Chrysler Imperial 1962 Workshop Manual

10£1 S E R V I C E

10 VL

M A N U A L

QUICK REFERENCE INDEX To use, bend manual back to expose black spots on pages of the various sections. Then, by means of the index arrows on this page, locate the corresponding black spots on the first page of the section you desire to find.

1962

Imperial

and

Chrysler

G R O U P INDEX

Group Title

Introduction and

General Specifications

0 Lubrication and

Maintenance

SERVICE MANUAL

1 Accessories ORadios, Heaters,

Mirrors)

2 Front Suspension

M O D E L S

3 Rear Axle 1

S C - l (NEWPORT) SC-2 (300)

SC-3 (NEW YORKER) SY-1 (IMPERIAL)

4 Parking Brakes I

5 Service Brakes 1

This Sendee Manual is compiled as a reference and guide to provide the Imperial and Chrysler Service Technicians with the proper adjustments and repair procedures for servicing the 1962 Imperial and Chrysler Vehicles.

Supplementary Service Bulletins issued from time to time and an understanding of the material compiled herein, w i l l assist the sendee personnel to maintain the quality standards built into the Imperial and Chrysler Vehicles.

In order to use the Service Manual to the best advantage, the corresponding or superseding vehicle models must be understood. The supersedence of these models is as follows:

Newport

300*

New Yorker

*C -300H

C H R Y S L E R M O D E L S

1962

SC-l

SC -2

SC-3

SC -2-300H

Newport

Windsor

New Yorker

C-300G

1961

1C-1

HC-2

BC3

HG4

6 Clutch

7 Cooling System 1

7 A Accessory Belt Drives 1

8 Electrical and Instruments 1

9 Engine 1

10 Engine Oiling System 1

11 Exhaust System 1

13 Frame I

Custom, Crown,

LeBaron

IMPERIAL MODELS

SY-1 HY-1

14 Fuel System {Pump, Carburetor, 1

Tank) |

16 Propeller Shaft and I

Universal Joints 1 The service tools referred to in this Manual are available through the Miller Manufacturing Company, 17640

Grand River Avenue, Detroit 27, Michigan, U.S.A. unless otherwise specified.

Extra copies of this Manual are available at $5.00 each, plus any local taxes, under Part Number 81-070-2072.

Order from Chrysler-Plymouth Division, P.O. Box 1658,

Detroit 31, Michigan.

17 Springs and Shock Absorbers 1

19 Steering Gear (Pumps, Steering I

Gear Arm, Idler Arm) 1

21 Transmission (Torque Converter) 1

CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH

DIVISION

Chrysler Corporation

DETROIT 31, MICHIGAN

Chrysler Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design or to make additions to or improvements in its product without imposing any obligations upon itself to install them on its products previously manufactured.

22 Wheels, Bearings and Tires 1

23 Body and Sheet Metal 1

24 Air-Conditioning 1

12M SD

&

TO 8-61

UTHO IN USA

81-070-2072

MyMopar.com

2 INTRODUCTION A N D GENERAL S P E C I F I C A T I O N S

SY-1 LE BARON 4-DCOR SOUTHAMPTON

SC-l NEWPORT TOWN A N D COUNTRY W A G O N

SC-2 300 2-DOOR HARDTOP

SC-3 NEW YORKER 4 -DOOR HARDTOP

Fig. 1—1962 Imperial and Chrfsler Models

62x372

MyMopar.com

INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS 3

FACTORY CONTACT

The following outline of the proper procedure to use In obtaining assistance or advice on any matter applying to Service will insure your inquires receiving prompt attention and handling. Make certain those members of your organization who might have the occasion to contact the factory, are thoroughly familiar with this procedure.

Do not withhold action on any matter pending contact by a Service Representative as his scheduled contact may be delayed by special assignments. When in doubt as to the proper procedure to follow in the handling of a claim or complaint, prompt results can be obtained through a letter, telegram or phone call to your Regional Service Office—making certain to include all necessary information. I f the aid of a Service Representative is necessary, the Regional Office will arrange for his contact as promptly as circumstances permit.

Letters or telegrams to the Regional Service Office, or to the car division concerned, should be confined to one subject only and should include the following information:

Car Serial Number Owner's Name

Date of Sale Mileage

Complete description of difficulty, corrective action taken, your recommendations as to what should be done and the reason for so doing.

Include Paint and Trim Code Numbers where finish, upholstery, body or sheet metal is involved, and estimate of net cost of repairs.

CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH DIVISION

With the exception of orders for parts or parts literature, all requests for Chrysler and Imperial

Service literature such as Service Bulletins, Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, Time Schedules,

W.S.G's or other Chrysler and Imperial Service literature, should be addressed to:

(Letters) (Telegrams)

Chrysler Corporation Chrysler - Plymouth Division

Chrysler - Plymouth Division Attention,

Service Department (Name of person to whom sent)

P.O. Box 1658 WUX

Detroit SI, Michigan Detroit, Michigan

(Phone) VAUey 2-4700

NOTE: Please make certain to include the Code W U X on all telegrams to the Chrysler - Plymouth

Division as this insures delivery direct to our Teleprint Room thus eliminating delay.

MASTER TECHNICIANS SERVICE CONFERENCE!

All correspondence concerning enrollment in the M.T.S.C. Program, changes in enrollment records (the adding or dropping of personnel), issuance of awards, status of enrolled personnel, orders for additional material, the return of questionnaires, or any other matters relating to this program should be addressed to:

Master Technician Service Conference

Chrysler Corporation Training Center

Service Development and Training Office

P.O. Box 2119

Detroit 31, Michigan

(Phone) JEfferson 9-3000

MyMopar.com

4 INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

PARTS DIVISION

G e n e r a l

A L L orders for parts or accessories, emergency or otherwise, should be forwarded direct to your usual source of supply or to the parts plant listed below serving the area i n which you are located.

To insure your receiving the parts required b y you more promptly, close attention should be given to the procedure listed under "Ordering Information" and "Your Parts Orders" i n the i n troductory front part of all MoPar Parts Lists- Particularly where parts are ordered for a specific car, i t is very essential that your order include the car serial and engine numbers, and i n the case of body parts, the body number.

CENTER LINE, M I C H I G A N MARYSVILLE, M I C H I G A N

Mail Address: Mail Address:

Center Line Parts Plant Marysville Parts Plant

Chrysler Motors Corporation Chrysler Motors Corporation

P.O. Box 779 P.O. Box 722

Detroit 31, Michigan Port Huron, Michigan

Telephone — Detroit Telephone—Port Huron

Jefferson 9-3000 Yukon 2-8561

SAN LEANDRO, CALIFORNIA N E W A R K , D E L A W A R E

Mail Address: Mail Address:

San Leandro Parts Plant Delaware Parts Plant

Chrysler Motors Corporation Chrysler Motors Corporation

1950 Davis Street South College Avenue

San Leandro, California P.O. Box 120

Telephone—San Leandro Newark, Delaware

Neptune 8-6200 Telephone

—

Newark

A T L A N T A , G E O R G I A Endicott 8-2521

Mail Address: K A N S A S CITY, KANSAS

Atlanta Parts Plant Mail Address:

Chrysler Motors Corporation Kansas City Parts Plant

1150 Murphy Avenue, S.W. Chrysler Motors Corporation

P.O. Box 10786 Funston & Chrysler Roads

Atlanta 10, Georgia Kansas City 15, Kansas

Telephone—Atlanta Telephone—Kansas City, Kansas

Plaza 5-2531. Fairfax 1-3300

Parts Division Literature

Request for Parts Division literature such as Parts Books, Parts Price Lists, Parts Bulletins, etc., should be forwarded direct t o : Chrysler Corporation, Parts Division

P.O. Box 1718

Detroit 31, Michigan

Attention: Parts Catalog Department

Shortage of Accessories or Other Equipment o n N e w Cora

Before placing an order for missing accessories, other parts or equipment, on new cars received, examine the vehicle for the presence of a "back order" notice, which i f present, will be found attached to the bracket for the inside rear view mirror. Such back-ordered short items w i l l be shipped from the assembly plant as soon as stock is available, and should not be ordered from the Parts Division.

Emergency

Orders

Where a part required for an "Emergency" is not readily available from your usual parts source, an order plainly marked "Emergency Order" and including complete details on the need for the materials, should be placed w i t h the above parts plant serving the area in which you are located.

Orders so marked and which are, i n the opinion o f the Parts Division, for a bona fide immediate emergency need, w i l l receive emergency handling. Emergency orders should not be forwarded to the Division Service Department.

Should the occasion arise that the part required is not available at the plant ordered from, you will be notified t h a t the part is on back-order. I n the meantime, your order w i l l continue to receive emergency handling by the Parts Division with shipment being made as promptly as i t is available.

MyMopar.com

INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS 5

L I C E N S E D A T A

The following" revised method of numbering vehicles and their engines will be used on the 1962 Models.

This revision will provide the Sales Department with the information desired as to model, year built and the serial number.

The starting vehicle number will be as follows:

CHRYSLER MODELS

Newport . . . SC-l 81-23100001

Newport (Town and Country) . . .SC-l 85-23100001

300 SC-2 82-23100001

New Yorker .SC-3 83-23100001

New Yorker (Town and Country) . SC-3 87-23100001

Chrysler 300H. SC-2-300H 84-23100001

Fig.

2 —Vehicle Number

The vehicle number is stamped on a metal plate attached to the left front door body hinge pillar, as shown in Figure 2.

IMPERIAL MODELS

Custom. SY-1 91-23100001

Crown.

.SY-1 92-23100001

LeBaron .SY-1 93-23100001

Model • — • 1

Serial Number

:

, —"

The starting engine numbers will be as follows:

CHRYSLER

Newport S-36-8-7

300 S-38-8-7

New Yorker . .S-41-8-7

The engine number is stamped on a boss on the

Chrysler 300H.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S-41-8-7 top side of the cylinder block just back of the water

MyMopar.com

6 INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

I t e m Body Style

Starting Vehicle Numbers 1962 Models

SC-l

Four Door Sedan

Town and Country

81-23100001 Newport

85-23100001 Newport

Four Door Hard Top 82-23100001

Two Door Hard Top 84-23100001

Four Door Sedan

Town and Country

Four Door Sedan

Four Door Sedan

Four Door Sedan

83-23100001

87-23100001

91-23100001

92-23100001

93-23100001

Wheelbase Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe . .

Two Door (hard top). .

Town & Country

Four Door (hard top)..

122

122

122

122

122

Tread

(Front)

Tread

(Rear)

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Two Door (hard top)

Town & Country ,

Four Door (hard top)

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Two Door (hard top)

Town & Country.

Four Door (hard top)..

60.9

60.9

60.9

60.8

60.9

59.7

59.7

59.7

59.7

59.7

Length with

Bumper

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Two Door (hard top).

Town & Country.

Four Door (hard top)..

214.9

214.9

214.9

216.4

214.9

Width with Four Door Sedan

Bumper Convertible Coupe". —

Rear Axle with

Torque-

Flite

Trans.

Tire Size

Two Door (hard top). .

Town & Country

Four Door (hard top)..

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Two Door (hard top)

Town & Country

Foor Door (hard top).

Four Door Sedan

Convertible Coupe

Two Door (hard top)

Town & Country.

Four Door (hard top) ~

79.4

79.4

79.4

79.4

79.4

2.93

2.93

2.93

2.93

2.93

8.00x14

8.00x14

8.00x14

8,50x14

8.00x14

* 61.1 with 7.60x15 Tires t 60.0 with 7.60x15 Tires

@ 7.60x15 with 300-H Engine

SC-2

300

C-300H

SC-3

. —

79.4

79.4

—

79.4

—

3.23

3.23

—

3.23

—

59.7f

59.7f

—

59.7f

—

214.9

214.9

—

214.9

—

8.00x14®

8.00x14®

—

8.00x14®

—

122

122

—

122

—

60.9*

60.9*

—

60.9*

SY-1

New Yorker

New Yorker

I m p . Custom

I m p . Crown

I m p . LeBaron

126

—

—

126

126

—

129

129

—

129

219.3

—

—

220.4

209.3

79.4

—

—

79.4

79.4

60.9

—

—

61.1

60.9

59.7

—

— •

60.0

59.7

—

61.7

61.7

—

61.7

—

62.2

62.2

—

62.2

—

227.1

227.1

—

227.1

—

81.7

81.7

—

81.7

2.93

_

—

2.93

2.93

8.50x14

. —

—

9.00x14

8.50x14

—

2.93

2.93

—

2.93

—

8.20x15

8.20x15

—

8.20x15

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-1

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART

PSF Power Steering Reservoir (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

EO Engine O i l (Change) 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

Engine O i l Filter Element (Replace) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

HTF Brake Master Cylinder (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

" I n L i n e " Carburetor Fuel Filter (Replace)

16,000 Miles

Engine Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaners a n d

Vent V a l v e (Clean) 3,000 Miles

$SL Front Suspension Ball Joints (Inspect)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles (Lubricate) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

Steering Linkage Pivot Seals (Inspect)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

A A A u t o m a t i c Transmission (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles (Refill a n d A d j u s t ) 3 2 , 0 0 0

Miles

UJ2 Propeller Shaft Splines a n d Universal

Joints (Disassemble, Clean a n d Repack)

3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

MP Rear A x l e (Check Level) 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

(Drain a n d Refill) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles (Sure

Grip—Use SGL Lube)

Rotate Tires 8,000 Miles

KEY TO LUBRICANTS

A A A u t o m a t i c Trans. Fluid Type " A " Suffix

" A "

AF

AP

C

CL

Anti-Freeze

A i r Pressure

Check Condition of

Chassis Lubricant

DCL Distributor Cam Lubricant

EO Engine O i l

HTF High Temperature Brake Fluid

MCL Speedometer Cable Lubricant

ML

MP

Lubriplate

Muiti-Purpose Gear Lubricant

PDO Penetrating Dripless O i l

PSF Power Steering f l u i d

S M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e Solvent

SGL Sure Grip Lubricant

SL Stainless Stick Lubricant

SSL Sealed Suspension Lubricant

WB Wheel Bearing L u b r i c a n t — M e d i u m

UJ2 Universal Joint Lubricant

IMPERIAL

CAPACITIES

Engine O i l 5 qts.

( A d d 1 qt. w h e n replacing filter element)

Cooling System

( A d d 1 qt. for heater)

16 qts.

4 pts. Rear A x l e

Transmission (refill)

TorqueFlite I 8 / 2

pts.

62 x 4 4 4

Fig. 1—Imperial Lubrication Chart

Distributor O i l Cup 4 , 0 0 0 M i l e s . Wick under Rotor 3,000

Miles and every

12,000 Miles thereafter

Distributor Cam 8,000

Miles and every

12,000 Miles thereafter

Carburetor A i r Cleaner (Clean) 8,000

Miles (Replace Element) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

S M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

Engine Tune Up at 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

WB Front Wheel Bearings (Inspect—Repack if Necesscry) 16,000 Miles (Clean,

Repack a n d Adjust) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

Maintenance Service 4 , 0 0 0 Miles (See

Detailed Services Below)

4 , 0 0 0 MILE MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Replace—Engine O i l Filter element

Lubricate —Distributor O i l Cup (5 drops). M a n i fold Heat Control Valve w i t h special MoPar m a n i f o l d heat control valve solvent.

Wipe Clean a n d Lubricate, i f necessary—

Door, H o o d , Tailgate HINGES

Door Deck Lid, H o o d , Tailgate LOCKS

Door, Tailgate STRIKER PLATES

Door, Tailgate latch ROTORS

Deck Lid, Tailgate Torsion Bar ANCHORS

Door check ARMS

Fuel Tank Access Cover HINGES

License Plate Panel SPRINGS

Foot Operated Parking Brake MECHANISM

Parking Brake (external contracting) LINKAGE

Check Levels a n d a d d Fluids, if necessary—

Transmission — (automatic)

Rear A x l e Differential

Steering Gear Pump (Power Steering)

Engine Coolant —Check Anti-Freeze

Brake Master Cylinder

Battery

Inspect —Condition of Ball Joint and

Tie

Rod

End Seals.

PARTS W H I C H SHOULD NOT BE LUBRICATED

A l t e r n a t o r bearings

Rubber bushings

t

Oilife bearings

Rear springs, bolts a n d shackles

Starter bearings

Carburetor a i r cleaner

Carburetor l i n k a g e

Accelerator p e d a l linkage

Steering, gear arm pivot

A u t o m a t i c transmission drive selector l i n k a g e

Brake p e d a l a n d linkage

Idler arm pivots

Upper a n d lower control arm bushings

Fan belt idler p u l l e y

W a t e r pump

Rear w h e e l bearings

1

MyMopar.com

0-2 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART

PSF Power Steering Reservoir (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles l O Engine

Oil

(Change) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

Engine Oil

Filter Element (Replace) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

MP

M a n u a l Steering Gear (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

HTF Brake Master C y l i n d e r (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

" I n L i n e " Carburetor Fuel Filler (Replace)

16,000 Miles

Engine Crankcase V e n t

Air

Cleaners

and

Vent V a l v e (Clean) 8,000 Miles

SSL Front Suspension Ball Joints (Inspect)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles (Lubricate) 3 2 , 0 0 0 M i l e s

Steering Linkage Pivot Seals (Inspect)

1

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

A A A u t o m a t i c Transmission (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0

Miles

(Refill a n d Adjust) 3 2 , 0 0 0

Miles

MP

M a n u a l Transmission (Check Level) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

(Refill) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

UJ2 Propeller

Shaft

Splines

and

Universal

J o i n t s ( D i s a s s e m b l e , C l e a n a n d

Repack) 3 2 . 0 0 0 Miles

MP Rear A x l e (Check Level) 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

(Drain a n d Refill) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles (Sure

Grip—Use SGL Lube)

Rotate Tires 8,000 Miles — ••

KEY TO LUBRICANTS

A A A u t o m a t i c Trans. F l u i d Type " A " Suffix

" A "

Anti-Freeze AF

AP A i r Pressure

C Check Condition of

CL Chassis Lubricant

DCL Distributor Cam Lubricant

EO Engine O i l

HTF High Temperature Brake Fluid

MCL Speedometer Cable Lubricant

ML Lubriplate

MP Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant

PDO Penetrating Qripless O i l

PSF Power Steering Fluid

S M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e Solvent

SGL Sure G r i p Lubricant

* S i Stainless Stick Lubricant

SSL Sealed Suspension Lubricant

WB Wheel Bearing L u b r i c a n t — M e d i u m

UJ2 Universal Joint Lubricant

CHRYSLER

CAPACITIES

Engine O i l

5 qts.

( A d d 1 qt. w h e n r e p l a c i n g filter element)

Cooling System

( A d d 1 qt. for heater)

16 qts.

4 pts. Rear A x l e

Transmission (refill)

TorqueFlite

M a n u a l

I8V2

4Va

pts.

pts.

62 x 4 4 3

Fig.

2 —Chrysler Lubrication Chart

EO Distributor O i l Cup 4 , 0 0 0 M i l e s . Wick under Rotor 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

DCL Distributor C a m 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

Carburetor A i r Cleaner (Clean) 8,000

Miles (Replace Element) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

S ^ M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

Engine Tune Up at 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

WB Front Wheel Bearings (Inspect—Repack if Necessary) 16,000 Miles (Clean,

Repack a n d Adjust) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

EO Gearshift Lever Pivot a n d Yoke Selector

3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

WB Clutch Torque Shaft 32,000 Miles

Maintenance Service 4 , 0 0 0 Miles (See

Detailed Services Below)

4 , 0 0 0 MILE MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Replace—Engine O i l Filter element

Lubricate—Distributor O i l Cup (5 drops). M a n i fold Heat Control V a l v e w i t h special MoPar m a n i f o l d heat control v a l v e solvent.

Wipe Clean a n d Lubricate, i f necessary—

Door, H o o d , Tailgate HINGES

Door Deck L i d , H o o d , Tailgate LOCKS

Door, Tailgate STRIKER PLATES

Door, Tailgate latch ROTORS

Deck Lid, Tailgate Torsion Bar ANCHORS

Door check ARMS

Fuel Tank Access Cover HINGES

License Plate Panel SPRINGS

Foot Operated Parking Brake MECHANISM

Parking Brake (external contracting) LINKAGE

Check Levels a n d a d d Fluids, i f n e c e s s a r y -

Transmission— ( c o n v e n t i o n a l or automatic)

Rear A x l e Differential

Steering Gear Pump (Power Steering)

M a n u a l Steering Gear

Engine Coolant—Check Anti-Freeze

Brake Master Cylinder

Battery

Inspect—Condition o f Ball Joint a n d Tie Rod

End Seals.

PARTS W H I C H SHOULD NOT BE LUBRICATED

A l t e r n a t o r bearings

Rubber bushings

O i l i t e bearings

Rear springs, bolts a n d shackles

Starter bearings

Carburetor a i r cleaner

Carburetor l i n k a g e

Accelerator p e d a l l i n k a g e

Steering g e a r arm pivot

Gearshift a n d automatic transmission drive selector l i n k a g e

Brake a n d clutch pedals, a n d l i n k a g e

Clutch release b e a r i n g i d l e r arm pivots

Upper a n d l o w e r control arm bearings

Fan b e l t idler p u l l e y

W a t e r pump

Rear wheel bearings

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-1

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART

PSF Power Steering Reservoir (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

EO Engine O i l (Change) 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

Engine O i l Filter Element (Replace) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

HTF Brake Master Cylinder (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

" I n L i n e " Carburetor Fuel Filter (Replace)

16,000 Miles

Engine Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaners a n d

Vent V a l v e (Clean) 3,000 Miles

$SL Front Suspension Ball Joints (Inspect)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles (Lubricate) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

Steering Linkage Pivot Seals (Inspect)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

A A A u t o m a t i c Transmission (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles (Refill a n d A d j u s t ) 3 2 , 0 0 0

Miles

UJ2 Propeller Shaft Splines a n d Universal

Joints (Disassemble, Clean a n d Repack)

3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

MP Rear A x l e (Check Level) 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

(Drain a n d Refill) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles (Sure

Grip—Use SGL Lube)

Rotate Tires 8,000 Miles

KEY TO LUBRICANTS

A A A u t o m a t i c Trans. Fluid Type " A " Suffix

" A "

AF

AP

C

CL

Anti-Freeze

A i r Pressure

Check Condition of

Chassis Lubricant

DCL Distributor Cam Lubricant

EO Engine O i l

HTF High Temperature Brake Fluid

MCL Speedometer Cable Lubricant

ML

MP

Lubriplate

Muiti-Purpose Gear Lubricant

PDO Penetrating Dripless O i l

PSF Power Steering f l u i d

S M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e Solvent

SGL Sure Grip Lubricant

SL Stainless Stick Lubricant

SSL Sealed Suspension Lubricant

WB Wheel Bearing L u b r i c a n t — M e d i u m

UJ2 Universal Joint Lubricant

IMPERIAL

CAPACITIES

Engine O i l 5 qts.

( A d d 1 qt. w h e n replacing filter element)

Cooling System

( A d d 1 qt. for heater)

16 qts.

4 pts. Rear A x l e

Transmission (refill)

TorqueFlite I 8 / 2

pts.

62 x 4 4 4

Fig. 1—Imperial Lubrication Chart

Distributor O i l Cup 4 , 0 0 0 M i l e s . Wick under Rotor 3,000

Miles and every

12,000 Miles thereafter

Distributor Cam 8,000

Miles and every

12,000 Miles thereafter

Carburetor A i r Cleaner (Clean) 8,000

Miles (Replace Element) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

S M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

Engine Tune Up at 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

WB Front Wheel Bearings (Inspect—Repack if Necesscry) 16,000 Miles (Clean,

Repack a n d Adjust) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

Maintenance Service 4 , 0 0 0 Miles (See

Detailed Services Below)

4 , 0 0 0 MILE MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Replace—Engine O i l Filter element

Lubricate —Distributor O i l Cup (5 drops). M a n i fold Heat Control Valve w i t h special MoPar m a n i f o l d heat control valve solvent.

Wipe Clean a n d Lubricate, i f necessary—

Door, H o o d , Tailgate HINGES

Door Deck Lid, H o o d , Tailgate LOCKS

Door, Tailgate STRIKER PLATES

Door, Tailgate latch ROTORS

Deck Lid, Tailgate Torsion Bar ANCHORS

Door check ARMS

Fuel Tank Access Cover HINGES

License Plate Panel SPRINGS

Foot Operated Parking Brake MECHANISM

Parking Brake (external contracting) LINKAGE

Check Levels a n d a d d Fluids, if necessary—

Transmission — (automatic)

Rear A x l e Differential

Steering Gear Pump (Power Steering)

Engine Coolant —Check Anti-Freeze

Brake Master Cylinder

Battery

Inspect —Condition of Ball Joint and

Tie

Rod

End Seals.

PARTS W H I C H SHOULD NOT BE LUBRICATED

A l t e r n a t o r bearings

Rubber bushings

t

Oilife bearings

Rear springs, bolts a n d shackles

Starter bearings

Carburetor a i r cleaner

Carburetor l i n k a g e

Accelerator p e d a l linkage

Steering, gear arm pivot

A u t o m a t i c transmission drive selector l i n k a g e

Brake p e d a l a n d linkage

Idler arm pivots

Upper a n d lower control arm bushings

Fan belt idler p u l l e y

W a t e r pump

Rear w h e e l bearings

1

MyMopar.com

0-2 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART

PSF Power Steering Reservoir (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles l O Engine

Oil

(Change) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

Engine Oil

Filter Element (Replace) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

MP

M a n u a l Steering Gear (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

HTF Brake Master C y l i n d e r (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

" I n L i n e " Carburetor Fuel Filler (Replace)

16,000 Miles

Engine Crankcase V e n t

Air

Cleaners

and

Vent V a l v e (Clean) 8,000 Miles

SSL Front Suspension Ball Joints (Inspect)

4 , 0 0 0 Miles (Lubricate) 3 2 , 0 0 0 M i l e s

Steering Linkage Pivot Seals (Inspect)

1

4 , 0 0 0 Miles

A A A u t o m a t i c Transmission (Check Level)

4 , 0 0 0

Miles

(Refill a n d Adjust) 3 2 , 0 0 0

Miles

MP

M a n u a l Transmission (Check Level) 4 , 0 0 0

Miles

(Refill) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

UJ2 Propeller

Shaft

Splines

and

Universal

J o i n t s ( D i s a s s e m b l e , C l e a n a n d

Repack) 3 2 . 0 0 0 Miles

MP Rear A x l e (Check Level) 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

(Drain a n d Refill) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles (Sure

Grip—Use SGL Lube)

Rotate Tires 8,000 Miles — ••

KEY TO LUBRICANTS

A A A u t o m a t i c Trans. F l u i d Type " A " Suffix

" A "

Anti-Freeze AF

AP A i r Pressure

C Check Condition of

CL Chassis Lubricant

DCL Distributor Cam Lubricant

EO Engine O i l

HTF High Temperature Brake Fluid

MCL Speedometer Cable Lubricant

ML Lubriplate

MP Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant

PDO Penetrating Qripless O i l

PSF Power Steering Fluid

S M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e Solvent

SGL Sure G r i p Lubricant

* S i Stainless Stick Lubricant

SSL Sealed Suspension Lubricant

WB Wheel Bearing L u b r i c a n t — M e d i u m

UJ2 Universal Joint Lubricant

CHRYSLER

CAPACITIES

Engine O i l

5 qts.

( A d d 1 qt. w h e n r e p l a c i n g filter element)

Cooling System

( A d d 1 qt. for heater)

16 qts.

4 pts. Rear A x l e

Transmission (refill)

TorqueFlite

M a n u a l

I8V2

4Va

pts.

pts.

62 x 4 4 3

Fig.

2 —Chrysler Lubrication Chart

EO Distributor O i l Cup 4 , 0 0 0 M i l e s . Wick under Rotor 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

DCL Distributor C a m 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

Carburetor A i r Cleaner (Clean) 8,000

Miles (Replace Element) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

S ^ M a n i f o l d Heat Control V a l v e 4 , 0 0 0 Miles

Engine Tune Up at 8,000 Miles a n d every

12,000 Miles thereafter

WB Front Wheel Bearings (Inspect—Repack if Necessary) 16,000 Miles (Clean,

Repack a n d Adjust) 3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

EO Gearshift Lever Pivot a n d Yoke Selector

3 2 , 0 0 0 Miles

WB Clutch Torque Shaft 32,000 Miles

Maintenance Service 4 , 0 0 0 Miles (See

Detailed Services Below)

4 , 0 0 0 MILE MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Replace—Engine O i l Filter element

Lubricate—Distributor O i l Cup (5 drops). M a n i fold Heat Control V a l v e w i t h special MoPar m a n i f o l d heat control v a l v e solvent.

Wipe Clean a n d Lubricate, i f necessary—

Door, H o o d , Tailgate HINGES

Door Deck L i d , H o o d , Tailgate LOCKS

Door, Tailgate STRIKER PLATES

Door, Tailgate latch ROTORS

Deck Lid, Tailgate Torsion Bar ANCHORS

Door check ARMS

Fuel Tank Access Cover HINGES

License Plate Panel SPRINGS

Foot Operated Parking Brake MECHANISM

Parking Brake (external contracting) LINKAGE

Check Levels a n d a d d Fluids, i f n e c e s s a r y -

Transmission— ( c o n v e n t i o n a l or automatic)

Rear A x l e Differential

Steering Gear Pump (Power Steering)

M a n u a l Steering Gear

Engine Coolant—Check Anti-Freeze

Brake Master Cylinder

Battery

Inspect—Condition o f Ball Joint a n d Tie Rod

End Seals.

PARTS W H I C H SHOULD NOT BE LUBRICATED

A l t e r n a t o r bearings

Rubber bushings

O i l i t e bearings

Rear springs, bolts a n d shackles

Starter bearings

Carburetor a i r cleaner

Carburetor l i n k a g e

Accelerator p e d a l l i n k a g e

Steering g e a r arm pivot

Gearshift a n d automatic transmission drive selector l i n k a g e

Brake a n d clutch pedals, a n d l i n k a g e

Clutch release b e a r i n g i d l e r arm pivots

Upper a n d l o w e r control arm bearings

Fan b e l t idler p u l l e y

W a t e r pump

Rear wheel bearings

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-3

GHOUP 0

LUB1ICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CONTENTS

Rage

Air Cleaners. • 6

Alternator 13

B o d y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Brakes • • 6

Carburetor Choke Piston. 13

Certified Car Care 17

Chassis Lubrication. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Clutch Torque Shaft. • 13

Cooling System 8

Crankcase Ventilation Outlet Pipe Air Cleaner . . . . . . . . 12

Crankcase Ventilator Valve - • • • 12

Data and Specifications 4

Distributor 9

Engine Oil 5

Engine Oil Filter. 9

Front Wheel Bearings 12

Fuel Filter. , - 13

Manifold Heat Control Valve. • • • • • • 9

Parts- Requiring No Lubrication 13

Rear Axle. 9

Rear Axle with Sure-Grip D i f f e r e n t i a l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Speedometer Cable. 10

Steering 10

Tires. 10

Transmission, 11

Universal Joints 12

MyMopar.com

CAPACITIES

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Make

No.

Gyl. Model

Cooling

System qt. (a)

Crankcase qt. (b)

Fuel

Tank

Gallon

8 SC -l Newport 16

8 SC -l Newport

Town and Country 16

5 23

21

8 SC-2-300 (*) 16

5

5 23

Chrysler 8 SC-3 New Yorker 16 5 23

4M

4 K

NA

Transmission

Torque-

Flite

Pint

Rear

Pint

Size

Standard

Equipment

Tires

Pressure

No.

Plies Front Rear (c)

Wheel

Width and

Flange

19 4 8.00x14 4 24 22 14x5^

19

19

19

4

4

4

8.50x14

8.00xl4(*)

8.50x14

4

4

4

22

24

24

24

22(*)

22

14x6K

14x5H(*)

14x6K

8 SC-3 New Yorker

Town and Country 16

8 SY-1 Custom 16

5 21 NA 19

19

4

4

9.00x14

8.20x15

4

4

22

24

24

24

14x6J/£K

15x6L

Imperial 8

8

SY-1 Crown

SY-1 LeBaron

16

16

5

5

5

23

23

23

NA

NA

NA

19

19

4

4

8.20x15

8.20x15

4

4

24

24'

24

24

15x6L

15x6L

(a) Add 1 quart for the Heater

(b) Add 1 quart when the filter or filter element is changed

(c) Town and Country: 28 psi when fully loaded

(*) SC-2-300H Tire size 7.60x15 nylon blue streak, 15x6K rim

Tire pressure 24 psi front and rear

(Used with 413 cu. in. high performance engine)

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0

-5

GROUP 0

LUBB1CATION AND MAINTENANCE

ENGINE OIL

Lubricants are classified and graded according to standards recommended by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the American Petroleum Institute (API) and the National Grease Institute

(NLGI).

The SAE grade number indicates the viscosity or fluidity of the lubricant. (Example, SAE 30) engine oils may have a dual number, one of which is

SAE 10W-30. This marking indicates that the oil is comparable to SAE 10W, SAE 20W and SAE 30 grades.

The A P I designations relate to the type of service for which the engine oil is recommended. The three designations are "MS", "MM" and "ML". A l l

1962 car engines require the MS oils.

Both the SAE number and the MS designation should be marked on the container.

The National Lubricating Grease Institute

(NLGI) makes the recommendations for greases by numbering them from 0 to 6. The numbers refer to the consistency (or stiffness) of the grease.

Chrysler Corporation does not on the container.

recommend the use of any lubricants which do not have both an SAE designation and an MS service Classification printed

Complete information pertaining to the lubrication points, is shown in Figures 1 and 2 for the Imperial and Chrysler Models.

The oil added to the engine at the factory is a high quality oil "For Service MS". I t should be drained in accordance with the type of service in which the car is used as described above, after approximately

2 months of city traffic operation or up to 4,000 miles of highway driving.

New engines frequently consume some oil during their early life. I f it is necessary to add oil during this initial period, an oil "For Service MS" of the proper viscosity grade should be used.

The engine oil level should be checked each time the car is refueled. When the level drops below the

"Add Oil" mark on the engine oil level indicator

(dipstick) (Fig. 3) the addition of one quart of oil will usually bring the level within the running range.

When adding or changing engine oil, use lubricants which have both the SAE designation and the

MS Service Classification printed on the container.

High quality, well refined engine oils usually have both classifications on the containers. Choice of brands should include the reputation of the refiner and marketer.

Use oils for anticipated temperatures as follows:

Anticipated Temperature

Range

Above +32° F.

As Low as +10° F.

• Viscosity

Number

SAE 30, 10W-30, 20W-40

SAE 20W, 10W-30

As Low As - 1 0 ° F.

Below - 1 0 ° F.

SAE 10W, 5W-20, 10W-30

SAE 5W, 5W-20

Frequency of Lubrication

The engine oil change period will vary widely depending upon the type of operation, weather conditions and other operating variables. During short trip driving in cold weather or driving on dusty roads, the oil changes should be made as frequently as every 500 miles. Crosscountry driving with good oils will permit 4,000 miles of operation between changes.

Chrysler Corporation has determined that the type of operation by the average driver indicates that the engine oil should be changed approximately every two months for traffic driving or every 4,000 miles for highway driving.

"FULL" MARK

"ADD OIL" MARK

52 x 587 ^

Fig.

3 —Engine Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)

MyMopar.com

0-6 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE fig. 4—Engine Ventilation Inlet Air Cleaner

BODY

The following parts should be inspected at every

4,000 mile oil change and lubricated i f necessary.

Prior to applying any lubricants parts should be wiped clean to remove dust and grit. After lubrication, excess oil or grease should be removed. Particular attention should be given to external lock cylinders during fall and winter months to ensure protection from water and ice.

Lubricate door check arms, hood hinges, fuel tank access cover hinge and pin, hood locks, all external lock cylinders, foot operated parking brakes, license plate mounting panel springs and pins, deck lid lock, tail gate locks, tail gate torsion bar roller cam with

MoPar lubriplate.

Lubriplate door lock striker plate, tail gate torsion bar roller cam and guide pillars, tail gate lock striker plates, dovetail surfaces with MoPar stainless stick lubricant.

Lubricate door latch rotor, tail gate hinges, door hinges and other hard to lubricate places with Mo-

Par dripless penetrating oil.

The capacity of the engine is 5 quarts*. Engine oil additives are unnecessary for cars in normal use.

However, the engines in cars which are used infrequently and in short trip driving are liable to rust.

Additive oil contains an anti-rust material as well as an anti-scuff property. I t should be used after a major reconditioning, during the break-in period.

*Add 1 quart when the oil filter is changed.

Am CLEANERS

Engines require ventilation through the cylinder head covers and crankcase to remove combustion products. Air enters the engine through the oil filter cap, where any dust is trapped by the oil-soaked material in the cap (Fig. 4).

The oil filter cap should be cleaned in kerosene and reoiled with SAE 30 engine oil at each oil change period or oftener; In dusty areas as often as 500 miles; in extremely dusty areas daily.

The paper element carburetor air cleaner should be cleaned as often as conditions warrant but not to exceed 8,000 mile Intervals; and a new element should be installed at 32,000 mile intervals (Fig. 5).

After removing the air cleaner from the carburetor, clean the housing and cover with compressed air.

Using compressed air, gently clean the paper element by holding the air nozzle at least two inches from the inside screen. Examine the paper element for punctures. Discard an element that has as little as a pin-point puncture. Examine the soft plastic sealer on both sides of the element. These sealing surfaces must be smooth and uniform.

BRAKES

The brakes are designed so that major brake adjustments are unnecessary.

Adjustment for the normal lining wear should be made when the pedal is less than 1 inch from the floor in making normal stops. Every 4,000 miles and

8,000 miles thereafter, safety check the brake pedal position and adjust if the clearance is less than one inch from the floor.

Brake linings should be inspected for wear approximately every 16,000 miles or more frequently

Fig. 5 —Carburetor Air Cleaner

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-7

Fig. 6—Parking Brake Pedal Lever and

Cable Assy.

(Chrysler) if severe brake use in experienced. Refer to Page

20 for "Brake System Maintenance Service".

Brake hoses should be inspected for cracking, abrasions, cuts, or tears in the outer covering when the engine oil Is being changed. a.

Hydraulic Brake System

Inspect the l u i d level in the master cylinder every

4,000 miles. Replenish with approved Hi-Temp brake fluid such as SAE high temperature brake fluid. ber 2265833. All ball joints are pre-lubricated at the factory with the special lubricant and should not under normal conditions require lubrication before

32,000 miles.

All the ball joints, tie rod end seals and the protectors should be inspected at all oil change periods.

Damaged seals must be replaced to prevent lubricant leakage or contamination and subsequent component failure (Fig. 8).

PARKING BRAKE

LIGHT SWITCH b.

Parking Brake Mechanism

Apply a light film of .lubriplate directly to the. activating and release mechanism every 4,000 miles

(Figs.

'6 and 7). a.

Parking Brake (with Manual Transmission only)

Apply engine oil to the pivot points directly every

4,000 miles,

Lubricate parking brake linkage (external'—contracting) (manual transmission only) with engine o i l

CHASSIS LUBRICATION a. Front Suspension Ball Joints

All ball joints and the torsion bars are effectively sealed against road splash by tightly fitted balloon type flexible seals. The ball joints are semi-permanently lubricated with a special lubricant Part Num-

61xl61A

Fig.

7 —Foot Operated Parking Brake Pedal

(Imperial)

MyMopar.com

0-8 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

Fig. 8—Chassis Lubrication Points

WARNING

Do not use pressure type lubrication equipment as the pressure may damage the balloon type seals.

Use a hand type lubrication gun only filled with the special lubricant Part Number 2265883. Fill each unit slowly to avoid rupturing the seal.

Every 32,000 miles (Figs. 9 and 10) remove the plug from the ball joint and install a lubricant fitting. Using a hand type gun, pump the lubricant into the unit until the lubricant flows from the seal or until the seal balloons showing fullness. Remove the lubricant fitting and reinstall the plug.

Fig. 10—Lubricating the Lower Ball Joints b. Steering Linkage

All steering linkage joints are permanently lubricated. Whenever the vehicle is serviced or every

4,000 miles, whichever comes first, inspect all the seals. I f any "press-on" tie rod or arm joint seals are cut or damaged, replace the entire joint assembly. Service replacement ball joint assemblies will be lubricated at the factory with the specified special lubricant.

I f any idler arm pivot or center link pivot joint seals are cut or damaged, install new seals to prevent further lubricant leakage and subsequent joint failure. Whenever an engine oil pan is removed, and if i t is necessary to remove the steering linkage, recommended tools should be used, to prevent joint and seal damage.

Fig. 9—Lubricating the Upper Ball Joints

COOLING SYSTEM

The cooling system should be drained, rinsed and refilled with the proper coolant in the spring and again in the fall. When necessary to remove accumulations of rust and other deposits, maximum cleanliness can be restored by using Cooling System Cleaner according to the directions listed on the container.

Always discard any old solutions removed. When ready for refilling, refill with water and protect against corrosion by adding MoPar Rust Resistor, or refill with MoPar Anti-Freeze and water, depending upon the season.

When draining the cooling system the drain plugs on both banks of the engine should be opened, and the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator opened.

Sufficient permanent type anti-freeze should be used in the cooling system at all times to prevent freezing in the heater core on cars equipped with air conditioning. The coolant solution must contain 20% glycol-type anti-freeze during the summer months to provide for protection against tempera-

MyMopar.com

tures down to -J- 15 F. at the heater core. In the winter, protect for the lowest anticipated temperature range, but never use less than 20% glycol-type anti-freeze to ensure adequate protection against corrosion.

All models are equipped with a 180° thermostat.

With this thermostat, permanent type anti-freeze must be used. Should an alcohol-type anti-freeze be used, a 160° F. thermostat must be installed.

CAUTION

The factory does not recommend the use of a 160° thermostat for cars equipped with air conditioning.

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-9

DISTRIBUTOR

Every 4,000 miles put 5 to 10 drops of light engine oil in the oil cup.

The distributor cam surface and rotor wick should be lubricated whenever the points are serviced. Two or three drops of light engine oil in the felt rotor wick are required. Apply a thin coat of MoPar Cam lubricant to the cam and rubbing block after the old cam lubricant has been wiped off.

Fig. 12—Manifold Heat Control Valve

Valve Solvent Part No. 1873318 to each end of the valve shaft when the manifold is COOL. Work the valve back and forth a few times to distribute the solvent and to be sure the valve is free (Fig. 12).

NOTE: Apply the solvent only when the exhaust manifold has cooled.

ENGINE OIL FILTER

Efficient filtering of the oil is very important to provide good engine protection. (Fig. 11).

The oil filter should be replaced every 4,000 miles and should coincide with an engine oil change. Short trip stop and go operation or operation in dusty areas may require more frequent filter changes.

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

Every 4,000 miles apply Manifold Heat Control

REAR AXLE

Every 4,000 miles remove the rear axle filler plug and check the lubricant level which should be between the bottom of the filler plug and % inch below. The lubricant level must be checked with the car in a level position and supported by the rear axle housing or the wheels.

Fig. 11—Engine Oil Filter Fig. 13 — Removing the Lubricant Using a Suction Tube

MyMopar.com

0-10 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CAUTION

Do not support car on the frame when checking rear axle lubricant level

Remove and refill every 32,000 miles. Remove the filler plug. Remove the lubricant with a small suction tube through the filler hole (Fig. 13). Refill to the bottom of the filler hole using the correct lubricant type and viscosity grade according to the anticipated temperature range, in accordance with the following table, reinstall the plug:

Multipurpose Gear Lubricant or Lubricants designated for A P I Service GL-4 as defined by MIL-L-

2105B. housing or the wheels.

Remove and refill every 32,000 miles. Remove the filler plug. Remove the lubricant with a small suction tube through the filler hole. Refill to the bottom of the filler hole using the correct lubricant type and viscosity grade according to the anticipated temperature range. Install the plug.

Hypoid Lubricant Part Number 1879414.

Anticipated Temperature Viscosity

Range Grade

Above - 1 0 ° F. SAE 90

As Low as - 3 0 ° F. SAE 80

Below - 3 0 ° F. SAE 75

Range Grade a. Manual Steering

A b o v e - 1 0 ° F. SAE 90

As Low a s - 3 0 ° F. SAE 80

Every 4,000 miles check the lubricant level. Replen-

Below - 3 0 ° F. SAE 75 ish with Multi-purpose gear lubricants, or lubricants designated for A P I Service GL-4. The lubricant level

REAR AXLE WITH SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL should be up to the lower edge of the filler plug hole.

Identification of the Sure-Grip Differential can be made by the letter "S" stamped on the identification pad on the right side of the carrier housing, or by a metal tag reading "Use Sure-Grip Lube" attached by means of the rear axle housing-to-carrier bolt below the carrier filler plug. .... <

Every 4,000 miles, remove the rear axle filler plug and check the lubricant level which should be between the bottom of the filler plug and *4 inch below. The lubricant level must be checked with the car in a level position and supported at the rear axle

Anticipated Temperature Viscosity

Range Grade

Above - 3 0 ° F. SAE 80 or SAE 90

Below - 3 0 ° F. SAE 75 b. Power Steering

Every 4,000 miles check the oil level in the reservoir (Fig. 14) at approximately 60° F. to 100° F. oil temperature. Fill with MoPar Power Steering Fluid

Part No. 2084329 and maintain the level at the bottom of the filler neck.

Fig. 14—Power Steering Reservoir

SPEEDOMETER CABLE

Every 32,000 miles disconnect the cable at the speedometer housing and remove the shaft. Clean the shaft and coat with all-weather speedometer cable lubricant. Remove the excess lubricant from the top one foot of shaft and wipe the lubricant from the ferrule before the shaft is completely inserted. Install the shaft and connnect the cable.

CAUTION: Excessive lubricant can result in speedometer failure.

TIRES

Tires should be rotated including the spare, (Fig.

15) after the first 4,000 miles and 8,000 miles thereafter to provide long tire life, uniform wear, and to retain comfortable riding qualities.

The spare tire should be used so that all the tires will wear at approximately the same rate.

MyMopar.com

I E F T F R O N T SIGHT F R O N T

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-11

(1) With the parking brake on the engine Idling, depress each push button momentarily, ending with the " N " (Neutral) button pushed in.

(2) The fluid level should check slightly below the full mark, but never above the " F " mark when the engine is at its normal warmed condition described above. Add or remove the fluid as necessary to bring to this level (Fig. 16).

CAUTION

To prevent dirt from entering the transmission after checking or replenishing l u i d , make certain that the dip stick cap is reseated properly onto the filler tube.

I f it is necessary to check the fluid level when the transmission is cold, the fluid should be at, or slightly below the "Add One Pint" mark. I f below the mark, add one pint of fluid then recheck the level.

Fig. 15

—

Tire Rotation

The tires should be examined for unusual wear patterns, foreign material and lack of adequate air pressure each time the engine oil is changed. Such conditions, may reflect unusual driving habits or Indicate mechanical corrections may be necessary.

See the capacities page for the recommended inflation pressures.

TRANSMISSION a. Manual Transmission

Every 4,000 miles remove the filler plug and check the fluid level. Replenish with Automatic Transmission Fluid Type " A " , Suffix "A" to the level of the filler hole.

Drain and refill every 32,000 miles. Remove the transmission drain plug and allow the unit to drain.

Install the plug. Refill with Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type " A " Suffix " A " with 4 pints of fluid. Check the fluid level and add sufficient fluid to bring to the level of the filler hole.

Frequency of Lubrication

Every 32,000 miles adjust the automatic transmission and replace the oil (Fig. 17) and the filter, also this service should be performed more frequently, should the regular operating conditions of the vehicle be similar to any of the following: Police vehicles, highway patrol vehicles and vehicles which may frequently tow tracers, operate in heavy traffic in hot weather, or operate continuously with abnormal loads, should have more frequent periodic maintenance. The transmission should not be in idle gear for long periods. Refer to the "Transmission"

Group 21, for the oil change procedure. b.

Automatic Transmission

The fluid level should be checked every 4,000 miles.

When checking, the engine and transmission should be at normal operating temperature.

ADD 1 PINT CHECK WHEN

HOT-

/ /

60X819

Fig. 18 — Automatic Transmission Oil Level Indicator Fig. 17 — Transmission Oil Pan Drain Plug

MyMopar.com

0-12 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

fig, 18 — Wheel Bearings Installed

UNIVERSAL JOINTS

Every 32,000 miles, disassemble, clean and repack with 2 ounces of fibrous universal joint lubricant— light. (Figs. 17 and 18.)

BEARINGS BEFORE THEY ARE CLEANED. Remove all the lubricant from the wheel bearing assembly, and repack the bearings with short fiber wheel bearing lubricant—medium. Add enough lubricant to fill the annular space in the inner hub. The hub lubricant cup should also be cleaned and coated with new lubricant (Fig. 18).

To adjust the front wheel bearings (Fig. 19).

(1) Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to

90 inch-pounds torque while rotating the wheel.

(2) Position the nut lock on the adjusting nut so one pair of the cotterpin slots aligns with the hole in the spindle (Fig. 19).

(3) Back off the adjusting nut and lock assembly to the next slot, and install the cotterpin.

(4) Clean the lubricant cap, coat the inside with wheel bearing lubricant (do not fill) and install the cap.

(5) Install the wheel, tighten the wheel nuts to

65 foot-pounds torque and install the wheel cover.

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

At 16,000 miles inspect the wheel bearing lubricant and repack i f necessary. A t 32,000 miles inspect the front wheel bearings and i f the lubricant is emulsified or low in quantity, it should be cleaned out and repacked. DO NOT ADD LUBEICANT TO WHEEL

CRANICASE VENTILATION OUTLET

PIPE AIR CLEANER (If so equipped)

Every 4,000 miles wash in solvent and reoil with

SAE 30 engine oil. Clean more frequently in dusty territories.

C R A N I C A S E VENTILATOR VALVE

(If so equipped)

Every 8,000 miles remove the valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover and detach from the hose.

Remove the valve from the cap. Soak the valve in

MoPar Carburetor Cleaner, P/N 1643273, and blow out with compressed air. I f the valve has been properly cleaned, the shuttle valve will click when the unit is shaken and the outlet passage should be clean.

I f the valve is badly plugged and cannot be cleaned by this procedure, it will be necessary to disassem-

SPRING RETAINER

Fig. 19 — Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings

Fig. 20—Crankcase Vent Valve

(Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-13 ble the valve and thoroughly clean all the elements,

If the valve is disassembled, great care should be taken not to stretch the spring and to reassemble the parts in the proper order. Note: The free height of this spring is (Fig. 20).

Extensive short trip driving with frequent idling such as heavy city traffic driving may require more frequent servicing.

While the ventilation valve and cap assembly are removed for cleaning, put a finger over the open end of the ventilator hose and have the engine started. I f the ventilator hose and carburetor passages are open and operating normally a strong suction will be felt and there will be a large change in engine idle quality when the end of the hose is uncovered. I f these conditions are not observed, the carburetor passages and/or ventilator hose are plugged and must be cleaned. The carburetor should be removed from the engine and the ventilation passages cleaned by dipping the lower part of the carburetor in cleaner. A pipe cleaner or wire can be used to aid cleaning the passages. It is not necessary to disassemble the carburetor for this cleaning operation.

FUEL FILTER

The fuel filter (Fig. 21) should be replaced at least every 16,000 miles. Loss of performance may occur if the filter traps an unusually large quantity of foreign matter due either to operating conditions or contaminated fuel, restricting the flow of fuel to the carburetor. I f this occurs the filter should be replaced as required.

Fig. 22—Clutch Torque Shaft Lubrication

Every 32,000 miles, disassemble, clean, inspect for wear, relubricate with short fibre wheel bearing lubricant — medium and reassemble. (Fig. 22).

CARBURETOR CHOSE PISTON

The choke piston should be inspected every 8,000 miles for free operation. Should the choke piston stick in its well, free the piston as follows:

(1) Remove the air cleaner.

(2) Apply a quantity of carburetor solvent Part

Number 1643273 into the choke piston link opening in the air horn.

(3) Move the choke blade back and forth until the piston is free.

(4) Start the engine and run at idle. This will clean out any excess solvent and clear the system.

CLUTCH TORQUE SHAFT

(With Manual Transmission)

ALTERNATOR

The alternator is equipped with pre-lubricated bearings, which require no periodic lubrication servicing.

At regular periods, approximately 5,000 miles, the outside of the alternator should wiped clean and the ventilating holes inspected for an accumulation of dirt which would obstruct the flow of air. (Servicing the Alternator, Refer to "ELECTRICAL"

Group 8.

Fig. 21—Fuel Filter Installed

PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION

Rubber bushings used are designed to grip the contacting metal parts firmly and operate a flexible medium between these parts. The use of any lubricant will destroy the necessary friction and cause premature failure of the rubber parts. Avoid the use of lubricant on any rubber parts, including bushings, interliners, etc.

MyMopar.com

Location

Steering Gear—Manual

Power Steering

(Constant-Control)

Engine Crankcase and Filter

Rear Axle—Except Sure-Grip

Differential

Rear Axle—Sure Grip Differential

Only .

Manual Transmission

Automatic Transmission

Distributor

Door Hinges and other hard-tolubricate places

Suspension Ball Joints

Carburetor Choke Piston

(Every 8,000 miles)

Tie Rods and Idler Arms

Door Lock Striker Plates

Door Check Arms, Hood Hinges, and Hood Lock

INSPECTION SCHEDULE

Every 4,000 Miles

Type Lubricant

Multipurpose Gear Lubricant or

GL-4; SAE 80 Above - 1 0 F

SAE 75 Below - 3 0 F

MoPar Power Steering Fluid, Part

No. 2084329

Engine Oil

Multipurpose Gear Lubricant or lubricants designated for API Service GL-4 as defined by

MIL-L-2105B: SAE 90 above - 10F

SAE 80 below - 10F

SAE 75 below - 3 0 F

MoPar Sure-Grip Hypoid Lubricant,

Part No. 1879414

Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type

" A " , Suffix " A " at all temperatures.

Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type

"A", Suffix " A "

Light Engine Oil

Remarks

Inspect lubricant level. Replenish when level is below the filler hole.

NOTE: DO NOT USE A PRESSURE GUN.

Inspect fluid level in reservoir at approx. 60F-100F oil temperature. Maintain level at bottom of filler neck.

See Paragraph "Engine Oil".

CAUTION: F L U I D MUST BE CHECKED W I T H

CAR I N LEVEL POSITION A N D SUPPORTED

AT T H E REAR BY T H E A X L E HOUSING OR

THE WHEELS.

Inspect level.

Remove filler plug and inspect level. Fill to level of filler hole.

Drain and refill at 32,000 miles, and every 32,000 miles thereafter.

Five (5) to ten (10) drops in oil cup.

Apply directly.

MoPar Dripless Penetrating Oil

Lubricant Part No. 2265833

Inspect seals. If torn, broken or damaged the units should be replaced.

Appjy freely into the choke piston link.

Carburetor Solvent Part No. 1643273

Lubricant Part No. 2265833

MoPar Stainless Stick Lubricant

MoPar Lubriplate

Inspect seals. If torn, broken or damaged the units should be replaced.

Apply directly.

Apply directly; use sparingly.

MyMopar.com

INSPECTION SCHEDULE—CONT'D.

Every 4,000 Miles

Location Type Lubricant Remarks

Door Latch Rotor

All External Lock Cylinders

MoPar Dripless Penetrating Oil or

MoPar Lock-Ease

MoPar Lubriplate, or a similar lubricant

MoPar Lubriplate

Apply two or three drops of lubricant to the outside and inside rotor bearing surfaces.

Apply directly.

Door Lock, Vacuum Intrusion

Guard

Foot-Operated Parking Brake

MoPar Lubriplate

Front doors only. Remove trim panel; apply lubricant to pivots; inspect tubing.

Apply a light film of lubricant directly to the activating and release mechanisms.

Apply lubricant directly; use sparingly. License Plate Mounting Panel

Springs and Pin

Deck L i d Lock

Tail Gate Hinges

Tail Gate Locks

MoPar Lubriplate

MoPar Lubriplate

MoPar Dripless Penetrating Oil

MoPar Lubriplate

Apply lubricant to inner surfaces; use sparingly.

Apply directly; use sparingly.

Apply lubricant through the access hole to the inner surfaces while in the unlocked position. Apply to rotor shaft. Use sparingly.

Apply directly. Tail Gate Lock Striker Plates and

Dovetail Surfaces

Tail Gate Torsion Bar Roller Cam

Tail Gate Torsion Bar and Support

Arm Guide Pillars

Fuel Tank Access Cover Hinge and Pin

MoPar Stainless Stick Lubricant

MoPar Lubriplate

MoPar Stainless Stick Lubricant

MoPar Lubriplate

Upper Ball Joints

Lower Ball Joints

Apply to contact areas; use sparingly.

Apply directly to pillar guide surfaces.

Apply lubricant directly; use sparingly.

INSPECTION SCHEDULE

Every 32

,000

Miles

MoPar Lubricant Part No. 2265833

MoPar Lubricant Part No. 2265833

One on each upper ball joint.

One on each lower ball joint.

MyMopar.com

INSPECTION SCHEDULE—CONT'D.

Every 32,000 Miles

Location Type Lubricant Remarks

Clutch Torque Shaft: With

Manual Tr ansmission only

Parking Brake Linkage (External-

Contracting), with Manual

Transmission only

Short Fiber Wheel Bearing Grease—

Medium -

Disassemble, clean, inspect for wear, relubricate and reassemble.

Front Wheel Bearings Short Fiber Wheel Bearing Grease—

Medium

Inspect, clean and repack—See instructions below:

If the lubricant is emulsified or low in quantity, it should be cleaned out and repacked. DO NOT ADD LUBRICANT TO WHEEL BEAR-

INGS BEFORE CLEANING. All grease should be removed from the bearing and the hub and bearing assembly cleaned and repacked with new lubricant. Add enough lubricant to fill-the annular space in the inner hub.

Manifold Heat Control Valve MoPar Manifold Heat Control Valve

Solvent

Apply a few drops to each end of the shaft. Work valve back and forth a few times.

NOTE: APPLY SOLVENT ONLY WHEN E X -

HAUST MANIFOLD IS COOL.

Crankcase Ventilator Valve MoPar Carburetor Cleaner, Part

No. 1643273

Engine Oil Apply to pivot points directly.

Speedometer Cable MoPar All-Weather Speedometer

Cable Lubricant

Gearshift Level (Floor Mounted)

Automatic Transmission

Engine Oil

Automatic Transmission Fluid,

Type " A " , Suffix " A "

Manual Transmission Automatic Transmission Fluid,

Type " A " , Suffix " A "

Drain: Remove transmission drain plug and allow unit to drain. Replace plug.

Refill: 1. Fill transmission with 4 pints of fluid.

2. Check the fluid level and add to bring to the level of the filler hole.

Disconnect the cable at the speedometer housing and remove shaft. Clean shaft and coat with a very thin film of lubricant. Reinstall. Remove excess lubricant from top one foot of shaft and wipe lubricant from ferrule before shaft is completely inserted.

NOTE: Excessive lubricant can result in speedometer failure.

Remove rubber boot from floor panel. Apply engine oil to pivot points and yoke selector mechanism only.

Drain, clean the oil pan, screen, replace the filter, refill and adjust the transmission.

Drain and refill. See instructions below:

MyMopar.com

,2 u

O m m

03 o

IS

03

60 s

"a

S

J3 o a

03

C a as

*5 C3

£ 9 cG

C o3

C

03 c

03

2 3 ^

£ s

0) OS

GO s

> o

S

2 q

a c

05

G

03

.H

£}

P

0) o

s

G o3

C3 o3 o o

>-3 o3

CD

>

03

O o

>

G

03 c o3

(03

a

P

. J

03 o a. ^

3 ^

C O

x

3 ^

*5

O h o

T3 03

PQ

I m

4) fi ^ .15

1-5 o

O

!

s

a

-3 S

£ §

> EH o3

u

CO

> o

P o

© m

5 £

C O

0> -

X o3 aT §

"S3

< £

a

m

QJ

<

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CERTIFIED CAR CARE SCHEDULE

0

-17

4.000 MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. See' Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Rotate Tires, including spare. See Paragraph

'Tires".

4. Safety check brake pedal position, adjust i f clearance is less than 1".

8,000 MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19),

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Engine Tune-up. (See Page 19).

4. Clean Carburetor A i r Cleaner, Engine Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaners, and Vent Valve.*

5. Apply special MoPar Carburetor Cleaner to

Carburetor Choke Piston. P/N 1643273.

*If so equipped.

12,000 MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

• 1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

OIL"

3. Rotate Tires, including spare. See Paragraph

"Tires".

4. Safety Check Brake Pedal position, adjust i f clearance is less than 1". See Paragraph "Brakes".

18,000 MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

MyMopar.com

0-18 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

16,000 MILES

—

CONT'D. 28,000

MILES

3. Clean Carburetor A i r Cleaner, Engine Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaner and Vent Valve.*

4. Apply special MoPar Carburetor Cleaner to

Carburetor Choke Piston. See Paragraph "Carburetor Choke Piston".

5. Replace " I n Line" Carburetor Fuel Filter. See

Paragraph "Fuel Filter".

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Rotate Tires, including spare. See Paragraph

"Tires".

6. Brake System Maintenance Service and Lining Wear Inspection.

* I f so equipped.

32,000

MILES

"Tires".

20).

20,000

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Rotate Tires, including spare. See Paragraph

4. Safety check brake pedal position, adjust i f clearance is less than 1". See Paragraph "Brakes".

5. Check Front Suspension Alignment. (See Page

6. Engine Tune-up. (See Page 19).

24,000

MILES

MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services :

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Replace Carburetor A i r Cleaner, Clean Engine

Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaners, and Vent Valve.*

4. Apply special MoPar Carburetor Cleaner to

Carburetor Choke Piston. See Paragraph "Carburetor Choke Piston".

5. Replace " I n Line" Carburetor Fuel Filter. See

Paragraph "Fuel Filter".

6. Engine Tune-up. (See Page 19).

7. 32,000 Mile Maintenance Service, consisting of:

Lubricate—Ball joints (special lubricant), Speedometer Cable and Vacuum Door Lock Intrusion

Guard.*

Disassemble, Clean and Repack—Clutch Torque

Shaft*, and Universal Joints and Propeller Shaft

Splines.

Drain and Refill

—

Rear Axle Differential, Manual

Transmission.* On Automatic Transmission* drain, clean oil pan, screen, replace filter and/or element, refill, adjust complete.

8. Brake System Maintenance Service and Lining Wear Inspection. (See Page 20).

* I f so equipped.

2. Change Engine Oil. See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Clean Carburetor A i r Cleaner, Engine Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaner, and Vent Valve.*

4. Apply special MoPar Carburetor Cleaner to Carburetor Choke Piston. See Paragraph "Carburetor

Choke Piston".

*If so equipped

36J00

MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine OIL See Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

MyMopar.com

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

049

36 ,000 MILES—CONT'D. 40,000 MILES—CONT'D.

3. Rotate Tires, including spare. See Paragraph

"Tires".

4. Safety check Brake Pedal position, adjust i f clearance is less than V.

See Paragraph "Brakes".

40,000 MILES

Perform the following "Certified Car Care" services:

1. 4,000 Mile Maintenance Service. (See Page 19).

2. Change Engine Oil. Bee Paragraph "Engine

Oil".

3. Clean Carburetor A i r Cleaner, Engine Crankcase Vent A i r Cleaners, and Vent Valve.*

4. Apply special MoPar Carburetor Cleaner to

Carburetor Choke Piston. See Paragraph "Carburetor Choke Piston".

5. Check Front Suspension Alignment. (See Page

20).

* I f so equipped.

CEBTIF1ED CAE CAHE—ENGINE TUNE-UP

1. Spark Plugs—Remove and inspect each spark plug to determine i f it can be cleaned and adjusted, or should be replaced with a new spark plug. Most plugs can be cleaned, adjusted and reused at 8,000 miles. A t 20,000 miles the original plugs need replacement.

2. Distributor—-Remove the distributor cap and rotor, clean and Inspect. Inspect the Ignition breaker points for pitting, bluing, and misalignment, and adjust (lubricate cam and wick). Assure that all distributor secondary wires and tower caps are clean and seated properly at all connections. Set ignition timing to proper factory specifications.

3. Carburetor—Remove the air cleaner filter and clean properly. Check the fast idle cam index. Adjust the carburetor idle mixture and fast idle speed to proper. settings. Tighten the carburetor air horn to manifold nuts. Be assured that the manifold heat control valve and the carburetor choke piston are operating properly and are each re-treated with their specific solvent.

4. Electrical—Inspect the battery specific gravity.

Clean and tighten the battery terminals and connections. Test the battery line voltage at the starter.

Test the starter cranking ability.

CERTIFIED CAR CARE—4,000 MILE MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Replace — Engine Oil Filter element.

Lubricate — Distributor Oil Cup (5 drops). Manifold Heat Control Valve with special MoPar manifold heat control valve solvent.

Wipe Clean and Lubricate, i f necessary — Door,

Hood, Tailgate HINGES, Door, Deck Lid, Hood,

Tailgate LOCKS, Door, Tailgate STRIKER PLATES

Door, Tailgate latch ROTORS, Deck Lid, Tailgate

Torsion Bar ANCHORS, Door check ARMS, Fuel

Tank Access Cover HINGES, License Plate Panel

SPRINGS, Foot Operated Parking Brake MECHAN-

ISM, Parking Brake (external contacting) LINK-

AGE.

Check Levels and add Fluids, If necessary •— Transmission — (conventional or automatic) Rear Axle

Differential, Steering-Gear Pump (Power Steering),

Manual Steering Gear, Engine Coolant—Check Anti-freeze, Brake Master Cylinder, Battery.

Inspect —• Condition of Ball Joint and Tie Rod End

Seals

MyMopar.com

0-20 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CERTIFIED CAR CARE—FRONT SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT

1. Determine i f the vehicle needs the front suspension system aligned. Three important reasons can indicate this need: a. Tire wear pattern and/or b. Car pulls in one direction on brake application, and/or c. Car leads, left or right, in normal driving.

2. Inflate all the tires to the same pressure.

3. Check, i f necessary, adjust the front suspension height at the torsion bars.

4. Inspect, i f necessary, adjust camber, caster, and toe-in.

5. Inspect the steering wheel to make sure it is centered.

6. Inspect the condition of the steering linkage and inspect the seal condition of the suspension parts.

7. Inspect the steering gear lubricant level.

8. Aim all headlights.

CERTIFIED CAR C A R E - BRAKE SYSTEM MAINTENANCE SERVICE

1. Remove both front wheel, tire and drum assemblies. NOTE: Front brakes do 60% of the braking. The condition of the front brakes will serve as an indicator of the condition of the rear brakes.

2. Blow out any accumulated dust or dirt.

3. Inspect the lining wear pattern and determine the remaining lining life.

4. Inspect the condition of shoe return springs, check freedom of shoe movement, wheel cylinder, dust boots and backing plates.

5. Inspect the brake drums for excessive out of round, score marks, hard spots, and spider webbing.

6. Safety inspect all brake lines, brake tees and hoses. Safety check all connections. Inspect the lower outside portion of rear brake backing plates, leakage inside will usually show at this point.

7. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

8. (a) 16,000 Miles — Inspect the wheel bearing grease — repack i f necessary.

(b) 32,000 Miles — Clean all grease off the spindles and the wheel bearings. Re-pack the wheel bearings and, after the wheel assemblies are reinstalled, adjust both front wheel bearings.

9. Adjust the service brakes.

10. Inspect and, i f necessary, adjust the parking brake.

MyMopar.com

4,000 Mile Maintenance Service

Change Engine Oil

Rotate Tires, including spare

Safety check Brake Pedal Position.

Adjust if clearance is less than 1"

Clean Carburetor Air Cleaner, Engine

Crankcase Vent Air Cleaners (vent

Valve if so equipped)

Treat Carburetor Choke Piston with

Special Carburetor Cleaner

Engine Tune-up

Check Front Suspension Alignment

Replace " I n Line" Carburetor Fuel

Filter

Brake System Maintenance Service and Lining wear inspection

32,000 Mile Maintenance Service

*R—Replace Carburetor Air Cleaner Only

CERTIFIED CAR C A R E SCHEDULE

4,000

Miles

8,000

Miles

12,000

Miles

16,000

Miles

20,000

Miles

24,000

Miles

28,000

Miles

32,000

Miles

36,000

Miles

40,000

Miles

X X X

X X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X X X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

*R

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

MyMopar.com

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-1

GROUP 1

ACCESSORIES. RADIOS, HEATERS. MIRRORS. ETC.

CONTENTS

R A D I O

Page

Antenna Trimmer Adjustment. 7

Electric Antenna. •. 10

Fader Control Performance 8

Foot Switch for Search Tuning. 9

Interference Elimination. 8

Local and Distant Push Buttons • 9

Manual Antenna. • 9

On-Off Switch and Volume Control 8

Push Button Adjustment 8

Radio Controls • 2

Radio Removal and Installation . . 2

Service Diagnosis • 32

HEATER

Heater Blower. 14

Heater Core 15

Heater Vacuum Actuator Replacement. 15

Rear Window Defroster. . 15

Vent Delector—Replacement 15

Service Diagnosis 33

AUTOMATIC

BEAM CHANGER

Aiming the Automatic Beam Changer • • - 16

Aiming the Scanner 16

Driver Adjustments 16

Operation 15

Service Diagnosis 34

MIRROR-MATIC ELECTRONIC

REAR VIEW

MIRROR

Driver Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Inspection and Trouble Shooting. 18

Removal and Disassembly — • » 18

Service Diagnosis 34

ELECTRIC C L O C 1

Removal and Installation • 19

Service Diagnosis 19

REMOTE CONTROL OUTSIDE MIRROR

Operation. 20

Removal and Installation. 20

MyMopar.com

1-2 ACCESSORIES

CONTENTS CONT'D

WINDSHIELD WASHER

Page

Operation. 21

Two Gear Pump. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Service D i a g n o s i s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

AUTO-PILOT

Automatic Operation. 21

Drive Mechanism Removal 28

Lubrication 21

Maintenance, External Adjustments, Linkage Adjustments and T e s t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Selector Control Assembly Removal. 27

Speed Warning Operation. 21

Service Diagnosis 35

GROUP 1

ACCESSORIES* RADIOS. HEATERS. MIRRORS. ETC.

RADIOS

All Chrysler vehicles are equipped with radio models

327 and 410 (Figs, 1, 2, 3, and 4). All Imperial vehicles are equipped with radio model 409 (Figs. 2 and 4) which is electrically identical to the model

410. The radio receivers feature a two transistor push-pull audio output, a transistor drive stage and panelescent lighting.

Model 327 is a push button type radio with continuously variable tone and rear speaker control.

Radio models 409 and 410 are search tuned radios with a step position tone and a rear speaker control.

HADIO COirmOLS (Figs. S and 8).

On the push button radios, tuning is controlled by five push buttons and the manual tuning knob is to the right of the radio dial. On the search tuned radios Models 409 and 410 the tuning is controlled manually by five push buttons and the tuning knob.

The search tuning Is controlled by two additional push buttons and a foot switch.

The volume, tone and the on-off switch are controlled by the dual knob to the left of the radio dial.

The rear speaker fader control and the tuning knob are located to the right of the radio dial ( I f so equipped).

SERVICE PROCEDURES

a. Removed (Chrysler vehicles only with Air conditioning).

NOTE: Be sure that the battery is disconnected before removal of the radio.

The radio Is attached to the instrument panel with two mounting nuts and with a support at the rear of the set. (Figs. 1, 2 and 3).

CAUTION

Do not operate the radio with the speaker detached;

MyMopar.com

# SCREW - J (

ACCESSORIES 1-3

Fig. 1—Radio Installation (Model 327) since damage to the transistors may result.

I f the rear seat speaker Is disconnected from the radio, insert a jumper wire to the rear seat- speaker socket to allow the receiver to operate. (Fig. 7).

Time and effort can be saved by removing the radio and speaker assembly up through the speaker opening instead of from the underside of the instrument panel.

(1) Disconnect the battery.

(2) Remove the control knobs and shaft mounting nuts.

(3) Remove the radio-to-dash support brackets.

MyMopar.com

14 ACCESSORIES

(4) Disconnect the " A " lead, light lead, front and the rear speaker leads, antenna lead and foot selector switch (if so equipped).

(5) Remove the speaker attaching screws and the grille from the top side of the instrument panel.

(6) Remove speaker and radio assembly up through the opening of the instrument panel. b. Removed (Chrysler Vehicles)

(Without Air Conditioning)

(1) Disconnect the battery.

(2) Remove the control knobs and shaft mounting bolts.

(3) Remove the radio-to-dash support bracket.

(4) Disconnect the " A " lead, light lead, front and rear speaker leads, antenna lead and foot selector switch connector.

(5) Withdraw the radio assembly from the underside of the instrument panel. c* Removed (Impeded Models)

(With or Without Air Conditioning)

(1) Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

„ I SCREW *

SPEAKER GRILL*

TAPPING SCREW

(4 REQ'D)

INSTRUMENT PANEL X

TERMINALS AND ^ ^ ^ ^

Q

O O

a o

TERMINAL BOARD

V V ° ° ®S

Fig. 2—Radio Installation (Models 409 and 410)

MyMopar.com

0.1 VOLTS AT

G ) GRID FOR I WATT

OUTPUT

1

1/2 I2FK6,0R

V3A I2FM6

X3

- w v -

- £ - C i ? +80%

- C I !

^ O J U f

— w v

RI i

? 2 M

10%

NOUS:

ALL RESISTANCE IN OHMS> I/2WATT ANO ± 2 0 % TOLERANCE

UNLESS OTHERWISE STAr£D, 1000, AA*MEGOHM.

ALL CAPACITANCE IN MICROMICROFARAOS , 100VOLTS MINIMUM

AND ± 2 0 % TOLERANCE UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.

TUNING RANGE FROM 530KC TO I605KC.

If

FREQUENCY 262.5KC.

10%"""

VOLTAGE MEASUREMENTS

:

1. VOLTAGES IN PARENTHESIS ARE MEASURED WITH V T V M .

2. ALL OTHER DC VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH A 20,000

OHMS/VOLT M E T E R .

3. ALL AC VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH 1,000 OHMS/VOLT M E T E R .

4. ALL VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH RESPECT TO CHASSIS.

5. ALL VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH +13.2VOLTS INPUT WITH

NEGATIVE GROUND.

DUMMY ANTENNA

40UUF SERIES AND 40UUF SHUNT AT ANTENNA SOCKET, O.IUF

SERIES TO CONTROL GRID FOR GAIN MEASUREMENTS.

* DRIVER COLLECTOR CURRENT: 10 TOI4MA.

NO SIGNAL-MEASURED BY CONNECTING

CURRENT METER FROM THIS POINT TO GND.

WITHOUT DISCONNECTING DRIVER TRANSFORMER.

* * SET RIO FOR 90MA TOTAL COLLECTOR CURRENT-NO SIGNAL-

TO MEASURE ''NECT COLLECTOR LEADS,CONNECT

COLLECTOR*' \ CONNECT CURRENT METER FROM

COLLECTO *ND.

470 K r - A M

VUl UML

CONTROl

I/2I2FK6.FM6 ? I v

RI3

34M

17M TAP mo,

m

3 0 % j

£ _ X 3

RI5

220K

CI6

00I5UF

CI5

0022 ^

UF

SIB El —|—

01AL rh

- T -

E2 rh

POINTER

-)F - —

1

2NI227A

TX2

GREEN 412.8V B f f

THERMISTOR

R20

4.5AI0%

(5>25°C

+

| 3 ov

• - *

J w v —

TRIO

' 150 600

2W

+I2.8V

+ 12.9V

+I2.9V

2NI227A C * *

TX3

FADER

CONTROL

R25

30

2W

~R22 lWHITF

O . 2 2 A J E 0

+ 10% BLACK

£ C22

: 300 m i o w

BLUE

LUG

^7 rh

(JUMPER)

FRONT

SPEAKER

LSI

REAR

SPEAKER

LS2

62x361 MODEL R23BC

Fig. 3—Wiring Diagram Radio Model (327)

MyMopar.com

NOTES:

ALL RESISTANCE IN OHMS, 1/2WATT 1 2 0 % TOLERANCE

UNLESS OTHERWISE STATEO. IHOOO , M-MEGOHM.

ALL CAPACITANCE IN MICROMICROFARAOS. 100VOLTS MIN.

ANO 120% TOLERANCE UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.

TUNING RANGE FROM 530KC TO I605KC.

MEASUREMENTS:

A. VOLTAGE MEASURED AS FOLLOWS'

1. I3.2VOLTS INPUT, NEGATIVE TERMINAL GROUNDED.

2. VOLUME CONTROL MAXIMUM (FULL CLOCKWISE).

3. TONE CONTROL IN NORMAL POSITION AS SHOWN

(FULL CLOCKWISE WHEN VIEWED FROM FRONT).

4. RELAY IN V ( L I S T E N ) POSITION AS SHOWN.

5. NO RF SIGNAL INPUT.

6. VOLTAGES MARKED WITH ASTERISK ( * )

MEASURED WITH VTVM, ALL OTHER DC

VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH A 20.000

OHMS/VOLT METER.

B. VOLTAGE SHOWN IN PARENTHESIS ARE MEASURED

AS IN "A" ABOVE EXCEPT THAT RELAY IS IN

THE V (SEARCH) POSITION.

C. VOLTAGES SHOULD BE WITHIN 1 2 0 %

OF VALUES SHOWN.

D. SENSITIVITIES ARE MEASURED AS FOLLOWS^

USING A 40UUF SERIES AND 40UUF SHUNT

DUMMY ANTENNA FOR MEASURING ANTENNA

SENSITIVITY. (FOR ALL OTHER MEASUREMENTS 1+132V

FEED THE SIGNAL GENERATOR OUTPUT

THROUGH A O.IUF CAPACITOR.)

WITH 400CPS. 30% MODULATION OF RF.

ANO I F SIGNALS.

FOR I WATT OUTPUT AT SPEAKER TERMINALS.

(CONNECT OUTPUT METER TO FRONT SPEAKER LEADS.)

Fig. 4—Wiring Diagram Radio Models (409 and 410)

AF

* ( g

) * -

0 . 1 2 5 V

RAAS 400% @ I WATT

YELLOW o en

CO

O i

— i w

GO

P4B

62x358

R24BI

R24BC-S

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1

-7

REAR SPEAKER

SOCKET

ON-OFF VOLUME CIVIL DEFENSE SYMBOLS M A N U A L TUNING

CONTROL 640KC I240KC

SOCKET ADJUST AT I600KC *

O X ,

° * *

A

SOCKET

Fig.

7—Antenna Trimmer

(2) Install the radio-to-dash support bracket and radio attaching nuts.

(3) Connect the antenna light " A " lead, speaker leads and rear seat speaker leads and foot selector switch connector.

(4) Connect the battery.

Fig. S—

PUSH BUTTON PULLED OUT

FOR STATION SET UP

Radio Controls (Model 327)

(2) Remove the radio-to-dash support bracket.

(3) Remove the 2 screws attaching the fuse block to the Instrument panel and lower the fuse block to facilitate removal of the radio.

(4) Disconnect the " A " lead, light lead, front and rear speaker leads, antenna leads and foot control switch connectors.

(5) Withdraw the radio assembly from the underside of the instrument panel. e. Installation (Chrysler Without Air Conditioning)

(1) Enter the radio from underside of instrument panel and install the two shaft mounting nuts.

(2) Install the radio-to-dash support bracket and attaching nuts.

(3) Connect the antenna, light, " A " and speaker leads. (To connect rear speaker leads remove jumper wire from the rear speaker socket).

(4) Connect the foot selector switch lead.

(5) Connect the battery. d. Installation (Imperial Models)

{With or Without Air Conditioning)

(1) Install the radio assembly from the underside of the instrument panel. f. Installation (Chrysler With Air Conditioning)

(1) Enter the radio assembly through the instrument panel speaker opening.

(2) Install the radio assembly in the instrument panel.

(3) Install the mounting bracket to the dash panel and the underside of the radio assembly.

(4) Mount the speaker to the speaker grille.

(5) Install the speaker grille.

(6) Connect the battery feed, antenna and speaker leads.

(7) Connect the light and foot selector switch connector.

(8) Connect the battery.

Fig. 6—Radio Controls (Model 409)

ANTENNA TRIMMER ADJUSTMENT (Fig. 7)

CAUTION

The antenna compensator must be properly adjusted for the satisfactory operation of the radio.

MyMopar.com

]-8 ACCESSORIES

The antenna trimmer receives its original adjustment at the time the set is manufactured; however, a final adjustment must be made so that the radio can be matched exactly to the specific antenna used in each vehicle. Generally a quarter of a turn of this trimmer in either direction will ^ match the antenna to the radio. With antenna fully extended, tune the radio to the general area of 1600 KC on the dial — preferably off station — and turn up the volume until a hissing sound is heard. Then, with the antenna fully extended adjust the antenna compensator (located on the rear of the radio chassis) by carefully rotating it back and forth until a position is found that gives peak response and maximum volume. Unless the receiver is properly aligned to the antenna optimum performance cannot be obtained

This is particularly true in the case of the search tuner where the signal strength materially affects the over-all efficiency of the radio receiver. The same procedure can be followed when using a weak station to adjust the compensator for maximum signal volume. When this hissing sound is at its maximum or the station volume is greatest, the antenna compensator is properly adjusted and should be left in this position.

ON-OFF SWITCH AND VOLUME CONTROL

(Figs. 5 and 6)

The on-off switch and volume control are combined and operative from the left-hand knob.

Fig. 9—Ignition Coil Condenser

INTERFERENCE ELIMINATION

When installing suppression items, make certain that all paint and dirt have been removed from the grounding area between the condensers and the engine or body components. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.

The high tension portion of the engine ignition system uses radio resistance wire as standard equipment. The balance of the suppression equipment is installed as follows:

Connect the alternator condenser lead to the armature terminal of the alternator, (Fig. 8).

Install the ignition coil condenser, a? shown in

Figure 9.

FADER CONTROL PERFORMANCE

This control is used only when the vehicle is equipped with a rear seat speaker. Positioning the control in one extreme position allows operation of the rear seat speaker. Rotating the control to the extreme opposite position allows both speakers to operate with varying volume as desired, or with equal volume at mid-position.

On the 409-410 Models, a five position switch speaker fader control is used in conjunction with the rear speaker. This new feature provides an extremely wide range of sound level variation between the front and rear compartments without the usual degree of precise tuning required of the normal variable controls.

Fig. 8—Alternator Condenser Location

PUSH BUTTON ADJUSTMENT

(1) Extend the antenna fully and turn the radio on for fifteen minutes.

(2) Unlock the push button by pulling it out and manually tune in the desired station.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-9

Fig.

10—Antenna Location {Imperial)

(3) Push the button back into position to lock the adjustment.

(4) Repeat the operation on the other push buttons.

LOCAL AND DISTANT PUSH BUTTONS

Local push button will tune the receiver to only strong signal stations. Distant push button will tune the receiver to most of the stations within range of the radio. For weak stations, manual control should be used for precise tuning.

Fig.

12—Manual Antenna Installation

60x1342

(Front)

FOOT SWITCH FOR SEARCH TUNING

The foot switch for search tuning, on Models 409 and 410 is located on the left forward end of the floor panel. By depressing the foot switch, it will select a station on the radio.

The foot switch activates the tuner mechanism in the same manner as the search-tuning buttons (LOG and DIST). Therefore, the foot switch will cause the search-tuner to operate at a sensitivity pre-determined by which of the two search-tuning buttons was last depressed.

MANUAL a.

ANTENNA

Removal

EQUIPPED VEHICLES

(1) On the front fender antenna equipped models

(Figs. 10, 11 and 12) unplug the antenna lead-in wire from radio set at instrument panel. On rear mounted antennas, unplug the antenna short lead from the extension cable at the " Y " connector located in the trunk compartment.

(2) Lower the antenna.

(3) Remove the plastic cap and nut attaching the antenna to rear wheel housing.

(4) Remove the nut, plastic adapter, gasket and ground collar.

(5) Remove the antenna assembly.

When installing the antenna, care should be taken to route the "lead-in" cable over the glove box compartment to allow for ample cable length when plugging the "lead-in" cable into the radio receptacle.

Fig, 11 —Antenna Location (Chrysler) b.

Installation

(1) Install the antenna rod, lower adapter and mount the antenna to quarter panel or front fender.

(2) Install the gasket, upper adapter and attaching nut.

(3) Tighten the attaching nut and install the nut plastic cap.

(4) Install the lead-in cable to "Y" connector on rear mounted antenna and in radio set on front fender equipped models.

(5) Test the radio for proper operation.

MyMopar.com

1-10 ACCESSORIES

THE ELECTHIC ANTENNA

The electric radio antenna (Fig. 13) used on

Chrysler and Imperial vehicles is a telescoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a coiled nylon cord powered by a two direction electric motor. The main components of the electric antenna are the motor and drive assembly, the mast assembly and the support tube assembly. The antenna is serviced as a mast assembly, motor and the drive assembly, connector, pad and pin assembly, "lead-in" assembly and the necessary switches.

GENERAL DIAGNOSIS

I f the antenna fails to operate satisfactorily, the problems can be divided into two general categories:

(a) reception, (b) operational.

(a) Weak, intermittent, noisy, or no reception:

Generally caused by a broken "lead-in" wire, poor connection, faulty insulation or the mast or "lead i n " wire, or moisture in the antenna body tube.

(b) Failure of the antenna to raise or lower:

Generally can be traced to a blown fuse, faulty electrical connections at the switch or switch lead terminals, bent antenna mast rods, or a faulty motor and drive assembly.

Before an antenna is removed, the antenna performance should be tested to determine whether it is a reception problem or an operational problem.

MAINTENANCE

Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections.

This may be performed when the car is being washed by cleaning the antenna mast sections with a clean soft cloth. In the winter, wipe the clean antenna sections with a cloth moistened with light oil.

PRELIMINARY TESTS

Clean the antenna and drive assembly before test or disassembly.

(1) With a source of 12 volt (B.C.) power, test the operation of the drive mechanism by grounding the negative (-) lead to the drive housing and with the positive ( + ) lead, contact the "yellow" (up) lead terminal to extend the antenna, and contact the "brown" (down) lead terminal to retract the antenna.

Fig. 13 — Motorized Antenna Location (Front)

I f the motor will not operate, replace the motor and drive assembly. I f the motor runs freely and the antenna does not extend or retract, the mast assembly is at fault and should be replaced by a new mast.

I f the motor labors and the antenna extends and retracts very slowly, i t may be caused by excessive dirt on the telescoping sections or bent telescoping mast rods. Clean and straighten the telescoping mast rods.

(2) Sometimes poor reception can be corrected by proper adjustment of the radio antenna trimmer. I f this fails to produce the desired results, a substitute antenna known to be satisfactory may be plugged into the radio with the extended mast held out of the car window. (Do not ground the mast).

Upon establishing that the fault is in the antenna assembly, i t may be traced to one or more of the following :

(a) Broken "lead-in" wire or shielding.

(b) Shorted "lead-in" wire or mast assembly.

(c) Moisture in the support tube or "lead-in" assembly.

(d) Poor connection (antenna "lead-in" assembly or shielding,.ground.)

The preliminary check may indicate that removing the antenna from the vehicle is necessary for further checking, repairs or parts replacement. In this event, follow the procedure for antenna removal

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-11

SERVICING PIOCEDURES

Removal

(1) Fully lower the antenna.

(2) Disconnect the motor leads at the connectors.

(3) Disconnect the antenna "lead-in" wire at the antenna.

(4) Remove the antenna mounting escutcheon nut. Remove the fender shield lower hole cover.

(5) Remove the nut attaching the drive-housing to the antenna lower mounting bracket.

(6) Remove the antenna assembly, being careful not to bend the mast rod.

Fig.

15

—

Assembling Power Antenna

BENCH TEST FOR RECEPTION MALFUNCTION

(a) With the test lamp and battery in the circuit, attach one test lead to the concentric pin on the

"lead-in" connector and the other test lead to the mast sections. The lamp should "light" indicating continuity.

(b) Keeping the one lead on the connector pin, clip the other lead on the antenna support tube assembly. The lamp should "not light". I f i t does, look for a ground between the mast and support tube or inner conductor from the pin and pad.

(c) Remove the clip lead from the connector pin and clip i t on the outer shell of the connector. Connect the other clip lead to the antenna support tube assembly. The lamp should "light" again. I f i t does not "light", the antenna shielding has an open circuit.

(d) Locate the ground or open circuit and repair or replace component parts as required.

NOTE : DO NOT attempt to service the details of the

Motor and Drive Assembly. This sub-assembly must be serviced as a complete unit.

To Remove the Motor and Drive Assembly or

Mast Assembly

(1) Remove the (2) screws holding the "lead-in" receptacle.

Fig. 14 — Removing Bottom Insulator and

Water Seal Washer Fig. 16—Ixistalling Mast Suport

MyMopar.com

1-12 ACCESSORIES

(2) Unsolder the pin from the wire.

(4) Holding the motor and drive assembly in one hand and the "support tube" in the other hand, pull

(applying back and forth rotary motion at the same time) until the support tube assembly is removed from antenna.

(5) Holding the motor and drive assembly in one hand and mast assembly in the other hand (grasp near bottom of mast assembly), rock the mast assembly back and forth and pull at the same time.

This will remove the "insulator bushing" from "tubular fitting" and "outer mast section" from remainder of antenna assembly.

(6) Apply 12 volts D.C. to the "yellow" (up) power lead and ground, until the entire length of the "nylon cord" has been expelled from the drive.

To prevent a kink or bend in the "nylon cord", keep it taut by pulling on the Mast.

NOTE: I f motor and drive assembly is inoperative it will be necessary to manually remove the "nylon cord" from the drive.

In order to remove the "nylon cord" from the disabled motor and drive assembly,, place the assembly in a vise so that the normal plane of the "nylon cord" is parallel with the floor, then using both hands pull on the "nylon cord" until it is completely expelled from the drive.

To Install the Mast Assembly or Motor and

Drive Assembly

(3) Remove the (3) screws which hold the "support tube" to the motor and drive assembly.

CAUTION

DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE MOTOR AND

DRIVE ASSEMBLY FOR ANY PURPOSE.

(7) Remove the "bottom insulator" and "water seal washer" (Fig. 14) from the "tabular fitting" using a wire hook and long nose pliers.

(1) I f the original mast assembly is reused, thread the "nylon cord" through the "bottom insulator" with the tubular projection down (Fig. 15).

Then thread the "nylon cord" through the "water seal washer".

NOTE: The "bottom insulator" and "water seal washer" are included on the service replacement mast assembly.

(2) Apply 12 volts D.C. to the "brown" (down) power lead and ground. Feed approximately 12 inches of the nylon cord into the drive. Push the

"water seal washer" and "bottom insulator" all the way down into the "tubular fitting." Apply 12 volt

D.C. power until "nylon cord" disappears.

(3) Push the "outer mast section" down into the

"tubular fitting". Make sure that the upper edge of the flange on the "insulator bushing" is below center of the 3 holes in the "tubular fitting".

(4) Install the support tube assembly in proper position making sure the hook-up wire is extended through the large hole in the body (Fig. 16).

(5) Install the (3) screws to attach the support tube assembly to the motor and drive assembly.

(6) Solder the "hook-up wire" to the "pin".

(7) Assemble the "lead-in" receptacle with the

(2) screws.

(8) Apply 12 volt power to the "yellow" and

"brown" antenna leads and test for up and down operation.

(9) Install the antenna and connect the leads.

(10) Test the radio operation.

NOTE: On the field installed dual rear antennas, care should be taken to route the rear antenna cable around the rear wheel housing behind the trunk liner to the " Y " connector located behind the rear slot in the luggage compartment so as to avoid interference from the hinges when opening and closing the lid.

HEATE1

The hot water heating system (Fig. 17) used on all

1962 models for heating and defrosting is controlled by four push buttons and a temperature control lever (Fig. 18). A fifth push button independently controls the summer ventilation system.

The Temperature Control Lever

— operates the water valve through a bowden cable. I t is important that the bowden cable be adjusted to provide full opening and closing of the water valve for efficient functioning of the system.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-13

Fig.

17

—

Push Button Operated Heater {Schematic View)

Summer Ventilation — is controlled by opening of the ventilator air damper (Fig. 17).

For Heating—air enters through the cowl intake

(Fig. 18) passes through the heater core-into the blower and distribution duct through the opened shut-off damper (Fig. 17).

Defrosting—is controlled by the defroster damper

(Fig. 17). For maximum defrosting or deicing, the temperature control lever must be set in the full warm position.

Temperature Control Lever—selects the temperature of the air discharged through the lower and upper outlets. When the lever is to the left, air is not being heated. A i r temperature is increased by moving the lever toward "WARM" position.

OFF Button

—

When "OFF" button is pushed in, the system will not operate. The "OFF" button cuts off the current from the control lever switch and blower motor. The ventilation doors are closed, preventing outside air from entering car.

VENT Button — Opens the ventilation door to allow outside air to enter the car directly. I t does not operate the blower.

D E F Button — Causes a major portion of the air to be forced onto the windshield through air outlets on top of instrument panel for defrosting or defogging.

"HI" Button— Causes major portion of air to be directed toward the car floor, at high blower speed.

"LO" Button

—

Provides gentle heat at low blower speed.

Fig.

18

—

Temperature Controls

Heating the Car

Until the engine warms up, make sure the "OFF" button is pushed in and the temperature control lever is in the "WARM" position. Then, push in the

" H I " button and leave the temperature control lever in the "WARM" position for fast initial car warm-

MyMopar.com

1-14 ACCESSORIES up. After warm-up use the "LO" button to adjust the speed as desired, and adjust the position of the temperature control lever to maintain desired temperature. When the " H P button is pushed in, sufficient warm air will be forced onto windshield through the upper air outlets for adequate defogging during average driving conditions.

Summer Ventilation

Push in the "VENT" button to open the ventilation door. Move the temperature control lever to the extreme left. The ventilation door may be left open during rain.

Rear Window Defroster (When So Equipped)

Defrosting or Defogging the Windshield

Push the "DEF" button for maximum defrosting move the temperature control lever to "WARM" position.

A toggle switch (at left and under the instrument panel) operates a blower which circulates air over the rear window to prevent fogging.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

HEATER BLOWER a. Removal (Fig, 19)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Disconnect the heater ground wire at windshield wiper motor mounting bracket.

(3) Disconnect the heater wires from harness connectors.

(4) Disconnect the vacuum hoses at each vacuum unit.

(5) Remove the hoses from their attaching clips.

(6) Remove the heater valve capillary coil from the opening in the heater housing (driver's compartment, passenger side).

(7) Remove the clips from the housing.

(8) Remove the three screws attaching the heater distribution duct to dash panel, (one is located to

WATER VALVE INLET TUBE

Fig. 19

—

Heater Removal the left of vent door and to the right of brake pedal bracket; one below the heater at passenger side and one screw is located at the windshield wiper motor right link pivot). To facilitate removal, disconnect the windshield wiper right link at pivot to expose the housing screws.

(9) Remove the housing and blower by pulling down and out of the driver's compartment.

(10) Remove the blower, mounting plate and motor. b.

Installation

If the blower motor was removed from the mounting plate be sure the mounting grommets are installed at the attaching bolts. I f blower wheel has been removed from motor shaft, be sure to use new Tinnerman clips when reassembling wheel to shaft.

(1) Install the blower motor and mounting plate to the heater housing. Be sure the blower wheel is free and does not rub.

(2) Position the housing on dash panel and install the three attaching screws. There is a spacer at each attaching screw, be sure these spacers are installed between the heater housing and the dash panel when installing housing; otherwise, the housing could be damaged when tightening the screws.

(3) Reposition the heater water valve capillary coil in the heater housing and install attaching clips.

(4) Connect the vacuum hoses at vacuum unit and install the attaching clips.

(5) Connect the heater wire at harness connectors and install the black ground wire at windshield wiper motor bracket.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-15

(6) Attach the windshield wiper motor pivot link

(if disconnected).

(7) Connect the battery ground cable.

HEATH VACUUM ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT

To replace a vacuum actuator proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect the vacuum hoses.

(2) Remove the two nuts and lockwashers attaching the vacuum unit to housing, and one clip attaching the vacuum unit rod to the actuated unit.

VENT DEFLECTOR—REPLACEMENT

The vent deflector is held to the heater housing by three screws. This deflector should be removed whenever the radio is to be removed.

HEATER CORE a. Removal

.(1) Disconnect the battery ground strap.

(2) Drain the cooling system as necessary.

(3) Disconnect the, heater hoses at heater.

(4) Remove the screws attaching the heater core housing to the dash panel.

(5) Remove the housing and core as an assembly.

• (8) Remove the mastic to expose the plastic rivets.

(7) Remove the heater core from outer housing.

NOTE: The core is held in position in the outer housing with plastic rivets. Care should be used when pressing out these rivets to avoid damaging the housing or the rivets. b. Installation

(1) Place the heater core in the heater outer housing and install the plastic rivets.

(2) Install new mastic.

(3) Position the heater housing and core assembly on the dash panel.

(4) Install all screws before tightening to insure proper alignment.

(5) Connect the heater hoses at heater.

(6) Refill the cooling system as necessary.

REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER

The rear window refroster (optional on all Models) is located on and under the rear shelf panel of the car, and consists of a blower, flexible hose and nozzle. A switch, located on the instrument panel, controls the blower for defrosting the rear window.

The rear window defroster operates independently from the car heater. The air recirculated on the rear window glass is drawn by the defroster blower from air inside the car.

AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGE1

The automatic beam changer is an automatic headlight control unit which senses the headlight intensity from other vehicles and automatically adjusts the headlights to a bright or dim setting.

A scanner and base assembly is mounted on top of the instrument panel (Fig. 20). The control unit is mounted on a convenient structural part (grounding purposes) of the vehicle's body, see Figure 21. setting is required, he can override the automatic control by depressing the dimmer switch to obtain the "dim" condition. Automatic operation is restored

OPERATION

The automatic beam changer will dim the headlights when an oncoming car is seen at a distance of approximately 1200 feet. The unit will reset the headlights on "bright" within approximately

l

A second after the approaching car has passed.

The headlight setting can be interrupted by using the conventional dimmer switch. I f the unit has a "bright" setting and the driver feels that a "dim"

Fig. 20—Scanner Assembly

MyMopar.com

1-16 ACCESSORIES

rrrrrrrTtTTT^^

CHECKING SQUARE

i .l I t i , i I,, i i „i i » « « « » J

1 »

. — i > C

I O I

~J

Fig, 21—Scanner Control Box Assembly when the driver again depresses the dimmer switch.

DRIVE! ADJUSTMENTS

A knob, located at the rear of the scanner unit, Figure 20, provides a sensitivity adjustment. I f the headlights do not "dim" quickly enough upon approaching another car, it is an indication that sensitivity is set too "low" and correction is made by turning the scanner knob clockwise (to the right).

I f the headlights "dim" too soon, sensitivity can be decreased by turning the scanner knob counterclockwise (to the left).

AIMING THE AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGER

Pre-aiming instructions—Before attempting to aim the automatic beam changer, complete the following:

Place the vehicle on a level floor. Measure the front spring height. Adjust to specifications, i f necessary.

Check tire inflation. Tire pressure should not vary more than 3-5 pounds. Rock the vehicle sideways to allow the spring shackles and other suspension parts to assume normal position. I f the gasoline tank is not full, place an equivalent weight in the trunk of vehicle. There should be no other load in the vehicle, other than the driver.

AIMING THE SCANNER

Mount the "scanner" aimer leveling Tool C-3697, on

Fig, 22 —Scanner Leveling Tool the "scanner" unit, as shown in Figure 22. Make sure that all conditions listed under "pre-aiming instructions" have been met, before proceeding with the aiming operation.

Loosen the phillips head pivot locking screw Figure 20, just enough to permit free movement of the

"scanner" through its arc, as controlled by the mounting base. (Total angular deflection of the

"scanner" unit is 14 degrees.)

Pivot the "scanner" forward or backwards on base

(through arc) until the leveler assumes a level position. Tighten the pivot and locking screws. a. Removal (Scanner Unit)

(1) Disconnect the battery.

SE1VICE P10CEDU1ES

(2) Disconnect the feed wires.

(3) Remove the pivot and locking screws.

(4) Remove the scanner assembly.

MyMopar.com

b. Installation (Scanner Unit)

(1) Mount the scanner to scanner base.

(2) Install the pivot and locking screw.

(3) Connect the feed wires.

(4) Connect the battery.

(5) Perform the operations listed under "Aiming the Scanner." c. lemovol (Control Unit)

(1) Disconnect the battery.

(2) Disconnect the control box wires at the connectors.

ACCESSORIES 1-17

(3) Remove the control box attaching screws.

(4) Remove the control box assembly. d. Installation (Control Unit)

(1) Clean the area around the body where the control box spacer is attached to the dash panel to obtain proper metal to metal ground.

(2) Mount the control box assembly to the body and install the attaching screws.

(3) Connect the control box wires to the connectors.

(4) Connect the battery.

M1RRO-MAT1C ELECTRONIC REAR ?IEW MIRROR

The electronically operated mirror-matic rear view mirror, as shown in Figure 23, is a self-dimming automatic device which provides maximum rearward vision at night. The mirror assembly reflects images from a silvered surface in the bright position utilizing the optical characteristics of a prism to reduce glare when the lights of an overtaking vehicle directed at the mirror reaches a certain intensity and actuates the mirror. The electronic glare detecting and mirror actuating mechanism is housed entirely within the mirror assembly (Fig. 24). The automatic tripping mechanism is a tiny photo-electric cell which "sees" through a small aperture in the silvered mirror surface. Light striking the cell generates a small current which increases with increasing light intensity.

When the light intensity becomes high enough to cause annoying glare, the current is enough to activate a miniature amplifier and solenoid assembly which tilts the prism mirror slightly upward. In this position, the image seen by the driver is a dim

P

HOTO-CELL

3 E 2 E L

WINDOW \ one off the front surface of the glass, (Fig. 25). As long as glare is present, the mirror will remain in its "dim" position, returning immediately to its normal "bright" position when the glare drops below a preset level.

The sensitivity of the sensing device is easily adjusted, to cause the automatic controls to actuate the mirror at whatever light intensity the driver finds most satisfactory.

DRIVER ADJUSTMENT (Positioning Mirror)

When adjusting the position of mirror-matic for best visibility, the headlights must be turned off to prevent the headlight circuit from energizing the photo-electric cell and creating a false reading.

An adjustment wheel (Fig. 23) protruding from the bottom of the mirror assembly is marked with an "off" position and numbered through the turn-

UPPER LOCATING TABS

WHEEL

Fig.

23

—

Electronic Bear View Mirror

LOWER LOCATING TABS

Fig. 24 — Mirror Actuating Mechanism

MyMopar.com

1-18 ACCESSORIES

POTENTIOMETER

BRIGHT REFLECTION

— BRIGHT

• LIGHT

- J RAYS

! AMPLIFIER

" O F F " P O S I T I O N

BRIGHT REFLECTION

- 1

V

1 BRIGHT

V LIGHT

J RAYS

6o*\ooa

Fig.

27

—

Adjusting the Potentiometer

" C I T Y " O R " H I - W A Y ' ' P O S I T I O N -

M I R R O R - M A T I C E L E C T R O N I C R E A R V I E W M I R R O R w

* u a

Fig, 25 — Electronic Hear View Mirror Operation ing range from "one" to "ten," with number "three"

"six" and "ten" detented to facilitate adjustment by feel.

The adjustment wheel must be turned "counterclockwise" to reach the "off" position on the wheel.

When the mirror is set at the number "three" notch

(normal city driving), the mirror will be actuated by low beams from an overtaking car within approximately 80 feet. When the mirror is set at the number "six" notch (normal highway driving) the beams will be actuated within 250 feet, when set at the number "ten" notch the beam will be effective at 400 to 500 feet.

(3) Locate the ball joint in the down position towards the adjustment wheel.

(4) Bend the top of the case upwards to disengage each of the upper tabs from the case retaining grooves (Fig. 26).

(5) Press on the ball joint extension so as to tip the mirror assembly out of case.

(6) Pivot the adjusting wheel in the slot of the case until the upper part of the electronic chassis is outside of the upper forward edge of case.

INSPECTION AND TROUBLE SHOOTING a.

Before Disassembly

REMOVAL

(1) Remove the mirror assembly from the attaching pedestal.

(2) Carefully pull the bezel from the case assembly.

AND DISASSEMBLY

In case the mirror does not function properly the following inspection operations should be performed:

(1) Test the fuse and replace i f necessary.

(2) Inspect the lead wire, ground and other connections to make sure current is flowing to the mirror.

(3) Note the flip angle of mirror through which the image moves, when the mirror is actuated by

BEZEL TAB

RECESSES

11 t .

CHASSIS LOCATING

TAB GROOVE

ADJUSTMENT

WHEEL SLOT

Fig. 28

—

Locating the Grooves

CHASSIS

RETAINING

SCREW HOLE

60X1009

CHASSIS STOP TAB

CHASSIS

Fig. 28 — Aligning the Chassis Tabs

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 149 sighting at some object through the rear window while actuating the mirror. I f the image changes position when mirror is actuated the flip angle is incorrect. than one or two degrees or the solenoid will not operate properly.

(4) Should it be necessary to separate the glass from the chassis i t can be done by releasing the chassis return springs and disengaging the mirror from the chassis pivots. b. Alter Disassembly

(1) Measure the spring load on the mirror chassis using a spring scale. Attach the scale to the chassis at the photo cell opening. Hold the assembly firmly and measure the spring load. The spring load should be at least 8 ounces. I f less than 8 ounces the tension can be increased by shortening the two return springs at the lower corner of the chassis assembly. The small coil spring located on top of the relay along side the potentiometer should not be tampered with since this spring is pre-set to specific dimensions.

(2) I f the sensitivity was incorrect adjust potentiometer by turning clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease, (Fig. 27).

(3) I f the flip angle was incorrect, bend the chassis top tab (Fig. 28) rear of the solenoid, toward the glass to reduce the flip angle or away from glass to increase the flip angle. Do not bend the tab more

REASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

With the ball joint end in the down position:

(1) Install the lead wire through the hole in the rear of case.

(2) Position the lower edge of the mirror in the case to allow for easy entrance to the adjustment wheel in the slot.

(3) Engage the chassis lower locating tabs in the case recess.

(4) Bend up the upper edges of the outer case slightly to allow for clearance of the upper locating tabs of the chassis.

(5) Assemble the mirror in case by slightly tipping the assembly.

(6) Engage the locating tabs in the case recesses.

(7) Install the bezel on the case.

ELECT1IC CLOCK

All models are equipped with a solenoid actuated regulated by pulling out the regulating stem below self regulating clock, using a two ampere fuse lo- the clock face and turning until the correct setting cated at the lower end of the clock. The clock can be is accomplished.

SEfiflCE I a. Removal (Chrysler)

(1) Remove the screw attaching the clock to the instrument panel, and the other two screws attaching the clock retainer to the rear of the instrument panel.

(2) These screws can be reached, after removing the glove box door, and the glove box assembly. c.

Installation (Chrysler)

(1) Install the clock retainer screws,

(2) Connect the bowden cable, clockwire and clock lamp wire.

(3) Install the bezel retainer screw.

(4) Install the glove box assembly and glove box door. b. Removal (Imperial)

(1) Remove the three screws attaching the instrument cluster bezel to the instrument panel.

(2) Pull the cluster forward from the instrument panel, just far enough to allow for disconnecting of the reset cable, clockwire and illumination wire. Remove the clock attaching screws. d.

Installation (Imperial)

(1) Install the clock and retainer screws.

(2) Install the reset cable, clockwire, and lamp wire.

(3) Install the instrument cluster bezel screws.

MyMopar.com

1-20 ACCESSORIES

REMOTE CONTROL OUTSIDE MIRROR

OPERATION

The remote control outside mirror is controlled by stainless steel wires attached to wobble plates and a lever within the mirror assembly and is operated by a toggle lever located on the instrument panel

(Fig. 29). Adjustment of the mirror to meet driving requirements can be made without moving from the normal driving position.

(3) Remove the mirror, gasket, cable and lever assembly. b. Installation a. Removal

(1) Remove the toggle lever assembly bezel.

(2) Remove the (2) screws attaching mirror to fender.

(1) Install the gasket, mirror and cable assembly in the fender opening.

(2) Route the cable and lever assembly up through the body to the instrument panel opening.

(3) Attach the bezel to the cover assembly and tighten.

(4) Test and adjust the operation of mirror.

MIRROR AND CABLE ASSY.

MIRROR SEAL

SWIVEL PIN

60x1125

Fig.

29—Mirror Operating Lever

WINDSHIELD WASHER

The electrically-operated windshield washer is standard equipment on all Chrysler and Imperial models.

I t is located on the engine side of the radiator support at the lower right corner (Fig. 30). This new unit is a permanent magnet type motor, coupled to a plastic gear pump that supplies fluid through rubber tubing to dual nozzle jets mounted in the fresh air intake grille of the cowl ventilator. The motor is a permanently lubricated sealed unit and

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-21

TWO GEAR PUMP

A plastic bag type reservoir is mounted directly above the pump and the fluid is gravity fed from the bottom of the bag directly to the plastic two gear pump. The pump is a sealed unit and needs no service.

The outlet of the pump is attached by a rubber tubing to dual adjustable brass nozzles. Adjustment of the nozzle may be made by inserting a small screwdriver into the opening of the grille and rotating the nozzle in the direction of the spray is desired.

Fig. 30—Windshield Washer needs no servicing. A circuit breaker in the unit protects the motor from overheating in the event of continuous operation or stalling of the pump. The pump and motor will be serviced as an assembly only.

OPERATION

Depressing a small button in the center of the windshield wiper knob actuates the motor and pump and a continuous stream of fluid is ejected as long as the button is depressed and fluid remains in the reservoir. The windshield washer operates independently of the windshield wipers.

AUTO-PILOT

The auto-pilot (Fig. 31) is a driver operated voluntary speed control. I t can be used either as a warning signal to indicate that a pre-set vehicle speed has been reached, or as a fully automatic vehicle speed regulator. In either operation it helps to reduce driver fatigue, contribute to highway safety, and improve fuel economy.

SPEED WARNING OPERATION

A convenient dial selector knob located on the dash

(Fig. 32) is used to set the auto-pilot to the desired speed the driver selects for the existing driving conditions. When the car reaches the preset speed, the auto-pilot provides a reaction pressure to the accelerator pedal pressure. Since the reaction pressure is five to seven pounds, the driver can exceed this speed by pressing the accelerator pedal through the reaction pressure and obtain the desired additional speed.

AUTOMATIC OPERATION

With the selector knob set to the desired speed, and the button in the center of the knob pulled out (Fig.

32), the driver can accelerate the car to the speed where the reaction pressure is felt and the autopilot will engage itself. Then relaxing the accelerator pedal pressure, the auto-pilot will be in automatic regulation of the accelerator. The accelerator will automatically advance on uphill and retard on down grade operation. Automatic control ceases instantly with the slightest brake pedal movement and the accelerator will revert to manual control. Disengagement of the automatic control may also be accomplished by pushing " I N " the center button of the selector knob or turning the ignition switch to

"OFF".

LUBRICATION

Internal working parts of the auto-pilot are equipped with self-lubricated bearings, shielded ball bearings, or have been factory lubricated for the service life of the unit. When any internal service is performed, the drive screw worm (Fig. 33) and compressor rod (Fig. 34) should be lubricated lightly with MoPar lubriplate.

MyMopar.com

1-22 ACCESSORIES

Fig. 31—Auto-Pilot (Disassembled)

MyMopar.com

SPEED CONTROL KNOBS

COMPRESSOR ROD

ACCESSORIES 1-23

ESSEES

GUIDE CLAMP NUT-

BALL SOCKET

61x278

Fig. 34—Governor Assembly (Cut Away View)

Fig. 32 — Auto-Pilot Controls (Chrysler & Imperial)

MAINTENANCE, EXTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS,

LINEAGE ADJUSTMENTS AND TESTS

Service Adjustment

There are five service adjustments for the Auto-

Pilot: 1, Linkage Adjustment; 2. Control cable Adjustment; 3. Locking arm latch adjustment; 4. Point adjustment; 5. Brake switch test and adjustment.

Linkage Adjustment

CAUTION: The carburetor must be on slow idle with the choke off for this adjustment.

(1) Remove the cotter pin from the link stud and remove the link stud from the armature lever (Fig.

33.)

(2) Insert the sleeve gauge Tool C-3844 over the gauge bolt and hold the armature lever securely against the sleeve gauge (Fig. 33).

Fig. 33—Linkage Adjustments

DUST SHIELD

CABLE

CLAMP

NUT

CONTROL CABLE

61x282

Fig. 35—Control Cable Adjustment

MyMopar.com

1-24 ACCESSORIES

(3) Adjust the link length until the stud will freely enter the hole in the armature lever.

(4) Replace the cotter pin.

(5) Remove the sleeve gauge.

Control Cable Adjustment

(1) Rotate the selector knob counterclockwise as far as it will go without forcing.

(2) Hold the dust shield so that i t will not rotate while unscrewing the clamp nut. Let the nut slide down the control cable. (This nut retains the control cable in the bottom of the dust shield.) (Fig. 35.)

(3) Remove the clamp nut, and pull the control cable out of the dust shield until the ferrule on the end of the cable is free from the buttom of the dust shield (Fig. 35.)

NOTE: I f the ferrule is tight in the dust shield, carefully pry the four fingers apart until the ferrule slides out freely. In some cases, it may be necessary to unscrew the dust shield from the unit in order to pry the four fingers apart.

CAUTION: Hold the hex fitting at the top of the dust shield so it cannot turn when unscrewing the dust shield.

(4) Reinsert the ferrule in the dust shield. Push in lightly on the control cable until i t stops.

CAUTION: Do not force the cable beyond this position. The fingers of the dust shield must clamp the ferrule on its largest diameter.

(5) Again try to rotate the selector knob counterclockwise only, in order to make certain it is at the low setting.

(6) Tighten the clamp nut on the bottom of the dust shield securely.

Fig. 37—Electrical Contact Points and Latch Cap

INTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS

Locking A m Latch Adjustment

(1) Disconnect the accelerator linkage rod from the armature lever (Fig. 33).

(2) Remove the Auto-Pilot drive mechanism cover.

(3) Turn the ignition "ON". Do not start the engine.

(4) Move the locking arm against the magnet and push the latching cap down to lock the magnet assembly and locking arm together.

(5) Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the locking arm and latching cap (Fig. 36).

The clearance should be .001" to .006". I f less than

.001" clearance, loosen the lock nut. (Fig. 36.) Turn the adjusting screw "counterclockwise" to obtain proper clearance. I f more than .006" turn the adjusting screw "clockwise". Tighten the lock nut.

(6) Turn the ignition "OFF" and replace the cover.

Point Gap Adjustment

The four electrical contact points provide forward and reverse control of the drive mechanism electric motor. They are: Motor contact # 1 on the magnet assembly; two points on the contact arm; and motor contact point # 2 on the locking arm (Fig. 37).

NOTE: Unlike distributor points, these points are still operative when blackened or pitted and need not be filed. Any buildup material, however, on the contact points should be removed.

Fig. 36 — Measuring Clearance Between Locking Arm

To Measure the Point Gap Setting

(1) Turn the selector knob "counterclockwise" to the low position.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORES 1-25

Fig.

38—Electrical Terminals

(2) Disconnect the drive cable at the base of the unit. Remove the cover. Disconnect the green wire from the terminal block (Fig. 38).

NOTE: Do not bend this terminal, as it has an angle to prevent grounding on the housing cover.

(3) Remove any material buildup from the contact points.

(4) Install the sleeve gauge over the gauge bolt

(Fig. 5).

(5) Turn the governor weights until they are parallel with the drive screws.

(6) Spread the weights and place the point gap checking gauge Tool C-3842 between them. Press the gauge down.

NOTE: I f the checking gauge tends to jump out of the weights, roughen the two angled surfaces of the gauge with emery cloth.

(7) Hold the armature lever against the sleeve gauge and use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the contact arm point and motor contact point # 2 (Fig. 39).

NOTE: This clearance must be .030"-.045". I f the gap is not within the specifications, loosen the lock nut on the motor contact point # 2 and adjust to required clearance.

(8) Remove the sleeve gauge and checking gauge.

(9) Turn the ignition switch "ON". Do not start engine.

(10) Push the locking arm up against the magnet and push down on the latching cap to latch the magnet and locking arm together.

(11) With the contact arm point against the motor contact point # 2 , measure the clearance between the motor contact point # 1 and the contact arm

(Fig. 40). The clearance must be .050" to .070".

(12) To adjust, loosen the lock nut on the motor contact point # 1 and adjust with a screwdriver

.050" to .070" clearance. Retighten the lock nut.

(13) Turn the ignition "OFF". Replace the green wire. Connect the drive cable and recheck the accelerator linkage adjustment. Replace the Auto-Pilot cover.

TESTS

DRIVER MOTOR TORQUE TEST er.

(1) Remove the Auto-Pilot drive mechanism cov-

Fig.

33—Point Gap Setting

Fig. 40

—

Measuring Contact No. 1 and

Contact Arm Clearance

MyMopar.com

1-26 ACCESSORIES

BRAKE SWITCH TEST

Fig.

41

—

Latching Arm to Magnet Assembly

(1) Turn the ignition "ON", but do not start the engine.

(2) Ground one lead of a test lamp and connect the other lead to terminal #2 (Fig. 42).

(3) I f the lamp lights, the circuit is normal. I f the lamp does not light, inspect for full brake pedal return. The brake pedal must return to normal for switch to operate. I f the lamp still does not light, inspect for an improperly positioned or faulty brake switch.

(4) Remove the switch from its mounting bracket and lift i t away from the brake pedal arm without disconnecting the wires. I f the test lamp lights, the switch was improperly positioned. I f the lamp does not light, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.

(5) To properly position the switch, i t must be located so the test light will "go out" within the first y% inch of brake pedal pad travel.

(2) Turn the Ignition "ON", but do not start the engine.

(3) Move the locking arm against the magnet and push the latching cap down to lock the magnet assembly and lock together (Fig. 41).

ELECTRICAL TESTS

CAUTION

Move the contact arm with one finger, on top of the arm only, to prevent pinching or Injuring the fingers as the magnet assembly moves when the contact points are in contact.

(1) Turn the ignition "ON", but do not start engine.

(2) Terminal #1—Ground one end of the test lamp lead and test terminal # 1 with the other test lamp lead. (Fig. 43). I f the lamp lights, the circuit is normal. I f the lamp fails to light, the fuse is blown or the wiring harness is open or grounded.

(3) Terminal #2 —Ground one end of the test

(4) Move the contact arm to touch the motor contact point #2 on the locking arm. The motor should rotate the drive screw and close the throttle.

(5) Move the contact arm to touch the motor contact point # 1 on the magnet assembly. The motor should rotate the drive screw and open the throttle. I f the motor does not open and close the throttle, perform the following operations:

(6) Remove the nuts holding the motor to the housing. Lift the motor away from the housing to disengage the motor shaft from the slot in the drive screw.

. TERMINAL

, NO. 2

CAUTION

Do not damage or pull out the electrical connections.

GROUND OTHER

TEST LAMP

LEAD

(7) Hold the motor in one hand and repeat steps

(4) and (5).

(8) I f the motor operates in both directions and the drive mechanism does not operate, the drive screw is damaged and must be replaced.

(9) I f the motor does not operate in both directions, replace the motor.

, ^* sssssssss

62

x 286

Fig. 42—Electrical Test (Terminal 2)

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-27

Fig, 43—Electrical Test (Terminal 1) Fig.

44—Electrical Test (Terminal 3) lamp lead and test terminal #2 with the other test lamp lead, (Fig. 42). I f the lamp lights, the circuit is normal. I f the lamp, falls to light, the brake switch is faulty or improperly positioned. Test for full brake pedal return.

(4) Terminal #3—Insert one test lamp lead In terminal # 1 and the other in terminal # 3 (Fig. 44).

No light indicates a normal circuit. The test lamp, however, should light when the button in the speed selector is pulled out. I f the lamp fails to light, the wire from the terminal # 3 to the speed selector is loose or disconnected. Correctly connect the wire and retest with the lamp. I f the lamp still does not light, replace the selector head assembly.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

REMOVAL OF THE SELECTOR CONTROL

ASSEftffiLY

Removal oi the Selector Control Assembly (Chrysler): the Auto-pilot by removing the clamp nut and dust shield, and unhook the ball on the end of the wire from the ball socket. (Fig. 34).

(1) Disconnect the control cable from bottom of (2) Loosen the Allen screw in the selector knob

DISC RELEASE

SPRING

MAGNETIC

DISC

AUTOMATIC

PULL BUTTON KNOB

AUTO.

PILOT

CONTROL

BODY

SPEED

INDICATOR KNOB

•GROMMET

RED CONNECTOR

CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE

BLACK f

I B

I n

60X1059A

Fig. 45—Auto-Pilot Selector Control Assembly (Schematic View)

MyMopar.com

1-28 ACCESSORIES

and pull button knob. Remove both knobs from the shaft (Fig. 45).

(3) Disconnect the double plug connected to the wire harness.

(4) Unscrew the attaching nut. Remove the selector head from the Instrument panel.

(5) Pull the cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

Removal of the Selector Control Assembly (imperial):

(1) Repeat steps (1), (2), (3) under "Removal of the Selector Control Assembly (Chrysler)".

(2) Unscrew the attaching nut.

(3) Remove the steering column lower dust shield.

(4) Remove the steering column clamp.

(5) Lower the steering column.

(6) Disconnect the double plug connected to the wiring harness.

(7) Pull the cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

INSTALLATION OF THE SELECTOR CONTROL

ASSEMBLY (CHRYSLER)

(1) Route the control cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

(2) Install the selector head in Instrument panel.

(3) Connect the ground wire and double plug.

(4) Install the attaching nut.

(5) Install the selector knob and the dial shaft and, tighten the set screw.

(6) Install the pull button knob on the shaft and tighten the set screw.

(7) Connect the control cable to the Auto-Pilot unit. Adjust the control cable as described under

Paragraph "Control Cable Adjustments."

(7) Raise the steering column into position and install the steering column clamp. Tighten the clamp nuts.

(8) Install the steering column lower dust shield.

(9) Connect the control cable to the Auto-Pilot unit. Adjust the control cable as described under

Paragraph "Control Cable Adjustments".

REMOVAL OF THE DRIVE MECHANISM

(1) Disconnect the terminal plug at the drive mechanism.

(2) Disconnect the drive cable and speedometer cable from the bottom of the drive mechanism.

(3) Loosen the cable clamping nut at the lower end of the dust shield.

(4) Hold the guide clamp nut at the top of the dust shield and unscrew the dust shield. Slide the cable clamping nut and dust shield down the control cable. Slip the ball end of the control cable out of the socket.

(5) Disconnect the accelerator link ball joint from the armature lever.

(6) Remove the brace nut. Remove the two mounting bracket bolts and remove the drive mechanism leaving the mounting bracket attached to the fender splash shield.

DISASSEMBLY OF THE DRIVE MECHANISM

(1) Remove the four screws attaching the cover and remove the cover.

CAUTION

Be careful not to lose the gaskets in the cover groove.

INSTALLATION OF THE SELECTOR CONTROL

ASSEMBLY (IMPERIAL)

(1) Route the control cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

(2) Install the selector head in steering column.

(3) Connect the ground wire and double plug.

(4) Install the attaching nut.

(5) Install the selector knob and the dial on the shaft and tighten the set screw.

(6) Install the pull button knob on the shaft and tighten the set screw. Fig. 46—Snap Ring, Contact Arm, Pintle Shaft

MyMopar.com

Fig. 47—Remove the Black Wire From

Locking Arm Magnetic Coil and Terminal 1

ACCESSORIES 1-29

(6) Disconnect the double plug-in connector from the terminal block (Fig. 48).

(7) Remove the governor spring (Fig. 48).

(8) Remove the ball socket from the end of the compressor rod and remove the compressor rod from the housing.

(9) Remove the guide clamp nut from the housing.

(10) Remove the compressor rod guide.

(11) Disconnect the spring from the armature lever and remove the armature lever.

(12) Remove the gauge bolt and washer. Remove the two pintle screws and washers located under the locking arm (Fig. 49).

(13) Lift the pintle assembly out of the housing.

(2) Disconnect the green motor wire from the terminal block (Fig. 38).

MOTE: Do not straighten, the terminal fitting, as it has an angle to prevent grounding on the housing cover (Fig. 38).

(3) Disconnect the red motor wire at the bottom of the contact point # 1 on the magnet assembly

(Fig. 46).

(4) Disconnect the black wire from the terminal on the locking arm contact point # 2 (Fig. 47).

(5) Remove the nuts attaching the motor to the housing and remove the motor.

NOTE: One nut is inside of housing, the other outside. When pulling the wires through the opening in housing, bring red and black wires through first; then the green wire.

. CAUTION

Be careful not to lose the seal in the groove in the housing.

NOTE: The finger assembly will come out with the pintle assembly.

(14) Remove the locking arm and spring washer from the pintle shaft.

(15) Remove the snap ring from the end of the pintle shaft and remove the contact arm from the shaft (Fig. 46).

(16) Remove the magnet and throttle over-ride switch assembly from the pintle shaft.

Fig. 48

—

Remove the Connector From the

Terminal Block Fig, 49—Removing the Pintle Screws and Gauge Bolt

MyMopar.com

1-30 ACCESSORIES

CAUTION

Do not remove the switch on the magnet assembly, as the two electrical contact points in the switch are not serviceaible, nor adjustable.

(17) Remove the screw attaching the terminal block to the housing and remove the terminal block.

(18) In order to remove the drive screw assembly, remove the three screws from the serial number plate and remove the plate. Remove the drive screw assembly from the motor end of the housing.

CAUTION

When handling the drive screw assembly, keep the parts clean, as dirt particles can become wedged between the small ball bearings in the nut and cause the nut to stick.

(19) Remove the three screws attaching the speedometer adapter to the housing and remove the adapter and nylon gear.

NOTE: The governor assembly and drive mechanism housing are serviced as a single unit.

Do not disassemble.

ASSEMBLY OF THE DRIVE MECHANISM

(1) Lubricate the nylon gear with MoPar Lubriplate, and insert the gear in the housing on the bottom of the drive mechanism. Install the speedometer adapter and attach with the three screws (Fig. 50).

(2) Lubricate the drive worm and nut assembly with MoPar Lubriplte and install the assembly in in the motor end of the housing (Fig. 51). Install the serial number plate. Attach the plate and drive screw assembly with the three screws.

Do not overtighten the screws.

Fig. 51

—

Drive Worm and Nut Assembly

(3) Install the pintle shaft in the collar end of the bushing in the magnet assembly.

(4) Install the contact arm on the end of the pintle shaft and attach with the snap ring.

(5) Install the locking arm on the pintle shaft.

(6) Install the finger assembly on the ball joint of the contact arm.

(7) Install the complete assembly in the housing

(Fig. 52). Position the finger assembly over the governor shaft, align the bracket tangs on the bottom of the magnet assembly with the grooves i n the drive screw nut. Press down on the complete assembly until i t seats itself in the housing.

(8) Install the throttle over-ride switch (Fig.

Fig. 50

—

Assembling the Speedometer Cable Adapter Fig.

52

—

Installing the Complete Pintle Assembly

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES

1-31

Fig, 53 —Installing

the Over-ride

Switch Fig.

55—Install the Ball Socket on the Compressor Rod

53). -Install the two pintle screws and washers to attach the pintle assembly in the housing.

NOTE : The longer of the two pintle screws attaches the throttle over-ride switch, and is located in the foremost location.

(9) Install the gauge stud and washer.

(10) Install the armature lever on the locking arm.

(11) Install the armature lever spring.

(12) Install the terminal block on the housing with the numbered connector blades toward the outside of the housing. Attach the terminal block with the flat head screw. Plug the connector onto the terminal block.

(13) Rotate the drive screw until the magnet is in an upright position. Install the motor on the housing. Make certain that the end of the motor shaft engages in the slot of the drive screw. Install the motor mounting nuts and tighten.

CAUTION

Do not tighten by the use of a screwdriver on slotted bolt heads as this may result in binding of the motor bearings.

(14) Route the black motor wire over the pintle

Fig. 54—Attaching the Wire to Contact Point No. 2 Fig. 56—Installing the Drive and Speedometer Cables

MyMopar.com

1-32 ACCESSORIES shaft between the legs of the magnet assembly, and connect the wire to the terminal on the locking arm

(Fig. 54).

(15) Route the red motor wire under the pintle shaft, loop the wire back over the pintle shaft and connect the wire at the bottom of the contact point

# 1 . Attach i t with a screw and washer.

(16) Connect the green motor wire to the single connector on the terminal block.

(17) Install the compressor rod guide in the housing with the dimple in the rod guide facing the finger assembly.

(18) Install the guide clamp nut on the housing and tighten.

(19) Lubricate the compressor rod with MoPar

Lubriplate and Install the compressor rod In the guide. Install the governor spring.

(20) Install the ball socket on the end of the compressor rod. While holding the housing in an upright position, tighten the ball socket until i t touches the bottom of the guide clamp nut (Fig. 55).

NOTE: Do not tighten the ball socket so far as to allow the compressor rod cap to compress on the governor spring.

(21) Loosen the ball socket two complete turns.

(This provides the correct low speed calibration for the drive mechanism).

(22) Install the cover, making certain that the rubber and felt gaskets are properly seated in the grooves of the cover and housing. Attach the cover with the four screws.

INSTALLATION OF THE DRIVE MECHANISM

(1) Attach the drive mechanism to the mounting bracket.

(2) Connect the accelerator link ball joint to the armature lever. Adjust the accelerator linkage as described under "Linkage Adjustments".

(3) Install the ball end of the control cable in the ball socket on the bottom of the drive mechanism. Install the dust shield. Adjust the control cable.

(4) Connect the drive cable and the speedometer cable (Fig. 56).

(5) Connect the terminal plug.

SEHVICE DIAGNOSIS

RADIO

Condition

Radio is Inoperative

Radio Reception is

Weak

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Blown fuse. (a) Replace the fuse.

(b) Broken, loose or shorted antenna (b) Test with an auxiliary antenna and lead-in. replace lead-in if necessary.

(c) Loose battery cable. (c) Test the voltage at the fuse and tighten all connections.

(d) Burned out tube.

(e) Faulty speaker.

(f) Faulty antenna.

(d) Test all tubes and replace weak ones.

(e) Replace the speaker.

(f) Test the antenna and repair.

(a) Unbalanced antenna trimmer.

(b) Loose antenna lead-in.

(c) Shorted antenna lead-in.

(d) Weak radio tube.

(e) Faulty antenna.

(a) Adjust the antenna trimmer.

(b) Tighten the antenna lead-in.

(c) Test with an auxiliary antenna and replace lead-in if necessary.

(d) Test and replace weak tubes.

(e) Test the antenna and correct.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-33

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS CONT'D

RADIO

Condition

Radio Reception is

Noisy (Engine

Running)

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Move the ear or shut off interference. (a) Outside electrical interferences.

(b) Insufficient or faulty radio suppressors.

(c) Faulty radio tube.

(b) Install suppressors in ignition system.

Radio Reception is

Noisy (Car i n Motion)

(a) Static build up in tires.

(b) Loose antenna or lead-in .wire.

(c) Test and replace faulty tube.

(a) Ground the tires to the wheels with powdered graphite.

(b) Tighten the antenna attaching nut.

Inspect the fit of the antenna lead-in plug in the socket.

Radio is Noisy When

Equipment is Operated

(a) Loose antenna ground.

Radio Reception is Distorted

Search Tuner Runs

Continuously

(a) Speaker coil rubbing on voice core.

(b) Torn speaker cone.

(c) Faulty radio tubes.

(a) Clean and tighten the antenna connections.

(a) Install an auxiliary speaker and compare. Replace if improved.

(b) Replace the speaker.

(0 Test and replace any faulty tubes.-

(a) Car located in a weak signal (a) Move the car to a strong signal areaarea

(b) Faulty radio tube. (b) Test and replace any faulty tubes.

I n t e r m i t t e n t

Reception

(a) Broken lead-in wire.

(b) Grounded lead-in wire.

(c) Faulty radio tube.

(a) Test with a substitute antenna. Repair the lead-in wire.

(b) Test with a substitute antenna. Repair the lead-in wire or replace.

(c) Test the radio tubes and replace as necessary.

Insufficient Heat

Too Much Heat

HEATEB

(a) Coolant too low. (a) Fill the radiator.

(b)

Temperature

valve

not

opening.

(c) Engine thermostat open.

(b) Inspect the valve and repair as needed.

(c) Replace the thermostat.

(d) Damaged vacuum line to shutoff damper.

(d) Replace the vacuum line.

(e) Obstructed heater hose.

(f) Leaking lower radiator hose.

(e) Replace the heater hose.

(f) Correct the leak, and bleed the system.

(a) Temperature valve stuck in open(a) Free up the temperature valve and position. cable.

(b) Disengaged cable.

(c) Thermostat stuck in closed position.

(b) Connect or replace the cable.

(c) Replace the thermostat.

(d) Damaged vacuum line to damper. (d) Replace the vacuum line to damper.

MyMopar.com

1-34 ACCESSORIES

SEHV1CE

DIAGNOSIS CONT'D

HEATER

Condition

Blower Motor not

Operating

Possible Cause

(a) Blown fuse.

(b) Faulty electrical connection.

(c) Faulty blower switch.

(d) Faulty motor.

Correction

(a) Replace the fuse.

(b) Tighten all electrical connections.

(c) Replace the blower switch.

(d) Replace the motor.

Unit Not Operating

Tube Not Lighted

AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGER

(a) Poor grounding of control units. (a) Clean and tighten all control units.

(b) Electrical circuit not properly (b) Trace the schematic diagram. wired.

(c) Faulty dimmer switch.

(d) Faulty tube.

(c) Replace the dimmer switch.

(d) Replace the tube.

(e) Faulty scanner.

(f)

Faulty control units.

(e) Replace the scanner.

(f) Replace the faulty control units.

(g) Improperly focused scanner unit. (g) Focus the scanner unit.

(h) Loose cover screws. (h) Tighten the cover screws as they also ground the unit.

(a) Faulty dimmer switch. (a) Replace the dimmer switch.

(b) Poor grounding of control units. (b) Remove, clean and reinstall the control units.

(c) Faulty tube.

(d) Poor electrical connection.

(c) Replace the faulty tube.

(d) Clean and tighten all electrical connections.

Mirror Does Not

T i l t

ELECTRONIC REAR VIEW MIRROR

(a) Broken wire or loose connection. (a) Trace wiring and clean and lighten all electrical connections.

(b) Burned out tube or transistor. (b) Test the tube and transistor and replace If defective.

(c) Mirror not grounded. (c) Clean and tighten the mirror and attaching screws.

Flip Angle Inadequate (a) Chassis stop tab angle Incorrect. (a) Bend the stop tab to proper position. or Excessive

Tube Does Not Light (a) Low battery voltage.

(b) Faulty tube.

(c) Broken circuit.

(a) Recharge the battery.

(b) Test and replace if weak.

(c) Test the circuit for open leads and repair.

Sensitivity Not W i t h i n (a) Potentiometer out of adjust-

Specified Limits ment.

(a) Recalibrate the potentiometer.

(b) Possible difference of sensitivity (b) Test and compare several new tubes of a new tube on replacement. and select a tube within specifications.

MyMopar.com

Condition

Motor Does Not Run

Fluid from only

One Nozzle

Pump Does Not

Operate

ACCESSORIES 1-35

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS CONT'D

ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WASHER

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Loose wiring terminals.

(b) Corroded terminals.

(c) Broken wires.

(d) Faulty switch.

(e) Shorted motor.

(f) Poor ground.

(a) Tighten the terminals.

(b) Clean and tighten the terminals.

(c) Replace the wires.

(d) Replace the switch.

(e) Replace the assembly.

(f) Clean the housing and tighten.

(a) Dirt In the nozzle. (a) Blow out the nozzle with compressed air.

(b) Broken or torn hose.

(c) Pinched or kinked hose.

(b) Replace the hose.

(e) Replace the hose.

(d) Hose disconnected from nozzle. (d) Install the hose on the nozzle.

(a) Motor does not operate.

(b) Broken coupling.

(c) Faulty pump.

(d) Reservoir dry. fa) Replace the unit.

(b) Replace the unit.

(c) Replace the unit.

(d) Fill the reservoir.

AUTO PILOT

NOTE: I t is recommended that the diagnosis be performed In the sequence outlined. Do not disastlons are performed and it Is proven beyond any doubt that the control assembly or Auto-Pilot unit semble the Auto-Pilot unit, or the control assembly, until all the diagnosis and adjustment opera- is at fault.

Speedometer Noise

Blowing Fuses

No Speed Control

Response

(a) Cables bent or kinked.

(b) Lack of cable lubrication.

(c) Noisy speedometer head assembly.

(a)

(b)

(c) vd) Noisy nylon gear or metal drive (d) gear. assembly.

(a) Short or ground in wiring circuit.

(b) Locked drive screw.

(a)

(b)

Test for short or ground.

B replace as required.

Inspect the drive screw for damage. Replace if necessary.

(a) Accelerator linkage broken or (a) disconnected.

(b) Drive cables broken or disconnected.

(b)

(c) Damaged nylon gear or drive (c) gear.

(d) Blown fuse. (d)

(e) Loose connections or broken wires

(internal or external).

(e)

Connect or replace the link adjust.

Replace the nylon gear or the housing assembly.

Replace and locate and correct the cause.

Test for current at the unit. Repair the wires or tighten the wiring connections as required.

MyMopar.com

1-36

ACCESSORIES

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS CONT'D

AUTO PILOT

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Constant Pressure on

Accelerator Pedal

Regardless of

Selector Setting

(a) Blown fuse.

(b) No current at # 1 terminal.

(c) Control cable Improperly adjusted.

(d) Inoperative motor or locked drive screw.

(a) Replace the fuse. Locate and correct the cause of blowing fuse.

(b) Test for current at # 1 terminal.

(c) Properly adjust the cable.

(d) Test the operation of motor. Correct as required. If the drive screw is locked, test the motor for possible damage.

Automatic Control

Does Not Engage

When Button is

Pulled Out

(a) Driver riding the brake pedal. (a) Instruct the owner of Auto-Pilot oper-

Driver does not hold accelerator ation and demonstrate. against back pressure when pulling the button.

(b) No current at the #2 terminal. (b) Perform the electrical test and correct as required.

(c) Loose or disconnected ground (c) Tighten or connect the ground wire. wire between the selector assembly and terminal #3.

(d) Inoperative switch in the selector assembly.

(d) Test the switch and current at terminal #3.

(e) Magnet assembly does not latch. (e) Inspect and adjust the locking arm latch.

(f) Inoperative magnet. (f) Replace the magnet assembly.

Automatic Selector

Engages at Selected

(a) Ground wire (#3 to selector) is (a) Test for ground in the circuit and grounded. repair as required.

Speed W i t h o u t Pulling (b) Inoperative grounding switch in (b) Test at terminal # 3, and install a new

Pull B u t t o n Knob the selector assembly. control if necessary.

Automatic Control

Remains Engaged

When Brake Pedal is Touched

(a) Inoperative brake switch. (a) Test at terminal #2. Adjust brake switch.

Pulsating Accelerator (a) Speedometer cable or drive cable (a) Straighten and align the cables. Re-

Pedal linked. place if necessary.

(b) Lack of lubrication. (b) Lubricate the cables.

(c) Improper accelerator linkage adjustment.

(c) Adjust the accelerator linkage properly.

(d) Improper locking arm latch adjustment.

(d) Inspect and adjust the locking arm latch.

(e) # 1 and #2 contact points improperly adjusted.

(e) Inspect and adjust the point clearance.

Carburetor Does Not

Return to Normal Idle

(a) Improper carburetor or accelerator linkage adjustment.

(a) Adjust the throttle control and accelerator linkage.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORIES 1-37

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS CONT'D

AUTO PILOT

Condition

Speedometer Does Not

Register or Unit

Does Not Operate

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Speedometer drive pinion in the transmission damaged.

(b) Broken speedometer cable.

(c) Broken drive cable from transmission to the drive mechanism.

(d) Faulty speedometer.

(e) Damaged drive gear or nylon gear in the drive mechanism.

(a) Replace the speedometer drive pinion.

(b) Replace the speedometer cable.

(c) Replace the drive cable.

(d) Remove and repair the speedometer.

(e) Replace the nylon gear. If the metal drive gear is damaged, replace the housing assembly.

MyMopar.com

GHOUP

2

FRONT SUSPENSION

FRONT SUSPENSION 24

CONTENTS

Page

Front Suspension Alignment • 5

Front Suspension Height Adjustment 4

Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment 4

Lower Ball Joints 7

Lower Control Arm and Shaft 10

Lower Control Arm Strut 9

Preparation for Measuring Front End Alignment 3

Service Diagnosis * • • • • 14

Steering Knuckles 12

Steering Linkage. 13

Sway Bar 8

Torsion Bars

6

Upper Ball Joints. • • • • • • 8

Upper Control Arm 11

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

SC-l—SC-2 SC-3 SY-1

CAMBER

Left + X° to + U° (Preferred + H°)

Right 0° t o + . ^ ° (Preferred + K°)

CASTER

Manual Steering 0° to - 1 °

Power Steering +H°to+l

1

A°

MyMopar.com

2-2 FRONT SUSPENSION

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

SC-l SC-2 SC-3 SY-1

HEIGHT

All models except Town & Country and C-300H

(High performance) models .

Town & Country models

SC-2-C-300H (High Performance)

Side to Side Difference (Maximum)

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION

TOE-IN

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

THREAD

Front (inches)

Rear (inches)

WHEEL BASE (Inches)

2 inches ± J/g inch

2% inches ± }/% inch

1% inches ± y$ inch

Y% inch

5H° to 7 ^ °

% inch to % inch (preferred

l

/% inch)

21 H° when Inner Wheel is 20°

60.9

59.7

122

60.9

59.7

126

61.7

62.2

129

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds Inch-Pounds

BALL JOINT I N CONTROL ARMS (SC-l, SC-2) 125 (min.)

JOINTS I N CONTROL ARM (SC-3, SY-1) 150 (min.)

LOWER BALL JOINT STUD 135

UPPER BALL JOINT STUD % (SC-l, SC-2) 100

Vs (SC-3, SY-1) 135

LOWER CONTROL ARM

Bumper Nut 200

Shaft Nut-Outer % (SC-l, SC-2) 180

Vs (SC-3, SY-1) 200

Inner % 100

Strut Bolt Nut 100

Strut Bushing Nut 50

UPPER CONTROL A R M

Bumper Nut 200

Support Bracket Cam Bolt Nut 65

SWAY ELIMINATOR SHAFT

Cushion Retainer Bolt Nut 35

Frame Bracket Screws 150

Link Nut 100

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS

Upper Mounting Nut 25

Lower Mounting Nut 55

STEERING KNUCKLE TO STEERING KNUCKLE ARM NUT 80

STEERING KNUCKLE TO BRACKET SUPPORT BOLT 55

MyMopar.com

FRONT SUSPENSION 2-3

GROUP 2

FRONT SUSPENSION

All ball joints and the torsion bars at the front of the rear anchors are effectively sealed against road splash by tightly fitted balloon type flexible seals.

The ball joints are of the semi-permanent lubricated type and should not under normal operating conditions require lubrication with the special lubricant before 32,000 miles.

Lower ball joints should not be replaced for looseness i f the axial end play (Up and Down movement) is under .050". Looseness of this nature is not detrimental and will not affect front end alignment.

CAUTION

W H I N LUBRICATION OF THE BALL JOINTS

IS NECESSARY, USE A HAND TYPE LUBRI-

CATION GUN ONLY, FILLED WITH £2265833

LUBRICANT. USE OF PRESSURE TYPE LUBRI-

CATION EQUIPMENT MAY DAMAGE THE BAL-

LOON TYPE SEALS.

The tie rod end seals and protectors should be inspected at all oil change periods. Damaged seals necessitate replacement of the tie rod and assembly.

The tie rod end seal protectors are serviced separately.

When re-lubrication of the ball joints is required, it is necessary to remove the plugs from the ball joints and install grease fittings. After lubrication is complete, remove the grease fittings and reinstall the plugs.

NOTE: RUBBER BUSHINGS SHOULD NOT BE

LUBRICATED AT ANY TIME. When replacement of a bushing is necessary, water may be used to aid

In installation.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

PREPARATION FOE MEASURING FRONT END

ALIGNMENT

The method of measuring alignment will vary depending on the type of equipment being used. The instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the equipment should always be followed, however, the specifications as recommended by the Chrysler Corporation should always be followed.

All measurements and adjustments should be made in the following order.

1. Front Suspension Height

2. Caster and Camber

3. Toe-in

4. Steering Axis Inclination

5. Toe-Out on Turns

The measurement of steering axis inclination and toe-out on turns is valuable in determining i f parts are bent, or damaged. Bent or damaged suspension and steering linkage parts must be replaced. When replacements of this kind are made, i t is important that other front end parts are inspected and front suspension aligned.

Before any attempt is made to check or correct caster, camber and toe-in, the following preliminary inspections and necessary corrections must be made on those parts which influence the steering of the car.

(1) Inflate tires to recommended pressure. A l l tires should be the same size, in good condition and have equal wear. Note the type of wear to aid in diagnosing. (See 'Wheel, Bearings and Tires"

Group 22).

(2) Inspect the suspension and steering linkage pivot points for excessive looseness; rear springs for proper tightness of "U" bolts and height differential between left and right sides of car. (The car shall be on a level floor or alignment rack) and should have a full fuel tank but no luggage or passenger load.

(3) Adjust the front wheel bearings (Paragraph

"Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment"). Measure

MyMopar.com

24 FRONT SUSPENSION

Fig. 1—Adjusting the Front Wheel Bearings front wheel and tire assembly runout (Follow Equipment Manufacturers Instructions).

(4) To obtain accurate readings, the car should be jounced in the following manner just prior to taking each measurement (Height - Caster - Camber and Toe-in): Grasp the bumpers at the center (rear bumper first) and jounce the car up and down several times. Release the bumpers on the down cycle after jouncing both rear and front of car an equal number of times. proper front wheel alignment and reduced tire wear.

The heights should only be measured when the vehicle has the recommended tire pressures, a full tank of fuel, no passenger load and is placed on a level floor.

(1) Clean all foreign material from the bottom of the lower ball joint assemblies and from the bottom of the lower control arm bushing housings between the flanges of the arms.

(2) Jounce the car several times releasing i t on the downward motion.

(3) Measure the distance from the lowest point of one of the lower control arm bushing housings to the floor (measurement A) and from the flat portion on the bottom of the lower ball joint on the same side (measurement B) to the floor (Fig. 2). Measure only one side at a time. The differential between measurement A and B should be as follows:

All Models (except Town & Country and C-300H)

—2 inches

± l

/s

inch Town and Country —2% inches dri/g inch

SC -2 — C-300H (High Performance) - 1 % inches

±:Vs

inch.

(4) Measure the other side in the same manner.

The difference from side to side should be no more than Va inch.

(5) Adjust i f necessary by turning in the torsion bar adjusting bolt to increase the height and backing off the bolt to decrease the height.

(6) After each adjustment, jounce the car before rechecking measurements. Both sides should be measured even though only one side has been adjusted.

FRONT WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT (Fig.

1)

(1) Tighten the wheel bearing and adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel.

(2) Position the nut lock on nut with one pair of slots in line with the cotter pin hole.

(3) Back off the lock and adjusting nut to the next slot.

(4) Install the cotter pin.

(5) Clean the grease cap, coat the inside with wheel bearing lubricant (do not fill) and install. b.

Using Height and Level Gauge Tool C-3608

(1) Clean the bottom of the lower control arm ball joints and the control arm bushing housings.

FRONT SUSPENSION HEIGHT ADIUSTMENT a. Without Using Tool C-3608

All models (except Town and Country, and C-300H)

—2 inches ±Vs inch (Town and Country —2% inches ± % inch) (SC-2 — C-300H (High Performance) — 1% inches ±V6 inch).

Front suspension heights must be held to specifications for a satisfactory ride, correct appearance.

57x267

Fig. 2—Checking the Front Suspension Height

MyMopar.com

FRONT SUSPENSION 2-5

(2) With the measuring pins of Tool C-3608 retracted, latch the tool retaining springs securely to the flanges of the control arms, making sure that the stop pads on the ends of the tool are in contact with the cleaned area of the ball joints (Figs. 3 and

4).

(3) Carefully unlatch the measuring pins and guide them into contact with the cleaned surface of the bushing housings.

(4) Jounce the car as outlined in Step 4, Paragraph "Preparation for measuring Front End Alignment."

(5) The reading on both measuring pins should be as follows:

All Models (except Town & County and C-300H)

—2 inches ztVs inch) (Town and Country —2% inches +V b

inch) (SC-2 — C-300H (High Performance) — 1% inches ±Yg inch).

(6) Adjust, i f necessary, by turning the torsion bar anchor bolt clockwise to increase the height and counter-clockwise to decrease the height (Fig. 5).

I f it is necessary to adjust the anchor bolts, measure the torque required to move the bolt clockwise. I f it requires over 200 foot-pounds, replace the anchor adjusting bolt.

(7) After adjusting, jounce the car and read both gauges even though only one side may have been adjusted.

Fig. 4 —Height & Level Gauge Installed

(Caster — Power Steering +V

4

° to +t

1

A°

Manual Steering 0° to —1°

(Toe-In — %

2

t o %

2

inch (Preferred y% inch)

Front suspension alignment settings must be held to specifications to hold tire wear to a minimum and to maintain steering ease and handling of the vehicle.

Alignment measurements should only be taken with the tires inflated to the recommended pressure, no passenger load, correct car height, full tank of fuel, and with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels.

The equipment manufacturers recommended procedure should always be followed. Any parts of the front suspension system should be replaced i f they are found to be bent. Do not attempt to straighten any bent part.

FRONT SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT

(Camber — L e f t wheel +M

0

to + % ° (Preferred

+ % ° )

(Eight wheel 0° to

+V2

0

(Preferred a.

Camber and Caster

(1) Eemove all foreign material from the exposed

•threads of the cam adjusting bolts.

(2) Prepare the vehicle for measurement as outlined in Paragraph "Preparation For Measuring

Front End Alignment."

CROSS MEMBER

Fig. 3—Height & Level Gauge in Position (Right Side)

TORSION BAR 60x100

Fig. 5—Torsion Bar Adjustment Bolt

MyMopar.com

2-6 FRONT SUSPENSION

(3) Take the initial camber and caster readings before loosening the cam bolt nuts.

(4) Camber and caster should be adjusted, i f necessary, to the following specifications:

Camber —Left wheel

+V4,

0

to 4-%° (preferred

Eight Wheel 0° to +U° (preferred

Caster — Power Steering +

1

4 ° to + 1 % °

Manual Steering 0° to - 1 °

(5) Camber settings should

be held

as close as possible to the "preferred" setting. Caster should be- held as nearly equal as possible on both wheels.

Fig. 6—Torsion Bar Lock Ring b. Toe-in (3/32 to 5/32 inch Preferred 1/8 inch)

The toe setting should be the final operation of the front wheel alignment

adjustments.

The front wheels must be in a stranght ahead

position.

Follow the equipment manufacturers procedure. The steering wheel should be centered during this operation.

Turning both tie rod sleeves will "center" the steering wheel. I f steering wheel was centered, make the toe-in adjustment by turning both sleeves an equal amount. Be sure and tighten the clamp in such a position that the bolts are on the bottom, otherwise interference can result. car sufficiently to disengage the forward end from the lower control arm. Slide the torsion bar forward and down, disengaging it from the anchor. Remove the torsion bar from under the car. b. Installation

(1) Before installing the torsion bar, obtain a new adjusting bolt, swivel and torsion bar balloon seal. Install the torsion bar as follows:

(2) The torsion bars are marked (E) right and

(L) left on the end. I t is important that each torsion bar is installed on its respective side.

TORSION BA1S

The torsion bars are not interchangeable side for side. The bars will be indicated as either right or left by an "E" or an " L " (right or left hand side) stamped on the end of the bars. a. Removal

C A U T I O N

If the vehicle is to be raised on a hoist, make sure it is supported by the frame only so that the front suspension is in full rebound (under no load).

(1) Place a jack under the center of the front cross-member and raise the vehicle off the floor, so the front suspension is in full rebound, (under no load).

(2) Eelease the . load from the torsion bar by backing off the anchor adjusting bolts (Fig 5). Eemove the bolt and swivel and discard.

(3) Eemove the plastic seal from the rear end of the torsion bar anchor. Eemove the lock ring from the rear of the torsion bar anchor (Fig. 6).

(4) Slide the torsion bar toward the rear of the Fig.

7 —Torsion Bar Rear Support Assembly

MyMopar.com

FRONT SUSPENSION 2-7

(3) Slide the new balloon seal over the- torsion bar (cupped side toward rear anchor).

(4) Apply a liberal coating of chassis lubricant around each end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar should be coated equal to the depth of the anchor hub socket.

(5) Install the torsion bar (Fig. 7).

(6) Turn the torsion bar until the anchor end is positioned approximately 120 degrees (eight o-clock or four o'clock position) down from the frame.

(7) Engage the front end of the bar in the hex opening of the lower control arm. I f the anchor end is not in the position just described when installing the torsion bar, i t will be impossible to adjust the front suspension to the correct height.

(8) Before installing the lock ring, center the bar so that full contact is obtained at anchor and arm shaft. Install the lock ring, making sure it is seated in its groove.

(9) Pack the annular opening in the rear anchor completely full of muti-purpose lubricant. Position the lip of the seal in the groove in the anchor hub.

Install the plastic seal into the rear end of the torsion bar anchor.

(10) Slide the adjusting bolt swivel in position on the frame. Hold in position while installing the new adjusting bolt and seat. Tighten the bolt into a new swivel until approximately I inch of threads are showing out of the swivel. This is an approximate setting and is to be used only as a starting point when adjusting for correct height. This setting is also necessary to place a load on the torsion bar before lowering the vehicle to the floor.

(11) Lower the vehicle to the floor, then measure and adjust the suspension as required.

Lower ball joints should not be replaced for looseness i f the axial end play (Up and down Movement) is under .050 inch. Looseness of this nature is normal and will not affect front end alignment. a. Removal

Fig. 9—Removing the Ball Joint

LOWER BALL JOINTS

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm and raise the vehicle.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

(3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint and nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over the upper stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking i t securely against the lower stud (Fig. 8). Spread the tool enough to place the lower stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

(5) Using Tool C-3560 for Models SC-l and SC-2, or Tool C-3561 for Models SC-3 and SY-1, as shown in Figure 9, unscrew the ball joint housing from the lower control arm and remove.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

Fig. 8—Removing the Lower Ball Joint from Knuckle b. Installation

NOTE : When installing the new ball joint, i t is very

MyMopar.com

2-8 FRONT SUSPENSION important that the ball joint threads properly engage those of the control arm,

(1) Screw the ball joint into the control arm as far as possible by hand.

(2) Using Tool C-3560 for Models SC-l and SC-2 or Tool C-3561 for Models SC-3 and SY-1, tighten the ball joint housing to a minimum of 125 footpounds torque on (SC-l and SC-2) Models, and 150 foot-pounds on (SC-3 and SY-1) Models, until seated in the control arm.

(3) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body. Using Tool C-3736 on Models

SC-l and SC-2, Tool C-3867 on Models SC-3 and SY-1 install the seals. To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.

(4)

Position the stud in the steering knuckle, install the washer and nut. Torque tighten to 115 footpounds (SC-l and SC-2), 135 foot-pounds (SC-3 and

SY-1) and install the cotterpin.

(5) Lubricate the joint with the specified lubricant (by means of a hand gun only) through the plug hole in the bottom of the housing, until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(6) Install the wheel and tire and adjust front wheel bearings.

UPPER BALL JOINTS a. Removal

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise the wheel off the floor.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

(3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 down over the lower stud unt i l the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking i t securely against upper stud (Fig. 10). Spread the tool enough to place the upper stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckl sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

(5) Using Tool C-3560 for Models SC-l, and SC-2 or Tool C-3561 for Models SC-3 and SY-1 (Fig. 9) unscrew the ball joint from the upper control arm.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

Fig. 10 —Removing from

SWAY BAR (Models so equipped) a. Removal

(1) Remove the two sway bar link retaining nuts and concave washers.

the

the Upper Ball Joint

Knuckle b. Installation

When installing a new ball joint, it is very important that the ball joint threads properly engage those of the control arm.

(1) Screw the ball joint squarely into the control arm as far as possible by hand.

(2) Using Tool C-3560, <$r C-3561 according to

Model indicated as above, tighten until the ball joint housing is seated on the control arm. Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on (SC-l and

SC-2) Models, and 150 foot-pounds (SC-3 and SY-1)

Models.

(3) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body using Tool C-3736 on Models

SC-l and SC-2, Tool C-3867 on Models SC-3 and SY-

1, install the seals. To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.

(4) Position the stud in the steering knuckle.

Install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut on SC-

1 and SC-2 Models 100 foot-pounds and on SC-3 and

SY-1 Models 135 foot-pounds. Install the cotterpin.

(5) Repack the ball joint with the specified lubricant (by means of a hand gun only) through the plug hole in the top, until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(6) Install the wheel and tire and adjust the front wheel bearing (Paragraph "Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment."

MyMopar.com

FRONT SUSPENSION 2-9

(2) Remove the two sway bar cushion retaining nuts, lockwashers and bolts, (one to each strut).

Slide the sway bar out through the control arm struts and away from the vehicle. The sway" bar cushions are not serviced separately. I f replacement is necessary, install a new sway bar assembly.

Remove the lower concave washers.

(3) Remove the sway bar link insulating bushings from the frame bracket. I f bushings are worn or deteriorated, install new bushings as required. attach the sway bar bushing, housings to the struts, disconnect the sway bar from the struts.

(2) Remove the strut to the lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts.

(3) Remove the nut and bushing retainer from the forward end of strut at the crossmember.

(4) Slide the strut and inner bushing retainer from the bushing in the frame.

(5) Using a screwdriver, pry the bushing out of the front of the frame. b.

Installation

• l ) Dip the new sway bar link bushings in water and install in the opening in the frame bracket, using a twisting motion. When installed properly, the groove in the bushing will index with opening in the frame bracket.

(2) Thread the sway bar into position over the top of the lower control arm struts.

(3) Engage the sway bar cushion housings with me struts and install lock plates. Insert the bolts, lockwashers and nuts and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Install the washers over the ends of the links

(concave side up), then slide the links up through the bushings. Install the washers (concave side down), over the ends-of the links and down-on the bushings. Install the nuts and tighten to 100 inch pounds torque.

LOWER CONTROL MM STRUT a.

Removal (Figs. 11 and 12)

(1) Remove the nuts, lockwashers, and bolts that b. Installation

(1) Dip the new bushing in water and with the tapered portion toward rear of the vehicle, install the bushing in the opening in the frame using a twisting motion (and/or hammer) until the groove in the bushing indexes properly with the frame.

(2) With the cupped side out, slide the washer over threaded end of the strut. Push the strut through the bushing in the frame, position the outer washer over the end of the strut ( cupped side in) and install the nut.

(3) Tighten the nut sufficiently to install the strut to the lower control arm mounting bolts. Install the bolts, lockwashers and nuts, and tighten to 100 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Tighten the nut on the forward end of the strut to 50 foot-pounds torque with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels.

(5) Install the sway bar i f so equipped.

(6) Set the front end alignment.

Fig. 1 1—Lower Control Arm Stmt Mounting Fig. 12—Lower Control Arm Mounting

MyMopar.com

2-10 FRONT SUSPENSION

LOWER CONTROL ARM AND SHAFT (Fig.

12) a. Removal

(1) Place a jack under the number 2 erossmember and raise the vehicle until both front wheels clear the floor.

(2) Remove the torsion bar, Paragraph "Torsion

Bars".

(3) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

(4) Disconnect the shock absorber at the lower control arm bracket then push the shock absorber up into the frame out of the way.

(5) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts that attach the strut to the lower control arm.

(6) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over the upper stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the lower stud (Fig. 8). Spread the tool enough to place the lower stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(7) Remove the tool, and disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

(8) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer that attaches the lower control arm shaft to the frame.

With the washer and cotter pin removed, reinstall the nut until it is flush with the end of the shaft to protect the threads.

(9) Using a hammer and brass drift, loosen the shaft (a tapered fit in front crossmember), then remove the nut. Slide the lower control arm and shaft out from the rear of the crossmember.

Fig. 14

—

Removing the Shaft Bushing b. Disassembly

(1) Place the lower control arm in an arbor press

(with torsion bar hex opening up). Press the shaft and bushing out of the control arm, using a brass drift (Fig. 13).

(2) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer from the end of the shaft, and remove the bushing from the shaft (Fig. 14).

(3) Using Tool C-3560 for Models SC-l, and SC-

2, or Tool 3561 for Models SC-3 and SY-1 (Fig. 9) unscrew the ball joint from the lower control arm.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed. c. Assembly

(1) Position the new bushing over the shaft,

(flange end first) and seat on the shoulder of the shaft. Install the washer and nut, then tighten to

100 foot-pounds torque. (Hold shaft securely in vise with protector jaws.) Install the cotter pin.

(2) Press the lower control arm shaft and bushing into the lower control arm with an arbor press,

Fig. 13 — Removing the Lower Control Arm

Shaft Assembly

Fig. 15

—

Installing the Lower Control Arm

Shaft Assembly

57x75

MyMopar.com

or drive into place using Tool C-3556 for Models SC-

1 and SC-2, or Tool C-3557 for Models SC -3 and SY-1, and a hammer (Fig. 15).

(3) Press until the flanged position of the bushing is seated, beyond the locking groove.

(4) Thread the ball joint into the new arm using

Tool C-3560 for models SC-l and SC-2, or Tool C-

3561 for Models SC-3 and SY-1 (Fig. 9).

(5) Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on (SC-l and SC-2) Models, and 150 footpounds on (SC-3 and SY-1) Models until the ball joint is seated (the bail joint will cut threads into the new arm during tightening operation).

FRONT SUSPENSION 2-11

ADJUSTMENT CAM d.

Installation

Before installing the parts, clean all rust scale, and mud and other foreign matter off of the mounting surfaces.

(1) Position the shaft and control arm in the frame crossmember in approximate operating position. Install the washer and nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN the nut until the full weight of the vehicle is on the wheels.

(2) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body and using Tool C-3736 on

Models SC-l and SC-2, Tool C-3867 on Models SC-3 and SY-1 install the seals. To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body. Repack the joint with the specified lubricant, using a hand type grease gun only, through the plug hole in the bottom until the lubricant ;s emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(3) Position the stud in the steering knuckle.

Install the washer and nut. Tighten tc 115 footpounds (SC-l and SC-2), 135 foot-pounds torque

(SC-3 and SY-1) and install the cotter pin.

(4) Pull .town the shock absorber from its position in frame opening and engage with the mounting bracket on the lower control arm. Install the bolt, washer and nut. Tighten to 55 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Position the strut on the lower arm, install the bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten to 100 footpounds torque.

(6)

Install the wheel and tire assembly and tighten in specified sequence (See "Wheels and Tires"

Group 22.)

(7) Adjust the front wheel bearing, Paragraph

"Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment".

(8) Install the. torsion bar, Paragraph "Torsion

Bars".

(9) Tighten the lower control arm shaft the ( % inch) nut to 180 foot-pounds torque for Models SC-l and SC-2 and (% inch) nut 200 foot-pounds torque for Models SC-3 and SY-1. Install the cotter pin.

(10) Lower the vehicle to the floor, then measure and adjust suspension heights as required.

(11) Set the front end alignment.

UPPER a.

Fig.

Removal

18

—

Upper Control Arm Mounting

CONTROL ARM

The upper control arm support mounting brackets are welded to the frame side rails (Fig. 16).

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise the jack until the front wheel clears the floor.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

(3)

Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide the Tool C

-3564

down over the lower stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking i t securely against the upper stud (Fig. 10). Spread the tool enough to place the upper stud under pressure then strike the knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(4)

Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

MyMopar.com

2-12 FRONT SUSPENSION

(5) Eemove the nuts, lockwashers "and bolts attaching the upper control arm bushings to the front and rear support. Lift the upper control arm up and away from the support. b. Disassembly

(1) Eemove the ball joint using Tool C-3560 for

Models SC-l and SC-2 or Tool C-3561 for Models SC-

3

and SY-1 (Fig. 9). The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

(2) Assemble Tool C-3710 over bushing and press the bushing out of the arm (from inside out)

(Fig. 17). Be sure the control arm is firmly supported i f a hammer and drift is used in place of the tool.

NOTE: Tool C-3669 with adapter SP-3233A is the same as Tool C-3710.

Fig. 18 — Installing the Upper Control Arm Bushing c. Assembly

When installing the new bushings, be sure the control arm is supported squarely at the point where the bushing is being pressed in. Do not use oil or grease to aid in installation.

(1) Position the flange end of new bushing in

Tool C-3710 and then support the control arm squarely.

(2) Force the bushings into the control arm

(From outside) until the tapered portion of the bushing seats on the arm (Fig. 18).

(3) Thread the ball joint into the arm, using Tool

C-3560 for Models SC-l and SC-2 or Tool C-3561 for Models SC-3 and SY-1 (Fig. 9).

(4) Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on (SC-l and SC-2) Models, and 150 footpounds on (SC-3 and SY-1) Models until seated. The ball joint will cut threads into the arm during the tightening operation. After the bushings have been pressed in place, install the upper control arm on the vehicle. d. Installation

(1) Slide the upper control arm into position (Fig.

16). Install the arm washers and nuts and tighten the nuts 55 to 65 foot-pounds torque after setting the front end alignment.

(2) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body and using Tool C-3736 on Models SC-l and SC-2, Tool C-3867 on Models SC-3 and

SY-1 install the seals.

To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body. Repack the joint with specified lubricant, using a hand type grease gun only, through the plug hole in the top, until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(3) Position the stud in the steering knuckle.

Install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut on SC-l and SC-2 Models 100 foot-pounds and on SC-3 and

SY-1 Models 135 foot-pounds torque. Install the cotterpin.

(4) Install the wheel and tire and tighten in specified sequence (See "Wheel and Tires" Group 22).

Adjust the front wheel bearing. Remove the jack.

(5) Set the front end alignment.

Fig. 17

—

Removing the Upper Control Arm Bushing

STEERING KNUCKLES a. Removal

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as

MyMopar.com

FRONT SUSPENSION 243

near to the wheel as possible. Remove the wheel, tire and drum. Be sure the brake shoes are covered to prevent dirt or grease from soiling the lining.

(2) Remove the cotter pins, nuts and lockwashers that attach the steering arm and brake dust shield to the steering knuckle-. Remove the steering arm, brake dust shield, brake -supports and shoes from the steering knuckle as an assembly but leaving the brake hose attached. Do not allow the assembly to hang by the brake hose.

(3) Remove the ball joint studs from the steering knuckles. Lift the steering knuckle out and away from the vehicle. the lockwashers and nuts on the upper rear and lower front bolts.

(3) Install the upper front and lower rear bolts through dust shield and steering knuckle. Position the steering arm over the bolts. Install lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the steering knuckle to brake support bolts 55 foot-pounds torque and the steering knuckle to steering knuckle arm bolts 80 foot-pounds torque. Install the cotter pins.

(4) Remove the covering from brake shoes. I n stall the wheel, tire and drum assembly. Adjust the front wheel bearings. (Refer to Paragraph "Front

Wheel Bearing Adjustment."). b. Installation

(1) Position the upper and lower ball joint studs into the steering knuckle and install the lock washer and nuts. Tighten the upper ball joint stud nut to

.100 foot-pounds torque on Models SC-l and SC -2 and 135 foot-pounds torque on Models SC-3 and SY-

3 and SY-1. Tighten the lower ball joint stud nut to 115 foot-pounds (SC-l and SC-2), 135 foot-pounds

(SC -2 and SY-1) and install the cotterpin.

(2) Slide the brake dust shield, support and shoe assembly over the knuckle and into position. Install

STEERING LINKAGE (Fig. 19) a. Removal

When removing the tie rod ends, idler arm or steering gear arm, all seals should be closely inspected for wear or damage. The tie rod ends are the permanently lubricated type. I f tie rod or steering arm seals are damaged replace the assembly.

The tie rod and seals and covers should be inspected at all oil change periods. Damaged seals necessitate replacement of the tie rod end assembly.

The tie i*od end seal covers are serviced separately.

Fig. 19-^teermg Linkage

MyMopar.com

2-14 FRONT SUSPENSION

_CAUTION^

Removal of the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arm or center link by methods other than using Tool C-3894 will damage the tie rod end seal, necesitating replacement of the complete tie rod end assembly. link using Tool C-3894.

(1) Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arms using Tool C-3894. Use care not to damage seals.

(2) Using Tool C-3894 remove the inner tie rod ends from the link.

(3) Remove the idler arm stud from the link using Tool C-3894.

(4) Remove the idler arm bolt from the crossmember.

(5) Remove the steering gear arm stud from the b.

Installation

Replace all tie rod and steering arm assemblies that are damaged, worn, or may have damaged seals.

(1) Insert the idler arm and bushing assembly into the bracket using care not to damage the bushing. Insert the bolt and tighten to 85 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Insert the center link studs into the idler arm and steering arm and tighten the nut to 40 footpounds torque.

(3) Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle arms. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

Slide the stone protector into position and install the cotter pins.

(4) Measure and adjust the front wheel toe-in.

Conditions

Front End Noise

Instability

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Causes Corrections

(a) Ball joint needs lubrication (a) Lubricate ball joint

(see Lubrication Group).

(b) Shock absorber and bushings worn (b) Replace bushings. or loose.

(c) Worn strut bushings. (c) Replace bushing.

(d) Loose struts —Lower control arm (d) Tighten all bolts and nuts. bolts and nuts.

(e) Loose steering gear on frame. (e) Tighten the steering gear mounting bolts.

(f) Worn upper control arm bushings. (f) Replace the worn bushings.

(g) Worn lower control arm shaft bushings.

(g) Replace the worn bushings.

(h) Worn upper ball joint. (h) Replace the ball joint.

(i) Worn lower ball joint. (i) Replace the ball joint.

(J) Worn tie rod ends. (J) Replace the tie rod end.

(k) Loose or worn front wheel bearings. (k) Adjust or replace the bearings as necessary

(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(b) Loose wheel bearings.

(c) Improper steering cross shaft adjustment.

(d) Steering gear not centered.

(e) Worn idler arm bushing.

(a) Inflate the tires to correct pressure.

(b) Adjust the wheel bearing.

(c) Adjust the steering cross shaft.

(d) Adjust the steering gear.

(e) Replace the bushing.

(f) Loose or failed front strut bushings. (f) Replace the bushings.

(g) Weak or broken rear spring.

(h) Incorrect front suspension alignment.

(g) Replace the spring.

(h) Check and adjust the front end alignment.

(i) Shock absorber inoperative. (i) Replace the shock absorber.

MyMopar.com

FRONT SUSPENSION 245

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Conditions Possible Causes Corrections

Hard Steering (a) Ball joints—insufficient lubrication.

(b) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(a) Lubricate the ball joints.

(b) Inflate the tires to the recommended pressures.

(c) Low power steering fluid level. (On

Power Steering equipped cars.)

(d) Lack of assist of power steering system.

(c) Fill the power steering pump reservoir to level with MoPar Power Steering Fluid.

(d) Inspect and test the power steering pump and steering gear. Service the power steering pump or gear as required.

(e) Incorrect front end alignment (particularly caster) resulting from one of the following:

(a) Upper control arm bent.

•;b) Lower control arm bent,

(c) Steering knuckle or steering knuckle arm bent.

(e) Replace the bent part, and align suspension.

(f) Steering gear low on lubricant. (f) Fill the steering gear to the correct level.

(g) Steering gear not adjusted properly, (g) Adjust the steering gear.

(h) Idler arm binding. (h) Free-up the idler arm.

Excessive Play I n

Steering

(a) Worn or loose front wheel bearings.

(b) Incorrect steering gear adjustment.

(c) Loose steering gear to frame mounting bolts.

(a) Adjust or replace the wheel bearings as necessary.

(b) Adjust the steering gear.

(c) Tighten the steering gear to frame bolts.

(d) Worn ball joints or tie rod.

(e) Worn steering gear parts.

(f) Worn upper control arm ball joints.

(g) Worn lower control arm ball joints.

(d) Replace the ball joints on- tie rods as necessary.

(e) Replace worn steering gear parts and adjust steering gear as necessary.

(f) Replace the ball joints.

(g) Replace the ball joints.

Front Wheel Shimmy (a) Tire, wheel out of balance. (a) Balance the wheel and tire assembly,

(b) Uneven tire wear, or extremely (b) Rotate or replace the tires as necessary, worn tires.

(c) Worn or loose wheel bearings. (c) Replace or adjust the wheel bearings as necessary.

(d) Worn tie rod ends. (d) Replace the tie rod ends.

(e) Strut mounting bushings loose or (e) Replace the strut mounting bushings, worn.

(f) Incorrect front end alignment (par- (f) Adjust the front end alignment, ticularly caster).

MyMopar.com

246 FRONT SUSPENSION

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Conditions Possible Causes Corrections

Car Pulls to One Side (a) Low or uneven tire pressure. (a) Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure.

(b) Front brake dragging. (b) Adjust the brakes.

(c) Grease, lubricant or brake fluid (c) Replace brake shoe and lining as necesleaking onto brake lining. sary and stop all leaks.

(d) Loose strut bushings. (d) Adjust or replace the strut bushings.

(e) Power steering control valve out of (e) Adjust the steering gear control valve, adjustment.

(f) Incorrect front end alignment (par- (f) Adjust the front end alignment, ticularly camber).

(g) Broken or weak rear spring. (g) Replace the spring.

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-1

GROUP 3

REAR AXLE

CONTENTS

Page

Axle Drive Shafts , . .. 3

Data and Specifications 1

Differential Carrier Assembly Installation 14

Differential Carrier Disassembly 5

Differential Carrier Removal 5

Differential Case Assembly • • -8

Differential Case Assembly Installation. 16

Differential Cleaning and Inspection 7

Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash 14

Gear Tooth Contact Pattern 15

Pinion Bearing Cup Installation 9

Pinion Carrier Pre-Load—Depth of Mesh—Installation Using Tool C-758 (Model SC-l) 9

Pinion Bearing Pre-Load and Pinion Setting (Models SC-2, SC-3, SY-1) Using Tool C-758-D-3. 12

Pinion Bearing Pre-Load and Pinion Setting (Without Using Tool C-758) 13

Welding Rear Axle Housing 16

Service Diagnosis

Sure-Grip Differential Identification.

Sure-Grip Lubrication

Sure-Grip Removal and Installation.

SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

MODELS SC-l, SC-2, SC-3, SY-1

Type Semi-Floating

Gear Type Hypoid

Ring Gear Diameter 8.75 inch

Pinion Bearing - Tapered Roller (2)

Drive Pinion Bearing Pre-Load. 20-30 in. lbs. without seal

Adjustment • - • Shim Pack

Differential Bearings Tapered Roller (2)

Differential Bearing A d j u s t m e n t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Threaded Adjuster

Drive Gear and Pinion Serviced in Matched Sets only

Drive Gear Runout .005 inch (Maximum)

Drive Gear and Pinion Adjustment Select Washer

Drive Gear and Pinion B a c k l a s h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .006 to .008 inch

Differential Side Gear Clearance. .. .001 to .012 inch

Differential Lubricant Capacity. 4 pints

Axle Ratio

(Manual Transmission) SC-l 3.58 to 1

(TorqueFlite Transmission) SC-l, SC-2, SC-3, SY-1 2.93 to 1

Wheel Bearing Axle Shaft End Play. .013 to .023 inch

MyMopar.com

3-2 REAR AXLE

TOHQUE BEFERENCE

(Foot-Pounds)

Axle Shaft N u t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * 145 (min.)

Brake Support Plate to Housing Mounting Bolt Nuts 30 to 35

Differential Bearing Cap Bolts. 90

Differential Carrier to Axle Housing Bolt Nuts 45

Rear Axle Drive Gear to Case Bolts

s

. 60

Rear Axle Drive Pinion Companion Flange Nut 240 (min.)

Spring Clip (U-Bolts) Nuts 50

GROUP 3

1EA1 AXLE

The rear axle assembly (Figs. 1 and 2) may be divided into four subassemblies; axle drive shafts with related parts, differential with ring gear, drive pinion with carrier, and the axle housing. I t is not necessary to remove the entire assembly to service any of the above parts with the exception of the axle housing itself.

SHAFT

Fig. 1—Rear Axle {Imperial and Chrysler except

Newport)

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-3

Fig.

2—Rear Axle (Chrysler Newport SC-l)

SERVICE PROCEDURES

AXLE DRIVE SHAFTS

Removal

(1) Raise the car and remove the rear wheels, hub and drum assembly using puller Tool C-845 or Tool C-319. Do not strike the end of the axle shaft. Use of a knock oif type puller may cause damage to bearings and thrust block.

(2) Block the brake pedal to prevent its being depressed and disconnect the brake lines at the wheel cylinders.

(3) Remove the axle drive shaft key and remove the brake support and dust shield using Tool C-745 to protect the outer seal.

(4) Carefully remove the shim pack from each end of the axle housing. Identify each shim pack as to location to aid in reassembly.

(5) Remove the axle shaft and bearing assembly with Tool C-499 (Fig. 3). I f necessary, the bearings may be removed from the axle shafts with bearing puller Tool C-293 and number 13 adaptors (Fig. 4).

(6) Remove the axle shaft inner oil seals with puller Tool C-637 (Fig. 5). Remove the brake dust shield outer seal with Tool C-3565.

Fig. 3—Removing Axle Drive Shaft and Bearing

Fig. 4—Removing Bearing from Axle Drive Shaft

1. Axle Drive Shaft 2. Tool 3. Bearing

MyMopar.com

34 REAR AXLE

49x713

Fig. 5 —Removing Axle Drive Shaft Inner Seal

Fig. 6—Installing Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal

Cleaning and Inspection

(1) With mineral spirits or dry cleaning solvent, clean the axle shafts, bearings, cups, shims and shim contacting surfaces as well as the counterbores of the axle housing. With the exception of the bearings, dry all parts with compressed air.

(2) Inspect the bearing cones and cups for brinnelling or other visible damage. I f either the bearing cone or cup is unfit for further service, always replace both.

(3) Inspect each axle shaft for signs of fatigue, worn or scored oil seal contacting surfaces, wear or accumulated metal deposits on the thrust block end of shaft, damaged threads, or excessively worn splines. Machine surfaces can usually be satisfactorily cleaned. I f abnormal conditions are noted, the shafts should be replaced.

(4) Inspect the shims for distortion or other visible damage. Discard, any shims unfit for further service.

(5) Inspect the shim contacting surfaces of both the brake support and axle housing for burrs. Remove burrs with crocus cloth i f possible.

(6) I f Inspection above reveals that replacement of either the axle shafts or bearings are necessary, install new bearings on either the original shaft or the new shaft. Make certain that the bearing and axle shaft contacting surfaces are thoroughly cleaned so the bearing when Installed, bottoms against the shoulder of the axle shaft (tapered portion of bearing must face the axle shaft threads.) may be taken up after operating temperatures are reached during normal operation. The loss of end play occurs because the axle shafts expand (lengthwise) more than the axle housing as the temperatures increase. Less than .013 inch end play can result in a preloaded bearing, under these conditions, causing shorter bearing life.

Axle Drive Shaft End Play

(1) When original axle shafts and/or bearings are used, start the measurement of the shaft end play with the original shim packs, after recording thickness of each. Where either or both the axle shaft and bearing are replaced, use shim packs totaling .040 inch per side. Shims are available in thickness of: .005, .0125, .015 and .030 Inch.

(2) Install the inner oil seals with Tool C-839

(Fig. 6).

(3) Starting at one end of the axle housing, install a .040 inch shim pack on the flange studs.

(4) Working from the same side of the axle housing, lubricate the axle shaft bearing with a wheel bearing lubricant, and Install the axle shaft.

(5) Install the bearing cup with the installing

Axle Shaft End Play

Axle shaft preferred end play is .013 to .018 Inch, however, up to .023" is permissible. The end play is necessary because as much as .012 inch end play Fig. 7—Installing Axle Drive Shaft Bearing Cup

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-5

Tool C-413 (Fig. 7). Make certain the bearing cup Is driven into the axle housing until the face of the

Installing tool bottoms against the shims, not the housing lange. Eemove the tool and Install the brake support, lockwashers and nuts. Torque tighten the nuts 30 to 35 foot-pounds.

(6) Working from the opposite side of the axle housing, lubricate the bearing and install the other axle shaft until i t contacts the axle shaft thrust block.

(7) With a fiber mallet, lightly tap the end of the axle shaft against the thrust block. (This will force the opposite axle shaft bearing into its cup to the fullest extent).

(8) Install the bearing cup with Tool C-413. The bearing cup must be tapped into position until the axle shaft end play just disappears. The bearing cup will protrude slightly beyond the face of the axle housing flange.

(9) While the tool is held firmly against the bearing cup, insert a feeler gauge between the axle housing flange and the face of the tool to measure the clearance.

(10) To obtain .013 to .018 inch axle shaft end play, which is required, add a minimum of .013 inch to whatever the feeler gauge reading is. I t is recommended that end play be held to the .018" limit rather than the low limit. Compare the thickness of this shim pack with the thickness of the opposite pack. I f the difference in the thickness of shim packs exceed .020 inch, divide the difference to center the axle shafts and the thrust block. Equal thickness of shims on both axles shafts is necessary to maintain the centralized position of axle shaft thrust block.

(11) Position the shim packs on the flange studs and drive the cups in until the tool bottoms on the shim pack.

(12) Install a new outer oil seal in the brake support plate with Tool C-3565 with the lip of the seal toward the center of the car.

(13) Insert the sleeve Tool C-745 in the outer seal to protect the seal when the brake support is installed.

(14) Install the dust shield, and brake support.

Tighten the attaching nuts 30 to 35 foot-pounds.

Install the wheels, hub and drum. The axle shaft key should be flush with the outer end of the hub.

Fig. 8—Measuring Drive Gear Runout

(2) Disconnect the rear universal joint and drop the propeller shaft.

(3) Remove the lubricant from the axle housing using a suction gun.

(4) Remove the attaching nuts and lift the rear axle carrier assembly from under the car.

CARRIER DISASSEMBLY

Differential Assembly Removal

(1) Mount the carrier in Stand DD-1014 and attach the dial indicator Tool C-430 or C-3339 to the differential carrier flange so the pointer of the indicator squarely contacts the back face of the ring gear (Fig. 8). Make certain there is no end play in the differential side bearings. I f end play is evident, remove the adjuster lock and slightly loosen the bearing cap on the gear tooth side. Tighten the adjuster sufficiently to eliminate the end play.

DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER REMOVAL

(1) Remove the axle drive shafts, Paragraph

"Axle Drive Shafts." Fig.

9 —Marking Bearing Caps and Adjusting Nuts

MyMopar.com

3-6 REAR AXLE

(2) Eotate the ring gear several complete revolutions while noting the total indicator reading. This reading must not exceed .005 inch runout. I f the indicator reading exceeds the .005 inch runout, it will be necessary to take a second reading after the ring gear has been removed. This operation Is covered during "Differential Disassembly". Eemove the dial Indicator.

(3) Apply identifying punch marks on the bearing supports of the differential carrier, differential bearing caps, and bearing adjusters for reassembly purposes (Fig. 9).

(4) Eemove each of the differential bearing adjuster lock screws and locks.

(5) With a % inch socket wrench, loosen the bearing cap bolts (one on each side) and back off the bearing adjusters slightly with spanner wrench Tool

C-406, to remove the differential case bearing preload. Eemove the bearing cap bolts, caps and bearing adjusters.

(6) Eemove the differential assembly with bearing cups. Make certain that each bearing cup remains with its respective bearing.

Pinion Removal

(7) With the companion flange up, hold the flange with holding Tool C-3281 and remove the pinion shaft nut and belleville washer.

(8) Install the companion flange puller Tool C-

452 and remove the flange (Fig. 10).

(9) Install the oil seal puller Tool C-748 by screwing It securely into the pinion oil seal (Fig, 11) and tighten the puller screw to remove the seal.

(10) While holding one hand over the companion flange end of the carrier, invert the carrier in the stand. The oil slinger, front bearing cone shim pack and bearing spacer (where used) will drop from the carrier.

(11) Withdraw the pinion and rear bearing cone from the carrier.

(1) The 1962 Chrysler Newport SC-l rear axle carriers use different adaptors to remove the pinion rear bearing than the carriers on all other 1962

Chrysler and Imperial Models.

When removing the pinion rear bearing (Fig. 12) on a 1962 Chrysler Newport carrier use Tool C-

293 and four (4) No. 36 adaptors. On all other 1962

Chrysler and Imperial Models, use Tool C-293 and four (4) No. 37 adaptors.

(2) The pinion bearing cups can be removed from the carrier with a blunt brass drift and hammer.

Fig. 11—Removing Pinion Bearing

Pinion Rear Bearing Removal

Differential Case Disassembly

Oil Seal

(1) Hold the ring gear in an upright position using brass jaws in a vise. With a % inch socket wrench, remove the ring gear to differential attaching cap screws. The ring gear, attaching screws have left hand threads.

(2) Remove the assembly from the vise, and with a fiber mallet, tap the ring gear off the case.

PLATES

Fig. 10 —Removing Companion Flange Fig. 12—Removing Bearing From Pinion Shaft

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-7

Fig. 13

—

Measuring Drive Gear Mounting Flange

Runout

(3) I f the ring gear runout was found to be more than .005 inch (Paragraph "Carrier Disassembly"

(2)) test the case as follows: Install the differential with bearing" cups in the carrier.

(4) Install the bearing caps, attaching bolts and bearing adjusters. Snug the bearing cap bolts down lightly and screw in both adjusters with spanner wrench Tool C-406A.

(5) Tighten the support cap bolts and adjusters sufficiently to prevent any end play in the bearings.

(6) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-430 or C-3339 to the differential carrier flange so the pointer of the indicator squarely contacts the ring gear surface of the differential case flange between the outer edge of the flange and the ring gear bolt holes (Fig. 13).

(7) Rotate the differential several complete revolutions while noting the total indicator reading.

Fig. 15—Removing Differential Bearings

This reading must not exceed .003 Inch runout. I f the runout Is In excess of .003 Inch, the differential case must be replaced.

(8) Measure the side gear clearances between the gear and case (Fig. 14). Clearances should be from .001 to .012 inch. I f the clearance exceeds .012 inch, install new thrust washers.

(9) From the back side of the ring gear flange, drive the differential pinion shaft lock pin out of the case with a flat nose drift and hammer. The lock pin is a 14 inch hollow split type. (The hole is reamed only part way through, making i t necessary to remove the lock pin from one direction).

(10) Drive the pinion shaft out with a brass drift and hammer and remove the axle drive shaft thrust block.

(11) Rotate one differential side gear until each pinion appears at the large opening of the case. Remove each pinion and thrust washer at that time.

(12) Remove the two differential side gears and thrust washers.

Fig. 14

—

Measuring Differential Gear Clearance

GLEANING AND INSPECTION

(1) Clean all parts in fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of the bearings, dry with compressed air.

MyMopar.com

3-8 REAR AXLE

(2) Inspect the differential bearing cones and cups for brinnelling or other visible damage. I f replacement is necessary, remove the bearings from the differential case with Puller Tool C-293 and four adaptor plates No. 18 (Fig. 15).

(3) Inspect the differential. case (if the differential case flange runout exceeds .003 inch, replace the case). Inspect for elongated or enlarged pinion shaft holes, the side gear counterbores and the four thrust washer contacting surfaces for galling, metal deposits or raised portions of metal. I f any of the above conditions exist, satisfactory correction must be made or the case replaced. Inspect the case for cracks or other visible damage which might render it unfit for further service.

(4) Inspect the differential pinion shaft for excessive wear. Replace as necessary.

(5) Inspect the differential pinion gears for excessive wear, cracks, chipped teeth or other visible damage. Replace pinion gears or thrust washers as necessary.

(6) Inspect the differential side gears for cracks, chipped teeth or other visible damage. Replace differential side gears or thrust washers as necessary.

(7) Inspect the axle shaft thrust block for excessive wear or visible damage. The thrust block is usually damaged by using a "knock off" type axle drive shaft remover. The wear surface, on opposite sides of the block, must be smooth. I f inspection reveals that replacement of the thrust block is necessary, axle shaft end play must be reset.

(8) Inspect the differential pinion shaft lock pin for damage or looseness in the case. Replace the pin or case as necessary.

(9) Inspect the ring gear for worn or chipped teeth or damaged attaching bolt threads. I f replacement of the ring gear is necessary, replace both the ring gear and drive pinion as they are furnished in matched sets only.

(10) Inspect the drive pinion bearing cones and the cups (which may have been left in the carrier) for brinnelling, excessive wear, or other visible damage. I f inspection reveals that either are unfit for further service, replace the cup and cone.

(11) Inspect the differential carrier for cracks or other visible damage which would render i t unfit for further service. Raised metal on the shoulders incurred in removing pinion cups should be flattened by use of a flat nose punch.

(12) Inspect the drive pinion for damaged or excessively worn teeth, damaged bearings, journals or splines. I f replacement of the pinion is necessary, a new ring gear must also be used as they are furnished in matched sets only. Also inspect the pinion bearing spacer for distortion and damage.

(13) Inspect the companion flange for cracks, worn splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting surface. Repair or replace companion flange as necessary.

(14) Inspect the pinion bearing shim pack for damaged or distorted shims. Replace the shims with correct one during establishment of pinion bearing preload.

DIFFERENTIAL CASE ASSEMBLY

(1) Install a thrust washer on each of the differential side gears and position the gears in the case.

(2) Through the large side opening of the case, insert each of the two pinion and thrust washers exactly 180 degrees opposite each other, so the pinion shaft holes of the two gears and thrust washers are properly aligned.

(3) Rotate the gears 90 degrees so the pinion shaft holes of the case are in exact alignment with the holes in the two thrust washers and pinions.

(4) From the pinion shaft lock pin hole side of the case, insert the slotted portion of the pinion shaft through the case, the conical thrust washer and just through one pinion gear.

(5) Install the thrust block between the two pinion gears. The thrust block must be installed so the hole in the block is aligned with the pinion shaft and with the ground sides facing the two side gears.

(6) While keeping all of these parts in proper alignment push the pinion shaft on through until the locking pin hole in the pinion shaft is in exact alignment with its respective hole in the case. Install the pinion shaft lock pin through hole in the case from the pinion shaft side of the ring gear flange.

(7) Make certain the contacting surfaces of the ring gear and the case flange are clean and free from any burrs and position the ring gear on the case, aligning the threaded holes of the ring gear with those in the case flange.

(8) Insert the ring gear cap screws through the case flange and into the ring gear. After all cap screws are properly started, tap the gear onto the flange.

(9) Position the unit between brass jaws of the vise and alternately torque tighten each cap screw to 60 foot-pounds.

(10) Position each differential bearing cone on

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-9

G A U G E B L O C K W R E N C H

S P - 5 2 8 . ^ ^ - ^ - ^

V I S C R E W

C R O S S B O R E

T U B E S P - 5 6 1 "

2 9 2 0

S L E E V E

5P-1370

\ i

;

% » S P A C E R S P - 1 3 7 1

C O M P R E S S I O N

S L E E V E

SP

-535

S L E E V E

S P - - 6 8 2

A

C E N T R A L I Z I N G

S P A C E R S P - 2 9 2 1 W A S H E R S P - 5 3 4

C O M P R E S S I O N

N U T SP

-533 s~ ^lg

A

C|R -* S P A C E R

« m

» | S

5

- 1 7 3 0 « « » S P - 5 3 9

V>> P I N I O N L O C A T I N G S P A C E R S P - 2 9 1 9 57x438

Fig- 16—Tool Set C-758

57xl3A

Fig. IS — Seating Bearing Cups In Carrier with

Tool C-758 the hub of the case (taper away from the ring gear) and with installing Tool DD

-1005,

install the bearing cones. An arbor press may be used in conjunction with the installing tool. of determining pinion depth of mesh and bearing preload are the same for both pinions, however, the sequence of making the two adjustments changes.

Pinions used on Chrysler SC-2, SC-3 and Imperial

SY-1 require the depth of mesh adjustment first, while pinions used on Chrysler Newport SC-l Models requires bearing pre-load adjustment first.

PINION BEARING CUP INSTALLATION

(1) Place the bearing cups squarely in position.

Assemble Tool C-758 (Fig. 16) by placing spacer

SP-2919 ion Chrysler Newport SC-l) followed by the rear pinion bearing cone over the main screw of the tool and inserting i t into the carrier from the gear side (Fig. 17).

(2) Place the front pinion bearing over the main screw followed by compression sleeve SP

-535,

centralizing washer SP-534, and main screw nut SP-

533. Hold the compression sleeve with companion flange holding Tool €-3281 and tighten the nut (Fig.

18j. allowing the tool to rotate as the nut is being tightened in order not to damage the bearings or cups. Do not remove tool after installing the cups.

Two types of drive pinions are used. The method

COMPRESSION SLEEVE

(TOOL)

CENTRALIZING

WASHER

( T O O L )

57x12

Fig.

17 — Compression Sleeve and Centralizing Washer to Position with Tool C -758

PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD—DEPTH OF M E S H -

INSTALLATION USING TOOL C-758, MODEL SC-l

Bearing Pre-Load

(1) With the tool installed in the carrier, (Paragraph "Differential Case Assembly" (1) ) , remove the main screw nut, centralizing washer, compression sleeve and the front pinion bearing.

(2) Install the pinion bearing spacer, the larger bore of spacer next to the rear bearing.

(3) Position the sleeve (SP-1730) in the front bearing, making sure the sleeve is flush with the rear of the bearing.

(4) Position the original shims, previously removed from the drive pinion shaft, over the sleeve and slide the sleeve, bearing and shims over the tool main screw until the shims rest against the spacer

(Fig. 19).

(5) Install the tool compression sleeve (SP

-535)

(square end out), centralizing washer (SP

-534)

and main screw nut SP

-533).

Turn the carrier in the stand to bring the nut on top (Fig. 20).

(6) Tighten the tool nut to

240

foot-pounds with a torque wrench, using holding Tool C

-3281

on the compression sleeve to hold the assembly in several positions to make a complete revolution while tightening. Remove the holding tool and rotate the assembly several turns in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Recheck the torque to

240

footpounds (torque may have diminished as the bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

MyMopar.com

3-10 REAR AXLE

/ I PINION LOCATING WASHER OR SHIM

Q D

" ^

1

' (N^ ASSEMBLY OF SP

-526

CARRIER

ASSEMBLY

(Pinion Newport SC-l)

"PINION LOCATING WASHER

NO WASHER OR SPACER

57x152

., „ i - - K .

\il L-

FIRST SET UP: TIGHTEN GAUGE TO * PINION BEARING PRELOAD

40-50 FOOT POUNDS AND DETERMINE SPACER

PINION LOCATING WASHE& ONLY CARRIER

ASSEMBLY

PRE-DETERMINED PINION LOCATING,

WASHER

SP-2921

>JK.

SECOND SET UP:

USE PRE-DETERMINED

PINION WASHER AND

PINION SPACER TO

DETERMINE PINION

BEARING PRELOAD SPACER

57x151

Fig. 19 — (Pinion Except Newport) Tool C-758 Installed in Housing

(7) Correct bearing pre-load readings

can only be obtained with nose

of

the carrier

up.

Use an inch pound torque wrench Tool C-685. W i t h the handle of the wrench floating, read the torque when the wrench is moving through at least one full rotation.

Correct reading is 20 to 30 inch pounds for a new bearing, and zero to 15 inch pounds for bearing in use and should be uniform during the full rotations.

If the bearing pre-load is more than 30 inch pounds, a thicker shim should be used under the front bearing. If the bearing pre-load is less than 20 inch pounds, a thinner shim should be used. Shims are available in thicknesses of .010, .012, .014, .016 and

.018 inch. A f t e r proper pinion bearing pre-load is established, do not remove the tool.

Depth of Mesh

The position of the drive pinion with respect to the

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE

3-11

ARBOR

(TOOL)

57x17

Fig. 22—Installing Arbor

Fig. 20—Measuring Pre-Load Torque (inch-pounds) ring gear (depth of mesh) is determined by the location of the bearing cup shoulders in the carrier and by the portion of the pinion in back of the rear bearing. The thickness of a pinion spacer washer suitable for the carrier can be determined by using

Tool C-758.

(1) Invert the carrier in the stand and install gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 on the end of the tool (Fig. 21), attaching i t to the tool with the Allen screw. The flat portion of the spacer should be facing the differential bearing pedestals and the offset of the spacer (or the large portion) toward the center of the carrier. Tighten screw with alien wrench.

(2) Position arbor SP-561 (part of Tool C-758) in the differential bearing pedestals of the carrier

(Fig. 22). Center the arbor so that an approximate equal distance is maintained at both ends. Position differential bearing caps and attaching bolts on the carrier pedestals. Insert a piece of .002 inch feeler stock between the arbor and each cap, and tighten the cap bolts securely.

(3) Select the "gauge washer" that will fit between the tool gauge block and arbor (Fig. 23). This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge). This washer is then used only for determining the correct thickness washer to be used for installation.

(4) To select the proper washer for installation, read the marking on the end of the pinion (-0, -1, -2,

+ 1 , + 2 , etc.). When the marking is — (minus), add that amount to the thickness of the "gauge washer" selected in step (3). When the marking is + (plus), subtract that amount. Example: With a "gauge washer" .086 inch thick and a pinion marked -2, install spacer washer .088 inch thick (.086-j-.002=

.088). Example: With a "gauge washer" .086 inch thick and a pinion marked + 2 , install a spacer washer .084 inch thick, (.086-.002=.084) or when

GAuGE SLOCK

(TOOL)

57x16

Fig. 21—Installing Gauge Block

149x615

Fig. 23—Determining Spacer Washer Thickness

MyMopar.com

342 REAR AXLE

a "gauge w a s h e r " .086 inch thick is too loose and the

.088 inch is too tight, use .086 spacer washer and the pinion marking.

(5)

Remove the tool arbor from the carrier.

(6)

Remove the tool and bearings out of the carrier.

(7) Remove the shims, spacer, tool sleeve, and rear bearing cone from the tool main screw.

3/32 INCH

Bearing Installations

(8) W i t h the shaft end of pinion facing up, install the selected correct pinion spacer washer on the pinion gear shaft. These washers have a chamfer on one side.

The chamfer must face the pinion head.

(9) Position the rear bearing cone on the pinion shaft (small end away from the pinion g e a r ) . Make certain that the contacting surfaces of the correct washer, pinion gear, and rear bearing cone are perfectly clean and free of any foreign particles.

(10) Install the rear bearing cone onto the pinion shaft with Tool DD-996. A n arbor press may be used in conjunction with the tool

(Fig.

24).

(11) Install the bearing tubular spacer on the pinion shaft (large bore facing the rear bearing).

(12) Install the selected shim pack.

(13) Lubricate the front and rear pinion shaft bearing cones with heavy oil.

(14) Install the front bearing in its cup in the carrier.

(15) Install the oil seal to the carrier with driver

Tool C-3656 lip of seal must face the front bearing.

The seal must be driven into the carrier until the

Tool bottoms against the front pinion bearing cone.

(Fig.

25.)

DRIVE PINION

52x382

Fig.

24

—

Installing Bearing on Pinion Shaft

Fig. 25—Pinion Oil Seal Installation

(16) Insert the pinion shaft up through the carrier. While supporting the pinion in the carrier, install the companion flange with installing Tool C -

496 or DD-999.

(17) Remove the tool and install the plain washer

(convex side of washer up) and nut.

(18) Hold the companion flange with holding

Tool C-3281. Torque the companion flange nut to

240 foot-pounds. Rotate the assembly several turns in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Recheck the torque to 240 foot-pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

PINION BEARING PRE

-LOAD

AND PINION SETTING

MODELS SC-2, SC-3, SY-1 U S I N G T O O L C-758-D-3

Inspect the bearing cups and carrier for grit and dirt. Assemble spacer SP-1371 to the main section of the tool followed by spacer SP-1370. Install the pinion rear bearing over spacer SP-1370 and against spacer SP-1371. Insert the assembly into the carrier housing and install the front bearing over the tool shaft and in its proper position in the bearing cup. Install the tool spacer; tool thrust washer and tool nut on the shaft. Tighten the tool setting nut to not more than 25 to 50 foot-pounds torque.

T u r n the tool several revolutions to permit the bearing rollers to seat. A f t e r the bearing rollers have been properly seated, check the bearing preload by rotating the tool with an inch pound torque wrench. W i t h the bearings lubricated with hypoid gear oil the correct preload should be from 25 to

50 inch-pounds torque.

Assemble gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 to the

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 343

main screw attaching it with the alien screw securely. Position tool arbor SP

-561

in the differential carrier bearing supports. Insert a piece of

.002

inch feeler stock between the arbor and each cap. I n stall the caps and tighten the bolts to

10

foot-pounds torque.

Select a gauge washer that will j u s t pass between the gauge block end of the tool and the machined surface of the bearing armor. A s an example, if a

.090 inch spacer can be inserted but a .092 inch spacer cannot be forced between the two surfaces by hand, the .090 inch spacer should be used even though it might feel loose.

Note the end of the drive pinion as it will indicate the amount that should be added or subtracted from the spacer that was selected. A s an example, if the pinion shaft indicated plus two a .002 inch thinner spacer should be used for final assembly. A s an example, if a spacer selected by the use of a second tool is .090 inch it is necessary to deduct .002 inch, therefore, the correct spacer for final assembly would be .088 inch.

To correctly read the markings on the end of the drive pinion, always remember that the plus ( + ) symbol indicates a deduction of the required spacer thickness whereas the minus ( — ) symbol indicates the necessity for a thicker spacer.

When the correct spacer is selected for the drive pinion, disassemble the setting tool from the differential carrier housing and add the pinion positioning spacer j u s t selected to the tool, between spacer SP-1371 and the pinion rear bearing. Install spacer SP-1370 and the pinion bearing adjusting spacer from the previous bearings. Insert the tool assembly in the carrier housing. Place the forward roller bearing over the shaft and in position in the carrier bearing cup. Install the tool spacer, tool nut washer and tool nut on shaft. Hold the compression sleeve nut with holding tool C-784 or C-3281 and torque tighten the nut to 240 foot-pounds. T u r n the setting tool several revolutions to permit the bearing rollers to seat. A f t e r the bearing rollers have been properly seated check the bearing preload by rotating the tool with an inch-pound torque wrench.

With the bearing lubricated with Hypoid Gear Oil the correct preload specifications are from 45 to 50 inch-pounds torque.

If the bearing adjustment does not conform to specifications it will be necessary to change the adjustment by either a thicker or thinner pinion bearing spacer. If the preload is too great it will be necessary to install a thicker spacer and if the pre-load is not sufficient a thinner spacer will be necessary.

W h e n the correct spacer is selected for the drive pinion bearing, disassemble the tool from the differential carrier housing and install the bearings, pinion positioning spacer and bearing spacer to the pinion and install in the housing. Recheck the turning torque, and correct as necessary, before installing the seal, if not within specifications.

Assembly of Pinion Carrier

W i t h the shaft end of pinion facing up, install the selected washer on the pinion stem, with the chamfered side of the washer facing the drive pinion gear.

Position the rear bearing on the pinion shaft. Make sure the contacting surfaces of the washer, pinion gear and rear bearing are perfectly clean and free from dirt or foreign particles. Install the rear bearing cone onto the pinion shaft with Tool DD-955.

Install the selected shim pack. Lubricate the front and rear bearing. Insert the pinion and bearing assembly in the carrier. Apply a light coat of sealer in the carrier bore at the seal area. Install a new seal with Tool C-3656 until driver bottoms on the pinion front bearing. Install and support pinion gear assembly in the carrier, and install the universal joint flange with installing Tool C-496 or DD-999. Install the plain washer (concave side of washer down) and nut. Torque tighten the flange nut 240 footpounds and remove the flange holding tool.

PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD AND PINION SETTING

(Without Using Special Tool C-758)

N O T E :

I f

the differential assembly was satisfactorily quiet before being disassembled, the drive pinion may be assembled with the original adjusting washers and shims.

I f

replacement parts are installed, or differential adjustment is necessary, the proper thickness washer must be installed between the pinion and rear bearing. T h e drive gear and pinion are manufactured and lapped in matching sets. The adjustment position in which the best tooth contact is obtained is etched on end of pinion shaft.

To obtain the proper pinion setting in relation to the drive gear, the correct thickness thrust washer must be selected before the drive pinion is installed in the carrier. Pinion bearing adjusting washers are available from .084 inch to .100 inch in .002 inch steps. To select the proper thickness thrust washer, proceed as follows: It will be noted that the face of the drive pinion is etched with plus (+-) or minus

(-) sign, followed by a number ranging from 1 to

4, or zero (0) marking.

MyMopar.com

344 REAR AXLE

Depth of Mesh:

I f the old and new pinion have the same marking and i f the original bearing is being reused, use a thrust washer of the same thickness. But i f old pinion is marked zero (0) and the new pinion is marked

+ 2, t r y a .002 inch thinner washer. I f new pinion is marked —2, t r y a .002 inch thicker washer.

Pinion Bearing Pre-Load:

I f the bearing cups are to be replaced, place the bearing cups in position in the carrier and drive the cups in place with a suitable drift. After properly positioning of the bearing cups in carrier, assemble the drive pinion thrust washer (chamfered side down toward gear) on the drive pinion stem. Install the rear bearing, spacer ( i f so equipped) and shims on the pinion stem. Insert the pinion shaft into the carrier. Install the front pinion bearing, universal joint flange, washer and nut.

Do not install the oil seal.

Tighten the drive pinion flange nut to 240 footpounds torque. Rotate the drive pinion shaft after tightening the flange nut, to properly seat the bearing rollers in the bearing cups. The pre-load torque required to rotate the pinion shaft with the bearings oiled should be 20 to 30 inch-pounds torque for new bearings and 0 to 15 inch-pounds for bearings in use. Add shims to decrease torque or remove shims to increase torque. After the correct pinion setting and bearing pre-load has been obtained, remove the drive pinion flange. Install the oil seal. Install the pinion flange, washer and nut. Tighten the pinion nut to proper torque.

57x20

Fig. 26 — Adjusting Differential Bearings nated, with some backlash existing between the drive gear and pinion.

(5) While facing each bearing support cap, tighten the left hand bolt 85 to 90 foot-pounds torque on each side.

DRIVE GEAR AND PINION BAC1LASH

Drive and pinion backlash should be .006 to .008 inch at point of minimum backlash.

(1) Attach dial indicator Tool C-340 or C-3339 to carrier flange so pointer or indicator is squarely contacting one of the ring gear teeth (drive side)

(Fig 27).

(2) Measure the backlash between the ring gear DIFFERENTIAL CASE ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

Installation in Carrier

(1) Install the differential bearing cup on its respective bearing, and position the assembly in the carrier.

(2) Install the differential bearing caps, making certain that the identification marks on the cap correspond with those on the carrier. Install the attaching bolts and tighten the bolts of each cap by hand.

(3) Note the identification marks on the differential bearing adjusters and reinstall each in its respective side.

(4) Screw the adjuster in by hand. No attempt should be made at this time to apply an excessive pressure. To square the bearing cups with the bearing, turn the adjusters " i n " with spanner wrench

Tool C-406A (Fig. 26) until cups are properly squared with the bearings and end play is elimi-

Fig. 27 — Measuring Backlash Between Drive Gear and

Pinion

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 345 and pinion. After the first reading is taken, move the dial indicator away from the tooth sufficiently to rotate the ring gear aproximately 90 degrees and again check the backlash. The backlash should be checked In four different positions to determine the least clearance between the ring and gear and pinion. After the point of least clearance has been established, mark the ring gear. Do not rotate ring gear from the point of least clearance until all adjustments have been completed.

(3) Turn both bearing adjusters equally until backlash between drive gear and the pinion is .0005 to .0015 inch. This backlash variation is given to permit alignment and installation of the bearing adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching bolt. The adjuster must only be turned in a clockwise direction and under no circumstances should be backed off.

(4) Install the adjuster lock on the back-face side of the ring gear. of ring gear) (Fig. 26) in a notch at a time (notch referred to is the adjuster lock holes) until the backlash between the ring gear and pinion is a minimum of .006 inch to .008 inch. This will pre-load the bearings and establish the correct backlash.

(2) Tighten the remaining two bearing support cap bolts 85 to 90 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the remaining adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching bolts. Tighten the lock retaining cap screws 15 to 20 foot-pounds torque.

GEAR* TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN

The gear tooth contact pattern (Fig. 28) will disclose whether the correct washer has been installed behind the pinion rear bearing and the ring gear has been positioned properly. Refer to Figure 28 for various gear tooth contact patterns.

Side Bearing Pre-Load

(1) Turn the other bearing adjuster (tooth side

CORRECT

ADJUSTMENT

DRIVE COAST

Obtaining Tooth Contact Pattern

Apply red lead to the ring gear teeth and apply a load against the back of the ring gear with a round bar. As this pressure is being applied to the ring gear, rotate the pinion. This action will leave a distinct contact pattern on the gear teeth. The series of illustrations shows the correct pattern as well as a series of incorrect patterns.

PINION SPACER

TOO THICK

PINION SPACER

TOO THIN

Hael. High

GEAR TOO CLOSE

^1

TO PINION

Toe

Canter Toe

Toe, High

Slightly Lower

Correct Adjustment—Proper Tooth Contact

With the adjustments properly made, correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 28, will result. Notice that contact pattern is well centered on the drive and coast sides. When tooth contact patterns are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. Under an actual operating load, however, the contact area increases.

If improper tooth contact is evident, as shown in

Figure 28, the pinion should be adjusted either forward or backward, maintaining the backlash within specified limits until the correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 28, is obtained.

GEAR

TOO

FAR

FROM PINION ^

Heel Slightly Higher

1.

CONE SHIM CHANGES AFFECT THE COAST

S I D E

CONTACT

FASTER THAN THE DRIVE SIDE.

2.

BACKLASH ADJUSTMENTS AFFECT THE ORIVE SIDE CON-

TACT MUCH FASTER THAN THE COAST SIDE.

3.

ALL BACKLASH MEASUREMENTS SHOULD BE MADE AT THE

POINT OF MINIMUM BACKLASH.

59S164

Fig. 28—Gear Tooth Contact

Heavy Face Contact

If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth face, narrow and near the top, the teeth will wear thin and roll over or score, resulting in excessive gear lash and noise. The condition is corrected by installing a thicker washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

Heavy Flank Contact

I f the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth,

MyMopar.com

346 REAR AXLE narrow and low on the flank, the pinion teeth will score and also result in noise. The condition is corrected by installing a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

Heavy To© Contact

If the tooth pattern is heavy on the toe of the tooth, the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive damage of the entire assembly. The condition is corrected by moving the ring gear away from the pinion. This will increase the backlash making i t again necessary to insert a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

Heavy Heel Contact

I f the tooth pattern is heavy on the heel of the teeth, the edges of the teeth may clip resulting in excessive damage to the entire assembly. The condition is corrected by moving the rear gear toward the pinion. This would result in decreasing the backlash making i t again necessary to insert a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

WELDING REAR AXLE HOUSING

The axle housing should be completely disassembled

If it is to be welded with arc welding equipment. I t is also possible to weld the assembled housing with gas welding equipment, i f precaution is taken to protect gaskets and heat-treated parts.

CARRIER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

(1) Use a new gasket and install the carrier assembly to the axle housing. Tighten the mounting nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Press the bearing on the axle shaft. Lubricate the bearing rollers with grease, align axle splines, and insert the axle shaft in the housing. Install the axle drive shaft outer bearing cup with Tool C-413.

(3) Install shims in same manner in which they were removed to maintain central position of the axle shaft thrust block. Install a new seal in the brake support plate with Tool C

-3565

with the lip of the seal facing toward the center of the vehicle.

(4) Install the brake support plate and tighten the nuts to 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Measure the axle shaft end plate as outlined in Paragraph "Axle Shaft End Play."

(6) Install the hub and drum assembly.

(7) Tighten the axle shaft nuts 145 foot-pounds minimum, and Install new cotterpins.

(8) Connect the rear universal joint.

(9) Remove the block from brake pedal and bleed the brake lines.

(10) Refill the axle housing and carrier assembly with specified lubricant. Refer to the Lubrication Group 0 for axles equipped with Sure-Grip differentials.

(11) Install the wheels and tires and tighten in sequence outlined in "Wheels and Tires Group 22."

SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

The sure-grip differential (Figs. 29, 30, 31, and 32) is similar to the conventional differential except for the addition of flat friction plates, discs and dished plates for loading the differential case to the differential gears and a means for engaging these plates.

I t has four pinion gears, positioned in the case by two pinion shafts which are at right angles to each other and loose fitting at their inter-section. Roth ends of each shaft have two flat surfaces, or ramps, which mate with identical ramps in the differential case. There is additional clearance in the case to permit a slight peripheral movement of the ends of the pinion shafts within the case.

SURE-GRIP DIFrraHOTIAL IDHHTIFICATION

Identification of Sure-Grip type differential assembly can be made by the letter

" S "

stamped on the identification pad on the right side of carrier housing, or by a metal tag reading, "Use Sure-Grip

Lube" attached by means of the rear axle housing-

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-17

Fig.

29

—

Sure-Grip Differential (Schematic) to-carrier bolt, below the carrier filler plug. I f the letter "S" or tag is not apparent, remove filler plug and use a flashlight to look up through the filler plug hole to identify the type differential case. The Sure-

Grip type differential case (two-piece construction) has attaching bolts. The conventional type differential case (one-piece construction) has a dome-like shape with no case cap attaching bolts.

Fig.

31—Power -Flow—Axle Shafts Turning at Same

Speeds

Fig. 30 — Sure-Grip Differential (Cross-Section)

MyMopar.com

3-18 REAR AXLE

LUBRICATION in axles equipped with the Sure-Grip differential.

Use special differential lubricant Number 1879414 The lubricant should be changed every 32,000 miles.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

WARNING

Before raising a rear wheel off the ground, shut off the engine, set the parking brake tightly, carefully block the front wheel, diagonally opposite the one to be removed, against both forward and rearward movement.

Fig. 32—Power-Flow—Axle Shafts Turning at Different

Speeds Fig. 34—Removing the Differential Case Cap

Fig. 33—Case Halved Scribed lor Reassembly Fig. 35—Removing the Clutch Plates (Cap Side)

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 349

Fig. 36

—

Removing the Side Gear Retainer (Cap Side)

T H R U S T S P A C E R

Fig. 38

—

Removing the Pinion Shafts and Gears

Follow the same procedure outlined under removal and installation of the conventional rear axle differential

Disassembly

(1) Remove the axle drive gear. Measure the runout of drive gear mounting flange. Replace both case halves i f the runout exceeds .003 inch.

NOTE: Before disassembling the case halves, place scribe marks on each half to aid in aligning the case when reassembling (Fig. 33).

(2) Remove the case cap attaching bolts and remove the'case cap (Fig. 34). Remove clutch plates

(Fis .35).

(8) Remove the side gear retainer (Fig. 38), and side gear (Fig. 37).

(4) Remove the pinion shafts with pinion gears

(Fig. 38).

(5) Remove the remaining side gear (Fig. 39), side gear retainer (Fig. 40) and clutch plates (Fig.

41).

(6) Remove the axle shaft thrust spacer by pressing out the lock pin.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Clean all parts thoroughly. Inspect all parts for wear, nicks and burrs. Replace worn or distorted clutch plates. I f the case is worn, i t will be necessary to replace both halves.

Assembly

(1) Position the clutch plates and discs in their

Fig. 37—Removing the Side Gear (Cap Side) Fig. 39—Removing the Side Gear from Differential Case

MyMopar.com

3-20 REAR AXLE

Fig. 40 — Removing the Side Gear Retainer proper position in each half of the ease, as shown in Figure 42,

(2) Place the side gears in their retainers. Insert splines of the retainers through the splines of the clutch discs.

(3) Place the aligning pin through one axle shaft thrust spacer. Assemble the pinion shafts on the aligning pin.

(4) Place the pinion gears on the shafts and install the assembly on the drive gear half of the case.

Insert the thrust spacer In the pinion shaft (Fig.

43).

(5) Slide the cap half of the case over the edge of the bench far enough to Insert one finger up through the assembly to hold It together. Place the assembly on drive gear half, matching the scribe marks.

(6) Make sure the markings on each differential

Fig. 42

—

Arrangement oitQutch Plates; Discs and

Washers

FEELER G A U G E S

58x727

Fig. 43 —Installing Axle Shaft Thrust Spacers

Fig.

41—-Removing the Clutch Plates

Fig. 44 —Measuring Clearance Between Pinion Shafts and

Case

MyMopar.com

REAR AXLE 3-21 case half coincide. Install the differential case bolts and turn them in a few threads.

(7) Install the axle shafts from the vehicle to align the splines. Make sure the axle shafts engage the side gear splines as well as the clutch ring splines.

(8) With the shafts installed, center the cross shafts between the two ramp surfaces in the differential case. Tighten the differential case bolts evenly by alternately turning opposite bolts until all are torque tightened to 45 foot-pounds. After assembly, slight misalignments of the splines can be corrected by moving the axle shafts back and forth until free.

Remove the axle- shafts.

• (9) With the differential resting on one hub, insert-two feeler blades, one over each end of the pinion' shaft having ramps above i t (Fig. 44). The clearance should not exceed .010 inch at each end of shaft.

(10) Invert the differential to rest on the opposite hub. Measure the opposite pinion shaft in the like manner to the same specifications (Fig. 45).

Measurements over .010 inch indicate that the clutch discs are worn and should be replaced. New discs and plates may produce a clearance of as little as .002

inch. With either new or used discs, the measurement of the two shafts should be within .005 of each other.

Use Tool C-3565 driver when installing the rear axle shaft outer oil seal and Tool C-745 seal protector when installing the brake shield over the rear axle shaft.

FEELER G A U G E S

Fig.

45 —Measuring Clearance of Pinion Shaft and Cap

C o n d i t i o n s

R e a r W h e e l Noise

Rear Axle Noise

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible C a u s e Corrections

(a) Wheel loose on axle shaft. (a) Tighten wheel in sequence outlined in

"Wheels and Tires".

(b)

Replace drum or axle shaft as necessary. (b) Worn drum or worn axle shaft keyways.

(c) Wheel hub bolts loose.

(d) Brinnelled or scored wheel bearings.

(e) Insufficient lubrication. fc) Tighten bolts to correct torque.

(d)

(e)

Replace wheel bearings.

Add

lubricant as required.

(f) Improper axle shaft end play. (f) Adjust end play to .013-.018 inch.

(g) Bent axle shaft or wheel and hub. (g) Replace wheel, hub or drum as necessary.

(a)

Lubricant level low.

(b) E n d play in drive pinion bearing.

(a) Add lubricant as required.

(b)

Measure and adjust end play.

(c) Excessive gear lash between ring (c) Measure and adjust gear lash. gear and pinion.

(d) Loose drive pinion companion flange nut.

(e) Damaged gears.

(d) Tighten flange nut to 240 (min.) footpounds.

(e) Replace gears as required.

MyMopar.com

3-22 REAR AXLE

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Conditions Possible Cause

Over-Heating of the (a) Lubricant level too low.

Axle Unit

(b) Bearing adjusted too tightly.

(c) Excessive wear in gears.

Loss of Lubricant (a) Lubricant level too high.

(b) Improper type lubricant.

(c) Clogged breather.

(d) Oil seals worn.

Corrections

(a) Add lubricant as required.

(b) Adjust bearings correctly.

(c) Replace excessively worn gears.

(a) Remove excessive lubricant.

(b) Remove lubricant and replace with the recommended type.

(c) Clean breather thoroughly.

(d) Replace seals as required.

MyMopar.com

PARKING BRAKE 4-1

GftOUP 4

PARKING BHAKE

CONTENTS

Page

Data and S p e c i f i c a t i o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

External Contracting Type Parking Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Parking Brake Band Lining 3

Parking Brake Internal Expanding Type 5

Parking Brake Cable 6

Service Diagnosis 6

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Internal Expanding

External Contracting

(Manual Transmission)

Location . .

f c

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Propeller Shaft at Rear of Transmission

Drum Diameter 7 inches

Lining Type Internal—Moulded Asbestos

Width 2 inches

Thickness %

2

inches

Clearance . . . \ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .015 to .020 Inches

TIGHTENING

REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds Inch-Pounds

Parking Brake Cable Bracket Clamp Bolt 20

Parking Brake Lever to Instrument Panel 20

Parking Brake Adjusting Bolt Cover Bolt 130

Transmission Shaft Flange Bolt Nut %

6

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

% . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

MyMopar.com

4-2 PARKING BRAKE

GROUP 4

PARKING BRAKE

The foot operated parking brake pedal and release handle is located to the left of the steering column.

The brake is applied by pressing down firmly on the pedal The brake is released when the "T" shaped handle is pulled and depressed. The pedal and release handle are serviced as a unit and need only periodic lubrication.

A steel enclosed brake cable connects the pedal and release handle assembly to the parking brake located on the rear of the transmission. A l l

Chrysler Models equipped with the standard three speed transmission have a 7 inch external contracting parking brake (Fig. 1).

EXTERNAL CONTRACTING TYPE PARKING BRAKE

The external type parking brake consists of a brake drum bolted to the universal joint flange and an external contracting type band, mounted at the rear of the manual transmission (Fig. 1).

The brake lining should be replaced i f the lining has worn so that the depth of the rivet counterbore. is less than V32 inch. When relining the parking brake, care should be taken not to distort the band from its original shape.

Parking brake drums should be replaced i f the braking surface is worn, rough, scored or damaged.

Fig. 1—External Contracting Brake (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

PARKING BRAKE 4-3

S E l f l C E PBOCEDUHES

PARKING BRAKE a. Removal

BAND LINING

(1) Eemove the cotter pin, pivot pin and lever assembly (Fig. 1).

(2) Remove the adjusting nut, bolt and springs.

(3) "Remove the guide screw lock nuts, guide screw and springs.

(4) Remove the anchor screw locking wire and anchor screw.

(5) 'Remove the band assembly from the drum and off of the.propeller shaft.

CAUTION '

Take care not to lose the anchor spring as the band is pulled off of the brake anchor. b.

Reining Broke Band (Band Removed)

I f the lining is not already tailored to fit the band, the lining must be cut to Insure tight adherence to the band. Cut the lining % inch longer than the inside contour of the band. The rivet hole counterbores must be % of thickness of the lining.

(1) Cut off the lining- rivet heads and remove the old lining.

(2) Thoroughly clean the inside surface of the brake band.

(3) Place the lining within the brake band with the ends of the lining flush with the ends of the band (the center of the lining will have a slight hump in i t ) .

(4) Drill and counterbore the end rivet holes and rivet the ends of the lining.

(5) Compress the hump in the center of the lining and force the lining snugly against the brake hand.

(6) Drill, counterbore and rivet the balance of the lining.

(T) Chamfer the two ends of the lining to reduce noise and- grabbing effect. c.

Installation

(1) Position the brake band over the propeller shaft.

(2) Install the anchor spring into the recess of the brake anchor.

(3) Holding the brake anchor spring compressed, slide the brake band over the drum and anchor.

(4) Install the anchor screw finger tight.

(5) Install the guide bolt and locking bolts.

(6) Install the adjusting bolt, springs, and adjusting nut.

(7) Install the pivot pin through the lever assembly and spacer. Install a new cotter pin. d.

Adjustments

Before adjusting the parking brake, inspect the vertical free play between the brake anchor bracket and the brake anchor (Fig. 2). I f free play exceeds

.005 inch brake band distortion may occur when brakes are applied. Excessive clearance may be reduced by compressing the anchor bracket in a vise.

(1) Place the parking brake pedal and lever assembly in the fully released position.

(2) Using a feeler gauge, adjust the anchor bolt so that the clearance between the lining and the drum is from .015 to .020 inch.

(3) Install locking wire through the anchor screw.

Fig. 2—Parking Brake Adjustment

NOTE: The locking wire should not be drawn tight as it may distort the position of the brake band.

(4) Adjust the guide screw so there is a slight drag from the bottom half of the brake band.

(5) Tighten the adjusting nut so that there is only a slight drag from the top half of the brake band.

(8) Apply the parking brake several times and test for excessive dragging when released.

MyMopar.com

4 4 PARKING BRAKE

BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN

OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING

OIL SEAI

BRAKE SUPPORT

GREASE SHIELD

BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY

BRAKE SUPPORT

BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER

BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING

LEVER LINK

BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE

SHIELD SPRING

BRAKE SHOE

RETURN SPRING

CABLE

GUIDE CLAMP

BRACKET

ASSEMBLY

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT

53x58 fig.

3 —Parking Brake Internal Expanding

BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE

BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER

BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER LINK

BRAKE SHOE & LINING ASSY

SHAFT FLANGE & BRAKE DRUM ASSY

BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN

BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR

BRAKE SUPPORT

BRAKE SUPPORT

SPACER

BRAKE ADJUSTING /

SCREW COVER /

BRAKE ADJUSTING

SCREW COVER

SCREW

SHAFT FLANGE WASHER

SHAFT FLANGE NUT

BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD SPRING

BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW LOCKWASHER

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW NUT

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE 53x3A

Fig. 4—Parking Brake Internal Expanding (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

PARKING BRAKE 4-5

PARKING I R A K (Internal Expanding Type)

(Figures 3 and 4)

All Models equipped with the automatic transmission have a 7 inch internal expanding two shoe parking brake Fig. 3).

OPERATING*?

LEVER

^CONTROL CABLE

UIDE CLAMP

CLAMP BOLT,

NUT AND

LOCK

WASHER a. Disassembly

(1) Disconnect the propeller shaft,at the transmission. ^ .

(2) Engage the holding Tool C-3281 with the companion flange, loosen and remove the companion flange nut, lockwasher and flatwasher.

(3) Install'the puller Tool C-452 on the companion flange, removing flange and brake drum.

(4) Disengage the ball end of cable from the operating lever (Fig. 5).

(5) Separate the shoes at the bottom, allowingthe brake.shoe adjusting nut, screw and sleeve to drop out, then release the shoes.

(6) Pry the brake shoe return spring up and over the right brake shoe pin, then work the spring out of the assembly.

(7) Pry out the brake shoe retaining washer and remove outer guide.

J^jfCONTROL CABLE • ty^gftMUlBfltf*^ CABLE SPRING

SHOE ADJUST SCREW, NUT AND SLEEVE

• BALL END

0\

CONTROL CABLE 50x137B

Fig. 5—Rear View of Internal Parking Brake stalled in the reverse position, adjustment would be difficult.

(6)

Place the outer anchor guide over the anchor, then attach the shoes with the retaining washer.

(7) Turn the brake shoe adjusting nut until the shoes are in the fully released position, then install the brake drum.

NOTE: Be sure the brake shoes are centered on the backing plate and are free to move.

(8) Slide each shoe out from under the guide spring. (As the shoes are removed, the operating lever strut will drop out of place.)

(9) Separate the operating lever from the right brake shoe by removing nut, lockwasher and bolt.

The brake has now been disassembled as far as necessary for replacement of worn or damaged parts.

(8) Adjust the brake shoes and control cable as outlined below. c. Adjustment b.

Assembly (Figure 3)

(1) Remove the adjusting screw cover plate.

(2) Turn the brake shoe adjusting nut, as shown in Figure 5, to decrease shoe-to-drum clearance until a slight drag is felt on the drum. Back off the adjusting nut at least one full notch (using spanner wrench Tool C-3723) or until brake drum is free.

(1) Assemble the operating lever to the right brake shoe.

(2) Slide the right and left hand brake shoes under the guide spring and up on top of the inner anchor guide.

WASHER

SEAL

PARKING BRAKE

CABLE

(3) Spread the shoes and insert the operating lever strut with the wide slot toward the operating lever, and stamped "top" facing up.

(4) Work the shoe return spring under the grease shield spring and secure ends in proper holes in webs of shoes, as shown-in Figure 3.

(5) Spread the bottom of both shoes apart and install the brake shoe adjusting nut screw and sleeve.

ADJUSTING

NUT

PARKING BRAKE

LEVER ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Install the adjusting nut> in the proper position, as shown

screw and sleeve

in Figure 3. If in-

62X85

Fig.

6 —Parking Brake PedaL Lever and Cable Assembly

(Models SOL SC-2, SC-3)

MyMopar.com

4-6 PARKING BRAKE

(5) Pry the ball end of the cable up and out of the operating lever slot with a screwdriver.

(6)

Remove the control cable from the guide clamp bracket.

Fig. ?—Parking Brake Pedal and

(Models SY-1)

Lever Assembly

Be sure the two raised shoulders on the adjusting nut are seated in the groove on the adjusting sleeve.

(3)

Test the parking brake lever for travel When properly adjusted, there should not be more than 31 /4

Inches of parking brake pedal travel Never substitute a brake shoe adjustment by adjusting the cable.

(4) Install the adjusting screw cover plate.

PARKING BRAKE CABLE a.

Removal (Figures 6 and 7)

(1) Release the parking brake.

(2) Remove the cable adjusting nut from the end of the cable at the upper end of parking brake lever.

(3) From the engine compartment, remove the upper end of cable from dash panel

(4) Loosen the guide clamping bolt at the brake support, as shown in Figure 5, then remove the adjusting screw cover plate. b. Installation

(1) Slide the cable into the guide clamp bracket at the brake support. Insert Tool C-3015 between the spring retainer washer and the ball on the end of cable.

(2) Hook the cable into the slot in the operating lever, with the lever between the ball and the washer, as shown in Figure 5. The cable must be installed so that the cable conduit is not pulled taut between any of the fastening points. To provide free cable operation, care must be used to prevent kinking of the housing, also, all bends must have a radius of

6 inches or more.

(3) Route cable from transmission up the front of dash panel

(4) Install the plastic seal and washer on the cable (Fig. 4) and insert the cable through dash panel opening.

(5) Install the housing retainer.

(6) Insert the threaded end of the cable in the pedal trunnion, depress the foot pedal to do so, return foot pedal to released position, and install the cable adjusting nut.

(7) Tighten the cable adjusting nut so that the nut is seated on the trunnion without pulling any additional cable through the dash panel.

(8)

After the adjustment has been completed, apply and release the foot pedal several times. Then, when fully released check to insure that the cable adjusting nut is seated on the trunnion. Readjust if necessary.

(9) To check for correct adjustment, apply approximately 60 pounds-foot pressure on the pad and measure pedal travel The travel at the pad should not be more than 3 ^ inches. With the foot pedal fully released, the parking brake must release and the propeller shaft revolve freely.

Condition

Dragging Brake

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Improper cable or brake adjust- (a) Adjust brake shoes and cable. ment.

(b) Broken brake shoe return spring. (b) Replace brake shoe return spring.

MyMopar.com

Condition

Overheating Brake

Brake Grabbing

Brake Chattering

PARKING BRAKE

4-7

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Possible Cause

(c) Broken brake support spring.

(d) Oil soaked brake lining.

(e) Bent or distorted drum.

(f) Bent or broken brake shoe.

(f) Frozen brake pedal assembly.

Correction

(c) Eeplace brake support spring.

(d) Replace transmission oil seal and brake shoes.

(e) Replace brake drum.

(f) Replace brake shoe.

(S) Lubricate and free up brake pedal assembly.

(a) Improper cable or brake adjust- (a) Adjust brake shoes and cable. ment.

(b) Broken or misaligned brake sup- (b) Replace or align brake support spring. port spring.

(c) Broken or disconnected brake shoe return spring.

(c) Replace or align brake.

(d) Missing brake shoe anchor retain- (d) Install new brake shoe retaining ing washer. washer.

(e) Replace brake drum. (e) Bent or distorted drum.

(f) Bent or broken brake shoe.

(«r) Frozen brake pedal assembly.

(f) Replace broken brake shoe.

(g) Lubricate and free up brake pedal assembly.

(a) Improper brake or cable adjust- (a) Adjust brake and cable. ment.

(b) Oil soaked brake lining. (b) Replace transmission oil seal and brake shoes. Clean off drum.

(c) Loose brake drum.

(d) Loose or broken anchor pin.

(e) Warped or bent brake drum.

(c) Tighten brake drum.

(d) Replace anchor pin.

(e) Replace brake drum.

(f) Scored or cracked brake drum. (f) Replace brake drum.

(a) Improper brake or cable adjust- (a) Adjust brake and cable. ment.

(b) Oil soaked lining. (b) Replace transmission oil seal and brake shoes.

(c) Worn or distorted brake lining. (c) Replace brake shoes.

(d) Loose anchor pin. (d) Replace anchor pin.

(e). Scored or cracked drum. (e) Replace brake drum.

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 5-1

GROUP 5

SERVICE SHAKES

CONTENTS

Page

Brake Adjustment • 11

Brake Hose and Lines - • - - • • • 12

Brake Grinding Recommendations 7

Brake Lining (Cyclebond) .. 7

Brake Shoe Inspection 7

Brake System Bleeding. H

Brake Shoe Removal - 5

Data and Specifications 2

Fluid Contamination Tests. • • • H

Front and Rear Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders Removal •

8

Front and Rear Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders Installation • • • 10

Master Cylinder Servicing 12

Service Diagnosis 15

VACUUM BRAKE BOOSTER

Brake Booster Installation 13

Brake Booster Removal • • • • 13

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

ALL MODELS

Type Hydraulic Total Contact

Internal Expanding

Drum Diameter (Front—Rear)

SC-l, Newport (122" Wheelbase) 11'

SC-2, C-300H (122" Wheelbase) 12"

SC-l, Town and Country (122" Wheelbase) 12"

SC-3, New Yorker (incl. Town & Country) (126" Wheelbase) 12"

SY-1, Imperial (129" Wheelbase) 12"

MyMopar.com

5-2 SERVICE BRAKES

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

Lining Type... Molded Asbestos

Attached to Shoes by. Cyclebond

Width—All Models Front 2y

2

" Rear 2W

Thickness........ .170"

Brake Shoe Return Spring Tension—

Pounds—Front. 45 to 55

Pounds—Rear.

45

to

55

Per Cent of Braking Torque—Rear Wheels 40

Diameter of Wheel Cylinder Bore \y%

Diameter of Master Cylinder Bore \y%

Piston Cylinder Clearance (All Bores) .003" to .0065"

Brake Pedal Free Play (Power Brakes)

\tf

to V{

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds Inch-Pounds

Rear Wheel Brake Support to Axle Housing 35

Front Wheel Brake Mounting Bolt.

55

Wheel Cylinder Mounting Bolt. 200

Master Cylinder Cover Bolt . . . . . 50

Pedal Bracket Nut 20

Pedal Shaft Nut 20 .

Transmission Shaft Flange Bolt Nut

*W • 95 y% 35

W • 50

GROUP 5

SE1VICE

BRAKES

The service brakes used on the 1962 Chrysler and The brake assemblies (Figs. 3 and 4) are corn-

Imperial Models are known as the three-platform prised of dust shields, brake shoes, return springs type Total Contact Brakes (-Figs. 1 and 2). and wheel cylinders.

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES

5-3

MyMopar.com

54 SERVICE BRAKES

Brake shoe support is obtained by locating the brake shoes on three raised platforms pressed into the dust shield. Each brake shoe is located on three platforms of the dust shield and guided by the three companion contact loops on the brake shoe (Fig.

5).

The four shoes in the front wheel brakes and the two forward shoes in the rear wheel brakes are selfenergized when the car is moving forward. These shoes are adjusted in the same direction while the remaining rear shoes in the rear wheels are adjusted In the opposite direction, as shown in Figure

6.

CAUTION

To prevent brake drum distortion, great care should be taken when changing wheels so that the wheel

Is properly seated and wheel stud nuts are correctly torqued.

When tightening the stud nuts, alternately tighten the nuts to x

/% (30 f t . lbs.) of the specified torque. Then tighten to the final torque of 60 foot pounds.

SEBflCE PBOCEDUBES

When servicing the hydraulic $fe,ke system, there (1) Vital parts of the system must be kept are three important rules to remember: CLEAN, free from dirt, grease and oil.

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 5-5

Fig. 4

—Total Contact Brakes

(Heat) (Disassembled View)

(2) The system must be free from entrapped air and all connections must be tight upon completion of any service job.

(3) Use only factory recommended type high boiling point MoPar Super Brake Fluid.

BRAKE SHOES REMOVAL (Figs. 3 and 4)

A. Removing the Front Brake Shoes

(1) Block the brake pedal to prevent any downward movement of the pedal.

(2) Remove the front wheel and drum as an assembly, after backing off the adjusting cams.

(3) Use Tool C-3462 to remove the shoe return springs, as shown in Figure 7. The end of the tool should be inserted between the spring and the brake shoe web to remove the shoe return spring.

L E F T FRONT R I G H T FRONT

L E F T R E A R R I G H T REAR

Fig. 5—Raised Platform and Shoe

Contact Loops

Fig. 6—Brake Adjusting Diagram

MyMopar.com

5-6 SERVICE BRAKES

Fig. 9—Removing the Front Brake Shoe

Fig.

7 —Removing the Brake Shoe Return Spring

Do not use brake spring pliers or damage to the lining will result.

CAUTION downward movement back off the adjusting cams.

The shoes and support plates may become bent i f the cams are not backed off.

(2) Remove the rear wheel. Use puller, Tool C-

845, to remove the rear wheel drum.

(4) Turn the brake shoe guide retainer % turn, then the retainer guide spring and rod, as shown in

Figure 8,

NOTE: The lip on the end of guide rod is used for positioning the guide rod into the slot of the spring retainer.

(5) Slide the shoes from between the support plates, as shown In Figure 9.

CAUTION

Do not use a "knock off" type wheel puller.

(3) Use Tool C-3462 to remove the shoe return springs, as shown in Figure 7. The end of the tool should be inserted between the spring and the web of the brake shoe to remove the shoe return spring.

B. Removing -the Rear Brake Shoes

(1) With the brake pedal blocked to prevent any

CAUTION

Do not use brake spring pliers, or damage to the lining will result.

Fig. 8—Removing the Brake Shoe Guide Spring, Rod and Retainer Fig. 10—Removing the Rear Brake Shoe

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 5-7

(4) Turn the brake shoe guide retainer 44 turn, then remove the retainer and guide rod (refer to

Fig. 8).

NOTE; The lip on the end of guide rod is used for positioning the guide rod into the slot of the spring retainer.

(5) Slide the shoes from between the support plates (Fig. 10).

WSPECHNG THE BRAKE SHOES

Wipe or dry brush clean the metal portions of the brake shoes. Examine the lining contact pattern to determine If the shoes are true, and shoe tables square with the web. The lining should show contact across the entire width, extending from heel to toe. Shoes showing contact on only one side should be examined and the cause determined. Shoes should be checked for squareness. I f the web is bent, discard the shoe. Shoes having sufficient lining but lack of contact at toe and heel, should be inspected for proper grind. The shoe should be inspected for lining overhang, burrs at the anchor and loops. Inspect the raised platforms on the brake shield for height and flatness. Nicks and burrs should be removed.

CYCLEBOND BRAKE LINING

Pre-cemented MoPar cyclebond brake lining can be successfully bonded to either new or used shoes, providing certain proven steps are followed. See instructions and model applications contained in the

MoPar replacement packages.

Knowing the drum diameter, the proper measurement is then placed on the grinder, and the lining ground to the required clearance of .010 to .024 inch, under drum diameter.

The grinding of brake linings need only be done if the cyclebond process is done in the dealership or the drum is refaced.

INSTALLING THE BRAKE SHOES

CAUTION

Whenever the brake shoes are removed from the dust shield on a noise complaint, the brake shield platforms should be measured for flatness and height. Measure platform height, as shown in Figures 11 and 12 with Tool MT-19-J or Tool DD-1168 with the shoes in place and a feeler gauge. The platforms should be in the same plane within .010 inch.

A. Installing the Front Brake Shoes

Before installing the front brake shoes, apply a light coat of stick lubriplate on the raised platforms of the dust shield and on the shoe at the anchor reaction area end at the cam finger.

(1) Slide the brake shoes into position between the support plates. Be sure the ends of the cylinder push rods engage the toe end of the shoes properly.

(2) Insert brake shoe return springs in the link of the support plate.

(3) Use tool C-3462, as shown in Figure 13, to attach the return springs to the loop of the brake shoe table.

NOTE: Be sure that the end of the spring is hooked into the loop of the shoes properly to prevent the coil of the spring contacting the shoe.

GRINDING RECOMMENDATIONS

A.

Broke Shoe

lining

New lining i f not pre-ground should be inspected and ground .010 to .024 inch under the drum diameter on a machine having a cylindrical grinding wheel.

B.

Drum Reiacing

Measure the drum runout with an accurate gauge.

Drum runout should not exceed .004

inch out of round. I f the drum runout is in excess of .004 inch, the drum should be refaced. Remove only as much material as is necessary to clean up the drum.

NOTE: Do not remove more than .030 inch of metal during the refacing operation.

I f the drum has hard spots, i t must be ground or replaced. Fig. 11—Measuring the Platform Height (Tool MT-19-I)

MyMopar.com

5

-8 SERVICE BRAKES

Fig.

12— Measuring the Platform Height {Tool DD-1168)

(4) Check the tension of the brake shoe return springs. The spring tension can be checked by hooking a scale at the toe of the shoe and pulling in the direction of piston movement. The scale should read

45 to 55 foot-pounds at the Instant the toe of the brake shoe moves. A dial indicator may be used to indicate the shoe movement.

(5) Install the guide rod and the retainers (Fig.

8). Be sure the positioning lip of the guide rod is positioned properly in the spring retainer.

(6) Install the drum wheel and tire assembly after backing off the adjusting cams. Adjust the front wheel bearings as described in "Front Suspension", Group 2.

(7) Adjust the brakes.

B. Installing the Rear Brake Shoes

Before installing the rear brake shoes, apply a light coat of stick lubriplate on the raised platforms of the dust shield and on the shoe anchor where i t contacts the support plate.

(1) Slide the brake shoes into position between the support plates. Be sure the ends of the cylinder push rods engage the toe end of the shoes properly

(Fig.

10).

(2) Insert the brake shoe return springs in the link of the support plate (Fig. 10).

(3) Use Tool C-3462, as shown in Figure 13, to attach the springs to the loop of the shoe table.

(4) Install the guide rod retainers (Fig. 8). Be sure the positioning lip of the guide rod slides into the slot of the spring retainer.

(5) Measure the tension of the brake shoe return springs. The spring tension can be measured by hooking a scale at the toe of the shoe and pulling in the direction of piston movement. The scale should read 45 to 50 foot-pounds at the instant the toe of the shoe moves. A dial indicator may be used to indicate the shoe movement.

(6) Install the drum, wheel and tire assembly, after backing off the adjusting cams.

(7) Adjust the brakes.

REMOVING THE FRONT AND REAR SUPPORT

PLATES

AND

WHEEL CYLINDERS

A. Removal—Front Support Plates and Wheel

Cylinder

(1) Remove the wheel, tire, and brake drum assembly.

Fig. 13 — Installing the Brake Shoe Return Spring Fig. 14

—

Removing the Front Support Plate

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 5-9

(2) Remove the four retaining nuts attaching the support plates and dust shield to the steering knuckle.

(3) Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the frame bracket.

(4) Remove the four bolts that attach the brake assembly to the steering knuckle. Note the location of the bolts and the size. Three different lengths are used.

(5) Remove the brake assembly, as shown In

Figure 14.

CAUTION

Do not allow the dust shield to strike the bearing surface of the knuckle as damage may result.

(3) Slide the support plates out and away from the axle, as shown in Figure 15. When removing the dust shield, It is advisable to Install the seal protector, Tool C-745, then slide the dust shield and seal off axle.

(4) Remove the bolts that attach the wheel cylinder to the support plate. Lift the wheel cylinder away from the plate. Inspect and clean the support plate. I f reconditioning the wheel cylinders, refer to Paragraph "Wheel Cylinders".

C. Cleaning and Inspection (Support Plates)

(6) Remove the brake shoes.

(7) Remove the connecting tube between the wheel cylinders.

NOTE; Do not distort the tube.

(8) Remove each wheel cylinder mounting bolt after removing the sealer. Remove the support plate assembly, from the dust shield, as shown In Figure

15.

(9) Remove the wheel cylinders. I f It Is necessary to service the wheel cylinders, refer to Paragraph

"Servicing the Wheel Cylinders".

B. Removal—Rear Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders

Clean the support plates in a suitable solvent, blow dry with compressed air, and inspect as follows:

Check the freeness of the adjusting cams and return spring links. The adjusting cams should turn without binding (7-10 foot-pounds). Do not turn the adjusting cams unnecessarily. A small amount of rotation will tell i f cam torque is correct.

Inspect the condition of the adjusting cam dust shield washers. I f the washers are cracked or deteriorated, new ones should be installed during assembly. I f any visual distortion of the support plates is apparent, new plates should be installed. The support plates must be flat.

D. Cleaning and Inspection (Wheel Cylinders)

Wheel cylinders pistons that are badly scored or corroded should be replaced. The old piston cups should be discarded when reconditioning the hydraulic system.

(1) Remove the rear brake shoes.

(2) Disconnect the brake tube at the wheel cylinder. Remove the nuts and lockwashers that attach the support plates and wheel cylinders to the dust shield and axle housing flange.

Fig. 15 — Removing the Rear Support Plate Fig. 16—Front Wheel Clyinder

MyMopar.com

5

-10 SERVICE BRAKES

Fig.

17—Rear

Wheel Cylinder

57x358 A

Measure the dust shield for the platform height.

(3) Lubricate the adjusting cams of the support plate assembly lightly with stick lubriplate, then slide brake shoes into position between the support plates.

(4) Install the brake shoe return springs through the link of the support plate and use Tool C-3462 to attach the spring to the brake shoe, as shown in

Figure 13.

(5) Install the brake shoe guide rod, spring and retainers.

(6) Install the wheel cylinder connecting tube, being careful not to bend or distort the tube.

(7) Turn the brake adjusting cams to the fully released position. Attach the brake hose to the frame bracket. Connect the brake tube.

(8) Install the drum and wheel assembly. Adjust the front wheel bearing, as described in "Front Suspension", Group 2.

(9) Bleed and adjust the brakes.

Cylinder walls that have very light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth, using a circular motion. However, cylinders that have scratches or scoring may be honed, using Tool C-3080, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is,not increased by more than .002 inch. Any cylinder bore Increased by more than .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the piston cups and do not cause any damage.)

Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the wheel cylinder, dip them in Super Brake Fluid.

Refer to Figures 16 and 17, then assemble the brake cylinders. I f the boots are deteriorated, or do hot fit tightly on the brake shoe push rod or on the wheel cylinder casting, new boots should be installed.

INSTALLING

PLATES

THE FRONT AND

A. Installation {Front Support Plates and Wheel

Cylinders •

(1) Install the brake cylinders on the support plates, position the support plates on the dust shield.

(Be sure the dust washers are in place).

Install the wheel cylinder attaching bolts and tighten 15 to 20 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Slide the brake assemblies over the steering knuckles. Install the bolts, nuts and tighten to 55 foot pounds torque.

REAR

AND WHEEL CYLINDERS

SUPPORT

B. Installation (Rear Support Plates and Wheel

Cylinders

(1) Place the whlel cylinder on the support plate, and install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts

5 to 20 foot pounds torque.

(2) Install a new seal in the dust shield ( i f needed), and install the seal protector Tool C-745 into the seal. Install the dust shield and the seal over the axle shaft and down against the flange.

(3) Slide the support plate assembly over the axle shaft.

(4) Install the lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35 foot pounds torque. Measure the dust shield platform height.

(5) Slide the brake shoes into position between the support plates, after lubricating the cam finger and anchor reaction area with stick lubriplate.

(6) Install the brake shoe return springs through the link of the support plaj^e and use Tool C-3462 attach the spring to the l i p ! o f the brake shoe. -

J

\

(7) Install the brake s h o ^ i i d e rod and retainers^?

Be sure the positioning lip c ^the guide rod is positioned into the slot of the retainers.

(8) Turn the brake adjusting cams to the fully released position, and attach the brake line to the wheel cylinder. Remove the Tool C-745.

(9) Insert the key on the slot in the axle shaft, chalk the axle shaft, and install the drum. Install

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 541

the wheel and tire. Bleed and adjust the brakes,

as described in P a r a g r a p h "Bleeding the B r a k e Syst e m " .

BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM

NOTE

: During

the

following operations,

use MoPar

Super Brake Fluid.

(1) Clean all the dirt from around the master cylinder reservoir cover and from the bottom of the power brake cylinder (if so equipped).

(2) Remove the reservoir cover and install B r a k e

Bleeder T a n k Tool C-3496 (or its equivalent) with adapter Tool C-349A.

(3) R a i s e the car wheels from the ground and back off the brake shoe adjusting cams to the fully release position. T h i s allows the brake shoe to force the wheel cylinder pistons and cups as far back into the wheel cylinder as possible, trapping all the air near the bleeder screw hole.

(4) Clean all dirt from the wheel cylinder bleed valve and attach Bleeder Hose Tool C-650 to the valve. Place the other end of the hose in a clean, uncontaminated j a r so the fluid can be reused. Use only MoPar Heavy D u t y B r a k e Fluid, P a r t No.

1879268. Bleed each wheel cylinder for a minimum of thirty seconds of continuous fluid flow in the following order: R i g h t rear, left rear, right front lower, right front upper, left front lower left front upper.

C A U T I O N

Water and any type of mineral oil product such as gasoline, engine oil etc.

will contaminate brake fluid.

It is extremely important that the container used to catch the brake fluid be clean, free of moisture and must never at any time have contained mineral oil

in

any

form.

(5)

Remove the bleeder tank and install the reservoir cover. A d j u s t all the brake shoes as outlined in the " B r a k e Shoe A d j u s t m e n t " Procedures. brake fluid and shake. If the contents become milky, mineral

oil

m a y be present. If the contents remain clear, it is not contaminated w i t h mineral

oil.

B e safe and discard old brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

NOTE: F l u i d drained from the bleeding operation may contain dirt particles

or

other contamination and should not be reused.

ADJUSTING THE BRAKES

All cams have a %

6

inch hex adjusting head, and operate against the toe end of the shoe web and extend through the brake dust shield.

The four shoes in the front wheel brakes and the two forward shoes in the rear wheel brakes are selfenergized when the vehicle is moving forward; these shoes are tightened in the forward direction while the rear shoes in the rear wheels are tightened in the reverse dirction, as shown in F i g u r e 6.

N O T E : Whenever the brakes have been relined or new shoes have been installed, always apply pedal prior to adjusting the brakes. T h i s causes the brake shoes to center themselves to assist in the adjustment.

A. Front Brake Adjustment

(1) P e r f o r m the following operations on one cam at a time on both front wheels. T u r n the adjusting cam in the direction of wheel forward rotation until the shoe lining is solidly against the drum, as shown in F i g u r e 6, and the wheel is locked.

(2) T u r n

the

adjusting cam slowly in the opposite direction until no drag is felt. Repeat the operation on the other c a m .

GASKET

BODY

, OUTLET PORT

• INLET PORT

TEST FOR FLUID CONTAMINATION

In order to determine if contamination exists in the brake fluid, which may be indicated

by

swollen, deteriorated rubber cups, the following simple tests can

be

made.

(1) Place a small amount of drained brake fluid in

a

small clean clear glass bottle. Separation of the fluid into two distinct layers m a y indicate mineral oil contamination.

(2)

A d d

1

part water to two parts of the drained

SPRING

VALVE

WASHER

57x145B

Fig. 18—Master Cylinder (Cross Section View)

(Manual Brake)

MyMopar.com

5-12 SERVICE BRAKES

B. Rear Brake Adjustment

The rear wheel forward brake shoe adjusting cam is rotated in the direction of forward wheel rotation to bring the shoe lining nearer to the drum. The rear brake shoe adjusting cam is rotated in the direction of wheel reverse rotation, as shown in Figure J>; Repeat the adjustment procedure on rear wlaiels as outlined in the "Front Brake Adjustment."

SERVICING THE MASTER CYLINDER (Figs. 18 and 19)

NOTE: The master cylinder fitr»fehicles without power brakes, has a fluted dust boot and retainer.

This retainer acts as a master cylinder piston stop.

The pedal return spring and pedal stop have been eliminated.

Fig. 19—Master Cylinder (Disassembled View)

(Power Brake)

55x81C

A. Removal

(1) Remove the master cylinder push rod clevis pin.

(2) Disconnect the push rod.

(3) Disconnect the brake tube at the master cylinder.

(4) Disconnect the stop light switch leads.

(5) Remove the nuts that attach the master cylinder to the dash panel. Slide the master cylinder straight out and away from dash panel. by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth, and clean the second time with alcohol. Dry the master cylinder with air pressure, then flush with clean, heavy duty brake fluid. (Be sure the compensating port in the master cylinder is open.)

C. Assembly

Before assembling, the piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in new brake fluid. (Refer to

Figure 18 for master cylinder assembled.)

B. Cleaning and Inspection

Clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly, remove the cover and drain all brake fluid. Refer to Figure 17, and disassemble the master cylinder for inspection.

I f the master cylinder piston is badly scored or corroded, replace it with a new one. The piston cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning the master cylinder.

Master cylinder walls that have very light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. Cylinders that have scratches or scoring may be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased by more than .002 inch should be discarded and a new master cylinder used. (Black stains on the cylinder wall are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.) Use extreme care in cleaning the master cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit

BRAKE HOSE AND LINES

Inspection of brake hose should be included in all brake service operations. The hoses should be checked for:

(1) Correct length, severe surfaces cracks, pulling, scuffing or worn spots.

(2) Faulty installation causing twisted hose and wheel, tire or chassis interference.

(3) Always use the factory recommended hose to insure quality, length and long service life. Care should be taken to make sure the seating surfaces are clean and free from nicks and burrs. Copper washers are to be used, and the tube nuts and connections properly made and tightened.

(4) Double tubing should always be used to insure long life and corrosion resistance. Flares and acute angles should always be accomplished with the properl tools to guard against leaks and restrictions from reduced tube cross section.

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 543

VACUUM

BRAKE

BOOSTER

The tandem diaphragm type brake booster Is a self contained vacuum hydraulic power braking unit. I t

Is of the vacuum suspended type which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its power. This type of unit does not require a vacuum reservoir. The basic elments of the vacuum unit are as follows.

(a) - The vacuum power chamber consists of a front and rear shell, a center plate, front and rear diaphragm, hydraulic push-rod and a vacuum diaphragm return spring. (Fig.

20).

(b) A mechanically, actuated control valve integral with the vacuum power diaphragms, controls the degree of power brake application or release In accordance with the foot pressure applied to the valve operating rod through the brake pedal linkage.

The control valve is of a single poppet type valve with an atmospheric port and a vacuum port. The vacuum port seat is a part of the valve body attached to the diaphragm assembly. The atmospheric port Is a part of the valve plunger which moves within the valve housing and vacuum power diaphragm assembly.

(c) A hydraulic master cylinder which contains all of the elements of the standard brake master cylinder .except for the special hydraulic push rod which is a part of the brake booster.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to adjust the hydraulic push rod.

SERVICE

PROCEDURES

BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL

(1) Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum line from the check valve.

(3) From under the dash, remove the push rod nut and bolt from the brake booster and brake pedal.

(4) From under the dash remove the four brake booster attaching nuts and washers.

(5) Withdraw the brake booster and master cylinder assembly from the booster support bracket.

(6) Remove the four master cylinder attaching nuts and washers and remove the master cylinder from the brake booster.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to disassemble the brake booster as this unit will be serviced by the Manufacturer's

Service Station.

BRAKE BOOSTER INSTALLATION er.

(1)

Install the master cylinder on the brake boost-

(2) Insert the brake booster push rod through the brake support and install the four attaching washers and nuts.

(3) Install the push rod attaching bolt and nut through the push rod and brake pedal.

(4) Attach the vacuum hose to the check valve.

(5) Attach the brake line to the master cylinder.

(6)

Fill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

(7) Inspect the adjustment of the stop light switch.

MyMopar.com

Fig.

20 —Vacuum Brake Booster

MyMopar.com

SERVICE BRAKES 5-15

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SERVICE BRAKES

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Brake Pedal goes to • the Floor

Dragging Brakes

Hard Brake -Pedal

(a) Excessive shoe clearance.

(b) Dry master cylinder.

(c) Worn brake lining.

(d) Broken brake line.

(e) Scored master cylinder cup.

(a) Adjust the brakes.

(b) Fill the master cylinder.

(c) Adjust or replace the brake shoes.

(d) Replace the broken brake line and bleed system.

'e) Recondition the master cylinder.

(a) Insufficient shoe clearance.

(b) Restricted brake line or hose

''a) Adjust the brakes.

(b) Clean the lines or replace the hose.

(c) Brake shoes binding on support (c) Sand and lubricate the brake shoe platplate. forms.

(d) .Weak or improper brake shoe (d) Replace the brake shoe return springs. return.

(e) Swollen wheel cylinder cups. (e) Replace the wheel cylinder cups.

(0 Bent or out of round brake drum. (f) Reface or replace the brake drum.

(a) Lining hard or glazed.

(b) Frozen brake pedal linkage.

(a) Replace the brake shoes.

(b) Free up and lubricate the brake pedal linkage.

(c) Restricted brake line or hose. (c) Clean out the brake line or replace the brake hose.

(d) Inoperative power unit. (d) Test operation of the power unit, correct as required.

Soft or Spongy Brake

Pedal

Brakes Pull

(a) Air in hydraulic system.

(b) Brakes improperly adjusted.

(a) Bleed the hydraulic system. fb) Adjust the brakes.

(c) Flexible hose deteriorated by •c) Replace the brake hose and bleed the grease or oil. hydraulic system.

(d) Bent brake shoes. (d) Replace the brake shoes.

(a) Lining saturated with grease or (a) Reline both fronts or rears or all four. brake fluid.

(b) Out of round brake drum.

* (c) Frozen wheel cylinder.

(b) Reface or replace the brake drum.

(c) Recondition or replace the wheel cylinder.

(d) Restricted brake line or hose. (d) Clean out the brake line or replace hose.

(e) Loose lower control arm strut. (e) Tighten the lower control arm strut.

One Wheel Locks

Brakes Chatter or Squeal

(a) Saturated lining.

(b) Smooth tire tread.

(a) Reline both fronts or rears or all four.

(b) Match the tire treads, fronts or rears.

(c) Restricted brake line or hose. (c) Clean the brake line or replace the brake hose.

(d) Rough or scored brake drum. (d) Reface or replace the brake drum.

(a) Saturated brake lining. (a) Replace both fronts or rears or all four.

(b) Loose support plate. (b) Tighten the support plate.

(c) Rough or scored brake drum. (c) Reface or replace the drum. *

(d) Bent support plate.

(e) Bent brake shoes.

(d) Replace the support plate.

(e) Replace the brake shoes.

(f) Machining grooves in contact (f) Reface or replace the brake drum. surface of brake drum.

MyMopar.com

5-16 SERVICE BRAKES

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

VACUUM BRAKE BOOSTER

Condition

1. Hard Pedal or Lack of Assist

2. Brake Pedal Slow to Return (or Fail to Release)

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Stalled engine with loss of vacuum.

(b) Restricted or collapsed vacuum hose.

(c) Leaking vacuum hose or fittings.

(a) Start and adjust the engine for proper idle.

(b) Inspect and replace the faulty hose.

(d) Faulty check valve.

(e) Faulty brake booster assembly.

(f) Master cylinder piston binding in the bore.

(g) Hydraulic push rod out of adjustment.

(c) Inspect the hoses and replace the faulty hose. Tighten and seal all fittings.

(d) Replace the check valve.

(e) Replace the brake booster.

(f) Recondition the master cylinder.

(g) Remove the brake booster and deliver to the servicing dealer for adjustment.

(a) Clogged air cleaner.

(b) Incorrect master cylinder push rod adjustment.

(c) Weak or broken brake booster return spring.

(d) Binding brake pedal linkage.

(a) Clean with solvent and dry with compressed air.

(b) Remove the brake booster and master cylinder and deliver to the servicing dealer for adjustment.

(c) Remove the brake booster and deliver to the servicing dealer.

(d) Free up the linkage and lubricate.

MyMopar.com

CLUTCH 6-1

GROUP 8

CLUTCH

CONTENTS

Page

Clutch Adjustment in the Vehicle.... • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Clutch Cover Assembly and Adjustment. 5

Clutch Cover Disassembly • • . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Clutch Housing Alignment. • 7

Clutch Installation. 8

Clutch Pedal Free Play. • • • • • • •' • •

3

Clutch Bearing Release... . . . . . . . . .

6

Clutch Removal 3

Cleaning, Inspection and Testing. 4

Data and Specifications • • * • 1

Service Diagnosis •

9

Torque Shaft and Bearings

I

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Models SC-l, SC-2 C-3O0H

TRANSMISSION Standard 3 Speed Transmission

CLUTCH

Make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Borg & Beck Borg & Beck

Model 1506 1579

CLUTCH DISC

Facing Type Moulded Woven Asbestos

Outside Diameter 10W U "

Thickness .125" .125"

Disc Springs (number) 10 10

Disc Spring Color 5 Green 5 Tan 5 Green 5 Tan

CLUTCH COVER

Pressure Springs (number) 9 12

Spring Color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 No Color 3 White 6 White 6 Orange

Spring Pressure (lbs.) 189 ea. 201 ea. 233 ea. 162 ea.

Total Spring 'Pressure (lbs. @ 1M0 • . . • • • • • • • • ^ m 2 4 9 0

Number of Levers 3 3

.Height from Face of Flywheel. 2" 2"

Lever Setting Gauge Number. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 19

Pedal Free Play (at clutch fork)

%i

MyMopar.com

6-2 CLUTCH

TORQUE TIGHTENING

Foot-Pounds

Clutch housing to engine bolts 30

Clutch cover to flywheel bolts (%

, r

) (C-300H) 30

Clutch pan bolts. 100 Inch-Pounds

Clutch fork pivot bolts 15

Flywheel bolt nut. . . 60

Transmission to clutch housing bolts. 50

Torque shaft pivot (engine side) 40

Torque shaft pivot bracket bolts (frame side) 15

GROUP 6

CLUTCH

The semi-centrifugal clutch combines the feature of low pedal effort with that of a clutch capable of transmitting the full torque of the engine.

Six cylindrical rollers, located in the pressure plate, are free to move outward under centrifugal force until they contact the cover, as shown in

Figure 1. As engine speed increases the rollers act as wedges between the cover and the pressure plate.

The faster the clutch revolves, the greater the pressure on the plate. The greater pressure increases the normal load on the disc assembly.

MyMopar.com

CLUTCH 6-3

SEBY1CE P10CEDU1ES

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT IN THE VEHICLE

The only adjustment required while the clutch is in the vehicle, is linkage adjustment to obtain the correct amount of clutch pedal free play. The clutch pedal free play is the movement of the pedal required to close the clearance between the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers. The linkage adjustment is required to restore the pedal free play when it has been reduced by the normal wear of the clutch.

CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY

Shorten or lengthen the clutch release fork rod by turning the adjusting nut until there is %

2

inch free movement of the clutch fork outer end (Fig. 2).

This adjustment if correctly set, will give the necessary 1 (one) inch free play at the pedal.

CLUTCH—l^OVAL

(1)

Remove the transmission. See "Manual

Transmission" Group

21

for detailed procedure.

(2) Remove the clutch housing pan and the dust seal.

(3) Disconnect the release fork rod at the release fork.

(4) Remove the release fork pull-back spring.

(5) Detach the release fork from its pivot and remove the fork, dust seal, sleeve and the bearing.

(6) Mark the flywheel, the clutch cover and one pressure plate lug to maintain their same relative positions during reassembly and installation.

(7) Loosen and back off the attaching bolts a turn or two at a time in rotation to avoid bending the flange of the cover. The disc facings should not be handled or placed in contact with grease, oil or dirt.

SPRING-122" W.8. n

SPRING 6 CYL-116" W.B.

1SPRING 8 CYL-6 CYL-H.D.-116" W.B.

SEAL

\ BEARING~(2)-<8 CYL & 6 CYL. H.D.)

BRAKE A S S Y .

DASH PANEL

NUT & L.W. ASSY. (2)

SPACER ASSY

SHAFT (REF.)

ROD-116" W.S. (SHOWN) "1

ROD-122" W.B.

BOOT

NUT—(2)

PEDAL STOP L.W.-(2)

SCREW—(2)

CLUTCH PEDAL

A S S Y .

(6 CYD-116" W.B.

(8 CYL. & 6 CYL. H.D.)-116" W.B.-122" W.B.

-122" W.B.

6 2 x 4 5

Fig. 2—Clutch Pedcd Linkage (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

64 CLUTCH

COVER DISASSEMBLY

(1) Place the cover assembly on the adjusting fixture, Tool C-585A.

(2) Place the three-legged spider over the center screw, so that the legs are located midway between the staked nuts. Install the thrust washer and compression nut. Tighten the nut until the cover contacts the base of the fixture. (Fig.

3).

(3) Remove the three eye-bolt nuts, then remove the compression nut, washer and spider.

(4) Remove the clutch cover, the springs and the rollers.

(5) To remove the levers (Fig.

4), grasp the eyebolt between the thumb and index finger to hold i t up against the lever while the other fingers raise the lever up. With the other hand, lift the strut over the ridge on the end of lever. Lift the lever and eye bolt off the pressure plate and remove the strut.

CLEANING, INSPECTION AND TESTING

(1) Use compressed air to clean the dust out of the clutch housing. Inspect for leakage through the engine rear main bearing oil seal. I f leaking, it should be corrected at this time.

(2) The back face of the flywheel should have a uniform appearance throughout the entire clutch contact area. I f there is evidence of heavy contact on one portion of the wear circle and a very light contact 180° from that portion, the flywheel may be improperly mounted or sprung. In such capes, a dial indicator, mounted on the clutch housing with the plunger in contact with the wear circle, should show no more than .003

inch runout throughout a complete rotation of the flywheel.

(3) The friction face of the flywheel should also

Fig. 4—Removing Release Lever be free from discolored, burned areas, small cracks and excessive grooves or ridges.

(4) The bushing in the end of the crankshaft should be smooth and show no excessive wear. A new transmission main drive pinion or bushing driver and burnisher, Tool C-3181, can be used to gauge the size of the bushing, The tool should have a snug fit in the bushing. See Paragraph on "Pinion

Pilot Bushing Replacement."

(5) The end of the transmission main drive pinion should be smooth and bright, without grooves and ridges,

(6) The disc assembly should be handled without touching the facings. Replace facings that show evidence of grease or oil soakage or that are worn to within less than %

2

inch of the rivet heads. The hub splines and the splines on the transmission main drive pinion should be a snug fit without signs of excessive wear. The metallic portions of the assembly should be dry and clean and should show no evidence of having been hot. The coil springs should have sufficient tension to be tight in the hub. The coils should indicate that the springs have not been fully compressed in service. Each of the arched springs between the facings should be unbroken or cracked and all rivets should be tight.

"45x452

Fig.

3—Clutch Cover and Pressure Plat© Assy, in Fixture

(7) Clean all parts of the pressure plate and cover assembly in kerosene, mineral spirits or other similar solvents.

(8) Using the clutch fixture, Tool C-585, as a surface plate, t r y the cover for flatness. All the sections around the attaching bolt holes should be in contact with the surface plate within .015

inch.

The cover should be a snug fit on the pressure plate lugs, in the marked location.

The pressure plate friction area should be flat within .005

inch and should be free from discolored burned areas, cracks, grooves or ridges.

MyMopar.com

CLUTCH 6-5

- (9) The eyebolts should be a snug but free fit in the pressure plate.

(10) The rollers and the lugs of the pressure plate should not show excessive wear. The three sections of each roller should be free on the pin and free to revolve independently.

(11) The inner ends of the release levers should have a uniform wear pattern. Levers which are rough or badly worn should be replaced.

(12) I t is advisable to test pressure springs when the clutch is dismantled after considerable service or i f there has been a great amount of slippage creating excessive heat, which may have caused the springs to lose their initial load. To test a spring, first determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is 1 %

6

inch. Turn the table of

Tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 1 %

6

inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place spring over stud on table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench tool C-3005 as shown in Figure 5, until ping is heard. Take reading on wrench at this instant.

Multiply reading by two. This will give the spring load to the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on table of finer adjustments. (Refer to

Specifications and select model of clutch for spring pressure.) Discard springs that do not meet minimum requirement.

Fig, §

—

Testing Clutch Pressure Springs

COVER—ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT

Whenever the clutch pedal is operated, a slight movement of internal clutch parts must take place.

Normally, any moving parts should be lubricated, but in lubricating a dry disc type clutch, a very minimum amount of lubricant must be used.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, the disc moves on the splines of the transmission main drive pinion shaft.

The pressure plate also moves in the slots of the cover and on the eye bolts. The release levers contact the strut, the cross pin, the lever spring and the" release bearing. The roller assemblies also require minimum lubrication. When i t is advisable to lubricate these parts, a thin film of wheel bearing grease should be applied only to the contact area of the part at time of assembly.

(1) Assemble the eye bolt, cross pin and release lever. Hold the threaded end of the eye bolt between the thumb and index finger.

(2) With the other hand, hold the strut in the slot in the pressure plate lug (Fig. 4).

(3) Insert the eye bolt in the hole in the pressure plate and position the release lever under the strut so that the strut can be positioned in the groove in the lever.

(4) Install the other levers in the same manner.

(5) Place the pressure plate on the clutch fixture

Tool C-585A with the levers over the fixture feeler blades.

(8) Place the pressure springs on the pressure plate in the following order: Painted (white) next to release spring levers followed by two unpainted springs. There is no spring in the fourth cavity.

(7) Place the rollers in position on the pressure plate.

(8) Place the cover over the rollers and springs, with the aligning mark on the cover over the marked lug of the pressure plate.

(9) Install the three-legged spider over the center screw with the legs contacting the cover midway between the eye bolt holes.

(10) Install the thrust washer and compression nut. While tightening the nut, guide the eye bolts through the cover and guide the cover over the pressure plate lugs. Also make certain that the rollers are free to move in their slots. Tighten the compression nut until the cover contacts the base of the fixture.

(11) Apply fixture clamps at each cover retainer bolt hole to hold the assembly to the fixture.

MyMopar.com

6-6 CLUTCH

Fig. 6—Adjusting Clutch Release Levers

45x453 b. Installation

Soak a new bushing in engine oil prior to installation.

(1) Remove the nut and cup from installing and burnishing Tool C-3181.

(2) Place the new bushing on the tool shaft and drive the bushing flush with the end of the crankshaft. Use a soft hammer to prevent damage to the tool.

(3) To remove the driver, install the cup and nut.

As the nut is tightened, the tool will burnish the bushing.

(4) Insert a small amount of wheel bearing lubricant ahead of the bushing. Remove as much of the lubricant as is possible with one finger. The forward edge of the bushing will retain a sufficient amount of lubricant.

(12) Turn the eye bolt nuts down the eye bolts, flush with ends of the bolts. This is a temporary position.

(13) Remove the compression nut, washer and spider and push each lever down several times to be sure that the levers are seated properly.

(14) To adjust the release levers, install tool spacer C-585-19 on the fixture center screw, then lever compression plate C-585-36, flat side down.

Install the thrust washer and compression nut and tighten the nut (Fig. 6).

(15) Adjust the eye bolt nuts until the feeler blades have the same drag or feel while being pushed in or pulled out.

(16) After all levers are adjusted, recheck the drag of the feeler blades before staking the eye bolt and nuts.

(17) Remove the clutch from the fixture.

CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING

The clutch release bearing is a prelubricated sealed thrust bearing. I t should not be submerged in solvents. The bearing should turn freely, when held in the hands, with no evidence of roughness.

(1) To install the bearing on the sleeve, support the sleeve on the press bed.

(2) Align the bearing with the sleeve and hold the old bearing on the new one.

(3) Bring the ram into contact with the old bearing and apply sufficient pressure to seat the new bearing on the shoulder on the sleeve. Rotate the bearing when installing.

TRANSMISSION MAIN DRIVE PINION

PILOT BUSHING

See Paragraph "Cleaning, Inspection and Testing,"

Step 4, for testing the size of the pilot bushing. a. Removal

(1) Position the outer portion of Tool C-3181 in contact with the button on the end of the center screw.

(2) Thread the outer portion of the tool tightly into the bushing.

(3) Turn the center screw in through the outer portion to remove the bushing.

TORQUE SHAFT AND BEARINGS a. Removal

(1) Remove the spring clip and pedal rod from the torque shaft lever (Fig. 2 ) .

(2) Remove the clutch fork pull-back spring.

(3) Remove the spring clip and clutch release fork rod from the torque shaft lever.

(4) Remove the torque shaft support bracket attaching bolts.

(5) Pull the torque shaft away from the stud on the engine assembly and remove the two bearings.

(6) Remove the retainer and bracket from the torque shaft and remove the two bearings. b. Clecming and Inspection

(1) Clean all parts in kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvent. Remove all grease from the inside of the torque shaft.

MyMopar.com

CLUTCH 6-7

(2) The two ball studs should be bright and without scratches, ridges or other surface imperfections.

(3)

The inner surfaces of the bearings should also be smooth, without surface scratches or embedded foreign material. The wear pattern should be

uniform over the entire surface.

12 c.

InstaDotfoa

(1) F i l l the torque shaft with chassis lubricant and coat the bearings and ball studs with the same lubricant.

(2) Install bearings on the bracket ball stud and force the bearings into the torque shaft far enough to install the retainer.

(3) Install bearings on the engine assembly ball stud and force the torque shaft over the bearings.

(4) Position the torque shaft support bracket. Install the bolts and tighten securely.

(5) Connect the clutch release fork rod and the spring clip.

(6) Install the clutch fork pull-back spring.

(7) Connect the pedal rod and install the spring clip.

(8) Adjust

the clutch pedal free play.

6. CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT

W h e n performing adjustments or repairs that involve removing the clutch housing, it will be necess a r y to align the face of the housing parallel with that of the cylinder block when assembling.

To correctly align the clutch housing, proceed as follows:

(1)

Mount Tool C-870 with a dial indicator Tool

C-435 on the flywheel.

Fig.

7—Measuring Clutch Housing

Bore

Fig.

8

—Offset

Dowel

Orientation Diagrams

(2) W i t h the flywheel turning Tool C-771, crank the engine while noting dial indicator needle deflection. Out of-round of bore must not exceed .008 maximum total indicator reading (See F i g . 7 ) .

If the bore runout is in excess of .008 inch total indicator reading proceed with correction as follows:

To illustrate the recommended correction procedure, assume that the total indicator reading is

.020 inch, in a direction which approximates 2 o'clock on engine block ( F i g . 8 ) .

In this case, the housing is off crankshaft centerline .010 inch (one-half total indicator reading) which is .006 inch greater than the allowable limit of .004 (one-half total indicator reading).

In the case under consideration, use of the .007 inch offset dowels (pair) will bring the runout well within the allowable limits of .008 i n c h : or .008 inch minus .007 inch (offset dowels) equals .001 inch runout. Dowels must be used in pairs (same part numb e r ) .

(3) To install the dowel pins ( p a i r ) , remove the clutch housing after disconnecting and removing the starting motor). Remove the dowel pins from the engine block. Select eccentric dowels (pair) which are available with the following amount of offset:

.007" (No. 1736347), .014" (No. 1736348), .021"

(No. 1736353).

The amount of eccentricity of the dowel will produce a total indicator reading change of double the dowel eccentricity, therefore, a pair of dowels with the nearest to V2 of the total indicator runout of the bore. F o r runout (total indicator reading) of .012" through .020", use a .007" dowel ( P / N 1736347),

.022" through .034", use .014" dowel ( P / N

1736348), and .036" through .052", use .021" dowel

( P / N 1736353).

(4) Install both dowels with the slots parallel and aligned in the direction to correct the bore run-

MyMopar.com

6-8

CLUTCH out. (Slot indicates the direction of maximum dowel eccentricity.) Both dowels must be inserted into the engine block, up to the-off-set shoulder.

(5) Install and tighten the clutch housing bolts to

50 foot-pounds torque. Remount dial indicator and recheck the bore runout. Small corrections can be made by removing the clutch housing (if necessary) and turning the dowels with a screw driver to shift the housing and bring the bore within limits.

Face Runout

(1) Relocate the dial indicator, as shown in

F i g u r e 9. Rotate the flywheel, using Tool C-771. If the total indicator reading is greater than .003 note the amount of the total indicator reading and the location of the lowest indicator reading (i.e., the point where the indicator a r m or follower is extended the f u r t h e s t ) .

(2) To correct excessive runout, place the proper thickness of shim stock between the clutch housing and the engine block or between the transmission and the clutch housing. A f t e r rechecking the face runout, tighten the housing bolts to 50 footpounds torque. Install clutch as follows:

CLUTCH INSTALLATION

W h e n installing the clutch:

(1) Coat the clutch shaft pilot bushing (in the end of the crankshaft) with medium short fiber wheel bearing lubricant (about a half teaspoon).

Place lubricant in radius at back of bushing.

(2) Clean the surface of the flywheel and the pressure plate thoroughly, making certain that all oil or lubricant has been removed.

(3) Hold the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover

Fig. 9—Measuring Clutch Housing Alignment

Fig. 10—Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor in mounting position, with the springs on the disc damper facing a w a y from the flywheel.

Do not touch disc facing, as clutch chatter may result.

Insert clutch disc aligning Tool C

-360

through hub of disc and into the pilot bushing, as shown in F i g ure 10. (If Tool C-360 is not available, use a spare transmission drive pinion clutch shaft.)

(4) Insert the clutch cover attaching bolts (after aligning balance punch marks) but do not draw down.

(5)

To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, the bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time (alternately) until they are all tight. Tighten the bolts.

Refer to Specifications. Remove the Tool C-360 or pinion shaft if used.

(6) Inspect the clutch release bearing. If noisy, rough or dry, press off the old bearing and install a new one. P a c k the recess in the sleeve (directly behind the bearing) with short fibre wheel lubricant. Coat the fork contact surfaces on the sleeve and the pivot ball w i t h short fibre wheel lubricant.

Slide the bearing and sleeve up into position, engaging the springs on the sleeve with the fork. B E

SURE T H E SPRINGS HAVE LATERAL F R E E -

DOM.

W h e n installing the transmission, D O N O T

L U B R I C A T E T H E P I L O T S H A F T O R T H E

C L U T C H S P L I N E S . T h i s area must be kept dry.

(7) Install the transmission by guiding into position with pilot studs Tool C-730. Care should be taken in order not to bend the clutch disc by allowing the transmission to hang. Support the transmission with a suitable jack, then slide into place and secure with bolts.

(8) A d j u s t the clutch linkage. See Paragraph

" C l u t c h Adjustment in the Vehicle."

MyMopar.com

Condition

Clutch Chatter

Clutch Slipping

Difficult Gear Shifting

Clutch Noisy

CLUTCH 6-9

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Worn or damaged disc assembly.

(b) Grease or oil on disc facings.

(a) Replace the disc assembly.

(b) Replace the disc facing or disc assembly.

(c) Improperly adjusted cover assembly. (c) Remove and recondition.

(a) Burned, worn, or oil soaked facings.

(b) Insufficient pedal free play.

(c) Weak or broken pressure springs.

(a) Replace the facings or disc assembly.

(b) Adjust the release fork rod.

(c) Recondition the cover assembly.

(a) Excessive pedal free play.

(b) Worn or damaged disc assembly.

(a) Adjust the release fork rod.

(b) Replace the disc assembly.

(c) Improperly adjusted cover assembly. (c) Remove and recondition.

(d) Clutch disc splines sticking. (d) Remove the disc assembly and free up splines or replace the disc.

(a) Dry clutch linkage.

(b) Worn release bearing.

(c) Worn disc assembly.

(a) Lubricate where necessary.

(b) Replace the release bearing.

'(c)

Replace the facings or disc assembly.

(d) Worn release levers. (d) Recondition the cover assembly.

(e) Worn or dry pilot bushing. (e) Recondition the cover assembly.

(f) Dry contact-pressure plate lugs in (f)

Lubricate very lightly. cover.

MyMopar.com

COOLING SYSTEM 7-1

GftOUP 7

COOLING SYSTEM

CONTENTS

Page

Data and Specifications.

1

Engine Water Temperature Gauge.

8

Pressure Testing Cooling System

8

Radiator. 5

Radiator Pressure Cap • • •

7

Reverse Flushing the Cooling System

6

Service Diagnosis

8

Silent

Flite

Fan Drive. 3

Testing Radiator Cap • • •

7

Thermostat 7

Transmission Oil Cooler •

6

Water Pump

3

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

Model

SC-l, SC-2

SC

-3, SY-1 SC-2—C-3O0H

Capacity

With Heater 17 qts. 17 qts. 17 qts.

Without Heater. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 qts. 18 qts. 16 qts.

Radiator Type . Tube & Spacer Tube & Spacer Tube & Spacer

Transmission Oil Cooler

T y p e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Concentric Tube Concentric Tube Concentric Tube

L o c a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rad. Bottom Tank Rad. Bottom Tank Rad. Bottom Tank

Radiator Pressure Cap

T y p e . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressure Setting. .

Pressure Vent

14

psi std.—

16 psi A.C.

Pressure Vent

14

psi std,—

16 psi A . C .

Pressure Vent

14

psi std.—

16

psi A.C.

MyMopar.com

7-2 COOLING SYSTEM

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

Model SC-l, SC-2 SC-3, SY-1 SC-2—C-300H

Fan

Standard 4 Blade, 18" Dia. 4 Blade, 18* Dia. 7 Blade, 18" Dia.

Air Conditioning. 7 Blade, 18" Dia. 7 Blade, 1 8 D i a . 7 Blade, 18" Dia.

Fluid Fan Drive Type Silicone Fluid Filled, Silicone Fluid Filled, Silicone Fluid Filled,

Speed Modulating Speed Modulating Speed Modulating

(A.C. only) (A.C. only)

Thermostat

Type.. Pellet Pellet Pellet

Setting 180°

F.

180°

F.

180°

F.

Water Pump Type Centrifugal, Centrifugal, Centrifugal,

Ball Bearing Ball Bearing Ball Bearing

Radiator to Fan Clearance.

Yi in. to 1}4 in.

Fan Shroud Type (with air conditioning). . . Box Box Box

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds Torque

Water Pump Bolts 30

Fan Attaching Bolts . 16-18

Thermostat Housing Bolts 30

PULLEY

7 BLADE

18

'/2

INCH

FAN

4 BLADE

18 INCH

FAN

PULLEY

60x72

Fig. 1—Standard Fan Drive (Disassembled View)

FLUID FAN DRIVE

60x74

Fig. 2—Silent Flite Fan Drive (Air Conditioning) and C-300H) Disassembled View

MyMopar.com

COOLING SYSTEM 7-3

GROUP 7

C O O L I N G SYSTEM

The cooling system incorporates a tube and spacer type full flow radiator, and a centrifugal water pump with an 180°F. thermostat. On cars equipped with an air conditioning-heater unit, there is a 16 psi radiator pressure cap, and should be equipped with sufficient permanent type anti-freeze to insure the engine coolant 15°F. in the summer and greater strength of anti-freeze in the winter according to the prevailing temperatures. Models with standard equipment have a 4 blade,

18

inch fan, as shown in Figure

1,

models equipped with air conditioning have 7 blade, WY% inch fan, on the SC3 and SY1,

18

inch fan on the SOI and SC2, as shown in Figure

2. A l l C-300H models have a 7 blade

18

inch diameter fan.

SEHV1CE P i O C E D U l E S

SILENT FLITE FAN DRIVE (Fig. 2)

(All Models with Air Conditioning)

The fan drive consists of a rotor driven by the shaft which is secured to the water pump flange. The rotor is enclosed by the housing to which the fan is bolted.

This housing is mounted on the shaft through permanently sealed bearings.

A nominal clearance space is maintained between the housing and rotor. The housing is partially filled with a silicone fluid and the shear resistance of the fluid between the housing and rotor provides the driving force rotating the fan.

The power required to rotate any fan increases very greatly with speed. The fan drive has been designed to provide the necessary driving force to maintain cooling at low speeds and to limit the top speed of the fan at higher engine speeds, thus making more power available to the wheels and eliminating the fan noise generally encountered at higher engine speeds. gine speed to 1700 rpm and then adjust engine speed until fan blade mark appears stopped by timing light.

(4)

The drive should be replaced i f the engine speed at which the fan appears stopped is below

1600

rpm for SC-3 or SY

-1

air conditioned models or below 1550 rpm for SC-l or SC-2 air conditioned models. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SERVICE THIS

ASSEMBLY.

Excessive Fan Noise

If the fan drive fails to properly limit the top fan speed, excessive fan noise may result. Check as follows :

(1) Observe the engine speed at which the timing light appears to stop the fan as in "Overheating."

(2) The drive should be replaced i f the engine speed at which the fan appears stopped is above

1850 rpm for SC-3 or SY-1 air conditioned models or above 1800 rpm for SC-l and SC-2 air conditioned models. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SERVICE THIS

ASSEMBLY.

Overheating

If the fan drive operates below its minimum design speed, engine overheating may result at low car speeds. Test as follows:

(1) The cooling system must be at room temperature for testing.

(2) Mark the fan blade with white or yellow chalk or crayon.

(3) Attach a timing light to the engine. Set en-

WATER PUMP a. Removal from Vehicle (Fig. 3)

(1) Drain the cooling system. (Remove the upper half of fan shroud on A i r Conditioning models only.)

(2) Loosen the power steering pump, idler pulley and alternator and remove all belts.

MyMopar.com

7-4 COOLING SYSTEM

BOLT—""""^

LOCK-

WASHER

GASKET

OUTLET ELBOW

THERMOSTAT

TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

IMPELLER

SEAL

/ RETAINING WASHER

FAN PULLEY HUB

SHAFT AND

j

BODY BEARING j

NOTE: The shaft and bearing assembly do not have to be removed to service a leaking pump.

(3) The shaft and bearing assembly should be very carefully inspected to be sure the pump leak has not damaged the bearing.

(4)

I n removing the impeller and seal, support the pump assembly so that pressure is applied to the shaft. The bearing and shaft will be damaged i f pressure is applied to the pump body.

(5)

Support the body on the fan hub end and press out the shaft and bearing assembly.

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER * * * * * W'1

HOUSING GASKET

7

^

N 1

GASKET BOLT AND LOCKWASHER 58x233

Fig. 3—Water Pump Assembly (Disassembled View)

(3) Eemove the fan, spacer and pulley.

On Air

Conditioning models, remove the pulley from the water pump fan hub. Loosen all nuts from the fan to remove the fan drive.

(4)

. Eemove the bolts holding the water pump body to the housing and remove the water pump.

CAUTION

The shaft and bearing- assembly can be removed only in the direction described. I f an attempt is made to remove the shaft in the opposite direction, damage to the water pump body will result.

NOTE: The bearing and hub assemblies removed from water pumps for any reason should not be used again because damage to bearings and hub usually results during removal.

(6) Clean all parts thoroughly. Inspect the condition of the seal seat and recondition, i f necessary, using refacing Tool C

-551. b. Disassembly (Fig. 3)

(1)

Support the pump body on the hub and remove the impeller by breaking the plastic away from the metal inserts, as shown in Figure 4.

(2) Remove the impeller metal insert using Tool

C-3476. c. Assembly (Fig.

3)

(1)

Support the pump body as close to the center bore as possible in an arbor press. DO NOT SUP-

PORT THE BODY ON ATTACHING FACE, OR ON

SEAL SEAT.

(2) Press the shaft and bearing assembly into the body, using Tool C-3468, as shown in Figure 5.

SHAFT AND BEARING

ASSEMBLY

PRESS

SHAFT AND BEARING

— SLEEVE (TOOL!

BODY

PLASTIC IMPELLER^ ' L ^ k

,.56x142,

Fig. 4—Removing the Plastic Impeller

PIPE 57x137

Fig. 5— Installing Shaft and Bearing Assembly

Using Tool C-346B

MyMopar.com

COOLING SYSTEM 7-5

N O T ! : The .090 inch dimension must be maintained when installing a new shaft and bearing assembly, as shown in F i g u r e

5.

The undercut on the tool does not control the

.090

inch dimension. pulley, and attach the assembly to the water pump).

(3)

Tighten the nuts to

15

foot-pounds torque.

Install the upper half of f a n shroud, run the engine, and check for leaks.

(3)

Install the new seal assembly into the impeller with the ears of the retaining washer engaged

In the slots of the impeller.

(4) Support the pump body on the shaft in an

•arbor press and press the impeller on the shaft with sleeve Tool C-3468

(.625

inch

I D . )

and

(.750

inch

O.D.) that will apply pressure on the metal insert only.

CAUTION

RADIATOR

The transmission oil cooler is located in the bottom of the pan in the radiator tank, which is an integral part of the radiator. T h e bottom of the radiator tank, therefore, acts in the capacity of a heat exchanger in that the oil flowing from the torque converter is directed through a tube into the bottom of the radiator pan, coming out on the opposite side of the radiator to be returned to the torque converter.

When pressing on the impeller, support the pump body so that pressure is applied to the shaft and not the pump body. I f pressure is applied to the pump body, damage to bearings will result. Press the impeller on evenly to prevent breakage. a . Removal

(5) Install the fan hub while supporting the pump body on the impeller and on the shaft, as this will apply pressure to the end of shaft, and not to the body. Maintain .330 inch dimension, as shown in

F i g u r e

6. d. Installation on Vehicle

(1)

D r a i n the cooling system.

(2) Remove the two oil cooler connections at the bottom of the radiator (if so equipped).

(3) D r a i n the oil from the transmission oil cooler.

4) Remove the radiator hoses, fan shroud (on

A i r Conditioning models only) and radiator support bolts.

(1) Install the water pump body on the housing, using a new gasket.

(2) Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

Install the pulley, spacer and fan. (On A i r Conditioning models, assemble the fan to the fan drive and

(5) Remove the radiator, bt Cleaning

(1)

D r a i n the cooling system and refill with clean

S O F T water and add the contents of one can (No.

1 top-compartment) of MoPar Cooling System Cleaner.

(2) Operate the engine at a fast idle for % to % hour.

(3) D r a i n the cooling system * and refill with clean water.

( 4 )

Pour the conditioner (No. 2 bottom-compartment) into the radiator and run engine for ten minutes.

5) F l u s h the entire cooling system until water runs clean.

(6)

Refill the radiator with clean S O F T water.

(7) Use MoPar Radiator R u s t Inhibitor during the summer months.

57x143

Fig.

8 —Water Pump (Schematic Drawing) c. Installation

(1)

A t t a c h the radiator to the radiator support bolts and reconnect the two oil cooler connections.

(2) Install the f a n shroud (if so equipped), connect the hoses and refill the cooling system. Check for leaks.

MyMopar.com

7-6 COOLING SYSTEM

(3) Add sufficient oil to the transmission to refill the system.

NOTE: Clearance from the outside edge of fan blade to radiator core should be

Vt

inch to IVi inch.

TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER

In case of leak, engine coolant may become mixed with the transmisson fluid, also, the transmission fluid may enter the cooling system. Roth the cooling system and the transmission should be checked in case the cooler is leaking.

(9) Fill the cooling system.

I f the transmission operates properly after repairing the leak, drain the transmission and torque converter while hot, remove the transmission oil pan and inspect for sludge, rust, dirty or plugged inlet screen. I f none of these conditions are found, reconditioning may not be necessary. Reassemble, using Transmission Fluid Type "A", Suffix "A".

REVERSE FLUSHING THE COOLING SYSTEM

Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure, in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water. a. Testing Oil Cooler for Leaks tor.

(1) Disconnect both oil cooler lines at the radia-

(2) Connect a pressure gauge to one cooler connection and a shut off valve to the other. Close the valve.

(3) Connect a source of air pressure to the valve.

(4) Coat all fittings with oil.

(5) Open valve and apply (up to 100 psi) air pressure. Oil bubbles will identify any fitting joint leaks.

Repair all joint leaks.

(6)

Close the valve. Gauge reading will then drop if cooler is leaking. b. Repairing Oil Cooler in the Radiator

(1) Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

(2) Remove the radiator lower tank.

(3) Fill the lower tank with water and test the cooler. The leak may be in such position that it can be repaired (use silver solder) without removing the cooler from the tank. I f repair is made, remove the excess solder and neutralize the flux. Blow the water out of cooler thoroughly. a. Flushing Cylinder Block

(1) Drain the radiator and remove the hoses at the radiator.

(2) Remove the thermostat and reinstall the thermostat housing.

(3) Install flushing gun Tool C-311, or other suitable flushing gun to the inlet hose.

(4) Connect the water hose of the gun to a pressure water source and the air hose of gun to a pressure air source.

(5) Turn on the water, and when the cylinder block is filled, turn on the air in short blasts.

(6) Allow the cylinder block to fill between the blasts of air.

(7) Continue this procedure until the water runs clean. Check the thermostat and i f satisfactory, reinstall ; otherwise, replace.

(8) Use a new thermostat housing gasket. Refill the cooling system and check for leaks. c. Replacing Oil Cooler on Radiator

(1) Melt the soft solder holding cooler to the tank.

(2) Remove the spring washers holding the cooler connectors to the tank and remove the cooler.

(3) Position the new cooler in the tank and apply the spring washers on the connectors.

(4) Use soft solder to hold the cooler in the tank.

(5) Test for leaks.

(6) Remove excess solder and neutralize the flux.

(7) Attach the lower tank (soft solder).

(8) Install the radiator, connect oil lines to the cooler. b. Reverse Flushing Radiator

(1) Drain the cooling system and remove the hoses from the engine.

(2) Install a flushing gun Tool C-311, or other suitable flushing gun in the radiator lower outlet neck.

(3) Fill the radiator and turn on the air in short blasts.

NOTE: Do not apply more than 15 psi pressure when pressure flushing radiator, as damage to the radiator may result.

(4) Continue this procedure until the water runs clean. Refill the cooling system.

(5) Run the engine and check for leaks.

MyMopar.com

COOLING SYSTEM 7-7

Fig, 7—Thermostat Assembly strip, in a container of water. Make sure the thermostat does not touch the sides or bottom of the container.

(4) Heat the water (stir i t coninuously to insure uniform temperature) and note the water temperature at which the thermostat falls off the feeler strip. Do not touch the sides or bottom of the container with the thermometer. The thermostat should drop off at a water temperature of approximately

170° to 185°. I f i t is outside of this range discard the thermostat.

(5) Continue heating the water to approximately

200° F.-The thermostat valve should be open wide at this temperature, i f i t does not, discard i t .

THERMOSTAT

Removal

(1) Drain the cooling system down to the thermostat level or below.

(2) Remove the upper hose from the thermostat housing using pliers Tool C-3250.

(3) Remove the thermostat housing bolts and remove the thermostat and housing.

Installation

(1) Using a new gasket, position the thermostat so the pellet end is toward the engine and attach with bolts through the thermostatic housing.

(2) Fill the cooling system to H/4 inches below filler neck with water and rust resistor or water and anti-freeze as required. Thermostat Testing

(1) Visually inspect the thermostat (Figure 7) to make sure the valve closes tightly. I f the valve does not close completely due to dirt, sand, or other foreign material, clean the valve and seat. I f the valve does not close tightly when clean, install a new thermostat.

(2) Open the valve by hand or by heating in water and insert a Vg" wide strip of .003" feeler stock into the opening and allow the valve to close.

If the feeler stock will not hold in place, discard the thermostat.

(3) Suspend the thermostat, by the feeler stock

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP

Radiators are equipped with a 14 psi cap, as standard equipment and

16

psi with air conditioning, as shown in Figure 8. Always note the identification number on the cap when replacing.

W

7 hen removing the pressure cap, turn counterclockwise to the stop, permitting the built-up pressure to escape through the overflow tube. This will prevent the hot water from spraying out of the radiator filler opening.

WARNING

TESTING RADIATOR CAP

Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter from the kit, Tool C-3499. Slip the seal on the tube

— GASKET j - VALVE

PRESSURE

FILLER

CAP

I

PRESSURE CAP V \

/ r-

ADAPTER > ^ f W ^ f k

OVERFLOW

TUBE —

Fig. 8—Radiator Pressure Cap

>TOOL

57x146

Fig. 9—Checking the Pressure Cap

MyMopar.com

7-8 COOLING SYSTEM at the bottom of the instrument. Then attach either end

of the short adapter to the instrument. Dip the pressure cap in water and apply cap to end of adapter. Working the plunger, as shown in Figure 9, bring the pressure to 14 pounds on the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold the pressure within a range of 12-15 pounds, replace the cap with a new tested cap. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the cap should test between 15-16 psi.

The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap should hang freely. If the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap.

PRESSURE TESTING T H E C O O L I N G S Y S T E M

(1) Wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat clean. The water level should be % inch below neck of the radiator.

(2) Attach the Tester Tool C-3499 to the radiator, as shown in Figure 10 and apply 15 pounds pressure. If the pressure drops inspect all points for external leaks.

W A R N I N G

Pressure builds up fast. Any excessive amount of pressure

built up by continuous engine operation, must be released to a safe pressure point. N E V E R

P E R M I T P R E S S U R E TO E X C E E D 15 Lbs.

(3)

If there are no external leaks, after the gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester and run the engine to operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand. Reattach the tester and pump to

7

lbs. pressure while the engine is running. Race the engine, and if the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak, usually a head gasket.

(4)

Remove the wires from the spark plugs on one band and operate the engine on the opposite cates a leak on the bank still in operation. If the bank. If the needle continues to fluctuate, it indi-

Fig. 10—Checking the Cooling System for Leaks cates a leak on the bank still in operation. If the needle ceases to fluctuate, the leak is in the bank, the combustion has been released from.

(5) If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race the engine a few times and if an abnormal amount of water emits from the exhaust system at the tail pipe, it may indicate a leak that can be a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block, or the cylinder head near the exhaust ports,

(6) If the above pressure test of the cooling system holds the pressure as outlined above, then there is no leak, however, there may be internal leaks which can be determined by removing the oil dipstick and if water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a serious internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled, the leak located and necessary new parts installed.

ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE G A U G E

For removal, Installation and Testing procedures of the water temperature sending and receiving units, refer to "Electrical" Group

8

"Gauges".

SEBVICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition Possible Causes

External Leakage (a) Loose hose clamp.

(b) Hose leaking.

(c) Leaking radiator.

Correction

(a) Replace the hose clamp.

(b) Replace the hose.

(c) Repair or replace the radiator as necessary.

MyMopar.com

Condition

Internal Leakage

Poor Circulation

COOLING SYSTEM 7-9

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Possible Causes Correction

(d) W o m or damaged water pump seal.

(e) Loose core hole plug.

(f) Damaged gasket, or dry gasket, if engine has been stored.

(g) Cylinder head bolts loose, or tightened unevenly.

(h) Leak at heater connection.

(i) Leak at water temperature sending

unit.

(j)

Leak at water pump attaching bolt.

(k)

Leak at exhaust manifold stud.

(!) Cracked thermostat housing.

Cm')

Dented

radiator

inlet or outlet tube.

(n) Leaking heater core,

(o) Cracked or porous water pump housing.

(p) Warped or cracked cylinder head,

(q) Cracked cylinder block,

(r) Sand holes or porous condition in block or head.

(d) Replace the water pump seal. e) Install new core hole plug. f) Replace gaskets as necessary. g) Replace the cylinder head gasket and torque head in proper sequence. h) Clean the heater connections and replace the hoses and clamps if necessary. i)

Tighten the water temperature sending unit. j ) Tighten the water pump attaching bolts 30 foot-pounds torque. k) Tighten the exhaust manifold stud nuts 30 foot-pounds torque.

1) Replace the thermostat housing. m) Straighten the radiator inlet or outlet tube as necessary. n) Repair or replace the heater core. o) Replace the water pump assembly. p) Replace the cylinder head, q)

Replace the cylinder block, r) Replace the cylinder block or cylinder head as necessary.

{%) Faulty head gasket. i 'b) Refer to causes (f) to (j; listed under External Leakage.

(c) Crack in head into valve compartment.

(d) Cracked valve port.

(e,, Crack in block into push rod compartment,

(f) Cracked cylinder wall. a) Install a new head gasket. b) Refer to corrections (f) to (j) listed under External Leakage. c) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head. d) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head. e) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block. f) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.

(a) Low

coolant

level,

(b) Collapsed radiator hose. (A bottom hose with defective spring may collapse only at high engine speeds.)

(c) F a n belt glazed,

oil

soaked,

or

• loose.

(d)

Air

leak through loose

or

faulty bottom hose.

(e) Faulty thermostat.

(f) Water pump impeller broken or loose on shaft. a) Fill radiator to correct level. b) Replace the hose and spring as necessary. c) Tighten or replace the fan belt as necessary. d ) Replace the hose. e) Replace the thermostat. f) Replace the water pump, internal parts.

MyMopar.com

7-10 COOLING SYSTEM

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Condition Possible Causes Correction

(g)

Restricted radiator core water passages.

(h) Restricted engine water jacket.

(g) Flush the radiator thoroughly.

00 Flush the engine cooling system thoroughly.

Overheating or Apparent (a) Low coolant level.

Overheating (Refer to

Causes Listed under

"Poor Circulation")

(b) Blocked radiator air passages.

(a) Fill radiator to proper level.

(b) Blow out the radiator air passages.

(c) Incorrect ignition timing.

(d)

Low engine oil level.

(e) Incorrect valve timing.

(f) Inaccurate temperature gauge.

(g)

Restricted overflow tube.

(c) Time the engine ignition system.

(d) Add engine oil to the correct level.

(e) Correct the engine valve timing.

(f) Replace the temperature gauge.

(g) Remove restriction from the overflow tube.

(h) Faulty radiator pressure cap or (h) Replace the radiator cap. seat.

(i) Frozen heat control valve. (i) Free up the manifold heat control valve.

(j) Dragging brakes.

(k) Excessive engine idling.

(1) Frozen coolant.

(m) Faulty fluid fan drive.

(j) Adjust the brakes.

(k) Stop engine.

(1) Thaw out cooling system, add antifreeze as required.

(m) Replace the fluid fan drive assembly.

Overflow Loss (a) Refer to causes listed under "Poor (a) Refer to corrections under 'Poor

Circulation and Overheating." Circulation and Overheating."

(b) Overfilling. (b) Adjust coolant to the correct level.

(c) Coolant foaming due to insufficient (c) Flush the radiator and add MoPar corrosion inhibitor. anti-freeze or rust inhibitor as required.

Corrosion (a) Leak at lower radiator hose. (a) Tighten or install a new hose.

(b) Use of water containing large con(b) Use only clean soft water. centration of lime and minerals.

(c) Low coolant level.

(d) Insufficient corrosion inhibitor.

(c) Fill the cooling system to the correct level.

(d) Use MoPar anti-freeze or rust inhibitor as required.

(e) Use of anti-freeze for extended length of time.

(e) Drain cooling system and replace with new anti-freeze.

(f) Failure to use corrosion inhibitor (f) Flush radiator and refill with clean in summer. soft water and rust inhibitor.

Temperature Too Low— (a) Faulty thermostat.

Slow Engine Warm Up (b) Inaccurate temperature gauge.

(a) Replace the thermostat.

(b) Replace the temperature gauge.

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES 7A-1

GROUP 7A

ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES

CONTENTS

Page

Belt Deflection Method 3

Proper Belt Tension • 2

Service Diagnosis 3

Torque Method 2

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE METHOD

Torque (Foot-Pounds) to be

Applied

to Components

ALL MODELS

Accessory Belt in Use New Belt

Power Steering Bracket. 45 45

Alternator

With Air Conditioning. . 40 60

Without Air Conditioning. SC1-SC2 40* 60*

SC3-SY1 30* 40*

Fan Idler Bracket. 35 50

*XOTE: The torque wrench assumes a different position according to the model, when adjusting the belt tension.

BELT DEFLECTION METHOD

Detection (Inches) to be Applied at Midpoint of Belt Segment Under a 5 Pound Load. (See Figure 1.)

ALL MODELS

Accessory Belt in Use New Belt

Power Steering He H$

Fan Beit—Idler.

Vs ' He

Alternator—Without A/C* M H

With A/C*.

Vs H

*A/C—Air Conditioning

MyMopar.com

7A-2 ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES

GHOUP 7A

ACCESSOHY BELT DHIVES

SERVICE PROCEDURES

PROPER

BELT

TENSION There are two methods by which belt tensions can be properly established:

The satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories (Fig. 1) depends on the maintenance of the proper belt tension. I f the specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage may cause engine overheating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced alternator charging rates, and greatly reduced belt life. To avoid any such adverse effects, the following service procedure should be followed:

(1) Adjust all belts to the specified "belt in use" * tension at new car preparation,

(2) Readjust all belts as part of the "during warranty inspection."

(3) Test all belt tensions by the deflection method at servicing and retighten i f needed.

(4) The new belt tension specifications should be used on all belt replacements, and the above procedure followed thereafter.

TORQUE METHOD

All alternator and power steering pump belts can be tightened to the specified tension (see Data and

Specifications) by use of a torque wrench. The power steering belts are tightened by using Tool C-

3832 and torque wrench Tool C-3005 (Fig. 2). The alternator belts are tensioned by using a special Tool

C-3841 and torque wrench Tool C-3005 (Figs 3 and

4.) The special tool should be hooked at the heavilyribbed section of the alternator rectifier end shield.

Other belts can also be tightened by this method i f the adjusting bracket has a square hole. To tighten belts by the torque method, loosen all mounting bolts and apply the specified torque to the accessory or idler. Tighten all mounting bolts while the torque is applied to the accessory. I f i t is not possible to use the torque wrench because of clearance, use an extension.

A C — A i r Conditioning

W P - ~ W a t e i Pump

CS

—

Crankshaft

PS—Power Steering

Fig. 1—Belt Deflection Location

60x244A

I

—

Idler

A—Alternator

MyMopar.com

ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES 7A-3

Fig.

3— Alternator Belt Adjustment, SC-l SC-2

Fig.

2— Power Steering Pump Belt Adjustment

BELT DEFLECTION METHOD

All belts can also be tightened by measuring the deflection of the belt at the mid-point between two pulleys under a five-pound push or pull. A small spring scale can be used to establish the five-pound load. See Figure 1 for correct location at which to measure deflection.

This method should be used only when it is not possible to use the torque method. To tension the belts by the deflection method, loosen all mounting bolts and use a bar to apply tensions to the belts being careful not to damage the accessory. A V<> inch square drive hinge handle can be used i f the accessory has a square hole. Tighten the mounting bolts and check the deflection. 'See Data and Specifications.) I t may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to establish the correct tension.

* Any belt that has operated for a minimum of a half-hour is considered a "belt in use". Fig. 4—Alternator Belt Adjustment SC -3, SY-1

SEE?ICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Insufficient Accessory Output Due (a) Belt too lose. (a) Adjust belt.tension. to Belt Slippage (b) Belt excessively glazed or worn, (b) Replace and tighten as specified.

MyMopar.com

7A-4

ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Condition

Belt Squeal when Accelerating

Engine

Belt Squeak at Idle

Belt Rolled Over i n Groove

Belt Jumps Off

Possible Cause

(a) Belts too loose.

(b) Belts glazed.

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Dirt and paint imbedded in belt.

(c) Non-uniform belt.

(d) Misaligned pulleys.

(e) Non-uniform groove or eccentric pulley.

(a) Broken cord in belt.

(b) Belts not matched (A

/C).

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Belts not matched (A

/C).

(c) Misaligned pulleys.

Correction

(a) Adjust belt tensions.

(b) Replace belts.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Replace belt.

(c) Replace belt.

(d)

Align accessories (file brackets or use spacers as required).

(e) Replace pulley.

(a) Replace belt.

(b) Install matched belts.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Install matched belts.

(c) Align accessories.

MyMopar.com

EI^CTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-1

GROUP

8

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

CONTENTS

BATTERY

Page

Battery Charging. 9

Data and Specifications. 3

Gravity Test. 8

High Rate Discharge T e x t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . — 9

Service Diagnosis • • • 78

Visual I n s p e c t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • 8

Voltage Test • • 9

STARTING MOTOR (DIRECT DRIVE)

Circuit Tests. . . 12

Brushes. 16

Data and Specifications 44

Drive Gear Clearance.... 17

Drive Unit. . . . . . . . . • . . 16

Field Coils. 16

Service Diagnosis ' 79

Starting Motor Removal and Installation. 12

STARTING MOTOR REDUCTION GEAR TYPE)

Brushes and Springs 23

Data and Specifications . . . . . . 4

Field Coils «. 23

Ground Circuit Test 17

Resistance and Current Draw 17

Service Diagnosis 79

Starter Clutch U n i t . . . 23

Starting Motor Removal and Installation. • • • 19

ALTERNATOR

Alternator Removal and Installation . . 31

Alternator Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Data and Specifications— . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Service Diagnosis 81

Testing the Rectifiers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Voltage Regulator 27

MyMopar.com

8-2 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

CONTENTS—CONT'D.

IGNITION SYSTEM

Page

Breaker and Spring Tension 46

Distributor Advance 46

Distributor Removal and Installation • .. • 41

Dwell Variation — . . . . — 41

Idle RPM Test. 40

Ignition C o i l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Ignition Timing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Resistance Test , 40

Secondary Circuit Inspection. ... 39

Service Diagnosis 83

Spark Plugs. ..' 47

LIGHTING SYSTEM

Calibration 49

Dual Headlamps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Headlamp A d j u s t i n g . . . . . . • • 50

Headlamp A i m i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Headlamp Replacement • . • 51

Service Diagnosis 84

Testing Headlamp A i m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

HORNS

Adjusting Horn " A " and "B".

51

Service Diagnosis 85

Testing. 51

ELECTRIC L O C H N G DOOHS

Solenoid Removal and Installation.

1

. . 52

ELECTHIC WINDOW LIFTS

Removal and I n s t a l l a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Service Diagnosis 85

POWER SEATS

Drive Unit and Solenoid Assembly • 56

Flexible Cables • 54

Front Seat and Adjuster Removal and Installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Motor Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . 55

Operation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - . . . . . 54

Service Diagnosis - 86

Slave Unit. 57

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL A N D INSTRUMENTS 8-3

CONTENTS—CONT'D.

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

Page

Service Diagnosis

89

Windshield Wipers—Removal and Installation

59

Wiper Blade Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

57

Wiper Motor Disassembly —

59

Wiper Switch

60

ELECTROLUMINESCENT LIGHTING. INSTRUMENTS,

GAUGES AND DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS

Directional Switch

67

Headlamp S w i t c h . . . . . . . . .

66

Ignition S w i t c h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

67

Instrument Cluster and Speedometer

Head

Removal and Installation

62

Operation.

62

Service Diagnosis

90

Windshield Wiper and Washer Switch •

66

THERMAL TYPE GAUGES

Engine Temperature Sending Unit

70

Fuel Level Indicating S y s t e m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

69

Gas Tank U n i t . . .

69

Operation.

69

Oil Pressure Sending Unit.

70

Service Diagnosis

91

Temperature Indicating S y s t e m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

WIRING DIAGRAMS

Six Way Seat Adjusting 71

Body and Dome Lamp (Except Town and Country) (Chrysler; 71

Body and Dome Lamp (Town and Country) (Chrysler) . . . 72

Body and Dome Lamp (Imperial) 72

Electric Window Lift (Chrysler) • • • 73

Electric Window Lift (Imperial) • • 74

Instrument Panel (Chrysler; 75

Instrument Panel (Imperial) . . . 76

Engine

Compartment (Chrysler

and

I m p e r i a l ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

77

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

BATTERY

Standard

Voltage. 12 Volts.

Capacity.

70

Amp. Hour

Ground Terminal Negative

Number

of

P l a t e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13

Model. .Auto-Lite

12HB-70B

Willard

MB-27-70

MyMopar.com

84 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

STARTING MOTOR

DIRECT DRIVE

Models S C - L SC-2 with Manual Transmission

Part Number. 1889200

Make. Chrysler

Voltage.... 12

No. of Fields.

4

No. of Poles . .

4

Brushes 4

Spring Tension . . . 32 to 48 ounces

Drive Solenoid Shift

Overrunning Clutch

End Play .005" Minimum

Free-Running Test

Voltage. 11

Amperage Draw 78 Amps. Maximum

Minimum Speed rpm 3800 rpm

Stall Torque Test

Torque Foot-Pounds . . . 8.5

Voltage.

4

Amperage Draw

\

350

Pinion to Housing Clearance .

y% plus or minus \tf

Between Pinion Stop and End of Pinion

Solenoid Switch

Pull-in Coil 20.0-22.2 Amps. @ 6 volts

Hold-in Coil. 11.2-12.4 Amps. @ 6 volts

STARTING MOTOR

(REDUCTION G E A R TYPE)

MODELS S C - L SC-2, SY-1 (With Automatic Transmfesion)

Chrysler Part No..

2095150

Make Chrysler Built

Voltage 12

No. of Fields.

4

No. of P o l e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Brushes.

4

Spring Tension 32 to 48 ounces

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . Overrunning Clutch

End Play. .010-.035"

Free-Running Test

Voltage 11

Amperage Draw 85

Minimum Speed rpm 1950

MyMopar.com

^ ;

t

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-5

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

STARTING MOTOR (REDUCTION GEAR TYPE)

Stall Torque Test

Torque Foot-Pounds. . . . 24.0

Voltage. 4

Amperage Draw . . . . . . 475

Solenoid Switch

Pull-in C o i l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.4-18.0 Amps. @ 0.0 volte

Hold-in Coil. 11.5-12.6 Amps. © 6.0 volts

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

ALTERNATOR

Special Equipment Special Equipment

Standard Equipment Heavy Duty Air Conditioning

Rated Output 35 Amperes 40 Amperes 40 Amperes

Voltage 12 Volts 12 Volts 12 Volts

Alternator Pulley Diameter. . . 2.75 in. 2.75 in. 3.00 in.

Single Groove Single Groove Twin Groove

Brushes..

2 2 2

Condenser C a p a c i t y . . . . . . . . . . .158 microfarad .158 microfarad .158 microfarad

(min.) (min.) (min.)

Field Coil Draw.

2.3 amperes minimum to 2.7 amperes maximum at 12 volts, rotating alternator by hand; or 3.00 amperes minimum to 3.50 amperes maximum at 15 volts at 70 degrees

Fahrenheit, alternator operating at 750 rpm.

Current Output (Minimum at

15 volts; 1250 Engine rpm

Cold) (Plus or minus 3 amperes allowed) 35 Amperes 39 Amperes 39 Amperes

ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Alternator Voltage

Regulator N u m b e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2098300

Volts 12

Ground Polarity. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Negative

Point Gap .015

inch plus or minus .001

inch

Air Gap .048

to .052

inch

Measure gap with gauge back of stop.

Contacts close with .052

inch gauge installed. Contacts open with .048

inch gauge installed.

Temperature in Degrees 75° 95° 118° 140°

Minimum Setting 13.7 to 13.6 to 13.5 to 13.4 to

Maximum Setting 14.8

142 14.1 14.0

MyMopar.com

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D*

IGNITION SYSTEM

Model Number . 2095836 (Chrysler Built) 2095841 (without Tachometer) 2095987 (Chrysler Built)

2098313 (with Tachometer)

Autolite Built and (both with

Double Breaker)

Engine Model 361, 383 cubic inch 413 cubic inch 413 cubic inch

Vehicle Model SC-l, SC-2 (with 2 bbl. Carb.) SC-2-300H (with 4 b b l Carb.) SC-3, SY-1 (with 4 bbl. Carb.)

Advance—Automatic (Distributor

Degrees at Distributor rpm) 0° © 250 to 450 0° © 325 to 475 0° © 310 to 490

0 t o 2 ° @ 4 5 0 0 t o 4 . 0 ° @ 4 7 5 0 t o 2 ° ® 4 9 0

2.5 to 4.5° @ 700 4.5 to 6.5° @ 640 3.5 to 5.5° © 800

10.5 to 12.5 © 2150 9 to 11° © 2400 8.5 to 10.5° @ 2300

Advance-Vacuum (Distributor

Degrees at inches of M e r c u r y ) . . . . . . . . . 0° @ 4.5" to 8" 0° @ 7.2 to 8.9" 0° © 6" to 9"

6 to 9° © 12" 4.5 to 7.5° © 12" 4.5 to 7.5° @ 12"

11.5 to 14.5° © 16.5" 7.5 to 10.5° © 14.5" 8.3 to 11° © 15"

Breaker Point Gap .014" to .019" .014" to .019" .014" to .019"

Dwell Angle 27° to 32° 27° to 32° (one set Points) 27° to 32°

34° to 40° (both sets Points)

Breaker Arm Spring T e n s i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21.5 oz. 17 to 21.5 oz. 17 to 21.5 oz.

Timing 10° BTC 10° ETC 10° BTC

Condenser Capacity .25 to .285 mfd. .25 to .285 mfd. .25 to .285 mfd.

Shaft Side Play .000" to .003"* .000" to .003"* .000" to .003"*

Shaft End Play (After A s s e m b l y ) . . . . . . . . . . .003" to .010" .003" to .010" .003" to .010"

Rotation Counter-Clockwise Counter-Cloekwise Counter-Clockwise

Spark Plugs J-12Y Champion A-32 Auto-Lite J-12Y Champion

Size 14 M M — % Reach 14 M M — % Reach 14 M M — % Reach

Gap.... .035 inch .035 inch .035 inch

Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Coil Chrysler Auto-Lite Chrysler Essex

1688212 200567 2095223 62-160-2

Primary Resistance © 70°-80° F 1.65-1.79 ohms 1.41-1.55 ohms

Secondary Resistance © 70°-80° F 9400-11700 ohms 9200-10600 ohms

Ballast Resistor.. 2095501 2095501 2095501

Resistance © 70°-80° F.

0.5-0.6 ohms 0.5-0.6 ohms 0.5-0.6 ohms

Current Draw (Coil and Ballast Resistor in Circuit)

Engine Stopped 3.0 Amperes 3.0 Amperes 3.0 Amperes

Engine Idling 1.9 Amperes 1.9 Amperes 1.9 Amperes

*When distributor is new or after rebuilding (new bushings and/or shaft installed). Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006".

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-7

LAMP

CHART

Imperial Chrysler

Location Lamp No* Lamp No.

Dual Headlamps (Sealed-Beam)

High and Low Beam Outer Lamp. 4002 4002

High Beam Inner L a m p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4001 4001

Tail Stop and Turn Signal L a m p s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1034 1034

Park and Turn Signal 1034 1034

Map L a m p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1004 1004

Dome Lamp. 1004 1004

Back-up Lamps 1073 1073

Luggage Compartment L a m p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1003 1003

Under-Hood Lamp '. 1003 1003

Rear License Plate Lamp 67 67

Headlamp High Beam Indicator Lamp 1445 57

Transmission Push Button Controls Lamp El * 1816

Parking Brake Warning Lamp 57 1816

Turn Signal Indicator L a m p s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1816 57

Speedometer Lamp EL * EL *

Heater Controls. Lamp. EL * EL *

Ignition Switch Lamp None 1816

Auto-Pilot Lamp. EL * 1816

Glove Compartment Lamp. 1891 1891

Ash Receiver Lamp 53 53

Clock. EL * EL *

Radio. EL * EL *

^Electroluminescent Lighting

FUSES

Auto-Pilot . . . . . . . . 10 ampere

Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ampere

C :ock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ampere

Cigar Lighter , 14 ampere

Instrument Panel L a m p s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2 ampere

Dome and Stop L a m p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 ampere

Park and Tail Lamps .\

9

ampere

Back-up Lamps 6 ampere

Glove and Trunk Compartments.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

ampere

Rear Window Defroster . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 ampere

Air Conditioning or Heater 20 ampere

CIRCUIT

BREAKERS

Circuit

Six- Way Seat.

Rated Capacity Location

22 ampere Integral with the lighting switch

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 ampere Back of wiper switch

20 ampere

(Special 4 Door) 30 ampere

Behind left front Mck panel

40 ampere Behind left front Hck panel

MyMopar.com

8-8 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

GROUP 8

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

BATTE1Y VISUAL INSPECTION

(1) Protect the fender paint finish with fender covers.

(2) Inspect the battery carrier for damage caused by loss of acid from the battery.

(S) Remove the battery hold-down clamp and clean the top of the battery with clean warm water and baking soda. Scrub areas with a stiff bristle brush being careful not to scatter corrosion residue with the bristles. Finally wipe off with a cloth moistened with ammonia or baking soda in water.

Keep cleaning solution out of battery cells to inate weakening the electrolyte.

(7) Tighten the battery hold-down screw nuts to

3 foot-pounds torque.

elim-

(4) Inspect the cables. Replace damaged or frayed cables.

(5) Inspect the terminal posts to see that they are not deformed nor broken. Clean the tapered battery terminals and the inside surfaces of the clamp terminals with the terminal cleaning tool, as shown i n

Figures 1 and 2.

(6) Examine the battery for cracks in the case, and raised cells. Inspect sealing compound for leaks.

Reseal as necessary.

CAUTION

(8) Observe the polarity of the terminals of battery to be sure the battery is not reversed and connect the cable clamps to the battery posts and tighten securely. Coat all connections with light mineral grease or petrolatum.

(9) I f the electrolyte level is low, fill to recommended level with mineral-free water.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST

A hydrometer is used to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery cells. This gives an indication of how much unused sulphuric acid remains in the solution.

Hydrometer loats are calibrated to indicate correctly only at one fixed temperature.

The specific gravity of the battery electrolyte varies not only with the quantity of acid in solution but also with temperature. Draw electrolyte in and out of the hydrometer barrel several times to bring the temperature of the hydrometer float to that of the acid in the cell and then measure the electrolyte temperature in the cell. The temperature correction amounts to .004 specific gravity points for each 10 degrees

Fahrenheit change in temperature.

The liquid level of the battery cell should be at normal height and the electrolyte should be thoroughly mixed with any battery water which may have just been added by charging the battery before taking any hydrometer readings. See "Adjustment

Fig. 1—Cleaning the Inside of the Cable Clamp Fig.

2 —Cleaning the

Outside of the Battery Post

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND MSTRUMENTS 8-9

of Acid Gravity".

A fully charged battery has a specific gravity reading of 1.260

plus .015

minus .005

(all batteries for use in temperate climates).

I f the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to a full charge, then proceed with the battery "Voltage Tests" and "Battery Capacity

Tests".

VOLTAGE TESTS

NOTE: Freshly charged batteries may have a "surface charge" which causes high and inaccurate readings unless properly dissipated. If battery is in the vehicle, turn the headlights on for one to three minutes to remove surface charge. Then turn lights off and wait several minutes before taking another reading.

To make a battery test, contact the meter prods

(Tool MT -379) to the proper cell terminals (red to positive, black to negative), using caution not to connect across more than one cell. The point of prod will have to be pushed through sealing compound to make contact with buried link for each cell reading.

The individual cell readings should not vary more than 0.15

volt between any two cells. A battery varying more than 0.15

volt between any two cells should be recharged and "high rate discharge tester" used to test the battery before discarding the battery as unsuitable for use.

CAUTION

Do not use an open flame near the battery.

Fig. 3—High late Discharge Test

(5) Maintain the load for 15 seconds, voltmeter should read 9.5

volts or more, which

will

indicate battery has good output capacity.

(6) Turn the control knob to the O F F position.

CHARGING THE BATTERY

If

the voltage

in

"High Rate Discharge Test"

was under

9.5

volt, the battery should be test charged to determine whether the battery can be satisfactorily charged.

HIGH RATE DISCHARGE TEST OF BATTERY

CAPACITY

Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only when battery equals or exceeds 1.220

specific gravity at

80 degrees Fahrenheit. I f reading is below 1.220, the battery should be slow charged until fully charged in order to secure proper test results.

(1) Turn the control knob of the battery starter tester to the OFF position.

(2) Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 4 volt position.

(3) Connect the test ammeter and voltmeter positive leads to the battery negative terminal and ammeter and voltmeter negative leads to the battery positive terminal (Fig.

3).

NOTE: The voltmeter clips must contact the battery posts or cable clamps and not the ammeter clips.

(4) Turn the control knob clockwise until ammeter reading is 200 amperes. a. Three Minute Charge Test (Fig. 4)

NOTE: This test should not be used if battery temperature is below 60 degrees F.

(1) Connect the positive ( + ) charger lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative (—) lead to the battery negative terminal.

(2) Trip the power switch to ON position. Turn charger timer switch past "three minutes" then back to "three minutes."

(3) Adjust the charge switch to the highest possible rate not exceeding 40 amperes.

(4) When the timer switch cuts off at end of 3 minutes, turn back to fast charge,

(5) Use the 4 volt scale of the battery starter tester voltmeter and quickly measure the voltage across each cell while the battery is being fast charged. A faulty cell or cells will be detected by a cell voltage variation of more than .1

volt.

(6) I f the cell voltages are even within .1

volt, use

16 volt scale of the battery starter tester and meas-

MyMopar.com

8-10 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig.

4— Three

Minute Charge

Test ure the total voltage of the battery posts while the battery is being fast charged. I f the total voltage during the charge exceeds 15.5 volts, the battery is sulphated and should be cycled and slow-charged until specific gravity reaches 1.260. (See "Slowing

Charging").

I f the specific gravity remains constant after testing the battery at one hour intervals for three hours, the battery is at its highest state of charge.

(7) Make another capacity test I f the capacity test does not meet specifications, replace the battery.

NOTE: A slow charge is preferable to bring the battery up to a full charge.

Safe slow charging rates are determined by allowing one ampere per positive plate per cell the proper slow charging rate would be 6 amperes for a 70 ampere hour battery. the following precautions are taken:

(1) The battery electrolyte temperature must

NEVER exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

I f this temperature is reached, the battery should be cooled by reducing the charging rate or remove the battery from the circuit.

(2) As the batteries approach full charge the electrolyte in each cell will begin to gas or bubble. Excessive gassing must not be allowed.

(3) Do not fast charge longer than one hour.

The battery is fully-charged when three successive hourly hydrometer readings show no rise in specific gravity. Remember to use the temperature correction when checking specific gravity.

I f the battery does not show a significant change b.

Fast Charging

the

Battery (Fig.

S)

I f adequate time for a slow charge is not available, a high rate (FAST) charge is permissible and will give a sufficient charge i n one hour, enabling the battery and alternator to continue to carry the electrical load.

Connect the positive ( + ) charger lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative ( —) charger lead to the battery negative terminal.

CAUTION

The battery can be damaged beyond repair unless

V

Fig.

5—Fast

Charging the Battery

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-11 in

the specific gravity after one

hour of "FAST" charge, the slow charge method should be used.

NOTE: The manufacturers of high rate charging equipment generally outline the precautions and some models have thermostatic temperature limiting and time limiting controls.

WARNING

When batteries are being charged an explosive gas mixture forms beneath the cover of each cell. Keep all sparks and open flames away from die battery. c .

Slow

Charging Batteries

to Remove

Sulphation

To condition a battery

that

is sulphated, charge

the battery for a minimum of 24 hours at a maximum charging rate of (4) amperes. As the battery approaches full

charge, test the specific gravity at hourly intervals. With no rise in specific gravity for three successive readings, the battery is charged to its peak capacity.

STARTING M O T O l

(DIRECT DRIVE)

The Chrysler Corporation built Starting Motor (Fig. type switch mounted on the starting motor.

6) is a 12-volt, four coil assembly. The starter drive The brush holders are riveted to a separate brush is an overrunning clutch type with a solenoid shift plate and are not serviced individually. Brush replace-

BRUSH SPRING

FRAME

Fig. 6—Starting Motor (Disassembled View) (Typical)

61x18

MyMopar.com

842 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS ment can be made by removing the commutator bearing end head.

STARTING MOTOB CIRCUIT a. Insulated Circuit Test

TESTS

(1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity.

The specific gravity should be 1.220 or above. I f the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to a full charge before proceeding with the test.

(2) Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 4 volt position.

(3) Disconnect the ignition coil secondary cable.

(4)

Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the battery positive post and the voltmeter negative lead to the solenoid connector which connects to the starter field coils.

NOTE: The voltmeter will read off the scale to the right until the starter is actuated.

(5) Connect the remote control switch to the battery and the solenoid terminal of the starter relay.

(6) Crank the engine with a remote starter control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading.

The voltmeter reading should not exceed .3 volt. A voltmeter reading of .3 volt or less indicates the voltage drop is normal in the cables, starter relay switch, solenoid switch and connections between the battery and the starting motor is normal. See "Starter

Ground Circuit Test".

I f the voltmeter reading is more than .3 volt, it indicates high resistance in the starter insulated circuit. Make the following test to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss.

(7) Remove the voltmeter lead from the solenoid connector and connect to the following points, repeating the test at each connection. The starter terminal of the solenoid, battery terminal of the solenoid, battery cable terminal at the solenoid, starter relay and the cable clamp at the battery.

(8) A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery insulated cable .2 volt

Solenoid switch .1 "

Each connection .0 "

Replace the faulty cables. Clean and tighten all connections. b. Starter Ground Circuit Test

(1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to the battery negative post.

(2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .2 volt. A reading of .2 volt or less indicates voltage loss in the ground cable and connections are normal. I f the voltmeter reading is more than .2 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in the starter ground circuit.

Make the following tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating the test at each connection.

(a) Starter drive housing.

(b) Cable terminal at the engine.

(c) Cable clamp at the battery.

A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery ground cable .2 volt

Engine ground circuit .1 "

Each connection .0 "

SERVICE PROCEDURES

STARTING MOTOR

Removal

(1) Disconnect the ground cable at the battery.

(2) Remove the starter cable at the starter.

(3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire from the solenoid.

(4) Remove the bolts attaching the starting motor to the flywheel housing and remove the starting motor and housing removable seal.

TESTING THE STARTING MOTOR (BENCH TEST) a. Free Running Test

(1) Place the starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged, 12 volt battery to the starter.

(2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery positive post and the starter terminal.

(3) Connect the voltmeter (15 volt scale) across

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL A N D INSTRUMENTS 843 the starter.

(4) Rotate the carbon pile to the full-resistance position.

(5) Connect the battery cable from the battery negative post to the starter frame.

(6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts.

The current draw should be 78 amperes maximum at 3800 minimum rpm. b. Stall Test

(1) Install the starting motor in the test bench.

(2) Follow the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer and check the stall torque of the starter against the following specifications.

(3) With the applied battery voltage adjusted to

4 volts, the stall torque should be 8 .5

foot-pounds minimum with a current draw of 350 amperes.

STARTER DISASSEMBLY {Fig. 6)

(1) Remove the through bolts and tap the commutator end head from the field frame.

(2) Remove the thrust washers from the armature shaft.

(3) Lift the brush holder springs and remove the brushes from the brush holders.

(4) Remove the brush plate (Fig.

7).

(5) Disconnect the rield coil leads at the solenoid connector (Fig. 8).

(6)

Remove the solenoid attaching screws and remove the solenoid and boot assembly (Fig.

9),

(7) Drive out the over-running clutch shift fork pivot pin (Fig. 10).

Fig.

8—

Field CoE Leads Disconnected from the

Solenoid

Connector

(8) Remove the drive end pinion housing and spacer washer.

(9) Note the position of the shifter fork on the starter.-and remove the shifter fork (Fig. 11).

(10) Slide the over-running clutch pinion gear toward the commutator end of the armature, drive the stop retainer toward the clutch pinion gear to

Fig. 9—Removing the Starter Solenoid

Fig. 7—Removing the Brush Ring

Fig.

10—Removing

the Shifter Fork Pivot Pin

MyMopar.com

8-14 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

(3) The drive unit may be cleaned with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth. s

STOP RETAINER

SNAP RING

SPACER WASHER

Fig* 11—Removing the Shifter Fork

61x23 expose the snap ring and remove the snap ring.

(11) Slide the over-running clutch drive from the armature shaft.

(12) I f it is necessary to replace the field coils, remove the ground brushes terminal attaching screw and raise the brushes with the terminal and shunt wire up and away from the field frame (Fig.

12).

Remove the pole shoe screws with a special pole shoe impact screwdriver, Tool C-3475.

Gleaning and Inspection

(1)

Do not immerse the parts in a cleaning solvent. Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with cloth only.

(2) Do not immerse the drive unit in a cleaning solvent. The drive clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash the lubrication from the clutch.

BRUSHES AND SPRINGS—REPLACEMENT

(1) The brushes that are worn more than

14

the length of the new brush, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced. The brushes and springs can be replaced after removing the commutator end head and the brush plate.

(2) Lift the brushes; disengage the brushes from

'the brush holders and remove the brush plate.

(3) Disconnect the field lead wires at the solenoid connector (Fig. 8).

(4) Remove the screw attaching the ground brush terminal to the field frame and raise the brushes and terminal up and away from the field frame (Fig. 12).

NOTE: The leads are not equal in length. Check the brush leads before cutting, to insure the proper length at installation.

(5) Clip the brush leads at the ground terminal and at the field coils.

(6)

Open the brush lead retaining clips to remove the old brush leads.

(7) When resoldering the brush leads, make a strong, low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux. Do not use acid.

Do not break the shunt wire when removing and installing the ground brushes.

(8) The brush springs can be removed by spreading the retainers and disengaging the springs from the retainer legs.

(9) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end.

Pull the scale on a line parallel to the edge of the

GROUND BRUSHES

TERMINAL

Fig. 12—Removing the Ground Brushes Terminal k 57P306

Fig. 13

—

Testing the Armature for Short

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 845 brush and take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush. The spring tension should be 32 to

48 ounces. Replace the springs that do not meet specifications.

TESTING THE ARMATURE a.

Testing the Armature for Short Circuit

Place the armature in the growler (Fig.

13) and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating the armature in the growler.

A shorted armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace a shorted armature. b. Testing Armature for Ground

Touch'the armature shaft and end of a commutatorbar with a pair of test lamp test prods (Fig.

14).

I f the lamp lights, i t indicates a grounded armature.

Replace the grounded armature. c.

Testing Commutator Runout,

Undercutting

Refacing and

Place the armature in a pair of "Vblocks and measure the runout with a dial indicator. Test both the shaft- and the commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, the commutator should be refaced. Remove only sufficient metal to provide a smooth, even surface.

TESTING THE FIELD COILS FOR GROUND

(1) Remove the through bolts and remove the commutator end frame.

(2) Remove the brushes from the brush holders and remove the brush ring (Fig. 7).

Fig. 15—Testing the Series Coil for Ground

(3) Disconnect the field lead wires at the solenoid connector and separate the field leads to make sure they do not touch the solenoid connector (Fig. 8).

(4) Remove the ground brushes attaching screw and raise the brushes with the terminal and shunt wire up and away from the field frame (Fig. 12).

(5) Touch one probe of the test lamp to the series field coil lead and the other probe to the field frame

(Fig. 15). The lamp should not light.

(6) Touch one probe to the shunt field coil lead and the other probe to the field frame (Fig. 16).

I f the lamp lights in either test steps (5) or (6), the field coils are grounded. I f the field coils are grounded, test each coil separately after unsoldering the connector wires. Replace the grounded field coils.

(7) Touch each of the brush holders with one test probe, while holding the other test probe against the brush ring. Two brush holders that are 180 degrees

Fig. 14 — Testing the Armature for Ground Fig. 16 — Testing the Shunt Coil for Ground

MyMopar.com

8-16 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

necessarily easily), but should not rotate in the opposite direction. I f the drive unit does not function properly, or the pinion is worn or burred, replace the drive unit.

Fig. 17 — Testing the Insulated Brush Holders

for

Ground apart should cause the test lamp to light as they are intentionally grounded. The other two brush holders

(Fig. 17) should not cause the lamp to light when tested, as they are insulated. I f the insulated brush holders cause the lamp to light when tested, it indicates that the brush holders on the brush ring are grounded. Replace the brush ring assembly i f the brush holders are grounded.

REPLACING THE FIELD COILS

A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C-3475 should be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening. The pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause the armature core to rub the pole shoes. This will decrease the starter efficiency and damage the armature core.

SERVICING THE BRUSHES

Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces and bushings for wear by placing the armature core in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Do not squeeze tightly. Try the commutator end frame, the drive end frame, and armature support bushings for wear by placing them on shafts and inspecting for side play.

Replace the commutator end frame and bushing assembly i f the bushing is worn, also, replace the drive end bushing i f i t is worn. The bushing should be well soaked in SAE 30W engine oil before i t is installed.

STARTER ASSEMBLY

(Fig.

8).

(1) Lubricate the armature shaft and splines with

SAE 10W oil or 30W rust preventive oil.

(2) Install the starter drive, stop collar (retainer) , the lock ring and the spacer washer.

(3) Install the shifter fork over the starter drive spring retainer washer with the narrow leg of fork toward commutator (Fig. 11). This is important, i f the fork is not properly positioned, the starter gear travel will be restricted causing a lockup in the clutch mechanism.

(4) Install the drive end (pinion) housing on the armature shaft, indexing the shifting fork with the slot in the drive end of the housing.

(5) Install the shifter fork pivot pin (Fig. 10).

(6) Install the armature with the clutch drive, shifter fork, and pinion housing; slide the armature into the field frame until the pinion housing indexes with the slot in the field frame.

(7) Install the solenoid and boot assembly (Fig.

9). Tighten bolts 60 to 70 inch-pounds torque.

(8) Install the ground brushes (Fig. 12).

(9) Connect the field coil leads at the solenoid connector (Fig. 8).

(10) Install the brush holder ring (Fig. 7) indexing the tang of the ring in the hole of the field frame.

(11) Position the brushes in the brush holders.

Be sure the field coil lead wires are properly enclosed behind the brush holder ring and that they do not interfere with the brush operation.

SERVICING THE DRIVE UNIT

Place the drive unit on the shaft and, while holding the armature, rotate the drive pinion. The drive pinion should rotate smoothly in one direction (not Fig. 18 — Measuring the Starter Drive Pinion Clearance

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

8-17

(12) Install the thrust washers on the commutator end of the armature shaft to obtain .010 inch minimum end play.

(13) Install the commutator end head.

(14) Install the through bolts and tighten 40 to

50 inch-pounds torque. pushed toward the commutator end. The clearance should be Vs inch. Adjust for proper clearance by loosening the solenoid attaching screws and move the solenoid fore and aft as required.

(4) Test the starter operation under a free running test (Paragraph "Testing the Starter Motor

(Bench Test)" ) .

ADJUSTING STARTER DRIVE GEAR (PINION)

CLEARANCE

(1) Place the starter assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and tighten the vise sufficiently to hold the starter.

NOTE: Place a wedge or screwdriver between the bottom of the solenoid and the starter frame to eliminate all deflection in the solenoid when making the pinion clearance check. (Fig. 18).

(2) Push in on the solenoid plunger link (Fig. 18)

(NOT THE FORK LEVER) until the plunger bottoms,

(3) Measure the clearance between the end of the pinion and pin stop with plunger seated and pinion

STARTER INSTALLATION

(1) Before installing the starter, be sure the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil. These surfaces must be clean to make good electrical contact.

(2) Position the starter to the flywheel housing removable seal.

(3) Install the starter from beneath the engine.

(4)

Tighten the attaching bolts securely.

(5) Attach the wires to the solenoid switch and the starter terminal.

(6) Install the battery ground cable and test operation of the starter for proper engine cranking.

STARTING MOTOR (REDUCTION GEAR TYPE)

The reduction-gear starting motor has an armatureto-engine crankshaft ratio of 45 to 1; a 3.5 to 1 reduction gear set is built into the motor assembly, which is housed in an aluminum die casting (Fig.

19). The starting motor utilizes a solenoid shift device, the housing of the solenoid is entegrai with the starting motor drive end housing. exceed .3 volt. A reading of voltage that exceeds .3 volt indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connections, a faulty cable, burned starter relay or solenoid switch contacts. A current that is high and is combined with slow cranking speed, indicates that the starter should be removed and repaired.

TESTING STARTER RESISTANCE AND CURRENT

DRAW

(1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity.

Specific gravity should be 1.220 or above. I f the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery

to full charge before proceeding with the test.

(2) Disconnect the positive bettery lead from the battery terminal post. Connect an 0 to 300 scale ammeter between the disconnected lead and the battery terminal post.

(3) Connect a test voltmeter with 10 volt scale division between the battery positive post and the starter switch terminal at the starter solenoid.

(4) Crank the engine and observe the readings on the voltmeter and ammeter. The voltage should not

STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT TEST

(1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to the battery negative post.

(2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .3 volt.

A reading of .3 volt or less indicates voltage in the ground cable and connections is normal. I f the voltmeter reading is more than .3 volt, i t indicates excessive voltage loss in the starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating the test at each connection.

(a) Starter drive housing.

(b) Cable terminal at the engine.

MyMopar.com

.010-035 END PLAY

POLE SHOE (4)

ARMATURE

SOLENOID

SLEEVE

WASHER

SOLENOID RETAINER

-REMOVABLE CORE

-FORK

RETAINER

FIBRE WASHERS (AS REQUIRED)

STEEL WASHER (.033)

FRICTION

WASHER

Fig.

19 — Starting Motor Cross Section

THRUST

WASHERS

OVERRUNNING

CLUTCH

62x219

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-19 l t

(c) Cable clamp at the battery.

A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit Is removed from the test. A definite change In the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test Is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery ground cable

.2

volt

Engine ground circuit

.1 "

Each connection

.0 "

STARTING' MOTOR

Removal

(1) Disconnect the ground cable at battery.

(2) Remove the cable at the starter.

(3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire at the solenoid terminals.

(4) Remove the one stud nut and one bolt attaching the starting motor to the flywheel housing and remove the starting motor, housing and removable seal.

TESTING THE

STARTING

MOTOR (BENCH TEST) a.

Free Ruiming Test

(1) Place the starter in a vise and connect a fullycharged, 12 volt battery to the starter as follows:

(2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery positive post and the starter terminal.

(3) Connect a voltmeter (15 volt scale) across the starter.

(4) Rotate the carbon pile to a full-resistance position.

(5) Connect the battery cable from the battery negative post to the starter frame,

(6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts.

(7) The current draw should be 85 amperes maximum at 1950 minimum rpm. b. Stall Test

(1) Install the starter in a test bench.

(2) Follow the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer and test the stall torque of the starter against the following specifications.

(3) With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts, the stall torque should be 24.0 foot-pounds minimum with a" current draw of 475 amperes.

SERVICE

PROCEDURES

DISASSEMBLY

(1) Place the gear housing of the starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use the vise as a support fixture only.

DO NOT clamp.

(2) Remove the two through bolts and the starter end head assembly.

(3) Carefully pu!l the armature up and out of the gear housing, and the starter frame and field assembly. Remove the steel and fiber thrust washer.

NOTE: The wire of the shunt field coil is soldered to the brush terminal. One pair of brushes are connected to this terminal. The other pair of brushes is attached to the series field coils by means of a terminal screw. Carefully pull the frame and field assembly up just enough to expose the terminal screw and the solder connection of the shunt field at the brush terminal. Place two wood blocks between the starter frame and starter gear housing (Fig. 20) to facilitate removal of the terminal screw and the unsoldering of the shunt field wire at the brush terminal.

(4) Support the brush terminal by placing a finger '.ehind the terminal and remove the terminal screw (Fig .20).

Fig.

20 —Removing the Brush Terminal Screw

MyMopar.com

8-20 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

BRUSH HOLDER

SOLENOID ASSEMBLY

62x199

Fig. 21—Unsoldering the Shunt Coil Lead Wire

(5) Unsolder the shunt field coil lead from the starter brush terminal (Fig, 21).

(6) Eemove the brush insulator which prevents contact between the brush terminal and the gear housing (Fig. 22).

NOTE; The brush holder plate with the brush terminal, contact and brushes Is serviced as an assembly.

(7) Remove the screw attaching the brush holder plate to the starter gear housing (Fig.

22).

(8) Remove the brush holder plate with the brushes and solenoid as an assembly (Fig. 23).

(9) Unsolder the solenoid winding from the starter brush terminal (Fig.

24).

BRUSH HOLDER

PLATE SCREW

INSULATOR

BRUSH

TERMINAL

62x201

Fig. 23

—

Removing the Brush Holder Plate

BRUSH

TERMINAL POST

POSITIVE BRUSHES 62x202

Fig. 24

—

Unsoldering the Solenoid Winding Lead

SOLENOID CONTACT

BRUSH HOLDER PLATE

SOLENOID

ASSEMBLY

62x200

Fig. 22—Removing the Brush Holder Plate Screw

SOLENOID STARTER

LEAD WIRE BATTERY TERMINAL

62x203

Fig. 25

—

Separating the Solenoid

from

the

Brush Holder Plate

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-21

Fig. 26

—

Removing the Contact Assembly

Fig. 27

—

Removing the Solenoid Coil Sleeve

Fig. 29

—

Removing the Dust Cover

(10)

Remove the nut

0 %

2

wrench), steel washer and nylon washer from the solenoid terminal

(11)

Separate the brush holder plate from the solenoid (Fig.

25).

(12)

Remove the nut, steel washer and nylon washer from the starter battery terminal.

(13)

Remove the starter battery terminal from the holder plate.

(14)

Remove the solenoid contact assembly (Fig.

26).

(15) Remove the solenoid coil sleeve (Fig. 27).

(16) Remove the solenoid return spring from the well of the solenoid housing moving core (See Fig.

23).

(17) Remove the

solenoid

coll

retainer washer and solenoid coil retainer from the solenoid housing

(Fig.

28). '

(18)

Remove the dust cover from the gear housing (Fig.

29).

(19)

Release the snap ring that positions the driven gear on the pinion shaft (Fig.

30).

62x206

Fig. 28

—

Identification of the Solenoid Coil

Retainer and the Retainer Washer Fig. 30

—

Removing the Driven Gear Snap Ring

MyMopar.com

8-22 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig. 31

—

Removing the Pinion

Shaft Retainer Ring

CAUTION

The ring

is

under tension and a cloth should he placed over the ring to prevent the ring from springing away after removal.

(20) Release the retainer ring at the front of the pinion shaft (Fig. 31).

NOTE: Do not spread the retainer ring any greater than the outside diameter of the pinion shaft otherwise the lock ring can be damaged.

(21) Push the pinion shaft towards the rear of the housing (Fig. 32) and remove the snap ring and thrust washers, clutch and pinion assembly, with the two shifter fork nylon actuators (Fig. 33).

(22) Remove the driven gear and friction washer.

(23) Pull the shifting fork forward and remove the solenoid moving core (Fig. 34).

(24)

Remove the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig.

35) and remove the clutch shifting fork assembly.

PINION SHAFT

Fig. 34—Removing the Moving Core

Fig. 32

—

Removing the Pinion Shaft

Fig.

35—

Removing

the Shifting Fork Pin

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-23

(25) The gear housing is serviced with the pinion shaft and armature shaft bushings as an assembly.

CLEANING THE STARTEB PARTS

(1) Do not Immerse the parts in cleaning solvent.

Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and /or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with gear may cleaning solvent and wiped dry with cloth.

a clean cloth only.

(2) Do not immerse the clutch unit in cleaning solvent. The clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash the lubrication from the clutch.

(3) The starter clutch outer housing and

be cleaned with a cloth moistened with

a clean

REPLACEMENT OF BRUSHES AND SPRINGS

pinion

dry

TESTING THE ARMATURE a. Testing the Armature for Short Circuit

Place the armature in the growler and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating the armature in the growler. A shorted armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace any armature that is shorted. ure the runout with a dial indicator; measure both the shaft and the commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout exceeds sufficient metal

.003

inch, the commutator should be refaced and undercut using Tool C

to provide a

-770.

Remove only

smooth, even surface. d. Testing Held Coils for Ground

(1) Remove the field frame assembly from the starter.

(2) Carefully drill out the rivet that attaches the series field coil (ground) lead and shunt field coil lead to the field frame.

(3) Insulate the field coil leads from the field frame.

(4) Test for ground using a 110 volt test lamp.

Touch one prod of test lamp to series field coil lead and other prod to the field frame. The lamp should not light. Repeat procedure for the shunt field coil.

I f the lamp lights, i t indicates that the field coils are grounded and require replacement.

(1) Brushes that are worn more than % the length of the new brushes, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced.

(2) When resoldering the shunt field and solenoid lead, make a strong, low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux. Do not use acid nor acid core solder.

Do not break the shunt field wire when removing and installing the brushes.

(3) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end.

Pull the scale on a line parallel to the edge of the brush and take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush. The spring tension should be 32 to

48 ounces. Replace the springs that do not meet specifications.

REPLACING THE FIELD COILS

A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C -3475 should be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening. The pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause the armature core to rub the pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and damage the armature core. i

N O T E :

M a k e

sure the area between the leads and the field frame is clean. Peen a new rivet securely to

insure a good electrical contact.

SERVICING THE BUSHINGS

Inspect the armature shaft bearing and pinion shaft surfaces and bushings for wear. Try the bushings for wear by placing them on shafts* and testing for side play. Replace the commutator end head and bushing assembly i f the bushing is worn. Replace the starter gear housing i f the bushings are worn. b. Testing Armature for Ground

Contact the armature shaft and each of the commutator riser bars with a.

pair of test lamp test prods.

I f the lamp lights, It indicates a grounded armature.

Replace any grounded armature. c.

Testing Commutator

Undercutting

Runout Refacing and

Place the armature In pair of " V " blocks and meas-

SERVICING THE STARTER CLUTCH UNIT

Do not immerse the starter clutch unit in a cleaning solvent. The starter clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and the solvent will wash the lubricant from the clutch.

The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.

Rotate the pinion. The pinion gear should rotate

MyMopar.com

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-25

smoothly in one direction, but should not rotate in the opposite direction. I f the starter clutch unit does not function properly, or the pinion is worn, chipped or burred, replace the starter clutch unit.

ASSEMBLY (Fig. 36)

NOTE: The shifter fork consists of two spring steel plates assembled with two rivets (Fig. 37). There should be approximately inch side movement, as shown in Figure 37 to insure proper pinion gear engagement. Lubricate between the plates sparingly with SAE 10 engine oil.

(1) Position the shifter fork in the drive housing and install the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig.

35).

One tip of pin should be straight, the other tip should be bent at a 15 degree angle away from the housing.

Fork and retainer pin should operate freely after bending the tip of pin.

(2) Install the solenoid moving core and engage the shifting fork (Fig.

34).

(3) Enter the pinion shaft into the drive housing, and install the friction washer and driven gear.-

(4) Install the clutch and pinion assembly. (Fig.

33), thrust washer, retaining ring and the thrust washer.

(5) Complete the installation of the pinion shaft engaging the shifting fork with the clutch actuators.

Figure 38 shows the correct relation of the parts at the assembly.

NOTE: The friction washer must be positioned on the shoulder of the splines of the pinion shaft before the driven gear is positioned.

(6) Install the driven gear snap ring (Fig.

31).

(7) Install the pinion shaft retaining ring (Fig.

31).

Make sure the ring lits tightly in the shaft groove. %

(8) Install the solenoid coll retainer (Fig.

28)

Fig. 38

—

Shifter Fork and Clutch Arrangement

(with tangs down).

NOTE: Space the retainer in the housing bore so that the four tangs rest on the ridge in the hqusihg bore and not in the recesses.

(9) Install the solenoid coil retainer washer.

(10) Install the solenoid return spring.

(Refer to Fig.

23).

NOTE: Inspect the condition of the starteriofenoid switch contacting washer, if the top of washer is burned from arcing, disassemble the contact switch assembly and reverse the washer.

( f t ) Install the solenoid contact assembly into the solenoid \ Fig. 26). Make sure the contact spring is-positioned on the solenoid contact assembly.

NOTE: Inspect the condition of the contacts in the brush holder plate. If the contacts are badly burned, replace the brush holder with brushes and contacts as an assembly.

Fig. 37—Shifter Fork Assembly Fig. 39—Installing the Solenoid Coil and Sleeve

MyMopar.com

8-26 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig. 40—Positioning the Brashes with Tool Se^ C-3855

(12) Enter the solenoid lead wire through the hole in the brush holder (Fig.

25) and solenoid stud, insulating washer, flat washer and the n u t

(13) Solder the solenoid lead wire to the solenoid contact terminal (Fig.

24).

Wrap the wire securely around the terminal, and solder securely with a high temperature solder and resin flux.

(14) Carefully enter the solenoid coil and solenoid coil sleeve into the bore of the gear housing and position the brush plate assembly into the gear housing. (Fig.

39).

Align the tongue of the ground terminal with the notch in the brush holder.

(15) After the brush holder is bottomed in the housing, install the attaching screw (Fig.

22) . Tighten the screw 10 to 15 inch pounds. Install the flat insulating washer and hold i n place with friction tape.

(16) Position the brushes with Tool C-3855, as shown in Figure 40.

(17) Position the field frame to the exact position and resolder the field coil lead (Fig.

21).

(18) Install the brush terminal screw (Fig.

20).

(19) Install the armature thrust washer on the brush holder plate (Fig.

19) and enter the armature into the field frame and gear housing (Fig.

41) ; carefully engaging the splines of the shaft with the reduction gear.

(20) Remove the brush positioning Tools C-3855

(Fig.

42).

(21) Install the thrust washer (fibre) and washer

(steel) on the armature shaft.

(22) Position the starter end head assembly and install the starter frame screws and lockwashers.

Tighten the screws securely.

(23) Install the gear housing dust cover. Make sure the dimples on the cover are securely engaged in the holes provided in the gear housing.

STARTING MOTOR INSTALLATION

(1) Before installing the starting motor, make sure the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil to insure a good electrical contact.

(2) Position the starter to the flywheel housing removable seal.

Fig. 41

—

Installing the Starter Armature Fig. 42—Removing the Brush Positioning Tools

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-27

(3)

Install the starting motor, washer and bolt and washer and nut.

NOTE: When tightening the attaching bolt and nut be sure to hold the starting motor moved away from the engine to Insure the proper alignment.

(4) Attach the wire at the solenoid switch terminal and cable to the starter terminal.

(5) Connect the battery ground cable and test the operation of the starting motor for proper engine cranking.

ALTEBNATOR

The alternator (Fig, 43) is fundamentally an A.C. current generator, with six (6) built-in silicon rectifiers, that convert the A.C. current into D.C. current.

D.C. current is available at the "output" "BAT" terminal. A voltage regulator (Fig. 44) is used in the field circuit to limit the output voltage.

The main components of the alternator are the rotor, the stator, xhe rectifiers, the two end shields and the drive pulley. (See Fig. 45.)

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

The only function of the regulator is to limit the output voltage. The voltage regulator accomplishes this by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil, and in effect controls the strength of the rotor magnetic field.

TESTING THE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM (On Vehicle) a.

Charging Circuit Resistance Test

Test the condition of the battery and state of charge.

With the battery in good condition and fully charged, proceed with the tests as follows:

(1) Disconnect the lead at the alternator "BAT" terminal. Connect a 0-50 ampere scale D.C. ammeter in series between the "BAT" terminal and "BAT" lead which was disconnected from the terminal (Fig.

46).

(2) Connect the positive lead of a test D.C. voltmeter to the "BAT" lead, and connect the negative voltmeter lead to the battery positive ( + ) terminal.

(3) Start and operate the engine at a speed to obtain 10 amperes flowing in the circuit. Observe the voltmeter, reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .2 volt. I f a higher voltage drop is indicated, inspect, clean and tighten all the connections in the charging circuit. A voltage drop test may be performed at each connection to locate that connection with excessive resistance.

Fig. 43—Alternator Installed Fig. 44—Voltage Regulator Installed (Typical)

MyMopar.com

8-28 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

S H I E L D -

I N S U L A T O R

\

NUT

W A S H E R

\ \ W A S H E R

".

1

B U S H I N G

S P A C E R

I I N S U L A T O R

| | H E A T S I N K

.1 | j S C R E W

C A P A C I T O R

BOLT

S T A T O R

^ r- SLIP RINGS

*

!l

•

J

- T O

1 H M :

WASHER -

5f RECTIFIER

7

/

R O T O R

RETAINER j

| | \ , ^ BRUSH

P A C K A G E

/ l l s

\ \ \ INSERT

/ '.j ;

\ V H O L D E R

/ ';

s

TERMINAL

: I

; N Y L O N

W A S H E R j

W A S H E R

/ S C R E W

B E A R I N G

B E A R I N G

S H I E L D

S C R E W

62 x 240

Fig.

45 —Alternator

(Disassembled

View)

"BAT" lead to the alternator "BAT" terminal and tighten securely. b.

(4) Disconnect the test instruments. Connect the

Field Circuit Resistance Test (Fig. 47)

(1)

Disconnect the ignition wire at the coil side of

the ballast resistor and connect a D.C.

voltmeter between the voltage regulator "FLD" (field) terminal and battery positive post.

(2)

Turn the ignition switch on and turn the voltmeter selector switch to the low voltage scale and read the meter. The votage should not exceed .3

Fig. 48

—Charging the Circuit Resistance Test

Fig. 47—Field Circuit Resistance Test

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-29 volt. A reading i n excess of .8 volt indicates high resistance in -the field circuit between the battery and the voltage regulator field terminal.

(3) If high resistance is indicated, move the negative voltmeter lead to each connection along the circuit towards the battery. A sudden drop in voltage Indicates a loose or corroded connection between that point and the last point tested. To test the terminals for tightness, attempt to move the terminal while observing the voltmeter. Any motion of the meter pointer indicates looseness.

NOTE; Resistance in the regulator wiring circuit will cause flickering headlights and 'luctuations in the ammeter,

TEST A M M E T E R r yOLTASE RE8ULATQR

'ISM.

mum COIL

IBilllN

S l i d

A M M E T E R

A

STARTER

SOLENOID

4* c.

Current Output Test {Fig. 48)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) - Disconnect the "BAT" lead at the alternator output "BAT" terminal.

(.3) Connect a 0-50 ampere scale D .C. ammeter in series between the alternator "BAT" terminal and the disconnected " B A T " lead.

(4) Connect the "positive" lead of a test voltmeter to the output " B A T " lead. Connect the "negative" lead of the test voltmeter to ground.

(5) Disconnect the field "FLD" lead at the alternator and at the regulator.

(6) Connect a "jumper" lead from the alternator field " F L D " terminal to the alternator output "BAT" terminal. Be sure the ammeter lead is satisfactorily connected to the output "BAT" terminal.

(7) Connect the engine tachometer. Connect the battery ground cable.

(8) Connect a battery-starter tester (equipped

Fig. 49—Voltage Regulator Test with a variable carbon pile) to the battery terminals.

(9) Start and operate the engine at 1250 rpm.

(10) Adjust the "carbon pile" to obtain a reading of 15 volts on the test voltmeter.

(11) Observe the reading on the test ammeter.

The current output should be within the limits shown i n the specifications.

I f the output is slightly less (5 to 7 amperes) than that specified above, i t may be an indication of possible "open" rectifier or other alternator Internal problem. I f the output is considerably lower than that specified above, i t may be an indication of

a possible "shorted"' rectifier or other alternator internal problem. I n either case the alternator should be removed and tested on the bench before disassembly.

T E S T

MM"ii

c

J 3 . , v

, „ ^

Fig. 48—Current Output Test cL Voltage Regulator Test (on the Vehicle

—

Engine at

Normal Operating Temperature (Fig.

49)

(1) I f the alternator current output tested satisfactorily ; t u r n off the ignition switch and remove

the jumper lead from the alternator "field" terminal and

"output" terminal. Connect the

field

lead

at the alternator field " F L D " terminal and regulator

field

" F L D " terminal The test ammeter

and

test

voltmeter leads remain connected

as

for

the

current

output test.

NOTE: I f the

field

circuit

is grounded on the field terminal side of the regulator circuit when removing or Installing the

lead,

while

the ignition

is ON, the fuse wire in the regulator circuit will be blown and

the regulator

may be damaged.

MyMopar.com

8-30 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

(2) Start and operate the engine at 1250 rpm.

Turn on the lights and electrical accessories to obtain a 15 ampere output as registered on the test ammeter. Operate the engine at this speed and load for 15 minutes to make sure the entire regulator system Is stabilized.

(3) Measure the temperature at the regulator

by holding a reliable thermometer two (2) Inches from the regulator.

(4) Turn off the lights and other electrical load.

Turn on the instrument panel lights. Read the test voltmeter. With a fully charged battery and 15 amperes flowing in the circuit, the voltmeter reading should be within specifications.

N O T E : No current reading on the test ammeter would indicate a blown fuse wire Inside the voltage regulator between the upper stationary contact and the

"IGN"

terminal. Correct the cause and replace the fusible wire.

(5) Increase engine speed to 2200 rpm. Turn off all lights and/or accessories. Voltage should increase and amperage should decrease.

N O T E : There will be a slightly higher voltage at higher engine speeds above 2200 rpm, however, this

Increased voltage must not exceed the voltage specified by more than .7 volt at any temperature range.

If the voltage reading is less than .2 volt from readings in Step (4), test the battery specific gravity to be sure battery is fully charged,

(6)

If the regulator setting is outside the limits shown, the regulator must be removed to remove the cover. To adjust the voltage setting, bend the regulator lower spring hanger down to increase voltage setting, or up to decrease voltage setting.

Use an insulated tool to bend the spring hanger.

(See Fig.

50).

The regulator must be installed, correctly connected, and retested after each adjustment of the lower spring hanger.

Fig. 50 — Adjusting the Spring Tension

N O T E : If repeated readjustment is required, it is permissible to use a jumper wire to ground the regulator base to the fender splash shield for testing, in lieu of reinstalling the regulator each time.

However, it is Important that the regulator cover be reinstalled, the regulator connections correctly connected, and the regulator satisfactorily Insulated by the fender cover to prevent grounding the regulator terminals or resistances. When testing, the regulator must be at the same attitude (or angle) as when installed on the vehicle.

(4) If the alternator and regulator tested satisfactorily, turn the ignition switch " O F F " .

Disconnect the battery ground cable. Disconnect the test instruments. Correctly connect the leads at the alternator and regulator. Connect the battery ground cable.

C A U T I O N

Be sure the negative post of the battery is always connected to ground. Incorrect battery polarity may result in wiring harness damage and may damage the alternator rectifiers. Do not ground the alternator field circuit, as this may damage the regulator.

SEHVICE PHOCEDUHES

REGULATOR

Regulator Mechanical Adjustments

If the regulator cannot be satisfactorily adjusted for voltage control, or if the regulator performance is erratic or malfunctions, it may be necessary to adjust the regulator air gap and contact point gap.

(1) Remove the regulator from the vehicle. Remove the regulator cover.

(2) Insert a .048 inch wire gauge between the regulator armature and the core, next to the stop pin on the spring hanger side (Fig.

51).

(3) Press down on the armature (not the contact spring) until it contacts the wire gauge. The

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-31

Fig. 51—Testing the Air Gap

BENCH TESTS a.

Field CoE Draw i f the alternator field coil draw has not been tested on the vehicle i t may be tested on the test bench as follows:

(1) Connect one lead of a test ammeter to one terminal of a fully charged battery. Connect a jumper wire to the other terminal of the battery, and ground i t to the alternator end shield. Connect the other ammeter lead to the field terminal of the alternator.

(2) Slowly rotate the alternator rotor by hand.

Ooserve the ammeter reading. The field coil draw should be 2.3 amperes to 2.7 amperes at 12 volts.

NOTE: A low rotor coil draw is an indication of high resistance in the field coil circuit, (brushes, slip rings, or rotor coil).

A higher rotor coil draw indicates a possible shorted coil or a grounded rotor. upper contacts should just "open".

NOTE: A in series used to

When

12 volt battery and

to the

" I G N "

and

test

- F L D "

light connected

terminals may be

accurately determine the contact opening.

the contacts open, the test light will go "dim".

(4) Insert a .052

inch wire gauge between the armature and the core, next to the stop pin on the spring hanger side.

(5) Press down the armature until i t contacts the wire gauge. The contacts should remain "closed", and the test light should remain "bright".

(6) I f adjustment is required, adjust the air gap by loosening the screw and moving the stationary contact bracket; make sure the air gap is measured with attaching screw fully tightened. Remeasure the air gap as described in steps (2), (3), (4) and

(5.)

(7) Remove the wire gauge from under the armature. Measure the lower contact gap with a feeler gauge. The lower contact gap should be .015

inch

(plus or minus .001").

Adjust the lower contact gap by bending the lower stationary contact bracket.

(8) Install the regulator cover. Install the regulator. The electrical adjustment must be performed on the vehicle after installation of the regulator.

ALTERNATOR

Removal

I f the alternator performance does not meet current output specification limits, i t will have to be removed and disassembled for further test and servicing.

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Disconnect the alternator output "BAT" and field "FLD" leads and disconnect the ground wire.

(3) Remove the alternator from the vehicle. b. Testing Alternator Internal Field Circuit for a Ground

(1) To test the internal field circuit for a ground, remove the ground brush. Touch one test prod from a 110 volt test lamp to the alternator insulated brush terminal and the remaining test prod to the end shield. I f the rotor assembly or insulated brush is not grounded, the lamp will not light.

(2) I f the lamp lights, remove the insulated brush assembly (noting how the parts are assembled) and separate the end shields by removing the three thru bolts.

(3) Again test by placing one of the test prods to a slip ring and the remaining test prod to the end shield. I : the lamp lights, the rotor assembly is grounded and requires replacement. I f the lamp does not light after removing the insulated brush and separating- the end shields, the cause of the ground at the first ground test was that the insulated brush is grounded.

(4) Examine the plastic insulator and the screw.

The screw is a special size and must not be substituted by another size.

(5) Install the insulated brush holder, terminal, insulated washer, shake proof washer and screw.

I f the parts were not assembled in this order or i f the wrong screw was used this could be the cause of the ground condition. c. Disassembly

To prevent possible damage to the brush assemblies, they should be removed before proceeding with the disassembly of the alternator. The insulated brush is mounted in a plastic holder that positions the brush vertically against one of the slip rings.

(1) Remove the retaining screw lockwasher, insulated washer, and field terminal, and carefully

MyMopar.com

8-32 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig, 52

—

Removing the insulated

Brush

62x106

Fig. 53—Removing the

Ground Brush

Fig.

55 —Removing the

Pulley lift the plastic holder containing the spring and brush assembly from the end housing (Fig. 52).

(2) The ground brush is positioned horizontally against the remaining slip ring and is retained in a holder that is integral with the end shield. Remove the retaining screw and lift the clip, spring and brush assembly from the end shield (Fig. 53).

CAUTION

The stator is laminated, do not burr stator or the end shield.

(3) Remove the through bolts and pry between the stator and drive end shield with the blade of a screwdriver (Fig. 54). Carefully separate the drive end shield, pulley and rotor assembly away from the stator and the rectifier shield assembly.

(4) The pulley is an interference fit on the rotor shaft. Remove the pulley with puller Tool C-3615 and special adaptor SP-3002 (Fig. 55).

Fig.

54 —Separating the

Drive End

Shield from

the

Stator

Fig. 56 — Disengaging the Bearing Retainer from the End Shield

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-33

TOOL

Fig. 57—Removing the Bearing

from the Rotor Shaft Fig. 59—Removing the Rectifier End Shield Bearing

(5) Pry the drive end bearing spring retainer from the end shield with a screwdriver (Fig. 56).

(6) Support the end shield and tap the rotor shaft with a plastic hammer to separate the rotor from the end shield.

I f the drive end bearing Is to be replaced, always use the new bearing Part Number 2095653.

NOTE: The new bearing Is lubricated with a predetermined amount of special lubricant and does not require additional lubrication.

(7) The drive end ball bearing Is an interference fit with the rotor shaft. Remove the bearing with puller Tool C-3615 and adapter as follows:

(a) Position the center screw of Tool C-3615 on the rotor shaft.

(b) Place the thin lower end of the adapters

SP -3375 under the bearing equally spaced and the upper end of the adapters around the center screw.

Fig. 58—Removing the Heat Sink Insulator

(c) Hold the adapters and center screw in position with the tool sleeve.

CAUTION

Tool sleeve must bottom on bearing, otherwise, the adapters may be damaged.

(d) Turning the center screw while holding the outer body of tool (Fig.

57) will withdraw the bearing from the rotor shaft.

NOTE: No further disassembly of the rotor is required, as the balance of the rotor assembly is not serviced separately.

(8) Remove the D.C.

output terminal nuts and washers and remove the terminal screw and inside capacitor (on units so equipped).

NOTE: The heat sink is also held in place by the terminal screw.

(9) Remove the insulator (Fig.

58).

(10) The needle roller bearing in the rectifier end shield is a press fit. I f i t is necessary to remove the rectifier end frame needle bearing, protect the end shield by supporting the shield with Tool SP-

3383 when pressing the bearing out with Tool C-

3770

(Fig.

59).

NOTE: The new bearing is prelubricated and no additional lubricant should be added, as an excessive amount of lubricant will contaminate the slip rings and cause premature brush and rotor failures.

TESTING THE RECTIFIERS WITH TOOL C-3829

The new Rectifier Tester Tool C-3829 provides a quick, simple and accurate method to test the alternator rectifiers without the necessity of disconnecting the soldered rectifier leads. With the alternator rectifier and end shield separated from the drive end housing proceed with rectifier tests as follows:

MyMopar.com

8-34 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Positive Case

Rectifier

Test (Fig. 60)

(a) Place the alternator on an Insulated surface.

Connect the test lead clip to the alternator ("BAT"). output terminal.

(b) Plug In the Tool C -3829 power source lead into a 110 volt A.C. power supply. Touch the exposed bare metal connections, of each of the positive case rectifiers, with the test prod.

NEGATIVE CASE

CAUTION

Do not break the sealing around the rectifier lead wire, or on the inner end of the rectifier. The sealing material Is for protection against corrosion.

Always touch the test prod to the exposed metal connection nearest the rectifier.

The reading for satisfactory rectifiers will be 1 % amperes or more. The reading should be approximately the same for the three rectifiers.

When two rectifiers are good and one is shorted, the reading taken at the good rectifiers will be low, and the reading at the shorted rectifier will be zero.

Disconnect the lead to the rectifier reading zero and retest. The reading of the good rectifiers will now be within the satisfactory range.

When one rectifier is open i t will read approximately one ampere, and the two good rectifiers will read within the satisfactory range.

Negative Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 61)

(a) Connect the test lead clip to the rectifier end housing.

(b) Touch the exposed connection of each of the negative case rectifiers with the test prod.

The test specifications are the same, and the test results will be approximately the same as for the positive case rectifiers, except the meter will read on the opposite side of the scale.

Fig. 61 — Testing the Negative

TESTING THE RECTIFIERS AND STATOR

(WITHOUT TOOL C-3829)

(a) Separate the three (3) stator leads at the

"Y" connection. (See Fig. 62).

NOTE: Cut the stator connections as close to the connector as possible because they will have to be soldered together again. I f they are cut too short it may be difficult to get them together again for soldering.

(b) Test the rectifiers with a 12 volt battery and a test lamp equipped with a number 67 bulb (4 candle power) by connecting one side of test lamp to the positive battery post; the other side of the test lamp to a test probe with the other test probe connected to the negative battery post.

(c) Contact the outer case of the rectifier with one probe and the other probe to the wire In the center of the rectifier. (See Fig. 63.)

(d) Reverse the probes, moving the probe from

Fig.

60 —

Testing the Positive Rectifiers Fig. 62—Separating the Three Stator Leads (Typical)

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-35

Fig. 63 — Testing the Rectifiers with a Test Lamp (Typical)

Fig. 65 — Testing the Stator Windings for Continuity (Typical) the rectifier outer case to the rectifier wire, and the probe from the rectifier wire to the rectifier outer case.

I f the test lamp "lights" in one direction but does

"not light" in the other direction, the rectifier is satisfactory. I f lamp lights in "both directions", the rectifier is "shorted". I f the test lamp does "not light" in either direction, the rectifier is "open".

NOTE: The usual cause of an open or a blown rectifier is a faulty capacitor or a battery that has been installed in reverse polarity. If the battery is installed properly and the rectifiers are open, test the capacitor capacity — .158 microfarad (minimum).

(e) Disconnect the rectifiers from the stator leads.

(f) Test the stator for grounds using a 110 volt test lamp (Fig. 64). Use wood slats to insulate the stator from the rectifier shield. Contact one prod of the test lamp to the stator pole frame, and contact the other prod to each of the three stator leads.

The test lamp should "not light". I f the test lamp lights, the stator windings are "grounded".

(g) Test the stator winding for continuity, by contacting one prod of the test lamp to all three stator leads at the " Y " connection. Contact each of the three stator leads (disconnected from the rectifiers) . The test lamp should "light" when the prod contacts each of the three leads. I f the test lamp does not light the stator winding is "open". (See

Fig. 65).

(h) Install a new stator i f the one tested is

"grounded" or "open". I f the rectifiers must be replaced unsolder the rectifier wire at the soldered joint.

NOTE: Three rectifiers are pressed into the heat sink

and three in the end

shield.

When removing the rectifiers, it is necessary to support the end shield and/or heat sink to prevent damage to these castings.

Fig. 64

—

Testing the Stator for Grounds (Typical) Fig. 66—Removing the Rectifier

MyMopar.com

8-36 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SLIP R I N G P R E S S E D O N G R O U N D S H A F T S U P R I N G P R E S S E D O N K N U R L E D S H A F T

Fig. 67—Slip Ring Solder Lugs

(1) Support the rectifier shield on Tool C-3771 welded to a support plate.

N O T E : This tool Is cut-away and slotted to fit over the wires and around the bosses In the shield. Make sure that the bore of the tool completely surrounds the rectifier, then press the rectifier out of the shield using a suitable press out tool Fig. 66.

Fig. 69

—

Aligning the Slip Ring with the

Field Wire Guide Wire

REPLACING SLIP RINGS

Slip rings that are damaged can be replaced as follows:

(1) Unsolder the field coil leads at the solder lugs (Fig. 67).

(2) Cut through the copper of both slip rings at opposite points (180° apart) with a chisel (Fig. 68).

(3) Break the insulator and remove the old ring.

(4) Clean away dirt and particles of the old slip ring from the rotor.

(5) Scrape the ends of the field coil lead wires clean for good electrical contact.

(6) Scrape one end (about %

6

inch) of a piece of bare wire (approx. 18 gauge) three inches long (to be used as a guide wire).

(7) Tin the scraped area of the guide wire with resin core solder. Lap the tinned end of the wire over the field coil lead to the insulated ring and solder the two together.

Fig. 68—Cutting the Old Slip Rings Fig. 70—Installing the Slip Ring

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-37

(8) Position the new slip ring carefully* over the guide wire and the rotor shaft so the wire will lay in the slip ring groove (Fig, 69). The groove in the slip ring must be in line with the Insulated brush field lead to.provide room for the lead without damaging i t .

(9) Place installing Tool €-3900 over the rotor shaft with the guide wire protruding from the slot in the tool.

(10) Position Jie rotor, slip ring and tool assembly in an arbor press (Fig. 70). Pull upon the guide wire being careful to guide the insulated field lead into the slip ring groove. While guiding the insulated field lead through the groove, press the slip ring on the shaft. When the slip ring is bottomed on the rotor fan the end of the field lead should be visible at the solder lug (Fig. 71).

(11) Unsolder the guide wire from the insulated brush slip ring lead. Press the field lead into the solder lug and solder to lug with resin core solder.

Fig. 72

—

Installing a Rectifier the slip rings are shorted to the ground, possibly due to a grounding Insulated field lead when installing the slip ring.

I f the rotor Is not grounded, lightly clean the slip ring surfaces with -00- sand paper and assemble the alternator.

CAUTION

Do not use acid core solder.

A short circuit may result and corrosion will definitely occur.

(12) Coil the ground brush ring field lead around the solder lug (Fig. 71) and solder with resin core solder.

(13) Test the slip rings for ground with a 110 volt test lamp by touching one test lead prod to the rotor pole shoe and the remaining prod to the slip rings.

The test lamp should not light. I f the lamp lights,

6 2 X 5 2 9

Fig. 71 — Solder Points—Slip ling Installed

Assembly

(1) Support the heat sink or rectifier end shield on the circular plate Tool SP-3377.

NOTE: Remove the output terminal nuts before installing new rectifiers.

<2) Note the rectifier identification to make sure the correct rectifier is being installed. Refer to the

Parts List for the rectifier identification.

(3) Start the new rectifier into the casting squarely and press the rectifier into the casting with

Tool C-3772 (Fig. 72).

CAUTION

The outer counterbore of the installing Tool C-3772 must clear the outside diameter of the rectifier

(diode) and the .515 inch inner counterbore of the tool must clear the plastic dome (units so equipped) to insure that all pressing force is applied on the outside rim of the rectifier. Do Not Use a hammer to start the rectifier into its bore in the end shield. Use an arbor press and Tool C-3772 to install the rectifier.

DO NOT HAMMER OR SHOCK the rectifier in any manner as this will fracture the thin silicon wafer in the rectifier causing complete rectifier failure.

(4) Solder the wire lead to the wires disconnected at removal. Hold the wire lead with pliers (Fig. 73) while soldering it. This will help to dissipate heat,

MyMopar.com

8-38 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

RECTIFIER LEAD 62x114 62x116

Fig.

73 —Soldering the Rectifier and Stator Leads Fig.

75—Installing the Drive End Shield and Bearing protecting the rectifier.

(5) Support the end shield on Tool SP-3383 so that the notch in support tool will clear the raised section of the heat sink and press the bearing into position with Tool SP-3381 (Fig. 74).

NOTE: New bearings are pre-lubricated, additional lubrication Is not required.

(6) Insert the drive end bearing In the drive end shield with the shielded side of bearing toward the rotor and Install the bearing retainer plate to hold the bearing In place.

(7) Position the bearing and drive end shield on the rotor shaft and, while supporting the base of the rotor shaft, press the bearing and shield into position on the rotor shaft with the arbor press and

Tool C-3769 (Fig. 75).

CAUTION

Make sure that the bearing is Installed squarely at installation; otherwise, damage to the bearing will result. Press the bearing on the rotor shaft until the bearing contacts the shoulder on the rotor shaft.

(8) Install the pulley on the rotor shaft. The shaft of the rotor must be supported in a manner so that all pressing force is on the pulley hub and rotor shaft (Fig. 76).

NOTE: Do not exceed 6800 pounds pressure. Press the pully on the rotor shaft until the pulley contacts the inner race of the drive end bearing.

(9) The alternators have the capacitor mounted internally. Make sure the heat sink insulator is in place.

(10) Install the output terminal screw with the capacitor attached through the heat sink and end shield (Fig. 77).

(11) Install the insulating washers, lockwashers and lock nuts.

(12) Make sure the heat sink and insulator are

Fig.

74 —Installing the Rectifier End Shield Bearings Fig. 76

—

Installing the Alternator Pulley

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-39

Fig.

77—Installing

the

Inside Capacitor in position and tighten the lock nut.

(13) Position the stator on the rectifier end shield.

(14) Position the rotor end shield assembly on the stator and rectifier end shield. Align the through bolt holes in the stator, rectifier end shield and drive end shield.

(15) Compress the stator and. both end shields by hand and Install the through bolts, washers and nuts.

(18) Install the Insulated brush In the rectifier end. Place the bronze terminal on the plastic holder with 'the tab of the terminal in the recess in the plastic holder.

(17) Place the nylon washer on the bronze terminal and Install the lockwasher and attaching screws.

(18) Install the ground brush and attaching screw.

(19) Rotate the pulley slowly by'hand to be sure that the rotor fans do not hit the rectifiers, capacitor lead, and stator connections.

(20) Install the alternator and adjust the drive belt according to the Instructions in "ACCESSORY

BELT DRIVE" Group 7A of this Service Manual.

(21) Connect the output "RAT" and the field

" F L D " leads and connect the ground wire.

(22) Connect the battery ground cable.

(23) Start and operate the engine, and observe the alternator operation.

(24) Test the surrent output and regulator voltage setting, i f necessary.

IGNITION SYSTEM

The ignition system consists of two separate circuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distributor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and the primary wiring make up the low voltage primary circuit. The secondary high voltage circuit includes the coil secondary winding, the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plug cables, "he spark plugs and the vehicle frame.

SECONDARY CIRCUIT INSPECTION

The coil to distributor cap wire and the spark plug wires should make good, clean contact in the ignition coil, the distributor cap towers and on the spark plugs. Wires that are loose or are not inserted all the way into the towers or on the plugs will corrode and increase the resistance as well as cause carbon tracking of the coil or cap towers.

The ignition coil tower, i f oily or dirty, should be wiped clean and inspected for cracks, carbon tracking or oil leaks. Replace the coil i f faulty.

Inspect the distributor cap for oil film, dirt or metal particles on the inside surface. Any contamination, however slight, can become conducting and cause hard starting in wet weather. Thoroughly wash the cap in a w e a k solution of liquid soap or detergent in warm water. Do not use a concentrated solution or soak the cap in the solution. Scrub the inner surfaces with a stiff bristle nylon brush to clean between the ribs and the crevices. Rinse well in hot water, shake out excess of water and dry thoroughly.

Do not use compressed air to dry or blow out the water. Carefully inspect for cracks or carbon tracking on the inner or outer surfaces. Replace the cap it faulty.

The secondary cables, cap and rotor should be tested, using Tool C-3296.

This tester provides high voltage which is sufficient for testing secondary insulation. Test the resistance of the spark plug cables.

Replace the cable i f resistance is more than 30,000 ohms. Replace the cable i f the terminal has pulled off.

MyMopar.com

8-40 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

NOTE

: Pulling

the wires to disconnect

them from the plugs can stretch them and increase secondary resistance. To remove the wire, grasp the boot at the end of the wire and rotate the boot slightly to break the adhesion between it and the spark plug insulator.

The rotor and distributor cap electrodes should be

Inspected for burning. Replace the rotor i f the electrode is burned on the top or i f the electrode is worn too short.

IDLE RPM TEST

The engine idle rpm setting should be tested and recorded as i t is when the vehicle Is first brought Into the shop for testing. This will assist i n diagnosing complaints of engine stalling or complaints of creeping and hard shifting on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions.

Test procedures are as follows:

DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE TEST

This test Indicates the resistance of the ignition primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil, through the points and the distributor ground. Excessive resistance in this portion of the ignition system will prevent the coil from producing sufficient output for good over-all ignition. To perform test, proceed as follows:

(1) Turn the Selector Switch of a tach-dwell unit to the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell

Calibrator until the Dwell Meter reads on the set line (test leads separated).

(2) Leave selector Switch in the CALIBRATE position, connect the tach-dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and the black lead to a good ground.

(3) Turn ignition switch "ON". Observe dwell meter reading. Meter pointer should be well within the black bar marked "DISTRIBUTOR RESIS-

TANCE". I f reading is zero or outside of black bar, crank the' engine with the starter until the meter pointer moves as far to right as possible. (This will indicate that breaker points are closed.) A reading now within the black indicates a normal distributor primary" circuit. <

I f the reading is outside the black bar, high resistance is present in the distributor primary circuit.

(4) Remove the test lead from the distributor terminal of coil and connect to the following points:

(a) Distributor primary terminal (outside)

(b) Distributor primary terminal (Inside)

(c) Breaker point terminal bracket (Insulated bracket)

(d) Ground side of contact points.

(e) Distributor housing.

(5)

Repeat test at each connection until a noticeable change occurs In the meter reading. I f a poor connection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten or replace as necessary and repeat test ( 3 ) .

I f faulty contact points are indicated, remove distributor for complete inspection, service, testing and calibration.

(1) Turn the Selector Switch to the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell Calibrator until the

Dwell Meter reads on the SET line (test leads separated) .

(2) Connect the red lead of the test unit to the distributor primary terminal at the coil and the black lead to a good ground.

(3) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position.

(4) Turn the tachometer rpm switch to the 1000 rpm position.

(5) With the engine at normal operating temperature (off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and release to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and that the Idle speed screw is against Its stop.

(6) Note engine rpm on 100 rpm scale and adjust carburetor Idle speed screw to obtain 550 engine rpm.

DISTRIBUTOR POINT DWELL

The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of rotation through which the breaker contact points remain closed. This is also commonly referred to as

"dwell angle" or "cam angle".

The correct distributor point dwell Is essential for good Ignition performance and contact point life.

Test procedures are as follow:

(1) Connect the Tach-Dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.

(2) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position.

(3) Start the engine and operate at 550 rpm.

(4) Observe the dwell meter reading. I f the dwell reading is within "Specifications", the point gap, cam rubbing block and breaker arm are all in satisfactory condition.

I f the dwell reading is not within specifications, incorrect point gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or distorted breaker arm may be indicated.

DUAL BREAKER POINTS

Block one set of contacts with a clean insulator and

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 841 adjust the opposite set of contacts 27 to 32 degrees on the dwell meter.

NOTE: Loosen the stationary contact lock screw just enough, so that the stationary contact can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise it will be difficult to set the contacts accurately.

When the one set of contacts has been adjusted for the correct clearance, tighten the stationary contact lock screw.

Block the adjusted set of contacts with an insulator and adjust the remaining set of contacts in the same manner as the first set 27 to 32 degrees. Eemove insulator and recheck tightness of the stationary contact lock screw. •

I f the contacts have been properly adjusted, the dwell should be 34 to 40 degrees for both sets of points.

DWELL VARIATION

This test indicates'the mechanical condition of the distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical parts cause dwell variations which will affect ignition timing.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1) With the engine at idle speed, the vacuum hose disconnected, and with the test leads connected as in Paragraph, "Point Dwell Test", turn the T a chometer rpm Switch to the 5000 rpm position.

(2) Slowly increase the engine speed to 1500 rpm, then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing the dwell meter reading.

I f the dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees from initial reading between idle speed and 1500 rpm, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings or breaker plate is indicated. Remove distributor tor complete inspection and testing on a distributor tester.

N O T E : Dwell variation at speeds above 1500 rpm does not necessarily indicate distributor wear.

IMPORTANT

Dwell and gap of the points must both be within their specified tolerance at the same time. If this cannot be accomplished, it is probable that wrong points are installed or the cam lobes are badly worn.

IGNITION TIMING

To obtain maximum engine performance, the distributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to give the proper ignition timing.

The ignition timing test will indicate the timing of the spark at No. 1 cylinder at idle (only),

Test procedures are as follows: tor.

(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distribu-

(2) Connect the secondary lead to the Power Timing Light to No. 1 spark plug, red primary lead to positive terminal of battery and black primary lead to the negative battery terminal.

NOTE: Do not puncture the wires, boots or nipples with test probes. Always use adapters. Puncturing spark plug wires with a probe will damage the wires.

The probe can separate the conductor of linen cord impregnated with carbon and cause high resistance.

In addition, breaking the rubber insulation may permit secondary current to arc to ground.

(3) Start the engine and set the idle to 475-500 rpm, engine at normal operating temperature (transmission in neutral).

(4) Using a timing light, observe the position of timing mark on the crankshaft damper and check against the specifications.

(5) Loosen the distributor hold down lock plate screw and rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark on damper aligns with the specified "BTC" mark on the timing plate. Moving the distributor "clockwise" advances the timing and

"counterclockwise" retards the timing.

(6) Tighten the distributor hold down lock plate screw after the timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.

(7) When the ignition timing is correct, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor.

NOTE: As the engine speed is increased, the timing mark should move down on the vibration dampener below the pointer if advance units are functioning.

SEE?ICE PHOCEDUBES

DISTRIBUTOR a. Removal tor.

(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distribu-

(2) Disconnect the primary lead wire at the coil.

(3) Unfasten the distributor cap retaining clips and lift off the distributor cap.

(4) Scribe a mark on the edge of the distributor

MyMopar.com

842 ELECTRICAL A N D INSTRUMENTS

62x326

Fig. 78—Shaft and Bushing Wear Test housing to indicate the position of the rotor as reference when reinstalling the distributor.

(5) Eemove the distributor hold-down clamp screw and the clamp.

(6) Carefully lift the distributor from the engine. b.

Shaft and Bushing Wear Test

(1) Remove the distributor rotor.

(2) Clamp the ribbed section of the distributor housing lightly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and attach the dial indicator to the body of the distributor with the indicator plunger arm resting against the moveable breaker arm with the rubbing block of the breaker arm on the highest point of the cam lobe (Fig. 78).

(8) Place one end of a wire loop around the top of the distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other end of the wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of the indicator gauge. Be sure the wire loop on the shaft end is down on the shaft to insure a straight pull and also that the wire loop does not

Interfere with the indicator or holding bracket. Apply a five pound pull and read the movement of the plunger on the indicator dial. (Be sure the rubbing block of breaker arm is on the highest point of the cam lobe during this test). I f the plunger movement exceeds .006 inch, replace the bushings and/or distributor shaft, see "Distributor Disassembly". c. Disassembly (Figs. 79 and

80)

(1) Remove the distributor rotor.

N O T E : The distributor cap clamp springs on

Chrysler built distributors are held in place by peened metal around the openings and should not be removed.

(2) Remove the retainer attaching the vacuum advance unit to the breaker plate advance arm.

(3) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the vacuum advance unit to the distributor housing and remove the unit.

(4) Remove the primary lead wire and rubber grommet as an assembly. Push the grommet towards the inside of distributor to remove. Do not pull the wire.

(5) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the breaker plate to the housing and lift out the breaker plate, points and condenser as an assembly.

(6) Remove the oil wick from the distributor cam

(Fig. 81), Remove the spring clip from the oil well in the cam and remove the cam and yoke assembly and spacer.

I f the side play exceeds .006 Inch In the "Shaft and Bushing Wear Test", replace the bushings and/ or distributor shaft as follows:

(a) Remove the distributor drive collar retaining pin and slide the collar off the end of the shaft.

(b) Use a fine file to clean the burrs from around the pin hole in the shaft and remove the lower thrust washer.

(c) Push the shaft up and remove i t through the top of the distributor body. Remove the upper thrust washer.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 843

Fig. 79—Distributor—Disassembled View (Chrysler Built)

MyMopar.com

844 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

I

±^==5<-

C O N T A C T SET

FELT

CAM

-—YOKE

SPRING

CLIP

61xl56A

Fig. 81

—

Removing the Distributor Cam Felt Wick

(f) Soak the new bushings in light engine oil for approximately 15 minutes.

^ W E I G H T

- 5HAFT

B E A R I N G ^

. C L A M P

. L O C K W A S H E R

S C R E W

H O U S I N G

C L A M P ^ i

W A S H E R —'^T^

S C R E W

. L O C K R I N G

W A S H E R

X ' , * S C R E W v " ^ ~ ^ V A C U U M C H A M B E R

OILER

B U S H I N G

W A S H E R — '

C O L L A R

SPRING

X / ^ W A S H E R

" * >

G A S K E T - Jf'jL

P L U G - '

Fig. 80—Distributor—Disassembled View (Auto-Lite) wick.

(d) Eemove the shaft oiler and lift out the oiler

CAUTION

On Chrysler Built distributors, do not drive the bushings out of the housing.

(e) Remove the upper bushing with Tool C-3744

(Fig. 82) by threading the tap securely into the bushing. Place the spacer over the tap. Install the tool nut and, while holding the tap, tighten the tool nut to remove the bushing. Invert the housing and remove the lower bushing in the same manner.

On AutoLite built distributors, place the housing in an arbor press and press out the upper and lower bushings from the bottom of the housing using

Driver Tool C-3041.

TOOL (DRIVER)

60x697A

Fig. 82—Removing the Distributor Housing

Upper Bushing

PRESS RAM

TOOL (ADAPTER)

61x151

Fig. 83 — Installing the Distributor Housing

Upper Bushing

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 845

(g) Position, the- new upper bushing w i t h the hole in the bushing up and in line with the oil hole in the housing, then press the bushing into the distributor housing with Tool C-3041 and adapter (Fig.

83). The bushing will measure .094 inch below the top of the housing bore for AutoLite distributors.

For the Chrysler built distributors use Tool C-3041 with the flat face of adapter contacting the bushing then press the bushing into the distributor until top of bushing is 1.613 inches from top machined face of distributor housing. Place a straight-edge on machined surface of housing and measure from the bottom face of the straight-edge to the top of the bushing. Invert the housing and install the other bushing (Fig. 84) flush with the face of the distributor base.

(h) Insert a

%

2

inch rod through the housing oi l er hole to see i f the hole in the bushing indexes with the oiler hole in the housing. I f the rod cannot be inserted through the housing and the bushing, drill a Vg" hole through the upper bushing by drilling through the oil wick hole. Remove burrs caused by the drilling operation.

(i) Install the burnishing tool part of C-3041

Tool set and force the burnisher through both the bushings (Fig. 85). The correct bushing inside the diameter is .4995 to .5000 inch. d. Assembly

(1) Test the operation of the centrifugal w r eight and inspect the weight springs for distortion. Lubricate the governor weights.

(2) Inspect all the bearing surfaces and pivot pins for roughness, binding or excessive looseness.

\3) Install the cam spacer, chamfered end down on the distributor shaft.

TOOL

(BURNISHER)

Fig. 85

—

UPPER BUSHING

61x149

Burnishing the Distributor Housing Bushings

(4) Slide the cam and yoke on the distributor shaft, engage the weight lugs with the slots in the yoke (Fig. 86). Install the cam retaining spring clip. Be sure i t is properly seated in the groove of the distributor shaft.

(5) Lubricate and install the two concave upper thrust washers for AutoLite distributors or a single flat thrust washer for Chrysler-built distributors.

Position the washers on the distributor shaft and slide the shaft into the distributor body. Position the lower thrust washer and drive the collar on the lower end of the shaft. Install the retainer pin.

(6) Install the oiler wick and oiler.

(7) Install the breaker plate assembly. Align the condenser lead, breaker point spring, primary lead and install the attaching screws.

(8) Install the felt wick in the top of the distributor cam.

(9) Attach the vacuum advance unit arm to the breaker plate and install the retainer. Install the vacuum unit attaching screws and washers.

(10) Test the breaker arm spring tension, and adjust the contact gap.

(11) Lubricate the felt pad in the top of the dis-

GOVERNOR WEIGHT UPPER THRUST WASHER

61x150

Fig. 84 — Installing the Distributor Housing

Lower Bushing Fig. 86—Distributor Shaft Assembly

MyMopar.com

8-46 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig.

87 —

Testing

the Breaker Arm Spring Tension tributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of light engine oil and install the rotor.

TESTING BREA1ER ABM SPROfG TENSION

Fig. 88

—Adjusting the Point

Clearance with a Dial Indicator

(1) Hook a spring scale Tool MTU-36 on the breaker arm and pull in a straight line at right angles to the point surfaces (Fig. 87). Take a reading as the points start to separate under the slow and steady pull of the scale. The spring tension should be 17 to 21.5 ounces. I f the reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of the breaker arm spring, and slide the end of the spring in or out, as necessary.

(2) Tighten the screw and measure the spring tension,

The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that the stationary bracket can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise, i t will be difficult to set the points accurately. After setting the points to correct the gap, tighten the lock screw.

DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION

NOTE:

Spring tension that is too great, will cause excessive wear on the distributor cam and on the nylon block of the movable breaker arm. Spring tension that is too weak, is unable to keep the points in contact with each other when they close. This

is particularly true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring.

INSTALLING AND ALIGNING CONTACT POINTS

(1) Remove the old contact points and install a new set.

NOTE: Touching the contact point faces with fingers during installation will cause burning of points during operation.

(2) Align

the

contacts to obtain contact in

the center of the points, by bending the stationary contact bracket only.

Never bend

the movable

arm

to obtain alignment.

(3) After aligning the contact points, readjust the point clearance to specifications using a dial Indicator (Fig. 88).

(4) Test the dwell angle to show proper degree of closure. See Paragraph, "Distributor Point Dwell".

(1) Add 3 to 5 drops of SAE 10 W oil to the oiler on the outside of distributor base.

(2) Lubricate the felt pad under the rotor i n the top of the distributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of SAE

10W oil.

(3) Wipe old grease from surface of the breaker cam. Apply a light film of new distributor cam lubricant number 1473595.

Do not over-lubricate, keep oil

and grease away from the breaker points..

TESTING DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE a.

Centrifugal Advance Curve

Note the model number of the distributor and refer to the specifications before making this test.

Mount the distributor assembly (less cap and rotor) in a reliable stroboscope-type distributor tester and proceed with tests as follows:

NOTE; Clamp around the rib section of the distributor housing. The bottom section of the distributor housing Is not a machined surface and concentricity would be affected, causing a wobble.

(1) Turn the Tach-Dwell switch to-the 8 "LORE" position and the motor switch to the correct direction of rotation. Refer to "Distributor Advance Specifications" in this manual.

(2) Turn the battery switch "ON".

(3) Regulate the tester speed control to operate

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 847 the distribution at 200 distributor rpm.

(4) Hold the distributor breaker plate in the full retard position and align the "0" of the distributor tester degree ring with any one of the arrow flashes.

(5) Kegulate the tester speed control to operate the distributor at speeds called for under "Specifications" and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.

(6) I f the advance is not according to specifications, corrections can be made by bending the primary and secondary spring on the cam yoke, to increase or decrease the spring tension. The governor spring tabs can be reached through the access hole at the breaker plate. Rotate the shaft until the proper spring and tab lines up with the access holes. I n sert a screwdriver blade through the access hole and bend the spring tab toward the distributor cam to decrease spring tension and advance the spark, or away from the distributor cam to increase the spring tension and retard the spark.

NOTE: The light tension spring controls the lower end of the advance curve, and the heavier spring controls the upper end of the advance curve. d. Vacuum Diaphragm Leak Test

With the distributor mounted in the distributor tester and with the vacuum- unit attached to the distributor, proceed as follows:

(1) Place the thumb over the end of the vacuum pump hose and adjust the regulator control knob to give a reading 20 inches with hose closed off to be sure tester hose does not leak.

(2) Attach the vacuum pump hose to the tube on the vacuum unit. The vacuum gauge should hold on maximum vacuum obtainable i f no leaks exist.

(3) Observe the breaker plate while performing the leak test to test response of the breaker plate.

There should be instant response to the pull of the diaphragm, moving the plate without a drag or bind.

(4) I f leakage is indicated, replace the vacuum unit assembly.

(2)

If

the vacuum advance is above or below specifications, replace the vacuum advance unit. Retest the vacuum advance curve.

MSTALLATION OF DISTRIBUTOR

(1) Position the distributor on the engine. Align the rotor with marks previously scribed on the distributor housing.

(2) Engage the tongue of the distributor shaft with the slot in the distributor and oil pump drive gear.

N O T E : If the engine has been cranked while 'the distributor is removed, it will be necessary to establish the proper relationship between the distributor shaft and the No.

1

piston position as follows:

(3) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top of the compression stroke.

(4) Rotate the rotor to the position of the number one distributor cap terminal.

(5) Lower the distributor into the opening, connect the primary lead and install the distributor cap.

Make sure all high tension wires "snap" firmly in thfc cap towers. Install the distributor hold-down clamp screw. Tighten the screw finger tight.

(6) Connect the secondary lead of a Power Timing Light to the No. 1 spark plug (using proper adapter). Connect the red primary lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the black primary lead to the negative battery terminal.

(7) Start and operate the engine at 475-500 rpm.

Rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark and the pointer are in alignment. (Moving the distributor housing "clockwise" advances the timing and "counterclockwise" retards the timing.

(8) Tighten the distributor clamp screw after the timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.

(9)

If

the timing is correct, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor and remove the timing light from the engine. c.

Vacuum Advance Curve

Connect the tester vacuum pump hose to the distributor vacuum advance unit and perform operations

1 through 5 under "Centrifugal Advance Curve".

Then proceed as follows:

(1) Turn the tester vacuum pump "ON". Adjust the vacuum pump regulator to vacuum test specifications. See "Specifications" and observe the arrow flashes on the tester degree ring to determine the degrees of advance.

SPARK PLUGS

Cleaning and Inspection

Remove the spark plugs. Examine the firing ends of the plugs for evidence of oil fouling, gas fouling, burned or overheating conditions. Clean and reset the gaps to .035 inch.

N O T E : Use new gaskets when Installing the spark plugs, tighten plugs to 30 foot-pounds torque.

Inspect the spark plug cables, coil secondary (high

MyMopar.com

8-48 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS tension) cable, nipples and cups for cracks, wear and fraying. Always use the neoprene insulating nipples whenever i t becomes necessary to replace high tension cables or nipples. Inspect for loose terminals.

IGNITION COIL

The ignition coil is designed to operate with an external ballast resistor. When testing the coil for output, include the resistor in tests.

Inspect the coil for external leaks and arcing. A l ways make two tests when testing the coil. One when the coil is cold, the other after the coil has been warmed up.

Test the coil according to the coil tester manufacturer's instructions. Test the coil primary resistance. Test the ballast resistor resistance. Test the coil secondary resistance. Replace any coil or ballast resistor that does not meet specifications.

LIGHTING SYSTEM

DUAL HEADLAMPS

The dual headlamp system consists of four sealed beam headlamps.

The two outer lamps (Fig. 89) are of the two filament type for low and high beam and are marked by a numeral 2 moulded in the lamp lens.

The two inner lamps have only one filament and are marked with a numeral 1 molded in the glass.

The lamps cannot be installed wrong, as the number one (1) lamps have a two blade terminal connector and the number two (2) lamp has a three blade terminal connector, with a wider spacing than the two blade terminal connector.

The number one (1) lamp provides the high intensity "reach" down the highway and the off focus filament in the number 2 lamp provides the "body" light which illuminates the side of the road, ditches, etc. gasoline normally carried in the tank per gallon).

(6 *4 pounds

(9) There should be no other load in the vehicle other than the driver or a substituted weight of approximately 150 pounds placed in the driver's position.

(10) Remove the headlamp front trim panel. Do not remove the seal beam retainer rims.

(11) Thoroughly clean the headlamp lenses.

(12) Measure the aimer calibration. b. Compensating and Mounting the Aimers

(1) For mechanical aim the slope of the floor should be known.

(2) Place the transit on the floor in line with a vertical center line of the right front wheel (Fig.

90). Place the split image target in like position at the right rear wheel.

(3) Adjust the range screw on the transit until the target split image coincides or merges into one unbroken line.

AIMING THE HEADLAMPS a. Pre-Aiming Instructions

(1) Test the dimmer switch for faulty operation.

(2) Test the high beam indicator: Indicates that high beam is in operation when lighted.

(3) For badly rusted or defective headlamp assemblies : These conditions must be corrected before a satisfactory adjustment can be made.

(4) Place the vehicle on a level floor.

(5) Measure the front suspension height: Adjust to specifications as necessary.

(6) Inspect the tire inflation.

(7) Rock the vehicle sideways to allow the vehicle to assume its normal position.

(8) I f the gasoline tank is not full, place a weight in the trunk of vehicle to simulate the weight of the Fig. 89

—

— I I^DUMnU

O U T B O A R D •••

Headlamp Arrangement (Typical)

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 849

Fig.

90

—

Determining the Slope of the Floor (Typical)

NOTE: Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the transit and that target image is centered in the viewing port of the transit.

(4) Turn the dial on the side of the transit until the bubble in the spirit level is centered.

(5) When the bubble is centered, note "plus" or

"minus" reading on the compensator scale. This figure indicates the degree of slope of the floor and must be transferred to each aimer as follows:

(6) With a screwdriver, turn the adjusting slot of the floor level compensator in each aimer, until the correct plus or minus figure (or fractional part) appears in the proper window (Fig. 91).

TESTING AIMER FOR CALIBRATION {Fig. 92)

(1) Using a carpenter or stcne mason level of known accuracy., locate a true vertical plate glass window or smooth surface.

(2) Sez the DOWN-UP pointer :m DOWN 2.

Fig. 92 — Inspecing the Aimer for Calibration

(3) Set the RIGHT-LEFT pointer and the floor level compensator at "0".

(4) Secure the aimers to the glass or smooth surface three to five feet apart so that the split image targets can be located in the viewing ports.

(5) I f the bubble is centered in the vial, the vertical calibration is correct. I f the bubble is not centered, make the down-up adjustment by rotating level adjusting screw, until the bubble is centered in the spirit level.

(6) The horizontal aim is correct i f the targets on opposite aimers are aligned in the viewing ports.

I f the targets are not aligned in the viewing ports, rotate the mirror adjusting screw until the target split image becomes aligned. c. Mounting and Adjusting the Aimers (Fig. 93)

(1) While holding an aimer in alignment with the lens of one outer headlamp, bring the aimer up to and against the headlamp lens.

NOTE: Make certain that the headlamp lens pads

Fig. 91

—

Adjusting the Floor Level Compensator in the Aimers Fig. 93—Mounting and Adjusting the Aimers (Typical)

MyMopar.com

8-50 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS are making full contact with the aimer mounting flange and that the aimer target Is facing inboard,

(2) Push the release lever forward (to expel air from the suction cup) and while holding the aimer firmly against the headlamp aiming pads, slowly pull the release lever back until the spring lock engages in the slot.

(3) Mount the second aimer on the other outer headlamp, in the same manner.

(4) On each aimer, set the pointer to the numeral

2 on the DOWN side of the DOWN UP scale.

(5) On each aimer position the pointer of the

RIGHT LEFT scale at ZERO..

TESTING HEADLAMP AIM

Follow the instructions as outlined in Paragraph

"Aiming the Headlamps" and proceed as follows:

NOTE; Do not remove the headlamp rims.

Fig. 95—Headlamp Adjustment Points (Imperial) centered. I f DOWN or UP portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lamps should be aimed.

DOWN UP

No. 1 UNIT 44 to S% 0

No. 2 UNIT % to

31/2

0 a. Horizontal Test

Turn the RIGHT LEFT scale knob until the split image is in alignment. I f the RIGHT or LEFT portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lamps should be aimed.

ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS (Figs. 94 and 95) a. Horizontal Adjustment!

Values given represent inches at 25 feet.

(1) With the pointer of the RIGHT-LEFT Scale still set at ZERO, sight through the aimer viewing port. b.

RIGHT LEFT

No.

1 UNIT 4 4

No, 2 UNIT 4 0

Vertical Test

Turn DOWN-UP scale knob until the spirit level is

Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the aimer and that the target image is centered in the viewing port of the aimer.

(2) While sighting through the viewing port of the aimer, turn the horizontal adjusting screw

(Figs. 94 and 95) on the headlamp until the split image target line merges into one unbroken line. To remove the backlash, be sure to make a find adjustment by turning the headlamp horizontal adjusting screw in a clockwise direction.

(3) Make the horizontal adjustment on the other outboard headlamp in the same manner.

(4) Remove the aimers, from the outboard headlamps, by releasing the spring lock at the rear (bottom) of the aimer and pushing the release lever forward. Do not attempt to remove the aimers by pulling them away from the headlamp lens — slide the suction cup downward and away from the lens.

Fig.

94 —Headlamp Adjustment Points (Chrysler) b. Vertical Adjustment

(1) Turn the vertical adjusting screw on the headlamp in a counter-clockwise direction to bring the bubble of the spirit level on the aimer to the vehicle side of center. Use care to avoid disturbing the installed position of the aimers. Then turn the

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-51 screw clockwise until the bubble is centered for correct aim and elimination of backlash.

(2) Make the vertical adjustment on the other outer unit in the same manner.

(3) Recheck the target alignment on each side and readjust the horizontal aim, i f necessary.

Proceed to adjust the inner units by following the instructions as outlined for the outer headlamps.

Install the headlamp trim panels, when the adjustments have been performed.

(1) Remove the screws from the headlamp panel and remove the panel.

(2) Remove the screw from the interior retaining ring, and remove the ring.

NOTE: Do not disturb the headlamp aiming screws.

(3) Pull out the sealed-beam unit and disconnect the connector, pulling it straight off.

(4) Install the new sealed-beam unit.

(5) Install the unit retaining ring and headlamp panel.

HEADLAMP SEALED-BEAM REPLACEMENT

Lens, filament and reflector are sealed into one unit which can be removed as follows:

NOTE: Each lamp in the dual headlamp can be removed in the above manner.

assembly

H O I N S

TESTING (Horns "A" and "B")

Touch a jumper wire from relay "S" terminal to a

.ground. I f the horn blows, the difficulty is in the horn button contact ring or in the wire from "S" terminal to the horn button. I f the horn fails to blow, connect a jumper wire from "B" to " H " terminal, now i f the horns operate, the relay is defective.

If the horns fail to operate, the difficulty is in the wire to the horns, in the horns or wire to horn relay "B*' terminal.

ADJUSTING

Horn "A"

(1) Disconnect the connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating.

(2) Remove the horn and bracket assembly. Do not remove the horn from the bracket. (The bracket is retained to the horn by a self-threading screw.)

(3) Pry the cover off (Fig. 96).

(4) Turn the adjusting nut counter-clockwise unt i l there is no vibration (sound).

(5) Turn the adjusting nut clockwise, approximately turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn nut while horn is blowing.

NOTE: The adjustment will only clear up the sound and cannot change the horn tone frequency.

(6) Check the horn wire leads, make sure they are securely wrapped on the horn solenoid coil leads

(Fig. 97).

If the lead wires are loose, solder them securely to the coil leads. Use resin core solder.

(7) Check the horn contacts. I f the contacts are badly burned, check the resistor for continuity. I f

RESISTOR

ADJUSTMENT STUD NUT

Fig. 96

—

Removing the Cover (Horn "A"

62x437

62x435

TERMINAL

Fig. 97—Cover Removed (Horn "A")

MyMopar.com

8-52 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS the contacts are separated, when the adjusting nut is removed from the adjusting stud; the contacts have taken a permanent set and horn should be replaced.

(8) Connect a test ammeter between the positive post of a 12 volt battery and the horn terminal post.

Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post to the horn base. Turn the adjusting screw to obtain a reading of eight amperes minimum to ten amperes maximum at 12.5 volts. Must not exceed ten amperes maximum.

Horn "B"

(1) Disconnect the connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating.

(2) Remove the horn and bracket assembly. Do not remove the horn from the bracket. (The bracket is retained to the horn by a self-threading screw).

(3) Turn the tone adjuster with a suitable spanner wrench (Fig. 98) to turning i t counter-clockwise until there is no vibration (sound).

(4) Turn the adjusting nut clockwise, approximately 14 turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn adjuster while horn is blowing.

Fig. 98—-Adjusting the Horn ("B")

NOTE: The adjustment will only clear up the sound and cannot change the horn tone frequency.

(5) Connect a test ammeter between the positive post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post.

Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post to the horn base. Turn the adjusting screw to obtain a reading of six amperes minimum to eight amperes maximum at 12.5 volts. Must not exceed eight amperes maximum.

ELECTHIC LOCKING D O O l LOC1S

(SY

-1

ONLY)

The electric door lock is operated by a push-pull double acting solenoids attached by a connecting rod to the door latch locking lever. By pressing the single pole double throw switch mounted on the right and left front door t r i m panel, a solenoid in each of the four doors is actuated, moving the latch locking lever into the lock or unlock position.

All doors may be locked or unlocked either mechanically or electrically. To lock mechanically push the front door handle to the forward position and depress the rear door locking button. To lock electrically depress the switch to lock or lift upward to unlock the doors.

SOLENOID a. Removal

Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect the lock to solenoid connecting rod at the solenoid. Disconnect wires and remove solenoid. b. Installation

Fasten the solenoid to the door and connect up the wires. Tighten the solenoid mounting screws finger tight. Reconnect the lock connecting the rod to the solenoid. Adjust the solenoid by moving up or down in the slotted holes, so that the solenoid will push and pull the lever far enough to accomplish locking and unlocking. Reinstall the trim panel.

ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS

A master switch group, on the left front door, op- breakers are above the left front cowl panel. The erates all the windows and the individual switches normal operating amperage draw per window is 12 are located on their respective doors. The circuit to 16 amperes for all models.

MyMopar.com

ELEC7TRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-53 a. Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery and remove the garnish molding.

(2) Remove the door t r i m panel and disconnect the wires from switch.

(3) Remove the clips from the regulator pins holding the lower glass channel.

(4) Raise the glass manually and prop in the up position.

(5) Remove the regulator attaching screws, pivot the guide retaining pin and remove the motor and regulator through the opening in the door.

(6) I f i t is necessary to replace the gear box, remove the regulator counter-balance spring.

NOTE: Be sure to remove the counter-balance spring before disassembling the gear box. -

The gear box is replaced as an assembly only and is lubricated at assembly. No further lubrication is required. b. Installation

(1) Place the motor and regulator through the door opening and insert the pivot arm pin into the guide on the inner panel.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

(2) Install the regulator screws finger tight. DO

NOT tighten at this time.

(3) Remove the window prop and lower the glass.

(4) Insert the control arms into the glass channel, using a leather washer on each side of the channel and secure with a clip.

(5) Connect the wires to the motor and connect the battery.

(6) Operate-the window several times and stop the glass halfway.

(7) Tighten the regulator screws.

(8) Check the glass alignment.

(9) Connect an ammeter into the electrical circuit and operate the window. The ammeter reading should be constant without fluctuation as follows: approximately 14 amperes, all models except rear doors of four-door hard top models, and approximately 20 amperes for the rear doors of the fourdoor hard top models. I f the ammeter reading fluctuates, there is a bind in the glass or in the linkage. The down stop should be adjusted so that the window is flush with the garnish moulding. Install the trim panel, garnish molding, and other parts.

POWER SEATS

The power seat can be moved six ways — forward, backward, upward, downward and tilt. The horizontal travel is five inches and horizontal plane of seat track is inclined eleven degrees. The vertical travel is one inch at front and two inches at rear.

TRACK

\ SLAVE UN'I

KNOB-

WASHER

PIN

[COTTER PIN w

^

O

SCREW AND WASHER

RELAY

COUPLING

LEVER AND SHAFT

R

PIN CABLE-

DRIVE UNIT

C O V E R

GUARD ^

S P R | N G

S T O P

PLATE

CABLE

58x297A TUBE "

Fig. 99—Power Seat Arrangement

MyMopar.com

8-54 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

The available t i l t is 8 degrees forward and 7

1

/£ degrees rearward from neutral.

OPERATION

The motor operates a gear drive train which supplies power to the slave units,, located in the seat tracks, through flexible cables (Fig. 99). The control switch is on the left side of front seat and is wired through a relay to a 40 ampere circuit breaker, located next to the window lift circuit breakerabove the left cowl panel.

The wire from the bulkhead disconnect supplies power to the circuit breaker. On vehicles equipped with electric window lifts the power is supplied by a brass jumper parallel with the window lift circuit breakers. Power is supplied to the relay from the circuit breaker.

Six wires go to the switch. One used for power, two for motor field current, which also actuates the relay for motor armature current and three wires attach to solenoids controlling the movement of the front riser, rear riser and horizontal movement.

The right and left tracks are each replaced as an assembly only. They cannot be adjusted and are not interchangeable.

FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTER a. Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the four mounting stud nuts which hold the front seat to the adjuster and tilt the complete seat back assembly forward.

(3) Disconnect the control wires at the 6 -way connector.

Fig. 101—Removing the Drive Assembly from the

Left Slave Unit (Typical)

(4) Remove the front seat and cushion assembly.

(5)

(6)

Disconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire.

Remove the seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the adjuster. b. Installation

(1) Install the adjuster and stud nuts.

(2) Reconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire.

(3) Install the front seat and cushion assembly.

(4) Reconnect the control wires to the switch and tighten the mounting stud nuts securely.

(5) Reconnect the battery ground cable.

FLEHBLE CABLES a. Removal

(1) Remove the front seat and cushion assembly.

(2) Disconnect the red feed wire.

(3) Remove the retainer plate that holds the right side tubes to the drive assembly.

(4) Remove the left seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the guide and the drive assembly

(Fig. 100).

NOTE: Be careful not to bend or damage the right side tubes when sliding the tubes out of the drive assembly.

(5) Pull the flexible cables from the right side tubes.

(6) Remove the bolts that hold the motor and drive assembly to the left guide bracket.

(7) Remove the drive assembly with tubes from the left slave unit (Fig. 101).

(8) Remove the flexible cables from the tubes.

Fig. 100—Removing the Left Guide and Drive Assembly b. Installation

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

8-55

"DRIVE CABLES 58x189 tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the slave unit.

(3) Position the drive unit on the left side tubes.

Make sure the flexible cables seat in the slot in the drive unit.

(4) Bolt the drive unit to the guide bracket.

(5) Place the right side flexible cables in the right side tubes.

(6) Position the left guide and drive assembly on the right side tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the drive assembly.

(7) Install the right side tubes retainer plate.

(8) Bolt the left guide assembly to the floor.

(9) Install the seat and cushion assembly.

(10) Reconnect the red feed wire and check the operation of the seat.

Fig. 102—installing the Cable Tubes in the Slave Unit

MOTOR ASSEMBLY

CAUTION

The seat guides should be in the up and forward position when installing the cable. Make sure both guides are at the same position (in alignment).

(1) Place the three left cable tubes into the left slave unit (Fig. 102).

(2) With the shortest tube on the inside and longest on the outside, install the flexible cables in the a. Removal

(1) Disconnect the motor wires at the relay.

(2) Remove the two nuts holding the motor to the drive unit.

(3) Remove the motor from the drive unit and rubber coupling.

(4) Remove the relay from the motor. b.

Installation

DRIVE ASSEMBLY

58x749A

SOLENOID COIL SPRINGS

COIL GROUND WIRE

INSULATING

WASHER

Fig.

103

—

Solenoid and Coil (Disassembled View)

COIL PLATE

MyMopar.com

8-56 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

S L A V E

UNIT

I B /

I N S U L A T I N G ^ /

W A S H E R

0

PLATE S C R E W

H O R I Z O N T A L

RISER C A B L E

Fig. 104

—

Seat Track and Motor (Disassembled View)

58 x 750A

(1) Install the relay on the motor.

(2) Install the rubber coupling on the motor shaft

(Fig. 103).

(3) Align the rubber coupling with the slot on the slave unit shaft.

(4) Install the motor and reconnect the wires to the relay.

DRIVE UNIT AND SOLING© ASSEMBLY a. Disassembly

(1) Remove the drive unit from the seat assembly. Refer to, "Removal and Installation of Flexible

Cables".

(2) Remove the two screws holding the plate and solenoids to the drive unit (Fig. 104).

(3) Remove the plate and solenoid assembly. Be careful not to lose the three springs under the solenoid.

(4) To remove the solenoid coils, bend back on the tabs of the solenoid cover. Unsolder the coil ground wire at the cover tab and remove the coil cover from the coil.

(5) Remove the screws holding the cover on the drive unit.

(6) Remove the cover and lift out the clutch lever and shaft. b. Assembly

(1) Install the clutch lever and shaft. Make sure the lever is properly seated on the drive collar.

(2) Install the cover and screws.

(3) Install the coil in the coil cover with the coil ground wire next to one of the cover tabs.

H O R I Z O N T A L R A C K

F R O N T R A C K

REAR RACK*

S L A V E UNIT

C A P

S E A T G U I D E C L E V I S P I N

58x748 F R O N T R A C K C L E V I S P I N - .

G U I D E A S S Y .

Fig. 105 — Removing the Sleeve Unit

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-57

(4) Position the cover tabs in the slots on the coil plate.

(5) Bend over the tabs and resolder the coil ground wire to the tab and plate.

(6) Install the three solenoid springs and position the solenoids over the springs.

(7) Fasten the solenoids to the drive unit.

(8) Install the drive unit. Refer to "Removal and

Installation of Flexible Cables".

SLAVE UNIT a.

Removed (Fig. 105)

(1) Remove the drive unit and the cables. Refer to "Removal and Installation of Flexible Cables".

The seat guide should be in the up and forward position.

(2) Remove the long clevis pin from the front of the guide (Fig. 106).

(3) Remove the front rack clevis pin.

(4) To facilitate the removal of the slave unit, remove the slave unit cap.

NOTE: Be careful not to lose the springs under the cap. The springs are between the racks and the slave cap.

(5) Remove the nuts holding the slave unit to the guide.

(6) Remove the slave unit. b. Installation

(1) Position the slave unit over the studs on the guide base.

(2) Position the racks in the slave unit so they will be in the up and forward position.

(3) Fasten the racks to the guide assembly.

(4) Position the springs on the racks and install the slave unit cap.

(5) Install the slave unit mounting nuts.

(6) Install the front guide clevis pin (Fig. 106).

(7) Install the cables in their slots and try operation of guide.

Install drive unit and cables. Refer to "Removal and Installation of Flexible Cables".

WINDSHIELD WIPEES

The single speed wiper motor (Fig. 107) is connected to the wiper switch and from the wiper switch " B " terminal to the "ACC" accessory terminal of the ignition-starter switch so that the wiper motor is actuated only when the ignition switch key is turned to the right or left position. The variable speed wiper motor (Fig 107 and 108) is connected from the wiper motor to the wiper switch and from a circuit breaker to the ignition switch. Refer to the

"Wiring Diagrams" at the back of this Electrical

Group. The single speed wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker built into the wiper switch. The variable speed motor is protected by a circuit breaker which is attached to the " B " terminal of the switch.

The variable speed motor has an "off glass parking" feature which is accomplished by reversing the motor and the use of parking cams at the pivot pins of the intermediate crank arm. When the switch is turned to the "off" position, the motor reverses direction and at the same time the parking cams rotate 180 degrees, lengthening the linkage slightly to park the blades against the windshield moulding.

The linkage shortens when the motor runs in the wiping direction.

WIPER BLADE ADJUSTMENT

To proper position the wiper blades, adjust the motor switch plate so that the blades park as low as possible. Loosen the blade arms at the pivots. Position the blades against the windshield moulding on the variable speed motors and tighten the pivot attaching nuts. Position the blades of the single speed motors one inch from the windshield moulding.

MyMopar.com

8-58 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig. 107—Windshield Wiper —Variable and Single Speed (Disassembled)

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL A N D INSTRUMENTS 8-59

SEBVICE PHOCEDUHES

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

Removal

(1) Remove the glove compartment door.

(2) Remove the glove compartment.

(3)

Remove the nuts attaching the wiper motor bracket to the cowl panel and to the instrument panel brace.

(4) Disconnect the wires at the wiper motor.

(5) Disconnect the links at the pivot cranks. The clips are removed by lifting the top tab and sliding it sideways out of engagement with the groove in the pivot crank pin.

(6) Remove the spacing washer and remove the link from the pivot crank.

(7) Slide the complete wiper with the links far enough towards the left so that the right hand link will clear the glove compartment opening in the instrument panel and remove assembly, as shown in

Figure 109. Use care so as not to bend the links. and the spacing washers between the link crank arm and lever.

DISASSEMBLY OF THE WIPER MOTOR a. Single Speed Motor (1 So Equipped)

(1) Remove the switch plate first.

(2) Remove the motor crank nut, washers and motor crank arm.

(3)

L i f t out the nylon gear, noting position of the gear.

(4) Remove the end head through bolts and carefully pull off the end head. The armature can then be removed. b. Variable Speed Motor

(1) Remove the end head through bolts and pull out the end head using care so as not to break the lead wire to the brush holder.

(2) Remove the switch plate and the cover screws.

(3) Remove the crank arm nut, washers, crank arm, gear and armature in that order.

DISASSEMBLY OF THE LINES

(1) Remove the clip holding the left-hand link to the crank arm.

(2) Remove the bevel washers and the link.

(3)

Remove the parking cam and the spring release.

(4) Remove the coil spring by spreading the ends of the spring.

(5) Disassemble the right-hand link in the same manner after removing the crankarm to lever nut

INSPECTION

(1) Thoroughly inspect the motor parts for wear, corrosion or damage.

(2) Clean the armature commutator with 00 or

000 sandpaper or i f necessary, turn down the commutator.

(3) Replace worn or oil soaked brushes.

(4) Check the armature and crankshaft in their respective bushings and replace worn parts i f any looseness is detected. The end play in the armature shaft is controlled by a thin thrust washer in the end plate.

AIMATUiE

SPECIAL

CHUCK

Fig. 109

—

Removing the Windshield Wiper Motor and Link Assembly (Typical)

UNDERCUTTING

TOOL

Fig. 110—Refacing the Commutator

4 5 x 1 0 1 9

MyMopar.com

8-60 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

(5) Inspect the gears for worn or broken teeth and replace those showing damage or excessive wear.

1EFAC1NG COMMUTATOR

I f the armature commutator is rough or out of round, burned or the bakelite material is even with or extends above the surface of the commutator bars, the commutator should be turned down. Eemove only enough metal to provide a clean smooth surface.

Operation can be performed on a suitable lathe or by using Tool C-770, as shown in Fig. 110.

UNDERCUTTING BAKELITE

Undercut the bakelite segments to a depth of %

6 inch, using Tool C-770 with special blade SP-839, as shown in Figure 111. Be sure to undercut the bakelite squarely. After undercutting, polish the commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper to remove burred edges. wiper.

CAUTION:

Be sure the commutator is clean and free from oil or grease. A dirty, greasy commutator will cause a high resistance and greatly impair the efficiency of the

Fig. 112—End Play Adjustment

Connect the positive battery to the "R" terminal of the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is turned "on" and go out when turned "off."

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH a. Single Speed Motor (If So Equipped)

The switch contains a built-in circuit breaker to protect the motor and is serviced only as an assembly.

To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram at the back of the "Electrical Group," disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch from the instrument panel. Connect a test lamp between the

" B " terminal of the switch and the negative battery post. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the "P" terminal of the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is in the "off" position and go out when the switch is turned to the

"on" position. b. Variable Speed Motor

The switch contains a bar resistance plate which provides a means of controlling the amount of current flow to the motor field as the switch control shaft is rotated. I n addition, the switch is designed to provide a circuit to the motor to reverse the direction of the current to the field winding thus providing a means of reversing the armature. A separate circuit breaker is attached to the " B " terminal of the switch to protect the motor.

To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram at the back of the "Electrical Group," disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the case of the switch and another jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the " F I " terminal of the switch. Connect a test lamp between the battery negative terminal and the "B" terminal of the switch.

Lamp should light when switch is turned on and gradually dim as switch is turned "off." The switch is turned "off." The switch is serviced only as an assembly.

Fig. 111—Undercutting the Bakelite

END PLAY ADJUSTMENT

To adjust the armature shaft end play turn the adjustment screw in until it bottoms and back off ^ turn (Fig. 112).

BENCH TESTING MOTOR before bench testing a motor, the lead wires should be inspected for opens or shorts, and for poor connections at the switch plate.

MyMopar.com

a. Single Speed Motor (If So Equipped)

Connect the battery positive terminal to the wiper motor ground strap. Connect the black and blue wires of the motor to the negative battery terminal. Motor should continue to run. Remove black wire with blue connected. The motor should park.

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

INTERMEDIATE

CRANK ARM

8-61 b. Variable Speed Motor

Connect the yellow wire to the motor ground strap.

Connect the battery positive terminal to the motor ground strap. Connect the red and black wires to the battery negative terminal. The motor should run in the wipe direction.

To park the motor, connect the blue and yellow wire to the battery negative terminal. Connect the battery positive terminal to the motor ground strap.

Connect the red wire to the motor ground strap. Momentarily touch the black wire to the yellow and blue wire. The motor should park.

ASSEMBLY OF WIPER MOTOR

Make sure the gear teeth are adequately covered with long fibre grease.

The correct indexing of the contact plate (constant speed motor) or the contact follower (variable speed motor) on the nylon gear is important. After the armature, nylon gear, and crank arm are installed, index the contact plate (constant speed motor) on the nylon gear with the slot pointing in the same direction as the motor crank arm. Install the contact follower (variable speed motor) with open end pointing in the same direction as the motor crank arm.

PARKING CAM

(ECCENTRIC)

55?)07}

Fig. 114—Link Arm Installed (Variable Speed) the crank arm. Install the crank pivot coil spring on the pivot. Install the spring release.

Install the parking cam to index with the spring release and engage the spring ends, between the release and parking cam in the openings at point of index (Fig. 113).

I f the intermediate crank is held so that the letter

" L " is visible, install the cam release so that the letter " L " can be seen from that position. The opposite side will show three letters "R."

Install the spring washer, convex surface toward the cam assembly. Install the link arm with the stop projection on the link arm toward the cam assembly.

Install the retaining bolts and nut (Fig. 114). Assemble the left link and cam assembly in the same manner locking in place with a clip.

ASSEMBLY OF WIPER LINK

—

VARIABLE SPEED

Install the spring washer, concave surface toward

LINK SPRING

WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR INSTALLATION

(1) Enter the wiper motor, bracket and links through the glove box opening and attach the link arms to the pivot crank pins.

(2) Install the spring washer and lock clips on the crank pins.

(3) Install the wiper motor and bracket attaching

(4) Adjust the wiper parking position by moving the wiper motor parking switch plate.

(5) Connect the wires at the wiper motor.

(6) Install the glove compartment and the compartment door.

REPLACING WIPER PIVOT

Remove the wiper blade. Disconnect the link from the pivot. Remove the pivot retaining plate pivot and gasket.

LINK SPRING

55P1070

Tighten the retaining nuts securely. Re-install

Fig. 113—Link Spring Trip Installed (Variable Speed) wiper link. Install the wiper arm and blade.

MyMopar.com

8-62 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

ELICTIOLUMINESCENT UGHTING, MSTBUMENTS,

GAUGES, AND DIBECTIONAL INDICATORS

MODELS SC-L SC-2, SC-3, SY-1

OPERATION

Electroluminescent panel lighting used in all Chrysler and Imperial Models, achieves a soft uniform glow that illuminates the panel instruments without objectionable intensity or annoying glare. Light level is adjusted by means of a manually controlled knob.

Electroluminescent lighting has no filaments or gases, but instead is composed of laminated layers of material which glow when an alternating current is applied. A typical lamp (Fig. 115) is composed of several layers as follows:

(1) A sheet of vitreous enameling steel forms the instrument back.

(2) A layer of solid ceramic similar to porcelain is applied to the steel sheet.

(3) A layer is then added which has panelescent phosphor suspended in ceramic.

(4) A transparent electrically conducting layer is then added.

(5) A finish layer of transparent glass coating is sprayed on.

This lamp is electrically a condenser. When A/C potential is applied between the steel plate and the transparent electrically conducting layer, the electric field excites the dielectric causing a solid state, which results in visible light. (The phosphorescent surface acts as a dielectric between the two conducting surfaces and i t also has the property of glowing when excited by a high frequency high" voltage current.)

The layer principle is also applied to the pointers, and, as a result the instrument pointers are a light source in themselves, as are the instrument dials.

.Electroluminescent is powered from a transistor oscillator, which connects the 12 volt D/C to 200 volts A / C at 250 cycles per second. This power pack

(Fig. 116) is mounted on the cowl side panel underneath the instrument panel.

The main components of the electroluminescent panel lighting is composed of:

(1) The A / C power pack.

(2) The individual instrument lighting.

(3) The connecting wiring.

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND SPEEDOMETER HEAD a. Removal (Models SC-L SC -2, SC -3)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the steering wheel as described in

"Steering" Group 19.

(3) Remove the steering jacket tube cover from underside of the jacket tube (Fig. 117).

(4) Disconnect all the wires at the terminals before loosening the cluster attaching screw. Disconnect the instrument ground wire.

(5) Remove the screws which attach the instrument cluster bezel to the instrument panel. Remove the bezel (Fig. 118). Disconnect the speedometer cable.

(6) Loosen the two screws (one on each side of the steering jacket tube) and remove the steering

POWER PACK

Fig. 115

—

Electroluminescense Panel Lighting Fig. 116—Power Pack Unit

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-63

Fig. 117 — Removing the Jacket Tube Cover tube collar (Fig. 119).

(7) Remove the two long screw

T s and spacers attaching the dome and cluster assembly to the dome support. These screws are located just behind the steering tube collar attaching screws. (See Fig. 119.)

(8) Remove the four screws attaching the plastic dome to the instrument panel.

(9) Carefully release the base of the dome from the supports at each side and with a pointed instrument, carefully move the dome away from the opening in the instrument panel, so that the top of the dome and cluster can be tipped outward, towards you far enough, in order to reach the parking brake warning lamp socket.

N O T E : I n some eases where the dome fits tightly in the support, it may he necessary to remove the

six

( 6 ) slotted machine screws that attach the cluster to the dome. Push the cluster up into the dome, ana

Fig. 118

—

Removing the Instrument Cluster

Dome Moulding Fig. 121—Removing the Speedometer Head Assembly

MyMopar.com

8-64 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS the

dome

can then

be carefully

compressed to clear the supports on removal.

(10) Snap out the brake lamp socket and lamp and remove the dome and cluster assembly from the car, as shown in Fig. 120.

(11) Remove the four screws and remove the speedometer head assembly (Fig. 121).

(12) The plastic dome is attached to the cluster by six slotted machine head screws (Fig. 122).

(9) Install the jacket tube cover and the cover attaching screws (Fig. 117).

(10) Install the steering wheel and steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds torque. Install the horn blowing components, as described in "Steering"

Group 19.

(11) Connect the battery ground cable. b.

Installation

(1) Install the speedometer head assembly (Fig.

121). Install and tighten the speedometer to panel attaching screws.

(2) Position the instrument cluster in the instrument panel housing and install the parking brake warning lamp in the cluster well socket.

(3) Work the dome and cluster carefully into position, entering the right corner of the dome base into the dome supports. Carefully move the assembly with a slight rocking motion until the dome and cluster assembly is in position on the instrument panel. (Springing down slightly on the dome supports will aid the installation.)

(4) Install the four screws attaching the plastic dome to the instrument panel.

(5) Install the two dome cluster spacers and screws. (Near the steering tube.) (See Fig. 119.)

(6) Install the steering tube collar and tighten the two collar attaching screws (Fig. 119).

(7) - Connect all the wires disconnected'at the time of removal (including ground).

(8) Install the instrument dome molding (Fig.

118). Connect the speedometer cable.

INSTRUMENT

Removal (Models SC-L SC-2, SC-3)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the steering jacket tube cover (Fig.

117).

(3) Disconnect the wires at the instrument to be replaced (Fig. 122).

(4)

Oil Pressure Gauge:

When removing the oil pressure gauge, remove the ground wire and the two screws from the speedometer dust shield. Loosen the temperature gauge attaching screws. Remove the oil pressure gauge attaching screws. Carefully remove the oil pressure gauge.

(5)

Ammeter:

When removing the ammeter, remove the two screws from the speedometer dust shield. Loosen the fuel gauge attaching screws. Remove the ammeter attaching screws. Carefully remove the ammeter.

(6)

Fuel Gauge:

When removing the fuel gauge, remove the fuel gauge attaching screws, and carefully remove the fuel gauge.

(7)

Temperature Gauge:

When removing the temperature gauge, remove the temperature gauge attaching screws, and carefully remove the temperature gauge.

Fig. 122—Instrument Panel Cluster

(Back View)

Installation

(1)

Temperature Gauge:

Carefully install the temperature gauge into position, and start the attaching screws. Be sure the pointer does not

interfere with the cluster dial. Tighten the attaching screws.

(2)

Fuel Gauge:

Carefully install the fuel gauge, and start the attaching screws. Be sure the pointer does not interfere with the cluster dial. Tighten the attaching screws.

(3)

Ammeter:

When installing the ammeter, be sure the fuel gauge screws are loosened, and the screws are removed from the speedometer dust shield, so that the ammeter may be carefully installed. Start the ammeter attaching screws. Be sure the ammeter pointer is not distorted, and does not interfere with the cluster dial. Tighten the ammeter

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-65 attaching screws. Align the fuel gauge, and tighten the fuel gauge attaching screws. Install the speedometer dust shield attaching screws and ground wire.

Tighten the screws.

(4) Oil

Pressure

Gauge: When installing the oil pressure gauge, be sure the temperature gauge screws are loosened, and that the speedometer dust shield screws are removed. Carefully install the oil pressure gauge. Be sure the oil pressure gauge pointer is not distorted, and does not interfere with the cluster dial. Install the oil pressure gauge attaching screws and ground wire. Tighten the oil pressure gauge attaching screws. Align the temperature gauge and tighten the attaching screws.

Install the speedometer dust shield screws and ground wire, and tighten the screws.

(5) Connect the instrument wires. Connect the instrument panelescent lighting wires. (See Fig.

122.)

(6) Connect the battery ground cable, and test the instrument operation and lighting.

(7) Install the steering jacket tube cover. (See

Fig. 117.)

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND a. Removal (Models SY-1)

SPEEDOMETER HEAD

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with either a heater or air conditioning, or both, it will be necessary to remove the defroster and spot cooler hoses.

Fig. 124

NOTE: To avoid scratching the paint finish on the instrument panel when the instrument cluster is removed, it is recommended that several strips of masking tape be placed on each side of the steering jacket tube.

—

Instrument Cluster Panel Removed

(4) Remove the five screws securing the instrument cluster to the instrument panel. Carefully remove the instrument cluster (Fig. 123) by tilting the lower end of the cluster outward.

NOTE: For speedometer or complete cluster removal, disconnect all electrical connections, and disengage the wire harness loom from harness clips and remove the cluster to the work bench for further disassembly (Fig. 124).

(2) Disconnect the speedometer cable at the speedometer head.

(3) Disconnect the odometer reset cable at the instrument panel cluster. b. Installation

(1) Connect all electrical connections that were disconnected at removal, and engage the wire harness loom securely on the wire harness clips,

(2) Carefully install the instrument cluster in position on the instrument panel, and install and tighten the five instrument cluster to instrument panel attaching screws.

(3) Connect the speedometer and odometer cables to the instrument panel cluster. Make sure that the speedometer cable is properly retained in the attaching clips provided and that it is free of any sharp bends.

NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with either a heater or air conditioning, or both, connect the defroster and spot cooler hoses.

(4) Connect the battery ground cable.

Fig. 123

—

Removing the Instrument Cluster Panel

INSTRUMENT a. Removal (Models SY-1)

MyMopar.com

8-66 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

NOTE: The following instruments and switches can be removed and

installed

from underneath the instrument panel

without

removing the instrument cluster.

I f

vehicle is equipped

with either a heater or air conditioning, or

both,

it

will

be necessary to

remove the

defroster and spot cooler

hoses.

(2) Disconnect the wires at the instrument to be replaced.

(3) Oil

Pressure Gauge:

Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the oil pressure gauge. Remove the center screw attaching both the oil pressure gauge and ammeter, then carefully remove the oil pressure gauge.

(4) Ammeter: Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the ammeter. Remove the center screw attaching both the ammeter and oil pressure gauge, then carefully remove the ammeter.

(5) Fuel Gauge : Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the fuel gauge. Remove the center screw attaching both the fuel gauge and the temperature indicator, then carefully remove the fuel gauge.

(6) Temperature Indicator: Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the temperature indicator. Remove the center screw attaching both the temperature indicator and the fuel gauge, then carefully remove the temperature indicator. b. Installation

(1) Temperature Indicator: Carefully install the temperature indicator in position and start the center fuel gauge and temperature indicator attaching screw, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires.

(2) Fuel Gauge: Carefully install the fuel gauge in position and start the center temperature indicator and fuel gauge attaching screw, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires.

(3) Ammeter: Carefully install the ammeter in position and start the center ammeter and oil pressure gauge attaching screws, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires.

(4) Oil Pressure Gauge: Carefully install the oil pressure gauge in position and start the center oil pressure gauge and the ammeter attaching screw, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end.

Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires.

NOTE: After each instrument is installed, connect the battery cable, and test the operation of the instrument removed. If the car is equipped with either heater or air conditioning, or both, connect the defroster

and spot cooler hoses.

HEADLAMP SWITCH a. Removal (Model

. (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the headlamp switch knob by releaa* ing the retainer on the body of the switch. (Knob must be in the full " I N " position before the knob stem can be released.)

(3) Remove the switch chrome bezel nut.

(4) Remove the switch chrome plate.

(5) Remove the switch back dial plate and the dial lamp.

(6) Remove the switch retaining nut.

(7) Remove the light switch from the panel.

(8) Disconnect the connector plugs and connections. b. Installation

(1) Connect the wires and connections, and position the light switch on the instrument panel.

(2) Install the light switch retainer nut.

(3) Install the switch back dial plate and the dial lamp.

(4) Install the switch chrome plate.

(5) Install the switch chrome bezel nut.

(6) Install the headlamp switch knob and stem.

(7) Connect the battery cable.

WINDSHIELD

SY

WIPER

-1)

AND WASHER SWITCH a. Removal (Model SY -1)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Loosen the set screw and remove the control knob and automatic windshield washer control stem.

NOTE: Use care when removing the windshield wiper control so as not to damage washer control stem.

(3) Remove the bezel nut and the dial plate.

(4) Remove the back dial plate and the dial lamp to uncover the switch retaining nut, remove the nut.

(5) Remove the switch from the rear of the instrument panel.

(6) Disconnect the wires and connections and remove switch.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL A N D INSTRUMENTS 8-67

(7 .X. Remove,washer switch from wiper switch, b. Installation

(.1) Install the washer switch on wiper switch.

(2) Connect the wires and connections.

(3) Position the switch on instrument panel and install and tighten switch retaining nut.

(4) Install the dial lamp and dial back plate.

(5) Install the dial plate and bezel n u t

(6) Position the washer control stem and install control knob and tighten set screw,

(7) Connect the battery cable.

IGNITION SWITCH a. Removal (Model SY-1)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the switch bezel nut.

(3) Remove the dial plate and-back dial.

(4) Remove the dial lamp and switch retaining nut.

(5) Remove the switch from rear of instrument panel.

(6) Disconnect all wires and remove switch assembly. b. Installation

(1) Connect all wires and connectors.

(2) Position the switch on instrument panel

(3) Install the switch retaining nut.

(4) Install the switch dial lamp and dial face.

(5) Install the dial plate.

(6) Install the switch bezel nut.

(7) Connect the battery cable.

Fig. 128

NOTE: turn the ment

—

Horn Blowing Ring Mounting Plate

The brake warning lamps, high beam lamp,

signal lamps can be reached from underneath

instrument

cluster.

panel without removing the instru-

DIRECTIONAL SWITCH (Model SY-1)

Removal

(1) Disconnect the cable at the battery negative post.

(2) Remove the two screws from the underside of the steering wheel and remove the horn blowing actuator and steering wheel cover.

(3) Disconnect the horn wire at the horn blowing switch.

(4) Remove the four .screws and insulators and remove the horn blowing switch -(Fig.

125).

Fig. 12S—Horn Switch and Horn Wire Fig. 127

—

Removing the Steering Wheel

MyMopar.com

8-68 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Fig. 128 — Directional Switch and Lever—

Steering Wheel Removed

(5) Eemove the four screws and remove the horn blowing switch (Fig. 126).

(6) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and install the Steering Wheel Puller Tool C-3428

(Fig. 127) and remove the steering wheel nut and steering wheel.

(7) Remove the directional switch lever (Fig.

128).

(8) Remove the steering column lower cover.

(9) Remove the two screws and disconnect the switch wires at the connection and remove the directional switch and wires (Fig. 129).

Fig. 129 — Removing the Directional Switch

Installation

(1) Position the directional switch, install the attaching screws and wire connections.

(2) Install the steering column lower cover.

(3) Install the directional switch lever.

(4) Install the steering wheel and steering wheel nut, tighten the nut to 40 foot-pounds torque. Test the operation of the cancelling lever.

(5) Install the horn blowing switch mounting plate and the four attaching screws.

(6) Install the horn blowing switch, insulators and attaching screws. Connect the horn wire.

(7) Install the horn blowing actuator, steering wheel cover and attaching screws.

(8) Connect the battery cable at the battery negative post.

DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL SWITCH a. Removal (Models SC-L SC-2, SC-3)

Fig. 130 — Removing the Turn Signal Switch

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Disconnect the directional signal wires at the connectors. •

(3) Remove the directional signal switch (held to the jacket tube by two screws) (Fig. 130). b.

Installation

(1) Connect the directional signal switch wires at the connectors.

(2) Position the turn signal switch on the column tube making sure the column jacket does not restrict switch movement and install the two attaching screws.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-69

THE1MAL TYPE GAUGES

OPERATION

Thermal type gauges operate on a principle of constant voltage being applied, and are sensitive only to changes in fuel level, oil pressure or temperature.

The constant voltage is connected in parallel to the gauges and provides the same regulated voltage to the gauges.

The constant voltage is provided through the use of a voltage regulator contained inside the oil pressure gauge case on Models SC-l, SC-2, SC-3 and in the temperature gauge on Model SY-1.

The terminals on the gauge that houses the constant voltage regulator internally is marked as follows:

"A" — is the output terminal for the controlled voltage from the regulator.

"I" — is the 12 volt input voltage terminal to the voltage regulator.

"S"

— is the terminal for the connection to the sending unit.

The gauges (related to the thermal system) that do not contain the regulator will have only the controlled voltage terminal and the terminal for the connection to the sending unit. a. Tank Unit

A float is hinged to allow the float to raise or lower dependent on the fuel level. The float connects to a variable resistance that provides a change in the resistance with any up or down motion of the float through a wiping contact in the gauge body (Fig.

131).

Fig. 132

— Operation with the Tank

Empty b.

Fuel Level Indicating System

Turning the ignition key on connects the system to the battery or charging system voltage. The function of current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge voltage from the car battery or charging system to a constant voltage or approximately 5 volts D.C.

When the fuel level is low or empty, the resistance is increased which decreases the current flow and consequently positions the panel gauge pointer to low or empty (Fig. 132).

When the tank is full, the float level is at'the top, the minimum resistance is in the circuit and the flow of current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge pointer will be moved across the dial to indicate a full tank (Fig. 133).

MyMopar.com

8-70 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

INSULATED WASHER INSULATING TUBE TEMPERATURE

SENSING

ELEMENT

HEAT

CONDUCTOR

DISC

TERMINAL

INSULATOR

ELECTRICAL CONDUCTING SPRING

59

X

]00A

Fig. 134—Engine Temperature Sending Unit

T E M P E R A T U R E U N I T O P E R A T I O N

W I T H HIGH T E M P E R A T U R E c. Engine Temperature Sending Unit

(Fig.

134)

This unit like the fuel level tank unit operates on a principle of varying resistance. d. The

Temperature Indicating System

The operation of the temperature indicating system is identical i n operation with fuel system with the exception of the method of varying the resistance of the sending unit.

When the engine is cold the resistance of the disc in the temperature sending unit is high. Low temperature will be indicated (Fig. 135).

T E M P E R A T U R E U N I T O P E R A T I O N

W I T H L O W T E M P E R A T U R E

Fig. 136—Operation at High Temperature

As the engine temperature increases the resistance of the temperature sending unit disc starts to decrease. A resultant increase in the current flow will occur causing the gauge pointer to indicate the increase in engine temperature (Fig. 136). e. Oil Pressure Sending Unit (Fig. 137)

(SC-L SC-2, SC-3)

This unit consists of a spring loaded diaphragm and a variable resistance unit. The electrical circuit for the oil pressure system grounds through the pin in the diaphragm.

TO PRESSURE G A U G E •

C O N S T A N T

V O L T A G E

S U P P L Y 3 * 7 X 1 0 4

Fig. 135—Operation at Low Temperature

HIGH RESISTANCE

WITH L O W PRESSURE

OIL G A L L E R Y

LOW RESISTANCE

WITH HIGH PRESSURE

Fig. 137—Oil Pressure Sending Unit

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-71

CLUTCH SOLENOID

- REAR RISER

FRONT RISER

UP

• F-9A -

^ 0 i - F - 6 A

F-5A-

- F-8A -

SIX WAY SEAT ADJUSTER SWITCH

C1R. GA. COLOR

F-10A

F-9A

F-8A

F-7A

F-6A

F-5A

F-13

F-12

14

14

WHITE

DK. BLUE

14 BROWN

14 DK, GREEN

14 YELLOW

14 RED

16 BLACK

F-11

F-10

F-9

F-8

F-7

F-6

16 GREEN

14 RED

16 WHITE

16 DK. BLUE

18 BROWN

18 DK. GREEN

F-5

F-2A

F-2

18 YELLOW

14 RED

12 RED

10 RED

CLIPv

COWL CIRCUIT BREAKER-

SEE CHASSIS AND

INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING

DIAGRAM FOR FEED CABLE

C D

MOTOR

F-2A

R E L A Y

Fig. 138— Six Way Seat Adjusting Wiring Diagram

SEAT ADJUSTER MOTOR

61x101

DOME LAMP WIRING

M-2E -a*

R I G H T R E A R

DOME LAMP

1

A U T O M A T I C S W I T C H M ^

?

U A L

M-1C

DOME LAMP

TWO DOOR MALE

HARDTOP /

R I G H T

BLOWER MOTOR

FEMALE /

RIGHT

TO COWL

CIRCUIT BREAKER

LEFT

BLOWER MOTOR

FEMALE

AUTOMATIC

SWfTCH

TO TOP LIFT SWITCH WIRING (ON INSTRUMENT PANEL)

TO INSTRUMENT PANEL

WIRING

TO RIGHT TAIL STOP

AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP

°^7c3?S= an.

GA, COLOR

B-2 18 WHITE

B-2A 18 WHITE

8-28

B-2C c

- n

18 WHITE

IS WHITE

18 BLACK

C-12 20 WHITE

C13 18 BLACK

C-13A >* BLACK

C-20 14 BROWN

C-20A 14 BROWN

C-22 14 DK. GREEN

C22A 14 DK, GREEN

D-7 18 BROWN

D-7A 18 BROWN

D-« 18 DK. GREEN

D-8A 18 OK. GREEN

G-4

L-7

1* LT. BLUE

I t BLACK

L-7A 18 BLACK

L-7B 18 BLACK

L-7C IS MACK

M-1 I f P***K

M-1A l i FINK

M - i l 18 PINK

M-1C 18 PINK

M-1D 18 PWK

M-1E ts FINK

( ^ • I I 1 U : I W V

FEMALE GROMMET

TO HPT

TAIL STOP AND

L-7A TURN SIGNAL LAMP

FEMALE MALE r&\

: • • i i u=i

W M I

M-M 18 PINK

T-!

T-2

12 RED

1? BROWN

62x553

Fig. 139

—

Body and Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram (Except Town and Country) (Chrysler)

MyMopar.com

8-72 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

10 AMPERE FUSE

TO C1GA1

TO

TAIL

GATE AND WINDOW

LIFT REAR

ROOF SWITCH

LIGHTER

IF SO

EQUIPPED

3 SEAT

SUBURBAN

ONLY

TO

RIGHT REAR DOOR

AUTOMATIC SWITCH

FEMALE

MALE

D-7A RIGHT TAIL STOP

AND TURN SIGNAL

L-7D LAMP

TO TAIL GATE

AND WINDOW

LIFT

SWITCH

WIRING

SEE DIAGRAM

INSTRUMENT PANEL

WIRING

TO AIR CONDITIONING

SWITCH WIRING ON

INSTRUMENT PANEL

62

x

593

MALE

Fig. 140 — Body and Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram (Town and Country) (Chrysler)

RIGHT REAR

DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH

M-2G

RIGHT BLOWER

MOTOR

COWL TERMINAL 10 AMPERE

FUSE

BLOCK OR FEED SIDE

OF CIRCUIT BREAKER

SEE

INSTRUMENT PANEL

WIRING

62 x 574

T-l

T-2

T-3

X-3

X-3A

RIGHT TAIL STOP

AND TURN SIGNAL

LAMP

L - Z A — C f l

12 RE5

12 BROWN

12

YELLOW

14 LT.

GREEN

14 ' LT. GREEN cm GA. COLOR

B-2 18 WHITE

B-2A

B-2B

18 WHITE

18 WHITE

C - l l

C-12

18 BLACK

20 WHITE

C-13 18 BLACK

C-13A 18 BLACK

C-20 14 BROWN

C-20A 14 BROWN

C-22 14 DK. GREEN

C-22A 14 DK. GREEN

D-7

D-7A

D-8

D-8A

G-4

L-7

18 BROWN

18 BROWN

18 DK.

GREEN

18 DK. GREEN

18

LT.

BLUE

18 BLACK

L-7A

L-7B

L-7C

18 BLACK

18 BLACK

18 BLACK

L-7D

M-l

18 BLACK

18 PINK

M-1A 18 PINK

M-1B 18 PINK

M-1C 18 PINK

M-1D 18 PINK

M-2

M-2A

18 YELLOW

18 YELLOW

M-2B 18 YELLOW

M-2C 18 YELLOW

M-2D 18 YELLOW

M-2E 18 YELLOW

M-2F 18 YELLOW

M-2G 18 YELLOW

M-11 18 PINK

M-HA 18 PINK

M-12 18 YELLOW

Fig. 141—Body and Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram (Imperial)

MyMopar.com

RIGHT FRONT DOOR SWITCH

GAUGE

FOR BODY

CIR. 21 41 43

23 45 46

27

COLOR

- W - 2 -

UP

FEED

DOWN

W-24C 12 12 12 BLACK

W-24B 12 14 12 BLACK

W-24A 12 14 12 DK. GREEN

W-24 12 14 12 DK. GREEN

W-23C 12 12 12 LT. GREEN

W-23B 12 14 12 RED

W-23A 12 14 12 RED

W-23 12 14 12 RED

W-22C 12 12 12 BLACK

W-22B 12 14 14 VIOLET

W-22A 12 14 14 VIOLET

W-22 12 14 14 VIOLET

W-21A 12 12 12 LT. GREEN

W-21 14 16 12 BROWN

W-14C 12 12 12 LT. GREEN

W-14B 12 14 12 GRAY

W-14A 12 14 12 GRAY

W-14 12 14 12 GRAY

W-13C 12 12 12 BLACK

W-13B 12 14 12 ORANGE

W-13A 12 14 12 ORANGE

W-13 12 14 12 ORANGE

W-12C 12 12 12 LT. GREEN

W-121 12 14 14 PINK

W-12A 12 14 14 PINK

W-12 12 14 14 PINK

W-11A 12 12 12 BLACK

W - l l 14 16 14 DK. BLUE

W-4 12 14 12 WHITE

W-3 12 14 12 BLACK

W-2 12 14 14 YELLOW

W-1 12 12 12 TAN

W-2A 12 12 12 YELLOW

W 22

W-2 W-4

W-3

W-12

- W - 1 2 A -

W-24

W-14

-CC3

LEFT FRONT DOOR

MASTER SWITCH

30 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER

SEE DIAGRAM INSTRUMENT

PANEL WIRING FOR CIRCUIT BREAKER FEED

RIGHT REAR DOOR MOTOR

UP

- W - 2 2 C -

LEFT FRONT DOOR MOTOR

UP

- W - l l /

W-23-

- W - 1 4 -

RIGHT REAR DOOR OR

QUARTER SWITCH

- W - 2 4 A -

RIGHT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER MOTOR

W-24C

W-14C

LEFT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER SWITCH LEFT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER MOTOR

UP

DOWN

C33~~W-13C-

-W-23A W-23C -

6 1 x l 0 2 A

Fig. 142—Electric Window Lift Wiring Diagram (Chrysler)

MyMopar.com

8-74 " ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

CIR. GA

L-6 18

COLOR

YELLOW WITH

BLACK TRACER

L-7 18 BLACK

1-8 18 DARK GREEN

M-l 18 PINK

M-1A 18

M-1B 18

PINK

PINK

M-IC 18

M-2 18

M-2A 18

M-2B 18

PINK

YELLOW

YELLOW

YELLOW

M-2C 18

M-3 18

YELLOW

YELLOW

P-l 18 LIGHT BLUE

P-2 18 LIGHT BLUE

0-2 12 BLACK

0-2A 12 BLACK

0-3 12

RED WITH

WHITE TRACER

R-6 12

R-6A 12 BLACK

S-2 18 YELLOW

V-2 Id

V-3 16

V-4 16

BLACK

PINK

BLACK

RED

V-5 16 YELLOW

V-6 16 DARK BLUE

V-9 18 BLACK

TAN WITH

V-10 18

BLACK TRACER

X-1 16

X-12 18

X-21 18

X-24 16

RED

BLACK

GRAY

RED

M-1A

I

62X575

FOOT DIMMER

SWITCH DASH UNE

ACCESSORY CIRCUIT

BREAKERS

Fig. 143 — Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram (Chrysler)

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS ~ 8-75

AUTO PILOT

SWITCH LIGHT

E

-2D

MALE

FEMALE

FEMALE

, A C C

S W vST.,

I

WINDSHIELD WIPER

SWITCH

T C H

KifVARlABLE SPEED) iS x V - V - 3 '

MALE

E

-2

I E-2A

V

F E M A L E

M A L E V

E

.

2 E

OSCILLATOR

HEATER

CONTROLS

FEMALE

MALE 1

„ STARTER AND IGNITION

E

•E

-3B

M

-2B

-2C-

•E-3C

-E-3D

M

-X-21

FEMALE

-M

-1B-

—M-2

- X - 1 2 - | ! 3 R A D I O r^<4

I.

-1C

MALE

,3>=cD

t

MAP W M P

, RADIO

3 0 - E 3

LIGHTING

FEED

RIGHT FRONT DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH

GLOVE BOX LAMP

AND SWITCH

[CLOCK

FEED

jflciCAR LIGHTER

D-9-

RIGHT TURN SIGNAL^

NDICATOR UMP

HIGH BEAM

INDICATOR LAMP

OIL GAUGE-

M-2A

-M

-2B-

A-l 10

A-LA 12

A-1B* 10 a-i 18

COLOR

RED

RED

RED

WHITE

B-2 18

B-5

WHITE

14 LIGHT GREEN

C-l 16

BLACK WITH

WHITE TRACER

C-4 16

D-5

D-6

BROWN

C-5 16 DARK GREEN

D-l 18 BLACK

D-1A

D-2

18

18

BLACK

RED

D-3 18

D-4 18

PINK

WHITE

19 TAN

18 LIGHT GREEN

D-7

D-8

D-9

18 BROWN

18 DARK GREEN

18 TAN

D-10 18 LIGHT GREEN

D-14 18 VIOLET

D-15 18 ORANGE

E-l 18 TAN

E-2 18 ORANGE

E-2A 18 ORANGE

E-2B 18 ORANGE

E-2C 18 ORANGE

E*2D 18 ORANGE

E-2E '8 ORANGE

E-3 18 WHITE

E-3A 18 WHITE

E-3B 18

E-3C 18

£-30 18

E-3E 18

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

E-3F 18

E-3G 18

WHITE

WHITE

£-4

G-?

18

18

YELLOW

RED

G-2 18 VIOLET

G-3 18 RED

G-4 18 LIGHT BLUE

G-5 19

G-6 18

H-3

J-l

J-2

J-3

BLACK

GRAY

18

12

SLACK

RED

16 DARK BLUE

L-1

18 DARK BROWN

16

BLACK WITH

WHITE TRACER

1-2

1-3

L-4

16 LiGHT GREEN

16

16

L-5 18

RED

SLACK

RED

CENTERUNE OF

"STEERING COLUMN

E

-2B

E-4-

1

— L - A -

-L

-1

L-8

INST.

HEADLAMP

SWITCH

1-7

1-2

E-1

J

LEFT TURN SIGNAL-* tNDICATOR LAMP

I

TO TRANS. PUSH

3 BUTTON LIGHT

M-lA l-~lfiFT

FRONT LAMP

_ 2— FLASHER

-3—RIGHT FRONT LAMP

4— LEFT REAR LAMP

5— STOP LAMP

6— RIGHT REAR LAMP

7-TURN SIGNAL AUTOMATIC CANCELING SWITCH

8-TURN SIGNAL AUTOMATIC CANCELING SWITCH

-M-2C—•! LEFT FRONT DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH

62 x S7S

Fig. 143—Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram (Chrysltr)

MyMopar.com

8-76 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

C1R. G A . C O L O R

A-l

A-1A

A-IB

B-l

B-2

B-5

10

12

10

18

18

14

RED

RED

RED

WHITE

WHITE

LT. G R E E N

C-l

C-1A

C-2

C-4

C-4A

C 4 B

D-5

D-d

D-7

D-8

D-9

0-10

6-1

E-2

E

-2A

16

C-4C

C-5

C-5A

D-1 18

D-2 18

0-3 18

D-4 18

16

16

16

16

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

16

BLACK WITH

WHITE TRACER

16 [_ BLACK

18 LT. BLUE

16 BROWN

BROWN

BROWN

BROWN

DK. G R E E N

OK.

G R E E N

BLACK

RED

PINK

WHITE

TAN

LT. G R E E N

BROWN

DK. G R E E N

TAN

LT. G R E E N

TAN

O R A N G E

O R A N G E

Fig. 144—Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram (Imperial)

MyMopar.com

RIGHT FRONT D O O R

AUTOMATIC SWITCH

- m-2 A

——(to

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-77

LEFT FRONT DOOR

A U T O M A T I C SWITCH

J C I R G A

E-31

G-2

18

E-3M 18

E

-3N 18

E-3P

G - l

18

18

18

G-3

G-4

G-5

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

E-2B

E-2C

E-3

E-3A

E-3B

E-3C

E-3D

E-3E

E-3F

E-3G

E-3H

E-33

E-3K

G-6 18

H-3 18

J-l

J-2

J-3

L-1

L-1A

L-2

L-3

L-4

L-5

L-6

12

16

18

12

16

16

16

16

18

18

L-7

L-8

M-l

M-1A

M-l 8

M-1C

M-2

M-2A

M-28

M-2C

P.?

P-2

P-2A

P-28

Q - 2

Q-2A

Q

-3 12

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

12

12

18

18

18

18

18

18

18

R-6

S-2

V-l

V

V-10

12

18

16

-3 16

V

-4 16

V

-5 16

V-6 16

V-9 16

18

X*l

X-11

16

18

X-13

X-14

X-21

X-24

18

16

X-24A 16

X-25

X-25A

X-25B

X-26

18

18

16

16

16

16

X-27 16

YELLOW WITH

BLACK TRACER

BLACK

OK. GREEN

PINK

PINK

PINK

PINK

YELLOW

YELLOW

YELLOW

YELLOW

LT. BLUE

LT. BLUE

LT. BLUE

I t BLUE

BLACK

BLACK

RED WITH

WHITE TRACER

BLACK

YELLOW

RED

LT. BLUE

RED

GRAY

BLACK WITH

WHITE TRACER

RED

DK. BLUE

DK. BROWN

BLACK

BLACK WITH

WHITE TRACER

LT. GREEN

RED

BLACK

RED

COLOR

O R A N G E

O R A N G E

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

BLACK

VIOLET

BLACK

BLACK WITH

WHITE TRACER

RED

YELLOW

DK- BLUE

BLACK

TAN WITH

BLACK TRACER

RED

BLACK

BROWN

YELLOW

GRAY

RED

YELLOW

RED

RED

RED

LT. BLUE

BLACK

Fig. 144—Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram (Imperial)

62 x 579

57S

MyMopar.com

8-78 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

RIGHT

DUAL HEADLAMPS

RIGHT PARK AND

TURN SIGNAL LAMP

LEFT PARK AND

TURN SIGNAL LAMP

L -6A-

MALE

D-6-

LEFT

DUAL

HEADLAMPS

CHRYSLER ONLY

-L -6-

HEAD LAMP PARKING AND

TURN SIGNAL WIRING

(CHRYSLER ONLY)

CIR. GA. COLOR

D-5 18

D-6. 18

L-3 16

L-3A 16

L-3S 16

L «3C 16

L-4 16

L-4A 16

L-6 18

L-6A 18

L-6B 18

L -9 16

L-9A 16

L -9B 16

L -9C 16

TAN

LT.

GRTEN

RED

RED

RED

RED

BLACK

BLACK

YELLOW

YELLOW

YELLOW

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

U 4

° — " I L -3E

RIGHT DUAL HEADLAMPS L-9B j & i

RIGHT PARK AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP

HEADLAMP* PARKING AND

TURN SIGNAL WIRING

(IMPERIAL ONLY)

CIR.

D-5

GA

18

18

COLOR

TAN

LT.

GREEN

RED L-3 16

L-3A 16

L-3B

16

L-3C 16

RED

RED

L -3D

L-3E

16

L-4

16

16

L-4A 16

RED

RED

RED

BLACK

L«4B 16

BLACK

BLACK

BLACK

L-4C 16

L-4D

16

1-6 18

L-6A 18

BLACK

YELLOW

YELLOW

H-2A

NUMBER 2 HORN

NUMBER 1 HORN

LEFT

PARK AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP

MALE

-L -6A

-D-6-

G-2

-L-6A

L-9D

L-4A

HORN RELAY

(IMPERIAL ONLY) f

H

'

]

'

GRD

L-3A t

H-2

L-6 -

L-4-

L-3C n

_ U9A

JE51 [ofc- L-3B 1

B

ffl L-9E 1 j - t a l I S F L-4B

1

FEMALE MALE

L -6B 18

L-9 16

L-9A 16

L -9 8

16

L-9C 16

L-9D 16

L-9E 16

YELLOW

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

WHITE

DUAL

HEADLAMPS

TEMPERATURE GAUGE

SENDING UNIT

WINOSHIEL

I j WASHER? r V - I O H MOTOR

BATTERY

NOTE-TERMINAL INSULATOR

. VIEWED ON TERMINAL SIDE

IMPERIAL ONLY

Fig, 145—Engine Compartment Wiring Diagram (Chrysler and Imperial)

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-79

DASH L I N E

M A N U A L

TRANSMISSION

BACK-UP LAMP SWITCH

(CHRYSLER ONLY)

DASH

LINE

AIR

CONDITIONING

RESISTOR

MOTOR DIRECTIONAL

POINTS

TWO DIRECTIONAL MOTOR

ENGINE COMPARTMENT

WIRING-ONLY

CIR. GA COLOR

A-l 10

B-l

18

B-2

C-t

C-4

18

18

16

C-4A 16

D-5 18

D-6 18

G-2 18

G-6 18

H-l 12

H-2 16

H-2A 16

RED

WHITE

WHITE

LT. BLUE

BROWN

BROWN

TAN

LT. GREEN

VIOLET

GRAY

VIOLET

DK. GREEN

DK. GREEN

H-3 18

BLACK WITH

WHITE T R A C E R

J-2 1 6

J - 2 A 1 8

J-3 18

L

-3

L

-4

16

16

L-6 18

L-9 16

R-3 18

R-4

1 6

R

-5 1 8

R

-6 1 2

S-2 1 8

DK. BLUE

!

S

DK. BLUE

BROWN

RED

BLACK

YELLOW

WHITE

DK. GREEN

BROWN

DK. BLUE /

BLACK

YEUOWW1IH

BLACK TRACER

S-4 1 6

SUA 16

S-5 12

BROWN

BROWN

BROWN

V-10 18

TAN WITH

BLACK TRACER

X-25 16

X-26 16

X-27 1 6

RED

LT. BLUE

BLACK

AUTO-PILOT

DRIVE MECHANISM

(SO EQUIPPED)

62 x 576

Fig. 145—Engine Compartment Wiring Diagram (Chrysler and Imperial)

MyMopar.com

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW

LIFT SWITCH

R I G H T F R O N T

D O O R L O C K S W I T C H

U N L O C K !

RIGHT FRONT DOOR

WINDOW LIFT MOTOR oUP]

R I G H T R E A R

W I N D O W L I F T M O T O R

UP

F E E D

D O W N

R I G H T R E A R

W I N D O W L I F T

S W I T C H

S E A T

A D J U S T M E N T

C I R C U I T BREAKER

W I N D O W LIFT

C I R C U I T BREAKER

CIGAR LIGHTER

CIRCUIT BREAKER

LEFT FRONT

DOOR LOCK SWITCH

FEMALE MALE

R I G H T R E A R

DOOR LOCK SOLENOID

X-34

(NOT ON CONVERTIBLE COUPE

/ rr-J:—, rto * DOOR HARD TOP)

SYM.

CIRCUITS

GAUGES FOR

4 DR. 4 DR. 2 DR. H.T.

SED. H.T. CV. CPE.

12 12

W-40

W-41

X-3

X-32

X-32A

X-33

X-34

X-35

X-36

W-1 12

W-2 14

W-3 14

W-4 14

W - U 16

W-12 16

W-13 14

W-14 14

W-21 16

W-22 16

W-23 14

W-24 14

W-30

W-31

W-1 A

14

12

12

14

14

12

12

14

14

12

12

16

16

16

16

16

14

12

16

12

12

16

16

12

12

12

14

14

12

12

14

14

12

12

COLOR

TAN

YELLOW

BLACK

WHITE

DK. BLUE

PINK

ORANGE

GRAY

BROWN

VIOLET

RED

DK. GREEN

DK. BLUE

RED

TAN

LT. GREEN

DK. GREEN

LT. GREEN

LT. BLUE

LT. BLUE

ORANGE

PINK

ORANGE

PINK

* LEFT REAR DOOR LOCK SOLENOID

(NOT ON CONVERTIBLE COUPE

OR 2 DOOR HARD TOP)

Fig. 148

—

Electric Window Lilt Wiring Diagram (Imperial)

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-81

S E ! ¥ I C E DIAGNOSIS

BATTE1Y TESTING CHAHT

Hydrometer Test

(Corrected to 80° F.)

Less than 1.220 SP. GR.

Cells show more than 25 points (.025

Specific

Gravity) variation.

State of Charge or

Battery Condition

Battery low.

Short circuit in low cell.

Loss' of electrolyte by leakage or excessive overcharge.

Improper addition of acid.

Natural or premature failure.

Cracked case.

Correction

Recharge the battery. Give high rate discharge test for capacity. If the cells test O.K., recharge and adjust the gravity of all cells uniformly. Test the voltage regulator setting. Thoroughly test the electrical system for short circuits, loose connections, corroded terminals, Ite.

Try to recharge the battery. See "Charging the

Battery". Test battery for capacity. Install a new battery if necessary.

Open Circuit Voltage

Test

Cells showing more than

1.220 specific gravity.

State of Charge or

Battery Condition

Satisfactory.

Cells showing less than

1.220 specific gravity, but nor more than .05 volte variation.

Cells showing more than

05 volte variation.

Questionable

Short circuit in low cell.

Loss of electrolyte by leakage or excessive overcharge.

Improper addition of acid.

Natural or premature failure.

Cracked case.

Correction

No correction required if variation among cells is not over .05 volts. I f variation is more than .05 volts, recharge. Give high rate discharge capacity test, if cells test O.K., adjust gravity of all cells uniformly.

Recharge the battery. Give high rate discharge test for capacity. If the cells test O.K., recharge. Test the voltage regulator setting. Thoroughly test the electrical system for short circuits, loose connections, corroded terminals, etc.

Recharge battery. See "Charging the Battery".

MyMopar.com

8-82 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

BATTERY TESTING CHART

Cranking Test

If the voltage drop is more than 0 .3

volts (3 /10) between the starting motor cable and the vehicle frame while cranking look for:

Possible Cause

Poor contact between the cable terminal and the vehicle frame or between the cable clamp terminal and the battery post or the starter switch contacts. Frayed, corroded or broken cable.

Faulty cell or cells.

Correction

Locate the high resistance: repair or replace as necessary.

While operating the starting motor, ignition

"OFF" check the voltage of all cells. If the voltage varies more than

0.15 volt between cells, look for:

Compare the voltage readings with the hydrometer reading—low voltage is usually accompanied by low gravity. Try to recharge the battery. See

"Charging the Battery".

Condition

Starter Fails to

Operate

Starter Fails and

Lights Dim

Starter Turns, But

Pinion Does Not Engage

STARTING MOTOR

Possible Cause

(a) Weak battery or dead cell in the battery.

(b) Ignition switch faulty.

(c) Loose or corroded battery cable terminals. fd) Open circuit, wire between the ignition—starter switch and ignition terminal on the starter relay.

(e) Inoperative clutch unit.

(f) * Faulty starting motor.

(g) Armature shaft sheared.

(a) Weak battery or dead cell in the battery.

(b) Loose or corroded battery cable terminals.

(c) Internal ground in winding.

(d) Grounded starter fields.

(e) Armature rubbing on pole shoes.

(a) Starter clutch slipping.

(b) Broken teeth on flywheel drive gear.

Correction

(a)

(b)

(c) fd)

Test for specific gravity and check for dead cell. Replace or recharge the battery, as required.

Replace the switch.

Clean terminals and clamps, replace if necessary. Apply a light film of vasoline to terminals. Tighten clamps securely.

Inspect and test all the wiring.

(e) Replace the clutch unit.

(f) Test and repair.

(g) Test and repair.

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

Test for specific gravity and inspect for dead cell. Replace or recharge the battery as required.

Clean the terminals and clamps, replace if necessary. Apply a light film of vasoline to the terminals. Tighten the clamps securely.

Test and repair the starter.

Test and repair the starter.

Test and repair the starter.

(a) Replace the clutch unit.

(b) Replace the flywheel ring gear. Also examine teeth on the starter clutch pinion gear.

MyMopar.com

Condition

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-83

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

STARTING MOTOR

Possible Cause

(c) dry, due to lack of lubrication.

Correction

Solenoid Does Not

Back and F o r t h When

But w i l l Not Disengage

When' Ignition-Starter starter relay ground terminal post and neutral starter switch (automatic transmission only). Also test for open circuit, wire between ignition-starter switc h and ignition terminal and starter relay.

(c) automatic transmission faulty.

(d)

(e)

Faulty wiring, open circuit - (a) Test for open circuit wire between t h e wire between the starterrelay and solenoid terminal starter-relay solenoid terminal and solenoid terminal post. and solenoid terminal post.

(b) connections.

(c) tween solenoid and starter field. corroded.

(d) dered connection inside solenoid switch cover (brush holder plate).

Test for specific gravity of the battery.

Replace or recharge the battery.

Test for loose connections at relay, ignition-starter switch and solenoid.

Repair as necessary.

'(c) inside solenoid switch cover

(brush holder plate) or open hold-in winding.

(d) noid contacts.

Test and repair. spring or spring out of position. switch.

(c) plunger stuck in solenoid.

Replace the switch. wipe clean of all dirt, place a film of

SAE 10 oil on the plunger, wipe off excess.

MyMopar.com

8-84 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

STARTING MOTOR

Condition Possible Cause

(d) Insufficient clearance between winding leads to solenoid terminal and main contactor in solenoid.

(e) Faulty relay.

Correction

(d) Test and repair.

(e) Replace the relay.

ALTERNATOR

Alternator Fails to Charge

(No Output)

(a) Blown fusible wire in voltage regulator.

(b) Alternator drive belt loose.

(a)

(b)

Locate and correct the cause of the fuse blowing. Install a new fuse wire. Solder both ends of a new fusible wire securely.

Adjust the drive belt according to Accessory Belt Drive Specifications Group

7A in this Service Manual.

Install new brushes and/or rotor.

(c) Worn brushes and/or slip (c) rings.

(d) Sticking brushes.

(e) Open field circuit.

(f)

(g)

(h)

Open charging circuit.

Open circuit in stator windings.

Open rectifiers.

(d)

(e)

(f)

(g)

(h)

Clean the slip rings and brush holders.

Install new brushes.

Test all the field circuit connections, and correct as required.

Inspect all connections in the charging circuit, and correct as required.

Remove the alternator and disassemble. Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary.

Remove the alternator and disassemble. Test the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers if necessary.

Low, Unsteady

Charging Rate

Low Output and a Low Battery

(a) Alternator drive belt loose. (a) Adjust the alternator drive belt. See

"Accessory Belt Drives" Specifications,

Group 7A.

Clean and tighten the battery terminals. (b) High resistance at battery (b) terminals.

(c) High resistance in the charg(c) ing circuit.

(d) High resistance in the body (d) to engine ground lead.

(e) Open stator winding. (e)

Test the charging circuit resistance.

Correct as required.

Tighten the ground lead connections.

Install a new ground lead if necessary.

Remove and disassemble the alternator. Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary.

(a) High resistance in the charg(a) ing circuit.

(b) Low regulator setting.

(c) Shorted rectifier.

Open rectifier.

(b)

(c)

Test the charging circuit resistance and correct as required.

Adjust the voltage regulator.

Perform the current output test. Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Test the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers as required.

MyMopar.com

Condition

Rate to a Fully

Oxidized

Burned

Windings Burned

Points Stuck

(d)

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

ALTERNATOR

Possible Cause Correction

8-85

Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary. to Specifications.

(c) open.

(d) grounded.

(b)

set.

(c)

(b)

windings. windings. tween the alternator and the regulator. connection. to specifications. and lower the contact gap.

If excessive, install a new rotor. to specifications.

If excessive install a new rotor. the regulator voltage setting and reset if necessary. a new regulator. Test the regulator setting, and reset if necessary. nator mounting.

<b)

(c)

"Accessory Belt Drives," Group 7A.

Worn bearings. . (c) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Install new bearing as required.

(d)

(e)

(f)

(g) tor fan and stator leads or rectifiers. nator. Correct the interference as required.

Remove and disassemble the alternator. Install a new rotor.

Open 6r

Remove and disassemble the alterna; tor. Test the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers as required.

•

Open or sfifrrted winding in (g) the stator.-. - * tor. Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary.

MyMopar.com

8-86 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

ALTERNATOR

Condition Possible Cause

Excessive Ammeter

Fluctuation circuit to the alternator or an improperly set voltage regulator.

Correction connections as necessary. Adjust voltage regulator.

Burned or Pitted

Distributor Points

Ignition Coil Failure

Condenser Failure

Fouled Spark Plugs

IGNITION SYSTEM

(b) Alternator regulator setting too high.

(c) Points misaligned or gap too small.

•(d) Faulty coil.

(e) Ballast resistor not in circuit.

(f) Wrong condenser or faulty condenser.

(g) Faulty ignition switch.

(h) Bushings or distributor shaft worn.

(i) Touching of points with hands during installation.

(a) Alternator regulator setting too high.

(b)

(c) the cause and correct the condition.

Clean the distributor cam of dirt and grease, apply a light film of distributor cam lubricant Number 1473595 to cam lobes; wipe off the excess. Replace the point set and adjust as necessary.

Test the alternator voltage regulator setting, adjust as necessary. Replace and adjust the distributor contact points.

Align and adjust points.

(d)

(e)

(f)

(g)

(h)

Test and replace coil if necessary. Replace and adjust contact points.

Inspect conditions, and correctly connect the coil.

Test the condenser and replace if necessary. Replace and adjust points.

Replace the ignition switch.

Recondition the distributor.

(i) Replace and adjust the contacts.

(b) Coil damaged by excessive heat from engine.

(c) Coil case or tower cracked.

(d) Oil leak at tower.

(e) Coil tower carbon-tracked.

(a) Normal fatigue.

(b) Damaged by excessive engine heat or moisture.

(a) Carburetor mixture overrich.

(b) Improper gap adjustment.

(c) Improper plug heat range.

(a) Test the alternator setting and adjust as necessary. Inspect the condition of the distributor contact points.

(b) Replace coil. Inspect the condition of the distributor contact points.

(c) Replace the coil.

(d) Replace the coil

(e) Wipe the tower clean. Test the coil, replace if necessary.

(a) Test and replace the condenser. Inspect distributor contact points for pitting.

(b) Test and replace the condenser. Inspect distributor contact points for pitting.

(a) Adjust the carburetor. Refer to Group

14 "Fuel System'

1

.

(b) Set the spark plug gap to .035 inch.

(c) Install the correct plugs.

MyMopar.com

Condition

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-87

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

ALTERNATOR

Possible Cause the cylinder head.

(b) Carburetor mixture too lean.

(c)

(d)

Improper plug heat range.

Improper ignition timing.

Correction

(a) Replace the spark plugs: Install newgaskets. Tighten spark plugs to 30 footpounds torque.

(b)

(c)

(d)

Adjust the carburetor. Refer to Group

14 "Fuel System".

Install the correct plugs..

Adjust the ignition timing.

LIGHTING SYSTEM

(e) cuit.

(d) engine r u n n i n g above idle)

(b)

(c) circuit-

Frequently aged wires in lighting circuit.

(b) aged producing momentary short. ting.

(b) circuit.

(b) ing circuit.

(c)

(d) in lighting switch.

(e) in dimmer switch. ground connection. Make necessary repairs. connection. Make necessary repairs.

Make necessary repairs. aged wiring. damaged wires.

MyMopar.com

j

8-88

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

;

^

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS l O H N

Condition

Horns Will Not Blow

Horns Blow Continuously

Possible Cause

(a) Improper adjustment.

(b) Broken or faulty wiring.

(c) Faulty horn.

(d) Faulty relay.

(a) Shorted wiring.

(b) Horn button sticking.

(c) Relay sticking.

Correction

(a) See "Adjusting Horns."

(b) See Testing Homs " A " and T .

(c) See Testing Horns " A " and " B " . Replace horn if necessary.

(d) See Testing Horns " A " and " B " . Replace relay if necessary.

(a) See Testing Horns " A " and " B " .

(b) Disconnect battery ground cable.

Release horn button. After correction, reconnect battery ground cable.

(c) Replace relay.

Operate from the Master ated from the Individual

Door Switch

ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS ter switch group. door opening, or at the door holding the master switch group. gram in this Section. Repair wiring.

Avoid making a splice in the flexing sections of the wiring harness.

Will Operate from the

Master'Switch of from the Individual Door cated above left cowl panel the battery feed.

Open or ground in the bat- (b) tery feed wire from the sary. circuit breaker to the bulk head disconnect. the circuit breaker to determine if current is present at the terminal opposite

(a) Replace the circuit breaker.

Operated from Either the Master Switch or the Individual Door Switch er—located above left cowl panel.

(b) Master switch and door switch inoperative.

(c) Open in wire between motor and gear box.

(d) Jammed gear box.

(e) Coupling broken between the motor and the gear box.

(f) If the window can be moved up and down by rotating the coupling between the motor and the gear box:

(b) Check the master switch and door switch for continuity.

(c) Check for continuity between the motor and the gear box. Repair wiring as necessary.

(d) Test and repair. Inspect the motor to gear box alignment.

(e) Replace the coupling and test the motor and gear box alignment.

(f) Remove the motor and test on bench with battery voltage. See "Wiring Diagram".

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-89

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS

Condition

A Window W i l l Operate i n one Direction only

When Controlled by

Either the Master Switch or by the Individual

Door Switch

Circuit Breaker Clicks

"On" and "Off" Continuously and Window Does

Not Operate

Possible Cause Correction

(g) Lift motor burned out.

(h) Short in the wiring circuit.

(a) Faulty circuit between master switch and door switch.

(b) Jammed gear box.

(c) If the window can be moved by rotating the coupling between the motor and the gear box:

(d) Lift motor burned out.

(e) Short in wiring circuit.

(a) Short in the feed wire that feeds the right front and rear doors.

(b) A faulty switch.

(g) Repair or replace lift motor. Test for sticking switch.

(h) Inspect and test wiring. See "Wiring

Diagrams".

(a) Check the master switch and door switch for continuity. Check for continuity between the motor leads and the switch.

(b) Test and repair. Inspect the motor to gear box alignment.

(c) Remove the motor and test on bench with battery voltage. See "Wiring Diagram".

(d) Check for sticking switch.

(e) Inspect and test all wiring. See "Wiring Diagram".

(a) Disconnect the cable at the battery negative post and remove the two window lift feed wires from the circuit breaker. Do not remove the battery feed wire. Reconnect the battery negative cable at battery and replace the feed wires one at a time as follows:

1. One feed wire feeds the left front door.

2.

The other feed wire feeds the right front door and both rear doors.

3.

Check the wiring to the doors one at a time to locate the short.

NOTE: When checking for faulty wiring, inspect the wiring harness control wires for a break behind the plate and sector or the regulator i n each door.

(b) Replace the switch.

Entire Unit Inoperative

POWER SEATS

(a) Broken wire or loose connections in any part of motor control circuit.

(a) Disconnect the 6-way terminal connector that connects the switch to the seat actuator. Using jumper wires, connect the jumpers, as shown in the following test chart for the six various control operations. I f the operation is normal, by connecting the wires, as shown in the chart, replace the switch.

MyMopar.com

8-90 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

POWER SEATS

Condition

Motor Inoperative

Seat Inoperative

(Motor- Runs)

Seat Inoperative (Motor

Runs and Solenoid Click)

Slave Unit Inoperative

(Motor, Solenoids and

Drive Unit O.K.)

Possible Cause

POWER SEAT ELECTRICAL TEST CHART

For

Forward

Horizontal

Red

Connect—Blue

Green

For

Forward

T i l t

Red

Connect—Blue

Yellow

Correction

For

Rearward

Horizontal

Red

Connect—White

Green

For

Rearward

T i l t

Red

Connect—Blue

Brown

For

Straight

Up

Red

Connect—Blue

Yellow

Brown

For

Straight

Down

Red

Connect—White

Yellow

Brown

(a) Short or open circuit between power source or faulty relay, switch or motor.

(b) Faulty motor.

(a) Short or open circuit between the switch and affected solenoid.

(a) Possible stripped or broken gear in the drive unit.

(a) Possible broken drive cable.

(a) Check the red wire at the relay with a test light. I f the test light does not light, check for continuity in the number 10 red feed wire, a faulty circuit breaker or a poor connection between the circuit breaker and bulkhead disconnect. If the test light lights, connect number 10 red feed wire with the red and black or red and green wires from the motor. I f the motor runs, the relay was faulty.

(b) Repair or replace the motor.

(a) Jump the wire from the number 10 feed wire to each solenoid terminal on the clutch assembly. Each solenoid should "click" as the jumper is connected. If solenoid does not click:

Test the wire in the harness for an open circuit. Repair. Test for a possible seized solenoid armature in the coil. Replace the coil. Test for a possible burned-out solenoid. Replace the solenoid.

(a) Inspect and replace the drive unit if necessary.

(a) Inspect and replace the parts as necessary.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-91

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

POWER SEATS

Condition Possible Cause

Excessive Free Play i n the U n i t (Seat has a

Rocking M o t i o n , Excessive

Movement between the

Slide and the Base of the

Track Assembly)

(a) Possibly due to -the roller

. (A), Fig. 106 being out of position.

Correction

(a) Repair as follows:

(1) Remove the power seat assembly from the vehicle.

(2) Remove the seat drive tubes from the slave unit.

CAUTION:

Do not r u n the seat motor w i t h the drive cables and tubes disassembled or the u n i t w i l l be placed out of synchronization.

(3) Remove the seat support (B).

(4) Remove the seat slave unit from the seat track slide (C).

(5) Remove the horizontal stops located on the slide at (D).

(6) Separate the seat slide (C) from the base (N) by pressing the slide rearward which will allow the rollers (A) to jump the retaining rivets (E, F, G, H), thereby separating the slide from the base.

(7) Remove the rivet (F) and replace with

5

^5 —18 x

x

/2 cap screw (1) as shown to retain in the proper position. To reassemble, reverse the above sequence.

NOTE: I n reassembly, frayed drive cable may occur. Such a cable may be repaired by applying a light coating of solder and then grinding to cable size.

Seat Track Excessively

Loose (A Loose Rivet

Joints)

Loose Front Levers

(a) Loose rivet joints.

(a) Movement between the two sections comprising the front lever assembly (Fig. 99).

(a) Disassemble the upper track seat support (B) by removing the cotter keys and pins. Remove the seat support and tighten all the riveted joints (J) by peening with a ball peen hammer.

(a) Arc weld the front levers (K) to prevent movement between the two sections.

Seat Chuck Fore and Aft (a) Loose horizontal rack support arm to lower tack base*

(a) Repair as follows:

(b) Loose horizontal rack in slave unit gear train.

(1) Remove the seat track assembly from the vehicle and arc weld as shown (L).

(2) Tighten the rack attaching pins (N) by arc welding.

(b) Replace the slave unit.

MyMopar.com

8-92 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Wiper Operates Slowly (a) Relieve the binding condition. Add lubriplate to moving parts.

(b) commutator contact, or carbon deposits in slots. brushes.

(c)

(d) connection. nection and/or wiring circuit.

Replace the switch.

Faulty control switch. (d)

Wiper Fails to (a)

Operate

Relieve the binding condition. Add light film of lubriplate to moving parts.

(b) See switch testing procedure under

"Windshield Wiper Switch".

(c)

(d)

Test and repair. See "Bench Testing

Wiper Motor".

Test for continuity. Repair wiring as necessary.

Wiper Blades not (a) Replace the spring. See "Assembly of

Parking Properly Wiper Link".

(b)

(c) stop on linkage.

Inspect "Assembly of Wiper Link".

Mouldings spring trip.

•(b) pivots. .

Replace the wiper arm.

Do not attempt to straighten bent or twisted arm.

(b)

(c)

Motor Will Not (a) Inspect and adjust the switch plate

Park ing switch plate is bent too spring. low and is not breaking contact.

(b) parking switch plate is distorted. paired, replace wiper motor and switch assembly.

(c)

Replace wiper motor and switch.

MyMopar.com

Condition

One I n s t r u m e n t Fails to Glow

I n s t r u m e n t Glows B u t

Pointer Fails to Glow

A l l Instruments Fail to Glow

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-93

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

(ELECTROLUMNESCENT LIGHTING)* INSTRUMENTS,

GAUGES AND DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS

Possible Cause

(a) Disconnected lead or broken lead to the instrument dial.

(a) Broken lead to the pointer within the instrument.

Correction

(a) Connect or repair the lead, or replace the instrument if necessary.

(a) Repair the lead or replace the instrument if necessary.

(a) A possible faulty panel lamp switch.

(a) Test the operation of the switch using a test lamp. Install new switch if necessary.

(b) A possible faulty power unit. (b: Test the power unit using Tester Number C-3764. Test the 12 volt input using the tester. Test the high voltage output using the other leads of the tester as follows:

WARNING

Before connecting any test equipment, always t u r n theinstrument panel switch

"OFF". Failure to do this might result i n your becoming startled by an electric shock from the high voltage i n the instrument power u n i t . The terminals are the protective type and this should not occur unless you inadvertently touch the terminal of disconnected socket. However, due to the low wattage, i t w i l l not harm you.

(1) First turn on the instrument panel switch and observe the instrument lighting.

If any portion of the instrument panel does not light, the unlighted lamps are open and the complete instrument should be replaced.

(2) If the entire panel fails to light, turn off the instrument panel switch and install the tester tool at the power pack by disconnecting the connectors and plugging in the tool connectors. Ground the black wire to a good ground on the instrument panel.

NOTE: The caps on the end of the tester indicate the high and low voltage indicator lamps. Red indicates high voltage A / C . Black indicates low voltage D/C.

(3) Turn on the instrument panel light switch. I f the D/C and A/C indicators both glow, it indicates the A/C power supply is operating satisfactorily.

MyMopar.com

8-94 ELECTRICAL A N D INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

ELECTROLUMINESCENT LIGHTING). INSTRUMENTS,

GAUGES AND DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS*—(CONT'D.)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

(4) If the D / C indicator glows but the

A / C does not, the power unit (Fig. 116) is not operating and should be replaced.

(5) If neither the D / C or A / C indicator glows, it indicates the D / C circuit

(orange lead) is incomplete. Test with D / C voltmeter to locate the failure

on

the D / C input side of the power unit.

(6) If both the D / C and A / C indicators glow but the panel does not light up test for a short circuited lamp by disconnecting each lamp in succession and touch the test prod on the white test lead from the tester to the terminal of each of the lamp receptacles.

A good lamp will light up when its terminal is contacted by the white lead test prod. A short circuited lamp will not light up and the instrument must be replaced.

N O T E : One shorted lamp will prevent the entire panel from lighting.

(7) There is always a possibility that more than one lamp might be shorted at the same time. In this case, the panel will stay dark after the new instrument is installed.

Continue to test the balance of the lamps that were not tested before to find additional short circuited lamps.

All Ganges Read High

("against the peg")

After Ignition Switch is Turned

"ON".

THERMAL TYPE GAUGES

(a) Defective constant voltage regulator (stuck points or an open heater coil).

(1) Test voltage at output

(A)

terminal of constant voltage regulator.

A steady voltage of approximately 12 volts indicates regulator is malfunctioning.

A

voltage regulator that is operating properly should normally have a voltage at the output terminal that is fluctuating between 0 and 7.0 volts.

It is, of course, impossible to obtain an accurate voltage reading. The fluctuating voltage reading will, however, indicate that the constant voltage regulator is functioning.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-95

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

THERMAL GAUGES

Condition

Gauge Pointers do not

Move when Ignition

Switch is Turned "ON".

Temperature Gauge or

Oil Pressure Gauge Indicates Normal Operation.

But the Fuel Gauge

Indicates a Higher or

Lower Fuel Level than

Actually Exists

Possible Cause

(a) Malfunctioning constant voltage regulator or an open circuit on battery side (input of regulator).

(a) Fuel tank sending unit or instrument panel fuel gauge is defective.

Correction

(1)

Connect a voltmeter between the constant voltage regulator input terminal and ground.

(2)

Turn on the ignition switch. A reading of approximately

12

volts indicates a defective regulator. No reading indicates an open circuit in wiring to the regulator.

(1) Disconnect the lead wire at tank sending unit.

(2)

Connect a jumper wire to the terminal of the test "Tank Sending Unit" and the disconnected lead wire.

(3)

Connect the remaining jumper wire to a good ground on the test sending unit and ground the opposite end of the jumper wire to a good ground on the car.

(4)

While observing the instrument panel fuel gauge, move the test sending unit to the "empty" position and turn on the ignition. The gauge should indicate empty.

Move the float to the "full" position and the gauge should indicate full.

A gauge that indicates correctly at both positions proves the instrument panel gauge to be operating properly. The tank sending unit in the car should be replaced.

If the instrument panel gauge reads incorrectly at. either or both positions, the instrument panel gauge should be replaced.

NOTE: Checking the system with the tank sending unit positioned for both

"empty" and "full" is usually sufficient to determine the calibration in the range between these positions.

Fuel Gauge and Oil

Pressure Gauge Indicates

Correctly But Temperature

Gauge indicates Higher or Lower Temperature than Actual Engine

Temperature

(a) Defective instrument panel temperature gauge, wiring or defective temperature sending unit in engine.

(1)

Disconnect the lead wire from the engine sending unit and connect the test jumper lead to the disconnected lead wire.

(2)

Connect the opposite end of the test jumpers to the test fuel tank sending unit.

(3)

Connect the remaining jumper lead to a good ground on the base of the test sending unit and the opposite end of the jumper to a good engine ground.

MyMopar.com

8-96 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

THERMAL TYPE GAUGES

Condition

Erratic Temperature

Gauge Operation

Erratic Operation of

Fuel Gauge

No or Low Oil Pressure

(SC-l, SC-2, SC-3)

Possible Cause Correction

(4) While observing the instrument panel gauge, turn on the ignition switch and move the tank sending unit to the empty position. The gauge should indicate at the lowest "cold" end of the dial scale.

Move the test sending unit to the "full" position and the gauge should indicate to the "hot" highest end of the dial scale.

If the temperature gauge indicated correctly, replace the engine temperature sending unit.

(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections.

(a) Clean and tighten all electrical connections and recheck the gauge operation

(a) Loose or dirty electrical con- (a) Check the fuel gauge sending unit, and pronections or defective fuel tank sending unit. ceed as follows:

(1) Clean and tighten all electrical connections.

(2) Make sure that the fuel tank sending unit is grounded to tank and that the tank is grounded to the frame.

(a) Defective gauge, sending (a) Measure oil level with oil indicator stick, and unit, wiring or engine oiling proceed as follows: system.

(1) Disconnect the lead wire from the engine oil pressure sending unit and connect a jumper lead to the disconnected wire.

(2) Connect the opposite ends of the jumper wires to the test tank unit.

(3) Connect the remaining jumper to a good ground and to the test tank unit ground.

(4) Turn on the ignition switch and observe the oil pressure gauge pointer while moving the test tank float up and down.

With the float at the low level, the gauge pointer should indicate no pressure. Moving the float towards the full position should cause the gauge pointer to move to the high pressure position.

If the oil pressure gauge indicates that it is functioning properly, replace the oil pressure sending unit.

NOTE: I f after replacing the sending u n i t the oil pressure still does not funct i o n properly, check the engine oiling system.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-97

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

THERMAL

TYPE

GAUGES

Condition

Possible

Cause Correction

If the oil pressure gauge test indicates the instrument gauge is malfunctioning, replace the gauge.

CAUTION

No attempt should be made in the ield to repair or calibrate any instrument panel gauge

or

voltage regulator units.

These units should be replaced only.

No

unit should

be removed

from the car until tests indicate that it is faulty.

NOTE:

Always

disconnect the

battery before attempting to remove

a

unit from the instrument panel.

CAUTION

Never ground the tank or engine sending unit terminal or wire. The panel gauge will be damaged if you do.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-1

GHOUP i

ENGINE

CONTENTS

Page

Camshaft • • •

2 6

Camshaft Bearings Removal and I n s t a l l a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • 28

Connecting Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Connecting Rod Bearings Installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Crankcase Ventilation System. . . . . . . . . . 36

Crankshaft Main Bearings 33

Crankshaft Main Journals, 33

Cylinder Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Cylinder Heads . . . . . . . . . • 17

Data and Specifications 2

Distributor Drive Shaft Bushings. 27

Engine Assembly Installation (In V e h i c l e ) . . . . .

15

Engine Assembly Removal (From V e h i c l e ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Front Engine Mounts • - • • • 35

Hydraulic Tappets 21

Main Bearings • • • • 34

Major Tune-up 15

Measuring the Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance (Plastigage M e t h o d ) . . . . 33

Mechanical Tappets (C-300H o n l y ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Minor Tune-up . > • • • 10

Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly i n s t a l l a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Replacement. • • - 34

Rear Engine Mounts • • 36

Rocker Arms and Shaft Assembly 16

Service Diagnosis 37

Timing Chain Case Cover Seal Replacement. 24

Timing Sprockets and Chain. 24

Valve Timing (Except C -300H) 23

Valve Timing (C-300H) 23

Valves and Valve Springs. * • ^

MyMopar.com

9-2 ENGINE

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE

Type . . . . : 90° V

Number of Cylinders 8

Bore SC-l (361 Cubic Inch Displacement) 4.125 Inch

SC-2 (383 Cubic Inch Displacement) . . . 4.25 Inch

SC-3, SC-2—300H*, SY-1 413 Cubic Inch Displacement 4.19 Inch

Stroke SC-l, SC-2. 3.375 Inch

SC-2—300H*, SC-3, SY-1.. . . 3.750 Inch

Piston Displacement SC-l 361 Cubic Inch

SC-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Cubic Inch

SC-3, SY-1 413 Cubic Inch

Compression Ratio (Regular Fuel) 361 Cu. In 9.1 to 1

(Premium Fuel) 383, 413 Cu. In 10.1 to 1

Compression Pressure with Engine Warm, Spark Plugs Removed, Wide

Open Throttle at a minimum cranking speed of 120 rpm for 361 cubic inch engine Displacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125-155 psi.

At 100 rpms for 383 and 413 cubic inch engine Displacement . . 130-165 psi.

Maximum Variation Between Cylinders—Any One Engine

361 Cubic inch Engine 20 psi.

383 and 413 cubic inch Engine 25 psi.

Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

CYLINDER NUMBERING (FRONT AND REAR)

Left Bank 1-3-5-7

Right Bank 2-4-6-8

CYLINDER BLOCK

Cylinder Bore (Standard) S C - l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1245-4.1265

SC-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2495-4.2515

SC-2—300H,* SC-3, SY-1 4.1870-4.1890

Cylinder Bore out-of-round (Maximum allowable before reconditioning). .005"

Cylinder Bore Taper (Maximum allowable before reconditioning) .010"

Reconditioning Working Limits (for taper and o u t - o f - r o u n d ) . . . . . . . . . . .001"

Maximum Allowable Oversize (Cylinder b o r e s ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .040"

Tappet Bore Diameter... .9050-9058"

Distributor Lower Drive Shaft Bushing (press fit in cylinder block) .0005-.0040"

Ream to .4865-.4880"

Shaft to Bushing C l e a r a n c e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0007-.0027"

*SC-2—300H has 413 cubic inch high performance engine.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-3

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

CRANKSHAFT

Type Fully Counter-Balanced

Bearings Steel Backed Babbitt

Journal Diameter

(SC

-l, SC-2) 2.6245 to 2.6255"

(SC-3, SY-1) (SC-2—300H) * . . . . . 2.7495 to 2.7505"

CrankPin D i a m e t e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.374 to 2.375"

Maximum Out-of-Round Permissible .001"

Number of Main B e a r i n g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Clearance Desired (Bearing Installed I.D. Minus Journal O . D . ) . . . . . . . . . .0005

to .0015"

Maximum Clearance Allowable Before Reconditioning .0025"

End Play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .002 to .007"

Thrust Taken By No. 3 Main Bearing

Finish at Rear Seal S u r f a c e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diagonal Knurling

Interchangeability of B e a r i n g s . . . . . . . . . Upper Nos. 1, 2, 4, 5.

Lower Nos. 1, 2,4, 5.

MAIN BEARINGS (Service)

All available in standard and the following u n d e r s i z e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .001, .002, .003, .010, .012"

CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS

Type Drop Forged " I " Beam

Length (Center to Center) SC-l, SC-2 6.356 to 6.360"

SC-3, SY-1 (SC-2—300H) * , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.766 to 6,770"

Weight (Less Bearing Shells) SC-l, SC-2 812 4 GMS.

SC-3, SY-1, (SC-2—300H) 846 ±: 4 GMS.

Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steel Backed Babbitt

Diameter and L e n g t h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.376 x .927"

Clearance Desired (Bearing Installed I.D. Minus Journal O.D.) .0005 to .0015"

Maximum Allowable Before R e c o n d i t i o n i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0025"

Side Clearance .009 to .017"

Bearings for Service. Standard .001, .002, .003,

.010, .012" Undersize

Piston Pin Bore Diameter. 1.0925 to 1.0928"

*SC-2—300H

has 413 cubic inch high performance engine.

MyMopar.com

9-4 ENGINE

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

CAMSHAFT

Drive Chain

Bearings Steel Backed Babbitt

Number 5

Thrust Taken B y . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cylinder Block

Clearance Desired (Bearing Installed I.D. Minus Journal O.D.) .001 to .003"

Maximum Allowable Before Reconditioning.... , .005"

CAMSHAFT BEARING JOURNALS

Diameter

No. 1 1J98 to 1.999"

No. 2 1.982 to 1.983"

No. 3 1.967 to 1.968"

No. 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.951 to 1.952"

No. 5 1.748 to 1.749"

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

Diameter (after reaming)

No. 1 2.000 to 2.001"

No. 2 1.984 to 1.985"

No. 3 1.969 to 1.970"

No. 4 1.953 to 1.954"

No. 5 1.750 to 1.751"

TIMING CHAIN

Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . None

Number of Links 50

Pitch .50"

Width .88"

TAPPETS

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic

Clearance in Cylinder Block. .0005 to .0018 inch

Body Diameter .9040 to .9045

Clearance Between Valve Stem and Rocker Arm Pad (Dry Lash) .060-.210 inch

SC-2—300H* Mechanical

Valve Lash or Tappet Clearance—Engine Hot and Running at Idle

Intake .015

Exhaust .024

•SC-2—300H

has 413 cubic inch high

performance

engine.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-5

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

PISTONS

Type Horizontal Slot w/Steel Struts

Material Aluminum Alloy Tin Coated

Land Clearance .032" to .040"

Clearance at Top of Skirt .0003" to .0013"

Weight (Standard Through .040" Oversize)

SC-l, 361 Cu. I n 717 grms.

SC-2, 383 Cu. I n 770 grms.

SC-2—300H*, SC-3, SY-1 413 Cu. In 780 grms.

Piston Length (Overall) SC-l 3.81 in.

SC-2 3.84 in.

SC-2—300H*, SC-3, SY-1 3.96 in.

Ring Groove Depth

No. 1—SC-l—361 Cu. In .214 in.

SC-2—383 Cu. In .220 in.

SC-2—300H*, SC-3, SY-1—413 Cu. I n .216 in.

No. 2—SC-l—361 Cu. I n .214 in.

SC-2—383 Cu. In .220 in.

SC-2—300H*, SC-3, SY-1—413 Cu. In .216 in.

No. 3—SC-l—361 Cu. In .203 in.

SC-2—383 Cu. In .208 in.

SC-2—300H*, SC-3, SY-1—413 Cu. In .206 in.

Pistons for Service Standard, .005", .020",

.040", Oversize

PISTON PINS

Type • - • • Press Fit in Rod

Diameter 1.0935 to 1.0937"

Length 3.555 to 3.575"

Clearance in Piston .00045 to .00075"

Interference in R o d . . . . ;• 0007 to .0012"

Piston Pins for Service Standard Only

Direction Offset in Piston Toward Right Side of Engine

PISTON RINGS

Number of Rings Per Piston 3

Compression 2

Oil 1

Width of Rings

(Compression) .0775 to .0780"

(Oil) -I860 to .1865"

Piston Ring Gap (all) .013 to .025"

*SC-2—300H has 413 cubic inch high performance engine.

MyMopar.com

9-6 ENGINE

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

HING SID1 C L E A R A N C E

(Compression)

Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0015 to .0030"

Intermediate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0015 to .0030"

(Oil) .0010 to .0030"

VALVES—Intake

Material . . . . . . SAE 1041 Steel

Head Diameter 2.08"

Stem Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372 to .373

Stem Oversizes Available for Service Standard, .005, .015, .030"

Stem to Guide Clearance .001 to .003

Maximum Allowable Before R e c o n d i t i o n i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .004"

Angle of S e a t . . . . . . . . . 45°

Adjustment None—except .015"

(SC-2—300H)

Lift All Models Except SC-2—300H. .389"

SC-2—300H .430"

VALVES—Exhaust

Material Nitrogen Treated Manganese

Chromium Nickel Steel

Head Diameter 1.60

Stem Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371 to .372

Stem Oversize Available for Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . Standard, .005, .015, .030"

Stem to Guide Clearance .002 to .004

Maximum Allowable Before R e c o n d i t i o n i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .006"

Angle of Seat. 45°

Adjustment None—except .024

(SC-2—300H)

Lift All Models Except SC-2—300H. .389"

SC -2—300H .430"

VALVE SPRINGS

All Models

Except SC-2—300H SC-2—300H

Number 16 16

Free Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.34" 2.38"

Load When Compressed to (Valve C l o s e d ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95-105 lbs @ 1.860" 92-105 lbs @ 1.860"

Load When Compressed to (Valve Open) 187-203 lbs @ 1.470" 197-213 lbs @ 1.43"

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-7

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

—

CONT'D.

Valve Springs I.D. 1.010 to 1.030" 1.070 to 1.090"

VALVE GUIDES

Type

Guide Bore Diameter

VALVE TAPPETS

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oversizes Available for Service

CYLINDER HEAD

Number Used

Combustion Chamber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Valve Seat Runout (maximum) .

Intake Valve Seat Angle

Intake Seat W i d t h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Exhaust Valve Seat Angle

Exhaust Seat Width. . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder Head Gasket Compressed ( t h i c k n e s s ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cast in Head

.374-.375" std.

•Hydraulic No-Lash

.001, .008, .030"

Wedge Type

.002"

45°

.060 to .085"

45°

.040 to .060"

.022"

ENGINE LUBRICATION

Pump Type Rotor Full Pressure

Capacity (qts.) 5**

Pump Drive Camshaft

Operating Pressure at 40 to 50 m p h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 65 lbs.

. Oil

Filter Type. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressure Drop Resulting from Clogged Filter. 7 to 9 lbs.

OIL PUMP — INSPECTION LIMITS FOR REPLACEMENT

Filter Base Surface

Outer Rotor Length

Outer Rotor D i a m e t e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Inner Rotor Length

Clearance Over R o t o r — O u t e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

I n n e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Outer Rotor Clearance

Tip Clearance Between Rotors

*SC-2—300H

has 413 cubic inch high performance engine.

55

* When

F i l t e r is Replaced,

Add

1 Quart.

,0015 inch or more

.943 inch or less

2.469 inch or less

.942 inch or less

.004 inch or more

.005 Inch or more

.012 inch or more

.010 inch or more

MyMopar.com

9-8 ENGINE

Engine

Displacement

381 cu. in.

383 cu. in.

413 cu. in.

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS—CONT'D.

OVERSIZE AND UNDERSIZE

ENGINE COMPONENT MARKINGS

Location of

Identification

Top Pad—Front of Engine

Condition Identification

.001" U/S Crankshaft

.001" U/S Crankshaft

.001" U/S Crankshaft

Maltese Cross

.020" O/S Cylinder Bores

.008" O/S Tappets

.005" O/S Valve Stems

M-2-3 etc. (Indicating

#2 & 3 main bearing journal) and/or

R-l -4 etc. (indicating

#1 & 4 connecting rod journals)

A

Diamond

None

Crankshaft Counterweight

Top Pad—Front of Engine

Top Pad—Front of Engine

No Identification

TIGHTENING EEFEHENCE

Torque Thread

Foot-Pounds Size

A/C Compressor to Engine B o l t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 %-16

Alternator Adjusting Strap B o l t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 %

6

-18

Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting B o l t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 %-16

Alternator Bracket to Manifold Bolt 50

7

/

1 6

-14

Alternator Mounting N u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 %

6

-24

Camshaft Lockbolt 35

7

/i

6

-14

Carburetor to Manifold Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

5

/i

6

-24

Connecting Rod Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 %-24

Cylinder Head Bolt. 70

7

/i

6

-14

Chain Case Cover Bolt. 15

5

/i

6

-18

Clutch Housing Bolt. 30 %-16

Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal R e t a i n e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 %-16

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-9

TIGHTENING REFERENCE (Continued)

Torque

Foot-Pounds

135

40

in. lbs.

15

85

45

25

15-18

45

30

30

30

40

20

20

50

85

50

in. lbs.

35

15

30

50

30

25-30

10

35

30

30

15

9

30

Thread

Size

%-16

1 /4 -28

'ft o -18

1 /2 -20

7

/

16

-20

1 /2 -13

%-16

Vi6-20

%-24

%-24

•Kc,-18

K«-20

%-16

•%-16

%-16

1 /2 -13

No.

10-32

•y

8

-is

•ft«-18

5

/ie

-18

H

-16

%-16

%-16

14

MM

M«-14

%-16

3 /

8

-16 ,

5

/io

-18

1 /4 -20

%-16

MyMopar.com

9-10 ENGINE

GROUP 9

ENGINE

There are three V-8 engines (Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and

5) used for the various car models and they have the same basic design. The various engine model applications are as follows:

SC-l 361 Cu. I n .

SC-2 383 Cu. In.

SC-2-300H, SC-3, SY-1 413 Cu. In.

The engines differ only in the piston displacement, bore diameter and length of the stroke, power output and carburetor equipment. The 361 cubic inch displacement engine has a 9.1 to 1 compression ratio and uses regular grade fuel. The 383 and 413 cubic inch displacement engines have a 10.1 to 1 compression ratio and use premium fuel. A l l engines are equipped with valves In head, having a wedge shaped combustion chamber (Figs. 4 and 5).

SERVICE PROCEDURES

MINOR TUNE-UP

(1) Test the battery specific gravity, add water if necessary and clean and tighten the battery connections.

(2) Clean and adjust the spark plugs (.035 inch gap). Tighten to 30 foot-pounds and torque with

Tool C-3054.

(3) Adjust the distributor contact points (.015 to

Fig. 1—413 Cubic Inch Engine Assembly

62 x 309

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-11

Fig. 3—Left Side Sectional View

MyMopar.com

•9-12 ENGINE

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-13

1— Air Cleaner

2— Coil

3—Tube

4

—

Bracket

5—Tube

6—Gasket

7—Reinforcement

8—Bracket

9—Air Cleaner

10— Cover

11— Gasket

12—Shield

13—Head

14 — Indicator

15— Manifold

16—Tube

17— Gasket

18—Clamp

19—Gasket

20—Gasket

21—Elbow

22—Gasket

23—Thermostat

24—Fitting

25—Housing

26—Gasket

27 — Pump Package

28—Hub

29—Pulley

30—Screw

31—Washer

32—Pulley

33 — Damper

34—Oil Filter

35—Pump

36—Cover

37—Gasket

38—Gasket •

39—Pan

40—Oil Seal

41—Block

42 — Strainer

43—Pump Package

44 — Gasket

45—Manifold

46— Starter

47—Switch

48—Bracket

49—Cover

50—Gear

51 — Torque Converter

52 — Housing

S3—Shield

54—Spark Plug

55— Shield

56— Head

57— Pipe

58— Gasket

59

—

Cover

60— Bracket

61— Bracket

62— Alternator

63— Gasket

64 — Distributor

65— Cable Set

66 — Reinforcement

67— Strap

68— Manifold

69— Bracket

70— Choke

71— Gasket

72 — Carburetor

73— Gasket

62

x

367A

Fig. 4—Complete Engine External Parts (Disassembled View) (Typical)

.018 inch gap). Install new points i f necessary.

(4) Remove the distributor and spark plug wires.

Inspect the distributor cap for cracks and corrosion.

Inspect the rotor, rotor spring and plunger. Inspect the distributor to spark plug cables for brittle, cracked or frayed insulation. Inspect the spark plug cable terminals. Inspect small lead wires for tightness or damaged insulation. Tighten all electrical connections.

(5) Inspect the distributor vacuum advance for excessive looseness. Install a new plate i f necessary.

(6) Reset the ignition timing with vacuum advance line disconnected.

(7) Inspect and adjust the accessory belt drives referring to "Accessory Belt Drives" Group 7A for proper adjustments.

(8) Tighten the carburetor flange nuts to 7 footpounds torque.

(9) Set carburetor idle mixture adjustment. Adjust the throttle stop screw so engine idles at 450 to 500 rpm (550 rpm with A i r Conditioning).

(10) Inspect the manifold heat control valve in the right exhaust manifold for proper operation and apply Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent Number

1879318 to the bushing and shaft.

MyMopar.com

9-14 ENGINE

RETAINER

CER

ROCKER

BRACKET

OIL SEAL

(SERVICED I N PACKAGE

RETAINER

SCRE

CAP

SCREW

SCREW

CAP

CAP

SCREW

CAP (SERVICED IN ROD)

NUT

CAP

Fig. 5—Complete Engine Interned Parts (Exploded View)

59x53 A

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-15

MATOB TUNE-UP

Perform all the operations of a "Minor Tune-Up" and in addition, the following operations should be performed on an Engine Tune-Up.

(1) Tighten the intake manifold bolts to 50 footpounds torque.

(2) Perform the cylinder compression test. Compression pressures can be read from the top side of the engine without interference using a 30 degree bend extension on the gauge. The compression should not vary more than 20 pounds between the cylinders.

(3) Test the coil and condenser. Inspect the primary and secondary cables. Tighten the terminal connections.

(4) Every 5,000 miles, remove filter element and blow out dirt gently with air hose. Direct air from inside out, and keep nozzle 2 inches away from element to avoid damaging. Clean the metal housing and replace the element. Every 15,000 miles, install a new factory recommended MoPar filter element.

Service the unit more frequently when driving under severe conditions, such as in dusty areas. (Fig. 6)

(5) Test the fuel pump for pressure and vacuum.

Refer to "Fuel System" Group 14, Data and Specifications.

(6) Perform a combustion analysis. Adjust the carburetor.

(7) Eoad test the vehicle as a final check.

(2) Remove the hood.

(3) Drain the cooling system and remove the battery,

(4) Remove all hoses, the fan shroud, disconnect the oil cooler lines and remove the radiator.

(5) Disconnect the fuel lines and wires attached to engine units. Remove the air cleaner and carburetor.

(6) Attach the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to carburetor flange studs on the intake manifold.

(7) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and install the engine support fixture Tool C-3487 on the frame to support the rear of the engine.

(8) Drain the transmission and the torque converter.

(9) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifolds, propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, and the oil cooler lines at the transmission.

(10) Remove the engine rear support crossmember and remove the transmission from the car.

(11) Lower the vehicle and attach the chain hoist to the fixture eyebolt.

(12) Remove the engine front mounting bolts.

Raise the engine with a chain hoist and work the engine out of the chassis.

(13) Place the engine in repair stand Tool C-3167 and adapter C-3662 for disassembly, using transmission mounting bolts.

REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY

(From Vehicle)

(1) Scribe the outline,of the hinge brackets on the hood to assure proper adjustments when installing.

INSTALLING THE- ENGINE

(la Vehicle)

ASS^BLY

Fig. 6—Cleaning Filter Element Using Compressed Air

(1) Attach the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466, to the carburetor flange studs on the intake manifold.

(2) Attach the chain hoist to the fixture eyebolt.

(3) Remove the engine from the repair stand and lower the engine carefully until engine is positioned in the vehicle.

(4) Install the engine support fixture Tool C-3487 on the frame and adjust to support the rear of the engine.

(5) Remove the chain hoist from the fixture eyebolt.

(6) Raise the vehicle on the hoist and install and tighten the engine front support mounting bolts.

(7) Install the transmission and install the engine rear support crossmember.

(8) Lower the engine into position and install the engine rear support crossmember bolts. Remove the

MyMopar.com

9-16 ENGINE engine support fixture Tool C-3487 from the frame.

(9) Connect the propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, oil cooler lines at the transmission, connect the exhaust pipes to the manifolds using new gaskets. Install the transmission filler tube.

(10) Lower the vehicle and install the radiator, fan shroud, hoses, oil cooler lines and connect all wires and linkage.

(11) Remove the engine lifting fixture Tool C-

3466 from the intake manifold and install the carburetor and fuel lines. Connect the throttle linkage.

(12) Install the hood, using scribe marks for proper alignment.

(13) Close all drain cocks and fill the cooling system.

(14) Fill the engine crankcase and transmission.

Refer to "Lubrication" Group 0 for quantities and lubricants to use and check entire system for leaks and correct as necessary.

. 58x140

GROOVE

Fig. 8—Rocker Arm and Shaft Assembly

HOCIER AIMS AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY

The rocker arms are of stamped steel and are arranged on one rocker arm shaft, per cylinder head.

The push rod angularity tends to force the pairs of rocker arms toward each other where oilite spacers carry the side thrust at each rocker arm. Five brackets attach each rocker shaft to the cylinder head.

NOTE: Whenever an engine is rebuilt and a new camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, add one quart of factory recommended oil additive to engine oil to aid break-in (Engine Oil Additive No.

1643234). The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles, and drained at the next normal oil change.

(15) Start the engine and run until normal operating temperature is reached.

(16) Check the ignition timing and adjust the carburetor as necessary.

(17) Adjust the accelerator and transmission linkages. Road test the vehicle. a. Removal

(1) Remove the cylinder head cover and gasket.

(2) Remove the bolts that attach the rocker arm support brackets to the cylinder head and remove the rocker arms, brackets and shaft as an assembly.

(3) I f the rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection, or replacement, refer to Figures 7 and 8 for proper reassembly. b. Installation

R O C K E R A R M S - R I G H T

(1) Install the rocker arms, brackets and shaft assembly.

NOTE: The two wide brackets must be installed with the oil feed grooves facing the push rod side of the rocker arms, as shown in Figure 8.

58x139

A

Fig. 7—Rocker Arm Assembles Installed

(2) Install the rocker shafts so that the %

6

inch diameter rocker arm lubrication holes point downward into the rocker arm, so that the 15° angle of these holes points outward towards the valve end of the rocker arms, as shown in Figure 9.

This is necessary to provide proper lubrication to the rocker assemblies.

NOTE: The 15° angle of the rocker arm lubrication holes is determined from the center line of the bolt holes through the shaft which are used to attach the shaft and bracket assembly to the cylinder head.

NOTE: Use extreme care in tightening the bolts so that tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods

MyMopar.com

'5 ROCKER SHAFT

BOLT

ENGINE 947 a. Removed

(1) Drain the cooling system.

(2) Remove the alternator, carburetor and air cleaner and the fuel line.

(3) Disconnect the accelerator linkage,

(4) Remove the vacuum control tube at the carburetor and distributor.

(5) Disconnect the distributor cap, coil wires and the heater hose,

(6) Disconnect the heat indicator sending unit wire.

(7) Remove the spark plugs.

(8) Remove the intake manifold, ignition coil and the carburetor as an assembly.

(9) Remove the tappet chamber cover.

(10) Remove the cylinder head covers and gaskets.

ROCKER ARM

LUBRICATION HOLES

62 X 23

RIGHT BANK

LEFT BANK

Fig.

9 —Rocker Arm Lubrication Holes and permanent noisy operation may result i f the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

(3) Tighten the rocker shaft bracket bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE: On air conditioned cars, rotate the crankshaft until the number eight cylinder exhaust valve is open, to allow clearance to remove the right bank cylinder head cover and the heater housing.

CYLINDER HEADS

The chrome alloy cast iron cylinder heads, as shown in Figure 10 are held in place by 17 bolts. The spark plugs enter the cylinder head horizontally and are located at the wide edge of the combustion chambers.

INTAKE VALVES *

(11) Remove the exhaust manifolds.

(12) Remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(13) Remove the push rods and place them In their respective slots in holder Tool C-3068.

(14) Remove the 17 head bolts from each cylinder head and remove the cylinder heads.

(15) Place the cylinder head in holding fixture

Tool C-8G26.

EXHAUST

VALVES

Fig. Id—Cylinder Heads

58x136

Fig. 11—Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence

MyMopar.com

9-18. ENGINE b. Installatioxi

(1) Clean the gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head. Remove all burrs from edges of cylinder heads.

(2) Inspect all the surfaces with a straightedge i f there is any reason to suspect leakage. ies, bent push rods, and permanently noisy operation may result i f the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

(8) Place the new cylinder head gasket in position and install the cylinder head covers. Tighten the nuts to 40 inch-pounds torque.

(3) Coat the new gaskets with a suitable sealer,

MoPar Number 1122893. Install the gaskets and cylinder heads.

(9) Install the exhaust manifolds and tighten the nuts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(10) Adjust the spark plugs to .035 inch gap and install the plugs, tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque with Tool C-3054.

(4) Install the cylinder head bolts. Starting at the top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 70 foot-pounds torque in sequence, as shown in Figure

11.

Repeat the procedure, tightening all head bolts to

70 foot-pounds torque.

(11) Install a new tappet chamber cover and tighten the end bolts to 9 foot-pounds torque.

(12) Install the intake manifold, carburetor and ignition coil as an assembly and tighten the manifold bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Inspect the push rods and replace the worn or bent rods.

(6) Install the push rods with the small ends in the tappets maintaining alignment, using rod, as shown In Figure 12.

(13) Install the distributor cap. Connect the coil wire, heat indicator sending unit wire, accelerator linkage, spark plug cables and the insulators.

(14) Install the vacuum tube from the carburetor to the distributor.

(7) Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly starting each push rod into Its respective rocker arm socket (Fig. 7).

(15) Install the alternator and drive belts. Tighten the alternator bracket bolts to 30 foot-pounds, and the alternator mounting nut to 20 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE: Use extreme care In tightening bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque so the tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bod-

Fig. 12—-Push Rods Installed

' REPAIR STAND

\ " / (TOOL)

58x141

Fig. 13—Compressing Valve Spring Using Tool C-3422

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 949

(16) Install the fuel line and the carburetor air cleaner.

(17) Fill the cooling system. Adjust the belt tensions as outlined in "Accessory Belt Drives" Group

7A in this manual.

VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS

The valves are arranged In-line in the cylinder heads and inclined 30 degrees outward from vertical. The intake and exhaust valves operate In guides that are cast Integral with the heads. a. Removed

(1) With the cylinder head removed, compress the valve springs, using Tool C-3422, as shown In

Figure 13.

(2) Remove the valve retaining locks, valve spring retainers, valve stem cup seals and the valve springs.

(3) Remove the burrs from the valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the valve guide when the valves are removed. b. Valve Inspection

(1) Clean the valves thoroughly, and discard any burned, warped or cracked valves.

(2) Measure the valve stems for wear. The intake valve stem diameter should measure .372 to .373 inch and the exhaust valve stem diameter should measure .371 to .372 inch. I f the wear exceeds .002 inch, replace the valve.

(3) Remove the carbon and varnish deposits from the inside of valve guides with cleaner, Tool C-756.

Fig. 15

—

Measuring Guide Wear Using Tool C-3339

(4) Measure the valve stem guide clearance as follows: Install sleeve Tool C-3026 over the valve stem, as shown in Figure 14, and install valve.

(5) The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for checking with a dial indicator. A t tach the dial indicator Tool C-3339 to the cylinder head and set i t at right angle of the valve stem being measured (Fig. 15).

(6) Move the valve to and from the indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed .010 inch on the intake valves, and .014 inch on the exhaust valves. Ream the guides for new valves with oversize stems i f the dial indicator reading is excessive or i f the stems are scored or worn excessively.

(7) Service valves with oversize stems are available in .005, .015 and .030 inch oversizes. Reamers to accommodate the oversize valve stem are as follows: Reamer Tool C-3433 (.379 to .380 inch), Reamer Tool C-3427, (.404 to .405 inch).

(8) Slowly turn the reamer by hand and clean the guide thoroughly before installing new valves.

Fig. 14 — Measuring Valve Stem Guide Clearance

Using Tool C-3026

STEM

VALVE SPRING RETAINER

LOCK GROOVES

54x330C

Fig. 16 — Intake and Exhaust Valve Faces

MyMopar.com

9-20 ENGINE

CAUTION

Do not attempt to ream the valve guides from standard directly to .030 inch. Use step procedure of

.005, .015 and .030 Inch so the original valve guide centers may be maintained. c.

Refacing the Valves and Valve Seats

The intake and exhaust valve faces have a 45 degree angle. Always Inspect the remaining valve margin after the valves are refaced (Figure 16). Valves with less than 3/64 inch margin should be discarded.

(1) The angle of both the valve and seat should be Identical. When ref acing the valve seats, i t is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones, A true and complete valve seat surface must be obtained.

(2) Measure the concentricity of the valve seat using a dial Indicator. The total runout should not exceed .002 Inch (total indicator reading). When the seat Is properly positioned, the width of Intake seats should be 1/16 to 3/32 inch. The width of exhaust seats should be 3/64 to 1/16 Inch.

(3) When the valves and seats are reground, the position of the valve In the cylinder head Is changed, shortening the operating length of the hydraulic tappet. This means that the plunger Is operating closer to Its "bottomed" position, and less clearance is available for thermal expansion of valve mechanism during high speed driving.

(4) The design of the valve mechanism includes a safety factor to allow for a limited amount of wear, and the refacing of the valves and seats.

(5) To insure that the limits have not been exceeded, the dimension from the valve spring seat in the head to the valve tip should be measured with gauge, Tool C-3648, as shown in Figure 17.

Fig. 18 — Checking Valve Spring Squareness

(6) The end of the cylindrical gauge and the bottom of the slotted area represent the maximum and minimum allowable extension of the valve stem tip beyond the spring seat.

(7) I f the tip exceeds the maximum, grind the stem tip to within the gauge limits. Clean the tappets i f tip grinding Is required. d. Testing the Valve Springs

(1) Whenever the valves are removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs should be tested. To test a spring, determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested Is 1-15/32 inches. Turn the table of Tool C-

647 until the surface Is in line with the 1-15/32 Inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place the spring over stud on the table and lift the compressing lever to set the tone device. Pull on the torque wrench until a ping is heard. Take the reading on the torque wrench at this Instant, Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. The valve springs should test 187 to 203 pounds when compressed to 1-15/32 inch. Discard the springs that do not meet these specifications.

(2) Inspect each valve spring for squareness at both ends with a steel square and surface plate, as shown in Figure 18.

(3) I f the spring Is more than 1/16 inch out of square, install a new spring. e.

Installation

Fig. 17

—

Measuring Valve Stem Length

Using Tool C-3648 insert them in position In the cylinder head.

(2) Install new cup seals on the intake and ex-

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-21

Oil Level Too Low

(4) Low oil level may allow the oil pump to take in air which, when fed to tappets, causes them to lose length and allows the valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on the intake side of the pump through which air can be drawn will create the same tappet action.

When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When the oil level and leaks have been corrected, the engine should be operated at fast idle for sufficient time to allow all of the air inside of the tappets to be bled out. haust valve stems and over the valve guides, as shown in Figures 19 and 20 and install the valve springs and retainers.

(3) Compress the valve springs with Tool C-3422.

Install the locks and release tool.

NOTE: If the valves and /or seats are reground, measure the installed height of springs. Make sure the measurement is taken from the bottom of the spring seat in the cylinder head to the bottom surface of the spring retainer.

If the height is greater than 1

5

%

4

inches, install a y

1 6

inch spacer in the head counterbore to bring the spring height back to normal 1

5

%

4

to 1

5

%

4

inch.

(If spacers are installed, measure from the top of the spacer.)

HYDRAULIC TAPPETS a. Preliminary to Checking the Hydraulic Tappets

(1) Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, read the oil pressure at the gauge and check the oil level in the oil pan. The pressure should be between 45 and 65 pounds at 40 to 50 m.p.h.

(2) The oil level in the pan should never be above the "full" mark on the dipstick, or below the "add oil" mark. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets. b.

Tappet Noise Diagnosis

(1) To determine the source of tappet noise, operate the engine at idle with the cylinder head covers removed.

(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect the noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.

NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. I f such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. Inspect rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear. I f noise is not appreciably reduced, i t can be assumed the noise is in the tappet.

(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from a light noise to a heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive leakdown around the unit plunger which will necessitate replacing the tappet, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.

A heavy click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between the plunger and the tappet body, causing the plunger to stick in the down position.

Oil Level To© U g h

(3) I f the oil level is above the " f u l l " mark on the dipstick, i t is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while the engine is running and create foam. Foam in the oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow the valves to seat noisily. Fig. 20—Installing Valve and Cup Seals

MyMopar.com

9-22 ENGINE

This heavy click will be accomplished by excessive clearance between the valve stem and the rocker arm as the valve closes. I n either case, the tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning. f T— PLUNGER RETAINING SPRING CLIP

PLUNGER CAP c. Tappet Removal

(1) The tappet can be removed without removing the Intake manifold or the cylinder heads by following this recommended procedure: Remove the cylinder head covers.

(2) Remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly,

(3) Remove the push rods and place them in their respective holes in Tool C-3068.

(4) Slide the puller Tool C-3661 through the push rod opening in cylinder head and seat tool firmly in the head of tappet.

(5) Pull the tappet out of the bore with a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 21.

If all tappets are to be removed, remove the hydraulic tappets and place them in their respective holes in the tappet and push rod holder, Tool C-3068.

This will Insure installation of the tappets in their original locations.

NOTE: A diamond shaped marking stamped on the engine numbering pad indicates that all tappet bodies are .008 Inch oversize.

CAUTION-

The plunger and tappet bodies are not interchangeable. The plunger and valve must always be fitted to

Fig. 22—Hydraulic Tappet Assembly (Exploded View) the original body. I t is advisable to work on one tappet at a time to avoid mixing of parts. Mixed parts are not compatible. Do not disassemble a tappet on a dirty work bench. d. Disassembly (Figure 22)

(1) Pry out the plunger retainer spring clip.

(2) Clean the varnish deposits from the inside of tappet body above the plunger cap.

(3) Invert the tappet body and remove the plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and the plunger spring.

(4) Separate the plunger, check valve retainer and check valve spring. Place all parts in their respective place in the tappet holder, Tool C-3068.

Fig. 21—Removing Tappet Using Tool C-3661 e. Cleaning and Assembly

(1) Clean all the tappet parts in a solvent that will remove all varnish and carbon.

(2) Replace the tappets that are unfit for further service with new assemblies.

(3) I f plunger shows signs of scoring or wear and valve is pitted, or i f the valve seat on end of plunger indicates any condition that would prevent valve from seating, install a new tappet assembly.

(4) Assemble the tappets, as shown in Figure 22.

I. Testing

(1) Fill a pan with clean kerosene.

(2) Remove the cap from the plunger and completely submerge the tappet in an upright position.

(3) Allow the tappet to fill with kerosene, remove the tappet, and replace the cap.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-23

(4) Hold the tappet in an upright position and insert the lower jaw of pliers, Tool C-3160, in the groove of the tappet body (Fig. 23).

(5) Engage the jaw of the pliers with the top of the tappet plunger. Test leakdown by compressing the pliers. I f the plunger collapses almost Instantly as pressure is applied, disassemble the tappet, clean and test again. (Fig. 23)

(6) I f the tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet assembly. g.

Inspection

If the tappet or bore in the cylinder block is scored, scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to next oversize, using Tool C-3028.

CAUTION

Do not turn the crankshaft any further clockwise, as the valve spring might bottom and result in serious damage.

MECHANICAL TAPPETS (C-300H Only)

(1) Operate the engine until normal operating temperature (approximately 180° water temperature) has been reached.

(2) With the engine running at hot idle, adjust the intake rocker arms to .015 inch clearance and the exhaust rocker arms to .024 inch clearance. h.

Installation

(1) Lubricate the tappets.

(2) Install tappets and push rods In their original positions.

(3) Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly.

(4) Start and operate the engine. Warm up to normal operating temperature.

CAUTION

To prevent damage to valve mechanism, the engine must not be run above fast idle until all of hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have become quiet.

VALVE TIMING (All Models Except C-30CH)

(1) Turn crankshaft until the No. 6 exhaust valve is closing and the No. 6 intake valve is opening.

(2) Insert a 14 inch spacer between the rocker arm pad and the stem tip of the No. 1 intake valve

(second valve on the left bank).

(3) Install a dial indicator so that the plunger contacts the valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as possible.

(4) Allow the spring load to bleed the tappet down giving in effect a solid tappet. Zero the indicator.

(5) Turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until the intake valve has lifted .017 inch on standard engines and .025 inch on high performance engines. The timing on the timing indicator, located on the chain case cover, should read from

10 degrees BTDC to 2 degrees ATDC. I f the reading is not within the specified limits: Inspect the timing sprocket index marks, inspect the timing chain for wear, and check the accuracy of the DC mark on the timing indicator. Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the valve is closed and remove the spacer.

VALVE TIMING (C-300H)

(1) Rotate the crankshaft until the #6 exhaust valve is closing and the # 6 intake is opening. Turn the rocker arm adjusting screw down to zero clearance plus 14 turn. Install the dial indicator so that the indicator pointer contacts the retainer as near to the 90° angle as possible. Adjust the dial indicator to zero.

(2) Turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until the valve has lifted .069 inch.

The timing pointer should read 5° B.T.D.C. to 7°

A.T.D.C.

(3) I f the reading is not within the above specified limits: Note the sprocket index marks. Inspect the timing chain for wear. Determine the accuracy of the D.C. mark on the vibration damper.

(4) Remove the dial indicator, back off the adjusting screw; with the engine running at hot idle, adjust the valve clearance to specifications.

Fig. 23—Testing Tappet Using Tool C-3160

MyMopar.com

9-24 ENGINE

TIMING SPROCKETS AND CHAIN a. Removed

(1) Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator and water pump assembly.

(2) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper attaching bolt.

(3) Remove two of the pulley bolts, install Tool

C-3688, and pull the damper assembly off the end of crankshaft, as shown in Figure 24.

(4) Remove the chain cover and gasket.

(5) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger off the end of the crankshaft. b. Testing Timing Chain lor Stretch

(1) Place a scale next to timing chain so that any movement of the chain may be measured.

(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and apply torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up the slack; 30 foot-pounds torque (with cylinder heads installed) or 15 foot-pounds torque (cylinder heads removed).

Fig. 25 — Measuring Chain Stretch

(5) I f the chain is satisfactory, slide the crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against the sprocket (flange away from sprocket).

(6) I f chain is not satisfactory, remove the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt.

(7) Remove the timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

(3) Holding a scale with dimensional reading even with edge of a chain link, apply torque in the reverse direction 30 foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) or 15 foot-pounds (cylinder heads removed), and note the amount of chain movement, as shown in Figure

(4) exceeds

25.

Install a new timing chain, i f its movement

11/64 inch.

NOTE: With a torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, the crankshaft should not be permitted to move- I t may be necessary to block the crankshaft to prevent rotation. c. Installation

(1) Place both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.

(2) Place the timing chain around both sprockets.

(3) Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the keyway location on the crankshaft sprocket and the dowel holes in the camshaft sprocket.

(4) L i f t the sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against the chain in position as described).

(5) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts.

(6) Use a straight edge to check alignment of the timing marks (Figure 26).

(7) Install the washer and camshaft sprocket bolt and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

Fig. 24

—

Removing Vibration Damper Assembly

Using Tool C-3688

TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT (Cover Removed from Engine) a. Removal

(1) Position the puller screw of Tool C-3506 through the case cover, the inside of case cover up.

Position the puller blocks directly opposite each

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-25

Fig. 28—Removing the Oil Seal

Fig. 26—Checking Alignment of Timing Marks

Using a Straightedge other, and force the angular lip between neoprene and flange of the seal retainer.

(2) Place the washer and nut on puller screw.

Tighten the nut as tight as possible by hand, forcing the blocks into gap to a point of distorting the seal retainer lip (Figure 27). This is important (puller is only positioned at this point).

(3) Place the sleeve over the retainer and place the removing and installing plate into the sleeve.

(4) Place the flat washer and nut on puller screw.

Hold the center screw and tighten the puller nut to remove the seal (Figure 28). b. Installation of the Oil Seal

(1) Insert the puller screw through the removing and installing plate so that the thin shoulder will be facing up.

(2) Insert the puller screw with plate through the seal opening (inside of the chain case cover facing up).

(3) Place the seal in the cover opening, with neoprene down. Place the seal installing plate into the new seal, with protective recess toward lip of seal retainer (Figure 29).

Fig. 29

—

Positioning Installer Plate on New Seal

Fig. 27—Removing Timing Chain Case Cover

Oil Seal Using Tool C-3506 Fig. 30 — Installing a New Seal

MyMopar.com

9-26

ENGINE

BOLT

I

W A S H E R

C A M S H A F T S P R O C K E T C A M S H A F T

- D I S T R I B U T O R D R I V E G E A R

( C A M S H A F T )

F U E L P U M P E C C E N T R I C ( C A M S H A F T )

L O C A T I N G D O W E L

58x158

Fig. 33—Camshaft & Sprocket Assembly

(Disassembled View)

CHAIN CASE COVER

5558x156 A

Fig. 31

—

Checking the Seal for Proper Seating

NOTE: Lip of the neoprene seal must be toward source of oil,

(4) Install the flat washer and nut on the puller screw, hold screw and tighten the nut (Fig. 30).

(5) The seal is properly installed when the neoprene is tight against the face of the cover. Try to insert a .0015 inch feeler gauge between the neoprene and the cover (Fig. 31). I f the seal is installed properly, the feeler gauge cannot be inserted.

NOTE: It is normal to find particles of neoprene collected between the seal retainer and the crankshaft oil slinger after the seal has been in operation. crankshaft, and slide the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

(2) Place the installing tool, part of puller set

Tool C-3688 in position and press the damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 32).

(3) Install the damper retainer washer and bolt.

Tighten to 135 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Slide the belt pulley over the shaft and attach with bolts and lockwashers.

(5) Tighten the bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque. c. Installing the Chain Case Cover

(1) Be sure the mating surfaces of the chain case cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs.

(2) Using a new gasket slide the chain case cover over the locating dowels. Install and tighten bolts

15 foot-pounds torque. d. Installing Vibration Damper

(1) Place the damper hub key in the slot in the

CAMSHAFT

The camshaft has an integral oil pump and distributor drive gear and fuel pump eccentric, as shown i n

Figure 33.

Rearward camshaft thrust is taken by the rear face of the cast iron camshaft sprocket hub, bearing directly on the front of the cylinder block, eliminating the need for a thrust plate. The load of the helical oil pump and distributor drive gear and the camshaft lobe taper both tend to provide a rearward thrust. a. Removal

(1) With the tappets and the timing chain and sprockets removed, remove the distributor and lift

CHAIN CASE COVER

TIMING INDICATOR

CYLINDER BLOCK

TIMING MARK

VIBRATION DAMPER ,

TOOL

58x157A

Fig. 32

—

Installing Vibrator Damper Assembly

58x159

Fig. 34—Removing the Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-27

Fig. 35—Install the Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

Using Tool C-3053

Fig. 37—Camshaft Holding Tool C-3509 out the oil pump and distributor drive shaft.

(2) Remove the fuel pump to allow the fuel pump push rod to drop away from the cam eccentric.

(3)

Remove the camshaft, being careful not to damage the camshaft bearings with the cam lobes.

(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by tightening the puller nut, the bushing is expanded tight in block and burnished to correct size, as shown in Figure 36.

DO NOT REAM THIS

BUSHING.

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHINGS a. Removal

(1) Insert Tool C-3052 into the old bushings and thread down until a tight i t Is obtained (Figure 34).

(2) Hold the puller screw and tighten puller nut until bushing is removed. b. InstaEotion

(1) Slide a new bushing over the burnishing end of Tool C-3053 and insert the tool bushing into the bore, as shown in Figure 35.

(2) Drive the bushing and tool into position, using a soft hammer.

Fig. 36—Burnishing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing b. Camshaft Installation

(1) Lubricate the camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert the camshaft to within

2 inches of its final position in the cylinder block.

(2) Modify Tool C-3509 by grinding off the index lug holding upper arm on the tool and rotate arm 180 degrees.

(3) Install Tool C-3509 in place of distributor drive gear and shaft, as shown in Figure 37.

(4) Hold the tool in position with the distributor lock plate screw. This tool will restrict the camshaft from being pushed in too far and prevent knocking out the welch plug in the rear of the cylinder block.

The tool should remain installed until the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain have been installed.

NOTE: Whenever an engine is rebuilt and a new camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, one quart of factory recommended oil additive should be added to the engine oil to aid in break-in. The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles. Drain the oil mixture at the next normal oil change.

NOTE: Whenever the camshaft is replaced, all of the tappet faces must be inspected for crown with a straight edge. If any contact surface is dished or worn, the tappet must be replaced.

MyMopar.com

9-28 ENGINE c. Distributor Timing

Before Installing the distributor and the oil pump drive shaft, time the engine as follows:

(1) Rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder Is at top dead center on firing stroke.

(2) When In this position, the straight line on the vibration damper should be under "0" on the timing indicator.

(3) Coat the shaft and drive gear with engine oil.

Install the shaft so that after the gear spirals into place, i t will Index with the oil pump shaft, so that the slot In top of the drive gear will be parallel with the center line of the crankshaft, as shown in Figure

38.

Fig. 39—Removing the Camshaft Bearing

Using ToolC-3132A d.

InstaEation of Distributor

(2) Install the proper size adapters and horse shoe washers (part of Tool C-3132A) at back of each bearing to be removed and drive out the bearings.

(1) Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on the cylinder block with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the center of engine.

(2) Turn the rotor until It points forward and to the approximate location of the No. 1 tower terminal in the distributor cap.

(3) Place the distributor gasket in position.

(4) Lower the distributor and engage the shaft in the slot of the distributor drive shaft gear.

(5) Turn the distributor clockwise until the breaker contacts are just separating, install and tighten the hold down clamp. b. InstaEation

(1) Install the new camshaft bearings with Tool

C-3132A. Place the new camshaft bearing over the proper adapter.

(2) Position the bearing in the tool. Install the horse shoe lock and by reversing the removal procedure, carefully drive bearing into place, as shown in Figure 39.

(3) Install the remaining bearings in like manner.

NOTE: InstaU the No. 1 camshaft, bearing 1/32"

Inward from the front face of the cylinder Mock.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

G

. Removal

(1) With the engine completely disassembled, drive out the rear camshaft bearing welch plug.

The oil holes in the camshaft bearings and the cylinder block must be in exact register to insure proper lubrication (Fig. 39).

The camshaft bearing index can be checked after installation by inserting a pencil flashlight in the bearing. The camshaft bearing oil hole should be perfectly aligned with the drilled oil passage from the main bearing. Other oil holes in the camshaft bearings should be visible by looking down on the left bank oil hole above and between No. 6 and No. 8 cylinders to No. 4 camshaft bearing and on the right bank above and between No. 5 and 7 cylinders to No.

4 camshaft bearings. I f the camshaft bearing oil holes are not in exact register, remove and reinstall them correctly. Use Tool C-897 to install a new welch plug at the rear of camshaft. Be sure this plug does not leak.

Fig. 38

—

Distributor Drive Gear Installed

CYLINDER BLOCK

The cylinder block is of the deep block design which eliminates the need for a torque converter housing adapter plate. Its sides extend three inches below the crankshaft center line.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-29 xx» Piston Removal

(1) Remove the top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing the pistons from the cylinder block. Be sure to keep the tops of the pistons covered during this operation.

NOTE

: Pistons and' connecting rods must be removed from the top of the cylinder Mock. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the engine, rotate the crankshaft so each connecting rod is centered in the cylinder bore.

(2) Remove the connecting rod cap.

(3) Install Tool C-3221 on one connecting rod bolt and protector over the other bolt and push each piston and rod assembly out of the cylinder bore.

(4) After removal, install the corresponding bearing cap on the rod.

CROSS-HATCH PATTERN

b. Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean the cylinder block thoroughly and check all the core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.

(2) I f new core hole plugs are Installed, coat the edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer and drive plugs in place with driver, Tool C-897.

(3) Examine the block for cracks or fractures. c. Inspection Cylinder Bores

The cylinder walls should be measured for out-ofround and taper with Tool C-119. I f the cylinder bores show more than ,005" out-of-round, or a taper of more than .010" or if the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the cylinder block should be rebored and honed, and new pistons and rings fitted.

Whatever type of boring equipment is used, boring and honing operation should be closely coordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings in order that specified clearance may be maintained.

Fig. 40 —

62XJ64

Cross-Hcrtch Pattern ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Inspect the cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil

C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from major oil distributors. Do not use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or kerosene.

(3) Honing with Tool C-3501 should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern. When hone marks intersect at

60°, the cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seating of rings (See Fig. 40).

(4) After honing, i t is necessary that the block be cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives.

Wash the cylinder block and crankshaft thoroughly. d. Honing Cylinder Bores

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean rags under the bores, over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials from entering the crankcase area.

(1) To remove light scoring, scuffing or scratches from the cylinder walls, use resizing hone Tool C-

823 with 220 grit stones. Usually a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.

(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls should be done using a cylinder surfacing hone, Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20 to €0 strokes depending on the bore condition will be suf-

CAUTION

Be sure all abrasives are removed from the engine parts after honing. I t is recommended that a solution of soap and water be used with a brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore can after cleaning to prevent rusting.

be considered clean when it can be wiped clean with a white cloth and the cloth remains clean. Oil bores e.

Pistons

The pistons are cam ground so that the diameter at the pin boss is less than its diameter across the thrust face. This allows for expansion under normal operating conditions. Under operating temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away from each

MyMopar.com

9-30 ENGINE

.030 TO .038 IN. LESS .

"THAN DIAMETER AT (C) PRESS

C - * C

M A I N

SCREW

(TOOL)

-PILOT (TOOL)

D

-H

*-~D

THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE OF

THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD

BE .010 TO .012 IN. LESS AT

DIAMETER (A) THAN ACROSS

THE THRUST FACES AT DIAM-

ETER (B). MEASUREMENT

IS MADE V

8

IN. BELOW

LOWER RING GROOVE

DIAMETERS AT ( 0 AND (D)

CAN BE EQUAL OR DIAMETER

AT (D) CAN BE .0015 IN.

GREATER THAN (C)

Fig. 41 — Piston Measurements

60x220

PISTON

ANVIL (TOOL)

58x166

Fig. 43—Removing the Piston Pin from the

Connecting Rod other, thus causing the piston to assume a more nearly round shape. It is important that old or new pistons be checked for taper and elliptical shape before they are fitted into the cylinder bore. (See

Fig. 41). top of skirt 90 degrees to the piston pin axis. The cylinder bores should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft center line. i Finished Pistons NOTE: Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at normal room temperature, 70 degrees F .

All pistons are machined to the same weight in grams, regardless of oversize so piston balance can be maintained. For cylinder bores which have been honed or rebored, pistons are available in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020, and .040 inch.

All service pistons include pins, and are available in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020 and .040 inch. h. Removal of Piston Pin g. Fitting Pistons

The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.

The specified clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall is .0003 to .0013 inch.

The piston diameter should be* measured at the

(1) Arrange Tool C-3624 parts for the removal of piston pin, as shown in Figure 42.

(2) Install pilot on the main screw.

(3) Install the main screw through the piston pin.

(4) Install anvil over the threaded end of the main screw with small end of anvil against the piston boss.

NUT (TOOL)

ANVIL (TOOL)

NOTE: Be sure spring is removed from the anvil.

PISTON

PILOT (TOOL)

(5) Install nut loosely on the main screw and place the assembly on a press as shown in Figure

43.

MAIN

/SCREW (TOOL)

(6) Press the piston pin out of connecting rod.

&~ GUIDE-SMALL

NOTE: When the pin falls free from the connecting rod, stop the press to prevent damage to bottom of

CONNECTING ROD ^ N s ^ ^ S ^

58x

195

B GUIDE-LARGE (TOOL) ^^Sfi

Fig. 42

—

Tool Arrangement lor Removing Piston Pin

(7) Remove the tool from the piston.

L Fitting Rings

(1) Measure the piston ring gap about two (2)

MyMopar.com

PISTON RING

FEELER GAGE

RING GROOVE

PISTON PIN

ENGINE 9-31

PRESS

M A I N S C R E W

( T O O L )

P I S T O N

58x165 A

Fig. 44—Measuring the Piston Ring Clearance inches from bottom of cylinder bore In which It is to be fitted. (An Inverted piston can be used to push the rings down to Insure positioning rings squarely

In the cylinder wall before measuring.)

(2) Insert the feeler stock in the gap. The ring gap should be between .013 to .032 Inch for the compression rings and .015 to .062 Inch for the oil ring steel rails in standard size bores. Maximum gap on

.005 inch O/S bores should be .040 inch for compression rings and .070 inch for the oil ring steel rails.

(3) Measure the side clearance between the piston ring and the ring groove. (Fig. 44) The clearance should be .0015 to .003 inches for the top compression ring and the intermediate ring, and .009 inch for the oil control ring, for new service rings.

(4) Install the oil ring in the lower ring groove using the instructions in the ring package.

(5) Install the compression rings in the middle and top grooves, so that the side marked 'TOP" is up.

(6) Use ring installer Tool C-3628 for the 361 cubic inch engine, Tool C-3673 for the 383 cubic inch engine, and Tool C-3671 for the 413 cubic inch engines.

ANVIL (TOOL)

• SPRING (TOOL)

PILOT (TOOL)

PISTON

Fig. 46 — Installing the Piston Pin in Connecting Rod j. Installation of Piston Pin

(1) Test the piston pin fit in the piston. I t should be a sliding fit in the piston at 70 degrees F. Piston pins are supplied in standard sizes only.

(2) Lubricate the piston pin holes in the piston and connecting rod.

(3) Arrange the Tool C-3624 parts for installation of piston pin, as shown in Figure 45.

(4) Install the spring inside the pilot and install the spring and pilot in the anvil. Install the piston pin over main screw.

(5) Place the piston, with "front" up, over the pilot so that the pilot extends through the piston pin hole.

(6) Position the connecting rod over the pilot which extends through the piston hole.

NOTE: Assemble the rods to pistons of the right cylinder bank (2, 4, 6, and 8) with the indent on the piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod.

Assemble the rods to pistons of the left cylinder bank (1, 3, 5, and

7) with the indent on the piston head on the same side as the large chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod.

58x196B

,MAIN SCREW

^ X j , /

(TOOL)

GUIDE-SMALL

(TOOL)

CONNECTING ROD

GUIDE-LARGE (TOOL)

Fig. 45—Tool Arrangement for Installing Piston Pin

(7) Install the main screw and piston pin in the piston, as shown in Figure 45.

(8) Install the nut on puller screw to hold assembly together. Place assembly on a press, as shown in

Figure 46.

(9) Press in the piston pin until piston pin "bottoms" on the pilot properly positioning the pin in the connecting rod.

MyMopar.com

9-32 ENGINE

(10) Remove the tool and arrange tool parts and piston assembly in the same manner, as shown in

Figure 42.

(11) Place the assembly in a vise, as shown in

Figure 47.

(12) Attach the torque wrench to nut and check torque up to 15 foot-pounds torque. I f the connecting rod moves downward on the piston pin, reject this connecting rod and piston pin combination. Obtain a connecting rod with proper small end bore diameter and repeat the installation and checking procedure.

(13) I f the connecting rod does not move under

15 foot-pounds torque, the piston pin and connecting rod interference Is satisfactory, the tool may be removed.

58x169

Fig. 48 — Showing Location of the External

Engine Numbering Pad

CONNECTMG RODS

IMPORTANT

A Maltese Cross stamped on the engine numbering pad (Fig. 48) Indicates that engine Is equipped with a crankshaft which has one or more connecting rods and/or main bearing journal finished .001 inch oversize. The position of the undersize journal or journals is stamped on a machined surface of the No. 3 counterweight (Figure 49).

Connecting rod journals are identified by the letter "R" and main bearing journals by the letter

" M " . For example " M - l " indicates that No. 1 main bearing is .001 inch undersize.

INSTAULATION OF CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

NOTE: Fit all rods on one bank until completed. Do not alternate from one bank to another, because when the rods are assembled to pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.

Each bearing cap has a small " V " groove across the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that the " V " groove in shell is in line with " V " groove in cap. This allows lubrication of the cylinder wall. The bearings should always be installed so that small formed tang fits into machined grooves of rods. The end clearance should be from .009 to .017 inch (two rods).

Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to a maximum of .001 inch.

Bearings are available in .001, .002, .003, .010 and

.012 inch undersize.

NOTE: Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not file the rods or bearing caps.

NUT-

(TOOL)

PISTON

TORQUE WRENCH

SOCKET

ANVIL (TOOL)

M • | * J t M A I N )

J

4

LETTERS

MAIN SCREW

(TOOL)

58x168 B

Fig. 47—Testing Fit with Pin in Connecting Rod

5 5 x 1 6 2

Fig. 49—Showing Location of Mark of No. 3

Counterweight

MyMopar.com

Fig. 50—Removing Connecting Rod Using Tool C-3221

ENGINE 9-33

NOTE: Rotate the crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is on center of the cylinder bore.

(5) Attach the puller part of Tool C-3221 on the other bolt, and guide the rod over the crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 50.

(8) Tap the piston down in the cylinder bore, using the handle of a hammer. A t the same time, guide the connecting rod into position on crankpin journal.

(7) The notch or groove on the top of the piston must be pointing toward front of the engine and the larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankpin journal fillet.

(8) Install the rod caps, tighten nuts to 45 footpounds torque.

MEASURING THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING

CLEARANCE (PLASTIGAGE METHOD)

Connecting rod bearing clearance measurements can be made by the use of Plastigage with the engine in the chassis. After removing the connecting rod cap, wipe off the oil from the crankpin journal and bearing inserts. Place the Plastigage on bearing parallel with crankshaft. Reinstall the cap and tighten attaching nuts alternately to specified torque.

Remove the cap and measure the width of the compressed material with the graduated scale to determine the bearing clearance. Desired clearance is from .0005 to .0015 inches. I f taper of the compressed material is evident, measure with the graduated scale. I f the taper appears to exceed .005 inch, the journal should be checked with micrometers.

INSTALLING THE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLY IN CYLINDER BLOCK

CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNALS

The crankshaft main bearing journals should be inspected for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Journal grinding should not exceed .012 inch under the standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind the thrust faces of the No. 3 main bearing. DO NOT nick the crankpin or main bearing fillets. After regrinding, remove the rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all oil passages.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS

New lower main bearings of 1, 2, 4 and 5 numbers are interchangeable, as shown in Figure 51. New upper main bearings of 1, 2, 4 and 5 numbers are interchangeable. Upper and lower bearings are not interchangeable because the upper bearing is grooved and the lower is not.

The upper and lower No. 3 bearings are flanged

(1) Before installing the pistons, rods, and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression ring gaps are staggered so that neither are in line with the oil ring rail gaps.

(2) The oil ring expander ends should be positioned toward the outside of the " V " of the engine.

The oil ring rail gaps should be positioned opposite each other and above the piston pin holes.

(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, slide the ring compressor, Tool C-385, over the piston and tighten with the special wrench

(part of Tool C-385).

(4) Be sure the position of rings does not change during this operation. Screw the connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool C-3221) on one rod bolt, and insert the rod and piston into cylinder bore. f mm W W ttia

THRUST BEARING

LOWER r

t A^,-y-->?%# / •rfferililiriiHiniT

I

JnflHHHHVi J ^ H I H H H b AteA^fc^&d

= 5 -

= ! p 5 a x l

7 2

Fig. 51—Upper and Lower Main Bearings

MyMopar.com

9-34

ENGINE to carry the crankshaft thrust loads and are not Interchangeable with any other bearings In the engine.

NOTE: Bearings that are not badly worn or pitted must be reinstalled in the same position.

The bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal to insure correct assembly. Bearings are available in standard and the following undersizes: .001, .002, .003, .010 and .012

Inch. Do not install an undersize bearing that will reduce the clearance below specifications.

MAIN BEARINGS a.

Removal

(1) Remove the oil pan and mark bearing caps before removal.

(2) Remove the bearing caps one at a time. Remove the upper half of bearing by inserting Tool

C-3059 (Figure 52) Into the oil hole of crankshaft.

(3) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out upper half of bearing.

Fig. 53—Installing Rear Main Bearing

Lower Oil Seal with a strip of .005 to .015 inch cardboard between lower bearing and journal. Use extreme caution when this is done to avoid unnecessary strain on the crankshaft or bearings, or false reading may be ob- » tained. Do not rotate the crankshaft while the plastigage is installed. Be sure to remove cardboard before reinstalling oil pan. b.

Measuring Main Bearing Clearance

Plastigage Method, Use the same technique as described In "Measuring the Connecting Rod Bearing

Clearance."

CAUTION

I f the bearings are measured with the engine in the chassis, the crankshaft must be supported in order to take up clearance between the upper bearing insert and the crankshaft journal. This can be done by snugging bearing caps of the adjacent bearings

I t is permissible to use one .001 inch undersize bearing shell with one standard bearing shell, or one

.002 inch undersize bearing shell with one .001 inch undersize shell. Always use the smaller diameter bearing half as the upper. Do not use a new bearing with a used bearing and never use an upper bearing half more than .001 inch smaller than the lower bearing half. c. Installation of Upper Main Bearing

NOTE: When installing a new upper bearing, slightly chamfer the sharp edge from the plain side.

(1) Lubricate the bearing. Start bearing in place, and insert Tool C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft (Figure 52).

(2) Slowly rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise sliding the bearing into position.

(3) After all bearings have been fitted, tighten all caps to 85 foot-pounds torque. The crankshaft end clearance at the # 3 main bearing should be .002 to .007 inch.

Fig. 52

—

Removing Main Bearing Upper Shell

REPLACEMENT OF THE REAR MAIN BEARING

OIL SEAL (Crankshaft Removed) a. Removal

(1) Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the cylinder block so that both ends protrude.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-35

-." ; NEWPORT 300

NEW YORKER

i m r c w A t —

^ ' ^ 2 ? ^ %

'"V /\ s , NEWPORT .

VIEW A , 300 •

/ * / /.

HEAT ' / ^

SHIELD "

A

NEW YORKER IMPERIAL )—7

62x277

58x238 . • , ' ^ ' V ^ '

1

Fig. 54—Triinniing Rear Main Bearing Lower Oil Seal a. Removal

Fig. 55—Front Engine Mounts

(2) Tap the seal down into position, using Tool

C-3625 with bridge removed until the tool is seated in the bearing bore.

(3) Hold the tool in this position and cut off the portion of the seal that extends above the block on both sides.

(1) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the transmission and at the carburetor.

(2) Raise the hood and position the fan to clear the radiator hose and the radiator top tank.

(3) Remove the torque nuts from the frame bracket studs.

(4) Raise the engine just enough to remove the front engine mount assembly. b. Rear Main Lower Seal Installation b. Installation

(1) Install a new seal in the seal retainer so that the ends protrude. Figure 53.

(2) Install the bridge on tool and tap the seal down into position with Tool C-3625 until tool is seated.

(3) Trim off the portion of the seal that protrudes above the cap Figure 54.

(1) Install the mounts on the engine and tighten the nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque, as shown in Figure 55.

BOLT

NUT

LOCKWASHER c. Side Seals Installation

NOTE: Perform the following operations as rapidly as possible.

These side seals are made from a material that expands quickly when oiled.

(1) Apply mineral spirits or diesel fuel to side seals.

(2) Install seals immediately in seal retainer grooves.

(3) Install seal retainer and tighten screws to 30 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE : Failure to pre-oil seals will result in oil leak.

FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS

NOTE: Frame bracket studs and torque nuts are used in the place of bolts. Heat shields have been added to protect the engine mounts.

ENGINE REAR

SUPPORT

INSULATOR

BACKING PLATE

LOCKWASHER-

NUT'

WASHER

" ^ ^ V

COIL SPRING

CONTROL

BUMPER

FRAME

CROSSMEMBER

BRACKET

60 x 4

Fig. 56—Rear Engine Mount (Manual Trans,)

SC-L SC-2, SC-2-300H.

MyMopar.com

9-36 ENGINE

I b J H TRANS.

INSULATOR

E X T

-

( R E F J

Fig. 57—Hear Engine Mount, SY -1

(2) Slide the heat shields over the engine mount bolts and install the second nuts. Tighten the nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Lower the engine and install the washers and pre-torque nuts on the frame bracket studs.

Tighten the nuts to 75 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Connect the throttle to transmission and carburetor linkage.

REAR ENGINE MOUNT (Figs.

a. Removal

(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.

(2) Install the transmission jack.

(3) Remove the rear engine crossmember from the frame.

(4) Remove the rear engine mount from the crossmember. b. Disassembly

56, 57 and 58)

Fig. 58 — Rear Engine Mount (Automatic Trans.)

SC-L SC-2, SC-3, SC-2-300H. of air drawn into the crankcase through the oil filler cap, circulated through the engine, and drawn out of the right cylinder head cover by manifold vacuum into the combustion chambers and dispelled with the exhaust gases. (Fig. 59.)

The system consists of a ventilation valve installed in the outlet vent cap on the right cylinder head cover, and a tube (capable of withstanding 20 inches of vacuum). The tube is connected between the outlet vent cap and the lower part of the carburetor throttle body. The function of the valve is to regulate the flow of crankcase ventilation at various throttle positions.

The system will operate effectively as long as normal maintenance is applied. The valve and tube are subject to fouling with sludge and carbon formation due to the nature of the material carried by the ventilating system.

When replacing the coil spring refer to Figure 56,

57 and 58 for proper assembly.

Removal and Installation c. Installation

Every 8,000 miles remove the valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover and detach from the hose. Remove the valve from the cap. Soak the valve

(1) Install the rear engine mount to the transmission and tighten bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Install the rear engine crossmember to the frame and tighten the bolts to 75 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Remove the transmission jack.

(4) Install the rear engine mount to the crossmember bolts and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Lower the vehicle.

SPRING RETAINER

CLOSED CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM

(On Vehicles So Equipped)

The closed crankcase ventilation is effected by means Fig. 59—Crankcase Ventilation Valve (Disassembled)

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-37 in MoPar Carburetor Cleaner, Part No. 1643273, and blow out with compressed air. I f the valve has been properly cleaned, the shuttle valve will click when the unit is shaken, and the outlet passage should be clean. I f the valve is badly plugged and cannot be cleaned by this procedure, it will be necessary to disassemble the valve and thoroughly clean all elements. I f the valve is disassembled, great care should be taken not to stretch the spring and to reassemble the pieces in the proper order. Note: The free height of this spring is

While the ventilation valve and cap assembly are removed for cleaning, put a finger over the open end of the ventilator hole and have the engine started.

If the ventilator hose and carburetor passages are open and operating normally a strong suction will be felt and there will be a large change in engine idle quality when the end of the hose is uncovered. I f these conditions are not observed, the carburetor passages and/or ventilator hose are plugged and must be cleaned. The carburetor should be removed from the engine and the ventilation passages cleaned by dipping the lower part of the carburetor in the cleaner.

A pipe cleaner or wire can be used to aid cleaning the passages. I t is not necessary to disassemble the carburetor for this cleaning operation.

Unless the spring is properly assembled, the valve will not contact the valve seat squarely and will not close properly. Consequently, the engine will not idle properly due to the entrance of too much air into the intake manfold. I f the spring has been stretched the same trouble may occur.

If improper action of the spring is suspected due to spring being distorted, bent or etched from corrosive action, the valve assembly should be replaced.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Engine Will Not Start (a) Weak battery.

(b) Corroded or loose battery connections.

(a) Test the battery specific gravity and recharge or replace as necessary.

(b) Clean and tighten the battery connections. Apply a coat of petrolatum to the terminals.

(c) Test and replace i f necessary.* (c) Faulty coil or condenser.

(d) Dirty or corroded distributor contact points.

(d) Clean or replace as necessary.*

(e) Moisture on ignition wires and (e) Wipe wires and cap clean and dry. distributor cap.

(f) Incorrect spark plug gap.

(f) Set the gap at .036".

(g) Incorrect ignition timing.

(g) Refer to 'IgnitionTiming."*

(h) Faulty ignition cables.

(I) Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor.

(h) Replace any cracked or shorted cables.

(i) Clean the lines and carburetor.**

(j) Carburetor flooded. (j) Adjust the float level—check seats.**

(k) Incorrect carburetor float setting. (k) Adjust the float level—check seats.**

(1) Faulty fuel pump. (1) Install a new fuel pump. * *

(m) Carburetor percolating. No fuel (m) Measure the float level.** Adjust the in the. carburetor. bowl vent. Inspect the operation of the manifold control valve.

(n) Faulty starting motor. (n) Refer to "Starting Motor."*

MyMopar.com

9-38 ENGINE

Condition

Engine Stalls

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Possible Cause

Engine Loss of Power

Engine Misses on

Acceleration

Correction

(a) Idle speed set too low.

(b) Idle mixture too lean or too rich.

(a) Adjust carburetor.**

(b) Adjust carburetor.**

(c) Incorrect carburetor float setting. (c) Adjust float setting.**

(d) Incorrect choke adjustment.

(e) Leak in intake manifold.

(d) Adjust choke.**

(e) Inspect intake manifold gasket and replace i f necessary.***

(f) Dirty, burned or incorrectly gapped distributor contact points.

(f) Replace points and ad j ust. *

(g) Worn or burned distributor rotor. (g) Install a new rotor.

(h) Incorrect ignition wiring.

(i) Faulty coil or condenser.

(h) Install the correct wiring.

(i) Test and replace if necessary.*

(a) Incorrect ignition timing. (a) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*

(b) Worn or burned distributor rotor. (b) Install a new rotor.

(c) Wrong mechanical or vacuum advance (distributor).

(c) Install correct vacuum advance unit.

Adjust the mechanical advance.

(d) Excessive play in distributor shaft.

(d) Remove and repair distributor.*

(e) Worn distributor shaft cam.

(g) Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor.

(e) Remove and repair distributor.*

(f) Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.

(f) Clean plugs and set gap at .035".

(g) Clean lines and carburetor.**

(h) Incorrect carburetor float setting.

(h) Adjust float level.**

(i) Faulty fuel pump.

(i) Install a new pump.

(j) Incorrect valve timing,

(j) Refer to "Checking Valve Timing."***

(k) Blown cylinder head gasket.

(1) Low compression.

(m) Burned, warped, pitted valves.

(k) Install a new head gasket.***

(1) Test the compression of each cylinder.***

(m) Install new valves.***

(n) Plugged or restricted exhaust system.

(n) Install new parts as necessary.

(o) Faulty ignition cables.

(p) Faulty coil or condenser.

(o) Replace any cracked or shorted cables,

(p) Test and replace as necessary.*

(a) Dirty, burned, or incorrectly gapped distributor contact points.

(a) Replace the points and adjust.*

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-39

SEHVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Engine Misses at High

Speed

(b) Dirty, or gap too wide in spark plugs.

(b) Clean and dry the spark plugs and set the gap at .035".

(c) Incorrect Ignition timing. c) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*

(d) Dirt In carburetor. d) Clean the carburetor.**

(e) Acceleration pump in carburetor. e) Install a new pump.**

(f) Burned, warped or pitted valves. f) Install new valves.***

(g) Faulty coil or condenser. g) Test and replace i f necessary.*

(a) Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor.

(b) Dirty jets in carburetor.

(c) Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor contact points. a) Clean the lines and the carburetor.* * b) Clean the jets.** c) Clean or replace as necessary.*

(d) Dirty or gap set too wide in spark plugs.

(e) Worn distributor shaft cam.

(f) Worn or burned distributor rotor.

(g) Excessive play In distributor shaft.

(h) Faulty coil or condenser.

(i) Incorrect ignition timing. d) Clean and dry the spark plugs and set the gap at .035". e) Remove and repair the distributor.* f) Install a new rotor. g) Remove and repair the distributor.* h) Test and replace i f necessary.* i) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*

Noisy Valves (a) High or low oil level in crankcase.

(b) Low oil pressure.

(c) Dirt in tappets.

(d) Bent push rods.

(e) Worn rocker arms. a) Check for correct oil level.*** b) Check the engine oil level.*** c) Clean the tappets.*** d) Install new push rods.*** e) Inspect the oil supply to rockers.***

(f) Worn tappets.

(g) Worn valve guides.

(h) Excessive run-out of valve seats or valve faces. f) Install new tappets.* * * g) Ream and install new valves with O/S stems.*** h) Grind the valve seats and valves.* * *

Connecting Rod Noise (a) Insufficient oil supply.

(b) Low oil pressure.

(c) Thin or diluted oil.

(d) Excessive bearing clearance. a) Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve, damper and spring.*** b) Check the engine oil level.*** c) Change oil to correct viscosity. d) Measure the bearings for correct clearances or failures.***

MyMopar.com

940 ENGINE

Condition

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CONT'D.

Possible Cause Correction

Main Bearing Noise

Oil Pumping at Rings

Oil Pressure Drop

(e) Connecting rod journals out-ofround.

(e) Remove the crankshaft and regrind journals.***

(f) Misaligned connecting rods. (f) Replace the bent connecting rods.***

(a) Insufficient oil supply.

(b) Low oil pressure.

(c) Thin or diluted oil.

(d) Excessive bearing clearance.

(e) Excessive end play.

(a) Check the engine oil level. Inspect the oil pump relief valve, damper and spring.***

(b) Check the engine oil level.***

(c) Change the oil to correct viscosity.

(d) Check the bearings for correct clearances or failures.***

(e) Check #3 main bearing for wear on flanges.***

(f) Crankshaft journals out-or-round or worn.

(f) Remove the crankshaft and regrind journals.***

(g) Loose flywheel or torque converter.

(g) Tighten to the correct torque.

(a) Worn, scuffed, or broken rings. (a) Hone cylinder bores and install new rings.***

(b) Carbon in oil ring slots.

(c) Rings.

(b) Install new rings.***

( 0 Remove the rings. Clean the grooves.

Check the groove width.***

(d) Rings fitted too tight in grooves. (d) Remove the rings. Check the grooves. I f groove Is not proper width, replace the pistons.***

(a) Low oil level. (a) Check the engine oil level.

(b) Faulty oil pressure sending unit. (b) Install a new sending unit.

(c) Thin or diluted oil. (c) Change the oil to correct viscosity.

(d) Oil pump relief valve stuck. (d) Remove the valve and inspect, clean ,and reinstall.

(e) Oil pump suction tube loose bent or cracked.

(e) Remove the oil pan and install a new tube If necessary.

(f) Clogged oil filter.

(g) Excessive bearing clearance.

(f) Install a new oil filter.

(g)

Check the bearings for the correct clearance.***

•Refer to the "Electrical and Instruments" Group 8 for service procedures.

** Refer to the "Fuel System" Group 14 for service procedures.

***Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 and "Engine Oiling System" Group 10 for service procedures.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

104

GHOUP 10

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

CONTENTS

Page

Engine Oil Pan. 2

Oil Filter. 4

Oil Pump 2

ENGINE LUBRICATION

Pump Type Rotor Full Pressure

Capacity (quarts) 5*

Pump Drive. Camshaft

Operating Pressure at 40 to 50 m p h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 65 lbs.

Pressure Drop Resulting from Clogged Filter 7 to 9 psi

Oil Filter Type. Full Flow

*When Filter is Replaced, Add 1 Quart.

R O C K E R A R M

Fig. 1—Engine Oiling System (Schematic Drawing)

MyMopar.com

10-2 ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

GROUP 10

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

The engine oiling system consists of an externally mounted rotor type oil pump, a full flow oil filter, oil pan and the necessary lubrication passages. Oil is forced by the oil pump through the filter to a series of oil passages in the engine, as shown in Figure 1.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

ENGINE OIL PAN a.

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery cable.

(2) Raise car on hoist and disconnect the steering linkage from idler arm and pitman arm.

(3) Remove the outlet vent pipe and disconnect the exhaust pipe branches from the right and left manifolds.

(4) Remove the clamp attaching exhaust pipe to extension and remove the exhaust pipe.

(5) Drain the crankcase oil.

(6) Remove the converter dust shield.

(7) Remove the oil pan bolts. Turn the flywheel until the counterweight and connecting rods at the front end of crankshaft are at their highest position to provide clearance, and lower the pan. Turn the pan counter-clockwise to clear the oil screen and suction pipe as i t is lowered.

(5) Connect the steering linkage at the idler arm and at the pitman arm.

(6) Connect the battery cable.

(7) Install the drain plug and refill the crankcase.

OIL PUMP a. Removal

Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and remove the pump and the filter assembly from the bottom side of the engine. b. Disassembly

(1) Remove the filter base and oil seal ring.

(2) Remove the pump rotor and shaft and lift out the outer pump rotor.

PLUG

GASKET

BOLTS AND WASHERS

- COVER /OIL FILTER b. Installation

(1) Check the alignment of the oil strainer. The bottom of the strainer must be on a horizontal plane with machined surface of cylinder block. The foot of the strainer should touch the bottom of the oil pan.

(2) Install the oil pan.

(3) Install the converter dust shield.

(4) Connect the exhaust pipe branches to manifolds and to the exhaust extension and install outlet vent pipe.

SPRING

RELIEF VALVE

PLUNGER

SEAL RING

GASKET/

"O" RING

7

58x173

P , N

i j g ^

Fig. 2—Oil Pump and Filter Assembly (Disassembled)

MyMopar.com

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM 10-3

Fig.

3 —Checking the Oil Pump Cover with a

Straightedge

Fig. 5—Measuring the Inner Rotor Thickness

(3) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug and lift out spring and relief valve plunger (Fig. 2). c. Inspection

(1) Clean all the parts thoroughly. The mating face of the filter 'base (oil pump cover) should be smooth. Replace the'filter base i f i t is scratched or grooved.

(2) Lay a straightedge across the oil pump filter base surface (Fig. 3). I f a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between the base and the straightedge, the filter base should be replaced.

(3) I f the outer rotor length measures less than

.943 inch (Fig. 4) and the diameter less than 2.469 inches, replace the outer rotor.

(4) I f the inner rotor length measures less than

.943 inch (Fig. 5), a new inner rotor should be installed.

(5) Slide the outer rotor and inner rotor into the pump body and place a straightedge across the face

(Between the bolt holes), as shown in Figure 6.

(6) I f a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between the rotor and straightedge replace the rotor.

(7) Remove the inner rotor and shaft leaving the outer rotor in the pump cavity.

(8) Press the outer rotor body to one side with the fingers and measure the clearance between the outer rotor and the pump body (Fig. 7).

(9) I f the measurement is more than .012 inch,

STRAIGHT EDGE \

51x66A DIAMETER

Fig. 4—Measuring the Outer Rotor Thickness Fig. 7—Measuring the Outer Rotor Clearance

MyMopar.com

10-4 ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

Fig. 8—Measuring

the Clearance Between Rotors replace the oil pump body.

(10) I f the top clearance between the inner and outer rotor (Fig. 8) is more than .010 inch, replace the inner and outer rotors.

Fig.

3 —Removing

or

Installing the Oil Filter d.

Inspect the relief valve .plunger, spring and damper.

I f the plunger is scratched, remove the scratches by polishing, or install a new filter base assembly which includes the plunger. I f the old plunger is to be reinstalled, clean i t and flush out the bore with engine oil.

I f the spring is to be replaced, use a new one of the same type. Do not use a heavier spring to raise the oil pressure. I f the oil pressure is low, inspect for worn bearings or look for other causes of possible loss of oil pressure. Different colored springs are used in the' oil pressure relief valve. The same colored spring should be installed. The springs come in three colors: Gray (light), Red (standard),

Brown (heavy). Be sure the damper is in place when the spring is installed.

NOTE; When assembling the oil pump, be sure to use new oil seal rings between the filter base and pump body. e.

Servicing

Oil Pressure

Installation

Relief

Valve

(1) Install a new "0" ring seal on the pilot of the oil pump before attaching the oil pump to the cylinder block.

(2) Install the oil pump on the engine, using a new gasket on the engine and tighten the attaching bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the oil filter element.

OIL FILTER

REPLACEMENT

The "spin on" oil filter should be replaced at every

4,000 miles to coincide with an oil change. a. Removal (Fig.

9)

Note: Use care so as not to damage the transmission oil cooler lines.

(1) Using Tool C-3654 unscrew the filter from the base on the bottom side of the engine and discard.

(2) Wipe the base clean. b. Installation

(1) Install the "spin on" oil filter by hand, finger tight. Do not use the tool.

(2) Tighten Vi turn only by hand. Check the engine oil level and add oil. Start the engine and check for leaks.

MyMopar.com

EXHAUST SYSTEM

11-1

G I O U P

11

EXHAUST SYSTEM

CONTENTS

Page

Exhaust Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -4

Exhaust Pipes, Mufflers and Tail P i p e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

-Intake Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Manifold Heat Control V a l v e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Manifold Heat Control Valve R e p l a c e m e n t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Service Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Testing Manifold Heat Control V a l v e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds

Ball Joint Screw. '20

Exhaust Manifold N u t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Exhaust Pipe Flange N u t . 40

Exhaust Pipe Support Clamp Bolts 10

Converter Housing Bracket Screw 15

Heat Control Counterweight Clamp B o l t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 (inch-pounds)

GROUP

11

EXHAUST SYSTEM

Longer life aluminized exhaust components are used on all models. The exhaust system is suspended by loop type hangers through the propeller shaft tunnel offering greater protection against road damage.

Ball joints which allow more accurate alignment of the exhaust system are located ahead of the mufflers, (Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7).

MyMopar.com

Fig.

1— Exhaust System (C-300H—High Performance)

MyMopar.com

Fig, 4—Exhaust System (SC-3) Town and Country

MyMopar.com

114 EXHAUST SYSTEM

Fig.

5— Exhaust System (SY-1)

INTAKE MANIFOLD (Figure 8)

Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 for removal and installation of the intake manifold.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD a. Removal

(1) Disconnect the spark plug cables at the spark plugs.

Fig. 6—Exhaust System Supports (SC-L SC-2, SC-3) Fig. 7—Exhaust System Supports (SY-1)

MyMopar.com

EXHAUST CROSSOVER PASSAGE /-WELL FOR AUTOMATIC

EXHAUST SYSTEM 11-5 the clamp nuts and bolts with penetrating oil to loosen the rust and dirt.

(2) Remove the clamps from the exhaust pipes, mufflers and tail pipes.

(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold and remove the exhaust pipe.

(4) Remove the muffler, extension pipe and the tail pipe assembly.

NOTE: If only the muffler is to be replaced, cut the extension at the muffler with a hack saw. I t is unnecessary to remove the exhaust pipe. The replacement muffler is installed using a clamp at the front of the muffler.

50x843

MOUNTING FLANGE

Fig. 8—Intake Manifold

(2) Remove the alternator from the right exhaust manifold.

(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifold flanges.

(4) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads.

(5) Slide the manifolds off the studs and away from the cylinder heads.

(6) Clean the exhaust manifolds in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air.

(7) . Inspect the manifolds for cracks and distortion. b. Installation

(1) Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Adjust the hanger heights for proper alignment.

(3) Tighten all slip joints to 10 foot-pounds torque. Work from the rear to the front of vehicle.

(4) Tighten all support clamps to 10 foot-pounds torque when installing the mufflers.

(5) Tighten the ball joint flange bolts to 20 footpounds torque. The inner surfaces of the flanges should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the pipe axis.

(6) Adjust the converter housing bracket, so that i t is flat against the converter housing and in the proper contact with the pipe tab. Tighten screws to 15 foot-pounds torque. b. Installation

(1) Place the exhaust manifolds on the studs on the cylinder heads and install the nuts. Tighten to

30 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Connect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the alternator on the right cylinder head and adjust the belt tension.

(4) Connect the spark plug cables to the spark plugs.

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

The purpose of the manifold heat control valve (Fig.

9) is to direct hot exhaust gas to a heat chamber in the intake manifold and pre-heat the fuel and air

EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS, TAIL PIPES a. Removal

(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and lubricate Fig. 9—Manifold Heat Control Valve

MyMopar.com

11-6 EXHAUST SYSTEM mixture, thus the fuel is vaporized to a greater degree before entering into the combustion chambers, providing faster warm up of cold engines.

When a cold engine is started the thermostatic coil exerts enough tension to keep the valve closed.

Thus, exhaust gases from the right exhaust manifold pass through the exhaust crossover branch in the intake manifold and into the left exhaust manifold.

When the spring heats up, i t loses tension and the valve opens, permitting exhaust gas from.the right exhaust manifold to pass directly to the exhaust pipe.

TESTING MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

Inspect the operation of the heat control valve every

1,000 miles and apply manifold heat control valve solvent MoPar Part No. 1879818 to both ends of the valve shaft. With engine idling (car standing) accelerate the engine and release quickly. The counterweight should respond by moving clockwise approximately

l

/% inch and return to its normal position.

The heat control valve can be disassembled and repaired as follows; a. Disassembly (Figure 9)

(1) Loosen the retaining nut and remove the counterweight, lock and stop from the end of the shaft, exposing the thermostatic coil.

(2) Unhook the coil from the pin and remove by prying out of valve shaft slot.

(3) I f the valve shaft is frozen in the manifold, apply manifold heat control valve solvent, MoPar

Part No. 1879318, and allow to stand several min-

EXHAUST

MANIFOLD—

RIGHT

INSTALLED POSITION

Fig. 11—Installing the Counterweight utes. Loosen by rotating the shaft back and forth until the shaft turns easily. b. Assembly

(1) Position the valve shaft in the extreme counterclockwise position.

(2) Place the new coil in position over the shaft slot, with the outer end tongue of the coil in the lower right-hand position, as shown in Figure 10.

Press the inner end of the coil into the slot of the shaft and seat firmly.

(3) Move the outer end tongue around and hook under the pin, as shown in Figure 10.

(4) Place the counterweight over the shaft (with the weight in the upward position) and insert the lock in the shaft slot, as shown in Figure 11. Center the counterweight on the shaft and turn the assembly clockwise until the stop passes the pin. Press the counterweight on the shaft until seated, install the stop and tighten the clamp bolt 50 inch-pounds torque, with Tool T109-173. Test the valve for proper operation.

N O T 1 : I f the composition on the stop is worn, replace with a new stop.

VALVE

Fig, 10—Positioning the Coil

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE REPLACEMENT a. Removal

(1) Remove the alternator.

(2) Remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold.

(3) Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.

(4) Remove the counterweight, thermostatic spring, shaft, clips and anti-rattle spring.

MyMopar.com

EXHAUST SYSTEM 117

(5) Cut the valve plate off of the shaft.

(6) Remove the shaft and bushings from the manifold. b. Installation

(1) Install the new bushings in the exhaust manifold.

(2) Position the shaft into both bushings and check the shaft for freedom of turning. Should the shaft fail to turn freely, it will be necessary to burnish the bushings.

(3) Pull the shaft out far enough to position the valve plate on the shaft, then slide shaft into position in both bushings.

(4) Align the hole in the valve plate with the hole in the shaft and insert a drift into both holes to maintain correct positioning of the valve plate as it is being welded to the shaft.

(5) Remove the drift from the valve plate and shaft.

(6) Install the new anti-rattle spring, shaft clips, thermostatic spring and counterweight assembly on the shaft.

(7) Install the manifold on the engine assembly.

(8) Using a new gasket, connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

(9) Install the alternator.

(10) Start the engine and test the operation of the manifold heat control valve assembly. c. Servicing

Test the manifold heat control valve for proper operation during lubrication and engine tune-up and apply Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent MoPar

Part No. 1879318 to both ends of valve shaft. See

"Lubrication/* Groun 0.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Excessive Exhaust Noise (a) Leaks at the pipe joints. (a) Tighten the clamps at the leaking joints.

(b) Burned or blown out muffler. (b) Replace the muffler assembly.

(c) Burned or rusted out exhaust (c) Replace the exhaust pipe. pipe.

(d) Exhaust pipe leaking at the man- (d) Install a new gasket and tighten the exifold flange. haust pipe flange nuts 40 foot-pounds torque.

(e) Exhaust manifold cracked or (e) Replace the manifold, broken.

(f) Leak between the manifold and (f) Tighten the manifold to cylinder block and cylinder block. nuts 30 foot-pounds torque.

Leaking Exhaust Gases (a) Leaks at the pipe joints. (a) Tighten the clamps at the leaking joints.

(b) Damaged or improperly installed (b) Replace gaskets as necessary, gaskets.

(c) Remove the restriction, i f possible or

(c) Restriction in muffler or tail pipe. replace as necessary.

MyMopar.com

11-8 EXHAUST SYSTEM

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS CONT'D.

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Engine Hard to Warm (a) Heat control valve frozen in the (a) Free up the manifold heat control valve

Up or Will Not Return to Normal Idle open position. using solvent number 1879318.

Noise in Manifold (a) Thermostatic spring broken.

(b) Weak or broken anti-rattle spring.

(a) Replace the spring.

(b) Replace the spring.

Manifold Heat Control

Valve Rattle

(a) Thermostatic spring broken. (a) Replace the thermostatic spring.

(b) Broken or weak anti-rattle spring.

(b) Replace the spring.

MyMopar.com

FRAME 13-1

GROUP 13

FRAME

CONTENTS

Page

Alignment Gauge Adapter Chart 6

Body to Frame Alignment 6

Checking Frame Alignment. 1

Frame Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

SERVICE PROCEDURES

The stub frame is attached to the body at ten locations—four at brackets extending down from the cowl panel and six under the front passenger compartment where the frame is joined to the underbody crossmember. Shimming of the stub frame outriggers, to keep them in alignment with the balance of the frame is performed prior to the body being installed on 'the frame.

FRAME ALIGNMENT MEASUREMENT

The various frame dimensions shown in Figures 1,

2, 3, 4 and 5 may be used as a guide in measuring the frame alignment. Diagonal measurements should be taken when straightening the frame.

Measure the distance between the points connected by line "A", in Figure 5, this distance should agree within *4 inch with the distance between the points connected by line " B " .

The diagonals shown in Figure I represent only one of a few that may be checked. Many other diagonals may be measured in the same way.

NOTE: Care should be taken to make sure that any

GAUGE HOLE

IN

EACH SIDE OF FRAME 60x209A

Fig.

i — Frame Dimensions (300-Newport) Fig. 2—Frame Dimensions (New Yorker)

MyMopar.com

13-2 FRAME

T O P OF FRAME LINE

7

Fig. 3—Frame Dimensions (Imperial)

57x140C two diagonals compared represent exactly corresponding points on each side of the frame.

Minor frame alignment can usually be corrected by straightening the frame parts which have been bent, although a badly distorted frame can in most cases be replaced more economically than by attempting repairs.

Fig. 4—Frame Dimensions (Imperial-Convertible)

MyMopar.com

FRAME 13-3

Fig. 7 —Splash Shield to Cowl Mounting

Fig. 5 —Frame Diagonal Measurements

FRAME REPLACEMENT (Chrysler) a. Removal

(1) Drain the radiator and remove the battery. i.2) Remove the front bumper and the hood assembly.

(3) Disconnect the radiator hoses from the radiator, the heater hoses, the head lamp wires and the horn wires.

(4) Remove the hood hinge to the fender mounting screws (one each side).

(5) Remove the screws attaching the voltage regulator, horn relay or starter solenoid from the fender splash shields.

(6) Remove the upper nuts and studs (two at each side) attaching the fender to the cowl panel

(Fig. 6).

(7) -Remove the bolts attaching the splash shields to the cowl (Fig. 7).

(8) Remove the splash shield to body frame bolts

(Fig. 8) and the splash shield to stub frame bolts

(Fig. 9).

(9) Remove the fender to body sill bolts (two each side), (Fig. 8) and the fender to body post bolts.

(10) Remove the bolts attaching the front end sheet metal to the stub frame yokes (Fig. 10).

(11) Disconnect the radiator yoke from the frame.

(12) Raise the fenders off of the mounting studs at the cowl and remove all front end sheet metal

Fig.

6 —Fender to Cowl Mounting Fig. 8—Splash Shield to Body Frame Mounting

MyMopar.com

13-4 FRAME

Fig.

S — Splash Shield to Stub Frame Mounting Fig. 11—Body to Frame Outrigger Mounting and radiator as an assembly. With all front end sheet metal removed, raise the vehicle on a hoist.

(13) Disconnect the propeller shaft and the transmission push button cable from the transmission.

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the front of the muffler. Disconnect the parking brake cable.

(14) Remove the steering gear arm and the steering gear to frame mounting bolts.

(15) Disconnect the fuel line from the flexible connection at the rear of the stub frame right side rail.

(16) Remove the brake line from the "tee" on the rear axle and at the "tee" on the stub frame left side rail.

(17) Lower and place the vehicle on floor stands.

The floor stands should be placed under the rear axle and under the forward edge of the floor sills.

NOTE: To protect the floor sills, wooden blocks should be placed between the floor stands and the floor sills.

(18) Disconnect all electrical wires from the engine, hand brake cable from inside the car, power steering hoses ( i f so equipped), brake lines at the master cylinder, carburetor, throttle linkage and the heater hoses.

(19) Place a hydraulic jack under the stub frame rear crossmember to hold i t in position when the body to the frame mounting bolts (Figs. 11 and 12) are removed.

NOTE: Two bolts are located near the top of the curved portion of the body to frame crossmember.

(20) Remove the frame to body bolts. Lower the stub frame and engine assembly and roll unit out from the body. b. Installation

I f frame is to be replaced, remove the engine and transmission, and all serviceable units from the old frame and install them on the new frame.

MyMopar.com

FRAME 13-5

(1) Position the frame and engine assembly under the body. .

(2)

Install the body

to

frame bolts and tighten to 75 foot-pounds torque.

(S) Measure the body to stub frame alignment.

See paragraph. "Body

to

Frame Alignment".

(4) Raise the c a r and connect the exhaust pipe to the muffler and the propeller shaft to the transmission.

(5) Connect

the fuel line to the

flexible

connector at the rear of the frame right side rail.

(6) Install the steering gear on the frame. Install the steering gear a r m and link.

(7)

Install the brake line to the rear axle tee.

(8)

L o w e r the vehicle to the floor and connect the

brake lines to the master cylinder.

(9) Connect the power steering hoses (on Power

Steering equipped cars) and the heater hoses.

(10) Connect the carburetor and throttle linkage.

(11) Connect the parking brake cable.

(12) Connect all electrical wires to the engine.

(13) Position the front end sheet metal on the frame and install the mounting bolts loosely.

Align the front end sheet metal and tighten all mounting bolts securely.

(14) Connect the radiator hoses and heater hoses.

F i l l the cooling system.

(15)

Raise the c a r and connect

the

transmission push button cable. A d j u s t the cable and lower

car

to

fioor.

(16) Refill the power steering unit w i t h Mopar

Fig. 14

—

Center Alignment Gauge Installed (Typical)

Power Steering fluid.

(On cars equipped with power steering.)

(17) Bleed and refill the braking system.

(18) Measure the front end height and adjust as necessary.

(19)

Measure the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Fig. 13 — Front Alignment Gauge Installed (Typical) Fig. 15 — Rear Alignment Gauge Installed (Typical)

MyMopar.com

13-6 FRAME

BODY TO FRAME ALIGNMENT

Body to Frame Alignment measurement should be performed whenever the stub frame has been removed, replaced, repaired or the front end sheet metal cannot be properly aligned.

To check the body to frame alignment, using Tool

C-3802, refer to the "Gauge Adapter Chart" to determine the correct gauge adapter positions.

(1) Remove the cotterpins from the lower control arm shafts and position the 36 inch gauge on the shaft nuts, as shown in Figure 13 and 14.

(2) Using the 45 inch gauge (middle gauge) position the gauge adapter in the frame cast holes, as shown in Figure 15.

(3) Place the horizontal alignment bars on the suspended gauges. The short bars are positioned on the front and center gauges and the long bars are positioned on the center and rear gauges, as shown in Figure 16.

(4) The long and short bar should be placed against each other to determine i f any body to frame deflection is evident.

(5) The top and bottom surfaces of the horizontal bars should be perfectly level across their combined surfaces where they meet, however, i f this condition is not prevailing, raise both the long

Fig. 17

—

Checking Body to Frame Alignment and short bar as a unit until they are perfectly level.

(6) Measure the space, created by leveling the bars, between the bars and the center gauge (Fig.

17).

The preferred spacing between the horizontal bars and the center gauge is 0 inch

±z

l

A§

inch. The differential measurements between one side to the other should not exceed Vs inch.

Example — Right side reads + V i

6

" . Left side should not exceed — %

6

" .

Should measurements be out of limits of the recommended settings, it will be necessary to install the slotted shims, available in %e and Vn inch thicknesses between the stub frame outriggers and the body front mounting brackets.

For example—if measurements at the center gauge is

±Va",

insert the necessary amount of shims at the front mounting brackets.

ALIGNMENT GAUGE

ADAPTOR CHART

Fig. 16

—

Horizontal Checking Bars in Position (Typical)

Model Wheelbase

Front

Gauge

Center Rear

Gauge Gauge

SC-l, SC-2

SC-3

SY-1

Town and Country

122

126

129

B

C

c c

A D

C D

C C

C C

After the frame to body adjustment is performed, remove the measuring gauges, and install the cotter pins in the lower control arm shafts.

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-1

GHOUP 14

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP. CARBURETOR, TANK)

CONTENTS

FUEL PUMP ' Page

Cleaning Fuel Pump Parts . 6

Disassembling the Fuel Pump 6

Reassembling the Fuel

Pump

6

Testing Fuel Pump on Vehicle 5

BBD SERIES CARBURETOR

Automatic Choke (Well Type) 15

Carburetor Adjustments. 12

Cleaning Carburetor

Parts

9

Disassembling the

Carburetor

8

Inspection and Reassembly 10

WWC3 SERIES CARBURETOR

Automatic Choke (Weil Type). 27

Carburetor Adjustments. 23

Cleaning Carburetor Parts. 19

Disassembling the

Carburetor ,

17

Inspection and Reassembly . . . . . . 20

AFB SERIES CARBURETOR

Automatic Choke (Well Type) 37

Carburetor Adjustments

34

Carburetor Adjustments (on Vehicle) 36

Cleaning Carburetor Parts 30

Disassembling the Carburetor 28

Inspection and Reassembly. 31

FUEL TANK

Installing the Fuel Tank... 39

Installing the Town and Country Wagon Fuel Tank , ., 41

Removing the Fuel T a n k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Removing the Town and Country Wagon Fuel Tank. 41

MyMopar.com

14-2 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

FUEL PUMP

Make Carter

Model. . " M-2769S

Type Diaphragm

Number of Valves.

3

Driven By Camshaft

Pump Pressure 3 y%

to 5 psi

BBD CARBURETOR

Type Bali and Ball Dual Throat

Model ' BBD—3244S *BBD—3245S

Carburetor used on Chrysler Model SC-2 SC-2

B o r e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wx{ W x

{

Venturi. I f f / l§f

6

"

Main Metering'Jet

Standard. No.

120-249S

No.

120-249S

One Step Lean. 120-251 120-251

Two Steps Lean 120-259 120-259

Step-Up Wire (Standard) 75-1526 75-1525

Diameter (2, Stage)

.026"

x

.032"

.026" x .031"

ADJUSTMENTS

Accelerator Pump Travel. 1" ±Uf 1" ± j ^ "

Float Setting (at Center of Floats) % { ' % { '

Bowl Vent Valve (Throttle Closed) .050" .060"

Choke Unloader. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

W %"

Idle Mixture Screws (Turns O p e n ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1

Idle Speed RPM (Curb Idle). 500 500

(Air Conditioned Cars) 500 500

Fast Idle Speed RPM 1400 1400

CHOKE

Control. Thermostatic Coil Spring

Type..... Well Well

Setting On Index On Index

*For use with closed crankcase vent system—-mandatory for California cars.

MyMopar.com

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

AFB CARBURETOR

T y p e . . . . . . . . . . .

4 Barrel Downdraft

Model (automatic transmission) AFB-3251S

(manual transmission)

AFB-3258S ' AFB-3259S

Carburetor Used on Car Model. SC3, SY1

C-300H C-300H

THROTTLE BORE

Primary

V4§

Secondary .. 1%" m"

AFB-3256S"

SC3, SY1

M A I N VENTURI

Primary . .

V4T

LOW SPEED JET

#68-.031" P

65-.035"

ADJUSTMENTS

Accelerator Pump Setting (top of plunger to airhorn). .

K

G"

Choke Unloader (wide open kick)

7 / //

: i 6 he

Fast Idle Speed (rpm) 1800

Idle Speed Adjustment (rpm) 500

(with air conditioning on) rpm 500

Secondary Throttle Lever Adjustment

% "

650

650

% "

.020" w

X

A"

1800

500

500

.020"

Float Setting (gasket to top of floats)

Float Drop

l{%

W

Idle Mixture (both screws—turns open). 1-2

Automatic Choke Unit Setting 2 Nothces Rich

None

W

1-2

1 Notch Rich

Free w

H"

1-2

2 Notches Rich

None

*For use with closed crankcase vent system —mandatory for California cars.

MyMopar.com

144 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

WWC3 SERIES STROMBERG

CARBURETOR

Type.

Dual Throat Downdraft

Model WWC3-201

Carburetor Used on Chrysler Model S C - l

Bore

Wi{

Venturi.

1%"

Main Metering Jet (Standard) Part No. (388186) .065

(One Step Lean) Part No. (388186) .063

(Two Steps Lean) Part No. (388186) .061

Power Jet. .040 to .075

A D J U S T M E N T S

Idle Mixture (Both Screws).

1

to

1J4

Turns Open

Idle Speed

(rpm)

500

(With Air Conditioning ON) rpm 500

Fast Idle Speed ( r p m ) . . . . . . . . . . . 1400

Fast Idle Speed Cam Index (choke blade opening) Drill—3

l

/i Turns

Accelerator Pump Travel (blades fully closed) %£'

Bowl Vent Valve (blades fully closed) % { '

Vacuum Kick (drill size)

.040"

and # 18

Float Setting M "

Unloader Adjustment (wide open kick)

CHOKE

T y p e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Well Type

Control. Thermostatic Coil Spring

Setting.

1

Notch Rich

FUEL TANK

Location—

Conventional

Under the Trunk Compartment

Town and Country Left Rear Quarter Panel

Capacity—Gallons—All Chrysler and Imperial

Models except Town and Country. 23

Town and Country 22

Filler Cap—AH M o d e l s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Non

Vented

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP f

CARBURETOR,

TANK) 14-5

GROUP 14

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP/ CARBURETOR, TANK)

FUEL PUMP

Fuel pump Model M-2769S is used on all Chrysler and Imperial engines. The service procedures for testing, disassembly, overhaul, cleaning and reassembly of the fuel pump appears below.

(3) Vent the pump for a few seconds (this relieves any air trapped in the fuel chamber). I f this is not done, the pump will not operate at full capacity and a low pressure reading will result.

(4) Connect a tachometer, then start the engine and run at 500 r.p.m. The reading should be from OPERATION—FUEL PUMP

The fuel pump (Fig. 1) is driven by an eccentric cam (cast integral with the camshaft) through the medium of a short push rod.

As the camshaft rotates, the eccentric cam presses against the push rod, forcing the pump rocker arm down. This action lifts the pull rod and diaphragm upwards against the fuel pump main spring, thus creating a vacuum in the valve housing, which opens the inlet valves, forcing fuel into the valve housing chamber. On the return stroke, the main spring forces the diaphragm to the down position which closes the inlet valves and expels the fuel in the valve housing chamber, through the outlet valve to the fuel filter and the carburetor.

It is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced when performing an engine tuneup or at least every

16,000 miles. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN. S C R E W

A S S E M B L Y

ROCKER ARM HOUSING

ROCKER ARM

FOLLOWER SPRING

DIAPHRAGM

AND PULL ROD

ASSEMBLY

VALVE-ASSEMBLY

(SERVICED ONLY

IN VALVE BODY)

TESTING THE FUEL PUMP

—

(On the Vehicle)

If the fuel pump fails to supply fuel properly to the carburetor, the following tests should be made be fore removing the fuel pump from the vehicle.

VALVE

BODY

SCREW ASSEMBLY a. Pressure Test

I f leakage is not apparent, test' pump for pressure, as follows:

(1) Insert a " T " fitting In the fuel line at the carburetor, as shown in Figure 2.

(2) Connect a 6 inch piece of hose between the

<€

T f

fitting and gauge Tool C-3411. (The hose should not exceed 6 inches. A longer hose may collect fuel and the additional weight would be added to the pressure of the pump and result in an Inaccurate reading).

AIR DOME

DIAPHRAGM

VALVE ASSEMBLY

(SERVICED ONLY

IN VALVE BODY)

COVER

60x189

Fig. I— Fuel Pump

M-2769S

(Exploded View)

MyMopar.com

146 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

DISASSiMBLMG T i l FUEL PUMP (Fig. 1)

NOTE: Before disassembling the fuel pump, mark the housings in such a manner that the "Inlet" will be facing the inlet fuel line when reassembled.

This is important!

Fig, 2

6 INCH

MAXIMUM

TACHOMETER

(ENGINE SPEED)

—Pressure Testing Fuel Pump zy% to 5 p.s.i. The pressure should remain constant or return to zero very, very slowly when the engine is stopped. An instant drop to zero Indicates a leaky outlet valve. I f the pressure is too low, a weak main spring or Improper assembly of the diaphragm may be the cause. I f the pressure is too high, the main spring is too strong. a. Removal

43.

(1) Eemove the pivot pin plug, using Tool T109-

(2) Disengage the rocker arm follower spring from the rocker arm and the rocker arm housing.

(3) Turn the pump on its side (pivot pin hole down) and tap gently to remove the pivot pin.

(4) Disengage the rocker arm from the diaphragm pull rod, by sliding rocker arm out of the housing.

(5) Remove the screws attaching the valve body to the rocker arm housing. Separate the valve body and rocker arm housing and lift out the diaphragm and pull rod assembly.

(6) Remove the screws that attach the valve body to the valve housing cover. Separate cover and valve body and remove the outlet air dome diaphragm. b.

Vacuum Test

The vacuum test should be made with the fuel line disconnected from the carburetor. (This will allow the pump to operate at full capacity, which It must do to prime a dry carburetor.)

The vacuum reading should be at least 10" h.g. vacuum at 500 r.p.m, with the fuel line disconnected at the carburetor. c. Volume Test

The fuel pump should supply 1 quart of fuel in 1 minute or less at 500 r.p.m. d. Met Valve Test

To test the inlet valve, connect a vacuum gauge on the inlet fitting while the line is disconnected.

(1) Start the engine or turn over with the starting motor.

(2) There should be a noticeable vacuum present, not alternated by blowback.

(3) I f blowback is present, the inlet valves are not seating properly and should be cleaned, or a new valve body Installed.

I f the fuel pump does not perform to the above test requirements, the fuel pump should be removed from the vehicle and reconditioned as follows: b. Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean all the fuel pump parts (except diaphragm) in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compressed air.

(2) Check the condition of the valve seats and parts for gum deposits.

(3) I f gum deposits are found, remoye with denatured alcohol.

(4) I f the valves are badly worn or damaged, install a complete new valve body assembly.

The valves are not serviced individually.

(5) Inspect the diaphragm for cracks, torn screw holes or ruptures. Check the rubber oil seal on the end of the pull rod for deterioration.

(6)

Inspect the outlet air dome diaphragm for cracks or deterioration.

(7) Inspect the rocker arm for scoring or galling on the camshaft or push rod bearing surface. c. Assembly (Fig. 1)

(1) Place the airdome diaphragm in position on the valve body or filter housing (depending on pump), with inlet passage hole over passage.

(2) Align the scribe marks on the cover (or filter housing, depending on pump) and the valve body,

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 147

then install attaching screws. Tighten securely.

(3) Slide the diaphragm pull rod up into the rocker arm housing. Place the valve body in position on the diaphragm with the scribe marks aligned. (Be sure the holes In the diaphragm, rocker arm housing and valve bodies are aligned.)

Compress the unit together and install the attaching screws, but do not tighten. NEVER USE

SHELLAC OR A N Y OTHER ADHESIVE ON THE

DIAPHRAGM.

(4) Slide the rocker arm into the housing and engage the diaphragm pull rod. Align the pivot pin holes in the arm with those in the housing, then install pivot pin. Install new plug and drive in securely.

(5) Install the rocker arm follower spring over the tab on the rocker arm and over the dimple in the housing.

(6) Engage the ends of the bowl retaining strap in the slots of the filter housing. Tilt the retaining strap to one side, far enough to install the ceramic filter.

(7) Install a new ceramic filter, spring and bowl

Center the bowl, then tighten the retaining screw securely.

(8) Place the pump in a vise (with protector jaws) and push on the rocker arm until full travel is reached. Hold in this position, vhile tightening the attaching screws. (This wiL orevent tearing of the diaphragm when the pump is in operation and the pump arm in its full stroke.)

(9)

Test the fuel pump as described previously.

Fig. 3—Carburetor Assembly BBD-3244S or BBD-3245S

MyMopar.com

C

14-8 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

BBD CAHBUHETORS

MODELS BBD-3244S or BBD-3245S

SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation.

Proper cleaning, however, and installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job. All parts should be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent and inspected for damage and wear.

Replace questionable parts with new ones.

Use air pressure only, to clear the various orifices and passages.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY (Fig. 3)

(1) Insert three Tool T109-287S and one Tool

T109-288S elevating legs through the carburetor throttle body stud holes. (These tools are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)

(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the fast idle connector rod from the throttle and fast idle levers.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the accelerator pump rod from the throttle lever and the pump rocker arm, as shown in Figure 4.

(4) Remove the air horn retaining screws and lift air horn straight up and away from the main body. Discard the gasket (2 screws recessed).

(5) Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from the accelerator pump arm by pushing up on bottom of plunger and sliding plunger shaft off hook, as shown in Figure 5. Slide plunger out of air horn and remove the compression spring and seat.

I f the old plunger can be used again or i f a new plunger is to be installed, place the plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

(6) Remove the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket from the main body.

(7) Lift out the float fulcrum pin retainer, and lift out the floats and fulcrum pin, as shown in Figure 6.

(8) Remove the step-up piston and retaining

ACCELERATOR

PUMP SHAFT S3»

ACCELERATOR

PUMP ARM

CHOKE PISTON

LINK

ACCELERATOR PUMP

CONNECTOR ROD

FAST IDLE

CONNECTOR ROD

HAIRPIN CLIP

58x241A

Fig. 4—Removing Fast Idle and Pump Rods

CHOKE

PISTON

PLUG

58x246A

Fig. 5—Removing the Accelerator Pump

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 143

Fig. 6—Removing the Float screw and slide the step-up piston and rods out of well, as shown in Figure 7. Lift out the step-up piston spring. Remove the step-up piston gasket from the bottom of the well.

(9) Remove the main metering jets and gaskets, as shown in Figure 8.

(10) Remove the venturi cluster idle bleed screws, then lift the venturi cluster and gaskets up and away from the main body, as shown in Figure 9.

Discard the gaskets. Do not remove the idle orifice tubes or the main vent tubes from the cluster. They can be cleaned in a solvent and dried with compressed air.

(11) Invert the carburetor and drop out the accelerator pump discharge check ball.

(12) Remove the idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body.

(13) Remove the screws that attach the throttle body to the main body. Separate the bodies and discard the gasket.

The carburetor now has been disassembled into three sub-assemblies, the air horn, main body and throttle body and the components of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

I t is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves from the throttle body, unless wear or damage necessitates the installation of new parts.

CLEANING CARBURETOR

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. There are other commercial solvents, however, which may be used with satisfactory results.

• IMPORTANT

I f the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the

Fig. 7—Removing the Step-Up Piston Fig. 9—Removing the Venturi Cluster

MyMopar.com

14-10 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

Fig. 10—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves use of water as a rinse, i t should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means, because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.

CAUTION

These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used at removal so as not to break off in the shaft.

(4) Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the body.

(5) Install new throttle shaft and lever.

(6) Install throttle valves in their respective bores

(with the valve numbers toward the manifold flange). Install new screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves in place, with the fingers pressing on the high sides of the valves, as shown in Figure 11. Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(7) Install the idle mixture screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, new idle mixture screws should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.) DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. Turn the screws lightly against their seats with the fingers. Back off one full turn for approximate adjustment.

INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY a. Throttle Body

(1) Inspect the throttle shaft and throttle body for excessive wear. If either or both are worn to the point where the carburetor operation will be affected, replace as required.

During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control ports to the throttle valve, is carefully established for one particular assembly (Fig. 10).

If a new shaft should be installed in an old, worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of the ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the relationship of the valves to the ports would adversely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour.

If it has been determined, however, that a new shaft or valves is to be installed, adhere to the following instructions.

(2) Mark the position of the throttle valves in the bores.

Be sure the idle speed screw is backed off.

(3) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the shaft and slide the valves out of the bores. b. Main Body

(1) Invert the main body and place a new gasket in position and place the throttle body on the main body and align. Install screws and tighten securely.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball in the discharge passage and check the accelerator pump system; fuel inlet and discharge check balls as follows:

Fig. 11—Installing the Throttle Valves

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-11

(3) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl, approximately.

y% inch deep. Remove the pump plunger from the jar of gasoline, flex the leather several times, then slide down into the pump cylinder. Raise the plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel all air from the pump passage.

(4) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball down firmly on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage, as shown In Figure 12.

I f any fuel does emit from either passage, i t indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check ball.

Check the passage again and repeat test. I f leakage is still evident, install a new check ball. The fuel inlet check ball is located at the bottom of the plunger well and should rattle freely when the carburetor is shaken.

(5) Install new gaskets on the venturi cluster, and install in position in the main body (Fig. 9).

Install, the idle bleed screws and tighten securely.

Test pump discharge by pressing pump plunger down. Two fine streams of fuel should be forced from the cluster. I f either stream is restricted or diverted, remove cluster and reclean. After test, pour the fuel from the bowl and remove pump plunger.

STEP-UP RODS MUST MOVE FREELY 60x106

Fig. 13—Step-Up Rod Free Play

(8) Slide the step-up piston gasket down into position in the piston well, then install the step-up piston spring, step-up piston and rods. Carefully guide the step-up rods into the main metering jets. (Fig. 7).

Install the retaining screw and tighten securely.

Check piston for free operation in the well.

A step-up piston stuck in the Up position will cause a rich mixture at part throttle, whereas a piston stuck in the Down position will cause a lean mixture at wide open throttle and poor acceleration.

(6) Install the main metering jets and gaskets.

Tighten securely. (Fig. 8).

(7) Before installing the step-up piston, be sure the step-up rods are able to move freely, each side of the vertical position, as shown in Figure 13. The step-up rods must be straight and smooth. c. Measuring the Float Setting

(Off

the Vehicle)

The carburetors for' the 1962 model vehicles are equipped with a new rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle.

The rubber tip is flexible enough to make a good seal on the needle seat, and to give increased resistance to flooding.

The use of the rubber-tipped needle requires a new procedure in adjusting the float setting. Care should be taken to perform this operation accurately in order to secure the best performance and fuel economy.

Fig. 12—Testing the Accelerator Pump Intake and

Discharge Check Balls

61x75

Fig. 14

—

Rubber Tipped Needle, Seat and Gasket

MyMopar.com

14-12 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

Fig* 15

—

Measuring the Float Setting

(1)

To correctly set the float height when the carburetor is being overhauled, install the floats with the fulcrum pin and pin retainer in the main body.

(2)

Install the rubber-tipped needle, seat and gasket in the body and tighten securely.

(See

Figure

14.)

(3) Invert the main body so that the weight of the float only is forcing the needle against the seat,

Hold finger against the retainer to fully seat the fulcrum pin.

(4) Using Tool T109-230, or a "T" scale, test the float, as shown In Figure 15. There should be %

2 inch from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of each float at the center.

I f an adjustment is necessary, hold the floats on the bottom of the bowl and bend the float lip toward or away from the needle. Recheck the %

2

inch setting again and repeat the lip bending operation as required. in the air horn. The shaft and piston must float free to operate correctly. I f the choke piston sticks in the cylinder, or appears to be gummed from deposits in the air horn, pierce the welsh plug and remove the plug and piston. Clean thoroughly and reinstall the piston. Install a new plug.

(2) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the gasoline, slide the compression spring and spring seat over the shaft. Install the assembly in the air horn and engage with the accelerator pump arm.

(Fig. 5.)

(3) Place a new gasket on the main body, and install the air horn. Install attaching screws and tighten securely. (When installing air horn, be sure the leather on the plunger does not wrinkle or fold back.)

(4) Engage the accelerator pump rod with the pump rocker arm and install loose end in the center hole of throttle lever. (Fig. 4). Install hairpin clip to secure.

(5) Engage the fast idle connector rod in the fast idle lever and throttle lever. Install hairpin clip to secure (Fig. 4).

CARBURETOR AGISTMENTS

I t is very important that the following adjustments are made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed: a. Accelerator Pump

(1) Back off the idle speed adjusting screw. Open the choke valve so that the throttle valves can be

CAUTION

When bending the float lip, do not allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

NOTE: After being compressed, the rubber tip is very slow to recover its original shape. I t is very important that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly. d. Air Horn

(1) Test the freedom of the choke mechanism Fig. 18

—

Measuring the Accelerator Pump Travel

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 1413 completely seated in the bores. Be sure that the pump connector rod is installed in the center hole of the throttle lever.

(2) Close the throttle valves tightly. Measure the distance between the top of the air horn and the end of plunger shaft, as shown in Figure 16. This measurement should be 1" + or — %

4

inch.

(3) To adjust pump travel, bend the pump connector rod, using Tool T109-213, at the lower angle of rod, until correct travel has been obtained. b. Fast Idle Adjustment (On the Bench)

(1) Open the throttle valves and hold the choke valve in the fully closed position. Close the throttle valves. This will position the fast idle cam to the fast idle position.

(2) Release the choke valve only. The index mark on the cam should split the center of the fast idle screw shank, as shown in Figure 17.

If an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the choke shaft lever, using Tool T109-22 until the index mark on the cam indexes with the adjusting screw. c. Choke Unloader (wide open kick)

(1) Hold the throttle valves in the wide open position. Insert Tool T109-31 (or a 14" drill shank) between the upper edge of the choke valve and the inner wall of the air horn, as shown in Figure 18,

(2) With a ringer lightly pressing against the valve, a slight drag should be felt as gauge is being withdrawn. I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the fast idle lever, using Tool T109-22, as shown in Figure 19 until correct clearance has been obtained.

Fig. 18

—

Measuring the Choke Unloader Setting d. Bowl Vent Valve Adjustment

(1) With the throttle valves held closely, i t should be possible to insert a .060" drill shank between the bowl vent valve and the air horn.

(2) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the short tang on the vent valve operating lever, using Tool

T109-22 until correct clearance has been obtained. e. Idle Speed Adjustment (Curb Idle)

To make the idle speed adjustment, the engine must be thoroughly warmed up. A more reliable idle adjustment can usually be obtained i f the car has been driven a minimum of five miles. For best results, i t is recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment.

The following precautions should be taken before making the idle speed adjustment:

Fig. 17

—

Fast Idle Index Mark Aligned Fig. 19

—

Bending the Fast Idle Lever Tang

MyMopar.com

14-14 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

Beause the alternator can charge at idle speeds and impose a load on the engine, the headlights should be turned on (high beam). This will assure setting the idle to compensate for the alternator load.

On cars equipped with automatic transmission, loosen the nut in the sliding link of the carburetor to bellcrank rod so that the stop in the transmission will not interfere with the free movement of the carburetor throttle lever.

(1) To make the idle speed adjustment, turn the

Idle speed screw in or out to obtain 500 rpm. (On cars with air conditioning, set the idle speed at 575 rpm.) Be sure the choke valve is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam.

(2) Turn each idle mixture screw to obtain the highest rpm. While making the adjustment, carefully watch the tachometer and notice that the speed can be decreased by turning the screws in either direction from the setting that gave the highest rpm reading.

(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the idle speed screw. (Witn air conditioning ON).

(4) Turn each idle mixture adjusting screw in the clockwise direction (leaner) until there is a slight drop in rpm. Turn each screw out, counterclockwise

(richer) just enough to regain the lost rpm.

This procedure will assure that the idle has been set to the leanest mixture possible for smooth idle.

This setting is very important.

Since the correct speed was originally set, using the speed screw, the speed obtained after finding the leanest smooth idle will probably be too fast.

(5) Readjust the speed screw to obtain correct idle speed. Repeat steps 2 and 4 above i f necessary.

After the proper idle speed has been obtained, move the sliding link to the rear against the stop and tighten the nut securely. lift the air horn straight up and away from the main body. Remove the gasket.

(4) Set the float fulcrum pin by pressing a finger against the fulcrum pin retainer.

There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise the floats so that the lip bears firmly against the needle. Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly depressing the float. I f the fuel pressure in the line is insufficient to force the additional fuel into the bowl, add the necessary fuel from a clean container.

Since the manifolds may be hot, i t is dangerous to spill fuel onto these surfaces. Take the necessary precautions to avoid spillage.

(5) With only the pressure from the buoyant float holding the lip against the inlet needle, check the float setting, using Tool T109-230, or a " T " scale.

There should be %

2

WARNING

inch from the surface of the bowl (gasket removed) to the crown of the floats at the center.

I f an adjustment is necessary, hold the floats on the bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward or away from the needle. Recheck the %

2

inch setting again, then repeat the lip bending operation as required.

CAUTION

When bending the float lip, do not allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

NOTE: After being compressed, the rubber tip is very slow to recover its original shape. I t is very important that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

(6) ' After the float has been correctly set, reassemble the air horn.

MEASURING THE FLOAT SETTING OR FUEL LEVEL

(On the Vehicle)

(1) To measure the float setting with the carburetor mounted on the engine, remove the hairpin clip and disengage the fast idle connector rod from the throttle and fast idle levers.

(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the accelerator pump rod from the throttle lever and the pump rocker arm. Disconnect the automatic choke rod by unsnapping clip.

(3) Remove the air horn attaching screws and

Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the Vehicle)

(1) With the engine not running, open the throttle halfway; close the choke valve, then allow the throttle to close.

The fast idle adjustment screw should be contacting the top step of the fast idle cam at the index mark. I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the choke shaft lever, using Tool Tl09-22 to secure proper position of the fast idle cam.

(2) With a tachometer connected and with the

MyMopar.com

CHOKE. ROD

COVER

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-15

DUST SEAL WASHER

CARBURETOR

ASSEMBLY

FRONT

CALIBRATION

MARKS

THERMOSTATIC COIL-*=*

SPRING ANO

HOUSING

INDEX MARK

62x123

Fig. 20-—Well Type Automatic Choke Unit

HOSE

CRANKCASE

VENT VALVE engine running and warmed up, and with the fast idle adjusting screw contacting the top step of the fast idle cam, turn the fast idle adjusting screw in or out to obtain 1400 rpm.

61x163

Fig. 21—Carburetor Assembly (BBD-3245 Closed

Crankcase Vent System)

AUTOMATIC CHOKE—WELL TYPE

To function properly, i t is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than an occasional cleaning, the choke requires no servicing. I t is very important, however, that the choke control unit work freely in the well and at the choke shaft.

Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement on the pivot. I f the unit binds, a new choke unit should be installed. THE WELL TYPE

CHOKE UNIT is serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to repair or change the index setting. (See

Fig. 20.)

When installing the well type choke unit, be certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the well in the intake manifold. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation.

Do not lubricate any parts of the choke or the control unit. This causes an accumulation of dirt which will result in binding of the choke mechanism.

CLOSED CRANICASE VENT SYSTEM

The closed crankcase ventilator valve is located in the crankcase vent tube cap and is connected to the carburetor throttle body with a rubber tube. (See

Fig. 21.)

The function of the valve is to regulate the flow of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase and return them to the intake manifold. From here they enter the combustion chamber and then exit with the exhaust system as completely burned exhaust products. For servicing procedures of this system, refer to "Engine," Group 9, of this Service Manual.

WWC3 SERIES STROMBERG CARBURETOR

The WWC3 Series Stromberg carburetor (Fig. 1) is a dual throat downdraft type, with each throat having its own idle system, main metering system and throttle valve. The idle and main metering system are supplemented by the float system, the accelerating system and the power system.

The carburetor incorporates an idle system vent, operated from the throttle linkage, a double vent u r i cluster which in addition to the small venturi, also includes the discharge nozzles, the main discharge tubes and the idle tubes in a single assembly.

MyMopar.com

1446 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE PISTON HOUSING

AIR

HORN

BOWL VENT VALVE

AUTOMATIC CHOKE LEVER

MAIN BODY

FUEL INLET CONNECTION

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS {2 J

ELEVATING LEGS (SET OF 4)

ACCELERATOR PUMP LEVER

VACUUM PASSAGE (DISTRIBUTOR)

CHOKE VALVE

FAST IDLE LEVER

AIR HORN

BOWL VENT VALVE

ACCELERATOR PUMP ROD

FAST IDLE C A M

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS

FAST IDLE ROD

MAIN BODY

THROTTLE BODY

FAST IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW (CURB IDLE)

Fig, i—-Carburetor Assembly (WWC3 Series)

60 K 331A

MyMopar.com

F U E L SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 1447

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for improper carburetor operation.

Proper cleaning-, however, and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job.

(1) All parts should be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for damage or wear.

(2) Use air pressure only, to clean the various orifices and channels.

(3) Replace questionable parts with NEW ones.

Always use a complete k i t when overhauling the carburetor. Using the code number stamped on the air horn, adjacent to the fuel inlet, refer to the parts catalog and order the correct repair k i t for the carburetor being worked on.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR (Fig.

7)

(1) Install four elevating legs, Tool T109-287S, in the mounting flange holes in the throttle body.

These legs are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.

(2) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod In the center slot of the pump arm. Remove rod

CENTER SLOT IN

ACCELERATOR

PUMP ARM

ACCELERATOR

PUMP ROD

FAST IDLE

ROD

HAIR PIN

CLIP

AIR HORN

SCREWS

•SHORT)

ACCELERATOR -g^p

PUMP PLUNGER J ? 3 J

THROTTLE LEVER

AIR HORN SCREWS

[LONG)

FAST IDLE CAM ^ HAIR PIN CLIP

Fig.

3 —Removing the Pump Rod

60x332 A

<^p

^FAST IDLE ROD

HAIR PIN CUP from slot and disengage from the throttle lever, as shown in Figure 3.

AIR HORN TO MAIN

BODY GASKET

FAST IDLE ROD

HAIR PIN CLIP

ACCELERATOR

PUMP

ROD

CHOKE LEVER

MAIN TO THROTTLE

BODY GASKE"

THROTTLE BODY

60x330A

Fig. 2—Carburetor Assembly (Disassembled View)

FAST IDLE CAM

M

~ HAIR PIN CLIP 60x333A

Fig. 4—Removing the Fast Idle Rod

MyMopar.com

14-18 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

60 x

Fig. 5 —Removing the Air Horn Fig. 7—Removing the Vacuum Power Piston

(3) "Remove the hairpin clip that holds the fast idle rod in the fast idle cam. Disengage rod from cam, then rotate rod to disengage from choke lever, as shown in Figure 4.

(4) Remove the three short air horn attaching screws, then remove the two long air horn attaching screws next to the choke piston. Install two short screws through the main body into the throttle body to hold the bodies together (Fig. 5).

(5) Remove the remaining air horn attaching screws, then lift air horn straight up and away from main body, as shown in Figure 5.

(7) Remove the vacuum power piston from the air horn, using an open end wrench and wood block, as shown in Figure 7. (Exert sufficient pressure on end of wrench to force piston out of Its well in air horn. This assembly Is staked in the air horn and care should be used at removal.) Discard air horn gasket.

(8) Test the freedom of the choke mechanism

In the air horn. The shaft and piston must float free to operate correctly. I f the choke piston sticks in the cylinder, or appears to be gummed from deposits

In the air horn, pierce the welsh plug and remove the plug and piston, Clean thoroughly and reinstall the piston. Install a new plug,

(6) Disengage the accelerator pump-plunger from the pump arm hook by tilting down and out from under hook, as shown in Figure 6. Remove the compression spring.

Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

MATH BODY REMOVAL (Fig. 2)

(1) Remove the venturi cluster attaching screws, the venturi cluster and gasket, as shown in Figure

8.

Fig. 6 —Removing the Accelerator Pump Plunger Fig. 8 —Removing the Venturi Cluster

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP; CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-19

Fig. 9—Removing the Float and Fulcrum Pin

Fig. 11—Removing the Main Metering let

(2) Remove the float fulcrum pin spring, the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket.

(3) Slide the float baffle up and out of its grooves, and remove the float and fulcrum pin, as shown in

Figure 9.

(4) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out the discharge check ball from the discharge passage (Fig. 8), and the accelerator pump inlet check ball from the pump well.

(5) Using Tool 73598, remove the power by-pass jet and gaskets, as shown in Figure 10.

(6) Using Tool T109-173, remove the two main metering jets, as shown In Figure 11.

(7) Remove the two air horn screws used to hold the main and throttle bodies together. Separate the throttle and main bodies. adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body.

(2) The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units; namely, the air horn, main body and throttle body and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

NOTE: It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts.

CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS

THROTTLE BODY REMOVAL f i g . 2)

(1) Unscrew and remove the two idle mixture

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. There are other commercial solvents, however, such as Metalclene, which may be used with satisfactory results.

Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. I f wear is extreme, i t is recommended that the throttle body be replaced rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.

Fig. 10 —Removing the Power By-Pass let Fig.

12—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

MyMopar.com

14-20 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

IMPORTANT

THROTTLE VALVES

I f the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, i t should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. I t is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean gasoline or kerosene to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the fuel mixture too rich for proper performance.

IDLE MIXTURE

SCREWS

IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

THROTTLE VALVE

SCREWS-

INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY

60x342A

(1) During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer ports and the spark advance control ports to the valves are carefully established for one particular assembly (Fig. 12).

(2) I f a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, i t would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. I f i t has been determined, however, that a new shaft or valves are to be Installed, adhere closely to the following instructions:

(3) Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced in the same bore from where removed ( i f replacing throttle shaft only). Fig. 13.)

(4) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the shaft. Slide the valves out of shaft and bore.

Fig. 13—Throttle Body (Disassembled View) seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by spueezing with pliers.

(9) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth.) I f the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

DO NOT USE A SCEEWDEIVER. The idle mixture screw adjustment should be made with the ringers. Turn the screws lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn for an approximate setting.

MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY (Fig. 14)

CAUTION

These screws are staked on the opposite side and care -should be used at removal so as not to break the screws i n the shaft. Remove the staking with a file.

(5) Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the throttle body.

(6) Install the new throttle shaft ahd lever in the throttle body. The idle tab on the lever should rest against the stop.

NOTE: The idle speed adjusting screw must be backed off when seating the valves in the following operation.

(7)

Slide the valves down into position with the notches in the valves at the ports. Install new screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves in place with the fingers pressing on the high side of valves.

(8) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to

(1) Place a new gasket on the throttle body, then install main body. Install two short screws to secure.

POWER BY-PASS JET

GASKET

FULCRUM PIN

SPRING

FUEL INLET NEEDLE

VALVE SEAT AND GASKEJ

FLOAT BAFFLE^

FULCRUM PIN-

DRIVE PLUGS ATTACHING SCREWS

Gfc

VENTURI CLUSTER

GASKET

DISCHARGE

CHECK BALL

.INLET CHECK BALL

(PUMP)

MAIN BODY

FLOAT

MAIN METERING JETS

PASSAGE PLUGS 60x343

Fig. 14 — Main Body (Disassembled)

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-21

Fig. 15

—

Installing the Accelerator Pump

Met Check BaH

THE DISCHARGE CHECK BALL 60X708

Fig. 17

—

Testing the Accelerator Pump

- (2)- Install the main metering jets in the main body. Tighten securely, using Tool T109-173 (Fig.

11).

(S) Install the power by-pass jet and new gasket.

Tighten securely, using Tool 73598 (Fig. 10).

(4) Install the accelerator pump Inlet check ball

(%e inch) in the pump well, as shown In Figure 15.

(5) Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball Ys Inch) In the discharge passage, as shown in Figure 16.

ACCELERATOR PUMP TEST

(1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bow] approximately U> i n c h deep. Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and slide down in its well. Raise the plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel the air from the pump passage.

(2) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly down on its seat. Raise the pump plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage, as shown in Figure 17.

(3) I f any fuel does emit from either the intake or discharge passages, i t indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check ball. The passages should be recleaned and then thoroughly blown out with compressed air. Examine the check ball for signs of damage that would not allow the ball to seat properly.

(4) Reinstall the check ball and test again. I f still leaking, place a piece of drill rod down on the check ball and rap sharply with a hammer. Remove the old check ball and install a new one. Then retest.

(This operation forms a new ball seat in the carburetor casting.)

(5) Install the venturi cluster gasket and slide the venturi cluster down into position (Fig. 8). Install attaching screws and tighten securely.

Again depress the accelerator plunger. A clear straight stream should emit from each jet orifice.

If streams are not identical (if either one is restricted or diverted), remove venturi cluster and reclean.

After test, pour gasoline from the bowl and remove the pump plunger.

(6) Check the float for leaks or damage. I f satisfactory for further service, install in position in the bowl (Fig. 9).

60 x 345A

Fig. 16 — Installing

the Discharge Check B a l

(7) Assemble the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket, then insert in the main body. Tighten securely. ( I f the needle valve is ridged or grooved, or

MyMopar.com

14-22 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK]

61x135

Fig. 18

— lubber Tipped Needle Sea! and Gasket badly worn, a new synthetic rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle valve assembly should be Installed.)

Fig. 20—Air

Horn

(Disassembled) a. Setting the Float Height

The carburetor is equipped with a new synthetic rubber-tipped fuel Inlet needle (Fig. 18).

(1) Invert the main body so that the weight of the floats only Is forcing the needle against the seat.

Be sure hinge pin does not drop out of the loat hinge.

(2) Using Tool 73725 or a "T" scale, measure the float level, as shown in Figure

19.

There should be

1/8

inch from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of the float at the center.

If an adjustment Is necessary, remove the needle valve and seat, the fulcrum pin retainer spring, the floats and fulcrum pin. Bend the Hp of the float lever either in or out until correct setting has been obtained.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to change the setting without re-

Fig. 19

— Measuring the Float Setting moving the float, as the synthetic rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting, which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

NOTE; I t is important that the float lip is perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than

10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

Install float, needle and seat and tighten seat securely. Slide the float baffle down Into position and

Install the fulcrum pin spring (Fig. 5). Remeasure as described in Step 2 above. b. Air

Horn

Assembly (Fig.

20)

(1)

Slide the choke shaft and lever Into the air horn with the choke lever pointing down and away from the air horn. Slide the choke valve down Into the slot in the shaft.

(2) Hold the choke valve closed, then position the choke piston bracket and Install new screws. DO

NOT TIGHTEN. While holding the valve In the closed position, tap gently with a screwdriver, to center and locate the valve.

(3) Tighten attaching screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers. Reinstall the fast Idle lever and secure with lockwasher and nut.

(4) Soak the accelerator pump plunger In a jar of clean gasoline. Test the leather. I f the leather Is hard, cracked, or worn, Install a new pump plunger.

(Be sure and flex the leather several times before installing plunger

I n

air horn.)

(5) Slide the compression spring over plunger shaft, then slide plunger over hook and into position

(Fig.

6).

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR TANK) 14-23

(6) Install a new air horn gasket, then install the vacuum power piston in air horn. Lock the piston in position by prick punching on the retaining rim.

Compress the piston plunger to be sure no binding exists. I f the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder smooth operation, install a new piston assembly. f l •FAST

I D L E R O D rn/

( B e n d as R e q u i r e d ) c. Vacuum Kick Adjustment

(1) Eemove the welsh plug from the choke piston cylinder, and insert a hook gauge (.036 to .040" diameter) into the slot in the cylinder wall. Rotate the hook end so that i t engages the end groove in the piston. Apply light closing pressure against the choke valve so that the hook gauge is trapped between the groove in the piston and the end of the slot, as shown in Figure 21. I t should be possible to insert a #18 (.070") drill between the air horn and the choke valve. I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the era of the bracket as shown, until the correct opening has been obtained.

(2) Install the air horn assembly on the main body, guiding the pump plunger into its well (Fig.

5.) (Be sure the leather does not curl or fold back.)

Install retaining screws and tighten securely.

NOTE; The choke valve must be held partially closed

' while installing the air horn.

(3) Remove the two short screws holding the main body and throttle body together (Fig. 5), and install i n air horn. Reinstall the two long screws and tighten securely.

(4) Install the fast idle rod and secure with the hairpin clip (Fig. 4),

(5) Install the pump rod and secure with hairpin clip. (Be sure rod is in the center slot of arm.) (Fig.

3.) Work the accelerator pump plunger several times to be sure i t operates smoothly.

18 1.170"! DRILL

IDLE SPEED SCREW (CURB

Jill)

6QI 349A

Fig.

22

—Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position Setting

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

I t is very important that the following adjustments be made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed:

(a) Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position Setting.

(b) Unloader Adjustment (Wide Open Kick).

(c) Accelerator Pump Travel.

(d) Bowl Vent Valve Setting.

(e) Vacuum Kick Adjustment. a. Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position

Adjustment (Fig.

22)

(1) Turn the idle speed adjusting screw out far enough to clear the throttle lever tang when the throttle valves are closed.

(2) Hold the throttle valves in the closed position, and turn the fast idle adjusting screw out until the fast idle cam can be positioned as shown (Fig.

22).

(3)

From the point of initial contact with the step of the cam, as shown, turn the fast idle screw in

31/2

turns.

(4) With the fast idle screw held in the position illustrated, move the choke valve (with light pressure) toward the closed position and insert a 14 inch drill between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.

(5) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle rod at the upper bend, using Tool T109-213, unt i l correct oening has been obtained.

VACUUM PISTON LEVER

(Bend as Required)

HOOK

CAUSE

SO

i 348A

Fig.

21

—Vacuum Kick Setting b. Unloader Adjustment (Wide Open Kick) (Fig.

23)

(1) Lightly hold the choke valve closed, then open

MyMopar.com

14-24 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

(3) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the pump rod at the point shown, using Tool T109-213, until correct travel has been obtained.

\Q^y 60

x

359

Fig. 23—Unloader Adjustment (Wide Open Kick) d. Bowl Vent Valve Setting (Fig.

25)

This setting is made after the pump travel setting.

(1) With the idle speed screw set at closed throttle, hold the throttle in the closed position, and choke valve wide open.

(2) Test the opening of the bowl vent valve at the center of hole with the rubber valve hanging free.

(3) The opening should be %

4

inch.

(4) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the bowl vent lever, using Tool T109-214, until correct opening has been obtained. the throttle valves to the wide open position. The choke valve should be open sufficiently to allow a

2

%

4

Inch drill to be inserted between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn as shown.

(2) To adjust, bend the tang on the throttle lever, using Tool T109-214, until correct opening has been obtained.

(3) Hold the choke valve open and then open and close the throttle valves. Failure to obtain full throttle operation indicates improper assembly or wrong adjustment of the choke mechanism.

(4) With the throttle valves held in the open position, open the choke valve slowly to the wide open position. There should be no bind throughout the entire travel of the choke mechanism. e. Idle Speed Adjustment

For the best results, i t is recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment.

(1) Turn the idle speed screw in or out to obtain

500 rpm. (On vehicles with air conditioning, set the idle speed at 500 rpm, with air conditioning ON). Be sure the choke valves is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam (engine off fast idle).

(2) Turn each idle mixture screw to obtain a smooth idle.

BOWL VENT VALVE

•.062" . 0 9 4 " c. Accelerator Pump Travel (Fig. 24)

BOWL VENT LEVER

(Bend as Required)

CHOKE VALVE

/ (Open)

(1) With the throttle valves fully closed, measure the pump travel from the fully closed to the fully open throttle.

(2) This travel should be %

6

inch as shown.

PUMP ROD

(Bend as Required)

60 x 351 A

Fig. 24 — Accelerator Pump Travel

60 x352A

Fig.

25— Bowl Vent Valve Setting

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-25

(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the idle speed screw.

1 Fast Idle Speed Adjustment

To set the fast Idle speed, connect a tachometer, then proceed as follows:

(1) With the engine not running, open the throttle halfway, close the choke valve, then allow the throttle to close.

The fast idle adjusting screw should be contacting the top step of the fast idle cam. I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle rod at the upper angle In order to secure proper position of the fast idle cam, using Tool T109-213.

(2) With the engine running and warmed up, and with the fast idle adjusting screw contacting the top step of the fast idle cam, turn the fast idle adjusting screw in or out to secure 1400 rpm.

CHOKE ROD

COVER

CALIBRATION

MARKS

THERMOSTATIC C O l L ^ ^ a ^ Z / ^ — " I N D E X MARK

SPRING AND HOUSING

N

^ J >

Z

57x121 B

Fig. 26—-Automatic

DUST SEAL WASHER

Well Type

LOCK NUT

Choke g. Measuring the Float Setting or Fuel Level

(On the Vehicle)

Remove the three short air horn to main body attaching screws. Then remove one long air horn to throttle body scr v next to fuel bowl and assembly short screw through main body flange and thread into the throttle body. Remove long screw from side away from fuel bowl and on opposite side and assemble short screw through main body flange. Securely tighten. Remove the air horn as follows:

(1) Remove the spring clip and disconnect the choke operating rod.

(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disconnect the fast idle rod.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod in the center slot of the pump arm. Disconnect the pump rod.

(4) Remove the remaining two long screws and lift off the air horn.

Check the float setting as follows:

(1) Seat the float fulcrum pin by pressing finger against the fulcrum pin spring.

There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise the float so that the lip bears firmly against the needle. Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly depressing the float. I f the fuel pressure in the line is insufficient to force additional fuel into the bowl, add the necessary fuel from a clean container. spill fuel onto these surfaces. Therefore, take the necessary precautions to avoid spillage.

(2) With only the pressure from the buoyant float holding the lip against the inlet needle, check the float setting, using Tool 73725 or "T" scale.

There should be

l

/% inch from the surface of the bowl (gasket removed) to the top of the float at the center.

If an adjustment is necessary, hold the float on the bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward or away from the needle, using Tool 73605.

Recheck the Y$ inch setting again, then repeat the lip bending operation as required.

CAUTION

When bending the float lip, do not allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl. After being compressed, the rubber tip is very slow to recover its original shape.

I V

S L O T

CAUTION

Since the manifolds may be hot, i t is dangerous to

INDEX MARK^

60 x 353

Fig. 27

—

Adjusting the Well Type Choke

MyMopar.com

14-26 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-27

I t is very important that tfie float tip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted- not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

(3) Reassemble the air horn.

AUTOMATIC CHOIE (WeE Type)

(1) To function properly, i t is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than an occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no serving. I t is very important, however, that the choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft.

(2) Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. I f the unit binds, a new unit should be installed.

NOTE: The well type choke unit is serviced only as a complete unit. Do not attempt to repair.

(3) Figure 26 shows the component parts of the control unit along with the number stamped on the crown of the cover.

(4) When installing the well type choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the well. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation.

(5) Do not lubricate any of the choke parts or the control unit, since this causes dirt to accumulate which would result in a binding condition of the choke mechanism.

(6) Do not attempt to change the calibration setting. This is pre-determined and should i t be changed, improper choke action would result.

(7) The choke control unit is accurately adjusted when originally assembled. Under normal service operation, i t is recommended not to change the setting, or to disassemble the components for servicing. If, however, the setting has been disturbed, refer to Figure 27 then reset as follows:

(8) Loosen lockout " A " and turn part with screwdriver until index mark on disk " B " coincides with the first mark to the right of center mark on the bracket. Hold in this position with screwdriver while tightening nut.

NOTE: After adjustment is made and the choke unit installed on the engine, lift the cover disc and check to see that the rod has clearance when the choke is opened and closed. The rod should have clearance at hole in cover plate.

AFB SEMES CAEBUHETOl

The AFB (aluminum four barrel) carburetor contains many features, some of which are the location for the step-up rods and pistons. The step-up rods, pistons and springs are accessible for service without removing the air horn, or the carburetor from the engine.

The venturi assemblies (primary and secondary) are replaceable and contain many of the calibration points for both the high and low speed system. One fuel bowl feeds both the primary and secondary nozzles on the right side while the other fuel bowl takes care of the primary and secondary nozzles on the left side. This provides improved performance in cornering, quick stops and acceleration.

All the major castings of the carburetor are aluminum, with the throttle body cast integral with the main body. This allows an overall height reduction in the carburetor. The section containing the accelerator pump is termed the primary side of the carburetor. The rear section is the secondary.

The five conventional systems are two float systems, two low speed systems (primary side only), two high speed systems, one accelerator pump system and one automatic choke control system.

SEHflCE PHOCEDU1ES

SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

When overhauling the AFB carburetor, several

MyMopar.com

14-28

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

items of importance should be observed to assure a good job.

The carburetor should be carefully disassembled and all parts should be cleaned in a suitable solvent and inspected for wear or damage.

Air pressure only should be used to clean the various orifices and channels. Replace questionable parts with new ones.

DISASSEMBLING THE AFB CARBURETOR (Fig. 1)

(1) Place the carburetor assembly on repair stand

Tool C-3400 or T-109-287S elevating legs.

(2) Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the fast idle connector rod to the choke lever. Disengage rod from lever, then swing rod at an arc until i t can be disengaged from the fast idle cam.

(3) Remove the retainer and spring that holds the throttle connector rod in the center hole of the accelerator pump arm. Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the lower end of rod in the primary throttle shaft lever. Disengage rod from arm and lever, then remove from carburetor.

(4) Remove the screws attaching the step-up piston and rod cover plates.

NOTE : Hold cover down with a finger to prevent the piston and rods from flying out.

(5) Lift off the plates and slide the step-up pistons and rods out of the air horn, as shown in Figure 2. Remove the step-up piston springs.

(6) Remove the ten screws that attach the air horn to the main body (1 screw in hole in air horn).

Life air horn straight up and away from the main body.

NOTE : When removing air horn, use care so as not to bend or damage the floats.

(7) Remove the accelerator pump plunger lower spring from the pump cylinder. a. Disassembling the Air Horn

Place the air horn in an inverted position on the bench (to protect the floats).

(1) Using a suitable tool, remove the float fulcrum pins (left and right) and lift the floats up and out of bosses on air horn.

NOTE: I t is suggested that the float on the pump side be marked so that the floats can be re-installed in their respective positions.

(2) Remove the two needle valves from their respective seats, after marking the one on the pump side for identification. Using a wide blade screwdriver, remove the needle valve seats. Be sure each

STEP-UP PISTON AND ROD

STEP-UP PISTON SPRING

58x277

COVEr PLATES . - " - - ^ j ^ ^ ^ PISTON

^ STEP-UP ROD

Fig. 2—Removing the Step-Up Pistons and Rods

MyMopar.com

GASKET

PUMP JET HOUSING

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-29

DISCHARGE CHECK

NEEDLE (IN HOLE) PRIMARY VENTURI (PUMP SIDE)

PRIMARY VENTURI

CHOKE SIDE

MODEL NUMBER

AND DATE

STAMPED

ON BOSS

Fig.

3 —Removing the Accelerator Pump Jet Housing

Fig. 5—Removing the Primary Venturi

PRIMARY VENTURI

(CHOKE SIDE)

SECONDARY

VENTURI

(CHOKE SIDE) retains the welch plug. needle valve is returned to its original seat at reassembly.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the accelerator pump connector link in the pump arm and plunger shaft. Disengage link from pump arm and shaft. Slide the accelerator pump plunger and spring out of the air horn. Remove the air horn to main body gasket and discard.

(4) Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene, to prevent the leather from drying out.

(5) Remove the fuel inlet fitting and filter screen from the air horn.

(6) Using a prick punch, pierce the welch plug and remove i t from the end of choke piston cylinder.

Remove cotter pin that attaches the piston link to the choke valve lever. Slide choke piston and link out of cylinder. Remove the peened-over metal that b. Main Body Disassembly

(1) Remove the screws that attach the accelerator pump jet housing to the main body. Lift out the jet housing and gasket, as shown in Figure 3. Discard the gasket. Invert the main body and drop out the discharge check needle from the discharge passage.

(2) Using Tool T109-57 ( % e

" Bit) remove the main metering jets (primary side), as shown in Figure 4.

NOTE: The primary and secondary main metering jets are not interchangeable. I t is very important that these jets be installed in their respective locations in the main body at reassembly.

(3) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 4.

(4) Remove the screws that attach the primary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body.

Lift the venturi straight up and away from the main body, as shown in Figure 5. Discard the gaskets.

PRIMARY

VENTURI

(PUMP SIDE) ,

PUMP CYLINDER

SECONDARY

VENTURI

(PUMP SIDE)

ACCELERATOR

PUMP INLET

CHECK VALVE

61x278A

SECONDARY JET (2)

PRIMARY JET (2)

Fig. 4—Removing the Main Metering Jets

NOTE: The venturi assemblies are not interchangeable, side for side and must be re-installed in their original location at reassembly.

(5) Remove the screws that attach the secondary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body.

Lift the secondary venturi assemblies straight up and away from the body, as shown in Figure 6.

(6) Using Tool T-109-59, screw driver bit, remove the accelerator pump intake check ball assembly. (The check ball assembly is located at the front of the bowl at the base of the accelerator pump

MyMopar.com

14-30 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

SECONDARY

VENTURI PUMP SIDE

GASKET p u M P J E T

HOUSING

PRIMARY

THROTTLE

VALVES SECONDARY VENTURI

(CHOKE SIDE)

CHOKE SIDE OF

CARBURETOR

IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS

PUMP SIDE OF CARBURETOR

NOZZLE BLEEDER TUBE SECONDARY VENTURI

\ PRIMARY VENTURI

MAIN BLEED TUBE i l

IDLE TRANSFER PORTS

58x287A

Fig. 7—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

NOZZLE

IDLE TUBE ^ BLEEDER TUBE

NOTE: The screws that attach the throttle valves are staked on the opposite side and care should be used in removal so as not to break the screws in the throttle shaft. Remove the staked portion of the screws with a file. DO NOT REMOVE TUBES FROM VENTURI ^

Fig. 8—Removing the Secondary Venturi m cylinder). Be sure that the check ball is thoroughly cleaned before installation,

(7) Remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body portion of the main casting.

The carburetor now has been disassembled into two units, the air horn and main and throttle body casting. The component parts of each have been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

I t is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves, unless wear or damage necessitates the installation of new parts. During the manufacture of the carburetor, the location of the idle transfer ports and the idle discharge ports to the valve is carefully established for one particular assembly, as shown in Figure 7. The valves are milled to give the proper port relation.

I f new throttle shafts should be installed in an old, worn body, i t would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. A very slight change in the port relationship to the valves would adversely affect normal carburetor operation, between the speeds of

15 and 30 miles per hour.

I t is recommended that i f the throttle shafts are excessively worn, that a new carburetor be installed.

I f the throttle valves, however, have become nicked, burred or damaged, new valves may be installed, providing the following instructions are carefully followed.

Remove the screws that attach the primary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve

(or valves) out of the bores.

Remove the screws that attach the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve

(or valves) out of the bores.

The primary valves and secondary valves are not interchangeable and should be kept separate in order that each may be returned to its respective bore.

(See Fig. 8).

CLEANING THE CARBURETOR PARTS

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol. There are other commercial solvents, however, which may be used with satisfactory results.

..SECONDARY VALVE

K j V * ^ (BRASS)

PRIMARY VALVE

(ALUMINUM)

53x946A

Fig. 8—Throttle Valve Identification

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-31 a. Main and Throtfle

IMPORTANT

I f the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of a water rinse, i t should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. I t is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill, or other mechanical means* because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.

DfSPECTION AND REASSUffiLY

Body Casting

(1) Slide the primary throttle valve (or valves) into their respective bores, install new screws, but do not tighten. Be sure the idle speed adjusting screw is backed out. Hold the valves in place with fingers (fingers pressing on the high side of the valves).

(2) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely. Stake screws by squeezing with pliers.

(3) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body portion of the casting. The tapered portion must be smooth and straight. I f the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting"" screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

(6) Install the primary and secondary main metering jets, using Tool T109-58. (See Fig. 4.) Tighten jets securely.

(7) Install the accelerator pump intake check ball assembly in position in the carburetor bowl.

Tighten securely, using Tool T109-59. b. Accelerator Pump Test

(1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl

(approximately \k inch deep). Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Flex the leather several times, then slide onto the pump cylinder.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle in the discharge passage. Raise the pump plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passages. Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check needle firmly on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage.

(3) I f fuel does emit from the intake passage, disassemble the intake check ball and reclean the passage. Fuel leakage at the discharge check needle indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check needle. Clean again and then install a new check needle. Retest for leakage.

(4) I f either the intake check ball or discharge check needle leaks after above test and service fix, attempt to reseat as follows:

NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver.

The adjustment should be made with the fingers.

Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws lightly against their seats and back off one full turn for an approximate adjustment. c. Intake Check Ball

Remove the accelerator pump check ball assembly and install a new check ball assembly, d. Discharge Check Needle

(4) Place the new secondary venturi gaskets in position (bleed hole in top, toward the center of the carburetor), install the secondary venturi (pump and choke side) by lowering straight down on the gaskets. Install the attaching screws and tighten securely.

NOTE: Be sure all the metering holes and vent tubes are clean, in both the primary and secondary venturi.

(5) Place new primary venturi gaskets in position, then install the primary venturi (pump and choke side) by lowering straight down on the gaskets. (See Fig. 5). Install attaching screws and tighten securely.

(1) With the discharge check needle installed, insert a piece of drill rod down on the needle. Lightly tap the drill rod with a hammer to form a new seat.

Remove and discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described previously. I f the service fix does not correct the condition, a new carburetor must be installed.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle, jet housing and gasket. Install housing and attaching screws. Tighten screws securely.

(3) Press down on the accelerator pump plunger shaft and as the plunger is being depressed, a clear straight stream should emit from each jet. I f the streams are identical (if either one is diverted or restricted) a new accelerator pump jet housing

MyMopar.com

14-32 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove pump plunger. r

THESE SURFACES MUST BE PARALLEL

t

AIR HORN FUEL BAFFLE ^ e.

Air Horn Assembly

(1) Slide the fuel inlet screen into the fuel line fitting, then install fitting in air horn. Tighten securely.

(2) Check to see i f the leather on the accelerator pump plunger is hard, cracked or worn. I f any sign of wear or deterioration is evident, install a new plunger assembly.

(3) Slide the accelerator plunger into air horn, and install the accelerator pump link. Install the retaining hairpin clip to secure.

(4) Place a new air horn to main body gasket in position on the air horn and install the float needle valve seats. (Be sure each needle seat and needle is reinstalled in its original position.)

The carburetors for the 1962 model cars are equipped with synthetic rubber-tipped fuel inlet needles, as shown in Figure 9. The rubber tip is flexible enough to make a good seal on the needle seat, and to give increased resistance to flooding.

NOTE: The use of the rubber-tipped needles require that care be used when making float adjustments.

Avoid applying any pressure on the floats which might compress the tip of the fuel inlet needles. The rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

(5) Slide the right and left floats into position in the air horn and install the float fulcrum pins.

NOTE: Be sure the marked float is installed on the pump side of the air horn.

(6) After the floats have been installed, check the float alignment, level and drop settings as follows: f. Float Alignment Setting

(1) Sight down the side of each float shell to de-

-MINIMUM CLEARANCE WITHOUT BINDING-

57 x 801

Fig. 10—Inspecting the Float Alignment termine i f the side of the float is parallel to the outer edge of the air horn casting, as shown in Figure 10.

(2) I f the sides of the float are not in alignment with the edge of casting, bend the float lever by applying pressure to the end of the float shell with the fingers while supporting the float lever with the thumb.

NOTE: To avoid damage to the float, apply only enough pressure to bend the float lever.

(3) The arms of the float lever should be parallel to the inner surfaces of the lugs or the casting. g. Float Level Setting

(1) With the air horn inverted, the air horn gasket in place and the float needle seated, slide the float gauge Tool T109-106 C/

3 2

") between the top of the float (at outer end) and the air horn gasket, as shown in Figure 11. On C-300H use the float gauge TI09-126 ( %

2

" ) on the front carburetor and

T109-106 on the rear carburetor. The float should just touch the gauge.

FLOAT GAUGE GASKET IN PLACE.

NEEDLE

GASKET

SEAT

61x172

Fig. 9—Fuel Inlet Needle, Seat and Gasket Fig. 11—Measuring the Float Height

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-33

STEP-UP

PISTON SPRING

2 STAGE

STEP-UP PISTON

COVER

#

N

STEP-UP R O D

'-+3 STEPS*

SCREW

GASKET IN PLACE

57

x 303 A

STOP TABS

Fig. 12—Testing the Float Drop

JET-OLD TYPE-

• JET-NEW TYPE

61x171

Fig. 13—Step-Up Piston, Rods and Jet (Except C-300H)

(2) Measure the other float in the same manner.

I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the float arm using Tool T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained. After bending arm, recheck the float alignment. h.

Float Drop Setting

(1) Holding the air horn in an upright position, measure the distance from the top of the floats

(outer end) to the air horn gasket, as shown in Figure 12. This measurement should be % inch. I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the stop tabs on the float levers until the correct drop setting has been obtained. Bend the tab towards the needle seat to lessen the drop, or away from the seat to increase the drop.

(2) After the floats have been adjusted, continue to assemble the carburetor as follows:

(3) Place the accelerator pump plunger lower spring in the pump cylinder, then lower the air horn carefully down on the main body. pull mixtures is accomplished in two steps. This has made i t possible to secure best low speed fuel economy without sacrificing performance in the intermediate speed range. To do this, there is a new step-up piston and spring assembly, new metering rods with three diameters, and new style primary metering jets, as shown in Figure 13.

(5) Slide the step-up piston springs into the piston cylinders, followed by the step-up pistons and step-up rods. Install the cover plates and attaching screws while holding the step-up pistons down in position. Tighten screws securely.

(6) Slide the choke piston into its cylinder in the air horn, guiding the link into the slot in the choke valve lever. Align hole, then install attaching cotter pin. Place a new welsh plug over cylinder opening and secure by rapping with a hammer. (Be sure the sealing surface is clean.) Check the fit of the choke valve in air horn. The valve should be evenly spaced on all sides. Loosen screws and reposition i f necessary.

(7) Engage the throttle connector rod with the

C A U T I O N

Be sure the fuel baffles on the air horn, slide down in front (bowl side) of the float chamber bafflles, or the air horn will not index correctly with the main body and can cause the floats to hang up. Be sure the leather on the plunger does not curl or wrinkle.

Accelerator pump operation will be affected i f this precaution is not observed.

C H O K E V A L V E O P E N

T O ADJUST, B E N D

AT THIS A N G L E

(4) Install the (10) air horn attaching screws and tighten securely. (The two long screws should be installed in the holes that are located at the air cleaner mounting surface. The 1 inch screw at the front and the

IV2

inch at the rear.)

The change from the low speed, best fuel economy, road load mixtures to the richer wide open throttle

INDEX MARK

O N C A M

S H A N K O F FAST

IDLE A D J U S T I N G

S C R E W

- THROTTLE? V A L V E S C L O S E D

5 8 x 2 9

Fig. 14 — Fast Idle Cam Indexing o

MyMopar.com

14-34 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) primary throttle shaft lever and install hairpin clip.

Install the other end of the connector rod in the pump arm and secure with clevis clip,

(8) Engage the lower end of the fast idle connector rod with the fast idle cam, then swing in an arc to lock in cam. Slide other end of rod into the choke shaft lever and secure with hairpin clip.

5* CARBURETOR ADIUSTMENTS

The following adjustments should be made with the carburetor on the bench for ease of working, and should be made in the following order; a. Fast Idle Adjustment

(1) Open the throttle valves to wide open position. Close the choke valve tightly and then close the throttle valves. This will position the fast idle cam to fast idle. The index mark on the cam should split the center of the fast idle adjusting screw, as shown in Figure 14,

(2) • I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle connector rod at the angle, using Tool T109-213, until the index mark on the cam indexes the fast idle adjusting screw.

; ; THROTTLE VALVES SEATED IN BORES

Fig. 16—Measuring the Accelerator Pump Travel loader lip on the throttle shaft lever, using Tool

T109-41, until correct opening has been obtained. c. Accelerator Pump Adjustment (Also C-300H)

(1) Move the choke valve to wide open position, to release the fast idle cam. Back off the idle speed adjusting screw, (curb idle) until the throttle valves are seated in the bores. b.

Choke Unloader

Adjustment—(Also C-300H

Rear

Carburetor)

(1) With the throttle valves in the wide open position, i t should be possible to insert Tool T109-

31 (% inch) gauge between the upper edge of the choke valve and the inner wall of the air horn, as shown in Figure 15.

(2) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the un-

(2) Measure the distance from the top of the air horn to the top of the plunger shaft, using a " T " scale as shown in Figure 16. This distance should be %

6

inch.

(3) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the throttle conector rod at the lower angle, using Tool

T-109-213, until correct travel has been obtained.

Fig. 15

—

Measuring Choke Unloader (wide open kick)

Adjustment Fig. 17—Measuring the Secondary Throttle Opening

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-35 d. Secondary Throttle Lever Adjustment (Also C-300H)

(1) To measure the secondary throttle lever adjustment, block the choke valve in the wide open position and invert the carburetor.

(2) Slowly open the primary throttle valves until it is possible to measure f %

4

inch between the lower edge of the primary valve and the bore (opposite idle port) as shown in Figure 17. A t this measurement, the secondary valves should just start to open.

(S) The stop lugs on both the primary and secondary throttle levers should contact the bosses on the flange at the same time.

(4) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the secondary throttle operating rod at the angle,' using

Tool T109-213, until correct adjustment has been obtained.

(5) At wide open throttle, the primary and secondary throttle valves should reach the full vertical position.

(6) With the primary and secondary throttle valves in the tightly closed position, it should be possible to insert fool T109-29 (.020 inch) wire gauge, between the positive closing shoes on the secondary throttle levers, as shown in Figure 18.

(7) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the shoe on the secondary throttle lever, using Tool T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained. e. Secondary Throttle Lock-out Adjustment (Also

C-300H rear carburetor)

Fig. 18—Measuring the Clearance Between

Closing Shoes insure satisfactory performance. The manifold heat control valve should be checked for proper operation. This is very important for satisfactory engine warm-up.

With the above items checked and working properly, and the engine at normal operating temperature, proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the choke housing retainer ring, heat tube and cap and the choke thermostatic coil spring housing.

(2) Remove the throttle return spring. This will allow the throttle to be set one quarter open.

(3) Move the choke valve to wide open position.

(4) Insert an .026 inch wire gauge into the choke piston slot so that the hook on the end goes into the slot in the cylinder, as shown in Figure 19. The gauge referred to, can be made by bending a piece

(1) Open the throttle valves slightly, then manually open and close the choke valve. The tang on the secondary throttle lever should freely engage in the notch of the lock-out dog.

(2) I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the secondary throttle lever, until engagement has been made. Use Tool T109-22 for this operation.

(3) After adjustments have heen made, reinstall carburetor on engine, using a new g ket.

(4) I t is suggested that the carburetor bowl be filled with clean gasoline. This will help prevent dirt that is trapped in the fuel system from being dislodged by the free flow of fuel, as the carubretor is primed.

.026" GAUGE i.

Choke Piston Index (C-300H rear carburetor only)

The choke piston can be indexed to insure good warm up performance. The ignition system should be in good working order and the timing checked to Fig. 19

—

Indexing the Choke Piston

MyMopar.com

14-36 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

of .026 Inch wire, as shown in the illustration. I f wire is not available, use a .026 inch step-up wire from a BBD carburetor.

(5) Push the choke lever clockwise, trapping the gauge between the piston and the cylinder slot.

(Linkage must be free.)

I f an adjustment Is necessary, bend the connecting link at angle to give Vs Inch opening between the choke valve and the wall of air horn.

(6) Eeassemble the choke, setting the coil 1 notch rich. Install the throttle return spring.

(5) Readjust the speed screw to obtain correct idle speed. Repeat steps 2 and 4 above i f necessary.

After the proper idle speed has been obtained, move the sliding link to the rear, against the stop, and tighten the nut securely. h. Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the Vehicle) g.

Idle Speed Adjustment (Curb Idle)

To make the Idle speed adjustment, the engine must be thoroughly warmed up. A much more reliable idle adjustment can usually be obtained i f the car has been driven a minimum of five miles. For the best results, i t is recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment. (Before making the idle speed adjustment, observe the following precautions:)

On cars equipped with the automatic transmission loosen the nut In the sliding link of the carburetor to bellcrank rod so that the stop in the transmission will not interfere with the free movement of the carburetor throttle lever.

(1) To make the Idle speed adjustment, turn the idle speed screw In or out to obtain 500 rpm. (On cars with air conditioning, set the Idle speed at 500 rpm.) Be sure the choke valve Is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam.

(2) Turn each Idle mixture screw to obtain the highest rpm. While making the adjustment, carefully watch the tachometer and notice that the speed can be decreased by turning the screws in either direction from the setting that gave the highest rpm reading.

(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the Idle speed screw. (Air condtioning ON).

(4) Turn each idle mixture adjusting screw In the clockwise direction (leaner) until there is a slight drop in rpm. Turn each screw out, counterclockwise

(richer) just enough to regain the lost rpm.

This procedure will assure that the Idle has been set to the leanest possible mixture for smooth Idle.

This setting is very important.

NOTE: Since the correct speed was originally set using the speed screw, the speed obtained after finding the leanest smooth idle setting will probably be too fast.

On the C-300H, make this adjustment after the Idle

Speed and Mixture Adjustment.

(1) With the engine not running, open the throttle halfway, close the choke valve, then allow the throttle to close. Release the choke valve.

The fast idle adjusting screw should be centered over the index mark on the fast idle cam (Fig. 20).

I f an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle rod at the angle, using Tool T109-213, to secure proper position of the fast idle cam.

(2) With a tachometer connected and the engine running and warmed up, turn the fast idle adjusting screw in or out to the specified rpm, as shown in the Specifications.

L Carburetor Inter-Connecting Rod (C-300H only)

Before proceeding with adjustments, inspect for proper assembly and adjustments of the inter-connecting rod between the throttle levers. Both the carburetor throttle levers should operate freely and be in the same plane. I f the levers are bent or damaged, correct as necessary.

Install the inter-connecting rod with the slotted end connected at the lower hole in the throttle lever of the front carburetor, and the other end connected at the top hole of the rear carburetor throttle lever.

I f an adjustment is necessary, hold the rear car-

\ o FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

6 1 x 1 7 3

Fig. 20—Fast Idle Cam Indexing

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-37 buretor throttle lever In wide open position (choke off) and adjust the rod at the slotted end so that front carburetor throttle valves will also be in the wide open position. Tighten the locknut and check the operation of the linkage. (Be sure that the inter-connector rod can rotate slightly on the pivots, and do not bind in any throttle position.

|. Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment (C-300H only)

Connect a tachometer and warm-up the engine to normal operating temperature. Be sure the choke is fully off and that the engine is at curb Idle. Proceed as follows:

NOTE: Do not allow the engine to become excessively warm when setting the idle speed and mixture adjustment.

Fig. 22—Closed Crankcase Vent System

(1) Remove the Inter-connecting rod at the rear carburetor throttle lever.

(2) Turn the idle mixture screws from 1 to 2 turns open.

(3) Set the idle bypass air screws 1 turn open and adjust the idle speed to €50 rpm by opening or closing the by-pass screws, keeping the openings equal.

The idle bypass air screw is located at the front of each carburetor body flange, between the two idle mixture screws. Adjust the idle mixture screws on the front carburetor for maximum rpm. Repeat on the rear carburetor and readjust the front carburetor i f necessary.

During the adjustment period, should the idle speed exceed 675 rpm, the idle by-pass screw should be readjusted to 650 rpm.

Before attaching the inter-connecting rod at the rear carburetor, check the transmission to throttle linkage adjustments, so that the idle position is not disturbed. (On the C-300H, the Fast Idle Adjustment must be made after Idle Speed and Mixture

Adjustment.)

AUTOMATIC CHOKE (WeE Type)

To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than the occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no servicing. I t is very important, however, that the choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft. Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. I f unit binds, a new unit should be installed. The Well Type Choke Control Unit is serviced only as a complete unit. Do not attempt to repair. (See Fig. 21).

Do not lubricate any parts of the choke or control unit since this causes dirt accumulation which would result in binding of the choke mechanism.

Do not attempt to change the calibration setting.

(Refer to specifications.) This is pre-determined and should it be changed, improper action would result.

Clean all choke parts using a suitable solvent and then blow dry with compressed air. Examine all choke parts for wear or damage. Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new in order to insure proper choke operation.

When installing the well type choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the wall in the intake manifold. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation.

Fig. 21—Cross-Over Choke Control Unit

CLOSED CRANKCASE VENT SYSTEM

The closed crankcase ventilator valve is located In the crankacse vent tube cap and is connected to the carburetor throttle body via a rubber tube. (See

Fig. 22). The function of the valve is to regulate the flow of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase

MyMopar.com

14-38 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) and return them to the intake manifold. From here haust products. they enter the combustion chamber and then exit For servicing procedures of this system, refer to via the exhaust system as completely burned ex- the "Engine section" Group 9 of this Manual.

FUEL TANK

The fuel tank on all models except the Town and

Country Models is located at the rear of the-body, under the trunk compartment floor, as shown In

Figure 1. I n the Town and Country models, the fuel tank is mounted in the left rear quarter panel beyond the wheel house, as shown in Figure 1.

I f the vehicle is to be stored for any appreciable length of tim,e, the gasoline should be drained from the entire system, in order to prevent gum formation. I f the vehicle has been undercoated, be sure the fuel tank vent tube (under kickup in floor pan) is open. I f this is not done, a collapsed fuel tank will result.

The fuel tank on all models except the Town and

Country has a 23 gallon capacity. The Town and

Country capacity is 22 gallons. The filler tube on the conventional models is accessible through the center of the deck opening lower panel, while the

INSULATOR

Fig. 1—Fuel Tank Mounting

60x96

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 1439

Town and Country fills at the left rear upper quarter panel between the quarter post and the fin. The fuel tank Is fitted with a gauge unit, including the suction pipe, as shown in Figure 2.

The filter on the end of the suction pipe is a replaceable unit and prevents the entry of water or dirt. When installing a tank unit, be sure the.filter is pushed on the end of the tube until seated.

REMOVING THE FUEL TANS (Except Town and

Country and Imperial) a. Removal

(1) Drain the tank, disconnect the fuel line and the wire lead to the gauge unit.

(2) Disconnect the vent tube at the nose connection at the leading edge of the tank.

(3) Remove the nuts that hold the ends of the fuel tank hold down straps to the frame. Lower the front end of the tank far enough to disengage the filler tube from the rear panel and slide out from under the vehicle.

(4) Remove the tank gauge unit, using spanner wrench Tool C-3582, Check the rubber grommet around the filler tube. I f cracked or deteriorated, install a new grommet at reassembly. b. Installation

Before installing the tank gauge unit, check the condition of the filter on the end of suction tube.

I f the filter is corroded, install a new filter.

(1) Position the fuel tank gauge unit in the tank, using a new gasket. Tighten securely, using Tool

C-3582.

(2) Slide the fuel tank under the vehicle. Raise the tank far enough to engage the filler spout with the opening in the rear panel.

(3) Push the tank toward the rear to fully engage the filler spout in the opening.

(4) Hold the fuel tank in this position, and place the hold down straps in position, feeding the attaching studs through holes in the end of the straps. Install the nuts but do not tighten.

(5) Guide the button head of the studs into the slots in the frame and down into position. Tighten

Fig. 2—Fuel Tank Mounting (Town and Country)

MyMopar.com

1440 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

57x275

Fig. 3—Fuel Gauge Tank Unit the hold down strap attaching nuts securely.

(6) Slide the vent tube hose over the end of the vent tube. Connect the lead wire to the tank gauge unit and reconnect the fuel line.

(7) Refill the tank and check for leaks.

FUEL TANK (Imperial) (Fig. 4) a. Removal

(1) Drain the tank, then disconnect the fuel line and the lead wire to the gauge unit.

(2) Disengage the vent tube from the vent tube hose. (Refer to Fig. 4.)

(3) Using Tool C-3584, hooked Into the filler tube cap opening, pull the filler tube out of the fuel tank.

As filler tube is being removed, the vent tube on the filler tube will pull out of the connector hose. (Refer to Fig. 4.) Slide grommet off filler tube.

(4) Loosen the nuts that hold the ends of the fuel tank down straps until the button head studs can be disengaged from the floor pan brackets. Disengage studs from brackets and at the same time support the tank. Drop the tank straight down and out from under the vehicle.

Fig. 4—Fuel Tank Mounting (Imperial)

60x98

MyMopar.com

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK) 14-41

(5) Remove the gauge tank unit, using spanner wrench Tool C-3582.

Inspect the rubber grommet removed from the filler tube. I f cracked or deteriorated, install a new grommet at reassembly. b. Installation

Before installing the tank gauge unit, check the condition of the filter on the end of suction tube. I f filter is corroded, install a new filter.

(1) Position the fuel tank gauge unit in the tank, using a new gasket. Using Tool C-3582, tighten the unit securely.

(2) Place a new " 0 " seal ring in the fuel tank filler neck.

(3) Slide the fuel tank up into position against the floor pan. Install the button head studs into slots in the mounting brackets. Snug nuts down but do not tighten.

(4) Slide the grommet over the filler tube, then insert filler tube through opening in rear panel. (Be sure the vent tube is up and engages the rubber hose connection.)

(5) Push the filler tube down until the tube is aligned with the tank neck opening. Using a rubber hammer, drive the tube into the seal ring until the dimples on the tube seat on the shoulder of the seal retainer. (Check to see that the vent tube has entered the hose correctly.)

(6) Connct the vent tube on the forward end of the tank with the rubber hose and vent tube mounted on the floor pan. Be sure the end of the tube is open. (Refer to Fig. 4.)

(7) Tighten the tank hold down strap attaching nuts securely. Connect the fuel line to the tank and wire lead to the tank unit.

(8) Refill the tank and check for leaks.

FUEL TANK {Town and Country) (Fig. 2) a. Removal

(1) Drain the tank, and disconnect the fuel line and the lead to the gauge unit under the rear fender, behind the wheel house.

(2) Remove the screws that attach the stone shield to the lower edge of the wheel house at the rear. Remove the shield.

(3) Remove the button plug at the rear of wheel house (in front of gauge unit).

(4) Remove the bolt and washer that attaches the tank hold down strap to the lower support.

(5) Remove the filler cap and the filler tube sleeve attaching screws. Using a suitable tool, or Tool C-

3584, pull out the filler tube. Slide the sleeve out of the body opening. Remove the gasket from sleeve and " 0 " ring from the filler tube.

(6) Slide the tank down and out from under the quarter panel. Reach up under the quarter panel and disengage the hold down strap from the bracket.

If strap is to be replaced, refer to Figure 2.

(7) Loosen the tank gauge unit, using a spanner wrench Tool C-3582. Slide the unit up and out of the tank.

Check the condition of the rubber " 0 " ring. I f cracked or deteriorated, install a new " 0 " ring at reassembly. b. Installation

Before installing the tank gauge unit, check the condition of the filter on the end of suction tube. I f the filter is corroded, install a new filter.

(1) Position the fuel tank gauge unit in tank, using a new gasket. Tighten securely, using Tool

C-3582.

(2) Slide the hold down strap up under this quarter panel, inserting the end of strap into slot. Allow the strap to hang.

(3) Install a new "0" ring in the neck of the tank. (Fig. 2).

(4) Slide the tank up under the quarter panel with the gauge unit facing front of the vehicle.

Push the tank up into position. Make sure the filler neck is aligned with the opening in top of the quarter panel. Attach with the strap and bolt. Do not tighten.

(5) Place a new gasket over the filler tube and down against the flange. Insert the filler tube down into neck of tank. Drive the tube into " 0 " ring unt i l the dimples in the tube contact the seal retainer.

Be sure the anchor tab on the tube is aligned with a screw hole. Install the screws and tighten securely.

(6) Tighten the fuel tank hold down strap bolt securely.

(7) Install the stone shield. Connect fuel line and lead to gauge unit. Reinstall the button plugs. Refill the tank and check for leaks.

For testing the fuel gauge, refer to the "Electrical" Group, 8 "Gauges."

MyMopar.com

1442 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

THHOTTLE LINKAGE

The throttle linkage used on the 1962 Chrysler and

Imperial Models has been changed to a new linkage adjustment. Should i t become necessary to adjust the throttle linkage, refer to Figures 1, 2 and 3 for the complete instructions.

Condition

Poor idling

Poor acceleration

SE1VICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Idle air bleed carbonized (a) or of incorrect size.

(b) Idle discharged holes (b) plugged or gummed.

(c) Throttle body carbonized (c) or worn throttle shaft.

(d) Damaged or worn idle (d) mixture needle.

(e) Low grade fuel or incorrect float level.

(f) Loose main body to (f) throttle body screws.

(a) Accelerator pump bypass (a) seat corroded or bad.

(e)

(b) Accelerator pump piston (b)

(or plunger) leather too hard, worn, or loose on stem.

Disassemble the carburetor. Then, use compressed air to clear idle bleed after soaking it in a suitable solvent.

Disassemble the carburetor. Then, use compressed air to clear idle discharge holes after soaking the main and throttle bodies in a suitable solvent.

Disassemble the carburetor. Check the throttle valve shaft for wear. If excessive wear is apparent, replace the throttle body assembly.

Replace the worn or damaged idle needle. Adjust the air mixture.

Test the fuel level in the carburetor. Adjust as necessary to obtain the correct float level.

Tighten the main body to throttle body screws securely to prevent air leaks and cracked housings.

Disassemble the carburetor. Clean and inspect accelerator pump by-pass jet. Replace by-pass jet, if it is in

questionable condition.

Disassemble the carburetor. Replace accelerator pump assembly if leather is hard, cracked or worn.

Test follow-up spring for* compression.

(c) Faulty accelerator pump (c) discharge ball.

(d) Faulty accelerator pump (d) inlet check ball.

(e) Incorrect fuel or float (e) level.

(f) Worn or corroded needle (f) valve and seat.

(g) Worn accelerator pump (g) and throttle linkage.

(h) Automatic choke not operating properly.

(h)

Disassemble the carburetor.

Use compressed air to clear the discharge nozzle and channels after soaking the main body in a suitable solvent. Test the fuel pump capacity.

Disassemble the carburetor. Check the accelerator pump inlet check ball for poor seat or release. If part is faulty, replace.

Test the fuel or float level in the carburetor. Adjust as necessary to obtain the correct float level.

Clean and inspect the needle valve and seat. If found to be in questionable condition, replace assembly.

Then, test fuel pump pressure. Refer to Data and

Specifications for correct fuel pump pressure.

Disassemble the Carburetor. Replace the worn accelerator pump and throttle linkage and measure for the correct position.

Test adjustment and operation of automatic choke.

If necessary, replace the choke.

MyMopar.com

WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION 1. ASSEMBLE THROTTLE LINKAGE IN PLACE.

2. DISCONNECT CHOKE © AT CARBURETOR OR BLOCK CHOKE IN FULL

OPEN POSITION. OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO RELEASE FAST IDLE CAM,

THEN RETURN THROTTLE TO CURB IDLE.

3. WITH THE LOCK NUT (3) LOOSE IN THE CARBURETOR R O D INSERT

A 3/16" DIA. ROD ® APPROXIMATELY 10" LONG THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE

BELLCRANK BRACKET AND LEVER ASSY.

4. TIGHTEN CARBURETOR ROD LOCK NUT (3).

5. DISCONNECT ONE END OF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL ROD ® . ADJUST

ITS LENGTH TO PROVIDE A PEDAL ANGLE OF 113° TO 115° REINSTALL

THE ROD.

6. REMOVE THE 3/16" DIA. ROD (4) FROM THE BELLCRANK BRACKET

AND LEVER ASSY.

7. CONNECT CHOKE ROD © OR REMOVE BLOCKING FIXTURE.

(2)

WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

1. ASSEMBLE THROTTLE LINKAGE IN PLACE.

2. DISCONNECT CHOKE ® AT CARBURETOR OR BLOCK CHOKE IN FULL

OPEN POSITION. OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO RELEASE FAST IDLE

CAM, THEN RETURN THROTTLE TO CURB IDLE.

3. WITH THE LOCK NUTS LOOSE O N THE CARBURETOR © AND T R A N S M I S S I O N ®

RODS INSERT A 3/16" DIA. ROD © APPROXIMATELY 10" LONG THROUGH

THE HOLES IN THE BELLCRANK BRACKET AND LEVER ASSEMBLY.

4.

MOVE THE TRANSMISSION LEVER ® FORWARD AGAINST THE STOP

AND TIGHTEN TRANSMISSION ROD LOCK N U T ® .

5.

DISCONNECT ONE END OF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL ROD © . ADJUST

ITS LENGTH TO PROVIDE A PEDAL ANGLE OF 113° TO 115°. REINSTALL

THE ROD.

6. REMOVE THE 3/16" DIA. ROD ® FROM BELLCRANK BRACKET AND LEVER

ASSY.

7. MOVE LINK ® OF CARBURETOR ROD ASSY. REARWARD UNTIL THE

TRANSMISSION LEVER STOP IS CONTACTED. TIGHTEN CARBURETOR ROD

LOCK NUT (3).

8. CONNECT CHOKE ROD ® OR REMOVE BLOCKING FIXTURE.

Fig. 1—Throttle Linkage Adjustment (All except C-300H and Imperial)

FWD.

62x147

MyMopar.com

WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION

3 .

A S S E M B L E

THROTTLE

L I N K A G E

IN

P L A C E .

BLOCK CHOKE

I N F U L L O P E N

POSITION. OPEN

R E A R C A R B U R E T O R

THROTTLE

S L I G H T L Y T O R E L E A S E

FAST IDLE

C A M , T H E N R E T U R N

T H R O T T L E T O C U R B I D L E .

WITH THE

L O C K N U T S L O O S E O N T H E

C O N N E C T O R (

T

) & - C A R B U R E T O R ( 3 )

R O D S , I N S E R T A 3 / 1 6 " D I A . R O D ( 5 ) A P P R O K I M A T E L Y 1 0 " L O N G

T H R O U G H T H E H O L E S I N T H E

BELLCRANK BRACKET

A N D L E V E R A S S Y .

T I G H T E N C A R B U R E T O R R O D

LOCK

N U T ( 3 )

D I S C O N N E C T O N E E N D O F

THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL

R O D ( § )

I T S L E N G T H T O P R O V I D E

A PEDAL ANGLE OF 111

.

ADJUST

REINSTALL

T H E R O D .

R E M O V E T H E 3 / 1 6 " D I A .

R 0 D

(5)

F R 0 M

THE BELLCRANK BRACKET AND

L E V E R A S S Y .

W I T H T H E R E A R C A R B U R E T O R

AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE,

A D J U S T

THE

L E N G T H O F T H E C O N N E C T O R

ROD BY TURNING THE

A D J U S T I N G S T U D ( 2 )

S O T H A T T H E F R O N T C A R B U R E T O R I S A L S O A T W I D E O P E N T H R O T T L E .

T I G H T E N T H E L O C K N U T ( T ) ^ R E M O V E B L O C K I N G F I X T U R E

W I T H A U T O M A T I C T R A N S M I S S I O N

1. ASSEMBLE

T H R O T T L E L I N K A G E I N

PLACE.

2 . B L O C K C H O K E I N F U L L O P E N P O S I T I O N .

OPEN

R E A R C A R B U R E T O R

T H R O T T L E S L I G H T L Y T O R E L E A S E F A S T I D L E C A M , T H E N R E T U R N

T H R O T T L E T O C U R B I D L E .

3 . W I T H T H E L O C K N U T S L O O S E O N T H E C O N N E C T O R (T) C A R B U R E T O R @

A N D T R A N S M I S S I O N ® R O D S I N S E R T A 3 / 1 6 " D I A . R O D Q A P P R O X I M A T E L Y

1 0 " L O N G T H R O U G H T H E H O L E S I N T H E B E L L C R A N K B R A C K E T A N D L E V E R

A S S E M B L Y .

4 . M O V E T H E T R A N S M I S S I O N L E V E R ( 7 ) F 0 R W A R D A G A I N S T T H E S T O P

A N D T I G H T E N T R A N S M I S S I O N R O D L O C K

NUT(ft)

5 . D I S C O N N E C T O N E E N D O F T H E A C C E L E R A T O R P E D A L R O D ©

A D J U S T I T S L E N G T H T O P R O V I D E A P E D A L A N G L E O F 1 1 3 ° T O

1 1 5 ° . R E I N S T A L L T H E R O D .

6 . R E M O V E T H E 3 / 1 6 " D I A .

R O D ( | ) F R O M

B E L L C R A N K B R A C K E T A N D L E V E R A S S Y .

7 . M O V E L I N K ( 4 ) 0 F C A R B U R E T O R R O D A S S Y . R E A R W A R D U N T I L T H E

T R A N S M I S S I O N L E V E R S T O P I S C O N T A C T E D . T I G H T E N C A R B U R E T O R R O D

L O C K

N U T

( 3 )

8 . W I T H T H E R E A R C A R B U R E T O R A T W I D E O P E N T H R O T T L E , A D J U S T T H E

L E N G T H O F T H E C O N N E C T O R R O D B Y T U R N I N G T H E A D J U S T I N G S T U D

S O T H A T T H E F R O N T C A R B U R E T O R I S A L S O A T W I D E O P E N T H R O T T L E .

T I G H T E N T H E L O C K N U T Q R E M O V E B L O C K I N G F I X T U R E

Fig.

2—

Throttle Linkage Adjustment (C-300H)

62 x 297

MyMopar.com

1. ASSEMBLE THROTTLE LINKAGE IN PLACE.

2. DISCONNECT CHOKE © AT CARBURETOR OR BLOCK CHOKE IN FULL

OPEN POSITION. OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHILY TO RELEASE FAST IDLE

CAM, THEN RETURN THROTTLE TO CURB IDLE.

3. WITH THE LOCK NUTS LOOSE O N THE CARBURETOR (3) AND T R A N S M I S S I O N ®

RODS INSERT A 3/16" DIA ROD (4) APPROXIMATELY 10" LONG THROUGH

THE HOLES IN THE BELLCRANK BRACKET AND LEVER ASSEMBLY.

4. MOVE THE TRANSMISSION LEVER © FORWARD AGAINST THE STOP

AND TIGHTEN TRANSMISSION ROD LOCK NUT ® .

5. DISCONNECT ONE END OF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL ROD © . ADJUST

ITS LENGTH TO PROVIDE A PEDAL ANGLE OF 113° TO 115°. REINSTALL

THE ROD.

M

6. REMOVE THE 3/16" DIA. ROD @ FROM BELLCRANK BRACKET AND LEVER

ASSY.

7. MOVE LINK © OF CARBURETOR ROD ASSY. REARWARD UNTIL THE

TRANSMISSION LEVER STOP IS CONTACTED. TIGHTEN CARBURETOR ROD

LOCK NUT © .

8. CONNECT CHOKE ROD © OR REMOVE BLOCKING FIXTURE.

Fig.

3 —Throttle Linkage Adjustment (Imperial)

MyMopar.com

1446 FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

SEHVICE DIAGNOSIS Cont

'd

Condition

Carburetor floods or leaks

Possible Cause Correction body. Make sure main to throttle body screws are tight. gaskets and test for leakage. Be sure the screws are tightened securely. essary adjustment to obtain correct float level.

(d) Worn needle valve and (d) Clean and inspect the needle valve and seat. If found seat. to be in a questionable condition, replace the complete assembly and test the fuel pump pressure.

Refer to Data and Specifications for correct fuel pump pressure.

(e) Excessive fuel pump (e) Test the fuel pump pressure. If the pressure is in pressure. excess of recommended pressure (refer to Data and

Specifications), replace fuel pump.

Poor performance-

Mixture too rich

Test the float level and correct as necessary, to the proper level. proper level.

(d) Excessive fuel pump (d) Test the fuel pump pressure. Refer to Data and pressure. Specifications for recommended pressure. If pressure is in excess of recommended pressure, replace the fuel pump assembly. ing jet, using a new jet of the correct size and type.

MyMopar.com

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS 16-1

GROUP 16

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

CONTENTS

Page

Ball and Trunnion Universal Joint., .. • . • - 4

Center Bearing (SY-1). 8

Center Bearing Height (SY-1) . . . . . . . . . 7

Cross and Roller Universal Joint • • • 5

Propeller Shaft (SC-l, SC-2, SC-3). 4

Propeller Shaft (SY-1). 8

Propeller Shaft Angularity (SC-l, SC-2, SC-3) • 3

Propeller Shaft Angularity (SY-1).. 6

Service Diagnosis 8

Universal Joint (SY-1) - - • - 9

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

PROPELLER SHAFT (Models SC-l, SC-2, SC-3)

Length—Ball and Trunnion Joint Pin Centerline to Cross Centerline 59.21"

Diameter (SC-l, SC-2 Manual Transmission). 3"

(SC-l, SC-2 Automatic Transmission) 2.75"

(SC-2 413 Eng. Automatic Transmission) 3"

(SC-3 Automatic Transmission) 2.75"

UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Models SC-l, SC-2, SC-3)

Front J o i n t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ball and Trunnion

Rear Joint Cross Type

PROPELLER SHAFT (Model SY-1)

Length—Front Shaft—Cross Centerline to End of S p l i n e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

v

25.82"

Rear Shaft—Cross Centerline to Cross C e n t e r l i n e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33,08"

UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Model SY-1)

Front, Center and R e a r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ^. Cross Type

TORQUE REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds Inch-Pounds

Center Bearing Housing Nuts 35

Front—Companion Flange Nuts, 35

Rear—Clamp Bolts. 170

Rebound Bumper Plate Bolts . . . 200

Rear Spring U Bolt Nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • 70

MyMopar.com

16-2 PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

Fig. 2—Cross and Roller Universal Joint

55x767 A

MyMopar.com

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

G I O U P 16

16-3

PROPELLER SHAFT'AND.UNIVERSAL

JOINTS

PA1T I

CHRYSLER PROPELLER SHAFT AND

UNIVERSAL JOINTS

The Chrysler propeller shaft has a ball and trunnion type universal joint at its forward end (Fig.l) and a cross and roller tvpe universal joint at the rear

(Fig. 2).

All working parts are sealed against road splash, dust, mud and water. The front joint is equipped with a polished jute breather. The breather lengthens the life of the boot by decreasing the flexing action due to variations of air pressure within the assembly as the shaft moves back and forth in the joint body.

All lubrication and maintenance operations require removal and disassembly to the extent that all parts can be cleaned and inspected.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

PROPELLER SHAFT ANGULARITY

The quiet smooth operation of the propeller shaft and universal joints depends upon proper alignment together with the lubrication of the universal joints at regular intervals. The propeller shaft and rear axle housing angles may be measured by using an alignment measuring gauge, Tool J-6485 with the vehicle in a level position and no additional weight in the car.

CAUTION: The vehicle must be supported by the wheels, or front suspension lower control arms and rear axle housing. Do not use a frame contact hoist for measuring propeller shaft angularity.

(1) Use a twin post hoist or drive-on hoist, pi:, wheel or frame alignment rack. Level the vehicle.

Check the level at underside of the body sill at the center of the front door.

(2) Remove the rebound plate and bumper as-

(MODELS SC-L SC-2, SC-3) sembly from the top of the differential carrier housing.

(3) Hold the gauge, Tool J-6485 on the machined surfaces of the rebound plate bosses (Fig. 3). Adjust the gauge to center the bubble in the spirit level.

NOTE: Each time the gauge is used* the level must be on the same side of the propeller shaft.

(4) Hold the gauge on the underside of the propeller shaft near the rear universal joint (Fig. 4), and check the location of the bubble in the spirit level. The entire bubble should be within three graduations from center.

(5) I f the edge of the bubble is forward of the third graduation, the angle of the rear axle housing should be changed. Loosen all " U " bolt nuts and install two-degree tapered wedges between both rear springs and the axle housing pads with the thick

Fig.

3 —Checking the Angle of the Rear Axle Housing Fig. 4—Checking the Propeller Shaft Angle

MyMopar.com

164 PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

UNIVERSAL JOINT PROPELLER SHAFT

Fig. 5—Installing the Tapered Wedges

UNIVERSAL JOINT UNIVERSAL JOINT BODY

DUST COVER OR

BOOT 49x910

Fig. 6

—Sliding

the Cover Over the

Ballhead

and Pin end of the wedge toward the front of the car (Fig.

5). Tighten the rear spring " U " bolt nuts to 70 footpounds torque.

(6) Recheck the rear joint angle, then install the rebound bumper and plate assembly on the carrier housing. Tighten the retaining bolts to 200 inchpounds torque.

(8) Remove the clamps and loosen the dust cover.

Remove and save the breather (polished jute) locate between the shaft and the cover.

(4) Clean and examine the trunnion and the raceways in the body for roughness or wear. I f either part is to be replaced, use Tool C-3567 and a hydraulic press to press the pin out of the end of the shaft.

PROPELLER SHAFT (SC-L SC-2, SC-3 Only) a. Removal

(1) Remove both rear universal joint roller and bushing assembly clamps from the pinion yoke. (Do not disturb the retaining strap used to hold the roller assemblies on the universal joint cross.)

(2) Disconnect the front universal joint from the transmission flange and brake drum assembly. b. Installation

(1) Connect the front universal joint to the transmission flange and brake drum assembly.

Tighten the retaining nuts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Align rear of propeller shaft with the pinion yoke and position the roller and bushing assemblies into the seats of pinion yoke. Make sure the bushings and yoke seats are clean. Install the bushing clamps and tighten the clamp bolts to 170 inchpounds torque. b. Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean the parts in kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvents. I f the pin, body and dust cover have not been removed, make sure that the body and dust cover are clean inside as well as outside.

(2) Examine parts for wear or damage. The dust cover should be free from cracks and pin holes.

BALL AND TRUNNION UNIVERSAL JOINT a. Disassembly

(1) Straighten the tabs and remove the grease cover and gasket.

(2) Push the body back and remove the parts from both ends of the trunnion pin. Fig. 7—Working the Dust Cover Through Body

MyMopar.com

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

16-5 c. Assembly

When the trunnion pin and body have not been removed, a new dust cover can be Installed, after coating all parts with universal joint lubricant (Fig. 6 and Fig. 7). Without using tools, stretch the cover over the pin and work i t through the body Into position on the shaft.

(1) The trunnion pin must be centered in the propeller shaft. Use Tool C-3567 in a hydraulic press. Pin will be centered when ram contacts the spacer portion of Tool (Fig. 8).

(2) Install a thrust washer, rollers, ball, button spring and thrust button on each end of the trunnion pin and position the body over the pin assembly.

(3) Position the dust cover on the propeller- shaft with the breather (polished jute) parallel to the shaft. Install and tighten the clamp.

(4) Position the dust cover on the joint body and install the clamp.

(5) Lubricate the universal joint with two ounces of fibrous universal joint lubricant applied evenly in both raceways, one-half back of the trunnion pin and one-half between the pin and cover.

NOTE: Two ounces of universal joint lubricant would be about Vz inch deep i f placed on the universal joint grease cover. Do not use more than the specified amount. Do not place grease inside the boot.

(6) Place gasket or: the grease cover, then position cover on body w:ch labs at grooves in body.

Bend tabs to tighten in place.

Fig. 8—Installing the Universal Joint Pin b. Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean the parts in kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvents and dry with compressed air.

(2) Examine the bearing surfaces of the cross and bushings. The surfaces should be smooth, free from pits and ripples. I f the dust seal retainers are damaged replace the assembly.

(3) Examine the roller bearings in the bushings.

The bearings that have operated on a worn cross assembly should be replaced. The bearings should have a uniform appearance and should roll freely inside the bushings.

CROSS AND ROLLER UNIVERSAL JOINT a. Disassembly

(1) Remove retaining strap and slide the two rollers and bushing assemblies from the cross.

(2) Remove the retainers from the bushings in the propeller shaft yoke. Press one roller bushing out of the yoke by pressing in on the opposite bushing.

(3) Press the remaining bushing out by pressing on the end of the cross assembly.

(4) Remove the cross from the yoke. The cross and seal retainers are serviced as an assembly. Do not remove the seal retainers from the cross. c. Assembly

(1) Force fibrous universal joint grease between the rollers in all four bushings. Fill the reservoirs in the ends of the cross.

(2) Place the cross in the propeller shaft yoke and insert the roller and bushing assemblies in the yoke.

(3) Press the roller and bushing assemblies into the yoke while guiding the cross into both bushings.

(4) Press until both bushing retainers can be installed in the grooves in the bushings.

(5) Position the other two bushings on the cross and install the retainer strap to hold the bushings on the cross during installation in the vehicle.

MyMopar.com

16-6 PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

PART I I

IMPERIAL TWO-PIECE PIOPELLEH SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

The imperial two-piece propeller shaft has three cross and roller type universal joints. The shaft is supported by a ball bearing located ahead of the center universal joint.

When the vehicle Is in motion, the middle universal joint is free to slide fore and aft inside the splines of the front section of the shaft.

Since lubrication and maintenance services require disassembly, cleaning and inspection, this work is done best with the propeller shaft assembly removed from the car.

PROPELLER SHAFT ANGULARITY (SY-1)

Before checking the propeller shaft angularity, the vehicle should have the weight of a full tank of fuel

Check the shaft indexing (Fig. 9) by prying the tang of the retainer out of the seal cap and unscrewing the cap. The " 0 " mark on the splined yoke should be lined up with the keyway In the shaft.

(1) Place the vehicle on a level platform with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels.

(2) Remove the differential carrier rebound bumper plate.

(3) Remove the shims from both rear axle control strut frame brackets (Fig. 10).

(4) Hold the aligning gauge Tool J-6485 on the machined pads of the differential carrier and adjust the gauge to center the bubble (Fig. 3).

NOTE: Each time the gauge is used, the level must be on the same side of the propeller shaft.

(5) Hold the gauge tool in contact with the propeller shaft, near the rear universal joint (Fig. 4).

The entire bubble should be within three graduations from center.

(6) I f the edge of the bubble is forward of the third graduation, the angle of the rear axle housing should be changed. Loosen all " U " bolt nuts and i n -

Fig. i

—

Propeller Shaft and Center Rearing Assembly

(Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS 16-7 stall two-degree tapered shims between both rear springs and the rear axle housing pads with the thick end of the shim coward the front of the car.

Tighten the " U " bolt nuts to 70 foot-pounds torque.

(7) Install enough shims to till the space between the struts and the frame brackets. Tighten the brackets.

(S> Recheck the rear joint angle, then install the rebound bumper plate assembly. Tighten the retaining bolts to 200 inch-pounds torque.

CENTER BEARING HEIGHT SY-1

(1 Hold the gauge tool in contact with the rear propeller shaft, near the rear universal joint and adjust th-f gauge to center the bubble (Fig, 4).

(2) Install the gauge adapter on the front propeller shaft near the front universal joint (Fig. 11).

NOTE: The gauge adapter must be used on all Imperial models (with or without the frame X member).

(3) Without disturbing the gauze setting (adjusted in step 1), hold the gauge in contact with the

Fig.

12—Indexing the Gauge to the Adapter

(Convertible Frame Shown) bottom of the adapter and the pins on the side of the adapter (Fig. 12). Note the location of the bubble in the spirit level.

NOTE: Each time the gauge is used, the level must be on the same side of the propeller shaft.

(4) For each graduation, the leading edge of the bubble Is forward of center (Fig, 13), add one shim beneath the center bearing support bracket.

(5) For each graduation, the trailing edge of the bubble is to the rear of center (Fig. 14), remove one shim from beneath the center bearing bracket.

(6) Tighten the center bearing support bracket retaining bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

ADO SHIMS

58x705

Fig. 13

—

Bubble Location (Forward of Center)

Fig. 11—Gauge Adapter Installed

(Convertible Frame Shown)

SUBTRACT SHIMS

58x706

Fig. 14

—

Bubble Location (Rear of Center)

MyMopar.com

16-8

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

PROPELLER SHAFT (SY-1) b. Assembly (Fig. 9) a. Removal

(1) Disconnect the front universal joint adapter flange from the brake drum assembly.

(2) Remove the rear universal joint clamps from the rear axle pinion shaft yoke. I f the bushing retainer is holding the bushings on the cross, i t is not necessary to remove the bushings.

(3) Remove the center bearing housing bolts and remove the shims from under the housing.

(4) Remove the propeller shaft as an assembly, toward the rear of the vehicle. b. Installation

(1) Insert the forward section of the propeller shaft assembly over the body crossmember, and connect the front universal joint adapter flange to the brake drum assembly. Tighten the retaining nuts to

35 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Connect the rear universal joint to the pinion yoke. Tighten the clamp bolts to 170 inch-pounds torque.

(3) Position the shims under the center bearing housing, install and tighten bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(1) Clean the lubricant from the internal splines in the front shaft and repack with one ounce of

"Molydisulphide" lubricant. Install the slinger ring on the front shaft.

(2) Install the bearing in the housing and place on the front shaft.

(3) Install the slinger and the star retaining washer.

(4) Lubricate the inside of the grease seal and install the retainer and seal on the yoke. (Care should be taken to prevent the splines of the yoke from damaging the seal.)

(5) Align the index marks of the shaft and yoke and install the yoke.

(6) Tighten the retaining cap sufficiently to compress the seal firmly on the shaft of the yoke and free enough to permit hand movement of the yoke back and forth in the front shaft. Lock the retaining cap by bending the tab of the washer into the notch in the retaining cap.

(7) Install the propeller shaft assembly in the car as described in Paragraph "Propeller Shaft"

(SY-1).

UNIVERSAL JOINT (SY-1) a.

Disassembly

CENTER BEARING (SY-1)

The center bearing is packed and sealed and needs no further lubrication. To service the center bearing, remove the propeller shaft assembly, as described in Paragraph "Propeller Shaft" (SY-1). a. Disassembly

(1) Thoroughly clean the center bearing housing,

(Note the index marks on the rear of the front shaft and matching mark on the shoulder of the universal yoke.) (Fig. 9).

(2) Straighten the tab of the star washer and unscrew the cap or the seal retainer.

(3) Remove the star washer and slinger.

(4) Pull the yoke, seal retainer and seal from the front shaft.

(5) Remove the bearing and housing from the front shaft (front slinger may be left on shaft).

(6) Press the bearing from the housing.

(7) Remove the seal and retaining cap from the yoke.

(1) Straighten one end of the bushing retainer strap, and remove i t from the bushings. (The universal joint bushing retainer strap is used to hold the bushings on cross during assembly and disassembly.) Remove the universal joint bushings.

(2) Remove the retainers and press the bushing out of the shaft yoke by pushing the opposite bushing in.

(3) Remove the remaining bushing by pushing on the opposite end of the cross.

(4) Remove and discard the old seals from the bushing seal retainers. Do not remove seal retainers from the cross.

(5) Using a small screwdriver, lightly pry the roller retainers out of the bushings and remove the rollers.

(6) Thoroughly clean and air dry all parts and inspect for worn, pitted or brinelled surfaces. b. Assembly

(1) Coat the inside of the bushings lightly with

MyMopar.com

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS 16-9

universal joint grease and line the inside circumference of the bushings with rollers. (Care should be taken that all of the rollers are reinstalled.) Reinstall the roller retainers.

(2)

Pack the universal joint grease between the rollers of all four bushings and fill the reservoirs in the ends of cross. Install new seals.

(3) Install the two bushings and rollers, and hold in place with the retainer strap.

(4) Place the cross in the shaft yoke, press the bushings into place and Install the retainers.

SERVICE DIAGOSiS

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Propeller Shaft (a) Excessive grease in the universal (a) Remove all grease and pack a total

2

ounces of

Vibration joint dust boot (Chrysler). fibrous grease evenly fore and aft of the trunnion pin In both raceways.

(b) Undercoating or other foreign ma(b) Clean propeller shaft and wash with solvent. terial on shaft.

(c) Loose universal joint flange bolts. (c) Tighten the flange bolts.

(d) Loose universal joint flange. (d) Install a new flange If worn and tighten to specifications.

(e) Bent universal joint flange. (e) Install a new flange.

(f) Improper height of center bearing (f) Correct the propeller shaft angularity.

(Imperial).

(g) Improper drive line angularity.

(fa) Rear suspension spring center bolt not In seat.

(i) Broken rear spring.

(j) Rear springs not matched.

(k) Worn trunnion pin.

(g) Correct the propeller shaft angularity.

00 Loosen the spring clamps and reset the spring center bolt.

(i) Replace the broken spring.

(j) Install the correct spring.

(k) Recondition the universal joint. Install a new trunnion pin.

(1) Trunnion pin not centered. (1) Using Tool C-3567, replace trunnion pin.

(m) Worn universal joint bearings or (m) Recondition the universal joint. missing needle bearings.

(n) Worn universal joint housing. (ii) Recondition the universal joint. Install a new housing.

(o) Propeller shaft damaged (bent tube) or out of balance.

(o). Install a new propeller shaft.

Universal Joint (a) Propeller shaft flange nuts loose. (a) Tighten to specified torque.

Noise

(b) Lack of lubrication. (b) Inspect and replace worn parte and lubricate with

2

ounces of fibrous grease.

(c) Worn universal joint pin or housing. (c) Replace worn parts.

MyMopar.com

SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

174

GROUP 17

SPMNGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

CONTENTS

Page

Bushing Replacement—Spring Leaf. 5

Front Shock Absorbers 5

Interliners . 4

Rear Shock Absorbers 6

Rear Springs • 3

Service Diagnosis 6

Spring Maintenance 2

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

SPRINGS

Model. SC-l SC-2 SC-3 • SY-1

Type. Semi-Elliptic

No. of Leaves

Sedans ( a i l ) . . . . . . . . 6 6 7 6

Hardtops (all) 6 6 7 6

Convertibles 6 6 7 6

Town and Country Wagon 6 — 7 —

Width (Inches) 2.50

Length (Inches) 57 57 60 60

Shackle Silent Block Rubber Bushings

Hanger Side Strapped with Rubber Bushed Bolts

SHOCK ABSORBERS

Type. Oriflow, Double Acting Hydraulic

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds

Rear Spring Front Pivot Bolt Nut 125

Rear Spring Shackle Nuts 40

Rear Spring "V" Bolt Nuts (SC-l and SC-2).. 55

(SC-3 and SY-1).

50

Shock Absorbers Mounting Nut (Rear) . . , 60

(Front—Upper). 25

(Front—Lower) , 55

Shock Absorbers Stud Nut—Lower 70

Upper. . . . 60

MyMopar.com

17-2 SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

G I O U P 17

SP1INGS AND SHOCI ABSOHBEHS

SERVICE PROCEDURES

SPRING MAINTENANCE

I t is important that spring " U " bolts be inspected at regular intervals and kept tight to prevent spring breakage. Tighten the spring bolt nuts 55 footpounds torque (SC-l and SC-2) 50 foot-pounds torque (SC-3 and SY-1). The spring shackles should be inspected occasionally to make sure they are tight, but not binding. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds torque.

No lubrication of any kind should be used on the rear springs or rubber bushings.

When measuring the rear spring heights, the vehicle should be placed on a level floor, have the correct front suspension height, the correct tire pressures, no passenger or luggage compartment load and a full tank of fuel.

To measure the rear spring height:

(1) Jounce the car several times (rear bumper first). Release the bumpers at the same point in each cycle.

(2) Measure the shortest distance from the highest point on the underside of the rear axle bumper strap (at rear of bumper) to the top of the axle housing.

(3) Measure both right and left sides.

I f these measurements vary by more than % inch, it is an indication that one of the rear springs may need replacing.

It is normal for rear springs to show some reverse arch, even with no load, so appearance alone should not be the reason for spring replacement.

Fig. 1—Rear Springs and Shackles (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS 17-3 outward until the nut contacts the spring mounting bracket.

(5) Remove the silent block bolt nut and using a suitable tool, force the silent block bolt out of the spring.

(6) Remove the spring " U " bolts and the spring.

Fig.

2 —Rear Spring Rear Hanger

Springs may "bottom" under abnormal loading conditions, particularly when road dips and railroad crossings are encountered at relatively high speeds.

REAR SPRING (Fig. I) a. Removal

(1) With the car body frame supported on the floor stands and jack pressure under the axle housing, disconnect the shock absorber.

(2) Lower the jack until it supports only the weight of the axle housing and remove the rear spring rear shackle (Fig. 2).

(3) Loosen the rear spring silent b'ock bolt nut.

The nut should be backed off until it is retained on the silent block bolt (Fig. 3) by two or three threads.

(4) Using a pry bar between the silent block bolt nut and the body frame, force the silent block bolt b. Installation

(1) Position the springs in their respective front hangers and install the silent block bolts and nuts

(finger tight only).

(2) Install the spring shackles and nuts.

(3) Install the spring " U " bolts and nuts.

(4) Tighten the spring U-bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds torque (SC-l and SC-2), 50 foot-pounds torque (SC-

3 and SY-1)., and shackle bolt nuts 40 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Connect the shock absorbers.

(6) Remove the vehicle floor stands and with the vehicle weight on the wheels, torque the silent block bolt to 125 foot-pounds torque.

Fig. 4—Rear Spring Front Interliner

Fig. 3—Rear Spring Front Hanger Fig.

5—Rear Spring Rear Interliner

MyMopar.com

17-4 SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

Fig. 6—Separating the Spring Leaves Fig. 8—Installing the Interliner Fastener

(7) The bushings and shackles should not be lubricated at any time. Measure the car curb height whenever a rear spring or shackle has been replaced.

(4) Position the aligning clip (Fig. 9) and tighten the retainer nut. Do not lubricate rear springs. The interliners act as the friction control and receive no lubrication.

REAR SPRING INTERLINERS (Figs. 4 and 5) a.

Removal

(1) Raise the rear end of the frame until the shock absorbers are fully extended.

(2) Remove the alignment clips from the spring.

(3) Separate the spring leaves (Fig. 6) and remove the interliners. f v

1 b. Installation

(1) With the leaves separated, be sure the spring leaf where the interliner makes contact is clean and smooth.

(2) Insert the interliner between the spring leaves (Fig. 7) until the fasteners are aligned with the holes.

(3) Pry the fastener through the hole in the spring leaf (Fig. 8).

Fig. 9—Positioning ths Aligning Clips

61 x 272A i

61 x270A

Fig. 10—Removing or Installing the Spring Leaf Bushing

Fig. 7—Positioning the Interliner Using Tool C-3709

MyMopar.com

SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

17-5

SPRING LEAF BUSHING REPLACEMENT

Removal of the old bushing and installation of the new bushing is performed in one operation, using

ToolC-3709 (Fig. 10).

(1) On bolt SP-3178, position the bearing washer

SP-92, thrust bearing SP-332, bushing adaptor SP-

3179 (flat side of adapter next to the washer), spring leaf bushing and remover adapter SP-3180.

(2) Insert bolt SP-3178 through the bushing to be removed.

(3) Install adapter SP-3242 on bolt SP-3178. The slot in adaptor SP-3242 should be visible to aid i n correct positioning of the bushing as i t is being installed.

(4) Tighten bolt SP-3178 to remove the old bushing and install the new bushing. Remove the tool after the new bushing has been correctly positioned.

SHOCK ABSOHBEBS

NOTE: The Oriflow shock absorber cannot be refilled or disassembled. When servicing is required, the shock absorber must be removed and a new unit installed. SHOCK ABSORBERS SHOULD ONLY

BE REPLACED I F THEY HAVE LOST THEIR

RESISTANCE OR I F THEY DRIP OIL. EVIDENCE

OF SLIGHT OIL MOISTURE ON OUTSIDE OF

SHOCK ABSORBER IS NOT CAUSE TO REPLACE

SHOCK ABSORBER.

FRONT S H O C I ABSORBER AND/OR BUSHING a. Removed

(1) Refer to Figure 11 and disconnect the upper end of the shock absorber piston rod.

(2) Compress the shock absorber by pushing the rod through the shock absorber support.

(3) Remove the lower mounting bolt and remove the shock absorber.

(4) Using a suitable drift, force the steel sleeve out of the upper bushing.

(5) Remove the bushing through the frame opening and inspect for weor, damage or deterioration.

I f bushing is to be replaced, remove the lower mounting bushing from the shock absorber, using Tool

C-3568

(Fig. 12). b. Testing and Bleeding the Shock absorber

Hold

the shock absorber in an upright position with the dust shield section upward. Extend the shock absorber

to

the maximum length and turn i t upside down. Compress the shock absorber. Repeat this

Fig.

11

—Front Shock Absorber (Typical Installation)

Fig.

12

—Removing or Installing the Shock Absorber

Lower Bushing

MyMopar.com

17-6

SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS

procedure to make sure all air is removed from the unit, Do not extend shock absorber when it is in the upside down or in a horizontal position, otherwise air will enter the cylinder tube.

A

steady resistance should be felt when the shock absorber is extended or compressed. If no resistance is felt, replace the shock absorber. c.

Installation up) on the rod and into position.

(6) Hold the shock absorber in the installed position in the frame. Slide the upper cup washer (concave side down) over piston rod and down onto the bushing. Install the nut finger tight.

(7) Position the lower end of the shock absorber in the mounting bracket on the lower control a r m , then install retaining bolt, lockwasher, and nut.

Tighten to 55 foot-pounds torque. While holding the piston rod, tighten the piston rod nut to 25 footpounds torque after the upper and lower washers bottom against the core sleeve.

(1)

Install the upper bushing in the frame opening using a hammer and brass rod of suitable size.

Dip the bushing in water to aid in installation.

W h e n installed properly, the groove in the bushing will index with the opening in the shock absorber tower.

(2)

Install the steel sleeve in the bushing.

(3) U s i n g Tool C-3553 press the lower bushing into the shock absorber eye until it is centered.

Always press against the steel sleeve to avoid damage to the assembly.

(4)

Bleed the shock absorber, Paragraph " F r o n t

Shock Absorber and/or B u s h i n g " then compress to its shortest length.

(5)

Install the lower cup washer (concave side

REAR SHOCI ABSORBER REPLACEMENT

(1) Remove the nuts and washers attaching the shock absorber to the mounting studs.

(2) Remove the shock absorber from the studs.

(3)

Inspect the bushing for deterioration, damage, or wear. Install new bushings if necessary. Test and bleed the shock absorber as outlined in P a r a graph " F r o n t Shock Absorber and/or Bushing."

(4)

Position the shock absorber on the mounting studs and install the remaining cupped washers and nuts. Tighten the upper and lower stud nuts to 60 foot-pounds torque.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition

1. Springs

Sag

or Bottom

Possible Cause Correction

2.

Spring Noise

3.

Spring Breakage

4.

Strut Noise

Cracking or Granting

Noise at Rear End of

Imperial Models. leaves.

(a) Loose

" U " necessary.

Tighten the " U " bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds torque (SC-l and SC-2) 50 foot-pounds torque

(SC-3 and SY-1).

(b) Loose or worn shackle bushings, (b) Replace the bushings and tighten shackle bolt nuts 40 foot-pounds torque.

(c) Worn or missing interliners..

(a) Loose " U " bolts

(b) Shock absorber inoperative,

(a) Loose strut bushing bolt nut.

(c)

(a)

Install new interliners.

Tighten the " U " bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds torque (SC-l and SC-2), 50 foot-pounds torque

(b)

(a)

• (SC -3 or SY -1).

Replace the spring and the shock absorber.

Tighten the strut bushing bolt nut to 65 foot-pounds torque.

(b) Faulty strut bushing. (b) Install new bushing. Tighten bushing bolt nut to 65 foot-pounds torque.

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-1

GROUP IS

STEERING GEAR QPUMPS, STEERING GEAR ARM. IDLER ARM)

CONTENTS

MANUAL STEEHING

Page

Data and Specifications 2

Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment 12

Gear Shaft Oil Seal Replacement • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Jacket Tube Bearing Replacement 5

Roller Tooth and Worm Adjustment • • 10

Service Diagnosis

—

33

Steering Gear Alignment . . . 10

Steering Gear Removal and Installation. . . . 7

Steering Knuckles Removal and I n s t a l l a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11

Steering Linkage « U

Worm Shaft Oil Seal Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

POWER STEERING

Column Jacket Support Disassembly . . . . . . 19

Cylinder Head Disassembly 19

Data and Specifications 2

Final Test, Adjustments and Specifications (Steering G e a r ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Gear Shaft Disassembly ..., . . . . . . . 21

Gear Shaft Adjustment 15

Power Steering Gear Removal and Installation 15

Power Train Assembly * • • 22

Power Train Disassembly 18

Service Diagnosis 34

Steering Gear Housing Removal and I n s t a l l a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Steering Gear Installation (In the Vehicle)

2 6

Steering Valve Assembly 20

POWER STEERING PUMP

Data and Specifications. 2

Fluid Level 28

Power Steering Belt A d j u s t m e n t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Power Steering Pump Removal and Installation 30

Pressure Test. 28

Pump Flow Test. . ,

2 9

Service Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , 37

MyMopar.com

19-2 STEERING GEAR

DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS

MANUAL STEEHING

Type. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Worm and Three Tooth Roller

R a t i o . . . . . . . . . • 20.4 to 1

Gear Shaft Bearings 2 Needle Roller Bearings

Worm Shaft Bearings Tapered Roller

High Point (Wheels Straight Ahead) Notch on Steering Column

Tube Straight Up

POWER STEERING

Ratio 16 to 1

Fluid Capacity of Hydraulic System 2 Qts.

Type of Fluid Use only Part Number 2084329

Power Steering Fluid

POWER STEERING PUMP

T y p e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Constant Displacement

Maximum Pump Pressure SC-l, SC-2, SC-3 1000 to 1100 psi

SY-1 1150 to 1300 psi

Maximum Fluid Flow

2 %

gallons

Type of Fluid MoPar No. 2084329 Power

Steering Fluid

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

MANUAL STEERING

Foot-Pounds

Intermediate Steering Arm Pit Nut 50

Steering Gear to Frame Bolt . . . 50

Steering Gear Pitman Arm Nut. 125

Steering Wheel Nut 40

Steering Knuckle Tie Rod Clamp Bolt. 15

Steering Knuckle Tie Rod End Ball Nut 40

Steering Idler Arm Bolt Nut 60

POWER STEERING

Foot-Pounds

Pressure Control Valve Body Screws. 10

Pump Inlet Fitting 30

Reservoir to Pump Body Bolts 10-15

Steering Wheel Nut. 40

Steering Arm Nut. 120

Steering Gear Housing to Frame B o l t . . . . . . . . . — 50

Steering Valve End Plug. 25

Steering Valve Body Attaching Bolts .. 15

Steering Column Support Nut 110 to 200

Steering Gear Shaft Cover Nut 20

Steering Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Lock Nut. 50

POWER STEERING PUMP

Foot-Pounds

Pump Inlet Fitting. 30

Pump to Pump Bracket Bolts 30

Reservoir to Pump Body B o l t . . . . . 10-15

MyMopar.com

PLAIN WASHER *

BEARING-

BRACKET

SEAL RING(2^

RUBBER LIP SEAL

NUT

(21

LOCKWASHER (2}>

STEERING WHEEL

LOCKWASHER

BOLT (2)

HUB (UPPER)

M LOCK WASHER (3)

DISC (FABRIC)

PLATE

(4)

-HUB (LOWER)

-HORN GROUND

PLAIN WASHER (3)

FRAME SIDE

RAIL

LOCKWASHER (2)

NUT (2)

WORM SHAFT

WASHER

1 REQUIRED MANUAL TRANS

2 REQUIRED AUTOMATIC TRANS

WORM SHAFT

THIS WASHER USED

WITH AUTO TRANS

ONLY

MANUAL

>l(\J%*=

TRANSMISSION

61X226

CROSS SHAFT

Fig. 1—Steering Gear and Jacket Tube (Disassembled View) (Manual)

MyMopar.com

194 STEERING GEAR

SCREW

Fig. 2-—Steering Gear (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-5

G I O U P 18

STEEHING GEAR (PUMPS, STEERING GEAR ARM, IDLER ARM)

MANUAL STEEHING

The manual steering (Figs. 1 and 2) incorporates a flexible coupling (Fig. 3) which consists of a rubberfabric disc assembled between the two hubs installed between the steering gear worm shaft and the steering tube which provides alignment of the steering gear to the frame side rail and the vehicle body. The steering gear chuck has a stub worm shaft which extends up a short distance above the gear housing.

The flexible coupling attaches to the worm shaft by a serrated connection and clamp bolt. The w

T orm shaft has a master serration that matches with the master serration in the lower hub of the flexible coupling.

The upper hub of the flexible coupling is integral with the steering tube. The jacket tube is held in alignment in the vehicle body by the lower jacket clamp assembly which attaches to the brake bracket and the instrument panel clamp. The face of the steering gear housing is machined flat to position the gear flush to the frame.

NOTE: With an automatic transmission, a 11 /4" x

T/ i6"

x

¥H"

washer is added to the housing to the frame side rail bolt to compensate for the omission of the clutch torque rod mounting bracket.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

STEERING JACKET TUBE BEARING REPLACEMENT a. Steering Column Removal

(1) Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery.

(2) Remove the two screws from the underside of the steering wheel and remove the horn ring, retainer and attaching screws.

(3) Disconnect the horn wire at the horn switch; remove the horn switch screws and bushings and the horn switch.

(4) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns, install puller Tool C-3428 and remove the steering wheel nut, wheel, and puller tool.

(5) Disconnect the directional signal wires at the connectors.

(6) Remove the directional indicator switch (held to the jacket tube by two screws) (Fig. 4 ) .

(7)

Remove the two screws attaching the steering jacket tube clamp at the-instrument panel and remove the clamp.

(8) Move the trim cap up on the steering jacket

Fig. 3 —Steering Gear and Flexible Coupling Fig. 4—Removing the Turn Signal Switch

MyMopar.com

19

-6

STEERING GEAR tube and raise the floor carpet to expose the floor panel.

(9) Remove the screws attaching the dust pad to the floor panel and slide the dust pad up on the jacket tube.

(10) Remove the two nuts holding the lower jacket tube clamp to the steering column jacket bracket.

(11) Remove the clamp bolt from the steering column shaft lower coupling.

(12) Carefully lift the steering column toward the dash, tapping the lower coupling lightly with a mallet until i t is free of the worm shaft splines.

(13) Slide the steering gear jacket tube assembly rearward and remove the complete assembly through the driver's compartment.

LIP

TYPE SEAL

61x311

v

^ J j ^ /

Fig. 8 —Nylon lings and Lip Type Seal (Disassembled

View) b. Disassembly

(1) Remove the screw and directional wires cover at the jacket tube directional switch housing.

(2) Remove the snap ring and washer from the upper end of the steering column shaft, then withdraw the steering column shaft from the jacket tube.

(3) Remove the tapered spacer, spring and snap ring from the upper end of the steering column shaft, and the turn indicator cancelling dog, and slide the jacket rubber seal and nylon rings off the column shaft.

(4) Remove the jacket tube housing by carefully straightening the three retaining tabs and tapping the bearing out of the jacket tube. c.

Assembly

(1) Inspect all the parts for wear and check the rubber seal for deterioration. Replace the bearing i f

Fig. 5—Steering lacket Tube Bearing Installation there has been any indication of binding before removal of the column tube.

(2) Pack the new upper bearing with short fiber grease and with the radius end of the bearing (inside diameter) facing downward, press the bearing squarely into the jacket tube until i t stops against the bearing supporting lugs in the jacket tube, using a socket of the proper size, or a similar tool that will exert pressure on the outer race only.

(3) Place the large washer against the top side of the bearing outer race. Bend the three bearing retaining tabs down to an angle of 45 degrees (Fig. 5).

Do

not exceed the 45 degrees since this may cause internal damage to the bearing.

(4) Slide the jacket tube rubber seal and nylon rings on the steering column shaft.

(5) Install the direction indicator cancelling sleeve on the column tube.

(6)

Install the jacket bearing snap ring in the steering column shaft lower groove; install a new snap ring i f the old ring will not fully seat in the groove.

(7) Install the spring and tapered spacer (tapered end up).

(8) Carefully install the steering column shaft assembly into the column jacket tube.

(9) Support the column tube lower hub on a block of wood, place the upper snap ring on the steering column shaft, pull down on the jacket tube to compress the bearing spacer spring sufficiently

to

expose the upper groove in the steering gear shaft and install the upper snap ring.

Make sure

the snap ring seats fully in the shaft groove.

(10) Apply wheel bearing lubricant to the nylon rings and lip of the jacket tube seal and position the seal cup and nylon rings on the jacket tube large

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-7 diameter of the nylon rings butt and are retained by the recess caused by the seal lip (Fig. 6).

(11) Position the directional switch and install the switch attaching screws.

Be sure the column jacket does not restrict the switch movement.

(12) Install the directional switch wires and horn wires at the connectors. d. Installation

(1) Enter the jacket tube and steering column shaft assembly through the dash panel from the driver's side and index the lower coupling of the steering gear shaft with the steering gear worm shaft.

(2) Index the master groove of the steering gear worm shaft with the filed notch on the lower coupling. Tap the coupling down over the worm shaft splines.

(3) Install and tighten the coupling clamp bolt securely.

(4) Align the jacket tube at the instrument panel and install the jacket tube clamp and attaching screws. Tighten the screws finger tight.

(5) Install the two nuts attaching the lower jacket tube clamp to the steering column jacket bracket.

Be sure the jacket tube clamp bolt is securely tightened.

(6) Slide the dust pad down into position on the dash panel and install the attaching screws.

(7) Position the floor carpet under the dust pad and position the t r i m cap.

(8) Install the steering wheel.

(9) Install the steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds torque.

(10) Install the horn switch bushings and screws.

Attach the horn wire at the horn switch terminal.

(11) Install the horn ring, retainer and attaching screws.

(12) Inspect the steering gear shaft for alignment in the steering column seal and steering jacket alignment as outlined under "Steering Gear Alignment".

(13) Measure the up or down deflection of the flexible disc as follows: I f the deflection exceeds %

6 inch, the column jacket should be moved up or dowm to where the deflection of the disc is less than %

6

inch with the column jacket tube clamped in place. negative terminal.

(2) Remove the steering arm nut and washer and remove the steering arm from the steering gear cross shaft with puller Tool C-3646.

(3) Remove the bolt and washer attaching the lower coupling to the steering gear worm shaft.

(4) Remove the three nuts, washers and bolts attaching the steering gear to the frame side rail and slide the steering gear assembly toward the front of the vehicle to disengage the column tube flexible coupling from the steering gear worm shaft.

(5) Remove the gear through the engine compartment. b. Disassembly (Fig, 2}

(1) Remove the gear shaft oil seal from the steering housing with puller Tool C-3350. See "Gear Shaft

Oil Seal Replacement". I f the shaft is corroded or dirty, clean the portion between the oil seal and the serrations to avoid binding in the bearings.

NOTE: Position gear shaft bearing remover and installer arbor Tool C-3786 over the gear shaft threads and while withdrawing the gear shaft, follow with the arbor. This arbor will keep the bearing rollers from dropping out of their cages.

(2) Remove the gear shaft adjusting screw lock nut, cover gasket and the steering gear shaft assembly.

(3) Remove the cover and shim from the bottom cf the housing.

(4) Remove the steering shaft and worm assembly, bearings and cups.

(5) I f it is necessary to remove the housing bearings, drive the bushings from the steering gear housing with the gear shaft bearing remover and installer arbor, Tool C-3786. c. Inspection

Clean all parts in a suitable solvent. Inspect all parts for wear.

NOTE: Assemble parts without lubrication. Lubrication should be done after adjustments are completed. The needle bearings are grease-packed from the factory.

I f either of the worm thrust roller bearings are damaged, replace both bearings. Use new oil seals.

STEERING GEAR a. Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery cable at the battery

WORM SHAFT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

(1) Thread Tool C-3819 far enough into the oil seal to engage the metal portion of the seal (Fig. 7 ) .

Turning the tool center screw while holding the tool

MyMopar.com

19-8 STEERING GEAR

Fig. 7 —Removing the Worm Shaft Oil Seal

Fig. 8—Installing the Oil Seal Protector

Fig.

9— Installing the Worm Shaft Oil Seal

Fig. 10—-Removing the Gear Shalt Oil Seal body will withdraw the seal assembly from the housing bore.

(2) Place the oil seal protector of Tool C-3821 over the splines of the steering worm shaft and slide the oil seal over the protector with the lip of seal toward the housing (Fig. 8 ) .

(3) Drive the oil seal into the housing bore with

Tool C-3821 (Fig. 9).

GEAR SHAFT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT a. Removal (Fig. 10)

(1) Remove the gear shaft oil seal with Tool C-

3350 gear shaft oil seal removing and installing tool set as follows:

(2) Slide the threaded portion of the adapter SP-

3056 over the end of the gear shaft and install the threaded nut section of the tool on the gear shaft.

(3) Maintain the pressure on the adapter SP-3056 with the nut of tool, while turning the adapter SP-

3056, forcing i t into the seal until i t engages the metal lip of the seal.

(4) Slide the retainer of Tool C-3350 over the adapter, engage the grooves in the adapter and the tool nut with the two half-rings of the tool set and slide the retainer down to hold the half-rings in position.

(5) Turning the puller nut counter-clockwise will pull the oil seal from the housing. b. Installation (Fig. 11)

(1) Place the seal on the seal protector sleeve,

Tool SP-1601 and install the sleeve over the splines on the gear shaft (lip of seal toward housing).

(2) Place the adapter, Tool SP-1934, over the pro-

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-9

I f the gear shaft bearings have been removed, i n stall the gear shaft outer bearing into the housing with Tool C-3786 (Fig. 12). Drive the outer (lower) bearing to within Vie inch or end of counterbore.

Drive the inner (upper) bearing (Fig. 13) flush with the bore face with Tool C-3786.

/

6 0 X 8 0 3

Fig. 11—-Installing the Gear Shaft Oil Seal tector sleeve and against the seal.

(3) Thread the tool nut on the threaded end of the gear shaft and turn the tool nut until the shoulder of the adapter tool contacts the housing.

(4) Install the steering gear arm and nut. Tighten the nuts to 125 foot-pounds torque.

Fig.

13

—

Installing the Gear Shaft Housing Inner

Bearing

STEERING GEAR a. Assembly

(1) Insert the worm and the shaft into the housing with the bearings and cups.

(2) Install the shim and the lower housing cover, making sure the bearings are seated.

NOTE: When tightening the cover, turn the worm tube to be sure no bind exists.

(3) Final tightening of the cover screws should cause the end play to disappear with torque of % to pound required to rotate the tube, when measured with a pull scale applied at the rim of the steering wheel. Add or remove shims in the event a bind or excessive end play occurs. Shims are available in

.003, .006 and .011 inch.

(4) Install the gear shaft.

(5) Before installing the cover, turn the adjusting screw all the way out.

(6) Place the steering wheel on the tube and rotate the steering wheel in one direction to the end of its travel. Rotate the wheel in the other direction to the end of its travel, counting the turns. Rotate the wheel back U of the full number of turns. This is the exact center of travel (high point).

(7) Turn the adjusting screw (clockwise) until all the end play in the gear shaft is gone. Rotate the wheel to one end of its travel and apply a spring scale. With pull applied at rim of the steering wheel, tension should measure from 1 to 2 pounds. The greatest tension should be felt as the wheel is rotated past the center position (high point). Adjust the torque load by turning the adjusting screw in or out as required.

(8) Install the lock nut and tighten while holding the adjusting screw.

(9) Fill the gear housing with SAE 90 gear lubricant and check for leaks, b. Installation

(1) Inspect the steering gear for center by rotating the worm shaft from one end of its travel to the other while counting the number of turns.

Turn the worm shaft back one half of the full number of turns. This is the exact center of travel.

MyMopar.com

1940 STEERING GEAR bolt and lockwasher.

(8) Tighten the bolt 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE: The horn ground is attached to the underside of the coupling by two bolts to complete the circuit.

STEERING GEAR ALIGNMENT (Fig. 15)

Inspect the steering gear shaft for alignment in the steering column seal as follows:

(1) Loosen the steering column clamp bolts at the instrument panel.

(2) Loosen the lower column clamp bolt and the support bracket at both the dash panel and at the column clamp.

Fig. 14

—

Aligning the Steering Gear with Flexible

Coupling

(2) Locate the master spline in the outer row of serrations on the worm shaft. Mark the master spline.

(8) Enter the steering gear into the engine compartment.

(4) Align the index mark on the outside of the flexible coupling hub with the master spline on the steering worm shaft (Fig. 14).

(5) Slide the coupling on the worm shaft and install the gear housing to frame side rail attaching the bolts and nuts.

(6) Tighten the steering gear housing to frame bolts evenly to 50 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE: Tightening should be done by alternately tightening the rear and front mounting bolts gradually so that the gear alignment Is not disturbed.

(7) Position the flexible coupling bolt hole in line with the groove on the worm shaft and install the

NOTE: A rubber lip type seal is positioned between the upper hub of the flexible coupling and the jacket tube. The outer groove of the seal must be firmly installed on the jacket tube and the two nylon rings

(Fig.

6 ) and the lip of the seal must be well lubricated with a wheel bearing grease.

(3) Hold the steering column so it is centered plus or minus Vs inch on the tube while aligning the column support bracket to the dash panel and lower column clamp.

(4) When column is properly located, tighten the support bracket stud nuts at the dash panel and at the column clamp to 100 inch-pounds torque.

(5) Tighten the steering column to the instrument panel clamp bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

(6) Tighten the lower steering column clamp bolt nut to 200 inch-pounds torque.

(7) Reinstall the steering gear arm, washer and nut. Tighten to 125 foot-pounds torque.

Fig. 15 — Steering Gear Alignment

ADJUSTMENT OF THE ROLLER TOOTH AND

WORM(IntheYehicle)

(1) Disconnect the steering gear arm at the link.

(2) Rotate the steering wheel to mid-position and then check for backlash by attempting to move the steering gear arm back and forth.

(3) I f backlash exists, loosen the gear shaft adjustment screw lock nut and tighten the adjusting screw enough to eliminate free play. Be sure the roller shaft and the worm do not bind. Recheck the backlash.

(4) Tighten the adjusting screw lock nut while holding the adjusting screw from turning.

(5) Install the steering gear arm.

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-11

S T l E i l l G KNUCKLES a. Removal

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as near to the wheel as possible. Remove the wheel, tire and drum.

Be sure the brake shoes are covered to prevent dirt or grease from soiling the lining.

(2) Remove the cotter pins, nuts and lockwashers that attach the steering arm and brake dust shield to the steering knuckle. Remove the steering arm, brake dust shield, brake supports and shoes from the steering knuckle as an assembly but leaving the brake hose attached.

Do not allow the assembly to hang by the brake hose.

(3) Remove the ball joint studs from the steering knuckles. L i f t the steering knuckle out and away from the vehicle. b. Installation

(1) Position the upper and lower ball joint studs into the steering knuckle and install the lock washer and nuts. Tighten the upper ball joint stud nut to

100 foot-pounds torque on Models SC-l and SC-2 and

135 foot-pounds torque on Models SC-3 and SY-1.

Tighten the lower ball joint stud nut to 115 footpounds SC-l and SC-2, 135 foot-pounds (SC-3 and

SY-1) and install the cotter pin.

(2) Slide the brake dust shield, support and shoe assembly over the knuckle and into position. Install the lockwashers and nuts on the upper rear and lower front bolts.

(3) Install the upper front and lower rear bolts through the dust shield and steering knuckle. Position the steering arm over the bolts. Install the lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the steering knuckle to brake support bolts 55 foot-pounds torque and the steering knuckle to steering knuckle arm bolts 80 foot-pounds torque. Install the cotter pins.

(4) Remove the covering from the brake shoes.

Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly. Adjust the front wheel bearings. Refer to Paragraph "Front

Wheel Bearing Adjustment." In the "Front Suspension" Group 2.

STEERING LINEAGE OFlfur© 16) a. Removal

When removing the tie rod ends, idler arm or steering gear arm, all seals should be closely inspected for wear or damage. The tie rod ends are the permanently lubricated type. I f the tie rod or steering arm seals are damaged, replace the assembly.

The tie rod, seals and covers should be inspected at all oil change periods. Damaged seals necessitate replacement of the tie rod end assembly. The tie rod end seal covers are serviced separately.

CAUTION

Removal of the

tie rod

ends from the

steering knuckle arm or

center link

by methods

other than using

Tool C

-3894 will damage

the tie

rod end

seal, necessitating replacement of the complete tie rod end assembly.

-IDLER ARM •GEAR ARM e m

LINK

TIE ROD END ASSEMBLY

TIE ROD END COVER

KNUCKLE ARM

TIE ROD END

ASSEMBLY

Til

ROD END COVER'

KNUCKLE ARM-

62x72

Fig. 16—Steering Linkage (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

1942 STEERING GEAR

(1) Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arms using Tool C-3894. Use care not to d a m a g e the seals.

(2) Using Tool C-3894 remove the inner tie rod ends from the link.

(3) Remove the idler arm stud from the link using Tool C-3894.

(4) Remove the idler arm bolt from the crossmember.

(5) Remove the steering gear arm stud from the link using Tool C-3894.

GREASE CAP THRUST WASHER STEERING KNUCKLE

NUT LOCK

COTTERPIN

BEARING CUP BEARING CONE

BEARING CONE 57x309

Fig. 17—Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment b. Installation

Replace all the tie rod and steering arm assemblies that are damaged, worn, or may have damaged seals.

(1) Insert the idler arm and bushing assembly into the bracket using care not to damage the bushing. Insert the bolt and tighten to 85 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Insert the center link studs into the idler arm and steering arm and tighten the nut to 40 footpounds torque.

(3) Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle arms. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

Slide the stone protector into position and install the cotter pins.

(4) Measure and adjust the front wheel toe-in.

See "Front Suspension", Group 2.

FRONT WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT (Fig. 17)

(1) Tighten the wheel bearing and adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel.

(2) Position the nut lock on the nut with one pair of slots in line with the cotter pin hole.

(3) Back off the lock and adjusting nut to the next slot.

(4) Install the cotter pin.

NOTE: The resulting adjustment should be zero to .003 inch end play.

(5) Clean the grease cap, coat the inside with wheel bearing lubricant (do not fill) and install.

P O W E 1 S T E E I I N G

The power steering gear consists of a gear housing containing a gear shaft with sector gear, a power piston with gear teeth milled into the side of the piston is in constant mesh with the gear shaft sector

(Fig. 18) and a worm shaft connects the steering wheel to the power piston. The worm shaft is geared to the piston through a recirculating ball contact.

In this explanation of operation, the left end of the steering gear means the lower end and the right end means the upper end of the steering gear. Direction of oil flow will also be described as flowing to left or right.

When the vehicle is in the straight-ahead direction, the steering valve is in the neutral (center) position and the oil flow through both of the grooves in the steering valve body is equal, hence, in the neutral position (Fig. 19), the two lands of the steering valve are centered in the grooves of the valve body. The left oil passage directs its oil where it contacts the right (upper) end of the power piston and across into the right reaction chamber. Part of this oil is forced around the grooves of the worm shaft, inside the piston and around the recirculating balls, to the hollow area between the left (lower) end of the

Fig. 18—Steering Gear Housing (Sectional View)

MyMopar.com

TO RESERVOIR

4

PUMP

PRESSURE IN

58X200

A

Fig. 19—Steering Gear Valve (Neutral Position)

SACK P R E S S U R E •

STEERING GEAR 1943 worm shaft and the left (lower) end of the power piston. Pressure on the end of the worm shaft is balanced by the pressure against the area of the worm shaft balancing ring.

A t the same time, oil from the right groove in the steering valve is directed to the left, through a gallery, parallel to the worm shaft. This oil flows to the area below the power piston flange. Part of this oil is then directed through the cylinder head into the left reaction chamber.

Forces exerted on the piston through oil pressure on its faces are completely balanced by the two reaction rings shown in the cross section in Figure

20. The reaction ring shown to the left of the center bearing race is fed oil from the right turn power chamber oil gallery through a drilled hole.

When the driver makes a left turn, power is immediately provided by the unit to effect the turn.

As the wormshaft rotates inside the power piston, the piston is prevented from instantly "climbing

VAL/'E \+XS:<

POWER PISTON

RIGHT "URN

P O W E R

CHAMBER

C E N T E R T H R U S T

B E A R I N G P A C E

•.VORM S H A F T

BALANCING RING

Fig. 20—Steering Gear (Sectional View) 59x140A

MyMopar.com

19-14 STEERING GEAR

TO RESERVOIR

A PUMP

Fig. 21—Steering Gear Valve (Left Turn Position) down" the wormshaft by the resisting forces which the steering linkage and wheels transmit to the steering gear cross shaft. Instead, the worm shaft is "drawn out" of the piston a very small amount

(a few thousandths of an inch). The center thrust bearing race, which in effect is clamped axially to the wormshaft, moves the same distance. The race thus tips the pivot lever and moves the steering valve to the left (down).

The oil flow diagram for a left turn is shown in

Figure 21. Here i t can be seen that as the left edges of the two lands on the valve approach the groove edges of the valve body, two things happen: oil flow to the right groove in the valve body is reduced and the flow of oil to the left groove is increased because the opening is larger. Oil then flows from the power steering pump through the enlarged orifice and through the oil gallery to the left turn power chamber of the piston (Fig. 22). Since the supply of oil to the left (lower side) (right turn chamber) of the piston has been cut off by movement of the steering valve, a force of unbalance on the piston exists and i t is pushed to the left. Its linear movement is translated into rotation of the cross shaft sector gear and subsequently through the steering linkage to the front wheels.

In the reaction area of the steering unit another action takes place simultaneously as the wheel is turned to the left. The restraining force of the reaction spring must be overcome before the center race can move to the right. The force of the reaction spring provides positive returnability to the unit. A t the instant when power assistance is no longer de-

T0 RESERVOIR

Fig. 22—Oil Flow (Left Turn Position) (Typical)

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-15 sired by the driver, the reaction spring and the operating oil pressure move the center thrust bearing race and the steering spool valve back to their neutral (center) positions. Equal oil pressures then are directed to both sides of the power piston and power assist ceases immediately. The natural effect of the front wheel caster and the steering axis inclination then returns the wheels to their straight-ahead position.

When a right turn is made, all of the earlier described actions necessary to make a left turn in the steering unit are repeated, except that all of the motions are reversed. Consequently, in a right turn, the lower side of the power piston and the right turn reaction ring are pressurized (Fig. 22).

The force of this reaction spring also contributes to increased on-center "feel," The "feel" is further provided by the operating oil pressure which tends to return the center thrust bearing race to its neutral position. The driver feels this force on the reaction rings (shown in Figures 21 and 22) as a force proportional to operating oil pressure. I t causes the driver to exert a steering effort proportional to the total force required to turn the front wheels of the vehicle. The force he actually exerts is only a small percentage of the total force that would be required to steer the vehicle with a manual gear. I f the oil pressure is interrupted in the steering gear, it would operate with increased effort and there would be more steering wheel free play. However, complete steering control is retained by the driver i f a "lack of power assist" condition should ever arise.

GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTMENT

Fig. 23

—

Horn Switch and Horn Wire

Vi> turn from this position and tighten the lock nut

50 foot-pounds torque to maintain this setting.

REMOVING POWER STEERING GEAR UNIT

(1) Disconnect the battery cable at the battery negative post.

(2) On Chrysler Models ( I f so equipped) remove the steering wheel ornament by pressing down on the center ornament and turning *4 inch to remove.

(3) Disconnect the horn wire and remove three screws, bushings, horn blowing ring, rubber insulator and the horn terminal plate.

(4) Disconnect the directional signal wires and the horn wire at the connectors.

(5) Loosen the steering wheel nut three turns.

Use puller, Tool C-3428, to loosen the steering wheel.

(6) Remove the tool, steering wheel nut and the steering wheel.

(1) With the gear shaft on center, loosen the gear shaft adjusting screw lock nut U turn and tighten the adjusting screw until backlash just disappears.

Tighten the screw 1*4 turns from this position and while holding the adjusting screw in this position, tighten the lock nut.

NOTE: This is a temporary adjustment to insure that the piston rack and sector teeth are in full alignment.

(2) Operate the unit manually for a minimum of

130 degrees from the center in each direction, measured at the worm shaft.

(3) Start the engine and run at idle speed. With hydraulic power to the steering gear unit and with the gear shaft on center plus or minus 2 degrees, readjust the gear shaft backlash. This will require loosening the adjusting screw until the backlash is evident. Retighten the adjusting screw until the backlash just disappears. Continue to tighten % to Fig. 24

—

Horn Blowing Ring Mounting Plate

MyMopar.com

1946 STEERING GEAR

Fig. 25

—

Removing the Steering Wheel Fig.

27 — Removing the Directional Switch

(7) On Imperial models remove the two screws from the underside of the steering wheel and remove the horn blowing actuator and the steering wheel cover.

(8) Disconnect the horn wire at the horn blowing switch.

(9) Remove the four screws and insulators and remove the horn blowing switch (Fig. 23).

(10) Remove the four screws and remove the horn blowing ring mounting plate (Fig. 24).

(11) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and install the steering wheel puller Tool C-3428

(Fig. 25) and remove the steering wheel nut and the steering wheel.

(12) Remove the directional switch lever (Fig.

26).

(13) Remove the steering column lower cover.

(14) Remove the two screws and disconnect the switch wires at the connection and remove the directional switch and wires (Fig. 27).

(15) Remove the retainer snap ring (Fig. 28) from the groove in the steering tube at the top of the bearing using pliers Tool C-3229.

(16) Remove the jacket tube shield to allow access to the column tube clamp and remove the screws attaching the steering jacket tube clamp at the instrument panel and remove the clamp.

(17) Raise the carpet to expose the floor panel.

Move the rubber grommet up on the jacket column.

(18) Remove the screws attaching the rubber dust boot at the firewall. (On Imperial cars, remove the floor inspection panel.)

(19) Loosen the jacket tube clamp at the steering gear housing.

(20) Remove the cotter key and nut at the drag

Fig. 26 — Directional Switch and Lever—

Steering Wheel Removed Fig. 28—Jacket Tube Installation SC-L SC-2, SC-3, SY-1

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-17

C O L U M N G R O U N D STRIP (IF SO EQUIPPED)

Fig. 29

—

Removing the Steering Gear Arm Fig. 30

—

Jacket Tube and Column Tube (Cross Section) link and disconnect the link from the steering arm.

(21) Remove the steering arm nut and washer at the steering gear shaft.

(22) Slide Tool C-3646 up on the steering arm and place the shoe of the puller behind the steering arm

(Fig. 29). Tightening the tool center screw against the gear shaft, will pull the steering arm from the gear shaft.

CAUTION

Do not remove the steering arm by prying with a lever or striking with a hammer as serious steering gear internal damage will result.

(23) Disconnect the hydraulic brake line at the master cylinder and the brake tee and remove the line (not necessary on Imperial cars),

(24) Disconnect the pressure and return hoses at the steering gear. Fasten the ends of the hoses above the oil level in the reservoir. Cap the ends of the hoses. Cap the fittings on the steering gear.

(25) Slide the jacket tube up and off the steering gear through the driver's compartment. Remove the jacket tube upper spring and retainer. Remove the rubber insulator boot and horn ground strap.

(26) Remove the steering tube coupling pin, two plastic inserts, horn ground strap (Fig. 30), rubber insulator and the upper steering tube.

(27) Remove the gear housing to frame bolts, washers and alignment wedge. Slide the steering gear towards the rear of the vehicle and at the same time, raise the lower end of the gear to remove the gear at the engine compartment. (Remove the gear through the driver's compartment on Imperial cars.) thoroughly in a suitable solvent and install the unit in the holding fixture Tool C-3323.

When disassembling, each part should be placed in a suitable solvent, washed, then dried by dry compressed air. Careful handling of the parts must be exercised to avoid the occurrence of nicks and burrs.

Crocus cloth may be used to remove small nicks or burrs provided i t is used carefully, When used on the steering gear valve, use extreme care not to round off the sharp edge portions of the two lands located between the valve drilled holes. The sharp edge portion of these two lands is vitally important to this type of valve.

Remove and discard all " 0 " seal rings and seals.

Use new ones lubricated with petrolatum when reassembling.

(1) Drain the steering gear through the pressure and return connections by turning the steering tube coupling from one extreme of travel to the other.

(2) Remove the coupling pin.

CAUTION

Support the coupling when driving the pin in or out

DISASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR (Fig. 20)

NOTE: Prior to disassembly, clean the gear assembly Fig. 31

—

Removing the Valve Body Assembly (Typical)

MyMopar.com

19-18 STEERING GEAR

• TOOL

POWER TRAIN

HOLDING FIXTURE

JACKET TUBE SUPPORT

JACKET TUBE SUPPORT • ^» 58x39'

58x36

Fig. 32—Removing the Gear Shaft Cover Nut (Typical)

Fig. 34—Removing the Power Train (Typical) to

avoid

damaging

the worm shaft and bearings.

(3)

Remove

the

valve body housing attaching screws and remove the

valve

body and the

three

" 0 " rings

(Fig. 31).

(4)

Remove

the valve lever

and spring. Pry

under the spherical head

with

a screwdriver.

Use care not to

collapse

the slotted end of the valve lever as this will destroy

the

bearing tolerances of the spherical head.

(5)

Loosen

the

gear

shaft

adjusting

screw

locknut

to

facilitate removal and remove the

gear

shaft cover nut

with

Tool C-3633

(Fig. 32).

CAUTION

Oil will

be

expelled when the gear shaft and cover are withdrawn from the housing.

(6) Rotate the worm shaft to the full right turn position, then return the worm shaft to the center of travel. This will place the piston in the center position (Fig. 18). Withdraw the gear shaft until the sector teeth clear the housing. Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and allow the ends of the teeth to rest on the housing.

(7) Turn the worm shaft to full right turn position to compress the power train parts and then remove the coupling.

(8) Remove the steering jacket support nut with

Tool C-3634 (Fig. 33).

(9) Firmly install a suitable drift through the hole in the jacket support to engage the groove in the worm shaft, thereby locking these two parts together (Fig. 34).

(10) While holding the drift, pry on the piston teeth with a screwdriver using the gear shaft as a fulcrum and remove the complete power train.

NOTE: By this

procedure,

the

worm

will be all the way

into the piston and the power train parts will be

resting

against the piston flange. It is imperative that the cylinder head, center race and spacer assembly and the jacket support be maintained in close contact with each other. This

will

prohibit the teflon sealing ring on the worm shaft from becoming disengaged from its mating sleeve retained in the cylinder head. It

will

also eliminate the possibility of the reaction rings • becoming disengaged from their grooves in both the cylinder head and the column jacket support.

(11) Remove the gear shaft assembly from the housing and remove the steering gear housing from the vise.

DISASSEMBLY OF POWER TRAM

(1) Place the power train in a vise equipped with soft jaws to avoid damaging the piston assembly.

CAUTION

Do not turn the

worm

shaft more than one-half turn during disassembly.

SPANNER NUT

(2) Remove the column jacket support tang washer and jacket support.

58x38

(3) Remove the reaction spring, reaction ring and spacer, ferrule " 0 " ring and the center bearing

Fig. 33—Removing the Steering Column Support Nut spacer.

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-19

Fig. 37—Installing the Worm Shaft Upper Seal

Fig. 35—Removing the Worm Shaft Upper Seal

(4) Hold the worm shaft from turning, then turn the nut with sufficient force to release the staked portions from the knurled section and remove the nut.

IS GTE: Wire brush the knurled section to remove chips, then blow out the nut and worm shaft to remove any metal particles.

(5) Remove the upper thrust bearing race (thin) and the upper thrust bearing.

(8) Remove the center bearing race.

(7) Remove the lower thrust bearing and the lower thrust bearing race (thick).

(8) Remove the lower reaction ring and the reaction spring.

(9) Remove the cylinder head assembly.

.NOTE: The worm and piston assembly is furnished as a complete assembly only.

N O T E : The column jacket support and worm shaft upper bearing are serviced as an assembly.

(2) Remove the large " 0 " ring from the groove in the jacket support.

(3) Remove the reaction seal from the groove in the face of the jacket support with air pressure directed into the ferrule chamber (Fig. 36).

(4) Inspect all the grooves for burrs. Make sure the passage from the ferrule chamber to the upper reaction chamber is unobstructed. b. Assembly

(1) Install the worm shaft upper oil seal using

Tool C-3650 (Fig. 37) (with the lip of the seal toward the bearing).

(2) Lubricate and install the reaction seal in the groove in the face of the column jacket support with the flat side of the seal out (Fig. 38).

COLUMN JACSET SUPPORT a. Disassembly

(1) Remove the worm shaft upper seal with puller

Tool C-3638 (Fig. 35).

CYLINDER HEAD a.

Disassembly

J A C K E T T U B E S U P P O R T

5 8 X 4 2

Fig. 36

—

Removing the Reaction Seal from the

Jacket Support

Fig. 38

—

Installing the Reaction Seal into the

Jacket Support

MyMopar.com

19-20 STEERING GEAR

(1) Remove the two " 0 " rings in the two outer grooves in the cylinder head.

(2) Remove the lower reaction " 0 " ring in the groove in the face of the cylinder head. Apply air pressure into the oil hole located in the groove between the two " 0 " ring grooves (Fig. 39).

(3) Inspect the worm shaft seal in the cylinder head counterbore for possible damage; replace the cylinder head seal i f necessary (Fig. 40). -

FERRULE

CYLINDER HEAD

OIL SEAL b.

Assembly

(1) Check the oil passage in the ferrule for obstruction and cylinder head lands for burrs, then lubricate the two large " 0 " rings and install in the grooves on the cylinder head.

(2) Install the cylinder head oil seal, back-up ring and retainer ( i f removed). Make sure the retainer is seated in the groove.

(3) Install the lower reaction seal in the cylinder head groove.

NOTE:

The small

"O"

ring

for

the ferrule groove should be installed after the worm shaft bearing preload has been established; otherwise, the small

"O"

ring will be damaged -by the reaction springs and the center bearing spacer.

STH21ING VALVE ASSEMBLY (Fig. 41) a. Disassembly

(1) Remove the two screws attaching the pressure control valve body to the steering valve body and remove the back pressure control valve assembly.

(2) Compress the pressure control valve spring and remove the retainer pin, spring, pressure control valve piston and back pressure valve cushion spring.

" O " RINGS CYLINDER HEAD

9 .

REACTION "O" RING

5 8 x 4 7

Fig. 40

—

Removing the Cylinder Head Seal

(3) Carefully shake out the steering valve piston.

Inspect the valve for nicks, burrs and scores.

NOTE: If the steering valve or valve housing is damaged, replace the valve and housing assembly.

Do not remove the valve end plug unless inspection indicates a leak at the seal.

Small burrs and nicks may be removed with crocus cloth, i f extreme care is used not to round off the sharp edge portion of the valve. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to the operation of this valve.

Clean the valve bodies and valve pistons thoroughly in clean solvent. Blow out all passages and blow parts dry with dry compressed air. Lubricate pistons and bores with MoPar No. 2084329 Power

Steering Fluid. b. Assembly

(1) Install the steering spool valve into the valve housing so that the valve lever hole is aligned with

CONTROL

VALVE

BODY

-SCREW " O " RINGS

" O " RINGS

" O " RING

CYLINDER HEAD

OIL SEAL

A

REACTION " O " RING

O" RING

FERRULE

58x46

Fig.

39 —Removing the Reaction Ring Seal from the

Cylinder Head

SPRING \ SPRING

PISTON

STEERING

VALVE BODY

FITTING

' GASKET

SPOOL VALVE

SCREW

GASKET-

58x48A END PLUG

Fig. 41

—

Control Valve (Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-21 the lever opening in the valve body..The valve must be perfectly free in the valve body without sticking or binding,

(2) Install a new seal and end plug ( i f removed).

Tighten the plug to 25 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the back pressure valve cushion spring in the back pressure valve body. Lubricate the back pressure valve piston and insert the nose end of the piston into the body bore. Check for smooth operation. Be sure the lower spring is not cocked.

(4) Install the pressure control valve spring on top of the valve piston. Compress the spring and install the retaining pin.

(5) Install the two "0" rings and assemble the back pressure valve assembly to the control valve body. Tighten the two attaching screws to 10 footpounds torque.

(6) I f the pressure inlet fitting has been removed, replace the copper gasket and retighten the fitting to

30 foot-pounds torque.

GEAR SHAFT a. Disassembly

(1) Remove the gear shaft adjusting screw lock nut and remove the small " 0 " ring from the top of the cover and large

"0"

ring from the base of the cover (Fig. 42).

NOTE: The needle bearing in the cover consists of

51 needles

originally retained in the cover by heavy grease

to facilitate assembly. This grease, however, will

have

become dissolved in the hot hydraulic fluid with the unit in operation.

CAUTION

If for

some reason, the cover assembly must be removed from the gear shaft, the 51 needles will fall out of

the cover. If any needles (51) become lost, it will be necessary to replace the cover and bearing as an assembly. Use wheel bearing grease to retain the needle rollers in the cover when reassembling.

STEERING

CROSS

SHAFT

L O C K R I N G

O I L S E A L

A D J U S T I N G S C R E W

L O C K N U T

" O " R I N G

\ j

A D J U S T I N G C O V E R N U T ,

\

;

- I

" O " R I N G - _

\ \

BEARINGS

58x283

Fig.

42 — Steering Gear Housing (Sectional View)

STEERING GEAR HOUSING

S P A C I N G W A S H E R a. Disassembly

(1) Attach the steering gear housing in the holding fixture Tool C-3323 and place the holding fixture in a vise.

(2) Remove the oil seal snap ring with pliers Tool

C-3229 and remove the seal back-up washer.

NOTE: The gear shaft oil seal should be removed with the gear shaft installed in the housing.

(3) Remove the gear shaft oil seal with adapter

SP-3056 and Tool C-3350 (Fig. 43) as follows: a. Slide the threaded position of adapter SP-3056 over the end of the gear shaft. b. Install the nut section of Tool C-3350 on the shaft. c. Maintain pressure on adapter SP-3056 with the nut of Tool C-3350 while turning the adapter into the seal until it has bottomed in the seal. d. Install the two half-rings and retainer over both portions of the tool. e. Turn the nut counter-clockwise; as the hexagon b. Assembly

(1) Lubricate a new small "0" ring and install i t over the adjusting screw into position at the top of the gear shaft cover.

(2) Lubricate an "0" ring and gear shaft cover with petrolatum and install the "0" ring in the cover groove.

(3) Install the adjusting screw lock nut, but do not tighten.

58x49

Fig. 43—Removing the Gear Shaft Oil Seal

MyMopar.com

19-22 STEERING GEAR

Fig. 44—Removing the Housing Lower Bushing nut is removed from the shaft, the seal will be pulled from the housing.

(4) I f necessary to remove the housing bearings, use puller Tool C-3332 with adapter SP-3062 (Fig.

44) as follows: a. Engage the jaws behind the bearing, hold the center screw while turning the puller nut to pull the lower (outer) needle bearing out of the housing. b. Use puller, Tool C-3332, to remove the upper

(Inner) needle bearing. b. Assembly

(1) Install the gear shaft bearings into the housing with driver, Tool C-3333 (lettered end of the bearings against the driver tool). Drive the bearings to Vs inch below the edge of the counterbore.

(2) Install the gear shaft oil seal into the housing

(lip of seal toward needle bearing) with adapter SP-

3052 and Tool C-3350 as follows : a. Place the adapter against the seal and thread the tool nut on the threaded end of the gear shaft

(Fig. 45). b. Turn the tool nut on the gear shaft until the shoulder of the adapter tool contacts the housing. c. Remove the tools and install the oil seal back-up washer and snap ring. install a new cast iron ring with Tool C-3676, Piston

Ring Remover and Installer, as follows: a. Position Tool C-3676 in the vise (Fig. 47). b. Slide a new piston ring into place in the piston groove. c. Place the piston and ring assembly in Tool

C-3676 with the lower part of the piston and the ring resting on the land of tool. d. Press down on the piston to bottom the piston ring in the piston groove, forcing the open ends of the ring out for ease of locking the ring. The ring should be positioned with ring hooks in line with the ball guide plug.

(1) Place the piston assembly in a vertical position (worm shaft up) in a vise equipped with soft jaws.

(2) Slide the cylinder head assembly (ferrule up) on the worm shaft, inspect the worm shaft seal ring making sure the gap is closed to avoid damaging the ring as the cylinder head moves against the piston flange.

(3) Lubricate with No. 2084329 Power Steering

Fluid and install the following parts in order : a. Lower thrust bearing race (thick). b. Lower thrust bearing. c. Lower reaction spring (with small hole over the ferrule). d. Lower reaction ring (flange up so the ring protrudes through the reaction spring and contacts the reaction " 0 " ring in the cylinder head). e. Center bearing race. f. Upper thrust bearing. g. Upper thrust bearing race (thin). h. Start the worm shaft thrust bearing nut (do not tighten).

(4) Turn the worm shaft counter-clockwise one-

CAUTION

Make sure the snap ring Is properly seated in the groove in the housing (Fig. 42).

ASSEMBLY OF POWER TRAIN (Figs. 18 and 46.)

I f the power piston ring was removed at disassembly, inspect the condition of the rubber sealing ring and Fig. 45—Installing the Gear Shaft Oil Seal

MyMopar.com

SNAP R I N G

W O R M W

7

P I S T O N

R I N G

RING

R I N G

R I N G

RETAINER

" O '

1

R I N G

SEAL

SEAL

WASHER

NUT

C O U P L I N G

V A L V E ASSEMBLY

Fig. 46—Steering Gear (Disassembled View)

SUPPORT, W/ B E A R I N G

60x18

MyMopar.com

19-24 STEERING GEAR

Fig.

47—Removing the Piston Ring

Fig. 49—Staking the Worm Shaft Bearing Adjusting Nut half turn. Hold the worm shaft in this position while tightening the unit to 50 foot-pounds torque to prestretch the worm shaft threads.

CAUTION

If the worm shaft is turned more than one-half turn, the cylinder head sleeve will clear the oil seal ring on the worm shaft. Always position the worm shaft oil seal ring before bottoming the cylinder head against the piston top flange to avoid damaging the oil seal ring.

(5) Loosen the adjusting nut. Place several rounds of cord around the center bearing race (Fig. 48).

Make a loop in one end of the cord and hook the loop of a distributor breaker arm spring scale Tool MTU-

36 in the cord loop. Pulling the cord will cause the bearing race to rotate. Retighten the worm bearing adjusting nut while pulling on the cord with the scale. I f the adjusting nut is tightened properly,

Fig. 48—Adjusting the Center Bearing Pack Preload reading on the scale should be 8 to 16 ounces (12 ounces preferred) while the bearing race is turning.

CAUTION

Place a support under the adjusting nut during the staking operation to avoid brinelling the piston and the worm bearings.

(6) Stake the upper part of the worm shaft adjusting nut into the knurled area of the shaft as follows: a. Hold a

14

inch flat end punch on the center line of the worm shaft and perpendicular to the worm shaft and at a slight angle to the nut flange (Fig.

49). b. Strike the punch a sharp blow with a hammer and recheck the pre-load.

NOTE: If the adjusting nut moved during the staking operation, it can be corrected by striking the nut a glancing blow in the direction required to regain proper pre-load. c. After the proper pre-load, stake the nut at three more locations 90 degrees apart around the upper part of the nut. d. To test the total staking, tighten the nut to 20 foot-pounds torque in either direction. I f the nut does not move, the staking operation is satisfactory.

IMPORTANT

Recheck the pre-load adjustment, the torque of 8-16 inch ounces must remain after the adjusting nut is securely locked.

(7) Install the center bearing spacer assembly over the center bearing race and engage the dowel pin of the spacer in the slot of the race and the slot of the spacer entered over the cylinder head ferrule.

MyMopar.com

STEERING GEAR 19-25

NOTE: This will align the valve lever hole in the center bearing race with the valve lever hole in the center bearing spacer assembly.

(8) Install the upper reaction ring on the center bearing spacer with the flange down against the spacer.

(9) Install the upper reaction pressure spring over the reaction ring with the cylinder head ferrule through the hole in the spring.

(10) Install the reaction ring (without flange) inside the upper reaction ring.

(11) Lubricate the ferrule " 0 " ring with petrolatum and install it in the groove on the cylinder ferrule.

(12) Install the jacket support over the worm shaft, carefully engaging the cylinder head ferrule and the " 0 " ring and making sure the reaction rings enter the circular groove in the jacket support.

CAUTION

Form a ,0015 inch feeler gauge into a coil and insert with the jacket support to protect the lip of the seal when installing over the worm shaft serrations.

(13) Align the parts on the power train so that the valve lever hole in the center bearing spacer assembly is 90 degrees counter-clockwise from the piston rack teeth and hold all the parts together. tighten nut 110 to 200 foot-pounds torque with Tool

C-3634 (Fig. 32).

(4) Set the piston at the center of travel and install the gear shaft and cover assembly so that the sector teeth index with the piston rack teeth. Make sure the "O" ring is properly positioned in the face of the cover (Fig. 42).

(5) Install the cover spanner nut and tighten the nut 110 to 200 foot-pounds torque with Tool C-3633

(Fig. 32).

(6) Install the valve lever (double bearing end first) into the center bearing spacer through the hole in the steering housing so that the slots in the valve lever are parallel to the worm shaft in order to engage the anti-rotation pin in the center bearing race

(Fig. 16).

NOTE: Turn the worm until the piston bottoms in both directions and