongue of coil in lower right-hand position, as shown in Figure 60. Press inner end of coil into slot of shaft and seat firmly.
Move outer end tonque around and hook under pin, as shown in Fig. 59. Place counterweight over shaft (with weight in upward position) and insert lock in shaft slot, as shown in Fig. 60. Center counterweight on shaft and turn assembly clockwise until stop passes the pin. Press counterweight on shaft until seated, install stop, and tighten nut securely with Tool
T-109-173. Test valve for proper operation.
c. Servicing
The manifold heat control valve should be checked for proper operation at all lubrications and engine tune-up. See Lubrication, Section
XV.
39. EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE a. Check for leaks.
b. Check system for bind. Loosen all hangers and test car by driving.
c. Check complete exhaust system for sign of failure, repair as required.
d. Install new gaskets as required after checking exhaust manifold for distortion. Be sure manifold registers evenly with cylinder head. Tighten nuts to 25 foot-pounds torque.
e. Install new gasket after checking flange for cracks or foreign material that will not allow gasket to seat properly. Tighten bolts evenly.
f. Remove exhaust manifold and check mating surfaces. Place manifold on smooth surface and check mating flanges for alignment. If manifold shows sign of distortion (more than .010
inch), install new manifold and gaskets.
g. Tighten clamps or replace as necessary.
40. LEAKING EXHAUST GASES a. Locate leak and correct.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
b. Install new manifold and gaskets, if necessary.
c. Check complete system for alignment and adjust as required. A leaking connection will be indicated by black streaks along pipes.
d. Install new muffler and tail pipes if needed. Check alignment of exhaust pipes, muffler and tail pipe. Align as necessary.
e. Remove manifold and install new gaskets if necessary, after carefully inspecting both cylinder head and manifold mating surfaces.
Tighten manifold nuts and bolts evenly, working from center to outer ends of manifold.
f. Check for bent or pinched exhaust or tail pipes. Such conditions will retard the flow of exhaust gases. Install new parts as required.
If excessive amount of carbon is present or if car is sluggish, install new muffler.
g. Tighten clamp at rear muffler connection.
41. ENGINE HARD TO WARM UP
Check operation of heat control valve and make necessary repairs.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEM—33
42. MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL b. Check for weak or broken anti-rattle
VALVE RATTLE spring- and make necessary repairs or replacement.
a. Check for broken thermostatic spring and
c
. Check shaft for looseness in body and cormake necessary correction. rect condition as necessary.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS—1
Section IX
FRAMES, SPRINGS AND
SHOCK ABSORBERS
CONTENTS
Page
Checking Frame Dimensions 3
Frame Alignment 5
Spring Maintenance 7
Rear Spring Interliners 7
Shock Absorbers 9
Servicing the Oriflow Shock Absorbers 10
Models
TYPE
DIMENSIONS
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
FRAME
LC-1 LC-2 LC-3 LY-1
Welded, Double Channel Box Section, Side-Rails
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
TYPE
NO. OF LEAVES
SEDANS
TOWN & COUNTRY WAGON
WIDTH
LENGTH
SHACKLE
HANGER
REAR SPRINGS
Semi-Elliptic
5 6 7 7
6 - 7
2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
57 in. 60 in. 60 in. 60 in.
Silent Block Rubber Bushings
Side Strapped with Rubber Bushed Bolts
MyMopar.com
2—FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SHOCK ABSORBERS
Models LC-1, LC-2, LC-3, LY-1
TYPE Oriflow, Double Acting, Hydraulic
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
REAR SPRING SILENT BLOCK NUT
(Foot-Pounds)
100 y
2
" UPPER
%" LOWER.
60
70 SHOCK ABSORBER STUD NUT
REAR SPRING U-CLIP BOLT NUTS
REAR SPRING SHACKLE NUTS %"
SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNT NUT (REAR)
70
50
60
ESSENTIAL TOOLS
C-3413 Remover and Installer —Shock Absorber Lower Mounting Assembly
483/8
5V8
GAUGE HOLE IN EACH SIDE OF FRAME
Fig. 1—Frame Dimensions—Windsor
57x103A
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS—3
SECTION IX
FRAMES, SPRINGS AND
SHOCK ABSORBERS
A new full length box section frame with redesigned crossmembers and longer side rails are used on 1958 Chrysler Models.
Two front crossmembers are now used, the forward member for bumper, radiator support and strut attachment and the other for engine and suspension support.
The convertible coupe frames have X-members as formerly, to reduce the increased body shake that is inherent in this model and improve frame to body attachment. A frame to rear axle control strut is continued for the Imperial Models. (See Paragraph 8, "Universal
Joint", Section XII, for adjustment procedures).
FRAME
1. CHECKING FRAME DIMENSIONS
In case of collision, frame members can often be satisfactorily straightened to the required dimensional limits. In case of serious damage or fracture to front crossmembers, upper and lower control arms and steering knuckle, the component parts, ball joints and steering arms should be replaced.
CAUTION
Under no circumstances should the control arms, knuckles, steering arms or torsion bars be heated for straightening. Heating these parts will anneal the metal and lower their strength to a point which will make them dangerously weak for further use.
48
GAUGE HOLE IN EACH
SIDE OF FRAME-
TOP OF FRAME LINE-
Fig. 2—Frame Dimensions—Saratoga and New Yorker
57x138
MyMopar.com
4—FRAMES, SPRINGS a n d SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
GAUGE HOLE IN EACH SIDE OF FRAME
Fig. 3—Frame Dimensions—Convertible (New Yorker)
57x231
6
9
/i6
GAUGE HOLE IN EACH
SIDE OF FRAME\ 13V
TT
TOP OF FRAME LINE'
Fig. 4—Frame Dimensions—Imperial
57x140A
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAMES, SPRINGS a n d SHOCK ABSORBERS—5
GAUGE HOLE IN
EACH SIDE OF FRAME
6*.
T
TOP OF FRAME LINE
58x263
Fig. 5—Frame Dimensions—Imperial, 4-Door H.T. and Convertible
Before a member is replaced, it is essential that frame alignment be checked and corrected if necessary. Whenever possible, parts should be securely fastened with hot rivets. In cases where no riveting equipment is available, finished bolts snugly fitted in reamed holes may be used. The nuts should be securely tightened and non-spreading lockwashers used. (Cold rivets are not recommended unless adequate power press equipment is available to do a secure riveting job.) When welding frame members, care must be taken to localize the heat so that the steel hardness of frame will be retained.
Reinforcement welds should run lengthwise, along side of reinforcement.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 show various dimensions to be used as a guide for checking frame alignment. These dimensions are the true distance between two points as measured with a steel tape.
Figure 5 shows a few of various measurements that may be taken to check "squareness" of frame. Diagonal measure will quickly determine which section of frame is bent and where force should be applied to restore correct alignment.
2. FRAME ALIGNMENT
To properly check a frame for alignment, diagonal measurement should be performed with great care. When body is removed, the frame may be easily checked for alignment by measur-
Fig. 6—Typical Frame Diagonal Measurements
MyMopar.com
6—FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ing diagonals as shown in Figure 6, with trammels or steel tape and check dimensions given in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4. Measurements may be taken without removing body from chassis by using plumb-bob and chalk line on level floor.
Attach line of plumb-bob to one of rear body bolts. The plumb-bob should be suspended slightly above floor. When plumb-bob comes to rest, mark floor directly underneath it. The marks made on floor will represent various points of frame to be checked diagonally.
Move car away so the distance can be measured to compare with the diagonal measurements, shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.
3. REPLACING BODY SUPPORT BRACKETS
The body support brackets are welded to frame in manufacturing. Due to "Box" construction of frame, rivets cannot be used to attach a new body bracket to frame.
Cut damaged bracket off frame, file surface smooth. Clamp new bracket in correct position and weld securely to frame member. The shielded arc-weld method is recommended for frame welding, or replacement of body frame support brackets. The heat generated from welding operation is localized and burning of material is held to a minimum when a mild steel welding rod is used. Install body bolt and washers, insulator and nut. Tighten to 18 footpounds torque. On Convertibles, install a solid spacer, bolt and nut, and tighten securely.
SPRINGS
The rear springs (Fig. 7) are of the semi-elliptical design. The front ends of rear springs are
PIVOT BOLT
WASHER
BUSHING
WASHER
NUT mounted outboard of the frame side rails and attached to hangers. (See Fig. 8).
SHACKLE
BUSHINGS
SHACKLE
BUSHING
I WASHER
I NUT
^ ^ "U" BOLTS
NUTS
PLATE
LOCKWASHERS
BOLT
NUT
NUTS
Fig. 7—Typical Rear Springs Suspension (Disassembled View)
57x68
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS—7
HANGER
Fig. 8—Rear Springs Front Mounting
57x66 spected at regular intervals and kept tight to prevent spring breakage. Tighten spring "U" bolt nuts to 70 foot-pounds torque. The spring shackles should be inspected occasionally to make sure they are tight, but not binding.
Tighten to 50 foot-pounds torque. No lubrication of any kind should be used on rubber bushings.
The height of the car may be affected if rear spring height varies more than % inch on one side as compared with other side. To check this, measure vertical distance from top of rear spring main leaf to underside of frame side rail on both sides of car. If these distances differ by more than % inch, this is an indication that one of rear springs may need to be replaced. This condition could also be due to a bent frame kickup or an incorrectly welded spring saddle.
The front and rear spring shackle bolts are cushioned in rubber which tends to reduce road noise to a minimum. (No lubrication is required at the rear shackles.) (See Fig. 9).
To eliminate "spring wind-up" on acceleration, an additional spring leaf has been added to front section of rear spring.
The width of spring leaves are 2V2 inches
(refer to "Data and Specifications"). Thus, with outboard-mounted rear springs, rear-end roll is greatly reduced and car stability on curves or sharp turns is maintained.
Should it become necessary to install new springs or silent blocks, it will be necessary to remove the rear spring silent block nut bolt and lockwasher to remove rear spring.
4. SPRING MAINTENANCE
It is important that spring "U" bolts be in-
CAUTION
Care should be taken when replacing rear spring on Imperial Models to see that the rear axle housing to frame struts are shimmed properly, so as to maintain correct propeller shaft to axle pinion shaft angle. (See Section XII).
5. REPLACEMENT OF REAR
SPRING INTERLOPERS
The 1958 Chrysler rear springs are similar to those previously used with exception of rear spring interliners. To replace interliners, proceed as follows: Examine spring interliners
(Fig. 10). If any are missing, or if any have lost their metal fasteners, they must be replaced.
SHACKLES
BUSHINGS
Fig. 9—Rear Spring Shackles
57x67
Fig. 10—Front Interliner
MyMopar.com
8—FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
57x506
Fig. 11—Rear Interliner a. Removal
Unload rear springs by jacking up the rear end of frame until rear shock absorbers are fully extended. Remove alignment clips from springs.
If any of removed parts (nut, bolt, spacer, clip) are damaged, use corresponding replacement parts. Pry out metal fastener directly beneath spring leaf surface and slip out old interliner, after separating the spring leaf to which interliner was fastened from the next longer spring leaf. To effect this separation, pry open the slight gap between leaves with a screwdriver until a tapered bar can be hammered in place between screwdriver and interliner, as shown in Figure 11. Keep tapered bar in place.
Clean the lower (grooved) surface of the longer spring leaf as far as interliner makes
Fig. 13—Prying Interliner Fastner Through Leaf contact. Use sandpaper wrapped around a flat file and scrub vigorously to remove any dirt or rust spots to obtain smooth metallic surfaces to left and right of groove. Wipe off excess particles, including dirt in groove itself, with a clean cloth. In order to reach between leaves, open gap by bearing down on end of tapered bar.
b. Installation of Interliner (Fig. 12)
Slip new interliner in place by opening gap between the spring leaves again with tapered bar and moving interliner until prongs of metal fasteners are aligned with holes in the shorter leaf, as shown in Figure 12. With tapered bar still in place, pry prong end of each metal fastener through hole in spring leaf.
Fig. 12-Positioning New Interliners Fig. 14—Tightening Aligning Clip
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS—9
Remove tapered bar which has remained between leaves during these operations. The bar may be withdrawn while a screwdriver is placed alongside. Then the screwdriver may be pulled out, reversing operation which was used to insert bar in position. A faster method for withdrawing bar is to insert end of a bar with a short tapered hook alongside the tapered bar.
After tapered bar has been withdrawn, the bar with hook can be slipped out easily using leverage motion inward on the far end of hooked bar. Position wrap-around alignment clip and tighten retainer nut, as shown in Figures 13 and 14. Peen end of bolt over nut so it will not loosen.
SHOCK ABSORBER
Chrysler cars are equipped with double acting
Oriflow shock absorbers. In the Oriflow shock absorber, resistance is built up slowly at beginning of stroke so as not to jolt passengers. This resistance is increased to a maximum at mid stroke and is tapered off to zero at end of movement. The major part of dampening is accomplished at high velocity mid-operation of stroke where no jolt can originate. There can be little jolt at beginning and at end of stroke because both velocities of movement and the resistance offered by the shock absorber are low at those points.
absorber piston speed. Then drive over a fairly smooth road to test resistance during slower shock absorber piston speeds.
Hand testing Oriflow shock absorbers will only reveal complete failure. The amount of ride control evident from a hand test on bench is small, compared with control exerted under actual riding conditions. For this reason, it is impossible to feel any sudden resistance in an
Oriflow shock absorber, no matter how fast it is operated by hand.
This simply means that the piston encounters minimum resistance at beginning of stroke and is gradually slowed down by increased resistance due to fluid velocity through the orifices.
In turn, slow movement of piston causes fluid velocity to decrease and offer minimum resistance at termination of stroke.
SEAL RETAINER
UPPER MOUNTING
BUSHING ASSEMBLY
•PISTON ROD
To improve the riding qualities of the 1958 cars the valving of the front shock absorber has been revised to afford more control to spring action under varying road conditions.
RESERVOIR SEAL'
ROD GUIDE
OIL SEAL CUP
OIL SEAL
N
O I L SEAL SPRING
COMPRESSION
RELIEF VALVE
6. TESTING ORIFLOW SHOCK ABSORBERS
Oriflow shock absorbers are designed to operate with low resistance when operated slowly and with high resistance when operated rapidly.
Since they operate with little resistance when compressed by hand or by bench test methods, their true operating efficiency can only be determined by a road test. It is impossible to determine operating efficiency of Oriflow shock absorbers by rocking the car by the bumper.
When road testing, drive car over a fairly rough road to test resistance under fast shock
REBOUND
RELIEF VALVE
57X220
ORIFICE PLATE
PISTON
BAFFLE
X
PISTON NUT
CHECK VALVE SPRING
CHECK VALVE
CHECK VALVE SEAT
BASE CUP AND
RING ASSEMBLY
Fig. 15—Front Shock Absorber
MyMopar.com
10—FRAMES, SPRINGS and SHOCK ABSORBERS CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
7. SERVICING THE ORIFLOW
SHOCK ABSORBERS
The Oriflow shock absorber cannot be refilled or disassembled. Where servicing is required, the shock must be removed and a new unit installed. SHOCK ABSORBERS SHOULD ONLY
BE REPLACED IF THEY HAVE LOST THEIR
RESISTANCE IN ONE OR BOTH DIRECTIONS
OR IF THEY DRIP OIL. EVIDENCE OF OIL
MOISTURE IS NOT CAUSE TO REPLACE
THEM AS SEAL MUST SEEP TO PREVENT
SCORING.
8. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FRONT
SHOCK ABSORBERS a. Removed (Fig. 15)
From the engine compartment remove dirt and grit from around shock absorber piston rod and upper retainer housing. Remove piston rod nut and retainer washer. Place jack in center of engine front crossmember and raise vehicle off floor. Remove shock absorber to lower control arm bracket attaching nut, bolt and washer.
Disengage shock absorber eye from control arm bracket. Push lower portion of absorber up into frame housing sufficiently to clear lower bracket. Remove shock absorber.
NOTE: Care must be taken to see that the lower shock absorber mounting upper washer on the piston shaft is recovered from shock absorber housing when removing the shock absorber.
b. Installation
Place upper mounting retainer washer cupped
TOOL
57x71
Fig. 16— Installing Shock Absorber Eye Bushing
SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY
Fig. 17—Rear Shock Absorber Installed side up, on shock absorber piston rod. Compress shock absorber piston rod into shock absorber.
Insert assembly up through opening in frame to allow piston rod to enter upper housing bushing. While holding in position, install upper mounting retainer washer (cupped side down) and nut. Hold piston rod with suitable wrench and tighten nut to approximately 24 footpounds torque or until upper and lower mounting washer contacts steel spacer in bushing.
Position lower end of shock absorber in lower control arm mounting bracket, install attaching bolt, nut and lockwasher, tighten to 40 footpounds torque.
9. REPLACING SHOCK ABSORBER PISTON
SHAFT UPPER BUSHING
NOTE: The upper bushing should be checked whenever the shock absorber is removed from car.
a. Removal
If bushing is worn or damaged proceed as follows : Remove bushing inner steel spacer from bushing and with a suitable drift remove piston shaft bushing from frame housing.
b. Installation
Remove inner bushing spacer from replacement bushing. Immerse bushing in water (do not use brake fluid, soap or other alkaline fluids). Insert bushing in housing and with a twisting motion press bushing in place. Install bushing spacer.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL FRAMES, SPRINGS a n d SHOCK ABSORBERS—11
10. REPLACING LOWER SHOCK ABSORBER
EYE BUSHING
Remove the lower shock absorber bushing sleeve in vise or arbor press as shown in Figure 16.
NOTE: To avoid damaging bushings when installing bushings, press against the steel sleeve.
11. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF REAR
SHOCK ABSORBERS (Fig. 17)
To remove rear shock absorber, remove nuts from shock absorber mounting stud pins which pass through eyes at top and bottom of shock absorber, and remove shock absorber.
When installing a shock absorber, install bushings in the shock absorber's eye. Install inner bushing retainers, shock absorber and bushing assembly and outer retainers and nut.
The concave face of each retainer must fit against convex face of adjacent bushing. Tighten to specified torque.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section X
STEERING
CONTENTS
STEERING—1
MANUAL
Page
Removal and Assembly of Steering Wheel 6
Removal of Manual Steering Gear Assembly 7
Steering Gear Alignment 7
CONSTANT CONTROL FULL TIME
POWER STEERING
Removal and Installation Power Steering Unrt 12
Disassembly of'Steering Gear 13
Disassembly of Power Train 15
Column Jacket Support Assembly 16
Cylinder Head 16
Steering Valve Assembly 17
Final Test, Adjustments and Specifications. 21
Removal and Installation Power Steering Pump (Sleeve Type) 22
Removal and Installation Power Steering Pump (Slipper Type) 28
Service Diagnosis 31
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
LC-1 LG-2 LC-3 MODELS
Steering Type
Manual
Power
Ratio
Manual
Power
Turning Radius (Curb to Curb)
Number Wheel Turns
Manual
Power
Tread-Front
Rear
Wheel Base
LY-1
Worm and Three
Tooth Roller None None
Rack and Gear Sector, Recirculating Ball Nut
None
20.4
16.1
42.3
5.6
3.5
61.0
59.7
122.0
. . . .
16.1
45.4
3.5
61.0
59.7
126.0
16.1
3.5
61.2
60.0
126.0
None
16.1
49.5
3.5
61.9
62.4
129.0
MyMopar.com
2—STEERING
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Confd)
MODELS LC-1 LC-2 LC-3 LY-1
Camber
Left
Right
-f 34 degree ±
Y
/i degree
0 degree ± 34 degree
Preferred Left + % degree, Right 0 degree
Left 34 degree to % degree algebraically greater than right
*Caster
Manual
Power
Toe-in (Outside Thread Inches)
Toe-Out on Turns
— % degree ± % degree with Manual Steering
+ % degree ± % degree with Power Steering
Y%±%. in. (V s
in. Preferred)
21 degrees 45 minutes ± 1 degree (inner wheel when outer wheel is 20 degrees)
Steering Axis Inclination at Camber
(Degree)
Steering Knuckle Type
5 to 7 degrees at 0 degree
Ball and Socket
Front Wheel Bearing Type
Inner Bearing Size
Outer Bearing Size
Spindle Thread Size
Steering Linkage Type
Tapered Roller Bearing
1.25 1.25 1.25 1.375
.75 .75 .75 .844
J i - 1 6 ( N F )
Symmetric Idler Arm (Equal Length Tie Rods)
*Caster should be equalized as near as possible on Left and Right wheel.
POWER STEERING PUMP SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS
Fluid Capacity of Hydraulic System.. .
Type of Fluid
Maximum Pump Pressure
Maximum Fluid Flow at 3,000 R.P.M.
Maximum Pump Rotor Clearances
Flow Control Valve Spring
Free Length
Working Length
Force at Working Length
Slipper Type Sleeve Type
64 Fluid ounces 64 Fluid ounces
Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A)
850 to 950 psi.
2.25 gal.
.001-.0015
750 to 900 psi.
2.25 gal.
.012
3.15
2.35
16 ± .65 lb.
4.0 inches
1.5 inches
12.5+ 1.25 lbs.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
POWER STEERING PUMP
SPECIFICATIONS (Cont'd)
Slipper Type MODELS
Pressure Relief Valve Spring
Free Length
Working Length
Force at Working Length
STEERING—3
Sleeve Type
.825 inch
3
54 inch
12.5 to 14 lbs.
Tool Number
C-3402.
C-3428.
SPECIAL TOOLS
MANUAL STEERING
Tool Name
. Pitman Arm Puller
.Steering Wheel Puller
CONSTANT CONTROL FULL TIME
POWER STEERING
Tool Number Tool Name
C-3106 •..-...' ,• ... .Pliers-Snap Ring Bearing Retainer
C-3128 Pliers-Snap Ring
C-3211.. ,.Hose-High Pressure
C-3233 Driver-Shaft Bushing
C-3229.. Pliers-Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Snap Ring
C-3309B Gauge-Pressure Check
C-3318.. Hose-Low Pressure
C-3332 Remover-Gear Shaft Bearing
C-3333 Driver-Gear Shaft Bearing
C-3350. Remover and Installer-Gear Shaft Seal
C-3388 Hose-Coupling
C-3532. Adapters
C-3602 Fixture-Pump Assembly
C-3615. Puller-Steering Pump Pulley
C-3633 Nut Wrench-Gear Cross Shaft Retainer
C-3634. Adjusting Wrench-Gear Support Nut
C-3638 Seal Remover-Gear Worm Shaft
C-3640 Seal Driver-Pump Shaft
C-3642 Seal Puller-Pump
C-3643 Supporting Stand-Pump Shaft
C-3646 Puller-Steering Arm
C-3649.. Aligning Tool — Gear Spacer to Housing
C-3650 Seal Driver-Gear Worm Shaft
C-3655 Remover —Hydraulic Steering Pump Flow Control Valve Bore Plug
C-760.. Pliers-Snap Ring
MTU-36 One Ounce Pull Scale
MyMopar.com
4—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
MANUAL STEERING
Foot-Pounds
Torque
Steering Gear to Frame Bolt 50
Steering Gear Pitman Arm Nut 120
Steering Wheel Nut 40
Steering Knuckle Arm Bolt 50
Steering Linkage Ball Stud Nut 40
Idler Arm Bolt Bushing Nut 60
Tie Rod Clamp Bolt and Nut 150 In.-Pounds
CONSTANT CONTROL FULL TIME
POWER STEERING
Foot-Pounds
Torque
Steering Wheel Nut 40
Steering Arm Nut 120
Steering Gear Housing to Frame Bolt 50
Steering Valve End Plug 50
Steering Valve Body Attaching Bolts 15
Steering Column Support Nut 150
Steering Gear Shaft Cover Nut 100
Steering Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Lock Nut 50
Pressure Control Valve Body Screws 10
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
MODELS
Reservoir Cover Bolt
Flow Spring Retainer Fitting
Bearing Cap to Body
STEERING—5
RESERVOIR
Slipper Type Sleeve Type
Thread Size Foot-Pounds
15
Thread Size Foot-Pounds
10
20
25
PUMP
MODELS
Pump Assembly Bolt
Hose Connector Outlet...
Flow Divider Valve Plug.
Slipper Type Sleeve Type
Thread Size
56x18
5^x18
14 xU
Foot-Pounds
15
30
20
PLATE
SHIMS BUSHING
v S E A L
,CAGE AND ROLLERS \ \ i
CUP
WORM
CAGE AND ROLLERS
HOCKWASHER
PLUG
Fig. 1—Steering G e a r Assembly (Disassembled View)
57x366
MyMopar.com
6—STEERING
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section X
STEERING
MANUAL
A modified three-tooth roller and worm steering gear assembly (Fig. 1) is used in the
Chrysler 1958 cars, equipped with manual steering. The steering gear is mounted inboard of the frame and can be serviced without removal from car.
The worm is integral with the steering tube and is supported at each end by tapered roller bearings. The worm bearing preload is adjusted by means of shims placed between housing and housing end cover. The steering gear shaft rotates in two bronze bushings pressed into the steering gear housing. The three-tooth roller on shaft is meshed with worm. When the steering wheel is turned, the worm rotates the steering gear shaft and roller, moving the steering gear arm, which is splined to end of shaft and held in place with a nut.
Backlash between steering gear shaft roller tooth and worm is controlled by an adjusting screw that is threaded through shaft and roller cover. The base end of adjusting screw is engaged in the hole in end of the steering gear shaft. Correct backlash can be obtained by turning adjusting screw in or out, as required.
gear arm have master serrations to insure correct installation.
The high point is the point of least clearance between the worm and roller and is at midpoint of worm and roller travel.
NOTE: Proper steering gear adjustments influence the performance of the steering gear assembly. Care should be taken to accomplish proper shaft and worm high point setting since this adjustment limits the turning circle on each side of center.
1. REMOVAL OF STEERING
WHEEL ASSEMBLY
Disconnect battery. Turn ornament counterclockwise and remove (Fig. 2). Disconnect wire from terminal, remove three screws, three bushings and remove horn ring (Fig. 3). Remove horn blowing contact ring switch from steering wheel hub. Loosen steering wheel nut three full turns and attach steering wheel puller Tool C-3428 and remove nut and steering wheel.
The steering wheel and arm are splined to the steering tube and steering gear shaft, respectively. Both steering wheel and steering
2. ASSEMBLY OF STEERING
WHEEL ASSEMBLY
Attach steering wheel to hub and tighten nut.
57x528
Fig. 2—Removing or Installing Steering
Wheel Ornament
57x529
Fig. 3—Removing or Installing Steering Wheel
Horn Ring
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Install contact ring switch, connect wire to terminal. Install horn ring and tighten three screws. Turn ornament clockwise in hub. Reinstall battery cable.
3. REMOVAL OF MANUAL STEERING GEAR
ASSEMBLY (Figs. 1, 2 and 3) a. Removal (From Vehicle)
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the steering column and mast assembly from car to service gear lower worm bearings and cross shaft assembly.
Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the steering wheel and disconnect the horn and turn signal wires at the instrument panel. Remove jacket tube clamp at the steering gear housing. Remove the steering jacket support clamp at the instrument panel. Remove the dust shield at the firewall. Remove the floor opening panel. Remove the steering gear arm with Tool C-3402. Remove the steering gear housing to frame bolts. Slide the steering gear jacket tube and remove control units rearward, through the drivers compartment as an assembly. Remove the brake pedal pad and remove gear from engine compartment side of firewall.
b. Disassembly Steering Gear Assembly (Fig. 1)
Remove gear shaft adjusting screw lock nut, shaft cover, and gasket, and steering gear shaft and roller tooth assembly. Remove gear shaft oil seal from housing. Remove cover and shims from bottom of housing. Remove steering tube and worm assembly, bearing cups and cages.
c. Reassemble Steering Gear Assembly (Fig. 1)
Clean all parts in a suitable solvent. Check all parts for wear.
NOTE: Assemble parts without lubrication.
Lubrication should be done after adjustments are completed.
If either of the worm thrust roller bearings are damaged, replace both bearings. Use new oil seals. The steering gear housing and bushing assembly is serviced only as an assembly.
Insert worm and tube into housing with bearings and cups. Install shims and lower housing cover, making sure bearings are seated. When tightening cover, turn worm tube to be sure no bind exists. Final tightening of
STEERING—7
cover screws cause end play to disappear, with torque of % to % pound required to rotate the tube, when measured with the pull applied at rim of steering wheel. Add or remove shims in event a bind or excessive end play occurs.
Shims are available in .003, .006, .011 and .025
inch.
Install gear shaft. Before installing cover, turn adjusting screw all the way out. Place steering wheel on tube and rotate steering wheel in one direction to the end of its travel.
Rotate wheel in other direction to the end of its travel, counting the turns. Rotate wheel back i/
2
full number of turns. This is center of travel (high point). Turn adjusting screw
(clockwise) until all end play in roller shaft is gone. Rotate wheel to one end of its travel and apply a spring scale of torque wrench.
With pull applied at rim of steering wheel, tension should measure from 1 to 2 pounds.
The greatest tension should be felt as the wheel is rotated past the center position (high point).
Adjust bearing load by turning adjusting screw in or out. Install lock plate nut and steering gear arm. Fill gear housing with SAE
90 Gear Lubricant and check for leaks.
d. Installation (In Vehicle)
Install the steering column dust shield on column. Install the steering gear assembly from the engine side of fire wall. Install mounting bolts and attach nuts, tighten to 15 foot-pounds torque. Install the jacket tube clamp at the gear housing. Slide the steering gear jacket tube, and remove control assembly through the floor panel opening. Install the jacket support to dash bracket, align and tighten screws 50 inch-pounds torque. Tighten the steering gear housing to frame bolts 50 foot-pounds torque.
Install the steering gear arm nut and washer and tighten 120 foot-pounds torque. Connect horn and turn signal wires at instrument panel.
Install floor opening panel and dust shield. Install steering wheel, horn ring and ornament.
Connect battery.
4. STEERING GEAR ALIGNMENT
A slight bind of the steering gear may be caused by shifting of body due to loosened bolts. Tighten body bolts. Loosen the steering gear at frame, and dash bracket to allow the
MyMopar.com
8—STEERING
ADJUSTING SCREW
ADJUSTING SCREW
LOCKNUT
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
5. ADJUSTMENT (In Car) (Fig. 4) a. Adjusting Steering Tube Worm Bearings
Remove steering gear arm, drain the housing and disconnect horn wire at connector. Remove grease retainer cover at bottom of steering gear housing and remove necessary shims to eliminate excessive end play. Add shims of necessary thickness, to eliminate a binding condition. If any tightness exists, too many shims have been removed or the steering assembly is out of alignment. See "Steering Gear
Alignment," Paragraph 4.
54x694 A
Fig. 4—Steering Gear Adjustments steering gear to move in relation to the frame.
Tighten mounting bolts 50 foot-pounds torque.
Position the center of steering column in center of the instrument panel. If this cannot be done by moving the frame bracket, add metal washer shims between frame and frame bracket to eliminate all bind.
b. Adjustments of Roller Tooth and Worm
(In Car)
Disconnect steering gear ar mat link. Rotate steering wheel to mid-position and check for backlash by attempting to move steering gear arm back and forth. If backlash exists, remove roller shaft adjustment screw locknut and tighten adjusting screw enough to eliminate free play. Be sure the roller shaft and worm do not bind. Check backlash again. Install adjusting screw locknut and steering gear arm.
COTTERPIN
GEAR ARM
LINK
COTTERPIN
NUT / \ I / NUT
NUT
CLAMP
NUT 1
KNUCKLE ARM
COTTERPIN
NUT
CLAMP
IDLER ARM
NUT
NUT
COTTERPIN
COTTERPIN
FITTING 1
KNUCKLE
NUT
SLEEVE
CLAMP
FITTING
TIE ROD
CLAMP
BOLT
TIE ROD
FITTING
SEAL
SEAL BOLT
SEAL
57x69
Fig. 5—Steering Gear Linkage
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
6. SERVICING THE IDLER ARM (Fig. 5)
The idler arm and bushing is serviced as an assembly. With wheels in straight-ahead position check opening of idler arm bracket (should be 2^4 inches). Install idler arm assembly. Apply lubriplate to support bolt. Tighten nut to
60 foot-pounds torque and install cotter pin.
7. STEERING KNUCKLE TIE RODS (Fig. 5) a. Removal
NOTE: Tie rod end and bolt is serviced only as an assembly.
Loosen nut on rod ball and remove tie rod end with Tool C-3394. Insert leg of tool between the steering linkage knuckle arm and tie rod end. Turn puller screw against tie rod end nut, forcing tie rod end from the knuckle arm. Remove tie rod from center link by placing leg of puller between center link and tie rod end. Remove tie rod end assembly from tie rod by loosening clamps and unscrewing the rod end assembly.
b. Installation
NOTE: The clamping bolts must be beneath tie rods to prevent interference on turns. Check
STEERING—9 and adjust toe-in when new tie rods are installed.
When installing tie rod ends to the rod tube, be sure to thread the ends evenly on tube body to nominal length to obtain proper positioning
1 of steering wheel.
8. ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT
WHEEL BEARINGS
(Refer to Front Wheel Suspension, Section I)
Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut with an inch-pound torque wrench 90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel. Position the nut lock, over the adjusting nut so the spindle cotter pin hole is in line with one set of the slots in the nut lock. Without removing the nut lock, back off the nut until the next set of slots are lined up with the spindle cotter pin hole. Insert and bend the cotter pin to secure the nut lock.
NOTE: This procedure should result in from
.000 inch (no preload) to .003 inch bearing free play measured axially. It is important to remove any burrs or nicks on the spindle thread to insure accurate readings.
NOTE: Check to make certain that cancelling dogs on steering wheel actuate the direction switch.
CONSTANT CONTROL FULL TIME
POWER STEERING
The Constant Control Full Time Power Steering is a completely new power steering gear system consisting of a hydraulic pressure pump a power steering gear and connecting hoses.
The power steering gear (Figs. 6 and 7) consists of a gear housing, containing a gear shaft and sector gear, a power piston with gear teeth milled into the side of the piston is in constant mesh with the gear shaft sector teeth, a worm shaft connects the steering wheel to the power unit piston through a coupling. Figure 7 shows how the wormshaft is geared to the piston through recirculating ball contact. At the upper end of the piston, a flange carries the rubber "D" ring which separates the power chambers of the piston.
A steering gear valve lever upper end is fitted into a spool valve in the steering gear valve body and the bottom end into a radially drilled hole in the thrust bearing center race. The valve lever pivots in the bearing center race spacer. The spacer is compressed at its outer diameter between the steering gear cylinder head and the column jacket support, holding the spacer in a fixed position. The center thrust bearing race which tips the valve lever (which in turn actuates the steering valve) is held firmly against a shoulder on the wormshaft by two thrust bearings, bearing races and an adjusting nut. The center thrust bearing race is, in effect, clamped axially to the wormshaft and must therefore move with the wormshaft whenever the steering wheel is turned.
MyMopar.com
10—STEERING
RIGHT TURN
POWER
CHAMBER
POWER PISTON
MAIN HOUSING
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
LEFT TURN
POWER
CHAMBER
OIL OUT
VALVE BODY
V
SPOOL VALVE
PIVOT LEVER
CENTER THRUST
BEARING RACE
STEERING
COLUMN
CONNECTION
COLUMN JACKET
SUPPORT
WORM SHAFT
BALANCING RING
LEFT TURN
REACTION RING
RIGHT TURN
WORM SHAFT REACTION RING
RECIRCULATING BALL CIRCUITS
STEERING GEAR
CROSS SHAFT
58x199
Fig. 6—Steering Gear (Sectional View)
In this description, the left end of the steering gear means the lower end, and the right end means the upper /end of the steering gear.
For simplicity, direction of flow will be de-
CROSS SHAFT
SECTOR GEAR
POWER PISTON 5 8 x 1 9 8
Fig. 7—Steering Gear Housing (Sectional View) scribed as flowing to left or flowing to right as shown in the following illustrations.
When the car is in the straight-ahead direction, the steering valve is in the neutral (center) position and oil flow through both of the grooves in the steering valve body is equal, since, in the neutral position, (Fig. 8), the two lands of the steering valve are centered in the grooves of the valve body. The left oil passage directs its oil where it contacts the right end of the power piston and across into the right reaction chamber. Part of this oil is forced around the grooves of the wormshaft, inside the piston and around the recirculating balls, to the hollow area between the left end of the wormshaft and the left end of the power piston. Pressure on end of wormshaft is bal-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TO RESERVOIR
4 PUMP
PRESSURE IN
58x200
Fig. 8-Steering Gear Valve (Neutral Position) anced by the pressure against the area of the wormshaft balancing ring.
At the same time, oil from the right groove in the steering valve is directed to the left, through a galley, parallel to the wormshaft.
This oil flows to the area to the left of the power piston flange. Part of this oil is then directed through the cylinder head into the left reaction chamber.
Forces exerted on the piston through oil pressure on its faces are completely balanced by two worm reaction rings. These are shown in cross section in Figure 9 on either side of the pivot lever through the center bearing race.
STEERING—11
The reaction ring shown to the left of the center bearing race is fed oil from the right— turn power chamber oil galley through a drilled hole as shown in Figure 9.
When the driver makes a left turn, power is immediately provided by the unit to effect the turn. As the wormshaft rotates inside the power piston, the piston is prevented from instantly "climbing down" the wormshaft by the resisting forces which the steering linkage and wheels transmit to the steering gear crossshaft. Instead, the wormshaft is "drawn out" of the piston a very small amount ( a few thousands of an inch). The center thrust bearing race, which is in effect clamped axially to the wormshaft, moves the same distance. The race thus tips the pivot lever and moves the spool valve to the left (down).
The oil flow diagram for a left turn is shown in Figure 10. Here it can be seen that as the left edges of the two lands on the valve approach the groove edges of the valve body, two things happen: First, flow to the right groove in the valve body is reduced. Secondly, the flow of oil to the left groove is increased because the opening is larger. Oil then flows from the power steering pump through the enlarged orifice and through the oil galley to the left turn power chamber of the piston. Since the supply of oil to the left side (right turn chamber) of the pist6n has been cut off by movement of the spool valve, a force unbalance on the
TO RESERVOIR
4 PUMP
PRESSURE IN
PIVOT LEVER
. PRESSURE PLATE
CENTER THRUST
BEARING RACE
SPACER
WORM SHAFT
RIGHT TURN REACTION
RING AND RING SEAL
LEFT TURN REACTION
RING AND LIP SEAL
Fig. 9—Reaction Area
58x201 t
T 0 P I S T 0 N
i mill
RETURN FLOW U-l 58x202
Fig. 10—Steering Gear Valve in Left Turn Position
MyMopar.com
12—STEERING
RIGHT TURN
POWER CHAMBE
LEFT TURN
POWER CHAMBER
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TO RESERVOIR
4 PUMP
PRESSURE IN
SPOOL VALVE
VALVE ACTUATING
LEVER
58x203
LEFT TURN
REACTION RINGS
Fig. 1 1 - O i l Flow (Left Turn Position) piston exists, and it is pushed to the left. Its linear movement is translated into rotation of the cross-shaft sector gear (Fig. 7), and subsequently through the steering linkage to the front wheels.
This entire action takes place instantaneously whenever the steering wheel is turned to the left.
In the reaction area of the steering unit another action takes place simultaneously as the wheel is turned to the left (Fig. 11). The restraining force of the reaction spring must be overcome before the center race can move to the right. The force of the reaction spring provides positive returnability to the unit. At the instant when power assistance is no longer desired by the driver, the reaction spring and operating oil pressure move the race and spool valve back to the neutral position. Equal oil flow then is directed through the unit, and no power assist is provided.
The force of this reaction spring also contributes to increased on-center "feel". The
"feel" is further provided by operating oil pressure which tends to return the center thrust bearing race to its neutral position. The driver feels this force on the reaction rings shown in Figure 6, as a force proportional to operating oil pressure. It causes the driver to exert a steering effort proportional to the total force required to turn the front wheels of the car. The force he actually exerts is only a small percentage of the total force that would be required to steer the car with a manual gear. If oil pressure is interrupted to the steering gear, it would operate with increased effort and there would be more steering wheel free play. Steering wheel movement by the driver will turn the wormshaf t inside the power piston causing it to move right or left. The steering wheel movements will travel through the wormshaft and piston to turn the cross-shaft sector gear, and through the steering linkage to the front wheels. Complete steering control is retained by the driver if lack of power assist condition should ever arise.
9. REMOVING AND INSTALLING POWER
STEERING UNIT a. Removed
Disconnect battery ground cable. Disconnect
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL horn wire. Remove horn button and horn ring and disconnect horn wire. Remove steering wheel nut and pull steering wheel with Tool
C-3428.
Disconnect the direction signal wires at connectors. Remove the jacket tube support bracket at instrument panel. Loosen the two bolts attaching the jacket tube to steering housing, push the jacket tube upward to expose the steering tube coupling pin and remove pin.
Remove cotter key and nut at the drag link to steering arm ball joint.
Disconnect the pressure and return hoses at steering gear. Fasten the disconnected ends of hoses above oil level in reservoir. Cap ends of hoses and fittings on steering gear.
Remove steering arm nut and washer at steering gear shaft. Slide Tool C-3646 (Fig.
12) up on steering arm and place shoe of puller behind steering arm. Tighten tool center screw against gear shaft will pull steering arm from shaft. Remove the gear housing to frame bolts and remove steering gear at engine compartment.
b. Installation
Enter steering gear through engine compartment and install attaching bolts and spherical washers. Tighten bolts finger tight only. Align the steering tube coupling with the steering column tube and install coupling pin, insulator and teflon inserts.
Slide the jacket tube down in position over the steering gear housing and tighten clamp bolts. Install jacket tube clamp at instrument
STEERING GEAR
TOOL
Fig. 12—Removing Steering Gear Arm with Puller C-3646
58x231
STEERING—13
58x64
Fig. 13—Removing Coupling Pin panel. (Do not tighten.) Connect direction signal wires at connectors. Install steering wheel and steering wheel nut. Tighten nut to 40 footpounds torque. Install horn wire, stationary plate, bushings, horn ring and attaching screws.
Do not overtighten screws (horn ring must be free to flex.) Install steering wheel ornament.
NOTE: Check to make certain that cancelling dogs on steering wheel actuate the direction switch.
If distance between steering column jacket and steering wheel is more or less than % inch, adjust column jacket and tighten jacket clamp bolt.
Tighten the jacket to dash panel support bracket screws. Tighten the steering gear housing to frame attaching bolts to 50 footpounds torque. Install steering arm and tighten nut to 120 foot-pounds torque.
Connect the pressure and return hoses. Refill the reservoir and gear housing. Refer to
Paragraph 19, "Final Adjustments".
10. DISASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR
NOTE: Prior to disassembly, clean the gear assembly thoroughly in a suitable solvent and install unit in holding fixture C-3323 (Fig. 13).
When disassembling, each part should be placed in a suitable solvent, washed, then dried by dry compressed air. Careful handling of parts must be exercised to avoid the occurence of nicks and burrs. Crocus cloth may be used to
MyMopar.com
14—STEERING
VALVE ASSEMBLY
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
VALVE LEVER
HOLDING FIXTURE
JACKET TUBE SUPPORT
"O" RINGS 58x34
Fig. 14—Removing or Installing Valve Body Assembly remove small nicks or burrs provided it is used carefully. When used on the steering gear valve, use extreme care not to round off the sharp edge portions of the two lands located between the valve drilled holes. The sharp edge portion of these two lands is vitally important to this type of valve.
Remove and discard all "0" seal rings and seals, using new ones lubricated with petrolatum when reassembling. To disassemble the power steering unit for repair or overhaul refer to Figure 6 then proceed as follows:
Drain the steering gear through the pressure and return connections by turning the steering tube coupling from one extreme of travel to the other.
Remove coupling pin (Fig. 13), and remove coupling.
NOTE: Support the coupling when driving the pin out to avoid damaging the bearings.
Remove the valve body housing attaching
58x36
Fig. 16—Removing or Installing Gear Shaft Cover Nut with Tool C-3633 screws and remove valve body and the three
"0" rings, (Fig. 14). Remove valve lever by prying under the spherical head (Fig. 15). DO
NOT USE PLIERS.
CAUTION
Use care not to collapse slotted end of the valve lever as this will destroy the bearing tolerances of the spherical head.
Loosen gear shaft adjusting screw locknut.
Remove gear shaft cover nut with wrench Tool
C-3633, (Fig. 16).
Rotate worm shaft to full right turn, then return worm shaft and piston to center of travel to remove gear shaft and cover as an assembly (Fig. 17).
CAUTION
There will be a discharge of oil when shaft and cover are pulled from housing.
ADJUSTING SCREW
SHAFT COVER
STEERING GEAR SHAFT
Fig. 15—Removing Valve Lever
58x35
58x37
Fig. 17—Removing or Installing Gear Shaft and Cover Assembly
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—15
STEERING GEAR HOUSING
TOOL
JACKET TUBE
SUPPORT
SPANNER NUT
58x38
Fig. 18—Removing Steering Column Support Nut with Tool C-3634
SEAL
58x40
Fig. 20—Removing W o r m Shaft U p p e r O i l Seal with Tool C-3638
Remove the steering column support nut with
Tool C-3634 (Fig. 18), and remove tanged washer.
NOTE: Turn worm shaft to full right position to compress parts and back off as necessary to align holes in column support and worm shaft.
Enter a piece of drill rod or suitable drift through the holes in jacket support and worm shaft to keep the parts from turning and carefully remove the power train as a complete assembly (Fig. 19).
CAUTION
Oil will be expelled when the power train is being removed.
Remove steering gear housing from vise.
11. DISASSEMBLY OF POWER TRAIN
Place power train in a vise equipped with soft jaw protectors to avoid damaging the piston assembly.
TOOL i POWER TRAIN
CAUTION
Do not turn worm shaft more than one-half turn during disassembly.
Remove column jacket support assembly, reaction spring, reaction ring, and spacer, ferrule "0" ring center, and bearing spacer.
Hold the worm shaft from turning, then turn nut slightly to left to shear the staked portion of the nut and carefully pick out locking portion of the bearing adjusting nut out of the notch in the worm shaft.
CAUTION
Be sure staked portion is removed from slot of worm shaft to avoid damaging worm shaft threads.
Remove thrust bearing nut, upper thrust bearing race (thin), upper thrust bearing, center bearing race, lower thrust bearing, lower
AIR NOZZLE
/
a
JACKET TUBE SUPPORT , H 5 8 x 3 9 1
Fig. 19—Removing or Installing Power Train
^REACTION SEAL
?*JACKET TUBE SUPPORT
Fig. 21— Removing Reaction Seal from Jacket Support
MyMopar.com
16—STEERING
JACKET TUBE SUPPORT
OIL SEAL
TOOL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
" O " RINGS CYLINDER HEAD
SPANNER NUT
58x44
Fig. 22-lnstalling Worm Shaft Upper Oil Seal with Tool C-3650 thrust bearing race (thick), lower reaction ring and lower reaction spring.
Remove cylinder head assembly.
NOTE: The worm and piston assembly is furnished as a complete assembly only.
12. COLUMN JACKET SUPPORT ASSEMBLY a. Disassembly
Remove worm shaft upper oil seal with puller
Tool C-3638 (Fig. 20).
NOTE: Column jacket support and wormshaft upper bearing are serviced as an assembly.
Remove large "0" ring from groove in jacket support. Remove reaction seal from groove in face of jacket support by blowing air pressure into the ferrule chamber (Fig. 21). Inspect grooves for burrs. Make sure passage from
JACKET TUBE
SUPPORT
CYLINDER HEAD
OIL SEAL
" O " RING
FERRULE
58x46
Fig. 24—Removing Reaction Ring from Cylinder Head ferrule chamber to upper reaction chamber is unobstructed.
b. Reassembly
Install worm shaft upper oil seal with sealing lip toward bearing (Fig. 22). Use Tool C-3650 and drive seal until tool bottoms on casting to obtain proper compression on rubber seal.
Lubricate reaction seal and install in groove in face of column jacket support with flat side of seal out (Fig. 23).
13. CYLINDER HEAD a. Disassembly
Remove the two "0" rings in the two outer grooves in the cylinder head. Remove the lower
FERRULE
CYLINDER HEAD
OIL SEAL
REACTION RING
58x45
Fig. 23—Installing Reaction Seal into Jack Support
RETAINER / _ REACTION "O" RING 58
X
47
Fig. 25— Removing Cylinder Head Seal
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL reaction "0" ring in groove in face of cylinder head with air pressure into oil hole located in groove between the two "O" ring grooves (Fig.
24). Inspect the worm shaft seal in the cylinder head counterbore for possible damage, replace cylinder head seal if necessary (Fig. 25). Check oil passage in ferrule for obstruction. Check lands of cylinder head for burrs.
b. Reassembly
Lubricate the two large "0" rings and install in grooves on cylinder head. Install the lower reaction seal in groove in face of cylinder head.
The small "0" ring for the ferrule groove should be installed after worm shaft bearing preload has been established otherwise "O" ring will be damaged by the reaction springs.
14. STEERING VALVE ASSEMBLY (Fig. 20) a. Disassembly
Compress pressure control valve spring and remove spring retainer pin, spring and pressure control valve piston. Remove the two screws attaching the pressure control valve body to the steering valve and remove valve body. Carefully shake out the valve piston.
NOTE: If steering valve or valve housing is damaged, it will be necessary to replace the complete valve assembly. DO NOT remove the valve and plug unless inspection indicates a leak at the seal.
b. Reassembly
If steering valve was removed from valve housing, install the valve in the valve housing so that the valve lever hole is aligned with the steering gear valve lever opening in the bottom of the valve housing. Valve must fit smoothly in housing without sticking or binding. If valve end plug had been removed, install new seal and tighten plug to 50 foot-pounds torque.
Lubricate pressure control valve piston and slide it into the pressure control valve body
(nose end first) (Fig. 26). Install the pressure control valve spring on top of the valve piston.
Compress spring and install the spring retainer pin through both holes at top of pressure control valve body. Assemble pressure control valve body to main valve with the two attaching screws. Tighten screws to 10 foot-
CONTROL
VALVE
BODY
STEERING—17
SCREW "O" RINGS
"O" RINGS /S VALVE LEVER
/ / "O" RING
SPRING
PISTON eiTTiw
^ / G A S K E T /
FITTING y SPOOL VALVE
STEERING
VALVE BODY
S C R E W
GASKET
58x48 END PLUG
Fig. 26—Control Valve (Disassembled) pounds torque. Install new copper sealing gasket and fitting in threaded hole on top of valve body. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque.
15. GEAR SHAFT a. Disassembly
Remove gear shaft adjusting screw lock nut and unscrew cover from adjusting screw. Remove screw and washer from "T" slot in end of gear shaft. Remove small "0" ring from top of cover and large "0" ring from base of cover.
NOTE: The gear shaft cover and bearing are serviced only as an assembly.
b. Reassembly
Place adjusting screw washer over adjusting screw and slide both into the "T" slot of gear shaft. Screw cover onto the adjusting screw until gear shaft bottoms in cover. Lubricate a new small "0" ring and install it over the adjusting screw into position at top of gear shaft cover. Install adjusting screw lock nut on adjusting screw but do not tighten. Lubricate a new large "O" ring and "0" ring groove heavily with petrolatum. Install "0" ring in groove on lower face of gear cover.
16. STEERING GEAR HOUSING a. Disassembly
NOTE: Steering gear housing with inner and outer gear shaft needle bearings is serviced as an assembly.
Attach steering gear housing on holding fixture
Tool C-3323 and install holding fixture in a
MyMopar.com
IS—STEERING
58x49
Fig. 27—Removing Gear Shaft Oil Seal vise. Remove oil seal snap ring with pliers Tool
C-760. Remove seal back-up washer. Remove the gear shaft oil seal with adapter SP-3056 and Tool C-3350 as follows: Slide the threaded portion of adapter SP-3056 over end of gear shaft and install the threaded nut section of
Tool C-3350 on the shaft (Fig. 27). Maintain pressure on adapter SP-3056 with nut of Tool
C-3350 while turning adapter SP-3056, forcing it into seal, until it has bottomed in the seal. Apply the two half rings and retainer over both portions of tool. As hexagon nut is removed from the shaft the seal will be pulled from the housing.
NOTE: Inspect the steering housing gear shaft needle bearings for broken or rough needles.
b. Reassembly
Install gear shaft oil seal in gear housing (lip of seal toward needle bearing) using Adapter
STEERING
CROSS
SHAFT
ADJUSTING SCREW
LOCK NUT
"O" RING
ADJUSTING COVER N U L
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Tool SP-3052 and Tool C-3350 (Fig. 28). Place adapter against seal and the tool nut on the threaded end of gear shaft. Tighten tool nut until adapter shoulder contacts housing (Fig.
29). Install oil seal back-up washer, and snap ring.
CAUTION
Make sure snap ring is properly seated in groove.
17. ASSEMBLY OF POWER TRAIN
Refer to Figure 30 and proceed as follows:
Place piston assembly on work bench in a vertical position (worm shaft up). Slide cylinder head assembly (with ferrule up) on worm shaft and against piston flange.
NOTE: Enter cylinder and seal over work shaft seal ring, making sure gap on worm shaft ring is closed to avoid breaking the ring.
Lubricate and install in the following order. Lower thrust bearing race (thick), lower thrust bearing, lower reaction spring over ferrule, lower reaction ring (with flange up so that the ring protrudes through the reaction spring), center bearing race indexing control lever hole with hole in center bearing race
(Fig. 9). Install outer spacer, upper thrust bearing, upper thrust bearing race (thin) and a new worm shaft thrust bearing nut. Tighten nut as follows: Turn worm shaft counterclockwise one-half turn and hold worm shaft in this position while tightening nut to 10 foot-pounds torque.
LOCK RING
OIL SEAL
BEARINGS
SPACING WASHER
58x283
Fig. 28-Steering Gear Housing (Sectional View) Fig. 29-lnstalling Gear Shaft Oil Seal
58x53
MyMopar.com
58x54
BEARING WASHER
ADJUSTING
SEAL I "O" RING
COVER
VALVE
HOUSING BEARING (INNER)
RETAINER
WASHER
WORM AND PISTON
" O " RING
WORM SHAFT
SEAL
RETAINER
SLEEVE
*O
M
RINGS
SEAL
CYLINDER HEAD AND FERRULE
" O " RING
REACTION " O " RING
R A C E
BEARING
SPRING
REACTION RING
CENTER RACE
BEARING
RACE
SPACER ASSEMBLY '
REACTION RING
SPRING
REACTION RING
NUT
SEAL
" O " RING
SUPPORT
BEARING
SEAL
NUT
Fig. 30—Steering Gear (Disassembled View)
ADAPTER
PIN
CO f
MyMopar.com
20—STEERING
CENTER BEARING RACE
P
CORD
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SPACER.
ADJUSTING NUT.
UPPER RACE
CENTER RACE
FERRULE
REACTION RING
BEARING
CYLINDER HEAD
SPRING
"O" RINGS
"O" RING
PISTON
58x65
Fig. 31—Checking Center Bearing Race Preload
CAUTION
If worm shaft is turned more than one-half turn, the cylinder head seal will clear the oil ring on the worm shaft. Always check position of worm shaft oil ring before bottoming cylinder head against worm piston shoulder to avoid damaging oil ring.
Rotate the worm center bearing race several turns to position all parts, then loosen adjusting nut. Retighten the worm bearing adjusting nut to give a bearing torque of 8-16 ounces.
Check torque by placing several rounds of cord around the center bearing race. Make a loop in one end of cord and hook the loop of distributor breaker arm spring scale, Tool MTU-
36 in the cord loop (Fig. 31). Pulling on the cord will cause the bearing race to rotate.
WORM SHAFT
CENTER RACE
REACTION
58x55
Fig. 32-Locking Worm Shaft Bearing Adjusting Nut
58x56
Fig. 33—Aligning Center Bearing Spacer
If adjusting nut is tightened properly, reading on scale should be 8 to 16 ounces. Depress flange of adjusting nut into the depression in worm shaft to lock securely (Fig. 32).
CAUTION
Use a chisel with a large radius on the ends to avoid completely shearing the metal.
IMPORTANT
The torque of 8-16 inch ounces must remain after the adjusting nut is securely locked.
Install center bearing spacer over center bearing race to engage dowel pin with slot in center bearing race (Fig. 33).
NOTE: Make sure that valve lever hole in center bearing race and center spacer are aligned.
Place inner and outer reaction rings over center spacer and install upper reaction spring with cylinder head ferrule through hole in spring. Install a new "0" ring in ferrule groove. Place lubricant in small bore of column jacket support (for cylinder head ferrule).
Install the jacket support over the worm shaft carefully engaging the cylinder head ferrule and "0" ring making sure reaction rings enter groove in jacket support.
Align parts on power train so that valve lever hole in center bearing spacer is 90 degrees counter-clockwise from piston rack teeth and lock all parts to the worm shaft by entering a drill rod or suitable drift through jacket support and worm shaft holes.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
18. REASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR
With steering gear housing in holding fixture
Tool C-3323 in approximate car position; lubricate bore of housing with petrolatum and carefully install power train assembly (Fig.
19), with center bearing spacer valve lever hole in "UP" position to line up with control valve lever clearance hole in the steering gear housing.
NOTE: Place an .0015 inch feeler stock to cover the aligning notch in the steering gear housing to protect the "O" ring seals when installing the gear train.
CAUTION
Make sure cylinder head is bottomed on housing shoulder (Fig. 7 ) . Do not remove power train locking pin (Fig. 19) until all parts are positioned in steering gear housing.
Align valve lever hole in center bearing spacer exactly with clearance hole in housing with aligning Tool C-3649 (Fig. 34). Tool should not be removed until spanner nut is securely tightened.
Install column support spanner nut, and tighten to 150 foot-pounds torque with Tool
C-3634 (Fig. 18).
Set piston at center of travel and install gear shaft and cover assembly so that sector teeth index with piston rack teeth. Make sure "0" ring is positioned in face of cover, (Fig. 6).
TORQUE WRENCH
WRENCH (TOOL)
58x232
Fig. 34—Alignment of Bearing Spacer and Center
Bearing Race with Aligning Tool C-3649
STEERING—21
VAIVE LEVER
SPANNER NUT
Fig. 35— Installing Valve Lever
"O" RINGS
58x57
Install cover spanner nut and tighten to 100 foot-pounds torque with Tool C-3633 (Fig.
16). Install valve lever (double bearing end first) into center bearing spacer through hole in steering housing so that slots in the valve lever are parallel to worm shaft in order to engage the anti-rotation pin in center bearing race (Fig. 35).
Install valve body on housing making sure that the valve lever enters the hole in the piston (Fig. 14). Be sure "O" ring seals are in place. Tighten valve mounting screws to 30 inch pounds torque.
19. FINAL TEST, ADJUSTMENTS AND
SPECIFICATIONS
Remove oil reservoir cover and fill reservoir to level mark. Connect test hoses C-3211 and
C-3318 with proper adaptors to hydraulic pump on car with pressure gauge C-3309B installed between pump and steering gear to register pressures. Start engine and operate at idle to bring steering gear to normal operating temperature. Expel all air from the unit by turning steering wheel several times to the right and then to the left. Refill reservoir before proceeding with the following test and adjustments.
a. Turn the gear shaft adjusting screw outward through the gear shaft cover to assure no mesh adjustment preload for this phase of the test. See Paragraph 15, "Assembly of Gear
Shaft." Tighten steering valve body attaching screws to 7 foot-pounds torque. Apply oil pressure to complete unit and position steering valve by tapping lightly on one of the pressure control valve screws or on valve end plug to position valve, (up or down) on steering hous-
MyMopar.com
22—STEERING
ADJUSTING SCREW
COVER
NUT
58x66
Fig. 36—Adjusting Gear Shaft Adjusting icrew ing to give equal gear shaft torque (within 5 foot-pounds torque not to exceed 20 foot-pounds in either direction) when gear shaft is slowly turned. Perform this operation carefully to prevent a lockup in the steering gear. After valve body is located tighten attaching screws to 15 foot-pounds torque.
b. With the gear shaft on center, tighten the gear shaft adjusting screw until backlash just disappears. Tighten 1*4 turn from this position and while holding adjusting screw in this position tighten lock nut.
c. Turn off hydraulic power to unit. Operate unit manually for minimum of 180° from center in each direction, measured at worm shaft.
Turn on hydraulic power to unit. Operate unit through a minimum of one complete cycle
(complete rotational travel of worm shaft from one extreme of travel to the other extreme and then back). Operate unit through another cycle, this time holding unit at extreme travel in each direction while watching the oil pressure gauge. The gauge reading should be equal
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL in each direction. If not, it indicates excessive internal leakage in the unit.
CAUTION
Holding the worm shaft at either extreme position for more than a few seconds will abnormally increase the oil temperature and cause undue oil pump wear.
With oil temperature between 150° F. and
170° F., checked with thermometer in the reservoir, the oil pressure should be 850 to 950 psi. for satisfactory power steering operation.
d. With gear shaft on center plus or minus
2 degrees, readjust the gear shaft backlash.
This will require loosening the adjusting screw until backlash is evident. Then retighten adjusting screw until backlash just disappears.
Continue to tighten for % to % turn from this position and tighten lock nut to 50 foot-pounds torque to maintain this setting, (Fig. 36).
e. Starting from a point at least one full turn of the worm shaft either side of center, the torque at the gear shaft required to turn the unit through center at 2 rpm in each direction shall not exceed 20 foot-pounds or vary more than 5 foot-pounds from left to right.
Position steering valve to obtain equal torque and tighten valve body attaching screws to 15 foot-pounds torque to maintain this setting.
f. With the unit under power, but with no load, the torque required to rotate the worm shaft through an included angle of 180° (90° either side of center) shall be 5-9 inch-pounds.
Disconnect test equipment and mounting fixture. Place steering gear worm at center of travel and install worm connector. Install unit in car. See Paragraph 9(b).
SLEEVE TYPE
POWER STEERING PUMP
20. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Fig. 37) a. Removal
NOTE: Whenever the pump is drained or re- moved for servicing the pump must be filled up to the "full" jnark indicated on the filler neck of reservoir before and after the engine is started. Use Automatic Transmission Fluid
Type "A" oil.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FILLER CAP
GASKET
RESERVOIR
FLOW SPOOL
RETAINER
COVER
SCREW
END CAP
GASKET
DRIVEN BLOCK
BODY
GASKET
STEERING—23
H O U S I N G
DISCHARGE FITTING
COPPER GASKET
GASKET
SPRING
BALL SEAT
GASKET
BALL
BALL RETAINER
SPRING
FLOW SPOOL
" O " RINGS
SCREW -
LOCKWASHER-
SPACER-
PULLEY
RETAINER
S H A F T — i
SLEEVE
PLUNGER
57x585
DRIVE BLOCK
BEARING CAP " O " RING
BOLT
SEAL
RETAINER
BEARING-
Fig. 37—Power Steering Oil Pump (Disassembled View)
(Thompson Pump)
KEY
The oil level should never be allowed to fall below the baffle of the reservoir.
Remove hose clamp and hose from discharge outlets, (Fig. 38). Loosen bracket fan belt adjusting screw and remove fan belts. Remove pump.
CAUTION b. Disassembly
Do not disassemble the hydraulic pump in dirty surroundings or on a dirty work bench. Use clean paper on bench. After the pump has been disassembled, place the parts in a suitable cleaning solvent; clean and protect from dirt and grit. Drain oil from pump and reservoir.
Cap discharge and return line fittings with
FILLER MARK RESERVOIR
[OIL LEVEL M A R K t e ^ ^ B I ^ 5 7 x 5 6 0 1
Fig. 38-Sleeve Type Power Steering Pump Installed
57x561
Fig. 39—Removing or Installing Power Steering
Pump Reservoir
MyMopar.com
24—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
57x562
Fig. 40—Removing or Installing Inlet Cap Bolts protective closures to exclude dirt from pump.
Thoroughly clean exterior of pump. Mount pump in vise. Remove cap screw and reservoir.
(Fig. 39). Loosen four cap screws at the inlet end cap (Fig. 40). Remove flow valve spring retainer fitting.
CAUTION
Flow and plunger spring are under pressure.
Use care when removing cap and retainer to prevent spring and fitting from escaping due to spring force. Remove flow valve and spring.
Remove and disassemble both end caps from inlet cap body and pump housing (Figs. 40 and 4 1 ) . Plunger spring will tend to push the cylinder blocks out of body. Use care when disassembling.
Fig. 42—Removing or Installing Housing from Pump Body
TOOL
Fig. 43—Removing or Installing Snap Ring Bearing
Retainer (Tool C-3106)
57x563
Fig. 41—Removing or Installing Pump Body from Housing
57x566
Fig. 44—Removing or Installing Shaft and Bearing
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—25
The cylinder blocks will push out of body slightly due to pressure of plunger spring between blocks. Remove cylinder drive blocks and nine sleeves from pump body (Fig. 42), as well as cylinder plunger spring. Remove ball bearing retainer ring from housing, using snap ring pliers Tool C-3106 (Fig. 43). Remove shaft and bearing (Fig. 44).
21. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Wipe bearing and shaft assembly with clean, lint free cloths. Do not soak in cleaning solvent; the lubricants sealed into the ball bearing may become diluted by the solvent.
Inspect shaft for wear and check the ball bearing for roughness or noisy operation. If bearing must be replaced, remove shaft key, press bearing from shaft away from splined or serrated end of shaft. Examine retaining ring groove in housing, replace worn or distorted parts. If ball bearing is to be replaced, support bearing on inner bearing race and press shaft through bearing until retaining ring stops against inner race of bearing. The retaining ring must always be located between the bearing and splined or serrated end of pump shaft.
Check fit of sleeves in cylinder block bores.
Sleeves must slide freely. Examine mating surfaces of sleeves and bores. Heavy scoring, if present, can impair pumping efficiency; cylinder blocks showing such scoring should be replaced. Hairline marking seen on sleeves are normal. Sleeves bearing such marks need not be replaced.
Examine flow valve spool and valve liner.
Slight hair line scratches are permissible. Burrs from heavy gouges or scratches which may cause the flow spool to stick must be removed.
This may be done by polishing with a smooth stone.
CAUTION
Do not break the sharp edges of the spool or liner.
Insert flow valve in valve body. (Fig. 45).
By means of a pencil or other such rod which will not mar the internal diameter of valve liner, move flow spool back and forth to inspect. On each pass, rotate spool slightly. The spool must slide freely. If spool sticks or drags,
57x567
Fig. 45—Checking Flow Valve in Housing remove it from liner. Remove dirt, nicks, and burrs, using above caution and check by repeating above procedure.
Examine shaft seal in bearing cap. If worn or damaged, replace seal.
NOTE: The lips of seal must point toward the casting. Examine running surface of bearing cap and inlet end cap. If heavy scratches or gouging are present or if port edges are damaged, the part should be replaced.
Press seal in until the shoulder stops against the bearing cap casting. Care must be used to see that seal is properly aligned. This operation should be performed on an arbor press.
Check the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is located in flow valve spool. (Fig.
FLOW SPOOL
SPRING
BALL RETAINER
57x568
BALL
BALL SEAT
Fig. 46-Flow Valve Spool
MyMopar.com
26—STEERING
57x569
Fig. 47—Drive Block Assembling Fixture
46). The valve must not leak at any pressure below 750 psi. and must open completely at
900 psi. Evidence of leakage will be seen at small holes in the side of flow spool. If relief valve leaks, disassemble by removing valve seat for dirt or nicks. Clean all valve parts and reassemble, replacing valve seat if nicked or damaged. Check the pressure again. If the pressure still falls below the minimum requirement, disassemble the valve again and replace the pressure relief spring or place a %
2
* n ch washer between spring and ball retainer. To correct pressures exceeding the maximum requirement, remove valve seat and place a %
2 inch washer between valve seat and the flow spool body.
Examine the pump body for signs of unusual wear or damage. Small scratches or burrs can
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL be removed with fine emery paper. If body is scored or damaged, a new pump body should be used.
22. ASSEMBLY OF POWER STEERING PUMP
Clean parts thoroughly and assemble pump in a clean work place.
Press drive shaft and bearing sub-assembly into bearing cap. Check rotation of shaft to make certain shaft turns freely. Use a sleeve which bears on outer race of ball bearing, and press the sub-assembly in place.
CAUTION
Make certain that the shaft bearing and subassembly are properly aligned, otherwise the shaft may push sleeve bearing out of bearing cap or may scratch or mar the inside diameter of sleeve bearing.
Use an assembly fixture, Tool C-3602 as shown in Figure 47 and place driven cylinder block (without spline or serration) on assembly fixture. Lubricate (SAE 10W) and insert plunger spring, plunger, and seven sleeves in drive block, as shown in Figure 48. Place the pump body, square end down, over the cylinder drive block, and fixture locating pins; use a pointed probe to align the sleeves to a uniform spacing and install the two other remaining sleeves. Position the drive splined block with serration over the sleeves. Sighting thru the bores in the drive block for alignment, lower the cylinder block until it engages the two sleeves in the forward position. Again use
57x570
Fig. 48-Assembling Sleeves in Drive Cylinder
57x571
Fig. 49-lnstalling Drive Block
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL pointed probe slightly smaller in diameter than the sleeve bores, Figure 49., correct the alignment of sleeves in the 5 and 7 o'clock position at the same time guiding cylinder block downward. Continue this procedure to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions until all of the sleeves are aligned and engaged; the block may then be pushed in all the way.
CAUTION
Do not force the cylinder block forcibly in place; proper alignment of the block and sleeves will allow the block to be pushed easily into place without excessive pressure. Tighten body to housing.
Remove body and cylinder block assembly from fixture, using care to see that blocks are not forced out of body by plunger spring. Assemble a new end cap gasket oil pump body.
Install end cap on body, tighten cap screws finger tight.
Insert a new "0" ring in counterbore at the flow valve liner in body. Install a new bearing cap gasket, assemble the bearing cap to the body.
NOTE: It may be necessary to exert hand pressure on the bearing cap to get drive block down into body after bearing cap is seated.
Tighten five cap screws finger tight. Grip end of pump shaft in a vise and rotate pump.
The pump should rotate freely without binding.
After making sure pump rotates freely tighten
STEERING—27
cap screws uniformly to 25 foot-pounds torque.
Check pump again for rotation. Mount pump in a vise in a vertical position, gripping on the bearing hub. Install the flow valve spool with the %
6
land down. Place flow valve spring on top of flow spool. Replace "0" ring on flow spring retainer fitting. Compress flow spring with fitting, and screw fitting into place. Tighten to 20 foot-pounds torque.
Install and align a new reservoir "O" ring on bearing cap. Lubricate "0" ring for ease in assembling reservoir. Align reservoir so that the indentation on back will mate with angular boss on suction end cap.
NOTE: Reservoir alignment may be achieved by sighting thru the 9/32 inch hole in the back of the reservoir. Push the reservoir into place applying force around its outside diameter.
Replace the copper gasket between the head of the y± inch hex head cap screw and the back of reservoir. Tighten the *4 * n c n
cap screw to 15 foot-pounds torque.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to align or pull the reservoir into place on the angular boss with the % inch cap screw.
Install shaft key, and pulley. Tighten pulley attaching bolt to 20 foot-pounds torque. Refill pump with Automatic Transmission Fluid
Type "A" oil. Tighten fan belt as outlined in
Accessory Belt Drives Section IV.
SLIPPER TYPE
POWER STEERING PUMP
The slipper-type power steering oil pump is a positive displacement pump, bracket-mounted to the engine water pump housing, and beltdriven by the engine fan pulley.
Elimination of pulsation in oil flow is achieved by the cam surface of the pressed-in insert which evens out oil flow through the pump. Recirculation of oil from rotor outlet to rotor inlet results in a reduction of torque required to drive the pump and thus reduces the amount of engine horsepower necessary to drive the pump.
23. OPERATION
In operation, the slippers, shown in Figure 50, push the oil through the pump. Continuous slipper contact is assured by the spring loaded slippers against the eccentric inside diameter and by centrifugal force at higher speeds.
The amount of output flow from the pump
MyMopar.com
28—STEERING
RESERVOIR
SNAP
RING
SUPPER
ROTOR
PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE
PLUG
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FLOW CONTROL VALVE
PLUG AND SNAP RING
PASSAGE
PUMP OUTLET TO
GEAR POWER STEERING
OIL INLET
FLOW CONTROL
VALVE
FLOW CONTROL
PLUG 58x217
Fig. 50—Slipper Type Power Steering Pump is limited by the flow control valve. As oil flows from the rotor outlet, it passes through orifices in the flow control valve on its way to the pump outlet and the power steering gear.
Flow through the orifice causes a pressure differential to exist across the valve from the closed end to the open end. The higher pressure oil outside the valve is exposed to the left end of the valve. The difference in pressure forces the flow control valve to the right a sufficient amount to cause the center valve land to expose the inlet port allowing recirculation of oil from the rotor outlet, back to the rotor inlet. This action takes place when oil flow reaches approximately two gallons per minute.
Maximum oil pressure in the unit is limited to 850-950 psi. by the pressure relief valve.
When pressure in the unit reaches this amount, it overcomes the force of the spring on the relief valve, forcing the valve plunger off its seat and allowing the oil to flow through the opening around the plunger. Openings in the pressure relief valve body return the oil to the reservoir.
a. Removed
Relieve tension and remove fan belt. Place a suitable container under the pump. Disconnect the pressure and return hoses> cap the hoses and keep the ends high to prevent loss of fluid in the power steering unit.
•O" RING
58x280
Fig. 51—Removing Pump Pulley
GASKET
RELIEF VALVE
ASSEMBLY
Fig. 52—Removing Relief Valve
58x224
Remove the screws attaching the pump brackets to the water pump housing.
Clean all exterior surfaces of the pump before starting disassembly.
b. Di lbly
Remove filler cap and dipstick assembly. Drain reservoir and pump. Remove the front and rear brackets from the pump reservoir and pump. Carefully pry the reservoir from the pump. Reinstall the front bracket to the pump to be used as a holding fixture.
CAUTION
Use spacer washers between pump body and bracket to make sure bolts do not bottom in pump housing.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PUMP OUTLET
STEERING—29
SNAP
RING
58x225
Fig. 53—Removing Flow Control Valve Plug Snap Ring
Install pulley removing Tool C-3615 (Fig.
51) by engaging the two half collars under the pulley hub flange (tapered ends toward pulley) and the flat ends of the collars engaging the collar locking the retainer of the puller screw. Install the collar sleeve to hold the collars and screw in position. While holding locknut, turn center screw to remove pulley.
NOTE: Make sure the two half collars fully engage the pulley hub and the collar locking retainer before applying pressure to the end of the pump shaft.
Remove the relief valve assembly and gasket
(Fig. 52).
NOTE: Relief valve is serviced only as an assembly.
Fig. 55—Removing Pump Oil Seal
If there was evidence of a malfunction in the flow control valve, remove the flow control valve plug snap ring with snap ring pliers C-
3229 (Fig. 53). Remove the flow control valve plug by threading a tap Tool C-3655 into the plug, as shown in Figure 54. With the tap securely threaded in plug, install tool spacer and nut over tap. Tightening nut while holding tap from turning will force the plug from the housing bore.
CAUTION
The flow control valve is spring-loaded and care should be used when removing the plug.
Thread the puller portion of Tool C-3642 into oil seal far enough to engage the metal portion
TOOL
TOOL
SNAP RING
FLOW
CONTROL
VALVE
PLUG
58x281
Fig. 54—Removing Flow Control Valve Plug with Tool C-3655
58x282
Fig. 56—Installing Flow Control Valve Plug
MyMopar.com
30—STEERING
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
PULLEY
PRESS
PUMP SHAFT PUMP
Fig. 57—Installing Pump Oil Seal of the seal, (Fig. 55). Turning puller center screw while holding puller body will force the seal from the pump insert.
NOTE: Further disassembly of the pump is not recommended as component parts of the pump other than the reservoir, "O" ring and relief valve are not serviced separately.
24. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean all parts thoroughly in a clean solvent, discard body to reservoir "0" ring and pump shaft oil seal. Check flow control valve and bore for burrs and scratches.
NOTE: Valve must operate freely in bore.
Small scratches can be carefully removed with crocus cloth. Do not round off the square edges as they are vitally important to this type of valve.
The housing bore for the flow control valve should not be honed or machined. If the bore is scratched or worn, the pump should be replaced.
25. ASSEMBLY
Install flow control valve spring, valve and new valve plug and snap ring. Drive valve plug with Tool C-3233 (Fig. 56) far enough into bore to install snap ring, then drive snap ring and plug with Tool C-3233 until snap ring seats
58x229
Fig. 58—Installing Pump Pulley in its groove in housing bore. Install relief valve and gasket assembly.
Install oil seal with Tool C-3640. Lip of seal must face toward pump body and top of seal must be flush with front insert (Fig. 57).
Support pump body in holding fixture Tool
C-3643 (Fig. 58) so that the pressure will be absorbed by the lower end of the pump shaft.
Install pulley with a heavy duty arbor press.
Pulley hub must be flush with end of shaft.
CAUTION
Pump must be supported in a manner in which all pressing force will be applied to the shaft only, otherwise pump body and rotor will be damaged.
Lubricate large "0" ring and install in outer groove in pump body. Install reservoir gasket, reservoir and reservoir attaching screws.
Tighten screws to 10 foot-pounds torque. Install pump brackets.
26. INSTALLATION
Position pump on engine and install and tighten attaching bolts securely. Connect the pressure and return hoses. Tighten the drive belt as outlined under "Accessory Belt Drives", Section IV.
Fill reservoir to the full mark with Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A".
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
STEERING—31
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
(MANUAL)
27. EXCESSIVE PLAY OR LOOSENESS IN THE
STEERING WHEEL a. Steering gear adjusted too loosely or badly worn.
b. Steering linkage loose or worn.
c. Front Wheel bearings improperly adjusted.
d. Steering gear arm loose on steering gear shaft. Check damage to roller shaft and steering gear arm.
e. Steering gear housing attaching bolts loose.
f. Steering arms loose on anchor bolts.
28. HARD STEERING a. Low or uneven tire pressure.
b. Insufficient lubricant in the steering gear housing.
c. Steering gear adjusted too tightly.
d. Front wheels out of line.
e. Steering column out of line.
CONSTANT CONTROL FULL TIME
POWER STEERING
29. HARD STEERING a. Tires not properly inflated.
b. Low oil level (usually accompanied by pump noise).
c. Loose pump belt.
d. Oil on pump belts.
e. Steering linkage needs lubrication.
f. Power steering pump output low.
g. Steering gear malfunction.
1) Cross shaft adjustment too tight.
2) Pressure control valve stuck in closed position.
3) External oil leakage at the following points :
Lower sector shaft oil seal. Sector shaft adjusting screw seal. Sector shaft cover " 0 " ring seal. Valve housing-to-gear housing "O" rings.
4) Defective or damaged valve lever.
If pressure gauge will build up to 850 to 950 psi., check the following points :
Defective or damaged gear shaft bearings.
Dirt or chips in steering gear.
Damaged column support worm shaft bearings.
Damaged thrust bearings or excessive preload adjustment.
Rough, hard to turn worm and piston assembly.
5) Excessive internal leakage. If pressure gauge will not build up to 850 to 950 psi., check the following points:
Cylinder head "O" rings.
Cylinder head reaction seal.
Cylinder head worm shaft oil seal assembly.
Column support-to-ferrule " 0 " ring seal.
Column support reaction seal.
Cylinder head "O
M
rings.
30. POOR RECOVERY FROM TURNS a. Tires not properly inflated.
b. Steering linkage binding.
c. Improper wheel alignment.
MyMopar.com
32—STEERING
d. Damaged or defective steering tube bearing.
e. Steering wheel column jacket and steering unit not properly aligned.
f. Steering gear malfunctions.
1) Improper cross shaft mesh adjustment.
2) Pressure control valve piston stuck in open position.
3) If car is self-steering or leads to either side, see "Self-Steering" or "Leads to
Either Side."
4) Column support spanner nut loose.
5) Defective or damaged valve lever.
6) Improper worm thrust bearing adjustment.
7) Burrs or nicks in reaction ring grooves in cylinder head or column support.
8) Defective or damaged cylinder head worm shaft seal ring.
9) Dirt or chips in steering gear unit.
10) Rough or catchy worm and piston assembly.
31. SELF-STEERING OR LEADS
TO EITHER SIDE a. Tires not properly inflated.
b. Improper wheel alignment.
c. Steering wheel off center when car is traveling straight ahead.
d. Valve body out of adjustment.
Steering to the left—Move steering valve housing down on steering housing.
Steering to the right—Move steering valve housing up on steering housing.
e. Valve lever damaged.
f. Column support spanner nut loose.
32. TEMPORARY INCREASE IN EFFORT WHEN
TURNING STEERING WHEEL TO RIGHT
OR LEFT a. Low oil level.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Loose pump belt.
c. Oil on pump belts.
d. Binding steering linkage.
e. Engine idle to slow.
f. Defective power steering pump.
g. Air in system. (Work steering wheel from right to left until air is expelled).
h. Gear Malfunction.
1) External leakage. See Paragraph
29, (g).
2) Improper cross shaft adjustment.
3) Excessive internal leakage. See Paragraph 29, (5).
33. EXCESSIVE STEERING WHEEL FREE-PLAY a. Improper cross shaft adjustment.
b. Column support spanner nut loose.
c. Improper worm thrust bearing adjustment.
34. LACE OF ASSISTANCE—One Direction
Oil leaking past worm shaft cast iron oil seal ring or ferrule "0" ring.
Both Directions a. Broken "D" ring on worm piston.
b. Piston end plug loose.
c. Reaction seal missing.
d. Pump belt slipping.
e. Pump output low.
35. NOISES a. Buzzing noise in neutral, stop when steering wheel is turned—sticking pressure control valve.
b. Noisy power pump.
c. Damaged hydraulic lines.
d. Pressure control valve sticking.
e. Improper sector shaft mesh adjustment.
f. Air in system.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—33
SLEEVE TYPE POWER STEERING PUMP
36. PUMP NOT PRIMING a. Weak or broken plunger spring (compressed to a height of
6
%
4
inch, the spring should exert a force of 29.7 to 36.3 pounds when compressed).
b. Flow valve stuck in open position. Check for dirt or burrs on flow spool or in valve liner.
37. REDUCED OR NO FLOW a. Flow valve stuck in open position—check for dirt or burrs on flow spool or in valve liner.
b. Relief valve leaking—check for dirt or nicks on relief valve seat.
c. Weak or broken relief valve spring—when compressed to a height of
3
%
4
inch, the spring should exert a force of 12.5 to 14 pounds when compressed.
d. Flow valve spring retainer loose, torque to mximum specifications.
e. Cap screws on either end of pump loose— torque to indicated specifications.
f. Weak or broken flow valve spring—when compressed to a height of \y% inch, the spring should exert a force of 11.25 to 13.75 pounds when compressed.
38. LOW SHUT-OFF OR RELIEF PRESSURE a. Weak or broken relief valve spring—replace.
b. Leak in relief valve—check for dirt or nicks on relief valve seat.
c. Flow valve stuck in open position—check for dirt or burrs on flow spool or in flow valve liner.
d. Cap screws on either end of pump loose
—torque to indicated specifictions.
39. PUMP NOISE a. Check oil level in reservoir—oil level should be up to mark on filler neck when pump is at 175° F.
b. Air in steering system—check all connections to make certain that they are tight.
c. Discharge and return line hoses—the hoses must not touch any part of the body or frame except where they are attached to the pump or steering column.
d. Loose pulley.
e. Water in oil.
40. HARD OR JERKY STEERING TOWARD END
OF FULL LEFT OR RIGHT TURN
Loose drive belt—tighten drive belts to specified torque.
41. OIL LEVEL IN THE RESERVOIR
The following precautions should be observed for best performance of the sleeve-type power steering pump.
The oil level in reservoir will vary according to the operating temperature. The normal operating temperature of the pump is approximately 175° F. At this temperature, the oil should be up to the oil level mark on the filler neck. At 70° F. the oil will be approximately inches from top of the filler neck.
NOTE: The oil level should never be allowed to fall below the baffle in the reservoir.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A" is used in the steering system; however, S.A.E.
10W may be used to bring the oil level to the proper place if the level is low. If the steering system is drained, it should be filled with transmission fluid. The pump must be full before the engine is started. After starting the engine, add sufficient oil to make-up for the pump consumption to bring oil up to operating level.
42. BELT TENSION
The belt tension may be checked by applying torque wrench to the bolt which holds the pulley in place. Turning in the direction which will tighten the bolt, the torque should be 20 footpounds.
MyMopar.com
34—STEERING
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SLIPPER TYPE POWER STEERING PUMP
43. LEAKS a. Pressure and return hose connections and fittings.
b. Reservoir to-pump-body "0" ring or mounting screws.
c. Drive shaft oil seal.
44. NOISE a. Improper oil level.
b. Reservoir air vent plugged.
c. Air in system.
d. Dirt in pump.
e. Pump bushings, shaft, slippers, rotor worn, or damaged.
45. LOW OIL PUMP PRESSURE a. Pump drive belt or pulley loose.
b. Low oil level in reservoir.
c. Pressure relief valve spring weak, or valve stuck in open position.
d. Flow control valve stuck or a broken flow control valve spring.
e. Worn pump rotor, slippers or broken and distorted springs.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—1
Section XI
TRANSMISSION
TORQUEFLITE
CONTENTS
Page
Description of Transmission 7
Gearshift Control Unit 7
Operating Instructions 9
Shift Pattern Summary Chart 10
Power Flow in the Transmission 11
Band-Clutch Application Chart 13
Hydraulic Control System 13
Pressure Supply System 21
Clutches and Band Servos 21
Pressure Regulating Valves 22
Flow Control Valves 24
Operational Summary 27
Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests 28
Road Testing Transmission 28
Trouble Diagnosis Chart 29
Lubrication 32
Oil Leaks 32
Gearshift Control Cable Adjustment 32
Neutral Starting Switch 33
Band Adjustments 33
Throttle Linkage Adjustments 34
Hydraulic Control Pressure Checks and Adjustments 35
Governor Pressure Chart 36
Servicing the Gearshaft Control Unit 36
Replacing Illuminating Bulb 37
Replacing Back Up Light Switch 38
Removal and Installation of Control Cable 38
Servicing Component Parts with Transmission in Vehicle 39
Transmission Regulator Valve Assembly 39
Torque Converter Control Valve Assembly 39
Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly 40
Kickdown Piston 41
Accumulator Piston 41
Governor 43
Rear Oil Pump 44
Reconditioning of Transmission—Removal 46
Disassembly, Inspection and Assembly of Component Parts 55
Servos, Bands and Miscellaneous Inspection 66
Assembly of Units in Transmission Case 68
Power Train Units Installation 71
Reconditioning of Valve Body and Transfer Assemblies 74
Torque Converter and Housing 81
Speedometer Pinion Usage Chart 87
MyMopar.com
2—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section XI
TRANSMISSION
TORQUEFLITE
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
MODELS LG-1, LG-2, LC-3, LY-1
Type Automatic Three Speed with Torque Converter
Oil Capacity of Transmission and Torque Converter.... Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual
Lubrication Pump (Rotor Type)
Number of Rear Clutch Plates —Discs (each) 5*
Number of Front Clutch Plates 3
Number of Front Clutch Discs 4
GEAR RATIOS
1-Low 2.45 to 1
2-Second 1.45 to 1
D-Drive 1.00 to 1
R-Reverse 2.20 to 1
N-Neutral
FRONT-REAR PUMPS
Type Gear (Rotary)
End Clearance (Front Pump) .001 to .0025 inch
End Clearance (Rear Pump) .001 to .0025 inch
THRUST WASHERS
Input Shaft .115 to .117 inch (Natural)
.097 to .099 inch (Black)
.078 to .080 inch (Red)
.059 to .061 inch (Orange)
Front Clutch and Sun Gear .062 to .064 inch
Output Shaft .062 to .064 inch
SNAP RINGS
Kickdown Annulus Gear .060 to .062 inch
.064 to .066 inch
Rear Clutch .060 to .062 inch
Low-Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier .060 to .062 inch
.064 to .066 inch
.068 to .070 inch
Front Clutch. .060 to .062 inch
*4 on LC-1, LC-2
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—3
TORQUE CONVERTER
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Converter
Model
Application Ratio
A-522
A-521-2*
LY-1
LC-3
LC-3S
LC-1
LC-2
2.3
2.2
Size
(In.)
12H n%
Cooling
Water-Heat
Exchanger
Stud
Size
(In.)
Stud Nut
Size
(In.)
36-20
(AM. NAT.
THD.)
NUT END
(AM. NAT.
THD.)
STUD END
%-20 UNF
{% across flats)
•Supersedes A-363
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
Part Name
Foot-Pounds
Torque
Accumulator Cover Screws 14 — 16
Band Lever Shaft Plug 3 0 - 3 5
Crossmember to Frame Bolts 50 — 55
Engine Rear Support Insulator Nuts 30—35
Extension to Transmission Case Screws 25 — 30
Filler Tube Nut 3 5 - 4 0
Front Oil Pump Housing to Transmission Case Screws 14 — 16
Oil Strainer Elbow Screws 14-16
Front Universal Joint Nut 33-37
Governor Body to Governor Support Screws 6—8
Governor Locating Screw 5 — 7
Governor Oil Pressure Take-Off Plug 10-12
Intermediate Support Locating Screws 25 — 30
Kickdown Band Adiusting Screw Nut 30 — 35
Low-Reverse Band Adjusting Screw Nut 35—40
Manual Valve Control Cable Housing Screws 14 — 16
Neutral Starter Switch 15 — 20
Oil Pan Screws 12-17
Oil Pressure Line Take-Off , 10-12
Output Shaft Support to Transmission Case Screw 25 — 30
Transmission Case to Reaction Shaft Screws 30—35
MyMopar.com
4—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TIGHTENING REFERENCE (Cont'd)
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
Foot-Pounds
Part Name Torque
Propeller Shaft Flange Nut 175
Rear Oil Pump Housing to Support Screws 10—12
Speedometer Pinion Sleeve Assembly 40—45
Transfer Plate to Transmission Case Screw 14 — 16
Torque Converter Control Valve Retainer 35—40
Torque Converter Drain Plug 10—12
Torque Converter Housing to Adaptor Screws 25 — 30
Torque Converter Oil Cooler Line Fitting 10—12
Transmission Case to Torque Converter Housing Screws 45 — 50
Transmission Regulator Valve Retainer 45 — 50
Valve Bodies to Transfer Valve Retainer 50-60*
*(Inch Pounds)
TORQUE CONVERTER
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Thread Size
Item (Inches)
Block to Threaded Aluminum Plate Bolt % - 1 6
Block to Threaded Aluminum Plate Bolt % - 1 4
Converter Housing and Plate to Threaded Block Bolt % —16
Converter Housing and Plate to Threaded Block Bolt %—14
Converter Housing to Aluminum Plate Bolt % —16
Plate to Threaded Block Bolt % - 1 6
Plate to Threaded Converter Housing Bolt 3^ —16
Crankshaft Stud Nut % - 2 0
Converter Drain Plug y% N.P.T.
Housing Dust Cover Bolt ^ — 18
Housing Dust Cover Bolt J^ — 20
Drive Flange Stud % - 1 4
Foot-Pounds
Torque
30
30
30
55
10
30
45
30
50
15
10
35
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—5
SPECIAL TOOLS
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
C-452 Puller
O484 Pliers
C-589 , Wrench
C-748 Puller
C-760 Pliers
C-811 Wrench
C-3203A Jack (includes Adaptor C-3502)
C-3204 Driver
C-3205 Driver
C-3275 Driver
C-3276 Pilots
C-3278 Driver
C-3280 Stand
C-3281 Wrench
C-3283 Pilots
C-3288 Pilots
C-3292 Gauge
C-3293 Gauge
C-3301 Pliers
C-3335 Straight edge
C-3339 Set-Dial Indicator
C-3380 Wrench (Torque)
C-3461 Fixture
C-3487 Support
C-3527 Gauge—Overrunning Clutch Assembly
C-3528 Stand-(pair) Valve Body Holding
C-3529 Fixture—Compressing Servo Reverse and Kickdown Spring
(supersedes C-3289 which can be converted to C-3529)
C-3531 Tool-Remover and Installer Reaction Shaft (supersedes C-3297)
(If C-3297 is available, use C-3535 Adapters to convert to C-3531)
C-3533 Compressor
DD-1150 Tachometer
SPECIAL TOOLS
TORQUE CONVERTER
Tool Number Description
C-589 W r e n c h - ^ " hex nut
C-763 Switch—remote control
C-771 Wrench-flywheel turning*
C-3339 Set-Dial Indicator
C-3487 Fixture—engine support
C-3613 Attachment-dial indicator
May be used in lieu of Switch C-763.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE CRANKSHAFT
TORQUE CONVERTER OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
TORQUE CONVERTER IMPELLER
FRONT OIL PUMP H O U S I N G DUST SEAL
INPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
REGULATOR VALVE BODY
FRONT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
FRONT CLUTCH PISTON LEVER
FRONT CLUTCH PISTON
RtAR CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
KICKDOWN BAND
INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
O V E R R U N N I N G CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
LOW-REVERSE BAND
LOW-REVERSE BAND DRUM
REVERSE ANNULUS GEAR
TRANSMISSION CASE
KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR
' OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT
REAR OIL PUMP
EXTENSION
GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY
SPEEDOMETER P I N I O N
OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE H O U S I N G
REAR CLUTCH PISTON
REAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
FRONT CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT
FRONT OIL PUMP
TORQUE CONVERTER STATOR
TORQUE CONVERTER TURBINE
OIL STRAINER
REVERSE S U N GEAR
KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY
LOW-REVERSE PLANET P I N I O N CARRIER ASSEMBLY
VALVE BODIES A N D TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
H A N D BRAKE ASSEMBLY
56x707B
Fig. 1—Typical TorqueFlite Transmission a n d Torque C o n v e r t e r -
Air C o o l e d Converter Shown (Sectional V i e w )
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TORQUE-ELITE TRANSMISSION—7
Section XI
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
1. DESCRIPTION OF TRANSMISSION
The transmission (Fig. 1) combines a torque converter and an automatic three-speed planetary gear box. The torque converter extends torque mutiplication over a wide range of engine speeds. The transmission consists of two multiple disc clutches, an overrunning clutch, two bands, and two planetary gear sets to provide three forward ratios and a reverse ratio.
With the front or forward clutch engaged and low gear reaction, transferred through the transmission overrunning clutch assembly, a low ratio of 2.45 to 1 is obtained. Engagement of the kickdown or second speed band will shift the transmission to second speed ratio (1.45 to
1). Disengagement of the kickdown band and engagement of the rear or direct clutch locks the gear set so that a direct drive ratio of 1 to
1 is obtained. Since the overrunning clutch can transmit torque only on the drive side, it is necessary to apply the low and reverse band when using low for engine braking. Reverse ratio (2.20 to 1) is obtained by application of the rear clutch and rear band. In the drive range, the transmission shifts through all three gear ratios automatically. Shift points are determined by throttle opening and car speed. If additional acceleration is desired while in drive range, the transmission will downshift (depending on vehicle speed) to second gear or breakaway automatically when the accelerator pedal is completely depressed.
The intermediate or second position range is used to operate the transmission in the first two gears only. This range is suitable for heavy city traffic where the driver may desire part throttle second gear operation for more precise speed control. It may also be used on long down grades where additional engine braking is needed. A low or first position range is also available to keep the transmission in first gear only. This position provides added handling ease in mountain driving and exceptional pulling qualities in sand and snow.
2. GEARSHIFT CONTROL UNIT
The transmission is operated by a gearshift control unit consisting of five push buttons, identified by R (reverse), N (neutral), D
(drive), 2 (second) and 1 (low). Refer to
Figure 2.
The control unit is located on the instrument
Top View)
Fig. 2—Arrangement of Push Buttons
(Bottom View—Imperial Models)
MyMopar.com
8—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION panel to the left of the steering column. Range selection is made by pushing the proper button.
Should the R (reverse) button be pushed in, above approximately 15 M.P.H., it will move the manual control lever to the neutral position and when car speed drops below 15 M.P.H. it will again be necessary to reposition the R (reverse) push button.
Mechanical connection between the gearshift control housing and the transmission manual control valve is obtained through the use of a single push-pull cable, as shown in Figure 3.
One end of the wire cable is secured to the cable actuator in the gearshift control housing, while the other end enters the adapter housing on the transmission case to engage the manual control valve lever assembly.
Operation
When a button is pushed in, the slide contacts the cable actuator, causing it to pivot. Movement of the cable actuator about its axis moves the attached wire cable.
When the button nears its limit of travel, a
LOCK
SPRINGS
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL lock spring on the push button slide engages the actuator shaft. This action allows the lock spring to hold the button in the engaged position. (Refer to Fig. 3).
When the operator pushes another button, to select a different range, the top or bottom portion (depending on which button was pushed) of the slide contacts the actuator, thereby releasing the first button from the restraint of the lock spring. The first button is then free to return (under spring force) to its original position.
A back-up light switch (when so equipped) is incorporated in the gearshift control housing and is operated by the R (reverse) push button slide. A motor starting switch is also incorporated into the gearshift control housing. (Refer to Fig. 3). The car is started by turning the ignition switch to "ON" and pressing the
N (neutral) push button beyond the neutral position to engage the motor starting switch.
Should the car stall, it is restarted by fully depressing the N (neutral) push button.
A vacuum switch, on the engine, prevents
UNLATCHED POSITION
NEUTRAL OPERATING AND
ENGINE STARTING SLIDE
LATCHED POSITION
CONTROL CABLE
ACTUATOR
STARTING MOTOR
SWITCH
TO
TRANSMISSION
PUSH
BUTTONS
57x174
Fig. 3—Gearshift Control Unit (Operational Sketch)
CONTROL
CABLE
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL the starter from being operated should the N
(neutral) push button be pushed in while the engine is running.
The starting motor is also wired so that the engine cannot be started unless the neutral starting switch (at the transmission) is closed.
Engaging the N (neutral) button closes the starting motor circuit at the neutral starting switch (Fig. 22). The purpose of the neutral starting switch (on the transmission) is to prevent starting the engine while the transmission manual valve is in any position other than neutral, as a result of improper control cable adjustment.
3. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS a. Starting the Engine
(1) As a safety precaution, apply hand or foot brake.
(2) Turn igintion key to "ON" position. Depress accelerator slightly and push in the N
(neutral) push button to limit of its travel.
(3) When engine starts, release pressure on
N (neutral) push button.
(4) If engine fails to start, release pressure on N (neutral) push button momentarily before attempting to start engine again.
b. Push Starting
If the engine fails to start in the normal manner, it may be started by pushing. Towing the car to start is not recommended due to the sudden surge of power when the engine starts.
Turn the ignition switch on, then push the
1 (low) button in and depress the accelerator pedal slightly. After the vehicle has been pushed to a speed of 15 mph. (approximately), the transmission will drive the engine.
c. How to Drive the Car
NOTE: All speeds referred to in the following paragraphs are to be considered approximate because of variations in production tolerances.
(1) When starting in extremely cold weather, allow the engine and transmission to warm up while in N (neutral) position. If the engine is cold (engine on fast idle), apply the foot brake lightly to prevent a tendency of vehicle to creep when making a push button selection.
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—9
(2) D (drive). Almost all driving is done in the D (drive) position. The transmission in this push button position selects the proper ratio automatically for road, speed, and driving conditions.
A downshift to the breakaway position always occurs below 8 M.P.H. at closed throttle.
If road conditions warrant, such as pulling on a steep hill under heavy load, the 3-2 downshift may occur under part throttle, otherwise the transmission normally downshifts from 3 to 1 except during a forced kickdown at speeds below 70 M.P.H., or the condition to be covered in the following paragraphs:
The driver may select a ratio which he feels more applicable to the particular condition such as in heavy traffic, icy roads, or descending a steep hill by using either the 1 or the 2 push buttons.
(3) 2 (second). If the 2 button is pushed in, the transmission will start in breakaway or low ratio and upshift to 2nd gear normally. There will be no further upshift unless the car is driven to speeds above 75 M.P.H. at which time the transmission will upshift to direct. This protects against unnecessary high engine R.P.
M. When the car speed drops below 70 M.P.H.
the transmission again downshifts to second.
If the car is being driven above 70 M.P.H.
in D (drive) and the 2 button is pushed in, the transmission will not downshift until car speed is below 70 M.P.H.
When car speed is reduced to 8 M.P.H. (with the 2 button in) the transmission downshifts to breakaway. Also, a kickdown may be made to breakaway when car speed is below 30 M.P.H.
(4) 1 (low). If the 1 button is pushed in, the transmission remains in "Low" gear regardless of car speed.
If the 1 button is pushed in at car speeds above 30 M.P.H. (but below 70 M.P.H.) the transmission will downshift to second gear until car speed decreases below 30 M.P.H., at which time the transmission downshifts to low gear and stays there regardless of car speeds.
If the 1 button is pushed in at car speeds above 75 M.P.H. either in D (drive) or 2, the transmission stays in drive or high gear until car speed decreases below 70 M.P.H., when it downshifts to second gear. When speed de-
MyMopar.com
10—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FRONT CLUTCH APPLIED OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH (LOCKS WHILE DRIVING-
FREE WHILE COASTING)
DRIVE POSITION-BREAKAWAY 56x689
Fig. 4—Power Flow in D (Drive) Position—Breakaway creases further to below 8 M.P.H., the transmission shifts to low and stays in low regardless of car speed.
(5) Kickdown (forced downshift). Below those speeds for the 3-2 and 3-1 kickdown limits shown in Shift Pattern Summary Chart (after the transmission has upshifted into direct or second gear), the transmission will automatically downshift to the next lowest gear when the accelerator is completely depressed; thereby giving maximum acceleration for passing or climbing steep grades. The transmission will automatically upshift to second if the accelerator is released or speeds shown in Shift Pattern
Summary Chart (wide open throttle 1-2 upshift) are reached. In D (drive) range from second gear, the transmission will automatically upshift into direct if the accelerator is partially released or if speeds as shown in Shift
Pattern Summary Chart (wide open throttle
2-3 upshift) are reached. If the vehicle is accelerated with the 2 (second) button engaged to wide open throttle upshift speed, an upshift to direct will occur thus eliminating over-speeding the engine in second gear.
(6) R (reverse). Stop the vehicle and with foot brake lightly applied, push the R (reverse) button in.
d. Mountain Driving
When driving in the mountains with either heavy loads or when pulling trailers, the 2
(second) or 1 (low) position should be selected on upgrades which require heavy throttle for
SHIFT PATTERN SUMMARY CHART
CONDITION
Closed Throttle 1-2 Upshift
Closed Throttle 2-3 Upshift
Wide Open Throttle 1-2 Upshift
Wide Open Throttle 2-3 Upshift
3-2 Kickdown Limit.
3-1 Kickdown Limit
Closed Throttle Downshift
LC-1
8-12
12-16
29-45
63-76
55-69
26-35
7-11
LC-2
8-12
12-16
30-46
64-78
56-70
27-36
7-11
LC-3
9-13
14-18
32-50
71-87
62-78
29-39
8-12
LY-1
8-13
13-17
31-48
66-81
58-73
27-36
7-11
LY-1
9-14
14-18
33-51
72-88
63-79
30-39
8-13
LY-1
8-11
11-15
27-42
59-71
51-64
25-32
6-10
NOTE: All shift speeds may vary somewhat due to production tolerances and rear axle ratio* which is not too important, however, the quality of the shifts is very important.
All shifts should be smooth, responsive, and with no noticeable engine runaway.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
1/2 half mile or more. Lower ratios reduces the possibility of overheating the transmission under these conditions. (1) low position is for service operation or to obtain better control.
e. Transmission Inoperative
Tow the vehicle with a rear end pickup or remove the propeller shaft.
f. Transmission Operating Properly
The vehicle may be towed safely in N (neutral) at moderate speeds. For long distance towing
(over 100 miles), the propeller shaft should be removed.
4. POWER FLOW IN THE TRANSMISSION a. (Drive) Position Breakaway (See Fig. 4)
The power flow is from the converter turbine through the input shaft and front clutch retainer (one unit). The front clutch is applied and the drive continues through the clutch hub to the intermediate shaft and kickdown annulus gear (one unit). The kickdown annulus gear drives the kickdown planet pinion gears, rotating them in the same direction. The kickdown planet gears are meshed with the kickdown sun gear which in turn is integral with the reverse sun gear. Both sun gears are forced to rotate in a reverse direction by the reaction of the kickdown planet pinion carrier together with the reverse annulus gear, both of which are splined to the output shaft drive housing.
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—11
The reverse planet pinion carrier is attached to and prevented from turning backward by an overrunning clutch and becomes stationary in forward drive (overruns on coast). Therefore, the reverse planet carrier pinions are forced to rotate in a forward direction and force the reverse annulus to rotate in the same direction transmitting the power flow to the output shaft with the resulting ratio of the kickdown and reverse planetary gear sets of
2.45 to 1.
b. (Drive) Position-—2nd Speed and 2 (Second)
Position—2nd Speed (See Fig. 5)
The power flow is from the torque converter turbine through the input shaft to the front clutch (which is applied).
From the front clutch through the intermediate shaft to the annulus gear of the kickdown
(rear) planetary gear set. The kickdown band is applied which holds the sun gear stationary.
The annulus gear drives the kickdown planet pinions which rotate in the same direction as the input and intermediate shafts. The kickdown planet pinions are meshed with the sun gear; therefore, they walk around this gear and exert force through the kickdown planet pinion shafts to rotate the kickdown planet pinion carrier. The carrier, which is splined to the output shaft drive housing, rotates at a slower speed than the annulus gear, thus providing a gear ratio of 1.45 to 1.
FRONT CLUTCH APPLIED ICKDOWN BAND APPLIED
DRIVE POSITION-2ND ALSO 2ND SPEED IN 2ND POSITION 56x690
Fig. 5—Power Flow in D (Drive) Position—2nd Speed and 2 (Second) Position—2nd Speed
MyMopar.com
12—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DRIVE POSITION-DIRECT DRIVE
Fig. 6—Power Flow in D (Drive) Position—Direct
56x688 c. D (Drive) Position—Direct (See Fig. 6)
The power flow from the torque converter goes directly through the transmission because the planetary elements of the gear train are locked up by two mutiple disc clutches and both bands are released. The torque converter provides all of the torque multiplication.
Kickdown (Forced Downshift) in D (Drive)
Position Below approx. 30 M.P.H. This will force the transmission to downshift and the power flow will be the same as D (drive) position (breakaway).
FRONT CLUTCH APPLIED
Kickdown (Forced Downshift) in D (Drive)
Position at approx. 30 to 70 M.P.H. This will force the transmission to downshift and the power flow will be the same as D (drive) position 2nd speed.
d. 1 (Low) Position—Low Speed (See Fig. 7)
In 1 (low) position the power flow is the same as D (drive) position (breakaway) or 2 (second) position (breakaway) with one exception
—the low-reverse band is applied, holding the reverse planet carrier to provide engine braking.
L O W A N D REVERSE BAND APPLIED
LOW POSITION 1 LOW SPEED
Fig. 7—Power Flow in I (Low) Position—Low Speed
56x691
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—13
REAR CLUTCH APPLIED LOW AND REVERSE BAND APPLIED
REVERSE POSITION 56x692
Fig. 8—Power Flow in R (Reverse) Position e. R (Reverse) Position (See Fig. 8)
The rear clutch and the low-reverse band are applied. All other friction elements are released.
The power flow is from the torque converter turbine through the input shaft to the rear clutch hub (part of the front clutch retainer).
The rear clutch is splined to the reverse sun gear. The carrier of the reverse (front) planetary gear set is held stationary by the lowreverse band; therefore, the set acts as a simple reverse train through the reverse planet pinions to the reverse annulus (which is splined to the output shaft drive housing) and provides a reverse ratio of 2.20 to 1.
1 N (Neutral) Position
All friction elements are released. Hence, there is no drive connection between the engine and the rear wheels.
g. Power Flow Summary
The chart summarizes power flow conditions in the various ranges as regards to gear train elements involved and the ratios obtained.
BAND-CLUTCH APPLICATION CHART
Range Ratio
D
D
D
R
N
1
(Drive) position — (breakaway) 2.45
(Drive) position—second speed,
2 (Second) position—second speed 1.45
(Drive) position—direct 1.00
(Reverse) position 2.20
(Low) position—low speed 2.45
(Neutral) -
Element Applied
Front Clutch and Overrunning Clutch
Front Clutch and Kickdown (Front) Band
Front and Rear Clutches
Rear Clutch and Low-Reverse (Rear) Band
Front Clutch and Low-Reverse (Rear) Band
No Elements Applied
THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM
(REFER TO FIGS. 9 THROUGH 15)
The hydraulic control system must furnish oil pressure and route it at the proper time and pressure to the proper piston device for engaging the transmission in the desired gear.
This system is composed of several parts whose functions are interrelated.
(Continued on Page 21)
MyMopar.com
MyMopar.com
REV. a DIRECT
CLUTCH
OIL STRAINER
NOTE:
A-B-C-OE ARE
METERING HOLES
GOVERNOR
Fig. 10—Hydraulic Circuit—D (Drive)—Breakaway
LOW a REVERSE SERVO
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
DRIVE [BREAKAWAY)
HALF THROTTLE
LEGEND
BLUE (LINE)-90 P.S.I.
BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTIONJ-0-5 P.S.i.
YELLOW (CONVERTERJ-30 P.S.I.
YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-50-3O P.S.I.
GREEN (THROTTLE)-0-90 P.SJ.
BROWN (GOVERNORI-O-90 P.S.I.
56X70 IB
MyMopar.com
REV. a DIRECT
CLUTCH
OIL STRAINER
NOTE:
A-B-C-D-E ARE
METERING HOLES
GOVERNOR
Fig. 1 1 —Hydraulic Circuit—D (Drive)—Second
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
DRIVE (SECOND)
HALF THROTTLE
LEGEND
BLUE (LINEJ-9Q P.S.I.
BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I.
YELLOW (CONVERT'ER)-30 P.S.I.
YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-1Q-3O P.S.I.
GREEN (THROTTLE)-0-90 P.S.I.
GREEN DOT (THROTTLE COMP'ENSATOR)-
30-90 P.S.I.
BROWN (GOVERNOR)-0-90 P.S.I.
56X702B
MyMopar.com
MyMopar.com
MyMopar.com
REVEF
LEGE
P.S.I.
ip sue"
ERTER)
-UBE)rLEl-0
1 ROTTL
N0R)-i
MyMopar.com
REV a DIRECT
CLUTCH
- 3
O
SO
O tn so
> co
CO
CO
I—I
O
OIL STRAINER
NOTE'.
A-B-C-D-E ARE
METERING HOLES
GOVERNOR
Fig. 15—Hydraulic Circuit—R (Reverse)
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
REVERSE
LEGEND
BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTlON)-0.-5 P.S.I.
YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30 P.S.I.
YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-30 P.S.I.
RED (LINEJ-225 P.S.I.
56X706B
o o
IS
M
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
In a general way, the components of any automatic control system may be grouped into the following basic components or units:
(1) The pressure supply system.
(2) The clutches and band servos.
(3) The pressure regulating valves.
(4) The flow control valves.
Taking each of these basic components or units in turn, the control system may be described as follows:
5. THE PRESSURE SUPPLY SYSTEM a. Front Pump
Under all normal operation conditions (up to a forward speed of approximately 35 mph.) the front pump, driven at engine speed, provides oil needed for torque converter pressure, control pressures, and lubrication.
The front pump delivers oil at regulated pressure of approximately 90 psi. to fulfill these conditions and also satisfy the normal amount of internal leakage in the transmission at all engine speeds above approximately 700 rpm. In reverse, the front pump regulated pressure is increased to approximately 225 psi. in order to handle the high torque loads imposed during reverse operation.
b. Rear Pump
The rear pump (smaller than the front pump and driven by the output shaft) furnishes all of the oil required by the transmission in normal driving at all vehicle speeds above approximately 35 mph. Rear pump oil pressure is routed to the regulator valve body through a drilled passage in the transmission case. The front clutch and low-reverse band are applied by the oil pressure developed by the rear pump when the engine is started by pushing.
6. CLUTCHES AND BAND SERVOS a. Front Clutch
The front clutch transmits full engine and converter torque in all forward drive positions.
The front clutch piston is moved hydraulically to engage the multiple disc clutch in all forward speeds. The clutch piston is released by means
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—21
of the clutch return spring when feed of the control pressure is discontinued.
In order to develop the required capacity, a system of levers is used to actuate the clutch apply plate.
Although no pressure is applied to the front clutch piston in reverse or neutral, oil is present in the clutch piston chamber. With high rotative speeds of the clutch retainer in reverse or neutral, it is possible to build up sufficient centrifugal oil pressure to move the clutch piston.
To eliminate the possibility of clutch drag caused by such movement, the clutch check valve ball is unseated by centrifugal force and the oil in the chamber is allowed to escape. For normal application of the clutch, the flow of oil under controlled pressure into the clutch piston chamber is sufficient to seat the clutch check valve ball.
b. Rear Clutch
The rear clutch locks the gear train for direct drive operation in the forward range, and also transmits full input torque to the gear train in reverse operation. Rear clutch operation is similar to that of the front clutch, except that no levers are used. When making the power upshift from second to direct, the engagement of the clutch and disengagement of the kickdown band is accomplished by application of controlled pressure.
c. Kickdown Servo
The kickdown piston actuates the kickdown band through the kickdown lever, strut, and anchor, holding the sun gear of the rear planetary set stationary and resulting in a forward ratio of 1.45 to 1 through the rear planetary gear set. The kickdown piston is hydraulically applied in 2 (second) and D (drive) second
(kickdown) by two controlled pressures—line pressure and throttle compensated pressureacting on separate areas.
In N (neutral), 1 (low), D (drive) breakaway, and R (reverse) the kickdown piston is held released by the kickdown piston spring, there being no pressures applied to the kickdown piston at these times. In the D (drive) range, for the automatic upshift from second to direct drive, the kickdown piston is released by controlled pressure acting on the "off" area
MyMopar.com
22—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
of the kickdown piston. The force of the pressure on the "off" area, assisted by the kickdown piston spring, is sufficient to overcome the forces of line pressure and throttle compensator pressure acting on the apply side of the kickdown piston.
Application of the kickdown piston when shifting from breakaway to second is softened by the accumulator.
d. Low-Reverse Servo
The low-reverse servo has two functions which are performed independently. The low-reverse servo piston is moved hydraulically to apply the low-reverse band through the low-reverse band lever, strut, and anchor. The results are:
(1) To hold the carrier of the front planetary gear set stationary while the rear clutch
(applied) drives the sun gear. This provides a reverse ratio of 2.20 to 1 through the front planetary gear set, as shown in Figure 3.
(2) To hold the carrier of the front planetary gear set stationary while the front clutch
(applied) drives the intermediate shaft and kickdown annulus. This provides the 1 (low) range operation at a ratio of 2.45 to 1 through both planetary gear sets (see Fig. 7) which may be used for engine braking. Initial engagement of the low-reverse servo (when shifting from neutral to low or reverse) is softened by compression of the low-reverse servo cushion spring.
The servo piston is released by a return spring when the source of apply pressure is discontinued.
e. Accumulator
An accumulator cushions the front clutch engagement when a forward drive button is pushed in, and the application of the kickdown band in the upshift from breakaway to second. It is connected in parallel and to the passage which supplies line pressure to the apply side of the kickdown servo.
In neutral and reverse the accumulator piston is held released by the accumulator spring, there being no pressure applied to the piston at these times.
In the D (drive) range, for the automatic
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL upshift from breakaway to second, the accumulator piston is again moved by line pressure
(kickdown servo apply) acting on the large end of the piston. The force of line pressure (assisted by the accumulator spring) is sufficient to overcome the force of line pressure (front clutch) which is acting on the small area of the accumulator piston. This action cushions the application of the kickdown band.
7. PRESSURE REGULATING VALVES a. Regulator Valve
The regulator valve controls line pressure at a value of approximately 90 psi. for all operating conditions except reverse. Line pressure, which is supplied by the front pump (at car speeds under 35 mph.) is routed directly to a primary reaction area in the regulator valve body. For all conditions except reverse, line pressure is also routed through the front valve body to the secondary reaction area. A line pressure of 90 psi. (acting on the two reaction areas) is sufficient to overcome the force of the regulator valve spring and move the valve to the position that will allow oil to flow through a restricting hole in the regulator valve body to the torque converter.
If the oil flow from the front pump exceeds the amount necessary to feed the torque converter and transmission line, pressure will rise slightly, causing the regulator valve to move to a new position where excess oil from the front pump pressure port is allowed to dump into the front pump suction port.
Above a car speed of approximately 35 mph., the rear pump furnishes the oil needed by the torque converter and transmission at a line pressure of approximately 90 psi. When this condition is reached, the pressure increases slightly and the regulator valve moves over to a new position where the excess flow is dumped from the line pressure port into the front pump suction port. Under this condition the front pump check valve closes and all of the oil pumped from the front pump is dumped back through the large valve opening into the front pump suction port. Thus the front pump turns with reduced effort since it is operating at a low pressure.
For reverse operation, oil must be at a pressure of 225 psi. This is accomplished by shut-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ting off the source of line pressure to the regulator valve secondary reaction area, with the result that a line pressure of 225 psi., applied to the primary reaction area, is required to overcome the force of the regulator valve spring.
b. Torque Converter Control Valve
This valve maintains an oil pressure of approximately 30 psi. within the torque converter. Oil is fed from the regulator valve through a restricting hole in the regulator valve body to the torque converter. The oil flows through the torque converter and returns to the regulator valve body where the converter pressure is regulated by the torque converter control valve.
When the torque converter pressure rises to 30 psi., the control valve will move against the spring load and allow oil to flow to the cooler then back to the lubrication circuit. Torque converter pressure acts on the valve's reaction area such that if it exceeds 60 psi., the valve is moved further against the spring load, permitting excess oil from the converter to by-pass into the oil pan. From the torque converter control valve, oil is routed through the transmission lubrication system to lubricate the gear train.
c. Governor Valve
The governor valve assembly transmits a hydraulic pressure to the transmission which is proportional to car speed. This governed pressure, in conjunction with throttle pressure, controls upshift and downshift speeds. The governor is so mounted on the output shaft that when the output shaft rotates, the governor weight assembly exerts a centrifugal force on the governor shaft. The governor shaft transmits this force to the governor valve. Oil is allowed to flow from the line pressure port to the governor pressure port, building up pressure in the governor circuit and against the valve reaction area sufficient to balance the centrifugal force of the weight.
The greater the vehicle speed, the greater is the centrifugal force of the weights, and hence the greater the governor pressure necessary to balance the centrifugal force. If the vehicle speed decreases, the decrease in centrifugal force allows the valve to move out slightly, venting excess oil and bringing the governor once more in balance at a lower pressure.
The governor weight assembly is constructed
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—23 so that for vehicle speeds under approximately
25 mph., both weights act as a unit, with the result that small changes in vehicle speed result in comparatively large changes in centrifugal force and governor pressure. Above approximately 25 mph., the primary weight moves outward against the preload of the spring and bottoms against the snap ring leaving only the secondary weight active. Small variations in vehicle speed above approximately 25 mph., therefore, result in only small variations in governor pressure.
Governor pressure is routed to the governor pressure ports of the reverse blocker valve, shuttle valve, and the 1-2 and 2-3 shift valves governor plugs.
d. Throttle Valve
The throttle valve assembly transmits a hydraulic pressure to the transmission which is proportional to the amount of throttle opening.
The throttle valve lever shaft is rotated in proportion to the amount of throttle opening of the carburetor by a linkage connecting the throttle valve lever shaft to the car's throttle linkage.
The throttle valve lever shaft positions the kickdown valve and throttle valve spring in accordance with the amount of carburetor throttle opening, the spring being free (no load) at closed throttle and compressed at wide open throttle. Therefore, the throttle valve spring exerts a force on the throttle valve that increases with carburetor throttle opening.
The throttle valve allows oil to flow from the line pressure port to the throttle pressure port, which is connected by a passage to the reaction area of the throttle valve. Throttle pressure will build up in the throttle pressure circuit and against the reaction area until it reaches a value great enough to balance the force of the throttle valve spring. If throttle pressure builds up too high, the throttle valve will move slightly to a position such that excess oil is allowed to escape through the vent port.
Throttle pressure will vary with the amount of carburetor throttle opening from a value of
0 (zero) pressure at closed throttle to a value of approximately 90 psi. at wide open throttle.
Throttle pressure is routed to the following places:
(1) Throttle pressure port of the kickdown valve.
MyMopar.com
24—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
(2) Throttle pressure port of the throttle compensator valve.
(3) Through check valve to throttle pressure port of the shuttle valve plug.
(4) To the throttle pressure port of the 3-1 relay valve.
(5) To the throttle pressure port of the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug (W.O. throttle condition).
(6) To the throttle pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug (W.O. throttle condition).
e. Throttle Compensator Valve
The throttle compensator valve amplifies the variations in throttle pressure. Oil flows from the line presisure port of the 1-2 shift valve (in the upshifted position) to the throttle compensator valve pressure port. Throttle compensator pressure is controlled by throttle pressure and spring force acting on one end of the valve against a reaction area fed by compensator pressure. Throttle compensator pressure will vary with the amount of carburetor throttle opening from a value of approximately 30 psi.
at closed throttle to a value of 90 psi. at approximately % throttle. This arrangement makes it possible to more closely obtain the variations required for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Throttle compensator pressure is routed to the throttle compensator pressure area of the kickdown servo.
8. FLOW CONTROL VALVES a. Front and Rear Pump Check Valves
The front pump check valve prevents back flow from the rear pump into the pressure side of the pump when the pump is either stationary or merely circulating oil at a very low pressure.
The check valve separates front and rear pump.
NOTE: The pump that has the higher pressure supplies the demands of the transmission*
The rear pump check valves allows oil to flow from the rear pump into the control system of the transmission. The front and rear pump check valves are combined as a leaf spring unit and mounted in the regulator valve body behind the front pump.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL b. Manual Valve
The manual valve obtains the different transmission drive ranges as selected by the vehicle operator. The manual valve is moved by a cable which is connected to the push button control unit on the instrument panel. It is held in these positions by the force of a spring-loaded detent ball.
When the N (neutral) button is pushed in, the manual valve is positioned so that line pressure from the regulator valve is routed to the secondary and primary reaction areas of the regulator valve. Line pressure is, therefore, 90 psi. but neither the band nor the clutches are applied.
When the R (reverse) button is pushed in, the manual valve shuts off line pressure to the secondary reaction area of the regulator valve and routes line pressure (at 225 psi.) to the rear clutch and low-reverse servo.
When D (drive) button is pushed in, the manual valve is positioned to route line pressure to the following places:
(1) The secondary reaction area of the regulator valve (making line pressure 90 psi.).
(2) The line pressure port of the throttle valve.
(3) The line pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve and through metering hole "A" to the line pressure port of the 2-3 shift valve.
(4) Through metering hole "C" to the line pressure area of the accumulator and front clutch.
When the 2 (second) button is pushed in, the manual valve routes line pressure to the same places as in D (drive) and to the following additional places:
(1) Through ball check valve to the kickdown pressure port of the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug.
(2) Through ball check valve to the throttle pressure port of the shuttle valve plug.
When the L (low) button is pushed in, the manual valve routes line pressure to the same places as in 2 (second) and the following additional places:
(1) The low pressure port of the 1-2 shift
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL valve governor plug and through the ball check valve to the low-reverse servo.
(2) Through ball check valve to the kickdown pressure port of the kickdown pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug.
c. Reverse Blocker Valve
The reverse blocker valve mechanically blocks the manual valve from moving into reverse position to prevent accidental reverse engagement above approximately 10-15 mph. When the reverse button is depressed above this speed the transmission shifts to neutral and remains in neutral until another button is depressed.
The reverse blocker valve is activated by governor pressure.
d. 1-2 Shift Valve
This valve determines whether the transmission is either in low gear ratio or second gear ratio, depending upon whether the valve is in the upshifted or down-shifted position. The 1-2 shift valve train (consisting of shift valve kickdown plug, valve spring, shift valve and governor plug) is normally at either extreme of its travel.
With the valve train down-shifted (at the extreme of travel toward the governor pressure end of the rear valve body) any oil in the kickdown servo apply area is allowed to escape through the vent port.
When the shift valve train is moved to the opposite extreme of its travel, the vent port is closed off and oil is fed by line pressure to the following places:
(1) 3-1 relay valve.
(2) Line pressure port of the shuttle valve.
(3) Line pressure port of the throttle compensator valve.
(4) Through servo pressure bleed "D" to the kickdown servo apply pressure port of the shuttle valve.
(5) The apply area of the kickdown servo.
(6) The accumulator.
(7) Line pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug.
The kickdown piston and accumulator are so designed that the value of the "balance pres-
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—25
sure" is sufficient to complete a smooth band application during the time required to stop the rear clutch retainer. After completion of the
1-2 shift, the servo apply pressure rises further to the value of line pressure, providing a "safety margin" of band load.
At light throttle (low throttle pressure), the shift valve is made to upshift at approximately
10 mph. and "balance pressure" is at a low value corresponding to the small force of throttle compensator pressure on the kickdown piston. The resulting band application load is, therefore, in proportion to the light throttle engine output. At wide open throttle (90 psi.
throttle pressure), the shift valve upshifts at approximately 40 mph. and throttle compensator pressure is at a high value, applying the band at a load corresponding to a high engine output.
With the 1-2 shift valve train in the upshifted position, throttle pressure is not allowed to act on the end of the shift valve. Instead, any oil trapped in that area is allowed to vent through the drilled hole in the shift valve. The shift valve spring then exerts the only force on the
"throttle pressure end" of the shift valve. At throttle openings less than wide open, the shift valve will downshift to breakaway when vehicle speed drops to a point where the governor pressure can no longer overcome the force of the shift valve spring. This downshift occurs at a vehicle speed of approximately 7-11 mph.
All that is required of the 1-2 shift valve for low range operation is that it must downshift below kickdown limit in response to the movement of the push button to low position and remain downshifted regardless of vehicle speed.
The shift valve is forced to downshift by the application of line pressure from the low port of the manual valve around the ball check valve to the kickdown pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug. To insure that the shift valve remains downshifted regardless of car speed, line pressure is also allowed to act onthe low reaction area of the 1-2 shift valve governor plug.
It is necessary that whenever the forces of governor pressure and throttle pressure act on the shift valve to cause an upshift, the valve must "snap" from one position to the other without hesitating or "hunting". This is accom-
MyMopar.com
26—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION plished by a differential area which is subjected to supply pressure when, the valve is upshifted.
When the valve is upshifted, throttle pressure is cut off so that normal downshifts are not throttle sensitive.
e. 2-3 Shift Valve
This shift valve automatically shifts the transmission from intermediate to direct gear. The
2-3 shift valve train is similar in construction and operation to the 1-2 shift valve train, in that it is controlled by governor and throttle pressures and spring force. When the valve train is in the upshifted position, oil is fed by line pressure through metering hole "A" to the following places:
(1) 3-1 relay valve.
(2) Through or around metering hole "E"
(depending on shuttle valve position) to the
"off" area of the kickdown servo and through the ball check valve to the rear clutch piston.
With the shift valve downshifted (at the extreme of travel toward the governor pressure end of the rear valve body) any oil in the rear clutch chamber and the kickdown servo "off" area is allowed to escape through the vent port.
f. 3-1 Relay Valve
This valve obtains a 3-1 downshift. The 3-1 relay valve is a valve arranged so that the 2-3 shift valve is coupled to the 1-2 shift valve during downshift at light throttle. Under these conditions, line pressure from the 2-3 shift valve acting on the 3-1 relay valve overcomes the forces of throttle and spring pressure moving the valve to the throttle pressure end. In this position, line pressure from the 1-2 shift valve is permitted to act on the governor plug end of the 2-3 shift valve holding the 2-3 shift valve in the upshift position regardless of governor pressure.
As car speed decreases and governor pressure can no longer overcome the force of the 1-2 shift valve spring, the 1-2 shift valve will downshift, cutting off the line pressure to the 3-1 relay valve. This will permit the two shift valves to downshift at the same time resulting in a smooth 3-1 downshift.
g. Kickdown Valve
The kickdown valve makes possible a forced
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL downshift from direct to second—second to breakaway and direct to breakaway by depressing the accelerator pedal past the detent "feel" near wide open throttle.
It is desirable to limit the maximum vehicle speed at which kickdown may be made (approximately 70 mph. from drive to second and approximately 30 mph. from drive or second to breakaway). The throttle pressure actuated kickdown detent plug on the stem of the kickdown valve, supplies the resistance necessary for a detent "feel" at kickdown. With the kickdown valve in the kickdown position, throttle pressure is routed to the following places:
(1) Through ball check valve to the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug.
(2) Through ball check valve to the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug.
This pressure, when applied to the end of the kickdown plugs, is great enough to make the shift valves downshift against the force of any governor pressure up to the kickdown limit speeds.
h. Shuttle Valve, Shuttle Valve Plug, and Servo Pressure Bleed Valve
The shuttle valve has two separate functions and performs each independently of the other.
The first is that of providing fast release of the kickdown band, and delayed smooth rear clutch engagement when the driver makes a "lift-foot" upshift from second to direct.
The "lift-foot" upshift is "made by accelerating the vehicle in breakaway or second gear and then returning the accelerator pedal to closed throttle. Without the shuttle valve, the resulting upshift to direct would consist of a series of lurches, caused first by the braking effect on the vehicle by the second gear ratio and then by the harsh engagement of the rear clutch.
Under conditions of closed throttle (no throttle pressure) and moderate vehicle speed (moderate governor pressure) the shuttle valve and shuttle valve plug are forced to their extreme of travel (toward the throttle pressure end of the shuttle valve plug). In this position, oil is allowed to flow from the kickdown servo apply pressure port to the rear clutch pressure port and kickdown servo "off" area. Because the line pressure apply area of the kickdown servo
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL is being fed oil only through the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve, pressure on this area drops to a low value while oil from the 2-3 shift valve builds up pressure on the rear clutch and the "off" area of the kickdown servo. The kickdown band load is then reduced sufficiently to allow a smooth band release. In the meantime, pressure in the rear clutch has built up sufficiently to complete a smooth engagement.
The second function of the shuttle valve is to regulate the application of the kickdown piston when making high speed (above approximately 30 mph.) kickdowns. Kickdowns made at low vehicle speeds require very little time in which to complete the shift due to the comparatively small change in engine speed between direct and kickdown gear. The higher the vehicle speed at which the kickdown is made, the longer is the time required to make a smooth shift.
The force of the shuttle valve spring is great enough so that the force of governor pressure
(at vehicle speeds under approximately 30 mph.) on the governor pressure area cannot move the shuttle valve toward the shuttle valve plug. Thus, for kickdowns below 30 mph. oil is fed to the line pressure area of the kickdown servo through both the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve and the line pressure and servo pressure ports of the shuttle valve. Speed of kickdown piston application is then at its maximum.
As further insurance against the engine
"running away" during low speed kickdowns, rear clutch disengagement is delayed while the kickdown piston is applying the band. This is accomplished by the introduction of a restriction (metering hole "E") placed such that oil is "backed up" into the clutch chamber as the kickdown piston moves on. This "back up" pressure is greatest on low speed kickdowns when the kickdown piston applies rapidly and is sufficient to hold the clutch applied until the kickdown band is applied. At this time, the kickdown piston can no longer force oil into the clutch and the pressure is allowed to fall to zero.
For kickdowns at higher vehicle speeds, governor pressure attains a sufficient value to move the shuttle valve toward the shuttle valve plug, cutting off the feed of line pressure to the shut-
TORQUE-FLUE TRANSMISSION—27
tle valve. Oil must then flow to the apply pressure area of the kickdown servo only through the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve. Kickdown piston application is, therefore, retarded.
9. OPERATIONAL SUMMARY
With the D (drive) button pushed in, the manual valve is positioned to give the full range of operation of the transmission. With the manual valve in the drive position, the front clutch is engaged and the transmission will transmit drive torque in breakaway.
At a speed which is dependent on throttle position, the transmission automatically upshifts to second gear. The change is initiated by movement of the 1-2 shift valve to the upshifted position so that pressure is directed to the apply side of the kickdown servo. When the kickdown band develops sufficient capacity to slow the rear clutch retainer, the overrunning clutch starts to over-run, so release of the previous reaction member is automatic. The band application during the shift is controlled by action of the accumulator.
At a speed which is again dependent on throttle position, the transmission makes an upshift to direct. This action is initiated by movement of the 2-3 shift valve. The upshift is accomplished by simultaneous disengagement of the kickdown band and engagement of the rear clutch.
Forced 3-2 shift is obtained below speeds shown in Shift Pattern Summary Chart, and forced 3-1 shift is obtainable below speeds shown in Shift Pattern Summary Chart. Normal downshifts are not throttle sensitive and above half-throttle, they occur in sequence 3-2, and 2-1. At throttle openings less than halfthrottle the two shift valves are interlocked by means of the 3-1 relay valve and the two shift valves downshift together. The shift occurs as a 3-1 relay sequence at the normal 2-1 downshift speed. This action provides a smooth downshift since the overrunning clutch is overrunning in breakaway.
Pushing in the 2 (second) button of the control unit moves the manual valve so that line pressure is directed to the kickdown circuit of the 2-3 shift valve. When in direct, this results in a downshift to second speed only if the vehicle speed is below 3-2 kickdown limit. If the
MyMopar.com
28—TORQUE-ELITE TRANSMISSION
vehicle is accelerated in second gear to the wide open throttle upshift speed, an upshift to direct will occur, thus eliminating over-speeding the engine in second gear. Operation of the 1-2 and
2-1 shift occur in the same manner as in the
D (drive) position.
Pushing in the 1 (low) button of the control unit positions the manual valve so that line pressure is directed to the kickdown circuit of the 1-2 shift valve. This results in a downshift to low only if the vehicle speed is below the
3-1 kickdown limit. Use of 1 (low) is intended primarily for engine braking so it is also necessary that the low-reverse band be engaged to lock the overrunning clutch. Line pressure from the low speed port of the manual valve body is fed to the low port of the 1-2 shift valve governor plug where it is blocked until governor pressure drops sufficiently so that line pressure at the kickdown plug overcomes it and the
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL complete valve train shifts down. After the downshift, pressure at the low port of the governor plug is permitted to react on an area of the governor plug and also directed to the lowreverse servo. Then, the line pressure, acting on the combined areas of the governor plug and the kickdown plug, prevent an upshift— regardless of vehicle speed.
Pushing in the N (neutral) button moves the manual valve to a position which shuts off oil flow to the valve bodies. The torque converter and lubrication system remains pressurized.
Pushing in the R (reverse) button of the control unit positions the manual valve so that oil pressure is directed to apply the rear clutch and low-reverse band. In order to transmit the high torque loads involved in reverse operation, the system pressure is raised to 225 psi. by cutting off the pressure, and venting of the secondary reaction area of the regulator valve.
MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENTS AND TESTS
CAUTION
While in the process of making adjustments and tests, do not stall test the torque converter. For safety reasons and because damage to the transmission may result, wide open throttle stall operation should not be attempted.
10. ROAD TESTING THE TRANSMISSION
First check the transmission fluid level and set engine idle. Good transmission operation depends on good engine operation. Make sure the engine is operating at full efficiency. If when tuning the engine, the throttle linkage between the carburetor and the transmission is disturbed, it will be necessary to readjust the linkage.
Before attempting to diagnose or correct the transmission operation, the engine and transmission should be warmed up to operating temperature. A short drive, approximately five to ten miles, with frequent starts and stops will create normal operating temperature of the engine and transmission.
All shifts and kickdowns should occur within speed ranges given in the Shift Pattern Summary Chart.
EXPLANATION OF INDEX ITEMS
Never remove a transmission from a car until all the possible "in car" causes have been checked for the operating difficulty and the oil pan has been removed to check for dirt, metal chips, band material, broken band ends, and burned or scored band contacting surfaces.
Also, check the manual control cable and throttle linkage for adjustment and wear.
A. Oil Level—Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual.
B. Throttle Linkage—Refer to Paragraph 16.
C. Gearshift control cable—Refer to Paragraph 13.
D. Pressure tap check—Hydraulic pressure taps have been provided to check the following pressures: line, lubrication, governor, rear clutch apply, and throttle (compensated). These pressures should fall within the specified limits stated in the Hydraulic Control Pressure Check
Charts.
E. Kickdown band adjustment—The kickdown band adjustment screw is found on the left side of the transmission case (Fig. 22).
Refer to Paragraph 15.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—29
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS CHART
The Trouble Diagnosis Chart has the operating: difficulties listed in three groups. After road testing, match the trouble found to its particular group and to the specific difficulty under that group. The Index and Item in the
"Items to Check" column are next checked against the "Explanation of Index Items." Capital letter items refer to those operations which may be performed without removing the transmission. The small letter items refer to those operations done after removal of transmission from car.
OPERATING DIFFICULTY
Shift Abnormalities Response Miscellaneous
ITEMS
TO CHECK
See "Explanation of Index Items*'
Perform Items:
A, B, C, and G first
INDEX ITEM
A. Oil Level
B. Throttle Link Adj.
• • • • •
C. Gearshift Control
Cable Adj.
D. Pressure Checks—
Line Lube, etc.
E. K. D. Band Adj.
F. Low-Reverse Band Adj
G. Engine Idle
H. Starting Switches
•
• •
• • • •
• •
I. Handbrake Adj.
J. Regulator—Valve Spring #
K. Converter Control Valve
L. Breather
M. Output Shaft Rear
Bearing S. R.
N. T. C. Cooling
0. K. D. Servo
Band-Linkage
P. L-R Servo,
Band-Linkage
Q. Oil Strainer
R. Valve B o d y -
Bolts—Mating Surfaces
S. Accumulator
•
• • • •
•
•
• • •
• •
•
•
• •
• •
•
• •
•
• • •
• • •
• • •
•
•
• •
• • •
•
• • • •
•
•
• •
•
•
•
•
U. Governor
V. Rear Pump a. Front Pump—
Drive Sleeve b. Regulator Valve
Body, Gasket, Surfaces c. Converter d. Front Clutch e. Rear Clutch f. Planetary Gear Set g. Overrunning Clutch
• • •
• •
• •
• • • •
•
• •
• • • •
•
• • •
• • •
• •
•
• • •
• • •
• • •
•
• • •
• • •
• •
MyMopar.com
30—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
F. Low and reverse band adjustment—The low and reverse band adjustment screw is found on the right side of the transmission case. (Fig.
22). Refer to Paragraph 15.
G. Engine idle—Adjust to 475 to 500 r.p.m.
H. Starting switches—Check wires, connections and switch. Check clearance of N (neutral) push button slide to motor starting switch contact clearance (Paragraph 20).
Difficulty in starting the engine can often be traced to faulty operation of the vacuum safety switch. This switch can be tested by wrapping a piece of soft wire around the bottom of both terminals to by-pass the switeh and complete the circuit. If engine starts (with switch by-passed) the switch is faulty. This condition is corrected by incorporating a vent hole (%
2
inch) in cap section of switch, just below fiber insulating washers. Punch hole anywhere in outer diameter of cap, using a sharp tool, such as an ice pick.
I. Handbrake—Check for excessive drag.
Clearance should be .010-.015 in. Refer to
Brakes Section III for method of adjusting handbrake.
J. Regulator valve, spring—The regulator valve may be removed by removing the regulator valve spring retainer which is on the right side of the transmission case (Fig. 22).
Check for a stuck or scratched valve and/or buckled spring.
K. Converter control valve, spring—The converter control valve may be removed by removing the converter control valve spring retainer which is on the right side of the transmission case (Fig. 22). Check for a stuck or scratched valve and/or buckled spring.
L. Breather—Check to determine whether breather is free of dirt and undercoating.
M. Output shaft rear bearing, snap ring—
Check for rough bearing and/or unseated snap ring and correct thickness snap ring.
N. Torque converter—Check oil cooler lines for being bent, kinked or having loose connections.
O. Kickdown servo, band and linkage—
Check for broken seal rings, stuck servo piston or broken linkage.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
P. Low and reverse servo, band and linkage
—Check for torn seal, broken band and/or linkage.
age.
Q. Oil strainer—Check for possible air leak-
R. Valve body attaching bolts and mating surface—Check for loose bolts, burrs or scratches on mating surfaces. Clean valve body assembly.
Check for stuck valves, dirt, scratched valves or body, and burrs on valves. Torque valve body bolts to specifications.
S. Accumulator—Check accumulator cover screw tightness and piston for broken rings.
Torque accumulator cover screws to specifications.
T. Air pressure checks—The front clutch, rear clutch, kickdown servo, and low and re-
H
A-GOVERNOR PRESSURE
B-REAR PUMP INLET
C-REAR CLUTCH 'APPLY' (Line pressure)
D - L O W AND REVERSE SERVO 'APPLY'(Line pressure)
E—KICKDOWN SERVO 'APPLY' (Throttle compensated pressure)
F - L O W AND REVERSE SERVO (Location)
G—KICKDOWN SERVO (Location)
H—KICKDOWN SERVO 'APPLY' (Line pressure)
J_KICKDOWN SERVO 'RELEASE' (Line pressure)
K—ACCUMULATOR (Location)
L— FRONT CLUTCH AND ACCUMULATOR 'APPLY'(Line pressure)
M-LINE PRESSURE
N-FRONT PUMP INLET
O-REVERSE UPSET (Reverse blocker 'Apply') (Line pressure)
P-LINE PRESSURE GAUGE 56x712A
Fig. 16—Oil Passages in Transmission Case
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL verse servo may be checked by applying air pressure to their respective passages when the valve body is removed. To make the complete air pressure check proceed as follows: (Refer to Fig. 16.)
CAUTION
Compressed air supply must be free of all dirt and moisture.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist, drain the transmission fluid and remove the transmission oil pan. Remove the accumulator cover and valve bodies assembly. Apply air pressure to the front clutch passage, located slightly toward the center of the transmission from the accumulator
(be sure to cover accumulator piston bore to prevent piston from being blown out). Protect from oil spray by holding a clean lintless cloth, cardboard, or some other shield against the bottom of the transmission case when applying the air pressure. Listen for a dull "thud" which indicates that the front clutch is operating.
Hold the air pressure on for a few seconds and observe for excessive oil leaks in the system.
Apply air pressure to the rear clutch passage
(near the center rear end of the lower surface of the transmission case). Listen for a dull
"thud" which indicates that the rear clutch is operating. Also check for excessive oil leaks.
Apply air pressure to the kickdown "apply"
(line) pressure passage (toward the center of the transmission case and to the front of the kickdown servo. Observe the operation of the kickdown servo lever and band when air pressure is applied.
Apply air pressure to the kickdown "apply"
(compensated throttle) pressure passage (toward the center of the transmission case and to the rear of the kickdown servo). Observe the operation of the kickdown servo.
Apply air pressure to the low and reverse servo passage (toward the center of the transmission case and to the front of the low and reverse servo). Observe the operation of the low and reverse servo, lever, and band, when air pressure is applied.
If the clutches and servos operate properly,
"no drive" conditions as well as erratic or no upshift conditions, indicate that the malfunctioning exists in the control valve body assem-
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—31 bly. Disassemble, clean, inspect and service the valve body assembly as described under "Reconditioning of Valve Body and Transfer Plate
Assemblies."
Upon completion of the air pressure check, and servicing the valve body assembly, install the valve body assembly, accumulator cover, and transmission oil pan. Fill the transmission to proper level with fluid, and adjust the control cable and throttle linkage.
U. Governor—Clean assembly, and check weight assembly and valve for burrs, scratches or sticky operation. Examine the governor valve shaft, shaft snap rings and seal rings.
V. Rear pump—Clean and inspect assembly for side and diametral clearance. Note whether rear oil pump pinion ball is in place. Examine output shaft support face for scoring.
a. Front pump—Drive sleeve—Clean and inspect assembly for side and diametral clearance.
Examine oil pump inner and outer rotor for scoring. Check front pump drive sleeve seal rings.
b. Regulator valve, mating surfaces, gasket—
Clean and inspect valve body for scratches and scoring on valve bores and face which bears against the front pump housing. Examine the valve body to determine if the secondary reaction orifice is free of dirt. Check gasket for uniformness of compression by valve body.
c. Converter—Flush out converter and check converter to housing runout. Refer to Torque
Converter Section of this manual.
d. Front clutch—Clean and inspect discs, plates, drive hub, return spring, piston levers, cushion spring and retainer. Check the following front clutch circuit leakage possibilities:
(1) Valve body and valve body to case mating surface.
(2) Accumulator small and large piston rings.
(3) Regulator valve body to case mating surface.
(4) Torque converter reaction shaft seal ring.
(5) Input shaft small and large seal rings.
(6) Intermediate shaft No. 1, 2, and 3 seal rings.
MyMopar.com
32—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
(7) Front clutch oil feed tube.
(8) Front clutch piston inner and outer seal ring.
(9) Front clutch check valve ball.
e. Rear clutch—Clean and inspect discs, plates, return spring and piston. Check the following rear clutch circuit leakage possibilities:
(1) Valve body and valve body to case mating surface.
(2) Output shaft support to case mating surface.
(3) Output shaft small and large seal rings.
(4) Intermediate shaft No. 4, 5, and 6 seal rings.
(5) Rear clutch oil feed tube.
(6) Sun gear rear clutch seal rings.
(7) Rear clutch piston inner and outer seal rings.
(8) Rear clutch check valve ball.
(9) Kickdown piston rod guide seal ring and rod guide to kickdown rod fit.
(10) Large kickdown piston seal ring.
f. Planetary gear set—Clean and inspect gear set for worn thrust washers, nicked or rough gear teeth, and excessive pinion end clearance.
g- Low Speed Over-running clutch—Clean and inspect the over-running clutch assembly for brinelled rollers and/or cam and improperly assembled rollers or springs.
11. LUBRICATION
For lubrication requirements of the Torque-
Flite Transmission, refer to the Lubrication
Section of this manual.
12. OIL LEAKS a. Leaks Repaired with Transmission in Vehicle
Transmission output shaft rear bearing oil seal.
Extension gasket. Speedometer pinion assembly
In extension. Oil pan to filler tube connector. Oil pan to transmission case. Regulator valve and torque converter control valve spring retainers.
Regulator valve adjusting screw.
Gearshift control cable seal ring and housing gasket. Governor, line, lubrication, rear clutch
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL apply and throttle (compensated) pressure check plugs in transmission case or support
(pressure test holes). Neutral starting switch.
If oil is found inside torque converter housing, determine whether it is Automatic Transmission Fluid or engine oil. Check torque converter drain plug for tightness.
Leaks at these locations should be corrected, regardless of how slight. Correct by tightening loose screws or plugs. Where this does not remedy the situation, replace faulty gaskets, seals or plugs.
b. Leaks Requiring Removal of Transmission from Vehicle
Sand hole in transmission case. Sand hole in front oil pump housing. Front oil pump housing screws or damaged sealing washers. Front oil pump housing seal (located on outside diameter of front oil pump housing) torque converter.
Leaks at these locations may be corrected by tightening loose bolts or replacing damaged or faulty parts.
13. GEARSHIFT CONTROL
CABLE ADJUSTMENT
Engage the R (reverse) push button. Raise vehicle on hoist and drain approximately two quarts of fluid from the transmission. Loosen the control cable adjusting clip screw and remove the neutral starting switch (Fig. 17).
Insert a screwdriver through the neutral starting switch mounting hold and pry lightly on the lever to hold the lever in the reverse detent position.
Move the control cable in and out while observing the amount of free travel, then position the cable in the center of this free travel. Tighten the adjusting clip screw and install the neutral starting switch as outlined in Paragraph
14.
MANUAL CONTROL NEUTRAL STARTERJIm
WITCH!
SPLIT CABLE
TRAVEL AT
THIS POINT
ADAPTER
Fig. 17—Manual Control Cable Adjustment
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CUPPED WASHER 'O" RING
SWITCH ~ 56x228
Fig. 18—Neutral Starting Switch (Disassembled)
14. INSTALLING AND TESTING NEUTRAL
STARTING SWITCH (FIG. 18) a. Installation and Tests
Install the concave spring (cupped) washer over the threads of the neutral starting switch so that the concave (cupped) side of the washer is towards the transmission case. Install the
"0" ring seal over the threads of the neutral starting switch and up against the washer.
Screw the neutral starting switch into the case until the spring washer contacts the transmission case, then tighten one-third of a turn.
Check operation of switch by checking the low (1) and reverse (R) button over-travel
(must be equal for proper cable adjustment).
Should switch still fail to function, it is recommended that the following modification be performed to the neutral starting switch.
(a) Remove the neutral starting switch and machine %
2
" from the seating surface of the switch as illustrated in Fig. 19.
(b) Clean the switch, replace the concave
(cupped) washer and "0" ring seal, and install the switch.
NOTE: The switch must be tight enough to pre-
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—33
vent oil leakage. If it is not, add a thin washer and retighten.
Refill transmission to proper level as outlined in Lubrication Section. Check starter operation by pushing the various push buttons and returning to neutral.
CAUTION
Neutral starting switch failure may occur due to very high amperage current flowing through the switch. This results when a juniper wire or remote control starting switch is improperly connected, when placed in the circuit when taking compression readings.
It is important that the jumper leads be connected to the battery terminal and ignition terminal of the starter relay.
b. Switch Lever Alignment
Remove the neutral starting switch and check the location of the neutral starting switch lever inside the transmission, as illustrated in Figure
20.
The lever should be dead center of the starter switch mounting hold in the transmission
(when lever is in neutral detent). In instances where it is not aligned properly, install a new valve body.
15. BAND ADJUSTMENTS a. Kickdown Band
The kickdown band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the transmission case (Fig.
22). Loosen the locknut and back off approximately 5 turns. Check for freeness of adjusting screw in transmission case. Using wrench, Tool
58X17
Fig. 19— Neutral Starting Switch
/ r
— —
J
\
^ 1
(A)
INCORRECT
N
(B)
CORRECT
5 8 X 1 6
Fig. 20—Lever Alignment
MyMopar.com
34—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
C-3380 with adapter C-3583, tighten to a reading of 47-50 inch-pounds torque.
NOTE: This will be a true torque of 70-75 inchpounds which reading should be used if torque wrench C-3380 is used without the adapter C-
3583 (as may be done if adjustment is made with the transmission removed from the car).
Back off the adjusting screw 2*4 turns.
NOTE: To compensate for initial wear-in, the adjustment of a new band must be
l
/i turn tighter than the specification given.
Holding adjusting screw, tighten locknut to
35-40 foot-pounds torque.
b. Low-Reverse Band (Rear)
The low-reverse band adjusting screw is located on the right side of the transmission case (Fig.
22). Loosen the locknut and back off approximately 5 turns. Check for freeness of adjusting screw in transmission case.
Using wrench, Tool C-3380 with adapter C-
3583, tighten to a reading of 47-50 inch-pounds torque.
NOTE: This will be a true torque of 70-75 inchpounds which reading should be used if torque wrench C-3380 is used without the adapter C-
3580 (as may be done if adjustment is made with transmission removed from vehicle).
Back off adjusting screw 2% turns.
CARBURETOR TO BELL
CRANK ROD
DASH PANEL
BELL CRANK TO
ACCELERATOR
PEDAL ROD
BELL CRANK
TO TRANSMISSION
ROD
TRANSMISSION THROTTLE
VALVE LEVER
58x63
Fig. 21—Throttle Linkage Adjustments
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT LOCATING SCREW
X CONVERTER
ONTROL VALVE
THROTTLE PRESSURE (COMPENSATED)
TEST HOLE PLUG
(Right Side of Transmission)
REGULATOR
VALVE
ADJUSTING
SCREW
FILLER TUBE
CONNECTOR
57x237A
LUBRICATION PRESSURE
REAR CLUTCH APPLY PRESSURE TEST PLUG
INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT LOCATING SCREW
GOVERNOR
PRESSURE
TAKE-OFF PLUG
NEUTRAL STARTER SWITCH
K I C K D O W N BAND ADJUSTING SCREW
LINE PRESSURE TAKE-OFF PLUG 5 6 x 684C
Fig. 22—Transmission Case
(Left Side of Transmission)
NOTE: To compensate for initial wear-in, the adjustment of a new band must be ^4 turn tighter than the specification given.
Holding adjusting screw, tighten locknut to
35-40 foot-pounds torque.
16. THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
(REFER TO FIG. 21)
(FOUR BARREL CARBURETOR)
With the engine at operating temperature and carburetor off the idle cam, adjust idle speed to 475-500 R.P.M. (use tachometer).
Loosen the throttle linkage adjusting nuts on the carburetor to bell crank rod, and on the bell crank to transmission rod. Adjust carburetor to bell crank rod to position the lever
Y> inch from the cowl dash panel (see "A"
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—35
56x697
Fig. 23—Checking Line Pressure
Fig. 21) and tighten adjusting nut. Check that proper bell crank to transmission rod has been installed. Dimension "B" (Fig. 21) should 8% inches. Hold slight preload rearward on bell crank to transmission rod while holding the transmission throttle valve lever forward against the stop, and tighten adjusting nut.
The accelerator pedal should be at an angle of 115 degrees (see "C" Fig. 21) to the horizontal. If necessary to correct, adjust pedal angle by removing the accelerator pedal end of the bell crank to pedal rod, and shortening or lengthening the rod by loosening the lock nut at the swivel end and rotating swivel. Reinstall the rod and tighten the locknut.
NOTE: Be sure rod is properly aligned to prevent binding.
TWO BARREL CARBURETOR
All operations are the same as the four bar-
Fig. 24—Checking Governor Pressure rel, except that, since there is no intermediate throttle control assembly, adjustment is made on the bellcrank to carburetor rod.
17. HYDRAULIC CONTROL PRESSURE
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS a. Line Pressure
NOTE: Line pressure adjustment must be made in D (drive) position with engine at 1200 R.P.
M. and wheels free to turn. Oil must be at operating temperature (150° F.-200
0
F.).
Remove the pipe plug from the line pressure take-off hole located on the left side of the transmission case (Fig. 22). Install gauge, Tool
C-2393 (300 psi.) at this point (Fig. 23).
If line pressure is not correct, it may be adjusted by loosening the lock nut on the adjusting screw (Fig. 22) and turning screw clockwise to increase or counterclockwise to decrease
Push Button
Position
R
N
D
2
1
LINE PRESSURE CHART
Rear Wheels
Free to Turn
Free to Turn
Free to Turn
Free to Turn
Engine Speed
(RPM)
1600
1200
1200
1200
1200
Line Pressure
(PSI)
200-240
85 95
85-91
85-95
85-95
MyMopar.com
36—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
line pressure. All line pressure adjustments should fall within the limits specified in the table shown for all other push button positions.
b. Governor Pressure (Refer to Fig. 24)
Remove the pipe plug from the governor pressure take-off hole located on the lower left side of the output shaft support (Fig. 22). Install gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 psi.).
c. Lubrication Pressure
Remove the pipe plug (or oil cooler fitting) from the lubrication pressure take-off hole located on the left side of the transmission case
(Fig. 22). Install gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 psi.) at this point. With engine running at 800 rpm.
in neutral, lubrication pressure should be approximately 10 to 30 psi.
If the pressure is extremely high (above 50 psi.), it is a good indication that there is a restriction due to dirt or foreign matter in the lubrication passages.
d. Checking Throttle (Compensated) Pressure
Raise the vehicle off the floor (rear wheels free to turn). Install gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 psi.)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL at throttle pressure take-off plug. Refer to Fig.
22. Disconnect the bellcrank to transmission throttle linkage at the transmission. Start the engine, and place the transmission in D (drive) position. While holding the transmission throttle lever toward the closed throttle position
(against the internal stop) increase engine speed slowly (using accelerator pedal or suitable throttle control fixture) to approximately
1500 rpm. to obtain an upshift into direct ratio.
After the shift takes place compensated throttle pressure should read 26 to 32 psi. As throttle lever (at transmission) is advanced toward full throttle, compensated throttle pressure should begin to rise after 0° to 5° movement.
If compensated throttle pressure rises immediately when the lever is moved, or if the pressure is incorrect or fails to rise after approximately 5° movement, install a new valve body.
Before stopping the engine, advance the throttle control lever (at transmission) slowly and then return to closed throttle. Compensated throttle pressure should rise to approximately
80 to 90 psi. and then fall smoothly without hesitation and should always return to a consistent reading at closed throttle. Failure to do this indicates faulty throttle compensator valve or throttle valve operation.
GOVERNOR PRESSURE CHART
(NOTE: WHEELS MUST BE FREE TO TURN)
Push
Button
Position
1
2
D
Governor
Pressure
(PSI)
15
45
75
LC-1, 2, 3 LC-1, 2, 3
2.93-1
19-21
34-41
71-77
3.18-1
17-19
32-39
66-71
LC-1, 2, 3 LY-1 1
AXLE RATIOS
3.36-1
16-18
29-36
63-67
2.93-1
19-21
36-43
74-80
LY-1
3.18-1
18-20
33-40
68-74
LY-1
3.36-1
17-19
31-37
64-70
SERVICING THE GEARSHIFT CONTROL UNIT
18. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION a. Removal
Disconnect one of the cables at the battery. At rear of instrument panel, disconnect back-up light switch, starting motor switch, and illuminating lamp leads. Remove the two small screws from face plate (Fig. 25) to expose two of the bezel retaining screws. Remove the three screws securing bezel to plate and instrument panel
(Fig. 25). (Two on front face of bezel—one at bottom edge of bezel.)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CAUTION
Do not attempt to remove face plate and bezel as an assembly as damage to plate casting may occur.
Remove screws (Fig. 25) which retain gearshift housing and plate assembly to instrument panel.
NOTE: Loosening the two trim moulding screws will aid in removal of plate assembly.
Pull gearshift housing and plate assembly straight out and partially downward from instrument panel to expose control cable and cable bracket.
NOTE: If unit is equipped with back-up light switch, use care during removal of unit, to avoid damaging switch.
Withdraw push buttons from their respective slides. Remove nuts (Fig. 25) securing gearshift housing to plate. Withdraw plate from gearshift housing. Remove hairpin clip (Fig.
25) securing control cable to actuator. Remove the two screws holding cable and cable bracket assembly housing (Fig. 25) and remove cable assembly from gearshift housing. Remove back-
CABLE
BRACKET
CABLE
ASSY.
ACTUATOR" HAIRPIN CLIP 56x55A
(Top View)
HOUSING TO PLATE
ATTACHING SCREW
NUT-2 ^
^ . PLATE
BEZEL
ATTACHING
P U S H
SCREW (2)
ILLUMINATING LAMP
FACE PLATE
ATTACHING
S C R B V - ^
BACK UP
LIGHT
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
BEZEL TO PLATE
ATTACHING
\l\l ^ ^ " \ 5CREW-1
BEZEL A H A C H I N G
FAC?PIATE SCREW-4
(Bottom View)
PLATE TO PANEL
ATTACHING
SCREWS-3
58x734
Fig. 25—Gearshift Control Housing and Plate Assembly
Control Cable Attached
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—37
up light switch by bending the tabs straight with a screwdriver. The starting motor switch is removed by drilling out the rivets. Remove housing to plate support bracket by removing screws at bottom of plate.
On Imperial models, remove faceplate to expose the two gearshift housing to support retaining nuts. Remove nuts and pull gearshift housing rearward and down from back of instrument panel. Disconnect back-up light switch and starting motor switch leads.
NOTE: Illuminating lamp bulb and light conductor (Fig. 26) are fastened to the gearshift housing support bracket and need not be removed with the housing.
b. Installation
Reinstall all switches that were removed from the gearshift housing.
Install end of control cable to actuator and install hairpin clip (Fig. 25). Place cable and bracket in position on gearshift housing, install the two screws and tighten securely.
Place gearshift housing in position on plate and secure to plate with the two retaining nuts
(Fig. 25). Carefully guide plate and housing assembly into position in instrument panel and secure with screws (Fig. 25). Install push buttons on their respective slides.
NOTE: If gearshift housing is equipped with back-up light switch, exercise care during installation of housing to prevent damage to switch.
Reconnect all switch and lamp leads. Install face plate and bezel (Fig. 25). Test operation of unit.
On Imperial models (after reinstalling backup light and starting motor switches—if removed) install cable and bracket on gearshift housing. Install push buttons (if removed) and install gearshift housing to support bracket at rear of instrument panel. Secure with the two retaining nuts, then replace face plates. Test operation of unit.
19. REPLACING ILLUMINATING BULB
Remove screws from face plate and remove face plate to expose two of the bezel retaining screws
(Fig. 25). Remove bezel, then remove one or more push buttons for clearance.
MyMopar.com
38—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CONTROL CABLE HOUSING
THROTTLE CONTROL ROD
MANUAL CONTROL CABLE
Fig. 26—Illuminating Lamp Bulb I n s t a l l a t i o n -
Imperial Models
[56x675
Fig. 27—Releasing Manual Control Cable Spring Lock
Using Tool C-3399, remove bulb.
NOTE: If Tool C-3399 is not available, remove as many push buttons as are necessary for clearance, then, using a piece of cloth (to protect fingers in case of bulb breakage) remove the bulb.
Replace face plate and bezel and test operation of unit.
26.
On Imperial models, the bulb and socket are positioned in the light conductor, as shown in
Figure 26. It is necessary, therefore, to reach behind the instrument panel to remove the bulb and socket. After replacing bulb, snap socket into light conductor as shown in Figure
20. REPLACING BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH
AND STARTER SWITCH
The back-up light switch is mounted on the left side of the push button housing. Remove housing, as outlined in Paragraph 18. Use a long, narrow-blade screwdriver to straighten the four tabs that hold the switch. Place replacement switch in position on housing and bend over the four tabs. Replace housing, as outlined in Paragraph 18.
To replace the starter switch, first remove housing, as outlined in Paragraph 18. Drill out the two rivets holding the switch to the flange.
The switch replacement kit consists of the switch and two soft tubular rivets. Install switch on flange and check clearance between end of N (neutral) push button slide and end of switch plunger. Bend the flange, on which switch is mounted, to obtain .010 to .015 inch clearance. Reinstall housing as outlined in
Paragraph 18.
21. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
CONTROL CABLE (TRANSMISSION END) a. Removal
Engage the 1 (low) button to place cable adapter spring lock in line with control cable adapter plug hold in transmission case.
Remove cable adjustable mounting bracket on transmission. Remove cable adapter housing plug, insert screwdriver through hole. While exerting pressure against cable lock, spring, withdraw cable as shown in Figure 27.
b. Installation
Remove neutral starting switch (Fig. 22) from transmission case. Place manual valve lever in
LOW detent. Hold the R (reverse) push button in at full travel. Insert cable assembly into its adapter in the control cable housing engaging groove in cable end with lock spring. Move cable in and out to make certain cable is securely locked in lock spring. Adjust cable!
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—39
SERVICING OF COMPONENT PARTS WITH
TRANSMISSION IN VEHICLE
22. SPEEDOMETER PINION a. Removal
Disconnect speedometer cable and housing from drive pinion and sleeve assembly. Remove speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly from transmission extension. Refer to Page 87 for
Speedometer Pinion Usage Chart.
screw and lock nut, gasket, cup, spring and sleeve. Using a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod (%2
/r
) inserted in end of valve, remove valve (Fig. 28).
b. Installation b. Installation
Install speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly in transmission extension and tighten to specifications.
With the assistance of the retrieving tool, place valve in position and seat properly in regulator valve body. Install regulator valve spring, sleeve, cup, gasket, adjusting screw and lock nut and tighten to specifications. Check line pressure and adjust if necessary.
23. NEUTRAL STARTING SWITCH a. Removal
25. TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL
VALVE ASSEMBLY
Drain approximately two quarts of fluid from transmission by disconnecting filler tube at oil pan connector, (may be necessary to loosen filler tube support bracket screw). Remove wire at switch. Remove switch.
a. Removal
Remove the torque converter control valve spring retainer (Fig. 22) gasket and spring.
Using a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod (Vs") inserted in end of valve, remove valve.
b. Installation
Refer to P a r a g r a p h 14.
24. TRANSMISSION REGULATOR
VALVE ASSEMBLY a. Removal
Remove transmission regulator valve adjusting b. Installation
With the assistance of the retrieving tool, place valve in position and seat properly in regulator valve body. Install torque converter control valve spring, gasket, and retainer, and tighten to specifications.
TRANSMISSION REGULATOR
VALVE
26. OIL PAN a. Removal
Drain transmission by disconnecting filler tube connector at oil pan. (It may be necessary to loosen filler tube support bracket screw.) Remove the oil pan screws and washers, and remove the oil pan and gasket from transmission case.
PIECE OF WELDING ROD
Fig. 28—Typical View—Showing Method of Removing Regulator Valve
5 3 x 5 5 b. Installation
Using a new oil pan gasket, place oil pan into position on transmission case. Install oil pan screws and washers drawing them down evenly and tighten to specifications. Install oil pan filler tube, and tighten nut connector to specifications. Tighten support bracket screw. Refill transmission with Automatic Transmission
Fluid (Type A). Refer to Lubrication Section.
MyMopar.com
40—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
27. VALVE BODIES AND TRANSFER
PLATE ASSEMBLY a. Removal
Place push button control unit in 1 (low) position.
NOTE; It will be necessary for control cable adapter to be in this position (for accessibility) when removing cable from adapter housing on transmission.
Remove oil pan. Disconnect throttle link from throttle lever on transmission. Remove all dirt and foreign material from around control cable housing. Loosen throttle valve lever screw and remove lever assembly. Remove flat washer and lip seal from throttle valve lever shaft. Remove control cable adjustable mounting bracket. Remove control cable adapter housing plug, insert screw driver through hole, and release the control cable spring lock. While exerting pressure on control cable spring lock, remove cable (Fig.
27). Using same screw driver, insert through cable opening in adapter housing and push lever rearward to last detent. Reinstall housing plug and tighten.
Remove the three control cable housing screws and washers. Remove control cable housing and gasket. Loosen manual valve control lever screw and slide lever off shaft. Remove the four oil strainer assembly screws and washers and remove oil strainer assembly.
Loosen (to relieve spring load) and remove the three accumulator cover screws with washers.
VALVE BODIES A N D
TRANSFER PLATE
ASSEMBLIES x660A
Fig. 29—Removal and Installation of Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CONTROL CABLE ADAPTER^
Q ; 4 M ^ p . S P R I N G LOCK
"
L
"^MANUAL VALVE
56x658
Fig. 30—Setting Manual Valve Control
Lever Clearance
Remove cover and spring from transfer plate.
Remove the three transfer plate screws and washers and remove valve bodies and transfer plate assembly from transmission case (Fig.
29).
b. Installation
Clean mating surfaces and check for burrs on both the transmission case and valve body transfer plate. Install valve bodies and transfer plate assembly on transmission case. Install the three transfer plate screws and washers (two in center and one on front). Draw down evenly and tighten to specifications.
CAUTION
Dished type washers are used to prevent cutting or chipping of soft metals and should be installed on screws with dished portion facing away from head.
Install accumulator spring through transfer plate and position in piston. Install accumulator cover, three screws, and washers; draw down evenly. Place oil strainer in position on transfer plate assembly. Install the four screws and washers. Draw down evenly and tighten strainer and accumulator cover screws to specifications. Install oil pan. Install manual valve control lever (locking screw to rear) on manual valve lever shaft. Position lever on shaft so there is %
2
" clearance (without gasket) between lever and transmission case.
NOTE: a 7/32" drill bit can be used for obtain-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 3 1 — Removal and Installation of Kickdown
Piston (Typical View) ing proper clearance (Fig. 3 0 ) . Tighten locking screw securely.
If control cable adapter has been removed from manual valve control lever, reinstall by positioning in lever (end of spring lock up), and installing pin. Place manual valve control lever in reverse position (last detent to rear) and install gasket, control cable housing, and screws and washers. Draw down evenly and tighten to specifications. Install lip seal, flat washer, and throttle lever control assembly.
Tighten clamping bolt.
Connect throttle linkage to throttle lever on transmission. Install control cable in housing and adapter making sure spring lock engages cable. Replace cable adjustable mounting bracket. Adjust manual control cable. Refer to 'Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests', Paragraph
13. Refill transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Adjust throttle linkage. Refer to "Throttle Linkage Adjustments",
Paragraph 16.
28. KICKDOWN PISTON a. Removed
Remove valve bodies and transfer plate assembly. Loosen kickdown band adjusting screw lock nut and back adjusting screw out sufficiently to remove anchor. Remove kickdown band strut. Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289, (modified as shown in Fig. 60), apply sufficient pressure on the kickdown piston rod guide, and remove the snap ring. Loosen compression portion of tool and remove piston rod guide, piston spring,
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—41
and piston rod. Using C-484 pliers, remove the kickdown piston from transmission case (Fig.
31). Refer to "Kickdown Piston Inspection"
Paragraph 92.
b. Instcdlcrtion
Lubricate piston rings and place kickdown piston assembly into position, compress outer ring, and start assembly into case. With piston properly centered so not to damage rings, tap lightly and bottom piston into transmission case. Slide piston spring over kickdown piston rod assembly and install in piston. While holding in position, install the kickdown piston rod guide assembly on kickdown piston rod.
Using Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified) compress the kickdown piston spring to the point that piston guide seal ring slightly binds on transmission case. Work seal ring into position and gradually compress spring until seal ring enters case and snap ring can be installed. Install kickdown piston rod guide snap ring, making sure it is properly seated. Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove tool from transmission case. Place kickdown band strut in position in band and lever, and compress band end sufficiently to install anchor over adjusting screw. Adjust kickdown band as outlined under "Maintenance, Adjustments and
Tests", Paragraph 15. Install valve bodies and transfer plate assembly.
29. ACCUMULATOR PISTON a. Removal
Fig. 32—Removal and Installation of Accumulator
Piston (Typical View)
MyMopar.com
42—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
Remove valve bodies and transfer plate assemblies. Using Tool C-484, remove accumulator piston from transmission case, as shown in
Figure 32. Refer to "Accumulator Piston—
Inspection", as outlined in Paragraph 93.
b. Installation
Lubricate seal rings and place accumulator piston into position. Compress outer seal ring and tap lightly into transmission case. Install valve bodies and transfer plate assemblies.
30. TRANSMISSION OUTPUT SHAFT REAR
BEARING OIL SEAL a. Removal
Disconnect the front universal joint and secure propeller shaft out of the way. Apply the hand brake or use wrench Tool C-3281 (Fig. 42) and remove the propeller shaft flange nut and washer. Release hand brake and install puller, Tool
C-452 (if necessary). Remove the propeller shaft flange and brake drum assembly. Remove the transmission brake support grease shield spring (small spring). Remove brake support grease shield from extension.
CAUTION
If screw driver or sharp instrument is used in performing this operation, care must be exercised not to damage the neoprene sealing surface at bottom of shield.
Install puller, Tool C-748 and remove the transmission output shaft rear bearing oil seal.
b. Installation
Using driver, Tool C-3205, install output shaft rear bearing oil seal (metal portion of seal facing in) until driver bottoms on extensions,
(Fig. 72). Install brake support grease shield on extension housing.
CAUTION
Indent on grease shield must match groove in extension for correct positioning. Also, shield must be located on extension far enough to permit installation of spring.
Install brake support grease shield spring
(opening in spring toward adjusting sleeve).
Make sure spring is properly seated in groove.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Install propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. Install propeller shaft flange washer (convex side towards nut) and nut. Apply hand brake or use wrench Tool C-3281, and tighten propeller shaft flange nut to specifications.
Connect front universal joint and tighten nuts to specifications.
Refill transmission (if necessary) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) to proper level.
31. EXTENSION a. Removal
Raise vehicle off floor. Drain approximately two quarts of fluid from transmission. Disconnect front universal joint and secure propeller shaft out of the way. Apply hand brake or use
Tool C-3281, and remove propeller shaft nut and washer.
Release hand brake and using puller, Tool
C-452 (if necessary), remove the propeller shaft flange and drum assembly.
Remove brake adjusting screw cover plate and loosen cable clamp bolt on hand brake support. Disengage the ball end of the cable from operating lever and remove cable from brake support. Disconnect speedometer cable and housing at transmission extension and remove speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly.
Remove nuts and lockwashers that hold engine rear support insulator to crossmember, leaving insulator attached to extension housing.
Using suitable jack (or engine support fixture Tool C-3487) raise transmission sufficiently to allow output shaft support to clear crossmember. Remove four of the remaining extension to case screws and lockwashers and install guide studs, Tool C-3283. Due to interference of the insulator, it will be necessary to remove the bottom extension to case screw with the extension. That is, back screw out as far as possible and slide extension back and continue loosening of screw.
CAUTION
Do not remove the one output shaft support to transmission case screw.
Remove extension and hand brake as one assembly. If care is used, it is not necessary to
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL remove hand brake support and shoe assemblies from extension to replace output shaft rear bearing.
b. Installation
With guide studs, Tool C-3283 installed in transmission case, install a new extension gasket over guide studs and into position against output shaft support. Do not use sealing material on gasket. Using extreme care, place extension and hand brake assembly over output shaft and on guide studs. Due to interference of the insulator, it will be necessary to start the bottom extension to case screw as the extension is pushed into position against support.
Do not use hammer or attempt to pull extension in with the aid of screws: otherwise, damage to extension may result. The propeller shaft flange and drum assembly may be used to force bearing in extension on output shaft.
Remove guide studs, Tool C-3283 and install six remaining extension to case screws and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten to Data and Specifications. After screws have been properly tightened, turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. Lower transmission and at the same time align mounting studs in insulator with holes in crossmember. Install nuts and lockwashers and tighten to specifications. Engage ball end of hand brake cable in operating lever and tighten cable clamp bolt.
Install propeller shaft flange and drum assembly, washer, and nut. Apply hand brake or using Tool C-3281 to hold flange, tighten nut to Data and Specifications. Install adjusting screw cover plate on hand brake support.
Connect front universal joint and tighten to specifications. Install speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly. Tighten to specifications and connect speedometer cable and housing. Lower vehicle and refill transmission to proper level with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A).
Refer to Lubrication Section.
32. GOVERNOR a. Removal
Remove governor locating screw from goverscrew driver, remove the governor valve shaft snap ring from the weight assembly end. Remove governor valve shaft and valve from governor body assembly (Fig. 33).
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—43
GOVERNOR VALVE
AND SHAFT
SUPPORT TO TRANSMISSION CASE SCREW-;
• ^ ^ ; n m , *'56x664^
Fig. 33—Removal and Installation of Governor
Valve Shaft and Valve
Using Tool C-3229, remove governor weight assembly snap ring (large) and remove governor weight assembly from governor body.
The primary cause of governor operating failures is due to improper operation of governor valve which may be sticking in housing or travel restricted by chips or other foreign matter. If inspection reveals necessity for further governor servicing, then remove governor support locating screw, and remove governor and support assembly from rear oil pump hous-
VERNOR BODY AND SUPPORT
Fig. 34—Removal and Installation of Governor Body and Support Assembly
MyMopar.com
44—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
ing (Fig. 34). Normal servicing does not require removal of the governor body from the governor support. If condition warrants removal of governor body from governor support, when reassembling do not tighten governor body screws until governor body support is located on output shaft.
b. Installation
Slide governor body and support assembly into position in rear oil pump housing. Using extreme care, compress governor support seal rings as support enters oil pump housing. Do not force. Align locating hole in output shaft to locating hole in governor support and install screw and tighten to specifications. Holes can be aligned by turning output shaft and holding governor body. If governor body has been removed and reinstalled tighten the four governor body screws to specifications. Place governor weight assembly (secondary weight snap ring facing out) into governor body; and using
Tool C-3229, install snap ring. Make sure snap ring seats properly. With governor valve (small end in) on governor valve shaft, slide shaft into governor body through output shaft and governor weight assembly, at the same time, position valve into body.
Install the governor valve shaft snap ring.
Make sure it is locked securely to shaft. Replace snap ring if distorted. After snap ring installation, apply sufficient pressure to both ends of the valve shaft to force snap rings to outer portion of snap ring grooves. (Fig. 100).
Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in body. Install transmission extension.
33. REAR OIL PUMP a. Removal
Remove transmission extension (Paragraph
31). Refer to "Governor—Removal", Paragraph 32. Using a screw driver, remove the governor valve shaft snap ring from weight assembly end. Remove governor valve shaft and valve from governor valve body assembly.
Using Tool C-3229, remove governor weight assembly snap ring (large one) and remove governor weight assembly from governor body.
Remove governor locating screw from governor support. Remove the five rear oil pump
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL housing to output shaft support screws and washers and install guide studs, Tool C-3288.
Remove pump housing, gear, and governor assembly from output shaft. Use dye and mark pump gears in relation to pump housing face.
Do not use scribe. Oil pump pinion is keyed to output shaft pinion by small ball. Use care when removing pinion so as not to lose ball.
Remove governor assembly from oil pump housing.
NOTE: If output shaft is turned to a position where governor locating screw hole is up, when removing rear pump pinion, pump drive ball will also be up, preventing ball from falling out.
b. Installation
Slide governor support and body assembly into position in rear oil pump housing. Compress governor support seal rings as support enters oil pump housing. Do not force.
Place rear oil pump pinion ball in ball pocket in output shaft. Place rear oil pump pinion
(as marked when removed) over output shaft and into position aligning keyway in pinion with ball in shaft.
With rear oil pump gear properly positioned in pump housing (check marking), slide rear oil pump and governor assemblies over output shaft and guide studs into position against support.
CAUTION
There are two extra holes in housing which are used for vents. Make definitely sure you do not attempt to install screws in these holes.
Remove guide studs and install the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support screws and washers.
CAUTION
Dished washers are used to prevent cutting of soft metals and should be installed on screws with dished portion facing away from head.
Draw down evenly and tighten to specifications.
After screws have been properly tightened, turn output shaft to make sure pump gears are free to rotate. If not, remove pump to determine cause.
Align locating hole in output shaft to locating screw hole in governor support; install locating screw, and tighten to specifications. Holes can
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL be easily aligned by turning output shaft and holding governor body.
Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in body. Install transmission extension.
34. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF TRANSMISSION a. Removal
Disconnect battery. Engage 1 (low) push button and raise vehicle off floor.
NOTE: It is necessary for control to be in this position to remove cable from adapter housing on transmission.
Drain transmission and torque converter.
(Refer to Lubrication Section.) When fluid has drained, replace torque converter drain plug and tighten. Disconnect the front universal joint and secure propeller shaft out of the way.
Remove brake adjusting screw cover plate and loosen cable clamp bolt on hand brake support.
Disengage the ball end of the cable from the operating lever and remove cable from brake support. Disconnect speedometer cable and housing at transmission extension. Disconnect neutral starting switch wire. Disconnect throttle valve control link from lever on transmission. Remove gearshift control cable as outlined in Paragraph 21.
If adapter housing is to be removed, insert screwdriver through cable opening in adapter housing and push lever rearward to last detent.
Remove transmission oil cooling lines from transmission. Remove nuts and lockwashers that hold the engine rear support insulator to the crossmember. Leave insulator attached to transmission.
Install engine support fixture, Tool C-3487
(may be necessary to remove starter to provide clearance for support ends of support fixture). Insert hooks of fixture firmly into holes in side of frame member with support ends up against the underside of oil pan flange. Adjust fixture to support the weight of the engine.
Raise engine slightly, remove crossmember to torsion bar bracket bolts and remove crossmember.
CAUTION
When using fixture Tool C-3487, do not lower
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—45 engine more than three inches from floor pan to avoid disrupting the set position of water hose, and other engine attachments.
Remove the two transmission case to torque converter housing screws and lockwashers from right side of transmission and install guide studs, Tool C-3276. With transmission supported by a suitable jack, remove the two transmission case to torque converter housing screws and lockwashers from left side. Slide transmission straight back to avoid damage to front oil pump driving sleeve before lowering transmission.
b. Installation
Install guide studs, Tool C-3276 in the two transmission mounting holes in right side of torque converter housing. With front oil pump drive sleeve lubricated, install, making sure driving lugs are properly engaged with oil pump pinion. Main portion of drive sleeve will be flush with front of pump housing when properly installed (Fig. 9 5 ) .
Note position of driving lugs inside torque converter hub, then position front oil pump drive sleeve on transmission accordingly, to aid in proper engagement when transmission is installed. Slide transmission over guide studs and into position and against converter housing. Make sure driving lugs on front oil pump drive sleeve properly engage the torque converter. To avoid damage to front oil pump, do not attempt to use transmission to torque converter housing screws to bring transmission and housing together. If oil pump drive sleeve and input shaft have been properly aligned, the transmission should slide into position relatively easy. DO NOT FORCE.
Install two transmission case to torque converter housing screws and lockwashers in left side, do not tighten. Remove guide studs and install the two transmission case to housing screws and lockwashers in right side, then draw the four down evenly and tighten to specifications.
Place crossmember into position and install the crossmember to torsion bar bracket bolts.
Tighten to specifications. Lower engine and at the same time align mounting studs in insulator with holes in crossmember.
Install nuts and lockwashers that hold en-
MyMopar.com
46—TORQUE-FLUE TRANSMISSION
gine rear support insulator to crossmember and tighten to specifications. Remove support fixture, Tool C-3487 from side of frame member. Connect oil cooling lines. Connect neutral starting switch wire to switch. Install oil pan filler tube and tighten filler tube nut to specifications. Tighten support bracket screw. Connect speedometer cable in housing etxension.
Engage ball end of hand brake cable in operating lever and tighten cable clamp bolt. Install adjusting brake screw cover plate on hand brake support. Connect front universal joint and tighten nuts to 37 foot-pounds torque. Install starter (if removed).
Connect throttle control linkage to throttle lever on transmission. Install push button control cable in adapter making sure spring lock engages cable. Adjust manual control cable. Refer to "Maintenance Adjustments and
Tests." Paragraph 13. Tighten cable adjustable mounting bracket nut securely. Lower vehicle and connect battery. Refill transmission with
Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Adjust throttle linkage (Paragraph 16).
RECONDITIONING OF TRANSMISSION
NOTE: In the event that a transmission has failed any part, it will be necessary to flush the torque converter to insure that fine metallic particles are not later transferred into the transmission controls. Refer to Torque Converter section for instructions outlining this operation.
35. PRECAUTIONS TO OBSERVE
DURING DISASSEMBLY
The following precautions should be observed during disassembly of transmission: Cleanliness through the entire disassembly and assembly cannot be over-emphasized. Unit should be thoroughly cleaned when removed from vehicle, preferably by steam. When disassembling, each part should be placed in a suitable solvent, washed, then dried by compressed air.
Do not wipe parts with shop towels. All of the mating surfaces in the transmission are accurately machined; therefore, careful handling of parts must be exercised to avoid nicks or burrs.
The use of crocus cloth is permissible where necessary, providing it is used carefully. When used on valves, use extreme care so not to
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL round off the sharp edges. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type valve.
Sharp edges prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and body, thus reducing the possibilities of sticking. When it becomes necessary to recondition the transmission, and vehicle has accumulated considerable mileage, install new seal rings on parts requiring their usage.
STAND—TOOL
56x600
Fig. 35—Transmission Assembly Inverted in Stand
NOTE: The following procedures are based on the assumption that the transmission fluid has been drained, the unit has been removed from vehicle and prepared for disassembly.
36. OIL PAN—REMOVAL
Place transmission assembly in stand, Tool C-
3280, and invert, as shown in Figure 35 remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan and gasket, as shown in Figure 36. Note the construction of oil pan bolts, washers used are part of the bolt.
LOW AND REVERSE SERVO ACCUMULATOR COVER
OIL STRAINER / KICKDOWN SERVO
VALVE BODIES AND TRANSFER
PLATE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 36—Transmission Assembly—Oil Pan Removed
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CONTROL CABLE
ADAPTER
HOUSING
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—47
ACCUMULATOR COVER
-SPRING
MANUAL VAL
CONTROL LEVE
56x601
Fig. 37—Removal and Installation of Control
Cable Adapter Housing
37. VALVE BODIES AND TRANSFER
PLATE—REMOVAL
Remove throttle valve lever, flat washer, and lip seal. Remove the three gearshift control cable adapter housing bolts and washers. Remove housing and gasket from transmission, as shown in Figure 37. Manual valve control lever must be moved to the reverse position before housing can be removed. Loosen manual valve control lever bolt. Using caution to prevent loss of cable adapter pin, slide lever and cable adapter off shaft.
Remove four oil strainer assembly bolts and lock washers. Remove oil strainer assembly, as shown in Figure 38. Loosen (to relieve spring load) the three accumulator cover bolts with washers, and remove cover and spring from transfer plate, as shown in Figure 39.
Remove three transfer plate bolts and washers.
Remove valve bodies and transfer plate assembly from transmission case, as shown in Figure 40. Mating surfaces are machined: use extreme care so as not to damage these surfaces.
Place valve body in stand, Tool C-3528. Remove the neutral starting switch (with cupped wash-
OIL STRAINER
Fig. 39—Removal and Installation of Accumulator Cover er and " 0 " ring) located in left side of transmission case as shown in Figure 22. ;
38. CHECKING FRONT CLUTCH
END CLEARANCE
Prior to removal of propeller shaft flange and drum assembly, check end clearance of front clutch piston retainer assembly using dial indicator Tool C-3339, as shown in Figure 41.
To make this check, move front clutch forward by pulling on the input shaft, or by carefully inserting screw driver and prying between the front and rear clutches. Remove screw driver, and with dial indicator point contacting edge of front clutch retainer, set dial indicator to zero. Push clutch assembly
57x233
Fig. 38—Removing Oil Strainer Assembly
56x604
Fig. 40—Removal and Installation of Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly (Typical View)
MyMopar.com
48—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
TOOL FRONT CLUTCH
PISTON RETAINER
ASSEMBLY
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REAR CLUTCH PISTON
RETAINER ASSEMBLY'
Fig. 41—Checking Front Clutch Piston Retainer
Assembly End Clearance rearward against rear clutch, and take indicator reading. This clearance should be from .020
to .050 inch. If this clearance exceeds the specified limits, particular attention should be paid to the condition of the input shaft thrust washer when disassembling transmission.
39. HAND BRAKE ASSEMBLY—REMOVAL
Remove the transmission flange nut and washer. Use wrench, Tool C-3281, to hold brake drum and flange assembly, (Fig. 42). Attach puller, Tool C-452 (if necessary) and remove propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. Inspect oil seal surfaces. Inspect lining contact surfaces on brake drum assembly for scoring and inspect brake lining for wear.
Remove transmission brake support grease shield spring. This spring has two purposes, it acts as a guide for the brake shoes and retains the brake support grease shield to the transmission extension. Remove the brake support grease shield from extension. If a screw driver or sharp instrument is used in removing this shield, care must be exercised not to dam-
5 3 x 6 0
Fig. 43—Removal and Installation of Speedometer
Drive Pinion Assembly age the neoprene sealing surface at bottom of shield. Note the indent on grease shield for correct positioning on extension.
Using a suitable drift, remove pin which secures brake shoe anchor in extension housing. Slide balance of handbrake assembly intact from extension housing. Inspect spacer
(neoprene) on back of support plate for deterioration and note the steel sleeve used between neoprene spacer and extension.
40. TRANSMISSION EXTENSION—REMOVAL
Remove speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly, as shown in Figure 43. Nylon gear can be easily damaged if extension is removed without first removing the speedometer drive
TOOL
57x98
Fig. 42—Removing Handbrake Drum and Flange
(Assembly Nut) Fig. 44—Removal of Extension
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—49
156x6071
Fig. 45—Removal and Installation of Governor
Valve Shaft Snap Ring pinion and sleeve assembly. Inspect the output shaft rear bearing oil seal and remove (if necessary) using puller, Tool C-748. Remove the seven transmission extension to case bolts and lockwashers. Install guide studs, Tool C-3283 and remove extension from output shaft support assembly by tapping housing lightly with a soft hammer. Housing may be separated by using a pry bar against support screw, as shown in Figure 44. Remove extension gasket.
41. GOVERNOR AND REAR OIL PUMP
HOUSING—REMOVAL
Using a small screw driver, remove the governor valve shaft snap ring from the weight assembly end as shown in Figure 45.
Remove governor valve shaft and valve from
GOVERNOR
LOCATING SCREW
56x609
Fig. 47—Removal and Installation of Governor
Weight Assembly
56x610
Fig. 48—Removal and Installation of Governor
Weight Assembly
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT SCREW
GOVERNOR VALVE
56x608
Fig. 46—Removal and Installation of Governor Valve and Shaft
OUTPUT SHAFT
GOVERNOR AND REAR OIL
PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLIES
56x611
Fig. 49—Removal and Installation of Governor and Rear Oil Pump Housing Assemblies
MyMopar.com
50—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
•REAR OIL PUMP PINION BALL
REAR OIL PUMP PINION KEYWAY
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNIT NO. 1
OIL PUMP PINION
53x35
Fig. 50—Removal and Installation of Rear
Oil Pump Pinion governor valve body assembly, as shown in
Figure 46. Using pliers, Tool C-3229, remove governor weight assembly snap ring (large), as shown in Figure 47, and remove governor weight assembly from governor body (Fig. 48).
Remove governor locating screw from the governor support. Remove the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support bolts and washers. Remove pump housing, gear, and governor assembly from output shaft, as shown in Figure 49. Use dye and mark face of pump gear in relation to pump housing.
Do not use scribe. Oil pump pinion is keyed to output shaft by a small ball. Use care when removing pinion so as not to lose ball. Remove rear oil pump pinion from output shaft, as
56x613
Fig. 52—Removal and Installation of Unit No. 1 shown in Figure 50. Mark in the same manner as previously described.
42. OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT—REMOVAL
Remove output shaft support to transmission case screw and washer (Fig. 49). Slide the output shaft rear support assembly and gasket from transmission case, as shown in Figure
51. If rear support is stuck to transmission case, it can be loosened by tapping lightly with a soft hammer. Remove guide studs, Tool C-
3283 from transmission case.
43. REMOVING POWER TRAIN UNIT NO. 1
(OUTPUT SHAFT, KICKDOWN PLANET
PINION CARRIER, AND INTERMEDIATE
SHAFT ASSEMBLIES)
Remove by sliding unit out rear of transmission case (Fig. 52). Support unit as much as possible, when removing, to prevent damage to seal rings on intermediate shaft.
44. REMOVING POWER TRAIN UNIT NO. 2
(SUN GEAR, REVERSE PLANET PINION
CARRIER, OVERRUNNING CLUTCH, AND
REAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES)
Fig. 51—Removal and Installation of Output
Shaft Support
Fig. 53—Removal and Installation of Intermediate
Support Locating Screw
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNIT NO. 2
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—51
56x615
Fig. 54—Removal of Unit No. 2
Loosen lock nuts on low-reverse and kickdown band adjusting screws, and back adjusting screws out 2 to 3 turns. Remove the three intermediate support locating bolts and lockwashers (two outside of case and one inside). (Figs.
22 and 53). When removing unit, identify locating hole in the intermediate support to correspond with the hole in the case—for installation purposes. (Fig. 99.)
Keep unit centered as much as possible to prevent binding of intermediate support, and remove assembly from transmission case, as shown in Figure 54. Make sure front clutch and sun gear thrust washer remains in position in front of unit.
45. REMOVING UNIT NO. 3 (FRONT CLUTCH
PISTON RETAINER AND INPUT
SHAFT ASSEMBLIES)
£• .J£*P'.56x6}7
Fig. 56—Removal and Installation of Low-Reverse Band
Keep unit centered as much as possible, and remove from transmission case, as shown in
Figure 55. Use extreme care when removing to prevent damage to seal rings on input shaft and sealing surfaces in reaction shaft (aluminum).
46. LOW-REVERSE BAND ASSEMBLY-
REMOVAL
Mark the low-reverse band assembly for installation purposes; then compress ends of band sufficiently to remove the low-reverse band strut. (Strut grooved at one end to receive band.) Remove low-reverse/band assembly by rotating band ends through rear opening in transmission case, as shown in Figure
KICKDOWN BAND STRUT
56x616
Fig. 55—Removal and Installation of Unit No. 3
KICKDOWN BAN
ADJUSTING SCREWS
Fig. 57—Removal and Installation of Kickdown
Band Strut
MyMopar.com
52—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
USE IW32' DRILL
Fig. 58—Removal and Installation of Kickdown Band
56. Remove low-reverse band anchor from adjusting screw.
47. KICKDOWN BAND—REMOVAL
Compress kickdown band ends sufficiently to remove the kickdown band strut. (Fig. 57).
(Note that strut is grooved to act as a guide.)
Remove the kickdown band anchor from adjusting screw. Remove kickdown band assembly by rotating band ends over center support in transmission case, as shown in Figure 58.
Use extreme care when removing band so as not to damage lining against edges of transmission case. Both bands have bonded lining and no attempt should be made to reline them. The kickdown band is wider and has different lining material.
48. LOW-REVERSE AND KICKDOWN BAND
LEVER ASSEMBLIES—REMOVAL
Remove kickdown and reverse lever shaft stop plug at rear of transmission case. Using pliers,
L O W A N D REVERSE
BAND LEVER
KICKDOWN
BAND LEVER
Fig. 60—Modification of Tool C-3289
56x621 remove kickdown and low-reverse shaft lever spacer (flat). Thread a guide stud, Tool C-3288, into shaft, and remove shaft from case, as shown in Figure 59. Remove kickdown and low-reverse servo levers.
49. LOW-REVERSE SERVO—REMOVAL
Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified, as shown in Fig. 60) on transmission case and compress piston spring retainer. Due to modification of tool, only one attaching bolt can be used. Using a screw driver, remove the lowreverse servo piston spring retainer snap ring, as shown in Figure 61. Loosen compression portion of tool, and remove. Spring retainer may require guiding out of transmission case.
Remove the spring retainer, spring and servo piston and plug assembly.
IKICKDOWN AND
REVERSE
LEVER SHAFT
Fig. 59—Removal and Installation of Kickdown and Reverse Lever Shaft
Fig. 61—Removal and Installation of Low-Reverse Servo
56x622
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOOL
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—53
GASKET
CUP
SPRING
Fig. 62—Removal and Installation of Kickdown
Piston Rod Guide Snap Ring
50. KICKDOWN SERVO—REMOVAL
Reinstall Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified, as shown in Fig. 60), apply sufficient pressure on the kickdown piston rod guide, and remove the snap ring, as shown in Figure 62. Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove from transmission case. Remove piston rod guide, piston spring, and piston rod. Using pliers,
Tool C-484, remove the kickdown piston from the transmission case. Using pliers, Tool C-484, remove the accumulator piston from transmission case, as shown in Figure 63.
51. FRONT OIL PUMP—REMOVAL
Remove front oil pump drive sleeve (if installed). Remove the transmission regulator
Fig. 64—Removal and Installation of Regulator
Valve Retainer valve spring adjusting screw, locknut, gasket, cup, spring, sleeve and valve. (Figs. 64, 65, and
66). Remove the torque converter valve retainer, gasket, spring, and valve. These valves can be removed with the aid of a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod (%
2
inch for regulator valve and Vs inch for torque converter valve) inserted in end of valve, as shown in Figure 28. The converter valve is so
SLEEVE
SPRING
Fig. 65—Removal and Installation of Regulator
Valve Spring
SPRING SEAT
ADJUSTING SCREW
ACCUMULATOR
PISTON
Fig. 63—Removal and Installation of Accumulator Piston
VALVE
57x236
SLEEVE
SPRING
SPRING CUP
Fig. 66—Regulator Valve Assembly
(Disassembled View)
MyMopar.com
54—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
FRONT AND REAR
PUMP CHECK VALVE
TORQUE CONVERTER
CONTROL VALVE
FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING
56x627
Fig. 67—Removal of Front Oil Pump
Housing Assembly constructed that it will not drop into front housing during removal.
Remove the seven front oil pump housing to transmission case bolts and washers. Sealing washers, used under bolts, are made from aluminum; replace by new washers if damaged.
Remove oil pump housing assembly from transmission case by tapping housing lightly with a soft hammer, as shown in Figure* 67. Using dye, mark pump gears in relation to face of oil pump housing for reassembly purposes. DO
NOT SCRIBE.
52. REGULATOR VALVE BODY—REMOVAL
Install guide studs, Tool C-3288; and using the two threaded holes provided in the regulator valve body, install guide studs, Tool C-3283, as shown in Figure 68. Pull regulator valve body
56x651 ^»m^Z^^Z^^" REGULATOR VALVE
Fig. 69—Regulator Valve Body and Valves off of torque converter reaction shaft and remove gasket. Regulator valve body (Fig. 69) is made of aluminum and requires care in handling to avoid damage.
53. TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION
SHAFT—REMOVAL
Refer to "Inspection of Torque Converter Reaction. Shaft," Paragraph 55. If inspection reveals it is necessary to remove torque converter reaction shaft, proceed as follows: Remove torque converter reaction shaft seal ring (neoprene). Remove three transmission case to reaction shaft bolts and washers. Using Tool
C-3531*, press reaction shaft out of transmission case, as shown in Figure 70.
*Refer to "Special Tools".
*E§GyUTOR VALVE BODY;:J
Fig. 68—Removing Regulator Valve Body
Fig. 70—Removal and Installation of Torque Converter Reaction Shaft
56x629
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—55
DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION AND
ASSEMBLY OF COMPONENT PARTS
54. PRECAUTIONS TO OBSERVE DURING DIS-
ASSEMBLY, INSPECTION AND ASSEMBLY
OF COMPONENT PARTS
The following precautions should be observed during assembly of component parts. Where lubrication is required, use Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A ) . Do not use a sealing material on any gasket or mating surface, always use new gaskets. Torque all bolts and nuts to correct specifications. Where snap rings are used, always make sure they are seated properly. If mating parts do not go together properly, always check reason. Do not force.
55. TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION
SHAFT—INSPECTION
Inspect inside of torque converter reaction shaft for burrs. Inspect splines on shaft for burrs and wear. Inspect the reaction shaft seal ring
(neoprene) for deterioration and hardness. Inspect thrust surface for wear and slight scores.
Do not remove the torque converter reaction shaft unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so.
56. TRANSMISSION CASE—INSPECTION
Inspect transmission case for cracks, sand
C-3204 DRIVER holes, and stripped threads. Check for burrs on mating surfaces. Blow compressed air through all passages to make sure they are open. Check pressure take-off plugs for tightness.
Using straight edge, Tool C-3335, inspect valve body mating surface on transmission case for any burrs or irregularity in surface. Surfaces should be smooth and flat.
Inspect servo and accumulator bores for any scores or scratches. Light scratches may be removed with crocus cloth. Check regulator valve body mating surface in front of case for any irregularities. Disregard any scratches which may have been caused by torque converter reaction shaft bolt lock washers.
It is vitally important that band adjusting screws fit freely into transmission case. When lock nuts are loose, the adjusting screws must be finger free. If not, inspect screws and nuts for pulled threads or foreign material in threads. This is very important in obtaining proper band adjustments.
57. TRANSMISSION EXTENSION—INSPECTION
Inspect extension for cracks in casting and remove burrs from gasket surface. Inspect vent
(drive type) in top of extension and make sure it is open and free from dirt, undercoating, etc. The purpose of this vent is to prevent vacuum from forming in transmission case when it is drained. Vent also releases fumes and expansion of oil caused by heat. Clean output shaft rear bearing and dry with compressed air. Do not spin bearing with air pressure. Inspect bearing for rough spots. Do not remove bearing from extension unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so.
OUTPUT
SHAFT REAR
BEARING
EXTENSION
•HUSK
53x27 A
Fig. 71— Installing Output Shaft Rear Bearing
58. OUTPUT SHAFT REAR
BEARING—REMOVAL
If necessary to remove rear bearing, proceed as follows: Remove output shaft rear bearing oil seal—if installed. Using pliers, Tool C-760 remove the output shaft rear bearing snap ring.
Inspect ring for distortion. Using driver, Tool
MyMopar.com
56—TORQUE-ELITE TRANSMISSION
C-3205 DRIVER(l)
OUTPUT SHAFT
REAR BEARING(2)
OIL SEAL
53x25 A
Fig. 72—Installing Output Shaft Rear Bearing Oil Seal
C-3275, drive output shaft rear bearing out of rear extension.
59. OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING AND OIL
SEAL—INSTALLATION
Using driver, Tool C-3204, install the output shaft rear bearing in extension, as shown in
Figure 71. Make sure bearing is properly seated, lubricate with Automatic Transmission
Fluid (Type A). Install output shaft rear bearing snap ring. Snap rings available in two sizes, select one to give minimum clearance.
Using driver, Tool C-3205, install output shaft rear bearing oil seal (with metal portion of seal facing in) until tool bottoms on extension, as shown in Figure 72.
60. GOVERNOR DISASSEMBLY
AND INSPECTION (Fig. 73)
Using pliers, Tool 3229, remove snap ring from governor weight assembly. Keep thumb pressure against secondary weight when removing snap ring (spring loaded). Remove governor secondary weight and spring. Inspect all parts for burrs and wear. Check secondary weight for free movement in primary weight by placing secondary weight in primary weight without the spring. Primary weight should fall freely when both parts are clean and dry.
Inspect governor weight spring for distortion.
Place secondary weight and spring in pri-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL mary weight, compress spring and install snap ring. Make sure snap ring is seated properly.
Slide governor body and support from rear oil pump housing. Remove the two governor support seal rings and inspect. Remove the four governor body to support bolts and lockwashers. Separate body from support. Washers are part of bolt and serviced as an assembly. Mating surfaces are machined and can be easily damaged. Inspect oil passages and make sure they are free from dirt or foreign matter. Clean passages with compressed air. Inspect governor valve and body for slight scores. Valve should travel freely in governor body.
61. REAR OIL PUMP—INSPECTION
Inspect oil pump housing machined surfaces for nicks and burrs and housing ball plug for leaks. Inspect oil pump gears for scoring or pitting. With gears cleaned and installed in pump housing (as marked) and using straight edge, Tool C-3335 (and feeler gauge), check clearance between pump housing face and face of gears, as shown in Figure 74. Clearance limits are from .001" to .0025".
62. GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY—REASSEMBLY
Lubricate the two governor support seal rings with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and install on the governor support. Make sure rings are free to rotate in grooves. Position governor body on support and install the four
OUTER WEIGHT SNAP RING
VALVE SHAFT
SNAP RING
'INNER WEIGHT SNAP RING
•VALVE SHAFT
INNER WEIGHT
WEIGHT SPRING
BODY TO SUPPORT
SCREW AND
LOGKWASHER (4)
OUTER WEIGHT
BODY
SUPPORT
VALVE SHAFT
SNAP RING
LOCATING SCREW WNk.
SUPPORT SEAL RINGS
^\^Jt^ 56x716A
Fig. 73—Governor Assembly (Disassembled View)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOOL
TORQUE-FLJTE TRANSMISSION—57
53x66
Fig. 74—Checking Clearance Between Rear Pump
Body and Gears bolts with attached lockwashers. Do not tighten bolts at this time. Slide governor support and body assembly into position in rear oil pump housing. Compress governor support seal rings with fingers as support enters oil pump housing. Do not force.
63. OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT—INSPECTION
Inspect all oil passages in output shaft support for any obstructions. Remove pressure take-off plugs and clean passages with compressed air.
Check rear oil pump mating surface for burrs and score marks. Check for stripped threads in support. Inspect gasket surfaces for burrs and dirt. Inspect inside bearing surface for wear and scoring.
HAND BRAKE
DRUM
UNIT
NO. 1
56x632
Fig. 75-Using Propeller Shaft Flange and Brake
Drum Assembly (As a Holding Fixture for Unit No. 1)
Fig. 76—Removal and Installation of Output Shaft
Drive Housing Snap Ring
64. DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION AND ASSEM-
BLY OF POWER TRAIN UNITS
Unit No. 1 (Output Shaft, Kickdown Planet
Pinion Carrier, and Intermediate Shaft Assemblies)—Disassembly.
Unit can be placed in the propeller flange and brake drum assembly to aid in disassembly, as shown in Figure 75. Using a screw driver, remove output shaft drive housing snap ring, as shown in Figure 76. Refer to Figure 77 and complete disassembly of unit as follows: Remove reverse annulus gear (B) from output shaft assembly (K). Remove thrust plate (C) from kickdown planet pinion carrier. Remove intermediate shaft (D) and kickdown carrier assemblies (F) from output shaft assembly.
Remove output shaft thrust washer (E) located inside of housing. Remove kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly (F) from intermediate shaft assembly (D). The kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly used in this unit is identical to the low-reverse planet pinion carrier assembly used in Unit No. 2 but should not be interchanged. Remove kickdown carrier thrust washer (G) from carrier assembly ( F ) .
Remove sun gear roller thrust washer (H) from intermediate shaft assembly. With a screw driver, remove kickdown annulus gear snap ring (I) and separate gear (J) from intermediate shaft assembly (D).
65. OUTPUT SHAFT—INSPECTION
Inspect speedometer drive gear for any nicks or burrs. Nicks or burrs on gear surface can be removed with the use of a sharp edged stone.
Inspect thrust surfaces, journals, and inner bushing for scores or excessive wear. Inspect
MyMopar.com
58—TORQUE-FLUE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
I N E
A—OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE HOUSING SNAP RING
B—REVERSE ANNULUS GEAR
C — THRUST PLATE
D—INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
E— OUTPUT SHAFT THRUST WASHER
F _ KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY
G—KICKDOWN CARRIER THRUST WASHER
H —SUN GEAR THRUST WASHER
I—KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR SNAP RING
J —KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR
K - O U T P U T SHAFT ASSEMBLY
L—OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL RING—SMALL
M—OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL RING—LARGE
N—INTERMEDIATE SHAFT SEAL RING-SMALL
O-INTERMEDIATE SHAFT SEAL RING—LARGE 56 x 7 0 9 A
Fig. 77-Unit No. 1 (Disassembled View) riveting and housing for any cracks and internal driving lugs for excessive wear. Housing and output shaft is serviced as an assembly.
Inspect interlocking seal rings (L—M) on output shaft (K) for wear or broken locks, and make sure they turn freely in the grooves.
Do not remove rings unless condition warrants.
When replacing rings, use extreme care so as not to damage interlocking portion of ring.
Make sure all oil passages are open by blowing out with compressed air. Inspect output shaft and kickdown carrier thrust washers (E—G) for scratches or excessive wear. Inspect sun gear (roller type) thrust washer (H) for pitted or cracked rollers.
66. INTERMEDIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLY-
INSPECTION
Inspect all bearing and thrust surfaces for scoring or scratches. Blow compressed air through all oil passages; make sure they are open and free of foreign matter. Inspect the four large (O) and two small (N) interlocking seal rings for excessive wear, broken ends, and make sure they rotate freely in the grooves.
Intermediate shaft and clutch feed tubes are serviced as an assembly.
67. KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER
ASSEMBLY—INSPECTION
Inspect planet pinion carrier for cracks and pinions for broken or worn gear teeth. Using a feeler gauge, check end clearance on individual planet pinion gears, clearance should be
.006" to .017". Inspect pinion shafts for fit in the carrier and make sure pinions are free to rotate on shafts. (.001 inch max. loose in hole). Make sure pinion shaft lock pins are installed. Do not replace carrier assembly unless inspection reveals it is necessary. The planet pinion carrier and pinions are serviced only as a complete assembly. Inspect kickdown carrier thrust washer (G) for scratches or excessive wear.
NOTE: Scuffing of the carrier does not affect its operation and the carrier should not be replaced for this reason alone.
68. REVERSE AND KICKDOWN ANNULUS—
GEARS—INSPECTION
Inspect for worn, cracked, or broken gear teeth.
69. UNIT NO. 1 (OUTPUT SHAFT, KICKDOWN
PLANET PINION CARRIER AND INTERME-
DIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLIES)—ASSEMBLY
To aid in the assembly of Unit No. 1, use the propeller shaft flange and brake drum assembly which was removed from the transmission.
With output shaft assembly (K) in the upright position, lubricate output shaft thrust washer (E) with Automatic Transmission
Fluid (Type A) and place into position in housing. Place kickdown annulus gear (J) in position on intermediate shaft assembly (D) and install snap ring (I) (select fit). Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance under the
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TORQUE-FLUE TRANSMISSION—59
Place intermediate shaft assembly (D) in output shaft housing (K). Lubricate kickdown carrier thrust washer (G) with Automatic
Transmission Fluid (Type A) and place in position on kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly ( F ) . Place carrier assembly (F) in position in kickdown annulus gear ( J ) . Make sure thrust washer (G) remains in position. Place thrust plate on carrier. Be sure pilot enters bore in pinion carrier. Place reverse annulus gear (B) in position in housing (K) and install output shaft drive housing snap ring.
Make sure snap ring seats properly in housing.
Lubricate and install sun gear (roller type) thrust washer (H) over intermediate shaft and into position in carrier assembly.
Fig. 78—Checking Clearance Between Kickdown
Annulus Gear Snap Ring and Intermediate
Shaft Assembly kickdown annulus gear snap ring (Fig. 78).
Clearance limits are as close to zero as possible.
Snap rings are available in the following two thicknesses:
PT #1636357
1636358
.060" to .062"
.064" to .066"
When checking clearance, support annulus gear on edge of bench so intermediate shaft will seat properly in gear. Make sure ring seats properly.
70. UNIT NO. 2—(SUN GEAR, REVERSE PLANET
PINION CARRIER, OVERRUNNING CLUTCH,
AND REAR CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER
ASSEMBLIES)—DISASSEMBLY
The letters referred to in the Disassembly, Inspection, and Assembly of this unit pertain to
Figure 79.
With unit setting in upright position, remove sun gear and front clutch thrust washer ( A ) .
Using two screw drivers, inserted between clutch and intermediate support, remove rear clutch retainer assembly from sun gear, as
H G t $ T
A - S U N GEAR THRUST WASHER
(same as output shaft thrust washer)
B-SUN GEAR REAR CLUTCH SEAL RING
C - S U N GEAR ASSEMBLY
D-REVERSE BAND SNAP RING
E-REVERSE PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY
F - OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH HUB ASSEMBLY
G - L O W AND REVERSE BAND DRUM
H-OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH CAM ROLLER SPRING
1—OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH CAM ROLLER
J-INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT AND CAM ASSEMBLY
K-REAR CLUTCH SNAP RING
L - PRESSURE PLATE
M-DRIVING DISC
N—CLUTCH PLATE
O _ PISTON RETURN SPRING SNAP RING
P - RETURN SPRING RETAINER
Q-RETURN SPRING
R—PISTON
S-PISTON SEAL RING-OUTER
T-PISTON SEAL RING-INNER
U-PISTON RETAINER ASSEMBLY 5 6 x 7 1 0
Fig. 7 9 - U n i t No. 2 (Disassembled View)
NOTE: Number of Clutch Plates and Discs is Dependent Upon Vehicle Model.
MyMopar.com
60—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
OVERRUNNING
CLUTCH HUB
(1)
56x636
Fig. 80—Removing Rear Clutch Piston Retainer
Assembly from Sun Gear
INTERMEDIATE
SUPPORT AND
CAM ASSY
(2)
\
56x637
Fig. 81—Removal and Installation of Sun Gear
(Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier and Overrunning
Clutch Assembly)
. , , . INTERMEDIATE
" % SUPPORT AND
CAM ASSY
56x639
Fig. 83—Removal and Installation of Intermediate
Support and Cam Assembly from Overrunning
Clutch Hub shown in Figure 80. Remove the two rear clutch seal rings (neoprene) from sun gear.
Remove reverse sun gear from overrunning clutch and reverse planet pinion carrier assemblies, as shown in Figure 81.
Install gauge, Tool C-3527, in intermediate support and cam assembly, as shown in Figure
82. Remove intermediate support and cam assembly from overrunning clutch hub (Fig. 83).
Using a screw driver, remove snap ring (D) from low and reverse band drum assembly
(G). Remove the low and reverse planet pinion carrier assembly (E) from reverse band drum.
Remove overrunning clutch hub assembly from reverse band drum, as shown in Figure 84.
LOW AND REVERSE BAND DRUM
OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HUB
Fig. 82—Installation of Tool C-3527 in Intermediate
Support and Cam Assembly
Fig. 84—Removal and Installation of Overrunning
Clutch Hub in Low and Reverse Band Drum
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 85—Removal and Installation of Rear Clutch
Piston Retainer Snap Ring
Remove overrunning clutch cam roller springs (H) and rollers (I) (ten each) by removing gauge, Tool C-3527, from intermediate support and cam assembly. Have assembly over bench when removing tool.
71. REAR CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER
ASSEMBLY—DISASSEMBLY
Using screw driver, remove snap ring (large) from rear clutch piston retainer assembly, as shown in Figure 85. Remove rear clutch pressure plate (L) from retainer assembly. Invert clutch piston retainer assembly and remove the clutch plates (N) for driving disc (M) assemblies. Using compressor, Tool C-3533, slightly compress the rear clutch piston return spring retainer, as shown in Figure 86. Use extreme care not to damage piston return spring retainer by compressing spring too far.
Release compressor, Tool C-3533, and remove the clutch return spring retainer (P) and spring (Q) from clutch piston retainer assembly. Spring retainer may require guiding past snap ring groove as tool is released. Using a twisting motion, remove the clutch piston assembly (R) from retainer. Remove rear clutch piston inner and outer seal rings (S and T).
72. CLUTCH DRIVING DISC AND PLATE-
INSPECTION
Inspect driving discs for evidence of wear,
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—61 burning, glazing and flaking off of facing material. If grooves in facing are worn off, or if facing is burned, or flaking off, replace all of driving discs. Replace driving discs if splines have become damaged. Inspect the steel clutch plates and pressure plate surfaces for evidence of burning, scoring, and damaged driving lugs; replace if necessary.
73. PISTON AND SEAL RINGS—INSPECTION
Inspect seal ring surfaces in piston retainer for nicks or deep scratches. Light scratches will not interfere with sealing of neoprene rings.
Inspect inner and outer piston seal rings (neoprene) for deterioration, wear, and hardness.
Install new seal rings if necessary. Inspect seal ring groove in piston for nicks or burrs.
Inspect inside bore of the piston for score marks; if light, remove with crocus cloth; if heavy, replace the piston. Inspect piston spring, retainer, and snap ring for distortion.
74. REAR CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER
ASSEMBLY—INSPECTION
Note the ball check in clutch retainer. The purpose of ball check is to relieve centrifugal oil pressure when transmission is in neutral or operating in drive (breakaway) and engine speeds are increased; otherwise clutch may engage. Make sure ball operates freely.
Inspect the band contacting surface for deep scores and burns, especially if the band lining is worn to the point where the steel band has
TOOL
"•4
Fig. 86— Removal and Installation of Rear Clutch
Spring Retainer Snap Ring
MyMopar.com
62—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION been contacting the rear clutch piston retainer.
Do not machine the piston retainer in a lathe to remove score marks. Install new retainer if necessary.
Inspect steel clutch plate contacting surfaces for burrs or brinelling. Make sure clutch driving lugs on steel clutch plates travel freely into retainer. Remove any metal pickup on hub of retainer.
75. REAR CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER-
ASSEMBLY
Lubricate and install inner piston seal ring
(T) on hub of clutch retainer. Make definitely sure that lip of seal is facing down and seal is properly seated in groove. Lubricate and install outer seal ring (S) on clutch piston (lip of seal toward piston head). Place piston assembly (R) in clutch retainer (U) and with a twisting motion, seat piston in bottom of retainer. Install piston return spring on hub and position spring retainer and snap ring on spring.
Using compressor, Tool C-3533, compress the clutch spring sufficiently to seat the snap ring.
Piston spring retainer may require guiding past ..the clutch hub. Make sure snap ring is properly seated. Remove compressor, Tool C-
3533. Lubricate all clutch plates and drive discs with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A).
Assemble by placing one of the rear clutch steel plates, in the clutch retainer followed by a driving disc. Repeat this procedure until all discs and plates have been installed. Install pressure plate (L) and snap ring (K). Make sure ring is properly seated.
76. REVERSE SUN GEAR ASSEMBLY-
INSPECTION
Inspect gears for cracked or broken teeth. Inspect steel back bronze type bushing for scoring or excessive wear. Bushing and reverse sun gear are serviced as an assembly. Inspect intermediate support bearing surface of gear for wear and slight score. Inspect rear clutch seal ring grooves on gear for nicks or burrs. Inspect inner ring sealing area in bore of sun gear for grooves or scratches.
Inspect thrust area of sun gear for nicks, scratches, or burrs. Inspect seal rings (neoprene) for deterioration, wear nicks, or hard-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ness. Install new seal rings if necessary. Inspect front clutch and sun gear thrust washer for scratches or excessive wear.
77. INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT AND CAM
ASSEMBLY—INSPECTION
Inspect riveting of cam to intermediate support. Inspect cam roller surface for brinelling.
Inspect roller spring retaining tabs for being bent or distorted. Inspect bearing surface on hub for scoring.
Inspect steel back bronze type bushing in hub for scratches or scoring and excessive wear. Bushing and intermediate support are serviced as an assembly. Inspect overrunning clutch cam rollers for being pitted or scored.
Inspect overrunning cam roller springs for distortion. Replace if necessary.
78. LOW AND REVERSE PLANET PINION
CARRIER ASSEMBLY—INSPECTION
Inspect planet pinion carrier for cracks and pinions for broken or worn gear teeth. Using a feeler gauge, check end clearance on individual planet pinion gears, clearance should be
.006" to .017".
Inspect pinion shafts for fit in the carrier and make sure pinions are free to rotate on shafts. Make sure shaft lock pins are installed.
Do not replace carrier assembly unless inspection reveals it is necessary. The planet pinion carrier and pinions are serviced only as a complete assembly.
NOTE: Scuffing of the carrier does not affect its operation and the carrier should not be replaced for this reason alone.
79. LOW AND REVERSE BAND
DRUM—INSPECTION
Inspect the band contacting surface for deep scratches and burns, especially if band lining is worn to the point where steel band has been contacting the drum. Do not attempt to machine the drum in lathe to remove score marks.
Inspect driving lugs inside of drum for excessive wear.
80. OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HUB
ASSEMBLY—INSPECTION
Inspect cam roller contacting surface for brin-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
|OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ROLLER
4
OVERRUNNING
CLUTCH
CAM SPRING
Fig. 87—Installation of Overrunning Clutch Rollers and Springs in Intermediate Support and Cam Assembly elling. Inspect steel back bronze type bushing in hub for scratching or scoring and excessive wear. Bushing and hub are serviced as an assembly.
Inspect lubricating hole and make sure it is free from foreign matter by cleaning with compressed air. Inspect reverse band drum snap ring (select fit) for being distorted.
81. UNIT NO. 2—ASSEMBLY
Install overrunning clutch hub assembly (hub first) into snap ring side of the low and reverse band drum, (Fig. 84). Place low and reverse
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—63 planet pinion carrier assembly (E) in position in low and reverse band drum (G). With drum supported, select snap ring to give minimum clearance. Snap rings are available in the following three thicknesses:
PT #
1636315
1636316
1636317
.060"
.064"
.068" to to
.062"
.066" to .070"
Place gauge Tool C-3527, in position in intermediate support and cam assembly, and install cam springs and rollers, as shown in Figure 87.
Make definitely sure that cam springs and rollers are properly seated against cam; otherwise, damage to springs will result when overrunning clutch hub is installed. With intermediate support and cam assembly resting on bench, lubricate bushing and install low and reverse band drum assembly over hub. While holding the two assemblies together, remove gauge, Tool C-3527.
Lubricate bearing surface on reverse sun gear and install intermediate support and planet pinion carrier assembly.
Lubricate the two sun gear-rear clutch seal rings (neoprene) with Automatic Transmission
Fluid (Type A) and install on reverse sun gear.
Install rear clutch piston retainer assembly on reverse sun gear. To prevent personal injury, do not place the fingers under the clutch retainer assembly when installing. Install the front clutch and sun gear thrust washer (A). Lubriplate may be used to hold the thrust washer in position.
R A
A-INPUT SHAFT THRUST WASHER
B-FRONT CLUTCH SNAP RING
C-INPUT SHAFT AND BUSHING ASSEMBLY
P-CUSHION SPRING
E-CUSHION SPRING RETAINING PLATE
F-DRIVING DISCS
G-CLUTCH PtATES
H-CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
I-DRIVING DISC HUB
J-PISTON RETURN SPRING
RETAINER SNAP RING
K-RETURN SPRING RETAINER
L-PISTON RETURN SPRING
M-PISTON LEVER RETAINER
N-LEVER
O-PISTON
P-PISTON RETAINER ASSEMBLY
Q-OIL SEAL RING-SMALL
R-OIL SEAL RING-LARGE
S-PISTON SEAL RING-INNER
T-PISTON SEAL RING-OUTER
58x61
Fig. 88-Unit No. 3 (Disassembled View)
MyMopar.com
64—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
82. UNIT NO. 3—(INPUT SHAFT AND FRONT
CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER ASSEMBLIES)
—DISASSEMBLY
The letters referred to in disassembly, inspection and reassembly of this unit, pertain to
Figure 88.
Remove the input shaft fibre thrust washer
(select fit) (A). During assembly, the front clutch cushion spring (D) was preloaded to
500 pounds. To remove snap ring ( B ) and input shaft, the front clutch assembly must be placed in an arbor press. With the rear of retainer resting on a suitable support, press the input shaft only far enough into retainer to permit removal of the snap ring with a screw driver.
If an arbor press is not available, two large
"C" clamps may be used by placing them 180° apart and applying equal pressure. If "C" clamps are used, make sure they are positioned so as not to damage the ball check located in back side of retainer.
Slowly release pressure on input shaft, then remove the retainer and input shaft from the arbor press. Remove the input shaft assembly
(C) from the clutch piston retainer (P). Invert the front clutch piston retainer, and remove cushion spring (D), cushion spring retaining plate (E), driving discs and clutch plates (F and G), pressure plate (H) and clutch hub (I). Install compressor Tool C-3533, then compress the front clutch piston return spring retainer (K).
Using pliers, Tool C-3301, remove the piston return spring snap ring (J). Release and remove fixture, Tool C-3533. Remove the clutch piston return spring retainer (K) and spring
(L). Remove lever retainer (M) and levers (4)
(N) from front clutch piston retainer (P).
Using a twisting motion, remove the piston assembly from the retainer.
83. INPUT SHAFT—INSPECTION
Inspect the input shaft thrust washer (A) for cracks or excessive wear. Inspect front clutch snap ring (B) for distortion. Inspect interlocking seal rings (Q and R) for wear or broken locks. Make sure they turn freely in the grooves. Do not remove rings unless condition warrants. When replacing rings, use extreme care not to damage interlock portion of ring.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Make sure all oil passages are open by blowing out with compressed air.
Check splines and lugs for nicks or burrs.
Inspect bearing and thrust surfaces for nicks or scratches. Inspect steel back bronze type bushing for scratches or scoring or excessive wear. Bushing and input shaft are serviced as an assembly.
84. CLUTCH DRIVING DISCS, PLATES,
AND HUB—INSPECTION
Inspect driving discs (F) for evidence of wear, burning, glazing, and flaking off of facing material. If grooves in facings are worn off, or if facings are burned, or flaking off, replace all driving discs. Replace driving discs if splines have become damaged. Inspect the steel clutch plates (G), cushion spring retaining plate (E), and pressure plate (H) surface for evidence of burning, scoring, and damaged lugs; replace if necessary. Inspect cushion spring (D) for distortion and evidence of scoring.
Inspect lever contacting surface on pressure plate for evidence of wear. Inspect clutch hub
(I) splines for wear and remove any metal pickup which may have accumulated on either side of the hub. (Oil passages in hub are to lubricate clutch plates.) Make sure they are free of foreign matter.
85. FRONT CLUTCH PISTON, SEAL,
AND LEVERS—INSPECTION
Inspect levers (N) for wear and scoring. Remove and inspect inner and outer piston seal rings (T and S) (neoprene) for deterioration, wear and hardness. Install new seal rings if necessary. Inspect seal ring groove in piston for nicks or burrs.
Inspect inside portion of piston hub for score marks. If score marks are light, remove with crocus cloth; if scores are deep, replace the piston (O). Inspect lever retainer (M), return spring (L), spring retainer (K) and snap ring
(J) for distortion.
86. FRONT CLUTCH RETAINER—INSPECTION
Note ball check in clutch retainer. The purpose of ball check is to relieve centrifugal oil pressure when clutch is in released position (neutral and reverse) and engine speeds are increased; otherwise, clutch may engage. Make
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL sure ball operates freely. Inspect seal ring surface in the retainer hub; if intermediate shaft seal rings have excessively worn or grooved this surface, replace the clutch piston retainer
(P) assembly. Inspect steel clutch plate contacting surfaces for scores or brinelling. Make sure clutch driving lugs on steel plates travel free in retainer. Inspect splines on rear of retainer for nicks, burrs, or brinelling. Inspect thrust surface on rear of retainer for scratches or scoring. Make sure all clutch feed and lubricating passages are free of foreign matter.
87. UNIT NO. 3—ASSEMBLY
Lubricate and install inner (neoprene) seal ring (S) on hub of clutch retainer (P). Make definitely sure that lip of seal is facing down and seal is properly seated in groove. Lubricate and install outer seal ring (T) on clutch piston with lip of seal toward head of piston.
Place piston assembly ( 0 ) in clutch retainer and with a twisting motion, seat piston in bottom of retainer. Place lever retainer (M) in piston and install the four levers (N). Make sure levers are free and properly seated in piston slots.
Install clutch return spring (L) over hub of clutch retainer (P) and position spring retainer (K) and snap ring (J) on spring. Using compressor, Tool C-3533, compress the clutch return spring sufficiently to seat snap ring with pliers, Tool C-3301. Spring retainer may require guiding past the piston retainer hub. Make sure snap ring is properly seated. Remove spring compressing portion of Tool C-3533. Install pressure plate (H) (smooth side up) in retainer. Install discs and plates by placing one of the driving discs (F) in the clutch retainer followed by a steel plate (G). Repeat this procedure until all driving discs and steel plates have been installed.
88. CHECKING FOR PROPER TRAVEL
OF CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
It is very important that the front clutch pressure plate has the proper amount of travel.
Insufficient travel may cause the clutch plates to drag. Excessive travel may cause delayed engagement, or may allow slippage of the clutch. To check for proper travel of the clutch pressure plate, proceed as follows: Check clearance by temporarily installing pressure plate
(part NO. 1732114) on top of the clutch pack.
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—65
STRAIGHT EDGE
57x336
Fig. 89—Identification of Front Clutch Cushion Spring
NOTE: Pressure plate (part NO. 1732114) is the rear clutch pressure plate used in the early model transmissions. If not available, it is suggested that one be obtained and kept with the special TorqueFlite service tools.
Hold this rear pressure plate firmly in place, by hand, and insert a feeler gauge between it and the top disc in the assembly. Total clearance should be .020-.040 inch. If the measured clearance is not within these limits, the discs will have to be replaced with any combination of new discs that will provide the required clearance.
Clutch discs are in three different thicknesses. Sizes and part numbers are as follows:
Part Number
1636260
1636372
1636373
Thickness
.060-.063 inch
.073-.076 inch
.087-.090 inch
When right clearance is obtained, remove clutch plate (part #1732114).
Install the front clutch hub, (I), cushion spring retaining plate (E), and cushion spring
(D) (concave side, as shown in Figure 89, toward retaining plate) (E). The front clutch cushion spring must be preloaded to 500 pounds for assembly. Place front clutch and the input shaft assembly in an arbor press with the rear of the piston retainer resting on a suitable support. Press the input shaft into the clutch retainer until snap ring (B) can be installed. If arbor press is not available use two "C" clamps placed 180° apart as described previously.
Remove the input shaft and front clutch assemblies from the arbor press (or remove "C" clamps) and install the input shaft thrust washer.
MyMopar.com
66—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
SERVOS, BANDS AND
MISCELLANEOUS INSPECTION
89. BAND—INSPECTION
All letters referred to in inspection of these parts pertain to Figure 90. Make visual inspection of bands and lining for wear and bond to metal. If lining is worn to the point that grooves are no longer visible, band assemblies must be replaced. The lining is bonded to the band and no attempt should be made to reline them. Inspect bands for distortion or cracked ends. The reverse band is narrower than the kickdown band. Therefore, it should be identified for proper installation.
90. LEVER ASSEMBLIES—INSPECTION
Inspect levers (J and K) for being cracked or worn and make sure they are free to turn on shaft and have side clearance when installed.
Inspect lever shaft (I) for excessive wear.
LOW AND REVERSE BAND
REVERSE BAND STRUT
ANCHOR
-KICKDOWN BAND
-KICKDOWN BAND STRUT
-ANCHOR
-LEVER SHAFT PLUG
-LEVER SHAFT SPACER
-LEVER SHAFT
- L O W AND REVERSE BAND LEVER
-KICKDOWN BAND LEVER
- L O W AND REVERSE SERVO PISTON PLUG
-PISTON ROD GUIDE SNAP RING
- L O W AND REVERSE SERVO PISTON SPRING RETAINER
- L O W AND REVERSE SERVO PISTON SPRING
- L O W AND REVERSE SERVO PISTON
-SPRING RETAINER SNAP RING
-PISTON ROD GUIDE
- K I C K D O W N SERVO PISTON SPRING
-PISTON ROD
- K I C K D O W N SERVO PISTON
-ACCUMULATOR PISTON
-ACCUMULATOR SPRING
-PISTON RING-LARGE
-PISTON RING—SMALL
- L O W AND REVERSE SERVO PISTON RING
— PLUG RETAINING RING
- P I S T O N PLUG SPRING
—PISTON ROD GUIDE SEAL RING
—PISTON SEAL RING—SMALL
—PISTON SEAL RING-MEDIUM
—PISTON SEAL RING—URGE
- B A N D ADJUSTING SCREW
—ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT
GO
11-TRANSMISSION CASE
JJ-ACCUMULATOR COVER
K K - C O V E R SCREW
U—COVER SCREW WASHER
Fig. 90—Servos and Bands (Disassembled View)
56 x 7 0 8 A
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
91. REVERSE SERVO PISTON
ASSEMBLY—INSPECTION
Inspect lever contacting surface on plug (L) for excessive wear. Remove and inspect reverse servo piston seal ring (Z) (neoprene) for deterioration and hardness. Inspect seal ring groove for nicks or burrs. Inspect servo piston return spring ( 0 ) , retainer ( N ) , and snap ring (Q) for being distorted.
92. KICKDOWN PISTON ASSEMBLY-
INSPECTION
Inspect riveting of kickdown piston rod (T).
Also inspect guide (R) contacting surface for nicks or burrs. Inspect seal ring (CC) on guide for wear and make sure it turns freely in the groove. Check fit of guide (R) on piston rod.
Inspect the three rings (GG, EE, DD) (two interlocking) on piston for wear or broken locks. Make sure they turn freely in the groove.
It is not necessary to remove rings unless condition warrants. When replacing new rings, use extreme care so as not to damage the interlocking portion of the ring. Inspect kickdown piston (U) for light scores and wear. Inspect kickdown piston spring (S) and rod guide snap ring (M) for being distorted.
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—67
FRONT OIL
PUMP HOUSING
53x28
Fig. 9 1 — Installing Front Pump Housing Oil Seal
93. ACCUMULATOR PISTON AND
SPRING—INSPECTION
Inspect the two seal rings (X and Y) (one interlocking) for wear or broken locks and make sure they turn freely in the grooves. It is not necessary to remove rings unless condition warrants. When replacing new interlocking seal rings, use extreme care so as not to damage interlocking portion of ring. Inspect accumulator piston (V) for nicks, burrs, and excessive wear. Inspect the accumulator spring
(W) for being distorted.
94. DRIVE SLEEVE
Inspect the front seal ring (neoprene) for nicks, deterioration and hardness. Inspect the interlocking seal ring for wear or broken locks, and make sure it turns freely in the groove.
It is not necessary to remove rings unless condition warrants. Inspect driving lugs for excessive wear and bearing surface on outer diameter for nicks, burrs, or scratches.
95. FRONT OIL PUMP
Inspect front oil pump housing outer seal (on circumference of housing) and oil seal for deterioration and hardness. Do not remove oil seal from housing unless inspection reveals that it is necessary. To remove oil seal, use a brass drift and drive seal out of housing. To replace front oil pump housing oil seal, position seal in housing with seal lip toward rotor bore,
(metal portion of seal down) and use driver,
Tool C-3278 to drive seal until tool bottoms on face of housing, as shown in Figure 91. Inspect drive sleeve seal ring contacting surface in housing for wear and scratches. Inspect steel back bronze type bushing in hub for scratches or scoring and excessive wear. (Bushing and housing are serviced as an assembly.) Remove oil pump rotors and inspect rotor contacting surfaces for high spots, scratches, burrs, or grooving.
Inspect regulator body contacting surface on pump housing face for nicks or burrs. Inspect housing passages and make definitely sure they are free from dirt and foreign matter. Clean and install oil pump gears in housing. Replace gears, as identified when removed, with counterbore in pinion gear facing down. Using straightedge, Tool C-3335 and feeler gauge, check clearance between pump housing face and face of rotors, as shown in Figure 92. Clearance
MyMopar.com
68—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
TOOL
56x650
Fig. 92—Checking Clearance Between Front Pump
Body and Gears limits are from .001" to .0025". After checking pump gear clearance, lubricate pump rotors with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A ) .
Measure the tip clearance between the rotor lobes. The manufacturing limits are .005" to
.008". Replace the rotors if this clearance exceeds .010".
Measure the diametral clearance between the outer rotor and pump housing bore. The manufacturing limits are .008" maximum. Replace the rotors or pump housing if the clearance exceeds .010".
96. REGULATOR VALVE BODY
AND VALVES
Place body and valves in pan containing a clean solvent, wash thoroughly, and dry with com-
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL pressed air. Inspect the reaction shaft seal ring surface in bore for scratches, nicks, or burrs.
Inspect both valves for free movement in valve body; they should fall in and but of bores when both the valves and body are dry. Crocus cloth may be used to polish valves providing care is exercised not to round the sharp edge portion of the valves. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type of valve, it helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve body, thus reducing the possibilities of sticking.
Check all fluid passages for obstructions and inspect all mating surfaces for burrs and distortion. If regulator valve body should have a slight nick or raised portion on mating surfaces, it may be removed by using a surface plate and crocus cloth. Inspect front and rear pump check valve for proper seating on both surfaces.
If necessary to remove valve, use a pair of long nose pliers. When installing check valve, make definitely sure rear pump check valve (with metering hole) is positioned toward outside of regulator valve body.
Check regulator valve spring seat (snap ring). After the valves and regulator valve body have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected, the valves should be reinstalled in body, (Fig. 69). Place assembly on a clean surface and cover until ready for installation.
Inspect regulator valve and torque converter control valve springs for distortion. Check regulator valve spring sleeve and cup for burrs.
Check adjusting screw and locknut in retainer, for freeness and pulled threads.
ASSEMBLY OF UNITS IN TRANSMISSION CASE
97. TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION
SHAFT—INSTALLATION
Using heat lamps, heat front of transmission case to approximately 170 to 190 degrees F.
Install guide studs, Tool C-3283 in front face of reaction shaft flange. Lubricate portion of reaction shaft that presses into case with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A ) . Position torque converter reaction shaft into front of transmission case so that guide studs in shaft align with threaded holes in case.
Using Tool C-3531*, press reaction shaft into place, as shown in Figure 70. Remove the guide studs and start the three transmission case to reaction shaft bolts and washers draw down evenly, and tighten to specifications. Coat torque converter reaction shaft seal (neoprene) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and install on shaft.
•Refer to "Special Tools".
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
REGULATOR
VALVE BODY
Fig. 93—Installing Front Oil Pump Assembly
98. REGULATOR VALVE BODY
Install guide studs, Tool C-3288, as shown in
Figure 68. Install regulator valve body gasket over guide studs and into position on the transmission case. With seal ring (neoprene) in position on reaction shaft, install regulator valve body and valves over guide studs and into position. Hold valves in place to prevent damage while installing valve body.
99. FRONT OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-
INSTALLATION
With inner and outer seals lubricated and pump rotors in position in housing (Fig. 93) (counterbore in pinion gear facing down as identified when removed), place oil pump housing over studs and slide into position. Start five of the
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—69
bolts (with aluminum washers) and draw housing down evenly until it is seated in transmission case. Remove guide studs and install the two remaining bolts and washers, then tighten to specifications. Improper tightening of these bolts may cause pump gears to bind. Lubricate and install front pump drive sleeve (bearing into surface first), as shown in Figure 94, then engage the driving lugs of the oil pump inner rotor to determine if oil pump rotors turn freely. Main body of driving sleeve should be flush with oil pump housing when properly installed,
(Fig. 95). If gears do not turn freely, remove pump and check for foreign matter between pump rotors and housing.
Install the torque converter control valve spring, retainer and gasket. Tighten to specifications. Reinstall the transmission, regulator valve spring, sleeve, cup, gasket and retainer
(with adjusting screw and lock nut installed).
Tighten to specifications.
100. KICKDOWN PISTON—INSTALLATION
Lubricate piston seal rings and place on kick-
SEAL RING
DRIVE
SLEEVE
DRIVE SLEEVE
56x6541
Fig. 94—Installing Front Oil Pump Drive Sleeve
57x148
Fig. 95—Front Pump Drive Sleeve—Installation-
Incorrect Installation (Top View)
Correct Installation (Bottom View)
MyMopar.com
70—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
TOOL
KICKDOWN
ISTON ROD
UIDE
KICKDOWN^
PISTON SPRING
ICKDOWN
ISTON ROD
56x625
Fig. 96—Removal and Installation of Kickdown
Piston Rod Guide and Spring down piston. Compress outer ring and start assembly into case. With piston properly centered so as not to damage rings, tap lightly and bottom piston into case. Place kickdown piston rod assembly in piston and slide piston spring over kickdown piston rod. Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified) to compress piston rod guide spring.
Place the kickdown piston rod guide over spring and compress spring while guiding piston rod through piston rod guide, as shown in
Figure 96. Using extreme care, compress the kickdown piston spring to the point that piston rod guide seal ring slightly binds on case. Then work seal ring into position by gradually compressing spring. Install snap ring (Fig. 62) and make sure it is properly seated. Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove.
101. REVERSE SERVO PISTON—INSTALLATION
Lubricate the low-reverse servo piston seal ring and install on piston (lip of seal facing top end of piston). Install cushion spring and plug into servo piston and secure with snap ring. (Make sure snap ring seats properly). Install piston assembly into transmission case.
Place reverse servo piston spring over piston and position spring retainer over spring.
Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified) for reverse servo piston installation. Compress spring (Fig. 97) sufficiently to install snap ring. Spring retainer may require guiding into case. Make sure snap ring seats properly.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove from transmission case.
102. KICKDOWN BAND—INSTALLATION
Install the kickdown band assembly by rotating band ends over center support in transmission case, as shown in Figure 58. Use extreme care when installing bands so not to damage lining on edges of transmission case. Install anchor on kickdown band adjusting screw.
103. LOW-REVERSE BAND—INSTALLATION
Install anchor on reverse band adjusting screw.
Install band by rotating band ends through rear opening in transmission case, as shown in Figure 56.
104. LOW-REVERSE AND KICKDOWN BAND
LEVER ASSEMBLIES AND STRUTS-
INSTALLATION
Place levers in position in case and slide shaft through levers from rear of transmission case, as shown in Figure 59. Remove guide stud, Tool
C-3288 from threaded end of shaft and install shaft lever flat spacer and plug. Tighten plug to specifications. Position kickdown band over anchor and compress band in sufficiently to install kickdown band strut, as shown in Figure
57. Place low-reverse band into position on anchor and compress band end; and with the aid of a screw driver, install strut.
O W - R E V E R S E SERV
SPRING RETAINER
56x623
Fig. 97—Compressing Low and Reverse Servo
Spring and Retainer
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—71
POWER TRAIN UNITS (Fig. 98) - INSTALLATION
105. UNIT NO. 3—(FRONT CLUTCH AND INPUT
SHAFT ASSEMBLIES)—INSTALLATION
If when transmission was disassembled, the end clearance was found to be incorrect, correction can be made at this time by selection of proper input shaft thrust washer. To accomplish this, use a micrometer and measure the thickness of the thrust washer which was removed. Then, select a thicker or thinner washer to give proper clearance. Thrust washers are available in the following thicknesses:
Part No. Thicknesses Color
1638669
1638670
1638671
1823872
.115" to .117"
.097" to .099"
.078" to .080"
.059" to .061"
Natural
Black
Red
Orange
With input shaft thrust washer in position and input shaft seal rings lubricated, start unit
UNIT NO. 2
UNIT NO. 3 through rear of transmission case, as shown in Figure 55. By supporting and keeping unit centered as much as possible, guide through bands and reaction shaft into position.
106. UNIT NO. 2—(SUN GEAR, REVERSE
PLANET PINION CARRIER, OVERRUN-
NING CLUTCH AND REAR CLUTCH
ASSEMBLIES)—INSTALLATION
Start unit through rear of transmission case.
Align identified locating hole in intermediate support with threaded locating hole inside of transmission case, as shown in Figure 99. By supporting and keeping unit centered as much as possible, guide it through bands until it contacts the hub on the front clutch. While pushing in on assembly, rock sun gear to engage clutch plates of rear clutch on hub of front clutch. Be careful thrust washer does not fall out of place.
UNIT NO. 1
IDENTIFIED LOCATING
HOLE IN INTERMEDIATE
SUPPORT
[THREADED LOCATING HOLEj
Fig. 99-lnstalling Unit No. 2
56x630
Fig. 98—Power Train Units
While rocking sun gear, make sure unit does not bind on bands or in intermediate support.
Do not use excessive force when installing this unit so as to prevent damage to clutch discs in rear clutch. A drift may be used to assist in alignment of intermediate locating holes.
Install the three intermediate support locating bolts (Fig. 22), lockwashers, and tighten to specifications. Use extreme care when installing the locating bolt (inside of case) to prevent loss of lock washer. Check input shaft and sun gear for free rotation.
107. UNIT NO. 1—(OUTPUT SHAFT, KICKDOWN
PLANET PINION CARRIER, AND INTERME-
DIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLIES)—
INSTALLATION
Be sure reverse sun gear thrust washer (roller
MyMopar.com
72—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
type) is in position in planet pinion carrier assembly. Lubricate seal rings and bearing surface on intermediate shaft with Automatic
Transmission Fluid (Type A ) . Install unit by guiding intermediate shaft in sun gear, as shown in Figure 52. Keeping unit centered as much as possible and slowly turning output shaft, slide into position (large seal ring on output shaft flush with rear of transmission case). Use extreme care when installing to prevent damage to seal rings on intermediate shaft.
108. OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT-
INSTALLATION
With guide studs Tool C-3283 installed in rear of transmission case, place output shaft support gasket over guide studs and into position on rear of case. Lubricate output shaft seal rings.
Install support over shaft and guide studs, and position against transmission case, as shown in Figure 51. Use care when installing support so as not to damage ring sealing surfaces. Install the one (short) output shaft support to transmission case bolt and lockwasher (Fig.
49) and tighten finger tight.
109. REAR OIL PUMP AND GOVERNOR
ASSEMBLIES—INSTALLATION
Place rear oil pump pinion ball in ball pocket in output shaft. Lubricate rear oil pump drive pinion. Place over output shaft and slide into position aligning keyway in pinion with ball in shaft, as shown in Figure 50. Pinion was marked when removed in disassembly. Make sure it is installed correctly.
Lubricate rear oil pump gear and position in pump housing. Make sure gear is installed correctly; check marking. Slide rear oil pump and governor assemblies over output shaft and position in the support, as shown in Figure 49.
There are two extra holes in housing which are used for vents. Make definitely sure that no attempt is made to install bolts in these holes.
Check each threaded hole before installing bolts.
Install the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support bolts and washers.
Dished type washers are used to prevent cutting or chipping of soft metals and should be installed on bolts with dished portion facing away from bolt head. Draw down evenly, tighten to specifications. After bolts have been properly tightened, turn output shaft to make sure pump
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL gears are free to rotate. If not, disassemble pump to determine cause.
110. GOVERNOR WEIGHTS AND VALVE
ASSEMBLY—INSTALLATION
Align locating hole in output shaft to locating bolt hole in governor support and install locating bolt, tighten to specifications. Holes can be easily aligned by turning output shaft and holding governor body. If governor body has been removed and reinstalled, tighten the four governor body bolts to specifications.
Dry governor weight assembly and valve with compressed air, but do not lubricate when assembling. Place governor weight assembly
(secondary weight snap ring facing out) into governor body (Fig. 48) and using pliers, Tool
C-3229, install snap ring (Fig. 47). Make sure snap ring seats properly. With the governor valve (small end up) on governor valve shaft slide into governor body through the output shaft and governor weight assembly (Fig. 4 6 ) ; at the same time positioning valve in body.
Install the governor valve shaft snap ring
(weight assembly end). Make sure it is properly locked to shaft, as shown in Figure 39.
After snap ring installation, apply sufficient pressure to both ends of the valve shaft to force snap rings to outer portion of snap ring grooves
(See Fig. 100). Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in governor body.
111. TRANSMISSION EXTENSION-
INSTALLATION
Install new transmission extension gasket over guide studs and into position against output shaft support. Do not use sealing material on gasket. Place extension over output shaft and guide studs and into position against support.
Propeller shaft flange and drum assembly can
SNAP RINGS
57x37
Fig. 100—Positioning Governor Valve Shaft Snap
Rings in Grooves
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL be used if necessary to draw extension bearing on output shaft. DO NOT USE HAMMER.
Start the transmission extension to case bolts and lockwashers then draw down evenly and tighten to specifications. After these bolts have been properly torqued, turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. Install speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly in transmission extension, as shown in Figure 44 and tighten to specifications.
112. HAND BRAKE-INSTALLATION
Make sure the brake support spacer (neoprene) is in position on back of brake support and spacer sleeve is in center of support. Slide hand brake assembly (intact) over rear of extension.
Make sure spacer sleeve remains in center of support.
Indent in shield is for correct positioning on extension. Also, shield must be located on extension far enough to permit installation of spring.
Install the brake support grease shield spring
(opening in spring toward adjusting sleeve).
Make sure spring is properly seated in groove.
Slide the brake shoe return spring behind the grease shield spring and hook into position, as shown in Figure 101. Reinstall pin through brake anchor and extension. Install propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. Install the propeller shaft flange washer and nut. Tighten to specifications. Use wrench, Tool C-3281 to
Hold brake drum and flange assembly while tightening nut (Fig. 42).
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—73
113. RECHECKING FRONT CLUTCH
END CLEARANCE
Prior to installing the valve bodies and transfer plate assembly, recheck front clutch end clearance using dial indicator, Tool C-3339, as shown in Figure 41. To make this check, pull front clutch forward by pulling on the input shaft, or by carefully inserting screw driver between the front and rear clutch. Remove screw driver and with dial indicator, point contacting edge of front clutch retainer set dial indicator to zero. Then push front clutch assembly rearward against rear clutch, and take indicator reading.
This clearance should be from .020" to .050".
If the clearance is not within these limits, then, transmission will have to be partially disassembled in the following manner to allow an input shaft thrust washer of proper thickness to be installed:
Remove the seven bolts and lockwashers from the transmission extension and install guide studs, Tool C-3283. Then, remove the one output shaft support to transmission case bolt and washer (Fig. 49) and remove the hand brake assembly, extension, output shaft support, and
Unit No. 1 (one assembly) as shown in Figure
102. Support assemblies as much as possible when removing to prevent damaging seal rings on intermediate shaft. Refer to "Power Train
Units—Removal." Unit No. 2 and Unit No. 3.
Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the input shaft thrust washer and select a washer to give correct clearance. Thrust wash-
HANO BRAKE ASSY.
BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR ANCHOR WASHSt
ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE
CABU- GUlOt CUMP
BRACKET ASSEMBLY
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW
5 3 x 3 8
Fig. 101—Internal Expanding Handbrake
(Drum Removed)
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT
56x656
Fig. 102—Removal of Output Shaft Support,
Extension, Handbrake Assembly and Unit No. 1 as an Assembly
MyMopar.com
74—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ers are available in the following thicknesses: 115. VALVE BODIES AND TRANSFER
PLATE ASSEMBLY—INSTALLATION
Part No.
Thickness Color
1638669
1638670
1638671
1823872
.115"
.097"
.078"
.059" to .117" to .099" to .080" to .061"
Natural
Red
Black
Orange
Install power train units. Refer to "Power
Train Units—Installation"; Unit No. 3, and
Unit No. 2.
Install hand brake assembly, extension, output shaft support, and Unit No. 1 in one assembly as removed, following the procedure as described in the installation of Unit No. 1.
With assembly in position in transmission case, install the one support to case bolt and lockwasher finger tight. Remove the guide studs and install the seven extension to case bolts and lockwashers, draw down evenly and tighten to specifications. After bolts have been properly torqued, turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. Recheck front clutch end clearance.
Check mating surfaces of valve body assembly for cleanliness. Then place the valve bodies and transfer plate assembly into position on transmission case, as shown in Figure 40. Install the three transfer plate bolts (short) and washers, two in center, and one in front. Draw down evenly and tighten to specifications. Dished type washers are used to prevent cutting or chipping of soft metals and should be installed on bolts with dished portion facing away from head.
Install accumulator spring through transfer plate and position in piston. Install accumulator cover, as shown in Figure 39, (three bolts with washers) and draw down evenly. Place oil strainer assembly in position on transfer plate assembly. Install the four bolts and washers, draw down evenly, and tighten strainer assembly and accumulator cover bolts to specifications. Install neutral starting switch.
116. OIL PAN—INSTALLATION
114. BAND ADJUSTMENTS
Since both band assemblies have been removed, it is very important that the hand brake drum is turned in a clockwise and counter-clockwise direction to center bands on retainers prior to making band adjustments.
LoW-Reverse (Rear) Band
Refer to "Maintenance,
Tests," Paragraph 15.
Kickdown (Front) Band
Refer to "Maintenance,
Tests," Paragraph 15.
Adjustments and
Adjustments and
Using a new oil pan gasket, place oil pan in position on transmission case. Install the oil pan bolts and washer assemblies; draw down evenly, and tighten to specifications. Position the manual valve operating shaft lever so there is %
2
* n c n
clearance (without gasket) between bottom of lever and transmission case. Tighten locking screw securely. A 7/32 inch drill can be used for obtaining proper clearance (Fig. 30).
Place control cable adapter (with spring lock in position) in lever and install pin. Place manual valve control lever in reverse position and install gasket, control cable housing, and three bolts and washers. Draw down evenly and tighten to specifications. Install lip seal flat washer, and throttle valve lever assembly over shaft. Tighten clamping bolt.
RECONDITIONING OF VALVE BODY
AND TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLIES
117. LOWER VALVE BODY—REMOVAL
Place the valve bodies and transfer plate assembly in stand, Tool C-3528. Never clamp any portion of any valve body assembly in a vise or use force when removing or installing valves and plugs. Remove the two valve body bolts (long) from retainer plate located between front and rear valve bodies, (Fig. 103) and remove plate.
Invert valve bodies and transfer plate and re-
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL move the two lower valve body bolts and lockwashers. Remove lower valve body and plate from transfer plate, as shown in Figure 104.
118. REAR VALVE BODY—REMOVAL
Remove the two transfer plate to rear valve body bolts and lockwashers, and remove rear valve body from transfer plate assembly, as shown in Figure 105. Remove the servo pressure bleed valve to prevent loss. Invert valve bodies and transfer plate assembly and replace on stand Tool C-3528.
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—75
119. FRONT VALVE BODY—REMOVAL
Remove the two front valve body to transfer plate bolts and lockwashers and separate front valve body from transfer plate assembly, as shown in Figure 106. Remove upper valve body plate from transfer plate.
120. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Place all parts in clean solvent, wash thoroughly, and dry with compressed air. Make definitely sure all passages are free from obstructions.
SERVO PRESSURE BLEED VALVE
REAR VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY VALVE BODY RETAINER
PLATE A N D SCREWS
FRONT VALVE
BODY ASSEMBLY
SCREWS
VALVE BODY
PLATE (UPPER)
VALVE BODY PLATE (LOWER)
SCREW
LOWER VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY
Fig. 103—Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate (Separated)
SCREW
56x676 B
MyMopar.com
76—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
LOWER VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY
LOWER VALVE
BODY PLATE
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
THROTTLE VALVE.
»STOP SCREW,
LOCKNUT
VALVE BODY
PLATE (UPPER) m^^nomwSK^
REAR VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY
REPAIR STAND (TOOL)
Fig. 104—Removal and Installation of Lower Valve
Body Assembly and Plate
When inspecting, also check for porous castings. Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs, nicks and grooves. Small ones may be removed
SERVO PRESSURE
"BLEED VALVE
REAR VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY
Fig. 105—Removal and Installation of Rear Valve
Body Assembly
56x677
Fig. 106—Removal a n d Installation of Front Valve
Body Assembly with crocus cloth; otherwise, damaged parts must be replaced. Using straight edge, Tool C-
3335, check all mating surface for distortion.
Using a pen light, inspect bores in valve body for score marks, pits, and irregularities. Inspect all springs for distortion and collapsed coils.
Inspect all valves and plugs for burrs, nicks, and scores. Small ones may be removed with crocns cloth providing extreme care is used not to round off the sharp edge portion of valve.
The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type valve. The sharp edge helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between valves and body, thus reducing possibilities of sticking. Check valves and plugs for free operation in bores; they must fall freely in bores when valves, plugs and bores are clean and dry.
Fig. 107-Lower Valve Body (Disassembled View)
A—Cover Screws and Lockwashers
B-Valve Cover
C-Lower Valve Body Check Valve Ball Seats
D-Lower Valve Body Check Valve Balls
E—Lower Valve Body
F—Throttle Compensator Valve Cover Screws and Lockwashers
G—Throttle Compensator Valve Cover
H-Lower Valve Body Check Valve Ball Seat
I-Lower Valve Body Check Valve Ball
J—Throttle Compensator Valve Spring
K—Throttle Compensator Spring
56x674B
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
121. VALVE BODY AND PLATES (UPPER AND
LOWER) AND TRANSFER PLATE-
INSPECTION
Inspect valve body plates (upper and lower) for nicks, scratches, or burrs; and make sure metering holes are open. Visually inspect transfer plate for porosity. Inspect machined surface for nicks or burrs. Inspect threaded holes for damaged threads.
122. LOWER VALVE BODY—DISASSEMBLY
(Fig. 107)
Remove the three screws from cover (B)
(large). Using care to prevent loss of the two check valve balls (D) and sets (C), remove cover.
NOTE: If check ball seat washers are staked in place, do not remove.
While holding throttle compensator valve cover (G) in place (spring loaded), remove the three screws and lockwashers ( F ) . Use care when removing cover to prevent loss of check valve ball ( I ) and seat ( H ) . Remove throttle compensator valve spring (J) and valve (K).
123. LOWER VALVE BODY—
ADDITIONAL INSPECTION
Inspect check ball contacting surface in valve seats and valve body for nicks or burrs. Inspect covers for flatness and porosity.
124. LOWER VALVE BODY—ASSEMBLY
(Fig. 107)
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—77
Place valve body in an upright position and install throttle compensator valve (K) and spring
(J). Make sure spring is properly seated in valve. Place check ball (I) and ball seat (H) in position in valve body ( E ) .
NOTE: Ball seat must have smooth side
(rounded edge) towards ball.
Place throttle compensator valve cover (G) in position over spring and body, and install the three screws and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten.
Place the two check valve balls (D) and seats (C) in position in valve body; and install cover (B), screws, and lockwashers ( A ) .
Draw down evenly and tighten.
125. REAR VALVE BODY—DISASSEMBLY
(Fig. 108)
Keeping thumb pressure against the kickdown plug cover (B) (spring loaded) remove the three screws and lockwashers.
CAUTION
Use caution when removing cover to prevent loss of the 3-1 relay valve spring ( E ) 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug (C) and 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug ( D ) .
Remove the 1-2 shift spring (G) and valve
(H). Remove the 3-1 relay valve ( F ) . Remove the 2-3 shift valve spring (I) and valve ( J ) .
Remove the three governor plug cover screws and lockwashers (K). Use caution when reraw
56x6828
Fig. 108-Rear Valve Body (Disassembled View)
A-Rear Valve Body Kickdown Plug Cover Screws and Lockwashers
B-Rear Valve Body Kickdown Plug Cover
C - l - 2 Shift Valve Kickdown Plug
D—2-3 Shift Valve Kickdown Plug
E-3-1 Relay Valve Spring
F—3-1 Relay Valve
G - 1 - 2 Shift Valve Spring
H - l - 2 Shift Valve
1-2-3 Shift Valve Spring
J - 2 - 3 Shift Valve
K—Rear Valve Body Governor Plug Cover Screws and Lockwashers
L—Rear Valve Body Governor Plug Cover
M-Check Valve Ball Seat
N-Check Valve Ball
O - 1 - 2 Shift Valve Governor Plug
P-2-3 Shift Valve Governor Plug
Q-Rear Valve Body
R—Rear Valve Body Plate Screws and Lockwashers
S-Rear Valve Body Plate
T-Servo Pressure Bleed Valve
MyMopar.com
78—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
REAR VALVE BODY
1-2 SHIFT VALVE \
SPRING \
J ! U — - SCALE
3-1 RELAY VALVE
56x681
Fig. 109-Using Scale to Hold 2-3 Shift Valve
Kickdown Plug in Body During Assembly moving cover (L) to prevent loss of check valve ball seat (M) and ball (N).
NOTE: If check ball seat washers are staked in place, do not remove.
Remove the 1-2 shift valve governor plug
(0) from valve body. Remove the 2-3 shift valve governor plug (P) from valve body. Rear valve body plate (S) can be removed for cleaning purposes by removing the four screws and lockwashers.
CAUTION
Be sure to use same screws when installing the cover.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
126. REAR VALVE BODY—ASSEMBLY
With valve body (Q) setting in an upright position, install the 1-2 shift valve (H) (small end first) into valve body. Place the 2-3 shift valve (J) (spring pilot facing out) into position in valve body. Position the 1-2 and 2-3
**hift valve springs (G and I) in valves.
Place the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug (D)
(identified by larger pilot) over 2-3 shift valve spring (I). Compress spring sufficiently to seat plug in valve body and secure by placing a thin piece of metal (6" scale) behind plug, as shown in Figure 109. Install the 3-1 relay valve (F) (large end first) into valve body and place spring (E) on pilot. Place the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug (C) over the 1-2 shift valve spring (G). Place kickdown plug cover over 3-1 relay valve spring and 1-2 kickdown plug. Compress springs and guide the 1-2 kickdown plug into valve body. Install the three cover screws and lockwashers and draw down evenly and tighten. Remove piece of metal or
6" scale.
Install rear valve body plate (S) (if removed). Be sure to use correct length screws.
Place the 1-2 shift valve governor plug (0)
(small end first) in position in valve body.
Place the 2-3 shift valve governor plug (P)
(small end first) in position in valve body.
Install check ball (N) and seat (M).
NOTE: Ball seat must have smooth side
(rounded edge) towards ball.
r c
Fig. 110—Front Valve Body (Disassembled View)
A—Shuttle Valve Cover Screws and Lockwashers
B-Shuttle Valve Cover
C-Front Check Valve Ball Seat
D-Front Check Valve Ball
E-Shuttle Valve Plug
F-Shuttle Valve Spring
G-Shuttle Valve
H-Throttle Valve
I—Throttle Valve Spring
J-Kickdown Valve
K-Kickdown Detent Plug
L - Front Valve Body
M-Reverse Blocker Valve Pin
N—Reve/se Blocker Valve Plug
O—Reverse Blocker Valve
P—Reverse Blocker Valve Spring
Q-Throttle Valve Lever Shaft
R—Manual Valve Lever Assembly
S-Manual Valve Lever Detent Ball
T—Manual Valve Detent Ball Spring
U-Manual Valve
V-Throttle Valve Lever Shaft Snap Ring
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Place governor plug cover (L) in position on valve body and install the three screws and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten.
127. FRONT VALVE BODY—DISASSEMBLY
All letters referred to in disassembly of front valve body pertain to Figure 110.
Keeping thumb pressure against shuttle valve cover (B) (spring loaded) remove the four screws and lockwashers. Use caution when removing cover to prevent loss of front check valve ball seat (C) and ball (D).
NOTE: If check ball seat washers are staked in place, do not remove.
While holding thumb over throttle valve, invert valve body and remove shuttle valve plug, spring and valve, as shown in Figure 111.
Remove throttle valve, spring, kickdown valve, and detent plug, as shown in Figure
112. It is unnecessary to remove detent plug retaining bolt and lockwasher. Remove cotter pin from valve body in outer end of reverse blocker valve. Remove reverse blocker valve plug (N), blocker valve ( 0 ) , and spring (P).
Normally it isn't necessary to remove the throttle valve lever shaft (Q) manual valve lever
MANUAL VALVE
FRONT VALVE
BODY ASSV
'SHUTTLE VALVE
^SHUTTLE VALVE SPRING
SHUTTLE VALVE PLUG 56x667A
Fig. Ill—Removal and Installation of Shuttle Valve,
Plug, Spring and Valve
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—79
K I C K D O W N
DETENT PLUG
K I C K D O W N VALVE
THROTTLE VALVE SPRING
THROTTLE VALVE
REVERSE BLOCKER
VALVE PIN
5 6 x 6 6 8
Fig. 112—Removal and Installation of Throttle Valve,
Spring, Kickdown Valve and Detent Plug assembly (R) or manual valve (U). If condition warrants, however, such as damage, proceed as follows:
Remove the throttle valve lever shaft snap ring (V) (Fig. 110). Remove any burrs from throttle valve and manual valve lever shafts and slide them from valve body. Slide throttle valve lever shaft (Q) out of manual lever assembly (R). Using caution to prevent loss of detent ball (S) and spring (T), remove manual valve lever assembly (R) from valve body.
Using a twisting motion, remove manual valve
(U).
128. FRONT VALVE BODY—
ADDITIONAL INSPECTION
Inspect the manual valve detent ball (S) and make sure it slides freely into valve body. Inspect staking of manual lever and throttle cam to their respective shafts. Inspect kickdown valve detent plug to make sure it slides freely on valve. Inspect check valve ball seat in valve body (faulty casting).
While compressing detent ball in position with right index finger, install manual valve control lever by sliding over detent ball placing shaft of manual valve control lever in bore of valve body. This assembly may be held in position by the use of a rubber band.
While holding manual lever assembly in position against valve body, install throttle valve lever assembly through manual valve lever assembly, with flat portion on end of shaft fac-
MyMopar.com
80—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
ing away from valve body (to allow maximum travel of lever). While holding levers in position in valve body with rubber band, install shaft snap ring (V). Remove rubber band.
With reverse blocker valve spring in position in valve ( 0 ) and with slots in valve aligned with pin, install reverse blocker valve in valve body. Install reverse blocker valve plug (N) and compress spring sufficiently to install pin
(M). Lock pin in position. Check kickdown detent plug stop screw for being tight. Install detent plug (larger inner diameter first) on kickdown valve (J) and position kickdown valve (detent plug first) into valve body.
Install throttle valve spring (I) and throttle valve (H) into valve body. Install shuttle valve
(G) and spring (F) in the valve body. Install plug (E) into position in valve body. Place front check valve ball (D) and seat (C) in position in valve body.
NOTE: Ball seat must have smooth side
(rounded edge) towards ball.
Place shuttle valve cover (B) in position on valve body and install four bolts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly.
129. VALVE BODY PLATE (UPPER)—
INSTALLATION
Place valve body transfer plate in an upright position on fixture Tool C-3528. Place steel plate
(upper) over pilots on Tool C-3528, and into position on transfer plate.
132. FRONT VALVE BODY—INSTALLATION
Position front valve body on steel plate (upper), as shown in Figure 106, and install two bolts and lockwashers in outer end of valve and draw down finger tight.
VALVE BODY
RETAINER PLATE
TOOL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
56x672
Fig. 114—Tightening Valve Body Screws
130. REAR VALVE BODY—INSTALLATION
Invert transfer plate assembly and replace on fixture, Tool C-3528. With servo pressure bleed valve in place, hold rear valve body up into position against steel plate, as shown in Figure
105, and install the two outer bolts (short) with lockwashers through the transfer plate and into lower valve body. Draw up finger tight.
131. LOWER VALVE BODY—INSTALLATION
Position steel plate (lower) on lower valve body. Place valve body and steel plate into position on transfer plate. Install the two bolts
(intermediate length) and lockwashers, and tighten the two lower valve body and two rear valve body bolts to specifications.
Invert valve bodies and transfer plate and replace on fixture Tool C-3528. Install valve
TRANSFER PLATE ASSY.
FRONT VALVE BODY ASSY.
VALVE BODY RETAINER PLATE
REAR VALVE
BODY ASSY.
5 6 x 6 7 i A
Fig. 113—Installation of Valve Body Retainer Plate
MANUAL VALVE
LOWER VALVE
BODY ASSY.
56x666A
Fig. 115—Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly
(Bottom View)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL bodies retainer plate and two bolts (long) with lockwashers (Fig. 113), and tighten the two retainer plate bolts and two front valve body bolts to specifications, as shown in Figure 114.
Overtightening will cause distortion to valve body and result in sticky valves. Check manual
TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—81
valve operation to make sure it operates freely.
Place transfer plate and valve bodies assembly
(Fig. 115) in transmission case. Remove stand,
Tool C-3528. Install transmission as outlined under "Removal and Installation of Transmission," Paragraph 34.
TORQUE CONVERTER
SERVICE PROCEDURES
132. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF
TORQUE CONVERTER AND HOUSING a. Removed
Remove transmission, as outlined in transmission section. Remove the torque converter housing-to-adapter plate bolts and washers. As the housing is doweled to the adapter plate, care must be exercised during removal. Do not remove adapter plate unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. Do not hammer or pry between the mating surfaces to loosen, as the metal may be distorted which can result in misalignment.
After removing housing, inspect mating surfaces of housing and adapter plates. Remove all burrs or rough spots with emery cloth. Remove all obstructions, dirt etc. from vent hole screens (when so equipped).
Remove the bolts holding metal dust shield to converter housing adapter plate. Using wrench, Tool C-589, remove stud nuts and lock washers which hold converter unit to the crankshaft. The torque converter assembly is a welded unit and cannot be serviced, except as an assembly. If torque converter is being removed for replacement of starter ring gear, refer to Paragraph 133.
b. Installation
If a new torque converter is being installed, make sure all visible foreign matter, such as raised metal around studs, burrs, chips, etc.
have been removed from the converter and crankshaft drive flanges.
Check crankshaft flange runout (maximum is .002 inch total indicator reading) by installing dial indicator set, Tool C-3339 at one of the housing-to-adapter bolt holes. Checking crankshaft flange runout will determine whether or not the crankshaft flange may be contributing to torque converter hub runout.
If crankshaft flange runout is within tolerance, proceed to install torque converter and housing as follows:
Position torque converter unit on crankshaft flange. Using wrench, Tool C-589 tighten stud nuts to 55 foot-pounds torque.
Before installing torque converter housing, it is recommended that the torque converter hub runout be checked (and corrected if necessary) as outlined in Paragraph 134. If torque
BRASS DRIFT
53x91
Fig. 116—Removing Starter Ring Gear
MyMopar.com
82—TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
converter hub runout is within specifications, continue to install housing in the following manner:
Position housing over dowels and against mating face of adapter plate. Tighten mounting bolts and nuts just snug enough to retain housing in position.
Check (and correct if necessary) torque converter housing bore and face runout as outlined in Paragraph 135. If bore and face runout are within specifications, tighten housing bolts and nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque. Install transmission as outlined in appropriate transmission section.
133. REPLACING STARTER RING GEAR a. Removing Ring Gear
Remove torque converter and housing as outlined in Paragraph 132. Support the torque converter assembly in a vise. With a file carefully remove the staking lugs which retain the ring gear to the torque converter. Be careful to avoid distortion when supporting torque converter in the vise. Place torque converter on blocks of wood (for support) while removing gear. Using a blunt chisel, or drift. Tap around ring gear until it comes off torque converter (Fig. 116).
NOTE: A small amount of heat, directed on gear, will aid in its removal—if ring gear is to be discarded.
b. Installing Ring Gear
Remove burrs or raised spots (left on the gear contact surface of the torque converter) with a file. Do not remove more metal from the torque converter than is required to remove burrs and rough surfaces.
Any of the following methods may be used to heat the starter ring gear for installation on converter:
Oven—Use Oven C-794 and set temperature at 150 degrees F. Allow ring gear to remain in oven for approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
Boiling Water—Place ring gear in a shallow container, add water, and heat for approximately eight minutes after water has come to a boil.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Steam—Place ring gear on a flat surface and direct the steam flow around the gear for approximately two minutes.
Flame—Place ring gear squarely on a flat surface. Using a medium-size tip, direct a slow flame around the inner rim of the gear, being careful not to direct the flame onto the teeth of the ring gear. Place a few drops of water on the face of the gear at intervals during the heating process. When the gear is hot enough to boil the drops of water, installation of gear to torque converter can be made.
Place starter gear over flange surface of torque converter, making sure that the rear face of gear contacts flange on torque converter evenly around the entire diameter.
Reweld ring gear to torque converter, using extreme care to place, as nearly as possible, the same amount of metal in exactly the same location as original assembly. This is necessary in order to maintain proper balance of the unit.
Place welds alternately on opposite sides of the converter to minimize distortion.
The following suggestions are offered as an aid in making the weld:
(a) Use a welding current of 200 amps.
(b) Use a D.C. welder that is set straight polarity or an A. C. welder.
(c) Use %
2
i n c n
diameter, No. 47 or a %
2 inch diameter No. W2B welding rods (or their equivalent). To prevent burning through the torque converter, the arc should be directed at the intersecticln of the gear and the housing from an angle of approximately 45 degrees from the face of the gear. DO NOT GAS WELD.
Before installing the torque converter, inspect all gear teeth and remove all nicks where metal is raised, welding splatter, etc. as these will cause noisy starter operation.
Reinstall torque converter and housing. Refer to Paragraph 132.
134. TORQUE CONVERTER HUB RUNOUT a. Checking Hub Runout
It is not necessary to remove the torque converter housing to make this check.
Install attachment, Tool C-3613 to dial indicator set, Tool C-3339. (Refer to Fig. 117.)
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 117—Checking Torque Converter Hub Runout
(Typical View—Housing for Air Cooled
Converter Shown)
Install dial indicator support rod in one of the transmission to torque converter mounting bolt holes, as shown in Figure 117.
With remote control starter switch, Tool
C-763, properly installed at a convenient "hot" terminal, crank engine while noting indicator needle deflection. Torque converter hub runout must not exceed .004 inch.
b. Correcting Hub Runout
If hub runout exceeds .004 inch total indicator
TOROUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION—83
reading, correct by using heat. Before using heat, make definitely sure that torue converter has been drained.
NOTE: It will not be necessary to remove housing to perform the heating operation.
Mark the position of the hub low spot as accurately as possible on the impeller shell.
Rotate the converter so that this mark is directly down.
Remove the dust shield from the front of the adapter plate. Using a piece of chalk, mark the front cover radius directly opposite the hub low spot previously marked on the impeller shell. The subsequent heating operation can now be done through the opening in the adapter plate, as shown in Figure 118.
The size of the spot to be heated is governed by the magnitude of hub runout and is usually about y
2
inch diameter for .008 inch total indicator reading. Using an acetylene torch containing a No. 3 tip, and set to maximum heat, apply it to the selected spot until it becomes a dull red. Rapid heating of a local area is essential and if the torch is adjusted properly, the spot will become red within a few seconds.
If sparks are noted, it is an indication that torch is too close and metal is starting to burn; move back slightly. Care should be taken to remove the torch the instant the selected spot becomes a dull red, to avoid over correction or damage to the unit.
The area is then quenched (as rapidly as possible) with cold water (hose or wet rags).
It is suggested this be done by starting around the heated area and working in toward the
PUMP DRIVE LUG
54x114
Fig. 118—Heating Torque Converter (Housing
Removed to Show Heating Operation)
TORQUE CONVERTER
IMPELLER HUB
56 X 340
Fig. 119-Tool C-3461 Installed in Torque
Converter Hub
MyMopar.com
84—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
spot. This prevents the heat from spreading.
The hub runout should not be rechecked until the converter has returned to a uniform room temperature.
If the converter hub runout exceeds .016
inch total indicator reading, remove the converter and recheck the drive flanges for raised metal chips, etc. Check crankshaft flange runout (maximum .002 inch). If the hub runout remains in excess of .016 inch total indicator reading, install a new converter.
135. CHECKING AND CORRECTING HOUSING
FACE AND BORE RUNOUT a. Bore Runout
Torque converter housing bore and face alignment, as well as converter hub runout, should be checked anytime that the transmission is removed to correct leakage at the front pump oil seal or front pump failure—also whenever an engine replacement is made.
Mount Tool C-3461, as shown in Figure 119, inside the converter with ears of the washer behind the converter pump drive lugs. The square end of the bolt can be held with a wrench as the nut is tightened. Dial indicator set, Tool
C-3339, can now be attached, as shown in Figure 120.
Locate the indicator so that it is bearing on the transmission pilot bore of the converter housing and rotate the converter as outlined in Paragraph 134 (a-3).
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 121—Eccentric Dowel Orientation Diagram
Runout must not exceed .010 inch total indicator reading. To illustrate the recommended correction procedure, assume that the total indicator reading is .016 inch, in a direction which approximates 2 o'clock, on the adapter plate. (Refer to Figure 121.)
In this case the housing is off crankshaft centerline .008 inch (one-half total indicator reading) which is .003 inch greater than the allowable limit of .005 (one-half total indicator reading).
To correct an off-center condition three offset dowels (Fig. 121) are available in the following
Fig. 120—Checking Housing Bore Runout (Typical
View—Housing for Air Cooled Converter Shown) Fig. 122—Removing Dowel Pin
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Dowel Offset
(inches)
.007
.014
.021
Part Number
1736347
1736348
1736353
In the case, under consideration, use of the
.007 inch offset dowels (pair) will bring the runout well within the allowable limit of .005
inch, or: .008 inch minus .007 inch (offset dowels) equals .001 inch runout. Dowels must be used in pairs (same part number).
To install the dowel pins (pair), remove the torque converter housing* as outlined in Paragraph 132 (a). Remove dowel pins from adapter plate, as shown in Figure 122.
Select eccentric dowels (pair) as indicated in Eccentric Dowel Chart.
TORQUE-FLUE TRANSMISSION—85
Fig. 123—Checking Face Runout (Typical View-
Housing for Air Cooled Converter Shown)
Total Indicator
Reading
.012* to .020"
.022* to .034"
.036" to .052"
ECCENTRIC DOWEL CHART
One-Half Total
Indicator Reading
.006* to .010"
.011" to .017"
.018" to .026"
Size Dowel to be Used
.007"
.014"
.021"
Dowel Part
Number
1736347
1736348
1736353
Install both dowels with the slots parallel and aligned in the direction to correct the bore runout. (Slot indicates the direction of maximum dowel eccentricity.) Majority of corrections will be for one direction only; but it is possible that the housing bore may be out in two directions. In the latter case, it may be necessary to use the next higher step dowels, adjusting these dowels with the housing installed to bring within tolerance. Care should be taken to back up adapter plate when inserting lower dowel to avoid distortion or breakage of adapter plate. Both dowels should be inserted into adapter plate up to off-set shoulder.
Install and tighten converter housing bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque. Remount dial indicator and recheck bore runout. Small corrections can be made by loosening housing mounting bolts and turning dowels with a screw driver to shift the housing and bring bore within limits.
b. Face Runout
Relocate dial indicator set, Tool C-3339, as shown in Figure 123. Rotate converter as outlined in Paragraph 3 (a-3). If the total indicator reading is greater than .008 inch note the amount of the total indicator reading and the location of the lowest indicator reading (i.e., the point where the indicator arm or follower is extended the furthest).
Place the shim or shims on one or more of the transmission to housing bolts in position
Part Number
1610442
1610443
1610444
Thickness
.002"
.003"
.005"
MyMopar.com
86—TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION
between transmission and housing. Consult the following table for shim thicknesses.
136. FLUSHING THE TORQUE CONVERTER
In the event that a transmission has failed any part, it will be necessary to flush the torque converter to insure that fine metallic particles are not later transferred into the transmission controls. This should be done by slowly pouring 2 qts. of new, clean kerosene into the torque converter hub, using a long spouted can. Before this can be done it is necessary to reach into the torque converter with a screwdriver and turn the torque converter stator hub counter-clockwise (large splined hub) by lifting on the right side of the spline so that one of the i/g inch x % inch rectangular slots on this assembly is visable at the top. Since there is a second slot (directly below), an adequate opening is provided for the kerosene (if poured
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL slowly). After the kerosene is in the torque converter, close the hub opening with masking tape.
Rotate the converter approximately 10 seconds by cranking engine.
NOTE: Disconnect coil wire to prevent engine from starting.
Drain the converter by removing the drain plug and masking tape.
Realign the stator hub and repeat the above procedure at least once more (or if there is excessive contamination, until the kerosene drained out is clear). To complete the flushing procedure, rotate the converter with the drain plug removed. This will remove any residual solvent and trapped dirt. Reinstall the drain plug or plugs. Install transmission as outlined in transmission section.
SHIM THICKNESS TABLE
Location of
Housing Face
Low Point
Near one of the lower trans, to housing bolt holes.
Near one of the upper trans, to housing bolt holes.
Between the two lower trans, to housing bolt holes.
Between the two upper trans, to housing bolt holes.
Between the upper and lower trans, to housing bolt holes.
Location of
Shim
Place shim on bolt which will enter this hole.
Place shim on bolt which will enter this hole.
Place shims on both bolts which will enter these holes.
Place shims on both bolts which will enter these holes.
Place shims on both bolts which will enter these holes.
Total Indicator
Reading Observed on Housing Face
1) .005 to .010"
2) .010 to .015"
3) .015 to .020"
1) .005 to .010"
2) .010 to .015"
3) .015 to .020"
1) .005 to .010"
2) .010 to .015"
3) .015 to .020"
1) .005 to .010"
2) .010 to .015"
3) .015 to .020"
1) .005 to .010"
2) .010 to .015"
3) .015 to .020"
Total Shim
Thickness
1) .013"
2) .020"
3) .026"
1) .014"
2) .021"
3) .029"
1) .010"
2) .015"
3) .020"
1) .003"
2) .012"
3) .016"
1) upper .010" lower .014"
2) upper .015" lower .020"
3) upper .020" lower .027"
The above shims, when used in combination, will satisfy any of the required shim thickness listed in the table.
Before reinstalling transmission, check for any transmission leakage or damaged parts (seals and bushings). In most cases, the torque converter h u b oil seal should be replaced.
Tighten housing bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque. Install transmission as outlined in appropriate transmission section.
MyMopar.com
SPEEDOMETER PINION USAGE CHART
(8-TOOTH GEAR INTEGRAL WITH OUTPUT SHAFT)
AXLE RATIO-SPEEDOMETER PINION OPERATION
(INDICATING NUMBER OF PINION GEAR TEETH AND COLOR)
TIRE
SIZE
2.92:1
AND
2.93:1
3.15:1
AND
3.18:1
3.31:1
AND
3.36:1 3.54:1 3.73:1 3.90:1 3.91:1 4.1:1 4.3:1 4.56:1 4.89:1
7.50 x 14 17-Red 19-L.Purple
20-L. Blue 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow
8.00 x 14 17-Red 19-L.Purple
20-L. Blue 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow
8.50 x 14 17-Red
9.00 x 14
9.50 x 14
17-Red
17-Red
18-Black 19-L.Purple
20-L.Blue
21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow
18-Black 19-L.Purple
20-L.Blue
21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow 21-Yellow
18-Black 19-L.Purple
20-L.Blue
21-Yellow
9.50 x 15 18-Black
3
8
\
MyMopar.com
i
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT—1
Section XII
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
AND PROPELLER SHAFT
CONTENTS
Page
Servicing Cross Type Universal owuut 4
Servicing Ball and Trunnion Type Universal Joints 4
Servicing Cross and Yoke Type Propeller Shaft 6
Servicing Propeller Shaft Center Bearing 7
Rear Axle Control Strut. 7
Checking Propeller Shaft Angles 11
Service Diagnosis 11
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Town 8s Country
LC-1 LC-3 Models LC-1, 2
Propeller Shaft
Number Used
Diameter
With TorqueFlite Transmission
Diameter with Air Conditioning
And TorqueFlite Transmission
Length
Centerline to Centerline of "U" Joints
With TorqueFlite Transmission
1
3.0 in.
3.25 in.
58.96
LC-3
1
3.0 in.
3.25 in.
58.96
1
3.25 in.
3.25 in.
58.96
1
3.25 in.
3.25 in.
LY-1
2
2.75 in.
2.75 in.
58.96
63.64
MyMopar.com
2—UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT
ROLLER A N D BUSHING ASSEMBLY
ROLLER A N D BUSHING ASSEMBLY
RETAINER
CLAMP
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BUSHING RETAINER
RETAINER
CLAMP
LOCKWASHER
ROLLER DUST SEAL
DUST SEAL RETAINER
CROSS ASSEMBLY
BUSHING RETAINER
ROLLER A N D BUSHING ASSEMBLY
BOLT
ROLLER A N D BUSHING ASSEMBLY
ROLLER DUST SEAL
DUST SEAL RETAINER
55x767 A
Fig. 1— Rear Universal Joint—Cross Type (Disassembled View)
CENTERING BUTTON
BUTTON SPRING
BALL A N D ROLLERS
GREASE COVER v GASKET
PIN
NUT
THRUST WASHER BODY
BALL A N D ROLLERS
PROPELLER SHAFT
LOCKWASHER
SHAFT BOLT
BUTTON SPRING
CENTERING BUTTON
Fig. 2—Front Universal Joint—Ball and Trunnion Type (Disassembled View)
5 4 x 4 9
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT—3
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Cont'd)
LC-1,2 LC,3
Town & Country
LC-1 LC-3 LY-1 Models
Flange to Flange Length
With TorqueFlite Transmission
Lubrication
Universal Joints
Type
61.10
61.10 61.10
•PRE-PACK
(Front) Ball and Trunnion
(Rear) Cross Type
ANTI-FRICTION
61.10
64.14
Cross Type
(Only)
Bushing-Bearing Type
•Every 20,000 miles.
Section XII
UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND
PROPELLER SHAFT
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Two types of Universal Joints are used on 1958
Chrysler Models and are as follows: The Cross
Type, as shown in Figure 1, and Ball and
Trunnion Type, as shown in Figure 2.
The ball head of the Ball and Trunnion Type, is an integral part of the tubular propeller shaft and is covered by the joint body. The pin, with balls, needle bearings, thrust washers, centering button, and button spring at each end, extends through the propeller shaft ball head and rides in ball channels in the body of the joint assembly. This balanced installation is designed to absorb thrust and torque of the drive line. This type of joint is used in Chrysler
Models LC-1, 2 and 3 at front universal joint.
The Cross Type universal joint is used at
rear joint of all models, and front and center bearing joints of Imperial Models which are equipped with center bearing and two propeller shafts.
No adjustments are provided to compensate
for wear in universal joint assembly. Parts that show excessive wear must be replaced.
CAUTION
When disassembling universal joints, keep parts identified as to original position. Failure to assemble parts in their original positions may cause an unbalanced condition in the propeller shaft. Retorque mounting nuts after the initial
1,000 miles of operation.
MyMopar.com
4—UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CROSS TYPE
1. SERVICING CROSS TYPE UNIVERSAL
JOINTS (Fig. 1)
Remove propeller shaft from the vehicle. Remove two bushing retainers holding bushings in shaft yoke and remove bushings. Tilt cross so that it may be removed from propeller shaft yoke. Straighten out end of retainer lock and remove two roller and block assemblies. Remove dust seals and retainers. Inspect parts and replace parts that show wear. Lubricate roller and bushings with universal joint grease
(extreme pressure) and assemble joint in reverse order of disassembly.
BALL AND TRUNNION TYPE
2. SERVICING BALL AND TRUNNION TYPE
UNIVERSAL JOINT
To disassemble universal joint for repair or inspection of all component parts, refer to Fig.
2 and proceed as follows: Remove joint body metal cover and gasket by bending tabs of cover away from body; remove cover and gasket.
Slide body down on propeller shaft exposing two centering buttons. Remove centering buttons and spring washers from ends of trunnion pins. Slide two balls, rollers, and thrust washers off trunnion pin. Wash all parts with solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect and replace worn parts.
NOTE: Reconditioning of ball and trunnion type universal joints will only be necessary when excessive backlash exists between balls and trunnion. In some instances, it will be found that universal joint body has worn, and it will be necessary to replace all parts, including body pin, thrust washers, and centering buttons.
Worn rollers should also be replaced.
CAUTION
When installing trunnion pin in propeller shaft care should be taken to see that trunnion pin is centered in shaft. Each end of pin should protrude the same distance, with variation of no more than .003 inch. If one side of pin extends more than .003 inch farther than the other, propeller shaft will be out of balance.
Tool C-3534 (LC-1 and 2 models), Tool C-3211 on the LC-3, as shown in Figure 3, will facilitate removal, installation, and centering of trunnion pin.
Failure to observe these recommendations may result in an out-of-balance condition causing vibration.
3. UNIVERSAL JOINT MAINTENANCE
(BALL AND TRUNNION)
The universal joints, propeller shaft, and hand brake drum are accurately balanced during process of manufacture. Care should be exercised to maintain this condition of balance by close adherence to the following: Do not use more than 2% ounces of lubricant in a universal joint (ball and trunnion type) of the LC-3 and 2 ounces in the LC-1 and 2 at any time.
Keep propeller shaft, hand brake drum, flanges, etc. free from undercoating, dirt and ice.
Fig. 3-lnstalling Joint Pin
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT—5
UNIVERSAL JOINT
CENTERING PIN
PROPELLER SHAFT
4. SERVICING EXTERNAL TYPE UNIVERSAL
JOINT DUST COVER
To replace an external type universal joint dust cover (Fig. 4) that is damaged, remove propeller shaft assembly from car and clamp lightly in vise. One end of shaft should be resting on bench in a horizontal position, disassemble joint, removing all parts except body and pin. Clean body, ball head, and pin, thoroughly.
A complete coating of grease (or suitable rubber lubricant) must be smeared on outside and inside of dust cover, entire surface of ball head, pin, and inside of body. (It is very important that this instruction be followed.)
Stretch grease-soaked boot or dust cover over pin and ball head, as shown in Figure 5. Work dust cover into body as far as possible.
UNIVERSAL JOINT UNIVERSAL JOINT BODY
DUST COVER OR
BOOT 49x910
Fig. 5-Sliding Cover Over Ball Head and Fin
LC-1 and 2) and assemble balls to pin. Install cover.
Install shaft, using new lockwashers. Be sure to double check flange bolts for tightness, to insure against grease leakage. Recheck after
1,000 miles of operation.
CAUTION
USE NO TOOLS FOR THIS OPERATION.
With body in. position so pin can enter ball channels, pull body sharply over pin, thereby forcing dust cover into body. With one hand, grip end of dust cover, protruding through back end of body. With other hand, pump body back and forth, as shown in Figure 6, until entire dust cover has passed through body. During operation cone may have reversed itself inside dust cover. Pull it out to its normal position.
Insert 2y
2
ounces of heavy fiber, universal joint grease in joint of LC-3 (2 ounces in the
CAUTION
Never attempt to use a needle-like arrangement for forcing lubricant into boot (or dust cover) on universal joints. Excessive grease can be forced into boot and cause shaft to be thrown but of balance, burst boot, or lubricant can be lost through injection hole during high speed operation. The joints must be disassembled and packed with universal joint grease.
Fig. 4—External Type Dust Cover
55x766
Fig. 6 - W o r k i n g Dust Cover Through Body
MyMopar.com
6—UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CROSS AND YOKE TYPE PROPELLER SHAFT
5. SERVICING CROSS AND YOKE TYPE
PROPELLER SHAFT (Fig. 7)
(Imperial Models) a. Removal
Remove nuts, lockwashers and bolts holding universal joint and propeller shaft to differential and transmission companion flanges and center bearing to frame crossmember. Remove propeller shaft assembly.
damaged as necessary.
c. Assembly
Lubricate all parts before assembling. If splined joint at rear of front propeller shaft has been disassembled, fill cavity with one ounce (by weight) of MS 1124. The center bearing is a sealed bearing and does not require lubrication. Install dust shields and retainers on cross.
Press cross roller bearing and bushing assembly into yoke with cross in proper location.
b. Disassembly
Place assembly in bench vise and remove splined yoke cross bushing retainers. Press out bushings and remove cross from yoke. Remove bearing blocks, dust seals, and dust seal retainers. Remove retainers from cross roller bearings. Press out bearings and cross. Remove dust seals and retainers from cross. The cross roller bearing block and its component parts, also form an assembly. These parts are not serviced separately. After disassembly, clean and inspect parts and replace those worn or
CAUTION
Make certain that all of roller bearings are correctly placed in roller bushing. Also, be sure balance arrows are in alignment (Fig. 7 ) .
d. Installation
Place propeller shaft in its correct position under car. Make certain that slip-spline end of shaft is located toward front of car. Insert attaching screws and tighten securely.
BUSHING SEAL
.RETAINER
HOUSING
BEARING
SLINGER
SHAFT
SPACER
Fig, 7—Propeller Shaft and Center Bearing Assembly (Disassembled View)
56x320
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
6. SERVICING PROPELLER SHAFT CENTER
BEARING (Figure 7)
The center bearing and housing must be removed as a unit, together with front propeller shaft, for servicing.
CAUTION
Do not extend two piece center bearing pro-
UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT—7 peller shaft to its full length. The seal may be damaged by the splines on universal joint yoke.
With yoke all the way into front propeller shaft, bend up tang on dust seal cover. Remove cover, seal, lock and dust slinger and remove center bearing assembly. Inspect bearing, bracket, seal. Replace necessary parts and reassemble.
REAR AXLE CONTROL STRUT
The 1958 Imperials are designed with two propeller shafts and a propeller shaft center bearing, as shown in Fig. 8. Conditions may arise under certain passenger loads which may create a propeller shaft shudder or vibration at speeds of 15 to 20 miles per hour.
In order to control this shudder or vibration, a rear axle control strut, as shown in Figure
9, has been incorporated in rear axle design for purpose of controlling rise of nose of rear axle carrier under varying load conditions.
Corrections of propeller shaft shudder should be made as follows: Before diagnosing a shudder condition, make sure engine has been tuned and is operating smoothly with no hesitation or stumble on accelerator.
With fuel tank approximately % full, determine under what speed and passenger load a shudder is present and if shudder is light, moderate or heavy. Check the indexing of universal joints and propeller shaft assembly, as shown in Figure 7. The letter "0" on front
NOTE: A rough engine can aggravate or produce a shudder.
FRONT PROPELLER
SHAFT ASSEMBLY SEAL NUT LOCK
FRAME BRACKET
57x311
I HOUSING BRACKET
Fig. 9—Rear Axle Control Strut
CENTER BEARING
OIL SLINGER
REAR PROPELLER
SHAFT ASSEMBLY
56x242
Fig. 8—Center Bearing Installed Fig. 10—Differential Carrier Bumper Plate
MyMopar.com
8—UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 11—Indexing Gauge Installed face of spline should be lined up with key slot at rear of front shaft.
Place car on platform with weight of vehicle on rear wheels. With fuel tank between % and full and weight of vehicle on wheels, remove differential carrier rebound bumper plate, Figure 10.
Working from the left side of car, place and index the aligning gauge Tool J-6845 on the machine pads of the differential carrier, as shown in Figure 11.
Adjust bubble of gauge to show zero or level position. With zero remaining in the level position, remove gauge from differential housing and install gauge along the underside of rear propeller shaft as shown in Figure 12.
With gauge properly located under shaft
(with level readable from the left side of shaft,
Fig. 12), note the location of the leading edge of bubble in level gauge; if bubble is still at zero or level position or within three gradua-
58x702
Fig. 13—Checking Propeller-Shaft Angle tion marks fore or aft, rear axle joint angle is within specifications and should be considered standard adjustment.
If leading edge of bubble is forward of the third graduation, the propeller shaft angle should be corrected by placing a 2 degree taper.ed shim between the rear axle housing pads and both rear springs with the thick end of shim towards the front of car.
NOTE: To install shim the rear spring "U" bolts should be loosened just enough to allow for installation of tapered shim without misalignment of spring center bolt and housing pad.
To allow the differential carrier to reposition itself or assume the new angularity after installation of tapered shims between housing pad and rear spring, the control strut frame
Fig. 12—Indexing Gauge Under Shaft
58x701
Fig. 14—Gauge Adapter Installed
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT—9
to bracket bolts should be loosened to unload the strut.
Reshim strut bracket after installing tapered shim between rear axle housing pads and rear spring.
To check the center propeller shaft angle, refer to Figure 13 and proceed as follows:
Index the aligning gauge squarely under the rear propeller shaft and reset level to zero
(Fig. 14).
Install front propeller shaft adapter on front shaft with pins of adapter pointing towards the left of car, (Fig. 14). Locate gauge to adapter on front shaft making sure that locating pins are placed squarely on adapter and gauge, (Fig. 15).
Note the location of leading edge of bubble in level. For each graduation the leading edge of bubble is forward of the center, (Figure 16) add a shim beneath the center bearing support bracket.
For each graduation the trailing edge of the bubble is to the rear of center in level, (Fig.
17) subtract or remove one shim from beneath center bearing support bracket.
NOTE: Always recheck center joint working angle, after shimming center joint working angle.
To check propeller shaft alignment with protractor proceed as follows:
Measure rear universal joint working angle.
This angle should be 1 to 3 degrees at zero
ADD SHIMS
58x705
Fig. 16—Bubble Location (Forward of Center) passenger load. Reasonable care must be exercised to obtain accuracy of this measurement.
NOTE: If car is located on a hoist that supports rear of car on axle housing, the angle of the universal joints will be influenced.
If measured angle is not 1 to 3 degrees, correction should be made by shimming axle with
2° taper shim. After rear universal joint angle has been adjusted as near to two degrees as possible, measure middle universal joint working angle. This working angle should be
1% degrees (more or less) with the apex upward, for rear universal joint angle of two degrees at zero passenger load.
For other angles, see table below:
Rear Joint
1
2
TABLE
Middle Joint
1%°
3
3%
1°
The middle universal joint angle is adjusted by adding or removing shims between center
58x704
Fig. 15—Indexing Gauge to Adapter
SUBTRACT SHIMS
58x706
Fig. 17-Bubble Location (Rear of Center)
MyMopar.com
10—UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT
FRONT JOINT CENTER
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
MIDDLE JOINT
CENTER
REAR JOINT CENTER
2°
" * PINION
SHAFT
CENTER
HORIZONTAL
OR
FLOOR LINE
FRONT SHAFT
REAR SHAFT
57x312
Fig. 18—Determining Working Angles—Front and Rear Propeller Shaft bearing insulator and crossmember. Adding i/
8 inch shim will increase middle universal joint angle about i/
2
degrees; likewise, removing i/
8 inch shim will reduce angle about 14 degree.
In measuring the angles of front and rear propeller shafts and the pinion shaft, a spirit level protractor must be used to determine amount the shafts are below horizontal (or the end of the shaft is pointing down). Determine working angles, as shown in Figure 18.
Since adjacent shafts are pointing in different directions (up or down) when viewed in same direction (from front to rear of car) the working angles are obtained by adding the angles below horizontal. Therefore, the middle joint working angle as shown in Figure 18, is 2° and the rear joint working angle is 3°.
If the adjacent shafts were pointing in the same direction then the angles below horizontal
Fig. 20—Checking Rear Propeller Shaft Angles would be subtracted to obtain the joint working angle.
If large number of shims must be added or removed at center bearing, rear universal joint angle should be rechecked to be assured that it has not been appreciably altered from two degrees.
When these adjustments have been made, the least amount of propeller shaft shudder should occur at a loading of two passengers. If, after road testing, it is desirable to obtain the least amount of propeller shaft shudder at large pas-
Fig. 19—Checking Front Propeller Shaft Angles Fig. 21—Checking Companion Flange Angle
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL UNIVERSAL JOINTS & PROPELLER SHAFT—11 senger loading, center bearing must be raised slightly by means of shimming. Lowering center bearing will move point of least shudder to a lower passenger loading.
7. CHECKING PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLES
Locate car over pit with wheels supporting car.
Check universal joint angles with a spirit level protractor, as shown in Figures 19 and 20.
Measure angles of front propeller shaft, middle propeller shaft, and rear axle pinion drive shaft flange.
The rear axle drive pinion shaft flange angle should be obtained by removal of rear end of rear propeller shaft, and measuring angle of front face of companion flange, as shown in
Figure 21.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
8. PROPELLER SHAFT VIBRATES a. If propeller shaft, drum and flange are not shielded while car is being undercoated, the undercoating material may accumulate on underside of propeller shaft and cause vibration. To remedy such a condition, inspect shaft and remove undercoating material (if present) with solvent.
b. Check transmission flange nuts and rear axle differential flange nuts for looseness.
Tighten to Data and Specifications.
c. Check alignment of balance arrows on both shaft and front universal joint. These arrows must be exactly in line. If not, reposition splines so that arrows are properly aligned.
9. UNIVERSAL IOINTS NOISY a. Check universal joint for possible damage and tighten propeller shaft flange bolts to
Data and Specifications.
b. Disassemble universal joints and inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as required, pack bearings with universal joint grease and reassemble.
c. Inspect universal joint bearings for wear and replace as necessary.
d. Check for flange runout. In many instances, it is possible to correct a flange runout condition by repositioning universal joint
180 degrees with companion flange. Reposition only one universal joint at a time and road test car after each repositioning operation.
e. Check splines. If excessively loose, inspect splines on shaft or in flange for wear or damage. Replace shaft or flange, as necessary, to correct condition.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
WHEELS AND TIRES—1
Section XIII
WHEELS AND TIRES
CONTENTS
Page
Checking Wheels for Eccentricity 3
Balancing Wheels and Tire Assemblies 3
Tubeless Tires 4
Testing Tire and Wheel Assemblies for Leakage 5
Repairing Punctures 5
Recommended Tire Pressures 6
Captive-Air Safety Tire 7
Service Diagnosis 11
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
LC-1 LC-2 LC-3 MODELS
WHEELS
Type
Rim
Size
Flange Type
No. of Nuts to Attach Wheel
Stud Hole Circle (diameter).
Stud Size
Steel Disc
Drop Center-Safety Wheel
LY-1
MyMopar.com
2—WHEELS AND TIRES
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (Cont'd)
MODELS
TIRES
Type
Cord Material
Size
TIRE PRESSURE
Pounds — Cold — Front
Rear
LC-1
Rayon
8.00 x 14
LG-2 LG-3
Super Soft Cushion Tnhfilpss
Rayon
8.50 x 14
Rayon
9.00 x 14
LY-1
Rayon
9.50 x 14
24
22
22
22
TOWN AND COUNTRY WAGON
22
22
22
22
Two Seater Three Seater Two Seater Three Seater
LC-1 LC-1 LG-3 LG-3
WHEELS
Type
Rim
Size
Flange Type
No. of Nuts to Attach Wheel
Stud Hole Circle (diameter)
Stud Size
14x6
K
5
TIRES
Type
Cord Material
Size
Super Soft
Cushion
Tubeless
Rayon
8.50 x 14
TIRE PRESSURE
Pounds — Cold — Front 24
Rear.
24*
*28 lbs. when carrying heavy load on rear only.
Drop Center—Safety Wheel
K K
H-20
Captive
Air
Nylon
8.50 x 14
24
24*
Steel Disc
1 4 x 6 ^
5
Super Soft
Cushion
Tubeless
Rayon
9.00 x 14
22
22*
14x6^
K
5
J4-20
Captive
Air
Nylon
9.00 x 14
22
22*
MyMopar.com
WHEELS AND TIRES—3 CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Section XIII
WHEELS AND TIRES
WHEELS
1. SAFETY RIM WHEELS
The wheel rim incorporates a special safetyfeature to give added protection in case of a blowout or rapid deflation of the tire while the car is in motion. It is a raised section between the rim flange and the rim well, as shown in "A" of Figure 1. Inflation of the tire snaps the tire bead over this raised section and out against the flange. The force required to pull the bead back over this raised portion tends to keep the tire out against the flange even though rapid deflation occurs.
face of wheel, as shown in Figure 2 slowly rotate wheel and note the total runout. Mark high and low spots and the amount on wheel.
If radial runout of wheel exceeds .045 inch, replace the wheel.
NOTE: Do not check runout on outside of wheel rim since this method can easily give a false reading.
4. CHECKING WHEEL FOR WOBBLE
(LATERAL RUNOUT)
2. TIGHTENING WHEEL HUB NUTS
Tighten wheel hub nuts evenly while tire is off ground. Lower tire to ground to tighten nuts securely. Make sure these nuts are tight.
3. CHECKING WHEELS FOR ECCENTRICITY
Before checking a wheel or wobble (lateral runout), make sure tire is properly mounted.
Mount a dial indicator on firm base, with anvil of indicator resting against the flange of wheel. Rotate the wheel. If lateral runout is more than i/g inch. (.125), straighten or replace wheel.
Dismount tire and test with wheel mounted on brake drum. Position dial indicator on firm surface to prevent deflection. With the anvil of indicator bearing on the inner tire bead sur-
5. BALANCING WHEEL AND
TIRE ASSEMBLIES
Proper balance of wheel and tire assemblies promotes smooth steering action and is a safeguard against vibration and front end shake.
To check front wheels for balance, place jack under center of front of car and raise both
INNER
SURFACE
OUTER
SURFACE
Fig. 1—Safety Type Rim
54 x 364A
TOTAL RUNOUT
MUST N O T EXCEED .045'
55x115
Fig. 2—If Radial Runout Exceeds .045 inch, replace Wheel
MyMopar.com
4—WHEELS AND TIRES
front wheels off floor. Do not place jack under lower control arms as this will tend to minimize vibration.
NOTE: Remove caked mud or tar from wheel so that balance condition will not be affected.
Using a spinner, rotate the wheel at a higher rate of speed than that encountered in actual highway driving. Place crumpled cloth or towel on front fender above center of wheel. Rotate the wheel up to high speeds. The wheel will vibrate profusely, if it is out of balance. If wheel is in balance, there will be no vibration at any speed.
If wheel is out of balance, mount it on master drum of wheel balancer to determine the proper location and amount of weight needed, or use wheel balancing equipment which checks balance with wheel on car. With this type of
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL equipment, the balancing mechanism is clamped to the wheel assembly. When location and size of weights needed to balance wheel are determined, divide the amount and attach half of weight to inner rim and the other half to the outer rim of wheel.
To check balance of rear wheels, place jack under frame side rail about 12 inches forward of rear spring front hanger. Raise one wheel off the floor at a time. Block the other wheel.
Place a crumpled cloth or towel on fender above wheel. With the engine running and transmission in direct drive, spin the wheels through speed ranges of 20, 30 and 40 miles per hour.
Do not exceed 40 miles per hour on the speedometer.
The balance is correct if the cloth or towel does not vibrate. If wheel and tire assembly is out of balance, check with wheel balancing equipment and attach weights as needed.
6. TUBELESS TIRES
The Tubeless Tires provide longer life and added protection against blowouts and punctures. A puncture can be repaired by using the repair plugs and other materials in the Tubeless Tire Repair Kit. Refer to Paragraph 10, for puncture repair procedures.
TIRES
7. DISMOUNTING TIRES
Remove tire and wheel. Deflate tire. When dismounting, do not use hammer or tire irons to loosen sealing bead from flange.
8. MOUNTING TIRES
Clean rim flanges and bead seats with wire
57x24
Fig. 3—Constricting Centerline of Tire with Mechanical Tool
Fig. 4—Constricting Centerline of Tire with Rope Tourniquet
57x25
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL brush or steel wool. Install valve stem from inside the rim. The rubber stems snap into valve stem hole.
Apply MOPAR Ruglyde (or mixture of 12 parts water and one part liquid soap) to the tire beads to facilitate mounting. Mount the inside and outside in the usual manner. Make sure the tire irons do not have sharp or burred edges and work with care to avoid damaging the tire beads.
Apply a blast of air, after tire is mounted on rim. If beads do not seat sufficiently to hold the pressure, spread by constricting the centerline of tread with a tire mounting band, as shown in Figures 3 and 4 or a rope tourniquet.
To make a tourniquet around the tires use one or more turns of rope. Tighten by twisting rope with tire tool, and pound on tread at various places to evenly distribute the tension.
When the tire beads seat, remove the mounting band or rope tourniquet.
CAUTION
Release tension on mounting band or rope tourniquet when inflation takes effect and before pressure begins to build up.
Install valve core and inflate tire to recommended pressure. Test tire and wheel assembly for leakage, in Paragraph 9.
9. TESTING THE TIRE AND WHEEL
ASSEMBLY FOR LEAKAGE
When testing for leakage, do not remove tire from rim. Examine tire carefully for puncturing object. If tire is flat, inflate and listen for first air leak. If air leakage is slow and cannot be heard, remove tire from car and submerge in water test tank.
Apply a soap solution, if test tank is not available, covering surface of tire, the valve stem, and the juncture of tire and rim flange.
A slow leak will be indicated by an accumulation of soap bubbles.
10. REPAIRING PUNCTURES a. Tire on Wheel (Outside Method)
Simple punctures can usually be repaired with tire mounted on wheel, using items in repair kit, (Fig. 5). The operation can best be per-
WHEELS AND TIRES—5
58x403
Fig. 5-Tire Repair Kit formed when tire is flat. It can also be accomplished while tire is inflated.
Remove the puncturing object. Dip needle inserting tool in the cement provided in repair kit, and carefully probe in hole to determine its direction. After direction of hole is determined, continue to probe until the rubber around the hole is well covered with cement, as shown in Figure 6.
CAUTION
If the needle appears to be blocked, do not force it into hole as otherwise, an additional hole may be made, and two holes will be difficult to seal. Twist and turn needle to find the hole, if needle does not insert freely.
Select a repair plug according to size of hole.
The repair plug should have a diameter about twice the size of hole, because soft rubber will stretch when inserted with needle. Roll small end of repair plug into "eye" of needle, % inch
Fig. 6—Lubricating Puncture with Cement
MyMopar.com
6—WHEELS AND TIRES
Fig. 7—Inserting Needle and Plug in Puncture from end of the plug, as shown in Figure 7.
Dip repair plug and needle into cement, and immediately insert in hole with a firm, steady motion, until short end of repair plug snaps through tire, as shown in Figure 8. Pull needle straight out of hole. The plug will automatically unhook from the needle as this is done.
Trim plug about Vs i n c n
above tread of tire.
Inflate tire, check for leakage, and tire is ready for use.
The portion of plug, which protrudes slightly above the tire tread, will wear down to the tread surface. The portion of the plug inside the tire will not affect normal operation.
b. Tire Off Wheel (Inside Method)
When the tire has been punctured by an irreg-
54 x 386A
Fig. 8—Plug and Needle in Puncture (Sectional View)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL ularly-shaped object, a slow leak may occur at the repair after an attempt has been made to seal the opening with a repair plug. If such is the case, repair as follows: Place tire in a spreader. Trim the inside end of repair plug flush with the liner, and buff the liner approximately one inch around the puncture. Leave the repair plug in hole to keep moisture out of the tire fabric. If a repair plug is not in tire, work a little extra repair gum into the hole before applying the patch. It is not necessary to use cement to obtain a good adhesion.
Two types of equipment are available for curing inside patches—the Electric and the
Match Patch. The Electric type has a "fuse" plug that automatically cuts off the power when the curing is completed. The Match Patch, or powder burning type, depends upon the heat resulting from a slow fire. "C" clamps are used with both types of equipment to apply pressure during the curing process. All inside patches used must be Hot Patches. Peel the strip from the rubber patch on the metal curing plate and center it over puncture. Follow instructions provided with the equipment, apply pressure, and cure the patch.
11. CLEANING WHITE SIDEWALL TIRES
CAUTION
A protective, water-soluble coating is applied to the white sidewalls of tires at the factory. Wash the sidewalls with water ONLY to remove this coating. DO NOT USE gasoline or a wire brush.
To clean white sidewall tires, use a good kitchen cleanser and a stiff brush. Do not use gasoline or any wire, metal, brush, etc. as they will scratch the sidewalls.
12. RECOMMENDED TIRE PRESSURES
The tires must receive proper care to insure maximum tire life. Under-inflation contributes to wear and causes excessive heat. Over-inflation causes excessive strain and, as a result, the tire is subject to break or bruise. Tire pressure should be checked at least once a week.
Consult data and Specifications for correct tire pressures. Tire pressures will increase approximately 3 psi in city driving and 5 psi for country driving. NEVER BLEED BUILT UP
PRESSURE IN A TIRE.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
CAUTION
Alawys use an accurate gauge when checking tire pressure. An inaccurate gauge can be in error as much as 2 or 3 pounds, which is approximately 10 per cent of the recommended tire pressure.
Make sure the valve caps are tight, after checking tire pressure.
13. TIRE ROTATION
Rotating tires at intervals of 3,000 miles is the only known method of controlling certain types of tire wear. Tire life (Fig. 9) can be increased as much as 25 per cent by regularly rotating the tires, including the spare.
14. CAPTIVE—AIR SAFETY TIRE (Fig. 10)
NOTE: The captive-air safety tire is used on the three seat Town and Country wagon only.
The captive-air safety tire is actually a tire within a tire, forming two air chambers. The inner chamber is known as the shield and the outer chamber the tire. Basically, the shield and tire form two independent air chambers, one enclosing the other. If the outer chamber is collapsed, the inner chamber remains inflated and intact.
IMPORTANT: When outer chamber of tire is deflated, it is recommended that continued driv-
LEFT FRONT RIGHT FRONT
LEFT
REAR
RIGHT
REAR
57X23
VISIBLE j f
M O U N T I N G '
GUIDE
SIDEWALL
VALVE
WHEELS AND TIRES—7
57x543
Fig. 10—Captive-Air Safety Tire (Sectional View) ing speed should not exceed 40 M.P.H. until tire has been repaired.
15. RIM PREPARATION
Scrape off all rust flakes and clean rim flanges and bead seats with a wire brush or steel wool.
To prevent leakage, badly rusted pitted rims should be heavily coated with vulcanizing cement to fill the rust cavities. Install tubeless tire valve.
16. INSTALLING THE SAFETY SHIELD
With tire flat on the floor, insert the safety shield into tire and set the molded channel shaped edge over the top tire bead. Smooth out wrinkles and distribute uniformly by working and rubbing the bead channels by hand until the shield wing is set firmly and smoothly against the tire bead. Turn the tire over and repeat the same procedure on the second bead.
17. LUBRICATION
Apply a liberal coating of soapy water (made of high grade soap flakes or vegetable oil soap and water to consistency of paste) to the outer bead surfaces (flange and base) of the safety shield and also to the corresponding surface of rim.
CAUTION
Do not use detergents or any substance that might be harmful or injurious to rubber or rim surface. Use care not to let soap get between the tire bead and safety shield.
MyMopar.com
8—WHEELS AND TIRES
NEEDLE
COVER
57x544
Fig. 11-Captive-Air Safety Tire Inflating Needle
18. MOUNTING THE TIRE
When mounting tire with a tire changing machine, use care to avoid wrinkling, tearing or cutting the flange of the safety shield. Motor driven attachment should not be used.
When mounting with tire irons, work the beads over the rim flange carefully in short sections. Make sure the shield is properly seated on the first bead before starting the second bead over the rim flange. Should the captive-air safety shield slip off either tire bead while mounting, it can be repositioned after the tire bead is in the rim well.
19. INFLATION
IMPORTANT
Insert the inflating needle into tire sidewall valve full length (Figs. 11 and 12).
With valve core in the rim valve, apply air pressure. If the beads do not contact the rim bead ledge sufficiently to catch the pressure, use a bead expanding device as used on tubeless tires.
Inflate the safety shield through rim valve to desired pressure. Inflate outer compartment through sidewall inflating valve to desired pressure. Inflating valve may tilt down toward rim when the safety shield is inflated, in which case air should be introduced with sidewall valve in this tilted position.
Should additional pressure be required to
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL seat tire beads firmly against rim flanges, apply it to the outer compartment and then release to the desired operating pressure through the needle valve in the tire sidewall.
Under this procedure, pressure in the inner compartment will be 2 or 3 pounds above original inflation, which provides a reserve that will filter slowly through the walls of the safety shield to replenish a slight pressure drop in the outer compartment resulting from tire growth during the first few days a new tire is in service.
If tire beads do not seat against the rim flange at 40 lbs. inflation pressure, deflate tire and relubricate safety shield and readjust tire for better centering to remove any binding action that may have taken place.
CAUTION
BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF BREAKING
TIRE BEADS, DO NOT USE MORE THAN
40 LBS. INFLATION PRESSURE FOR SEAT-
ING THE TIRE BEADS AGAINST THE RIM
FLANGES.
When safety shields are properly mounted and locked on the rim, the mounting guides or small rubber beads on the edges of the shields will be visible and uniform around both sides of the tire at the top edge of the rim flange.
If mounting guides are not visible around both sides of the tire, deflate the tire and loosen the beads from the rim to permit readjustment of the safety shield.
[57x545
Fig. 12-lnserting Inflating Needle into Sidewall
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
This condition may be caused by the following :
Insufficient lubrication. Safety shield not distributed uniformly on tire beads. Tire beads started to seat on rim unevenly. Wide tire beads which the safety shield does not fit properly. Excessive amount of rubber on the toe of the tire bead.
NOTE: Excessive rubber on the toe of tire beads may be trimmed off with sharp knife or special bead trimming knife using care to avoid cutting into the fabric in the tire bead.
20. TESTING FOR LEAKS
Test for leaks in same manner as tubeless tires.
NOTE: When tire is submerged in water or treated with soap and water solution, occasionally a small amount of air trapped between the safety shield flanges and the tire beads will escape for a short period while the beads are seating against the rim flanges.
21. PRESSURE CHECK
2 or 3 days after original assembly of the tire on the wheel, pressure checks taken through the rim valve represent the pressure contained in both compartments.
This condition results from slow filtration of air through the walls of the safety shield until the pressure is equalized in both compartments.
22. AIR REPLENISHMENT
Under normal conditions where the air pressure is not more than 4 pounds under the desired operating pressure, replenishment air is added through the rim valve into the safety shield only.
In such cases the inner compartment should be inflated to double the amount required to restore the desired operating pressure.
EXAMPLE:
Should the pressure check taken through the rim valve be 18 lbs., and the desired operating pressure is 22 lbs., the inner compartment should be inflated to 26 pounds.
WHEELS AND TIRES—9
Slow filtration of air through the safety shield in 4 or 5 hours, will result in relieving the inner compartment of the over-inflation strains with return to normal size as the inflation of the two compartments approaches equalization.
In cases where more than 4 lbs. pressure is required to restore desired operating pressures, air replenishment should be made through both rim valve and tire sidewall valve to the desired operating pressure.
Needle valve should always be lubricated with glycerin before insertion. Use the glycerin contained in the padding inside the case in which the valve is supplied. If inflation valve does not insert easily into tire sidewall because of contact with inflated inner chamber, tilt inflating valve slightly toward rim.
23. DISMOUNTING
Remove valve core from rim valve to permit escape of all air from safety shield.
Deflation of the outer compartment will not be required for dismounting after the safety shield has been deflated, for only a few pounds of air pressure will be retained in the outer compartment. Remove tire in same manner as tubeless tires.
NOTE: Use standard head unseating tools (do not use hammer or tire irons ) to loosen the tire beads from the bead seats, then apply a liberal coating of soapy water lubricant to the head surfaces of the shield and the outside rim flange.
24. REPAIRING
If tires containing safety shields are punctured by objects (nails, etc.) of considerable length, continued operation with the puncturing object remaining in the tire may result in puncture or damage to the safety shield.
When puncturing objects 1% inch or more in length are found in tire, the tire should be dismounted and the safety shield examined for possible damage which would require repair for restoring complete blowout protection.
Punctured safety shields may be repaired by the following procedure:
Trim the ragged edges of the injury so that all corners have a rounded shape. Buff lightly
MyMopar.com
10—WHEELS AND TIRES
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 13-Under-lnflation Wear
Fig. 16-Toe-Out Wear
Fig. 14—Spotty Wear
! 57x31
Fig. 17—Camber Wear
57x32
Fig. 15—Toe-In Wear
57x33
Fig. 18—Over-Inflation
! • . ' * 157x36
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL with hand wire brush or medium grit emerycloth and wash with rubber solvent, 2 inches in all directions from the edges of the injury, on both inside and outside surfaces of the safety shield.
Apply one coat of quick cure vulcanizing cement 1 inch in all directions from the edge of the injury on the inside surface of the safety shield and % inch from the edges of the injury on the outside surface. Permit cement to dry 15 to 20 minutes. Then apply a patch of %
6
gauge quick cure tube repair gum to the inside surface. Cut gum to extend 1 inch in all directions from the edges of the injury and stitch tightly to the shield.
Apply a patch of %
2
" gauge quick cure tube repair gum to the outside surface of the safety shield. Cut gum to extend y% inch in all directions from the edges of the injury and stitch tightly to the safety shield.
Vulcanizing procedures are similar to those for curing inner tubes. Clamp repaired safety shield onto Holland covered hot plate and cure
WHEELS AND TIRES—11
8 minutes at 307 degrees F. (60 lbs. steam), with inside of the shield against the hot plate.
Electrically heated or powder burning patches and equipment may also be used for repairing safety shields. Cure patches of the proper size on the inside and outside surface of the safety shield as outlined above, with the heat generation unit against the inside surface of the shield.
25. REPLACEMENT
Used in severe service, captive-air safety shields may, on occasion, be chafed through one or both plies in the areas which cover the base of the tire bead. In such cases, the shield should be removed from service and replaced with a new one.
When captive-air safety shields are removed to replace tire or for tire inspection, etc., inspect the outside surface of the bead channels and safety shield surface for chafing or excessive wear. If no fabric chafing is apparent, safety shields may be reapplied for further use.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
26. LEAKAGE CAUSES AND
CORRECTIVE METHODS
Valve Leak—This type of leak is usually indicated by bubbles at the valve stem after soap solution is applied at this point. Make sure that the rim is clean around the valve hole. If a "snap-in" type rubber valve leaks, it must be replaced.
Rim Leaks—If the leak is at the top of rim flange (between flange and tire bead, mark location of leak on tire and rim, and dismount tire).
Rusty Rim—Remove rust with scraper and finish the operation with wire brush or steel wool. Apply MOPAR Rubber Cement thickly to tire and rim flange. Mount tire to rim while cement is still wet.
Foreign Material Embedded In Sealing
Grooves of Rim—Remove with wire brush or screwdriver blade. Apply MOPAR Rubber Cement thickly to the cleared area, and mount tire while cement is wet.
Bent Flange—Inspect flanges of wheel to determine if they are bent. A bent flange can be straightened if damage is not too severe.
Cracked Welds—Cover weld area with soap solution and check for pin hole leak. If leak is evident, repair or replace wheel as necessary.
(DO NOT WELD RIM.)
Heavy Rim Weld—A slow leak may result if rim weld has not been dressed down. Use a flat file to smooth off the weld in the flange area. Apply MOPAR Rubber Cement in the area to help "make" the seal.
Cracked Rim—A rim seldom cracks unless
it has been welded or badly overloaded. Do not try to repair a welded rim, install a new wheel.
MyMopar.com
12—WHEELS AND TIRES
27. TIRE THUMP
Tire thump is a pounding action that occurs each time a tire rotates. In most instances, tire thump is evident at speeds under 45 miles per hour on a smooth road, and is usually restricted to a small speed range. If the thump is slight and difficult to detect, the condition may be considered acceptable, and tire life will not be affected.
When checking for cause of tire thump, inspect all tires for uneven wear, and make sure the beads of all tires are properly seated in the wheel rims. Inflate all tires to 50 pounds pressure. This will eliminate or reduce thump, if it is due to tire irregularities.
Drive the car on a smooth road. If the thump still occurs while the tires are inflated to 50 pounds, the condition is caused by factors, such as brake drum circle eccentric in relation to center line of axle, wheel retaining bolt circle eccentric in relation to the wheel rim, large patch in tire, or excessive universal joint angularity can cause a condition similar to tire thump or roughness. However, if thump disappears when tires are inflated to 50 pounds pressure, make the following test:
Deflate one tire to 25 pounds and drive car on smooth road. If thump appears, the deflated tire is at fault. Repeat test until all tires, including spare, have been checked. Only one tire at a time should be deflated to 25 pounds pressure for testing. Reinflate the tire already tested before proceeding to the next tire.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
NOTE
Sometimes, a thumping tire will operate satisfactorily when changed from one side of the car to the other. This changes the direction of the tire's rotation. In severe cases of tire thump, it may be necessary to replace the tires in question.
28. TIRE WEAR
Inflate tires to proper pressure recommended in Data and Specifications. (Refer to Fig. 13).
When tires are under-inflated, excessive wear occurs at the two tread ribs next to the inner and outer shoulder ribs. Wear occurs at center of tread when tire is driven over-inflated.
a. Spotty Wear (Fig. 14) usually becomes evident on front tires when tires are not rotated every 3,000 miles.
b. Excessive toe-in or toe-out (Figs. 15 and
16) of front wheels affects the rate of tire wear more than any other factor.
c. (Refer to Fig. 17). Excessive positive camber will develop noticeable wear on the outer ribs of tires. Excessive negative camber will result in noticeable wear on the inside ribs.
d. Check for wheel wobble. Straighten or replace wheel, if necessary.
e. Check for worn ball joints. Replace as necessary.
f. Check for wear caused by sustained high speed driving, and driving around corners too fast.
g. Check for over-inflation (Fig. 18).
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL BODY AND SHEET METAL—1
Section XIV
BODY, BODY WIRING AND
SHEET METAL
INCLUDING TOWN AND COUNTRY WAGON
CONTENTS
Page
Body Maintenance 3
Fitting Doors 7
Two-Door Hardtop Models 11
Front Door Hinge Adjustments 13
Rear Door Hinge Adjustments 14
Body Alignment : 17
Body Panel Replacement 19
Removal and Installation of Door Glass 23
Removal and Installation of Door Lock Cylinder 25
Removal and Installation of Windshield Glass 26
Front Fenders (All Models) . . 31
Removal and Installation of Radiator Grille and Bumper Assembly (All Models) 34
Maintenance 34
Cleaning of Interior Upholstery 37
Paint Finish Conditions 38
Body Sealing 39
Cowl Sealing 41
Windshield Sealing 43
Roof Sealing 45
Door Openings 47
Front Door Vent Window 53
Rear Quarter Vent 57
Rear Window 60
Rear Quarter Panel 61
Luggage Compartment 61
Floor Panel 64
Town and Country Wagon (Sealing) 64
Tail Gate Glass Run Channel 68
Quarter Glass and Slide Windows 70
Convertible Coupe Top 70
Adjusting the Top 71
Servicing the Top 72
Servicing the Town and Country Wagon 75
Tail Gate 75
Instrument Panel and Body Wiring 77
MyMopar.com
2—BODY AND SHEET METAL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
HEATER
O P E N I N G
C O W L VENT
SILL
D I A G O N A L BRACES
ROOF PANEL \ REAR FLOOR f A N DECK LID
REAR QUARTER PANEL
COWL BRACES "B" POST
..A..
B r t C T
FRONT FLOOR PAN
COWL PANEL
A P O 5 T
Fig. 1-Basic Body Construction (LC-1, LC-2, LC-3 Models)
HEATER
O P E N I N G
COWL VENT
SILL
ROOF PANEL WELDED JOINT
REAR DECK
57x572
REAR QUARTER PANEL
COWL BRACES
FRONT FLOOR PAN
\ " A " POST
COWL PANEL
Fig. 2-Basic Body Construction (LY-1 Imperial)
57x573
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BODY AND SHEET METAI^-3
Section XIV
BODY, BODY WIRING AND
SHEET METAL
1. BODY MAINTENANCE
BODY
and serviceability. See Figures 1 and 2 for basic body construction of these bodies.
The following structural body features are incorporated in the 1958 Chrysler Model cars:
Heavier section center posts for added body rigidity, box section construction roof rails, windshield and rear window headings to impart added strength to upper body superstructure.
Body bolt inspection and tightening should be performed regularly. All models of the Chrysler and Imperial have 12 body bolts, except the convertible which has 14.
Stiffness welded to underside of floor pan to minimize vibration. A metal-to-metal welded lap joint to eliminate dust and water from body. Diagonal braces behind the rear seats with quarter panel welded to floor pan forming a box section structure to increase body rigidity. The new step-down sill construction, life guard door latches and six-way power seat adjustment contributes to body safety, comfort
If tightening bolts and screws located on such assemblies as deck lid, doors, hood, radiator support, and front end does not eliminate squeak or rattles, the trouble is probably caused by misalignment; in such cases, follow alignment and adjustment procedures.
Anti-squeak material slipping out of position may also cause squeak and rattles. Relocating and cementing material in position will eliminate this difficulty.
WINDSHIELD WASHER JET
SEAL
M O U L D I N G
UPPER H O O D LOCK SUPPORT
STRIKER
RETAINER
SPRING
LOCK STRIKER NUT
BRACE RADIATOR CROSS BAR TO YOKE
CATCH SPRING
^ LEVER
SAFETY SPRING
BUMPER
BOLT
WASHER
BRACE RADIATOR CROSS BAR TO DUST SHIELD
57x740A RADIATOR CROSS BAR
Fig. 3-Hood (Disassembled View) (Chrysler Models)
NUT
MyMopar.com
4—BODY AND SHEET METAL
WINDSHIELD WASHER JET
SEAL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
ORNAMENT
HINGES
SPRINGS
S T R I K E R - — — — ^ Q
SPRING>
NUT
BRACE
ADJUSTABLE BUMPER
RADIATOR CROSS BAR
WASHER
NUT
M O U L D I N G
- H O O D LOCK
ASSEMBLY
RETAINER
ADJUSTABLE
BUMPER
57x773
2. REMOVAL INSTALLATION, AND
ADJUSTMENT OF HOOD a. Removed
Fig. 4—Hood (Disassembled View) (Imperial)
The method of hood attachment is shown in
Figures 3 and 4. Raise hood and remove three of four nuts and washers attaching hood to hinge on each side of hood. Mark outline of hinge on hood with chalk to facilitate aligning.
Brace hood so that it will not slide to rear, damaging painted surfaces of cowl or fenders.
With helper, remove other two attaching nuts and washers and lift hood from car.
b. Installation
When installing, use helper to assist in mounting hood to hinges. Install attaching washers and nuts; align hinges with aligning marks.
Tighten nuts a little more than finger tight.
Close hood, align and adjust. Seal top of hood hinge bracket to dash panel with sealing putty.
c. Adjustment
Hood Fits Cowl Loosely—If one side of hood is raised at cowl and the other side is low, adjust hood hinges to body. Loosen all fastenings
(hinge to body) (Fig. 5), close hood and position within hood opening and then tighten rear fastening of hinges. Open hood and tighten balance of fastenings. Equalizing the hood fit may result in center of hood being higher than cowl surface. If this happens, bend hinge rear
HOOD SIDE
FLANGE NUTS
Fig. 5—Hood Attachment
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BODY AND SHEET METAL—5
REAR OF FRONT FENDER ,
Fig. 6—Diagonal Strainers strainer (Fig. 6) to obtain correct fit. To bend strainer, place on "S" hook over center strainer. Slide a bar, (Fig. 7) through lower opening of an "S" hook so that end of bar is hooked under cowl. Pry gently on strainer and check hood to cowl fit.
Rear of Fender Lower than Cowl Panel—To raise rear of fender at door-cowl meeting, loosen bolts that attach fender to cowl quarter, raise fender, using jack until correct position has been obtained. Install horseshoe shims between cowl and fender bracket, as shown in
Figure 8. Retighten bolts securely.
Hood Does Not Follow Contour of Fender—
Insert small block of wood about one inch
Fig. 8—Shimming Front Fender square between fender flange and hood opposite low spot on. hood. Close hood slowly. With hand placed ahead of wood block apply pressure gently to hood. Repeat operation about every six inches until correct hood fit is obtained.
Hood Projects Beyond Front of Fender—This condition can be corrected by shifting fender forward with standard bumper jack with 10% inch steel plate welded to base, as shown in
Figure 9. To correct this condition, loosen bolts holding front fender to cowl side of panel. Place extension end of jack against hinge bracket on side of cowl panel and base of jack against upper section of radiator support, as shown in
Figure 9. Extend jack carefully while checking clearance between rear edge of fender and lead-
Fig. 7—Body Adjusting Tool
56x328
Fig. 9-Moving Fender Forward (Typical)
MyMopar.com
6—BODY AND SHEET METAL
ing edge of front door. When correct hood to fender fit is obtained, tighten fender to cowl bolts securely. Remove jack.
Front of Hood is Higher Than Fenders—
Check rear edge of hood to see if hood fits correctly at cowl. If fit at cowl is correct, check hood striker and latch assembly. If striker plate is lowered, front of hood will be drawn down. The front hood bumper on grille panel should also be adjusted to compensate for lowering of hood.
Hood Low at Cowl Panel—Prop open hood to relieve tension on hinge springs. Loosen nut at plate attaching hinge-to-cowl support bracket. Drive front portion of hinge downward and forward with a blunt drift, until correct spacing is obtained between hood and cowl panel.
Tighten hinge retaining nut securely.
Excessive Space Between Leading Edge of
Front Door and Edge of Fender—To correct this condition, adjust as follows:
Loosen fender-to-cowl bracket stud nuts and fender-to-cowl side panel bolts. Install drawbar by hooking one end of bar over hood hinge support bracket on cowl and other end over radiator support, as shown in Figure 10. Tighten turnbuckle until fender-to-door spacing is correct at front pillar. Also, check to see if front of fender is flush with front of hood.
When correct fitting has been obtained, tighten bolts previously loosened and remove tool.
56x329
Fig. 10—Pulling Front Fender in Position (Typical)
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 1 1 - H o o d Striker Plate Adjustment
57x765
Adjustment of Hood Striker and Lock Assembly (Fig. 11)—The hood striker is mounted on a plate which is attached to the underside of hood. The bolt holes in plate are elongated to allow striker to be adjusted fore-and-aft.
The hood lock plate is fastened by five bolts, in slightly oversized holes, which will allow lock plate to be shifted slightly in any direction.
The striker stud and spring assembly is located on outer panel and is adjustable. To adjust striker (to lengthen or shorten), loosen lock nut, turn striker in or out with screwdriver until correct adjustment has been obtained.
After making any adjustment that requires shifting of hood or fender, always check hood striker for proper length, and lock plate assembly for alignment.
After hood has been centered in opening and hinge bolts have been tightened, check hood for ease of opening and closing. Move striker plate in or out, up or down, as necessary, until hood opens and closes easily, and fits snugly against weatherstrip. Make sure top face of striker plate is parallel with bottom face of hood guide block. This prevents hood rattles when car is in motion.
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
DOOR LOCK ROTOR
Fig. 12—Striker Plate Adjustment (Typical)
3. FITTING DOORS
Make thorough inspection of door before attempting adjustment. A properly fitted door has evenly spaced gaps on all sides.
CAUTION
When an adjustment requires loosening the hinge bolts of only one hinge, be careful about causing a strain on the opposite hinge. When the adjustment has been completed, and the bolts tightened, always loosen the bolts in the opposite hinge to permit it to align itself to the new position of the hinge which has just been moved.
BODY AND SHEET METAL—7
After door has been fitted properly to opening, adjust striker plate as necessary (Fig. 12).
a. To Raise or Lower Door (Front Doors) (Fig. 13)
To raise or lower door, place jack under door as near hinge as possible. (This will hold weight of door as hinge bolts are loosened).
The amount of vertical movement is limited; however, the amount of movement can be determined by scribed line previously made. Loosen the mounting bolts on both hinges ^4 to y% turn. Raise or lower jack until desired clearance is obtained. Tighten hinge bolts securely. Check scribe lines to make certain rear portion of door did not move forward or rearward during above operation. Adjust striker plate if necessary.
b. Moving Door Ahead or Back (Front Door)
Moving door ahead or back is accomplished by loosening either upper or lower hinge bolts.
(See Fig. 14). To move upper portion of door ahead or back (trim panel removed), loosen upper hinge strap bolts and either pull or push upper portion of door in desired direction.
HINGE PILLAR MOUNTING BOLTS-UPPER
M DOOR MOUNTING BOLTS-UPPER
DOOR MOUNTING
BOLTS (UPPER)
PILLAR MOUNTING
I * BOLTS (UPPER)
HINGE PILLAR MOUNTING BOLTS-LOWER
DOOR MOUNTING BOLTS-LOWER
DOOR MOUNTING
BOLTS (LOWER)
Fig. 13—Front Door Hinge Assembly
PILLAR MOUNTING
BOLTS (LOWER)
1
• IN
I M i 57x5381
Fig. 14—Adjusting Door Hinges (Front)
MyMopar.com
8—BODY AND SHEET METAL
Tighten hinge strap bolt and check fit. To move lower portion of door ahead or back (trim panel removed), loosen lower hinge strap bolts and either pull or push lower portion of door in desired direction. Tighten hinge strap bolts and check fit. When correct, reinstall door trim panel.
c. Fitting Front Door Flush with Adjacent Panels
If door is not flush with adjacent panels, correct by loosening four hinge strap screws (on front doors or three hinge strap screws on rear doors).
It should be remembered that when loosening upper hinge and pulling "out" or pushing "in" on front corner of door, lower corner of door will be moved inward or outward also. The opposite corners of door will also be affected in a similar manner when lower hinge is moved
"in" or "out". This applies to both front and rear doors. If, after making hinge adjustments as described above, upper portion of door is still out too far, open door ventilating wing and door glass. With Tool Model "G" Double
Bar Unit, bend door to its correct position. If door is sprung or bowed out at center, mount
Tool Model "H" Single Bar Unit. Tighten lower clamp to force door back to original position. After using Bar Units, check door for proper fit and ease of window operation.
d. Striker Plate Adjustment (Fig. 12)
NOTE: Front and rear door glass wiadow frames are removable and should not be adjusted or aligned to roof line until doors and striker plates are properly adjusted.
After door has been centered in its opening and all hinge bolts have been tightened 18 to
20 foot-pounds torque, check door for easy opening and closing.
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 16—Checking Seal of Door
REAR DOOR
W I N D O W FRAME
ATTACHING SCREWS
,57x709
To obtain this easy operation, move striker plate in or out, up or down, as necessary, until easy operation is obtained, and door fits snugly against weatherstrip. Be sure the top surface of striker plate is parallel with bottom face of door latch. The striker plate is properly positioned when door has a very slight lift as it is closed. This also prevents door noise when car is in motion. If proper adjustment cannot be obtained, use of shims between latch plate and pillar should be used. The shims are available in y
32
and %
6
inch thickness. The shims are used to bring latch plate closer to door, for full engagement.
DOOR MOUNTING
BOLTS-UPPER
HINGE PILLAR
MOUNTING BOLTS
-UPPER
Fig. 15-Aligning Upper Door Glass Frame to
Roofline and Rear Door
DOOR MOUNTING
BOLTS-LOWER
HINGE PILLAR
MOUNTING BOLTS
-LOWER
Fig. 17—Rear Door Hinge Assembly
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BODY AND SHEET METAL—9
FORWARD
OR
BACKWARD
"B" POST
TRIM PANEL
FORWARD
OR
BACKWARD I
Fig. 18—Adjusting Door Hinges (Rear)
57x539^
NOTE: The door frame and glass assembly should now be aligned to roof line. (See Fig. 15)
The door weatherstrip seal can be checked by holding a heavy piece of paper (similar to a shipping tag) Fig. 16, against lock pillar and closing door. A slight drag should be felt as paper is being pulled out. If no drag is felt, move striker plate in closer. This paper test should be made all around door at about six inch intervals. If no drag is felt on paper, make necessary adjustments to either or both hinge pockets or striker plate.
e. Rear Door Adjustments
To move door up or down in body opening or to move door in or out to bring door panel flush with body, proceed as follows:
Loosen hinge attaching bolts at "B" pillar
(Figs. 17 and 18). Move door as required to obtain proper fit with door opening. Tighten bolts securely. To move the upper part of the door fore or aft, loosen only the upper hinge bolts at the pillar. Open the door a few inches.
Lift the rear door edge, or pull down on the rear edge—depending on adjustment needed.
Retighten the bolts.
To move the lower part of the door fore or aft, loosen only the lower hinge bolts at the pillar. Open the door a few inches and pull down
Fig. 19—Weatherstrip and Sealing Lip at the rear edge, or lift up as needed. Retighten the bolts. Loosen the upper hinge bolt to let the hinge realign itself, and retighten the bolts.
4. 4-DOOR HARDTOP DOOR ADJUSTMENTS
a. Front Door
Adjust the same way you adjust front doors on other models, to get a good door fit. Hinges and striker are the same, but at the top edge of the front vent frame—where it seals at the roof rail weatherstrip exercise extra care.
The weatherstrip as shown in Figure 19, at this point has three sealing lips: an outside deflector lip; a primary sealing lip; and, a secondary sealing lip. As the door is closed, the glass frame should just clear the outside lip.
The frame should put enough pressure on the primary lip for a good seal. Adjust the top edge of the frame to make it lean into the body for a good secondary seal at the third lip as shown in Figure 20.
" f 58x19
Fig. 20—Primary and Secondary Lip
MyMopar.com
10—BODY AND SHEET METAL
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 21 —Vent Frame and Division Bar Assembly b. Vent Window Frame Adjustment
Adjust the vent frame and division bar assembly in or out at three attaching points. Loosen the upper frame attaching bolt from the front face of the door, as shown in Figure 21.
Loosen the lower frame attaching bolt at the bracket inside the inner panel. Loosen the bolt that holds the lower end of the division bar to its bracket inside the door, move the frame in or out for a good fit and seal. Tighten the three attaching bolts and check the over-all fit by opening and closing the door.
c. Front Door Glass Adjustment
Raise the front door glass and see if it forms a straight line with the top edge of the vent frame. If you need to level the glass, loosen the cross-arm pivot shaft nut and the upper glass stops. Loosen the small bolt that holds the division bar bracket, as shown in Figure 22.
Fig. 23—Leveling the Glass and Rear Channel
Raise the glass all the way, and shift it by hand so the top edge is level. Hold it in that position, and retighten the bolt, the pivot shaft nut, and the upper glass stops. Check glass operation again. If it runs too tightly, or too loosely in the channels, adjust the rear channel, as shown in Figure 23.
Loosen the bolts of the two brackets that hold the rear run channel. Lower the glass and shift the rear channel forward until it makes even contact with the rear edge of the glass.
Tighten the brackets to hold the adjustment as shown in Figure 24.
d. In-Or-Out Glass Adjustment at the Rear
Edge of the Door
Loosen the two rear run-channel-to-bracket attaching bolts from the rear face of the door.
Move the glass in or out as needed. Tighten the rear channel bolts. Check glass fit at the
Fig. 22—Front Door Glass Adjustment
(4-Door Hardtop)
58x21
58x23
Fig. 24—Adjusting Rear Run Channel
MyMopar.com
CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL
BODY AND SHEET METAL
58x24
Fig. 25—In and Out Glass Adjustment weatherstrip by opening and closing the door, as shown in Figure 25.
e. Rear Door Glass Adjustment
Loosen the front channel adjusting bolts to provide any up-and-down movement required to level the glass in its opening as shown in Figure 26.
Loosen the rear run channel bolts for any fore-and-aft movement needed. For in-and-out adjustment of glass, loosen the center channel support bracket bolts. Tighten the bolts when the glass is in or out as much as is needed. Adjust the