Chrysler Imperial 1964 Workshop Manual

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2 INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

VY-1 IMPERIAL C R O W N T W O - D O O R HARDTOP

V C - 3 N E W Y O R K E R F O U R - D O O R H A R D T O P

V C - 2 - 3 0 0 F O U R - D O O R H A R D T O P

Fig. 1—1964 Imperial and Chrysler Models

64 x 552

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INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS 3

FACTORY CONTACT

The following outline of the proper procedure to use in obtaining assistance or advice on any matter applying to Service will insure your inquiries receiving prompt attention and handling. Make certain those members of your organization who might have the occasion to contact either your Regional Office or the factory, are thoroughly familiar with this procedure. All matters pertaining in any way to Warranty Service Claims, or of a technical nature, should be handled by you direct with your Regional Service Office. When in doubt as to the proper procedure to follow in the handling of a claim or complaint, prompt results can be obtained through a letter, telegram or phone call to your Regional Service Office—making certain to include all necessary information. If the aid of a Service Representative is necessary, the Regional Office will arrange for his contact as promptly as circumstances permit.

Letters or telegrams to the Regional Service Office should be confined to one subject only and should include the following information:

Car Serial Number Owner's Name

Date of Sale Mileage

Complete description of difficulty, corrective action taken, your recommendations as to what should be done and the reason for so doing.

Include Paint and Trim Code Numbers where finish, upholstery, body or sheet metal is involved, and estimate of net cost of repairs.

C H R Y S L E R - P L Y M O U T H D I V I S I O N

With the exception of orders for parts or parts literature, all requests for Imperial, Chrysler,

Plymouth or Valiant Service literature such as Service Bulletins, Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, Time Schedules, W.S.C's or other Chrysler—Plymouth Division Service literature, should be addressed to:

(Letters) (Telegrams)

Chrysler Corporation Chrysler - Plymouth. Division

Chrysler - Plymouth Division Attention,

Service Department (Name of person to whom sent)

P.O. Box 1658 WUX

Detroit 31, Michigan Detroit, Michigan

(Phone) 822-4700

NOTE: Please make certain to include the Code WUX on all telegrams to the Chrysler-Plymouth

Division as this insures delivery direct to our Teleprint Room thus eliminating delay.

MASTER TECHNICIANS SERVICE CONFERENCE

All correspondence concerning enrollment in the M.T.S.C. Program, issuance of awards, orders for additional material, the return of reports, or any other matters relating to this program, should be addressed to:

Master Technician Service Conference

Chrysler Corporation Training Center

P.O. Box 2119

Detroit 31, Michigan

(Phone) 539-3000

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4 INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

PARTS D I V I S I O N

G e n e r a l

A L L orders for parts or accessories, emergency or otherwise, should be forwarded direct to your source of supply or to the parts plant listed below serving the area in which you are located.

To insure your receiving the parts required by you more promptly, close attention should be given to the procedure listed under "Ordering Information" and "Your Parts Orders" in the introductory front part of all MoPar Parts Lists and Price Lists. Particularly where parts are ordered for a specific car, it is very essential that your order include the car serial and engine numbers, and in the case of body parts, the body number.

CENTER LINE, M I C H I G A N S A N L E A N D R O , C A L I F O R N I A

Mail Address: Mail Address:

Chrysler Motors Corporation Chrysler Motors Corporation

P.O. Box 300 1955 Davis Street

Center Line, Michigan San Leandro, California

Telephone - 539-300 Telephone - Neptune 8-6200

N E W A R K , DELAWARE A T L A N T A , G E O R G I A

Mail Address: Mail Address:

Chrysler Motors Corporation Chrysler Motors Corporation

South College Avenue 1150 Murphy Avenue, S. W.

P.O. Box 120 P. O. Box 10786

Newark, Delaware Atlanta 10, Georgia

Telephone - Endicott 8-2521 Telephone - Plaza 5-2531

K A N S A S C I T Y , K A N S A S

Mail Address:

Chrysler Motors Corporation

Funston & Chrysler Roads

Kansas City 15, Kansas

Telephone - Fairfax 1-3300

Parts Division Literature

Request for Parts Division literature such as Parts Books, Parts Price Lists, Parts Bulletins, etc., should be forwarded direct to: Chrysler Motors Corporation

P.O. Box 1718

Detroit 31, Michigan

Attention: Parts Catalog Department

S h o r t a g e of Accessories or O t h e r Equipment on N e w C a r s

Before placing an order for missing accessories, other parts or equipment on new cars received, examine the vehicle for the presence of a "back order" notice, which if present, will be found attached to the bracket for the inside rear view mirror. Such back-ordered short items will be shipped from the assembly plant as soon as stock is available, and should not be ordered from the Parts Division.

E m e r g e n c y O r d e r s — C a r D o w n or Truck D o w n

1. When parts are not immediately available from your local MoPar source of supply, TELEPHONE,

TELEGRAPH or AIR MAIL your order to: a. PARTS PLANT SERVING YOUR AREA for all parts coded "V", "F", "M" and "P". Use Parts

Order Form No. 81-670-0139. b. FACTORY PARTS PLANT AT CENTER LINE for all parts coded "D" . . . and orders for "D" parts combined with "V", "F", "M" and "P" parts required for an individual service job. Use

Parts Order Form No. 81-670-0190 (Supersedes D-16712). c. Quantities ordered should not exceed actual requirements for vehicle out of service.

Always supply car, vehicle serial number and Truck Parts Availability Number (1960-62 Models) in ad* dition to Vehicle Number.

2. Identify orders as "Emergency Car Down" or "Emergency Truck Down".

3. List part numbers in numerical sequence. Use your dealer code number on all orders. Assign only one order number to the order regardless of size.

4. "V", "F", "M" and "P" parts will be shipped transportation charges collect. "D" parts will be shipped transportation prepaid when "Normal Prepaid Transportation" is specified; shipped collect when "Premium Transportation" is specified.

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Chrysler Newport

Chrysler 300

Chrysler New Yorker

(8 -Cyl.) VC -1

(8 -Cyl.) VC -2

(8 -Cyl.) VC -3

INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS 5

1 9 6 4 MODELS

Chrysler 300-K

Imperial Crown

Imperial LeBaron

(8 -Cyl.) VC -4

(8 -Cyi.) VY -1

(8 -Cyl.) VY -1

VEHICLE A N D ENGINE NUMBERS

V E H I C L E NUMBER - The vehicle number (Serial

Number) is located on a metal plate attached to the left front door body hinge pillar, as shown in Figure

All vehicle numbers contain ten digits. The vehicle number is a code which tells the make of vehicle (1st digit), model of vehicle (2nd digit), year built (3rd digit), assembly plant (4th digit), and vehicle sequence number (last six digits) starting with 100001.

1st Digit

Make of Vehicle

8. Chrysler o | m p e r

2 a

2nd Digit

Model of Vehicle

Chrysler

1. Newport

300

New Yorker

5. Newport (Town and Country)

7. New Yorker (Town and Country)

8. New Yorker—Salon

Imperial

Crown

3. LeBaron

Fig.

2—-Vehicle Number

3rd Digit 4th Digit

Year Built Assembly Plant

1964 3. Chrysler Jefferson-Detroit

ENGINE NUMBER - The engine number is stamped on the boss on the top side of the cylinder block just back of the water pump, as shown in Figure 3.

Fig, 3 —Engine Number

BODY P L A T E NUMBER - The body plate number is located on the engine side of the cowl just above the master cylinder on Imperial Models, as shown in

Figure 4. On Chrysler Models, the plate is located above the top hinge of the drivers side door.

Fig. 4—Body Number

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6 INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Item Body Style

GENERAL DATA A N D SPECIFICATIONS

Starting Vehicle Numbers

VC-1 VC-2

*VC-4

1964 Models

VC-3 VY-1

Four Door Sedan 81 43 100001

Town and Country 85 43 100001

Four Door Hard Top 82 43 100001

Two Door Hard Top 84 43 100001

Four Door Sedan

Town and Country

83 43 100001

87 43 100001

Four Door Hard Top 92 43 100001

Four Door Hard Top 93 43 100001

Newport

300

C-300K

New Yorker

Imp. Crown

Imp. LeBaron

122" 122" 129" Wheelbase All Models

Tread (Front) All Models

Tread (Rear) All Models

61.0"

59.7"

122"

61.0"

59.7"

61.0"

59.7"

61.8"

61.7"

Length with

Bumper

All Models except

Town and Country

215.3"

219.4"

215.3" 215.3"

219.4"

227.8"

Width with

Bumper All Models

Rear Axle with

3- Speed or

4- Speed Manual

Transmission All Models

Rear Axle with

Torque Flite

Transmission All Models

Tire Size All Models except

Town and Country

C-300K

80.0"

3.23"

2.76"

8.00x14

80.0"

3.23"

8.00x14

80.0"

2.76"

8.50x14

80.0"

2.93"

8.20x15

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-1

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART

N O R M A L S E R V I C E

E n g i n e O i l F i l t e r E l e m e n t ( R e p l a c e ) e v e r y 6 months t o c o i n c i d e w i t h a n o i l c h a n g e .

E n g i n e C o o l a n t — C h e c k l e v e l a n d / o r A n t i - F r e e z e e v e r y 2 m o n t h s . C o o l i n g s y s t e m p r e s s u r e , 1 4 p o u n d s ; w i t h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g , 1 6 p o u n d s .

B a t t e r y ( C h e c k L e v e l ) e v e r y 2 m o n t h s . —

P S F P o w e r S t e e r i n g R e s e r v o i r ( C h e c k L e v e l ) . Fill t o t h e b o t t o m o f t h e filler n e c k ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

D i s t r i b u t o r ( E v e r y 1 0 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ) A p p l y t o c a m a n d r u b b i n g b l o c k .

D i s t r i b u t o r O i l C u p a n d W i c k u n d e r R o t o r

( E v e r y 1 0 , 0 0 0 m i l e s . )

E O

C r a n k c a s e D i p s t i c k . . . C h e c k l e v e l w h e n r e f u e l i n g .

E n g i n e O i l ( C h a n g e ) e v e r y 2 m o n t h s ( n o t t o e x c e e d 4 , 0 0 0 m i l e s ) .

C a r b u r e t o r F u e l F i l t e r ( R e p l a c e ) 1 6 , 0 0 0 M i l e s o r o n c e e a c h y e a r .

M u l i i g r a d e s

S A E 1 0 W - 3 0 S u i t a b l e y e a r a r o u n d f o r m o s t p a r t s o f t h e c o u n t r y m a y b e u s e d a s l o w a s - 1 0 ° F .

S A E 5 W - 2 0 R e c o m m e n d e d i f t e m p e r a t u r e s a r e c o n s i s t e n t l y b e l o w - f - 1 0 ° F .

S A E 3 0

S A E 1 0 W

S A E 5 W

S i n g l e g r a d e s

W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e s a r e c o n s i s t e n t l y a b o v e 3 2 ° F .

W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e r a n g e s a v e r a g e b e t w e e n 3 2 a n d

—

1 0 ° F .

W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e s a r e c o n s i s t e n t l y b e l o w - 1 0 ° F .

M a n i f o l d H e a t C o n t r o l V a l v e t r e a t w i t h s o l v e n t e v e r y 6 m o n t h s .

C a r b u r e t o r C h o k e L i n k a g e a n d S h a f t

( E v e r y 6 months) A p p l y t o c h o k e s h a f t t h r o u g h t h e a i r h o r n .

C r a n k c a s e V e n t i l a t o r V a l v e ( I n s p e c t ) E v e r y 6

M o n t h s . ( R e p l a c e ) O n c e a Y e a r .

A u t o m a t i c T r a n s m i s s i o n e v e r y 6 m o n t h s . C h e c k l e v e l , e n g i n e i d l i n g a n d t h o r o u g h l y w a r m , N E U -

T R A L p o s i t i o n . T o o v e r c o m e d i f f i c u l t s t a r t i n g b e l o w

— 1 0 ° , r e p l a c e V/i pints fluid w i t h k e r o s e n e . D o n o t d i l u t e m o r e t h a n o n c e d u r i n g a n y o n e s e a s o n .

E n g i n e T u n e - u p e v e r y 1 0 , 0 0 0 M i l e s o r o n c e e a c h y e a r .

C a r b u r e t o r A i r F i l t e r ( C l e a n e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

N o t t o e x c e e d 8 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ( R e p l a c e E l e m e n t )

E v e r y 2 y e a r s , n o t t o e x c e e d 3 2 , 0 0 0 m i l e s .

B o d y H a r d w a r e ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

D o o r a n d T a i l g a t e H i n g e s a n d R o t o r s .

H T F B r a k e M a s t e r C y l i n d e r ( C h e c k L e v e l ) Fill t o V 4 i n c h b e l o w t o p o f r e s e r v o i r ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

M M L F r o n t S u s p e n s i o n B a l l J o i n t s ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

I n s p e c t s e a l s f o r d a m a g e , r e p l a c e i f n e c e s s a r y .

A f t e r r e p l a c i n g s e a l o r w h e n r e l u b r i c a t i n g , r e m o v e p l u g , u s e p r o p e r a d a p t e r . I n s t a l l p l u g .

( E v e r y 3 2 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ) R e l u b r i c a t e u s i n g s p e c i a l a d a p t e r . Fill until g r e a s e flows f r o m u p p e r b a l l j o i n t b l e e d h o l e s o r l o w e r joint s e a l l o w e r l i p .

D o n o t r u p t u r e s e a l s . R e i n s t a l l p l u g .

S t r i k e r P l a t e s — L o c k C y l i n d e r s

H o o d H i n g e s a n d L o c k s — F u e l T a n k A c c e s s

C o v e r a n d H i n g e .

D e c k L i d L a t c h .

F r o n t B r a k e A s s e m b l i e s a n d F r o n t W h e e l

B e a r i n g s . ( I n s p e c t ) E v e r y 2 0 , 0 0 0 m i l e s o r e v e r y t w o y e a r s .

T i g h t e n f r o n t w h e e l a d j u s t i n g n u t t o 9 0 i n . - l b . , p o s i t i o n l o c k nut o v e r a d j u s t i n g nut s o t h a t o n e s e t o f s l o t s o n l o c k n u t a l i g n s w i t h d r i l l e d h o l e in a x l e s p i n d l e . B a c k o f f a d j u s t i n g a n d l o c k nuts o n e s l o t a n d i n s t a l l c o t t e r k e y .

M M L S t e e r i n g L i n k a g e P i v o t S e a l s ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

I n s p e c t s e a l s f o r d a m a g e , r e p l a c e i f d a m a g e d o r w o r n . R e l u b r i c a t e e v e r y 3 2 , 0 0 0 m i l e s .

M M L U n i v e r s a l J o i n t s ( e v e r y 6 months) i n s p e c t s e a l s f o r l e a k a g e . R e l u b r i c a t e a s n e c e s s a r y . I n s p e c t c e n t e r p r o p e l l e r s h a f t b e a r i n g a n d m o u n t .

T I R E S . . . . . . P r e s s u r e

R e a r

1 5

. 2 4 2 4

R o t a t e T i r e s u s i n g s p a r e e v e r y 5 , 0 0 0 M i l e s .

M P U n i v e r s a l J o i n t S p l i n e e v e r y 6 m o n t h s i n s p e c t f o r l e a k a g e . R e l u b r i c a t e a s n e c e s s a r y .

A b o v e - 1 0 ° , 8 0 , - 1 0 ° , 7 5 . D i s a s s e m b l e , fill h a l f - f u l l .

M P R e a r A x l e a n d S u r e - G r i p ( C h e c k L e v e l ) e v e r y 6 m o n t h s . A b o v e — 1 0 ° , 9 0 ; a s l o w a s — 3 0 ° , 8 0 ;

— 3 0 ° , 7 5 . M a i n t a i n l e v e l Vi i n c h b e l o w fill p l u c i h o l e . M H L c a n a l s o b e u s e d o n a l l a x l e s .

R e a r A x l e

C A P A C I T I E S

E n g i n e O i l 5 q t s .

( A d d 1 q t . w h e n r e p l a c i n g filter e l e m e n t )

C o o l i n g S y s t e m

( A d d 1 q t . f o r h e a t e r )

T r a n s m i s s i o n ( r e f i l l )

T o r q u e F l i t e

1 6 q t s .

A Prepacked bearing

# Cooling system drain

4 p t s .

2 0 p t s .

IMPERIAL

6 4 x 6 6 7

Fig. 1—Imperial V-8 Lubrication Chart

K E Y T O L U B R I C A N T S

A u t o m a t i c T r a n s . F l u i d T y p e " A " A A

S u f f i x " A "

A M G A u t o m o t i v e M u l t i - P u r p o s e G r e a s e

C L C h a s s i s L u b r i c a n t

D C L

E O

H T F

M o p a r C a m L u b r i c a n t

E n g i n e O i l

H i g h T e m p e r a t u r e B r a k e F l u i d

M C L

S p e e d o m e t e r C a b l e L u b r i c a n t

M H L M o P a r H y p o i d L u b r i c a n t

M L L u b r i p l a t e

M M L M o P a r M u l t i - M i l e a g e L u b r i c a n t

M P M u l t i - P u r p o s e G e a r L u b r i c a n t

D P O D r i p l e s s P e n e t r a t i n g O i l

P S F P o w e r S t e e r i n g F l u i d

S M a n i f o l d H e a t C o n t r o l V a l v e S o l v e n t

S L S t a i n l e s s S t i c k L u b r i c a n t

W B W h e e l B e a r i n g L u b r i c a n t — M e d i u m

M M C M o p a r C a r b u r e t o r C l e a n e r

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0-2 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART

N O R M A L S E R V I C E

3 0 0 , N e w p o r t , N e w Y o r k e r

E n g i n e O i l F i l t e r E l e m e n t ( R e p l a c e ) e v e r y 6 m o n t h s t o c o i n c i d e w i t h a n o i l c h a n g e .

B a t t e r y ( C h e c k L e v e l ) e v e r y 2 m o n t h s .

P S F P o w e r S t e e r i n g R e s e r v o i r ( C h e c k L e v e l ) . Fill t o t h e b o t t o m o f t h e f i l l e r n e c k ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

D C L D i s t r i b u t o r ( E v e r y 1 0 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ) A p p l y t o c a m a n d r u b b i n g b l o c k .

E O D i s t r i b u t o r O i l C u p a n d W i c k u n d e r R o t o r

( E v e r y 1 0 , 0 0 0 m i l e s . ) C r a n k c a s e D i p s t i c k . . . C h e c k l e v e l w h e n r e f u e l i n g .

C a r b u r e t o r F u e l F i l t e r ( R e p l a c e ) 1 6 , 0 0 0 M i l e s o r o n c e e a c h y e a r .

E O f n g i n e O i l ( C h a n g e ) e v e r y 2 m o n t h s ( n o t t o e x c e e d 4 , 0 0 0 m i l e s ) . \

M u l t i g r a d e s

S A E 1 0 W - 3 0 S u i t a b l e y e a r a r o u n d f o r m o s t p a r t s o f t h e c o u n t r y m a y b e u s e d a s l o w a s - 1 0 ° F .

S A E 5 W - 2 0 R e c o m m e n d e d i f t e m p e r a t u r e s a r e c o n s i s t e n t l y b e l o w + 1 0 ° F .

S i n g l e g r a d e s

$ A E 3 0 W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e s a r e c o n s i s t e n t l y a b o v e 3 2 ° F .

S A E 1 0 W W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e r a n g e s a v e r a g e b e t w e e n 3 2 a n d — 1 0 ° F .

S A E 5 W W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e s a r e c o n s i s t e n t l y b e l o w - 1 0 ° F .

C a r b u r e t o r A i r F i l t e r ( C l e a n e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

N o t t o e x c e e d 8 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ( R e p l a c e E l e m e n t )

E v e r y 2 y e a r s , n o t t o e x c e e d 3 2 , 0 0 0 m i l e s .

M P M a n u a l S t e e r i n g G e a r ( C h e c k L e v e l ) A b o v e — 3 0 ° ,

8 0 ; b e l o w — 3 0 ° , 7 5 ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

H T F B r a k e M a s t e r C y l i n d e r ( C h e c k L e v e l ) Fill t o V

A i n c h b e l o w t o p o f r e s e r v o i r ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

S M a n i f o l d H e a t C o n t r o l V a l v e t r e a t w i t h s o l v e n t e v e r y 6 m o n t h s .

M C C C a r b u r e t o r C h o k e L i n k a g e a n d S h a f t

( E v e r y 6 months) A p p l y t o c h o k e s h a f t t h r o u g h t h e a i r h o r n .

C r a n k c a s e V e n t i l a t o r V a l v e ( I n s p e c t ) E v e r y 6

M o n t h s . ( R e p l a c e ) O n c e a Y e a r .

A A A u t o m a t i c T r a n s m i s s i o n e v e r y 6 m o n t h s . C h e c k l e v e l , e n g i n e i d l i n g a n d t h o r o u g h l y w a r m , N E U -

T R A L p o s i t i o n . T o o v e r c o m e d i f f i c u l t s t a r t i n g b e l o w

— 1 0 ° , r e p l a c e V/i p i n t s fluid w i t h k e r o s e n e . D o n o t d i l u t e m o r e t h a n o n c e d u r i n g a n y o n e s e a s o n .

E n g i n e T u n e - u p e v e r y 1 0 , 0 0 0 M i l e s o r o n c e e a c h y e a r .

B o d y H a r d w a r e ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

D P O D o o r a n d T a i l g a t e H i n g e s a n d R o t o r s .

S L S t r i k e r P l a t e s a n d T o r s i o n B a r R o l l e r C a m s .

M L H o o d H i n g e s a n d L o c k s — F u e l T a n k C o v e r

M M L F r o n t S u s p e n s i o n B a l l J o i n t s ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

I n s p e c t s e a l s f o r d a m a g e , r e p l a c e i f n e c e s s a r y .

A f t e r r e p l a c i n g s e a l o r w h e n r e l u b r i c a t i n g , r e m o v e p l u g , u s e p r o p e r a d a p t e r . I n s t a l l p l u g .

( E v e r y 3 2 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ) R e l u b r i c a t e u s i n g s p e c i a l a d a p t e r . Fill until g r e a s e f l o w s f r o m u p p e r b a l l folnt b l e e d h o l e s o r l o w e r joint s e a l l o w e r l i p ^

D o n o t r u p t u r e s e a l s . R e i n s t a l l p l u g .

M M L S t e e r i n g L i n k a g e P i v o t S e a l s ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) .

I n s p e c t s e a l s f o r d a m a g e , r e p l a c e i f d a m a g e d o r w o r n . R e l u b r i c a t e e v e r y 3 2 , 0 0 0 m i l e s .

A M G C l u t c h T o r q u e S h a f t ( e v e r y 3 2 , 0 0 0 M i l e s ) .

R e l u b r i c a t e s h a f t b e a r i n g s a n d r e l e a s e f o r k .

A M G C l u t c h R e l e a s e F o r k S w i v e l C l e a n s w i v e l a n d s w i v e l s o c k e t a n d C l u t c h r e l e a s e f o r k a n d l u b r i c a t e w h e n d i s a s s e m b l i n g .

E O D e c k L i d L a t c h .

W B F r o n t B r a k e A s s e m b l i e s a n d F r o n t W h e e l o r B e a r i n g s . ( I n s p e c t ) E v e r y 2 0 , 0 0 0 m i l e s o r e v e r y

A M G t w o y e a r s .

T i g h t e n f r o n t w h e e l a d j u s t i n g n u t t o 9 0 i n . - l b . , p o s i t i o n l o c k nut o v e r a d j u s t i n g n u t s o t h a t o n e s e t o f slots o n l o c k n u t a l i g n s w i t h d r i l l e d h o l e in a x l e s p i n d l e . B a c k o f f a d j u s t i n g a n d l o c k nuts o n e slot a n d i n s t a l l c o t t e r k e y .

T I R E S P r e s s u r e F r o n t R e a r

8 . 0 0 x 1 4 N e w p o r t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 4 2 2

8 . 0 0 x 1 4 3 0 0 . . 2 4 2 2

8 . 0 0 x 1 4 N e w p o r t , T o w n & C o u n t r y . . . . 2 4 2 6 *

8 . 5 0 x 1 4 N e w Y o r k e r 2 4 2 2

9 . 0 0 x 1 4 N e w Y o r k e r S a l o n . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 2 0

8 . 5 0 x 1 4 N e w Y o r k e r , T o w n & C o u n t r y . ' . 2 4 2 6 *

^ I n c r e a s e t h e r e a r t i r e p r e s s u r e 4 l b s . w h e n f u l l y l o a d e d .

A A M a n u a l T r a n s m i s s i o n ( C h e c k L e v e l ) e v e r y 6 m o n t h s . M a i n t a i n l e v e l t o fill p l u g h o l e . U s e M P f o r H e a v y D u t y M a n u a l T r a n s m i s s i o n .

E O G e a r s h i f t L o v e r ( e v e r y 6 m o n t h s ) . . . R e m o v e r u b b e r b o o t f r o m f l o o r p a n e l , a p p l y l u b r i c a n t t o p i v o t p o i n t s a n d y o k e s e l e c t o r m e c h a n i s m .

M M L U n i v e r s a l J o i n t s e v e r y 6 m o n t h s , i n s p e c t s e a l s f o r l e a k a g e . R e l u b r i c a t e a s n e c e s s a r y .

M P R e a r A x l e a n d S u r e - G r i p ( C h e c k L e v e l ) e v e r y

6 m o n t h s . A b o v e — 1 0 ° , 9 0 ; a s l o w a s — 3 0 ° , 8 0 ; b e l o w — 3 0 ° , 7 5 . M a i n t a i n l e v e l ft'inch b e l o w fill p l u g h o l e . ( M H L c a n a l s o b e u s e d o n a l l a x l e s . )

• Position for lift adapter

A Prepacked bearing

# Cooling system drain

R o t a t e T i r e s u s i n g s p a r e e v e r y 5 , 0 0 0 M i l e s .

E n g i n e O i l

C A P A C I T I E S

C o q l i n g S y s t e m

( A d d 1 q t . f o r h e a t e r )

R e a r A x l e

T r a n s m i s s i o n ( r e f i l l )

T o r q u e F l i t e

M a n u a l — 3 - S p e e d

4 - S p e e d

5 q t s .

1 6 q t s .

4 p t s .

2 0 p t s .

Vi p t s .

7 p t s .

CHRYSLER

6 4 x 6 6 6

Fig. 2—

Chrysler V - 8 Lubrication Chart

K E Y T O L U B R I C A N T S

A u t o m a t i c T r a n s . F l u i d T y p e " A "

S u f f i x " A "

A M G A u t o m o t i v e M u l t i - P u r p o s e G r e a s e

C L C h a s s i s L u b r i c a n t

M o p a r C a m L u b r i c a n t

E n g i n e O i l

H i g h T e m p e r a t u r e B r a k e F l u i d

S p e e d o m e t e r C a b l e L u b r i c a n t

M H L M o P a r H y p o i d L u b r i c a n t

M L L u b r i p l a t e

M M L M o P a r M u l t i - M i l e a g e L u b r i c a n t

M P M u l t i - P u r p o s e G e a r L u b r i c a n t

D P O D r i p l e s s P e n e t r a t i n g O i l

P S F P o w e r S t e e r i n g F l u i d

S M a n i f o l d H e a t C o n t r o l V a l v e S o l v e n t

S L S t a i n l e s s S t i c k L u b r i c a n t

W B W h e e l B e a r i n g L u b r i c a n t — M e d i u m

M M C M o p a r C a r b u r e t o r C l e a n e r

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Service

Interval

2 Months

6 Months

1 Year

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-3

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Item

Replace

Inspect

Fluid

Level

Service

Inspect and/or

Clean Lubricate Service

Engine crankcase oil

(not to exceed 4,000 Miles)

Engine oil filter

Oil filler air cleaner

Manifold heat control valve

Crankcase ventilator valve

Carburetor choke shaft & linkage

Transmission

Rear Axle

Steering gear

Steering linkage

Universal joint

Prop, shaft spline

Brake master cylinder

Brake hoses

Carburetor air cleaner

(not to exceed 8,000 Miles)

Engine Performance Evaluation

(not to exceed 10,000 Miles)

Fuel filter

(not to exceed 16,000 Miles)

X 2 Years

32,000 Miles Ball joints, front suspension & steering linkage

Clutch release fork pivot

Clutch torque shaft bearings

When

Necessary

Brake linings

(not to exceed 20,000 Miles)

Carburetor air cleaner

(not to exceed 32,000 Miles)

Body mechanisms

Speedometer cable

Manual gearshift linkage

Front wheel bearing

(with brake service)

Parking brakes

Clutch linkage & pressure plate drive lugs

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CAPACITIES CHART

Chrysler

Imperial

8 VC-1 Newport

Town and Country

8 VC-2 300 (*)

8 VC-3 New Yorker

Town and Country

8 VY-1 Custom

8 VY-1 Crown

8 VY-1 LeBaron

16 5

• 5

TRANSMISSION

Manual Manual Torque

Pint Pint

3-Speed 4-Speed

Flite

Pts.

Axle

Rear

Pt.

5 7Vt 20 4 8.00x14

7Vi

8.50x14

8.20x15

8.00x14 4

8.00x1

4(*) 4

8.50x14 4

24 22

!4x5

/2K

26 14x6K

22(*) 14x6K(*)

22 14x6K

14x6

/2K

15x6L

(a) Add 1 quart for the heater

(b) Add 1 quart when the filter is changed

(*) 300K—15x6K wheel, Tire pressure 24 psi front and rear; (used with 413 cubic inch high performance engine)

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-5

GROUP 0

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CONTENTS

Page Page

C a p a c i t i e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Hoisting 15

Air C l e a n e r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 T i r e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

D i s t r i b u t o r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 every 20,000 Miles. 21

SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SERVICES

Maintenance and lubrication service recommendations for the 1964 Chrysler Corporation cars have been compiled (designed etc.) to provide maximum protection to vehicle owners against all types of driving conditions. These, as well as driving habits, are so varied that to prescribe the lubrication and maintenance services on a mileage basis only, did not take care of those who drove fewer miles during equal length time periods, especially during adverse weather conditions.

These recommendations, therefore, have been related to the best of our ability to time intervals, yet limited by mileage where necessary. In general, semiannual lubrication and maintenance services have been prescribed for most items. Exceptions to this include two month intervals between engine oil changes (not to exceed 4,000 miles) opposed to the front suspension lubrication every 32,000 miles.

CERTIFIED CAR CARE

Certified Car Care is a thorough servicing program that helps make sure the vehicles you sell get the regular attention you know they need.

Certified Car Care helps build business for you in the surest way known—through customer satisfaction, not to mention the extra profits from the service department. Tell your owner that the best approach to trouble-free driving is Certified Car Care . . .

A practical plan to build sales and service for you, providing for regular customer service at your dealerships.

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0-6 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

1. ENGINE O I L

Lubricants are classified and graded according to standards recommended by the Society of Automotive

Engineers (SAE), the American Petroleurii Institute

(API) and the National Lubricating Grease Institute

(NLGI).

The SAE grade number indicates the viscosity of the lubricant (Example, SAE 30). Engine oils may have a dual number, one of which is SAE 10W-30. This marking indicates that the oil is comparable to SAE

10W, SAE 20W and SAE 30 grades.

Both the SAE number and the MS designation should be marked on the container.

Complete information pertaining to the lubrication points, is shown in Figures 1 and 2, for Imperial and

Chrysler Models.

2 . SELECTION O F LUBRICANT

For best performance and to provide for maximum protection of all engines, for all types of operation, only those lubricants should be selected which; conform to the requirements of the API Classification

"For Service MS". Straight mineral oils never should are:

be used.

Have the proper SAE grade number for the anticipated temperature range.

or non-detergent

Although all viscosity grades can be used safely at nearly all temperatures, light oils SAE 5W and 10W increase oil consumption at high temperatures and heavy oils SAE 30 make engine starting more difficult in cold weather. The recommended viscosity grades

Multigrades—SAE 10W-30

SAE 5W

Suitable year around for most parts of the country may be used as low as - 1 0 ° F .

SAE 5W-20 ently below + 1 0 ° F .

Single grades SAE 30 When temperatures are consistently above 32° F.

SAE 10W

Recommended if temperatures are consist-

W h e n t e m p e r a t u r e ranges average between

32 and - 1 0 ° F .

When temperatures are consistently below —10°

3 . FREQUENCY O F O I L C H A N G E S

Chrysler Corporation recommends that engine oil be changed at least every two months. Ca?s dtlven more than 2,000 miles per month should have the engine oil changed at a maximum of 4,000 miles.

If the cars are operated under unusual conditions, the owner should consult the local dealer's Service

Manager to determine the best program to follow.

The two most important factors which effect oU life, aside from oil quality, are: Engine temperature and type of driving.

At low engine temperatures harmful condensation and sludge-forming impurities accumulate in the engine oil. These cause corrosion of vital engine parts and harmful deposits. Highway driving produces higher engine temperatures which dissipate these impurities. Short trip driving at slower speeds does not warm the oil sufficiently to drive off these contaminants. Therefore, short trip driving at lower temperatures decreases the effective life of the oil while highway driving extends the effective lubricant life.

For example, highway driving, and longer trips permit oil changes at 4,000 mile intervals. Short trips

(less than 10 miles) and slow speeds, such as to the store, school, work etc, and home again before the oil warms up causes harmful condensation and sludge formation. This is typical of most city operation. Oil changes should be made at intervals no longer than every two months.

Severe operating conditions such as frequent driving on dusty roads or in sandy geographic areas or unusually short trips in cold weather will require more frequent service.

During Break-In—The oil added to the engine at the factory is a high quality lubricant, classified for

"Service MS". It should be retained for two months or

4,000 miles, whichever comes first. If it becomes necessary to add oil during this initial period, an oil for

Service MS and of the proper viscosity grade should be used. "Non-Detergent" or "Straight mineral" oils should not be used during the break-in period.

Frequently a new engine will consume some oil during its first few thousand miles of operation. This should be considered as a normal part of the breakin, and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty.

4 . A I R CLEANERS

Off Filler C a p

Lubricants which do not have both an SA1 designation and an MS service classification shown on the container should not be used. The proper viscosity number should be selected based on the lowest temperature expected during the coming period of usage.

Engines require ventilation through the crankcase to remove combustion products. Air enters the engine through the oil filler pipe which is equipped with a combination cap and air cleaner to protect the engine

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-7

Fig. 3—Engine Oil Filler Cap A i r Cleaner from dustladen air (Fig. 3). The oil

filler

cap should be washed

kerosene and re-lubricated with S A E 30 engine oil every 6 months. Vehicles which are operated in extremely dusty areas should be serviced more frequently. Fig. 4—Carburetor A i r Cleaner

Carburetor Air Cie&ner

The paper element carburetor air cleaner should be inspected every 6 months, not to exceed 8,000 miles and cleaned as often as conditions warrant and a new element should be installed every 2 years not to exceed 32,000 miles (Fig. 4).

After removing the air cleaner from the carburetor, remove the cover and the filter element, clean the housing and cover with compressed air. Using compressed air, gently clean the paper element by holding the air nozzle at least two inches from the inside screen. Examine the paper element for punctures. Discard an element that has a little as a pinpoint

puncture.

Examine the soft plastic sealer on both

sides

the element. These sealing surfaces must be

smooth and uniform. Refer

Paragraph "Carburetor Choke Linkage and Shaft"

for

servicing at this time.

Run the engine at idle to clean out any excess from the system. Refer to Paragraph "Carburetor Air

Cleaner" for servicing at this time.

6 . C R A N K C A S E VENTILATOR V A L V E

All models are equipped with a positive crankcase ventilating system. This system is similar, but not identical, to systems used on the previous models

(Fig. 5).

5 . CARBURETOR CHOICE L I N K A G E

A N D SHAFT

Every 6 months apply MoPar Carburetor Cleaner,

Part Muinber 1643273 to prevent the choke f ticking from gum deposits on the choke shaft.

Remove the air cleaner and apply the cleaner while moving the choke blade back and forth until gum formation is flushed out. Apply the cleaner to the choke shaft where it rotates in the air horn to remove gum and

dirt from these surfaces.

THIS WASHER IS COLOR CODED TO IDENTIFY VENT

VALVE ASSEMBLY SEE SPECIFICATIONS

V-8 ENGINES 64x307

Fig.

5— Closed Crankcase Ventilator Valve

Schematic

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0-8 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE spected at least every six months and the valve replaced once a year preferable to coincide with the annual engine performance evaluation. This service will be required more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for short trips - driving less than 10 miles

—with frequent idling, such as city traffic.

With the engine running at idle, remove the ventilator valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover. If the valve is not plugged, a hissing noise will usually, be heard as air passes through the valve and a strong vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over the valve inlet. Replace the ventilator valve and cap assembly and remove the inlet breather cap. With the engine still running at idle, loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over the oil fill pipe. It should be sucked against the oil fill pipe within a few seconds with a holding force. If this occurs, a final check should be made to be certain the valve shuttle is free. A clicking noise should be heard when the valve is shaken (engine not running). K the noise is heard, the unit is satisfactory and no further service is necessary.

If the valve does not click when shaken or if the paper is not sucked against the fill pipe, the valve should be replaced and the system retested. (Do not attempt to clean the valve.) On all engines, use MoPar

Ventilator Valve, identified by a letter "H" stamped on the end, a flat end or a black end washer. With a new valve installed, if the vacuum can be felt with the engine idling, the system is satisfactory. If the vacuum cannot be felt, it will be necessary to clean the ventilator hose and the passages in the lower part of the carburetor. The carburetor must be removed and cleaned by dipping the lower part of the carburetor in solvent. A pipe cleaner or small wire may be used in cleaning the passages. It is not necessary to disassemble the carburetor for this service.

7 .

ENGINE

Fig. 7—Fuel Filter Installed

O I L FILTER

Efficient filtering of the engine oil is very important to provide good engine protection (Fig. 6). The oil filter should be changed every 6 months to coileide with an engine oil change. Short trips, stop and go operation, or operation in dusty areas may require more frequent filter changes. All engines are equipped with a full-flow oil filter. Filters vary widely in. quality, and it is recommended that MoPar Engine

Oil Filter, Part Number 1851658 be used, to assure the most efficient service.

8. FUEL FILTER

The fuel filter (Fig.

7) should be replaced at least every 16,000 miles or once each year. Loss of performance may occur if the filter traps an unusually large quantity of foreign matter due either to operating conditions or contaminated fuel, restricting the flow of fuel to the carburetor. If this occurs the filter should be replaced as required.

Fig. 6—Engine Oil Filter Fig. 8—Manifold Heat Control Valve

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-9

9 . M A N I F O L D HEAT CONTROL V A L V E

Every 6 months or more often under adverse conditions, apply Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent,

Part Number 1879318 to each end of the valve shaft when the manifold is COOL. Work the valve back and forth a few times to distribute the solvent to make sure the lead deposits are dissolved (Fig. 8).

NOTE: Apply manifold heat control solvent only when the exhaust manifold is COOL.

1 1 . BATTERY

Refill the battery as necessary with distilled water and test the specific gravity. Clean and tighten the battery cable, terminals and the battery posts. Refer to "Electrical" Group 8 for complete servicing.

1 0 . ALTERNATOR

The alternator is equipped with pre-lubricated bearings, which require no periodic lubrication servicing.

The outside of the alternator should be wiped clean and the ventilating holes inspected for an accumulation of dirt which would obstruct the flow of air.

(Servicing the Alternator, Refer to "Electrical" Group

8, for complete servicing of the Alternator.)

1 2 . B O D Y MAINTENANCE

To maintain ease of operation and protection against rust and wear, the body mechanism and throttle linkages will require lubrication every 6 months. Prior to applying any lubricants, the parts should be wiped clean to remove dust and grit. The excess oil or lubricant should be removed.

Particular attention should be given to external lock cylinders during fall and winter months to insure protection from water and ice.

Lubricate the following:

Item

All external lock cylinders

Door Check Arms, hood hinges and lock

Door lock, vacuum intrusion guard

T y p e of L u b r i c a n t

Mopar Lubriplate

Fuel tank access cover hinge and pin

Parking brake mechanism

Tailgate locks

Tailgate torsion bar roller cam

Throttle control bellcrank passenger side of firewall

Throttle control bellcrank engine side of firewall.

Deck lid latch

Door hinges and other hard to lubricate places

Mopar Lubriplate

Engine oil

R e m a r k s

Apply directly.

Apply directly, use sparingly.

Remove the front door trim panel, apply lubricant to pivots, inspect tubing (except

Imperial Models.)

Apply directly, use sparingly.

Apply a light film directly.

Apply to inner surfaces through access hole, use sparingly.

Apply to contact surfaces, use sparingly.

Apply directly to bearing surfaces (Imperial only.)

Apply directly to bearing surfaces.

Apply to inner surfaces, use sparingly.

Apply directly. Do not apply to ramp* or outside of roller.

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0-10 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE item Type o f Lubricant

Door latch rotor

Tailgate hinges

Door lock striker plates

Tailgate lock stalker plates and dovetail surfaces

Engine oil

Mopar Stainless stick lubricant

Remarks

Apply 2 or 3 drops to outside and inside rotor bearing surface.

Apply directly, use sparingly.

Apply directly to upper edge of plate on door frame.

Apply directly.

1 3 . BRAKES

All Models have self adjusting brakes so that major brake adjustments are unnecessary.

Brake linings should be inspected for wear every

20,000 miles or every 2 years or more frequently if severe brake use is experienced. At the time of brake lMng inspection, the contact area of the brake shoes to brake backing plate should be lubricated with a very thin film of MoPar Sylglyde, Part Number

1881923. For this operation, the brake shoes must be removed, and the contact areas cleaned and smoothed with sandpaper before applying lubricant.

Brake hoses should be inspected for cracking, abrasions, cuts or tears in the outer covering every

6 months. relubricated every 32,000 miles with MoPar Multi-

Mileage Lubricant Part Number 2298947. Clean the accumulated dirt and grease from the outside surface of the seal to permit complete inspection. Remove the threaded plug from each ball joint. Insert a standard grease fitting, however, if high pressure dispensing equipment is used, care must be taken to fill and flush the ball joint slowly to avoid damaging the seal. If no grease fitting is used, an adapter will be necessary on the grease dispenser to ensure proper filling and flushing of the units. Stop filling when the lubricant begins to flow freely from the bleed areas at the base of the seal or if the seals begin to balloon. Reinstall the plugs.

Hydrauth Brake System

Master Cylinder (Fig. 9)

Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder every six months. Replenish with MoPar Hi-Temp Brake

Fluid for the feest performance. Bringthe level up to within % inch of the top of the reservoir.

Parking Brake Mechanism

Apply a light film of lubriplate directly to the activating and the release mechanism (Figs. 10 and 11).

When the foot lever can be depressed more than four and one-half inches the cable should be adjusted.

Refer to "Brakes" Group 5 for the adjusting procedures.

14. FRONT S U S P E N S I O N BALL J O I N T S the front suspension ball joints should be inspected every 6 months or whenever a vehicle is serviced.

The ball joints are semi-permanently lubricated with a special lubricant at the factory. They should be Fig. 9—Master Cylinder

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-11 p j g #

10—Foot Operated Forking ircike (Imperial! (Disassembled!

F j g

11 Foot Operated Parking Brake (Chrysler) (Disassembled!

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0-12 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

1 5 . CLUTCH A N D GEARSHIFT L I N K A G E S —

( M a n u a l T r a n s m i s s i o n )

Clutch Torque Shaft— Every 32,000 miles, relubricate the clutch torque shaft bearings on the clutch release fork, with MoPar Multi-Mileage Lubricant,

Part Number 2298947 (Fig. 14).

Clutch Release Fork Swivel— When disassembling the clutch torque shaft, clean the swivel and swivel socket on the clutch release fork and lubricate with

Automotive Multipurpose Grease, NLGI 2 at the time of reassembly.

Fig. 12—Steering Linkage Location of Lubrication

Fitting

Steering Linkage Ball Joints

The steering linkage ball joints should be inspected every 6 months or whenever the vehicle is serviced

(Figs. 12 and 13).

Damaged joints or seals should be replaced to prevent contamination of the grease or failure of the component.

The tie rod and pitman arm linkage ball joints are semi-permanently lubricated with a special lubricant at the factory. AH ball joints should be relubricated every 32,000 miles with MoPar Multi-Mileage Lubricant Part Number 2298947. Clean any accumulated dirt or grease from the outside surface of the seal to permit complete inspection. Remove the threaded plug from the ball joint. A standard grease fitting may be screwed into the hole. If not used, an adapter is necessary to correctly fill and flush the unit. MoPar

Multi-Mileage lubricant should be injected into each unit until the grease flows freely from the seal bleed area, at the base of the seal. High pressure dispensing equipment may be used to flush and fill the unit. Reinstall the plugs. floor ^Mounted Gearshift Lever

Whenever the operation of the lever indicates that lubrication is needed, remove the rubber boot from the floor panel and apply engine oil to the pivots point and yoke selector mechanism.

Clutch Drive Lugs, Release Bearing Sleeve,

Fork Fingers and Fork Pivots

If the effort required to depress the clutch pedal becomes excessive, the inspection plate on the bottom of the clutch housing and the fork boot should be removed to allow lubrication. Apply Automotive Multi-purpose Lubricant or MoPar Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part number 2298947 to the points of contact and relative motion on the clutch drive lugs, fork fingers and fork points. Care must be taken to avoid application of lubricant to the clutch disc and pressure plate.

1 6 . C O O L I N G SYSTEM

Inspect the level of the cooling system every 2 months. The cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled with the proper coolant in the spring and again in the fall. When necessary to remove accumulations of rust and other deposits, maximum cleanliness can be restored by using Cooling System

Cleaner according to the directions listed on the conmmm SHAFT A N D

Fig. 13—Upper and Lower Ball Joints

INNER MATING SURFACE 6 4 x 1 7 2

Fig. 14—Cluteh Linkage and Torque Shaft

Lubrication

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-13 tainer. Always discard any old solutions removed.

When ready for refilling refill with water and protect against corrosion by adding MoPar Rust Resistor, or refill with MoPar anti-freeze and water, depending upon the season.

When draining the system both plugs on the V-8 engine should be opened, and the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator opened.

Sufficient permanent type anti-freeze should be used in the cooling system at all times to prevent freezing in the heater core on vehicles equipped with air conditioning. The coolant solution must contain

20% glycol-type antifreeze during the summer months to provide for protection against temperatures down to + 15°F, at the heater core. In the winter, protect for the lowest anticipated temperature range, but never use less than 20% glycol-type anti-freeze to ensure adequate protection against corrosion.

A l models are equipped with a 180° thermostat.

With this thermostat, permanent type anti-freeze must be used. Should an alcohol-type anti-freeze be used, a 160° thermostat must be installed.

C A U T I O N : Chrysler Corporation does not recommend the use of a 160° thermostat for vehicles equipped w i t h a i r conditioning.

1 7 . DISTRIBUTORS

Every 10,000 miles or once each year apply three drops of light engine oil to the felt rotor wick (Fig.

15). Apply 5 to 10 drops of light engine oil in the coil cup. Apply MoPar Cam Lubricant to the cam and rubbing block.

Two or three drops of light engine oil in the felt wick are required. Apply a thin coat of MoPar Cam

Lubricant in the cam and rubbing block after the old lubricant has been wiped off.

Fig. 16— Wheel Searing Packed (Schematic)

1 8 . FRONT WHEEL HEARINGS

The front wheel bearings should be cleaned and repacked with Wheel Bearing or Automotive Multipurpose Lubricating grease whenever the brake linings are replaced or the brake drums are resurfaced.

Hie lubricant in the wheel bearings should be inspected whenever the wheels are removed to inspect or service the brake system. Do not repack the bearings if the grease is adequate in quantity and in good condition.

If the lubricant is low in quantity, contains dirt, or has been contaminated with water to produce a milky appearance, the old lubricant should be removed, the bearings cleaned and relubricated with Wheel Bearing

Lubricant, or Multi-purpose Lubricating grease. DO

NOT ADD LUBRICANT TO THE WHEEL BEARINGS.

Clean out the old lubricant thoroughly from the bearings and the hubs and repack with the new lubricant. The annular groove of the wheel inner hubs should be filled with lubricant (Fig. 16).

To adjust the front wheel bearings.

Fig. 15—Distributor Lubrication Points Fig. 17—Front Wheel Bearing Installation

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0-14 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

T "

17.2"

-32.5"

-26.5"T

20 SQ. " MINIMUM FOUR PADS

-<t CARi 7 . r |

28.5'-

-PAD POSITIONS WITHIN THESE

LIMITS SATISFACTORY

129"-

<t FRONT WHEELS 4 REAR WHEELS

64x177

Fig. 18—-Support Location for Frame Contact Hoisting (Imperial)

20 SQ. " MINIMUM

FOUR PADS

<t FRONT WHEELS <£ REAR WHEELS

Fig, 1^—Support Location for Frame Contact Hoisting (Chrysler)

PAD POSITION WITHIN

THESE LIMITS

SATISFACTORY

6 4 x 1 7 6

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-15

(1) Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds torque while rotating the wheel.

(2) Position the nut lock on the adjusting nut so one pair of the cotterpin slots aligns with the hole in the spindle (Fig. 17).

(3) Back off the adjusting nut and lock assembly to the next slot, and install the cotterpin.

(4) Clean the lubricant cap, coat the inside with wheel bearing lubricant (do not fill) and install the cap.

(5) Install the wheel, tighten the wheel nuts to 65 foot-pounds torque and install the wheel cover.

1 9 . HEADLAMPS

One of the most important contributions to automotive safety, is the correct adjustment of the headlamp beams. Suspension geometry changes, or heavy loading often will change the headlamp beam pattern and cause unsafe driving conditions. If a vehicle is to be loaded abnormally, such as on a vacation trip, or a salesman's vehicle loaded with his products, the headlamps should be adjusted. Refer to Group 8

"Electrical" for service procedures.

2 0 . H O I S T I N G

Special care should be taken when raising the vehicle on a frame contact type hoist. The hoist must be equipped with the proper adapters in order that the vehicle will be supported in the correct location, as shown in Figures 18 and 19.

Conventional hydraulic hoists may be used after determining that the adapter plates will make firm contact with the lower control arms and the rear axle housing.

A regular floor jack may be used under the rear axle housing, or under the front suspension lower control arms, however, a floor jack must never be used on any other parts of the underbody.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehicle by placing a jack midway between a front and rear wheel. This procedure may result in permanent damage to the body.

The bumpers are designed to accept a bumper jack in an emergency, if it becomes necessary to change a tire on the road. Notches are provided in the bumpers for the purpose of raising the vehicle with the bumper jack.

2 1 . PARTS R E Q U I R I N G N O LUBRICATION

There are many points that should not be lubricated some because they are permanently lubricated, some because lubricants will be detrimental to their opera-

5 2 x 5 9 3 A

Fig. 20—Universal Joint Ball and Trunnion ting characteristics, and some because lubricants will cause component failures. In any event, rubber bushings should not be lubricated, not only because lubricants will cause rubber to fail, but also will destroy their necessary friction characteristics. The following parts should not be lubricated:

Accelerator Pedal Fan Belt Idler Pulley

All Rubber Bushings (With Air Conditioning)

Alternator Bearings Rear Springs

Brake Linkages (Passen- Rear Wheel Bearings ger side of Dash Panel) Starter Bearing

Carburetor Air Cleaner Steering Gear Arm Pivot

Clutch Pedal Push Rod

Ends

Upper and Lower Control

Arm Bushings

Clutch Release Bearings

Drive Belts

2 2 . PROPELLER SHAFTS A N D UNIVERSAL

J O I N T S

Every 6 months inspect for external leakage. The universal joints should not be disassembled or relubricated unless external leakage is noted.

Relubrication of the universal joint is not required for normal vehicle usage. If the vehicle operation is similar to any of the following, it is recommended that the universal joints be disassembled, cleaned, and relubricated every 32,000 miles (Figs. 20 and 21).

1. Police vehicles.

2. Taxicab operation.

3. Frequent towing of trailers.

Continuous operation at higher than normal loading.

The universal joints should be relubricated with

MoPar Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part No. 2298947 as follows:

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0-16 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE ommended for vehicles used in normal service, except when the axle oil has been contaminated with water or to provide the correct viscosity grade for the anticipated temperature range as indicated by the following table:

Anticipated Temperature Range

Above — 10°F.

As low as —30°F.

Below —30°F.

Viscosity Grade

SAE 90

SAE 80

SAE 75

The lubricant level should be inspected every 6 months with the vehicle in a level position and supported on a wheel or axle type hoist. The lubricant level should be between the bottom of the filler plug hole to V% inch below (Fig. 22).

Fig.

21— Universal Joint Crass and Roller

1. Ball and Trunnion - Repack with two (2) ounces

Trailer Towing Service

The drive line components on passenger vehicles used to pull trailers or similar heavy duty usage will

2. Cross and Roller - Repack.

3. Spline - Refill approximately one-half full. Use

Multi-purpose lubricant with 10% molybdenum disulfide powder added. those used in normal passenger vehicles. See "Passenger Car Special Towing Recommendations''.

2 3 . REAR A X L E A N D SURE GRIP

Multipurpose Gear Lubricant as defined by MIL-L-

2105B should be used in all rear axles. MoPar Hypoid

Lubricant Part Number 1879414 is an oil of this type recommended.

Frequency

of

Off

Change

The changing of the rear axle lubricant is not rec-

2 4 . SPEEDOMETER CABLE

The speedometer cable should be removed* cleaned and relubricated with MoPar Al-Weather Speedometer Lubricant, Part Number 1243632 if the operation becomes noisy or erratic.

Disconnect the cable at the speedometer housing, and remove the shaft. Clean the shaft and coat with a very thin film of lubricant and reinstall the shaft.

Clean the excess lubricant from the top one-foot of core and from the ferrule before the shaft is inserted completely.

C A U T I O N ; Excessive lubricant may cause speedometer malfunction.

62X791

Fig.

22— Removing the Lubricant Using a Suction

Tube

2 5 . STEERING

Manual Steering

Every 6 months the lubricant level of the fluid should be checked and if necessary replenish to the level of the filler hole with Multipurpose Gear

Lubricant as defined by MIL-L-2105B. Use SAE 80 for temperatures ranging above —30

F. and SAE 75° for temperatures below —30°F. If SAE 80 is not available SAE 90 may be used (Fig. 23).

C A U T I O N ; Do not use a pressure gun.

Power Steering

Inspect the level of the power steering pump reservoir every six months (Fig. 24). If necessary, replenish

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-17

LEFT F R O N T R I G H T F R O N T

Pig 23—Manual Steering Gear Lubrication

Fig. 25—Tire Rotation

57x23 to the bottom of the filler neck with MoPar Power

Steering Fluid, Part Number 2084329.

2 6 . TIRES

Tires should be rotated including the spare (Fig.

25) every 5,000 miles to provide long tire life, uniform wear, and to retain comfortable riding qualities.

The spare should be used so that all the tires will wear at approximately the same rate.

The tires should be examined for unusual wear patterns, foreign material and proper inflation pressure, each time the engine oil is changed. Such conditions, may reflect unusual driving habits or indicate mechanical corrections may be necessary.

See the capacities page for the recommended inflation pressures.

Fig. 24—Power Steering Reservoir

2 7 . TRANSMISSION

Manual Transmission

Every 6 months, remove the filler plug and inspect the fluid level, and if necessary replenish to the level of the filler hole. Use Automatic Transmission Fluid,

Type "A", Suffix "A" for 3-speed and 4-speed manual transmissions for all anticipated temperature ranges.

Multipurpose Gear Lubricant SAE 90 or SAE 140 may be used in warm climates. Use Multipurpose Gear

Lubricant SAE 80 with the 3-speed Warner T-85 heavy duty manual transmission for temperatures ranging above + 32°F. SAE 90 may be used if SAE 80 is not available. Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A",

Suffix "A" should be used when the temperature drops below +32°F.

Frequency of oil change—No change is recommended for vehicles used in normal service.

Trailer Towing Service

Drive line components on passenger vehicles used to pull trailers or similar heavy duty usage will require more frequent inspection and service than those used in normal passenger vehicles. See "Passenger

Car Special Towing Recommendations

Automatic

Transmission

Inspect the fluid level every 6 months with the engine and transmission at normal operating temperature.

(1) With the parking brake on and the engine idling, depress each button momentarily, ending with the "N" (Neutral) button pushed in.

(2) The fluid level should be slightly below the full

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0-18 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE mark, but never above the "F" mark when the engine is at its normal warmed condition described above.

Add or remove the fluid as necessary to bring to this level.

CAUTION: To prevent dirt frorn entering the transmission make certain that the dip stick cap is reseated properly onto the filler tube.

If it is necessary to inspect the fluid level when the transmission is cold, the fluid should be at, or slightly below the "Add One Pint" mark. If below the mark, add one pint of fluid then recheck the level.

Chrysler Corporation does not recommend the addition of any fluids to the transmission other than

Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type "A" Suffix "A".

The only exception to this policy are the uses of refined kerosene to aid starting in very cold weather, the use of special dyes to aid in detecting fluid leaks and the use of MoPar Automatic Transmission Sealer,

Part Number 2298923, in high mileage vehicles. If starting is difficult when the average temperature consistently ranges below —10°F., drain IV2 pints of transmission fluid and replace with refined kerosene.

This service should be performed only once during the low-temperature season. Thereafter, any replenishment should be with Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type "A", Suffix "A".

Fig. 26—Converter Drain Plug

2. Taxicab operation.

3. Frequent towing of trailers.

4. Continuous operation at higher than normal loading.

Refer to Group 21, "Transmission" for the oil change procedure.

2 8 . WINDSHIELD W I P E R S

If the windshield wipers are smearing or in general poor wiping of the windshields, the rubber blade should be replaced with a new one.

Depress the release on the top of the blade and the rubber blade will slide off. Replace with the new rubber blade. Slide the blade into the catch to fasten.

Refer to MoPar Parts list for correct blade.

Frequency of Lubrication

The transmission fluid and oil filter will provide satisfactory lubrication and protection to the automatic transmission, therefore regularly scheduled oil changes will not be required in vehicles used in normal service. Therefore, the oil changes will not be required except when the service is severe as described below. If the regular operation of the vehicle is similar to any of the following, the transmission should be adjusted and the oil and filter changed approximately every 32,000 miles. For extreme severe service, it may be necessary to change the fluid more frequently (Fig. 26).

1. Police vehicles.

2 9 . H O O D

(AH

LATCH

M o d e l s )

( l o c k S t r i k e r P l a t e )

Lubrication of the Hood lock assembly is of vital importance to prevent any possibility of a binding or frozen lock or safety latch.

Every 6 months apply Automotive Multi-purpose lubricant to all pivot points, springs and rubbing surfaces. Work the lubricant in the latch mechanism until all functional areas are covered.

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PASSENGER CAR MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR CERTIFIED CAR CARE

Maintenance

Change engine oil—every 2 months, not to exceed 4,000 miles

Change engine oil filter—every 6 months a

Clean and inspect carburetor air filter—every 6 months not to exceed 8,000 miles

0 p y

Replace carburetor aft* filter— every 2 years, not to exceed 32,000 miles

Inspect fluid level—transmission and rear axle

UJ .

U u

—i

Inspect and lubricate manifold heat control valve

Inspect universal joint seals

Clean oil filler cap and inspect crankcase ventilator valve

Ul a

Clean oil filler cap and replace crankcase ventilator valve

Cooling system—flush and refill

Service and/or Certification Interval

6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 54 60

Mas. Mos. Mos. Mos. Mos. Mos. Mos. Mos. Mos. Mos.

X z o u w u

Inspect fluid level in steering gear and brake master cylinder reservoir

Inspect seals at suspension ball-joints and all steering linkage pivots

Lubricate body mechanisms (door hinges and latches, hood and trunk latches, etc.)

Lubricate choke linkage and shaft

X x

X c

TO n

> o z

> z o

Z n m

> z

—i m

O mmM

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RECOMMENDED SERVICES AT MILEAGE INTERVALS

Rotate tires—inspect for wear

Engine performance evaluation and tune-up, if necessary

Inspect front brake assemblies and front wheel bearings

Replace fuel filter

Lubricate front suspension ball-joints, tie rod ends and clutch torque shaft (Manual trans.)

Every 5,000 miles

Every 10,000 miles or once each year

Every 20,000 miles or every two years

Every 16,000 miles or once each year

Fverv 32.000 miles

PASSENGER CAR TRAILER-TOWING SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS

TRAILER TOWING SERVICE—The drive line components on passenger vehicles used to pull trailers or similar heavy duty usage will require more frequent inspection and service than those used in normal operation. The recommended service intervals are as follows:

Models

Normal recommended service interval

Lt. duty—occasional trailer-towing

Med. duty—frequent trailer-towing

Hvy. duty

— cont. or prolonged trailer-towing

Up to 2500 lbs. Up to 2500 lbs. 2500 to 5500 lbs. Imperial and Chrysler—Combined weight limits (Trailer and load)

Maintenance

Change transmission fluid

Replace transmission oil filter (Auto, trans.)

*Change rear axle lubricant

Inspect universal joints and fluid level in transmission and rear axle

Inspect front brake assemblies and front wheel bearings

(Not required)

Every 6 months

20,000 miles

32,000 miles

Every 6 months

20,000 miles

32,000 miles

Every 2 months, not to exceed 4,000 miles

10,000 miles

32,000 miles

Every 2 months, not to exceed 4,000 miles

20,000 miles 1 0,000 miles

Contamination of the rear axle lubricant with water is possible by submerging the rear axle in water, allowing water to enter the axle vent. Boat-launching ramps are sometimes located to permit the submersion of the car axle. If contamination by wafer is evident or suspected, rear axle lubricant must be changed immediately, or axle failure will result.

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-21

CERTIFIED CAR CARE-ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVALUATION

EVERY 1 0 , 0 0 0 MILES OR ONCE EACH YEAR

Spark Plugs usually can be cleaned, adjusted and re-used for 20,000 miles. They should be replaced whenever obvious physical deterioration is apparent or when a test indicates sub-standard performance.

2. Distributor -Remove the distributor cap and rotor, clean and inspect. Inspect the ignition breaker points for pitting, bluing, and misalignment and adjust (lubricate cam cup and wick). Make sure that all distributor secondary wires and tower caps are clean and seated properly at all connections. Set ignition timing as necessary for high altitudes or the use of higher fuels without spark detonation.

Carburetor — Remove the air cleaner filter and clean properly. Check the fast idle speed at cam index. Adjust the carburetor idle mixture and fast idle speed to proper settings. Tighten the carburetor air horn to manifold nuts, also, clean the crankcase ventilator valve. Be assured that the manifold heat control valve and the carburetor choke piston are operating properly and are each re-treated with their specified solvent.

4. Electrical

—

Inspect the battery specific gravity.

Clean and tighten the battery terminals and connections. Test the battery line voltage at the starter. Test the starter cranking ability.

CERTIFIED CAR CARE-SEMI-ANNUAL MAINTENANCE SERVICE

Replace

—

Engine Oil Filter element.

Lubricate — Manifold Heat Control Valve with special MoPar solvent, carburetor choke shaft and throttle linkage.

Wipe clean and Lubricate, if necessary—Door Hinges and other Hard-to-lubricate places, Door Latch

Rotor, Door Lock Striker Plates, Door Check Arms,

Hood Hinges and Lock, All External Lock Cylinders,

Parking Brake Mechanism, Door Lock - Vacuum instrusion guard, Deck Lid Latch, Fuel Tank Access

Cover, Hinge and Pin, Throttle Control Bellcrank

(Engine and passenger side of firewall). All Town and

Country Models: Tail Gate Hinges, Tail Gate Locks,

Tail Gate Lock Striker Plates and Dovetail Surfaces,

Tailgate Torsion Bar Roller Cam.

Check Levels and A d d Fluids, i f Necessary

—

Transmission - (conventional or automatic), Rear Axle Differential, Steering Gear Pump (Power Steering), Manual Steering Gear, Engine Coolant - Check Anti-Freeze

Brake Master Cylinder, Battery.

Inspect

—

Condition of ball joints and steering linkage pivot and the ventilation valve.

CERTIFIED CAR CARE-BRAKE SYSTEM MAINTENANCE SERVICE

EVERY 2 0 , 0 0 0 MILES OR EVERY TWO YEARS

1. Remove both front wheel, tire and drum assemblies.

NOTE: Front brakes do 6 0 % of the braking. The condition of the front brakes will serve as an indicator of the condition of the rear brakes.

Blow out any accumulated dust or dirt.

3. Inspect lining wear pattern and determine remaining lining life.

Inspect condition of shoe return springs, inspect freedom of shoe movement, wheel cylinders, dust boots and backing plates.

Inspect the brake drums for excessive out of round, score marks, hard spots, and spider webbing.

6. Safety inspect all brake lines, brake tees and hoses. Safety check all conditions. Inspect the lower outside portion of the rear brake backing plates, leakage inside will usually show at this point.

7. Fill master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

8. Adjust service brakes on Models without automatic brake adjusters. <

9. Inspect and, if necessary, adjust the parking brake.

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0-22 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CERTIFIED CAR CARE-FRONT SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT

1. Determine if vehicle needs the front suspension system aligned. Three important reasons can indicate this need; a. Tire wear pattern and/or b. Car pulls in one direction on brake application and/or c. Car leads, left or right, in normal driving.

2. Inflate all tires to the specified pressure.

3. Inspect, if necessary, adjust front suspension height at torsion bars.

4. Inspect, if necessary, adjust camber, caster, and toe-in.

5. Inspect the condition of the steering linkage and inspect the seal condition of suspension parts.

6. Inspect the steering gear lubricant level.

7. Aim all headlights.

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ACCESSORIES 1-1

G R O U P 1

A C C E S S O R I E S ( R A D I O S , H E A T E R S , M I R R O R S )

CONTENTS

A U T O PILOT

Page

Speed Warning Operation . . . 2

Page

Electrical Tests 3

L u b r i c a t i o n . . . . . . . .

Tests. . . .

Auto Pilot Drive Mechanism 5

Accelerator Linkage Adjustment. 2

Control Cable Adjustment 2

ELECTRIC C L O C K

Clock Removal and Installation

HOT W A T E R HEATER

Heater Blower, 7 Rear Window Defroster.. .

Heater Vacuum Actuator. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Ventilator Door Adjustment.

Vent D e f l e c t o r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Heater Core 8

R A D I O A N D ANTENNA

Interference Elimination 11

Manual Antenna 12

REMOTE C O N T R O L OUTSIDE MIRROR

Remote Control Mirror 21

WINDSHIELD W A S H E R

Nozzle Adjustment 21

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S 22

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1-2 ACCESSORIES—AUTO PILOT _____

A C C E S S O R I E S ( R A D I O S , H E A T E R S , M I R R O R S )

AUTO PILOT

The auto-pilot is a driver operated voluntary speed control. It can be used either as a warning signal to indicate that a pre-set speed has been reached, or as a fully automatic vehicle speed regulator.

1. SPEED W A R N I N G O P E R A T I O N

The auto-plot is self engaging when the pre-set vehicle speed is reached. Set the instrument panel control to the desired speed and pull the button in the center of the control "OUT". When the desired vehicle speed is reached the reaction pressure is felt in the accelerator pedal. At the point of reaction pressure the driver's accelerator pedal pressure is relaxed and the accelerator is in the auto-pilot automatic regulation. The auto-pilot will automatically advance the accelerator on uphill operation and ^etafd m down grade operation. Autopilot automatic control ceases instantly with the slightest brake perM movement and the accelerator will revert to manual control. Disengagement of the automatic control majr also be accomplished by pushing "IN" the button in the center of the instrument panel control or turning the ignition switch to "OFF". ponent of the system. To properly test a malfunctioning auto-pilot it is essential that the following adjustments and tests be performed in the listed sequence:

Accelerator Linkage Adjustment

Control Cable Adjustment

Electrical

The auto-pilot instrument panel control is used to set the auto-pilot to a desired speed for existing driving conditions. When the pre-set speed is reached, the auto-pilot provides a reaction pressure to the accelerator pedal pressure. Since the reaction pressure is low, five to seven pounds, the driver can override the setting by pressing the accelerator through the reaction pressure.

% AUTOMATIC O P E R A T I O N

C Self -Latching 1

5 . ACCELERATOR L I N K A G E ADJUSTMENT

(1) Make certain the automatic choke is OFF and that the carburetor is at the normal idle position.

( F i g , 1 )

(2) Loosen the lock nut on the Auto-Pilot linkage rod and insert the locking arm gauge Tool C-3844 over the stop stud on the auto-pilot.

(3) Hold the exterior arm against the gauge pin and tighten the lock nut on the clearance between the stop stud and the exterior arm with the carburetor in the idle position.

6 . C O N T R O L CABLE ADJUSTMENT

(1) Loosen the screw on the dust shield. (This screw retains the control cable in the bottom of the dust shield) (Fig. 2).

(2) Rotate the instrument panel control dial counter-clockwise until it contacts the internal stop.

3 . LUBRICATION

All internal working parts of the auto-pilot are equipped with self-lubricated bearings, shielded ball bearings, or bearings which have been factory lubricated for the service life of the unit.

4 . TESTS

The following mechanical and electrical tests will aid in isolating and correcting malfunction conditions for the auto-pHot Service Diagnosis procedures must be followed to make certain the malfunction is in the auto-pHot unit and not in some other comFig. 1—Accelerator Linkage Adjustment

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ACCESSORIES—AUTO PILOT 1-3

Fig.

2 - A u t o Pilot Dust Shield Fig. 4—Testing Terminal No. 2

(3) Push in lightly on the control cable at the dust shield. This will position the control rod, to which the inner cable attaches, against its upper stop.

CAUTION: Do not force the cable beyond this position.

(4) Make certain that the instrument panel control dial is still against its extreme counter-clockwise stop.

(5) Tighten the screw on the dust shield securely.

7. ELECTRICAL TESTS

(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

(2) Pull out the auto-pilot control button in the center of the instrument panel control. Leave the button out for all of the electrical tests. If the control button will not stay out, test for a blown fuse, feed wire disconnected or poor grounding of the control. DO NOT START ENGINE.

(3) Terminal No.

1 (Red Wire)

— using a test lamp, ground one of the test lamp leads and touch the other lead to terminal No. 1 (Fig. 3). The test lamp should light. If the lamp fails to light, test for an

"open" circuit in the red wire between the auto-pilot and the ignition circuit, through the bulkhead connector.

(4) Terminal No. 2 (Blue Wire)

—

Ground one lead of the test lamp and touch the other lead to the No.

2 terminal (Fig. 4). If the lamp fails to light, test for "open" connections in the blue wire between the auto-pilot and the ignition circuit through the bulkhead connector and the auto-pilot brake switch.

If the circuit is "open" at the brake switch, test the brake switch adjustment. Adjust the brake switch (Fig. 5) until the light goes out with approximately

/4 to Vz inch of brake pedal movement.

Fig.

3— -Testing Terminal No.

1 Fig. 5—Auto Pilot Brake Switch

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1 -4 ACCESSORIES—AUTO PILOT detach the ball on the end of the wire from the ball socket.

(b) Using needle nose pliers, if necessary, pull out the ball socket. Loosen the locknut above the ball socket and rotate the socket to change the minimum speed. Rotating the socket counter-clockwise

(viewed from the cable end) decreases the minimum speed. One full turn will adjust the speed approximately 3 miles per hour.

(c) Tighten the nut behind the ball socket, assemble the dust shield and cable and adjust the control cable. (See Paragraph 6.)

(5) Repeat steps 3 and 4, if necessary, until min imum speed is within specifications.

(5) Terminal No. 3 (Black Wire) — insert one lead of the test lamp in the No. 1 terminal and the other lead of the test lamp in the No. 3 terminal (Fig. 6).

The test lamp should light. If the lamp fails to light, test for an "open" circuit between the autopilot and the instrument panel control through the bulkhead connector. If the lamp still fails to light, inspect the instrument panel control for proper grounding. When the control button is pushed in, the lamp should go out if the circuit is wired correctly.

Fig. 6—Testing Terminal No. 3

9 . INSTRUMENT PANEL SELECTOR C O N T R O L

Removal (ChryslerI

NOTE: Disconnect the selector control ground wire before servicing.

(1) Disconnect the control cable from the bottom of the Auto-Pilot by removing the clamp nut and dust shield, and unhook the ball on the end of the wire from the ball socket.

(2) Loosen the Allen screw in the selector knob and pull button knob. Remove both knobs from the shaft.

(3) Disconnect the double plug connected to the wire harness.

(4) Unscrew the attaching nut. Remove the selector head from the instrument panel.

(5) Pull the cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

8* A U T O - P l L O T ( D r i v e M e c h a n i s m )

C a l i b r a t i o n

(1) Test the accelerator linkage adjustment (Paragraph 5) and the control cable adjustment (Paragraph 6).

(2) Set the instrument panel control dial counterclockwise as far as it will turn.

(3) With the instrument panel control in the above position, engage the auto-pilot on a level road and read the speedometer. The speed at the minimum setting should be 22 to 30 miles per hour.

(4) If the minimum speed is not within specifications the low speed setting may be adjusted in the following manner:

Installation (Chrysler)

(1) Route the control cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

(2) Install the selector head in the instrument panel.

(3) Connect the ground wire and double plug.

(4) Install the attaching nut.

(5) Install the selector knob and the dial shaft and tighten the set screw.

(6) Install the pull button knob on the shaft and tighten the set screw.

(7) Connect the control cable to the Auto-Pilot unit. Adjust the control cable as described under

"Control Cable Adjustments".

CAUTION: This adjustment is seldom necessary and should not be attempted unless all other adjustments (Particularly the control cable) have been carefully performed.

(a) Disconnect the control cable from the bottom of the auto-pilot by loosening the screw on the dust shield. Turn and pull the dust shield down and

Removal (Imperial)

(1) Repeat steps (1), (2), (3) under "Removal

(Chrysler)".

(2) Unscrew the attaching nut.

(3) Remove the steering column lower dust shield.

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ACCESSORIES—ELECTRIC CLOCK 1-5

(4) Remove the steering column clamp.

(5) Lower the steering column.

(6) Disconnect the double plug connected to the wiring harness.

(7) Pull the cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

(2) Disconnect the drive cable and the speedometer cable from the power unit.

(3) Loosen the set screw at the lower end of the dust shield.

(4) Remove the dust shield from the housing, then slide the dust shield down the cable and slip the ball end of the bowden cable out of the socket.

Installation (Imperial)

(1) Route the control cable through the dash panel from the passenger side.

(2) Install the selector head in the steering column.

(3) Connect the ground wire and double plug.

(5) Disconnect the accelerator linkage from the exterior arm plate on the power unit.

(6) Remove the two bolts securing the power unit to the mounting bracket and remove the power unit, leaving, the mounting bracket attached to the fender dust shield. • /

(4) Install the attaching nut.

(5) Install the selector knob and the dial on/the shaft and tighten the set screw.

(6) Install the pull button knob on the shaft and tighten the set screw.

(7) Raise the steering column into position and install the steering column clamp. Tighten the clamp nuts.

(8) Install the steering column lower dust shield.

(9) Connect the control cable to the Auto-Pilot unit. Adjust the control cable as described under

"Control Cable Adjustment".

1 0 . A U T O PILOT DRIVE MECHANISM

Removal

(1) Disconnect the multiple electronic connector at the power unit.

Installation

(1) Position the power unit on the mounting bracket and secure to the bracket with two bolts.

(2) Connect the accelerator linkage to the locking arm on the power unit. Adjust linkage, as described in Paragraph 7.

(3) Install the ball end of the bowden cable in the socket on the power unit.

(4) Install the dust shield on the housing. Push in and turn clockwise. Do not tighten the set screw on the end of the dust shield until the control cable is properly adjusted.

(5) Adjust the control cable, as described in

Paragraph 6.

(6) Connect the drive cable and the speedometer cable to the power unit.

(7) Connect the multiple electric connector at the power unit.

ELECTRIC CLOCK

All Models (so equipped) have a solenoid actuated self regulating electric clock. The electric clock can be regulated by pulling out the regulating stem below the clock face and turning until the correct setting is accomplished.

1. ELECTRIC C L O C K

Removal (Chrysler)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

(5) Remove the two screws attaching the clock to the instrument base and remove the clock.

(2) Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument panel. (See "Electrical" Group 8—Instruments.)

(3) Remove the reset knob from the clock.

(4) Remove the wire connector from the terminal at the rear of the clock.

Removal (Imperial)

(1) Remove the trip odometer and clock reset knobs.

(2) Remove the screws that attach the instrument cluster bezel to the instrument cluster and remove the bezel.

(3) Remove the screws that attach the clock to the instrument cluster.

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1 -6 ACCESSORIES — HEATER

(4) Pull the clock forward slightly and disconnect the wiring to the clock.

(5) Remove the clock.

Installation (Chrysler)

(1) Position the clock on the instrument base and install the two retainer screws.

(2) Connect the wire lead to the terminal at the rear of the clock.

(3) Install the clock reset knob.

(4) Install the instrument cluster assembly.

(5) Connect the battery ground cable and reset the clock.

Installation (Imperial)

(1) Position the clock in front of the opening in the instrument cluster and connect the wiring to the clock.

(2) Place the clock into the instrument cluster opening and install the attaching screws.

(3) Position the instrument cluster bezel on the instrument cluster and install the attaching screws.

(4) Install the trip odometer and clock reset knobs.

HOT WATER HEATER

The hot water heating system (Fig. 1) is controlled by four push buttons and a temperature control lever. A fifth push button independently controls the summer ventilation system.

The Temperature Control Lever

— operates the water valve through a bowden cable. It is important that the bowden cable be adjusted to provide full opening and closing of the water valve for efficient functioning of the system.

Summer Ventilation

— is controlled by opening of the ventilator air damper.

For Heating passes through the heater core into the blower and distribution duct through the opened shut-off damper.

Defrosting

—

— air enters through the cowl intake is controlled by the defroster damper.

For maximum defrosting or deicing, the temperature control lever must be set in the full warm position.

^ ~ " •COWL AIR INTAKE

Fig. 1—Push Button Heater (Schematic View)

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ACCESSORIES—HEATER 1 - 7

Temperature Control Lever—selects the temperature of the air discharged through the lower and upper outlets. When the lever is in the upper position, air is not being heated. Air temperature is increased by moving the lever down toward the

"WARM" position.

"OFF" Button— When the "OFF" button is pushed in, the system will not operate. The "OFF" button cuts off the current from the control lever switch and blower motor. The ventilation doors are closed, preventing outside air from entering the vehicle.

"VENT" Button

—

Opens the ventilation door to allow outside air to enter the vehicle directly. It does not operate the blower.

"DEF" Button

—

Causes a major portion of the air to be forced onto the windshield through the air outlets on top of the instrument panel for defrosting or defogging.

" H I " Button

—

Causes a major portion of air to be directed toward the vehicle floor, at a high blower speed.

" L O " Button

—

Provides a gentle heat at a low blower speed.

Heating the Vehicle

Until the engine warms up, make sure the "OFF" button is pushed in and the temperature control lever is in the "WARM" position. Then, push in the

"HI" button and leave the temperature control lever in the "WARM" position for a fast initial vehicle warm-up. After warm-up, the " L O " button can be used and the temperature control lever adjusted to maintain the desired temperature. At lower outside temperatures and particularly to obtain maximum rear seat heating performance, it may be necessary to use the " H I " circulation. It is important to keep the windows closed, particularly the front vent wings, to eliminate objectional drafts and permit maximum air flow to the rear of the vehicle.

NOTE: When sufficient warm shield through defogging during

button to provide maximum air

the

air

the

"HI"

will

upper

normal

button is

be forced

pushed in,

onto the wind-

air outlets for adequate

driving conditions.

Defrosting or Defogging the Windshield

Push the "DEF" button for maximum defrosting and move the temperature control lever to the

"WARM" position. Under particularly severe fogging conditions, opening the front vent wings temporarily, will speed up the removal of fog from the windows.

••• i r o i a m n t T S M i a ^ f r - ^ r n T i n S M r ; — -.r

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. HEATER BLOWER

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

NOTE: To facilitate removal, disconnect the windshield wiper right link at the pivot to expose the housing screws.

(2) Disconnect the heater ground wire at the windshield wiper motor mounting bracket.

(9) Remove the housing and blower by pulling down and out of the driver's compartment.

(3) Disconnect the heater wires from the harness

(10) Remove the blower, mounting plate and motor. connectors.

(4) Disconnect the vacuum hoses at each

Installation vacuum unit.

NOTE: If the blower motor was removed from the mounting plate be sure the mounting grommets

(5) Remove the hoses from their attaching clips. are installed at the attaching bolts.

(6) Remove the heater valve capillary coil from the opening in the heater housing (driver's compartment, passenger side).

(1) Install the blower motor and mounting plate

' to the heater housing. Be sure the blower wheel is free and does not rub.

(7) Remove the clips from the housing.

(2) Position the housing on the dash panel and

(8) Remove the three screws attaching the heater distribution duct to the dash panel. (One is located install the three attaching screws. There is a spacer at each attaching screw. Be sure these spacers are to the left of the vent door and to the right of the brake pedal bracket; one below the heater at the passenger side and one screw is located at the windshield wiper motor right link pivot). installed between the heater housing and the dash panel when installing the housing; otherwise, the housing could be damaged when tightening the screws.

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1 -8 ACCESSORIES—HEATER

(3) Reposition the heater water valve capillary coil in the heater housing and install the attaching clips.

(4) Connect the vacuum hoses at the vacuum unit and install the attaching clips.

(5) Connect the heater wire at the harness connectors and install the black ground wire at the windshield wiper motor bracket.

(6) Attach the windshield wiper motor pivot link

(if disconnected).

(7) Connect the battery ground cable.

2 . HEATER V A C U U M A C T U A T O R —

REPLACEMENT 64 x 136

% x

(1) Disconnect the vacuum hoses.

(2) Remove the two nuts and lockwashers attaching the vacuum unit to the housing, and one clip attaching the vacuum unit rod to the actuator unit.

Fig.

3— Heater Hose Connections with Air housing to the dash panel.

(5) Remove the housing and core as an assembly.

(6) Remove the mastic to expose the core mounting screws.

3 . VENT DEFLECTOR—REPLACEMENT

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Drain the cooling system as necessary.

(3) Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater.

(Figures 2 and 3.)

(4) Remove the screws attaching the heater core

(7) Remove the heater core from the outer housing.

The vent deflector is attached to the heater housing by two spring clips and one screw. This deflector should be removed whenever the radio is to be removed.

4 . HEATER CORE

Installation

(1) Position the heater core in the heater outer housing and install the screws.

(2) Install new mastic.

(3) Position the heater housing and core assembly on the dash panel.

(4) Install all screws loosely, to insure proper alignment before tightening.

(5) Connect the heater hoses at the heater. Make certain the hoses are connected correctly (Figures

2 and 3).

(6) Refill the cooling system as necessary.

HEATER

INLET

HEATER

OUTLET

HOT WATER

T O HEATER

INLET

VACUUM

ACTUATOR

VENTILATOR ~ r •

DOOR LINKAGE

64 x 137

RETURN HOSE FROMj

HEATER OUTLET

N v V!

Fig.

2— Heater Hose Connections

V A C U U M

ACTUATOR

i MOUNTING

SCREWS

Fig.

4— Adjusting Ventilator Door

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ACCESSORIES—RADIO 1-9

1. REAR W I N D O W DEFROSTER

The rear window defroster (optional on all models) is located on and under the rear shelf panel of the vehicle, and consists of a blower, flexible hose and nozzle. A switch, located on the instrument panel, controls the blower for defrosting the rear window. The rear window defroster operates independently from the heater. The air recirculated on the rear window glass is drawn by the defroster blower from air inside the vehicle. must be properly adjusted. To adjust the ventilator door proceed as follows:

(1) Loosen the two vacuum actuator mounting screws.

(2) Push on the ventilator door linkage (Fig. 4) to insure that the linkage is positioned "over-center".

(3) Push on the vacuum actuator (Fig. 4), until the slack is removed.

6. VENTILATOR D O O R ADJUSTMENT

For efficient heater operation the ventilator door

(4) Tighten the vacuum actuator mounting screws securely.

RADIO AND ANTENNA

Chrysler models for 1964 are equipped, as optional equipment, with fully transistorized AM radio model 348. Available, as optional equipment, are fully transistorized AM-FM radios model 357 for

Imperial and 351 for Chrysler. Also available, as optional equipment is AM Search-Tune radio model

414 for Imperial or model 415 for Chrysler.

Radio Controls

On the push button radios, tuning is controlled by five push buttons and the manual tuning knob is to the right of the radio dial. On the search tuned radios Models 414 and 415 the tuning is controlled manually by five push buttons and the tuning knob. The search tuning is controlled by two additional push buttons and a foot switch.

The volume, tone and the on-off switch are controlled by the dual knob to the left of the radio dial. The rear speaker fader control (if so equipped) and the tuning knob are located to the right of the radio dial. If the vehicle is equipped with a radio speaker reverberator, the reverberator control on the instrument panel replaces the fader control.

Pull the reverberator control "OUT" to turn "On" the reverberator unit. Push the control "IN" to turn

"Off" the reverberator and give normal fader control operation.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. R A D I O

CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with the speaker detached since damage to the transistors may result. If the rear seat speaker is disconnected from the r|dio, insert a jumper wire to the rear seat speaker socket to allow the receiver to operate. lead and the foot selector switch lead (if so equipped).

(7) Remove the radio control knobs and shaft mounting nuts.

(8) Remove the radio to dash support brackets and remove the radio through the opening in the instrument panel.

R e m o v a l (Chrysler!

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the upper and lower instrument panel mouldings.

(3) Remove the speaker grille.

(4) Remove the speaker and mounting plate attaching screws.

(5) Disconnect the speaker leads and remove the speaker assembly.

(6) Disconnect the "A" lead, light lead, antenna

Removal (Imperial)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the four screws that attach the ash receiver assembly to the instrument panel.

(3) Lower the ash receiver assembly and disconnect the turn signal flasher and the ash receiver lamp wiring.

(4) Remove the ash receiver assembly.

(5) From under the instrument panel remove the

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1-10 ACCESSORIES—RADIO two screws from the radio to instrument panel lower reinforcement mounting bracket and remove the bracket.

(6) Disconnect the antenna lead, the radio speaker leads and the radio feed wire.

(7) Remove the pencil brace from the instrument panel lower reinforcement to the dash panel. This brace is located just to the left of the radio.

(8) Remove the radio control knobs and mounting nuts from the front of the radio.

(9) Pull the radio out of the panel opening and rotate the radio 90 degrees so the face of the radio is to the right of the vehicle, then carefully remove the radio from under the instrument panel.

2 . R A D I O SPEAKER

R e m o v a l (Chrysler)

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the instrument panel upper and lower mouldings.

(3) Remove the radio speaker grille.

(4) Remove the four radio speaker mounting plate attaching screws.

(5) Pull the speaker and mounting plate away from the instrument panel as an assembly and disconnect the speaker leads. Remove the radio speaker.

Installation ( Chrysler J

(1) Position the radio in the instrument panel and install the radio to panel bracket.

(2) Install the radio control shaft nuts and control knobs.

(3) Connect the radio "A" lead, light lead, antenna lead and the foot selector switch lead (if so equipped).

(4) Connect the speaker leads to the speaker and position the speaker and mounting plate in the instrument panel.

(5) Install the speaker mounting plate screws.

(6) Install the speaker grille.

(7) Install the upper and lower instrument panel mouldings.

(8) Connect the battery ground cable.

(9) Test the operation of the radio.

Removal (Imperial)

(1) Remove the radio as outlined in Paragraph 1.

(2) From under the instrument panel remove the screws that attach the defroster nozzles to the radio speaker and defroster outlet grille assembly. There is one screw on each of the defroster nozzles.

(3) From the top of the instrument panel remove the six screws that attach the radio speaker and defroster outlet grille assembly to the instrument panel and remove the grille assembly.

(4) From the top of the instrument panel remove the four screws that attach the radio speaker t( the instrument panel.

(5) Remove the radio speaker from under the instrument panel.

Installation (Imperial)

(1) Position the radio into the instrument panel opening from under the instrument panel.

(2) Install the mounting nuts and radio control knobs from the front of the radio.

(3) Install the pencil brace from the instrument panel lower reinforcement to the dash panel.

(4) Connect the antenna lead, the radio speaker and feed wires.

(5) From under the instrument panel install the radio to instrument panel lower reinforcement mounting bracket.

(6) Position the ash receiver in front of the instrument panel opening and connect the turn signal flasher and ash receiver lamp wiring.

(7) Install the ash receiver assembly.

(8) Connect the battery ground cable.

Installation (Chrysler)

(1) Position the radio speaker and speaker mounting plate in front of the speaker opening and connect the radio speaker leads.

(2) Position the radio speaker and speaker mounting plate in the instrument panel opening and install the four attaching screws.

(3) Install the radio speaker grille.

(4) Install the instrument panel upper and lower mouldings.

(5) Connect the battery ground cable.

Installation (Imperial)

(1) From under the instrument panel position the radio speaker into the speaker opening in the instrument panel.

(2) From the top of the instrument install the four screws that attach the radio speaker to the instrument panel.

(3) Position the radio speaker and defroster outle*' grille on the top of the instrument panel and instal the six attaching screws.

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ACCESSORIES—RADIO 1-11

(4) From under the instrument panel install the defroster nozzles and install the attaching screws.

(5) Install the radio as outlined in Paragraph 1.

(6) Connect the battery ground cable. the tone control to maximum treble (fully clockwise).

(5) Adjust the antenna trimmer by carefully tuning it back and forth until the position is found that gives a peak response in volume. Maximum output indicates the proper point of antenna trimmer adjustment.

3 . PUSH BUTTONS

Adjustment

(1) Extend the antenna fully and turn the radio on for fifteen minutes.

(2) Unlock the push button by pulling it out and manually tune in the desired station.

(3) Push the button back into position to lock the adjustment.

(4) Repeat the operation on the other push buttons.

L o c a l and Distant Push Buttons

Local push button will tune the receiver to only strong signal stations. Distant push button will tune the receiver to most of the stations within range of the radio. For weak stations, manual control should be used for precise tuning.

6 . FADER C O N T R O L

This control is used only when the vehicle is equipped with a rear seat speaker. Positioning the control in one extreme position allows operation of the rear seat speaker. Rotating the control to the extreme opposite position allows both speakers to operate with varying volume as desired, or with equal volume at mid-position. If the vehicle is equipped with a radio speaker reverberator the reverberator control on the instrument panel replaces the fader control. Pull the reverberator control "OUT" to turn

"ON" the reverberator unit. Push the control " I N " to turn "OFF" the reverberator and give normal fader control operation.

On the 414-415 Models, a five position switch speaker fader control is used in conjunction with the rear speaker. This feature provides an extremely wide range of sound level variation between the front and rear compartments without the usual degree of precise tuning required of the normal variable controls.

4 . F O O T SWITCH FOR SEARCH T U N I N G

The foot switch for search tuning, on Models 414 and 415 is located on the left forward end of the floor panel. By depressing the foot switch, it will select a station on the radio.

The foot switch activates the tuner mechanism in the same manner as the search-tuning buttons "(LOC and DIST)". Therefore, the foot switch will cause the search-tuner to operate at a sensitivity predetermined by which of the two search-tuning buttons was last depressed.

5 . A N T E N N A TRIMMER ADJUSTMENT

All radios are pre-trimmed by the radio manufacturer and no further adjustment is required for all original radio installations equipped with front fender mounted antennas. Original radio installations equipped with rear mounted power antennas require a trimmer adjustment because of the use of the antenna lead-in cable extension. After a radio has been repaired, a trimmer adjustment should always be performed. Trimmer adjustments are performed as follows:

(1) Operate the radio for 15 minutes.

(2) Extend the antenna to 40 inches.

(3) Manually tune the radio to noise or a weak signal between 1400 and 1600 K.C. For AM-FM radio tune to noise below 1000 K.C.

(4) Increase the radio volume to full volume and

7. INTERFERENCE ELIMINATION

When installing suppression items, make certain that all paint and dirt have been removed from the grounding area between the capacitors and the engine or body components. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.

The high tension portion of the engine ignition system uses radio resistance wire as standard equipment.

The ignition coil capacitor is installed, as shown in Figure 1.

CAPACITOR " 5 7 x 4 3 9 B

Fig. 1—Ignition Coil Capacitor

1-12 ACCESSORIES—RADIO

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ELECTRIC A N T E N N A LOCATING TEMPLATE

RIGHT FRONT FENDER M O U N T

2 - 1 / 4 "

LOCATE THIS LINE

O N FENDER H O O D

OPENING

64 x 127

Fig.

2— Antenna Location (Imperial)

, The alternator is equipped with an internal interference capacitor which is integral with the output stud.

8 . M A N U A L ANTENNA Hi so equipped)

Removal

(1) On the front fender antenna equipped models

(Figs. 2 and 3) unplug the antenna lead-ih wire from the radio set at instrument panel. On rear mounted antennas, unplug the antenna short lead from the extension cable at the "Y" connector located in the trunk compartment.

(2) Lower the antenna.

(3) Remove the plastic cap and nut attaching the antenna to the rear wheel housing.

(4) Remove the nut, plastic adapter, gasket and ground collar.

(5) Remove the antenna assembly.

When installing the antenna, care should be taken to route the lead-in cable over the glove box compartment to allow for ample cable length when plugging the lead-in cable into the radio receptacle.

Installation

(1) Install the antenna rod, lower adapter and mount the, antenna to quarter panel or front fender.

(2) Install the gasket, upper adapter and attaching nut.

, (3) Tighten the attaching nut and install the nut plastic cap.

(4) Install the lead-in cable to " Y " connector on rear mounted antenna or in the radio set on front fender mounted models.

(5) Test the radio for proper operation.

Fig. 3—Antenna Location (Chrysler)

63x411

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ACCESSORIES—RADIO 1-13

9 . ELECTRIC A N T E N N A

The power operated radio antenna (Fig.

4) used on

Chrysler and Imperial vehicles is a telescoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a coiled nylon cord actuated by a two direction electric motor. The main components of the power antenna are the motor and drive assembly, the mast assembly and the support tube assembly. The antenna is serviced as a mast assembly, motor and the drive assembly, connector, pad and pin assembly, lead-in assembly and the necessary switches.

Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections.

This may be performed when the vehicle is being washed by cleaning the antenna mast sections with a clean soft cloth. In the winter, wipe the clean antenna sections with a cloth moistened with light oil.

If the antenna fails to operate satisfactorily, the problems can be divided into two general categories:

(a) reception and (b) operational.

(a) Weak, intermittent, noisy, or no reception:

Generally caused by a broken lead-in wire, poor connection, faulty insulation or the mast or lead-in wire, or moisture in the antenna body tube.

(b) Failure of the antenna to raise or lower: Generally can be traced to a blown fuse, faulty electrical connections at the switch or switch lead terminals, bent antenna mast rods, or a faulty motor and drive assembly.

Before an antenna is removed, the antenna performance should be tested to determine whether it is a reception problem or an operational problem.

Fig. 4—Electric Antenna proper adjustment of the radio antenna trimmer. If this fails to produce the desired results, a substitute antenna known to be satisfactory may be plugged into the radio with the extended mast held out of the car window. (Do not ground the mast.)

Upon establishing that the fault is in the antenna assembly, it may be traced to one or more of the following conditions:

(a) Broken lead-in wire or shielding.

(b) Grounded lead-in wire or mast assembly.

(c) Moisture in the support tube or lead-in assembly.

(4) Poor connection (antenna lead-in assembly or shielding ground).

The preliminary test may indicate that removing the antenna from the vehicle is necessary for further testing, repairs or parts replacement. In this event, follow the procedure for antenna removal. 10. TESTS

Clean the antenna and drive assembly before test or disassembly.

(1) With a source of 12 volt (D.C.) power, test the operation of the drive mechanism by grounding the negative (—) lead to the drive housing and with the positive ( + ) lead, contact the "yellow" (up) lead terminal to extend the antenna, and contact the

"brown" (down) lead terminal to retract the antenna.

If the motor will not operate, replace the motor and drive assembly. If the motor runs freely and the antenna does not extend or retract, the mast assembly is at fault and should be replaced by a new mast.

If the motor labors and the antenna extends and retracts very slowly, it may be caused by excessive dirt on the telescoping sections or bent telescoping mast rods. Clean and straighten the telescoping mast rods.

(2) Sometimes poor reception can be corrected by

Removal

(1) Fully lower the antenna.

(2) Disconnect the motor leads at the connectors.

(3) Disconnect the antenna lead-in wire at the antenna.

(4) Remove the antenna mounting escutcheon nut.

Remove the fender shield lower hole cover.

(5) Remove the nut attaching the drive housing to the antenna lower mounting bracket.

(6) Remove the antenna assembly, being careful not to bend the mast rod.

Installation

(1) Install the antenna and connect the leads.

NOTE: On care should be taken to route the rear antenna cable around the

the field installed dual rear antennas,

rear wheel housing behind the trunk liner

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1-14 ACCESSORIES—RADIO to the " Y " connector located behind the rear slot in the luggage compartment so as to avoid interference from the hinges when opening and closing the lid.

(2) Test the radio operation.

Bench test for Reception Malfunction

(a) With the test lamp and battery in the circuit attach one test lead to the concentric pin on the

"lead-in" connector and the other test lead to the mast sections. The lamp should "light" indicating continuity.

(b) Keeping the one lead on the connector pin, clip the other lead on the antenna support tube assembly. The lamp should "not light". If it does, look for a ground between the mast and support tube or inner conductor from the pin and pad.

(c) Remove the clip lead from the connector pin and clip it on the outer sheel of the connector. Connect the other clip lead to the antenna support tube assembly. The lamp should "light" again. If it does not "light", the antenna shielding has an open circuit.

(d) Locate the ground or open circuit and repair or replace component parts as required.

NOTE: DO NOT attempt to service the details of the Motor and Drive Assembly. This sub-assembly must be serviced as a complete unit.

1 1 . M O T O R A N D DRIVE O R MAST

ASSEMBLY

R e m o v a l

(1) Remove the (2) two screws holding the "leadin" receptacle.

(2) Unsolder the pin from the wire.

(3) Remove the (3) screws which hold the support tube to the motor and drive assembly.

(4) Holding the motor and drive assembly in one hand and the support tube in the other hand, pull

(applying back and forth rotary motion at the same time) until the support tube assembly is removed from antenna.

(5) Holding the motor and drive assembly in one hand and mast assembly in the other hand (grasp near bottom of mast assembly), rock the mast assembly back and forth and pull at the same time. This will remove the insulator bushing from tubular fitting and outer mast section from the remainder of antenna assembly.

(6) Apply 12 volts D.C. to the "yellow" (up) power lead and ground, until the entire length of the nylon cord has been expelled from the drive. To prevent a kink or bend in the nylon cord, keep it taut by pulling on the mast.

Fig. 5—Removing Bottom Insulator and Water

Seal Washer

CAUTION: DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE MO-

TOR AND DRIVE ASSEMBLY FOR ANY PURPOSE.

In order to remove the nylon cord from the disabled motor and drive assembly, place the assembly in a vise so that the normal plane of the nylon cord is parallel with the floor, then using both hands pull on the nylon cord until it is completely expelled from the drive.

(7) Remove the bottom insulator and water seal washer (Fig. 5) from the tubular fitting using a wire hook and long nose pliers.

Installation

(1) If the original mast assembly is reused, thread the nylon cord through the bottom insulator with the tubular projection down (Fig. 6). Then thread the nylon cord through the water seal washers.

NOTE: The bottom insulator and water seal washer are included on the service replacement mast assembly.

SUPPORT t U H 62x334

Fig. 6—Assembling Power Antenna

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ACCESSORIES—RADIO T-15

(6) Solder the hook-up wire to the pin.

(7) Assemble the lead-in receptacle with the (2) screws.

(8) Apply 12 volt power to the "yellow" and

"brown" antenna leads and test for up and down operation.

Fig.

7— Installing Mast Support

(2) Apply 12 volts D.C. to the "brown" (down) power lead and ground. Feed approximately 12 inches

M the nylon cord into the drive. Push the water seal asher and bottom insulator all the way down into the tubular fitting. Apply 12 volt D.C. power until nylon cord disappears.

(3) Push the outer mast section down into the tubular fitting. Make sure that the upper edge of the flange on the insulator bushing is below center of the

3 holes in the tubular fitting.

(4) Install the support tube assembly in proper position making sure the hook-up wire is extended through the large hole in the body (Fig. 7).

(5) Install the (3) screws to attach the support tube assembly to the motor and drive assembly.

1 2 . A M - F M R A D I O ( I f so e q u i p p e d )

The AM-FM radio allows reception of both AM-

FM broadcast frequencies. To select AM or FM reception move the selector slide bar (Fig.

8) to the desired position. The tuning knob and the On-Off and Volume control knob operate in the same manner as the standard AM radio.

The following items should be noted for proper

AM-FM radio operation:

(1) If antenna trimming is required, tune the radio dial below 1000 K.C. (about 960 K.C.) with selector slide bar in the AM position.

(2) The antenna should be extended to a height of

31 inches for maximum FM reception.

(3) The radio push button adjustment is the same as the standard AM radio. It should be noted that a push button adjustment is only good for one station

(either AM or FM) not both at the same time.

FRONT SPEAKER TERMINALS

AM-FM SELECTOR SLIDE BAR

RADIO CONTROL KNOBS 6 4 x 1 6 9

Fig, 8—AM-FM Radio Fig.

9— Reverberator Installation

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R4 18

~ W W -

REVERB UNIT

R5 150K

— W W

2N573

AF AMP

2N176

PWR AMP o

X jjlQQMF

CI T

1Q0MF

R7 1.2K

— W W

- W W —

*R10 3.3

: C2A

500MF

R l l 470

— A / W —

^ C2B

50OMF

I

°

CAUTION

"A" LEAD MUST BE CONNECTED TO POSITIVE 1+) SIDE OF

POWER SUPPLY. UNIT WILL NOT OPERATE AND DAMAGE

TO COMPONENTS WILL RESULT IF CONNECTED OTHERWISE.

BASE

©

EMITTER,

COLLECTOR (p

BASE

2N573 CONN 2N176 CONN

BOT VIEW

ON-OFF SW

COLLECTOR

REAR

SPKR

REVERB REAR SPKR

S I OPEN CLOSED

S2 "A" " B "

S3 CLOSED OPEN

S4 CLOSED OPEN

SHAFT OUT

SHAFT IN

REVERB SHAFT POSITION

NOTES:

CAPACITORS - Unless otherwise specified.

Values less than one in MF; all others in MMF.

VOLTAGES - Measured from point indicated to ground with a VTVM, + 1 0 * No signal In.

INPUT VOLTAGE - 13.2V DC

* T h e exact value to be determined by production process.

Replace with the same value of the original part.

All switches shown In rear spkr position

6 4 x 1 6 7

Fig. 10-^Reverberator Wiring Diagram

> n n m in

O o

O m

r

5

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IOOOKC

J5X

2091241-16

C23

I60PF

±10%

H h

IOOOKC

6 P I

9J!

C28

330PF;

ORANGE

WHITE ^

C27

S N470

[ j t

n F

io%

GREEK!

YELLOW

C3A

C26

16V

L3 >

BLUE

?56K

270K

RED

+2.0V

2.2K

10%

-C5

.0I

I00K

I8K

10%

CONV

+9.0V

CONVERTER

2091241-17

50.

3V+I0.2V

+ IOJV

NOTES'-

ALL RESISTANCE IN OHMS, 1/2 WATT, ANO ±20% TOLERANCE UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.

K-IOOO

ALL CAPACITANCE IN MICROFARADS (UF), 100 VOLTS MINIMUM, AND ±20% TOLERANCE

UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. PF-MICROMICROFARADS. GMV-6UARANTEED MINIMUM

VALUE.

TUNING RANGE FROM 535KC TO 1605KC. IF FREQUENCY 262.5KC.

DUMMY ANTENNA:

40PF SERIES AND 40PF SHUNT AT ANTENNA SOCKET,

BASE ELEMENTS FOR GAIN MEASUREMENTS.

0.1 UF SERIES TO TRANSISTOR

VOLTAGE MEASUREMENTS".

1. ALL DC VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH A 20,000 OHMS/VOLT METER. NO SIGNAL INPUT.

2. ALL AC VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH AN AC VTVM.AT FULL VOLUME, I WATT OUTPUT,

3. ALL VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH RESPECT TO CHASSIS EXCEPT WHERE NOTED.

4. ALL VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH +13.2VOLTS INPUT WITH NEGATIVE TERMINAL

GROUNDED. /

ALL AC-POWERED TEST EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE GROUNDED

IOOOKC TO 262.5 KC

95X

262.5 KC TO 400%

R»8

.008V,400% ACROSS RI8

FOR I WATT OUTPUT

PREORIVER

2092609-

P4A

(JUMPER,OMIT WHEN USING

REAR SEAT SPEAKER)

REAR

SPEAKER

LS2

,9MH

0.35A

///////

C2I

280 c Q TO PANEL LIGHTS

^ ^ 3 +13.2 V

6 4 x 1 4 5

> n n m in to o

> m 1

Fig. 11-Radio Model 348

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• © • - 0 . I 2 5 V RAAS 4001/ @ I WATT

YELLOW

NOTES:

ALL RESISTANCE IN OHMS. 1/2WATT 120% TOLERANCE

UNLESS OTHERWISE STATEO. K-IOOO , M-MEGOHM.

ALL CAPACITANCE IN MICROMICROFARAOS. 100 VOLTS MIN.

AND 120% TOLERANCE UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.

TUNING RANGE FROM 530KC TO I605KC.

MEASUREMENTS-

A. VOLTAGE MEASURED AS FOLLOWS:

1. I3.2V0LTS INPUT. NEGATIVE TERMINAL GROUNDED.

2. VOLUME CONTROL MAXIMUM (FULL CLOCKWISE).

TONE CONTROL IN NORMAL POSITION AS SHOWN

(FULL CLOCKWISE WHEN VIEWED FROM FRONT).

RELAY IN V (LISTEN) POSITION AS SHOWN.

NO RF SIGNAL INPUT.

VOLTAGES MARKEO WITH ASTERISK (*)

MEASURED WITH VTVM, ALL OTHER DC

VOLTAGES MEASURED WITH A 20.000

OHMS/VOLT METER.

B. VOLTAGE SHOWN IN PARENTHESIS ARE MEASURED

AS IN "A" ABOVE EXCEPT THAT RELAY IS IN

THE "S" (SEARCH) POSITION.

C. VOLTAGES SHOULD BE WITHIN 120%

OF VALUES SHOWN.

D. SENSITIVITIES ARE MEASURED AS FOLLOWS*.

1. USING A 40UUF SERIES AND 40UUF SHUNT

DUMMY ANTENNA FOR MEASURING ANTENNA

SENSITIVITY. (FOR ALL OTHER MEASUREMENTS

FEED THE SIGNAL GENERATOR OUTPUT

THROUGH A O.IUF CAPACITOR.)

2. WITH 400CPS.30% MODULATION OF R.F.

ANO I F SIGNALS.

3. FOR I WATT OUTPUT AT SPEAKER TERMINALS.

(CONNECT OUTPUT METER TO FRONT SPEAKER LEADS.)

Fig. 13—Radio Models 414 and 415

P4I

63x412 A

O r

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1 -20 ACCESSORIES—RADIO

(4) Should a malfunction occur, the trouble shooting procedures are the same as for the standard AM radio.

1 3 . R A D I O SPEAKER REVERBERATOR

(If s o e q u i p p e d )

The radio speaker reverberator is used to produce a time delay of .025 to .030 seconds in the radio output to the rear seat speaker. The reverberator does not cause any time delay in the radio output to the front speaker. Due to the "time difference" of the radio output between the front and rear speakers an "echo" is produced which gives the effect of

"Stereo" sound reproduction in the vehicle.

The reverberator consists of the reverberator unit

(mounted in the luggage compartment), the instrument panel switch and the wiring from the switch to the reverberator unit (Fig. 9). The reverberator is an independently powered unit and has its voltage supply separate from the voltage supply to the radio.

To operate the reverberator turn the radio "ON" and tune the radio to the desired station. Pull the instrument panel reverberator switch "out" and then rotate the switch until the desired volume level between the front and rear speakers is achieved. With the reverberator switch "in" normal fader control action between the front and rear speakers is achieved by rotating the reverberator control knob until the desired volume level between the two speakers is established.

For service the reverberator unit is divided in two parts (Fig. 10):

(1) Delay Line.

This item cannot be repaired, it must be serviced as an assembly.

(2) Amplifier Section.

This item is serviced using normal radio trouble shooting procedures.

1 4 . W I R I N G D I A G R A M S

Refer to Figures 11 through 13 for the radio wiring diagrams.

Fig. 1—Remote Control Mirror Assembly

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ACCESSORIES—MIRROR—WASHER 1-21

REMOTE CONTROL OUTSIDE MIRROR

The remote control outside mirror is controlled by stainless steel wires attached to wobble plates and a lever within the mirror assembly ana is operated by a toggle lever located on the instrument panel (Fig. 1)

Adjustment of the mirror to meet driving requirements can be made without moving from the normal driving position.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. REMOTE CONTROL

MIRROR-REPLACEMENT

R e m o v a l

(1) Remove the toggle lever assembly bezel.

(2) Remove the (2) screws attaching the mirror to the finder.

(3) Remove the mirror, gasket, cable and lever assembly.

Installation

(1) Install the gasket, mirror and cable assembly in the fender opening.

(2) Route the cable and lever assembly up through the body to the instrument panel opening.

(3) Attach the bezel to the cover assembly and tighten.

(4) Test and adjust the operation of the mirror.

WINDSHIELD WASHER

The windshield washers are operated by an electric motor driven pump to which fluid is gravity fed from a plastic reservoir. The motor is operated by depressing a small button in the center of the windshield wiper knob.

1. N O Z Z L E ADJUSTMENT

Chrysler

Adjustment of the nozzle may be made by inserting a small screwdriver into the cowl opening grille and bending the nozzle.

Imperial

Adjustment of the nozzle may be made by using a screw driver to rotate the nozzle jets "up" and

"down".

Adjust the nozzles so that the centers of the streams contact the windshield glass, as shown in

Figures 1 and 2.

NOTE: The oval pattern formed by the stream striking the windshield glass is not "centered" on the center of the stream. The stream center is toward the bottom of the oval pattern.

12 INCHES CENTER O F WINDSHIELD

1 1

I N C

H E S

CENTER O F . WINDSHIELD

MEASURE D O W N FROM BOTTOM

O F WINDSHIELD MOULDING

6-V2 INCHES

64x151

Fig. 1—Aiming Requirements (Imperial)

MEASURE D O W N FROM BOTTOM

O F WINDSHIELD MOULDING

6-V2 INCHES

6 4 x 1 5 0

Fig. 2—Aiming Requirements (Chrysler)

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1 -22 ACCESSORIES—DIAGNOSIS

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

A U T O - P I L O T

N O T E : It Is recommended t h a t t h e diagnosis be performed in t h e sequence o u t l i n e d .

If diagnosis shows t h e t r o u b l e to be a n i n t e r n a l A u t o - P i l o t C o n t r o l U n i t c o n d i t i o n , it is recommended t h a t t h e u n i t be replaced. Do not a t t e m p t a n y i n t e r n a l service on t h e control u n i t .

Condition Possible C a u s e Correction

A u t o - P i lot C o n t r o l Blown fuse.

B u t t o n Does Not

R e m a i n O u t w i t h Poor electrical connections

Ignition O n to the control.

(c) Faulty control unit.

No "Speed W a r n i n g " Blown fuse or defective wiring

Pedal Pressure in motor circuit (red wire).

(b) Accelerator linkage broken or disconnected.

"Speed W a r n i n g " Faulty electrical circuit.

Pedal Pressure a t

All Speeds ( i n c l u d i n g below 22 miles per h o u r )

A u t o m a t i c L a t c h i n g Does Insufficient brake switch

Not Engage W h e n B u t t o n clearance. is Pulled O u t .

"Speed

W a r n i n g " O . K .

Brake pedal not returning fully.

(c) Faulty electrical circuit.

(a) Replace the fuse.

(b) Test the connections and the instrument panel control for grounding.

(c) Replace the control unit if necessary.

(a) Test wiring circuits. See

"Electrical Tests".

(b) Connect or replace the linkage and adjust.

(a) See "Electrical Tests" (Red Wire)-

(a) Adjust auto-pilot brake switch.

(b) Test brake pedal for full return.

Adjust or repair as necessary.

(c) See "Electrical Tests" (Blue and Black Wires).

(a) Test the circuit for ground and repair if necessary. (Black Wire). Engages a t Selected

Speed w i t h C o n t r o l

B u t t o n Pushed I n . is grounded.

(b) Faulty grounding switch in the instrument panel control.

A u t o m a t i c L a t c h R e m a i n s Faulty or improperly adjusted

Engaged W h e n B r a k e brake switch.

Pedal is T o u c h e d

(b) Test at No.

3 terminal. Replace control unit if necessary.

(a) Test and adjust the brake switch.

Replace if necessary.

I n t e r m i t t e n t l y on

Rough Roads

Not F u n c t i o n a t

Low E n d of Dial

(b) Insufficient brake switch clearance. adjustment.

(a) See "Electrical Tests" (Black and Blue Wires).

(b) Adjust brake switch to specifications.

(a) Adjust control cable. See

Paragraph 6.

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ACCESSORIES—DIAGNOSIS 1-23

A U T O - P I L O T — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Condition P o s s i b l e C a u s e

P u l s a t i n g Accelerator Speedometer cable or drive

Pedal

(b)

(c) cable kinked.

Lack of cable lubrication.

Improper accelerator linkage adjustment.

C a r b u r e t o r Does Not Improper auto-pilot linkage

R e t u r n to N o r m a l Idle adjustment.

(b) Standard throttle linkage defective.

Speedometer Does Not

Register or U n i t

Does Not Operate

(a) Speedometer drive pinion in transmission is defective.

(b)

(c)

(d)

Faulty speedometer cable.

Faulty drive cable from transmission to the auto-pilot drive mechanism.

Faulty speedometer.

Speedometer Noise

U n i t Repeatedly

Blowing F u s e s

(a) Cables bent or kinked.

(b) Lack of cable lubrication.

(c) Noisy speedometer head assembly.

(a) Short circuit in wiring, auto-pilot, or switches.

Correction

(a) Straighten and align the cables.

Replace if necessary.

(b) Lubricate the cables.

(c) Adjust the accelerator linkage.

(a) Adjust the auto-pilot control rod.

(b) Repair or replace the linkage.

(a) Replace the speedometer drive pinion.

(b) Replace the speedometer cable.

(c) Replace the drive cable.

(d) Repair or replace the speedometer if necessary.

(a) Straighten or replace the cables.

(b) Lubricate the cables.

(c) Repair or replace the speedometer as necessary.

(a) See "Electrical Tests".

C l o c k Does Not Operate

Insufficient Heat

ELECTRIC C L O C K

(a) Wire connector not on clock terminal.

(b) Internal short.

(a) Connect wire to terminal.

(b) Remove clock and repair as necessary.

HOT WATER HEATER

(a) Coolant too low.

(b) Temperature valve not opening.

(c) Engine thermostat open.

(d) Damaged vacuum line to shut-off damper.

(e) Obstructed heater hose.

(f) Leaking lower radiator hose.

(a) Fill the radiator.

(b) Inspect the valve and repair as needed. Test the bowden cable adjustment.

(c) Replace the thermostat.

(d) Replace the vacuum line.

(e) Replace the heater hose.

(f) Correct the leak, and bleed the system.

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1 -24—ACCESSORIES—DIAGNOSIS

Radio is Noisy When

Equipment is Operated

Radio Reception is

Distorted

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

HOT WATER H E A T E R — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Condition

Possible C a u s e

Too M u c h Heat (a) Temperature valve stuck i n open position.

(b) Disengaged cable.

Blower M o t o r n o t Operating (a) Blown fuse.

(b) Faulty electrical connection.

(d) Faulty motor.

Radio is Inoperative

R A D I O

(a) Blown fuse.

(b) Broken, loose or shorted antenna lead-in.

(d) Burned out transistor.

(e) Faulty speaker.

(f) Faulty antenna.

Radio Reception is Weak

Radio Reception is Noisy

(Engine R u n n i n g )

(a) Unbalanced antenna trimmer.

(b) Loose antenna lead-in.

(d) Weak radio transistor.

(e) Faulty antenna.

(a) Outside electrical interferences.

(b) Insufficient or faulty radio capacitors.

Radio Reception is Noisy

(Car i n M o t i o n )

(a) Static build up in tires.

(b) Loose antenna or lead-in wire.

(a)

(b)

Loose antenna ground.

Speaker coil rubbing on voice core.

Torn speaker cone.

Correction

(a) Free up the temperature valve and cable.

(b) Connect or replace the cable.

(a) Replace the fuse.

(b) Tighten all electrical connections.

(d) Replace the motor.

(a) Replace the fuse.

(b) Test with an auxiliary antenna and

( f ) replace lead-in if necessary.

(d) Test all transistors and replace as necessary.

(e) Replace the speaker.

Test the antenna and repair.

(a) Adjust the antenna trimmer.

(b) Tighten the antenna lead-in.

(d) Test and replace weak transistors.

(e) Test the antenna and correct.

(a) Move the vehicle or eliminate interference.

(b) Install capacitors in ignition system.

(a) Ground the tires to the wheels with powdered graphite.

(b) Tighten the antenna attaching nut. Inspect the fit of the antenna lead-in plug in the socket.

(a) Clean and tighten the antenna connections.

(a) Install an auxiliary speaker and compare. Replace if improved.

(b) Replace the speaker.

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ACCESSORIES—DIAGNOSIS 1-25

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

R A D I O

Possible Cause Condition Correction

S e a r c h T u n e r R u n s Move the vehicle to a strong

C o n t i n u o u s l y

(b) signal area. signal area.

Faulty radio transistor.

(b) transistors.

(b)

(c)

Test with a substitute antenna.

Repair the lead-in wire.

Repair the lead-in wire or replace replace as necessary.

Unable to adjust Mirror

REMOTE CONTROL OUTSIDE MIRROR

(a) Control cables twisted.

(b) Cable or cables broken.

(a) Loosen main cable assembly and realign for free operation.

(b) Replace mirror assembly.

WINDSHIELD WASHER

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

Corroded terminals.

Broken wires.

Faulty switch.

Faulty motor.

(f)

Poor ground.

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

( f )

Tighten tne terminals.

Clean and tighten the terminals.

Repair or replace the wires.

Replace the wiper switch assembly.

Replace the motor and pump assembly.

Clean the pump housing and tighten the mounting screws.

P u m p Does Not Operate (a)

Motor R u n s

(b) Faulty pump.

(a)

(b)

Replace the motor and pump assembly.

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FRONT SUSPENSION 2-1

GROUP 2

FRONT SUSPENSION

CONTENTS

Page Page

Tool List. . . . 1 Upper Ball Joints 6

Preparation for Measuring Front End Alignment...... 2 Lower Control Arm and Shaft 8

Front Suspension Height Adjustment 3

CAMBER

Left

Right

CASTER

Manual Steering

Power Steering

HEIGHT

All models

Side to Side Difference (Maximum)

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION.

T O E - I N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

TREAD

Front (inches).

Rear (inches). .

WHEEL BASE (inches)

SPECIFICATIONS

VC-1, VC-2, VC-3 VY-1

+ to f %° (Preferred + V2

)

0° to

+ V2

(Preferred

+ V

A°)

0 ° t o - l °

+ 14° to

2 inches ±

inch

5V2° to7V2°

inch to

¥zi

inch (Preferred

inch)

21 V2

when Inner Wheel is 20°

60.9

59.7

122

61.7

62.2

129

T O O L LIST

C-3556 Lower Control Arm Shaft Installer (VC-1-2-3)

C-3557 Lower Control Arm Shaft Installer (VY-1)

C-3560 . Ball Joint Remover (VC-1 -2-3)

C-3561 Ball Joint Remover (VY-1)

C-3564 Ball Joint Stud Remover

C-3608 Height and Level Gauge

C-3669 Upper Control Arm Bushing Installer

SP-3233A. . .Adapter—Makes Tool C-3710 with Tool C-3669

C-3710 Upper Control Arm Bushing Remover and Installer

SP-3826 Adapter used in place of SP-3088

SP-3827 Adapter Bushing Support Sleeve—Installer

C-3736.

. Bail Joint Seal Installer (VC-1-2-3)

C-3867. . . Ball Joint Seal Installer (VY-1)

C-3894. Tie Rod End Remover

C-3895 Height and Level Gauge

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2-2 FRONT SUSPENSION

TORQUE REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds Inch-Pounds

BALL JOINT IN CONTROL ARMS (VC - 1 , VC -2, VC -3) 125 (min.)

JOINTS IN CONTROL ARM (VY -1) 150 (min.)

LOWER BALL JOINT STUD NUT.

115

UPPER BALL JOINT STUD NUT % (VC - 1 , V C - 2 , V C - 3 ) . 100

% (VY -1) 135

LOWER CONTROL ARM

Bumper Nut.

. . . 200

Shaft Nut—Outer % (VC -1, VC -2, VC -3). 180

% (VY -1) 200

Inner % . . 100

Strut Bolt Nut. . . . . . . .

100

Strut Bushing Nut.

UPPER CONTROL ARM

Bumper Nut 200

Support Bracket Cam Bolt N u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

S W A Y ELIMINATOR SHAFT

Cushion Retainer Bolt Nut 35

Frame Bracket Screws.

150

Link Nut 100

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS

Upper Mounting Nut 25

Lower Mounting Nut . 55

STEERING KNUCKLE TO STEERING KNUCKLE ARM NUT 80

STEERING KNUCKLE TO BRACKET SUPPORT BOLT.

FRONT SUSPENSION

All ball joints, tie rod ends and the torsion bars at the front of the rear anchors are effectively sealed against road splash by tightly fitted balloon type special ball check is installed in the remaining portion of the fitting to prevent foreign materials from passing through the fitting. \ flexible seals. The ball joints are of the semipermanent lubricated type and should not under normal operating conditions require lubrication with the special lubricant before 32,000 miles.

Lower ball joints should not be replaced for looseness if the axial end play (Up and Down movement) is under .050". Looseness of this nature is not detrimental and will not affect front end alignment.

The tie rod end seals and protectors should be inspected at all oil change periods. The tie rod end seals and seal protectors are serviced separately.

When re-lubrication of the ball joints and tie rod ends is required, it is necessary to remove the plugs from the assembly and install grease fittings. After the lubrication is completed, remove the grease fittings and reinstall the plugs.

NOTE: A l l service replacement ball joints are equipped with a "Knock-off" type lubrication fitting.

After the ball joint has been lubricated with specified lubricant, knock off that portion of the lubrication fitting over which the grease gun was installed. A

N O T E : R U B B E R BUSHINGS S H O U L D NOT B E

L U B R I C A T E D A T A N Y T I M E . When replacement of a bushing is necessary, water may be used to aid in installation.

S E R V I C E P R O C E D U R E S

1. PREPARATION FOR M E A S U R I N G depending on the type of equipment being used. The

FRONT END ALIGNMENT instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the

The method of measuring alignment will vary equipment should always be followed, however, the

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FRONT SUSPENSION 2-3 specifications as recommended by Chrysler Corpora* tion should always be followed.

All measurements and adjustments should be made in the following order:

Front suspension Height

Caster and Camber

Toe-in

Steering Axis Inclination

Toe-Out on Turns

The measurement of steering axis inclination and toe-out on turns is valuable in determining if parts are bent, or damaged. Bent or damaged suspension and steering linkage parts must he replaced. Do not attempt to modify any of these parts by heating and bending. When replacements of this kind are made, it is important that other front end parts are inspected and front suspension aligned.

Before any attempt is made to measure or correct caster, camber and toe-in, the following preliminary inspections and necessary corrections must be made on those parts which influence the steering of the vehicle.

(1) Inflate tires to recommended pressure. All tires should be the same size, in good condition and have equal wear. Note the type of wear to aid in diagnosing.

(See Group 22, "Wheels, Bearings and Tires").

(2) Inspect the suspension and steering linkage pivot points for excessive looseness; rear springs for proper tightness of "U" bolts and height differential between left and right sides of vehicle. The vehicle should be on a level floor or alignment rack and should have a full fuel tank with no luggage or passenger load.

(3) Adjust the front wheel bearings (See Group 22,

"Wheels, Bearings and Tires"). Measure the front wheel and tire assembly runout (Follow Equipment

Manufacturers Instructions).

(4) To obtain accurate readings, the vehicle should be jounced in the following manner just prior to taking each measurement (Height - Caster - Camber and Toe-In): Grasp the bumpers at the center (rear bumper first) and jounce the vehicle up and down several times. Release the bumpers on the down cycle after jouncing both rear and front of car an equal number of times.

2 . FRONT SUSPENSION

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

Without Using Special Tools

All models 2 inches ± Vs inch with a maximum difference from side to side of Vs inch.

Front suspension heights must be held to specifications for a satisfactory ride, correct appearance, proper front wheel alignment and reduced tire wear.

57 x 267A

Fig. I—Measuring Front Suspension Height

The heights should only be measured when the vehicle has the recommended tire pressures, a full tank of fuel* no passenger load and is placed on a level floor.

(1) Clean all foreign material from the bottom of the lower ball joint assemblies and from the bottom of the lower control arm bushing housings between the flanges of the arms.

(2) Jounce the vehicle several times releasing it on the downward motion.

(3) Measure the distance from the lowest point of one of the lower control arm bushing housings to the floor (measurement A) and from the lowest point of the flat portion on the bottom of the lower ball joint on the same side (measurement B) to the floor

(Fig. 1). Measure only one side at a time. The differential between measurement A and B should be

2 inches ± Vs inch.

(4) Measure the other side in the same manner.

The difference from side to side should be no more than Vs inch.

(5) Adjust if necessary by turning in the torsion bar adjusting bolt to increase the height and backing off the bolt to decrease the height.

(6) After each adjustment, jounce the vehicle before rechecking measurements. Both sides should be measured even though only one side has been adjusted.

Using Height and Level Gauge Tools

The recommendations of the tool equipment manufacturer should always be followed, however, always use the specifications of Chrysler Corporation.

(1) Jounce the vehicle as outlined in Paragraph 1,

Step 4.

(2) The reading on both sides should be 2 inches

± Vs inch, with a maximum side to side difference of

Vs inch for all models.

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2-4 FRONT SUSPENSION

CROSS MEMBER

(2) Prepare the vehicle for measurement as outlined in Paragraph 1.

(3) Take the initial camber and caster readings before loosening the cam bolt nuts.

(4) Camber and caster should be adjusted, if necessary, to the following specifications:

Camber—Left Wheel +

V*° to

A°

(Preferred

+

)

Right Wheel 0 ° to + %° (Preferred +

4 ° )

Caster —Power steering + %° to + VA°

Manual Steering 0° to — 1°

(5) Camber settings should be held as close as possible to the "preferred" setting. Caster should be held as nearly equal as possible on both wheels.

Fig.

2— Torsion Bar Adjustment Holt

(3) Adjust, if necessary, by turning the torsion bar anchor bolt clockwise to increase the height and counter-clockwise to decrease the height (Fig. 2). If it is necessary to adjust the anchor bolts, measure the torque required to move the bolt clockwise. If it requires over 200 foot-pounds, replace the anchor adjusting bolt.

(4) After adjusting, jounce the vehicle and remeasure, even though only one side may have been adjusted.

3 . FRONT S U S P E N S I O N ALIGNMENT

(Camber—Left Wheel + %° to + %° (Preferred

+

V2°)

Right Wheel 0° to +

(Preferred + %°)

(Caster —Power Steering + %° to +

VA°

Manual Steering 0° to — 1°

(Toe-In — %

to %

inch (Preferred Vs inch)

Front suspension alignment settings must be held to specifications to hold tire wear to a minimum and to maintain steering ease and handling of the vehicle.

Alignment measurements should only be taken with the tires inflated to the recommended pressure, no passenger load, correct car height, full tank of fuel, and with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels.

The equipment manufacturers recommended procedure should always be followed. Any parts of the front suspension system should be replaced if they are found to be bent. Do not attempt to straighten any bent part.

Toe-in 3 / 3 2 to 5 / 3 2 fitch

(Preferred 1/8 Inch)

The toe setting should be the final operation of the front wheel alignment adjustments. The front wheels must be in a straight ahead position. Follow the equipment manufacturers procedure. The steering wheel should be centered during this operation.

Turning both tie rod sleeves will "center" the steering wheel. If the steering wheel was centered, make the toe-in adjustment by turning both sleeves an equal amount. Be sure and tighten the clamp in such a position that the bolts are on the bottom, otherwise interference can result.

S E A T

TORSION BAR • ADJUSTING BOLT

Camber and Caster

(1) Remove all foreign material from the exposed threads of the cam adjusting bolts.

60x101 A

Fig. 3—Torsion Bar Rear Support Assembly

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FRONT SUSPENSION 2-5

4 . T O R S I O N BARS

The torsion bars are not interchangeable side for side.

The bars will be indicated as either right or left by an "R" or " L " (right or left hand side) stamped on the end of the bars.

C A U T I O N : If the vehicle is to be raised on a hoist, make sure it is supported so that the front suspension is in full rebound (under no load).

Removal

(1) Place a jack under the center of the front crossmember and raise the vehicle off the floor, so the front suspension is in full rebound (under no load).

(2) Release the load from the torsion bar by backing off the anchor adjusting bolts (Fig. 2). Remove the bolt and swivel and discard.

(3) Remove the plastic seal (Fig. 3) from the rear end of the torsion bar anchor. Remove the lock ring from the rear of the torsion bar anchor (Fig. 4).

(4) Slide the torsion bar toward the rear of the vehicle sufficiently to disengage the forward end from the lower control arm. Slide the torsion bar forward and down, disengaging it from the anchor. Remove the torsion bar from under the vehicle.

Installation

(1) Before installing the torsion bar, obtain a new adjusting bolt, swivel and torsion bar balloon seal.

Install the torsion bar as follows:

(2) The torsion bars are marked (R) right and (L) left on the end. It is important that each torsion bar is installed on its respective side.

(3) Slide the new balloon seal over the torsion bar

(cupped side toward rear anchor).

(4) Apply a liberal coating of Multi-Mileage lubricant, Part No. 2298947 around each end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar should be coated equal to the depth of the anchor hub socket.

(5) Install the torsion bar (Fig. 2).

(6) Turn the torsion bar until the anchor end is positioned approximately 120 degrees (eight o'clock or four o'clock position) down from the frame.

(7) Engage the front end of the bar in the hex opening of the lower control arm. If the anchor end is not in the position just described when installing the torsion bar, it will be impossible to adjust the front suspension to the correct height.

(8) Before installing the lock ring, center the bar so that full contact of the hex ends is obtained at the anchor and arm shaft. Install the lock ring, making sure it is seated in its groove.

(9) Pack the annular opening in the rear anchor completely full of Multi-Mileage lubricant. Position the lip of the seal in the groove in the anchor hub. Install the plastic seal into the rear end of the torsion bar anchor.

(10) Slide the adjusting bolt swivel in position on the frame. Hold in position while installing the new adjusting bolt and seat. Tighten the bolt into a new swivel until approximately 1 inch of threads are showing out of the swivel. This is an approximate setting and is to be used only as a starting point when adjusting for correct height. This setting is also necessary to place a load on the torsion bar before lowering the vehicle to the floor.

(11) Lower the vehicle to the floor, then measure and adjust the suspension as required (Paragraphs 2 and 3).

5 . L O W E R BALL J O I N T S

The lower ball joints should not be replaced tot looseness if the axial end play (up and down movement) is under .050 inch. Looseness of this nature is normal and will not affect front end alignment.

Fig. 4—Torsion Bar Lock Ring

R e m o v a l

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm and raise the vehicle.

(2) Remove the wheel, tire and drum assembly and the brake support plate.

(3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint and nuts.

Slide Tool C-3564 over the upper stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the lower stud (Fig. 5). Spread the tool enough to place the lower stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud.

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2 -6 FRONT SUSPENSION through the plug hole in the bottom of the housing, until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(7) Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly. Adjust the front wheel bearing (See Group 22, "Wheels,

Bearings and Tires").

UPPER BALL JOINTS

Pig.

5— Removing Lower

Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

(5) Using Tool C-3560 for Models VC-1, VC-2 and

VC-3 or Tool C3561 for VY-1, unscrew the ball joint housing from the lower control arm and remove.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

Boll Joint from Knuckle

Installation

(1) When installing the new ball joint, i t is very important that the ball joint threads properly engage those of the control arm.

Screw the ball joint into the control arm as far as possible by hand.

(2) Using Tool C-3560 for Models VC-1, VC-2 and

VC-3 or Tool C-3561 for VY-1, tighten the ball joint assembly to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on (VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3 Models) and 150 foot-pounds on (VY-1 models) until seated in the control arm.

(3) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body. Using Tool C-3736 on Models

VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3, and Tool C-3867 on VY-1 install the seals.

To facilitate installation of the seal, the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.

(4) Install the brake support plate assembly. Tighten the brake support bolts to 55 foot-pounds torque and the knuckle arm bolts to 80 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Position the stud in the steering knuckle, and install the washer and nut. Tighten to 115 foot-pounds torque (VC-1-2-3), and 135 foot-pounds torque (VY-1) and install the cotter pin.

(6) Lubricate the joint with the specified lubricant

Removal

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise the wheel off the floor.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

(3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 down over the lower stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the upper stud (Fig. 6). Spread the tool enough to place the upper stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud.

Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

(5) Using Tool C-3560 for Models VC-1, VC-2 and

VC-3 or Tool C-3561 for VY-1 (Fig. 7) unscrew the ball joint from the upper control arm.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

Installation

When installing a new ball joint, it is very important that the ball joint threads properly engage those of the control arm.

Fig.

6—

Removing Upper Ball Joint from Knuckle

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FRONT SUSPENSION 2-7

(5) Repack the ball joint with the specified lubricant through the plug hole in the top, until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(6) Install the wheel and tire and adjust the front wheel bearing (See Group 22, "Wheels, Bearings and

Tires").

Fig. 7—Removing the Ball Joint

L O W E R C O N T R O L A R M STRUT

Removal I Fig* 8)

(1) Remove the nuts, lockwashers, and bolts that attach the sway bar bushing housings to the struts, disconnect the sway bar from the struts.

(2) Remove the strut to the lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts.

(3) Remove the nut and bushing retainer from the forward end of the strut at the crossmember.

(4) Slide the strut and inner bushing retainer from the bushing in the frame.

(5) Using a screwdriver, pry the bushing out of the front of the frame.

(1) Screw the ball joint squarely into the control arm as far as possible by hand.

(2) Using Tool C-3560, or C-3561 according to

Model indicated as above, tighten until the ball joint housing is seated on the control arm. Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on Models VC-1,

VC-2, VC-3, and 150 foot-pounds torque on Models

VY-1.

(3) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body using Tool C-3736 on Models

VC-1, VC-2, and VC-3, and Tool C-3867 on VY-1; install the seals.

To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.

(4) Position the stud in the steering knuckle. Install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut on Models VC-1,

VC-2, VC-3 to 100 foot-pounds torque, and on Models

VY-1 to 135 foot-pounds torque. Install the cotter pin.

Installation

(1) Dip the new bushing in water and with the tapered portion toward the rear of the vehicle, install the bushing in the opening in the frame using a twisting motion (and/or hammer) until the groove in the bushing indexes properly with the frame.

(2) With the cupped side out, slide the washer over the threaded end of the strut. Push the strut through the bushing in the frame, position the outer washer over the end of the strut (cupped side in) and install the nut.

(3) Tighten the nut sufficiently to install the strut to the lower control arm mounting bolts. Install the

Fig. 8—Lower Control Arm Strut Mounting

Fig. 9—Removing the Lower Control Arm Shaft and Bushing

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2-8 FRONT SUSPENSION bolts, lockwashers and nuts, and tighten to 100 footpounds torque.

(4) Tighten the nut on the forward end of the stout to 40 foot-pounds torque with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels.

(5) Install the sway bar (if so equipped).

(6) Set the front end alignment (Paragraph 3).

(8) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer that attaches the lower control arm shaft to the frame.

With the washer and cotter pin removed, reinstall the nut until it is flush with the end of the shaft to protect the threads.

(9) Using a hammer and brass drift, loosen the shaft (a tapered fit in front crossmember), then remove the nut. Slide the lower control arm and shaft out from the rear of the crossmember.

8 . LOWER CONTROL A R M A N D SHAFT

(Fig.

Removal

(1) Place a jack under the number 2 crossmember and raise the vehicle until both front wheels clear the floor.

(2) Remove the torsion bar, Paragraph 4.

(3) Remove the wheel, tire and drum assembly.

Remove the brake support plate assembly.

(4) Disconnect the shock absorber at the lower control arm bracket then push the shock absorber up into the frame out of the way.

(5) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts that attach the strut to the lower control arm.

(6) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over the upper stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the lower stud (Fig. 5). Spread the tool enough to place the lower stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud.

Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(7) Remove the tool, and disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

Disassembly

(1) Place the lower control arm in an arbor press

(with torsion bar hex opening up). Press the shaft and bushing out of the control arm, using a brass drift

(Fig. 9).

(2) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer from the end of the shaft, and remove the bushing from the shaft.

(3) Using Tool C-3560 for Models VC-1, VC-2, and

VC-3 or Tool C-3561 for VY-1 unscrew the ball joint from the lower control arm.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

Assembly

(1) Position the new bushing over the shaft (flange end first) and seat on the shoulder of the shaft. Install the washer and nut, then tighten to 100 foot-pounds torque. (Hold shaft securely in a vise with protector jaws). Install the cotter pin.

(2) Press the lower control arm shaft and bushing into the lower control arm with an arbor press, or drive into place using Tool C-3556 for Models VC-1,

VC-2 and VC-3 or Tool C-3557 for VY-1, and a hammer

(Fig. 10).

(3) Press until the flanged position of the bushing is seated, beyond the locking groove.

(4) Thread the ball joint into the new arm using

Tool C-3560 for Models VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3, or Tool

C-3561 for VY-1.

(5) Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on Models VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3, and 150 footpounds on Models VY-1 until the ball joint is seated

(the ball joint will cut threads into the new arm during tightening operation).

Fig. 10—Installing the Lower Control Arm Shaft

Assembly

Installation

Before installing the parts, clean all rust scale, and mud and other foreign matter off of the mounting surfaces.

(1) Position the shaft and control arm in the frame crossmember in approximate operating position. Install the washer and nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN the nut until the full weight of the vehicle is on the wheels.

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FRONT SUSPENSION 2-9

(2) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body and using Tool C-3736 on

Models VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3, and Tool C-3867 on

VY-1 install the seals.

To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.

Repack the joint with the specified lubricant through the plug hole in the bottom until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(3) Install the brake support plate assembly. Tighten brake support bolts to 55 foot-pounds torque and the knuckle arm bolts to 80 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Position the stud in the steering knuckle. Install the washer and nut. Tighten to 115 foot-pounds torque (VC"1, VC-2, VC-3), 135 foot-pounds torque

(VY-1) and install the cotter pin.

(5) Pull down the shock absorber from its position in the frame opening and engage with the mounting bracket on the lower control arm. Install the bolt, washer and nut. Tighten to 55 foot-pounds torque.

(6) Position the strut on the lower arm, install the bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten to 100 foot-pounds torque.

(7) Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly.

(8) Adjust the front wheel bearing (See Group 22,

"Wheels, Bearings and Tires").

(9) Install the torsion bar, (Paragraph 4).

(10) Tighten the lower control arm shaft, (the % inch) nut to 180 foot-pounds torque for Models VC-1,

VC-2, and VC-3 and (% inch) nut 200 foot-pounds torque for Models VY-1. Install the cotter pin.

(11) Lower the vehicle to the floor, then measure and adjust the suspension heights as required (Paragraph 2).

(12) Set the front end alignment (Paragraph 3). to place the upper stud under pressure then strike the knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.

(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.

(5) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts attaching the upper control arm bushings to the front and rear support. lift the upper control arm up and away from the support.

Disassembly

(1) Remove the ball joint using Tool C-3560 for

Models VC-1, VC-2, and VC-3, or Tool C-3561 for VY-1.

The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.

(2) Assemble Tool C-3710 (using adaptor SP-3826 in place of SP-3088) (Tool C-3669 with adaptor SP-

3233A is the same as Tool C-3710) over the bushing and press the bushing out of the arm (from inside out) (Fig. 11). The bushing support sleeve will come off as the bushing is removed. Be sure the control arm is firmly supported if a hammer and drift is used in place of the tool.

Assembly

When installing the new bushings, be sure the control arm is supported squarely at the point where the

9 . UPPER C O N T R O L A R M

Removal

The upper control arm support mounting brackets are welded to the frame side rails.

(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise the jack until the front wheel clears the floor.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

(3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide the Tool C-3564 down over the lower stud until the tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the upper stud (Fig. 6). Spread the tool enough Fig. 11—Removing the Upper Control Arm Bushing

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2-10 FRONT SUSPENSION bushing is being pressed in. Do not use oil or grease to aid in installation.

(1) Position the flange end of the new bushing in

Tool C-3710 and then support the control arm squarely.

(2) Force the bushings into the control arm (from outside) until the tapered portion of the bushing seats on the arm.

(3) Remove the tool and install adaptor SP-3827 in place of SP-3233A cup on the tool and install the bushing support sleeve (Fig. 12).

(4) Thread the ball joint into the arm using Tool

C-3560 for Models VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3, or Tool

C-3561 for VY-1.

(5) Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds torque on Models VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3 and 150 footpounds on Model VY-1 until seated. The ball joint will cut threads into the arm during the tightening operation. After the bushings have been pressed in place, install the upper control arm on the vehicle.

63x413

Fig. 12—Installing the Upper Control A r m Bushing

Support Sleeve

Installation

(1) Slide the upper control arm into position. Install the arm washers and nuts and tighten the nuts to 65 foot-pounds torque after setting the front end alignment.

(2) Remove the two sway bar cushion retaining nuts, lockwashers and bolts, (one to each strut). Slide the sway bar out through the control arm struts and away from the vehicle.

The sway bar cushions are not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, install a new sway bar assembly. Remove the lower concave washers.

(2) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on the ball joint body, and using Tool C-3736 on

Models VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3, and Tool C3867 on

VY-1, install the seals.

To facilitate installation of the seal the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.

Repack the joint with the specified lubricant through the plug hole in the top, until the lubricant is emitted from the seal. Install the plug.

(3) Remove the sway bar link insulating bushings from the frame bracket. If the bushings are worn or deteriorated, install new bushings as required.

Installation

(3) Position the stud in the steering knuckle. Install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut on Models

VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3 100 foot-pounds and on Model

VY-1 135 foot-pounds torque. Install the cotter pin.

(1) Dip the new sway bar link bushings in water and install in the opening in the frame bracket, using a twisting motion. When installed properly, the groove in the bushing will index with opening in the frame bracket.

(4) Install the wheel and tire and tighten in specified sequence. Adjust the front wheel bearing

(See Group 22, "Wheels, Bearings and Tires"). Remove the jack.

(5) Set the front end alignment (Paragraph 3).

(2) Thread the sway bar into position over the top of the lower control arm struts.

(3) Engage the sway bar cushion housing with the struts and install lock plates. Insert the bolts, lockwashers and nuts and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

1 0 . S W A Y

Removal

BAR ( M o d e l s so

(1) Remove the two sway bar link retaining nuts and concave washers.

Equipped)

(4) Install the washers over the ends of the links

(concave side up), then slide the links up through the bushings. Install the washers (concave side down), over the ends of the links and down on the bushings.

Install the nuts and tighten to 100 inch-pounds torque.

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Condition

F r o n t E n d Noise

I n s t a b i l i t y

H a r d Steering

FRONT SUSPENSION 2-11

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Ball joint needs lubrication.

(b) Shock absorber and bushings worn or loose.

(c) Worn strut bushings.

(d) Loose stouts—Lower control arm bolts and nuts.

(e) Loose steering gear on frame.

(f) Worn upper control arm bushings.

(g) Worn lower control arm shaft bushings.

(h) Worn upper ball joint.

(i) Worn lower ball joint,

(j) Worn tie rod ends.

(k) Loose or worn front wheel bearings.

(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(b) Lop^e wheel bearings.

(c) Improper steering cross shaft adjustment.

(d) Steering gear not centered.

(e) Worn idler arm bushing.

(f) Loose or failed front strut bushings.

(g) Weak or broken rear spring.

(h) Incorrect front suspension alignment.

(i) Shock absorber inoperative.

(a) Ball joints—insufficient lubrication.

(b) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(c) Low power steering fluid level.

(On Power Steering equipped cars.)

(d) Lack of assist of power steering system.

(e) Incorrect front end alignment

(particularly caster) resulting from one of the following:

(a) Upper control arm bent.

(b) Lower control arm bent.

(c) Steering knuckle or steering knuckle arm bent.

(f) Steering gear low on lubricant.

(a) Lubricate ball joint (see Lubrication

(d)

(e)

Group "0").

(b) Replace bushings.

(c) Replace bushing.

(d) Tighten all bolts and nuts.

(e) Tighten the steering gear mounting bolts.

(f) Replace the worn bushings.

(g) Replace the worn bushings.

(h) Replace the ball joint.

(i) Replace the ball joint,

(j) Replace the tie rod end.

(k) Adjust or replace the bearings as necessary.

(a) Inflate the tires to correct pressure.

(b) Adjust the wheel bearing.

(c) Adjust the steering cross shaft.

(d) Adjust the steering gear.

(e) Replace the bushing.

(f) Replace the bushings.

(g) Replace the spring.

(h) Measure and adjust the front end alignment.

(i) Replace the shock absorber.

(a) Lubricate the ball joints.

(b) Inflate the tires to the recommended pressures.

(c) Fill the power steering pump reservoir to level with MoPar Power Steering Fluid.

Inspect and test the power steering pump and steering gear. Service the power steering pump or gear as required.

Replace the bent part, and align suspension.

(f) Fill the steering gear to the correct level.

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2-12 FRONT SUSPENSION

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Condition Possible Cause Correction

C a r Pull® to

O n e S i d e

Excessive P l a y

I n

Steering

(g) Steering gear not adjusted properly.

(h) Idler arm binding.

(g) Adjust the steering gear.

(h) Free-up the idler arm.

(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(b) Front brake dragging.

(c) Grease, lubricant or brake fluid leaking onto brake lining,

(d) Loose or failed strut bushings.

(e) Power steering control valve out of adjustment.

(f) Incorrect front end alignment

(particularly camber).

(g) Broken or weak rear spring.

(a) Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure.

(b) Adjust the brakes.

(c) Replace brake shoe and lining as necessary and stop all leaks.

(d) Adjust or replace the strut bushings.

(e) Adjust the steering gear control valve.

(f) Adjust the front end alignment.

(g) Replace the spring.

(a) Worn or loose front wheel bearings.

(b) Incorrect steering gear adjustment.

(c) Loose steering gear to frame mounting bolts.

(d) Worn ball joints or tie rod.

(e) Worn steering gear parts.

(a) Adjust or replace the wheel bearings as necessary.

(b) Adjust the steering gear.

(c) Tighten the steering gear to frame bolts.

(d) Replace the ball joints on tie rods as necessary.

(e) Replace worn steering gear parts and adjust steering gear as necessary.

(f) Replace the ball joints.

(g) Replace the ball joints.

(f) Worn upper control arm ball joints.

(g) Worn lower control arm ball joints.

Front Wheel S h i m m y

(a) Tire, wheel out of balance.

(b) Uneven tire wear, or extremely worn tires.

(c) Worn or loose wheel bearings.

(d) Worn tie rod ends.

(e) Strut mounting bushings loose or worn.

(f) Incorrect front end alignment

(particularly caster).

(a) Balance the wheel and tire assembly.

(b) Rotate or replace the tires as necessary.

(c) Replace or adjust the wheel bearings as necessary.

(d) Replace the tie rod ends.

(e) Replace the strut mounting bushings.

(f) Adjust the front end alignment.

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REAR AXLE 3-1

GROUP 3

REAR AXLE

CONTENTS

Page Page

Torque Reference

v v".- . 2 Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash 14

Differential Carrier-—Removal ". . . 5

Differential Case Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Differential Carrier Assembly—Installation 15

Sure Grip Differential—Identification. . . • . . . . . . . . . . . 16

SPECIFICATIONS

MODELS VC-1, VC-2, VC-3, VY-1

Type Semi-Floating

Gear Type . . Hypoid

Ring Gear Diameter 8.75 inch

Pinion Bearing Tapered Roller (2)

Drive Pinion Bearing Pre-Load 20-30 in. lbs. without oil seal

A d j u s t m e n t . . . . . . . . . Shim Pack

Differential B e a r i n g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tapered Roller (2)

Differential Bearing Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Threaded Adjuster

Drive Gear and Pinion . . . . Serviced in Matched Sets Only

Drive Gear Runout. .005 inch (Maximum)

Drive Gear and Pinion Adjustment. Select Washer

Drive Gear and. Pinion Backlash .006 to .008 inch

Differential Side Gear Clearance .001 to .012 inch

Differential Lubricant Capacity . . . . . . . 4 pints

Type. Multi-purpose Gear Lubricant as defined by MIL-L-2105B is used in all rear axles. MoPar Hypoid Lubricant

Part No. 1879414 is also recommended.

Anticipated Temperature Range Viscosity Grade

Above - 1 0 ° F . . . SAE 90

As low as - 3 0 ° F SAE 80

Below - 3 0 ° F . ~ SAE 75

Axle Ratio

Manual Transmission VC-1, VC-2 3.23 to 1

TorqueFlite Transmission VC-1 (Optional Ratio). 2.76 to 1

TorqueFlite Transmission VC-3 2.76 to 1

TorqueFlite Transmission VY-1 ; 2.93 to 1

Sure Grip Differential , 2.93 to 1

Wheel Bearing Axle Shaft End Play. . . .013 to .023 inch

VC-1 Models with 383 cubic inch engines are equipped with the large stem 8% inch drive gear.

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3-2 REAR AXLE

SPECIAL TOOLS

C-293-E2 or F2 Puller Sets—Roller Bearing

C-406-A Differential Bearing Adjusting Wrench

C-413. . . Rear Axle Shaft Outer Bearing Cup Driver

C-452 . Universal Joint Flange Puller

C-485 Torque Wrench (Foot-Pounds)

C-496 Pinion and Transmission Companion Flange or Yoke Puller

C-499 Axle Shaft Puller

C-637. Axle Shaft and Inner Oil Seal Puller

C-685 . ; . . . . . . .Torque Wrench (Inch-Pounds)

C-745 Rear Axle Shaft Oil Seal Installing Sleeve

C-748 . . Pinion Oil Seal Puller

C-758-D3 . . . . . . Pinion Setting Gauge Set

C - 8 3 9 . . . . . . . . Rear Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal Driver

C-845. , . . Universal Wheel and Hub Puller

C-3261 . Companion Flange Holding Wrench

C - 3 3 3 9 . . . . . . . . ; : : . . . . . . . .-; : . Dial Indicator (Replaces C-430)

C-3565 Axle Shaft Outer Seal Driver

C-3656 . . . Pinion Oil Seal Driver

DD-996 ; Pinion Bearing Installer

DD-999.. . . . Flange or Yoke installer

DD-1005 . . . . . Differential Case Side and Cross Shaft Roller Bearing Drive

DD-1014 Repair Stand—Differential Carrier

SP-2919 Pinion Setting Adapter—Part of Tool C-758-D3

SP-2921 . . . . Pinion Setting Adapter—Part of Tool C-758-D3

T O R Q U E REFERENCE

(Foot-Pound)

Axle Shaft Nuts 145 (min.)

Brake Support Plate to Housing Mounting Bolts Nuts 30 to 35

Differential Bearing Cap Bolts. . . . . . .

;

, . . . 90

Differential Carrier to Axle Housing Bolt Nuts. 45

Rear Axle Drive Gear to Case Bolts 60

Rear Axle Drive Pinion Companion Flange Nut 240 (min.)

Spring Clip (U-Bolts) Nuts 50

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REAR AXLE 3-3

REAR AXLE

The rear axle assembly (Figs. 1 and 2) may be divided into four subassemblies; axle drive shafts with related parts, differential with drive gear, drive pinion with carrier, and the axle housing. It is not necessary to remove the entire assembly to service any of the above parts with the exception of the axle housing itself.

SiRVlCE PROCEDURES

1. A X L E DRIVE SHAFTS

The axle drive shafts are the same length for the conventional and Sure Grip differentials.

Removal

(1) Raise the vehicle and remove the rear wheels, hub and drum assembly using puller Tool C-845 or

Tool C-319.

THRUST WASHER

SHAFT

BEARING

CONE

CUP

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

LOCK

ADJUSTER

:AP

FLANGE

NUT

SIDE GEAR

THRUST WASHER \

THRUST BLOCK

PINION THRUST WASHER

SIDE GEAR

THRUST WASHER

BOLT

BEARING C O N E

ADJUSTING WASHER

WASHER

PLUG \

CAP

ADJUSTER

LOCK

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

GUARD

Fig.

1— Rear A x l e {Disassembled View) Models VC -2, VC-3, VY -1

5 7 x 1 A

THRUST

WASHER

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

SPACER

GUARD

FLANGE

WASHER

SIDE GEAR

THRUST WASHER

PINION

SIDE GEAR

THRUST WASHER

ADJUSTING WASHEfc

BEARING C O N E

"THRUST BLOCK

THRUST WASHER

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

Fig.

2— Rear Axle (Disassembled View) Model VC-1

5 7 x 2 A

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3-4 REAR AXLE

Fig.

3— Removing Axle Drive Shaft and Hearing

(2) Block the brake pedal to prevent its being depressed and disconnect the brake lines at the wheel cylinders.

(3) Remove the axle drive shaft key and remove the brake support plate assembly using Tool C-745 to protect the outer seal.

(4) Carefully remove the shim pack from each end of the axle housing. Identify each shim pack as to location to aid in reassembly.

(5) Bemove the axle shaft and bearing assembly with Tool C-499 (Fig. 3). If necessary, the bearings may be removed from the axle shafts with bearing puller Tool C-293 and number 13 adaptors (Fig. 4).

(6) Remove the axle shaft inner oil seals with puller Tool C-637. Remove the brake support plate outer seal with Tool C-3565.

C l e a n i n g and inspection

(1) Using mineral spirits or dry cleaning solvent, clean the axle shafts, bearings, cups, shims and shim contacting surfaces as well as the counterbores of the axle housing. With the exception of the bearings, dry all parts with compressed air.

(2) Inspect the bearing cones andcupsfor pitting or other visible damage. If either the bearing cotte or cup is unfit for further service, always replace both.

(3) Inspect each axle shaft for signs of fatigue, worn or scored oil seal contacting surfaces, wear or accumulated metal deposits onthe thrust %loek end of shaft, damaged threads, or excessively worn splines. Machine surfaces can usually be satisfactorily cleaned. If abnormal conditions are noted, the shafts should be replaced.

(4) Inspect the shims for distortion or other visible damage. Discard any shims unfit for further service.

(5) Inspect the shim contacting surfaces of both the brake support arid axle housing for burrs. Remove burrs with crocus cloth if possible.

(6) If inspection above reveals that replecement of either the axle shafts or bearings are necessary, install new bearings on either the original shaft or the new shaft. Make certain the bearing and axle shaft contacting surfaces are thoroughly cleaned so the bearing when installed, bottoms against the shoulder of the axle shaft (tapered portion of bearing must face the axle shaft threads).

MKI® Drive S h a f t ' E n d Play

Where tlie original axle shafts and/or bearings are used, start the adjustment of the axle end play with the original shim pack. Use new styrofoam gaskets on each side of the shim packs.

(1) InstaU a new axle inner oil seal (Fig. 5) using

Tool C-839.

(2) Lubricate both axle shaft bearings and install axles and bearing cups using Tool C-413 (Figure 6).

(3) With the axle assembled and the brake support

Fig. 4—Removing Bearing from Axle Drive Shaft Fig. 5—Installing Axle Shaft Inner Oil Seal

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REAR AXLE 3-5

(15) Insert the sleeve Tool C-745 in the outer seal to protect the seal when the brake support plate is installed.

(16) Install the support plate assembly. Tighten the attaching nuts 30 to 35 foot-pounds. Install the wheels, hub and drum. The axle shaft key should lie flush with the outer end of the hub.

2 . DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER R E M O V A L

(1) Remove the axle drive shafts, Paragraph 1.

(2) Disconnect the rear universal joint and support the propeller shaft up and out of the way.

Fig.

6— Installing Axe Drive Shaft Bearing Cup plates removed, proceed as follows.

(4) Push both axle shafts and bearing cups in toward the center of the housing as far as they will go.

(3) Remove the lubricant from the axle housing using a suction gun.

(4) Remove the attaching nuts and lift the rear axle carrier assembly from under the vehicle.

NOTE: Rotate axles to insure seating of both

3 . DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER DISASSEMBLY bearings and cups.

(5) After pushing the left axle in as far as it will

Differential Assembly Removal go, measure the amount the right axle shaft bearing

(1) Mount the carrier in Stand DD-1014 and attach cup protrudes out of the axle housing (using feeler gauge stock).

(8) Push the left aide shaft and bearing cup in as the dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool C-3339 to the differential carrier flange so the pointer of the indicator squarely contacts the back face of the ring

(6) If the protrusion of the right bearing cup is gear (Fig.

7).

Make certain there is no end play in less than .052 inch (Standard Differential) or .081 the differential side bearings. If end play is evident, inch (Sure-Grip Differential), no shims are needed on remove the adjuster lock and slightly loosen the the right side. If the protrusion is beyond the above bearing cap on the gear tooth side. Tighten the specifications, that is the amount of shims to add to adjuster sufficiently to eliminate the end play. the right side. I

(2) Rotate the drive gear several complete revolu-

(7) Install the gasket, shims and brake support tions while noting the total indicator reading. This plate to the right side of the axle housing. Tighten reading must not exceed .005 inch runout. If the inthe attaching nut 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque. dicator reading exceeds the .005 inch runout, it will be necessary to take a second reading after the drive far as possible while rotating the axle shaft to insure gear has been removed. This operation is covered seating of the axle bearing and cup. during "Differential Disassembly". Remove the dial

(9) Measure the distance the bearing cup protrudes beyond the housing face. indicator.

(10) Add .016 inch to this measurement in order to insure the proper end play.

(11) Install the gasket, shims and brake support plate. Tighten the brake plate attaching nuts 30 to

35 foot-pounds torque.

(12) Measure the total end play of both axle shafts after assembly. Preferred end play (.013 to .023 inch).

If necessary to correct, change shims on the left side.

(13) Position the shim packs and gaskets on the flange studs and drive the cups in until the tool bottoms on the shim pack.

(14) Install a new outer oil seal in the brake support plate with Tool C-3565 with the lip of ths seal toward the center of the vehicle. Fig. 7—Measuring the Drive Gear Runout

3-6 REAR AXLE

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Fig. 10—-Removing Pinion Bearing Oil Seal

Pig. 8— Marking Bearing Caps and Adjusting

Nuts

(3) Apply identifying punch marks on the bearing supports of the differential carrier, differential bearing caps, and bearing adjusters for reassembly purposes (Fig. 8).

(4) Remove each of the differential bearing adapter lock screws and locks.

(5) With a % inch socket wrench, loosen the bearing cap bolts (one on each side) and back off the bearing adjusters slightly with spanner wrench Tool

C-406, to remove the differential case bearing preload.

Remove the bearing cap bolts, caps and bearing adjusters.

(6) Remove the differential assembly with the bearing cups. Make certain that each bearing cup remains with its respective bearing. and remove the flange (Fig. 9).

(3) Install the oil seal puller Tool C-748 by screwing it securely into the pinion oil seal (Fig. 10) and tighten the puller screw to remove the seal.

(4) While holding one hand over the companion flange end of the carrier, invert the carrier in the stand. The oil slinger, front bearing cone shim pack and bearing spacer (where used) will drop from the carrier.

(5) Withdraw the pinion and rear bearing cone from the carrier.

Pinion Rear Bearing Removal

(1) When removing the pinion rear bearing (Fig.

11) on a Chrysler Newport carrier use Tool C-293 and four (4) No. 36 adaptors. On all other Chrysler and Imperial models, use Tool C-293 and four (4) No.

37 adaptors.

(2) The pinion bearing cups can be removed from the carrier with a blunt brass drift and hammer.

Differential Case Disassembly

(1) Hold the drive gear in an upright position using

Pinion Removal

(1) With the companion flange up, hold the flange with holding Tool C-3281 and remove the pinion shaft nut and belleville washer.

(2) Install the companion flange puller Tool C-452

PLATES

Fig. 9—Removing Companion Flange Fig. 11—Removing Bearing from Pinion Shaft

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REAR AXLE 3-7 brass jaws in a vise. With a % inch socket wrench, remove the drive gear to differential attaching cap screws. The drive gear, attaching screws have left hand threads.

(2) Remove the assembly from the vise and with a fiber mallet, tap the drive gear off the case.

(3) If the drive gear runout was found to be more than .005 inch (Paragraph 3 "Carrier Disassembly") test the case as follows: Install the differential with bearing cups in the carrier.

(4) Install the bearing caps, attaching bolts and bearing adjusters. Snug the bearing cap bolts down lightly and screw in both adjusters with spanner wrench Tool C-406A.

(5) Tighten the support "cap bolts and adjusters sufficiently to prevent any end play in the bearings.

(6) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool

C-3339 to the differential carrier flange so the pointer of the indicator squarely contacts the drive gear surface of the differential case flange between the outer edge of the flange and the drive gear bolt holes

(Fig. 12).

(7) Rotate the differential several complete revolutions while noting the total indicator reading. This reading must not exceed .003 inch runout. If the runout is in excess of .003 inch, the differential case must be replaced.

(8) Measure the side gear clearances between the gear and case (Fig. 13). Clearances should be from

.001 to .012 inch. If the clearance exceeds .012 inch, install new thrust washers.

(9) From the back side of the drive gear flange, drive the differential pinion shaft lock pin out of the case with a flat nose drift and hammer. The lock pin

Fig. 12—Checking Drive Gear Mounting Flange

Run-out is a

Fig. 13—Checking Differential Gear Clearance

VA inch hollow split type. (The hole is reamed only part way through, making it necessary to remove the lock pin from one direction.)

(10) Drive the pinion shaft out with a brass drift and hammer and remove the axle drive shaft thrust block.

(11) Rotate on differential side gear until each pinion appears at the large opening of the case. Remove each pinion and thrust washer at that time.

(12) Remove the two differential side gears and thrust washers.

4 . D I F F E R E N T I A L — C L E A N I N G

A N D INSPECTION

(1) Clean all parts in fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of the bearings, dry with compressed air.

(2) Inspect the differential bearing cones and cups for pitting, spalling or other visible damage. If replacement is necessary, remove the bearings from the differential case with puller Tool C-293 and four adaptor plates No. 18 (Fig. 14).

(3) Inspect the differential case for elongated or enlarged pinion shaft holes, the side gear counterbores and the four thrust washer contacting surfaces for galling, metal deposits or raised portions of metal.

If any of the above conditions exist, satisfactory correction must be made or the case replaced. Inspect the case for cracks or other visible damage which might render it unfit for further service.

(4) Inspect the differential pinion shaft for excessive wear. Replace as necessary.

(5) Inspect the differential pinion gears for excessive wear, cracks, chipped teeth or other visible

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3-8

REAR AXLE

in removing the pinion cups should be flattened by use of a flat nose punch.

(12) Inspect the drive pinion for damaged or excessively worn teeth, damaged bearings, journals or splines. If replacement of the pinion is necessary, a new drive gear must also be used as they are furnished in matched sets only, also inspect the pinion bearing spacer for distortion and damage.

(13) Inspect the companion flange for cracks, worn splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting surface. Repair or replace the companion flange as necessary.

(14) Inspect the pinion bearing shim pack for damaged or distorted shims. Replace the shims with a correct one during establishment of pinion bearing preload.

5. DIFFERENTIAL CASE ASSEMBLY

(1) Install a thrust washer on each of the differential side gears and position the gears in the case.

Fig. 14—Removing Differential Bearings damage. Replace pinion gears or thrust washers as necessary.

(6) Inspect the differential side gears for cracks, chipped teeth or other visible damage. Replace differential side gears or thrust washers as necessary.

(7) Inspect the axle shaft thrust block for excessive wear or visible damage. The wear surface, on the opposite sides of the block, must be smooth. If inspection reveals that replacement of the thrust block is necessary, the axle shaft end play must be reset.

(8) Inspect the differential pinion shaft lock pin for damage or looseness in the ease. Replace the pin or case as necessary.

(9) Inspect the drive gear foir worn or chipped tieth or damaged attaching bolt threads. If replacement of the drive gear is necessary, replace both the drive gear and drive pinion as they are furnished in matched sets only.

(10) Inspect the drive pinion bearing cones and the cups (which may have been left in the carrier) for pitting, galling, excessive wear, or other visible damage. If inspection reveals that either are unfit for further service, replace the cup and cone.

(11) Inspect the differential carrier for cracks or other visible damage which would render it unfit for further service. Raised metal on the shoulder incurred

(2) Through the large side opening of the case, insert each of the two pinion and thrust washers exactly 180 degrees opposite each other, so the pinion shaft holes of the two gears and thrust washers are properly aligned.

(3) Rotate the gears 90 degrees so that the pinion shaft holes of the case are in exact alignment with the holes in the two thrust washers and pinions.

(4) From the pinion shaft lock pin hole side of the case, insert the slotted portion of the pinion shaft through the case, and the conical thrust washer, and just through one of the pinion gears.

(5) Install the thrust block between the two pinion gears. The thrust block must be installed so the hole in the block is aligned with the pinion shaft and with the ground sides of the block facing the two side gears.

(6) While keeping aE of these parts in proper alignment push the pinion shaft into the case until the locking pin hole in the pinion shaft is in exact alignment with its respective hole in the case. Install the pinion shaft lock pin through the hole in the case from the pinion shaft side of the drive gear flange.

NOTE: The contacting surfaces of the drive gear and the case flange must be clean and free of all burrs.

(7| Position the drive gear on the case, aligning the threaded holes of the drive gear with those in the case flange.

(8) Insert the drive gear cap screws through the ease; flange and into the drive gear. After all caj screws are properly started, tap the drive gear onto the flange.

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REAR AXLE 3-9

G A U G E B L O C K

S P - 5 2 8

W R E N C H C R O S S B O R E .Jf*.

T U B E S P - 5 6 1 *

SLEEVE

S P - 1 3 7 0

«L* S P A C E R S P - 1 3 7 1

C O M P R E S S I O N

SLEEVE SP-535

SLEEVE _

S P - 1 6 8 2

l.Cj)

V^ C O M P R E S S I O N

N U T SP-533 i y^Z& C E N T R A L I Z I N G '

S P A C E R S P - 2 9 2 1 W A S H E R SP-534 ^ * W f .

(r% p

^ J J - 1 7 3 0 ^

SP-539

f j /

" ^

%J& P I N I O N L O C A T I N G S P A C E R S P - 2 9 1 9

57x438

5 7 x l 3 A

Fig. 17—Sealing Bearing Cups in Carrier

Fig. 15-TooI Set C-758

(9) Position the unit between the brass jaws of the vise and alternately torque tighten each cap screw to 60 foot-pounds torque.

(10) Position each differential bearing cone on the hub of the case (taper away from the drive gear) and with installing Tool DD-1005, install the bearing cones. An arbor press may be used in conjunction with the installing tool.

CAUTION: Never exert pressure against the bearing cage, since this would damage the bearing.

6 . P I N I O N BEARING C U P -

INSTALLATION

(1) Place the bearing cups squarely in position. Assemble Tool C-758 (Fig. 15) by placing spacer SP-2919

(on Chrysler Newport C-i) followed by the rear pinion bearing cone over the main screw of the tool and inserting it into the carrier from the gear side

(Fig. 16).

(2) Place the front pinion bearing over the main screw followed by compression sleeve SP-535, centralizing washer SP-534, and main screw nut SP-533.

Hold the compression sleeve with the companion

COMPRESSION SLEEVE

(TOOL)

CENTRALIZING

WASHER

. (TOOL) flange holding Tool C-3281 and tighten the nut (Fig.

17), allowing the tool to rotate as the nut is being tightened in order not to damage the bearings or cups.

Do not remove the tool after installing the cups.

P I N I O N BEARING PRELOAD-DEPTH

O F MESH-INSTALLATION MODEL V C - 1 ,

U S I N G T O O L C - 7 5 8

Bearing Preload

Two types of drive pinions are used. The method of determining pinion depth of mesh and bearing preload are the same for both pinions, however, the sequence of making the two adjustments changes.

Pinions used on Models VC-2, ^ 3 and Models VY-4, require the depth of mesh adjustment first, while pinions used on Model VC-1 requires the bearing preload adjustment first.

(1) With the tool installed in the carrier, remove the main screw nut, centralizing washer, compression sleeve and the front pinion bearing.

(2) Install the pinion bearing spacer, the larger bore of spacer next to the rear bearing.

(3) Position the sleeve (SP-1730) in the front beary

P I N I O N L O C A T I N G W A S H E R O R S H I M

S P - 5 6 1 j A S S E M B L Y O F S P - 5 2 6

\ \ \ - . C A R R I E R

S P - 5 2 8 U \ / A S S E M B L Y

/ S P - 2 9 1 9

57x12

Fig. 16—Compression Sleeve and Centralizing Washer Fig. 18-Tool C-758 Installed in Housing-Model VC-1

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3-10 REAR AXLE

(7) Correct tearing preload reading can only be obtained with the nose of the carrier up.

Using an inch pound torque wrench Tool C-685, and with the handle of the wrench floating, read the torque when the wrench is moving through at least one full rotation. The correct reading is 20 to 30 inchrpdunds for a new bearing, and zero to 15 inch-pounds for bearing in use and should be uniform during the full rotations. If the bearing preload is more than 30 inch-pounds, a thicker shim should be used under the front bearing. If the bearing preload is less than

20 inch-pounds, a thinner shim should be used. Shims are available in thicknesses of .010, .012, .014, .016 and .018 inch. After proper pinion bearing preload is established, do not remove the tool..

Fig. 1 9— Checking Preload Torque (inch-pounds) ing, making sure the sleeve is flush with the rear of the bearing.

(4) Position the original shims, previously removed from the drive pinion shaft, over the sleeve and slide the sleeve, bearing and shims over the tool main screw until the shims rest against the spacer (Fig. 18).

(5) Install the tool compression sleeve (SP-535)

(square end out), centralizing washer (SP-534) and main screw nut (SP-533). Turn the carrier in the stand to bring the nut on top (Fig. 19).

(6) Tighten the toolnut to 240 foot-pounds Torque, using holding Tool C-3281 on the compression sleeve to hold the assembly in several positions to make a complete revolution while tightening. Remove the holding tool and rotate the assembly several turns in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Recheck the torque to 240 foot-pounds (torque may have diminished as the bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

Depth of Mesh

The position of the drive pinion with respect to the drive gear (depth of mesh) is determined by the location of the bearing cup shoulders i n the carrier and by the portion of the pinion in back of the rear bearing. The thickness of a pinion spacer washer suitable for the carrier can be determined by using

Tool C-758.

(1) Invert the carrier in the stand and install gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 on the end of iM tool (Fig.

20) , attaching it to the tool with the Allen scriw.

The flat portion of the spacer should be facing the differential bearing pedestals and the offset of the spacer (or the large portion) toward the center of the carrier. Tighten the screw with an Allen wrench.

(2) Position arbor SP-561 (part of Tool C-758) in the differential bearing pedestals of the carrier (Fig.

21) . Center the arbor so that an approximate equal distance is maintained at both ends. Position the differential bearing caps and attaching bolts on the carrier pedestals. Insert a piece of .002 inch feeler stock between the arbor and each cap, and tighten the cap bolts securely.

Fig. 20—Installing Gauge Block Fig. 21-Installing Arbor

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REAR AXLE 3-11 shaft with Tool DD-996. An arbor press may be used in conjunction with the tool.

(4) Install the bearing tubular spacer on the pinion shaft (large bore facing the rear bearing).

(5) Install the selected shim pack.

(6) Lubricate the front and rear pinion shaft bearing cones with Multipurpose Gear Lubricant.

(7) Install the front bearing in its cup in the carrier.

(8) Install the oil seal to the carrier with driver

Tool C-3656, lip of seal must face the front bearing.

The seal must be driven into the carrier until the tool bottoms against the front pinion bearing cone

(Fig. 23).

Fig. 22—Determining Spacer Washer Thickness

(3) Select the "gauge washer" that will fit between the tool gauge block and arbor (Fig. 22). The fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge). This washer is used only for determining the correct thickness washer to be used for installation.

(4) To select the proper washer for installation, read the marking on the end of the pinion (—0, —1,

—2, +1, +2, etc.) When the marking, is —(minus), add that amount to the thickness of the "gauge washer" selected in step 3. When the Marking is +

(plus), subtract that amount. Example: With a "gauge washer" .086 inch thick and a pinion marked —2, install spacer washer .088 inch thick (.086 + .002 =

.088). Example: With a "gauge washer" .086 inch thick and a pinion marked +2, install a spacer washer

.084 inch thick, (.086

—

.002 =.084) or when a

"gauge washer" .086 inch thick is too loose and the

.088 inch is too tight, use a .086 inch spacer washer.

(9) Insert the pinion shaft up through the carrier.

While supporting the pinion in the carrier, install the companion flange with installing Tool C-496 or DD-

999.

(10) Remove the tool and install the plain washer and nut (convex side of washer up).

(11) Hold the companion flange with holding Tool

0-3281.' Torque the companion flange nut to 240 footpounds. Rotate the assembly several turns in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Recheck the torque to 240 foot-pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

8. P I N I O N BEARING PRELOAD A N D

P I N I O N SETTING-—MODELS

V C - 2 , V C - 3 , V Y - 1 U S I N G

T O O L C - 7 5 8 - D - 3

Inspect the bearing cups and carrier for grit and dirt. Assemble spacer SP-2921 to the main section of the tool followed by spacer SP-1730. Install the pinion rear bearing over spacer SP-1730 and against spacer

SP-2921 (Fig. 24). Insert the assembly into the carrier

(5) Remove the tool arbor from the carrier.

(6) Remove the tool and bearings out of the carrier.

(7) Remove the shims, spacer, tool sleeve, and rear bearing cone from the tool main screw.

Bearing Installation

(1) With the shaft end of pinion facing up, install the selected correct pinion spacer washer on the pinion gear shaft. These washers have a chamfer on one side. The chamfer must face the pinion head.

(2) Position the rear bearing cone on the pinion shaft (small end away from the pinion gear). Make certain that the contacting surfaces of the correct crasher, pinion gear, and rear bearing cone are perfectly clean and free of any foreign particles.

(3) Install the rear bearing cone onto the pinion Fig. 23—Pinion Oil Seal Installation

3-12 REAR AXLE

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'PINION LOCATING WASHER

NO WASHER OR SPACER

6 0 X I 6 8 A

Fig.24—Tool C-758 Installed in Housing Models VC-2, VC-3, VY-1

60x168A housing arid install the front bearing over the tool shaft and in its proper position in the bearing cup.

Install the tool spacer; tool thrust washer and the tool nut on the shaft. Tighten the tool setting nut to not more than 25 to 50 foot-pounds torque.

Turn the tool several revolutions to permit the bearing rollers to seat. After the bearing rollers have been properly seated, check the bearing preload by rotating the tool with an inch-pound torque wrench.

With the bearings lubricated with hypoid gear oil the correct preload should be from 25 to 50 inchpounds torque.

Assemble gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 to the main screw attaching it with the alien screw securely.

Position tool arbor SP-561 in the differential carrier bearing supports. Insert a piece of .002 inch feeler stock between the arbor and each cap. Install the caps and tighten the bolts to 10 foot-pounds torque.

Select a gauge washer that will just pass between the gauge block end of the tool and the machined surface of the bearing arbor. As an example, if a

.090 inch spacer can be inserted but a .092 inch spacer cannot be forced between the two surfaces by hand, the .090 inch spacer should be used even though it might feel loose.

Note the end of the drive pinion as it will indicate the amount that should be added or subtracted from the spacer that was selected. As an example, if the pinion shaft indicated plus two a .002 inch thinner spacer should be used for final assembly. As an example, if a spacer selected by the use of the tool is .090 inch it is necessary to deduct .002 inch, therefore, the correct spacer for final assembly would be

.088 inch.

To correctly read the markings on the end of the drive pinion, always remember that the plus (-+-) symbol indicates a deduction of the required spacer thickness, whereas the minus (—) symbol indicates the necessity for a thicker spacer.

When the correct spacer is selected for the drive pinion, disassemble the setting tool from the differential carrier housing and add the pinion positioning spacer just selected to the tool, between spacer SP-

2921 and the pinion rear bearing. Install spacer

SP-1730 and the pinion bearing adjusting spacer from the previous bearings. Insert the tool assembly in the carrier housing. Place the forward roller bearing over the shaft and in position in the carrier bearing cup. Install the tool spacer, tool nut washer and tool nut on the shaft. Hold the compression sleeve nut with holding Tool C-3281 and tighten the nut to 240 foot-pounds torque. Turn the tool several revolutions to permit the bearing rollers to seat. After the bearing rollers have been properly seated measure the bearing preload by rotating the tool with an inch-pound torque wrench. With the bearing lubricated with

Multipurpose Gear Lubricant, the- correct preload specifications are from 45 to 50 inch-pounds torque.

If the bearing adjustment does not conform to specifications it will be necessary to change the adjustment by either a thicker or thinner pinion bearing spacer. If the preload is too great it will be necessary to install a thicker spacer and if the pre-load is not sufficient a thinner spacer will be necessary.

When the correct spacer is selected for the drive pinion bearing, disassemble the tool from the differential carrier housing and install the bearings, pinion positioning spacer and bearing spacer to the pinion and install the assembly in the housing. Measure the turning torque, it should be 20 to 30 inch pounds before installing the seal. If not within specifications, correct as necessary.

Assembly of Pinion Carrier

With the shaft end of pinion facing up, install the

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REAR AXLE 3-13 selected washer on the pinion stem, with the chamfered side of the washer facing the drive pinion gear.

Position the rear bearing on the pinion shaft. Make sure the contacting surfaces of the washer, pinion gear and rear bearing are perfectly clean and free from dirt or foreign particles. Install the rear bearing cone onto the pinion shaft with Tool DD-955. Install the selected shim pack. Lubricate the front and rear bearing. Insert the pinion and bearing assembly in the carrier. Apply a light coat of sealer in the carrier bore at the seal area. Install a new seal with Tool

C-3656 until the driver bottoms on the pinion front bearing. Install and support the pinion gear assembly in the carrier, and install the universal joint flange with installing Tool C-496 or DD-999. Install the plain washer (concave side of washer down) and nut.

Tighten the flange nut to 240 foot-pounds torque and remove the flange holding tool. bearing cups in position in the carrier and drive the cups in place with a suitable drift. After properly positioning of the bearing cups in the carrier, assemble the drive pinion thrust washer (chamfered side down toward gear) on the drive pinion stem.

Install the rear bearing, spacer (if so equipped) and shims on the pinion stem. Insert the pinion shaft into the carrier. Install the front pinion bearing, universal joint flange, washer and nut.

Do not install the oil seal. Tighten the drive pinion flange nut to 240 footpounds torque. Rotate the drive pinion shaft after tightening the flange nut, to properly seat the bearing rollers in the bearing cups. The pre-loacf torque required to rotate the pinion shaft with the bearings oiled should be 20 to 30 inch-pounds torque for new bearings and 0 to 15 inch-pounds for bearings in use.

Add shims to decrease torque or remove slums to increase torque. A#er the correct pinion setting and bearing preload has been obtained, remove the drive pinion flange. Install the oil seal. Install the pinion flange, washer and nut. Tighten the pinion nut to the proper torque.

9 . P I N I O N BEARING PRELOAD A N D

P I N I O N SETTING

(Without Using Special Tool C-7581

If the differential assembly was satisfactorily quiet before being disassembled, the drive pinion may be assembled with the original adjusting washers and shims. If replacement parts are installed, or differential adjustment is necessary, the proper thickness washer must be installed between the pinion and rear bearing. The drive gear and pinion are manufactured and lapped in matching sets. The adjustment position in which the best tooth contact is obtained is etched on the end of the pinion shaft.

To obtain the proper pinion setting in relation to the drive gear, the correct thickness thrust washer must be selected before the drive pinion is 'installed in the carrier. The pinion bearing adjusting washers are available from .084 inch to .100 inch in 002 inch steps. To select the proper thickness thrust washer, proceed as follows: It will be noted that the face of the drive pinion is etched with a plus (+) or minus

(—) sign, followed by a number ranging from 1 to 4, or zero (0) marking.

Depth of Mesh

If the old and new pinion have the same marking and if the original bearing is being reused, use a thrust washer of the same thickness. But if the old pinion is marked zero (0) and the new pinion is marked -f 2, try a .002 inch thinner washer. If the new pinion is marked —2, try a .002 inch thicker washer.

Pinion Bearing Preload

If the bearing cups are to be replaced, place the

10. DIFFERENTIAL CASE ASSEMBLY-—

INSTALLATION

Installation in Carrier

(1) Install the differential bearing cup on its respective bearing, and position the assembly in the carrier.

(2) Install the differential bearing caps, making certain that the identification marks on the cap correspond with those on the carrier. Install the attaching bolts and tighten the bolts of each cap by hand.

V V 57x20

Fig. 25—Adjusting Differential Bearings

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3-14 REAR AXLE

(3) Note the identification marks on the differential bearing adjusters and reinstall each in its respective side.

(4) Screw the adjuster in by hand. No attempt should be made at this time to apply an excessive pressure. To square the bearing cups with the bearing, turn the adjusters "in" with spanner wrenches

Tool C-406A (Fig. 25), until cups are properly squared with the bearings and end play is eliminated with some backlash existing between the drive gear and pinion.

(5) While facing each bearing support cap, tighten the left hand bolt 85 to 90 foot-pounds torque on each side.

CORRECT

ADJUSTMENT

DRIVE

PINION SPACER >

TOO THICK

I — «

Toe, Low Heel, Low

PINION SPACER v / ? S = = >

COAST

TOO

THIN ( < A ^ Z X

Heel, High Toe, High

GEAR TOO CLOSE v / T = ^ = V / ^ ^ £ = v

TO PINION I

~ l

^ ^ S ^ A

Slightly Higher

1 1 . DRIVE GEAR A N D P I N I O N B A C K L A S H

The drive and pinion backlash should be .006 to

.008 inch at the point of minimum backlash.

(1) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-340 or C-3339 to the carrier flange so pointer or indicator is squarely contacting one of the drive gear teeth (drive side)

(Fig. 26).

(2) Measure the backlash between the drive gear and pinion. After the first reading is taken, move the dial indicator away from the tooth sufficiently to rotate the drive gear approximately 90 degrees and again measure the backlash. The backlash should be measured in four different positions to determine the least clearance between the drive gear and pinion.

After the point of least clearance has been established, mark the drive gear. Do not rotate the drive gear from the point of least clearance until all adjustments have been completed.

(3) Turn both bearing adjusters equally (in the same direction) until the backlash between the drive

GEAR TOO FAR

FROM PINION

Slightly Lover

1. P I N I O N S P A C E R C H A N G E S A F F E C T THE C O A S T SIDE C O N T A C T

FASTER T H A N THE, DRIVE SIDE

2 .

B A C K L A S H A D J U S T M E N T S A F F E C T THE DRIVE SIDE C O N T A C T

M U C H FASTER T H A N T H E C O A S T SIDE

3 . A L L B A C K L A S H M E A S U R E M E N T S S H O U L D B E M A D E A T T H E

POINT O F M I N I M U M B A C K L A S H

60x1022A

Fig. 27

—

Gear Tooth Contact Pattern gear and the pinion is .0005 to .0015 inch, this backlash variation is given to permit alignment and installation of the bearing adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching bolt. The adjuster must only be turned in a clockwise direction and under no circumstances should be backed off.

(4) Install the adjuster lock on the back-face side of the drive gear.

Slcfe Bearing Preload

(1) Turn the bearing adjuster (tooth side of drive gear) (Fig. 26) in a notch at a time (notch referred to is the adjuster lock holes) until the backlash between the drive gear and pinion is a minimum of

.006 inch to .008 inch. This will preload the bearings and establish the correct backlash.

(2) Tighten the remaining two bearing support cap bolts 85 to 90 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the remaining adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching bolts. Tighten the lock retaining cap screws 15 to 20 foot-pounds torque.

57x21

Fig. 26

—

Measuring the Drive Gear and Pinion

Back Lash

1 2 . G E A R T O O T H CONTACT PATTERN

The gear tooth contact pattern (Fig. 27) will disclose whether the correct washer has been installed behind the pinion rear bearing and the drive gear has been positioned properly. Refer to Figure 27 for various gear tooth contact patterns.

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REAR AXLE 3-15

Obtaining Tooth Contact Pattern

Apply red lead to the drive gear teeth and apply a load against the back of the drive gear with a round bar. As this pressure is being applied to the drive gear, rotate the pinion. This action will leave a distinct contact pattern on the gear teeth. The series of illustrations shows the correct pattern as well as a series of incorrect patterns.

Correct Adjustment—Proper Tooth Contact

With the adjustments properly made, correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 27, will result. Notice that contact pattern is well centered on the drive and coast sides. When tooth contact patterns are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small.

Under an actual operating load, however, the contact area increases.

If improper tooth contact is evident, as shown in

Figure 27, the pinion should be adjusted either forward or backward, maintaining the backlash within specified limits until the correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 27 is obtained.

Heavy Face Contact

If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth face, narrow and near the top, the teeth will wear thin and roll over or score, resulting in excessive gear lash and noise. This condition is corrected by installing a thicker washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

Heavy Fiank Contact

If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth and is narrow and low on the flank, the pinion teeth will score and also result in noise. This condition is corrected by installing a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

Heavy Heel Contact

If the tooth pattern is heavy on the toe of the tooth, the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive damage of the entire assembly. This condition is corrected by moving the drive gear away from the pinion. This will increase the backlash making it necessary to insert a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

Heavy Toe Contact

If the tooth pattern is heavy on the heel of the teeth, the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive damage to the entire assembly. This condition is corrected by moving the drive gear toward the pinion. This would result in decreasing the backlash making it necessary to insert a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.

13. REAR A X L E H O U S I N G — W E L D I N G

The axle housing should be completely disassembled if it is to be welded with arc welding equipment.

It is also possible to weld the assembled housing with gas welding equipment, if precaution is taken to protect gaskets and heat-treated parts.

14. DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION

(1) Using a new gasket, install the carrier assembly to the axle housing. Tighten the mounting nuts to

45 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Press the bearings on the axle shafts. Lubricate the bearing rollers with grease, align axle splines, and insert the axle shafts in the housing. Install the axle drive shaft outer bearing cups with Tool C-413.

(3) Install new gaskets and shims in same manner in which they were removed to maintain central position of the axle shaft thrust block. Install a new seal in the brake support plate with Tool C-3565 with the lip of the seal facing toward the center of the vehicle.

(4) Install the brake support plate and tighten the nuts 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Measure the axle shaft end play, as outlined in Paragraph 1.

(6) Install the hub and drum assemblies.

(7) Tighten the axle shaft nuts 145 foot-pounds torque minimum, and install new cotter pins.

(8) Connect the rear universal joint.

(9) Remove the block from the brake pedal and bleed the brake lines.

(10) Refill the axle housing and carrier assembly with the specified lubricant. Refer to the "Lubrication" Group 0.

(11) Install the wheels and tires and tighten in the sequence outlined in "Wheels, Bearings and Tires,"

Group 22.

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3-16 SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

The sure-grip differential (Figs. 28, 29, 30, and 31) is similar to the conventional differential except for the addition of friction plates and belleville plates and discs for clutching the differential case to the differential gears and a means for engaging these plates. The belleville plates and discs accomplish a positive engagement of the clutch discs and plates at all times by placing a preload on the plates and discs.

It has four pinion gears, positioned in the case by two pinion shafts which are at right angles to each other and loose fitting at their inter-section. Both ends of each shaft have two flat surfaces, or ramps, which mate with identical ramps in the differential case. There is additional clearance in the case to permit a slight peripheral movement of the ends of the pinion shafts within the case.

Fig. 28—Sure-Grip Differential (Schematic)

1 5 . S U R E - G R I P D I F F E R E N T I A L —

IDENTIFICATION

Identification of sure-grip type differential assembly can be made by the letter "S" stamped on the identification pad on the right side of carrier housing, or by a metal tag reading, "Use Sure-Grip Lube" attached by means of the rear axle housing-to-carrier bolt, below the carrier filler plug. If the letter "S" or tag is not apparent, remove the filler plug and use a flashlight to look up through the filler plug hole to identify the type of differential case. The gure-grip type differential case (two-piece construction) has at-

Fig. 29—Sure-Grip Differential (Cross-Section)

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SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL 3-17

Fig. 30—Power-Flow—Axles Turning at Same Speeds

Fig. 32—Case Halves Scribed for Reassembly taching bolts. The conventional type differential case

(one-piece construction) has a dome-like shape with no case cap attaching bolts.

1 6 . LUBRICATION

Use MoPar Hypoid Lubricant Part Number 1879414 for Sure-Grip Differential. Fill until the fluid level comes between the bottom of the filler hole and

V2 inch below.

1 7 . S U R E - G R I P DIFFERENTIAL

R E M O V A L A N D INSTALLATION

WARNING: Before raising a rear wheel off the ground, shut off the engine, set parking brake tightly, carefully, block front wheel, diagonally opposite the one to be removed, against both forward and rearward movement.

Follow the same procedure outlined under removal

Fig. 31—Power-Flow—Axles Turning at Different

Speeds

Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Differential

Case Cap

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3-18 SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

BELLEVILLE

PLATE

CLUTCH

PLATES

SIDE GEAR

RETAINER

SIDE GEAR

AXLE SHAFT

THRUST SPACER

$ x 7 2 Q A

Fig.

34— Removing or Installing Clutch Plates

(Cap Side) and installation of the conventional rear axle differential. . , .

;

,..,:r

1 8 . DISASSEMBLY

(1) Remove the axle drive gear. Measure the runout of the drive gear mounting flange. Replace both case halves if the runout exceeds .003 inch

(2) Before disassembling the ease halves, place scribe marks on each half to aid in aligning the case when reassembling (Fig. 32). Remove the case cap attaching bolts and remove the case cap (Fig. 33).

Remove the clutch plates (Fig. 34).

(3) Remove the side gear retainer (Fig. 35), and the side gear (Fig. 36).

(4) Remove the pinion shafts with the pinion gears

(Fig. 37).

(5) Remove the remaining side gear (Fig. 38), the

58x722

Fig. 36—Removing or Installing Side Gear (Cap Side)

PINION

SHAFTS

PINION

GEARS

AXLE SHAFT

THRUST SPACER 58x723

Fig. 37—Removing or Installing Pinion Shafts and

Gears

_ - : S I D E GEAR

SIDE GEAR

RETAINER

SIDE GEAR

RETAINER

SIDE GEAR

58x721

Fig.

35— Removing or Installing Side Gear Retainer

(Cap Side) i

58x724

Fig.

38— Removing or Installing Side Gear from

Differential Case

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SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL 3-19

X FLAT PLATE DISHED PLATE FLAT PLATE

58x725

Fig. 39—Removing or Installing Side Gear Retainer

2 x 1 2 6 A

Fig.

41— Arrangement of Clutch Plates, Discs and Washers side gear retainer (Fig. 39) and the clutch plates

(Fig. 40).

(6) Remove the axle shaft thrust spacer by pressing out the lock pin.

1 9 . C L E A N I N G A N D INSPECTION

Clean all the parts thoroughly. Inspect all the parts for wear, nicks and burrs. The inner and outer flat clutch plates and outer flat clutch disc should be replaced if they are worn or distorted. If the case is worn, it will be necessary to replace both halves.

2 0 . ASSEMBLY

(1) Position the clutch plates and discs in their proper location in each half of the case, as shown in

Figure 41.

(2) Place the side gears in their retainers. Insert splines of the retainers through the splines of the clutch discs.

(3) Place the aligning pin through one axle shaft thrust spacer. Assemble the pinion shafts on aligning pin.

(4) Place the pinion gears on shafts and install the assembly on the drive gear half of the case. Insert the thrust spacer in the pinion shaft (Fig. 42).

(5) Slide the cap half of case over the edge of bench far enough to insert one finger up through the assembly to hold it together. Place the assembly on the drive gear half, matching the scribe marks.

(6) Make sure the markings on each differential case half coincide. Install the differential case bolts and turn them in a few threads. •

(7) Insert the axle shafts from the vehicle to align the splines. Make sure the axle shafts engage the

Fig.

40— Removing or Installing Clutch Plates

58x727

Fig.

42— Installing Axle Shaft Thrust Spacers

3-20 REAR AXLE—DIAGNOSIS

FEELER G A U G E S

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FEELER G A U G E S

5 9 x 1 7 2 -

Fig.

—Measuring the Clearance Between

Pinion Shaft a n d Case

Fig. -Measuring the Clearance of Pinion

Shaft and Cap side gear splines as well as the clutch ring splines.

(8) With the shafts installed, center the cross shafts between the two ramp surfaces in the differential case. Tighten the differential case bolts evenly by alternately turning opposite bolts until all are tightened to 45 foot-pound torque. To keep the splines of the side gear and the clutch plates in exact alignment during the tightening procedure, move the axle shafts back and forth as the bolts are being tightened. After assembly, slight misalignments of the splines can be corrected by moving the axle shafts black and forth until free. Remove the axle shafts.

(9) With the differential resting on one hub, insert two feeler blades* one over each end of the pinion shaft having ramps above it (Fig. 43).-The clearance should not exceed .010 inch at each end of the shaft.

(10) Invert the differential to rest on the oppose hub. Measure the opposite pinion shaft in like manner to the same specifications (Fig. 44).

The measurements over .010 inch indicate that the clutch discs are worn and should be replaced. New discs and plates may produce a clearance of as little as .002 inch. With either new or used discs, the measurement of the two shafts should be within .005 of each other.

When installing the rear axle shaft outer oil seal, use Tool C-3565 and seal protector Tool C-745 When installing the brake support over the rear axle shaft.

Before lowering the rear wheels of the vehicle to the floor, adjust the rear brakes.

CAUTION: Both rear wheels must be raised off the floor.

Condition

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possibl©

Cause

Rear Axle Noise

Wheel loose on axle drum.

(b) Worn drum or worn axle shaft keyways.

(c) Wheel hub bolts loose.

(d) Brinelled or scored wheel bearings.

(e) Insufficient lubrication.

(f)

Bent axle shaft or wheel and hub.

(g) Lubricant level low.

Correction

(a) Tighten wheel in sequence outline in "Wheels and Tires".

(b) Replace drum or axle shaft as necessary.

(c) Tighten bolts to correct torque.

(d) Replace wheel bearings.

(e) Add the specified lubricant as required.

(f) Replace wheel, hub or drum as necessary.

(g) Add lubricant as required.

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Condition

Rear Axle Noise Cont.

Over-Heating of the

Axle Unit

Loss of L u b r i c a n t

REAR AXLE—DIAGNOSIS 3-21

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible

Cause Correction

( h )

End play in drive pinion bearing.

(i)

Excessive gear lash between drive gear and pinion

(j)

Loose drive pinion companion flange nut.

( k )

Damaged gears. f a ) Lubricant level too low.

(b) Bearing adjusted too tightly. f c ) Excessive wear in gears.

( a ) Lubricant level too high.

(b) Improper type lubricant.

( C )

Clogged breather.

(d) Oil seals worn.

(h) Measure and adjust end play.

(i)

Measure and adjust gear lash.

(j) Tighten flange nut to 240 (min.) foot-pounds torque.

( k )

Replace gears as required.

(a) Add the specified lubricant as required.

(b) Adjust bearings correctly. f c ) Replace excessively worn gears.

(a) Remove excessive lubricant.

(b) Remove lubricant and replace with the specified type

( c ) Clean breather thoroughly.

(d) Replace seals as required.

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BRAKES 5 -1

GROUP 5

BRAKES

CONTENTS

Page Page

Testing Automatic Adjuster O p e r a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Parking Brake Cable (Rear) 10

Brake Drum—Removal 4

Grinding R e c o m m e n d a t i o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 Booster Brake—Removal (Midland Ross) . . 17

Brake Shoe

—

Installation. 5

Wheel Cylinders. 8

SPECIFICATIONS

VC -1 V € - 2 f

V C - 3 VY-1

Type Duo-Servo Single Anchor

Drum Diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11 in.

(Police & Heavy Duty).

Number of Brake Shoes 3

Width

Front. . .

in.

Rear . 2Vi in. 3 in.

3 in.

(Police & Heavy Duty)

Front. 3 in.

Rear. V . . 3 in.

Town & Country (Front & Rear) 3 in.

Brake Lining Bonded Moulded Asbestos

Length & Color Code Markings

Front Primary 12V4" 1 black and 1 orange mark

Front Secondary. 1 2 W 2 red marks

Rear Primary 12

/s" 1 black and 1 orange mark

Rear Secondary 12

/s" 2 red marks

(Police Special)

Front Primary 9V4" 3 black marks

Front Secondary \2W 2 black and 1 white marks

Rear Primary 9!4" 3 black marks

Rear Secondary 12 W 2 black and 1 white marks

Thickness (all) % in.

Wheel Cylinder

Front Wheel Cylinder Bore 1 V4 in.

Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore.. % in-

Master Cylinder Bore

1 m

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5-2 BRAKES

SPECIAL T O O L S

C-416 Clamps—Brake Cylinder Piston

C-650 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H o s e — B r a k e Bleeder

C-845 Puller—Wheel

C-3080 , . ; .Hone—Brake Cylinder

C - 3 4 9 6 . Tank—Brake Bleeder

C-3784 . . Adjuster—Brake Shoe

C-378 5> Remover and Installer—Brake Spring

TORQUE REFERENCE

Mounting Bracket to Firewall Nuts. 100 in.-lbs.

Master Cylinder to Vacuum Cylinder Nut.

.100

in.-lbs.

Wheel Stud Nuts .60 ft.-ibs.

A D J U S T I N G S C R E W

Fig. 1—Front Brake A s s e m b l y (Disassembled)

6 2 x 5 0 1 B

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BRAKES 5-3

SERVICE BRAKES

The brakes are of a two shoe, self-adjusting, internal expanding, duo-servo type with a primary and secondary shoe. The adjusting screw is located at the lower end and between the primary and secondary shoes. Figures 1 and 2. Police cars with heavy duty brakes are not self-adjusting.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. SERVICE BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Normally self-adjusting brakes will not require a manual adjustment, but in the event of a brake reline it may be advisable to make the initial adjustment manually to speed up the adjusting time.

(1) Jack up the vehicle so all wheels are free to turn.

(2) Remove the rear adjusting hole cover from th$ backing plate on all of the brake supports of the vehicle.

(3) Be sure the parking brake lever is fully released, then back off the parking brake cable adjustment so there is slack in the cable.

(4) Insert the adjusting Tool C-3784, into the star wheel of the adjusting screw. Move the handle of the tool downward until a slight drag is felt when the road wheel is rotated.

(5) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and push the adjusting lever out of engagement with the star wheel (Fig. 3), while

Fig. 2 —Rear Brake Assembly (Disassembled)

6 2 x 5 0 2 A

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5-4 BRAKES is working properly. If by the described procedure one or more automatic adjusters do not function properly, the respective drum must be removed for adjuster servicing.

3 .

BRAKE DRUM

Removing the Front Brake Drums

To aid in the brake drum removal loosen the brake adjuster first, as shown in Figure 3.

(1) With the vehicle on a hoist, jack or suitable stands remove the rear plug from the brake adjusting access hole.

(2) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and push the adjusting lever away from the star adjusting wheel.

Fig.

3 —Releasing Brake Adjustment C A U T I O N : Care should be taken not to bend the ad jysting lever. holding the adjusting lever out of engagement, back off the star wheel 10 to 12 notches to insure a free wheel with no brake shoe drag.

(3) Insert Tool C-3784 into the brake adjusting hole and engage the notches of the brake adjusting screw. Release the brake adjustment by prying up with the adjusting tool. (6) Repeat the above adjustment at each wheel.

The adjustment must be equal at all wheels. Install the adjusting hole covers in the brake supports.

(7) Tighten the parking brake cable adjusting nut until a slight drag is felt at the rear wheels, loosen the cable adjusting nut until both rear wheels can be rotated freely, then back off the cable adjusting nut two full turns.

(4) Remove the wheel cover, grease cap, cotter pin, lock, adjusting nut, outer wheel bearing and remove the wheel and drum assembly from the spindle,

(5) Inspect the brake lining for wear, shoe alignment, or damage from grease or brake fluid.

2 . TESTING AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER

O P E R A T I O N

R e m o v i n g the Rear Brake Drums

(1) With the vehicle on a hoist, jack, or suitable stands, remove the rear plug from the brake adjusting access hole. Place the vehicle on a hoist, with a helper in the driver's seat to apply the brakes. Remove the plug from the rear adjustment slot in each brake support plate to observe the adjuster star wheel. Then, to exclude the possibility of maximum adjustment; that is, the adjuster refuses to operate because the closest possible adjustment has been reached; the star wheel should be backed off approximately 30 notches. It will be necessary to hold the adjuster lever away from the star wheel to allow backing off of the adjustment.

(2) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and hold the adjusting lever away from the notches of the adjusting screw.

(3) Insert Tool C-3784 into the brake adjusting hole and engage the notches of the brake adjusting screw. Release the brake by prying up with the adjusting tool.

(4) Remove the wheel cover, cotter pin and axle nut.

(5) Install rear wheel hub puller Tool C-845, and remove the hub and drum assembly.

Spin the wheel and brake drum in the reverse direction and apply the brakes vigorously. This will provide the necessary inertia to cause the secondary brake shoe to leave the anchor. The wrap up effect will move the secondary shoe and the cable will pull the adjuster lever up. Upon release of the brake pedal, the lever should snap downward, turning the star wheel. Thus, a definite rotation of the adjuster star wheel can be observed if the automatic adjuster

4 .

(6) Inspect the brake lining for wear, shoe alignment or damage from grease or brake fluid.

BRAKE SHOES

C A U T I O N : Install brake cylinder piston clamps,

Toot C-416 to prevent fluid leakage or air entering the hydraulic system during brake shoe removal.

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BRAKES 5-5 screw, adjusting lever, adjusting spring, cable and cable guide.

Fig.

4 —Removing Brake Shoe Return Spring

Removing the Rear Brake Shoes

(1) With the vehicle elevated on a hoist, jack or suitable stand use Tool C-845 and remove the hub and drum.

(2) Using Tool C-3785 remove the brake shoe return springs, as shown in Figure 4.

(3) Remove the brake shoe retainer, spring and rods (Refer to Fig. 5).

(4) Remove the anchor pin plate and tilt the brake shoe assembly out from the backing plate.

(5) Spread the anchor ends of the primary and secondary shoes and remove the parking brake strut and spring.

(6) Disengage the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever and remove the brake assembly.

(7) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and secondary shoes and remove the adjusting screw, adjusting lever, adjusting spring, cable and cable guide.

Removing the F r o n t B r a k e Shoes

With the vehicle elevated on a hoist, jack or suitable stands, remove the front wheels and drums.

(1) Using Tool C-3785 remove the brake shoe return springs, as shown in Figure 4.

(2) Remove the brake shoe retainer, spring and rods, as shown in Figure 1.

(3) Remove the anchor pin plate.

(4) Remove the primary and secondary brake shoe assembly from the backing plate.

(5) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and secondary brake shoes and remove the adjusting

Inspecting the Brake Shoes

Wipe or brush clean (dry) the metal portions of the brake shoes. Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are bent. The lining should show contact across the entire width, extending from heel to toe. Shoes showing contact only on one side should be replaced. Shoes having sufficient lining but lack of contact at toe and heel should be measured for proper grind.

G R I N D I N G RECOMMENDATIONS

Brake Shoe Lining

—

New lining should be measured and ground .060 to .080 (maximum) under the drum diameter.

Drum Refacing

—

Measure the drum runout with an accurate gauge. Drum runout should not exceed .006 inch out of round. If the drum runout is in excess of .006 inch, the drum should be refaced. Remove only as much material as is necessary to clean up the drum.

Do not reface more than .060 inch ovet the standard drum diameter.

Fig.

5 —Automatic Brake Adjuster

—

Rear

6. B R A K E S H O E INSTALLATION

Front Brake Shoe

NOTE: Inspect the backing plate platform for burrs and apply a light coat of Mopar Sylglyde.

(1) Match a primary with a secondary brake shoe and place them in their relative position on a work bench.

(2) Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw and install it between the primary and secondary

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5 -6 BRAKES shoes with the star wheel next to the secondary shoe.

(Refer to Fig. 2.) The star adjusting wheels are stamped "R" (right side) and " L " (left side), and indicate their location on the vehicle.

(3) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and the secondary brake shoes and install the adjusting spring and lever.

(4) Spread the anchor ends of the brake shoes to maintain the adjusting lever and spring in position.

(5) Holding the brake shoes in their relative position, place the brake shoe assembly on the backing plate and over the anchor pin (Fig. 6).

(6) Install the retainer rods, cups, springs and retainers.

(7) Install the anchor pin plate.

(8) Install the cable guide in the secondary shoe and place the "eye" of the adjusting cable over the anchor pin.

(9) Using Tool C-3785 install the return spring into the primary shoe, and using Tool C-3785 position spring end over anchor.

(10) Install the secondary return spring in the same manner.

(11) Lubricate the groove of the cable guide and place the adjusting cable over the guide and engage the hook of the cable into the adjusting lever.

(12) Lubricate the wheel bearings and install the brake drum and adjust the wheel bearing.

(13) Adjust the brakes.

Installing the Rear Brake Shoes

(1) Inspect the platforms of the backing plate for nicks or burrs. Apply a thin coat of Sylglyde to the backing plate platforms.

Pig. 6—Installing Brake Assembly to Support Plate

(2) Attach the parking brake lever to the back side of the secondary shoe. (Refer to Fig. 2 and 5.)

(3) Place the secondary and a primary shoe in their relative position on a work bench.

(4) Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw and install it between the primary and secondary shoes with the star wheel next to the secondary shoe.

The star adjusting wheels are stamped "R" (right side) and " L " (left side), and indicate their location on the vehicle.

(5) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and the secondary brake shoes and install the adjusting spring and lever.

(6) Holding the brake shoes in their relative position and engage the parking brake cable into the parking brake lever.

(7) Install the parking brake strut and spring between the parking brake lever and the primary shoe.

(Refer to Fig. 5.)

(8) Place the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the retainer rods, cups, springs and retainers.

(9) Install the anchor pin plate.

(10) Install the "eye" of the adjusting cable over the anchor pin and install the small return spring between the primary shoe and the anchor pin.

(11) Lubricate the groove of the cable guide and install it in the secondary shoe then install the secondary return spring.

(12) Place the adjusting cable in the groove of the cable guide and engage the hook of the cable into the adjusting lever.

•(1(3) Install the brake drum and tighten the axle nut to 145 foot-pounds torque.

(14)

Adjust the brakes.

BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM

Clean all dirt and foreign material from the cover of the master cylinder to prevent any drit from falling into the master cylinder reservoir when the cover is removed.

Using automatic refiller Tool C-8378 (with adaptor

C-3494A) or the one man bleeder tank C-3496 (with adaptor C-3494A) provides a convenient means of keeping the master cylinder full while bleeding the hydraulic system.

NOTE: The brakes may also be bled manually by having an assistant depress the brake pedal while the brakes are being bled. Be certain to refill the master cylinder after bleeding each wheel.

Tighten the brakes of each wheel until the brakes are locked. (This reduces the movement of the wheel cylinder cups and assists in bleeding.)

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BRAKES 5-7

Starting with the right rear wheel clean all dirt from the bleeder valve. Place bleeder hose C-650 on the bleeder valve and insert the other end of the bleeder hose into a clean jar half filled with brake fluid. (This will permit the observation of air bubbles as they are being expelled from the hydraulic system and also prevent air from being drawn back into the system as the brake pedal is released on manual bleeding.) Follow the manufacturers instructions in the use of the bleeder tools.

When manually bleeding the hydraulic system, push the brake pedal down and let it return slowly, to avoid air being drawn into the system. Bleed intermittently by opening and closing the valve about every four seconds. This causes a swirling action in the cylinder and assists in expelling the air. Continue the action until the brake fluid is expelled in a solid stream, without any bubbles.

Continue this bleeding operation on the other wheels, starting with the left rear wheel, then the right front and finishing with the left front wheel.

If necessary, repeat this bleeding operation if there is any indication (a low, soft or spongy brake pedal) of air remaining in the hydraulic system. Readjust the brakes.

8 . MASTER CYLINDER

Removes/

(1) Remove the pedal return spring.

(2) Disconnect the push rod from the pedal.

(3) Disconnect the brake tube at the master cylinder.

(4) Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the master cylinder to the dash panel. Slide the master cylinder straight out and away from the dash panel.

Disassembly (Fig* 7)

Clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly, then remove the cover and drain all the brake fluid. Refer to Figure 7 and disassemble the master cylinder for inspection as follows:

(5) Remove the piston stop flange attaching screws and remove the dust boot, push rod and piston assembly. (Do not remove the push rod from the piston.)

(6) Remove the brass washer between the piston and the cup. Remove the master cylinder cup, spring, valve and seal from the master cylinder.

(7) Wash the master cylinder in a suitable solvent and inspect for a scored or pitted cylinder.

If the master cylinder piston is badly scored or corroded, replace it with a new one. The piston cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning the master cylinder.

Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. However, cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, providing the

B O D Y

R I N G

R O D

S P R I N G

S T O P

S C R E W

Fig. 7—Master Cylinder Assembly (Disassembled)

60x1613B

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5-8 BRAKES diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A master cylinder bore that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder wall are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)

CAUTION: Use extreme care in cleaning the master cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lint Bess cloth and clean a second time with alcohol. Dry the master cylinder with air pressure, then flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sum the compensator port in the master cylinder bore is open.)

Assembly

Before assembling, the piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in new MoPar brake fluid.

(1) Install the seal check valve and spring in the cylinder with the valve toward the outlet of the cylinder

(Fig. 7).

(2) Install the master cylinder cup in the cylinder with the open end of the cup over the closed end of the return spring.

(3) Install the secondary cup on the master cylinder piston and install the piston and push rod assembly in the cylinder with the flat brass washer between the piston and the cup.

(4) Install the dust boot on the push rod and install the stop flange screws.

Installation

(1) Reinstall the master cylinder on the dash panel and fill with Mopar brake fluid.

(2) Attach the brake line.

(3) Bleed the brake system.

9 . WHEEL CYLINDERS

Disassembly

(1) With all the brake drums removed inspect the wheel cylinder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. (A slight amount of fluid on the boot may not be a leak, but may be preservative oil used on the assembly.)

(2) In the case of a leak, remove the brake shoes

(replace if soaked with grease or brake fluid), boots, piston wheel cylinder cups and wheel cylinder cup expansion spring.

(3) Wash the cylinder with alcohol and inspect the cylinder for scores or pits.

Wheel cylinder pistons that are badly scored or corroded should be replaced. The old piston cups should be discarded when reconditioning the hydraulic system.

Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth, using a circular motion. However, cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, using Tool C-3080, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch.

A cylinder that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)

Assembly

Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the wheel cylinder, dip them in MoPar brake luicL

Refer to Figure 8, then assemble the brake cylinders.

If the boots are deteriorated, or do not fit tightly on the brake shoe pin, as well as the wheel cylinder casting, new boots should be installed.

(1) Wash the wheel cylinder with alcohol and blow dry with air.

(2) Install the expansion spring in the cylinder.

Install the wheel cylinder cups in each end of the cylinder with the open end of the cups facing each other.

B O D Y - — _

B O O T

P I S T O N

B O O T

C U P '

S C R E W 6 0 x 1 6 1 4 A

Fig. 8—Wheel Cylinder Assembly (Disassembled)

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BRAKES 5-9

(3) Install the wheel cylinder pistons in each end of the cylinder with the recessed end of the pistons facing the open ends of the cylinder.

(4) Install the boots over the ends of the cylinder.

Keep the assembly compressed with the aid of a brake cylinder clamp until the brake shoes are assembled.

1 0 . BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE

Removal (Front)

(1) With the wheel and brake drum removed, remove the four support plate attaching nuts and washers.

(2) Disconnect the brake line from the brake hose.

(3) Remove the support plate and brake assembly from the spindle.

Removal (Rear)

(1) With the wheel and brake drum removed, remove the backing plate attaching nuts and washers.

(2) Remove the rear axle shaft and retainer.

(3) Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from the wheel cylinder.

(4) Disengage the brake cable from the parking brake lever.

(5) Using a suitable tool compress the three flared legs of the cable retainer and pull the brake cable out of the support plate (Fig. 9).

(6) Remove the brake support plate from the rear axle housing.

Installation (Front)

(1) With the brake shoes installed on the support plate, apply a small amount of a putty type sealing material around the back side of all holes and openings of the support plate to prevent any water or dirt from entering the brake assembly.

(2) Place the support plate on the spindle support and install the attaching bolts, nuts and washers.

Tighten the retainer nuts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Attach the brake line to the wheel cylinder and tighten to 95 inch-pounds torque.

(4) Install the brake drum and wheel bearings. Adjust the bearings. Bleed and adjust the brakes.

Installation (Rear)

(1) With the brake shoes installed on the support plate, apply a small amount of putty type sealing material around the back side of all the holes and openings of the support plate to prevent any water or dirt from entering the brake assembly.

(2) Install the support plate onto the rear axle housing.

(3) Insert the rear axle shaft and retainer into the housing and install the axle retainer nuts and washers.

Tighten the retainer nuts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Attach the brake line to the wheel cylinder and tighten to 95 inch-pounds torque.

(5) Insert the parking brake cable into the support plate and attach the cable to the parking brake lever.

(6) Install the brake drum and wheel. Bleed and adjust the brakes.

1 1 . WHEEL STUD TIGHTENING

NOTE: The tightening sequence and torquing of the wheel stud nuts is of great importance to insure efficient brake operation.

The use of an impact or long handled wrench may distort the drum.

A criss-cross tightening sequence should be used

(Fig. 10). Tighten all the stud nuts to one-half the specified torque first (30 ft. lbs.), and then repeat the sequence tightening to the specified 55 footpounds torque.

©

Fig. 9—-Removing Brake Cable From Support Plate Fig. 10—Wheel Stud Nut Tightening

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5-10 BRAKES

1 2 . TEST FOR FLUID C O N T A M I N A T I O N

To determine if contamination exists in the brake fluid (as indicated by swollen or deteriorated rubber cups) the following tests can be made.

(1) Place a small amount of the drained brake fluid into a small clear glass bottle. Separation of the fluid into distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content.

(2) Add water to the contents and shake. If the contents become milky, oil is present. If the contents remain clear, it is not contaminated with mineral oil.

NOTE: Be safe and discard old brake fluid that has been bled from the system. Fluid drained from the bleeding operation may contain dirt particles or other contamination and should not be reused.

Parking Brakes (Chrysler)

The rear wheel service brakes also act as parking brakes. The brake shoes are mechanically operated by a lever and strut connected to a flexible steel cable.

The wheel brake cables are joined together by a center cable which in turn is connected to a forward brake cable extending to the parking brake pedal and release handle.

Parking Brakes (imperial)

The parking brake pedal assembly used on Imperial Models only, is pedal applied but is released by a vacuum chamber. When the engine is started and vacuum is developed, energy is then available to release the parking brake. This is controlled by the transmission push buttons. When the transmission is in the neutral position the neutral button slide closes a valve mounted on the rear of the push button box, this stops the vacuum to the vacuum release chamber and there is no action of the parking brake pedal.

When one of the drive buttons (forward or reverse) is depressed, the neutral button and slide are released permitting the vacuum control valve to open and actuate the vacuum release chamber. In the event of engine failure and no vacuum, the brake may be released by a manual release lever mounted on the left side of the parking brake pedal assembly.

This assembly prevents the vehicle from being driven with the parking brake in the applied position.

1 3 .

Fig. 12—Parking Brake Cable Routing (Chrysler)

P A R K I N G BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

The service brakes must be properly adjusted before adjusting the parking brake. Refer to Paragraph

(1) Release the parking brake lever and loosen the cable adjusting nut to insure the cable is slack (Fig.

11 or 12).

(2) Tighten the cable adjusting nut until a slight drag is felt while rotating the wheel, loosen the cable adjusting nut until both rear wheels can be rotated freely, then back off the cable adjusting nut two full turns.

(3) Apply the parking brake several times, then release and test to see that the rear wheels rotate freely without dragging.

Fig. 11—Parking Brake Cable Routing (Imperial)

1 4 . P A R K I N G BRAKE CABLE (Rear)

Removal (Imperial)

The independent brake cables are attached td an equalizing cable by "C" type brackets, as shown in

Figure 11. The cable is adjusted at the spreader clamp at the center of the equalizing cable.

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BRAKES 5-11

Should it become necessary to remove the parking brake cable (rear), for installation of a new cable, refer to Figure 11.

(1) With the vehicle jacked up or on a suitable hoist, remove the rear wheels.

(2) Remove the brake drum from the rear axle.

(3) Remove the brake shoe return springs.

(4) Remove the brake shoe retaining springs.

(5) Remove the brake shoe strut and spring from the brake backing plate and disconnect the brake cable from the operating arm.

(6) Compress the retainers on the end of the brake cable housing and remove the cable from the brake plate (Fig. 9).

(7) Disconnect the brake cable from the "C" clamp.

(8) Remove the retaining clip from the brake cable bracket and remove the cable assembly.

Removal (Chrysler)

The independent brake cables are attached to an equalizer, as shown in Figure 12. The front cable is adjusted at the equalizer.

Should it become necessary to remove the parking brake cable (rear) for installation of a new cable, refer to Figure 12.

(1) With the vehicle jacked up or on a suitable hoist, remove the rear wheels.

(2) Remove the brake drum from the rear axle.

(3) Remove the brake shoe return springs.

(4) Remove the brake shoe retaining springs.

(5) Remove the brake shoe strut and spring from the brake backing plate and disconnect the brake cable from the operating arm.

(6) Compress the retainers on the end of the brake cable housing and remove the cable from the brake plate (Fig. 9).

(7) Remove the retaining clip from the brake cable bracket.

(8) Disconnect the brake cable from the equalizer.

Installation (Imperial)

NOTE: When installing a new brake cable, lubricate the cable with short fibre grease at the contact points.

(1) Insert the brake cable and the housing into the cable bracket and install the retaining cup.

(2) Insert the brake cable and housing into the brake support plate, making certain that the housing retainers lock the housing firmly into place.

(3) Holding the assembled brake shoes in place on the support plate, engage the brake cable into the brake shoe operating lever.

(4) Install the brake shoe retaining springs and the brake shoe return springs.

(5) Insert the front end of the brake cable into the

"C" clamp of the equalizer cable.

(6) Install the brake drum and the wheel.

(7) Adjust the service brakes and the parking brake cable.

Installation (Chrysler)

NOTE: When installing a new brake cable, lubricate the cable with short fibre grease at the contact points.

(1) Insert the brake cable and the housing into the cable bracket and install the retaining clip.

(2) Insert the brake cable and housing into the brake support plate making certain that the housing retainers lock the housing firmly into place.

(3) Holding the brake shoes in place on the support plate, engage the brake cable into the brake shoe operating lever.

(4) Install the brake shoe retaining springs, and the brake shoe return springs.

(5) Insert the front of the brake cable into the equalizer.

(6) Install the brake drum and the wheel.

(7) Adjust the service brakes and the parking brake cable.

1 5 .

P A R K I N G BRAKE CABLE (Front)

Removal (Imperial)

(1) Disengage the front cable from the equalizer and using a screw driver force the cable housing and retaining clip out of the frame crossmember.

(2) Disengage the cable housing from the mounting bracket at the transmission.

(3) Raise the floor mat or carpet and remove the rubber grommet holding the cable housing into the floor pan.

(4) Depress the parking brake pedal and disengage the parking brake cable from the clevis (Fig. 13).

(5) Using a screwdriver pry the housing out of the mounting bracket and retaining clip.

(6) Pull the parking brake cable and housing up out of the floor pan.

Removal (Chrysler)

(1) Disengage the front parking brake cable from the equalizer bar.

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BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH

63x597

BRAKES 5-13

(2) Install the cable housing into the transmission mounting bracket.

(3) Insert the knob end of the cable into the parking brake clevis and force the housing and retaining clip into the pedal bracket assembly.

(4) Insert the cable through the crossmember and force the housing and retaining clip into the crossmember.

(5) Attach the cable to the equalizer and adjust the parking brake cable.

(6) Apply the brakes several times and test for free wheel rotation.

(7) Test the operation of the vacuum release valve

(Fig. 15).

Fig. 15—Vacuum Brake Release Valve

(2) Disengage the cable and housing from the guide clip.

(3) Using a screw driver force the cable housing and attaching clip out of the body crossmember.

(4) Fold back the left front edge of the floor mat and remove the rubber cable cover from the floor pan.

(5) Depress the parking brake pedal and work the brake cable up and out of the brake pedal linkage

(Fig. 14).

(6) Using a screw driver force the upper end of the cable housing and clip down out of the pedal assembly bracket.

(7) Remove the cable to the floor pan clip and work the cable and housing assembly up through the floor pan. installation tImperial}

(1) Insert the parking brake cable down through the floor pan.

Installation (Chrysler)

(1) Insert the rear end of the brake cable and housing down through the cable routing hole in the floor pan.

(2) Engage the upper end of the cable and housing assembly up through the pedal assembly bracket and firmly attach the housing and clip into the bracket.

(3) Depress the parking brake pedal and insert the end of the cable into the parking brake pedal clevis.

(4) Insert the cable through the body crossmember and firmly press into place the housing and attaching clip.

(5) Attach the front cable to the equalizer bar.

(6) Adjust the service brakes and parking brake cable.

(7) Apply the brakes several times and test for free wheel rotation when the parking brake is in the

"off" position.

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5-14 DIAPHRAGM BOOSTER BRAKE

BENDIX SINGLE DIAPHRAGM BOOSTER BRAKE

The Bendix single diaphragm booster brake is of the vacuum suspended type and does not require a reserve vacuum tank. This booster utilizes engine manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its power. It is composed of three basic elements to compose a single power unit. The thiee units are:

(1) A vacuum power section which is composed of a front and rear housing, a power diaphragm, a return spring and a push rod (Fig. 16).

(2) A control valve built integral with the power diaphragm and connected through a valve rod to the brake pedal and controls the degree of brake application or release in accordance with the pressure applied to the brake pedal.

(3) A master cylinder attached to the vacuum power section contains all the conventional elements except the push rod which is a part of the brake booster.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1 6 . BOOSTER BRAKE

Removal

(1) From within the engine compartment disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder.

(2) Remove the vacuum hose from the booster.

(3) From under the instrument panel, remove the brake pedal and push rod attaching bolt and nut.

(4) Remove the four booster-to-dash attaching nuts and remove the booster assembly from the vehicle.

(5) Place the booster assembly on a clean service bench for disassembly.

Disassembly

(1) Remove the four master cylinder attaching nuts and remove the master cylinder from the booster.

(2) Remove the dust boot from the back of the booster housing.

(3) Pry off the retaining ring on the back of the booster and remove the air filter and silencers (Fig.

17).

(4) Place the booster assembly in a vise, scribe the front and rear shells for indexing location, then remove the eight front to rear housing screws.

CAUTION: The diaphragm is spring loaded anc* care should be taken to prevent the front and real shells from flying apart.

(5) Holding the two shells together, remove the booster from the vise and carefully separate the two shells.

(6) Remove the return spring.

(7) Remove the master cylinder push rod retainer

(Fig. 18).

BRAKE BOOSTER

Fig. 16

—

Power Brake and Master Cylinder Fig. 17—Air Filters and Silencers

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DIAPHRAGM BOOSTER BRAKE 5-15

PUSH ROD

MASTER

CYLINDER

PUSH ROD

, K E Y -

Fig.

20-—Removing Push Rod Lock

63x589

63x587

Fig. IS — Removing Push Rod Retainer

(8) Remove the diaphragm and valve assembly from the rear shell.

(9) Place the diaphragm and valve housing face down and stretch the rubber diaphragm out and over the hub of the valve body (Fig. 19).

(10) Holding the valve housing in a vertical position, press in on the push rod and permit the lock to disengage from the push rod and the valve assembly (Fig. 20).

(11) Holding the diaphragm housing, remove the rod and valve assembly (Fig. 21). Remove the rubber valve poppet from the rod.

(12) Press out the reaction disc from the diaphragm plate (Fig. 22).

(13) Support the rear shell on two wooden blocks and drive out the rear seal (Fig. 23).

PLUNGER ASSEMBLY

63x590

Fig. 21'—Removing or Installing Rod and Valve

REACTION DISC

Fig. 19—"-Removing Rubber Diaphragm

63x588

^ ^ 6 3 x 5 9 1

Fig. 22—Removing or Installing Reaction Disc

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5 - 1 6 DIAPHRAGM BOOSTER BRAKE

(14) Using a thin screw driver, pry out the front seal retainer and remove the front seal (Fig. 24).

(15) Thoroughly clean all parts with mineral spirits or alcohol. Recondition or replace as necessary.

Inspection

Fig. 23

—

Removing Rear Sea!

Inspect all parts for excessive wear. Replace any damaged or worn parts. Inspect the master cylinder bore for scoring, rust, pitting or etching. Recondition or replace as necessary.

Assembly

(1) Press a new seal into the rear housing until the seal is flush with the housing.

(2) Install the front seal and retainer.

(3) Install the reaction disc into the diaphragm plate.

(4) Install the valve poppet and the rod and valve assembly.

(5) With the valve housing supported on a flat horizontal surface, press down on the plunger rod and insert the lock into the housing and valve assembly.

(6) Dip the diaphragm in mineral spirits and install it on the plate and valve body.

(7) Install the diaphragm and valve body into the rear housing (Fig. 21).

(8) Install the master cylinder push rod and retainer.

(9) Supporting the rear housing on blocks or a vise, install the return spring with the small end toward the front of the booster assembly.

(10) Place the front housing on the return spring and compress the spring (guiding the master cylinder push rod through the front seal).

(11) Align the scribe marks and install the housing attaching screws finger tight and then progressively tighten.

(12) Install the air filter, silencer and retaining ring.

(13) Install the master cylinder on the brake booster assembly and tighten the attaching nuts.

Installation

(1) Insert the booster push rod through the mounting hole of the dash panel and attach the booster assembly. Tighten attaching nuts.

(2) Install the dust boot over the plunger and insert the spacer washer between the plunger and the brake pedal.

(3) Install the plunger and pedal attaching bolt and nut.

(4) install the vacuum hose to the booster assembly.

(5) Attach the brake line to the master cylinder.

(6) Fill the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic system.

(7) Start the engine and test the booster for operation.

Fig. 24— Removing Front Seal and Retainer

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POWER BOOSTER BRAKE 5-17

MIDLAND ROSS POWER BOOSTER BRAKE

The Midland Ross power booster brake (Fig.

25) is located on the engine side of the dash panel. The forward portion of the vacuum cylinder is die-cast and supports the master cylinder. The power booster derives its power from the intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure. It does not require a vacuum reservoir.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1 7 . BOOSTER B R A K E

Removal

(1) With the engine turned off, apply the brakes several times to balance the internal pressure of the biake booster.

(2) Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from the master cylinder.

(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum booster.

(4) From under the dash, remove the nut and attaching bolt from the plunger and brake pedal linkage.

(5) Remove the four booster attaching nuts and washers.

(6) Remove the booster and master cylinder from the vehicle.

(5) Remove the filter cover and filter.

(6) Working from the front of the unit, push the outer lip of the bellows assembly into the vacuum chamber (Fig.

26).

(7) Remove the clamp band securing the front to the front to the rear housing.

BELLOWS

FRONT

COVER

Disassembly

(1) Remove the four master cylinder attaching nuts and remove the master cylinder.

(2) Scribe an aligning mark across the joint of the front and rear portions of the booster assembly. This will insure correct alignment during reassembly.

(3) Remove the dust boot from the operating rod.

(4) Remove the two filter cover retaining screws.

CLAMP BAND CHECK VALVE AND VACUUM

HOSE CONNECTOR

Fig.

26 —Unseating the Bellows Seal urns

TRUARC RING

REAR COVER

REAR SEAL

RETAINER

MASTER CYLINDER

BRAKE BOOSTER ~~ 64x287

Fig. 25 — Power Brake and Master Cylinder Fig. 27-—Rear Seal Retainer

6 3 x 1 A

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5-18 POWER BOOSTER BRAKE

BELLOWS

SNAP'

RING

63X347

DIAPHRAGM BELLOWS

RETAINER

Fig. 28—Removing Bellows Retainer

(8) Using a plastic or rubber hammer tap the outside edge of the rear vacuum housing and separate the housings.

(9) Remove the large snap ring from the rear seal retainer (Fig. 27), and remove the diaphragm, valve housing assembly and rear seal from the rear housing.

(10) Using a screw driver pry out the large retaining snap ring that retains the bellows to the diaphragm (Fig. 28).

(11) Pull the bellows out of theretainer and remove the retaining ring from the bellows.

(12) Slide the master cylinder push rod off of the plunger (Fig. 29).

(13) Remove the reaction lever and retainer assembly from the valve body and remove the levers from the retainer (Fig. 30).

(14) Remove the two plastic rings from the plunger shaft.

(15) Remove the retaining clip (Fig. 31) from the plunger shaft, remove the load ring and valve return spring. Remove the valve (Fig. 32).

CUSHION RING

PUSH ROD

RETAINER V A L V E

63X348 LEVERS (12)

BODY

Fig. 30—Valve Body and Reaction Levers

(16) Remove the plunger from the valve body. er.

(17) Remove the rear seal retainer from the plung-

NOTE: The plunger assembly will be serviced as a unit and need not be dismantled further.

(18) Using a small screw driver remove the rear seal from the rear seal retainer. Remove the "0" ring from the outer diameter of the seal retainer

(Fig.

33).

LOAD RING y \1

-m- >mc7'< s

&Q&< .4J63x599A

Fig. 31 "—Removing Vesive Retainer

RETAINING

RING

ADJUSTMENT

SCREW

REACTION CONE

Fig. 29

—

Master Cylinder Push Rod

63x2

VALVE SEAT

Fig. 32—'Removing or Installing Valve

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POWER BOOSTER BRAKE 5-19

UP SEAL O-RINGS

PUSH ROD ASSEMBLY 64x289

Fig.

34 —Valve Plunger Assembly

Fig, 33 —Removing Rear Seal Assembly

(19) Remove the two "0" rings, seal and cushion ring from the valve plunger (Fig. 34).

(20) Remove the "0" ring from the outside diameter of the valve body.

Assembly

Wash all rubber seals in mineral spirits and air dry, relubricate with silicone grease.

(1) Install the "0" ring on the outside diameter of the valve body.

(2) Install the two "0" rings, and seal on the plunger assembly (Fig. 34).

(3) Install the cushion ring on the plunger assembly.

(4) Install the rear seal into the rear seal retainer with the lip of the seal toward the small end of the retainer.

(5) Install the "0" ring on the outside diameter of the rear seal retainer.

(6) Insert the rear seal retainer assembly into the hub of the rear cover.

(7) Holding the seal retainer in place invert the cover over a large socket to support the seal retainer in place.

(8) Apply downward pressure on the rear cover and install the retainer ring (Fig. 27).

(9) Install the plunger assembly into the valve body.

(10) Install the valve into the valve body with the rubber insert contacting the valve seat. Install the valve return spring over the valve.

(11) Install the load ring onto the plunger with the concave face out.

(12) Press downward on the valve body and insert the spring clip into the groove of the plunger.

(13) Install the levers and fulcrum ring into the rubber retainer.

(14) Align the indexing tab with the notch in the valve body and insert the assembly into the valve body with the fulcrum ring on the underside.

(15) Install the two plastic rings onto the plunger shaft.

(16) Install the master cylinder push rod onto the plunger assembly.

(17) Install the bellows into the bellows retainer and install the retaining ring onto the bellows.

(18) Place the valve body assembly into the detents of the diaphragm and install the bellows and retainer assembly.

(19) Install the bellows retainer snap ring.

(20) Install the diaphragm and valve assembly into the rear cover.

(21) Align the scribe marks and place the front cover over the bellows and master cylinder push rod.

(22) Align and squeeze the two housings together, install the clamp band and tighten the clamp bolt.

(23) Pull the lip of the bellows up through the front housing.

(24) Clean the filter and the plastic breather.

(25) Install the retaining plate and the attaching screws.

(26) Make sure the master cylinder piston stop and screw are installed in the upper hole on the master cylinder mounting face. Install the master cylinder on the booster, install the four nuts and tighten to 100 inch-pounds torque.

(27) Install the booster assembly into the dash and tighten the attaching nuts.

(28) Connect the brake line and the vacuum hose.

(29) Refill the master cylinder and bleed the braises as necessary.

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CENTER PLATE

Fig.

35— Vacuum B o o s t e r B r a k e

62x423

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BENDIX BOOSTER BRAKE 5-21

BENDIX BOOSTER BRAKE (IMPERIAL ONLY)

The tandem diaphragm tyfe brake booster is a self contained vacuum hydraulil power braking unit. It is of the vacuum suspended type which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum § M atmospheric pressure for its power. This type Of unit does not require a vacuum reservoir. The basic elements of the vacuum unit are as follows.

(a) The vacuum power chamber consists of a front and rear shell, a center plate, front and rear diaphragm, hydraulic push-rod and a vacuum diaphragm return spring (Fig.

35).

(b) A mechanically actuated control valve integral with the vacuum power diaphragms, controls the degree of power brake application or release in accordance with the foot pressure applied to the valve operating rod through the brake pedal linkage.

The control valve is of a single poppet type valve with an atmospheric port and a vacuum port. The vacuum port seat is a part of the valve body attached to the diaphragm assembly. The atmospheric port is a part of the valve plunger which moves within the valve housing and vacuum power diaphragm assembly.

(c) A hydraulic master cylinder which contains all of the elements of the standard brake master cylinder except for the special hydraulic push rod which is a part of the brake booster.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the hydraulic push rod.

SfftVlCE PROCEDURES

1 8 . BRAKE BOOSTER

Removal

(1) Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum line from the check valve.

(3) From under the instrument panel, remove the push rod nut and bolt from the brake booster and brake pedal.

(4) From under the instrument panel remove the four brake booster attaching nuts and washers.

(5) Withdraw the brake booster and master cylinder assembly from the booster support bracket.

(6) Remove the four master cylinder attaching nuts and washers and remove the master cylinder from the brake booster.

CAUTION: Do ftot attempt to disassemble the brake booster as this unit will be serviced by the

Manufacturer's Service Station.

Installation er.

(1) Install the master cylinder on the brake boost-

(2) Insert the brake booster push rod through the brake support and install the four attaching washers and nuts.

(3) Install the push rod attaching bolt and nut through the push rod and brake pedal.

(4) Attach the vacuum hose to the check valve.

(5) Attach the brake line to the master cylinder.

(6) Fill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

(7) Inspect the adjustment of the stop light switch.

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5-22 REMOTE POWER BRAKE

REMOTE POWER BRAKE (FIREPOWER 3 9 0 )

The remote power brake system for the FirePower

390 Models consist of a control valve, a vacuum suspended booster and a slave cylinder assembly, mounted on brackets under the left front fender, just back of the headlamp housing (Fig. 36).

It breathes through an air filter assembly mounted inside of the left front fender side shield just under the battery tray. A strap integral with the filter housing serves as a mounting bracket (Fig. 37).

All in-line check valve is used in the vacuum line.

The residual pressure check valve is contained in the slave cylinder assembly, rather than being located in the master cylinder as it is in the other brake systems.

CAUTION: When servicing the master cylinder, do not install a residual check valve or the booster will not permit the brakes to release fully.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1 9 .

REMOTE POWER

BRAKE

Removal

(1) Remove the hose clamps that secure the air hose and vacuum hose to the control valve housing and to the booster.

(2) Disconnect the master cylinder line and wheel cylinder line at the tubing connectors on the slave cylinder housing.

(3) Remove the two retaining screws that secure the slave cylinder housing to the mounting bracket, and remove the power brake assembly from the vehicle.

(4) Remove the filter retaining nut and bolt and remove the filter assembly from the inner side of the fender side shield.

Disassembly

(1) Disconnect the by-pass tube from the connector on the side of the control valve housing. Pull the by pass tube rearward and out of the rubber grommet in the rear housing.

(2) Scribe a reference line on the two housings of the booster and on the clamping band, and remove the

SCREEN

CLIP

$%0& 63x19

Fig. 37—Air Filter Assembly

Fig.

36— Remote Control Booster Assembly

FRONT

HOUSING 63x20

Fig.

—

Remote Control Booster (Disassembled)

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REMOTE POWER BRAKE

5-23

CONTROL

, VALVE

COVER

POPPET

Fig. 41*

—

Control Valve Poppet

Fig.

W —Piston, Hod and Return Spring nut and bolt from the clamping band. Remove the clamping band and the front housing.

(3) Pull outward on the diaphragm to remove the power piston assembly (diaphragm, push rod, and diaphragm return spring) (Fig. 38). Bend back the three tabs on the diaphragm plate to disengage the diaphragm return spring. Remove the lock nut from the end of the push rod and pull the push rod out of the diaphragm hub (Fig. 39).

(4) Scribe reference marks on the langes of the control valve cover and slave cylinder housing. Remove the large snap ring and breather cap assembly from the control valve cover (Fig.

40).

Remove four cap screws and lock washers that secure the control valve cover to the slave cylinder housing, and separate the two housings. The air check valve assembly consists of a metal poppet, a spring, and an "0" ring which seats in a counter bore in the control valve housing. Compress the air check valve spring and, using a thin screw driver remove and discard the small "0" ring from the check valve poppet (Fig. 41).

Remove the poppet and spring.

(5) The control valve assembly consists of a piston assembly, a rubber diaphragm, a diaphragm plate and a Tinnerman nut (Fig. 42). The piston assembly consists of a spool section with two Hp seals, and a flange section with a seal in a counterbore in the hub of the flange. The spool section and flange section are serviced as an assembly. Grasp the hub of the control valve piston and, with a rotating motion, pull the control valve assembly out of its seat in the slave cylinder housing. Pry up the corners of the

Tinnerman nut to disengage them from the piston hub and remove the Tinnerman nut, diaphragm plate and diaphragm from the piston assembly. Remove the rubber seal from the counterbore in the hub of the piston assembly. Remove and discard the outermost lip seal on the spool section of the piston. The other lip seal on the spool section is serviced in assembly with the piston. (It cannot be installed after the spool

Fig.

40— Removing Snap Ring

DIAPHRAGM

PLATE

DIAPHRAGM

PISTON 63x24

Fig. 42—Control Valve Assembly

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5-24 REMOTE POWER BRAKE

SEAL

O-RING

LIP

SEAL SNAP

RING

6

SPRING

RETAINER

Fig* 44—Housing and Piston Guide

SNAP

RING

6 3 x 2 7

FLAT

WASHER

6 3 x 2 5

Fig. 43—Slave Cylinder (Disassembled) and flange sections are pressed together without overstretching the rubber.)

(6) Using a 1%

" socket unscrew the end cap from the front end of the slave cylinder housing. Remove and discard the copper washer that serves as a seal between the end cap nut and the slave cylinder housing. Remove and discard the rubber washer inside the end cap. This washer serves as a seat for the residual check valve. Remove the piston return spring and residual check valve from the slave cylinder bore and discard the check valve (Fig. 43).

(7) Using a standard 1%

" socket, unscrew the push rod guide bushing from the slave cylinder housing and remove the front shell, a thick spacer washer and a lock washer. Remove and discard the "0" ring from the rolled tube that protrudes from the back of the control valve housing, and the gasket that seals between the control valve housing and the front shell of the booster. Remove and discard the "0" ring from a groove around the front end of the guide bushing (Fig. 44). Remove the Truarc snap ring, flat washer and lip seal from the counterbore in the front end of the guide bushing. Discard the seal. Re-

Fig. 45—Piston Guide Nut Assembly (Disassembled) move the Truarc snap ring and lip seal from the counter bore in the rear end of the guide, bushing. Discard the seal. Insert a slender screw driver forward through the slave cylinder bore and push the slave cylinder piston assembly, cup, and spring retainer out through the front of the bore. Discard the cup.

(8) The slave piston assembly is serviced as an assembly. Within the piston body there is a loose fitting plug, a plug return spring, and a snap ring, ft may be disassembled for cleaning and inspection by removing the snap ring. The plug has a rubber disc inserted in its inner face which, when the brakes are applied, blocks off the orifice that leads to the slave cylinder chamber. Remove the two bleeder screws from the side of the slave cylinder housing to facilitate cleaning. Disassemble the air cleaner by removing the retaining clip, screen and hair pad (Fig. 37).

Cleaning and Inspection

Wash all internal metal parts that come in contact with brake fluid in alcohol. Wipe thoroughly with clean cloths. Use compressed air to dry all internal passages. Discard all rubber parts and gaskets, including the large copper washer that seals between the end cap and the slave cylinder housing. Clean the air filter pad in mineral spirits and air dry.

Examine the control valve piston bore and slave cylinder bore for evidence of wear or corrosion. Replace the housing if necessary.

Test the check valve in the vacuum line and replace it if necessary.

Examine hoses, tubing and fittings for evidence of leaks, excessive wear or damage, and replace as required.

Reassembly

Push Rod Guide Bushing

(1) In the counterbore in the front (small) end of the bushing, install a new lip seal, with the lip out, and a Truarc snap ring. (Refer to Fig. 45.)

(2) Install the lock washer, the thick spacer washer and a new "0" ring on the outside of the bushing.

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BRAKE—DIAGNOSIS 5-25

(3) In the counterbore in the rear (large) end of the bushing install a new lip seal, with the lip in, the flat washer and the Truarc snap ring.

(4) Install a new rubber washer in the bore of the slave cylinder end cap and a new copper washer over the threaded end of the cap against the hex.

(5) Install the end cap assembly, tightening it securely. Install the tube elbow in the end cap, and the two bleeder screws in the slave cylinder housing.

(6) If the original control valve is to be used again, install a new lip seal in the outer groove of the piston spool.

Install a new control valve diaphragm over the hub of the piston flange, with the welt at the I.D. of the diaphragm next to the piston flange. Install the diaphragm plate and Tinnerman nut.

(7) Install a new seal in the counterbore in the hub of the piston flange.

(8) With a rotating motion install the control valve assembly in the control valve housing.

(9) Install the air check valve spring and poppet, with a new "O" ring on the poppet.

(10) Install the control valve cover on the housing, aligning the scribe marks and tighten the four retaining screws.

(11) Install the breather cap and retaining ring in the control valve cover.

(12) Install a new diaphragm assembly on the push rod and tighten the retaining lock nut.

(13) Engage the large end loop of the return spring under the three clips on the diaphragm plate and bend the tabs down to secure the spring.

(14) Install a new by-pass tube grommet in the rear shell and position the diaphragm and push rod assembly in the rear shell.

(15) Insert the free end of the push rod in the guide bushing bore atid, with a rotating motion, slide it in until the end of the push rod bottoms against the slave cylinder piston plug and the small end coil of the return spring seats around the hub of the guide bushing.

Continue closing the two shells aligning the scribe marks and making sure that the welt on the outside diameter of the diaphragm seats evenly between the grooved flanges of the shells. Install the clamp band.

Tighten the clamp band bolt.

(16) Insert the unthreaded end of the by-pass tube through the grommet in the rear shell and connect the threaded end to the fitting on the control valve cover.

(17) Install the filter pad. wire screen and retaining clip in the filter housing.

Installation

(1) Position the power brake assembly on the mounting bracket and install the two retaining screws with a flat washer next to the bracket and then a lock washer.

2) Connect the air hose to the breather cap and the vacuum hose to the booster exhaust.

(3) Connect the tube from the wheel cylinders to the fitting in the slave cylinder end cap.

(4) Connect the tube from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Bleed the brakes.

(5) Refill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes as necessary.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

P A R K I N G B R A K E

Condition Possible C a u s e C o r r e c t i o n

Dragging Brake

i i r

(a) Improper cable or brake adjustment.

(b) Broken brake shoe return spring.

(c) Broken brake shoe retainer spring.

(d) Grease or brake fluid soaked lining.

(e) Sticking or frozen brake cable.

(f) Broken rear spring.

(g) Bent or rusted cable equalizer.

(a) Properly adjust the service brakes then adjust the parking brake cable.

(b) Replace any broken return spring.

(c) Replace the broken retainer

, spring.

(d) Replace the grease seal or recondition the wheel cylinders and replace both brake shoes.

(e) Clean and lubricate the cables.

<f) Replace the broken rear spring,

(g) Replace or clean and lubricate the equalizer.

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5-26 BRAKE—DIAGNOSIS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SERVICE BRAKE

Possible Cause Condition Correction

Brake Will Not Hold

Pedal Goes to the Floor

Spongy Brake Pedal

(a) Broken or rusted brake cable.

(b)

Improperly adjusted brake or cable.

(d)

Ratchet or pedal mechanism worn.

(a) Fluid low i n master cylinder.

(b)

(d)

(f)

(g)

Excessively worn brake lining.

Leaking wheel cylinders.

(e) Loose or broken brake lines.

Air in hydraulic brake system.

Leaking or worn master cylinder.

(a) Replace or clean and lubricate t t e brake cable.

0>) Adjust brakes and cable as

'(c) necessary.

Replace the brake lining.

(d) Replace all worn parts.

(a) Fill and bleed the master cylinder.

(b) Reline and adjust the brakes.

(d) Recondition or replace the wheel cylinder and replace both brake shoes.

(e) Tighten all brake fittings or replace the brake line.

(f) Fill and bleed the hydraulic brake system.

(g) Recondition or replace the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic system.

(a)

(b)

Air in hydraulic system. (a) Fill the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic system.

Improper brake l u i d (low boiling point). (b) Drain/flush and refill with MoPar brake fluid.

Brakes Pulling

Squealing Brakes

(a)

(b)

Uneven tire pressure.

Incorrect brake adjustment.

(d) Brake shoes distorted.

(e) Grease or brake l u i d soaked lining.

(f)

(g)

Unmatched brake lining.

Restricted brake hose or line.

(h) Front end out of alignment.

(i) Broken rear spring.

(a) Inflate all tires evenly.

(b) Adjust the brakes and check the fluid.

(d) Replace the faulty brake shoes.

(e) Replace grease seals or recondition the wheel cylinders as necessary and replace the contaminated brake shoes.

(f) Match the primary, secondary and same type if lining on all wheels.

(g) Replace the plugged hose or brake line.

(h) Align the front end.

(i) Replace the broken spring.

(a)

(b)

(c)

Incorrect brake lining. (a) Install matched brake lining.

Dust in brakes or scored brake drums. (b) Blow out the brake assembly with compressed air and grind the brake drums

Distorted brake shoes. (c) Replace the brake shoes.

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Condition

Squealing Brakes

(Continued)

Dragging Brakes

H a r d Pedal

Wheel Looks

BRAKE—DIAGNOSIS 5-27

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

SERVICE B R A K E S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause Correction

(d) Bent support plate.

(e) Broken or weak brake shoe return spring.

(f) Weak or broken brake shoe retaining spring.

(g) Glazed brake lining.

(h) Saturated brake lining.

(a) Incorrect brake adjustment.

(b) Parking brakes engaged.

(c) Wheel cylinder sticking.

(d) Weak or broken brake shoe return spring.

(e) Brake pedal binding.

(f) Master cylinder cup sticking.

(g) Incorrect master cylinder push rod adjustment.

(h) Obstructed master cylinder relief port.

(i) Saturated brake lining.

(j) Bent or out of round brake drum.

(a) Incorrect brake lining.

(b) Incorrect brake adjustment.

(c) Frozen brake pedal linkage.

(d) Restricted brake line or hose.

(e) Brake booster inoperative.

(a) Loose or torn brake lining.

(b) Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment.

(c) Wheel cylinder cups sticking.

(d) Saturated brake lining.

(d) Replace the support plate.

(e) Replace the return spring.

(f) Replace the retaining spring.

(g) Cam grind or replace the brake lining.

(h) Replace grease seals or recondition the wheel cylinders as necessary and replace the saturated brake shoes.

(a) Adjust the brakes and add brake fluid to master cylinder.

(b) Release the parking brakes.

(c) Recondition the wheel cylinder.

(d) Replace the brake shoe return spring.

(e) Free up and lubricate the brake pedal and linkage.

(f) Recondition the master cylinder.

(g) Properly adjust the master cylinder push rod.

(h) Use compressed air and blow out the relief port.

(i) Replace grease seals or recondition the wheel cylinders as necessary and replace the brake shoes.

(j) Grind or replace the faulty brake drum.

(a) Install matched brake lining.

(b) Adjust the brakes and check the fluid.

(c) Free up and lubricate the brake linkage.

(d) Clean out or replace the brake line or hose.

(e) Recondition or replace the brake booster.

(a) Replace the brake lining.

(b) Clean, pack and adjust the wheel bearings.

(c) Recondition or replace the wheel cylinder.

(d) Replace grease seals or recondition the wheel cylinders as necessary and replace brake shoes as necessary.

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5-28 BRAKE—DIAGNOSIS

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

SERVICE B R A K E S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause

Condition

Brakes Fade

(High Speed)

Pedal Pulsates

Brake Chatter

Brakes Do Not Self

Adjust

Correction

( a )

Improper brake adjustment. (a) Adjust the brakes and ehecit the fluid.

(b) Distorted or out of round brake drums. (b) Grind or replace the drums.

( c )

Overheated brake drums. (c) Inspect fof dragging brakes.

(d) Incorrect brake fluid (low boiling temperature).

(d) Drain, refill and bteed the hydraulic brake system.

(e) Saturated brake lining. (e) Replace ffeaie seals or recondition the wheel cylinders as necessary and replace brake shoes as necessary.

( a )

Bent or out of round brake drum. (a) Grind or replace the brake drums.

( a )

Rough or scored brake drum. (a) Grind or replace the brake drum.

(b) Loose support plate. (b) Tighten the support plate bolti

•(c) Bent support plate. to the proper torque.

(c) Replace the support plate.

(d) Replace the brake shoes. (d) Distorted brake shoes.

.(e) Machine grooves in the contact face of (e) Grind or replace the brake drum. the brake drum.

(f) Saturated brake lining. (f)

Replace grease seals or recondition the wheel cylinders as necessary and replace brake shoes as necessary.

( a )

Adjuster screw frozen in the thread. (a) Clean and free-up all thread areas.

(b) Adjuster screw corroded at the thrust (b) Clean the threads and replace the washer. thrust washer if necessary.

(c) Adjuster lever does not engage star wheel.

(c) Repair, free up or replace adjuster as required.

POWER BRAKES

To determine whether the power unit is functioning, shut off the engine and apply the brakes several times to exhaust the vacuum from the system. Then lightly apply the brakes and start the engine. If the power unit is operating, the brake pedal will move forward slightly and less pedal pressure will be needed to apply the brakes.

If no vacuum is felt, inspect the vacuum line for kinks or disconnection. A method of testing for an internal leak in the power unit is to apply the brakes, then hold the brakes on and stop the engine. After approximately one minute there should be enough vacuum left to give power assist for several applications.

Dragging Brakes

(AH Wheels)

( a )

Brake shoes improperly adjusted.

(b) Brake pedal linkage binding.

(c) Excessive hydraulic seal friction.

(d) Compensator port plugged.

(e) Sticking valve plunger.

(f) Improper booster push rod length adjustment.

(a) Adjust the brakes.

'(b) Free up the linkage.

(c) Lubricate the seal.

(d) Clean out the master cylinder.

Refill with Mopar brake fluid.

(e) Free up and lubricate the v^lve plunger.

'(f) Adjust the push rod.

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Condition

BRAKE—DIAGNOSIS 5-2?

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

P O W E R B R A K E S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause Correction

(g) Fluid cannot return to master cylinder. (g) Inspect the pedal return and pus rod adjustment.

(h) Parking brake not returning.

(i) Improperly staked valve sleeve.

(h) Free up as required.

(i)

Replace valve assembly.

Grabbing Brakes (a) Grease or brake fluid on linings.

(b) Sticking actuating valve.

(a) Replace the brake shoe as necessary.

(b) Free up the valve.

Pedal Goes to Floor

(or almost to floor)

( a )

Self-adjusters not operating.

(b) Air in hydraulic system.

( c )

Hydraulic leak.

(d) Fluid low in master cylinder.

(e) Shoe hanging up on rough platform.

(f) Broken plunger stem.

(a) Inspect the self-adjuster operations.

(b) Bleed the brakes.

(c) Locate and correct the leak.

(d) Add brake fluid and bleed the brakes as necessary.

(e) Smooth and lubricate the platforms.

(f) Replace valve plunger assembly.

Hard Pedal (Power

Unit Trouble)

( a )

Faulty vacuum check valve.

(b) Collapsed or leaking vacuum hose.

( c )

Plugged vacuum fittings.

(d) Leaking vacuum chamber.

(e) Diaphragm assembly out of place in housing.

(f) Vacuum leak in forward vacuum housing.

(g) Broken plunger stem.

(a) Replace the check valve.

(b) Replace the hose.

(c) Clean out the fittings.

(d) Locate and correct the leak.

(e) Position the diaphragm.

(f)

Locate and correct the leak.

(g) Replace the plunger stem.

Self-Application of

Brakes When Engine

Starts

( a )

Leak in rear housing. (a) Locate and correct the leak.

(b) Diaphragm out of location in housings (b) Position the diaphragm and allowing atmospheric pressure into

( c ) rear chamber.

Sticking or unseated actuating valve

(c) Free up and seat properly. assembly.

G r u n t i n g Noise i n

Booster on

Application

( a ) Air in hydraulic system.

(b) Lack of valve plunger lubrication.

( c )

Fluid low in master cylinder.

(a) Bleed the brakes.

.(b) Lubricate the plunger.

(c) Add brake fluid and bleed the brakes as necessary.

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CLUTCH 6 -1

GROUP 6

CLUTCH

CONTENTS

Page Pa§*

Specifications. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 Transmission Main Drive Pinion Pilot B u s h i n g . . . . . . . . . 5

Special Tools.

1 Clutch Release Bearing 6

Torque Reference 1 Torque Shaft and B e a r i n g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clutch Adjustment. 2 Clutch Housing Alignment. 6

Clutch Pedal Free Play 2 Clutch installation 7

Service Diagnosis 8

SPECIFICATIONS

CLUTCH

M a k e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . : . . . . Borg & Beck Borg & Beck Borg & Beck

Model 1506 1570 1579

Vehicle Model Application VC-1 VC-2 *VC-2 with optional

413 cu. in. engine

Engine Size. 361 cu. in. 383 cu. in. 413 cu. In.

Transmission Type. . . . . . . V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Standard 3-Speed or 4 Forward Speed Manual Transmission

CLUTCH DISC

Facing Type. Moulded Woven Asbestos

Outside Diameter. . 1 0

" lO'/a" 1 1"

Thickness. .125" .125" .125"

Disc Springs (number) . 10 10 10

Disc Spring Color. 5 Green 5 Tan 5 Green 5 Tan 5 Green 5 Tan

CLUTCH COVER

Pressure Springs (number) 9 12 12

Spring Color. . . 6 No Color 3 White 6 Orange 6 No Color 6 White 6 Orange

Spring Pressure (lbs.). 185 ea. 233 ea. 162 ea. 185 ea. 233 ea. 162 ea.

Total Spring Pressure

( I b s . @ l

/ 2 " ) 1920 2205 2490

Number of Levers 3 3 3

Height from Face of F l y w h e e l . . . . . . . . . . 2" 2" 2"

Lever Setting Gauge Number 20 20 19

Pedal Free Play (at clutch fork) Va"

*Used with 360 and 390 FirePower Engines.

SPECIAL T O O L S

C-41 Pilot Bushing Remover C-647. . . . . . . . . S p r i n g Testing Fixture

DD-286 Bushing Installer and Burnisher C - 8 6 0 . . . . . . . . Reamer

C-360 Aligning Arbor C-869. . . . . . . . Housing Aligning Gauge

C-585B Clutch Rebuilding Fixture C - 3 0 0 5 . . . . . . . . T o r q u e Wrench

T O R Q U E TIGHTENING

Foot-Pounds

Clutch Housing to Engine Bolts. .,. 30

Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts (%") (Used with 360 and 390 FirePower Engines). 30

Clutch Pan Bolts

. . . . . . . . . 100 Inch-Pounds

Clutch Fork Pivot B o l t s . . . . . . . . . . 15

Flywheel Bolt Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Transmission to Clutch Housing Bolts. 50

Torque Shaft Pivot (engine side) 40

Torque Shaft Pivot Bracket Bolts (frame side) 15

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6-2 CLUTCH

CLUTCH

The semi-centrifugal clutch combines the feature of low pedal effort with that of a clutch capable of transmitting the full torque of the engine.

Six cylindrical rollers, located in the pressure plate, are free to move outward under centrifugal force until they contact the cover, as shown in Figure 1.

As engine speed increases the rollers act as wedges between the cover and the pressure plate. The faster the clutch revolves, the greater the pressure on the plate. The greater pressure increases the normal load on the disc assembly.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1 . CLUTCH

ADJUSTMENT

( I n

The Vehicle)

3 . CLUTCH

The only adjustment required while the clutch is in the vehicle, is linkage adjustment to obtain the

(1) Remove the transmission. See "Manual Transcorrect amount of clutch pedal free play. The clutch mission" Group 21 for detailed procedure. pedal free play is the movement of the pedal re-

(2) Remove the clutch housihg pan and the dust quired to close the clearance between the throwout seal. bearing and the clutch fingers. The linkage adjustment is required to restore the pedal free play when

(3) Disconnect the release fork rod at the release fork. it has been reduced by the ^normal wear of the clutch

(Fig.

2). >

2 .

CLUTCH

PEDAL FREE PLAY

(5) Detach the release fork from its pivot and remove the fork, dust seal, sleeve and the bearing.

Shorten or lengthen the clutch release fork rod by turning the adjusting nut until there is %

inch free movement of the clutch fork outer end. This adjustment if correctly set, will give the necessary 1 (one) inch free play at the pedal.

Removal

(6) Mark the flywheel, the clutch cover and one pressure plate lug to maintain their same relative positions during reassembly and instaUation.

(7) Loosen and back off the attaching bolts a turn or two at a time in rotation to avoid bending the

PLATE

C O V E R

PRESSURE SPRING

ROLLER

RELEASE BEARING

SLEEVE

EYEBOLT NUTS

PIN

EYEBOLT

// \ \J \

RELEASE LEVER

^ S T R U T

RELEASE LEVER SPRING

Fig. 1—Semi-Centrifugal Clutch (Disassembled View)

6 0 x 7 0

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CLUTCH 6-3

SPRING

SEAL

BEARING—(2)

BRAKE ASSY.

DASH PANEL

NUT & L.W. ASSY. (2)

SPACER ASSY.

SHAFT

/ PAD

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSY.

N U T - ( 2 )

BOOT

PEDAL STOP L . W . - ( 2 )

SCREW—(2)

Fig. 2—Clutch Pedal Linkage (Disassembled View)

6 2 x 4 5 B flange of the cover. The disc facings should not be handled or placed in contact with grease, oil or dirt.

Cover Disassembly

(1) Place the cover assembly on the adjusting fixture, Tool C-585A.

(2) Place the three-legged spider over the center screw, so that the legs are located midway between the staked nuts. Install the thrust washer and compression nut. Tighten the nut until the cover contacts the base of the fixture (Fig. 3).

(3) Remove the three eye-bolt nuts, then remove the compression nut, washer and spider.

(4) Remove the clutch cover, the springs and the rollers.

(5) To remove the levers (Fig. 4), grasp the eyebolt

CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE

CLUTCH COVER

45x452

Fig. 3—Clutch Cover and Pressure Plate Assy, in Fixture ^

Fig. 4—Removing Release Lever

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6-4 CLUTCH between the thumb and index finger to hold it up

I against the lever while the other fingers raise the lever up. With the other hand, lift the strut over the ridge on the end of lever. Lift the lever and eye bolt off the pressure plate and remove the strut.

C l e a n i n g , Inspection and Testing

(1) Use compressed air to clean the dust out of the clutch housing. Inspect for leakage through the engine rear main bearing <?il seal. If leaking, it should be corrected at this time. v (2) The back face of the flywheel should have a

:; uniform appearance throughout the entire clutch contact area. If there is evidence of heavy contact on one portion of the wear circle and a very light contact

180° from that portion, the flywheel may be improperly mounted or sprung. In such cases, a dial indicator, mounted on the clutch housing with the plunger in contact with the wear circle, should show no more than .003 inch runout throughout a complete rotation of the flywheel.

(3) The friction face of the flywheel should also be free from discolored, burned areas, small cracks and excessive grooves or ridges.

(4) The bushing in the end of the crankshaft should be smooth and show no excessive wear. A new transmission main drive pinion or bushing driver and burnisher, Tool C-3181, can be used to gauge the size of the bushing. The tool should have a snug fit in the bushing. See Paragraph 4 on "Pinion Pilot Bushing Replacement."

(5) The end of the transmission main drive pinion should be smooth and bright, without grooves and ridges.

(6) The disc assembly should be handled without touching the facings. Replace facings that show evidence of grease or oil soakage or that are worn to within less than y

inch of the rivet heads. The hub splines aiid the splines on the transmission main drive pinion should be a snug fit without signs of excessive wear. The metallic portions of the assembly should be dry and clean and should show no evidence of having been hot. Each of the arched springs between the facings should be unbroken and all rivets should be tight.

(7) Clean all parts of the pressure plate and cover assembly in kerosene, mineral spirits or other similar solvents.

(8) Using the clutch fixture, Tool C-585, as a surface plate, try the cover for flatness. All the sections around the attaching bolt holes should be in contact with the surface plate within .015 inch.

The coter should be a snug fit on the pressure plate lugs, in the marked location.

The pressure plate friction area should be flat within .005 inch and should be free from discolored burned areas, cracks, grooves or ridges.

(9) The eyebolts should be a snug but free fit in the pressure plate.

(10) The rollers and the lugs of the pressure plate should not show excessive wear. The three sections of each roller should be free on the pin and free to revolve independently.

(11) The inner ends of the release levers should have a uniform wear pattern. Levers which are rough or badly worn should be replaced.

(12) It is advisable to test the pressure springs when the clutch is dismantled after considerable service or if there has been a great amount of slippage creating excessive heat, which may have caused the springs to lose their initial load. To test a spring, first determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is

IV2

inches. Turn the table of Tool C-647 until the surface is in line with the

IV2 inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place the spring over the stud on the table and lift the compressing lever to the set tone device. Pull on torque wrench tool C-3005, as shown in Figure 5, until a ping is heard. Take reading on wrench at this instant. Multiply the reading by two.

This will give the spring load to the test length.

Pactional measurements are indicated on the table of finger adjustments. (Refer to Specifications and

Fig. 5—Testing Clutch Pressure Springs

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CLUTCH 6-5 select the model of the clutch for the spring pressure). Discard the springs that do not meet the minimum requirement.

C o v e r — A s s e m b l y and Adjustment

Whenever the clutch pedal is operated, a slight movement of the internal clutch parts must take place

Normally, any moving parts should be lubricated, but in lubricating a dry disc type clutch, a very minimum amount of lubricant must be used. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the disc moves on the splines of the transmission main drive pinion shaft.

The pressure plate also moves in the slots of the cover and on the eye bolts. The release levers contact the strut, the cross pin, the lever spring and the release bearing. When it is advisable to lubricate these parts, a thin film of wheel bearing grease should be applied only to the contact area of the part at the time of assembly.

(1) Assemble the eye bolt, cross pin and release lever. Hold the threaded end of the eye bolt between the thumb and index finger.

(2) With the other hand, hold the strut in the slot in the pressure plate lug (Fig. 4).

(3) Insert the eye bolt in the hole in the pressure plate and position the release lever under the strut so that the strut can be positioned in the groove in the lever.

(4) Install the other levers in the same manner.

(5) Place the pressure plate on the clutch fixture

Tool C-585A with the levers over the fixture feeler blades.

(6) On the #1506 Clutch, place the pressure springs on the pressure plate in the following order: Painted

(white) next to the release spring levers followed by two unpainted springs. There is no spring in the fourth cavity. On the No. 1570 and No. 1579 clutch, alternate the colored (or no color) springs evenly around the pressure cavities.

(7) Place the rollers in position on the pressure plate.

(8) Place the cover over the rollers and springs, with the aligning mark on the cover over the marked lug of the pressure plate.

(9) Install the three-legged spider over the center screw with the legs contacting the cover midway between the eye bolt holes.

(10) Install the thrust washer and compression nut.

While tightening the nut, guide the eye bolts through the cover and guide the cover over the pressure plate lugs, also make certain that the rollers are free to move in their slots. Tighten the compression nut nuts.

Fig.

pulled out.

6—

Adjusting Clutch Release Levers

45x453 until the cover contacts the base of the fixture.

(11) Apply the fixture clamps at each cover retainer bolt hole to hold the assembly to the fixture.

(12) Turn the eye bolt nuts down flush with the ends of the bolts. This is a temporary position.

(13) Remove the compression nut, washer and spider and push each lever down several times to be sure that the levers are seated properly.

(14) To adjust the release levers, install spacer

Tool C-585-19 on the fixture center screw, then lever compression plate Tool C-585-36, flat side down. Install the thrust washer and compression nut and tighten the nut (Fig. 6).

(15) Adjust the eye bolt nuts until the feeler blades have the same drag or feel while being pushed in or

(16) After all levers are adjusted, measure the drag of the feeler blades before staking the eye bolt and

(17) Remove the clutch from the fixture.

4 . T R A N S M I S S I O N M A I N DRIVE

P I N I O N PILOT B U S H I N G

See Paragraph 3 "Cleaning, Inspection and Testing," Step 4, for testing the size of the pilot bushing.

Removal

(1) Position the outer portion of Tool C-3181 in contact with the button on the end of the center screw.

(2) Thread the outer portion of the tool tightly into the bushing.

(3) Turn the center screw in through the outer portion to remove the bushing.

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6-6 CLUTCH

Installation

Soak a new bushing in engine oil prior to installation.

(1) Remove the nut and cup from installing and burnishing Tool C-3181.

(2) Place the new bushing oii the tool shaft and drive the bushing flush with the end of the crankshaft. Use a soft hammer to prevent damage to the tool.

(3) To remove the driver, install the cup and nut.

As the nut is tightened, the tool will burnish, the bushing.

(4) Insert

teaspoon of wheel bearing lubricant ahead of the bushing.

5 . CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING

The clutch release bearing is a prelubricated sealed thrust bearing. It should not be submerged in solvents. The bearing should turn freely, when held in the hands, with no evidence of roughness.

(1) To install the bearing on the sleeve, support the sleeve on the press bed.

(2) Align the bearing with the sleeve and hold the old bearing on the new one.

(3) Bring the ram into contact with the old bearing ahcl apply sufficient pressure to seat the new bearing on the shoulder on the sleeve. Rotate the bearing when installing.

6 . T O R Q U E SHAFT A N D BEARINGS

Removal

(1) Remove the spring clip and pedal rod from the torque shaft lever.

(2) Remove the clutch fork pull-back spring.

(3) Remove the spring clip and clutch release fork rod from the torque shaft lever.

(4) Remove the torque shaft support bracket attaching bolts.

(5) Pull the torque shaft away from the stud on the engine assembly and remove the two bearings.

* (6) Remove the retainer and bracket from the torque shaft and remove the two bearings. be smooth, without surface scratches or embedded foreign material. The wear pattern should be uniform over the entire surface.

Installation

(1) Fill the torque shaft with chassis lubricant and coat the bearings and ball studs with the same lubricant.

(2) Install the bearings on the bracket ball stud and force the bearings into the torque shaft far enough to install the retainer.

(3) Install the bearings on the engine assembly ball stud and force the torque shaft over the bearings.

(4) Position the torque shaft support bracket. Install the bolts and tighten securely.

(5) Connect the clutch release fork rod and the spring clip.

(6) Install the clutch fork pull-back spring.

(7) Connect the pedal rod and install the spring clip.

(8) Adjust the clutch pedal free play.

CLUTCH H O U S I N G A L I G N M E N T

When performing adjustments or repairs that involve removing the clutch housing, it will be necessary to align the face of the housing parallel with that of the cylinder block when assembling.

To correctly align the clutch housing, proceed as follows:

(1) Mount Tool C-870 with a dial indicator Tool

C-435 on the flywheel.

(2) With the flywheel turning Tool. .0-771, turn the flywheel while noting dial indicator needle deflection.

Out-of-round of bore must not exceed .008 maximum total indicator reading (See Fig. 7).

Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean all parts in kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvent. Remove all grease from the inside of the torque shaft.

(2) The two ball studs should be bright and without scratches, ridges or other surface imperfections.

(3) The inner surfaces of the bearings should also F i g .

7—Measuring C l u t c h H o u s i n g .

Bore

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CLUTCH 6-7

Fig.

9— Measuring Clutch Housing Alignment

Fig. 8— Offset Dowel Orientation Diagram

If the bore runout is in excess of .008 inch total indicator reading proceed with correction as follows:

To illustrate the recommended correction procedure, assume that the total indicator reading is .020 inch, in a direction which approximates 2 o'clock on engine block (Fig. 8).

In this case, the housing is off crankshaft centerline .010 inch (one-half total indicator reading which is .006 inch greater than the allowable limit of .004

(one -half total indicator reading).

In the case under consideration, use of the .007 inch offset dowels (pair) will bring the runout well within the allowable limits of .008 inch: or .008 inch minus .007

inch (offset dowels) equals .001 inch runout. Dowels must be used in pairs (same part number).

(3) To install the dowel pins (pair), remove the clutch housing after disconnecting and removing the starting motor.

Remove the dowel pins frpm the engine block. Select eccentric dowels (pair) which are available with the following amount of offset:

.007" (No. 1736347), .014" (No. 1736348), .021" (No.

1736353).

The amount of eccentricity of the dowel will produce a total indicator reading change of double the dowel eccentricity, therf fore, a pair of dowels with the nearest to Vz of the total indicator runout of the bore. For runout (total indicator reading) of .012" through .020", use a .007" dowel (P/N 1736347), .022" through ,034", use .014" dowel (P/N 1736348), and

.036" through .052", use .021" dowel (P/N 1736353).

(4) Install both dowels with the slots parallel and aligned in the direction to correct the bore runout.

(Slot indicates the direction of the maximum dowel eccentricity). Both dowels must be inserted into the engine block, up to the off-set shoulder.

(5) Install and tighten the clutch housing bolts to

50 foot-pounds torque. Remount the dial indicator and re-measure the bore runout. Small corrections can be made by removing the clutch housing (if necessary) and turning the dowels with a screw driver to shift the housing and bring the bore within limits.

Face Hnnonf

(1) Relocate the dial indicator, as shown in Figure

9. Rotate the flywheel, using Tool C-771. If the total indicator reading is greater than .003 note the amount of the total indicator reading and the location of the lowest indicator reading (i.e., the point where the indicator arm or follower is extended the furthest).

(2) To correct the excessive runout, place the proper thickness of shim stock between the clutch housing and the engine block or between the transmission and the clutch housing. After measuring the face runout, tighten the housing bolts to 50 footpounds torque. Install the clutch as follows:

8. CLUTCH

INSTALLATION

(1) Coat the clutch shaft pilot bushing (in the end of the crankshaft) with medium short fiber wheel bearing lubricant (about a half teaspoon). Place the lubricant in the radius at the back of the bushing.

(2) Clean the surface of the flywheel and the pressure plate thoroughly, making certain that all oil or lubricant has been removed.

(3) Hold the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover in mounting position, with the springs on the disc damper facing away from the flywheel.

Do not touch disc facing, as clutch chaffer niay result. Insert clutch disc aligning arbor Tool C^360 through hub of disc and into the pilot bushing, as shown in Figure 10.

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6-8

CLUTCH

ternately) until they are all tight. Tighten the bolts.

Refer to Specifications. Remove the Tool C-360 or pinion shaft if used.

(6) Inspect the clutch release bearing. If noisy, rough or dry, press off the old bearing and install a new one. Pack the recess in the sleeve (directly behind the bearing) with short fibre wheel lubricant.

Coat the fork contact surfaces on the sleeve and the pivot ball with short fibre wheel lubricant. Slide the bearing and sleeve up into position, engaging the springs on the sleeve with the fork.

BE SURE THE

SPRINGS HAVE LATERAL FREEDOM. When installing the transmission, DO NOT LUBRICATE THE

PILOT SHAFT OR THE CLUTCH SPLINES. This area must be kept dry.

Fig.

10— Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor

(If Tool C-360 is not available, use a spare transmission drive pinion clutch shaft.)

(4) Insert the clutch cover attaching bolts (after aligning balance punch marks) but do not draw down.

(5) To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, the bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time (al-

(7) Install the transmission by guiding into position with pilot studs Tool C-730. Care should be taken in order not to bend the clutch disc by allowing the transmission to hang. Support the transmission with a suitable jack, then slide into place and secure with attaching bolts.

(8) Adjust the clutch linkage. See Paragraph 1,

"Clutch Adjustment in the Vehicle".

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Condition Correction

C l u t c h Chatter

(a) Worn or damaged disc assembly.

(b) Grease or oil on disc facings.

(a) Replace the disc assembly.

(b) Replace the disc facing or disc assembly.

(c) Remove and recondition.

C l u t c h Slipping

C l u t c h Noisy

(c) Improperly adjusted cover assembly.

(a) Burned, worn, or oil soaked facings.

(b) Insufficient pedal free play.

(c) Weak or broken pressure springs.

Difficult Gear Shifting

(a) Excessive pedal free play.

(b) Worn or damaged disc assembly.

(c) Improperly adjusted cover assembly.

(d) Clutch disc splines sticking.

(a) Replace the facings or disc assembly.

(b) Adjust the release fork rod.

(c) Recondition the cover assembly.

(a) Adjust the release fork rod.

(b) Replace the disc assembly.

(c) Remove and recondition.

(d) Remove the disc assembly and free up splines or replace the disc.

(a) Dry clutch linkage.

(b) Worn release bearing.

(c) Worn disc assembly.

(a) Lubricate where necessary.

(b) Replace the release bearing.

(c) Replace the facings or disc assembly.

(d) Worn release levers. (d) Recondition the cover assembly.

(e) Worn or dry pilot bushing. (e) Lubricate or replace bushing.

(f) Dry contact-pressure plate lugs in cover. (f)

Lubricate very lightly.

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C O O U N G SYSTEM 7-J

GROUP 7

COOLING SYSTEM

CONTENTS

Page Page

Specifications ( C o o l i n g ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 Radiator Hoses . 6

Special Tools 2

Torque Reference 2

Water Punrip..... . . . . . . . 3

Radiator.". . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Proper Belt Tension (Accessory Belt Drives).. . . . . ; . . . 8

Torque Method . 8

Reverse Flushing the Cooling S y s t e m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . 6

Service Diagnosis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

SPECIFICATIONS

Model VC-1, VC-2, VC-3 VY-1

Capacity

With Heater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 qts.

Without Heater. 16 qts.

Radiator Type . Tube & Spacer

Transmission Oil Cooler

Type Concentric Tube

Location. . Rad. Bottom Tank

17 qts.

16 qts.

Tube & Spacer

Concentric Tube

Rad. Bottom Tank

Radiator Pressure Cap

Type Pressure Vent

Pressure Setting . . . . 12-15 psi Std.

15-16 psi Air

Conditioning Only

Pressure Vent

12-15 psi Std.

15*16 psi Air

Conditioning Only p a n

_ S t a n d a r d . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Blade, 18" Dia.

Air Conditioning. . . . 7 Blade, 18" Dia.

4 Blade, 18" Dia.

7 i l a d e 18Vi" Dia.

Fluid Fan Drive T y p e . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . ... Silicone Fluid Filled

Thermal Control

Silicone Fluid Filled,

Thermal Control

(Air Conditioning Only) (Air Conditioning Only)

Thermostat

S e t t i n g , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 7 M 83°F.

Water Pump Type. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Centrifugal,

Ball Bearing

Fan Shroud Type

(with Air Conditioning) Full Box

177°- 183°F,

Centrifugal,

Ball Bearing

Full Box

*VC -2 FirePower 390

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7-2 COOLING SYSTEM

Accessory

ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES

SPECIFICATIONS

Torque Method

All Models

Torque (Foot-Pounds) to be Applied to Components

left In Use New Belt

Alternator

, VC-1, VC-2

VC-3, VY-1

40*

30*

* NOTE: The torque wrench assumes a different position according to the model, when adjusting the belt tension.

60*

40*

M I T DEFLECTION METHOD

A l l M o d e l s

Deflection ( I n c h e s ) to b e A p p l i e d « t Midpoint of

Belt Segment

U n d e r a S Pound L e a d *

|S©e F i g u r e 9\

Accessory Belt in Use Neyf Belt

Power Steering . . . . .

Vn % fan Belt—Idler V . ; . J

Alternator—Without A/C* VA VS

With A / C * . . . . . . . . . . % % 7 7

*A/Ci

—Air Conditioning

SPECIAL TOOLS

C-412 Puller—Fan Hub C-3514 Flushing Gun

C-3250 Pliers—Hose Clamp C-3753... Remover—Pump Seal

C-3468 Installer—Pump Bearing and Shaft C-3832. . . Belt Adjusting Tool—Power Steering Pump

C-3476 Puller—Pump Impeller Insert C - 3 8 4 1 . . . . . . . . B e l t Adjusting Tool—Alternator

C-3499 Gauge—Pressure Testing

T O R Q U E REFERENCE

Water Pump Bolts

Fan Attaching Bolts

Thermostat Housing Bolts

Foot-Pounds Torque

16-18

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COOLING SYSTEM 7-3

COOLING SYSTEM

The cooling system incorporates a tube and spacer type full flow radiator, and a centrifugal water pump with a 180°F. thermostat.

On vehicles equipped with an air conditioningheater unit, there is a 16 psi radiator pressure cap.

The cooling system should be protected with sufficient permanent type antifreeze to insure the enf^ne coolant to + 15°F. in the summer and greater strength of antifreeze in the winter according to the prevailing temperatures.

Models with standard equipment have a 4 blade,

18 inch fan, as shown in Figure 1. Models equipped with air conditioning have 7 blade,

I8V2

inch fan, on the VY-1 and an 18 inch fan on the VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3 as shown in Figure 2. All VC-2 models with

Fire Power 390 engine have a 7 blade 18 inch diameter fan.

The spacer (Fig. 1) used on VC-1, VC-2 and VC-3 models is 1.40 inch thick and on VY-1 models it is

1.60 inch thick.

1. FLUID F A N DRIVE

( W i t h A i r Conditioning)

The fan drive unit is a silicone fluid filled coupling connecting the fan to the fan drive pulley (Fig. 2).

The unit is designed to provide the following:

Fig. 2-Fluid Fan Drive

The speed of the drive is controlled by the thermal coil or spring mounted in front of the drivi unit. The main features of the thermal drive is to run the fan slow in cold weather and faster in hot weather.

If a cooling malfunction is encountered and the fluid fan drive unit is suspected, install a unit known to be operating properly and test by operating the vehicle under the same conditions. Replace the drive unit assembly if the trouble was corrected with the test unit.

(1) Maintain satisfactory engine cooling in hot weather.

(2) Eliminate fan noise at all speeds in cold weather.

2 . W A T E R PUMP (Remevcil f r o m t h e

(3) Reduce fan noise in hot weather at high vehicle speed.

V e h i c l e ) ( F i g . 3 )

(1) Drain the cooHig system. (Remove the upper

Fig. 1—Standard Fan Drive Fig. 3—Water

P u m p

Assembly

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7-4 COOLING SYSTEM an attempt is made to remove the shaft in the opposite direction, damage to the water pump body may result.

NOTE; The tearing and hub assemblies removed from water pumps for any reason should not be used again because damage to bearings and hub usually result during removal.

(7) Clean all parts thoroughly. Remove rust from the housing with a wire brush.

Assembly (Fig. 3)

Inspect the seal surface of the impeller huh to be sure it is free of nicks, burrs, scratches and rust.

If necessary remove these blemishes using crocus cloth on a flat plate,

(1) Apply a thin coat of MoPar Perfect Seal Sealing Compound, Part Number 1057794 to the seal pocket in the pump body. half of the fan shroud on Air Conditioning models

only.)

Fig. 4—Removing the Plastic Impeller

(2) With the pump housing supported at the hub end, use a!V4 inch (12 point) socket to apply pressure against the outer lip of the seal retainer and press the seal assembly into the body until the retainer lip is against the pump body.

(2) Loosen the power steering pump, idler pulley arid alternator. Remove all belts.

(3) Remove the fan, spacer and pulley. On Air

Conditioning models, remove the pulley from the water pump fan hub. Loosen all nuts from the fan to remove the fan drive.

(3) With the thrower ring in position on the long end of the pump shaft (approximately Vs inch from the bearing assembly) start the shaft and bearing assembly into the fan hub end of the pump body bore. ^

(4) Remove the bolts attaching the water pump body to the housing and remove the water pump.

Disassembly (fig.

3 J

(4) Use a 1% inch (12 point) socket and support the pump body at the seal end. With Tool C-3468 positioned against the outer bearing race, press the shaft and bearing into the pump body so the end of

(1) Support the pump body on the hub and remove the impeller by breaking the plastic away from the the bearing is exactly flush with the end of the pump body. metal insert, as shown in Figure 4. Qp)

Whilesupporting the pump on the impeller

(2) Remove the impeller metal insert using a

§bk§l end of the shaft, press the fan hub onto the shaft

(flat surface, ou;t) so the shaft extends } % t

inch

NOTE: The shaft and bearing assembly do not through the fan hub, have to be removed to service a leaking pump. The (6) Support the pump on the fan hub end of the shaft and bearing assembly should he very carefully inspected to be sure the pump leak has not damaged shaft arid position the new impeller on the pump shaft (blade portion lip). Using a tool that will press the bearing. against the impeller insert only, press the impeller

(3) Remove the rubber portion of the shaft seal onto the shaft until it is flush with the end of the and the spring. shaft.

(4) Using Tool C-3753, remove the seal retainer from the housing.

Installation on the Vehicle

(5) Remove the fan hub with Tool C-412.

(6) Support the body on the fan hub end and press out the shaft and bearing assembly.

CAUTION: The shaft and bearing assembly can be removed only in the direction described. If

(1) Install the water pump body on the housing, using a new gasket.

(2) Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

Install the pulley, spacer and fan. (On Air Conditioning models, assemble the fan to the fan drive and pulley, and attach the assembly to the water pump.)

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COOLING SYSTEM 7-5

(3) Tighten the nuts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

Install the upper half of the fan shroud, run the engine, and test for leaks.

3 . RADIATOR

The transmission oil cooler is located in the bottom radiator tank, which is an integral part of the radiator.

Removal

(1) Drain the cooling system.

(2) Remove the two oil cooler connections at the bottom of the radiator (if so equipped).

(3) Drain the oil from the transmission oil cooler.

(4) Remove the radiator hoses, fan shroud (on Air

Conditioning models only) and radiator support bolts.

(5) Remove the radiator.

Installation

(1) Attach the radiator to the radiator support bolt and reconnect the two oil cooler connections

(if so equipped).

(2) Install the fan shroud (if so equipped), connect the hoses and refill the cooling system. Test for leaks.

(3) Add sufficient oil to the transmission to refill the system. (If automatic transmission equipped.)

Cleaning

(1) Drain the cooling system and refill with clean

SOFT water and add the contents of one can (No. 1 top-compartment of MoPar Cooling System Cleaner).

(2) Operate the engine at a fast idle for

to % hour.

(3) Drain the cooling system and refill with clean water.

(4) Pour the conditioner (No. 2 bottom-compartment) into the radiator and. run engine for ten minutes.

(5) Flush the entire cooling system until the water runs clean.

(6) Refill the radiator with clean SOFT water.

(7) Use MoPar Radiator Rust Inhibitor during the summer months.

Testing Oil Cooler for Leaks

(1) Disconnect both oil cooler lines at the radiator.

(2) Connect a pressure gauge to one cooler connection and a shut off valve to the other. Close the valve.

(3) Connect a source of air pressure to the valve.

(4) Coat all fittings with oil.

(5) Open the valve and apply (up to 100 psi) air pressure. Oil bubbles will identify any fitting joint leaks. Repair all joint leaks.

(6) Close the valve. The gauge reading will then drop if the cooler is leaking inside of the lower radiator tank.

Repairing the Oil Cooler

(1) Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

(2) Remove the radiator lower tank.

(3) Melt the soft solder holding the cooler to the tank.

(4) Remove the stamped retainer nuts holding the cooler fittings to the bottom tank and remove the cooler.

(5) Install a new cooler or repair the old cooler with silver solder and reinstall as follows:

(6) Position the oil cooler in the bottom tank and install the stamped retainer nuts on the oil cooler fittings.

(7) Use soft solder to secure the cooler in the tank.

(8) Attach the bottom tank to the radiator using soft solder.

(9) Install the radiator as described in Paragraph

(10) Fill the cooling system and test for leaks.

If the transmission operates properly after repairing the leak, drain the transmission and torque converter while hot, remove the transmission oil pan and inspect for sludge, rust, dirty or plugged inlet filter. If none of these conditions are found reconditioning may not be necessary. Reassemble the transmission. Fill the transmission using Transmission Fluid Type "A", Suffix "A".

4 . T R A N S M I S S I O N O I L COOLER

In case of a leak, the engine coolant may become mixed with the transmission fiuid, also, the transmission fluid may enter the cooling system. Both the cooling system and the transmission should be inspected in the event the cooler is leaking.

5 . REVERSE FLUSHING THE C O O L I N G

SYSTEM

Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure, in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water.

MyMopar.com

7-6 COOLING SYSTEM flushing Cylinder Block

(1) Drain the radiator and remove the hoses at the radiator.

(2) Remove the thermostat and reinstall the thermostat housing.

(3) Install flushing gun, Tool C-3514, or other suitable flushing gun to the inlet hose.

(4) Connect the water hose of the gun to a pressure water source and the air hose of the gun to a pressure air source.

(5) Turn on the water, and when the cylinder block is filled, turn on the air in short blasts.

(6) Allow the cylinder block to fill between the blasts of air.

(7) Continue this procedure until the water runs clean. Test the thermostat and if satisfactory, reinstall; otherwise, replace, using a new housing gasket.

(8) Refill the cooling system and test for leaks.

If the thermostat does not close completely when cold, the engine will warm up slowly or not at all, and heater performance will also be impaired. Poor heater performance may also be due to the valve opening at too low a temperature. Too high a valve opening temperature or a valve that will not open can cause overheating.

Removal

(1) Drain the cooling system down to the thermostat level or below.

(2) Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing using pliers Tool C-3250.

(3) Remove the thermostat housing bolts and remove the thermostat and housing.

Reverse flushing the Radiator

(1) Drain the cooling system and remove the hoses from the engitie.

(2) Install a flushing gun, Tool C-3514, or other suitable flushing gun in the radiator lower outlet.

(3) Fill the radiator and turn on the air in short blasts.

CAUTION: Do not apply more than 15 psi pressure when pressure flushing a radiator, as damage to the radiator may result.

(4) Continue this procedure until the water runs clean. Refill the cooling system.

(5) Run the engine and test for leaks.

6. THERMOSTAT

The thermostat is actuated by a pellet containing a copper-impregnated wax (Fig. 5). As the temperature of the pellet increases, the wax expands and opens the valve, A 180° thermostat is standard equipment.

Testing Thermostat

(1) Visually inspect the thermostat to make sure the valve closes tightly. If the valve does not close completely due to dirt, sand or other foreign material, carefully clean the sealing edge making sure the sealing edge is not damaged. If the valve does not close tightly when clean, install a new thermostat.

(2) Immerse the thermostat in a container of warm water so that the pellet of the thermostat is completely covered. The pellet must not touch the bottom or sides of the container.

(3) Heat the water and stir it continuously (to insure uniform temperature) and test the water temperature with a thermometer at the point when a .003" feeler gauge can be inserted into the valve opening. The feeler gauge should pass freely into the valve opening at a water temperature of 175° to 185°F. If outside of this range, replace the thermostat.

(4) Continue heating the water to approximately

200°F. The thermostat valve should be fully open at this temperature. If it does not, replace the thermostat.

Installation

(1) Using a new gasket, position the thermostat so the pellet end is toward the engine and attach with bolts through the thermostat housing.

(2) If removed, reinstall or replace the upper hose using Tool C-3250.

(3) Fill the cooling system to VA inches below the filler neck with water and rust resistor or water and antifreeze.

Pig. 5—Thermostats

7. R A D I A T O R HOSES

The hoses are removed and installed using hose clamp pliers Tool C-3250.

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COOLING SYSTEM 7-7

6 4 x 1 8 6

Fig.

6— Radiator Pressure

Cap

A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose should be replaced.

The reinforcement spring inside the lower hose is necessary to prevent collapsing of the hose due to suction at medium or high engine speeds. If this spring is weak or broken, it should be replaced.

8 . R A D I A T O R PRESSURE C A P

Radiators are equipped with a 14 psi cap, as standard equipment and 16 psi with air conditioning, as shown in Figure 6. Always note the identification number on the cap when replacing.

WARNING: When removing the pressure cap, turn counter-clockwise to the stop, permitting the built-up pressure to escape through the overflow tube. This will prevent the hot water from spraying out of the radiator filler opening.

9 . TESTING THE RADIATOR C A P

Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter from the kit, Tool C-3499. Slip the seal on the tube at the bottom of the instrument. Attach either end of

the short adaptor to the instrument. Dip the pressure cap in water and apply the cap to the end of the adapter. Working the plunger, as shown in

Figure 7, bring the pressure to 14 pounds on the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold the pressure within a range of 12 to 15 pounds, replace the cap with a new tested cap. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the cap should test between

15 to 16 psi.

The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap should hang freely. If the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap.

Fig.

7—

Testing the Pressure

Cap

(2) Attach the tester, Tool C-3499 to the radiator, as shown in Figure 8 and apply 15 pounds pressure.

If the pressure drops inspect all points for external leaks.

WARNING: Pressure builds up fast.

Any excessive

amount of pressure built up by continuous engine operation,

must

be released

a safe pressure point. N E V E R PERMIT PRESSURE T O E X C E E D

15 LBS.

(3) If there are no external leaks, after the gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester and run the engine to operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand.

Re-attach the tester and pump to 7 lbs. pressure while the engine is running. Race the engine, and if the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak, usually a head gasket.

(4) Remove the wires from the spark plugs on one bank and operate the engine on the opposite bank. If the needle continues to fluctuate, it indicates a leak on the bank still in operation. If the needle ceases to fluctuate, the leak is in the bank, the combustion has been released from.

1 0 . PRESSURE TESTING THE C O O L I N G

S Y S T E M

(1) Wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat clean.

The water level should be

¥2

inch below the neck of the radiator.

Fig.

8—

Pressure Testing the Cooling System

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7-8 COOLING SYSTEM

(5) If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate race the engine a few times and if an abnormal amount of water emits from the exhaust system at the tail pipe, it may indicate a leak that can be a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block, or the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.

(6) If the above pressure test of the cooling system holds the pressure as outlined above, then there is no leak, however, there may be internal leaks which can be determined by removing the oil dipstick and if water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a serious internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled, the leak located and necessary new parts installed.

1 1 . ENGINE W A T E R TEMPERATURE G A U G E

For removal, Installation and Testing procedures of the water temperature sending and receiving units, refer to "Gauges", Group 8, "Electrical".

ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES

1 2 . PROPER BELT TENSION 1 3 . TORQUE METHOD

The satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories (Fig. 9) depends on the maintenance of the poper belt teiMon. There are two methods by which belt tensions can be properly established,

"The Torque Method" and "The belt Deflection

Method". If the specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage may cause engine overheating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced belt life. To avoid any such adverse effects, the following service procedure should be followed:

•Adjust all belts to the specified "belt in use" tension at new vehicle preparation. The new belt tension specifications should be used on all belt replacement, and the above procedure followed t h e r e a f t e r 7 " '

All alternator and power steering pump belts can be tightened to the specified tension by use of a torque wrench. The pow^r steering belts aire tightened by using Tool C-3832 and torque wrench Tool

€-5005. The alternator belts are tensioned by using a special Tool C-3841 and torque wrench Tool

C-3005.

The special tool should be hooked at the heavilyribbed section of the alternator rectifier end shield. Other belts can also be tightened by this method if the adjusting bracket has a square hole.

To tighten belts by the torque method, loosen all mounting bolts and apply the specified torque to the accessory or idler. Tighten all mounting bolts while the torque is applied to the accessory. If it is not possible to use the torque wrench because of clearance, use an extension. w.p. cs.

P.S.

Fig. 9—BeSt Deflection Locations

W.P. cs.

P.S.

6 0 x 2 4 4 A

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COOLING SYSTEM 7-9

1 4 . BELT DEFLECTION METHOD

All belts can also be tightened by measuring the deflection of the belt at the mid-point between two pulleys under a five-pound push or pull. A small spring scale can be used to establish the five-pound load. See Figure 9 for correct location at which to measure deflection.

This method should be used only when it is not possible to use the torque method. To tension the belts by the deflection method, loosen all mounting bolts and use a bar to apply tensions to the belts being careful not to damage the accessory. A

V2 inch square drive hinge handle can be used if the accessory has a square hole. Tighten the mounting bolts and test the deflection. (See Specifications.)

It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to establish the correct tension.

*Any belt that has operated for a minimum of a half-hour is considered a "belt in use".

C O O L I N G SYSTEM

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Condition Possible Cause Correction

External Leakage

Internal Leakage

(a) Loose hose clamp.

(b) Hose leaking.

(c) Leaking radiator. m

(e)

<*)

(g)

(h)

Worn or damaged water pump seal.

Loose core hole plug.

Damaged gasket, or dry gasket, if engine has been stored.

Cylinder head bolts loose, or tightened unevenly.

Leak at heater connection.

(1)

Leak at water temperature sending unit.

Leak at water pump attaching bolt.

(k) Leak at exhaust manifold stud.

(1)

Cracked thermostat housing,

(m) Dented radiator inlet or outlet tube.

(n)

(o)

(p)

(q)

(r)

(s)

(t)

Leaking heater core.

Cracked or porous water pump housing.

Warped or cracked cylinder head.

Cracked cylinder block.

Sand holes or porous condition in block or head.

Faulty pressure cap.

Loose or stripped oil cooler fittings.

(a) Faulty head gasket.

(b) Refer to causes (f), (g), (p), (q) f

(r) and (t) listed under External

Leakage.

(a) Replace the hose clamp.

(b) Replace the hose.

(c) Repair or replace the radiator as necessary.

(d) Replace the water pump seal.

(e) Install new core hole plug.

(f) Replace gaskets as necessary.

(g)

(h)

Replace the cylinder head gasket and torque head in correct sequence.

Clean the heater connections and replace the hoses and clamps if necessary.

(i)

Tighten the water temperature sending

(j) unit.

Tighten the water pump attaching bolts

30 foot-pounds torque.

(k) Seal and re-drive the stud.

(1)

Replace the thermostat housing,

(m) Straighten the radiator inlet or outlet tube as necessary,

(n) Repair or replace the heater core,

(o) Replace the water pump assembly.

(p) Replace the cylinder head.

(q) Replace the cylinder block.

(r) Replace the cylinder block or cylinder head as necessary,

(s) Replace pressure cap.

(t) Tighten or replace as necessary.

(a) Install a new head gasket.

(b) Refer to corrections (f), (g), (p), (q), (r) and (t) listed under External Leakage.

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7-10 COOLING SYSTEM

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible C a u s e Condition Correction

External Leakage

C o n t ' d

(c) Crack in head into valve compartment.

(d) Cracked valve port.

Poor Circulation

(a) Low coolant level.

( b )

Collapsed radiator hose. (A bottom hose with faulty spring may collapse only at medium or high engine speeds.)

(c) Fan belt glazed, oil soaked, or loose.

(a) Fill radiator to correct level.

(b) Replace the hose and spring.

••(c)

Tighten or replace the fan belt as necessary.

(d) Air leak through bottom hose. (d) Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose.

(e) Faulty thermostat.

(f)

Water pump impeller broken or loose on shaft.

(e) Replace the thermostat.

(f)

Replace the water pump impeller assembly.

(g) Restricted radiator core water •••••(g) Flush the radiator thoroughly. passages.

(h) Restricted engine water jacket. (h) Flush the engine cooling system thoroughly.

Overheating or Apparent

(a)

Overheating (refer to

Causes listed under

" P o o r C i r c u l a t i o n " )

( b )

Low coolant level.

Blocked radiator air passages.

(c) Incorrect ignition timing.

(d) Low engine oil level.

(e) Incorrect valve timing.

(f) Inaccurate temperature gauge.

(g) Restricted overflow tube.

(a) Fill radiator to proper level.

(b) Blow out the radiator air passages.

(c) Time the engine ignition system.

(d) Add engine oil to the correct level.

(e) Correct the engine valve timing.

(f)

Replace the temperature gauge.

(g)

Remove restriction from the overflow tube.

(h) Replace the radiator cap. (h) Faulty radiator pressure cap or seat.

(i)

Frozen heat control valve.

(j) Dragging brakes.

(k) Excessive engine idling.

(1)

Frozen coolant.

(m) Faulty fan drive unit.

(n) Faulty temperature sending unit.

(i)

Free up the manifold heat control valve.

(j) Adjust the brakes.

(k) Stop engine.

(1) Thaw out cooling system, add antifreeze as required.

(m) Replace the fan drive unit.

(n) Replace the sending unit.

Overflow Loss

(e) Crack in block into push rod

(f)

( b ) compartment.

Cracked cylinder wall.

(g) Leaking oil cooler.

(a) Refer to causes listed under

"Poor Circulation and

Overheating".

Overfilling.

•(c)- Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head.

(d) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head.

(e) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.

( f

)

Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.

(g) Repair or replace the oil cooler.

(a) Refer to corrections under "Poor

Circulation and Overheating".

(b) Adjust coolant to the correct level.

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Condition

Overflow Loss

C o n t ' d

C o r r o s i o n

Temperature Too

Low—Slow Engine

W a r m Up

Water P u m p Noisy

COOLING SYSTEM 7-11

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause Correction

(c) Coolant foaming due to insufficient corrosion inhibitor.

(d) Air leak at bottom radiator hose.

(e) Blown head gasket.

(a) Use of water containing large concentration of lime and minerals.

(b) Low coolant level.

(c) Insufficient corrosion inhibitor.

(d) Use of antifreeze for extended length of time.

(e) Failure to use corrosion inhibitor in summer.

(f) Air leak at bottom radiator hose.

(a) Faulty thermostat.

(b) Inaccurate temperature gauge.

(c) Faulty temperature sending unit.

(a) Seal noisy.

(b) Bearing corroded.

(c) Flush the radiator and add MoPar antifreeze or rust inhibitor as required.

(d) Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose.

(e) Replace the head gasket.

(a) Use only clean soft water.

(b) Fill the cooling system to the correct level.

(c) Use MoPar antifreeze or rust inhibitor as required.

(d) Drain cooling system and replace with new antifreeze.

(e) Flush radiator and refill with clean soft water and rust inhibitor.

(f) Replace the hose and/or hose clamps

(a) Replace the thermostat.

(b) Replace the temperature gauge.

(c) Replace the sending unit.

(a) Add 202 MoPar Water Pump Lube.

(b) Replace bearing seal and impeller.

A C C E S S O R Y BELT DRIVES

Insufficient Accessory

O u t p u t Due t o Beit

Slippage

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Belt excessively glazed or worn.

Belt Squeal When

Accelerating Engine

(a) Belts too loose.

(b) Belts glazed.

Belt Squeak a t Idle (a) Belt too loose.

(b) Dirt and paint imbedded in belt.

(c) Non-uniform belt.

(d) Misaligned pulleys.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Replace and tighten as specified.

(a) Adjust belt tensions.

(b) Replace belts.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Replace belt.

(c) Replace belt.

(d) Align accessories (file brackets or use spacers as required).

(e) Replace pulley.

B e l t Rolled Over i n

Groove

(e) Non-uniform groove or eccentric pulley.

(a) Broken cord in belt.

(a) Replace belt.

(b) Install matched belts.

Belt Jumps Off

(b) Belts not matched (A/C).

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Belts not matched (A/C).

(c) Misaligned pulleys.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Install matched belts.

(c) Align accessories.

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GROUP

8 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

PART

1—

BATTERY

Page

Specifications • • • • 4

High Rate Discharge Test.

Voltage Tests. • . . . . . . . . . 11

Specifications

Starting Motor Circuit Tests

Starting Motor—Removal..

Brushes and Springs

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s . . . . . . . . . .

Starting Motor Testing. . .

Starting Motor—Removal.

Starting Motor Bench Test

Brushes and Springs

PART

—STARTING MOTOR

(DIRECT DRIVE!

4 Armature Testing

15 Field Coil T e s t i n g . . . . . .

15 Starting Motor Assembly

17 Service Diagnosis

(REDUCTION GEAR TYPE)

. . . . . . . 4 Armature Testing..

, 20 Field Coil Testing.

22 Starter Clutch Unit

22 Service Diagnosis.

PART

3—

ALTERNATOR AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Specifications 5 Rectifiers Testing

Alternator Testing. 34 Slip Rings Replacement.

Alternator Removal. 38 Service Diagnosis .

Alternator Bench Tests 38

PART

4—

IGNITION SYSTEM

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Distributor R e m o v a l . . . . . . . . . . . .

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8-2 ELECTRICAL

C O N T E N T S — ( C o n t i n u e d 1

PART S — L I G H T I N G S Y S T E M

Page

PART 6 — I N S T R U M E N T S ' — I N D I C A T O R S

INSTRUMENTS

Temperature Indicating System... . . . . . . . . 64

Oil Pressure Gauge—Imperial • • • • *«...

Oil Pressure Warning L a m p — C h r y s l e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Instrument Cluster Bulbs 68

Switch Title Lighting—Imperial 3 8

Fuse Block. . . ©8

DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS

PART 7 — W I N D S H I E L D W I P E R S — H O R N S

WINDSHIELD W I P E R S

Wiper Motor Park Switch Timing 73

. . 75

Testing Horns..

Adjusting Horns

H O R N S

78 Service Diagnosis

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ELECTRICAL 8-3

C O N T E N T S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

PART 8 — P O W E R EQUIPMENT

ELECTRIC D O O R L O C K S

Page Page

Solenoid. . 80 Service Diagnosis . . . . 80

S I X - W A Y P O W E R SEATS

F O U R - W A Y P O W E R SEATS

ELECTRIC W I N D O W LIFTS

Wiring T e s t .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Window Lift—Imperial. 91

Motor—Removal.

Window Lift—Chrysler.... 91

ELECTRIC DECK L I D — I M P E R I A L

PART 9 — W I R I N G D I A G R A M S

Body Wiring (Except Town and Country) Chrysler.... 95 Engine Compartment Wiring—Imperial 102

Cigar Lighter—Imperial 104

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8 -4 ELECTRICAL

Mode} Usage

SPECIFICATIONS

BATTERY

VC-1

(With 361 Cu. In.

Engines)

Standard

Equipment

MB-24-59

VC-1 VC-2

VC-3

VY-1

(With 413 Cu. In. Engines)

Special

Equipment

Negative

MB-27-70

Standard

Equipment

Negative

MB-27-70

STARTING M O T O R

GEAR REDUCTION DIRECT DRIVE

STARTING MOTOR STARTING MOTOR

(All 1964 Models VC1, VC2 w i t h Manual

Except V C 1 , VC2 w i t h Manual Trans.) Transmission

Make. Chrysler Built Chrysler Built

No. of Fields 4 (3 Series, 1 Shunt)

No. of Poles . . . . . 4

Spring Tension 32 to 48 Ounces 32 to 48 Ounces

Drive Overrunning Clutch Solenoid Shift—Overrunning

Clutch

End Play .- .010"—.035" .005" Minimum

Free-Running Test

Speed RPM. . . 1925 to 2400

Lock-Resistance Test

Amperage Draw. 400 to 450

Solenoid Switch

Pull-in Coil 14.4—16.0 Amps.® 6.0 Volts

Hold-In Coil . 11.5—12.6 Amps. @ 6.0 Volts

3800 Minimum

350

20.0—22.2 Amps.® 6.0 Volts

11.2—12.4 Amps.® 6.0 Volts

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ELECTRICAL 8 -5

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

ALTERNATOR

Rotation Clockwise at Drive Bid

V o l t a g e . . . . . .

12 Volt System

Current Output. Design Controlled

Voltage Output. Limited by Voltage Regulator

Brushes (Field) 2

Condenser Capacity 50 Microfarad Plus or minus 2 0 %

Reld Current Draw—

Rotating Rotor by Hand @ 12 Volts.

2.38

to 2.75

Amperes Maximum

Current O u t p u t -

Standard. . .

34 .5 plus or minus 3 amperes

Special Equip., Heavy Duty and/or Air Conditioning

(Both Single and Double Pulleys).

39 plus or minus 3 amperes

NOTE: Plus or minus three ampere tolerance is provided to allow for temperature variation. Current output is measured at1250 engine RPM and 15 volts. Voltage is controlled by variable load across the battery such as a carbon pile.

ALTERNATOR V O L T A G E REGULATOR

Alternator Voltage

Regulator Identification Number.

2098300

V o l t s . . . . . . .

Ground Polarity Negative

Point G a p . . . . . . . . .

.014

inch plus or minus .002

inch

Air G a p . . . . . . . . . .

.048

to .052

inch nominal setting

Measure g a p with gauge back of stop. Contacts close with .052

inch gauge installed. Contacts open with.

048 inch gauge installed.

Temperature in Degrees 7 0 ° F . 9 3 ° F .

117*1% 140°F. 163°F.

Minimum Setting.

Maximum Setting

13.7

to 13.6

to 13.5

to 13.4

to 13.3

14.3 14.2 14.1 14.0 13.9

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8 -6 ELECTRICAL

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

I G N I T I O N SYSTEM

Vehicle Model VC2-300 K (with 2 -4 VC-1, VC-2 (with 4

Bore Carb.)

413 cubic inch

Engine Displacement 413 cubic inch

Prestolite Built

Distributor Prestolite Built with Tachometer Drive

2444361 IBS—4011C with Tachometer Drive and Double Breaker and Double Breaker

Advance—Automatic (Distributor Degrees at Distributor rpm). 0 ° ® 525 to 675

0 to 3*@ 675

4.5 to 6.5° @ 910

0 ° @ 3 2 5 t o 4 7 5

0 to 4.0° © 4 7 5

4.5 to 6.5* © 640

9 to 11° © 2 4 0 0

Advance—Vacuum (Distributor Degrees at inches of Mercury). 0 ° @ 6 " t o 9 "

4.5 to 7.5° @ 12"

7.5 to 10.5° © 1 4 , 3 "

0 ° @ 7 . 2 " t o 8 . 9 "

4.5 to 7.5° © 12"

7.5 to 1 0 . 5 ° © 14.5"

Breaker Point Gap

Dwell^ngle.

.01

4" to .019"

27° to 32°

(one set points)

34° to 40°

(both sets points)

.01

4" to.019"

27° to 32°

(one set points)

34° to 4 0 °

(both sets points)

Breaker Arm Spring Tension 17 to 21.5 o i . 17 to 21.5 oz.

Condenser C a p a c i t y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 to .285 mfd. .25 to .285 mfd.

Shaft Side Play. .000" to .003"* .000" to .003"*

Shaft End Play (After Assembly) .003" to .010" .003" to .010"

Rotation Counter-Clockwise Counter-Clockwise

Spark Plugs. XJ-10Y Champion J-10Y Champion

Siie 14 M M — % Reach 14 M M — % Reach

Gap .035 inch .035 inch

Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Ignition Timing 1214° BTC 10° BTC

Coil . . . . Chrysler Prestolite

Chrysler Essex

Identification N o . . . . . . . . . 2444242 200759

2444241 67-160-4

Primary Resistance © 70-80° F . . . . . 1.65-1.79 ohms

1.41-1.55 ohms

Secondary Resistance © 7 0 - 8 0 ° F 9400-11700 ohms

9200-10600 ohms

Ballast Resistor 2095501

Resistance © 70-80° F. 0.5-0.6 ohms

Current Draw (Coil and Ballast Resistor in Circuit)

Engine Stopped

Engine Idling .

3.0 Amperes

1.9 Amperes

•Service Wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.

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ELECTRICAL 8-7

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

I G N I T I O N SYSTEM

Vehicle Model VC-1, VC-2 VC-3, VY-1

Engine Displacement. 361, 383 cubic inch 413 cubic inch

(with 2 bore Carb.) (with 4 bore Carb.)

Distributor Chrysler Built Chrysler Built

Identification No.. 2444261 2444263

Advance—Automatic (Distributor Degrees at

Distributor RPM). . . . 0 ° @ 250 to 450 0 ° @ 310 to 490

0° to 2° © 4 5 0 0° to 2° © 490

2.5° to 4.5° © 700 3.5° to 5.5° © 800

10.5° to 12.5° © 2150 8.5° to 10.5° © 2300

Advance—Vacuum (Distributor Degrees at

Inches of Mercury) 0° © 4.5" to 8" 0° © 6" to 9"

6° to 9 ° @ 12" 3° to 6 ° @ 1 1 "

11.5° to 14.5° © 16.5" 6° to 8.5° © 13"

Breaker Point Gap 014" to .019" .014" to .019"

Dwell Angle 17 to 20 oz. 17 to 20 oz.

Breaker Arm Spring Tension. 28° to 33° 2 8 ° to 33°

Condenser Capacity. .25 to .285 mfd. .25 to .285 mfd.

Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt) 000" to .003"* .000" to .003"*

Shaft End Play (After Assembly) .003" to .017" .003" to .017"

Rotation Counter-Clockwise Counter-Clockwise

Spark Plug Type J-12Y Champion J-12Y Champion

Size. 14 M M — % Reach 14 M M — % Reach

Gap .035 inch .035 inch

Firing Order 1 -8-4-3-6-5-7-2 1 -8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Ignition Timing. 10° BTC 10° BTC

Coil Chrysler Prestolite Chrysler Essex

Identification No 2444242 200759 2444241 67-160-4

Primary Resistance . . 1.65-1.79 ohms 1.41-1.55 ohms

Secondary Resistance . . . . 9400-11700 ohms 9200-11700 ohms

Ballast Resistor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \ . 2095501

Resistance. 0.5-0.6 ohms

Current Draw (Coil and Ballast Resistor in the Circuit)

Engine Stopped 3.0 Amperes

Engine Idling. 1.9 Amperes

•Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.

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8-8

ELECTRICAL

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — ( C o n t i n u e d 1

BULB CHART

BULB

Sealed Beam—Lo-Beam.....

Sealed Beam—Hi-Beam

Tail, Stop & Turn Signal

Park & Turn Signal

License Lamp

Trunk and/or Under Hood Lamp

Glove Compartment

Radio

Transmission Control Push Buttons.

Handbrake Indicator.

Dome Lamp • •

Map Lamp.

Ash Receiver.

Auto Pilot

Ignition Switch

Switch Titles.

Heater and/or A.C. Control P/B.

Turn Signal Indicator

High Beam Indicator . . . . . . . . —

Oil Pressure Indicator. .

Instrument Cluster Illumination.

(a) Included in switch title lighting.

CHRYSLER

4002

4001

1034

1004

1691

53 X-AM

57-FM

53 X

57.

1004

1816

53 X

—.

IMPERIAL

4002

4001

1034

(a)

—

1004

1891

53 X-AM

57-FM

1004

FUSE CHART

Circuit Fuse Type Ampere Rating

Radio. 3 AG/AGC 7 .5

AMP

Heater or Air Conditioning 3 AG/AGC 20 AMP

Accessories.... 3 AG/AGC 15 AMP

Rear Air Conditioning 3 AG/AGC 20 AMP

Cigar Lighter. 3 AG/AGC 20 AMP

Tail, Stop, D o m e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . „ 3 AG/AGC 20 AMP

Instrument Lamps 3 AG/AGC *

*3 AMP—Chrysler

4 AMP—Imperial

CIRCUIT BREAKER CHART

Circuit Circuit Breaker Location Ampere Rating

Chrysler Imperial

Windshield Wiper (Variable Speed)

Windshield Wiper (Single Speed)

Lighting System

Bee Window Lifts, Elec. (Powerl Seats,

Top lift. Power Vent Windows*

Back of Wiper Switch 6 6

Integral with Wiper Switch 5 —

Integral with Headlamp Switch 15 15

Behind left front kick panel 30 30

*Power Vent Windows—Imperial only

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ELECTRICAL 8-9

SPECIAL T O O L S

ELECTRICAL

C-707 Point Gap Indicating Tool

C-744. . . . Test Lamp

C-770. . • Commutator Undercutter

C-828 .Tool Kit—Generator Regulator

C*3041 .Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing—Remover and Installer

C-3296 High Voltage Tester

C-3428 .Steering Wheel Puller

C-3674 Headlamp Aimer Kit

C-3769 Installer—Drive End Housing Bearing

C - 3 7 7 0 . . . . — Remover—Rectifier End Housing Bearing

C-3744 Puller—Distributor Shaft Bushings

G-3826 Gauge Tester

C-3824 Spanner Wrench

C-3855 Holders—Armature Brush Set

C-3900. Slip Ring Installer

C-3921 Installer and Locator—Alternator Bearing Grease Retainer

C-3925 Support Alternator Rectifier End Shield Supporting—

End Shield Bearing Removing and Installing

C-3928 Remover and Installer—Alternator Rectifier Diodes

C-3934 Pulley Removing Tool (Power Steering Pump Pulley Removing Tool)

C-3944. . Remover and Installer—Starter Housing Bushings

SP-3375. Adapters—Bearing Remover

SP-3381 Installer—Rectifier End Housing Bearing

MT-379 Battery Tester

MTU-36 •, .Spring Scale

M T - 3 1 0 . . . . . . . .

—

i . . . . . .Open Circuit Voltage Tester

MX-75 Battery Terminal Cleaner Tool

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8-10 BATTERY

ELECTRICAL

PART 1 BATTERY

1. BATTERY V I S U A L INSPECTION

(7) Tighten the battery hold-down screw nuts to

3 foot-pounds torque.

(1) Protect the fender paint finish with fender covers.

(2) Inspect the battery carrier and fender side panel for damage caused by loss of acid from the battery.

(8) Observe the polarity of the terminals of battery to be sure the battery is not reversed and connect the cable clamps to the battery posts and tighten securely. Coat all connections with light mineral grease or petrolatum.

(3) Remove the battery hold-down clamp and clean the top of the battery with a solution of clean warm water and baking soda. Scrub areas with a stiff bristle brush being careful not to scatter corrosion residue with the bristles. Finally wipe off with a cloth moistened with ammonia or a baking soda and water solution.

CAUTION; Keep cleaning solution out of battery cells to

(4) Inspect the cables. Replace damaged or frayed cables.

eliminate weakening the electrolyte.

(5) Inspect the terminal posts to see that they are not deformed nor broken. Clean the tapered battery terminals and the inside surfaces of the clamp terminals with the terminal cleaning tool, as shown in

Figures 1 and 2.

(6) Examine the battery case for cracks and the top of battery for raised cells. Inspect sealing compound for leaks. Reseal as necessary.

(9) If the electrolyte level is low, fill to the recommended level with mineral-free water.

2 . SPECIFIC G R A V I T Y TEST

A hydrometer is used to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery cells. This gives an indication of how much unused sulphuric acid remains in the solution.

Hydrometer floats are calibrated to indicate correctly only at one fixed temperature.

The specific gravity of the battery electrolyte varies not only with the quantity of acid in solution but also with temperature. Draw electrolyte in and out of the hydrometer barrel several times to bring the temperature of the hydrometer float to that of the acid in the cell and then measure the electrolyte temperature in the cell. The temperature correction amounts to .004 specific gravity points for each 10 degrees

Fahrenheit change in temperature.

Fig.

—Cleaning the inside of Cable Clamp Fig. 2—Cleaning the Outside of Battery Post

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BATTERY 8-11 charge the battery to a full charge, then proceed with the battery "Voltage Tests" and "Battery Capacity

Tests".

Fig.

3—High Rate Discharge Test

The liquid level of the battery cell should be at normal height and the electrolyte should be thoroughly mixed with any battery water which may have just been added by charging the battery before taking any hydrometer readings.

A fully charged battery has a specific gravity reading of 1.255 to 1.275 (all batteries for use in temperate climates).

If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, re-

3 . VOLTAGE TESTS ( O p e n C i r c u i t !

N O T E ; Freshly charged batteries may have a

"surface charge" which causes high and inaccurate readings unless properly dissipated. If battery is in the vehicle, turn the headlights on for one to three minutes to remove surface charge. Then turn lights off and wait several minutes before taking another reading.

To make a battery test, contact the meter prods

(Tool MT-379) to the proper cell terminals (red to positive, black to negative), using caution not to connect across more than one cell. The point of prod will have to be pushed through sealing compound to make contact with buried link for each cell reading.

The individual cells readings should not vary more than .05 volt between any two cells. A battery varying more than .05 volt between any two cells should be recharged and "high rate discharge tester" should be used to test the battery before discarding the battery as unsuitable for use.

CAUTION: Do not use an open flame near the battery.

4 .

HIGH RATE DISCHARGE TEST OF

BATTERY C A P A C I T Y

Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only when

60x838

Fig.

4— Three Minute Charge Test

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8-12 BATTERY battery equals or exceeds 1.220 specific gravity at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If reading is below 1.220, the battery should be slow charged until fully charged in order to secure proper test results.

(1) Turn the control knob of the battery starter tester to the OFF position.

(2) Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 16 volt position (test units so equipped). the 16 volt scale of the battery starter tester (on test units so equipped) and measure the total voltage of the battery posts while the battery is being fast charged. If the total voltage during the charge exceeds

15.5 volts, the battery is sulphated and should be cycled and slow-charged until specific gravity reaches

1.260 (See "Slowing Charging").

(3) Connect the test ammeter and voltmeter positive leads to the battery positive terminal and ammeter and voltmeter negative leads to the battery negative terminal (Fig. 3).

NOTE: The voltmeter clips must contact the battery posts or cable clamps and not the ammeter lead clips.

If the specific gravity remains constant after testing the battery at one hour intervals for three hours, the battery is at its highest state of charge.

(7) Make another capacity test. If the capacity test does not meet specifications, replace the battery.

NOTE: A slow charge is preferable to bring the battery up to a full charge.

(4) Turn the control knob clockwise until the ammeter reading is equal to three times the ampere hour rating of the battery.

(5) Maintain the load for 15 seconds, voltmeter should read 9.5 volts or more, which will indicate that the battery has good output capacity.

(6) Turn the control knob to the OFF position.

Safe slow charging rates are determined by allowing one ampere per positive plate per cell. The proper slow charging rate would be 5 amperes for a 59 ampere hour battery, or 6 amperes for a 70 ampere hour battery.

5 . C H A R G I N G THE BATTERY

If the voltage in "High Rate Discharge Test" was under 9.5 volt, the battery should be test charged to determine whether the battery can be satisfactorily charged. three Minute Charge Test (Fig. 4)

NOTE: This test should not be used if battery temperature is below 60 degrees F.

(1) Connect the positive (+) charger lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative (—) charger lead to the battery negative terminal.

IMPORTANT: Be sure of the correct polarity when charging the batteries.

Fast Charging the Battery (Fig. 5)

If adequate time for a slow charge is not available, a high rate (FAST) charge is permissible and will give a sufficient charge in one hour, enabling the battery and alternator to continue to carry the electrical load.

Connect the positive (+) battery charger lead to he battery positive terminal and the negative (—) battery charger lead to the battery negative terminal.

CAUTION: The battery can be damaged beyond repair unless the following precautions are taken:

(1) The battery electrolyte temperature must

NEVER exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

If this temperature is reached, the battery should be cooled by reducing the charging rate or remove the battery from the circuit.

(2) As the batteries approach full charge the electrolyte in each cell will begin to gas or bubble. Ex-

(2) Trip the charger power switch to the ON position. Turn the charger timer switch past "three minutes" then back to "three minutes".

(3) Adjust the charge switch to the highest possible rate not exceeding 40 amperes.

(4) When the timer switch cuts off at end of 3 minutes, turn the timer switch back to fast charge.

(5) Use the 4 volt scale of the battery starter tester voltmeter (on test units so equipped) and quickly measure the voltage across each cell while the battery is being fast charged. A faulty cell or cells will be detected by a cell voltage variation of more than

.1 volt.

(6) If the cell voltages are even within .1 volt, use Fig.

5 —Fast Charging the Battery

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BATTERY, 8 -13 eessive gassing must not be allowed.

(3) Do not fast charge longer than one hour.

U the battery does not show a significant change in the specific gravity after one hour of "FAST" charge, the slow charge method should be used.

NOTE: The manufacturers of high rate charging equipment generally outline the precautions and some models have thermostatic temperature limiting and time limiting controls.

WARNING: When batteries are being charged, an explosive gas mixture forms beneath the cover of each cell. Keep all sparks and open flames away from the battery.

Slow Charging Batteries ia

Remove Sulphation

To condition a battery that is sulphated, charge the battery for a minimum of 24 hours at a maximum charpng rate of (4) amperes. As the battery approaches full charge, test the specific gravity at hourly intervals. The battery is fully-charged when three successive hourly hydrometer readings show no rise in specific gravity. Remember to use the temperature correction when testing specific gravity. With no rise in specific gravity for three successive readings, the battery is charged to its peak capacity.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

BATTERY TESTING CHART

Hydrometer Test

(Corrected to 80° F.) State of Charge or Battery Condition

Less than 1.220 SP. GR. Battery low.

Correction

Cells show more than 25 points (.025 Specific

Gravity) variation.

Short circuit in low cell. Loss of electrolyte by leakage or excessive overcharge.

Improper addition of acid. Natural or premature failure. Cracked case.

Recharge the battery. Give high rate discharge test for capacity. If the cells test O.K., recharge and adjust the gravity of all cells uniformly. Test the voltage regulator setting.

Thoroughly test the electrical system for short circuits, loose connections, corroded terminals, etc.

Try to recharge the battery. See

"Charging the Battery". Test battery for capacity. Install a new battery if necessary.

Open Circuit Voltage Test State of Charge or Battery Condition

Cells showing more than

1.220 specific gravity.

Cells showing less than

1.220 specific gravity, but not more than .05 volts variation.

Satisfactory.

Questionable.

Cells showing more than

.05 volts variation.

Short circuit in low cell. Loss of electrolyte by leakage or excessive overcharge.

Improper addition of acid or "Dopes".

Natural or premature failure.

Cracked case.

Correction

No correction required if variation among cells is not over .05 volts. If variation is more than .05 volts, recharge. Give high rate discharge capacity test, if cells test O.K., adjust gravity of all cells uniformly.

Recharge battery. Give high rate discharge test for capacity. If cells test O.K., recharge. Test voltage regulator setting. Thoroughly test the electrical system for short circuits, loose connections, corroded terminals, etc.

Recharge battery. See "Charging the

Battery".

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8-14 BATTERY

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — C C o n t i n u e d )

BATTERY TESTING CHART

Correction Cranking Test Possible Cause

If the voltage drop is Poor contact between cable terminal and more than 0 .3

volts (3 /10) vehicle frame or between cable clamp between the starting terminal and battery post or starter switch motor cable and the contacts. Frayed, corroded or broken cable, vehicle frame while clanking look for:

Locate the high resistance: repair or replace as necessary.

While operating the starting motor, ignition:

" O F F " check the voltage of all cells. If the voltage varies more than

0.15 volt between cells, look for:

Faulty cell or cells. Compare voltage readings with hydrometer reading—low voltage is usually accompanied by low gravity.

Try to recharge the battery. See

"Charging the Battery".

SCREW

FRAME 61 X 18

Fig. 1—Starting Motor

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STARTING MOTOR—DIRECT DRIVE 8-1 5

PART 2 STARTING MOTOR (DIRECT DRIVE)

The Chrysler built starting motor (Fig. 1) is a 12volt, four coil assembly. The starter drive is an overrunning clutch type with a solenoid shift type switch mounted on the starting motor.

The brush holders are riveted to a separate brush plate and are not serviced individually. Brush replacement can be made by removing the commutator bearing end head.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. STARTING M O T O R CIRCUIT TESTS

Insulated Circuit Test

(1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity.

The specific gravity should be 1.220 or above.

If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to a full charge before proceeding with the test.

(2) Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 4 volt position.

(3) Disconnect the ignition coil secondary cable.

(4) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the batery positive post and the voltmeter negative lead to he solenoid connector which connects to the starter field coils.

NOTE: The voltmeter will read right until the starter is actuated.

(5)

off the scale to the

Connect the remote control starter switch to the battery and the solenoid terminal of the starter relay.

(6) Crank the engine with the remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .3

volt. A voltmeter reading of .3

volt or less indicates the voltage drop is normal in the cables, starter relay switch, solenoid switch and connections between the battery and the starting motor are normal. See "Starter

Ground Circuit Test".

If the voltmeter reading is more than .3

volt, it indicates high resistance in the starter insulated circuit. Make the following test to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss.

(7) Remove the voltmeter lead from the solenoid connector and connect to the following points, repeating the test at each connection. The starter terminal of the solenoid, battery terminal of the solenoid, battery cable terminal at the solenoid, starter

^elay and the cable clamp at the battery.

(8) A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite Change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery insulated cable .2 volt

Solenoid Switch .1 volt

Each connection .0 volt

Replace the faulty cables. Clean and tighten all connections.

Starter Ground Circuit Test

(1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to the battery negative post.

(2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .2 volt. A reading of .2 volt or less indicates voltage loss in the ground cable and connections are normal. If the voltmeter reading is more than .2 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in the starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeat the test at each connection.

(a) Starter drive housing.

(b) Cable terminal at the engine.

(c) Cable clamp at the battery.

A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery ground cable .2 volt

Engine ground circuit .1 volt

Each connection .0 volt

2 . S T A R T I N G M O T O R

R e m o v a l

(1) Disconnect the ground cable at the battery.

(2) Remove the starter cable at the starter.

(3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire from the solenoid.

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8-1

STARTING MOTOR—DIRECT DRIVE

(4) Remove the bolts attaching the starting motor to the flywheel housing and remove the starting motor and housing removable seal.

3 . TESTING THE STARTING M O T O R

(Bench Test)

F r e e Running Test

(1) Place the starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged, 12 volt battery to the starter.

(2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery positive post and the starter terminal.

(3) Connect the voltmeter (15 volt scale) across the starter.

(4) Rotate the carbon pile to the full-resistance position.

(5) Connect the battery cable from the battery negative post to the starter frame.

(6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts.

The current draw should be 78 amperes maximum at 3800 minimum rpm.

Fig. 3—field Ceil Leads Disconnected from the

Solenoid Connector

(2) Remove the thrust washers from the armature shaft.

(3) lift the brush holder springs and remove the brushes from the brush holders.

(4) Remove the brush plate (Fig. 2).

(5) Disconnect the field coil leads at the solenoid Stall Test

(1) Install the starting motor in the test bench.

(2) Folldw the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer and check the stall torque of the starter against the following specifications.

(3) With the applied battery voltage adjusted to

4 volts, the stail torque should Be 8.5 foot-pounds minimum with a current draw of 350 amperes.

4 , STARTER DISASSEMBLY ( F i g . 1 )

(1) Remove the througfi Holts and tap the commutator end head from the-field frame. Fig.

4— Removing the Starter Solenoid

Fig.

2— lemeving the Brush Ring Fig. S—Removing the Shifter Fork Pivot Pin

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STARTING MOTOR—DIRECT DRIVE 8-17 connector (Fig. 3).

(6) Remove the solenoid attaching screws and remove the solenoid and boot assembly (Fig. 4).

(7) Drive out the over-running clutch shift fork pivot pin (Fig. 5).

(8) Remove the drive end pinion housing and spacer washer.

(9) Note the position of the shifting fork on the starter and remove the shifter fork (Fig. 6).

(10) Slide the over-running clutch pinion gear toward the corrmutator end of the armature, drive the stop retainer toward the clutch pinion gear to expose the snap ring and remove the snap ring.

G R O U N D BRUSHES

TERMINAL

(11) Slide the over-running clutch drive from the armature shaft.

(12) If it is necessary to replace the field coils, remove the ground brushes terminal attaching screw and raise the brushes with the terminal and shunt wire up and away from the field frame (Fig. 7).

Remove the pole shoe screws with a special pole shoe impact screwdriver, Tool C-3475.

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing the Ground Brushes

5 . BRUSHES A N D S P R I N G S —

REPLACEMENT

Terminal

(1) The brushes that are worn more than

the length of the new brush, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced. The brushes and springs can be replaced after removing the commutator end head and the brush plate.

Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Do not immerse the parts in a cleaning solvent. Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with cloth only.

(2) Lift the brushes; disengage the brushes from the brush holders and remove the brush plate.

(2) Do not immerse the drive unit in a cleaning solvent. The drive clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash lubrication from the clutch.

(3) The drive unit may be cleaned with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth.

(3) Disconnect the field lead wires at the solenoid connector (Fig. 3).

(4) Remove the screw attaching the ground brush terminal to the field frame and raise the brushes and terminal up and away from the field frame (Fig. 7).

(5) Remove the field terminal plastic covering and remove the old brushes. Use side cutters to break the weld by rolling the brush wire off the terminal.

(6) -Drill a .174 to .184 inch hole, %

inch from the top of the field coil terminal. Use an

inch drill.

CAUTION: DO NOT damage the field coil during the drilling operation.

(7) Position the new brushes and terminal and install the brush terminal retaining screw.

(8) The brush springs can be removed by spreading the retainers and disengaging the springs from the retainer legs.

(9) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull the scale on a line parallel to the edge of the brush and

SPACER WASHER take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush. The spring tension should be 32 to 48 ounces.

Fig. 6 — Removing or Installing the Shifter Fork Replace the springs that do not meet specifications.

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8-18 STARTING MOTOR—DIRECT DRIVE

Fig. 10—Testing the Series Coil for Ground

Fig. a

—

Testing Armature for Short

TESTING THE ARMATURE

Testing the Armature for Short Circuit

Place the armature in the growler (Fig. 8) and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, white slowly rotating the armature in the growler. A shorted armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace a shorted armature.

Testing Armature for Ground

Touch the armature shaft and end of a commutator bar with a pair of test lamp test prods (Fig. 9). If the lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature.

Replace a grounded armature.

T e s t i n g Commutator Runout/

Refadng and Undercutting

Place the armature in a pair of "V" blocks and measure the runout with a dial indicator. Test both the shaft and the commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, the commutator should be refaced. Remove only sufficient metal to provide a smooth, even surface.

7. TESTING THE FIELD C O I L S

FOR G R O U N D

(1) Remove the through bolts and remove the commutator end frame.

(2) Remove the brushes from the brush holders and remove the brush ring (Fig. 2).

(3) Disconnect the field lead wires at the solenoid connector and separate the field leads to make sure they do not touch the solenoid connector (Fig. 3).

(4) Remove the ground brushes attaching screw and raise the brushes with the terminal and shunt wire up and away from the field frame (Fig. 7).

Fig. 9—Testing Armature for Ground Fig. 11—Testing the Shunt Coil for Ground

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STARTING MOTOR—DIRECT DRIVE 8-1 9

(5) Touch one probe of the test lamp to the series field coil lead and the other probe to the field frame

(Fig. 10). The lamp should not light.

(6) Touch one probe to the shunt field coil lead and the other probe to the field frame (Fig. 11).

If the lamp lights in either test steps (5) or (6), the field coils are grounded. If the field coils are grounded, test each coil separately after unsoldering the connector wires. Replace the grounded field coils. ly. Try the commutator end frame, the drive end frame, and armature support bushings for wear by placing them on shafts and inspecting for side play.

Replace the commutator end frame and bushing assembly if the bushing is worn. Also, replace the drive end bushing if it is worn. The bushing should be well soaked in SAE 30W engine oil before it is installed.

(7) Touch each of the brush holders with one test probe, while holding the other test probe against the brush ring. Two brush holders that are 180 degrees apart should cause the test lamp to light as they are intentionally grounded. The other two brush holders

(Fig. 12) should not cause the lamp to light when tested, as they are insulated. If the insulated brush holders cause the lamp to light when tested, it indicates that the brush holders on the brush ring are grounded. Replace the brush ring assembly if the brush holders are grounded.

8 . R E P L A C I N G THE FIELD COILS

A pole shoe impact screw driver Tool C-3475 should be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening. The pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause the armature core to rub the pole shoes. This will decrease the starter efficiency and damage the armature core.

S E R V I C I N G THE BRUSHES

Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces and bushings for wear by placing the armature core in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Do not squeeze tight-

Fig. 12—Testing the Insulated Brush Holder for Ground

1 0 . S E R V I C I N G THE DRIVE UNIT

Place the drive unit on the shaft and, while holding the armature, rotate the drive pinion. The drive pinion should rotate smoothly in one direction (not necessarily easily), but .should not rotate in the opposite direction. If the drive unit does not function properly, or the pinion is worn or burred, replace the drive unit.

1 1 . STARTER ASSEMBLY ( F i g . 1 )

(1) Lubricate the armature shaft and splines with

SAE 10W oil or SOW rust preventive oil.

(2) Install the starter drive, stop collar (retainer), the lock ring and the spacer washer.

(3) Install the shifter fork over the starter drive spring retainer washer with the narrow leg of fork toward commutator (Fig. 6). This is important, if the fork is not properly positioned, the starter gear travel will be restricted causing a lockup in the clutch mechanism.

(4) Install the drive end (pinion) housing on the armature shaft, indexing the shifting fork with the slot in the drive end of the housing.

(5) Install the shifter fork pivot pin (Fig. 5).

(6) Install the armature with the clutch drive, shifter fork, and pinion housing; slide the armature into the field frame until the pinion housing indexes with the slot in the field frame.

(7) Install the solenoid and boot assembly (Fig.

9). Tighten bolts 60 to 70 inch-pounds torque.

(8) Install the ground brushes (Fig. 7).

(9) Connect the field coil leads at the solenoid connector (Fig. 3).

(10) Install the brush holder ring (Fig. 2) indexing the tang of the ring in the hole of the field frame.

(11) Position the brushes in the brush holders. Be sure the field coil lead wires are properly enclosed behind the brush holder ring and that they do not interfere with the brush operation.

(12) Install the thrust washers on the commutator end of the armature shaft to obtain .010 inch minimum end play.

(13) Install the commutator end head.

MyMopar.com

8-20 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE inate all deflection in the solenoid when making the pinion clearance check (Fig.

13).

(2) Push in on the solenoid plunger link (Fig. 13)

(NOT THE FORK LEVER) until the plunger bottoms.

(3) Measure the clearance between the end of the pinion and pin stop with plunger seated and pinion pushed toward the commutator end. The clearance should be Vs inch. Adjust for proper clearance by loosening the solenoid attaching screws and move the solenoid fore and aft as required.

(4) Test the starter operation under a free running test.

Fig. 13 — Measuring the Starter Drive Pinion Clearance

(14) Install the through bolts and tighten 40 to 50 inch-pounds torque.

1 2 . A D J U S T I N G STARTER DRIVE GEAR

( P I N I O N ) CLEARANCE

(1) Place the starter assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and tighten the vise sufficiently to hold the starter.

NOTE: Place a wedge or screwdriver between the bottom of the solenoid and the starter frame to elim-

1 3 . STARTER INSTALLATION

(1) Before installing the starter, be sure the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil. These surfaces must be clean to make good electrical contact.

(2) Position the starter to the flywheel housing removable seal (on units so equipped).

(3) Install the starter from beneath the engine.

(4) Tighten the attaching bolts securely.

(5) Attach the wires to the solenoid switch and the starter terminal.

(6) Install the battery ground cable and test operation of the starter for proper engine cranking.

STARTING MOTOR (REDUCTION GEAR TYPE)

The reduction-gear starting motor has an armatureto-engine crankshaft ratio of 45 to 1: -a 3.5 to 1 reduction gear set is built into the motor assembly, which is housed in an aluminum die casting (Fig.

1). The starting motor utilizes a solenoid shift device. The housing of the solenoid is integral with the starting motor drive end housing.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. TESTING STARTER RESISTANCE A N D

CURRENT D R A W

(1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity.

Specific gravity should be 1.220 or above. If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to full charge before proceeding with the test.

(2) Disconnect the positive battery lead from the battery terminal post. Connect an 0 to 300 scale ammeter between the disconnected lead and the battery terminal post.

(3) Connect a test voltmeter with 10 volt scale division between the battery positive post and the starter switch terminal at the starter solenoid.

(4) Crank the engine and observe the readings on the voltmeter and ammeter. The voltage should not exceed .3 volt. A voltage reading that exceeds .3

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Fig.

1—

Starting Motor Cross Section

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8-22 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE volt indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connections, a faulty cable, burned starter relay or solenoid switch contacts. A high current reading combined with slow cranking speed, indicates that the starter should be removed and repaired.

(4) Rotate the carbon pile to a full-resistance position.

(5) Connect the battery cable from the battery negative post to the starter frame.

(6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts.

(7) The amperage draw should be as shown in the specifications.

2 .

STARTER G R O U N D CIRCUIT TEST

(1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to the battery negative post.

(2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .3 volt. A reading of .3 volt or less indicates voltage in the ground cable and connections is normal. If the voltmeter reading is more than .3 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in the starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeat the test at each connection.

(a) Starter drive housing.

(b) Cable terminal at the engine.

(c) Cable clamp at the battery.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery ground cable .2 volt

Engine ground circuit .1 volt

Each connection .0 volt

L o c k e d Resistance Test

(1) Install the starter in a test bench.

(2) Follow the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer and test the locked resistance of the starter against the following specifications.

(3) With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts, the amperage draw should be as shown in specifications.

Disassembly

(1) Place the gear housing of the starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use the vise as a support fixture only.

DO NOT clamp.

(2) Remove the two through bolts and the starter end head assembly.

(3) Carefully pull the armature up and out of the gear housing and the starter frame and field assembly. Remove the steel and fiber thrust washer.

NOTE: The wire of the shunt field coil is soldered to the brush terminal. One pair of brushes are connected to this terminal. The other pair of brushes is attached to the series field coils by means of

a terminal screw. Carefully pull the frame and field assembly up just enough to expose the terminal screw

3 . STARTING M O T O R

R e m o v a l -

(1) Disconnect the ground cable at battery.

(2) Remove the cable at the starter.

(3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire at the solenoid terminals.

(4) Remove the one stud nut and one bolt attaching the starter motor to the flywheel housing and remove the starting motor.

4* TESTING THE STARTING MOTOR

(Bench Test)

F r e e Running Test

(1) Place the starter in a vise and connect a fullycharged, 12 volt battery to the starter as follows:

(2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery positive post and the starter terminal.

(3) Connect a voltmeter (15 volt scale) across the starter. Fig. 2—Removing or Installing the Brush Terminal Screw

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STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE 8-23

Fig. 5—Unsoldering the Solenoid Lead

F i g .

3 —Unsoldering the Shunt Coil Lead Wire

NOTE: The brush holder plate with the brush terminal, contact and brushes is serviced as an assembly and the solder connection of the shunt field at the brush terminal. Place two wood blocks between the starter frame and starter gear housing (Fig. 2) to facilitate removal of the terminal screw and the unsoldering of the shunt field wire at the brush terminal.

(4) Support the brush terminal by placing a finger behind the terminal and remove the terminal screw

(Fig. 2).

(5) Unsolder the shunt field coil lead from the starter brush terminal (Fig. 3).

(6) Remove the brush insulator which prevents contact between the brush terminal and the gear housing (Fig. 4).

(7) Remove the sealer at the brush holder plate and gear housing.

(8) Remove the screw attaching the brush holder plate to the starter gear housing (Fig. 4).

(9) Unsolder the solenoid winding from the starter brush terminal (Fig.

5).

(10) Remove nut f>%

wrench), steel washer and insulating washer from the solenoid terminal (Fig.

6).

;

(11) Straighten the solenoid wire and remove the brush holder plate with brushes as an assembly.

(12) Remove the ground screw from the starter gear housing.

F i g . 4 — R e m o v i n g or Installing the Brush Holder

Plate Screw F i g .

6— Removing the Solenoid' Terminal Nut

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8-24 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

Fig,

—Solenoid Assembly Removed 6 2 x 2 0 6

(13) Remove the solenoid assembly from the gear housing well (Fig. 7).

(14) Remove the nut, steel washer and sealing washer from starter battery terminal.

(15) Remove the starter battery terminal from the holder plate.

(16) Remove the solenoid contact and plunger assembly from the solenoid.

(17) Remove the solenoid coil sleeve (Fig. 8).

(18) Remove the solenoid return spring from the well of the solenoid housing moving core.

(19) Remove the solenoid coil retainer washer and iscilenoid coil retainer from the solenoid housing (Fig.

9).

" '

(20) Remove the dust cover from the gear housing

(Fig. 10).

(21) Release the snap ring that positions the driven gear on the pinion shaft (Fig. 11.)

CAUTION: The ring is under tension and a cloth

Fig.

9— Identification of the Solenoid Coil Retainer and Retainer Washer should be placed over the ring to prevent the ring from springing away after removal.

(22) Release the retainer ring at the front of the pinion shaft (Fig. 12).

NOTE: Do not spread the retainer ring any greater than the outside diameter of the pinion shaft otherwise the lock ring can be damaged.

Fig. 10—Removing the Dust Cover

Fig. 11—Removing the Driven Gear Snap Ring

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STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION! GEAR TYPE 8-25

Fig. 14—Removing or Installing the Clutch Assembly

'Fig. 12—Removing or Installing the Pinion Shaft

Retainer Ring

(23) Push the pinion shaft towards the rear of the housing (Fig. 13) and remove the snap ring and thrust washers, clutch and pinion assembly, with the two shifter fork nylon actuators (Fig. 14).

(24) Eenibve the driven gear and friction washer.

(25) Pull the shifting fork forward and remove the solenoid moving core (Fig. 15).

(26) Remove the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig.

16) and remove the clutch shifting fork assembly.

NOTE: The gear housing is serviced with the pinion shaft and armature shaft bushings as an assembly.

Bushings can be replaced withTooi €-3944.

Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Do not immerse the parts in cleaning solvent.

Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with a clean cloth only.

Fig. is—Removing or Installing the Moving Core f i g . 13-—Removing the Pinion Shaft

Fig. 16—Removing or Installing the Shifting Fork Pin

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8-26 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

(2) Do not immerse the clutch unit in cleaning solvents The clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash the lubrication from the clutch.

(3) The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.

(4) Unsolder the solenoid lead wires from the solenoid terminal relay stud.

(5) Clean all corrosion from the solenoid assembly

(washers, sleeve and retainer and inside of the solenoid housing). These metal parts are part of the solenoid hold-in coil ground circuit and they must be clean.

(6) Clean the terminal contacts and contactor with crocus cloth.

(7) Thoroughly clean the outside area of the brush plate to remove all oil and dirt. shaft and the commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, the commutator should be refaced and undercut using Tool C-770. Remove only sufficient metal to provide a smooth, even surface.

Testing Field Coils for Ground

(1) Remove the field frame assembly from the starter.

(2) Carefullf drill out the rivet that attaches the series field coil (ground) lead and shunt field coil lead to the field frame.

(3) Insulate the field coil leads from the field frame.

(4) Test for ground using a 110 volt test lamp.

Touch one prod of test lamp to series field coil lead and other prod to the field frame. The lamp should not light. Repeat procedure for the shunt field coil.

If the lamp lights, it indicates that the field coils are grounded and require replacement.

5 . REPLACEMENT O F BRUSHES

A N D S P R I N G S

(1) Brushes that are worn more than

the length of new brushes, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced.

(2) When resoldering the shunt field and solenoid lead, make a strong, low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux. Da not use acid or acid core solder. Do not break the shunt field wire when removing and installing the brushes.

(3) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull the scale on a line parallel to the edge of the brush and take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush. The spring tension should be 32 to 48 ounces.

Replace the springs that do not meet specifications.

6. TESTING THE ARMATURE

Testing the Armature for Short Circuit

Place the armature in the growler and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it* while slowly rotating the armature in the growler. A shorted armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace any armature that is shorted.

REPLACING THE FIELD COILS

A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool 0-3475 should be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening. The pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause the armature core to rub the pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and damage the armature core.

NOTE; Make sure the area between the leads and the field frame is clean. Peen a new rivet securely to insure a good electrical contact.

8 . S E R V I C I N G THE BUSHINGS

Inspect the armature shaft bearing and pinion shaft surfaces and bushings for wear. Try the bushings for wear by placing them on shafts and testing for side play. Replace the commutator end head and bushing assembly if the bushing is worn. Replace the starter gear housing bushings if worn. Use Tool

C-3944 to replace the bushings.

Testing Armature for Ground

Contact the armature shaft and each of the commutator riser bars with a pair of test lamp test prods.

If the lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature.

Replace any grounded armature.

Testing Commutator Runout,

Refacing and Undercutting

Place the armature in pair of "V" blocks and measure the runout with a dial indicator; measure both the

9 . S E R V I C I N G THE STARTER

CLUTCH UNIT

Do not immerse the starter clutch unit in a cleaning solvent. The starter clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and the solvent will wash the lubrication from the clutch.

The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.

Rotate the pinion. The pinion gear should rotate smoothly in one direction, but should not rotate in the opposite direction. If the starter clutch ttnit does not function properly, or the pinion is worn, chippec or burred, replace the starter clutch unit.

B E A R I N G

H O U S I N G

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S P R I N G

C O N T A C T

S P R I N G

P L A T E

W A S H E R

N U T

W A S H E R

. 1 1 - * — N U T

S P R I N G

P O L E

SCREW FRAME

Fig. 17—Starting Motor (Disassembled View)

WASHER

W A S H E R B O L T

E N D H E A D

62x543A

MyMopar.com

8-28 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

Pig. i s«

—

Shifter Fork Assembly

Assembly (Fig. 17)

NOTE: The shifter fork consists of two spring steel plates assembled with two rivets (Fig. 18). There should be approximately 1/16 inch side movement, as shown in Figure 18 to insure proper pinion gear engagement. Lubricate between the plates sparingly with SAE 10 engine oil.

(1) Position the shifter fork in the drive housing and install the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig. 16).

One tip of pin should be straight, the other tip should b l bent at a 15 degree angle away from the housing.

Fork and retainer pin should operate freely after bending the tip of pin.

(2) Install the solenoid moving core and engage the shifting fork (Fig. 15).

(3) Enter the pinion shaft into the drive housing, ahd install the friction washer and driven gear.

(4) Install the clutch and pinion assembly (Fig.

14), thrust washer, retaining ring and the thrust washer.

(5) Complete the installation of the pinion shaft engaging the shifting fork with the clutch actuators.

Figure 19 shows the correct relation of the parts at the assembly.

N O T E : The friction washer must be positioned on the shoulder of the splines of the pinion shaft before the driven gear is positioned.

(6) Install the driven gear snap ring (Fig. 11).

(7) Install the pinion shaft retaining ring (Fig.

12). Make sure the ring fits tightly in the shaft groove.

(8) Bend the four (4) tangs of the coil retainer

"up" to a measurement of %

" to %

" above the surface of the retainer (Fig. 20) to insure higher compression and a more positive ground.

(9) Install the solenoid coil retainer (Fig. 9) (with tangs down).

N O T E : Space the retainer in the housing bore so that the four tangs rest on the ridge in the housing bore and not in 'the recesses.

(10) Install the solenoid coil retainer washer.

(11) Install the starter solenoid return spring into the bore of the movable core.

(12) Straighten the solenoid lead wires and install the solenoid contact seal over the wires, inserting the double wires of the terminal stud into the large hole

(Fig. 7) and the solenoid winding lead wire into the small hole.

(13) Insert the ends of the terminal stud wires into the groove of the terminal stud, crimp wires in place and solder with resin core solder.

NOTE: Inspect the condition of the starter solenoid switch contacting washer. If the top of washer is burned from arcing, disassemble the contact switch plunger assembly and reverse the washer.

(14) Install the solenoid contact plunger assembly into the solenoid and reform the double wires to allow for proper entry of the terminal stud into the brush holder with the double wires curved around the contactor, • n i l

Fig. 19

—

Shifter Fork and Clutch Arrangement

63x40

Fig.

20 —Measuring the Height of the Solenoid Coil

Retainer Tangs

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STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE 8 -29

62x203

Fig. 21—-Assembling the Solenoid to the

Brush Holder Plate

CAUTION; The contactor must not touch the double wires when the solenoid is energized after the assembly is completed (Fig. 7). Make sure the contact spring is positioned on the solenoid contact assembly.

(15) Assemble the battery terminal stud in the brush holder placing the sealing washer under the plain washer.

NOTE; Inspect the condition of the contacts in the brush holder plate. If the contacts are badly burned, replace the brush holder, brushes and contacts as an assembly.

(16) Enter the solenoid lead wire through the hole in the brush holder (Fig. 21) and install the solenoid stud, insulating washer, flat washer and nut.

NOTE; Use care when installing the solenoid contact seal over the tab on the brush plate to prevent tearing the seal.

(17) Solder the solenoid lead wire to the brush terminal post (Fig. 22). W p p the wire securely around the terminal, and solder securely with a high temperature solder and resin flux.

Fig. 23—Installing the Solenoid Coil, Sleeve and Brush Holder

(18) Carefully enter the solenoid coil and solenoid coil sleeve into the bore of the gear housing and position the brush plate assembly into the starter gear housing (Fig. 23). Align the tongue of the ground terminal with the notch in the brush holder.

(19) After the brush holder is bottomed in the housing, install the attaching screw (Fig. 4). Tighten the

Fig.

22— -Soldering the Solenoid Winding Lead Fig. 24

—

Positioning the Brushes with Tool Set C-385£

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8-30 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

(26) Position the starter end head assembly and install the starter frame screws and lockwashers.

Tighten the screws securely.

(27) Install the starter gear hdusing dust cover.

Make sure the dimples on the cover a r i securely engaged in the holes provided in the gear housing.

(28) Install the ground screw in the gear housing.

(29) Clean the area at the joint between the brush holder plate to field frame and gear housing mating joint. Apply a bead of brush plate sealer MoPar Part

No. 2421847 around the four sides of the joint (Fig.

27).

CAUTION; Sealer must be flowed continuously to avoid gaps.

After bead has been flowed on, use a brush or small paddle moistened in mineral spirits to press adhesive info joint. Be sure not to get the adhesive on the battery and/or solenoid terminals.

Fig. 25 — -Installing the Starter Armature screw 10 to 15 inch pounds. Install the flat insulating washer and hold in place with friction tape.

(20) Position the brushes with Tool C-3855, as shown in Figure 24.

(21) Position the field frame to the exact position and resolder the field coil lead (Fig. 3).

Installation

(1) Before installing the starting motor, make sure the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil to insure a good electrical contact.

(22) Install the brush terminal screw (Fig. 2).

(23) Install the armature thrust washer on the gear housing (Fig. 1) and enter the armature into the field frame and gear housing (Fig. 25); carefully engaging the splines of the shaft with the reduction gear.

(2) Position the starter to flywheel housing removable seal.

(3) Install the starting motor, washer and bolt and washer and nut.

NOTE: When tightening the attaching bolt and nut be sure to hold the starting motor pulled away from the engine to insure proper alignment.

(24) Remove the brush positioning Tools C-3855

(Fig. 26).

(25) Install the thrust washer (fibre) and washer

(steel) on the armature shaft.

(4) Attach the wire at the solenoid switch terminal and cable to starter terminal.

(5) Connect the battery ground cable and test the operatibh of the starting motor for proper engine cranking. f i g . 26—Removing the Brush Positioning Tools Fig. 27

—

Sealing the Brush Holder Plate

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Condition

Starter Fails to

Starter Fails and

Starter T u r n s , But

Pinion Does Not

Starter Relay Does

Not Close

STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE 8-31

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

STARTING M O T O R

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Weak battery.

(b) Ignition switch faulty.

(c) Loose or corroded battery cable terminals.

(a) Test for specific gravity End test for dead cell. Replace or recharge the battery as required.

(b) Test and replace the switch if necessary.

(c) Clean terminals and clamps, replace if necessary. Apply a light film of petrolatum to terminals.

Tighten clamps securely.

(d) Open circuit, wire between the ignition(d) Inspect and test all the wiring. starter switch and ignition terminal on the starter relay.

(e) Inoperative clutch unit. (e) Replace the clutch unit.

(f) Faulty starting motor.

(g) Armature shaft sheared.

(f) Test and repair.

(g) Test and repair.

(a) Weak battery.

(b) Loose or corroded battery cable terminals.

(c) Internal ground in wiring.

(d) Grounded starter fields.

(e) Armature rubbing on pole shoes.

(a) Starter clutch slipping.

(b) Broken teeth on flywheel drive gear.

(a) Test the specific gravity and test for dead cell. Replace or recharge the battery as required.

(b) Clean the terminals and clamps, replace if necessary. Apply a light film of petrolatum to the terminals. Tighten the clamps securely.

(c) Test and repair the starter.

(d) Test and repair the starter.

(e) Test and repair the starter.

(a) Replace the clutch unit.

(b) Replace the flywheel ring gear.

Also examine teeth on the starter clutch pinion gear. lack of lubrication.

(d) Wrong starter pinion clearance.

(a) Battery discharged.

(b) Faulty wiring.

(c) Neutral starter switch on automatic transmission faulty.

(d) Starter relay faulty.

(e) Ignition-starter switch faulty.

(d) Adjust pinion clearance.

(a) Recharge or replace the battery.

(b) Test for open circuit, wire between the starter relay ground terminal post and neutral starter switch

(automatic transmission only).

Also test for open circuit, wire between ignition-starter switch and ignition terminal and starter relay.

(c) Test and replace the switch if necessary.

(d) Test and replace if necessary.

(e) Test and replace switch if necessary.

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8-32 STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

STARTING M O T O R — t C o n t i n u e d )

Condition

Relay Operates B u t

Solenoid Does Not

Solenoid P l u n g e r

V i b r a t e s B a c k a n d

F o r t h W h e n S w i t c h is Engaged

S t a r t e r Operates

B u t W i l l Not

Disengage W h e n i g n i t i o n S t a r t e r is

Released

Possible C a u s e Correction

(a) Faulty wiring, open circuit wire between the starter-relay and solenoid terminal and solenoid terminal post.

(b) Faulty solenoid switch or connections.

(c) Solenoid switch contacts corroded.

(d) Broken lead or loose soldered connection inside solenoid switch cover

(brush holder plate).

(a) Test for open circuit wire between the starter-relay solenoid terminal and solenoid terminal post.

(b) Test for loose terminal connections between solenoid and starter field.

(c) Test and replace the solenoid if necessary.

(d) Test and replace the solenoid if necessary.

(a) Weak battery.

(b) Faulty wiring.

(c) Lead or connections broken inside solenoid switch cover (brush holder plate) or open hold-in winding

(d) Check for corrosion on solenoid contacts.

(a) Broken solenoid plunger spring or spring out of position.

(b) Faulty ignition-starter switch.

(a) Test the specific gravity of the battery. Replace or recharge the battery.

(b) Test for loose connections at relay, ignition-starter pwitch and solenoid. Repair as necessary.

(c) Test and replace the solenoid if necessary.

(d) Test and clean the contacts.

(a) Test and repair.

(b) Test and replace the switch if necessary.

(c) Solenoid contact switch plunger stuck plunger, wipe clean of all dirt, place a film of SAE 10 oil on the plunger, wipe off excess.

(d) Test and repair. (d) Insufficient clearance between winding leads to solenoid terminal and main contactor in solenoid.

(e) Faulty relay. (e) Test and replace the relay if necessary.

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR 8-33

PART 3 ALTERNATOR AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR

1. CONSTRUCTION A N D O P E R A T I O N

The alternator (Fig. 1) is fundamentally an A.C. current generator, with six (6) built-in silicon rectifiers, that convert the A.C. current into D.C. current.

D.C. current is available at the "output" "BAT" ter-

HEAT SINK GROUND BRUSH minal. A voltage regulator (Fig. 2) is used in the field circuit to limit the output voltage.

The main components of the alternator are the rotor, the stator, the rectifiers, the two end shields and the drive pulley (See Fig. 3). f i g . 1—Alternator Assembly

S P A C E R

Fig.

2— Voltage Regulator Installed

Fig. 3—Alternator (Disassembled View)

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8-34 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

2 . V O L T A G E REGULATOR

The only function of the regulator is to limit the output voltage.The voltage regulator accomplishes this by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil, and in effect controls the strength of the rotor magnetic field.

3 . TESTING THE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM

(On the Vehicle using the Sun Volt Ampere Tester

Model VAT -20C and Sun Battery Post Adapter)

NOTE: For the sake of uniformity, one type of equipment is shown. Follow the instructions of the equipment manufacturers on comparable equipment when making the following tests:

A. Preliminary

Checks

(1) Check Battery Condition.

Perform reliable battery tests to determine the condition and state of charge of the battery. If the battery is defective or not fully charged, install a fully charged battery for test purposes.

(2) Check Alternator Belt Tension and Condition.

Replace the alternator drive belt if necessary and riiake sure that there is adequate tension on the belt.

(3) Check Condition of Wires and their Connections.

Before performing the test on the system, correct any problem with the wiring, such as loose connections, burned wiring harness, etc.

Tester Controls and Switches

(1) Set Polarity Switch to the NEGATIVE position.

(2) Set tester control knob to the DIRECT position.

(3) Set voltage switch to the 2 VOLT position.

(4) Set field control to the OPEN position.

Fig. 4—Tester Lead Connections

64 x 472

Field Circuit Resistance Test (Fig. 5)

(1) Disconnect the slip-on connector from either end'of'the ignition ballast resistor.

(2) Turn the ignition switch on.

(3) With vehicle doors closed and all accessories turned off, observe the Voltmeter reading. The voltage should not exceed .55 volt. A reading in excess of .55 volt indicates high resistance in the field circuit between the battery and the voltage regulator field terminal.

(4) If high resistance is indicated, move the negative voltmeter lead to each connection along the circuit towards the battery. A sudden drop in voltage indicates a loose or corroded connection between that point and the last point tested. To test the terminals for tightness, attempt to move the terminal while

Tester Lead Connections (Fig. 4)

(1) Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery post and install the BATTERY POST

ADAPTER between the cable and post.

(2) Connect the "BAT" lead of the tester to the stud on the adapter.

(3) Connect the "REG" lead of the tester to the binding post on the adapter.

(4) Connect the "GRD" lead of the tester to a good ground on the vehicle.

(5) Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the field terminal of the regulator.

(6) Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the battery end of the positive battery cable.

NOTE: The Battery Post Adapter BY-PASS

SWITCH must be open for all charging system tests.

It is closed only for starting the engine.

LIGHT SWITCH DASH

64 x 473

Fig. 5—Field Circuit Resistance and Field Current

Drive Test

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR 8-35

BY-PASS

SWITCH

BAT.

LIGHT SWITCH DASH

1 AMMETER

(10) Open the BY-PASS switch of the Battery Post

Adapter.

— ^ O—x

-ALTERNATOR

^ A

IGN.

SWITCH

V " O N "

(11) Rotate the tester Control Knob to the LOAD position until the Voltmeter reads 6 volts.

(12) Rotate the tester Field Control to the DIRECT position and adjust the tester Control Knob until the

Voltmeter reads exactly 15 volts.

DISL

(13) Observe ammeter. Ammeter now indicates maximum output of alternator. The current output should be within the limits as shown in "Specifications".

Fig.

6—

Current Output Test

64 x 4 7 4

NOTE: The current output should be within 5 amperes of the rated output as there is a total of 5 amperes supplied by the alternator that will not appear on the test ammeter. This consists of V% ampere approximate for the instruments, \V% amperes for the engine ignition system, and 3 amperes for field current. observing the voltmeter^ Any movement of the meter pointer indicates looseness.

NOTE: Excessive resistance in the regulator wiring circuit will cause fluctuation in the ammeter, or a below normal charge rate.

field Current Draw Test (fig. 5)

With tester connections positioned as for the Field

Circuit Resistance Test, observe the test ammeter.

The test ammeter will indicate the field current draw.

Refer to "Specifications".

If the output is slightly less (5 to 7 amperes) than that specified above, it may be an indication of possible "open" rectifier or other alternator internal problem. If the output is considerable lower than that specified above, it may be an indication of a possible

"shorted" rectifier or other alternator internal problem. In either case the alternator should be removed and tested on the bench before disassembly.

(14) Return the tester Field Control to the OPEN position.

(15) Return tester Control Knob to the DIRECT position.

f. Current Output Test (fig. 6)

(1) With the ignition switch off, disconnect the field wire from " F I D " terminal of the alternator and at the regulator.

(2) Connect a special jumper from the "FLD" terminal of the alternator to one of the test leads of the tester field control

(3) Connect the other lead of the tester field control to the "BAT" terminal of the alternator.

(4) Set the Tester Voltage Switch to the 16 volt position.

(5) Connect the positive lead of the test Voltmeter to the "BAT" terminal of the alternator.

(6) Connect the negative lead of the test Voltmeter to a good ground.

0 ) Reconnect the slip-on connector at ignition ballast resistor,

(8) Close the BY-PASS switch of the Battery Post

Adapter.

(9) With thi tester Field Control in the OPEN position, start the engine and adjust to 1250 rpm.

G. Insulated Circuit Resistance Test

(fig.

(1) Connect the negative lead of Voltmeter to battery end of positive battery cable.

BAT.

LIGHT SWITCH DASH

AMMETER

ALTERNATOR

FLD., ,REG.

REG

IGN.

SWITCH

" O N "

BALLAST

RESISTOR

BY-PASS

SWITCH

BATTERY

STARTEI

DISL

64 x 475

Fig. 7—Insulated Circuit Resistance Test

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8-36 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

(2) Set Voltage Switch to 2 VOLT position.

(3) Adjust Field Control Unit until the tester ammeter reads exactly 10 amperes.

(4) Observe the Voltmeter reading. Voltmeter now indicates the amount of voltage loss across the insulated circuit. The voltage loss should not exceed .3 volt. If a higher voltage loss is indicated, inspect, clean and tighten all the connections in the charging circuit. A voltage loss test may be performed at each connection to locate the connection with excessive resistance.

LIGHT SWITCH DASH

If.

Ground Circuit Resistance Test (Fig. 8)

(1) Connect the positive lead of the test Voltmeter to the negative terminal of battery.

(2) Connect the negative lead of the test Voltmeter to a good ground on the alternator.

(3) With the alternator charging 10 amps, observe the Voltmeter reading. Voltmeter now indicates the amount of voltage loss across the ground circuit. The voltage loss should not exceed .3 volt.

(4) Rotate the tester Field Control to the OPEN position. f.

Voltage Regulator Test (Fig. 9)

NOTE: Ri^ulator temperatiir^ slibuld be normalized by operating wifh a 10 ampere load for 15 minutes just prior to testing.

Upper Contacts Test

(1) Remove test lead of tester Field Control from the "BAT" terminal of alternator and connect to the disconnected field wire from regulator.

(2) Set Voltage Switch to 16 VOLT position.

Fig. 9—Voltage Regulator Test

64 x 477

(3) Connect positive lead of Voltmeter to "BAT" terminal of alternator.

(4) Rotate tester Field Control to DIRECT position.

(5) With the engine operating at 1250 rpm, rotate the tester Control Knob clockwise until the Ammeter reads exactly 15 amperes.

(6) Rotate the tester Field Control from the

DIRECT position to the OPEN position and then back to the DIRECT position to cycle the system.

(7) Observe the test Voltmeter. The voltmeter now indicates the setting of the voltage regulator upper contacts. Refer to "Specifications".

(8) Rotate tester Control Knob to DIRECT position. If the regulator operates within specifications, proceed to the lower contact voltage test. If the upper contact voltage setting is not within specifications, remove the regulator cover and adjust the voltage setting as outlined in "Regulator Adjustments" test number (1). f i g .

8 —Ground Circuit Resistance Test

64 x 476

Lower Contact Test

(1) Increase the engine speed to 2200 rpm.

(2) Rotate the tester Control Knob to the % OHM position only if the tester Ammeter reads over 5 amperes.

(3) Rotate tester Field Control from DIRECT position to the OPEN position and then back to the

DIRECT position to cycle the system.

(4) Observe Voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of voltage regulator lower contacts. Refer to specifications.

Voltage should increase not less than .2 volt or more than .7 volt above the previous operating voltage setting recorded in the upper contact set. A

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR 8-37 voltage reading of less than .2 volt or more than .7 volt is an indication of a possible wrong air gap setting, refer to "Regulator Mechanical Adjustments".

(5) Rotate tester Field Control to OPEN position and Control Knob to DIRECT position.

Upon completion of the test, reduce engine speed to idle, stop engine, and disconnect all test leads and adaptors. Be sure that all vehicle's cables and wiring connections are secure before restarting engine.

CAUTION; Be sure the negative post of the battery is always connected to ground. Incorrect battery polarity may result in wiring harness damage and may damage the alternator rectifiers. Do not ground the alternator field circuit, as this may damage the regulator.

Adjusting the Voltage Setting to Driving

Conditions

The specifications called for in the voltage regulator chart indicate a tolerance of .6 volt from the low setting to the high setting at the temperatures indicated.

To maintain the battery in a full state of charge, the voltage regulator should be adjusted to provide the proper voltage limiting setting according to the customer's driving and load requirement habits as follows:

(1) Test the entire charging system and battery

(See "Battery" Part 1).

(2) If there are no defects in the charging system or in the battery and the battery was found to be in a low state of charge, increase the setting by .3 volt

(do not exceed specified voltage limits) and retest for an improved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two). If the battery state of charge has increased to a satisfactory level, do not change the voltage setting. If the battery shows evidence of over-charge—(low electrolyte level, high water consumption, excessive dampness on top of battery), decrease the setting by .3 volt and retest for an improved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two).

CAUTION: Always adjust the settings in steps not to exceed .3 volt at a time.

(Do not exceed specified voltage limits.)

(3) The proper setting of the voltage regulator is attained when the battery remains at least 1.225 specific gravity in the winter or 1.245 specified gravity in the summer, with a minimum water requirement

(not more than an ounce of water per e e l per one housand miles).

Regulator

Step 1

—

Mechanical Adjustments

Adjust the upper contact voltage setting

ARMATURE

CONTACTS

BENDING

TOOL

SPRING

I SPRING HANGER 61X233

Fig. 10—Adjusting Spring Tension as necessary by bending the regulator lower spring hanger down to increase voltage setting, up to decrease voltage setting. Use an insulated tool to bend the spring hanger (Fig. 10). The regulator must be installed, correctly connected, and retested after each adjustment of the lower spring hanger.

NOTE: If repeated readjustment is required, i t is permissible to use a jumper wire to ground the regulator base to the fender splash shield for testing, in lieu of reinstalling the regulator each time. However, i t is important that the regulator cover be reinstalled, the regulator connections correctly connected, and the regulator satisfactorily insulated by the fender cover to prevent grounding the regulator terminals or resistances. When testing, the regulator must be at the same attitude (or angle) as when installed on the vehicle. If step (1) under "Mechanical

Adjustments" does not bring the voltage regulator within specifications, proceed to Step (2) following:

Step 2 Measure the lower contact point making sure contacts are in alignment.

|ap.

The lower contact gap should be .014 inch plus or minus

.002 inch. Adjust the lower contact gap as necessary by bending the lower stationary contact bracket

If the lower contact gap is correct and the voltage regulator setting is still outside the .2 to .7 volt increase, adjust the air gap as follows:

(a) Connect a small dry cell test lamp in series with the "IGN" and "FLD" terminal of the voltage regulator.

(b) Insert an .048 inch wire gauge between the regulator armature and the core of the voltage coil next to the stop pin on the armature (Fig. 11).

(c) Press down on the armature (not on the contact reed) until the armature contacts the wire gauge.

The upper contacts should just open and the test lamp should be dim.

(d) Insert an .052 inch wire gauge between the

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8-38 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR cause a drop of solder from a soldering iron to fall on these parts. Allow the solder to cool sufficiently for the fuse wires to make a good solder joint.

(4) Pull the new fuse wire up enough to remove the slack and wrap it around the bracket. Solder the coiled wire to the bracket and cut off surplus fuse wire.

NOTE: The original fuse wire is machine wound on the upper bracket. The replacement fuse should be soldered to the bracket to ensure a good electrical contact. '•' •>v.

4 , ALTERNATOR

Fig.

-11—Checking Air Gap armature and the voltage coil core, next to the stop pin on the armature.

(e) Press down on the armature until it contacts the wire gauge. The upper contacts should remain cbsed and test lamp should remain bright.

If an adjustment is required to obtain the difference between the upper contact voltage and the lower contact voltage of .2

volt to .7

volt; adjust the air gap by loosening the stationary contact bracket screw and moving the bracket up or down as necessary to obtain the proper air gap setting as follows!

H the difference is above .7

volt, reduce the air gap to a minimum of .045

inch with the contacts open and the test lamp dim. At .048

inch the contacts should close and the test lamp should be bright.

If the difference is below .2

volt, increase the air gap to a maximum of .055

inch with the contacts closed and test lamp bright. At .052

inch contacts should be open and test lamp should be dim.

. . NOTE: Make sure the air gap is checked with the stationary contact bracket attaching screw fully tightened.

'Removal- -

If the alternator performance does not meet current output specification hmits, it must be removed and disassembled for further test and servicing.

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Disconnect the alternator output "BAT" field "FLD" leads and disconnect the ground wire.

(3) Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

5. BENCH TlSTS

F i e l d Coil Draw

and

If the alternator field coil draw has not been tested on the vehicle it may t>e tested on the test bench as follows:

(1) Connect the positive lead of a test ammeter to the positive terminal of a fully charged battery. Connect a jumper wire to the negative terminal of the battery, and ground it to the alternator end shield.

Connect the test ammeter negative lead to the field terminal of the alternator.

(2) Slowly rotate the alternator rotor by hand. Observe the ammeter reading. The field coil draw should be 2.3 amperes to 2 .7

amperes at 12 volts.

NOTE: A low rotor coil draw is an indication of high resistance in the field coil circuit (brushes, slip rings, or rotor coil).

higher rotor coil draw indicates a possible shorted coil or a grounded rotor.

Voltage Regulator Fusible Wire

Replacement

(1) Cut the fuse wire above the solder connection at the base and unwind the wire at the top bracket.

CAUTION: If an attempt is made to unsolder the old fuse, the very small wire from the voltage coil may be damaged.

(2) Tin the end of the fuse wire part number

2275242., Use resin core solder only. fmsting Alternator

inter'not Field

Circuit for a Ground

(1) To test the internal field circuit for a ground, remove the ground brush. Touch one test prod from a 110 volt test lamp to the alternator insulated brush terminal and the remaining test prod to the end shield. If the rotor assembly or insulated brush is not grounded, the lamp will not light.

(3) Holding the tinned end of the new fuse wire into the recessed rivet at the base of the regulator and against the old piece of fuse wire that remains,

(2) If the lamp lights, remove the insulated brush assembly (noting how the parts are assembled) and

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR 8-39

62x106'

Fig. 12-—Removing or Installing the Insulated Brush Fig. 14—Separating the Drive End Shield from the Stator separate the end shields by removing the three thru bolts.

(3) Again test by placing one of the test prods to a slip ring, and the remaining test prod to the end shield. If the lamp lights* the rotor assembly is grounded and requires replacement. If the lamp does not light after removing the insulated brush and separating the end shields the insulated brush is grounded.

(4) Examine the plastic insulator and the screw.

The screw is a special size and must not be substituted by another size.

(5) Install the insulated brush holder, terminal, insulated washer, shake proof washer and screw. If the parts were not assembled in this order or if the wrong screw was used, this could be the cause of the ground condition.

Disassembly

To prevent possible damage to the brush assemblies, they should be removed before proceeding with the disassembly of the alternator. The insulated brush is mounted in a plastic holder that positions the brush vertically against one of the slip rings.

(1) Remove the retaining scrfw lockwasher, insulated washer, and field terminal, and carefully lift the pjgitfc holder poptpniiig spring and brush assembly from the end housing (Fig. 12).

(2) The ground brush is positioned horizontally against the remaining slip ring and is retained in a holder that is integral with the end shield. Remove the retaining screw and lift the clip, spring and tpush assembly from the end shield (Fig. 18).

C A U T I O N : The stator is laminated, do not burr stator or t h e end shield.

(3) Remove the through bolts and pry between the stator and drive end shield with the blade of a screwdriver (Fig. 14). Carefully separate the drive end shield, pulley and rotor assembly away from the stator and the rectifier shield assembly.

Fig. 13—Removing or Installing the Ground Brush Fig. 15

—

Removing the Alternator Pulley

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8-40 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

Fig. 16 — Disengaging the Bearing Retainer from the

End Shield

Fig. 18—-Removing or Installing the Heat Sink Insulator

(4) The pulley is an interference fit on the rotor shaft. Remove the pulley with puller Tool 6-3615 or

C-3934 (Fig. 15).

(5) Pry the drive end bearing spring retainer from the end shield with a screwdriver (Fig. 16).

(6) Support the end shield and tap the rotor shaft with a plastic hammer to separate the rotor from the end shield.

NOTE: The new bearing is lubricated with a predetermined amount of special lubrication and does not require additional lubrication.

(7) The drive end ball bearing is an interference fit with the rotor shaft. Remove the bearing with puller Tool C-3615 or C-3934 and adapter as follows: of the adapters around the center screw.

(c) Hold the adapters and center screw in position with the tool sleeve.

CAUTION: The tool sleeve must bottom on the bearing, otherwise, the adapters may be damaged.

(d) Turning the center screw while holding the outer body of tool (Fig. 17) will withdraw the bearing from the rotor shaft.

(8) Remove the D.C. output terminal nuts and washers and remove the terminal screw and inside capacitor.

NOTE: The heat sink is also held in place by the terminal screw.

(a) Position the center screw of Tool C-3615 or

C-3934 on the rotor shaft.

(b) Place the thin lower end of the adapters under the bearing equally spaced and the upper end

(9) Remove the insulator (Fig. 18).

(10) The needle roller bearing in the rectifier end shield is a press fit. If it is necessary to remove the rectifier end frame needle bearing, protect the end shield by supporting the shield with Tool C*392i5

TOOL

Fig. 19 — Removing the Rectifier End Shield Bearing

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR 8-41 when pressing the bearing out with Tool C-3770 (Fig.

19).

NOTE: The new bearing is prelubricated and no additional lubricant should be added, as an excessive amount of lubricant will contaminate the slip rings and cause premature brush and rotor failures.

6 . TESTING THE RECTIFIERS

W I T H T O O L C - 3 8 2 9

Rectifier Tester Tool C-3829 provides a quick, simple and accurate method to test the alternator rectifiers without the necessity of disconnecting the soldered rectifier leads. With the alternator rectifier and end shield separated from the drive end housing proceed with the rectifier tests as follows:

Fig.

2Y —Testing the Negative Rectifiers (Typical) mately one ampere, and the two good rectifiers will read within the satisfactory range.

Positive Case Rectifier Test (Fig.

20)

(a) Place the alternator on an insulated surface.

Connect the test lead clip to the alternator ("BAT") output terminal.

(b) Plug in the Tool C-3829 power source lead into a 110 volt A.C. power supply. Touch the exposed metal connections of each of the positive case rectifiers with the test prod.

Negative Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 21)

(a) Connect the test lead clip to the rectifier end housing.

(b) Touch the exposed connection of each of the negative case rectifiers with the test prod.

The test specifications are the same, and the test results will be approximately the same as for the positive case rectifiers, except the meter will read on the opposite side of the scale. C A U T I O N : Do not break the sealing around the rectifier lead wire. The sealing material is for protection against corrosion. Always touch the test prod to the exposed metal connection nearest the rectifier.

TESTING THE RECTIFIERS A N D

STATOR ( W i t h o u t Tool C - 3 8 2 9 )

(a) Separate the three (3) stator leads at the " Y " connection (Fig. 22).

The reading for satisfactory rectifiers will be 1% amperes or more. The reading should be approximately the same for the three rectifiers.

When two rectifiers are good and one is shorted, the reading taken at the good rectifiers will be low, and the reading at the shorted rectifier will be zero.

Disconnect the lead to the rectifier reading zero and retest. The reading of the good rectifiers will now be within the satisfactory range.

When one rectifier is open it will read approxi-

NOTE: Cut the stator connections as close to the connecter as possible because they will have to be soldered together again.

If they are cut too short it may be difficult to get them together again far soldering.

Fig. 20—Testing the Positive Rectifiers (Typical) Fig.

22 —Separating the Three Stator Leads (Typical)

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8-42 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

Fig. 23—Testing the Rectifiers with Test Lamp (Typical)

Fig.

25 — Testing the Stator Windings for Continuity

(Typical)

(b) Test the rectifiers with a 12 volt battery and a test lamp equipped with a number 67 bulb (4 candle power) by connecting one side of test lamp to the positive battery post and the other side of the test lamp to a test probe. Connect another test probe to the negative battery post.

(c) Contact the outer case of the rectifier with one probe and the other probe to the wire in the center of the rectifier (See Fig. 23).

(d) Reverse the probes, moving one probe from the rectifier outer case to the rectifier wire, and the other probe from the rectifier wire to the rectifier outer case.

If the test lamp "lights" in one direction but does

"not light" in the other direction, the rectifier is satisfactory. If lamp lights in "both directions", the rectifier is "shorted". If the test lamp does "not light" in either direction, the rectifier is "open".

NOTE: Possible causes of an open or a blown

Fig.

24— -Testing the Stator for Grounds (Typical) rectifier is a faulty capacitor or a battery that has been installed in reverse polarity. If the battery is installed properly and the rectifiers are open, test the capacitor capacity .50

microfarad plus or minus 20%.

(e) Unsolder the rectifier leads from the stator leads.

(f) Test the stator for grounding using a 110 volt test lamp (Fig. 24). Use wood slats to insulate the stator from the rectifier shield. Contact one prod of the test lamp to the stator pole frame, and contact the other prod to each of the three stator leads. The test lamp should "not light". If the test lamp lights, the stator windings are "grounded".

(g) Test the stator winding for continuity, by contacting one prod of the test lamp to all three stator leads at the "Y" connection. Contact each of the three stator leads (disconnected from the rectifiers). The test lamp should "light" when the prod contacts each of the three leads. If the test lamp does not light the stator winding is "open" (See Fig. 25).

(h) Install a new stator if the one tested is "grounded" or "open", 'if the rectifiers must be replaced unsolder the rectifier wire at the soldered joint.

NOTE: Three rectifiers are pressed into the heat sink and three in the end shield. When removing the rectifiers, i t is necessary to support the end shield and/or heat sink to prevent damage to these castings.

(i) Place the rectifier support adapter in the platform of Tool C-3928 and the remover adapter into the end of the tool pressure screw.

(j) Place the clamp tool in a vise and support the end shield on the support adapter under the rectifier to be removed (Fig. 26).

NOTE: The support tool adapter is cut-away and slotted to fit over the wires and around the bosses in

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

8-43

Fig. 26— Removing a Rectifier the end shield.

Make sure that the completely surrounds the rectifier.

bore of the tool

(k) Carefully apply pressure with the tool pressure screw until the support tool rectifier end shield and remover pin are in alignment then press the rectifier out of the end shield.

8 .

R E P L A C I N G SLIP R I N G S

Slip rings that are damaged can be replaced as follows:

(1) Cut through the rotor grease retainer with a chisel and remove the retainer and insulator.

(2) Unsolder the field coil leads at the solder lugs

(Fig. 27).

(3) Cut through the copper of both slip rings at opposite points (180° apart) with a chisel (Fig. 28).

(4) Break the insulator and remove the old ring.

(5) Clean away dirt and particles of the old slip ring from the rotor.

(6) Scrape the ends of the field coil lead wires clean for good electrical contact.

(7) Scrape one end (about %

inch) of a piece of bare wire (approx. 18 gauge) three inches long (to be used as a guide wire).

(8) Tin the scraped area of the guide wire with resin core solder. Lap the tinned end of the wire over the field coil lead to the insulated ring and solder the two together.

(9) Position the new slip ring carefully over the guide wire and the rotor shaft so the wire will lay in the slip ring groove (Fig. 29). The groove in the slip ring must be in line with the insulated brush field lead to provide room for the lead without damaging it.

(10) Place installing Tool C-3900 over the rotor shaft with the guide wire protruding from the slot in the tool.

(11) Position the rotor, slip ring and tool assembly in an arbor press (Fig. 30). Pull upon the guide wire being careful to guide the insulated field lead into the slip ring groove. While guiding the insulated field lead through the groove, press the slip ring on the shaft. When the slip ring is bottomed on the rotor fan the end of the field lead should be visible at the solder lug (Fig. 27).

G R O U N D

BRUSH R I N G

S O L D E R L U G

S O L D E R WITH

R E S I N C O R E

S O L D E R

I N S U L A T E D

BRUSH R I N G

S O L D E R L U G

OLD SLIP RING

6 2 X 5 2 9

F i g . 2 7 — S o l d e r Points—Slip Ring Installed F i g . 21—Cutting the O l d Slip Rings

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8-44 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR f i g . 3 1 — Installing the Bearing Grease Retainer

Fig. 29—Aligning the Slip Ring with the Field Wire a n d Guide Wire

(12) Unsolder the guide wire from the insulated brush slip ring lead. Press the field lead into the solder lug and solder the lead to the lug with resin core solder.

CAUTION: Be sure the solder bead does not protrude beyond the surface of the plastic material.

Do not use acid core solder. A short circuit may result and corrosion will definitely occur.

(13) Coil the ground brush ring field lead around the solder lug (Fig. 27) and solder with resin core solder.

(14) Test the slip rings for ground with a 110 volt test lamp by touching one test prod to the rotor pole shoe and the remaining prod to the slip rings.

The test lamp should not light. If the lamp lights, the sHp rings are shorted to ground, possibly due to grounding the insulated field lead when installing the slip ring.

If the rotor is not grounded, lightly clean the slip ring surfaces with -00- sand paper and assemble tlie alternator.

(15) Position the new grease retainer insulator and grease retainer on the rotor shaft and press the retainer on the shaft with installer Tool C-3921 (Fig.

31). The retainer is properly positioned when the inner bore of the installed tool bottoms on the rotor shaft.

Assembling the Alternator

(1) Confirm the rectifier identification to make sure the correct rectifier is being installed. Refer to the

Fig. 30 — Installing the Slip Ring Fig.

32— Installing a Rectifier

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

8-45

Parts l i s t for rectifier identification.

(2) Support the heat sink or rectifier end shield on the installer adapter SP-3820 of Tool C-3928. Carefully apply pressure with the tool pressure screw until the installer tool, rectifier, rectifier end shield or heat sink are in alignment and after determining that the rectifier is started squarely in the casting, slowly apply pressure with the tool pressure screw until you feel the collar of the rectifier bottom against the casting (Fig. 32).

NOTE:

Make

sure

that the

installer support adapter fits squarely around

the

rectifier inner boss

and that pressure is applied on

the

outer rim of the rectifier.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE a hammer to start the rectifier into its bore in the end shield. DO NOT

HAMMER OR SHOCK the rectifier in any manner as this will fracture the thin silicon wafer in the rectifier causing complete rectifier failure.

(3) If the stator leads were disconnected at disassembly; clean the leads and mate the stator lead with the rectifier wire loop and bend the loop snugly around the stator lead to provide a good electrical and mechanical connection. Solder the wires with resin core solder. Hold the rectifier lead wire with pliers just below the joint while soldering (Fig. 33).

The pliers will absorb the heat from soldering and protect the rectifier.

NOTE: After soldering, quickly cool the soldered connection; touch a dampened cloth against it. This will aid in forming a solid joint.

(4) After soldering the stator leads must be pushed down into the slots that are cast into the end shield and cemented with MoPar Cement, Part Number

2299314 to protect the leads against possible interference with the rotor fans. Test each replacement rectifier to make certain the rectifier was not damaged by the soldering or pressing operations.

(5) Support the end shield on Tool C-3925 so that the notch in support tool will clear the raised section of the heat sink and press the bearing into position with Tool SP-3381 (Fig. 34).

NOTE: New bearings are pre-lubricated ditional lubrication is not required.

and ad-

(6) Insert the drive end bearing in the drive end shield and install the bearing retainer plate to hold the bearing in place.

(7) Position the bearing and drive end shield on the rotor shaft and, while supporting the base of the rotor shaft, press the bearing and shield into position on the rotor shaft with arbor press and Tool C-3769 (Fig.

35).

63 x 728

Fig. 34—Installing the Rectifier End Shield Bearing

CAUTION: Make sure that the bearing is installed squarely at installation; otherwise, damage to the bearing will result. Press the bearing on the rotor shaft until the bearing contacts the shoulder on the rotor shaft.

RECTIFIER LEAD

Fig. 33—Soldering the Rectifier and Stator Leads Fig. 35—Installing the Drive End Shield and Bearing

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8 -46 ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR

(12) Make sure the heat sink and insulator are in position and tighten the lock nut.

(13) Position the stator on the rectifier end shield.

(14) Position the rotor end shield assembly on the stator and rectifier end shield. Align the through bolt holes in the stator, rectifier end shield and drive end shield.

(15) Compress the stator and both end shields by hand and install the through bolts, washers and nuts.

(16) Install the insulated brush in the rectifier end. Place the bronze terminal on the plastic holder with the tab of the terminal in the recess in the plastic holder.

Fig, 36—Installing the Alternator Pulley

(8) Install the pulley on the rotor shaft. The shaft of the rotor must be supported in a manner so that all pressing force is on the pulley hub and motor shaft (Fig. 36).

NOTE: Do

not exceed

6800

pounds pressure. Press the pulley on the rotor shaft until the pulley contacts the inner race of the drive end bearing.

(9) The alternators have the capacitor mounted internally. Make sure the heat .sdiik ''insiil^fQir i§ in place (Fig. 18).

(10) Install the capacitor stud through the heat sink and end shield.

(11) Install the insulating washers, lockwashers and lock nuts.

(17) Place the nylon washer on the bronze terminal and install the lockwasher and attaching screws.

(18) Install the ground brush and attaching screw.

(19) Rotate the pulley slowly by hand to be sure that the rotor fans do not hit the rectifiers, capacitor lead, and stator connections.

(20) Install the alternator and adjust the drive belt.

(11) Couplet

ttie ptpiit *<BAT" and the field

"FLD" leads and connect the ground wire.

(22) Connect the battery ground cable.

(23) ptart an4 operate the engine, and observe the alternator operation.

(24) Test the current output and regulator voltage setting, if necessary.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

ALTERNATOR

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Alternator Fails to

Charge (No

Output)

(a) Blown fusible wire in voltage regulator.

(b) Alternator drive belt loose.

(c) Worn brushes and/or slip rings.

(d) Sticking brushes.

(e) Open field circuit.

(f) Open charging circuit.

(g) Open circuit in stator windings.

(h) Open rectifiers.

(a) Locate and correct the cause of the fuse blowing. Install a new fuse wire. Solder both ends of a new fusible wire securely.

(b) Adjust the drive belt according to

Specifications under Cooling Group 7.

(c) Install new brushes and/or rotor.

(d) Clean the slip rings and brush holders.

Install new brushes.

(e) Test all the field circuit connections, and correct as required.

(f) Inspect all connections in the charging circuit, and correct as required.

(g) Remove the alternator and disassemble.

Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary.

(h) Remove the alternator and disassemble.

Test the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers if necessary.

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ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR 8-47

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

ALTERNATOR

Possible Cause Correction Condition

L o w , Unsteady

C h a r g i n g R a t e

Excessive Charging

R a t e to a

Fully

C h a r g e d Battery

Regulator C o n t a c t s

Burned

Regulator Contacts

P o i n t s S t u c k

Noisy A l t e r n a t o r

(a) Alternator drive belt loose. (a) Adjust the alternator drive belt. See

Cooling Group 7.

(b) Clean and tighten the battery terminals. (b) High resistance at battery terminals.

(c) High resistance in the charging circuit.

(d) High resistance in the body to engine ground lead.

(e) Open stator winding.

(c) Test the charging circuit resistance.

Correct as required.

(d) Tighten the ground lead connections.

Install a new ground lead if necessary.

(e) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary.

(a) Regulator set too high. (a) Reset the voltage regulator according to

Specifications.

(b) Regulator contacts stuck. (b) Install a new voltage regulator.

(c) Regulator voltage winding open, (c) Install a new voltage regulator.

(d) Regulator base improperly (d) Correct the regulator base to the ground grounded. connection.

(a) High regulator setting.

(b) Shorted rotor field coil windings.

(a) Reset the voltage regulator according to specifications.

(b) Test the rotor field coil current flraw. If excessive install a new rotor.

(a) Poor ground connection between the alternator and the regulator. Open resistor element.

(a) Correct the ground connection. Install a new regulator. Test the regulator setting, and reset if necessary.

(a) Alternator mounting loose

(b) Worn or frayed drive belt.

(c) Worn bearings.

(d) Interference between the rotor fan and stator leads or rectifiers.

(e) Rotor or rotor fan damaged.

(f) Open or shorted rectifier.

(g) Open or shorted winding in the stator.

(a) Properly install and tighten the alternator mounting.

(b) Install a new drive belt and adjust.

See Cooling Group 7.

(c) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Install new bearings as required.

(d) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Correct the interference as required.

(e) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Install a new rotor.

(f) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Test the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers as required.

(g) Remove and disassemble the alternator.

Test the stator windings. Install a new stator if necessary.

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8-48 IGNITION SYSTEM

PART 4 IGNITION SYSTEM

The ignition system consists of two separate circuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distributor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and the primary wiring make up the low voltage primary circuit. The secondary high voltage circuit includes the coil secondary winding, the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plug cables, the spark plugs and the vehicle frame.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. S E C O N D A R Y CIRCUIT INSPECTION

The coil to distributor cap wire and the spark plug wires should make good, clean contact in the ignition coil, the distributor cap towers and on the spark plugs. Wires that are loose or that are not inserted all the way into the towers or on the plugs will corrode and increase the resistance as well as cause carbon tracking of the coil or cap towers. Make sure the cap nipplls and spark plug covers are in good condition and that they are tight on the cap towers and around the plug insulators.

NOTE: Jerking the wires to disconnect them from the plugs can stretch them and increase secondary resistance.

To remove the wire, grasp the boot at the end of the wire

and

rotate the boot slightly to break the adhesion between it

and

the spark plug insulator, then use a straight pull to remove the spark plug wire.

The rotor and distributor cap electrodes should be inspected for burning. Replace the rotor if the electrode is burned on the top or if the electrode is worn too short.

2 . DISTRIBUTION RESISTANCE TEST

This test indicates the resistance of the ignition primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil, through the points and the distributor ground. Excessive resistance in this portion of the ignition system will prevent the coil from producing sufficient output for good over-all ignition. To perform test, proceed as follows:

The ignition coil tower, if oily or dirty, should be wiped clean and inspected for cracks, carbon tracking or oil leaks. Replace the coil if faulty.

Inspect the distributor cap for oil film, dirt or metal particles on the inside surface. Any contamination, however slight, can become conductive and cause hard starting in wet weather. Thoroughly wash the cap in a weak solution of liquid soap or detergent in warm water. Do not use a concentrated solution or soak the cap in the solution. Scrub the inner surfaces with a stiff bristle nylon brush to clean between the ribs and the crevices. Rinse well in hot water, shake out excess water and dry thoroughly.

Do not use compressed air to dry or blow out the water. Carefully inspect for cracks or carbon tracking on the inner and outer sirfaces. Ileplace the cap if faulty.

The secondary cables, cap and rotor should sulation. Test the resistance of the sp^rk plug cables.

Replace the cable if resistance is more than 30,000 ohms or if the terminal has pulled off the cable.

be tested, using Tool € - 3 2 9 6 . ™ tester provides high voltage which is sufficient for testing secondary in-

(1) Turn the Selector Switch of a tach-dwell unit to the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell

Calibrator until the Dwell Meter reads on tiie set line (test leads separated).

(2) Leave the Selector Switch in the CALIBRATE position and connect the tach-dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and the black lead to a good ground.

(3) Turn the ignition switch "ON". Observe dwell meter reading. Meter pointer should be well within the black bar marked "DISTRIBUTOR RESIST-

ANCE". If reading is zero or outside of black bar, crank the engine with the starter until the meter pointer moves as far to right as possible (This will indicate that breaker points are closed). A reading now within the black indicates a normal distributor primary circuit.

If the reading is outside the black bar, high resistance is present in the distributor primary circuit.

(4) Remove the test lead from the distributor terminal of coil and connect to the following points:

(a) Distributor primary terminal (outside).

(b) Distributor primary terminal (inside).

(c) Breaker point terminal bracket (insulated bracket).

(d) Ground side of contact points.

(e) Distributor housing.

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IGNITION SYSTEM 8-49

(5) Repeat the test at each connection until a noticeable change occurs in the meter reading. If a poor connection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten or replace as necessary and repeat step (3).

If faulty contact points are indicated, remove distributor for complete inspection, service, testing and calibration.

3 .

IDLE RPM TEST

The engine idle rpm setting should be tested and recorded as it is when the vehicle is first brought into the shop for testing. This will assist in diagnosing complaints of engine stalling or complaints of creeping and hard shifting on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1) Turn the Selector Switch to the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell Calibrator until the

Dwell Meter reads on the SET line (test leads separated).

(2) Connect the red lead of the test unit to the distributor primary terminal at the coil and the black lead to a good ground.

(3) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position.

(4) Turn the tachometer rpm switch to the 1000 rpm position.

(5) With the engine at normal operating temperature (off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and release to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and that the idle speed screw is against its stop.

(6) Note engine rpm on 1000 rpm scale and adjust carburetor idle speed to specifications. See "Fuel

System" Group 14.

4 . DISTRIBUTOR P O I N T DWELL

The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of rotation through which the breaker contact points remain closed. This is also commonly referred to as

"dwell angle" or "cam angle".

The correct distributor point dwell is essential for good ignition performance and contact point life.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1) Connect the Tach-Dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.

(2) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position.

(3) Start the engine and operate at idle speed.

(4) Observe the dwell meter reading. If the dwell reading is within "Specifications", the point gap, cam rubbing block and breaker arm are all in satisfactory condition.

If the dwell reading is not within specifications, incorrect point gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or distorted breaker arm may be indicated.

5 . DUAL BREAKER POINTS

Block one set of contacts with a clean insulator and adjust the opposite set of contacts to specifications using the dwell meter.

NOTE: Loosen the stationary contact lock screw just enough, so that the stationary contact moved with a slight drag; otherwise it will de difficult to set the contact accurately.

When the one set of contacts has been adjusted for the correct clearance, tighten the stationary contact lock screw.

Block the adjusted set of contacts with an insulator and adjust the remaining set of contacts in the same manner as the first set. Remove insulator and recheck tightness of the stationary contact lock screw.

If the contacts have been properly adjusted, the dwell should be as specified for two contact sets.

6 .

DWELL V A R I A T I O N

This test indicates the mechanical condition of the distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical parts cause dwell variations which will affect ignition timing.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1) With the engine at idle speed, the vacuum hose disconnected, and with the test leads connected as in Paragraph, "Point Dwell Test", turn the Tachometer rpm Switch to the 5000 rpm position.

(2) Slowly increase the engine speed to 1500 rpm, then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing the dwell meter reading.

If the dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees from the initial reading between idle speed and 1500 rpm, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings or breaker plate bearing or pivot pin is indicated.

Remove distributor for complete inspection and testing on a distributor tester.

NOTE: Dwell variation at speeds above 1500 rpm does not necessarily indicate distributor wear.

IMPORTANT: Dwell and gap of the points must both be within their specified limits at the same time.

If this cannot be accomplished, i t is probable that wrong points are installed, the rubbing block or cam lobes are badly worn or contact arm is distorted.

7 . I G N I T I O N T I M I N G

can be

To obtain maximum engine performance, the dis-

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8-50 IGNITION SYSTEM tributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to give the proper ignition timing.

The ignition timing test will indicate the timing of the spark at No. 1 cylinder at idle (only).

When using low grade fuels, or after carbon has accumulated, objectionable spark ping may occur with the specified timing. In this case, ignition timing should be retarded, but not to exceed 5 degrees of

(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor.

(2) Connect the secondary lead of the Power Timing light to the No. 1 spark plug, red primary lead to positive terminal of the battery and the black primary lead to the negative battery terminal.

N O T E : Do not puncture the wires, boots or nippies with test probes. Always use adapters. Puncturing spark plug wires with a probe will damage the wires.

T h e probe can separate the conductor and cause high resistance. In addition, breaking the rubber insulation may permit secondary current to arc to ground.

(3) Start the engine and set the idle to specifications rpm, engine at normal operating temperature

(transmission in neutral).

(4) Using a timing light, observe the position of timing mark on the crankshaft damper and check against the specifications.

(5) Loosen the distributor hold down clamp screw and rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark on damper aligns with the specified

"BTC" mark on the timing plate. Moving the distributor "clockwise" advances the timing and "counterclockwise" retards the timing.

N O T E : At low altitudes, with any good grade of recommended gasoline, either "regular" or "premium", the engine will give its best performance if timed according to specifications.

At high altitudes or when using higher quality gasoline, for example, "premuim" where "regular" is specified or "super premium" where "premium" is specified, there is less tendency for spark ping. In such cases, improved performance may be obtained by advancing the spark not to exceed 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation ahead of specified timing.

Within the foregoing limits, namely, from 5 degrees ahead to 5 degrees later than specified timing, a good rule to follow is to advance the spark until a slight ping is heard when accelerating to 15 mph in direct drive at wide open throttle, with a hot engine.

(6) Tighten the distributor hold down clamp screw after the timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing light.

(7) When the ignition timing is correct, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor.

N O T E : A s the engine speed is increased, the timing mark should move down on the vibration dampener below the pointer if advance units are functioning.

8 .

DISTRIBUTOR

Removal

(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor.

(2) Disconnect the primary lead wire at the coil.

(3) Unfasten the distributor cap retaining clips and

PULL WIRE fig.

1 —'Shaft and Byshirag Wear T e s t

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IGNITION SYSTEM 8-51

Fig.

2— Distributor (Disassembled View) Chrysler Built

8*52 IGNITION SYSTEM

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CAP

Fig 3—Distributor (Disassembled View) (Prestolite)

(High Performance and Police Engines Only)

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IGNITION SYSTEM 8-53 lift off the distributor cap.

(4) Scribe a mark on the edge of the distributor housing to indicate the position of the rotor as reference when reinstalling the distributor.

(5) Remove the distributor hold-down clamp screw and the clamp.

(6) Carefully lift the distributor from the engine.

Shaft and Bushing Wear Test

(1) Remove the distributor rotor.

(2) Clamp the ribbed section of the distributor housing lightly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and attach the dial indicator to the body of the distributor with the indicator plunger arm resting against the moveable breaker arm with the rubbing block of the breaker arm on the highest point of the cam lobe (Fig. 1).

(3) Place one end of a wire loop around the top of the distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other end of the wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of the indicator gauge. Be sure the wire loop on the shaft end is down on the shaft to insure a straight pull and also that the wire loop does not interfere with the indicator or holding bracket. Apply a five pound pull and read the movement of the plunger on the indicator dial. (Be sure the rubbing block of breaker arm is on the highest point of the cam lobe during this test.) If the plunger movement exceeds .006 inch, replace the bushings and/or distributor shaft, see "Distributor Disassembly".

Figj.

4 —Removing the Distributor Com Felt Wick

If the side play exceeds .006 inch in the "Shaft and

Bushing Wear Test", replace the bushings and/or distributor shaft as follows:

(a) Remove the distributor drive collar retaining pin and slide the collar off the end of the shaft.

(b) Use a fine file to clean the burrs from around the pin hole in the shaft and remove the lower thrust washer.

(c) Push the shaft up and remove it through the top of the distributor body. Remove the upper thrust washer.

(d) Remove the shaft oiler and lift out the oiler wick. Disassembly (Figs. 2 and 31

(1) Remove the distributor rotor.

NOTE: The distributor cap clamp springs on

Chrysler built distributors are held in place by peened metal around the openings and should not be removed.

(2) Remove the retainer attaching the vacuum advance unit to the breaker plate advance arm.

(3) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the vacuum advance unit to the distributor housing and remove the unit.

(4) Remove the primary lead wire and rubber grommet as an assembly. Push the grommet towards the inside of distributor to remove. Do not pull on the wire.

(5) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the breaker plate to the housing and lift out the breaker plate, points and condenser as an assembly.

(6) Remove the oil wick from the distributor cam

(Fig. 4). Remove the spring clip from the oil well in the cam and remove the cam and yoke assembly and spacer.

CAUTION: On Chrysler Built distributors, do not drive the bushings out of the housing.

(e) Remove the upper bushing with Tool C-3744

(Fig. 5) by threading the tap securely into the bush-

Fig.

5 —Removing the Distributor Housing

Upper l u s h i n g

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8 -54 IGNITION SYSTEM

PRESS RAM

T O O L

(BURNISHER)

PRESS RAM

UPPER BUSHING

61x149

Fig.

6 —Installing the Distributor Housing Upper Bushing

Fig.

8 —Burnishing the Distributor Housing Bushings ing. Place the spacer over the tap. Install the tool nut and while holding the tap, tighten the tool nut to remove the bushing. Invert the housing and remove the lower bushing in the same manner.

On Prestolite built distributors, place the housing in an arbor press and press out the upper and lower bushings from the bottom of the housing using driver

Tool C-3041.

(f) Soak the new bushings in light engine oil for approximately 15 minutes.

(g) Position the new upper bushing with the hole in the bushing up and in line with the oil hole in the housing, then press the bushing into the distributor housing with Tool C-3041 and adapter (Fig. 6).

The bushing wiU measure .094 inch below the top of the housing bore for Prestolite distributors. For the Chrysler built distributors use Tool C-3041 with the flat face of adapter contacting the bushing then press the bushing into the distributor until top of

61x150

Fig.

7 —installing the Distributor Housing Lower Bushing bushing is 1.613 inches from top machined face of distributor housing. Place a straight-edge on machined surface of housing and measure from the bottom face of the straight-edge to the top of the bushing.

Invert the housing and install the other bushing (Fig.

7) flush with the face of the distributor base.

(h) Insert a %

inch brass rod through the housing oiler hole to see if the hole in the bushing indexes with the oiler hole in the housing. If the rod cannot be Inserted through the housing and the bushing, drill a -W hole through the upper bushing by drilling through the oil wick hole. Remove burrs caused by the drilling operation.

(i) Install the burnishing tool part of C-3041 Tool set and force the burnisher through both the bushings

(Fig. 8). The correct bushing inside the diameter is

.04995 to .5000 inch.

Assembly

(1) Test the operation of the centrifugal weight and inspect the weight springs for distortion. Lubricate the governor weights.

(2) Inspect all the bearing surfaces and pivot pins for roughness, binding or excessive looseness.

(3) Install the cam spacer, chamfered end down on the distributor shaft.

(4) Slide the cam and yoke on the distributor shaft, engage the weight lugs with the slots in the yoke. Install the cam retaining spring clip. Be sure it is properly seated in the groove of the distributor shaft.

(5) Lubricate and install the two concave upper thrust washers for Prestolite distributors or a single flat thrust washer for Chrysler-built distributer^.

Position the washers on the distributor shaft and slide the shaft into the distributor body. Position the

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IGNITION SYSTEM 8-55 lower thrust washer and drive the collar on the lower end of the shaft. Install the retainer pin.

(6) Install the oiler wick and oiler.

(7) Install the breaker plate assembly. Align the condenser lead, breaker point spring, primary lead and install the attaching screws.

(8) Install the felt wick in the top of the distributor cam.

(9) Attach the vacuum advance unit arm to the breaker plate and install the retainer. Install the vacuum unit attaching screws and washers.

(10) Test the breaker arm spring tension, and adjust the contact gap.

(11) Lubricate the felt pad in the top of the distributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of light engine oil and install the rotor.

Fig. 10—Adjusting the Contact Point Clearance w i t h a

Dial Indicator

9 . TESTING BREAKER A R M

S P R I N G T E N S I O N

(1) Hook a spring scale Tool MTU-36 on the breaker arm and pull in a straight line at right angles to the point surfaces (Fig. 9). Take a reading as the points start to separate under the slow and steady pull of the scale. The spring tension should be as shown in "Specifications". If the reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of the breaker arm spring, and slide the end of the spring in or out, as necessary.

(2) Tighten the screw and measure the spring tension.

NOTE: Spring tension that is too great, will cause excessive wear on the distributor cam and on the nylon block of the movable breaker arm. Spring tension that is too weak, is unable to keep the points in contact with each other when they close. This is particularly true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring.

1 0 . I N S T A L L I N G A N D A L I G N I N G

C O N T A C T P O I N T S

(1) Remove the old contact points and install a new set. f

BREAKER A R M

NOTE: Touching the contact point faces with fingers during installation will cause burning of points during operation.

(2) Align the contacts to obtain contact in the center of the points, by bending the stationary contact bracket only.

Never bend the movable arm to obtain alignment.

(3) After aligning the contact points, readjust the point clearance to specifications using a dial indicator

(Fig. 10).

(4) Test the dwell angle to show proper degree of closure. See Paragraph "Distributor Point Dwell".

The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that the stationary bracket can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set the points accurately. After setting the points to correct the gap, tighten the lock screw.

1 1 . DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION

(1) Add 3 to 5 drops of SAE 10W oil to the oiler on the outside of distributor base.

(2) Lubricate the felt pad under the rotor in the top of the distributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of SAE

10W oil.

(3) Wipe all old grease from surface of the breaker cam. Apply a light film of new distributor cam lubricant number 1473595.

DO NOT over-lubricate. Excess grease will be thrown from the distributor cam when the engine is running. If this grease strikes the breaker points arcing and burning of the points will result.

Fig. 9—Testing the Breaker Arm Spring Tension

1 2 . TESTING DISTRIBUTOR A D V A N C E

Centrifugal Advance Curve

Note the model number of the distributor and

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8-56 IGNITION SYSTEM refer to the specifications before making this test.

Mount the distributor assembly (less cap and rotor) in a reliable-stroboscope-type distributor tester and proceed with tests as follows:

NOTE: Clamp around the rib section of the distributor housing. The bottom section of the distributor housing is not a machined surface and concentricity would be affected, causing a wobble.

(1) Turn the Tach-Dwell switch to the 8 "LOBE" position and the motor switch to the correct direction of rotation. Refer to "Distributor Advance Specifications".

(2) Turn the battery switch "ON".

(3) Regulate the tester speed control to operate the distributor at 200 distributor rpm.

(4) Hold the distributor breaker plate in the full retard position and align the "0" of the distributor tester degree ring with any one of the arrow flashes.

(5) Regulate the tester speed control to operate the distributor at speeds called for tinder "Specificatiohs" and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.

(6) K the advance Is not according to specifications, corrections can be made by bending the primary and secondary spring tabs, to increase or decrease the spring tension. The governor spring tabs can be reached through the access hole at the breaker plate. Rotate the shaft until the proper spring and tab lines up with the access holes. Insert a screwdriver blade through the access hole and bend the spring tab toward the distributor cam to decrease spring tension and advance the park, or away from the distributor cam to increase the spring tension and retard the spark.

NOTE: The light tension spring controls the lower end of the advance curve, and the heavier spring controls the upper end of the advance curve.

Vacuum Diaphragm leakiest

With the distributor mounted in the distributor tester and with the vacuum unit attached to the distributor, proceed as follows:

(1) Place the thumb over the end of the vacuum pump hose and adjust the regulator control knob to give a reading 20 inches with hose closed off to be sure tester hose does not Mak.

(2) Attach the vacuum pump hose to the tube on the vacuum unit. The vacuum gauge should hold on maximum vacuum obtainable if no leaks exist.

(3) Observe the breaker plate while performing the leak test to test response of the breaker plate.

There should be instant response to the pull of the diaphragm, moving the plate without a drag or bind.

(4) If leakage is indicated, replace the vacuum unit assembly.

V a c u u m Advance Curve

Connect the tester vacuum pump hose to the distributor vacuum advance unit and perform operations 1 through 5 under "Centrifugal Advance

Curve". Then proceed as follows:

(1) Turn the tester vacuum pump "ON". Adjust the vacuum pump regulator to vacuum test specifications. See "Specifications" and observe the arrow flashes on the tester degree ring to determine the degrees of advance.

(2) If the vacuum advance is above or below specifications, replace the vacuum advance unit. Retest the vacuum advance curve.

Installation (On the Engine)

(1) Position the distributor on the engine. Align the rotor with marks previously scribed on the distributor housing.

(2) Engage the tongue of the distributor shaft with the slot in the distributor and oil pump drive gear.

NOTE: If the engine has been cranked while the distributor is removed, i t will be necessary to establish the proper relationship between the distributor shaft and the No. 1 piston position as follows:

(a) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top of the compression stroke.

..(h) Rotate the rotor to the position of the number one distributor cap terminal.

(c) Lower the distributor into the opening, connect the primary lead and install the distributor cap.

Make sure all high tension wires "snap" firmly in the cap towers. Install the distributor hold-down clamp screw. Tighten the screw finger tight.

(3) Connect the secondary lead of a Power Timing light to the No. 1 spark: plug.

Do Not puncture the cable cap nipples or spark plug covers with a sharp tool to make contact. Use proper adapters.

Connect the red primary lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the black primary lead to the negative battery terminal

(4) With the distributor vacuum hose disconnected, start and operate the engine at 475-500 rpm. Rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark and the pointer are in alignment (Moving the distributor housing "clockwise" advances the timing and "counter-clockwise" retards the timing.

(5) Tighten the distributor clamp screw after the timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.

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IGNITION SYSTEM 8-57

(6) If the timing is correct, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor and remove the timing light from the engine.

1 3 . S P A R K P L U G S

Cleaning and Inspection

Remove the spark plugs. Examine the firing ends of the plugs for evidence of oil fouling, gas fouling, burned or overheating conditions. Clean and reset the gaps to .035 inch.

NOTE: Before setting the spark plug gap, file center electrode flat. Make adjustment by bending the ground side electrode; never bend the center electrode.

Inspect the spark plug cables, coil secondary cable, nipples and cup for cracks, wear and fraying. Inspect for loose terminals. When installing spark plugs, tighten to 30 foot pounds torque.

1 4 . I G N I T I O N COIL

The ignition coil is designed to operate with an external ballast resistor.

The ballast resistor is a fixed resistance in the ignition primary circuit. During low speed operation, when the primary circuit current flow is high, the ballast resistor temperature rises, increasing the resistance. This reduces the current flow, thereby prolonging ignition point life. At high speed operation, when the primary current flow is low, the ballast resistance cools off allowing more current flow, which is required for high speed operation.

During starter operation, the ballast resistor is bypassed, allowing full battery voltage to the ignition primary circuit.

When testing the coil for output, include the resistor in tests. Inspect the coil for external leaks and arcing. Always make two tests when checking the coil. One when coil is cold, the other after the coil has been warmed up.

Test the coil according to the coil tester Manufacturer's instructions. Test the coil primary resistance. Test the ballast resistor resistance. Test the coil secondary resistance. Replace any coil and ballast resistor that does not meet specifications.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

I G N I T I O N SYSTEM

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Burned or Pitted

Distributor Points

(a) Dirt or oil on points.

(b) Alternator voltage regulator setting too high.

(c) Points misaligned or gap too small.

(d) Faulty coil.

(e) Ballast resistor not in circuit.

(f) Wrong condenser or faulty condenser.

(g) Faulty ignition switch.

(h) Bushings or distributor shaft worn.

(i) Touching of points with hands during installation.

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

(f)

(g)

(h)

(i)

If the oil is on contact face, determine the cause and correct the condition. Clean the distributor cam of all dirt and grease, apply a light film of distributor cam lubricant Number 1473595 to cam lobes; wipe off the excess. Replace the point set and adjust as necessary.

Test the alternator voltage regulator setting, adjust as necessary.

Replace and adjust the distributor contact points.

Align and adjust points.

Test and replace coil if necessary.

Replace and adjust contact points.

Inspect conditions, and correctly connect the coil.

Test the condenser and replace if necessary. Replace and adjust points.

Replace the ignition switch.

Recondition the distributor.

Replace and adjust the contacts.

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8-58 IGNITION SYSTEM

Condition

Ignition Coil

Failure

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

I G N I T I O N SYSTEM

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Alternator voltage regulator setting too high.

(b) Coil damaged by excessive heat from engine.

(c) Coil case or tower cracked.

(d) Oil leak at tower.

(a) Test the alternator voltage regulator setting and adjust as necessary. Inspect the condition

(b) of the distributor contact points.

Replace coil. Inspect the condition of the distributor contact points.

(c) Replace the coil.

(d) Replace the coil.

(e) Wipe the tower clean. Test the coil, replace if necessary.

Condenser Failure (a) Normal fatigue. (a) Test and replace the condenser.

Inspect distributor contact points for pitting.

(b) Damaged by excessive engine heat or (b) Test and replace the condenser. moisture. Inspect distributor contact points for pitting.

(a) Carburetor mixture over-rich.

(b) Improper gap adjustment.

(a) Adjust the carburetor. Refer to

Group 14 "Fuel System".

(b) Set the spark plug gap to .035 inch.

(c) Install the correct plugs.

(c) Improper plug heat range.

(a) Plugs loose or too tight in the cylinder (a) Replace the spark plugs: Install head. new gaskets. Tighten spark plugs to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(b) Carburetor mixture too lean. (b) Adjust the carburetor. Refer to

Group 14 "Fuel System".

(c) Improper plug heat range.

(d) Improper ignition timing.

(c) Install the correct plugs.

(d) Adjust the ignition timing.

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LIGHTING SYSTEM 8-59

1. DUAL HEADLAMPS

The dual headlamp system consists of four sealed beam headlamps.

The two outer lamps are of the two filament type for low and high beam and are marked by a numeral 2 moulded in the lamp lens.

The two inner lamps have only one filament and are marked with a numeral 1 molded in the glass.

The lamps cannot be installed wrong as the mounting lugs for the number one (1) and the number two

(2) lamps are offset at different angles.

The number one (1) lamp provides the high intensity "reach" down the highway and the off focus filament in the number 2 lamp provides the "body" light which illumintes the side of the road, ditches, etc.

2 . A I M I N G THE HEADLAMPS

LIGHTING

r s

SYSTEM

Pre-Aiming Instructions

(1) Test the dimmer switch for faulty operation.

(2) Test the high beam indicator: Indicates that high beam is in operation when lighted.

(3) For badly rusted or defective headlamp assemblies: These conditions must be corrected before a satisfactory adjustment can be made.

(4) Place the vehicle on a level floor.

(5) Measure the front suspension height: Adjust to specifications as necessary.

(6) Inspect the tire inflation.

(7) Rock the vehicle sideways to allow the vehicle to assume its normal position.

(8) If the gasoline tank is not full, place a weight in the trunk of vehicle to simulate the weight of the gasoline normally carried in the tank (6V4 pounds per gallon).

(9) There should be no other load in the vehicle other than the driver or a substituted weight of approximately 150 pounds placed in the driver's position.

(10) Remove the headlamp front trim panel. Do not remove the seal beam retainer rims.

(11) Thoroughly clean the headlamp lenses.

Compensating the Aimers

(1) Place the transit on the floor in line with a vertical center line of the right front wheel (Fig. 1),

Place the split image target in like position at the right rear wheel.

(2) Adjust the range screw on the transit until the target split image coincoides or merges into one unbroken line.

NOTE: Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the transit and that target image is centered in the viewing port of the transit.

(3) Turn the dial on the side of the transit until the bubble in the spirit level is centered.

(4) When the bubble is centered, note "plus" or

"minus" reading on the compensator scale. This figure indicates the degree of slope of the floor and must be transferred to each aimer as follows:

(5) With a screw driver, turn the adjusting slot of the floor level compensator in each aimer, until the correct plus or minus figure (or fractional part) appears in the proper window (Fig. 2).

Fig. 1—Determining the Slope of the Floor

Fig.

2 —Adjusting the Floor Level Compensator in the

Aimers

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8 -60 LIGHTING SYSTEM

3 . TESTING HEADLAMP A I M

Follow the instructions as outlined in Paragraph 2

"Aiming the Headlamps" and proceed as follows:

NOTE: Do not remove the headlamp rims.

HORIZONTAL ADJUSTMENT SCREWS

Horizontal Test

Turn the RIGHT L E F T scale knob until the split images is in alignment. If the RIGHT or L E F T portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lamps should be aimed.

NOTE: Values given represent inches at 25 feet.

Fig.

3 —Mounting and Adjusting the Aimers

Mounting a n d Adjusting the Aimers

(Fig. 3)

the aimers are suspected of being out of adjustment refer to Paragraph 2 "Aiming the Headlamps."

(1) While holding an aimer in alignment with the lens of oiie outer headlamp, bring the aimer up to and against the headlamp lens.

NOTE: Make certain that the headlamp lens pads are making full contact with the aimer mounting flange and that the aimer target is facing inboard.

(2) Push the release lever forward (to expel air from the suction cup) and while holding the aimer firmly against the headlamp aiming pads, pull the release lever back until the spring lock engages in the slot.

(3)

Mount the second aimer on the other outer headlamp, in the same manner.

(4) On each aimer, set the pointer to the numeral

2 on the DOWN side of the DOWN UP scale.

(5) On each aimer position the pointer of the

RIGHT L E F T scale at 2 RIGHT.

RIGHT L E F T

No. 1 UNIT 4 4

No. 2 UNIT 4 0

VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT SCREWS

Vertical Test

Turn DOWN -UP scale knob until the spirit level is centered. If DOWN or UP portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lamps should be aimed.

DOWN U P

No. 1 UNIT

No. 2 UNIT

4 . A D J U S T I N G THE HEADLAMPS

(Figyr® 4 )

Horizontal Adjustment

(1) With the pointer of the RIGHT-LEFT scale still set at ZERO, sight through the aimer viewing port.

N O T E : Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewitfg port of the aimer and that the target image is centered in the viewing port of the aimer.

(2) While sighting through the viewing port of the aimer, turn the horizontal adjusting screw (Fig. 4) on the headlamp until the split image target line merges into one unbroken line.

N O T E : To remove the backlash, be sure to make a final adjustment by turning the headlamp horizontal adjusting screw in a clockwise direction.

(3)

Make the horizontal adjustment on the other outboard headlamp in the same manner.

(4) Remove the aimers, from the outboard headlamps, by releasing the spring lock at the (bottom) of the aimer and pushing the release lever forward.

NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the aimers by pulling them away from the headlamp lens—slide the suction cup downward and away from the lens.

Fig.

4— Headlamp Adjustment Points

Vertical Adjustment

(1) Turn the vertical adjusting screw on the head-

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LIGHTING SYSTEM 8-61 lamp in a counter-clockwise direction to bring the bubble of the spirit level on the aimer to the vehicle side of center. Use care to avoid disturbing the installed position of the aimers. Then turn the screw clockwise until the bubble is centered for correct aim gnd elimination of backlash.

(2) Make the vertical adjustment on the other outer unit in the same manner.

(3) Recheck the target alignment on each side and readjust the horizontal aim, i f necessary.

Proceed toadjust the inner units by following the instructions as outlined for the outer headlamps. Install the headlamp trim panels, when the adjustments have been performed.

Testing and Adjusting Aimer Calibration

(Fig.

5)

(1) Using a carpenter or stone mason level of known accuracy, locate a true vertical plate glass window or smooth surface.

(2) Set the DOWN-UP pointer on DOWN 2.

(3> Set the RIGHT -LEFT pointer and floor level compensator at "0".

(4) Secure the aimers to the glass or smooth surface three to five feet apart so that the split image targets can be located in the viewing ports.

(5) If the bubble is centered in the vial, the vertical calibration is correct. If the bubble is not centered, make the down-up adjustment by rotating level adjusting screw until the bubble is centered in the spirit level.

(S) The horizontal aim is correct if the targets on opposite aimers are aligned in the viewing ports.

I f the targets are not aligned in the viewing ports, rotate the mirror adjusting screw until the target split image becomes aligned.

Fag. 5

—Suspecting the Aimer for Calibration

5. HEADLAMP SEALED-BEAM

REPLACEMENT

Lens, filament and reflector are sealed into one unit which can be removed as follows: .

(1) Remove the screws from the headlamp panel and remove the panel.

(2) Remove the screw from the interior retaining ring, and remove the ring.

NOTE: Do not disturb

the headlamp

aiming screws.

(3) Pull out the sealed-beam unit and disconnect the connector, pulling it straight off.

(4) Install the new sealed-beam unit.

(5) Install the unit retaining ring and headlamp panel.

NOTE: Each lamp in the dual headlamp assembly can be removed in the above manner.

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8-62 LIGHTING SYSTEM

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

HEADLAMPS

Condition Possible C a u s e Correction

Headlamps Dim (engine (a) Partly discharged battery. idling or shut off)

(a) Charge the battery.

0>)

Faulty cells in the battery. (b) Replace the battery.

(c) High resistance in the headlamp (c) Check headlamp circuit Including circuit. ground connection. Make necessary

(d) Faulty sealed beam unite. repairs. .

-' - * •

(d) Replace sealed beam units.

Headlamps Dim (engine (a) High resistance in the running above idle) hfeadlainp circuit.

(b) Faulty sealed beam units.

(c) Faulty voltage control unit.

(a) Test headlamp circuit including ground connection. Make necessary repairs.

0>) Replace the sealed beam units.

(c) Test voltage control and alternator.

Make necessary repairs.

Headlamps Flicker (a) Loose connections or damaged (a) Tighten connections and inspect for wires in the headlamp circuit. damaged wiring.

(b) Light wiring insulation damaged producing

.(b)

Test light wiring and replace or tape damaged wires. momenta^- short.

Headlamps Burn Out

Frequently

(a) High voltage regulator setting.

(b) Loose connections in the headlamp circuit.

Headlamps Will Not Light (a) Discharged battery.

(b) Loose connections in the headlamp circuit.

(c) Burned out lamps.

(d) Open or corroded contacts in the headlamp switch.

(e) Open or corroded contact in the dimmer switch.

(a) Adjust voltage regulator.

(b) Inspect circuit for loose connections.

(a) Recharge battery and correct cause.

-(b)

Tighten connections.

'(c) Replace bulbs or sealed beam unit.

(d) Replace the headlamp switch.

(e) Replace the dimmer switch.

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INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES 8-63

PART 6 INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS

INSTRUMENTS

The instruments and gauges are contained in the instrument cluster on the instrument panel in front of the driver.

The cluster contains the speedometer, fuel, temperature, ammeter (alternator), and oil gauges. Chrysler models use an oil warning lamp rather than an oil gauge. The clock (if so equipped) is contained in the instrument cluster.

The gauges in the cluster are the thermal type and operate on a principle of constant voltage being applied.

Models or to the printed circuit ground strap on Imperial Models.

Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the battery negative post. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the " I " terminal of the guel gauge. A reading of 12 volts should be shown on the voltmeter.

Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the "A" terminal of the fuel gauge. A fluctuating reading between 0 and 7 volts should be shown on the voltmeter. The same fluctuating reading should be shown at the "S" terminal of the fuel gauge. Any other readings indicate the voltage limiter is not functioning properly and the fuel gauge should be replaced.

1. V O L T A G E LIMITER

The constant voltage is provided through the use of a voltage limiter contained inside the fuel gauge case.

The constant voltage is connected in parallel to the gauges and provides the same regulated voltage to the gauges.

The terminals on the fuel gauge are marked as follows:

"A"—is the output terminal for the controlled voltage from the limiter.

"I"—is the 12 volt input voltage terminal to the voltage limiter.

"S"—is the terminal for the connection to the sending unit.

The gauges (related to the thermal system) that do not contain the limiter will have only the controlled voltage terminal and the terminal for the connection to the sending unit.

2 . FUEL LEVEL INDICATING SYSTEM

( F i g . 1 )

Turning the key on connects the system to the battery or charging system voltage. The voltage from the battery or charging system is regulated by a constant voltage limiter to a constant voltage of approximately 5 volts D.C.

When the fuel level is low or empty, the resistance is increased which decreases the current flow and consequently positions the panel gauge pointer to low or empty.

When the tank is full, the float level is at the top, the minimum resistance is in the circuit and the flow of current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge pointer will be moved across the dial to indicate a full tank.

Tank Unit

A float arm is hinged to allow the float to raise or testing theVoltoge Limiter in the Vehkle

A quick test to determine if the voltage limiter is operating is to fonnect one lead of a voltmeter or test lamp to thfe temperature striding unit idiid the other lead to a good ground (leave the sending unit lead wirfe attached to tiie lending unit). Tufii the ignition switch to the "on" position. A fluctuating voltmeter or flashing lamp ihdicates the voltage Uriiiter is operating.

12 VOLT INPUT

5 VOLT O U T

TO G A U G E S

/FUEL TANK FUEL G A U G E

..FUEL TANK S E N D I N G UNIT

Testing the Voltage Limiter—Instrument

Cluster Removed

Connect k jumper wire from the positive post df a

12 volt battery to the I terminal of the fuel gauge.

Connect another jumper wire from the battery negative post to the fuel gauge case (ground) on Chrysler o -

A i

FROM S E N D I N G U N l t

-BULKHEAD C O N N E C T O R

( O N DASH PANEL)

6 4 x 4 1 7

Fig.

1— 'Fuel Level Indicating System

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8-64 INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES lower dependent on the fuel level. The float connects to a variable resistance that provides a change in the resistance with any up or down motion of the float through a wiping contact in the gauge body.

TO BATTERY

POSITIVE ( + )

Testing Fuel

}

Level Indicating System in-the

Vehicle

Kaise the vehicle on a lift. Disconnect the terminal from tank unit. Attach one lead of the Gauge Tester

(Tool C-3826) to the disconnected terminal. Connect the other lead of the tester to a good ground.

With the ignition switch turned oh and the gauge tester in the

< I

, ?

position, the fuel gauge should show

" E " or minus %

inch. This tolerance permits a small reserve of fuel at the " E " position.

With the gauge tester ih the "M" position, the fuel gauge should slowly advance to the

¥1

position, plus or minus %

inch. With the gauge tester in the "H" position the fuel gauge should advance to " F " position, plus or minus %

inch-

The instrument cluster should be removed for further tests. See "Instrument Cluster" Paragraphs 6 and7 f

Testing Fuel Gauge—'Instrument Cluster

Removed (Figs. 2 and 3)

Place the instrument cluster (Chrysler models) or the printed circuit assembly (Imperial models) on a padded service bench to protect the assembly.

To prevent a possible error that might result in burning out the gauges the following test procedures must be closely followed.

CAUTiOif: A direct connection battery to the gauges will burn them

from a

out.

12 volt

(1) Connect a jumper wire to the voltage limiter input terminal on the fuel gauge. Connect the other

TO BATTERY

NEGATIVE

H TERMINAL

(GROUND)

TO CLUSTER BASE 64x655

Fig. 3—Testing Fuel G a u g e with Tool C-3826 (Chrysler) end of the jumper wire to the positive (+) post of a

12 volt test battery.

(2) Connect a jumper wire from the negative (—) post of the battery to the instrument cluster base

(Chrysler models) or to the printed circuit ground strap (Imperial models).

(3) Connect one lead of Gauge Tester C-3826 to the fuel gauge "S" terminal.

(4) Connect the remaining lead of the gauge tester to the instrument cluster base (Chrysler models) or to the printed circuit ground strap (Imperial models).

With the gauge tester in the " L " position the fuel gauge should show " E " or minus %

inch.

The minus tolerance provides a small fuel reserve when the fuel gauge is on the " E " position.

With the gauge tester in the "M" position the fuel gauge should advance slowly to the

position. With the gauge tester in the "H" position the fuel gauge should slowly advance to the " F " position plus or minus %

inch. If the fuel gauge does not perform as above replace the gauge.

TO BATTERY POSITIVE (+) POST

64x652

TO PRINTED / / TO BATTERY

CIRCUIT GROUND STRAP POSITIVE (+) POST

Fig. 2—Testing Fuel G a u g e with Tool C - 3 8 2 6 (Imperial)

3 . TEMPERATURE INDICATING SYSTEM

( F i g . 4 )

The operation of the temperature indicating system is identical in operation with the fuel system with the exception of the method of varying the resistance of the sending unit. In this system the resistance varies in direct relation to the temperature of the coolant.

Any change in the coolant temperature causes a like change in the resistor incorporated in the Ingine sending unit.

When the engine is cold the resistance of the disc in the temperature sending unit is high and a low temperature will be indicated.

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INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES

TEMPERATURE G A U G E

" S " TERMINAL

T O BATTERY POSITIVE .

(+) POST

8-65

5 VOLT INPUT-

(FROM VOLTAGE LIMITER

OR FUEL G A U G E )

TEMPERATURE S E N D I N G

UNIT ( O N ENGINE)

TEMPERATURE G A U G E

-BULKHEAD C O N N E C T O R

( O N DASH PANEL)

BATTERY

NEGATIVE

TO PRINTED CIRCUIT GROUND STRAP H POST 64x653

Fig. 5—Testing Temperature Gauge Tool €-3826

(Imperial) p|g s

—Temperature Indicating System

6 4 x 4 1 9

As the engine temperature increases the resistance of the temperature sending unit disc starts to decrease. A resultant increase in the current flow will occur causing the gauge pointer to indicate the increase in engine temperature.

Testing Temperature Indicating System in the Vehicle

Disconnect the terminal from the temperature sending unit on the engine. Connect one test lead of

Tester C-3826 to the terminal and the other test lead to a good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on the " L " position and turn the ignition switch to "on". The temperature gauge should show

"C" plus or minus Vs inch. Thermal gauges are slow in operation.

Allow timef or gauge to heat up.

Place the pointer on the tester on the "M" position and the temperatur-e gauge should advance to the driving range of

position of the dial. Place the pointer of the tester in the "H" position and the gauge should advance to the "H" position of the dial.

Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but not operate when the terminal is attached to the sending unit, indications are of a defective sending unit and it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to respond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, defective printed circuit board or defective gauge^. The instrument cluster should be removed for further tests. See "Instrument Cluster" paragraphs 6 and 7. should show V% of the operating scale of the dial.

With the gauge tester on the "H" position, the temperature gauge should show "H". If the gauge does not respond to the above tests test for. an open printed circuit or replace the temperature gauge.

4 . O I L PRESSURE G A U G E — I M P E R I A L

( F i g . 7 )

Disconnect the terminal and wire from the oil pressure sending unit on the engine. Connect one test lead of Tester Tool C-3826 to the removed terminal the other test lead to a good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on the " L " position and turn the ignition switch to "on". The oil pressure gauge should show " L " plus or minus Vs inch. Thermal gauges are slow in operation. Allow time for gauge to heat up.

Place the pointer on the tester on the "M" position and the oil pressure gauge should advance to the

"H" position of the dial.

V2 position of the dial. Place the pointer of the tester in the "H' position and the gauge should advance to the

Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but not operate when the wire and terminal are attached to the sending unit, it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to respond to the above tests indications

TO BATTERY

POSITIVE ( + )

U , /

T O BATTERY

NEGATIVE

Testing Temperature Gauge—Instrument

Cluster Removed (Figs.

5 and 6)

The temperature gauge is tested in the same manner as the fuel gauge with the exception that Tester

Tool C-3826 is connected to the temperature gauge

"S" terminal.

With the gauge tester on " L " position, the temperature gauge should show "C" or cold. With the gauge tester on "M" position, the temperature gauge

TO CLUSTER BASE (GROUND)

TO " S " TERMINAL

O F G A U G E

63x636A

Fig.

6 —Testing Temperature Gauge Tool C-3826

(Chrysler)

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8-66 INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES

OIL GAUGE " S " TERMINAL TO BATTERY POSITIVE (+). POST

When the engine oil pressure is low, the switch is in the "ON" or "CLOSED" position allowing current to flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instrument panel. This causes the warning lamp to be illuminated.

6 . INSTRUMENT C L U S T E R — I M P E R I A L

The instrument cluster is not serviced as an assembly. The cluster contains three separate main

PRINTED CIRCUIT G R O U N D STRAP STRAP 64x654

Fig.

—Testing Oil Gauge Tool C -3826 (Imperial)

(1) Speedometer are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or defective gauge. The instrument cluster should be removed for further tests. See "Instrument Cluster",

Paragraphs 6 and 7.

(2) Printed Circuit Assembly

(3) Clock

When servicing the cluster, it is necessary to remove only the group containing the desired instrument or gauge.

Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit

The sending unit, mounted on the engine, operates on a principle of varying engine oil pressure causing a resistance change in the sending unit.

When the engine oil pressure is high th¥ resistance of the sending unit is low allowing a higher current to flow to the instrument panel gauge. This causes an indication of high oil pressure on the gauge.

When the engine oil pressure is low the resistance of the sending unit is high allowing a lower current to flow to the instrument panel gauge. This causes an indication of low oil pressure on the instrument panel gauge.

5 . O I L PRESSURE W A R N I N G L A M P -

CHRYSLER

To test the oil pressure warning light, remove the terminal from the oil pressure sending unit. Connect one lead of the gauge tester to the terminal arid the other test lead to a good ground.

With the ignition switch in the "on" position and the gauge tester in the " L " position, the indicator light should not light. With the gauge tester in thei

"M" position, the indicator light should show a dull glow. With the gauge tester in the "H" position, the indicator light should show full brilliance.

Should the oil pressure warning light fail to respond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or burned out lamp. l o w OH Pressure Warning Switch

The operation of the oil pressure warning switch, mounted on the engine, is dependent on variances in the engine oil pressure.

When the engine oil pressure is high (normal operating condition of the engine) the switch is held in the "OFF" or "OPEN" position allowing no current to flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instrument panel.

Removal

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery negative cable before servicing the instrument cluster.

(1) Remove the screws that attach the instrument cluster chrome bezel to the instrument cluster. Remove the bezel.

(2) Remove the trip odometer and clock reset knobs and the temperature control level knob.

(3) Carefully remove the lens from the cluster.

NOTE: As the lens is removed take note of the small circular spacer around the trip odometer reset knob. This spacer must be installed before the lens is installed when the service operation on the instrument cluster is completed.

(4) Remove the screws that attach the cluster face plate to the cluster. Remove the face plate.

(5) Remove the desired main group of the cluster as follows:

Speedometer—Disconnect the speedometer cable from under the instrument panel. Remove the four screws that attach the speedometer to the cluster. Remove the speedometer.

Printed Circuit Assembly—Remove the screws that attach the printed circuit assembly to the instrument cluster. Pull the assembly forward slightly and disconnect the printed circuit multi-connector. Remove the assembly for service of the fuel, oil, temperature or ammeter gauges.

Clock—Remove the screws that attach the clock /tb the instrument cluster. Pull the clock forward and disconnect the feed wire to the clock. Remove the clock.

Installation

(1) Position the cluster assembly that has been

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INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES 8-67 serviced into the instrument cluster. For the printed circuit assembly, connect the printed circuit multiconnector; for the clock connect the clock feed wire; and for the speedometer connect the cable. Install the assembly attaching screws.

(2) Position the cluster face plate in the cluster and install the attaching screws.

(3) Install the small circular spacer onto the trip odometer reset knob.

(4) Position the cluster lens on the cluster face plate.

(5) Position the cluster chrome bezel onto the cluster and install the attaching screws. Take care to have the lens properly positioned before tightening the bezel attaching screws.

(6) Install the clock and odometer reset and the temperature control lever knobs.

(7) Connect the battery negative cable.

7 . INSTRUMENT C L U S T E R — C H R Y S L E R

Removal

NOTE: The instruments and printed circuits can be serviced after the instrument cluster is removed from the instrument panel.

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal before removing cluster.

(1) Cover the steering column jacket tube area between the steering wheel and the instrument panel with masking tape to avoid scratching the paint finish.

(2) Remove the screws attaching the upper and lower moulding at the center of the instrument panel. Remove the heater bezel and disconnect the

Bowden cable, the vacuum lines, and the wiring to the heater control switch.

(3) Remove the screws attaching the instrument panel lower hood to the instrument panel and remove the panel hood.

(4) Loosen the Allen set screw and remove the wiper switch knob. Remove the wiper switch retaining bezel using spanner wrench Tool C-3824 and push the wiper switch out of the instrument cluster.

(5) Remove the six screws attaching the instrument cluster to the instrument panel. The six screws are all visible from the front of the instrument cluster.

Three screws across the top of the instrument cluster and three screws in the instrument cluster lower chrome moulding.

(6) Pull the instrument cluster forward to expose the speedometer cable. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the speedometer.

(7) Roll the instrument cluster down onto the protected steering column jacket tube and disconnect the two printed circuit multi-connectors, the heater switch connectors, the cigar lighter wire, the headlamp switch connector, and lead wires to the ammeter.

(8) Remove the instrument cluster to the work bench for repairing or replacing of the instruments and printed circuits. fnsfo/Jaffofi

CAUTION: The battery cable to the battery negative terminal must be disconnected before installation of the cluster.

(1) Position the instrument cluster on the protected steering column jacket tube in front of the cluster opening in the instrument panel.

(2) Connect the heater or air conditioning vacuum hoses to the heater or air conditioning vacuum control switch.

(3) Connect the two printed circuit multi-connectors and the lead wires to the ammeter. Tighten the nuts on the ammeter studs securely. Connect the head lamp switch connector, cigar lighter connector and heater switch connectors.

(4) Seat the speedometer cable correctly in the speedometer and tighten the knurl securely. Connect the bowden cable to the heater or air conditioning control lever.

(5) Position the wiper switch in the instrument cluster and install the wiper switch retaining bezel, using spanner wrench Tool C-3824.

(6) Install the wiper switch knob. Tighten the Allen set screw in the switch knob securely.

(7) Roll the instrument cluster into position in the instrument panel and install the six attaching screws.

(8) Hold the instrument panel lower hood in position and install the four attaching screws.

(9) Install the screws attaching the upper and lower mouldings at the center of the instrument panel.

(10) Connect the battery cable to the battery negative terminal.

(11) Test instrument cluster operation.

8 . S W I T C H E S — C H R Y S L E R

All switches on the instrument panel or in the instrument cluster can be serviced from under the instrument panel by removing the switch knob, mounting nut or bezel and disconnecting the wiring to the switch.

9 . S W I T C H E S — I M P E R I A L

The instrument panel switches are located in two groups, one group on each side of the steering col-

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8-68 INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES umn. On the left of the steering column are located the headlamp and windshield wiper switches. On the right of the steering column are located the accessory and the ignition switches. To service the switches proceed as follows:

Left G r o u p

(1) Remove the lower steering column cover plate.

(2) Remove the headlamp switch knob and stem assembly and the windshield wiper switch knob.

(3) Remove the screw that attaches the right end of the switch bezel to the instrument panel. This screw can be reached from inside the steering coluthn opening.

(4) Remove the headlamp switch retaining nut using spanner wrench Tool C-3824.

(5) Lift off the switch bezel.

(6) Remove the headlamp and windshield wiper stem light seals.

(7) Remove the mounting nut from the desired switch (headlamp or windshield wiper).

(8) From under the instrument panel pull the switch down and disconnect the wiring.

(9) Remove the switch from under the instrument panel. after removing the switch bezel.

Left Group

(1) Perform steps 1-5 of Left Group in Paragraph 9.

(2) Remove the screw that attaches the bulb diffuser to the instrument panel.

(3) Remove the diffuser.

(4) Remove the bulb from the socket.

Right Group

(1) Perform steps 1-5 of Right Group in Paragraph

(2) Remove the screw that attaches the bulb diffuser to the instrument panel.

(3) Remove the diffuser.

(4) Remove the bulb from the socket.

1 2 . FUSE B L O C K ( F i g . 8 )

The fuse block is located at approximately the center, forward edge of the instrument panel and is retained to the instrument panel lower reinforcement by a self tapping screw.

In the fuse block are mounted the radio, cigar lighter, air-conditioner or heater, tail-stop-dome light, and accessory fuses. The fuse capacity is prints ed on the fuse block as an aid to replacement re^ quirements.

Right G r o u p

(1) Remove the lower steering column cover plate.

(2) Remove the accessory switch knobs.

(3) Remove the screw that attaches the left end of the switch bezel to the instrument panel. This screw can be reached from inside the steering column opening.

(4) Remove the screw in the ignition switch well.

(5) Lift off the switch bezel.

(6) Remove tlie mounting nut from the desired switch (accessory or ignition).

(7) From under the instrument panel pull the switch down and disconnect the wiring.

(8) Remove the switch from under the instrument panel.

1 3 . CIRCUIT BREAKERS

As a safety precaution, circuit breakers are used for the headlamps and wiper circuits. They insure that these essential services will continue to function if an intermittent short circuit occurs. Use only identical type and amperage value circuit breakers as replacements for service.

1 0 .

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BULBS

AH bulbs in the instrument cluster area can be serviced from under the instrument panel. As an aid to service on Imperial models drop the fuse block from the instrument panel lower reinforcement.

1 1 . SWITCH TITLE L I G H T I N G — I M P E R I A L

The switch title lenses are illuminated by bulbs located next to the switches. The bulbs can be serviced

Fig.

8 —Fuse Block

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INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES 8-69

Condition

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

INSTRUMENTS

Possible Cause Correction

A l l Gauges Read High

("against

After is Turned

the peg

Ignition

3 8

)

Switch

" O N "

(a) Faulty constant voltage limiter (stuck points or an open heater coil).

(b) Cluster not properly grounded to panel.

Gauge Pointers Do

Not Move When

I g n i t i o n Switch is Turned " O N "

(a) Faulty constant voltage limiter or an open circuit on battery side (input of limiter).

Temperature and Oil

Gauges* Indieate Normal

Operation But the

Fuel Gauge Indicates a Higher or Lower Fuel

Level t h a n Actually Exists

(a) Fuel tank sending unit or instrument panel fuel gauge is faulty.

(b) Fuel tank is improperly grounded.

(a) Test the voltage limiter.

(b) Tighten cluster mounting screws.

(a) Test voltage limiter. Test wiring, repair or replace as necessary.

(a) Test sending unit and gauge.

(b) Test fuel tank for a good ground.

NOTE: Testing the system w i t h the t a n k sending u n i t positioned for both " e m p t y " and " f u l l " is usually sufficient t o determine t h e calibration i n t h e range between these positions.

Fuel and O i l Gauges* (a) Test wiring, repair or replace as

Indicate Correctly B u t temperature gauge, wiring or necessary. Test gauge and sending unit.

Temperature Gauge faulty temperature sending

Indicates Higher or Lower

Temperature t h a n A c t u a l unit in engine.

Engine Temperature

Erratic Temperature (a)

Gauge Operation connections. connections and test the gauge operation.

Erratic Operation Test the fuel gauge sending unit, and of Fuel Gauge connections or faulty fuel proceed as follows: tank sending unit. (1) Clean and tighten all electrical connections.

(2) Make sure that the fuel tank sending unit is grounded to the tank and that the tank is grounded to the frame.

Erratic O i l Gauge

Operation.*

(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections.

(a) Clean and tighten all electrical connections and test the gauge operation.

*Oil Gauge—Imperial only.

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8-70 DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS

DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. DIRECTIONAL INDICATOR S W I T C H —

IMPERIAL

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.

(2) Remove the two screws from the underside of the steering wheel and remove the horn blowing actuator and steering wheel cover.

(3) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and install steering wheel puller Tool C-3428 and remove the steering wheel nut and steering wheel.

(4) Remove the directional switch lever.

(5) Remove the steering column lower cover.

(6) Remove the two screws and disconnect the switch wires at the connection and remove the directional switch and wires.

Installation

(1) Position the directional switch on the steering column and install the attaching screws and wire connections.

(2) Install the steering column lower cover.

(3) Install the directional switch lever.

(4) Install the steering wheel and steering wheel nut, tighten the nut to 24 foot-pounds torque. Test the operation of the cancelling lever.

(5) Install the horn blowing actuator, steering wheel cover and attaching screws.

(6) Connect the battery negative cable.

2 . DIRECTIONAL INDICATOR S W I T C H —

CHRYSLER

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal.

(2) Compress and turn the horn button turn counter-clockwise to release the button from the retainer. " '

" " "

(3) Disconnect the horn wire at the horn blowing switch.

(4) Remove the three screws and insulators attaching the horn ring and horn blowing switch to the steering column. Remove the horn ring and switch.

LEFT PARK

AND TURN

LEFT TURN

AND STOP

RIGHT PARK

TURN A N D

PANEL INDICATORS

\ RIGHT

RIGHT TURN

AND STOP

IGNITION SWITCH

Fig. 1—Directional Indicator Wiring Diagram

64x420

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DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS 8-71

(5) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and install the Steering Wheel Puller Tool C-3428 and remove the steering wheel nut and steering wheel.

(6) Remove the screw attaching the directional switch lever to the directional switch and remove the lever.

(7) Disconnect the directional switch wiring at the steering column jacket tube below the instrument panel.

NOTE: Attach a piece of string or fine wire to the directional switch wiring before removing the switch from the steering column. When the switch is removed leave the string or wire in the steering column jacket tube as an aid to replacement of the wiring.

(8) Remove the screws attaching the directional switch to the steering column and remove the switch from the top of the steering column.

Installation

(1) Attach the string or wire, that was left in the steering column jacket tube during removal, to the directional switch wiring and carefully pull the string or wire down through the column jacket tube until the directional switch wires can be connected. Position the directional switch in the steering column jacket tube and install the attaching screws and connect all wire connections.

(2) Install the directional switch lever.

(3) Install the steering wheel and the steering wheel nut. Tighten to 24 foot-pounds torque. Test the operation of the cancelling lever.

(4) Install the horn blowing switch, horn ring, insulators and attaching screws. Connect the horn wire.

(5) Install the horn button by compressing and turning % turn clockwise to lock the horn button on the retainer.

(6) Connect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal.

3 . W I R I N G D I A G R A M

Refer to Figure 1 for the wiring of the directional indicator system for Chrysler and Imperial models.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS

Possible Cause Condition Correction

External Lamps Operate (a) Faulty pilot bulb in

Normally, No Indioations instrument cluster. on Instrument Cluster

(a) Replace bulb.

System Does Not Flash (a) Faulty flasher unit.

(b)

Faulty external bulb.

(c) Faulty contact in switch.

(a) Replace flasher.

(b)

Ret>llfee faulty bulb.

(c) Replace switch.

System Does Not Cancel (a) Broken or loose cancelling

After Completion of T u r n finger.

(a) Replace cancelling finger.

(b) Improperly aligned cancelling (b) Align cancelling finger properly. finger.

(c) Broken or faulty switch. (c) Replace switch.

Entire System Does (a) Open circuit in feed wire to stHtch.

(b) Faulty fuse.

Pilot Lamp Illuminates (a) Loose or corroded external

Brightly, External Lamps lamp ground connection.

Glows Dimly with No Flash

(a) Check wiring circuits. Refer to

"Wiring Diagrams''

(b) Replace fuse.

(a) Clean and tighten ground connection.

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8-72 WINDSHIELD WIPERS

PARI 7

WINDSHIELD WIPERS—HORNS

WIPERS •'•

The single, spaed wiper motor, as shown i n Figure 1 is connected to the wiper switch and from the wiper switch "B" terminal to the "Acc

, ?

accessory terminal of the ignition-starter switch. The wiper motor is actuated only when the ignition switch key is turned to the right or left position. The variable speed wiper motor is connected from the wiper motor to the wiper switch and then through a circuit breaker to the ignition switch. Refer to the "Wiring Diagrams". The single'speed wiper motor is

: ;

protected-by a circuit breaker built into the wiper switch. The variable speed motor is protected by a circuit breaker which is attached to the "B" terminal of the switch.

The variable speed system Figures 1 and 2 has a depressed parking feature (against the windshield mouldings) which is accomplished by reversing the motor and using parking cams at the pivot pins of the intermediate crank arm. When the switch is turned to the ''"ofF* position, the motor reverses direction and at the same time the parking cams rotate 180 degrees-lengthening the linkage slightly to park the blades against the windshield moulding. The linkage shortens when the motor runs in the wiper direction.

RETAINER WASHER

*L 2

PIVOT

W A S H E R

RETAINER

Fig. 1—Windshield Wiper Variable and Single Speed (Disassembled View) Chrysler

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WINDSHIELD WIPERS 8-73

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. W I P E R A R M ADJUSTMENT

NOTE: The wiper arm is equipped with a threejaw clutch which provides infinitely fine adjustment of the wiper arm position. The serrations which key the clutch jaws to the tapered portion of the wiper pivot shaft do not restrict or control angular positioning of the wiper arm. This system differs from other types of arms which provide stepped positioning by means of the attaching serrations.

Variable Speed

To determine if an adjustment is required apply an upward force, parallel to the windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm (where the wiper blade is attached to the arm). Measure the force necessary to pull the tip of the wiper blade out of contact with the windshield moulding. If this separation force is not between 10 and 40 ounces loosen the wiper arm nut and change the arm position to bring the separation force into the 10 to 40 ounce range for both wiper arms.

Single Speed

To determine if an adjustment is required, apply a constant downward force of 24 ounces, parallel to the windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm (where the wiper blade is attached to the arm).

With the 24 ounce force applied pull the wiper blade away from the windshield glass once or twice to prevent glass friction from affecting downward movement of the wiper arm and blade. With this force applied the clearance between the tip of the wiper blade and the windshield moulding should be between y* and 1 inch. If the clearance is not in the specified range loosen the wiper arm nut and change the arm position to bring the clearance into the correct position for both wiper blades.

2 .

W I P E R M O T O R P A R K S W I T C H TIMING

The timing of the motor park switch must be:

(a) late enough that the wiper arms come to rest at the extreme lower limit of travel on dry glass.

(b) early enough that the wiper arms do not rise appreciably beyond the lower limit of travel on completely wet glass.

Adjust the timing of the park switch on the wiper motor to provide "shut off" at the lowest point of wiper blade travel under both wet and dry glass conditions.

When adjusting the timing of the variable speed park switch, note that the variable speed motor rotates in reverse at the time the park switch opens.

"Early" and "Late" directions are therefore opposite to single speed motors.

3 . W I P E R P A R K I N G O P E R A T I O N T E S T -

V A R I A B L E SPEED

(1) Turn the instrument panel wiper switch to

Fig.

2 —•Windshield Wiper Variable Speed (Disassembled View) Imperial

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8-74 WINDSHIELD WIPERS

ON and allow the wiper system to run through several cycles of operation. tuator to the mounting bracket and pivot the actuator down out of the way.

(2) Very slightly, after the wiper blades reach the top of the wipe pattern, turn the wiper switch to OFF tor. to cause the blades to park in a one-half cycle of wiper motor operation.

If the blades do not park in the desired V% cycle but require

cycles to park, the procedure of gothe wiper pivots. mounting bracket to the cowl panel. ing through the switching operation must be repeated

(8) Disconnect the right and left wiper links at

(9) Remove the nuts that attach the wiper motor as follows:

(10) Remove the wiper motor, motor mounting bracket and wiper links as an assembly from under

(a) Turn the switch to the "ON" position and allow the instrument panel. the wiper system to operate for a few cycles.

(b) Turn the switch to the "OFF" position, only this time allowing the timing of operating the switch

(7) Disconnect the wiring leads at the wiper mo-

Installation

(1) Install the wiper motor, motor mounting bracket and wiper links as an assembly under the to occur at a position in respect to wiper blade travel that is slightly later than the first operation. Again, note cycle requirement to reach park.

Having parked the wiper system in

cycle of instrument panel. Position the motor mounting bracket on the studs on the cowl panel. Install the motor bracket mounting nuts. motor operation, note whether the wiper blades have traveled well below the normal wipe pattern. If they have not, replacement of the parking dam, spring and spring trip is indicated. If they have, but have not reached the windshield moulding, wiper arm adjustment is required. See Paragraph 1.

(2) Connect the right and left wiper links'at. the pivot.

(3) Connect the wiring leads at the wiper motor.

(4) Position the defroster heat vacuum actuator on the actuator mounting bracket and install the mounting nuts.

4 . P A R K I N G S P R I N G L U B R I C A T I O N —

V A R I A B L E SPEED

To insure satisfactory life of the parking mechanism use only Led-Plate, MoPar Part No. 2275437, to lubricate the parking spring during service. It is essential to thoroughly coat all rubbing surfaces of the spring and pin area. Use of any other lubricant than Led-Plate (such as lubriplate, etc.) will result in noisy operation, rapid wear of components and premature failure of the parking mechanism.

(5) Install the glove box and the remote trunk lock switch (air conditioning only).

(6) From un$er the instrument panel install the right instrument panel lower reinforcement to wiper motor mounting bracket pencil brace.

(7) Install the right defroster hose.

(8) Install the left spot cooler hose (air conditioning only).

(9) Connect the battery negative cable.

6 . W I P E R M O T O R — C H R Y S L E R

5 . WIPER M O T O R — I M P E R I A L

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.

(2) From under the instrument panel remove the left spot cooler hose (air conditioning only).

(3) Remove the right defroster hose.

(4) From under the instrument panel remove the right instrument panel lower reinforcement to windshield wiper motor mounting bracket pencil brace.

(5) Remove the remote trunk lock switch from inside the glove box. Remove the eight screws that attach the glove box to the instrument panel and remove the glove box out through the glove box opening, (air-conditioning only).

(6) From under the instrument panel remove the two nuts that attach the defroster heat vacuum ac-

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal.

(2) Remove the screws attaching the upper and lower mouldings to the center of the instrument panel. Slip the mouldings out from behind the passenger assist handle and remove the mouldings.

(3) Loosen the screws attaching the heater bezel to the instrument cluster. Do not remove the bezel.

(4) Remove the screws attaching the die cast speaker grille to the instrument panel and remove the grille.

(5) Remove the screws attaching the radio speaker mounting plate to the instrument panel and remove the radio speaker and mounting plate as a unit.

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WINDSHIELD WIPERS 8-75

(6) Remove the screws attaching the glove box to the instrument panel and remove the glove box.

(7) Disconnect the wiper links at the pivots.

(8) Remove the panel support bracket from the wiper motor mounting bracket to the instrument panel lower reinforcement.

(9) Disconnect the lead wires at the wiper motor.

(10) Remove the three nuts attaching the wiper motor bracket to the cowl panel.

(11) Remove the wiper motor assembly, with both links attached, out through the glove box opening and out the right sifle of the vehicle.

Installation

(1) Install the wiper motor and bracket assembly, with both links attached through the glove box opening from the right side of the vehicle. Position the motor mounting bracket on the studs on the cowl panel and install the mounting nuts.

(2) Connect the lead wires to the wiper motor.

(3) Install the panel support bracket from the wiper motor mounting bracket to the instrument panel lower reinforcement.

(4) Install the wiper links to the wiper pivots.

(5) Install the glove box in the instrument panel opening and install the attaching screws.

(6) Install the radio speaker and mounting plate in the instrument panel opening and install the attaching screws.

(7) Position the radio speaker die cast grille in the instrument panel and install the attaching screws.

(8) Tighten the heater bezel attaching screws.

(9) Position the instrument panel center upper and lower mouldings under the passenger assist handle and install the attaching screws.

(10) Connect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal.

DISASSEMBLY O F WIPER LINKS

(1) Remove the clip holding the link to the crank arm.

(2) Remove bevel washers and link.

(8) Remove the parking cam and spring release.

(Variable Speed).

(4) Remove coil spring by spreading the ends.

(Variable Speed).

(5) Disassemble the right-hand link in same manner after removing crank arm to lever nut, spacing washers between the link crank arm and lever.

8 . WIPER M O T O R DISASSEMBLY

Variable Speed

(1) Remove switch plate and cover plate.

(2) Remove crank arm nut, washers, crank arm, and gear in that order.

(3) Remove end head through bolts and pull out end head using care so as not to break the lead wire to the brush holder. Remove the armature.

Single Speed

(1) Remove the switch plate.

(2) Remove the motor crank nut, washers and motor crank arm, noting sequence of washers and position of park switch components.

(3) Lift out nylon gear. Note position of gear.

(4) Remove end head through bolts and carefully pull off the head. Remove the armature.

9 . INSPECTING W I P E R M O T O R

(1) Thoroughly inspect the motor parts for wear, corrosion or damage.

(2) Clean the armature commutator with 00 or

000 sandpaper or if necessary due to excessive wear replace the windshield wiper motor.

(3) Replace worn or oil soaked brushes.

(4) Check the armature and crankshaft in their respective bushings and replace worn parts if any looseness is detected.

(5) Inspect gears for worn or broken teeth and replace those showing damage or excessive wear.

1 0 . WIPER S W I T C H ( I n s t r u m e n t P a n e l

Mounted}

Variable Speed

The swtich contains a bar resistance plate which provides a means of controlling the amount of current flow to the motor. The switch is designed to provide a circuit to the motor to reverse the direction of the current to the field winding thus providing a means of reversing the armature. A separate circuit breaker is attached to the "B" terminal of the switch to protect the motor.

To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram, disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the case of the switch and another wire from the battery positive terminal to the "FI" terminal of the switch. Connect a test lamp between the battery negative terminal and the "B" terminal of the switch. Lamp should light when switch is turned on and gradually dim as switch is rotated clockwise.

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8-76 WINDSHIELD WIPERS wiper motor red wire and the wiper motor ground strap. The wiper motor should run in reverse and stop at the park position.

Single Speed

(1) Connect a jumper wire between the battery negative terminal and the wiper motor ground strap.

Connect another jumper wire between the black and blue wires of the wiper motor and the battery positive terminal. The motor should run continuously.

(2) With the jumper wires connected, as in Step 1, disconnect the black wire from the jumper wire leaving the blue wire connected to the battery positive terminal. The wiper motor should park.

1 3 .

ASSEMBLING W I P E R M O T O R

1 1 .

Fig.

3 —End Play Adjustment

Lamp should go out when switch is turned "off".

The switch is serviced only as an assembly.

Single Speed

The switch contains a built-in circuit breaker to protect the motor and is serviced only as an assembly.

To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram, disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch from the instrument panel. Connect a test lamp between "B" terminal of the switch and the negative battery post. Connect the positive battery terminal to the "P" terminal of the post. Lamp should remain lighted in either "ON" or "OFF" position. Failure to light indicates a faulty circuit breaker.

Connect the positive battery to the "R" terminal of the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is turned "ON" and go out when turned "OFF".

END P L A Y ADJUSTMENT

Make sure the gear teeth are adequately covered with long fibre grease.

Correct indexing of the contact plate (single speed motor) or the contact follower (variable speed motor) on the nylon gear is important. After the armature,

To adjust the armature shaft end play turn the adjustment screw in until it bottoms, then back-off

% turn, as Shown in Figure 3. nylon gear, and crank arm are installed, index the contact plate (single speed motor) on the nylon gear with the slot pointing in the same direction as the motor crank arm. Install the contact follower (variable speed motor) with open end pointing in same direction as motor crank arm.

1 4 . W I P E R LINK ASSEMBLY

Variable Speed

Install spring washer, concave surface toward crank arm. Install the crank pivot coil spring on the pivot.

Install the spring release.

Install the parking cam to index with spring release and engage spring ends, between the release and parking cam in openings at point of index, as shown in Figure 4.

LINK SPRING

1 2 . WIPER M O T O R BENCH TESTING

Variable Speed

(1) Connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor yellow wire and the wiper motor ground strap.

Connect another jumper wire between the battery negative terminal and the wiper motor ground strap.

Connect another jumper wire between the wiper motor red and black wires and the battery positive terminal. The wiper motor should run continously in the wipe direction.

(2) Connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor blue and yellow wires and the battery positive terminal. Connect another jumper wire between the

LINK SPRING

Fig.

4 —Link Spring Trip Installed (Variable Speed)

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When assembling to the left Mnk the on the left crank and on the parking cam should be seen.

The cam marked "R" is installed in the sameimanner.

NOTE: If the intermediate crank is held so that the letter "V is visible install the cam release so that the letter " L " can be seen from this position.

The opposite side will show three letters "R".

Install the link arm with the stop projection on the link arm toward the cam assembly. Install the spring washer, convex surface toward the cam assembly.

Install the retaining bolt and nut, as shown in

Figure 5.

^psemble the left link and cam assembly in the same manner locking in place with a clip.

Single Speed

(1) Install a felt washer over the intermediate crank arm stud; follow with the right hand link and another felt washer. Install the intermediate crank stud (with link installed) on the wiper motor crank and install the attaching nut.

(2) Install a felt washer, the left hand link, another felt washer and a shim washer over the remaining pin of the intermediate crank and retain with the retaining clip.

WINDSHIELD

WIPERS 8-77

INTERMEDIATE

CRANK ARM

RIGHT LINK

P A R K I N G C A M

(ECCENTRIC)

5 5 P 1 0 7 1

Fig.

5 —Link Arm Installed (Variable Speed)

15. REPLACING WIPER PIVOT

(1) Remove the wiper arm.

(2) Disconnect the link from the pivot.

(3) Remove the pivot and gasket.

(4) Install a new gasket and pivot.

(5) Tighten the retaining stud nuts 75 inch-pounds torque.

(6) Reconnect link to pivot crank pin and install washer and retainer clip.

(7) Install the wiper arm.

Condition

Wiper Fails t o Operate

Wiper Blades Not

Parking Properly

Blades Slap Windshield

M o u l d i n g s

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

WINDSHIELD W I P E R S

Possible C a u s e

(a) Binding linkage.

(b) Faulty instrument panel switch.

(c) Faulty Motor.

(d) Open or Grounded wiring.

(a) Arm set at incorrect position.

(b) Motor park switch timing incorrect.

(c) Broken link spring. (Variable

Speed)

(d) Link spring trip not engaging stop on linkage. (Variable

Speed) v

(a) Improperly adjusted wiper arm.

(b) Looseness

o f

the motor crank or other drive parts.

Correction

(a) Relieve the binding condition.

( b ) Test Switch. See "Wiper Switch

(Instrument Panel Mounted)."

•(c)

Test m o t o r .

See "Wiper Motor Bench

Testing."

(d) Test wiring for continuity. Repair as necessary.

(a) Adjust arm. See "Wiper Arm

Adjustment."

(b) Time park switch. See "Wiper Motor

Park Switch Timing."

(c) Replace Spring. See "Wiper Link

Assembly".

(d) Inspect "Wiper Link Assembly."

(a) See "Wiper Arm-Adjustment"

(b) Replace the defective part.

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8-78 HORNS

Condition

Blades C h a t t e r

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

WINDSHIELD W I P E R S

Possible Cause

(a) Twisted arm holds blade at wrong angle to glass.

(b) Wrong type blades used,

(e) Foreign substances such as body polish on glass.

Motor"

will"not

Stop when Instrument Panel

Switch is Turned " O F F "

(a) Motor park switch failure in the "closed" position.

Motor Stops in any

Position when Instrument

Panel

Switch is

T u r n e d " O F F "

(a) Motor park switch failure in the "open" position.

Correction

(a) Replace wiper arm. Do not attempt to straighten bent or twisted a r m .

(b) Install correct wiper blades.

(c) Clean the glass.

(a) Repair or replace motor park switch.

HORNS

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. TESTING HORNS

Touch a jumper wire from relay "S" terminal to ground.jg horn .10owjs

..dWcillJte- is in the horn button contact ring, the grounding of the steering Column or in the wire from "S" terminal to the horn button.

If the horn fails to blow, connect a jumper wire from

"B" to "H" terminal. Now if horns operate the relay

Fig. 1*—Removing the Cover (AutoLite Horn) is defective. If horns fail to operate difficulty is in wire to the horns, in the horns, the wire to horn relay "B" terminal or in the grounding of the steering column.

2 . A D J U S T I N G HORNS

Anfofffe H o r n

(1) Disconnect connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating.

(2) Remove horn and bracket assembly. Do not remove horn from bracket; (TMe bracket is retained to the horn by a self-threading screw).

(I) #ry cdvif dn, atl ilioi^h in Figure i .

(4) Turn the adjusting hut counter-clockwise until there is no vibration (sound) (see Fig. 2).

(5) Turn the adjditih§ iiiit ddekWise, ifiprMirlate* ly

¥4

turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn nut while horn is bldWin|.

NOTE: Adjustment will only clear up sound and cannot change horn tone frequency.

(6) Check horn solenoid <*oil leads, make sure they are securely wrapped on horn coil terminals. If lead wires are loose, solder them securely to the coil terminals. Use resin core solder.

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HORNS 8-79

Fig.

2^— Cover Removed (AutoLite Horn)

(7) Check horn contacts. If contacts are badly burned, check resistor for continuity. If contacts are separated, when adjusting nut is removed from the adjusting stud; contacts have taken a permanent set and horn should be replaced.

(8) Connect a test ammeter between the positive post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post.

Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post to the horn base. Clean the paint from the horn bracket where the connection is made. Turn the adjusting screw to obtain a reading of eight amperes minimum to ten amperes maximum at 12.5 volts.

NOTE; Must not exceed ten amperes maximum.

Sparton Horn

(1) Disconnect connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating.

(2) Remove horn and bracket assembly.

(3) With a suitable spanner wrench (Fig. 3), turn the tone adjuster counter-clockwise until there is no vibration (sound).

(4) Turn the tone adjuster clockwise, approximate-

Fig. 3— Adjusting Sparton Horn ly

x k turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn tone adjuster while horn is blowing.

NOTE: Adjustment will only clear up sound and cannot change horn tone frequency.

(5) Connect a test ammeter between the positive post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post. Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post to the horn base. Clean the paint from the horn bracket where the connection is made. Turn the adjusting screw to obtain a reading of six amperes minimum to eight amperes maximum at 12.5 volts.

NOTE: Must not exceed eight amperes maximum.

Condition

Horns W i l l Not Blow

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

H O R N S

Possible Cause

(a) Improper adjustment.

(b) Broken or faulty wiring.

(c) Faulty horn.

(d) Faulty relay.

Horns Blow C o n t i n u o u s l y (a) Shorted wiring.

(b) Horn button sticking.

(c) Relay sticking.

Correction

(a) See "Adjusting Horns".

(b) See "Testing Horns".

(c) See "Testing Horns". Replace horn if necessary.

(d) See "Testing Horns". Replace relay if necessary.

(a) See "Testing Horns".

(b) Disconnect battery ground cable.

Release horn button. After correction, reconnect battery ground cable.

(c) Replace relay.

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8-80 ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS

PART 8 POWER EQUIPMENT

ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS

The electric door lock is operated by a push-pull double action solenoid attached by a connecting rod to the door latch locking lever. By pressing the single pole double throw switch mounted on the right and left front door trim panel, a solenoid in each of the four doors is actuated, moving the latch locking lever into the lock or unlock position.

All doors may be locked or unlocked either mechanically or electrically. To lock mechanically push the front door handle to the forward position and depress the rear daor locking button. To lock electrically depress the switch to lock or lift upward to unlock the doors.

1. SOLENOID

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Removal tlemove the door trim panel. Disconnect the lock to solenoid connecting rod at the solenoid. Disconnect wires and remove solenoid.

Installation

Fasten the solenoid to the door and connect the wires. Tighten the solenoid mounting screws finger tight. Reconnect the lock connecting the rod to the solenoid. Adjust the solenoid by moving the solenoid up or down in the slotted holes, so that the solenoid will push and pull the lever far enough to accomplish locking and unlocking^ Reinstall the trim panel.

Condition

A l l doors not looking or unlocking properly

Individual door not locking or unlocking properly

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

ELECTRIC D O O R L O C K S

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Defective control switch.

(b) Defective wiring.

(a) Defective solenoid.

(b) Defective wiring.

(c) Improperly adjusted solenoid.

(a) Test the switch for continuity.

Replace if necessary.

(b) Test the wiring for continuity. Repair or replace as necessary.

(a) Test the solenoid for continuity.

Replace if necessary.

(b) Test the wiring for continuityS Repair or replace as necessary.

(c) Adjust the solenoid to allow sufficient travel of the solenoid lever to operate the door lock.

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SIX-WAY POWER SEATS

8-81

SIX-WAY POWER SEATS

The power seat can be removed six ways-forward, back, up, down and tilt. The horizontal travel is five inches and horizontal plane of seat track is inclined eleven degrees. The vertical travel is one inch at front and two inches at rear. The available tilt is 8 degrees forward and

IV2

degrees rearward from neutral.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. O P E R A T I O N ( F i g . 1 )

The motor operates a gear drive train which supplies power to the slave units, located in the seat tracks, through flexible cables. The control switch is on the left side of front seat and is wired through a relay to a 30 ampere circuit breaker, located above the left cowl panel.

The wire from the bulkhead disconnect supplies power to the circuit breaker.

Power is supplied to the relay from the circuit breaker.

Six wires go to the switch. One used for power, two for motor field current, which also actuates the relay for motor armature current, and three wires attach to solenoids controlling the movement of the front riser, rear riser and horizontal movement.

The right and left tracks are each replaced as an assembly only. They cannot be adjusted and are not interchangeable.

2. F R O N T SEAT ASSEMBLY A N D ADJUSTER

Removal

(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.

(2) Remove the four mounting stud nuts which hold the front seat to the adjuster and tilt the complete seat back assembly forward.

(3) Disconnect the switch control wires.

(4) Remove the front seat and cushion assembly.

(5) Disconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire.

(6) Remove the seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the adjuster.

Installation

(1) Install the adjuster and seat guide stud nuts.

(2) Reconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire.

(3) Install the front seat assembly.

(4) Reconnect the control wires to the switch and tighten the mounting stud nuts securely.

(5) Reconnect the battery ground cable.

3 . FLEXIBLE CABLES

Removal

(1) Remove the front seat assembly.

(2) Disconnect the red feed wire.

(3) Remove the retainer plate that holds the right side tubes to the drive assembly.

(4) Remove the left seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the guide and the drive assembly (Fig. 2).

Fig. 1—Power Seat Arrangement Fig.

2— Removing Cables from Drive Assembly

8-82 SIX-WAY POWER SEATS

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Fig.

3 —Removing Cables From Right Slave Unit Fig. §—Installing Left Cable Tubes in Slave Unit

CAUTION: Be careful not to tend or damage right side tubes when sliding tubes out of drive assembly.

(5) Pull the flexible cables from the right side tubes (Fig. 3).

(6) Remove the bolts that hold the motor and drive assembly to the left guide bracket.

(7) Remove the drive assembly with tubes from left slave unit (Fig. 4).

(8) Remove the flexible cables from the tubes.

Installation

CAUTION: Seat guides should be in the up and forward position when installing cables. Make sure both guides are at the same position (in alignment).

(1) Place the three left cable tubes into the left slave unit (Fig. 5).

(2) With the shortest tube on the inside and longest on the outside, install the flexible cables in the tubes.

Make sure the cables seat in the slave unit.

(3) Position the drive unit on the left side tubes.

Make sure the flexible cables seat in the slot in the drive unit.

(4) Bolt the drive unit to the guide bracket.

(5) Place the right side flexible cables in the right side tubes.

(6) Position the left guide and drive assembly on the right side tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the drive assembly.

(7) Install the right side tubes retainer plate.

(8) Bolt the left guide assembly to the floor.

(9) Install the seat and cushion assembly.

(10) Reconnect the red feed wire and test the operation of the seat.

63x630A

Fig.

4 —Removing Drive Assembly from Left Slave Unit

4 .

SEAT M O T O R ( F i g . 6 )

R e m o v a l

(1) Remove the two mounting stud attaching nuts that hold the left side of the front seat to the seat adjuster.

(2) Prop-up the left side of the seat cushion approximately six inches.

(3) Disconnect the control switch wires from the relay on the motor.

(4) Remove the two nuts that attach the motor to the drive unit.

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SIX-WAY POWER SEATS 8-83

(5) Remove the motor and rubber coupling from the drive unit.

(6) Disconnect the motor wires from the relay.

(7) Remove the relay from the motor.

Installation

(1) Position the relay on the motor and install the attaching screw.

(2) Connect the motor wires to the relay.

(3) Install the motor and rubber coupling to the drive unit. Install the two attaching nuts.

(4) Connect the control switch wires to the relay on the motor.

(5) Remove the prop from the left side of the seat cushion. Position the seat on the seat adjuster and install the two mounting stud attaching nuts,

5 . DRIVE UNIT A N D SOLENOID ASSEMBLY

Disassembly

(1) Remove the drive unit from the seat assembly.

Refer to "Removal of Flexible Cables" operations

1-4.

(2) Remove the two screws holding the plate and solenoids to the drive unit (Fig. 6).

(3) Remove the plate and solenoid assembly. Be careful not to lose the three springs under the solenoid.

(4) To remove the solenoid coils, bend back on the tabs of the solenoid cover. Unsolder the coil ground wire at the cover tab and remove the coil cover from the coil.

(5) Remove the screws holding the cover on the drive unit.

(6) Remove the cover and lift out the clutch lever and shaft.

Assembly

(1) Install the clutch lever and shaft. Make sure the lever is properly seated on the collar.

(2) Install the cover and screws.

(3) Install the coil in the coil cover with the coil ground wire next to one of the cover tabs.

(4) Position the cover tabs in the slots on the coil plate.

(5) Bend over the tabs and resolder the coil ground wire to the tab and plate.

(6) Install the three solenoid springs and position the solenoids over the springs.

(7) Fasten the solenoids to the drive unit.

(8) Install the drive unit. Refer to "Installation of

Flexible Cables", steps 6 through 9.

Fig. cV—Solenoid and Coil (Disassembled View)

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8-84 SIX-WAY POWER SEATS

HORIZONTAL RACK

FRONT RACK

REAR RACK,,

GUIDE ASSY.

CLUTCH SOLENOIDS

RELAY

F -5 •

• —•

SEAT

ADJUSTER

MOTOR

SLAVE UNIT

CAP

SEAT GUIDE CLEVIS PIN

58x748

FRONT RACK CLEVIS PIN-

Fig.

7 —Removing the Left Slave Unit

6 . S L A V E UNIT

R e m o v a l

(1) Remove the drive unit and the cables. Refer to "Removal of Flexible Cables", operations 1-4. The seat guide should be in the up and forward position.

(2) Remove the long clevis pin from the front of the guide (Fig. 7).

(3) Remove the front rack clevis pin.

(4) To facilitate the removal of the slave unit, remove the slave unit cap.

Be careful not to lose the springs under the cap. The springs are between the racks and the slave cap.

(5) Remove the nuts holding the slave unit to the guide.

(6) Remove the slave unit.

Installation

(1) Position the slave unit over the studs on the guide base.

(2) Position the racks in the slave unit so they

N O . C O L O R

F-5 RED FEED

CIRCUIT

F-6 B R O W N FRONT ELEVATOR

F-7 DARK G R E E N HORIZONTAL

F-8 YELLOW

F-9

F-10

WHITE

DARK BLUE

REAR ELEVATOR

D O W N A N D REARWARD

UP A N D FORWARD 6 4 x 4 1 6

Fig.

8—Six-way Power Seat Wiring Diagram will be in the up and forward position.

(3) Fasten the racks to the guide assembly.

(4) Position the springs on the racks and install the slave unit cap.

(5) Install the slave unit mounting nuts.

(6) Install the front guide clevis pin.

(7) Install the cables in their slots and try operation of guide.

Install the drive unit and cables. Refer to "Installation of Flexible Cables" Paragraph 3 steps 6 through

7 . P O W E R SEAT W I R I N G

Refer to Figure 8 for the wiring of the power seat assembly.

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SIX-WAY POWER SEATS §•§85

. SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

S I X - W A Y POWER SEATS

Condition

Possible C a u s e

Excessive Free Play in the

Unit (Seat has a Rocking

Motion. Excessive Movement between the Slide and the Base of the

Track assembly)

(a) Possibly due to the roller

Fig. 9, being out of position.

Seat

Loose pig.

—Seat Guide {Disassembled View)

T r a c k Excessively (a)

58x209

rivet joints.

Loose Front Levers (a) sections comprising the front

Seat Chuck Fore and A f t lever assembly (Fig. 9).

(a) Loose horizontal rack support arm to lower track base.

C o r r e c t i o n

(a) Repair as follows:

(1) Remove the power seat from

' the vehicle.

(2) Remove the seat drive tubes from the slave unit.

C A U T I O N : Do not r u n the seat motor w i t h t h e drive cables and tubes disassembled or t h e u n i t w i l l be placed o u t of s y n c h r o n i z a t i o n .

(3) Remove the seat support (B) and the rear clevis pin.

(4) Remove the seat slave unit from the seat track slide (C).

(5) Remove the horizontal stops located on the slide at (D).

"" (6) Separate the seat slide (C) from the base (N) by pressing the slide rearward which will allow the rollers (A) to jump the retaining' rivets (E, F , G, H), thereby separating the slide from the base.

(7) Remove the rivet (F) and replace with 5/16-18 x y% bolt (1) as shown to retain the rollers in the proper position. To reassemble, reverse the above sequence.

Iwi reassembly,, frayed drive cab He may o c c u r . S u c h a cable may he repaired by applying a light coating of solder and then grinding to cable size.

(a) Disassemble the upper, track seat " support (B) by removing the cotter keys and pins. Remove^the seat support and tighten all the riveted joints (J) by peening with a ball peen hammer.

(Fig.

9).

(a) Arc weld the front levers (K) to prevent movement between the two sections. (Fig. 9).

(a) Repair as follows:

(1) Remove the seat track from the vehicle and arc weld as shown

(L.) (Fig. 9).

(2) Tighten the rack attaching pins (M) by arc welding, (Fig. 9). unit gear train. necessary.

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8-86 SIX-WAY POWER SEATS

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

S I X - W A Y P O W E R S E A T S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Entire U n i t Inoperative (a) nections in any part of motor control circuit. system. Repair as necessary.

M o t o r I noperative (a) Test the red wire at relay with a power source, faulty relay, switch or motor. test light. If the test light does not light, test for continuity in the red feed wire, a faulty circuit breaker or

(b) Faulty Motor. (b) a poor connection between the circuit breaker and alternator (ammeter). If the test light lights, connect the red feed wire with the red and black or red and green wires from the motor.

If motor runs, relay is faulty.

Repair or replace motor.

(Motor Runs) the switch and affected solenoid. to each solenoid terminal on the clutch assembly. Each solenoid should

"Click" as the jumper is connected.

If solenoid does not click:

Test the wire in the harness for an open circuit. Repair. Test for a possible seized solenoid armature in the coil. Replace the coil. Test for a possible burned-out solenoid. Replace the solenoid.

Seat I noperative (Motor (a) Inspect and replace the drive unit if

Runs and Solenoid Clicks) gear in the drive unit. necessary.

Slave U n i t Inoperative (a) Possible broken drive cable. (a)

(Motor, Solenoids and

Drive U n i t O . K . ) necessary.

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FOUR-WAY POWER SEATS 8-87

FOUR-WAY POWER SEATS

The electric single seat for the Chrysler and Imperial models uses two electric motors (Fig. 1) to produce a front-back travel of 5 inches and an updown travel of

IV2

inches. The control switch is a two button switch, the vertical button for front-back travel and the horizontal button for up-down travel.

The switch is located on the bottom edge of the left side of the driver's seat. Power is supplied to the control switch from the 30 ampere circuit breaker mounted behind the left kick panel.

1. SEAT A N D C U S H I O N ASSEMBLY

Removal

SERVICE PROCEDURES

(1) Remove the two nuts attaching the seat assembly to the seat track at the rear of the seat track rails.

Installation

(1) With the seat track in the extreme forward position, place the seat and cushion assembly on the seat track making certain the studs at the rear of the seat track protrude through the clearance holes at the rear of the seat assembly.

(2) Operate the seat to the extreme forward position to allow access to the two Phillips head screws attaching the seat assembly to the seat track at the front of the seat track rails.

(2) Install the two Phillips head screws that attach the seat and cushion assembly to the seat track at the front of the seat track and rails assembly.

(3) lift the seat assembly up off of the rear studs oh the seat track rails and remove the seat and cushion assembly.

(3) Install the two nuts that mount the seat assembly to the seat track at the rear of the seat rack.

Tighten the nuts securely.

SEAT CUSHION M O U N T I N G STUD•

CLEARANCE HOLE FOR

SEAT CUSHION M O U N T I N G

CONTROL SWITCH-

1—-Seat Track and Rails Assembly

63 x 903

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8-88 FOUR-WAY POWER SEATS

2 . SEAT TRACK A N D RAILS ASSEMBLY

Removal

(1) Remove the seat and cushion assembly.

(2) From underneath the vehicle, remove the four nuts attaching the seat track mounting studs to the floor pan of the vehicle.

(3) Disconnect the wiring terminals from the lead wires of the two electric motors.

(4) Lift the seat track and rails assembly up from the floor pan and remove from the vehicle.

Installation

(1) Position the seat track and rails assembly in the vehicle making certain the four mounting studs protrude through the clearance holes in the floor pan.

(2) From underneath the vehicle install the four nuts that attach the seat track and rails assembly to the floor pan. Tighten the nuts securely.

(3) Install the seat and cushion assembly.

Removal

(1) Disconnect the wiring terminals at the motor lead wires.

(2) Remove the two nuts attaching the motor to the gear housing.

(3) Pull the motor out of the coupling between the motor and the gear housing and remove the motor.

Installation

(1) Position the motor on the coupling on the gear housing making certain the studs on the motor protrude through the clearance holes in the gear housing.

(2) Install the two nuts that attach the motor to the gear housing. Tighten the nuts securely.

(3) Connect the wiring terminals to the lead wires on the motor. Make certain the ground lead from the motor (brown wire) has a good electrical connection.

3 . ELECTRIC DRIVE M O T O R S

Service of the drive motors does not require removal of the seat and cushion assembly. Service procedures for both the vertical and horizontal drive motors are identical. See Wiring Diagram (Fig. 2) for complete electrical circuit.

4 .

CONTROL SWITCH

The control switch is retained to the seat assembly lower side panel by a spring clip. Inserting a screwdriver on each side of the switch will release the spring clip and allow removal of the switch.

There are two terminals connected to the control switch. A two wire terminal and a three wire terminal. The circuits of the five wires are as follows:

- T O SIDE C O W L CIRCUIT BREAKER

-USE WITH SINGLE LEFT

ELECTRIC SEAT ADJUSTER ONLY

G R O U N D T O ^ ^ J J '

FLOOR PAN A

F17B

RIGHT FOUR W A Y

SEAT ADJUSTER SWITCH

(REAR VIEW)

RIGHT VERTICAL

ADJUSTER UNIT

F16

F2E

-F15

6 3 x 9 0 4

CIRCUITS GAUGE COLOR CIRCUITS GAUGE COLOR CIRCUITS GAUGE COLOR

F2 12 RED F2D 12 RED F4 14 DARK GREEN

F2A

F2B

F2C

RED

F2E

F3A

RED

BLACK

F4A

F15

Flf*

DARK GREEN

BLACK WITH TRACER

CIRCUITS GAUGE COLOR

F17

F17A

F17B

DARK GREEN WITH TRACER F17C

BROWN

LEGEND

WIRING SPLICE Q —

INSULATORS VIEWED

FROM TERMINAL SIDE

Id dj

MALE FEMALE MALE FEMALE I

Fig.

2 —Four-way Power Seat Wiring Diagram

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FOUR-WAY POWER SEATS 8-89

Red Wire—12 volt feed from the 30 ampere circuit breaker behind the left kick panel.

Dark Green Wire

—

"down" feed to the vertical drive motor.

Black Wire — "up" feed to the vertical drive motor.

Dark Green Wire — "forward" feed to the horizontal drive motor.

Black Wire

—

"back" feed to the horizontal drive motor.

Since the drive motors are interchangeable, a duplication of wire colors occurs. The three wire terminal to the control switch (Dark Green, Black, Red) contains the feed wires for the vertical drive motor.

The two wire terminal to the control switch (Dark

Green, Black) contains the feed wires for the horizontal drive motor (Fig. 2).

5. C O U P L I N G — M O T O R T O GEAR

H O U S I N G ( F i g . 1 )

The coupling transmits the power from the drive motor to the gear housing. A coupling is used on both the horizontal and vertical drive mechanisms.

Removal of the motor allows the coupling to be serviced by pulling the coupling off the end of the drive shaft of the gear housing.

Service procedures are the same for the coupling on both the horizontal and vertical drive mechanisms.

(7) Remove the motor from the gear housing and remove the motor. The drive mechanism can then be removed.

Installation

(1) Position the horizontal drive mechanism and gear housing assembly into the track bracket.

(2) Install the pivot pins and the two " E " clips at both ends of the drive mechanism.

(3) Install the motor on the gear housing.

(4) Connect the wiring terminals to the motor lead wire connectors.

(5) Install the seat and cushion assembly.

7. VERTICAL DRIVE MECHANISM

Removal

(1) Remove the seat and cushion assembly.

(2) Remove the two nuts at the gear housing end of the vertical worm gear.

(3) Remove the two " E " clips from the track bracket pivot pin at the rearward end of the vertical worm gear.

(4) Remove the pivot pin.

(5) Disconnect the wiring terminals at the motor lead wire connectors.

(6) Remove the motor from the gear housing and remove the motor. The drive mechanism can then be removed.

6. H O R I Z O N T A L DRIVE MECHANISM

Removal

(1) Remove the seat and cushion assembly.

(2) Remove the two " E " clips from the track bracket pivot pin at the rearward end of the horizontal worm gear.

(3) Remove the pivot pin.

(4) Remove the two " E " clips from the track bracket pivot pin at the gear housing end of the horizontal worm gear.

(5) Remove the pivot pin.

(6) Disconnect the wiring terminals at the. motor lead wire connectors.

Installation

(1) Position the vertical drive mechanism and gear housing assembly into the track bracket.

(2) Install the retaining nuts at the gear housing end of the drive mechanism and the pivot pin and the two " E " clips at the rearward end of the drive mechanism.

(3) Install the motor on the gear housing.

(4) Connect the wiring terminals to the motor lead wire connectors.

(5) Install the seat and cushion assembly.

Condition

Entire U n i t Inoperative

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

F O U R - W A Y P O W E R SEATS

Possible C a u s e the circuit breaker to the control switch.

Correction the circuit breaker and the control switch. Repair or replace as necessary. replace as necessary.

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8-90 ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

F O U R - W A Y P O W E R SEATS

Condition Possible Cans® Correction

Seat Operates Horizontally But Will Not

Operate Vertically

(a) Broken or loose wire between (a) Test wiring for continuity between the control switch and the the control switch and the vertical vertical drive motor. drive motor. Repair or replace as

00 Faulty motor. necessary.

(b) Repair or replace the motor.

(c) Faulty or mis-aligned coupling (c) Inspect coupling for wear or misbetween the motor and the alignment. Repair or replace as vertical drive mechanism. necessary.

(d) Faulty vertical drive mechanism.

(d) Inspect the drive mechanism. Repair or replace as necessary.

Seat Operates Vertically (a) Broken or loose wire between

But Will Not Operate

Horizontally the control switch and the horizontal drive motor.

(a) Test wiring for continuity between the control switch and the horizontal drive motor. Repair or replace as necessary.

(b) Faulty motor.

(d) Faulty horizontal drive mechanism.

(b) Repair or replace the motor.

(c) Faulty or mis-aligned coupling (c) Inspect coupling for wear or misbetween the motor and the alignment. Repair or replace as horizontal drive mechanism. necessary.

(d) Inspect the drive mechanism. Repair or replace as necessary.

ELECTRIC

WINDOW

LIFTS

A master switch group, on the left front door, are located on their respective doors. The circuit operates all the windows and the individual switches breaker is above the left front cowl panel.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. W I R I N G T i S f

Disconnect the cable at the battery negative post and remove the two window lift feed wires from the circuit breaker.

Do not remove the battery feed wire.

Reconnect the battery negative cable at battery and replace the feed wires one at a time as follows:

(1) One feed wire feeds the left front door.

(2) The other feed wire feeds the right front door and both rear doors.

(3) Test the wiring to the doors one at a time to locate the short.

NOTE; When testing for faulty wiring, inspect the wiring harness control wires for a break behind the plate and sector or the regulator in each door.

2 . M O T O R

Removal

(1) Remove the garnish moulding and trim panel.

(2) Remove the two nuts that attach the motor to the gearbox assembly.

(3) Drop the motor down off the gearbox assembly.

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ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS 8-91

(4) Ground the motor through bolt to the body inner panel.

(5) Test the operation of the motor using the window lift switch. If the motor is defective replace the motor.

Do not attempt any internal service on the motor.

(6) Disconnect the lead wires to the motor and remove the motor.

Installation

(1) Position the motor on the gearbox assembly and install the two mounting nuts.

(2) Connect the wiring to the motor.

(3) Test operation of the motor using the window lift switch.

(4) Install the trim panel and garnish moulding.

3 . W I N D O W L I F T — C H R Y S L E R

(5) Connect the wires to the motor and connect the battery.

(6) Operate the window several times and stop the glass halfway.

(7) Tighten the regulator screws.

(8) Check the glass alignment.

(9) Connect a test ammeter into the electrical circuit and operate the window. The ammeter reading should be constant without fluctuation as follows: approximately 14 amperes, all models except rear doors of four-door hard top models, and approximately 20 amperes for the rear doors of the four-door hard top models.

If the ammeter reading fluctuates, there is a bind in the glass or in the linkage. The down stop should be adjusted so that the window is flush with the garnish moulding.

(10) Install the trim panel, switch and garnish moulding.

R e m o v a l

(1) Disconnect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal.

(2) Remove the garnish moulding, the door trim panel and disconnect the wires from the switch.

(3) Remove the clips from the regulator pins holding the lower glass channel.

(4) Raise the glass manually and prop in the up position.

(5) Remove the regulator attaching screws, pivot arm from the guide on the inner panel and remove the motor and regulator through the opening in the door.

(6) If it is necessary to replace the gear box, remove the regulator counter-balance spring.

NOTE: Be sure to remove the counter-balance spring before disassembling the gear box.

The gear box is replaced as an assembly only and is lubricated at assembly. No further lubrication is required.

Installation

(1) Place the motor and regulator through the door opening and insert the pivot arm into the guide on the inner panel.

(2) Install the regulator screws finger tight.

NOT tighten at this time.

(3) Remove the window prop and lower the glass.

(4) Insert the control arms into the glass channel, ising a leather washer on each side of the channel and secure with a clip.

4 . W I N D O W L I F T — I M P E R I A L

R e m o v a l

(1) Remove the trim panel and garnish moulding.

(2) Remove the window glass retaining clips. Push the regulator arm pins out of the window glass frame.

(3) Push the glass and frame assembly to the "UP" position and prop the glass securely.

(4) Remove the regulator attaching bolts. The bottom bolt can be removed using a socket and extension.

(5) Remove the regulator pivot arms from the regulator channels.

(6) Disconnect the wiring to the motor.

(7) Remove the regulator and motor as an assembly out through the access opening in the inner panel.

(8) The motor can then be serviced on the bench. fftSfCfffCfffOff

(1) Install the motor and regulator as an assembly in through the access opening in the inner panel and install the three regulator mounting bolts.

(2) Install the regulator pivot arms into the channels.

(3) Remove the prop that held the window glass and frame in the "UP" position and lower the assembly down until the regulator pins are in line with the openings in the window glass frame.

(4) Install the regulator pins into the window glass frame and install the retaining clips.

(5) Connect the wiring to the motor.

(6) Install the trim panel and garnish moulding.

MyMopar.com

8-92 ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

ELECTRIC W I N D O W LIFTS

Possible Cause C o n d i t i o n Correction

A Window Will Not

Operate from the

Master Switch, But

Can he Operated from the Individual Door

Switch

None of the Windows

Will Operate from the Master Switch or from the Individual

Door Switch

(a) Faulty switch in the master

( b ) switch group.

Break in the wire at the door opening, or at the door holding the master switch group.

(a) Faulty circuit breaker— located above left cowl panel.

(a) Replace master switch.

( b )

Test for continuity, see "Wiring

Diagrams". Repair wiring. Avoid making a splice in the flexing sections of the wiring harness.

(a) Replace circuit breaker and test the new circuit breaker to determine if voltage is present at the terminal opposite the battery feed.

( b )

Open in the battery feed wire '(b) Test for continuity and repair as from the circuit breaker to necessary. the alternator (ammeter).

A Window Cannot be Operated from

Either the Master

Switch or the

Individual Door Switch

(a) Test for faulty circuit breaker located above left cowl panel.

A Window Will Operate (a) Faulty circuit between in One Direction Only master switch and door

When Controlled by

Either the Master switch.

Switch or by the

Individual Door Switch If the window can be moved by rotating the coupling between the motor and the gear box.

"(c) Lift motor burned out.

"(d) Short in wiring circuit.

(a) Replace circuit breaker.

( b )

Master switch and door switch inoperative.

(c) Open in wire between motor and switch.

(d) Jammed gear box.

( b )

Test the master switch and door switch for continuity.

(c) Test for continuity between the motor and the switch. Repair wiring

( d ) as necessary.

Test and repair. Inspect motor to gear box alignment.

(e) Coupling broken between the (e) Replace coupling and test motor and motor and the gear box. gear box alignment.

(f) Lift motor burned out. (f) Repair or replace lift motor. Test for sticking door switch as possible cause of motor failure

(g) Short in the wiring circuit. (g) Inspect and test wiring. See "Wiring

Diagrams".

(a) Test the master switch and door switch for continuity. Test for continuity between the motor leads and the switch.

( b )

Remove the window lift motor and test on bench with battery voltage.

See "Wiring Diagrams".

'•'(c) Test for Sticking switch.

( d )

Inspect and test all wiring. See

"Wiring Diagrams".

Circuit Breaker Clicks

" O n " and "Off" Continuously and Window Does

Not Operate

(a) Short in the feed wire that feeds the right front and rear doors.

(a) Test the wiring, repair or replace as necessary.

( b )

A faulty switch.

( b )

Replace the switch if necessary.

MyMopar.com

ELECTRIC DECK LID LOCK 8-93

ELECTRIC DECK LID L O C K

IMPERIAL MODELS

The electric deck lid lock allows unlocking of the rear deck lid from inside the passenger compartment of the vehicle. The system consists of a push-button switch in the glove compartment, a solenoid mounted on the underside of the deck lid and the push-button switch from the 10 ampere circuit breaker behind the left kick panel. The deck lid is locked automatically when the lid is closed securely.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. O P E R A T I O N

To unlock the deck lid open the glove compartment and push "in" on the switch located on the left side of the glove box. When the switch is pushed "in" voltage is fed through the switch to the solenoid which releases the deck lid locking mechanism. as necessary. Refer to Figure 1 for wiring of the system.

SOLENOID (ON

REAR DECK LID

2 . TESTS

If the deck lid fails to unlock when the switch is pushed "in" test for good wire connections at the switch and the circuit breaker. If the wire connections are good, test the switch for electrical continuity. If the switch is good, test for "open" or "grounded" wires in the system. If the wiring is good, test for a faulty solenoid. If the solenoid is faulty the deck lid can be opened manually by using the luggage compartment key. Repair or replace the faulty component

10 AMP.

CIRCUIT BREAKER

PUSH BUTTON SWITCH

(IN G L O V E COMPARTMENT) 64x639

Fig. 1—Electric Deck Lid Lock Wiring Diagram

MyMopar.com

" C " PILLAR MANUAL

LAMP, SWITCH

-M-2K

TO M-2. CIRCUtT IN

W I N D O W LIFT WIRING

- M - 2 U -

-2 L — ^

- 2 R ^

R O O F RAIL SWITCH

RIGHT POCKET

PANEL LAMP

T W Q DOOR. HARDTOP

" C " PILLAR LAMP W I R I N G

TO M-2 CIRCUIT JN

W I N D O W LHT

W I R I N G

POCKET PANEL MANUAL

LAMP SWITCH

TO FRONT D O O R

AUTOMATIC

S W I T C H E S

1%

TO BODY

WIRING

L E G E N D

W I R I N G SPLICE

CIR.

INSULATORS VIEWED FROM TERMINAL SIDE

Q Q IP

<tf

B-2

B-2A

B-2B

B-2C fiZ^^=^»-

•M-2G-

- M - 1 G -

LEFT " C "

PILLAR LAMP

RIGHT " C "

PILLAR LAMP

CIRCUITS

G A . C O L O R

18 WHITE

C - l l

C-12

18 WHITE

18 BLACK

20 WHITE

C-13 18 BLACK

C-13A 14 BLACK

C-14

C-20

C-22

14 BLACK

16 B R O W N

16 DARK G R E E N

C-22A 16 DARK G R E E N

T O DOME LAMP

SWITCH (MANUAL)

DOME LAMP

C U S T O M FOUR D O O R HARDTOP

M-2F

C-24

0-7

16 BLACK

D-7A 18

B R O W N

T O W I N D O W

LIFT W I R I N G T O CIGAR LIGHTER

G R O U N D S C R E W

D-8 18 DARK G R E E N

D-8A 18 DARK G R E E N

G-4 18 LIGHT BLUE

H®

LEFT POCKET

PANEL LAMP

:>|TO BODY WIRING

TO COURTESY LAMP

SWITCH O N R O O F RAIL

REAR W I N D O W D E F O G G E R

MOTOR ( O N SHELF PANEL)

•M-2B-

T O REAR W I N D O W

D E F O G G E R SWITCH WIRING

(ON INSTRUMENT PANEL)

C R O W N CONVERTIBLE

T O W I N D O W

LIFT W I R I N G

G R O U N D T O

BLOWER H O U S I N G

C-14 E ®

C R O W N A N D LEBARON

FOUR DOOR HARD TOP

C-12-

RESISTANCE CABLE

- C - 2 2 -

- C - 1 3 A

REAR AIR

C O N D I T I O N I N G

BLOWER MOTOR

RESISTOR

G R O U N D T O AIR

2 4 ^ ) C O N D I T I O N I N G UNIT TO REAR AIR

C O N D I T I O N I N G

SWITCH W I R I N G

(ON INSTRUMENT

PANEL)

T O TOP LIFT

SWITCH W I R I N G

(ON INSTRUMENT

PANEL)

G R O U N D T O

MOTOR

SUPPORT

T O CIRCUIT

BREAKER

SEE

- INSTRUMENT

PANEL W I R I N G

LEBARON FOUR DOOR* HARD TOP

-M-llA

-=€fD

T O TRUNK LAMP " r U - * ^

L A m

RIGHT READING LAMP

AND SWITCH

LEBARON FOUR DOOR

HARD TOP

SWITCH r

Q_ *

SW,TCH

aQ-»nl fJtf^icJ^

M - l l

M-l

^ f £ j M - I A ^ ^ J ^ M - I G r

2 C

G-4

TO; FUEL TANI

S E N D I N G UNIT

VITCH

M-

LEBARON FOUR D O O R HARD TOP

CIR.

L-7

L-7A

L-7B

L-7C

L-7D.

CIRCUITS

G A COLOR

18 BLACK

BLACK

18 BLACK

L-7E

L-7F

L-7G

18 BLACK

L-7H 18

M-l 18

BLACK

PINK

M-l A 18 PINK

M-1B 18 PINK

M-1C 18 PINK

M-1D 18 PINK

M-1E 18 PINK

M-1F 18 PINK

M-1G 18 PINK

M-1J 18 PINK

M-1K 18 PINK

M-2 18 YELLOW

M-2A 18 YELLOW

M-2B 18 YELLOW

M-2C 18 YELLOW

M-2D 18 YELLOW

M-2E 18 YELLOW

M-2F 18 YELLOW

M-2G 18 YELLOW

M-2H 18 B R O W N

M-2J 18 B R O W N

M-2K 18 YELLOW

M-2L 18 YELLOW

M-2N 18 B R O W N

M-2P 18 BROWN

M-2R 18 B R O W N

M-2S 18 YELLOW

M-2T 18 YELLOW

M-2U 18 Y E L L O W

M-3 16 WHITE

M-3A 18 WHITE

M - l l 18 PINK

M-11A 18 PINK

M-l 2 18 YELLOW

T-l

T-2

12 RED

12 B R O W N

12 RED T-2A

T-3

T-3A

T-4

X-4T

X-42

12 YELLOW

12 BLACK

16 RED

16 BLACK

X-42A i a PINK

T O C I G A R LIGHTER

CIRCUIT BREAKER t f r -

-X*42A-

— c ? >

LEBARON FOUR DOOR* HARDTOP

DECK LID

LOCK S O L E N O I D

64 x 77

Fig. 1—Body Wiring—Imperial

MyMopar.com

D O M E LAMP

T O BODY W I R I N G

G R O U N D

T O D O O R

—M-1J

RIGHT R E A D I N G LAMP

A N D SWITCH

T O RIGHT

FRONT D O O R

AUTOMATIC SWITCH

X-2

T O C I G A R LIGHTER

FEED CABLE ( O N

INSTRUMENT PANEL)

M-2L

1

M - 2 K — v

N E W YORKER

S A L O N FOUR D O O R HARD T O P

LEFT R E A D I N G LAMP

A N D S W I T C H

_ RIGHT REAR D O O R

C I G A R LIGHTER

W I N D O W LIFT

CIRCUIT BREAKER r-X-3D-

SEE INSTRUMENT

PANEL W I R I N G

FOR F E E D ^ i l i

"6fX

-30

LEFT REAR D O O R

C I G A R LIGHTER

G R O U N D

T O D O O R

@ 3 X-2 1

BACK O F FRONT

SEAT C I G A R LIGHTER

-X-3A- < 9 g j

M-2

X - 1 4 -

T O INSTRUMENT

PANEL W I R I N G

T O A N T E N N A SWITCH

W I R I N G ( O N

INSTRUMENT PANEL)

T O C I G A R LIGHTER

FEED CABLE ( O N

INSTRUMENT PANEL)

SIDE C O W L

CIRCUIT BREAKER

-X-13

X - 3 B -

—51

T O RIGHT REAR

A U T O M A T I C

D O O R SWITCH

c O

POCKET PANEL

LAMP W I R I N G

CONVERTIBLE

T O A N T E N N A

M O T O R

T O C I G A R LIGHTER

IN BUCKET

SEAT DIVIDER

REAR AIR

C O N D I T I O N I N G

M O T O R RESISTER

C-20

G R O U N D

T O AIR

C O N D I T I O N I N G

:-22-

T O REAR AIR I r a ^

2 2 A

C O N D I T I O N I N G

H f l l

•

SWITCH W I R I N G

( O N INSTRUMENT

PANEL)

UNIT

•C-24-

REAR AIR C O N D I T I O N I N G

BLOWER M O T O R

T O T O P LIFT

SWITCH W I R I N G

( O N INSTRUMENT PANEL)

RIGHT P O C K E T

PANEL LAMP

RIGHT " C " PILLAR LAMP

T W O D O O R HARDTOP

M-1M

LEFT " C " PILLAR LAMP

T W O D O O R HARDTOP

T O LEFT FRONT

D O O R A U T O M / T I C

SWITCH

MALE

FEMALE

- M - 2 F -

Q P f

MALE

T O INSTRUMENT

PANEL W I R I N G

FEMALE

W I R I N G

-M

-2

MJLJXJ

LEFT P O C K E T

PANEL LAMP

L-M-1B

•M-2B =5"

9%&b

L E G E N D

W I R I N G SPLICE

- M - 2 E -

T O LEFT REAR

-Tfegft D O O R AUTOMATIC

SWITCH

INSULATORS VIEWED F R O M TERMINAL SIDE

REAR W I N D O W

D E F O G G E R M O T O R

( O N SHELF PANEL)

:-n—

- C - 1 2 -

• P ^ O < - 1 3 4 ( ] K - 1 3 A / ^ JC-

T O REAR W I N D O W \ G R O U N D T O

D E F O G G E R SWITCH SHELF PANEL

TOP LIFT

M O T O R

TO DOME OR

POCKET PANEL

CIR.

B-2

CIRCUITS

G A , C O L O R

18 WHITE

B-2A 18 WHITE

B-2B

C - l l

WHITE

BLACK

C-12 20 WHITE

C-13 18 BLACK

C-13A 14 BLACK

D O M E LAMP

FOUR D O O R S E D A N

LAMP WIRING J

O U R D O O R

HARDTOP

T O BODY W I R I N G

M-l ! < > - - M - l 1

A — C Z y D LAMP

M-2E

« — f W T R U N I

M-2J

18 Y E L L O W

T O INSTRUMENT PANEL W I R I N G

0-7

^ H

H K

RIGHT TAIL

STOP A N D TURN

S I G N A L LAMP

ROMMET

. L-7C

M-2K 18 BLACK

M-2L 18 BLACK

M-2M 18 Y E L L O W

M-2N 18 YELLOW

G R O M M E T

U C E N S

M - l l

18 PINK

M-11A 18 PINK

M-l 2 18 YELLOW

T-l 12 RED

-2A G R O M M E T "

L-7-

D-8-

G R O U N D T O

M O T O R SUPPORT

L-7B

4

T O TRUNK

LAMP SWITCH

RIGHT BACK-UP

LAMP (SPUN

IN S O C K E T )

LEFT BACK-UP

LAMP (SPUN

IN S O C K E T )

LEFT TAIL

STOP A N D TURN

S I G N A L LAMP.

CIR.

CIRC UITS

G A . C O L O R

C-14 14 BLACK

C-20 16 B R O W N

C-22 16 DARK G R E E N

C-22A 16 DARK G R E E N

C-24 16 BLACK

D-7 18 B R O W N

D-8

G-4

18 DARK G R E E N

18 LIGHT BLUE

L-7

L-7A

18 BLACK

L-7B

L-7C

18 BLACK

L-7D 18 BLACK

M-l 18 PINK

M-l A 18 PINK

M-1B 18 PINK

M-1C 18 PINK

M-1D 18 PINK

M-1E 18 PINK

M-1F 18 PINK

M - 1 G 18 PINK

M-1H 18 PINK

M-1J 18 PINK

M-1M 18 PINK

M-1N 18 PINK

M-2 18 Y E L L O W

M-2A 18 YELLOW

M-2B 18 YELLOW

M-2C 18 Y E L L O W

M-2D 18 Y E L L O W

T-2

T-2A

T-3

T-3A

T-4

X-2

X-3

X-3A

X-3B

12 B R O W N

12 RED

12 Y E L L O W

12 BLACK

18 WHITE

14 LIGHT G R E E N

X-3C 14 LIGHT G R E E N

X-3D 14 LIGHT G R E E N

X-13

X-14

18 B R O W N

18 Y E L L O W

6 4 x 42

Fig.

2 —Body Wiring (Except Town a n d Country) Chrysler

8-96 WIRING DIAGRAM

MyMopar.com

X-27

RIGHT REAR

Fig.

3 —-Instrument Panel Wiring—Imperial

MyMopar.com

WIRING DIAGRAM 8-97

RADIO LIGHTING

CIR.

A - l

A-1A

A-1B

CIRCUITS

G A COLOR

12 RED

18 WHITE B-l

B-2

C - l

C-4

C-5

C-10

C - l l

18 WHITE

14 BLACK WITH

TRACER

16 BROWN

16 DARK GREEN

18 LIGHT GREEN

18 BLACK

C-12 18 WHITE

D-l 18 BLACK

D-2 18 RED

D-2A 18 RED

D-3 • 18 PINK

D-4 18 WHITE

D-4A 18 WHITE

D-5

D-5A

D-6

D-6A

D-7

D-7A

D-8

18 TAN

18 LIGHT GREEN

18 BROWN

18 DARK GREEN

E-2M

E-2N

E-2P

E-2S

G - l

G-2

G-4

D-8A 18 DARK GREEN

D-9 18 TAN

18 LIGHT GREEN D-10

E-l

E-2

E-2A

E-2B

E-2C

E-2D

E-2E

E-2F

E-2G

E-2H

E-2J

E-2K

E-2L

G-6

H-3A

J - l

18 TAN

I S O R A N G E

18 O R A N G E

18 BLACK

18 VIOLET

18 LIGHT BLUE

18 GRAY

18 BLACK WITH

TRACER

18 BLACK

12 RED

CIR.

J-2

J-3

L-l

L-2

L-3

L-4

L-5

L-6

CIRCUITS

GA COLOR

16 DARK BLUE

18 BROWN

16 BLACK WITH

TRACER

16 LIGHT GREEN

16 RED

16 BLACK

18 RED

18 YELLOW WITH

TRACER

18 BLACK L-7

L-8 18 PINK

M-l 18 PINK

M-1A 18 PINK

M-1B

M-2

18 PINK

18 YELLOW

M-2A 18 YELLOW

M-3 18 PINK

Q-2 12 BLACK

Q-2A 12 BLACK

-3 12 RED WITH

•TRACER

R-6

R 6 A

S-2

V-l

V-3

12 BLACK

18 YELLOW

16 PINK

16 BLACK WITH

TRACER

V-3A

V-4

V-4A

V-5

16 BLACK

16 RED

16 YELLOW

V-5A

V-6

16 YELLOW

16 DARK BLUE

V-6A 16 DARK BLUE

V-9 16 BLACK

V-10 18 TAN WITH

TRACER

X-1

X-1A

18 TAN

16 RED

X - l l

X-12

X-13

X-14

18 BLACK

18 BROWN

18 YELLOW

X-21

X-24

18 GRAY

16 RED

X-24A 16 RED

X-24B 16 RED

X-24C 16 RED

X-25

X-26

X-27

X-28

RED

LIGHT BLUE

BLACK

BROWN

X-28A 16 BROWN

Fig.

3 —Instrument Panel Wiring—Imperial

LEGEND

WIRING SPLICE <J>-

INSULATORS VIEWED FROM TERMINAL SIDE

E l P

w ^

MALE FEMALE MALE FEMALE

64 x 47

8-98 WIRING DIAGRAM

RIGHT FRONT DOOR - H f - V - M

2 E

AUTOMATIC SWITCH — * , —

(CONVERTIBLE ONLY)

MyMopar.com

RIGHT REAR*

Fig.

4— Instrument Panel Wiring—Chrysler

MyMopar.com

WIRING DIAGRAM 8-99

INDICATOR LAMP

CIR.

A-l

CIRC UITS

GA. COLOR

12 RED

A-1A 12 RED

A-1B 12 RED

B-l 18 WHITE

B -1A 18 WHITE

B-2

C-l

18 WHITE

B -2A 18 WHITE

14 BLACK WITH

TRACER

C-4 16 BROWN

C-5 16 DARK GREEN

C -10 18 LIGHT GREEN

C-l 1 18 BLACK

C-12

D-l

D-2

18 WHITE

18 BLACK

18 RED

D-2A 18 RED

D-3 18 PINK

D -4 18 WHITE

D-4A 18 WHITE

D -5 18 TAN

D -5A 18 TAN

D-6

D-6A

18 LIGHT GREEN

D -7 18 BROWN

D-7A 18 BROWN

D -8 18 DARK GREEN

D-8A 18 DARK GREEN

" ^ I N S T R U M E N T LAMPS TEMPERATURE G A U G E r —

D-9

AO 1

E -2

18 TAN

D-10 18 LIGHT GREEN

18 TAN

18 ORANGE

INSTRUMENT LAMPS

E-2A 18 ORANGE

E-2B 18 ORANGE

E-2C 18 O R A N G E

E-2D 18 ORANGE

E-2E

E 2 F

18 ORANGE

E -2G 18 ORANGE

E-4 18 YELLOW WITH

TRACER

E-5 18 ORANGE WITH

TRACER

FUEL GAUGE

E-5A 18 ORANGE WITH

TRACER

E -5B 18 ORANGE WITH

TRACER

G - l

G-2

G-4

G-5

G-6

H -3

18 BLACK

18 VIOLET

18 LIGHT BLUE

18 DARK BLUE

18 GRAY

18 BLACK WITH

TRACER

H-3A 18 BLACK

J-l

J-2

12 RED

16 DARK BLUE

J -3

L -l

18 BROWN

16 BLACK WITH

TRACER

L-2

L -3

L -4

L-5

16 LIGHT GREEN

16 RED

16 BLACK

18 RED

LEFT FRONT DOOR

AUTOMATIC SWITCH

LEGEND

WIRING SPLICE <>

INSULATORS VIEWED FROM TERMINAL SIDE

& W • v

MALE FEMALE MALE FEMALE

CIR.

L-6

CIRC UITS

G A . COLOR

18 YELLOW WITH

TRACER

L-7

L-8

M-l

18 BLACK

18 PINK

M-l A 18 PINK

M -2 18 YELLOW

M-2A 18 YELLOW

M-2B 18 YELLOW

M-2C 18 YELLOW

M-2D 18 YELLOW

M-2E 18 YELLOW

M-2F 18 YELLOW

M-2G 18 YELLOW

M-3 18 PINK

M-3A 18 PINK

M-3B 18 PINK

M-4

M -5

P-l

P-2

18 YELLOW

18 ORANGE

M-5A 18 ORANGE

18 LIGHT BLUE

G-2 12 BLACK

Q-2A 12 BLACK

Q-3 12 RED WITH

R-6

TRACER

12 BLACK

R-6A 12 BLACK

S-2

T-1

T-2

18 YELLOW

12 RED

12 BROWN

T-3

V-l

V-3

12 YELLOW

16 PINK

16 BLACK WITH

TRACER

V-3A 16 BLACK

V-4 16 RED

V-4A 16 RED

V-5 16 YELLOW

V-5A 16 YELLOW

V-6 16 DARK BLUE

V-6A 16 DARK BLUE

V-9 16 BLACK

V-10 18 TAN WITH

TRACER

X-1 16 RED

X-1A 16 RED

X-2 16 RED

X-2A 14 GREEN

X-3 18 BLACK

X-11 18 BLACK

X-11A 18 BLACK

X-12 18 BLACK

X-13 18 BROWN

X-14 18 YELLOW

X-21 18 GRAY

X-24 16 RED

X-24A 16 RED

X-24B 16 RED

X-25 16 RED

X-26 16 LIGHT BLUE

X-27 16 BLACK

X-28 16 BROWN

Fig.

4— Instrument Panel Wiring—Chrysler

MyMopar.com

SEE _

INSTRUMENT

PANEL WIRING

* — • y C-22D - i y - C - 2 2 C C-22B •

\ C-20D

- 3 r \ c

- 2 0 C

— - L

AIR

r O N D I T I O N I N t t I

BLOWER M O T O R

PIG TAILS O N RIGHT

AIR C O N D I T I O N I N G

T O FRONT D O O R

A U T O M A T I C SWITCH

3k s

RIGHT OR LEFT SIDE 1

TO M - 2 CIRCUIT O N

INSTRUMENT PANEL

W I R I N G RIGHT OR

LEFT SIDE MALE FEMALE MALE FEMALE

Fig, §

—

Body Wiring (Town and Country) Chrysler

CIR.

B-2

CIRCUITS

G A . COLOR

18 WHITE

B-2A 18 WHITE

B-2B 18 WHITE

B-2C 18 WHITE

C-20 16 B R O W N

C-20A 14 B R O W N

C-20B 14 B R O W N

CIR.

CIRCUITS

G A COLOR

C-20C 14 B R O W N

C-20D 14 B R O W N

C-22 16 DARK GREEN

C-22A 14 DARK GREEN

C-22B 14 DARK GREEN

C-22C 14 DARK GREEN

C-22D 14 DARK GREEN

C-24 14 BLACK

C-24A 14 BLACK

C-24B 14 BLACK

C-24C 14 BLACK

D-7 18 BROWN

D-7A 18 B R O W N

D-8 18 DARK GREEN

D-8A 18 DARK GREEN

G-4

L-7

18 LIGHT BLUE

18 BLACK

L-7A

L-7B

L-7C

L-7D

L-7E

BLACK

18 BLACK

L-7F

M - l

BLACK

PINK

M-1A 18 PINK

M-1B 18 PINK

M-1C 18 PINK

M - 1 D 18 PINK

M-1E 18 PINK

M-2 18 YELLOW

M-2A 18 YELLOW

M-2B 18 YELLOW

M-2C 18 YELLOW

M-2D 18 YELLOW

M-2E 18 YELLOW

M-3

W-5

18 B R O W N

12 RED

W - 5 A 12 RED

W-5B 12 RED

W - 1 5 12 B R O W N

W - 1 5 A 12 B R O W N

W-15B 12 B R O W N

W - 1 5 C 12 B R O W N

W - 1 5 D 12 B R O W N

W-15E 14 DARK GREEN

W - 2 5 12 YELLOW

W - 2 5 A 12 YELLOW

W-25B 12 YELLOW

W - 2 5 C 12 YELLOW

W - 2 5 D 14 BLACK

X-3 14 LIGHT GREEN

6 4 x 7 6

LEFT

DUAL

HEADLAMPS i

MyMopar.com

Fig.

6 —Engine Compartment Wiring

—

Chrysler

DASH

LINE

J-2

J-2A

J-3

L-3

L-3A

L-3B

L-3C

O R .

A-l

CIRCUITS

G A . C O L O R

12 RED

A-1B 16 DARK BLUE

B-l

WITH TRACER

18 BLACK WITH

B-2

WHITE TRACER

18 BLACK WITH

D-5

D-6

G-2

G-6

H-l

WHITE TRACER

18 TAN

18 LIGHT G R E E N

18 VIOLET

18 G R A Y

14 VIOLET

H-2 16 DARK G R E E N

H-2A 16 DARK G R E E N

H-3 18 BLACK WITH

TRACER

16 DARK BLUE

14 DARK BLUE

18 B R O W N

16 RED

1-4 16 BLACK

L-4A 16 BLACK

1-6 18 YELLOW WITH

L-6A

L-9

L-9A

L-9B

L-9C

R-3

R-4

R-5

R-6

S-2

S-4

TRACER

18 YELLOW

16 WHITE

18 DARK G R E E N

16 B R O W N

18 DARK BLUE

12 BLACK

18 YELLOW

16 B R O W N

S-4A 16 B R O W N

S-5 12 B R O W N

V-10 18 TAN WITH

TRACER

X-27 16 BLACK

(PART O F INSTRUMENT

PANEL WIRING)

L E G E N D

W I R I N G SPLICE

INSULATORS VIEWED FROM TERMINAL SIDE

w ^

FEMALE MALE FEMALE

64x43

8-102 WIRING DIAGRAM

MyMopar.com

R U

A-l 12 RI

R N

G-

K E

A K L

R W

3C 16 R

4A 16 B

L-

L W

L W l? 16 W

L-

3 18 D

K E

L K

4A 16 B O

R W

T A K

( A T F M T

PANEL WIRING)

I I

L G D

G P I E $

I S L T S E F O E I L I E

P W v

F M E A F M

TAILGATE

WINDOW LIFT

SWITCH

FUSE

BLOCK

Fig.

8 —Tail Gate Window Lift Switch Wiring—Chrysler

18 TAN-

64 x 675

MyMopar.com

CIRCUITS cm GA

W-l iz

COLOR

TAN

14 YELLOW m* iz

YELLOW

W-3 14 8LACM

-4

14 WHITE

W-ll 14 DAM BLUE

W-UA 14 BLACK

14 PINK wm 14 PINK

W/3 1+ ORANGE

WliA 14 ORANGE

WI3B 14 ORANGE

Wl4

GRAY

WW 14

GRAY

W-2i 14 BROWN mm 14 LIGHT

GREEN

WZ2 14 VIOLET mm

14 VIOLET

W22B 14 VIOLET

W23 14 REP wm 14 REP mm 14 REP

024 14 PARK

GREEN mm

14 PARK GREEN

14 PARK

GREEN

H2A

30 AMPERE

CIRCUIT BREAKER

SEE/MSm/MENT

PANEL HIRING

FOR CIRCUIT

BREAKER FEED

f f

RIGHT FRONT DOOR

-HliA

SNITCH

3

FEED mm m

-HhR-

LEFT FRONT DOOR

MASTER SUITCH

-UI2-

3

-Ml-

H23 H22

•4BW-

—N&B

—L

~93

—

Nil A—

-Ml —C3B—UtfA -

-Nil —E&3—H2IA-

RIGHT FRONT DOOR

MOTOR

DOHN

LEFT FRONT DOOR

MOTOR

-*<

DOHN

INSULATORS VIEWED FROM

TERMINAL

SIDE

RIGHT REAR DOOR

OR QUARTER SWITCH

-HNA

-N4

-551 UP

LjJ

FEED

RIGHT REAR DOOR

OR QUARTER MOTOR

DOHN

-H/4A

—

- ^ Q y — N H A —'

-H24B

—

Ccp-UI/A-

LEFT REAR DOOR SWITCH

—MJA -

—

H3 —

FEED

U23A

DOHN

LEFT REAR DOOR MOTOR

DOUN

H23A

-H23 i— N23B -

LEFT REAR DOOR

OR QUARTER SWITCH

-HI3A-

- H 3 -

FEED

T

H23A

DOHN

- H238 —C3H—NHA

(SO £Qi//PP£0)

LEFT REAR DOOR

OR QUARTER MOTOR

- UI3B

—

C3D

—

MIA -

-H23A -v

(soequipfieo)

63x796

Fig.

9 —Electric Window Lift—Chrysler

i

MyMopar.com

a a c u i T S

CIR. GA

M-l

A 18

M-1B 18

M-2 18

M-2A 18

M-2B 18

M-2C 18

M-2D

M-2E

COLOR

PINK

YELLOW

M-2F 18

M-2G

YELLOW

YELLOW'

YELLOW

18 j YELLOW

M-2H w - r

YELLOW

TO RIGHT

FRONT DOOR

AUTOMATIC -

SWITCH

TO INSTRUMENT

PANEL

WIRING

W-1A

W-1B

W-2 12

W-2A 14

18 YELLOW

12 I TAN

12 j TAN

14 TAN

YELLOW

BLACK

W-2B 12

W-3

W-4

W - l l

W-I1A 14

WHITE

14 ; DARK BLUE

W-12

W-12A 14

BLACK

14 « PINK

PINK

ORANGE

GRAY

W-13 14

W-13A 14

W-14 12

W-14A 14

W-14B 12

W-21 14

W-21A 14

W-22 14

W-22A 14

W-22B 14

W-23 14

W-23A 14

W-23B 14

GRAY

BROWN

GREEN

VIOLET

RED

W-24 12 DARK GREEN

W-24A 14

DARK GREEN

W-30 14

W-30A 14

DARK BLUE

W-30B 14

W-31 14 RED

W-40 14 LIGHT GREEN

W-40B 14

W-41

X-3

X-3A

14 LIGHT GREEN

X-3B

LIGHT GREEN

X-3C

X-3D

14 LIGHT GREEN

X-32 12

X-32B 16

X-32D 16

X-33 12

X-33A 14

i:33'B " 14

X-33C 18

X-330 14

UGHT BLUE

LIGHT BLUE

X-33E 14

X-33F 14

X-33H 14

X-34

ORANGE

ClR. GA.

X-34D 14

X-34E 14

X-34F 14

X-34G 14

X-34H 14

X-35 16

X-35A 16

TO RIGHT FRONT

DOOR LOCK SWITCH

COLOR

PINK

ORANGE

\ FEED

UNLOCK|7T|| LOCK

X-35A

X-34B 14 PINK

X.34C 18

PINK

X-36 16

X-36A 16

PINK

TO RIGHT FRONT DOOR'

WINDOW LIFT SWITCH

TO RIGHT FRONT DOOR

WINDOW LIFT MOTOR

TO RIGHT REAR

WINDOW LIFT SWITCH

Fig. 10—Electric Window Lift, Power Vent, Door Locks a n d Cigar Lighter—Imperial

TO RIGHT REAR

WINDOW LIFT MOTOR

* TO LEFT REAR

X -3A -CQU — CIGAR LIGHTER

TO LEFT REAR DOOR

COURTESY LAMP (SO EQUIPPED)

INSULATORS VIEWED

FROM TERMINAL SIDE

TO LEFT REAR

DOOR LOCK

SOLENOID

(SO EQUIPPED)

MyMopar.com

GROUP

9 ENGINE

CONTENTS

Page

ENGINE 9-1

Page

Model Application

VC-1

VC-2 (Std.)

VC-2 *Optional &

300K Package

VC-2 **300K Optional

VC-3

VY-1

SPECIFICATIONS

Engine Names

Firebolt 265

FirePower 305

FirePower 360

FirePower 390

FirePower 340

Imperial V8

Compression

Ratio

9.1 to 1

10.1 to 1

9.6 to 1

10.1 to 1

Value

Arrangement

O.H.V.

Engine Type & Piston

Displacement

"LB" 361 cubic inch

"LB" 383 cubic inch

"RB" 413 cubic inch

"RB".413 cubic inch

"RB" 413 cubic inch

ENGINE

Type 90°V

Number of C y l i n d e r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Bore VC-1 (361 Cu. In.) 4.125 inch

VC-2 (383 Cu. In.) 4.25 inch

*VC-2, **VC-2, VC-3, VY-1 (413 Cu. In.) 4.19 inch

Stroke VC-1, VC-2 •. 3.375 inch

**VC-2, VC-3, VY-1 3.750 inch

*FirePower 360 engine/ one 4-barrel carburetor, dual exhaust, hydraulic tappets.

**FirePower 390 engine, two 4-barrel carburetors, mechanical tappets, ram induction, dual exhaust.

MyMopar.com

9-2 ENGINE

SPECIFICATIONS— f Continued)

Compression Pressure with Engine Warm, Spark Plugs Removed, Wide Open Throttle at a minimum cranking speed of 1 2 0 rpm for 3 6 1 cubic inch engine Displacement..

1 2 5 - 1 5 5 psi.

At 1 00 rpm for 3 8 3 and 4 1 3 cubic inch engine Displacement . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 3 0 - 1 6 5 psi.

Maximum Variation Between Cylinders—Any One Engine

3 6 1

cubic inch Engine

2 0

psi.

3 8 3

and

4 1 3

cubic inch Engine

2 5

psi.

Firing Order.

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2

Basic Timing except FirePower

3 9 0 1 0 °

B.T.D.C.

FirePower 3 9 0 . 1 2

° B.T.D.C.

CYLINDER NUMBERING (FRONT TO REAR)

Left Bank 1 - 3 - 5 - 7

Right Bank 2 - 4 - 6 - 8

CYLINDER BLOCK

Cylinder Bore (Standard) VC-1

. 1

2 4 5 - 4

. 1

2 6 5

V C - 2 4 . 2 4 9 5 - 4 . 2 5 1 5

V C -2*, V C - 2 * * , V C -3, VY -1 . 4 . 1 8 7 0 - 4 . 1 8 9 0

Cylinder Bore out-of -round (Maximum allowable) .005"

Cylinder Bore Taper (Maximum allowable). .010"

Reconditioning Working Limits (for taper and out-of-round)

. 0 0 1 "

Maximum Allowable Oversize (Cylinder bores)

. 0 4 0 "

Tappet Bore Diameter . 9 0 5 0 - . 9 0 5 8 "

Distributor Lower Drive Shaft Bushing (press fit in cylinder block) . 0 0 0 5 - . 0 0 4 0 "

Ream to . 4 8 6 5 - . 4 8 8 0 "

Shaft to Bushing Clearance. . . . . .

. 0 0 0 7 - . 0 0 2 7 "

CRANKSHAFT

Type Fully Couhter-Balanced

Bearings Steel Backed Babbitt

Journal Diameter (VC

-1,

-2) 2 . 6 2 4 5 to 2 . 6 2 5 5 "

( V C - 2 * V C T 2 * * , V C - 3 , V Y - 1 ) 2 . 7 4 9 5 to 2 . 7 5 0 5 "

Crank Pin Diameter.

2 . 3 7 4 to 2 . 3 7 5 "

Maximum Out-of-Round Permissible

. 0 0 1 "

Number of Main Bearings

Clearance Desired (Bearing Installed I.D. Minus Journal O.D.) . 0 0 0 5 to . 0 0 1 5 "

Maximum Clearance Allowable . 0 0 2 5 "

End Play

. 0 0 2

. 0 0 7 "

Thrust Taken By No.

3 Main Bearing

Finish at Rear Seal Surface. Diagonal Knurling

Interchangeability of Bearings Upper Nos.

2 , 4 , 5

Lower Nos.

1, 2 , 4 , 5

MAIN BEARINGS (Service)

All available in standard and the following undersizes

. 0 0 1 , . 0 0 2 , . 0 0 3 , . 0 1 0 , . 0 1 2 "

*FirePower

3 6 0

engine, one

-barrel carburetor, dual exhaust, hydraulic tappets.

**FirePower

3 9 0

engine, two

-barrel carburetors, mechanical tappets, ram induction, dual exhaust.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-3

SPECIFICATIONS™

C Continued

1

CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS

Type Drop Forged " I " Beam

Length (Center to Center) VC-1, V C - 2 . . . 6.356 to 6.360"

VC-2* VC-2** VC-3,

VY-1

6.766

to 6.770"

Weight (Less Bearing Shells) VC-1, VC-2. 812 ± 4 GMS.

VC-2* VC-2** VC-3,

VY-1

846 ± 4 GMS.

Bearings. Steel Backed Babbitt

Diameter and Length 2.376 x .927"

Clearance Desired (Bearing Installed I.D. Minus Journal O.D.) .0005 to .0015"

Maximum Allowable .0025"

Side Clearance .009 to .017"

Bearings for Service Standard .001, .002, .003,

.010,.012"Undersize

Piston Pin Bore Diameter. 1.0925 to 1.0928"

CAMSHAFT

Drive Chain

Bearings. Steel Backed Babbitt

Number 5

Thrust Taken By Cylinder Block

Clearance Desired (Bearing Installed I.D. Minus Journal O.D.) .001 to .003"

Maximum Allowable .005"

CAMSHAFT BEARING JOURNALS

Diameter

No. 1 1.998 to 1.999"

No.

1.982 to 1.983"

No. 3. 1.967 to 1.968"

No. 4 1.951 to 1.952"

No. 5 1.748 to 1.749"

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

Diameter (after reaming)

No. 1 2.000 to 2.001"

No. 2. 1.984 to 1.985"

No. 3 1.969 to 1.970"

No. 4 1.953 to 1.954"

No. 5 1.750 to 1.751"

TIMING CHAIN

Adjustment. None

Number of Links 50

Pitch. .50"

Width. . . .88"

TAPPETS

Type Hydraulic

Clearance in Cylinder Block .0005 to .0018 inch

Body Diameter .9040 to .9045

Clearance Between Valve Stem and Rocker Arm Pad (Dry Lash). .060-.210 inch

Oversize Available for Service .001, .008, .030 inch

VC-2** only Mechanical

Valve Lash or Tappet Clearance—Engine Cold

Intake. .017"

Exhaust. .028"

Oversize Available for Service .001, .008 inch

*FirePower 360 engine, one 4-barrel carburetor, dual exhaust, hydraulic tappets.

**FirePower 390 engine, two 4-barrel carburetors, mechanical tappets, ram induction, dual exhaust.

MyMopar.com

9-4 ENGINE

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

PISTONS

Type Horizontal Slot w/Steel Struts

Material. . . . Aluminum Alloy Tin Coated

Land Clearance. . . . . . .032" to .040"

Clearance at Top of Skirt. .0003" to .0013"

Weight (Standard Through .040" Oversize)

VC-1, 361 cu. in.. 717 grms.

VC-2, 383 cu. in.. 770 grms.

VC-2* VC-2**, VC-3, VY-1, 413 cu. in 780 grms.

Piston Length (Overall) VC-1 3.81 in.

VC-2 3.84 in.

VC-2* VC-2**, VC-3, VY-1,413 cu. in 3.96 In.

Ring Groove Depth

No. 1—VC-1—361 cu. in .214 in.

VC-2—383 cu. in .220 in.

VC-2*, VC-2**, VC-3, VY-1—413 cu. in .216 in.

No. 2 - ^ C - l — 361 cu. in .214 in.

VC-2—383 cu. in.. .220 i n .

VC-2*, VC-2**, VC-3, VC-1—413 cu. in .216 in.

No. 3—VC-1—361 cu. in .203 in.

VC-2—383 cu. in .208 in.

VC-2*, VC-2**, VC-3, VY-1—413 cu. in. .206 in.

Pistons for Service. Standard, .005", .020",

.040", Oversize

PISTON PINS

Type . Press Fit in Rod

Diameter . 1.0935 to 1.0937"

Length. . . 3.555 to 3.575"

Clearance in Piston .00045 to .00075"

Interference in Rod. .0007 to .0012"

Piston Pins for Service. Standard Only

Direction Offset in Piston Toward Right Side of Engine

PISTON RINGS

Number of Rings per Piston 3

Compression •. 2

O i l . . . . . . 1

Width of Rings

(Compression) .0775 to .0780"

(Oil). .1860 to .1865"

Piston Ring Gap ( a l l ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .013 to ,025"

RING SIDE CLEARANCE

(Compression)

Upper .0015 to .0030" mtermecfiate. . . . .

.77. .7.7777..77777777:77.7.777.77777.777.77. . 7 7 .

~ . 0 0 1 5 to .0030"

(Oil). .0010 to .0030"

*FirePower 360 engine, one 4-barrel carburetor, dual exhaust, hydraulic tappets.

**FirePower 390 engine, two 4-barrel carburetors, mechanical tappets, ram induction, dual exhaust.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-5

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — t C o n t i n u e d )

VALVES—Intake

Material. SAE 1041 Steel

Head Diameter 2.08"

Stem Diameter. .372 to .373"

Stem Oversizes Available for S e r v i c e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Standard, .005, .015, .030"

Stem to Guide Clearance. .001 to .003"

Maximum Allowable Before Reconditioning. , .004"

Angle of Seat. 45°

Adjustment Except VC -2** None

VC -2** only. .017 Cold

Lift All Models Except VC-2* VC-2**. .389"

VC-2* only .430"

VC-2** only. .444"

VALVES—Exhaust

Material Nitrogen Treated Manganese

Chromium Nickel Steel

Head Diameter Except VC-2**. 1.60"

VC-2** only 1.75"

Stem Diameter .371 to .372"

Stem Oversize Available for Service Standard' .005' .015, .030"

Stem to Guide Clearance .002 to .004"

Maximum Allowable Before Reconditioning .006"

Angle of Seat. 45°

Adjustment Except VC -2** None

VC-2** only .028 Cold

Lift All Models Except VC-2* VC -2**.

.389"

V C - 2 * o n l y . . . . .430"

VC-2** only .450"

VALVE SPRINGS VC-1, VC-2, VC-3, VC-2* VC-2**

VY-1

Number 16 16 16

Free Length 2 .34" 2 .34" 2 .21"

Load When Compressed to (Valve Open).... 187-203 lbs. @ 1.470" 187-203 lbs. @ 1.470" 216-234 lbs. @ 1.43"

Valve Springs I.D.. 1.010 to 1.030" 1.070 to 1.090" 1.070 to 1.090"

Surge D a m p e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None Spiral Type Spiral Type

Valve Spring Installed Height Spring Seat to Retainer 1.830to 1.890" 1.830to 1.890" 1.830 to 1.890"

VALVE GUIDES

Type. . v 4 Cast in Head

Guide Bore Diameter .374-.375" std.

CYLINDER HEAD

Number Used 2

Combustion C h a m b e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wedge Type

Valve Seat Runout (maximum) .002"

Intake Valve Seat Angle 45°

Intake Seat Width. .060 to .085"

Exhaust Valve Seat Angle. . . . . . 45°

Exhaust Seat Width .040 to .060"

Cylinder Head Gasket Compressed (thickness). .022"

*FirePower 360 engine, one 4-barrel carburetor, dual exhaust, hydraulic tappets.

**FirePower 390 engine, two 4-barrel carburetors, mechanical tappets, ram induction, dual exhaust.

MyMopar.com

9-6

ENGINE

S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — f C o n t i n u e d )

ENGINE

LUBRICATION

Pump Type Rotor Full Pressure

Capacity (qts.) 5***

Pump D r i v e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Camshaft

Operating Pressure at 40 to 50 mph 45 to 65 lbs.

Oil Filter T y p e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Full Flow

Pressure Drop Resulting from Clogged Filter. 7 to 9 lbs.

***When filter is replaced, add 1 quart.

OIL PUMP INSPECTION LIMITS FOR REPLACEMENT

Oil Pump Cover (filter base) .0015 inch or more

Outer Rotor Length ^ . . . . . . . .943 inch or less

Outer Rotor Diameter. 2.469 inch or less

Inner Rotor Length .942 inch or less

Clearance Over Rotor—Outer. .004 inch or more

Inner. .005 inch or more

Outer Rotor Clearance 012 inch or more

Tip Clearance Between Rotors. .010 Inch or more

Engine

Displacement

361 cu. in.

383 cu. in.

413 cu. in.

O V E R S I Z E A N D UNDERSIZE

ENGINE C O M P O N E N T M A R K I N G S

Condition

.001" U/S Crankshaft

— —

.020" O/S Cylinder Bores

.008" O/S Tappets

.005" O/S Valve Stems

Identification

Maltese Cross

M-2-3 etc. (indicating

§2 & 3 main bearing journal) and/or

R-l-4 etc. (indicating

#1 & 4 connecting rod journals)

Diamond

O.S.

Location of

Identification

Top Pad—Front of Engine

Crankshaft Counterweight

Top Pad—Front of Engine

Top Pad—Front of engine

Single Bolt Boss on End of the Head

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-7

SPECIAL T O O L S

C-119 Cylinder Bore Indicator

C-385 Piston Ring Compressor

C-647 .Valve Spring Testing Fixture

C-756 Valve Guide Cleaner

C - 8 2 3 . . . . . . . . . . Cylinder Bore Resizing Hone with 390 extensions necessary with

383 and 413 cu. in. engines

C-897 .Core Hole Plug Driver

C-3012 Cylinder Ridge Reamer

C-3025 . . . . . Intake Valve Guide Wear Checking Sleeve

C-3026 Exhaust Valve Guide Wear Checking Sleeve

C-3028 Tappet Bore Reamer

C-3052 Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller

C-3053 Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Installer-Burnisher

C-3054 Spark Plug Socket

C-3059. .Main Bearing Upper Shell Remover and Replacer

C-3068 Tappet and Push Rod Carrier

C-3132A. Camshaft Bearing Remover and Replacer

C-3160 Tappet Checking Pliers

C-3167 Engine Repair Stand

C-3221 Piston and Connecting Rod Remover and Replacer

C-3339. . . . . . . D i a l Indicator

C-3422A Valve Spring Compressor

C-3427. Valve Guide Reamer (.030'" O.S.)

C-3430 .Valve Guide Reamer (.015" O.S.)

C-3433. Valve Guide Reamer (.005" O.S.)

C-3466. . . . . . . . Engine Lifting Plate

C-3487. Engine Support Fixture

C-3501 Cylinder Bore Surfacing Hone

C-3506 .Chain Case Cover Oil Seal Remover and Replacer

C-3509 . . . . Camshaft Gear Installer

C-3625 . . . .Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer (361 and 383 cubic inch engine)

(t-36l& Cylinder Head Holding Fixtures

G-3628 4 > . Piston Ring Recover and Replacer (361 cubic inch engine)

C-3648. .'. .Valve Stem Length Gauge

C-3661. Tappet Remover

C-3662 Engine Repair Stand Adapter

C-3684 Piston Pin Remover and Replacer

C-3688 Engine Front End Puller Kit

C - 3 8 4 5 . . . . . Oil Filter Remover

C-3743. Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Installer (413 cubic inch engine)

MyMopar.com

9

-8

ENGINE

A/C Compressor to Engine B o l t . . . . . . .

Alternator Adjusting Strap Bolt.

Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting Bolt

Alternator Bracket to Manifold Bolt

Alternator Mounting Nut

Camshaft Lockbolt.

Carburetor to Manifold Nut.

Connecting Rod N u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder Head Bolt

Chain Case Cover Bolt

Clutch Housing Bolt

Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal Retainer

Crankshaft B o l t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder Head Cover Stud and Nut . . . .

Distributor Clamp Bolt

Engine Front Mounting to Frame Bolt

Engine Front Mounting to Block Nut

Engine Front Mounting to Frame S t u d . . . . . .

Exhaust Manifold N u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Exhaust Pipe Flange Nut

Exhaust Pipe Clamp Bolt

Exhaust Pipe Support Clamp Bolt..

Fan Attaching Bolt

Fan Belt Idler Pulley N u t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fan Belt Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt

Fuel Pump Attaching Bolt

Intake Manifold Bolt

Main Bearing Cap Bolt.

Manifold Heat Control Counterweight Bolt. .

Oil Pan Drain Plug

Oil Pan Bolt

Oil Pump Cover Bolt

Oil Pump Attaching Bolt

Oil Filter Attaching Stud

Rocker Shaft Bracket Bolt.

Spark Plug.

Starter Mounting Bolt.

Torque Converter Housing Bolt

Transmission Case to Block

Vibration Damper Bolt.

Valve Tappet Cover End Bolt.

Water Pump to Housing Bolt

Water Pump Housing to Cylinder Block Bolt.

TORQUE

REFERENCE

Torque

Foot-Pounds

135

50 in.-lbs.

25-30

40 in.-lbs.

1-18

Thread

Size

%-16

At-20

'/j-13

%-16 fo-20

%-24

5it-18

JW-20

%-16

14-13

No.

10-32

%-18

8 ffe-18

%-16

14 MM flt-14

%-16

?fe-18

V4-20

%-16

*fe-18

%-16

H«-14

*k-24

JU-14

5i«-24

%-24

JU-14 ffa-18

%-16

V4-18

*fe-18

'/2 -20

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-9

ENGINE

The various engine model applications are as follows:

VC-1

VC-2

VC-2*

VC-2**

VC-3,

361 cubic inch

383 cubic inch (std.)

413 cubic inch (optional & 300K package)

413 cubic inch (300K optional)

413 cubic inch engine

The engines have the same basic design, equipped with valves in head, having a wedge shaped combustion chamber. (Figs. 1 and 2). They differ in piston displacement, bore diameter and length of stroke, power output and carburetor equipment.

The 361 cubic inch displacement engine uses regular grade fuel. The 383 and 413 cubic inch displacement engines use premium grade fuel.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. TUNE-UP

(1) Test the battery specific gravity, add water if necessary, clean and tighten the battery connections.

(2) Test the cranking voltage if below 9.6 volts and more than 130 amperes draw. See Starting Motor

Cranking Voltage Electrical Section of* this manual.

(3) Tighten the intake manifold bolts to 50 footpounds torque.

(4) Perform the cylinder compression test. The compression should not vary more than 20 pounds for 361 cubic inch engine, 25 pounds for 383 and

413 cubic inch engine.

(5) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and adjust gap to .035 inch. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque using new gaskets.

(6) Test the resistance of the spark plug cables. If resistance is more than 30,000 ohms replace the cable.

(7) Remove the distributor. Clean the cap and rotor. Inspect for carbon tracking, cracks and corrosion. Inspect the breaker plate,' points, lead wire and

Fig.

1— 'Front End Sectional V i e w

59x54A

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9-10 ENGINE vacuum advance, replace if necessary. Adjust to specifications. Test coil and condenser.

(8) Install the distributor, distributor cap, and spark plug cables. Reset the ignition timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected. The ignition timing should be set to compensate for altitudes and/or gasolne grades as follows:

A. At low altitudes, with any good grade of the recommended gasoline, either "regular" or "premium", the engine will give its best performance if timed according to specifications.

B. At high altitudes or when using higher quality gasoline, for example "premium" where "regular" is specified or "super premium" where premium is specified, there is less tendency for spark ping. In such cases, improved performance may be obtained by advancing the spark not to exceed 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation ahead of specified timing.

C. When using lower grade fuels, or after carbon has accumulated, objectionable spark ping may occur with the specified timiiig. In cases of this nature, ignition timing should be retarded, but not to exceed 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation later than specified.

NOTE: It is recommended, however, that vehicles operating at high speeds or hauling trailers have ignition timing set at not over the specified setting.

D. Within the foregoing limits, namely, from 5 degrees ahead to 5 degrees later than specified timing, a good rule to follow is to advance the spark until a slight ping is heard when accelerating from 15 mph in direct drive at wide open throttle.

(9) Set carburetor idle mixture adjustment. Adjust the throttle stop screw to specifications. Perform a combustion analysis.

(10) Test the fuel pump for pressure and vacuum.

Refer to "Fuel System" Group 14, Specifications.

(11) Inspect the manifold heat control valve in the right exhaust manifold for proper operation and apply

Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent Number 1879318 to the bushing and shafts.

(12) Every 6 months, remove filter element and

Fig. 2—Left Side Sectional View

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ENGINE 9-11

(10) Remove the engine rear support crossmember and remove the transmission from the vehicle.

(11) Lower the vehicle and attach the chain hoist to the fixture eyebolt.

(12) Remove the engine front mounting bolts.

Raise the engine with a chain hoist and work the engine out of the chassis.

(13) Place the engine in repair stand Tool C-3167 and adapter C-3662 for disassembly, using transmission mounting bolts.

3 . INSTALLING THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY

(In V e h i c l e )

60X861

Fig.

3 — C l e a n i n g Filter Element Using

Compressed Air blow out dirt gently with air hose. Direct air from inside out, and keep nozzle 2 inches away from element to avoid damaging. Clean the metal housing and replace the element. Every 32,000 miles, install a new factory recommended MoPar filter element.

Service the unit more frequently when driving under severe conditions, such as in dusty areas (Fig. 3).

(13) Inspect and adjust the accessory belt drives referring to "Cooling System" Group 7 for proper adjustments.

(14) Road test the vehicle as a final check.

2 . R E M O V A L O F THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY

( F r o m V e h i c l e )

(1) Scribe the outline of the hinge brackets on the hood to assure proper adjustments when installing.

(2) Remove the hood.

(3) Drain the cooling system and remove the battery.

(4) Remove all hoses, the fan shroud, disconnect the oil cooler lines and remove the radiator.

(5) Disconnect the fuel lines and wires attached to engine units. Remove the air cleaner and carburetor.

(6) Attach the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to carburetor flange studs on the intake manifold.

(7) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and install the engine support fixture Tool C-3487 on the frame to support the rear of the engine.

(8) Drain the transmission and the torque converter.

(9) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifolds, propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, and the oil cooler lines at the transmission.

(1) Attach the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to the carburetor flange studs on the intake manifold.

(2) Attach the chain hoist to the fixture eyebolt.

(3) Remove the engine from the repair stand and lower the engine carefully until engine is positioned in the vehicle.

(4) Install the engine support fixture Tool C-3487 on the frame and adjust to support the rear of the engine.

(5) Remove the chain hoist from the fixture eyebolt.

(6) Raise the vehicle on the hoist and install and tighten the engine front support mounting bolts.

(7) Install the transmission and the engine rear support crossmember.

(8) Lower the engine into position and install the engine rear support crossmember bolts. Remove the engine support fixture Tool C-3487 from the frame.

(9) Connect the propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, oil cooler lines at the transmission, connect the exhaust pipes to the manifold using new gaskets.

Install the transmission filler tube.

(10) Lower the vehicle and install the radiator, fan shroud, hoses, oil cooler lines and connect all wires and linkage.

(11) Remove the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 from the intake manifolds and install the carburetor and fuel lines. Connect the throttle linkage.

(12) Install the hood, using scribe marks for proper alignment.

(13) Close all drain cocks and fill the cooling system.

(14) Fill the engine crankcase and transmission.

Refer to "Lubrication" Group O for quantities and lubricants to use and check entire system for leaks and correct as necessary.

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9-12 ENGINE

N O T E : W h e n e v e r an engine i s rebuilt a n d a n e w c a m s h a f t a n d / o r n e w tappets a r e i n s t a l l e d , a d d o n e q u a r t of factory r e c o m m e n d e d oil additive to engine oil to a i d break-in ( E n g i n e O i l A d d i t i v e No.

1879406).

T h e oil m i x t u r e should be left in t h e engine f o r a m i n i m u m of 500 miles, a n d drained at t h e next n o r m a l oil c h a n g e .

(15) Start the engine and run until normal operating temperature is reached.

(16) Inspect the ignition timing and adjust the carburetor as necessary.

(17) Adjust the accelerator and transmission linkages. Road test the vehicle.

4 .

ROCKER A R M S A N D SHAFT ASSEMBLY

The rocker arms are of stamped steel and are arranged on one rocker arm shaft, per cylinder head.

The push rod angularity tends to force the pairs of rocker arms toward each other where oilite spacers carry the side thrust at each rocker arm. The rocker shaft is held in place by bolts and stamped steel retainers attached to the five brackets on the cylinder head.

Removal

(1) Remove the cylinder head cover and gasket.

(2) Remove the rocker shaft bolts and retainers and remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(3) If the rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection, or replacement, refer to Figure 4 for proper reassembly.

Installation

(1) Install the rocker arms and shaft assembly making sure to install the long stamped steel retainers in the number two and four positions.

(2) Install the rocker shafts so that the 3/16 inch diameter rocker arm lubrication holes point down-

LUBRICATION HOLES

RIGHT BANK LEFT BANK

Fig. 5 — Rocker Arm Lubrication Holes ward into the rocker arm, so that the 15° angle of these holes point outward towards the valve end of the rocker arms, as shown in Figure 5. This is necessary to provide proper lubrication to the rocker assemblies.

NOTE: T h e 1 5 ° a n g l e of t h e r o c k e r a r m l u b r i cation holes i s d e t e r m i n e d f r o m t h e c e n t e r line of t h e bolt holes t h r o u g h t h e shaft w h i c h a r e used to a t t a c h t h e shaft a s s e m b l y to t h e c y l i n d e r h e a d .

N O T E : U s e e x t r e m e c a r e i n tightening t h e bolts so that tappets have t i m e to bleed d o w n to t h e i r opera t i n g l e n g t h . B u l g e d t a p p e t bodies, tent p u s h rods a n d p e r m a n e n t noisy operation m a y r e s u l t if t h e tappets a r e f o r c e d d o w n too r a p i d l y .

(3) Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

Fig. 4 —Rocker Arm Assemblies Installed

5 .

CYLINDER HEADS

The chrome alloy cast iron cylinder heads are held in place by 17 bolts. The spark plugs enter the cylinder head horizontally and are located at the wide edge of the combustion chambers.

Removal

(1) Drain the cooling system.

(2) Remove the alternator, carburetor and air cleaner and the fuel line.

(3) Disconnect the accelerator linkage.

(4) Remove the vacuum control tube at the carburetor and distributor.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9 -13

(5) Disconnect the distributor cap, coil wires and the heater hose.

(6) Disconnect the heat indicator sending unit wire.

(7) Remove the spark plugs.

(8) Remove the intake manifold, ignition coil and the carburetor as an assembly.

(9) Remove the tappet chamber cover.

(10) Remove the cylinder head covers and gaskets.

NOTE: On air conditioned cars, rotate the crankshaft until the number eight cylinder exhaust valve is open, to allow clearance to remove the right bank cylinder head cover and the heater housing.

(11) Remove the exhaust manifolds.

(12) Remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(13) Remove the push rods and place them in their respective slots in holder Tool C-3068.

(14) Remove the 17 head bolts from each cylinder head and remove the cylinder heads.

(15) Place the cylinder head in holding fixture

Tool C-3626.

Installation

(1) Clean the gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head. Remove all burrs from the edges of fthe cylinder heads.

(2) Inspect all the surfaces with a straightedge if there is any reason to suspect leakage.

(3) Coat the new gaskets with a suitable sealer,

MoPar Number 1122893. Install the gaskets and cylinder heads.

(4) Install the cylinder head bolts. Starting at the top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 50 footpounds torque in sequence, as shown in Figure 6.

Repeat the procedure, tightening all head bolts to

70 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Inspect the push rods and replace any worn or bent rods.

(6) Install the push rods with the small ends in the tappets maintaining alignment, using rod, as shown in Figure 7.

(7) Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly starting each push rod into its respective rocker arm socket (Fig. 4) making sure to install the long stamped steel retainers in the number two and four positions.

NOTE: Use extreme care in tightening belts to

foot-pounds torque

so the tappets have time to bleed

down to their

operating length.

Bulged

tappet bodies, bent push rods, and permanently noisy operation may result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

(8) Place the new cylinder head gasket in position and install the cylinder head covers. Tighten the nuts to 40-inch pounds torque.

(9) Install the exhaust manifolds and tighten the nuts to 30 foot-pounds torque.

(10) Adjust the spark plugs to .035

inch gap and install the plugs, tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque with Tool C-3054.

(11) Install a new tappet chamber cover and tighten the end bolts to 9 foot-pounds torque.

(12) Install the intake manifold, carburetor and ignition coil as an assembly and tighten the manifold bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque.

(13) Install the distributor cap.

Connect th§ coil wire, heat indicator sending unit wire, accelerator linkage, spark plug cables and the insulators.

(14) Install the vacuum tube from the carburetor to the distributor.

(15) Install the alternator and drive belts. Tighten the alternator bracket bolts to 30 foot-pounds, and the alternator mounting nut to 20 foot-pounds torque.

F i g . e— Cylinder H e a d T i g h t e n i n g Sequence

Fig. 7 — P u s h Rods Installed

9 -14 ENGINE

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Fig.

10— Measuring Guide Wear Using Tool C-3339

Fig.

3 —Compressing Valve Spring Using

(16) Install the fuel line and the carburetor air cleaner.

(17) M l the cooling system. Adjust the belt tensions as outlined in "Cooling System" Group 7.

6. VALVES AND

- V A L V E

SPRINGS

The valves are arranged in-line in the cylinder heads and inclined 30 degrees outward from vertical.

The intake and exhaust valves operate in guides that are cast integral with the heads.

Removal

Tool C-3422A

(1) With the cylinder head removed, compress the

Fig. 9—Measuring Valve Stem Guide Clearance

Using, Tool C-3026 valve springs, using Tool C-3422A, as shown in Figure

(2) Remove the valve retaining locks, valve spring retainers, valve stem cup seals and the valve springs.

(3) Remove any burrs from the valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the valve guide when the valves are removed.

Valve inspection

(1) Clean the valves thoroughly, and discard any burned, warped or cracked valves.

(2) Measure the valve stems for wear. The intake valve stem diameter should measure .372 to .373 inch and the exhaust valve stem diameter should measure

.371 to .372 inch. If the wear exceeds .002 inch, replace the valve.

(3) Remove the carbon and varnish deposits from the inside of the valve guides with cleaner, Tool C-756.

(4) Measure the valve stem guide clearance as follows: Install sleeve Tool C-3026 over the valve stem, as shown in Figure 9, and install valve.

(5) The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for measuring with a dial indicator. Attach the dial indicator Tool C-3339 to the cylinder head and set it at right angle of the value stem being measured (Fig. 10).

(6) Move the valve to and from the indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed .010 inch on the intake valves, and .014 inch on the exhaust valves. Ream the guides for new valves with oversize stems if the dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scored or worn excessively.

(7) Service valves with oversize stems are available in .005, .015 and .030 inch oversizes. Reamers to accommodate the oversize valve stem are as follows: Reamer Tool C-3443 (.379 to .380 inch), Reamer

Tool C-3430 (.389 to .390 inch), Reamer Tool C-3427

(.404 to .405 inch).

MyMopar.com

ENGINE 9-15

(8) Slowly turn the reamer by hand and clean the guide thoroughly before installing new valves.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to ream the valve guides from standard directly to .030 inch. Use step procedure of .005, .015 and .030 inch so the original valve guide centers may be maintained.

Refacing the Valves and Valve Seats

The intake and exhaust valve faces have a 45 degree angle. Always inspect the remaining valve margin after the valves are refaced (Fig. 11). Valves with less than 3/64 inch margin should be discarded.

(1) The angle of both the valve and seat should be identical. When refacing the valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete valve seat surface must be obtained.

(2) Inspect the valve seat with Prussion blue to determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do this, coat the valve seat lightly with Prussian blue, then set the valve in place. Rotate the valve with light pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of the valve face, the contact is satisfactory. If the blue is tranferred to the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat with a 30° stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face raise the valve seat with a 60° stone.

(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seats should be 1/16 to 3/32 inch. The width of the exhaust seats should be 3/64 to 1/16 inch.

(4) Measure the concentricity of the valve seat using dial indicator No. 13725. The total runout should not exceed .003 inch (total indicator reading).

(5) When the valves and seats are reground, the position of the valve in the cylinder head is changed, shortening the operating length of the hydraulic

Fig. 11—Intake and Exhaust Valve Faces

MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT 58x144 B

Fig. 12—Measuring Valve Stem Length Using

Tool C-3648 tappet. This means that the plunger is operating closer to its "bottomed" position, and less clearance is available for thermal expansion of valve mechanism during high speed driving.

(6) The design of the valve mechanism includes a safety factor to allow for a limited amount of wear, and the refacing of the valves and seats.

(7) To insure that the limits have not been exceeded, the dimension from the valve spring seat in the head to the valve tip should be measured with gauge, Tool C-3648, as shown in Figure 12.

(8) The end of the cylindrical gauge and the bottom of the slotted area represent the maximum and minimum allowable extension of the valve stem tip beyond the spring seat.

(9) If the tip exceeds the maximum, grind the stem tip to within the gauge limits. Clean the tappets if tip grinding is required.

Testing the Valve Springs

(1) Whenever the valves are removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs should be tested. To test a spring, determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is 1-15/32 inches. Turn the table of Tool C-647 until the surface is in line with the 1-15/32 inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front.

Place the spring over the stud on the table and lift the compressing lever to set the tone device. Pull on the torque wrench until a ping is heard. Take the reading on the torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. The valve springs should test 187 to 203 pounds when compressed to 1-15/32 inch. Refer to specifications to obtain specified height and minimum allowable tension. Discard the springs that do not meet specifications.

9-16 ENGINE

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Pig. 13 — Inspecting Valve Spring Squareness

Fig.

— Installing Valve and Cup Seals

(2) Inspect each valve spring for squareness at both ends with a steel square and surface plate, as shown in Figure 13.

(3) If the spring is more than 1/16 inch out of square, install a new spring. than

57/64 inches, install a 1/16 inch spacer in the head counterbore to bring the spring height back to normal 1 53/64 to 1 57/64 inch.

(If

spacers are installed, measure

from

the top

the spacer.) fnsfoffaffofi

(1) Coat the valve stems with lubricating oil and insert them in position in the cylinder head.

(2) Install new cup seals on the intake and exhaust valve stems and over the valve guides, as shown in Figure 14 and 15 and install the valve springs and retainers.

(3) Compress the valve springs with Tool C-3422A

Install the locks and release tool.

NOTE: If the valves and/or seats are reground, measure the installed height of the springs. Make sure the measurement is taken from the bottom of the spring seat in the cylinder head to

the bottom surface of the spring retainer.

the height is greater

7 . H Y D R A U L I C TAPPETS

Preliminary to Checking the Hydraulic Tappets

(1) Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, read the oil pressure at the gauge and check the oil level in the oil pan. The pressure should be between 45 and 65 pounds at 40 to 50 m.p.h.

(2) The oil level in the pan should never be above the "full" mark on the dipstick, or below the "add oil" mark. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.

O i l Level Too High

(3) If the oil level is above the "full" mark on the dipstick, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while the engine is running and create foam. Foam in the oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow the valves to seat noisily.

Fig. 14—Valve Assembly (Disassembled View)

O i l Level Too Low

(4) Low oil level may allow the oil pump to take in air which, when fed to the tappets, causes them to lose length and allows the valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on the intake side of the pump through which air can be drawn will create the same tappet action.

When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When the oil level and leaks have been corrected, the engine should be operated at fast idle for sufficient time to allow all of the ah inside of the tappets to be bled out.

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ENGINE 9 - 1 7

Tappet Noise Diagnosis

(1) To determine the source of tappet noise, operate the engine at idle with the cylinder head covers removed.

(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect the noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.

NOTE; Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets.

such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet.

(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from a light noise to a heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive leakdown around the unit plunger which will necessitate replacing the tappet, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.

A heavy click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between the plunger and the tappet body, causing the plunger to stick in the down position.

This heavy click w i l be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and the r^Cker arm as the valve closes. In either case, the tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.

Fig. 16 — Removing Tappet Using Tool G-3661

CAUTION: The plunger and tappet bodies are not interchangeable.

The plunger and valve must always be fitted to the original body. It is advisable to work on one tappet at a time to avoid mixing of parts. Mixed parts are net compatible.

Do not disassemble a tappet on a dirty work bench.

Disassembly {Fig 17)*

(1) Pry out the plunger retainer spring clip.

(2) Clean the varnish deposits from the inside of the tappet body above the plunger cap.

(3) Invert the tappet body and remove the plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and the plunger spring.

(4)

Separate the plunger, check valve retainer and

Tappet Removal

(1) The tappet can be removed without removing the intake manifold or the cylinder heads by following this recommended procedure: Remove the cylinder head covers.

(2) Remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(3) Remove the push rods and plkee them in their respective holes in Tool C-3068.

(4)

Slide the puller Tool G-3661 through the push rod opening in tlie cylinder head and seat the tool firmly in the head of the tappet.

(5) Pull the tappet out of the bore with a twisting motion^ as shown In Figure 16.

If all tappets are to be removed, remove the hydraulic tappets and place them in their respective holes in the tappet and push rod holder, Tool C-3068.

This will insure installation of the tappets in their original locations.

NOTE:

diamond shaped marking stamped on the engine numbering pad indicates that all tappet bodies are

. 0 0 8

inch oversize. f V P L U N G E R R E T A I N I N G S P R I N G CLIP

/ / % * P L U N G E R C A P

Fig. 1 7 — H y d r a u l i c Tappet Assembly

(Disassembled View)

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9-18 ENGINE check valve spring. Place all parts in their respective place in the tappet holder, Tool C-3068.

Cleaning and Assembly

(1) Clean all the tappet parts in a solvent that will remove all varnish and carbon.

(2) Replace the tappets that are unfit for further service with new assemblies.

(3) If the plunger shows signs of scoring or wear and the valve is pitted, or if the valve seat on the end of the plunger indicates any condition that would prevent the valve from seating, install a new tappet assembly.

(4) Assemble the tappets, as shown in Figure 17.

Fig. 19 — Removing Vibration Damper Assembly

Using Tool C-3688

Testing

(1) Fill a pan with clean kerosene.

(2) Remove the cap from the plunger and completely submerge the tappet in an upright position.

(3) Allow the tappet to fill with kerosene, remove the tappet, and replace the cap.

(4) Hold the tappet in an upright position and insert the lower jaw of pliers, Tool C-3160, in the groove of the tappet body (Fig. 18).

(5) Engage the jaw of the pliers with the top of the tappet plunger. Test leakdown by compressing the pliers. If the plunger collapses almost instantly as pressure is applied, disassemble the tappet, clean and test again (Fig. 19).

(6) If the tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet assembly.

Inspection

If the tappet or bore in the cylinder block is scored, scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to next oversize, using Tool C-3028.

Installation

(1) Lubricate the tappets.

(2) Install the tappets and push rods in their original positions.

(3) Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly.

(4) Start and operate the engine. Warm up to normal operating temperature.

C A U T I O N : To prevent damage to valve mechanism, the engine must not be run above fast idle until all of the hydraulic tappets have filled with oV and have become quiet.

8 .

MECHANICAL TAPPETS

( F i r e P o w e r 3 9 0 O n l y )

(1) Adjust the intake rocker arms to .017 inch clearance and the exhaust rocker arms to .028 inch clearance cold.

Fig. 18

—

Testing Tappet Using Tool C-3ID60

9. V A L V E TIMING

( A l l M o d e l s E x c e p t F i r e P o w e r 3 9 0 )

(1) Turn crankshaft until the No. 6 exhaust valve is closing and the No, 6 intake valve is opening.

(2) Insert a 4 4 inch spacer between the rocker arm pad and the stem tip of the No. 1 intake valve (second valve on the left bank).

(3) Install a dial indicator so that the plunger contacts the valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as possible.

(4) Allow the spring load to bleed the tappet down giving in effect a solid tappet. Zero the indicator.

(5) Turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal rumiing direction) until the intake valve has lifted .013 inch on standard engines and .034 inch on high performance engines. The timing on the timing indicate] located on the chain case coyer, should read from 10

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ENGINE 9-19 degrees BTDC to 2 degrees ATDC. If the reading is iot within the specified limits: Inspect the timing sprocket index marks, inspect the timing chain for wear, and determine the accuracy of the DC mark on the timing indicator. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the valve is closed and remove the spacer.

C A U T I O N : D o not t u r n t h e c r a n k s h a f t a n y f u r t h e r c l o c k w i s e , a s t h e v a l v e s p r i n g m i g h t bottom a n d r e s u l t in s e r i o u s d a m a g e .

1 0 . V A L V E T I M I N G ( F i r e P o w e r 3 9 0 )

(1) Rotate the crankshaft until the # 6 exhaust valve is closing and the # 6 intake is opening. Turn the rocker arm adjusting screw down to zero clearance plus % turn on No. 1 intake valve. Install the dial indicator so that the indicator pointer contacts the retainer as near to the 90° angle as possible. Adjust the dial indicator to zero.

(2) Turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until the valve has lifted .033

inch. The timing pointer should read 10° B.T.D.C. to 2°

A.T.D.C.

(3) If the reading is not within the above specified limits: Note the sprocket index marks. Inspect the

*ming chain for wear. Determine the accuracy of the

)J& mark on the vibration damper.

(4) Remove the dial indicator, back off the adjusting scrfew, adjust the valve clearance to specifications cold.

1 1 . T I M I N G SPROCKETS A N D C H A I N

R e m o v a l

(1) Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator and water pump assembly.

(2) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper attaching bolt.

(3) Remove two of the pulley bolts, install Tool

C-3688, and pull the damper assembly off the end of crankshaft, as shown in Figure 19.

(4) Remove the chain cover and gasket.

(5) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger off the end of the crankshaft.

Testing Timing Chain for Stretch

(1) Place a scale next to the timing chain so that any movement of the chain may be measured.

(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over the

^mshaft sprocket attaching bolt and apply torque x the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up the slack; 30 foot-pounds torque (with cylinder heads in-

Fig.

20— Measuring Chain Stretch stalled) or 15 foot-pounds torque (cylinder heads removed).

(3) Holding a scale with dimensional reading even with edge of a chain link, apply torque in the reverse direction 30 foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) or 15 foot-pounds (cylinder heads removed), and note the amount of chain movement, as shown in Figure 20.

(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds

inch:

NOTE: W i t h a torque applied to t h e c a m s h a f t s p r o c k e t bolt, t h e c r a n k s h a f t should not be p e r m i t t e d to m o v e . If m a y b e n e c e s s a r y to block t h e c r a n k s h a f t to p r e v e n t rotation.

(5) If the chain is satisfactory, slide the crankshaft oil slinger over the shaft and up against the sprocket

(flange away from the sprocket).

(6) H the chain is not satisfactory, remove the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt.

(7) Remove the timing chain with the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

Installation

(1) Place both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.

(2) Place the timing chain around both sprockets.

(3) Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the keyway location on the crankshaft sprocket and the dowel holes in the camshaft sprocket.

(4) Lift the sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against the chain in position as described).

(5) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts.

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9-20 ENGINE

PULLER SCREW (TOOL)

REMOVING A N D

INSTALLING PLATE

(TOOL)

SLEEVE (TOOL)

CRANKSHAFT'

SPROCKET

58x153

58x150

Fig. 21—Inspecting Alignment of Timing Marks

Using a Straight Edge

Fig, 23 — Removing the Oil Seal

(6) Use a straight edge to measure alignment of the timingjoaarks (Fig. 21).

(7) Install the washer and camshaft sprocket bolt and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

1 2 , T I M I N G C H A I N CASE COVER

OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

( C o v e r R e m o v e d f r o m E n g i n e )

R e m o v a l

(1) Position the puller screw of Tool C-3506 through the case cover, the inside of the case cover up. Position the puller blocks directly opposite each other, and force the angular lip between the neoprene and flange of the seal retainer.

(2) Place t M washer and nut on puller screw.

Tighten the nut as tight as possible by hand, forcing the blocks into gap to a point of distorting the seal retainer lip (Fig. 22). This is important (puller is only positioned at this point).

Installmtiom of the Off Seof

(1) Insert the puller screw through the removing and installing plate so that the thin shoulder will be facing up.

(2) Insert the puller screw with the plate throug tfce

seal opening (inside of the chain case cover facing up).

(3) Place the seal in the cover opening, with the neoprene down. Place the seal installing plate into the new seal* with the protective fic6ss toward lip of the seal retainer (Fig. 24).

NOTE: The lip

the neoprene

seal

must be toward

source of

oil.

PULLER BLOCKS (TOOL)

INSTALLING

PLATE

(TOOL)

CHAIN CASE COVER

LIP OF SEAL

RETAINER

(3) Place the sleeve over the retainer and place the removing and installing plate into the sleeve.

(4) Place the flat washer and nut on the puller screw. Hold the center screw and tighten the ptiller nut to remove the seal (Fig. 23).

58x152

Fig. 22—Removing Timing Chain Case Cover Oil

Seal Using Tool C -3506

SEAL

ASSEMBLY

PULLER SCREW

(TOOL)

CHAIN CASE COVER

58x154

Fig. 24—Positioning Installer Plate on

New Seal

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PULLER SCREW (TOOL)

ENGINE 9-21

CHAIN CASE COVER

TIMING INDICATOR

CYLINDER BLOCK

TIMING MARK

VIBRATION DAMPER

58x157A

-INSTALLING PLATE

(TOOL)

Fig. 27—Installing Vibration Damper Assembly-

SEAL

RETAINER

CHAIN CASE COVER crankshaft, and slide the vibration damper on the

58x155

Fig. 25~lnstaliing a New Seal

(4) Install the flat washer and nut on the puller screw, hold screw and tighten the nut (Fig. 25).

(5) The seal is properly installed when the neoprene is tight against the face of the cover. Try to insert a .0015 inch feeler gauge between the neoprene and the cover (Fig. 26). If the seal is installed properly, the feeler gauge cannot be inserted.

NOTE: It is normal f® find particles of neoprene collected between the seal retainer and the crankshaft oil slinger after the seal has been in operation. crankshaft.

(2) Place the installing tool, part of puller set

Tool C-3688 in position and press the damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 27).

(3) Install the damper retainer washer and holt.

Tighten to 135 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Slide the belt pulley over the shaft and attach with bolts and lockwashers.

(5) Tighten the bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.

Installing the Chain Case Cover

(1) Be sure the mating surfaces of the chain case cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs.

(2) Using a new gasket slide the chain case cover over the locating dowels. Install and tighten bolts

15 foot-pounds torque.

Installing Vibration Damper

(1) Place the damper hub key in the slot in the

13. CAMSHAFT

The camshaft has an integral oil pump and distributor drive gear and fuel pump eccentric, as shown in

Figure 28.

The rearward camshaft thrust is taken by the rear face of the cast iron camshaft sprocket hub, bearing directly on the front of the cylinder block, eliminating the need for a thrust plate. The load of the helical oil pump and distributor drive gear and the camshaft lobe taper both tend to provide a rearward thrust.

Removal

(1) With the tappets and the timing chain and sprockets removed, remove the distributor and lift out the oil pump and distributor drive shaft.

BOLT

WASHER

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET CAMSHAFT

CHAIN CASE COVER ,,.„,..„„

Fig. 26—Inspecting the Seal for Proper Seating

-DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

^ (CAMSHAFT)

FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC (CAMSHAFT)

LOCATING DOWEL

58x158

Fig. 28—Camshaft and Sprocket Assembly

(Disassembled)

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9-22

ENGINE

of factory recommended oil additive MoPar Part

Number 1879406 should be added to the engine oil to aid in break-in. The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles. Drain the oil mixture at the next normal oil change.

NOTE: Whenever the camshaft is replaced, all of the tappet faces must be inspected for crown with a straight edge. If any contact surface is dished or worn, the tappet must be replaced.

Fig. 29—Camshaft Holding Tool C-3509

(2) Remove the fuel pump to allow the fuel pump push rod to drop away from the cam eccentric.

(3) Remove the camshaft, being careful not to damage the camshaft bearings with the cam lobes.

Installation

(1) Lubricate the camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert the camshaft to within

2 inches of its final position in the cylinder block.

(2) Modify Tool C-3509 by grinding off the index lug holding the upper arm on the tool and rotate the arm 180 degrees.

(3) Install Tool C-3509 in place of the distributor drive gear and shaft, as shown in Figure 29.

(4) Hold the tool in position with the distributor lock plate screw. This tool will restrict the camshaft from being pushed in too far and prevent knocking out the welch plug in the rear of the cylinder block.

The tool should remain installed until the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain have been installed.

NOTE: Whenever an engine is rebuilt and a new camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, one quart

1 4 . CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

Removal

(1) With the engine completely disassembled, drive out the rear camshaft bearing welch plug.

(2) Install the proper size adapters and horse shoe washers (part of Tool C-3132A) at the back of each bearing to be removed and drive out the bearings

(Fig. 30).

Installation

(1) Install the new camshaft bearings with Tool

C-3132A. Place the new camshaft bearing over the proper adapter.

(2) Position the bearing in the tool. Install the horse shoe lock and by reversing the removal procedure, carefully drive bearing into place, as shown in

Figure 30.

(3) Install the remaining bearings in like manner.

NOTE: Install the No. 1 camshaft bearing 1/32" inward from the front face of the cylinder block.

The oil holes in the camshaft bearings and the cylinder block must be in exact register to insure proper lubrication (Fig. 30).

The camshaft bearing index can be inspected after installation by inserting a pencil flashlight in the

Fig. 30—Removing the Camshaft Bearing Using

Tool C-3132A

Fig.

31—Removing the Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

Using Tool C-3052

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ENGINE 9-23 bearing. The camshaft bearing oil hole should be perfectly aligned with the drilled oil passage from the main bearing. Other oil holes in the camshaft bearings should be visible by looking down on the left bank oil hole above and between No. 6 and No. 8 cylinders to No. 4 camshaft bearing and on the right bank above and between No. 5 and 7 cylinders to No.

4 camshaft bearings. If the camshaft bearing oil holes are not in exact register, remove and reinstall them correctly. Use Tool C-897 to install a new welch plug at the rear of camshaft. Be sure this plug does not leak.

1 5 . DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE

SHAFT BUSHING

Removal

(1) Insert Tool C-3052 into the old bushings and thread down until a tight tit is bbtainiil (Fig. 3i).

(2) Hold the puller scriw until the bushing is removed.

Installation t

( l ) Slide a hew bushing over the burnishing end of Tool C-3053 and insert the tool bushing into the bore, as shown in Figure 32.

(2) Drive the bushing and tool into position, using a soft haiiihar.

(3) As the burnisher is puller through the bushing by tightening the puller nut, the bushing is expanded tight in the block and burnished to the correct size, as shown in Figure 33.

DO NOT REAM THIS

BUSHING.

Distributor Timing

and tighten piiiler hut

Before installing the distributor and the oil pump drive shaft, time the engine as follows:

(1) Rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center on the firing stroke.

4 L _ y ^ 5 8 x 1 6 1

Fig.

33 —Burnishing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

(2) When in this position, the straight line on the vibration damper should be under "6" oh the timiiig indicator.

(3) Coat the shaft and drive gear with engine oil.

Install the shaft so that after the gear spirals into place, it will index with the oil pump shaft, so that the slot in top of the drive gear will be parallel with the center line of the crankshaft, as shown in Figure

34.

Installation of Distributor

(1) Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on the cylinder block with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the center of the engine.

(2) Turn the rotor until it points forward and to the approximate location of the No. 1 tower terminal in the distributor cap.

(3) Place the distributor gasket in position.

(4) Lower the distributor and engage the shaft in the slot of the distributor drive shaft gear.

BUSHING

T O O L

DISTRIBUTOR A N D OIL

PUMP DRIVE

GEAR

58x160

Fig.

32 — Installing the Distributor Drive Shaft

Bushing Using Tool C-3053 Fig.

34 —Distributor Drive Gear Installed

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9-24 ENGINE

(5) Turn the distributor clockwise until the breaker contacts are just separating, install hold down clamp.

and tighten the

1 6 .

CYLINDER BLOCK

The cylinder block is of the deep block design which eliminates the need for a torque converter housing adapter plate. Its sides extend three inches below the crankshaft center line.

Piston Removal

(1) Remove the top ridge of the cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing the pistons from the cylinder block. Be sure to keep the tops of the pistons covered during this operation.

NOTE: The pistons and connecting rods must be removed from the top of the cylinder block. When removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies from the engine, rotate the crankshaft so each connecting rod is centered in the cylinder bore.

(2) Remove the connecting rod cap.

(3) Install Tool C-3221 on one connecting rod bolt and protector over the other bolt and push each piston and rod assembly out of the cylinder bore.

(4) After removal, install the corresponding bearing cap on the rod. with 220 grit stones. Usually a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.

(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls should be done using a cylinder surfacing hone, Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20 to 60 strokes depending on the bore condition will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Inspect the cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil

C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from major oil distributors. Do not use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or kerosene.

(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.

When hone marks intersect at 60°, the cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seating of rings

(See Fig. 35).

(4) After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives. Wash the cylinder block and crankshaft thoroughly.

CAUTION: Be sure all abrasives are removed from the engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a solution of soap and water be used with a brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore can be considered clean when i t can be wiped clean with a white cloth and the cloth remains clean. Oil bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.

Cleaning and Inspection

(1) Clean the cylinder block thoroughly and inspect all the core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.

(2) If new core hole plugs are installed, coat the edges of the plug and core hole with a suitable sealer and drive the plugs in place with driver, Tool C-897.

(3) Examine the block for cracks or fractures.

Pistons

The pistons are cam ground so that the diameter at the pin boss is less than its diameter across the thrust face. This allows for expansion under normal operat-

; CROSS .PATTERN

Inspection Cylinder Bores

The cylinder walls should be measured for out-ofround and taper with Tool C-119. If the cylinder bores show more than .005" out-of-round, or a taper of more than .010" or if the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the cylinder block should be rebored and honed, and new pistons and rings fitted.

Whatever type of boring equipment is used, boring and honing operation should be closely coordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings in order that specified clearance may be maintained.

Honing Cylinder Bores

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean rags under the bores, over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials from entering the crankcase area.

(1) To remove light scoring, scuffing or scratches from the cylinder walls, use resizing hone Tool C-823 Fig c

35~€ross~ Hatch Pattern

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ENGINE 9 -25 top of skirt 90 degrees to the piston pin axis. The cylinder bores should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft center line.

NOTE:

P i s t o n s a n d c y l i n d e r b o r e s s h o u l d b e m e a s u r e d at normal r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e , 70 degrees F.

All service pistons include pins, and are available

THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE O F DIAMETERS A t (C) A N D (D)

THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD C A N

EQUAL OR DIAMETER

.010 T O .012 IN. LESS A T A T (D) C A N BE .0015 IN.

DIAMEfER (A) THAN A C R O S S GREATER T H A N (C) (1) Measure the piston ring gap about two (2)

THE THRUST FACES A T DIAM-

ETER

(B).

MEASUREMENT inches from bottom of cylinder bore in which it is to

MADE V

I N . BELOW be fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down to insure positioning rings squarely in

LOWER RING G R O O V E 60x220 the cylinder wall before measuring.)

Fig. 36—'Piston M e a s u r e m e n t s

(2) Insert the feeler stock in the gap. The ring ing conditions. Under operating temperatures, exin standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020 and .040 inch.

Fitting Rings gap should be between .013 to .052 inch for the compression rings and .015 to .062 inch for the oil ring pansion forces the pin bosses away from each other, thus causing the piston to assume a more nearly steel rails in standard size bores. Maximum gap on

.005 inch O /S bores jhduld be .060 inch for comround shape. It is important that old or new pistons pression rings and .07b inch for the oil ring steel rails. be measured for taper and elliptical shape before they are fitted into the cylinder bore (See Fig. 36).

(3) Measure the side clearance between the piston ring and the ring groove (Fig. 37). The clearance

Finished Pistons

All pistons are machined to the same weight in grams, regardless of oversize so piston balance can be maintained. For cylinder bores* which have been honed or rehoredi, pistons are available in standard and the following oyersizes:

005, .020, and .040 inch. should be .0015 to .003 inches for the top compression ring and the intermediate ring, and .001 to 1009 inch for the oil control ring, for new service rings.

(4) Install the oil ring in the lower ring groove using the instructions in the ring package.

(5) Install the compression rings in the middle and top grooves, so that the side marked "TOP" is up.

Fitting Pistons

The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.

The specified clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall is .0003 to .0013 inch.

The piston diameter should be measured at the

(6) Use ring installer Tool C-3628 for the 361 cubic inch engine, Tool C-3673 for the 383 cubic inch engine, and Tool C-3671 for the 413 cubic inch engines.

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-26

ENGINE

Pig, 39— Removing the Piston Pin from the

Connecting Rod

Removal of Piston Pin

(1) Arrange Tool C-3684 parts for the removal of piston pin, as shown in Figure 38.

(2) Install pilot on the main screw.

(3) Install the main screw through the piston pin.

(4) Install anvil over the threaded end of the main screw with small end of anvil against the piston boss.

NOTE: Be sure spring is removed from the anvil.

(5) Install hut loosely on the main screw and place the assembly on a press, as shown in Figure 39.

(6) Press the piston pin out of the connecting rod.

NOTE: When the pin falls free from the connecting rod, stop the press to prevent damage to bottom of the anvil.

(7) Remove the tool from the piston. be a sliding fit in the piston at 70 degrees F . Piston pins are supplied in standard sizes only.

(2) Lubricate the piston pin holes in the piston and connecting rod.

(3) Arrange the Tool C-3684 parts for installation of piston pin as shown in Figure 40,

(4) Install the spring inside the pilot and install the spring and pilot in the anvil. Install the piston pin over the main screw.

(5) Place the piston, with "front

up, over the pilot so that the pilot extends through the piston pin hole.

(6) Position the connecting rod over the pilot which extends through the piston pin hole.

NOTE: Assemble the rods to the pistons of the right cylinder bank (2,4, 6, and 8) with the indent on the piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod. Assemble the rods to pistons of the left cylinder bank (1, 3, 5, and 7) with the indent on the piston head on the same side as the large chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod.

(7) Install the main screw and piston pin in the piston, as shown in Figure 40.

(8) Install the nut on puller screw to hold the as sembly together. Place the assembly on a press, ai shown in Figure 41.

(9) Press in the piston pin until the piston pin "bottoms" on the pilot properly, positioning the pin in the connecting rod.

(10) Remove the tool and arrange tool parts and piston assembly in the same manner, as shown in

Figure 38

Installation of Piston Pin

(1) Test the piston pin fit in the piston. It should

Fig. 4"0— Tool Arrangement for Installing Piston Pin Fig. 41 — Installing the Piston Pin in Connecting Rod

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ENGINE 9-27

NUT

(TOOL)

PISTON

TORQUE WRENCH

SOCKET

ANVIL ( T O O L )

MAIN SCREW

(TOOL)

58x168 B

Fig.

42 —Testing Fit with Pin in Connecting Rod

58x169

Fig.

43— -Showing Location of the External Engine

Numbering Pad

(11) Place the assembly in a vise, as shown in

Figure 42.

(12) Attach the torque wrench to nut and tighten up to 15 foot-pounds torque. If the connecting rod moves downward on the piston pin, reject this connecting rod and piston pin combination. Obtain a connecting rod with proper small end bore diameter and repeat the installation and tightening procedure.

(13) If the connecting rod does not move under

15 foot-pounds torque, the piston pin and connecting rod interference is satisfactory, the tool may be removed. the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that the "V" groove in shell is in line with "V" groove in cap. This allows lubrication of the cylinder wall. The bearings should always be installed so that the small formed tang fits into the machined grooves of the rods. The end clearance should be from .009 to .017 inch (two rods).

Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to a maximum of .001 inch.

Bearings are available in .001, .002, .003, .010 and

.012 inch undersize.

NOTE: Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not file the rods or bearing caps.

1 7 .

CONNECTING RODS

IMPORTANT: A Maltese Cross stamped on the engine numbering pad (Fig.

43) indicates that engine is equipped with a crankshaft which has one or more connecting rods and/or main bearing journal finished

.001

inch oversize. The position of the undersize journal or journals is stamped on a machined surface of the No.

3 counterweight (Fig.

44).

The connecting rod journals are identified by the letter "R" and main bearing journals by the letter

"M". For example "M-l" indicates that No. 1 main bearing is .001 inch undersize.

19. MEASURING THE CONNECTING

ROD BEARING CLEARANCE

Shim Stock Method

(1) Place an oiled .001 inch feeler stock

(V2

inch

18. INSTALLATION OF

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

NOTE: Fit all rods on one bank until completed.

Do not alternate from one bank to another, because when the rods are assembled to the pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.

Each bearing cap has a small "V" groove across

55x162

Fig. 44—Showing Location of Mark of No. 3

Counterweight

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9-28

ENGINE wide and % inch long) between the bearing and the connecting rod journal.

(2) Install the bearing cap and tighten to 45 footpounds torque.

(3) Turn connecting rod

turn in each direction.

A slight drag should be felt which indicates clearance is satisfactory. The correct clearance is from .0005 to .0015 inch.

(4) The side play should be from .009 to .017 inch. guide the connecting rod into position on crankpin journal.

(7) The notch or groove on the top of the piston must be pointing toward front of the engine and the larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankpin journal fillet.

(8) Install the rod caps, tighten nuts to 45 footpounds torque.

2 0 .

INSTALLING THE PISTON AND

CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY IN

CYLINDER BLOCK

(1) Before installing the pistons, rods, and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression ring gaps are staggered so that neither are in line with the oil ring rail gaps.

(2) The oil ring expander ends should be positioned toward the outside of the "V" of the engine.

The oil ring rail gaps should be positioned opposite each other and above the piston pin hoes.

(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, slide the ring compressor, Tool C-385, over the piston and tighten with the special wrench

(part of Tool C-385).

(4) Be sure the position of rings does not change during this operation. Screw the connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool C-3221) on one rod bolt, and insert the rod and piston into cylinder bore.

NOTE: Rotate the crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is on center of the cylinder bore.

(5) Attach the puller part of Tool C-3221 on the other bolt, and guide the rod over the crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 45.

(6) Tap the piston down in the cylinder bore, using the handle of a hammer. At the same time,

2 1 . C R A N K S H A F T M A I N J O U R N A L S

The crankshaft main bearing journals should be inspected for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Journal grinding should not exceed .012 inch under the standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind the thrust faces of the No. 3 main bearing, do not nick the cranjkpin or main bearing fillets. After regrinding, remove the rough edges from the crankshaft oil holes and clean out all oil passages.

2 2 . C R A N K S H A F T M A I N BEARINGS

New lower main bearings halves Nubers 1, 2, 4,

5 are interchangeable, as shown in Figure 46. New upper main bearing halves Numbers 2, 4 and 5 are also interchangeable. Upper and lower bearing halves are not interchangeable because the upper bearing is grooved and the lower is not.

The No. 1 upper main bearing IS NOT INTER-

CHANGEABLE AND IS CHAMFERED on the tab side for timing chain oiling and can be identified by a red marking on the edge of the bearing.

The upper and lower No. 3 bearings are flanged to carry the crankshaft thrust loads and are not interchangeable with any other bearings in the engine.

NOTE: The bearings that are not badly worn or pitted must be reinstalled in the same position.

The bearing caps are not interchangeable and

Fig. 45—Installing Connecting Rod Using Tool

C-3221 Fig. 46 — Upper and Lower Afain Bearings

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ENGINE 9-29 should be marked at removal to insure correct assembly. Bearings are available in standard and the following undersizes: .001, .002, .003, .010 and .012 inch. Do not install an undersize bearing that will reduce the clearance below specifications.

2 3 . M A I N BEARINGS

Removal

(1) Remove the oil pan and mark bearing caps before removal.

(2) Remove

the

bearing caps one at a time. Remove the upper half of bearing by inserting Tool

C-3059 (Fig. 47) into the oil hole of crankshaft.

(3) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out upper half of bearing.

24. MEASURING M A I N BEARING CLEARANCE

( E n g i n e in V e h i c l e )

Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted while all other main bearing caps are properly torqued.

When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.

(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Tool C-3059 into the oil hole of the crankshaft (Fig. 47).

(2) Slowly rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise sliding the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.

(3) Smooth the edges of a

x % inch piece of soft copper or brass shim stock, .001 inch thickness.

(4) Install bearing in center main bearing cap, bearing tank in groove in cap, lubricate bearing and position the shim stock across the bearing, install cap, tighten bolts to 85 foot-pounds torque.

(5) If a slight drag is felt as the crankshaft is

BEARING turned (moved no more than % turn in either direction), the clearance is .001 inch or less and is considered satisfactory.

H, however, no drag is felt, the bearing is toe large or the crankshaft cannot be rotated, the bearing is too small and should be replaced with the correct size.

(6) Measure crankshaft end play .002 to .007 inch.

If end play is less than .002 inch or more than .007 inch, install a new number 3 main bearing.

(7) Fit the remaining bearings in same manner.

It is permissable to use one .001 inch undersize bearing shell with one standard bearing shell or one

.002 inch undersize bearing shell. Always

use the smaller diameter bearing

half

as the

upper.

Never use an upper bearing half more than .001

inch smaller than the

lower bearing

half and never use a new bearing

half with a

used bearing

half.

2 5 . REPLACEMENT O F THE

REAR

R e m o v a l

(1) Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the cylinder block so that both ends protrude.

(2) Tap the seal down into position, using Tool

C-3625 for 361 and 383 Cubic Inch Engines or Tool

C-3743 for 413 Cubic Inch Engines, with bridge removed until the tool is seated in the bearing bore.

(3) Hold the tool in this position and cut off the portion of the seal that extends above the block on both sides.

MAIN

BEARING O I L SEAL

( C r a n k s h a f t R e m o v e d )

Rear Main Lower Seal Installation

(1) Install a new seal in the seal retainer so that

BRIDGE

(PART O F TOOL)

INSTALLING £ [ 5 1 x 3 3 A

Fig.

47—'Removing or Installing Main Bearing

Upper Shell

SEAL

RETAINER

SIDE

SEAL

G R O O V E S V 58x237

Fig. 48 — Installing Rear Main Bearing Lower Oil

Seal

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9-30 ENGINE

NOTE: Failure to pre-oil the seals will result in i n oil leak.

26.

FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS

NOTE: Frame bracket studs and torque nuts are used in the place of bolts* Heat shields have been added to protect the engine mounts.

Removal

(1) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the transmission and at the carburetor.

(2) Raise the hood and position the fan to clear the radiator hose and the radiator top tank.

(3) Remove the torque nuts from the frame bracket studs.

(4) Raise the engine just enough to remove the front engine mount assembly.

Fig; 49—Trimming Rear Main Bearing Lower

Oil Seal the ends protrude (Fig. 48).

(2) Install the b r i d p on tm I n d tap ttii seal down into position with Tool C-3625 for 361 and 383

Cubic Inch Ehgihei or Tool C-3743 for 413 Cubic

Inch Engines until the tool is seated.

(3) Trim off that portion of the seal that protrudes above the cap (Fig. 49).

S i d e Seals Installation

NOTE: Perform the following operations as rapidly as possible.

These side seals are made from a material that expands quickly when oiled.

(1) Apply mineral spirits or diesel fuel to the side seals.

(2) Install seals immediately in the seal retainer grooves.

(3) Install the seal retainer and tighten screws to

30 foot-pounds torque.

Installation

(1) Install the mounts on the engine and tighten iiie huti to 45 foot-pouhd! torqul, as sho#h in Figure 50*

(2) Slide the heat shields over the engine mount bolts and install the second nuts. Tighten the nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Lower the engine and install the washers and pre-torque nuts on the frame bracket studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 foot-pounds torque.

(4) Connect the throttle to transmission and carburetor linkage.

Fig.

50 — Front Engine Mounts Fig.

51—Rear Engine Mount (Manual Transmission)

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ENGINE 9 -31

(4) Install the rear engine mount to the crossmember bolts and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(5) Lower the vehicle.

2 7 . REAR ENGINE M O U N T

(Figs. 5 1 , 5 2 a n d 53}

Removal

(1) Raise the vlhicle on hoist.

(2) Install the transmission jack.

(3) Remove the rear engine crossmember from the frame.

(4) Remove the rear engine mount from the crossmember.

Fig.

52< — Rear Engine Mount VY-1

Disassembly

When replacing the coil spring refer to Figure 51,

52 and 53 for proper assembly.

Installation

(1) Install the rear engine mount to the transmission and tighten bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Install the rear engine crossmember to the frame and tighten the bolts to 75 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Remove the transmission jack.

2 8 . C R A N K C A S E VENTILATOR V A L V E

All models are equipped with a positive crankcase ventilating system. This system is similar, but not identical, to systems used on the previous models

(Fig.

54).

The system must be kept clean to maintain good engine performance and durability as deposits will accumulate in the valve, hoses and the carburetor parts, therefore, the ventilation system should be inspected at least every six months and the valve replaced bftfife a year deferrable to coincide with the annual engine performance evaluation. This service will be required more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for sljo^^triri^^.driving .less than 10 m i l l !

witM freqiieflt iciling, sufil!

as city traffic.

With the engine running at idte, remove the ventilator valve arid cap assehibiy from the rocker cover.

If the valve i l iiot plugged, a hissing noise w i l l usually hi ieard as air passes through the \falve and a strong vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over the valve inlet. Replace the ventilatdr valve and cap assembly and remove the inlet breather cap. With the engine still running at idle, loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over the oil fill pipe.

It should be sucked against the oil fill pipe with a noticeable force. If this occurs, a final check should be made to be certain the valve shuttle is free. A clicking noise should be heard when the valve is shaken (engine not running). If the noise is heard, the unit is satisfactory and no further service is necessary.

If the valve does not click when shaken or if the paper is not sucked against the fill pipe, the valve

THIS W A S H E R IS C O L O R C O D E D

T O IDENTIFY V E N T V A L V E ASSEMBLY

S E E S P E C I F I C A T I O N S

Fig.

53 —Rear Engine Mount (Automatic

Transmission)

64 x 306

Fig.

54 —Crankcase Ventilation Valve

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9-32 ENGINE should be replaced and the system rechecked. (Do not attempt to clean the valve.) On all engines use MoPar

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

The engine oiling systems consists of an externally forced by the oil pump through the filter to a series mounted rotor type pump, a full flow oil filter, oil of oil passages in the engine, as shown in Figure 55. pan and the necessary lubrication passages. OU is

SERVICE PROCEDURES

29. ENGINE O I L P A N (2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and disconnect the

R e m o v a l steering linkage from the idler arm and steering arm.

(1) Disconnect the battery cable. (3) Remove the outlet vent pipe and disconnect

Pig. 55 —'Engine Oiling System (Schematic Drawing)

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ENGINE 9 -33 the exhaust pipe branches from the right and left manifolds.

(4) Remove the clamp attaching the exhaust pipe to the extension and remove the exhaust pipe.

(5) Drain the crankcase oil.

(6) Remove the converter dust shield.

(7) Remove the oil pan bolts. Turn the flywheel until the counterweight and connecting rods at the front end of crankshaft are at their highest position to provide clearance, and lower the pan. Turn the pan counter-clockwise to clear the oil screen and suction pipe as it is lowered.

Installation

(1) Inspect the alignment of the oil strainer. The bottom of the strainer must be on a horizontal plane with the machined surface of the cylinder block. The bottom of the strainer must touch the bottom of the oil pan.

(2) Install the oil pan.

(3) Install the converter dust shield.

(4) Connect the exhaust pipe branches to the manifolds and to the exhaust extension and install the outlet vent pipe.

(5) Connect the steering linkage at the idler arm and at the pitman arm.

(6) Connect the battery cable.

(7) Install the drain plug and refill the crankcase.

3 0 .

O I L

PUMP

R e m o v a l

Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and remove the pump and the filter assembly from the bottom side of the engine.

Fig. 57—Measuring the Oil Pump Cover with a

Straightedge

Assembly

(1) Remove the filter base and oil seal ring.

(2) Remove the pump rotor and shaft and lift out the outer pump rotor.

(3) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug and lift out the spring and relief valve plunger (Fig. 56).

Inspection

(1) Clean all the parts thoroughly. The mating face of the filter base (oil pump cover) should be smooth. Replace the filter base if it is scratched 6i* grooved.

(2) Lay a straightedge across the oil pump filter base surface (Fig. 57). If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between the base and the straightedge, the filtsr base should be replaced.

(3) If the outer rotor length measures less than

.943 inch (Fig. 58) and the diameter less than 2.469 inches, replace the outer rotor.

(4) If the inner rotor length measures less than

Fig. 56—Oil Pump and Filter Assembly

(Disassembled)

51x66A DIAMETER

Fig. 58-

—

Measuring the Outer Rotor Thickness

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9-34 ENGINE

Fig. 61

—

Measuring the Outer Rotor Clearance

••••••• 51x67 A

Fig. 59—Measuring the Inner Rotor Thickness

.942 inch (Fig. 59), a new inner rotor should be installed.

(5) Slide the outer rotor and inner rotor into the pump body and place a straightedge across the face

{between the bolt holes), as shown in Figure 60.

(6) If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between the rotor and the straightedge replace the rotor.

(7) Remove the inner rotor and shaft If aving the outer rotor in the pump cavity.

(8) Press the outer rotor body to one side with the fingers and measure the clearance between the outer rotor and the pump body (Fig. 61).

(9) If the measurement Is more than .012 inch, replace the oil pump body.

(10) If the tip clearance between the inner and outer rotor (Fig. 62) is more than .010 inch, replace the inner and outer rotors.

Servicing Oil Pressure Relief Waive

Inspect the oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring and for free operation in its bore. Small scores may be removed with 400 grit wet or dry paper providing extreme care is used not to round off the sharp edge portion of the yalve.

Fig.

62 — Measuring the Clearance Between Rotors

For 361, 383 and 413 cubic inch engines the relief valve has a free length of 2%

to 2

inch arid is red in color.

If the oil pressure is low, inspect for worn bearings, or look for other causes of possible loss of oil pressure.

NOTE;

When assembling the oil pump, be sure to use new oil seal rings between the filter base and the

pump

body.

Installation

(1) Install a new"O" ring seal on the pilot of the oil pump before attaching the oil pump to the cylinder block.

Fig. 60 — Measuring the Clearance Over Rotors Fig.

63 — Removing the Oil Filter

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ENGINE

9-35

(2) Install the oil pump on the engine, using a new gasket on the engine and tighten the attaching bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the oil filter element.

3 1 . O I L FILTER REPLACEMENT

The "spin on" oil filter should be replaced every 6 months, preferably to coincide with an oil change.

R e m o v a l (Fig. 63)

NOTE: Use care so as nor to damage the transmission oil cooler lines.

(1) Using Tool C-3654 unscrew the filter from the base on the bottom side of the engine and discard.

(2) Wipe the base clean.

Installation

(1) Install the "spin on" oil filter by hand, finger tight. Do not use the tool.

(2) To obtain an effective seal, tighten filter ^bf. hand the additional number of turns indicated on fhe replacement filter. Start engine and inspect for leaks.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Condition Possible Cause Correction

Engine Will Not S t a r t (a) Weak battery.

(b)

(a) Test the battery specific gravity and recharge or replace as necessary.

Corroded or loose battery connection. (b) Clean and tighten the battery connections. Apply a coat of petrolatum to the terminals.

••(c) Faulty coil or condenser.

(d) Dirty or corroded distributor contact points.

(d) Clean or replace as necessary.*

(e) Moisture on ignition wires and distributor cap.

(e) Wipe wires and cap clean and dry. m Incorrect spark plug gap.

<&)

Incorrect ignition timing.

(h) Faulty ignition cables.

(f) Set the gap at .035".

(g) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*

•00 Replace any cracked or shorted cables.

(i)

Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor.

(i)

Clean the lines and carburetor.**

(j) Carburetor flooded. (j) Adjust the float level—check seats.**

(k) Incorrect carburetor float setting.

(1) Faulty fuel pump.

(m) Carburetor percolating. No fuel in the carburetor.

(k) Adjust the float level—check seats.**

(1)

Install a new fuel pump.**

(m) Measure the float level.** Adjust the bowl vent. Inspect the operation of the manifold control valve.

(n) Faulty starting motor. (n) Refer to "Starting Motor."*

Engine Stalls (a) Idle speed set too low.

(b) Idle mixture too lean or too rich.

(c) Incorrect carburetor float setting.

(d) Incorrect choke adjustment.

(e) Leak in intake manifold.

(a) Adjust carburetor.**

(b) Adjust carburetor.**

(d) Adjust choke.**

(e) Inspect intake manifold gasket and replace if necessary.***

•Refer to the "Electrical and Instrument" Group 8 for service procedures.

**Refer to the "Fuel System" Group 14 for service procedures.

•••Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 for service procedures.

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9-36 ENGINE

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause Condition Correction

Engine Loss of Power

(f) Dirty, burned or incorrectly gapped distributor contact points.

(X)

Worn or buriiM distributor rotor.

(h) Incorrect ignition wiring.

(i)

(a)

Faulty coil or condenser.

Incorrect ignition timing.

(f) Replace points and adjust. *

(g)

Install a new rotor.

(h) Install the correct wiring.

(i)

Test and replace if necessary.*

(a) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*

(b) Install a new rotor. (b) Worn or burned distributor rotor.

(c) Wrong mechanical or vacuum advance (c) Install correct vacuum advance

(distributor). unit. Adjust the mechanical

(d)

(J)

Excessive play in distributor shaft.

(e) Worn distributor shaft cam.

(h) Incorrect carburetor float setting.

(i) Faulty fuel pump.

Incorrect valve timing.

(d) advance.

Remove and repair distributor. *

(e) Remove and repair distributor. *

(f) Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. (f) Clean plugs and set gap at .035".

(g)

Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor.

(g)

Clean lines and carburetor.**

(h) Adjust float level. **

(i)

Install a new pump.

(j)

Refer to "Checking Valve

Timing."***

(k) Blown cylinder head gasket. (k) Install a new head gasket.***

Engine Misses on

Acceleration

(1) Low compression.

(m) Burned, warped, pitted valves.

(1) Test the compression of each cylinder.***

(m) Install new valves.***

(n) Plugged or restricted exhaust system. (n) Install new parts as necessary.

(o) Faulty ignition cables. (o) Replace any cracked or shorted cables.

(P) Faulty coil or condenser.

(a) Dirty, burned, or incorrectly gapped distributor contact points.

(p) Test and replace as necessary.*

(a) Replace the points and adjust. *

Engine Misses at

(b) Dirty, or gap too wide in spark plugs. (b) Clean and dry the spark plugs and set the gap at .035".

(c) Incorrect ignition timing.

(d) Dirt in carburetor.

(e) Acceleration pump in carburetor.

(d)

Clean the carburetor.**

(e) Install a new pump.**

(f) Burned, warped or pitted valves*

(g)

Faulty coil or condenser.

(a)

High Speed >,

Dirt or water in fuel line carburetor.

(f) Install new valves.***

(g)

Test and replace if necessary. *

(a) Clean the lines and the earburetor.**

(b) Dirty jets in carburetor.

(c) Dirty or incorrectly gapped

(d) distributor contact points.

Dirty or gap set too wide in spark plugs.

(e) Worn distributor shaft cam.

(b) Clean the jets.**

(d)

Clean and dry the spark plugs and set the gap at .035".

(f) Worn or burned distributor rotor.

(g)

Excessive play in distributor shaft.

(h) Faulty coil or condenser.

(i)

Incorrect ignition timing.

(e) Remove and repair the distributor. *

(f) Install a new rotor.

(g)

Remove and repair the distributor.*

(K) Test and replace if necessary. *

(i)

Refer to "Ignition Timing."*

•Refer to the "Electrical and Instrument" Group 8 for service procedures.

••Refer to the "Fuel System" Group 14 for service procedures.

•••Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 for service procedures.

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ENGINE 9-37

Condition

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause Correction ~ ~

( a ) High or low oil level in crankcase.

(b) Low oil pressure.

( c )

Dirt in tappets.

(d) Bent push rods.

(e) Worn rocker arms.

(f) Worn tappets.

(g) Worn valve guides.

(h) Excessive run-out of valve seats or valve faces.

(a) Check for correct oil level. ***

(b) Check the engine oil level.***

(d) Install new push rods.***

(e) Inspect the oil spuuly to rockers.***

(f) Install new tappets.***

(g) Ream and install new valves with O/S stems.***

(h) Grind the valve seats and valves.***

Connecting Rod Noise

( a ) Insufficient oil supply. (a) Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve, damper and spring.***

(b) Check the engine oil level.*** (b) Low oil pressure.

( c )

Thin or diluted oil.

(d) Excessive bearing clearance.

(c) Change oil to correct viscosity.

(d) Measure the bearings for correct clearances or failures.***

(e) Connecting rod journals out-of-round. (e) Remove the crankshaft and regrind journals.***

( f )

Misaligned connecting rods. (f) Replace the bent connecting rods.***

( a ) Insufficient oil supply.

Oil Pumping at Rings

(b) Low oil pressure.

( c )

( a )

Thin or diluted oil.

Excessive bearing clearance.

(e) Excessive end play.

(f) Crankshaft journals out-or-round or worn.

(g) Loose flywheel or torque converter.

( a )

Worn, scuffed, or broken rings.

.(b) Carbon in oil ring slots.

( c )

Rings.

(d) Rings fitted too tight in grooves.

(a) Check the engine oil level.

Inspect the oil pump relief valve, damper and spring.***

(b) Check the engine oil level.***

( c )

Change the oil to correct viscosity.

(d) Check the bearings for correct clearances or failures.***

(e) Check # 3 main bearings for wear on flanges.***

(f) Remove the crankshaft and regrind journals.***

(g) Tighten to the correct torque.

(a) Hone cylinder bores and install new rings.***

(b) Install new rings.***

( c )

Remove the rings. Clean the grooves. Check the groove width.***

(d) Remove the rings. Check the grooves. If groove is not proper width, replace the pistons.***

•Refer to the "Electrical and Instrument" Group 8 for service procedures.

••Refer to the "Fuel System" Group 14 for service procedures.

•••Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 for service procedures.

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9-38 ENGINE

Condition

Oil Pressure Drop

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

Possible Cause

(a) Low oil level.

(b)

(c) Thin or diluted oil.

(d) Oil pump relief valve stuck.

(e) Oil pump suction tube loose bent or cracked.

(f)

(g)

Faulty oil pressure sending unit.

Clogged oil filter.

Excessive bearing clearance.

Correction

(a) Check the engine oil level.

(b) Install a new sending unit.

(c) Change the oil to correct viscosity.

(d) Remove the valve and inspect, clean, and reinstall.

(e) Remove the oil pan and install a new tube if necessary.

(f)

Install a new oil filter.

(g) Check the bearings for the correct clearance.***

•Refer to the "Electrical and Instruments" Group 8 for service procedures.

••Refer to the "Fuel System" Group 14 for service procedures,

•••liefer to the "Engine" Group 9 for service procedures.

MyMopar.com

EXHAUST SYSTEM 11-1

GROUP 11

EXHAUST SYSTEM

P a g e P « p e

Torque Reference 1 6

Intake Manifold. . 2 6

Manifold Meat Control Valve 5

T O R Q U E REFERENCE

Foot-Pounds

Ball Joint Screw 20

Exhaust Manifold Nuts 30

Exhaust Pipe Flange Nut 40

Exhaust Pipe Support Clamp Bolts , 10

Converter Housing Bracket Screw • 15

Heat Control Counterweight Clamp Bolt. • .50 inch-pounds

Long Hfe aluminized exhaust components are used on all models. The exhaust system is suspended by loop type hangers through the propeller shaft tunnel.

Ball joints which allow more accurate alignment of the exhaust system are located ahead of the muffler*,

(Fig. 1, 2, 3,4, 5, and 6).

G A S K E T

B O L T /

NUT

S U P P Q t T

LOCKWASHIR/

BOLT / /

" U " BOLT

Pig. 1—Chrysler N e w Yorker Exhaust System

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11-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. INTAKE M A N I F O L D 2. E X H A U S T M A N I F O L D

Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 for removal and R e m o v a l installation of the intake manifold. (1) Disconnect the spark plug cables from the

S U P P O R T

6 4 x 4 0 7

GASKET

F i g . 2

—

C h r y s l e r 3 0 0 E x h a u s t System

S A D D L E

F i g . 3 — I m p e r i a l E x h a u s t System

C L A M P

S U P P O R T

SUPPORT

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EXHAUST SYSTEM 11-3

NUT

P L A I N W A S H E R

L O C K W A S H E R

NUT / S A D D L E

S A D D L E

Fig.

4— Chrysler Town and Country Exhaust System

PIPE

C L A M P

P L A I N W A S H E R

x 409 sparkplugs.

(2) Remove the alternator from the right cylinder head.

(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifold flanges.

(4) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads.

(5) Slide the manifolds off the studs and away from the cylinder heads.

(6) Clean the exhaust manifolds in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air.

(7) Inspect the manifolds for cracks and distortion.

S U P P O R T

G A S K E T

S A D D L E

L O C K W A S H E R -

N U T -

Fig.

5 —Chrysler Police and High Performance

Exhaust System

S A D D L E 64 x 4 1 0

11-4 EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Fig. 6—Imperial Convertible Exhaust System

Fig. 7—Chrysler 300 Manifolds for FirePower 390 Engine

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EXHAUST C R O S S O V E R PASSAGE WELL FOR AUTOMATIC

C H O K E

VALVE

EXHAUST SYSTEM

EXHAUST MANIFOLD-RIGHT

INSTALLED POSITION

11-5

PRIMARY

BORES

S E C O N D A R Y

BORES

FREE POSITION

THERMOSTATIC

COIL

58x235 A VALVE

Fig. 10—Positioning the Coil

1 3

EXHAUST C R O S S O V E R P A S S A G E -

6 0 x 8 4 3

CARBURETOR

M O U N T I N G F L A N G E

Fig.

8 —Intake Manifold

Installation

(1) Place the exhaust manifolds on the studs on the cylinder heads and install the nuts. Tignten to

30 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Connect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds torque.

(3) Install the alternator on the right cylinder head and adjust the belt tension.

(4) Connect the spark plug cables to the spark plugs.

3 . M A N I F O L D HEAT CONTROL V A L V E

Inspect the operation of the heat control valve (Fig.

8) and apply manifold heat control valve solvent

MoPar No. 1879318 to both ends of the valve shaft.

With engine idling, accelerate the engine and release quickly. The counterweight should respond by moving clockwise approximately Vi inch and return to its normal position.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

/ - R I G H T

Disassembly (Fig. 9)

(1) Loosen the counterweight clamp bolt and remove the counterweight, lock and stop from the end of the stiaf t, exposing the thermostatic coil.

(2) Unhook the coil from the pin and remove by sliding out of the valve shaft slot-

(3) If the valve shaft is frozen in the manifold, apply manifold heat control valve solvent, MoPar

Part No. 1879318, and allow to stand several minutes.

Loosen by rotating the shaft back and forth until the shaft turns easily.

Assembly

(1) Position the valve shaft in the extreme counterclockwise position.

(2) Place the new coil in position in the shaft slot, with the outer end (tongue) of the coil in the lower left hand position, as shown in Figure 10. Press the

EXHAUST

' MANIFOLD

COUNTERWEIGHT

ASSEMBLY

STOP PIN ^

ANTI RATTLE

SPRING

BOLT RETAINERS 58x234 A

Fig. 9—Manifold Heat Control Valve

CLAMP BOLT

58x236

Fig.

11 —Installing the Counterweight on the Heat

Control

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n - 6 EXHAUST SYSTEM inner end of the coil into the slot of the shaft and seat firmly.

(3) Move the outer end (tongue) counter-clockwise and hook under the pin, as shown in Figure 11.

(4) Place the counterweight assembly over the shaft

(with the weight in the upward position) and insert the lock in the shaft slot, as shown in Figure 11.

If the composition on the stop is worn, replace with a new stop.

Center the counterweight on the shaft and turn the assembly clockwise until the stop passes the pin.

Press the counterweight on the shaft until seated and tighten the clamp bolt 50 inch-pounds with torque wrench Tool C-3380. Test the valve for proper operation.

4 .

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL

VALVE REPLACEMENT

R e m o v a l

(1) Remove the alternator.

(2) Remove the exhaust pipe from the Mnifold.

(3) Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.

(4) Remove the counterweight, thermostatic spring, shaft, clips and anti-rattle spring.

(5) Cut the valve plate off of the shaft.

(6) Remove the shaft and press the bushings from the manifold.

(7) Install the manifold on the engine assembly.

(8) Using a new gasket, connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

(9) Install the alternator.

(10) Start the engine and test the operation of the manifold heat control valve assembly.

Servicing

Test the manifold heat control valve for proper operation during engine tune-up and apply Manifold

Heat Control Valve Solvent MoPar Part No. 1879318 to both ends of valve shaft. See "Lubrication" Group 0.

5 .

EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS,

TAIL PIPES

Removal

(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and lubricate the clamp nuts and bolts with penetrating oil to loosen the rust and dirt.

(2) Remove the clamps from the exhaust pipes, mufflers and tail pipes.

(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifolds and remove the exhaust pipe,

(4) Remove the muffler, extension pipe and the tail pipe assembly.

NOTE: If only the muffler is to be replaced, cut the extension at the muffler with a hack saw. It is unnecessary to remove the exhaust pipe. The replacement muffler is installed using a clamp at the front of the muffler.

Installation

(1) Install the new bushings in the exhaust manifold.

(2) Position the shaft into both bushings and check the shaft for freedom of turning. Should the shaft fail to turn freely, it will be necessary to hone the bushings.

(3) Pull the shaft out far enough to position the valve plate on the shaft, then slide shaft into position in both bushings.

(4) Align the hole in the valve plate with the hole in the shaft and insert a drift into both holes to maintain correct positioning of the valve plate as it is being welded to the shaft.

(5) Remove the drift from the valve plate and shaft.

(6) Install the new anti-rattle spring, shaft clips, thermostatic spring and counterweight assembly on the shaft

Installation

(1) Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds torque.

(2) Adjust the hanger heights for proper alignment.

(3) Tighten all slip joints to 10 foot-pounds torque.

Work from the rear to the front of vehicle.

(4) Tighten all support clamps to 10 foot-pounds torque when installing the mufflers.

(5) Tighten the ball joint flange bolts to 20 footpounds torque. The inner surfaces of the flanges should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the pipe axis.

(6) Adjust the converter housing bracket, so that it is flat against the converter housing, and in the proper contact with the pipe tab. Tighten screw to

15 foot-pounds torque.

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EXHAUST SYSTEM 11-7

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause

Condition

Excessive Exhaust

Noise

Correction joints.

Gases flange.

(e)

(f)

Exhaust manifold cracked or broken.

Leak between the manifold and cylinder block.

(e)

(f) the exhaust pipe flange nuts 40 foot-pounds torque.

Replace the manifold.

Tighten the manifold to cylinder block nuts 30 foot-pounds torque.

(b)

(c)

(a)

Damaged or improperly installed gaskets, (b)

Restriction in muffler or tail pipe. (c)

Tighten the clamps at the leaking joints.

Replace gaskets as necessary.

Remove the restriction, if possible or replace as necessary.

Warm Up or Will

Not Return to

Normal Idle position.

Free up the manifold heat control valve using solvent number

1879318.

Noise i n Manifold Replace the spring.

(b)

Replace the thermostatic spring.

Replace the spring.

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FRAME 13-1

GROUP 13

FRAME

CONTENTS

Page Page

Frame Alignment Measurement (Imperial) 2

Frame Alignment Measurement (Chrysler) 3 5

I m p e r i a l

A full length box section frame with redesigned crossmembers and full length side rails are used on all Imperial Models.

Two front crossmembers are used, the forward member for bumper, radiator support and strut attachment and the other for engine and suspension support.

The convertible coupe frames have X-members to reinforce the frame to body attachment.

C h r y s l e r

The stub frame used on all Chrysler models is attached to the body at ten locations—four at brackets extending down from the cowl panel and six under the front passenger compartment where the frame is joined to the underbody crossmember.

Shimming of the stub frame outriggers, to keep them in alignment with the balance of the frame is performed prior to the body being installed on the frame.

F i g .

1— F r a m e D i m e n s i o n s ( I m p e r i a l )

64 x 678

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13-2 FRAME

SERVICE PROCEDURES

FRAME ALIGNMENT MEASUREMENT

(Imperial) be easily measured for alignment by measuring the diagonals with trammels or steel tape and check the

Frame members can often be satisfactorily straightdimensions given in Figures 1 and 2. Measurements may be taken without removing the body from the ened to the required dimensional limits.

NOTE: Under no circumstances should the control arms, knuckles, steering arms or torsion bars be chassis by using a plumb-bob and chalk line on a level floor.

Attach the line of a plumb-bob to one of the rear body bolts. The plumb-bob should be suspended heated for straightening. Heating these parts will anneal the metal and lower their strength to a point which will make them dangerously weak for further use. slightly above the floor. When the plumb-bob comes to rest, mark the floor directly underneath it. The marks made on the floor will represent the various

Figures 1 and 2 show various dimensions to be points of the frame to be checked diagonally. Move the vehicle away so the distance can be measured to used as a guide for measuring frame alignment. These dimensions are the true distance between two points compare with the diagonal measurements. as measured with a steel tape.

The body support brackets are welded to the frame in manufacturing. Due to "Box" construction of the

Figures 1 and 2 show various measurements that frame the rivets cannot be used to attach anew body may be taken to measure frame alignment. Diagonal measurements will quickly determine which section of the frame is bent and where force should be apbracket to the frame.

Cut the damaged bracket off the frame and file the surface smooth. Clamp a new bracket in correct plied to restore the correct alignment. position and weld securely to the frame member. The shielded arc-weld method is recommended for frame

2 ,

FRAME ALIGNMENT (Imperial) welding, or replacement of body frame support

To properly measure a frame for alignment, diagonal measurement should be performed with great care. When the body is removed, the frame may brackets. The heat generated from the welding operation is localized and burning 6f material is held to a minimum when a mild steel welding rod is used.

Fig. 2—Frame Dimensions (Imperial Convertible)

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FRAME

13-3

F i g .

5 — F e n d e r t o C o w l M o u n t i n g

one of a few that may be measured. Many other diagonals may be measured in the same way.

NOTE; Care s h o u l d be taken t o

make sure that any two diagonals compared represent

e x a c t l y

corr e s p o n d i n g p o i n t s o n e a c h s i d e of t h e f r a m e .

G A U G E HOLE IN EACH SIDE O F FRAME 6 0 x 2 0 9 A

Fig.

3— Frame Dimensions (Newport, 300,

New Yorker)

4 . FRAME REPLACEMENT ( C h r y s l e r )

FRAME ALIGNMENT MEASUREMENT

( C h r y s l e r )

Removal

(1) Drain the radiator and remove the battery.

(2) Remove the front bumper and the hood assembly.

The various frame dimensions as shown in Figures

3 and 4 may be used as a guide in measuring the frame alignment.

Measure the distance between the points connected by line "A", in Figure 2, this distance should agree within % inch with the distance between the points connected by line "B".

The diagonals shown in Figure 3 represent only

(3) Disconnect the radiator hoses, the head lamp wires and the horn wires.

(4)

Remove the hood hinge to the fender mounting screws (one each side).

(5) Remove the upper nuts and studs (four at each side) attaching the fender to the cowl panel (Fig. 5).

(6)

Remove the bolts attaching the splash shields to the cowl (Fig.

6).

(7) Remove the splash shield to body frame mounting bolts (Fig. 7) and the splash shield to stub frame mounting bolts (Fig. 8).

Fig.

4— Frame Diagonal Measurements Fig.

6— Splash S h i e l d t o C o w l M o u n t i n g

13-4 FRAME

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Fig.

7— Splash Shield fa Body Frame Mounting

(8) Remove the fender to body sill bolts (two each side), (Fig. 7) and the fender to body post bolts.

(9) Remove the bolts attaching the front end sheet metal to the stub frame yokes (Fig. 9).

(10) Disconnect the radiator yoke from the frame.

(11) Raise the fenders off the mounting studs at the cowl and remove all front end sheet metal, and radiator as an assembly. With all front end sheet metal removed, raise the vehicle on a hoist.

(12) Disconnect the propeller shaft and the transmission push button cable from the transmission.

Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the front of the muffler. Disconnect the parking brake cable.

(13) Remove the jacket tube at the instrument panel.

(14) Disconnect the steering gear tube at the lower coupling. Disconnect the coupling from the steering gear by pushing the steering column up into the driver's compartment.

(15) Remove the steering gear arm and the steering gear to frame mounting bolts.

Fig. 9—Radiator Support to Frame Yoke Mounting

(16) Disconnect the fuel line from the flexible connection at the rear of the stub frame right side rail.

(17) Remove the brake line from the "tee" on the rear axle and at the "tee" on the stub frame right side rail.

(18) Lower and place the vehicle on floor stands.

The floor stands should be placed under the rear axle housing and under the forward edge of the floor sills.

NOTE: To protect the floor sills, wooden blocks should be placed between the floor stands and the floor sills.

(19) Disconnect all electrical wires from the engine.

Disconnect the power steering hoses (if so equipped), brake lines at the master cylinder, carburetor, throttle linkage and the heater hoses.

(20) Place a hydraulic jack under the stub frame rear crossmember to hold it in position when the body to the frame mounting bolts (Fig. 10 and 11) are removed.

NOTE: Two bolts are located near the top of the curved portion of the body to frame crossmember.

(21) Remove the frame to body bolts. Lower the stub frame and engine assembly and roll out from under the body. ^

Fig.

8— Splash Shield to Stub Frame Mounting Fig. 10—Body to Frame Outrigger Mounting

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FRAME 13-5 frame and install the mounting bolts loosely. Align the front end sheet metal and tighten all mounting bolts securely.

(15) Connect the radiator hoses, head lamp wires and horn wires. Fill the cooling system.

(16) Raise the car and connect the transmission push button cable. Adjust the cable and lower car to floor.

Fig.

11—

Body to Frame Crossmember Mounting

(17) Refill the power steering unit (if so equipped) with Mopar Power Steering fluid. Part Number

2084329.

(18) Bleed and refill the braking system.

(19) Measure the front end height and adjust as necessary.

(20) Measure the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Installation

(1) If frame is to be replaced, remove the engine and transmission, and all serviceable units from the old frame and install them on the new frame.

(2) Position the frame and engine assembly under the body.

(3) Install the body to frame bolts and tighten to

75 foot-pounds torque and measure the body to stub frame alignment. See Paragraph 5, "Body to Frame

Alignment".

(4) Raise the vehicle and connect the exhaust pipe to the muffler and the propeller shaft to the transmission.

(5) Connect the fuel line to the flexible connector at the rear of the frame right side rail.

(6) Install the steering gear on the frame. Install the steering gear arm and link.

(7) Position the steering gear column, tube and coupling on the steering gear worm shaft. Position the steering column jacket tube at the instrument panel and tighten the bolts finger tight. Tighten the coupling bolt at the worm shaft coupling. Tighten the instrument clamp bolt securely.

(8) Install the brake line to the rear axle tee.

(9) Lower the vehicle to the floor and connect the brake lines to the master cylinder.

(10) Connect the power steering hoses (on Power

Steering equipped cars) and the heater hoses.

(11) Connect the carburetor and throttle linkage.

(12) Connect the parking brake cable. Adjust as necessary.

(13) Connect all electrical wires to the engine.

(14) Position the front end sheet metal on the

5 . B O D Y T O FRAME ALIGNMENT

( C h r y s l e r )

The body to Frame Alignment measurement should be performed whenever the stub frame has been removed, replaced, repaired or the front end sheet metal cannot be properly aligned.

To measure the body to frame alignment, using

Tool C-3802, refer to the "Gauge Adapter Chart" to determine the correct gauge adapter positions.

G A U G E ALIGNMENT ADAPTER CHART

Wheel- Front Center Rear

Models base Gauge Gauge Gauge

-1,

-2,

V C

- 3 . . .

122 B A D

Town and Country C C C

Fig.

12—

Front Alignment Gauge Installed

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13 -6 FRAME.

Fig. 13—Center Alignment Gauge Installed

(1) Remove the cotter pins from the lower control arm shafts and position the 36 inch gauge on the shaft nuts, as shown in Figure 12 and 13.

(2) Using the 45 inch gauge (middle gauge) position the gauge adapter in the frame gauge holes, as shown in Figure 14.

(3) Place the horizontal alignment bars on the suspended gauges. The short bars are positioned on the front and center gauges and the long bars are positioned on the center and rear gauges, as shown in Figure 15.

(4) The long and short bar should be placed against each other to determine if any body to frame deflection is evident.

(5) The top and bottom surfaces of the horizontal bars should be perfectly level across their combined surfaces where they meet, however, if this condition is not prevailing, raise both the long and short bar as a unit until they are perfectly level.

(6) Measure the space, created by leveling the bars, between the bars and the center gauge (Fig. 16).

The preferred spacing between the horizontal bars and the center gauge is 0 inch ± %

inch. The differential measurements between one side to the other should not exceed Vs inch. f i g . 15—Horizontal Measuring Bars in Position

Example—Right side reads + y

Left side should not exceed —%<$".

Should the measurements be out of limits of the recommended settings, it will be necessary to install the slotted shims, available in and % inch thicknesses between the stub frame outriggers and the body front mounting brackets.

After the frame to body adjustment is performed, remove the measuring gauges, and install the cotter pins in the lower control arm shafts.

Fig. 16—Measuring Body to Frame Alignment

Fig. 14—Rear Alignment Gauge Installed

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FUEL SYSTEM 14-1

GROUP 14

FUEL SYSTEM (PUMP, CARBURETOR, TANK)

PART 1 —

W W C 3

Series Carbureter

Page Page

PART 2 —BBD Series Carburetor

PART 3—AFB Series Carburetor

Disassembling the C a r b u r e t o r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 26 Automatic Choke (Well Type) 35

PART 4—Firepower 390 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM

Intake Manifolds 38 Inspection and Reassembly 45

Throttle Linkage 41 Carburetor Adjustments. 48

Disassembling the Carburetor (AFB). 43

PART 5—Fuel Pump and Tank

Fuel Pump Operation 50 Fuel Tank—Removal 52

Testing the Fuel Pump , . 50

PART 6—Service Diagnosis

Carburetor 55

T109-22

Tl 09-29

Tl 09-31

Tl 09-32

. Bending Tool

Wire Gauge .020" Secondary Throttle Lever

14"

Gauge, Choke Unloader

14"

Gauge, Fast Idle Cam Positioning

(Tl09-238,

Manual Trans.)

^ 4 "

Gauge, Fast Idle Cam Positioning

Gauge, Unloader Adjustment

" Gauge, Vacuum Kick Adjustment

Bending Tool (Fast Idle and Unloader)

T109-36

Tl 09-41

Tl09-58. , . . .Screw Driver Bit

Tl 09-59 Screw Driver Bit

Tl 09-80.^ . ..Gauge, % " Unloader

T109-106. .

,. % 2 "

Gauge, Vacuum Kick Adjustment

(Manual Trans.)

SPECIAL TOOLS

Tl 09-39

% 4 "

Gauge, Fast Idle Cam Positioning

T109-166. . . .

1 ]

AA" Gauge, Vacuum Kick Adjustment

(Auto. Trans.)

T109-173. . . .Main Metering Jet (Removal and Installation)

T l 0 9 - 2 1 3 . . . .Bending Tool

T109-214. , . . Bending Tool

T109-282. .

. . 14"

Gauge, Float

T109-287S. . .Elevating Legs

C-3400 , Repair Stand

73598 Power Bypass Jet (Removal and Installation)

73605

73725

No. 47

. . Bending Tool

. . % 2 "

Gauge, Float

. I 4 "

Drill, Bowl Vent Valve

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SPECIFICATIONS

Carter Carter Carter

TYPE Dual Downdraft Dual Downdraft 4 Barrel

Downdraft

AFB-3614S

CARBURETOR MODEL WWC3-244 WWC3-242

Manual Trans. Auto. Trans.

BBD-3685S

ENGINE DISPLACEMENT

(Cu.ln.) 361 361

383 413

2-4 Barrel

Downdraft

AFB-3505S

413

4 Barrel

Downdraft

AFB-3615S

AFB-3644S

413

CAR MODEL ENGINE APPLICATION VC-1

with

Firebolt 265

VC-2 with

Firepower 305

VC-1 Police

VC-2 Hi-Perf. with

Firepower 360

VC-2 with VC-3 with

Firepower 390 Firepower 340

VY-1 with

Imperial V-8

BORE

Primary ' \W 1 W

Secondary — l"yk"

AAAIN VENTURI

Primary.

\W 1 W ^6"

Secondary ., —

MAIN METERING JET Part No. 388186

.089" l

/fc"

.089"

1516"

.089"

MAIN JET (Secondary)...... — —

POWER JET . . . 028" x .055" .028" x .055"

.067"

LOW SPEED JET (Primary) — —

STEP UP ROD (2 Stages)

Standard. • —

(1 Size Lean). • —

(2 Sizes Lean). . . . . . . . . . . . . . —

#65-.035"

STEP UP WIRE DIAMETER

(Standard). —

(2 Stage).. — —

16-217

16-165

16-159

.082

#65-.035" #65-.035"

16-118

16-119

16-50

.067"

16-165

16-160

16-173

ADJUSTMENTS

Accelerator Pump Travel

Accelerator Pump Travel (Blades Fully Closed).

Accelerator Pump (Top of Plunger to Air horn)

Float Setting

Bowl Vent Valve (Curb Idle)

Vacuum Kick (Drill Size)

Choke Unloader

Idle Mixture Screws (Turns Open)

Idle Speed RPM (Curb Idle)

(Air Conditioning on) RPM

Fast idle Speed R P M . . . . . .

Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment. . . . . . . . . .

Secondary Throttle Lever Adjustment

Secondary Throttle Lockout Adjustment

Velocity Valve

CHOKE

Type...

Control.

Setting.

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S P E C I F I C A T I O N S — ( C o n t i n u e d )

—

500

600 w

"AA"

'HA" l ' / 2

500

700

—

VA"

—

Mi."

VA"

500

700

Weil

Thermostatic

Coil Spring

1 Notch Rich

——

Well

Thermostatic

Coil Spring

2 Notches Rich

Well

Thermostatic

Coil Spring

On Index w w w

— w w

1-2

500

700

.020"

—

Vi"

—

1-2

700

500

1400

—

.020"

Free

Hand Well

Thermostatic

Coil Spring

2 Notches Rich

—

/ 4 "

—

V*"

1-2

500

700

.020"

—

FUEL PUMP

V C - 1 , V C - 2 , V C - 3 , VY-1

M a k e . . . . •

C a r t e

Model • • • W-3672S —I

Number of Valves

Driven by Camshaft

Pump Pressure • 3 Vi to 5 psi i

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14-4 WWC3 CARBURETOR

B O W L V E N T V A L V E ,

L O N G S T R O K E S L O T N O R M A L S T R O K E SLOT SHORT STROKE S L O T

A C C E L E R A T O R PUMP LEVER

A C C E L E R A T O R PUMP R O D

THROTTLE LEVER

C H O K E V A C U U M

D I A P H R A G M

D I A P H R A G M PLUNGER (STEM!

V A C U U M H O S E

FAST IDLE R O D

FAST IDLE C A M

CURB IDLE SPEED A D J U S T I N G

S C R E W

FAST IDLE SPEED A D J U S T I N G

S C R E W

E L E V A T I N G L E G S

(SET O P 4)

FAST IDLE A D J U S T I N G S C R E W

C H O K E V A C U U M

D I A P H R A G M

C L O S E D C R A N K C A S E

V E N T FITTING

THROTTLE B O D Y

Fig. Carburetor Assembly (WWC3 Series)

C H O K E O P E R A T I N G LINK

C H O K E LEVER

FUEL INLET FITTING

MAIN B O D Y

I DLE MIXTURE S C R E W (2)

DISTRIBUTOR V A C U U M

A D V A N C E TUBE FITTING

6 4 x 2 2 r

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WWC3 CARBURETOR 14-5

FUEL SYSTEM

PART 1 MODEL WWC3 STROMBERG CARBURETORS

The WWC3 Series Stremberg carburetor (Pig. 1) is a dual throat downdraft type, with each throat having its own idle system, main metering system and throttle valve. The idle and main metering system are supplemented by the float system, the accelerating system and the power system.

The carburetor incorporates an idle system vent, operated from the throttle linkage, a double venturi cluster which in addition to the small venturi, also includes the discharge nozzles, the main discharge tubes and the idle tubes in a single assembly. Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for improper carburetor operation.

Proper cleaning, however, and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job.

(1) All parts (except the diaphragm assembly) should be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for damage or wear.

(2) Use air pressure only, to clean the various orifices and channels.

(3) Replace questionable parts with NEW ones.

Always use a complete kit when overhauling the carburetor. Using the code number stamped on the air horn, adjacent to the fuel inlet, refer to the parts catalog and order the correct repair kit for the carburetor being worked on.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR

( F i g s . 1 and 2 )

(1) Install four elevating legs, Tool T109-287S, in the mounting flange holes in the throttle body. These legs are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.

(2) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod in the center slot of the pump arm. Remove rod from slot and disengage from the throttle lever.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip that hold the fast idle rod in the fast idle cam. Disengage rod from cam, then rotate rod to disengage from choke lever.

(4) Remove the three short air horn attaching screws, then remove the two long air horn attaching screws. Install two short screws through the main body into the throttle body to hold the bodies together (Fig. 3).

(5) Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor air horn and the vacuum diaphragm.

(6) Remove the clip from the choke operating link and disengage the link from the diaphragm plunger

(stem) and the choke lever. (Refer to Fig. 1.)

(7) Remove the vacuum diaphragm and bracket assembly and place to one side to be cleaned as a special item. A liquid cleaner other than mineral Fig. 2— -Carburetor Assembly (Disassembled View)

14-6

WWC3

CARBURETOR

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Fig.

5 —Removing the Vacuum Power Piston

Fig. 3—Removing the Air Horn spirits, may damage the diaphragm

material.

(8) Remove the remaining air horn attaching screws, then lift air horn straight up and away from main body, as shown in Figure 3.

(9) Disengage the accelerator pump-plunger from the pump arm hook by tilting down and out from under hook, as shown in Figure 4. Remove the compression spring.

Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out

(10) Remove the vacuum power piston from the air horn, using an open end wrench and wood block, as shown in Figure 5. (Exert sufficient pressure on end of wrench to force piston out of its well in air horn.

This assembly is staked in the air horn and care should be used at removal.) Discard air horn gasket.

(11) Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the bearings, or appears to be gummed from deposits in the air horn, a thorough cleaning will be required.

2. M A I N B O D Y R E M O V A L

(1) Remove the venturi cluster attaching screws, the venturi cluster and gasket, as shown in Figure 6.

Discard the gasket.

(2) Remove the float fulcrum pin spring, the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket.

(3) Slide the float baffle up and out of its grooves, and remove the float and fulcrum pin.

(4) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out the discharge check ball from the discharge passage

(Fig. 6), and the accelerator pump inlet check ball from the pump well.

(5) Using Tool 73598, remove the power by-pass jet and gaskets, as shown in Figure 7.

Fig.

4— -Removing the Accelerator Pump Plunger Fig.

6 —Removing the Venturi Cluster

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WWC3 CARBURETOR 14-7 f j g . 7 — R e m o v i n g the Power B y - P a s s Jet

(6) Using Tool T109-173, remove the two main metering jets, as shown in Figure 8.

(7) Remove the two air horn screws used to hold the main and throttle bodies together. Separate the throttle and main bodies.

3 . THROTTLE B O D Y R E M O V A L

(1) Unscrew and remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body.

(2) The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units; namely, the air horn, main body and throttle body and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

NOTE: It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts.

Cleaning Carburetor Parts

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. There are other commercial solvents, however, such as

Metalclene, which may be used with satisfactory results.

Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme, it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.

The choke diaphragm can be damaged by solvents.

Avoid placing the diaphragm assembly in ANY liquid. Clean the external surfaces with a clean cloth or soft wire brush. Shake dirt or other foreign material from the stem side of the diaphragm. Depressing the diaphragm stem to the retracted position, will provide an additional hole for the removal of dirt.

Compressed air can be used to remove loose dirt but should not be connected to the vacuum inlet fitting.

IMPORTANT: If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, i t should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure.

It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean gasoline or kerosene to be certain no trace performance.

of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the fuel mixture too rich for proper

4 INSPECTION A N D REASSEMBLY

(1) During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer ports and the spark advance control ports to the valves are carefully established for one particular assembly (Fig. 9).

(2) If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship

Fig.

—Removing

the M a i n Metering

Jets Fig.

9 — P o r t s in Relation to the Throttle V a l v e s

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4-8 WWC3

CARBURETOR

THROTTLE

BODY

THROTTLE VALVES

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING

SCREW

FAST IDLE SPEED

SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER A N D

SHAFT

DRIVE PLUGS

POWER BY-PASS JET

G A S K E T .

FULCRUM PIN

SPRING -

FUEL INLET NEEDLE

VALVE SEAT AND GASKET

FLOAT BAFFLEv. ^

FULCRUM PIN

ATTACHING S C R E W S

VENTURI CLUSTER

GASKET

DISCHARGE

CHECK BALL

INLET CHECK BALL

(PUMP)

MAIN BODY IDLE MIXTURE

SCREWS

SPRING

FLOAT

THROTTLE VALVE SCREWS

63x492

MAIN METERING JETS

PASSAGE PLUGS 6 0 x 3 4 3

Fig.

10 —Throttle Body (Disassembled View)

Fig. 11—Main Body (Disassembled View) would adversely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. If it has been determined, however, that a new shaft or valves are to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions:

(3) Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced in the same bore from where removed (if replacing throttle shaft only. Fig. 10.)

(4) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the shaft. Slide the valves out of shaft and bore.

CAUTION; These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used at removal so as not to break the screws in the shaft.

Remove the staking with a file.

(5) Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the throttle body.

(6) Install the new throttle shaft and lever in the throttle body.

NOTE: The idle speed adjusting screw must be backed off when seating the valves in the following operation.

(7) Slide the valves down into position with the notches in the valves at the ports. Install new screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves in place with the fingers pressing on the high side of valves.

(8) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the thrdttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(9) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and spring in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth.) If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. The idle mixture screw adjustment should be made with the fingers.

Turn the screws lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn for an approximate setting.

5 . M A I N B O D Y A S S E M B L Y ( F i g . 1 1 1

(1) Place a new gasket on the throttle body, then install main body. Install two short screws to secure,

(2) Install the main metering jets in the main body.

Tighten securely, using Tool T109-173 (Fig. 8).

(3) Install the power by-pass jet and new gasket.

Tighten securely, using Tool 73598 (Big. 7).

(4) Install the accelerator pump inlet check ball

inch) in the pump well, as shown in Figure 12.

(5) Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball (Va inch) in the discharge passage, as shown in

Figure 13.

I 1 PUMP INLET

- ~ ^ ~ - - < .

\ i , jCHECK BALL

ACCELERATOR

< PUMP WELL

63x493

Fig.

12 —Installing Accelerator Pump Inlet Check Ball

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WWC3 CARBURETOR 14 -9

Fig.l3<—-Installing the Discharge Check Ball

6. ACCELERATOR PUMP TEST

(1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl approximately

inch deep. Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and slide down in its well.

Raise the plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel the air from the pump passage.

(2) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly down on its seat. Raise the pump plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either intake or discharge passage, as shown in Figure 14.

(3) If any fuel does emit from either the intake or discharge passages, it indicates the presence of dirt or an imperfect seat. The passages should be recleaned and then thoroughly blown out with compressed air. Examine the ball seat for signs of damage that would not allow the ball to seat properly.

(4) Reinstall the check ball and test again. If still leaking, place a piece of drill rod down on the check ball and rap sharply with a hammer. Remove the old check ball and install a new one. Then retest.

(This operation forms a new ball seat in the carburetor casting.)

(5) Install the venturi cluster gasket and slide the venturi cluster down into position (Fig. 6). Install attaching screws and tighten securely.

Again depress the accelerator plunger. A clear straight stream should emit from each jet orifice. If streams are not identical (if either one is restricted or diverted), remove venturi cluster and reclean.

After test, pour gasoline from the bowl and remove the pump plunger.

(6) Check the float for leaks or damage. If satisfactory for further service, install in position in the bowl.

(7) Assemble the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket, then insert in the main body. Tighten securely. (If the needle valve is ridged or grooved, or badly worn, a new synthetic rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle valve assembly should be installed.)

Setting the Fiomi Height

The carburetor is equipped with a synthetic rubbertipped fuel inlet needle.

(1) Invert the main body so that the weight of the floats only is forcing the needle against the seat.

Be sure hinge pin does not drop out of the float hinge.

Hold down with the fulcrum pin spring.

(2) Using Tool 73725 or a "T" scale, measure the float level, as shown in Figure 15. There should be

inch from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of the float at the center.

Fig. 14—Testing Accelerator Pump Discharge and

Inlet Check Balls Fig. 1 5 —Measuring the Float Setting

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14-10

WWC3

CARBURETOR

If an adjustment is necessary, remove the needle valve and seat, the fulcrum pin retainer spring, the floats and fulcrum pin. Bend the lip of the float lever either in or out until correct setting has been obtained.

CAUTION; Do not attempt to change the setting without removing the float, as the synthetic rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting, which bowl.

will affect correct level of fuel In the

NOTE: It is important that the float lip is perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

Do not bend the float lip by forcing the float, use Tool 73605.

(3) Install float, needle and seat and tighten seat securely. Slide the float baffle down into position and install the fulcrum pin spring. Remeasure as described in Step 2 above.

A i r H o r n

Assembly (Fig. 161

(1) Slide the choke shaft and lever into the air horn with the choke lever pointing down and away from the air horn. Slide the choke valve down into the slot in the shaft.

(2) Hold the choke valve closed and install new screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN. While holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with a screwdriver, to center and locate the valve.

(3) Tighten attaching screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers. Reinstall the fast idlfe lever and secure with lockwasher and nut.

(4) Soak the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline. Test the leather. If the leather is hard, cracked, or worn, install a new pump plunger. Be

CHOKE VALVE SCREWS sure and flex the leather several times before installing plunger in air horn.)

(5) Slide the compression spring over plunger shaft, then slide plunger over hook and into position (Fig. 4).

(6) Install a new air horn gasket, then install the vacuum power piston in air horn. Lock the piston in position by prick punching on the retaining rim.

Compress the piston plunger to be sure no binding exists. If the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder smooth operation, install a new piston assembly.

(7) Install the air horn assembly on the main body, guiding the pump plunger into its well (Fig. 2). (Be sure the leather does not curl or fold back.) Install retaining screws and tighten securely.

NOTE: The choke valve must be held partially closed while installing the air horn.

(8) Remove the two short screws holding the main body and throttle body together (Fig.

2), and install in air horn. Reinstall the two long screws and tighten securely.

(9) Install the fast idle rod and secure with the hairpin clip.

(10) Install the pump rod and secure with hairpin clip. (Be sure rod is in the center slot of arm, refer to Figure 1.) Work the accelerator pump plunger several times to be sure it operates smoothly.

Installing the Vacuum Diaphragm

(1) Install the diaphragm assembly on the air horn and tighten the attaching screws securely.

(2) Install the choke operating link in position between the diaphragm stem (plunger) and the choke lever. Install the clip to secure.

(3) Inspect the vacuum diaphragm fitting and remove any dirt or foreign material which could plug the passage. Inspect the rubber vacuum hose for cracks before placing it on the correct vacuum fitting. (Refer to Fig. 1.)

Do not connect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm fitting until after the vacuum kick adjustment has been made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)

AIR HORN

FAST IDLE LEVER

BOWL VENT

VALYE SPRING

BOWL VENT

VALVE ~ x

G U A R D d

^VACUUM P O W E !

PISTON

Fig.

16 — Air Horn (Disassembled View)

NUT

OCKWASHER

63 x 496A

7. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

It is very important that the following adjustments be made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed:

(a) Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position Setting.

(b) Vacuum Kick Adjustment.

(c) Unloader Adjustment (Wide Open Kick).

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WWC3 CARBURETOR 14-11

LIGHT CLOSING PRESSURE

APPLIED T O CHOKE SHAFT

G A U G E OR DRILL

AT WIDEST

CHOKE OPENING

(d) Accelerator Pump Travel.

(e) Bowl Vent Valve Setting. i fast Idle Speed and Cam Posit ion

Adjustment

The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be made on the vehicle, as described in the "Fast Idle

Speed Adjustment" (On the vehicle) paragraph of this group, however, the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be made on the bench, as follows:

(1) With the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacting the lowest step on the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 17, move the choke valve toward the closed position with light pressure. Insert a VA inch drill or gauge (Auto. Trans.)

inch (Manual Trans.) between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.

(2) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.

(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle rod at the upper angle, using Tool T109-213, until the correct valve opening has been obtained.

Vacuum Kick Adjustment — (This test can be made

ON or OFF the vehicle.

To make the vacuum kick adjustment, the vacuum diaphragm must be energized (either a distributor testing machine with a vacuum source, or vacuum supplied by another vehicle.) To make this adjustment, proceed as follows:

(1) With the engine Not running, open the throttle valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be moved to the closed position.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and connect the hose from the vacuum supply, as shown in Figure 18. (A minimum of 10

FAST IDLE

ADJUSTING

SCREW O N

LOWEST STEP

AND AGAINST

FACE O F NEXT

CAM STEP

SCREW

G A U G E OR DRILL AT

WIDEST CHOKE OPENING

LIGHT C L O S I N G

PRESSURE

AGAINST

CHOKE

VALVE

FAST IDLE ROD

(BEND AT

THIS POINT)

FAST IDLE

ADJUSTING

SCREW

Fig.

1 7 — F a s t Idle Speed a n d Cam Position

Adjustment

64x233

TO VACUUM

SOURCE

MINIMUM

OF 10 INCHES

OF VACUUM

REQUIRED O N

DIAPHRAGM

DIAPHRAGM STEM

C H O K E

OPERATING LINK

(PLUNGER) RETRACTED * 64x234

Fig.

18 — Measuring the Choice V a c u u m Kick Setting inches of mercury (HG) will be required).

(3) Insert a %

inch drill or gauge (Manual Transmission) or an inch (Automatic Transmission) between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.

(Refer to Fig. 18.) Apply a slight closing pressure to the choke shaft to hold the drill or gauge in position.

(4) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.

The adjustment of this opening will require the removal of the choke operating link.

CAUTION: D A M A G E TO T H E DIAPHRAGM A N D

THE CHOKE L E V E R SLOT CAN R E S U L T , IF THE

LINK IS NOT REMOVED FOR THE BENDING OP-

ERATION.

(5) Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the choke lever, then disengage the link from the diaphragm stem. (The best bending results will be obtained by using a vise and a pair of pliers.)

(6) Bend the choke operating link at the angle to provide the correct choke valve opening.

CAUTION: A correction in the length el the link of

.010 inch, will result in a change of .010 inch in the choke valve opening.

As an example, if the choke valve opening is .010 inch in error, the correction in the link length would be .010 inch.

A 2" micrometer will be helpful in establishing the original length of the link, as shown in Figure 19, before completing the adjustment.

(7) Install the choke operating link and remeasure the choke valve opening, using a gauge or drill. (Refer to Fig. 18.)

14-12

WWC3

CARBURETOR

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F i g . 1 9 — C h o k e Operating

Link

Measurements

Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and make the following test:

(8) With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm, some clearance should exist between the choke operating link and the choke lever slot, i n both the open and closed choke valve positions, as shown in Figure 20.

This clearance is necessary to allow the choke valve to close for starting as well as.

fully open after the

.engine reaches

If a clearance tions, a retest be made.

the normal operating temperature.

does not exist i n both of these posi-

of the operating

FREE movement of closed and open

link adjustment should

the choke

positions is

valve between the

very necessary.

This free movement should also exist between the lrick and the open choke valve positions with the engine running.

I f binding does exist, the choke opera-

Fig. 2 1 — U n l o a d e r Adjustment (Wide O p e n Kick) ting link has been improperly bent and should be corrected.

Unloader Adjustment (Wide Open Kick)

(Wig® 21) \ • "

(1) Lightly hold the choke valve closed, then open the throttle valves to the wide open position. The choke valve should be open sufficiently to allow a x

inch drill to be inserted between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn as shown.

(2) To adjust, bend the tang on the throttle lever, using Tool T109-214, until correct opening has been obtained.

CHOKE VALVE WIDE OPEN CLEARANCE

(3) Hold the choke valve open and then open and close the throttle valves. Failure to obtain full throttle operation indicates improper assembly.

(4) With the throttle valves held in an open posif i g .

20— Choke Opening Link Clearances F i g . 2 2 — A c c e l e r a t o r Pump Travel

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VVWC3 CARBURETOR 14-13 tion, the choke valve should fall open freely. There should be no bind throughout the entire travel of the choke mechanism.

A c c e l e r a t o r Pump Travel (Fig. 22)

(1) With the throttle valves fully closed, measure the pump travel from the fully closed to the fully open throttle.

(2) This travel should be %

inch as shown.

(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the pump rod at the point shown, using Tool T109-213, until correct travel has been obtained.

FAST IDLE CAM *

CHOKE VALVE

IN WIDE OPEN

POSITION

FAST IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

O N LOWEST

STEP O F C A M

CURB IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

Bowl Vent Valve Setting (Fig. 23)

This setting is made after the pump travel setting.

(1) With the throttle valves at curb idle, there should be »%

inch clearance between the bowl vent valve and the air horn, when measured (at the center of the vent valve and the seat) with a gauge or drill shank.

(2) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the bowl vent lever, using Tool T109-214, until the correct opening has been obtained.

Fast Idle Speed Adjustment ( On the

Engine)

-THROTTLE

64x240

Fig. 24—Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the Carl

(4) Repeat the idle mixture screw adjustment.

Idle Speed Adjustment

For the best results, it is recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment.

(1) Turn the idle speed screw in or out to obtain

500 rpm. (On vehicles with air conditioning, set the idle speed at 500 rpm, with air conditioning ON). Be sure the choke valve is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam (engine off fast idle).

To set the fast idle speed on the engine connect a tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed and proceed as follows:

(1) With the engine running and the transmission in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.

(2) Close the choke valve about 20 degrees then allow the throttle to close. Return the choke valve to the open position.

(2) Turn each idle mixture screw in or out until smooth idle is obtained.

(3) The fast idle speed adjusting screw should be contacting the lowest step on the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 24.

(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the idle speed screw.

G A U G E INSERTED

BETWEEN VALVE

AND SEAT

(4) With the engine warmed-up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle speed ad-

CHOKE VALVE

WIDE OPEN justing screw in or out to secure 700 r.p.m. (Automatic

Transmission) or 600 r.p.m. (Manual Transmission).

Reposition the cam and throttle after each adjustment.

THROTTLE

CLOSED

Measuring the Float Setting or Fuel Level

THROTTLE y 7 ,

J " VALVES

AT CURB

IDLE

POSITION

(On the Vehicle)

Remove the three short air horn to main body attaching screws. Then remove one long air horn to throttle body screw next to fuel bowl and assemble short screw through main body flange and thread into the throttle body. Remove long screw from side away from fuel bowl and on opposite side and as-

BOWL VENT LEVER

(BEND A S REQUIRED

AT THIS POINT) semble short screw through main body flange. Securely tighten. Remove the air horn as follows:

64x239

Fig. 23 — Measuring Bowl Vent Valve Opening

(1) Remove the spring clip and disconnect the choke operating rod.

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14-14 WWC3 CARBURETOR

(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disconnect the fast idle rod.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod in the center slot of the pump arm. Disconnect the pump rod.

(4) Remove the remaining two long screws and lift off the air horn.

Check the float setting as follows:

(1) Seat the float fulcrum pin by pressing finger against the fulcrum pin spring.

There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise the float so that the lip bears firmly against the needle. Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly depressing the float. If the fuel pressure in the line is insufficient to force additional fuel into the bowl, add the necessary fuel from a clean container.

C A U T I O N : S i n c e the m a n i f o l d s may be hot, it is d a n g e r o u s to s p i l l f u e l onto t h e s e s u r f a c e s . T h e r e f o r e , t a k e the n e c e s s a r y p r e c a u t i o n s to avoid spillage.

(2) With only the pressure from the buoyant float holding the lip against the inlet needle, check the float setting, using Tool 73725 or "T" scale. There should be %

inch from the surface of the bowl (gasket removed) to the top of the float at the center.

If an adjustment is necessary, hold the float on the bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward or away from the needle, using Tool 73605. Recheck the %

inch setting again, then repeat the lip bending operation as required.

CAUTION: W h e n b e n d i n g t h e float l i p , do not a l l o w the lip to p u s h against the n e e d l e a s the r u b b e r tip c a n be c o m p r e s s e d sufficiently to cause a f a l s e setting w h i c h w i l l affect c o r r e c t level of f u e l in t h e bowl. A f t e r being c o m p r e s s e d , the r u b b e r tip is v e r y slow to recover its o r i g i n a l s h a p e .

It is very important that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

(3) Reassemble the air horn.

8 . A U T O M A T I C C H O K E £ W e i ! T y p e )

To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than an occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no servicing. It is very important, however, that the choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft.

Move the choke rod up and down to test for free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. If the unit binds, a new unit should be installed.

NOTE: T h e w e l l type c h o k e u n i t is s e r v i c e d o n l y a s a c o m p l e t e u n i t . D o not a t t e m p t to r e p a i r .

When installing the well type choke unit, m a k e certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the well. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation.

Do not lubricate any of the choke parts or the control unit, since this causes dirt to accumulate which would result in a binding condition of the choke mechanism.

Do not attempt to change the calibration setting.

This is pre-determined and should it be changed, improper choke action would result.

The choke control unit is accurately adjusted when originally assembled. Under normal service operation, it is recommended not to change the setting, or to disassemble the components for servicing. If, however, the setting has been disturbed, reset as follows:

Loosen locknut and turn part with screwdriver until index mark on disc coincides with the first mark to the right of center mark on the bracket. Hold in this position with screwdriver while tightening nut.

N O T E : A f t e r a d j u s t m e n t is m a d e a n d t h e c h o k e u n i t i n s t a l l e d o n the e n g i n e , lift t h e c o v e r d i s c a n d c h e c k to s e e that the rod h a s c l e a r a n c e w h e n t h e c h o k e is o p e n e d a n d c l o s e d . T h e rod s h o u l d h a v e c l e a r a n c e at hole i n cover plate.

S h o u l d It b e c o m e n e c e s s a r y to a d j u s t t h e t h r o t t l e l i n k a g e , r e f e r to F i g u r e IS f o r t h e complete i n s t r u c tions.

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BSD CARBURETOR 14-15

BOWL VENT

VALVE

UNLOADER

T A N G

FAST IDLE

C A M

ACCELERATOR

PUMP ROD

FAST IDLE

SPEED ADJUSTING

SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER

VENT HOLE

CURB IDLE

SPEED ADJUSTING

SCREW

FAST IDLE

SPEED ADJUSTING

SCREW

FAST IDLE

CONNECTOR ROD

CURB IDLE

SPEED ADJUSTING

SCREW

CLOSED CRANKCASE

VENT TUBE FITTING

ELEVATOR LEGS

(SET OF

4 )

CHOKE VALVE AIR HORN

CHOKE LEVER

CHOKE OPERATING

LINK

CARBURETOR

IDENTIFICATION

T A G

M A I N BODY .

DISTRIBUTOR V A C U U M

ADVANCE TUBE FITTING

CHOKE V A C U U M

DIAPHRAGM

V A C U U M

DIAPHRAGM

HOSE

THROTTLE BODY

64 x 328

Fig.

1 —Carburetor Assembly (BBD-3685IS)

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14-16 BBD CARBURETOR

PART 2 MODEL BBD 3685S CARBURETORS

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of job. All parts (except the diaphragm assembly) should the main causes for poor carburetor operation. Proper be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent and incleaning, however, and installation of new parts, spected for damage and wear. Replace questionable where required, will return the carburetor to its parts with new ones. originally designed performance.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items Use air pressure only, to clear the various orifices of importance should be observed to assure a good and passages.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1 CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY ( F i g . 1 )

(1) Insert three Tool T109-287S and one Tool T109-

288S elevating legs through the carburetor throttle body stud holes. (These tools are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)

(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the fast idle connector rod from the throttle and fast idle levers.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the accelerator pump rod from the throttle lever and the pump rocker arm.

(4) Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor throttle body fitting and the vacuum diaphragm.

(5) Remove the clip from the choke operating link and disengage the link from the diaphragm plunger and the choke lever. (Refer to Fig. 1.)

(6) Remove the vacuum diaphragm and bracket assembly and place to one side, to be cleaned as a special item. A liquid cleaner other than mineral spirits, may damage the diaphragm material.

(7) Remove the air horn retaining screws and lift air horn straight up and away from the main body.

Discard the gasket.

(8) Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from the accelerator pump arm by pushing up on the bottom of the plunger and sliding the plunger shaft off the hook. Slide the plunger out of the air horn and remove the compression spring and seat.

If the old plunger can be used again or if a new plunger is to be installed, place the plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

(9) Remove the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket from the main body.

(10) Lift out the float fulcrum pin retainer, and lift out the floats and fulcrum pin.

(11) Remove the step-up piston and retaining screw and slide the step-up piston and rods out of well, as shown in Figure 2. lift out the step-up piston

SPECIAL

T O O L

64 x 329

STEP-UP PISTON

SPRING

-RETAINING SCREW

60x102

Fig. %— Removing the Step-up Piston

Fig.

3 —Removing the Main

STEP-UP RODS

MAIN

METERING

JETS

MAIN

METERING

JETS

Metering Jet

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BBD CARBURETOR 14-17

GASKETS

VENTURI

CLUSTER

ACCELERATOR PUMP

DISCHARGE HOLES

if

ACCELERATOR PUMP

DISCHARGE PASSAGE provide an additional hole for the removal of dirt.

Compressed air can be used to remove loose dirt but should not be connected to the vacuum inlet fitting.

IMPORTANT:

If the

commercial

solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be " H O T . " After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains.

Never clean jets with a

wire,

drill or other mechanical means, because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too

rich

for

proper performance.

VENTURI CLUSTER

SCREWS

Fjg.

4 —Removing the Venturi Cluster

6 4 x 3 3 0 spring. Remove the step-up piston gasket from the bottom of the well.

(12) Remove the main metering jets and gaskets, as shown in Figure 3.

(13) Remove the venturi cluster screws, then lift the venturi cluster and gaskets up and away from the main body, as shown in Figure 4. Discard the gaskets.

Do not remove the idle orifice tubes or the main vent

tubes

from

the cluster.

They can be cleaned in a solvent arid dried with compressed air.

(14) Invert the carburetor and drop out the accelerator pump discharge check ball.

(15) Remove the idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body.

(16) Remove the screws that attach the throttle body to the main body. Separate the bodies and discard the gasket.

The carburetor now has been disassembled into three sub-assemblies, the air horn, main body and throttle body and the components of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves from the throttle body, unless wear or damage necessitates the installation of new parts.

3 .

INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY

Throttle Body

(1) Inspect the throttle shaft and throttle body for excessive wear. If either or both are worn to the point where the carburetor operation will be affected, replace as required.

During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control ports to the throttle valve, is carefully established for one particular assembly (Fig. 5).

If a new shaft should be installed in an old, worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of the ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the relationship of the valves to the ports would adversely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour.

If it has been determined, however, that a new shaft or valves is to be installed, adhere to the following instructions.

(2) Mark the position of the throttle valves in the bores. Be sure the idle speed screw is backed off.

(3) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the shaft and slide the valves out of the bores.

I D L

7 o R T S

S F E R

SPARK ADVANCE

PORT

CLEANING

CARBURETOR

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. There are other commercial solvents, however, which may be used with satisfactory results.

The choke diaphragm can be damaged by solvents.

Avoid placing the diaphragm assembly in

A N Y

liquid.

Clean the external surfaces with a clean cloth or soft wire brush. Shake dirt or other foreign material from the stem side of the diaphragm. Depressing the diaphragm plunger (stem) to the retracted position, will

VENT HOLE

Fig.

5 — P o r t s in R e l a t i o n to Throttle V a l v e s

6 4 x 3 3 1

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14-18 BBD CARBURETOR

CAUTION: These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should he

used

at removal so as not to break off in the shaft. Remove the staked end of the screws with a file.

(4) Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the body.

(5) Install new throttle shaft and lever.

(6) Install throttle valves in their respective bores

(with the valve number toward the manifold). Install new screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves in place, with the fingers pressing on the high sides of the valves. Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(7) Install the idle mixture screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, new idle mixture screws should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.) DO

NOT U S E A S C R E W D R I V E R .

Turn the screws lightly against their seats with the fingers. Back off one full turn for approximate adjustment.

Main Body

(1) Invert the main body and place a new gasket in position and place the throttle body on the main body and align. Install screws and tighten securely.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball in the discharge passage and check the accelerator pump system; fuel inlet and discharge check balls as follows:

(3) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl, approximately Vi inch deep. Remove the pump plunger from the jar of gasoline, flex the leather several times, then slide down into the pump cylinder.

Raise the plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel all air from the pump passage.

(4) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball down firmly on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage, as shown in Figure 6.

If any fuel does emit from either passage it indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check ball seat. Check the passage again and repeat test. If leakage is still evident, install a new check ball.

The fuel inlet check ball is located at the bottom of the plunger well.

(5) Install new gaskets on the venturi cluster, and install in position in the main body (Fig. 4). Install the idle bleed screws and tighten securely. Test pump discharge by pressing pump plunger down. Two fine streams of fuel should be forced from the cluster.

If either stream is restricted or diverted, remove cluster and reclean. After test, pour the fuel from the bowl and remove pump plunger.

(6) Install the main metering jets and gaskets.

Tighten securely (Fig. 3).

(7) Before installing the step-up piston, be sure the step-up rods are able to move freely, each side of the vertical position, as shown in Figure 7. The step-up rods must be straight and smooth.

(8) Slide the step-up piston gasket down into position in the piston well, then install the step-up piston springs, step-up piston and rods. Carefully guide the step-up rods into the main metering jets (Fig. 2).

Install the retaining screw and tighten securely. Check piston for free operation in the well.

A step-up piston stuck in the Up position will cause a rich mixture at part throttle, whereas a piston stuck in the Down position will cause a lean mixture at wide open throttle and poor acceleration.

Fig.

—Testing the Accelerator Pump Intake a n d

Discharge Check Balls

STEP-UP R O D S MUST M O V E FREELY

Fig. 7 — S t e p Up Rods Free Play

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BBD CARBURETOR 14-19 bowl.

Fig.

8— Measuring the Float Setting

Measuring the Float Setting

(Off

the Vehicle)

The carburetors are equipped with a rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle. The rubber tip is flexible enough to make a good seal on the needle seat, and to give increased resistance to flooding.

The use of the rubber-tipped needle requires a new procedure in adjusting the float setting. Care should be taken to perform this operation accurately in order to secure the best performance and fuel economy.

(1) To correctly set the float height when the carburetor is being overhauled, install the floats with the fulcrum pin and pin retainer in the main body.

(2) Install the rubber-tipped needle, seat and gasket in the body and tighten securely.

(3) Invert the main body so that the weight of the float only is forcing the needle against the seat. Hold finger against the retainer to fully seat the fulcrum pin.

(4) Using Tool T109-282, or a "T" scale, measure the float, as shown in Figure 8. There should be VA inch from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of each float at the center.

If an adjustment is necessary, hold the floats on the bottom of the bowl and bend the float lip toward or away from the needle. Recheck the VA inch setting again and repeat the lip bending operation as required.

CAUTION: When bending the float lip, da not allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the

NOTE: After being compressed, the rubber tip is very slow to recover its original shape* It is very important that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float height is correct.

Air Horn

(1) Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the bearings, or appears to be gummed from deposits in the air horn, a thorough cleaning will be required.

(2) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the gasoline, slide the compression spring and spring seat over the shaft. Install the assembly in the air horn and engage with the accelerator pump arm.

(3) Place a new gasket on the main body, and install the air horn. Install attaching screws and tighten securely. (When installing air horn, be sure the leather on the plunger does not wrinkle or fold back.)

(4) Engage the accelerator pump rod with the pump rocker arm and install loose end in the center hole of throttle lever. Install hairpin clip to secure.

(5) Engage the fast idle connector rod in the fast idle lever and throttle lever. Install hairpin clip to secure.

Installing the Vacuum Diaphragm

(1) Install the diaphragm assembly on the air horn and tighten the attaching screws securely.

(2) Install the choke operating link in position between the diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke lever. Install the clip to secure.

(3) Inspect the vacuum diaphragm fitting and remove any dirt or foreign material which could plug the passage. Inspect the rubber hose for cracks, before placing it on the correct fitting. (Refer to Fig. 1.)

Do not connect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm fitting until after the vacuum kick adjustment has been made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)

4 . CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

It is very important that the following adjustments are made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed:

A c c e l e r a t o r

Pump

(1) Back off the idle speed adjusting screw. Open the choke valve so that the fast idle cam allows the throttle valves to be completely seated in the bores.

Be sure that the pump connector rod is installed in the center hole of the throttle lever.

(2) Close the throttle valves tightly. Measure the

-20 BBD CARBURETOR

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Fig.

9 —Measuring the Accelerator Pump Travel distance between the top of the air horn and the end of plunger shaft, as shown in Figure 9. This measurement should be 1" + or —

inch.

(3) To adjust the pump setting, bend the pump connector rod, using Tool T109-213, at the lower angle of rod, until the correct travel has been obtained.

Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position

Adjustment

The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be made on the engine, as described in the Fast Idle

Speed Adjustment (On the engine) paragraph of this group, however, the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be made on the bench, as follows:

(1) With the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacting the lowest step on the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 10, move the choke valve toward the closed position with light pressure. Insert a *%

inch drill or gauge between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.

Fig. 10—-Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment

Fig. 11—Measuring the Choke Vacuum Kick Setting

(2) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.

(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the stop on the choke shaft, using Tool T109-22 until the correct valve opening has been obtained. (Refer to Fig. 10.)

Vacuum Kick Adjustment — (This test can be made

On or Off the vehicle.)

To make the vacuum kick adjustment, the vacuum diaphragm must be energized (either a distributor testing machine with a vacuum source, or vacuum supplied by another vehicle). To make this adjustment, proceed as follows:

(1) With the engine Not running, open the throttle valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be moved to the closed position.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and connect the hose from the Vacuum supply, as shown in Figure 11. (A minimum of 10 inches of mercury (HG) will be required.)

(3) Insert a

inch drill or gauge between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn (Refer to

Fig. 11). Apply a slight closing pressure to the choke shaft to hold the drill or gauge in position.

(4) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.

The adjustment of this opening will require the removal of the choke operating link.

C A U T I O N : D A M A G E T O T H E D I A P H R A G M A N D

T H E C H O K E L E V E R S L O T C A N R E S U L T , IF T H E

L I N K IS NOT R E M O V E D F O R THE B E N D I N G OP-

E R A T I O N .

(5) Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the diaphragm stem (plunger), then disengage the link from the choke lever. (The

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BBD CARBURETOR 14-21

Fig. 12—Choke Operating Link Measurements Fig. 14 — Measuring the Choke Unloader Setting best bending results will be obtained by using a vise and a pair of pliers.)

(6) Bend the choke operating link to provide the correct choke valve opening.

C A U T I O N : A c o r r e c t i o n in t h e length of t h e l i n k of .010

i n c h , w i l l r e s u l t i n a c h a n g e of .010

i n c h in t h e c h o k e v a l v e o p e n i n g .

As an example, if the choke valve opening is .010 inch in error, the correction in the link length would be .010 inch.

A 2" micrometer will be helpful in establishing the original length of the link, as shown in Figure 12, before completing the adjustment.

(7) Install the choke operating link and retest the choke valve opening, using a gauge or drill. (Refer to Fig. 11.)

Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and make the following test:

(8) With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm, some clearance should exist between the choke operating link and the choke lever slot, in both the open and closed choke valve positions, as shown in

Figure 13.

N O T E : T h i s c l e a r a n c e i s n e c e s s a r y to a l l o w t h e c h o k e v a l v e to close f o r s t a r t i n g a s w e l l a s f u l l y o p e n position a f t e r t h e e n g i n e r e a c h e s t h e n o r m a l o p e r a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e .

If a clearance does not exist in both of these positions, a retest of the operating link adjustment should be made.

N O T E : F r e e m o v e m e n t of t h e c h o k e v a l v e b e t w e e n the closed a n d open positions is v e r y n e c e s s a r y .

This free movement should also exist between the kick and the open choke valve positions with the engine running. If binding does exist, the choke operating link has been improperly bent and should be corrected.

Fig. 13 — Choke Operating Link Clearances Fig. IS — Bending the Unloader Tang

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14-22 BBD CARBURETOR

Choke Unloader (Wide O p e n JOcJcJ

(1) Hold the throttle valves in the wide open position. Insert Tool T109-31 or a W drill shank) between the speed screw, the speed obtained after finding the leanest smooth idle will probably be too fast. the upper edge of the choke valve and the inner wall of the air horn, as shown in Figure 14.

(2) With a finger lightly pressing against the valve, a slight drag should be felt as the gauge is being

(5) Readjust the speed screw to obtain correct idle speed. Repeat steps 2 and 4 above if necessary.

After the proper idle speed has been obtained, move the sliding link to the rear against the stop and tighten the nut securely. withdrawn. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the

5 .

M E A S U R I N G THE FLOAT SETTING

OR tang on the fast idle lever, ^ as

FUEL LEVEL ( O n t h e V e h i c l e ) shown in Figure 15, until the correct clearance has

To measure the float setting with the carburetor been obtained. mounted on the engine, proceed as follows:

Bowl Vent Volve Adjustment

(1) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the

(1) With the throttle valves at curb idle, there accelerator pump rod from the throttle lever and should be y

1 6

inch clearance between the bowl vent the pump rocker arm. Disconnect the automatic valve and the air horn, when measured (at the center choke rod by unsnapping clip. of the vent valve and the seat) with a drill shank.

(2) Remove the air horn attaching screws and lift

(2) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the short the air horn straight up and away from the main tang on the vent valve operating lever, using Tool body. Remove the gasket.

T109-22 until the correct opening has been obtained.

(3) Set the float fulcrum pin by pressing a finger

Idle S p e e d Adjustment (Curb Idlei against the fulcrum pin retainer.

To make the idle speed adjustment, the engine

There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise must be thoroughly warmed up. A more reliable idle the floats so that the lip bears firmly against the adjustment can usually be obtained if the car has needle. Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly been driven a minimum of five miles. For best results, depressing the float. If the fuel pressure in the line it is recommended that a tachometer be used in this is insufficient to force the additional fuel into the adjustment. bowl, add the necessary fuel from a clean container.

On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission,

WARNING: Since the manifolds may be hot, it loosen the nut in the sliding link of the carburetor is dangerous to spill fuel onto these surfaces. Take to bellcrank rod so that the stop in the transmission the necessary precautions to avoid spillage. will not interfere with the free movement of the carburetor throttle lever.

(4) With only the pressure from the buoyant float

(1) To make the idle speed adjustment, turn the holding the lip against the inlet needle, check the idle speed screw in or out to obtain 500 rpm. (6n float setting, using Tool T109-282, or a " T " scale. cars with air conditioning, set the idle speed at 500

There should be V A inch from the surface of the rpm.) With air conditioning ON be sure the choke bowl (gasket removed) to the crown of the floats at valve is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting the center. screw is not contacting the fast idle cam.

If an adjustment is necessary, hold the floats on

(2) Turn each idle mixture screw in or out to obtain the bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward the highest rpm. While making the adjustment, careor away from the needle. Recheck the V A inch setting fully watch the tachometer and notice that the speed again, then repeat the lip bending operation as required. can be decreased by turning the screws in either direction from the setting that gave the highest rpm

CAUTION: When bending the float lip, do not reading. allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber

(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the idle speed screw. tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false

(With air conditioning ON). setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the

(4) Turn each idle mixture adjusting screw in the bowl. clockwise direction (leaner) until there is a slight

NOTE: After being compressed, the rubber tip drop in rpm. Turn each screw out, counterclockwise is very slow to recover its original shape. I t is very

(richer) just enough to regain the lost rpm. important that the float lip be perpendicular to the

This procedure will assure that the idle has been needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away set to the leanest mixture possible for smooth idle. from the needle when the float is set correctly.

This setting is very important.

Since the correct speed was originally set, using

(5) After the float has been correctly set, reassemble the air horn.

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BBD CARBURETOR 14-23

Fig. 17 — Closed Crankcase Vent System

Fig. 16 — Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the Engine)

Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the

Engine)

To set the fast idle speed on the engine, connect a tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed and proceed as follows:

(1) With the engine running and the transmission in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.

(2) Close the choke valve about 20 degrees then allow the throttle to close. Return the choke valve to the open position.

(3) The fast idle adjusting screw should be contacting the lowest step on the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 16.

(4) With the engine warmed-up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle adjusting screw in or out to secure 700 rpm. Reposition the earn and throttle after each adjustment.

6 . A U T O M A T I C C H O K E — W E L L TYPE

To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than an occasional cleaning, the choke requires no servicing. It is very important, however, that the choke control unit work freely in the well and at the choke shaft.

Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement on the pivot. If the unit binds, a new choke unit should be installed. THE W E L L T Y P E

CHOKE UNIT is serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to repair or change the index setting.

When installing the well type choke unit, be certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the well in the intake manifold. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation.

Do not lubricate any parts of the choke or the control unit. This causes an accumulation of dirt which will result in binding of the choke mechanism.

9. CLOSED C R A N K C A S E VENT SYSTEM

The closed crankcase ventilator valve is located in the crankcase vent tube cap and is connected to the carburetor throttle body with a rubber tube. (See

Fig. 17.)

The function of the valve is to regulate the flow of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase and return them to the intake manifold. From here they enter the combustion chamber and then exit with the exhaust system as completely burned exhaust products. For servicing procedures of this system, refer to "Engine," Group 9.

1 0 . THROTTLE -LINKAGE

To adjust the throttle linkage refer to Figure 18 for the complete instructions.

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4* i

WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION

ASSEMBLE ACCELERATOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY AND PEDAL ASSEMBLY TO

BODY, WITH A 3/16" DIAMETER R O D ® A P P R O X I M A T E L Y TO" LONG

IN THE HOLES PROVIDED IN THE ACCELERATOR SHAFT BRACKET AND

L E V E R , ADJUST THE PEDAL R O D ® L E N G T H TO PROVIDE A PEDAL

ANGLE OF 113° TO 115°INSTALL PEDAL R O D . ®

APPLY A THIN FILM OF MS 3608 LUBRICANT TO THE ACCELERATOR

S H A F T S ? ) WHERE IT TURNS IN THE FIREWALL BRACKET.

3. ASSEMBLE CARBURETOR ROD PARTS BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN ADJUSTMENT

LOCK NUT. ®

"DISCONNECT C H O K E @ A T CARBURETOR OR BLOCK CHOKE VALVE IN

F U L L OPEN POSITION. OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO RELEASE FAST

I D L E CAM, THEN RETURN CARBURETOR TO CURB IDLE.

WITH THE 3/16" DIAMETER BY 10" LONG R O D ® t N P L A C E IN THE

ACCELERATOR SHAFT BRACKET AND L E V E R ASSEMBLY, TIGHTEN CARBU-

RETOR ROD ADJUSTMENT LOCK N U T . ®

CONNECT CHOKE R O D ® O R REMOVE BLOCKING FIXTURE. i

• p " m

•r-

WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

ASSEMBLE ACCELERATOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY AND PEDAL ASSEMBLY TO

BODY. WITH A 3/16" DIAMETER R O D ® A P P R O X I M A T E L Y 10" LONG

IN THE HOLES PROVIDED IN THE ACCELERATOR SHAFT BRACKET AND

LEVER, ADJUST T H E PEDAL R O D ® L E N G T H TO PROVIDE A PEDAL ANGLE

OF 113°TO 115°INSTALL PEDAL R O D . ®

APPLY A THIN FILM OF MS 3608 LUBRICANT TO THE ACCELERATOR

S H A F T ® W H E R E IT TURNS IN THE FIREWALL BRACKET.

3. ASSEMBLE CARBURETOR ROD PARTS BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN ADJUSTMENT

LOCK N U T . ®

4. DISCONNECT C H O K E ® ) A T CARBURETOR OR BLOCK CHOKE VALVE IN

F U L L OPEN POSITION. OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO RELEASE FAST

IDLE CAM, THEN RETURN CARBURETOR TO CURB IDLE.

5. WITH THE TRANSMISSION ROD ASSEMBLY AND TRANSMISSION THROTTLE

L E V E R IN P L A C E , MOVE THE TRANSMISSION THROTTLE L E V E R ® FOR-

WARD AGAINST THE STOP AND TIGHTEN TRANSMISSION ROD ADJUSTMENT

LOCK N U T . ® R E M O V E 3/16" DIAMETER R O D ® F R O M ACCELERATOR

SHAFT BRACKET.

UNTIL TRANSMISSION THROTTLE L E V E R ® STOP IS CONTACTED.

TIGHTEN CARBURETOR ROD ADJUSTMENT LOCK N U T . ®

7. CONNECT CHOKE R O D @ O R REMOVE BLOCKING FIXTURE.

Fig. 18—Throttle Linkage Adjustments

6 3 x 3 6 7

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>TEP UP PISTON COVER PLATE

CHOKE OPERATING LINK

AFB CARBURETOR 14-25

ACCELERATOR

PUMP PLUNGER STEM

FUEL INLET FITTING

CHOKE VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

J 3 l f e ^ ^ " ' ^ '

PLUNGER (STEM)

\ ^ f ^ ^ ^ ^ y . <#^f / - V « r -

SECONDARY THROTTLE

OPERATING LEVER

THROTTLE A N D M A I N BODY

PRIMARY THROTTLE

SHAFT ARM (OUTER)

PRIMARY THROTTLE

SHAFT D O G

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM HOSE

CHOKE OPERATING LINK

CHOKE VACUUM

DIAPHRAGM-

CHOKE LEVER CHOKE VALVE

Y

/>"*^~'

/ HUT >~.

3

STEP UP PISTON

COVER PLATE

CHOKE VACUUM DIAPHRAGM BRACKET

ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM

AIRHORN

DIAPHRAGM

VACUUM HOSE

DISTRIBUTOR

VACUUM ADVANCE

TUBE FITTING

IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING SCREWS

• M i

FAST IDLE

CONNECTOR ROD

FAST IDLE C A M

CURB IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

• THROTTLE LEVER

CLOSED

CRANKCASE VENT

TUBE FITTING

ELEVATING LEGS

(SET OF 4)

ACCELERATOR PUMP

CONNECTOR ROD

Fig. 1—Carburetor Assembly (AFB Series)

FAST IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

64x340

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14-26 AFB CARBURETOR

PART 3 AFB CARBURETORS

The AFB (aluminum four barrel) carburetor contains many features, some of which are the location for the step-up rods and pistons. The step-up rods, pistons and springs are accessible for service without removing the air horn, or the carburetor from the engine.

The venturi assemblies (primary and secondary) are replaceable and contain many of the calibration points for both the high and low speed system. One fuel bowl feeds both the primary and secondary nozzles on the right side while the other fuel bowl takes care of the primary and secondary nozzles on the left side. This provides improved performance in cornering, quick stops and acceleration.

All the major castings of the carburetor are aluminum, with the throttle body cast integral with the main body. This allows an overall height reduction in the carburetor. The section containing the accelerator pump is termed the primary side of the carburetor. The rear section is the secondary.

The five conventional systems are two float systems, two low speed systems (primary side only), two high speed systems, one accelerator pump system and one automatic choke control system.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

S E R V I C I N G THE CARBURETOR

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

When overhauling the AFB carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job.

The carburetor should be carefully disassembled and all parts (except the choke diaphragm assembly) should be cleaned in a suitable solvent and inspected for wear or damage.

Air pressure only should be used to clean the various orifices and channels. Replace questionable parts with new ones.

(4) Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor body and the vacuum diaphragm.

(5) Remove the clip from the choke operating link and disengage the link from the diaphragm plunger

(stem) and the choke lever. (Refer to Fig. 1.)

(6) Remove the vacuum diaphragm and bracket assembly and place to one side to be cleaned as a separate item. A liquid cleaner may damage the diaphragm material.

(7) Remove the screws attaching the step-up piston and rod cover plates.

NOTE: Hold cover down with a finger to prevent the piston and rods from flying out.

STEP UP PISTON

2 , DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR

(Fig* 1 )

(1) Place the carburetor assembly on repair stand

Tool C-3400 or T-109-287S elevating legs.

(2) Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the fast idle connector rod to the choke lever. Disengage rod from lever, then swing rod at an arc until it can be disengaged from the fast idle cam.

(3) Remove the retainer and spring that holds the throttle connector rod in the center hole of the accelerator pump arm. Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the lower end of rod in the primary throttle shaft lever. Disengage rod from arm and lever, then remove from carburetor.

STEP UP

PISTON ROD

STEP UP

PISTON SPRING

SCREW

COVER PLATE SPRING

Fig.

2 —Hemoving Step-up Pistons and Rods

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AFB CARBURETOR 14-27

(8) Lift off the plates and slide the step-up pistons and rods out of the air horn, as shown in Figure 2.

Remove the step-up piston springs.

(9) Remove the ten screws that attach the air horn to the main body (1 screw in hole in air horn). lift air horn straight up and away from the main body.

NOTE: When removing air horn, use care so as not to bend or damage the floats.

(10) Remove the accelerator pump plunger lower spring from the pump cylinder.

Disassembling the Air Horn

Place the air horn in an inverted position on the bench (to protect the floats).

(1) Using a suitable tool, remove the float fulcrum pins (left and right) and lift the floats up and out of bosses on air horn.

NOTE: It is suggested that in their respective positions.

the float on the pump side be marked so that the floats can be re-installed

(2) Remove the two needle valves from their respective seats, after .marking the one on the pump side for identification. Using a wide blade screw driver, remove the needle valve seats. Be sure each needle valve is returned to its original seat at reassembly.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the accelerator pump connector link in the pump arm and plunger ihaft. Disengage link from pump arm and shaft. Slide the accelerator pump pluhger and spring out of the air horn. Remove the air horn to main body gasket and discard.

(4) Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene,, to prevent the leather from drying out. ,

Fig.

4— Removing .Main Metering Jets

(5) Remove the fuel inlet fitting and filter screen from the air horn.

(6) Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the bearings, or appears to be gummed from deposits in the air horn, a thorough cleaning will be required.

Main Body Disassembly

(1) Remove the screws that attach the accelerator pump jet housing to the main body. Lift out the jet housing and gasket, as shown in Figure 3. Discard the gasket. Invert the main bpdy and drop out the discharge check needle from the discharge passage.

(2) Using Tool T109-58 remove the main metering jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 4.

NOTE: The primary and secondary main metering jets are not interchangeable. It is very important that these gets be installed in their respective locations in the main body at reassembly.

A T T A C H I N G S C R E W S I

63x50i|A

Fig.

3— Removing Accelerator Pump Jet Housing Fig.

5*— Removing Primary, Venturi

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14-28 AFB CARBURETOR

(3) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets (primary side).

(4) Remove the screws that attach the primary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body, lift the venturi straight up and away from the main body, as shown in Figure 5. Discard the gaskets.

NOTE: The venturi assemblies are not interchangeable, side for side and must be re-installed in their original location at reassembly.

IDLE DISCHARGE

PORTS PRIMARY THROTTLE

J V A L V E S

(5) Remove the screws that attach the secondary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body. lift the secondary venturi assemblies straight up and away from the body, as shown in Figure 6.

(6) Using Tool T-109-59, screw driver bit, remove the accelerator pump intake check ball assembly. (The check ball assembly is located at the front of the bowl at the base of the accelerator pump cylinder. Be sure that the check ball is thoroughly cleaned before installation.

(7) Remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body portion of the mlin casting.

The carburetor now has been disassembled into two units, the air horn and main and throttle body casting. The component parts of each have been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves, unless wear or damage necessitates

SECONDARY

VENTURI

(PUMP SIDC

GASKET

SECONDARY

VENTURI

(CHOKE SIDE)

IDLE TRANSFER PORTS

Fig.

6 3 x 5 0 5 A

Porfrs in Relation to Throttle Valves the installation of new parts. During the manufacture of the carburetor, the location of the idle transfer ports arid the idle discharge ports to the valve is papfully established for one particular assembly, as shown in Figure 7. The valves are milled to give the proper port relation.

If new throttle shafts should be installed in an old, worn body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. A very slight change in the port relationship to the valves would adversely affect normal carburetor operation, between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour.

It is recommended that if the throttle shafts are excessively worn, that a new carburetor be installed.

If the throttle valves, however, have become nicked, burred or damaged, new valves may be installed, providing the following instructions are carefully followed:

• SECONDARY VALVE y (BRASS)

SECONDARY VENTURI

NOZZLE BLEEDER TUBE

PRIMARY VENTURI

M A I N BLEED TUBE

NOZZLE BLEEDER TUBE

IDLE TUBE

D O N O T REMOVE TUBES FROM VENTURI

6 3 x 5 0 4 A

Fig.

6 —Removing Secondary Venturi

PRIMARY VALVE „

O A A A

(ALUMINUM) W X V 4 6 A

Fig.

8 —Throttle Valve Identification

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AFB CARBURETOR 14-29

NOTE: The screws that attach the throttle valves are staked on the opposite side and care should be used in removal so as not to break the screws in the throttle shaft. Remove the staked portion of the screws with a file.

Remove the screws that attach the primary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve (or valves) out of the bores.

Remove the screws that attach the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve (or valves) out of the bores.

The primary valves and secondary valves are not interchangeable and should be kept separate in order that each may be returned to its respective bore.

(See Fig. 8.)

The tapered portion must be smooth and straight.

If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

NOTE: Do not use a screw driver.

The adjustment should be made with the fingers.

Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws lightly against their seats and back off one full turn for an approximate adjustment.

(4) Place the new secondary venturi gaskets in position (bleed hole in top, toward the center of the carburetor), install the secondary venturi (pump and choke side) by lowering straight down on the gaskets.

Install the attaching screws and tighten securely.

NOTE: Be sure all the metering holes and vent tubes are clean, in both the primary and secondary venturi.

3 . C L E A N I N G THE CARBURETOR PARTS

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol. There are other commercial solvents, however, which may be used with satisfactory results.

The choke diaphragm can be damaged by solvents.

Avoid placing the diaphragm assembly in any liquid.

Clean the external surfaces with a clean cloth or soft wire brush. Shake dirt or other foreign material from the stem side of the diaphragm. Depressing the diaphragm stem to the retracted position, will provide an additional hole for the removal of dirt. Compressed air can be used to remove loose dirt, but should not be connected to the vacuum inlet fitting.

(5) Place new primary venturi gaskets in position, then install the primary venturi (pump and choke side) by lowering straight down on the gaskets. (See Fig.

5.) Install attaching screws and tighten securely.

(6) Install the primary and secondary main metering jets, using Tool T109-58. (See Fig. 4.) Tighten jets securely.

(7) Install the accelerator pump intake check ball assembly in position in the carburetor bowl. Tighten securely, using Tool T109-59.

IMPORTANT: If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of a water rinse, it should be "HOT/' After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains.

Never clean jets with a wire, drill, or other mechanical means, because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.

3 . INSPECTION A N D REASSEMBLY

Main and Throttle Body Casting

(1) Slide the primary throttle valve (or valves) into their respective bores, install new screws, but do not tighten. Be sure the idle speed adjusting screw is backed out. Hold the valves in place with fingers

(fingers pressing on the high side of the valves).

(2) Tap the valves lightly with a screw driver to seat in the bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely. Stake screws by squeezing with pliers.

(3) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body portion of the casting.

Accelerator Pump Test

(1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl

(approximately V% inch deep). Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Flex the leather several times, then slide it on the pump cylinder.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle in the discharge passage. Raise the pump plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passages. Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check needle firmly on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward.

No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage.

(3) If fuel does emit from the intake passage, disassemble the intake check ball and reclean the passage. Fuel leakage at the discharge check needle indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check needle. Clean again and then install a new check needle. Retest for leakage.

(4) If either the intake check ball or discharge check needle leaks after above test and service fix, attempt to reseat as follows:

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14-30 AFB CARBURETOR

Intake Cheek Ball

Remove the accelerator pump check ball assembly and install a new check ball assembly.

Discharge Cheek Needle

(1) With the discharge check needle installed, insert a piece of drill rod down on the needle. lightly tap the drill rod with a hammer to form a new seat.

Remove and discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described previously. If the service fix does not correct the condition, a new carburetor must be installed.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle, jet housing and gasket. Install housing and attaching screws. Tighten screws securely.

(3) Press down on the accelerator pump plunger shaft and as the plunger is being depressed, a clear straight stream should emit from each jet. If the streams are identical (if either one is diverted or restricted) a new accelerator pump jet housing should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove pump plunger.

Fig.

9 —Measuring the Float Alignment

NOTE: Be sure the marked the pump side of the air horn.

float is installed on

(6) After the floats have been installed, test the float alignment, level and drop settings as follows:

Air Horn Assembly

(1) Slide the fuel inlet screen into the fuel line fitting, then install fitting in air horn. Tighten securely.

(2) Inspect to see if the leather on the accelerator pump plunger is hard, cracked or worn. If any sign of wear or deterioration is evident, install a new plunger assembly.

(3) When reassembling, make sure the large diameter of the pivot screw enters the hole in the pump arm and that the shoulder of the screw has not pinched the pump arm.

(4) Place a new air horn to main body gasket in position on the air horn and install the float needle valve seats. (Be sure each needle seat and needle is reinstalled in its original position.)

The carburetors are equipped with synthetic rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle. The rubber tip is flexible enough to make a good seal on the needle seat, and to give increased resistance to flooding.

NOTE: The use of the rubber-tipped needles require that care be used when making float adjustments.

Avoid applying any pressure on the floats which might compress the tip of the fuel inlet needles.

The rubber t i p can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

(5) Slide the right and left floats into position in the air horn and install the float fulcrum pins.

Float Alignment Setting

(1) Sight down the side of each float shell to determine if the side of the float is parallel to the outer edge of the air horn casting, as shown in Figure 9.

(2) If the sides of the float are not in alignment with the edge of casting, bend the float lever by applying pressure to the end of the float shell with the fingers while supporting the float lever with the thumb.

NOTE: To avoid damage to the float, apply only enough pressure to bend the float lever.

(3) The arms of the float lever should be parallel to the inner surfaces of the lugs or the casting.

Float Level Setting

(1) With the air horn inverted, the air horn gasket

GASKET IN PLACE FLOAT

Fig. 10—Measuring the Float Height

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AFB CARBURETOR 14-31

Fig. 12—Step-up Piston, Rod and Jet

Fig. 11—Measuring the Float Drop in place and the float needle seated, slide the float gauge Tool T109-106 (%

") between the top of the float (at outer end) and the air horn gasket, as shown in Figure 10.

(2) Measure the other float in the same manner.

If an adjustment is necessary, bend the float arm using Tool T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained. After bending arm, recheck the float alignment.

Float D r o p Smiting

(1) Holding the air horn in an upright position, measure the distance from the top of the floats (outer end) to the air horn gasket, as shown in Figure 11.

This measurement should be % inch. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the stop tabs on the float levers until the correct drop setting has been obtained. Bend the tab towards the needle seat to lessen the drop, or away from the seat to increase the drop.

(2) After the floats have been inspected and adjusted, continue to assemble the carburetor as follows:

(3) Place the accelerator pump plunger lower spring in the pump cylinder, then lower the air horn carefully down on the main body.

CAUTION: Be sure the fuel baffles on the air horn, slide down in front (bowl side) of the float chamber baffles, or the air horn will not index correctly with the main body and can cause the floats to hang up. Be sure the leather on the plunger does not curl or wrinkle. Accelerator pump operation will be affected if this precaution is not observed.

(4) Install the (10) air horn attaching screws and tighten securely. (The two long screws should be installed in the holes that are located at the air cleaner mounting surface. The 1 inch screw at the front and the IV2 inch at the rear.)

The change from the low speed, best fuel economy, road load mixtures to the richer wide open throttle pull mixtures is accomplished in two steps. This has made it possible to secure best low speed fuel economy without sacrificing performance in the intermediate speed range. To do this, there is a new step-up piston and spring assembly, new metering rods with three diameters, and new style primary metering jets, as shown in Figure 12.

(5) Slide the step-up piston springs into the piston cylinders, followed by the step-up pistons and step-up rods. Install the cover plates and attaching screws while holding the step-up pistons down in position.

Tighten screws securely.

(6) Slide the choke piston into its cylinder in the air horn, guiding the link into the slot in the choke valve lever. Align hole, then install attaching cotter pin. Place a new welch plug over the cylinder opening and secure by rapping with a hammer. (Be sure the sealing surface is clean.) Check the fit of the choke valve in air horn. The valve should be evenly spaced on all sides. Loosen screws and reposition, if necessary.

(7) Engage the throttle connector rod with- the primary throttle shaft lever and install hairpin clip.

Install the other end of the connector rod in the pump arm and secure with clevis clip.

(8) Engage the lower end of the fast idle connector rod with the fast idle cam, then swing in an arc to lock in cam. Slide other end of rod into the choke shaft lever and secure with hairpin clip.

Installing the Vacuum Diaphragm

(1) Install the vacuum diaphragm assembly on the main body and tighten the attaching screws securely.

(2) Install the choke operating link in position between the diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke lever. Install the clip to secure.

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14-32 AFB CARBURETOR

(3) Inspect the vacuum diaphragm fitting and remove any dirt or foreign material which could clog the passage. Inspect the rubber hose for cracks, before placing it on the correct throttle body fitting. (Refer to Fig. 1.)

* v

Do not connect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm fitting until after the vacuum Mck adjustment has been made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)

G A U G E O R DRILL

LIGHT C L O S I N G

PRESSURE AGAINST VALVE

C H O K E

OPERATING LINK

4 . CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

The adjustments are made with the carburetor on the bench for ease of working, and should be made in the following order:

Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position

Adjustment

The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be made on the engine, as described in the Fast Idle

Speed Adjustment (On the engine) paragraph of this group, however, the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be made on the bench.

(1) Open the throttle valves far enough to allow the fast idle speed adjusting screw to clear the fast idle cam.

(2) Insert a %

inch drill or gauge between the choke valve and the air horn wall, as shown in Figure

13.

(3) Close the throttle valves until the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacts the fast idle cam.

(4) Adjust the fast idle connector rod, using Tool

T109-213 by bending at the angle until the fast idle speed adjusting screw lightly contacts the middle step on the fast idle cam, but slides onto the bottom step of the cam. The fast idle speed adjusting screw must

DRILL OR G A U G E —

LIGHT C L O S I N G PRESSURE

AGAINST CHOKE VALVE

BEND FAST IDLE CONNECTOR ROD

AT THIS A N G L E

FAST

IDLE ADJUSTING

SCREW O N

LOWEST STEP O F

C A M AND RIDING

AGAINST SHOULDER

O F MIDDLE STEP

CAM

SCREW

Fig.

13 — Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment

64x346

DIAPHRAGM

STEM

VACUUM

CHOKE

TUBE FITTING

Fig.

touch

14 —Measuring the Choke Vacuum Kick Setting on the cam.

MINIMUM

10 INCHES

O F VACUUM

O N DIAPHRAGM

REQUIRED

64x348

(This special procedure is required because the fast idle speed cam is spring loaded to follow the choke valve.)

Vacuum Kick Adjustment

or ride against the shoulder of the

or Off the vehicle.)

—

middle step

(This test can be made

(1) With the engine Not running, open the throttle valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be moved to the closed position.

(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and connect the hose from the vacuum supply, as shown in Figure 14. (A minimum of 10 inches of mercury (HG) will be required.)

(3) Insert a Vs inch drill or gauge between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn. (Refer to

Fig. 14.) Apply a slight closing pressure to the choke shaft to hold the drill or gauge in position.

(4) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.

The adjustment of this opening will require the removal of the choke operating link.

CAUTION: DAMAGE TO THE DIAPHRAGM AND

THE CHOICE LEVER SLOT CAN RESULT, IF THE

LINK IS NOT REMOVED FOR THE BENDING OP-

ERATION.

(5) Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the choke lever, then disengage the link from the diaphragm stem. (The best bending

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AFB CARBURETOR 14-33

64x349

Fig. 15 — Choke Operating Link Measurement results will be obtained by using a vise arid a pair of pliers.) . . «.

(6) Bend the choke operating link to provide the correct choke valve opening.

CAUTION: A correction in the length of the link of .015 inch, will result in a change of .010 inch in the choke valve opening.

As an example, if the choke valve opening is .010 inch in error, the correction in the link length would be .015.

A 2" micrometer will be helpful in establishing the original length of the link, as shown in Figure 15, before completing the adjustment.

(7) Install the choke operating link and retest the choke valve opening, using a drill or gauge. (Refer to Fig. 14.)

Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and make the following test:

(8) With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm, some clearance should exist between the choke operating link and the choke lever slot, in both the open and closed choke valve positions, as shown in Figure 16.

Fig. 17 — Testing Choke Unloader (Wide Open Kick)

NOTE: This clearance is necessary to allow the choke valve to close for starting as well as fully open after the engine reaches the normal operating temperature.

If a clearance does not exist in both of tliese positions^-av-gej&st of the operating link adjustment should be made."

NOTE: Free movement of the choke valve between the closed and open positions is very necessary.

C h o i c e Unloader Adjustment

(1) With the throttle valves in the wide open position, it should be possible to insert Tool T109-80

(% inch) gauge between the upper edge of the choke valve and the inner wall of the air horn, as shown in

Figure 17.

(2) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the unloader lip on the throttle shaft lever, using Tool

T109-41, until correct opening has been obtained.

Fig. 16—Choke Operating Link Clearances

Accelerator Pump Adjustment

(1) Move the choke valve to wide open position, to release the fast idle cam. Back off the idle speed adjusting screw, (curb idle) until the throttle valves are seated in the bores.

(2) Measure the distance from the top of the air horn to the top of the plunger shaft, using a "T" scale as shown in Figure 18. This distance should be

%e inch.

(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the throttle connector rod at the lower angle, using Tool T-109-

213, until correct travel has been obtained.

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14-34 AFB CARBURETOR

ACCELERATOR PUMP

PLUNGER STEM

BEND ROD AT THIS ANGLE SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVES

SHOULD JUST START T O OPEN

CURB IDLE

SPEED SCREW

6ACKED O F F

THROTTLE

FULLY

CLOSED

BEND THROTTLE

CONNECTOR ROD

AT THIS ANGLE 64x353

F j g

. i & — T e s t i n g the Accelerator Pump Adjustment ly

^ N O T C H O F

LOCK-OUT

D O G

TANG O N

SECONDARY

THROTTLE LEVER

PRIMARY

THROTTLE

VALVES

CHOKE VALVE

WIDE OPEN

SLOWLY OPEN

THROTTLE VALVES 64x355

Fig. 1 9 — T e s t i n g the Secondary Throttle Adjustment

S e c o n d a r y Throttle Lever Adjustment

(1) To measure the secondary throttle lever adjustment, block the choke valve in the wide open position and invert the carburetor.

(2) Slowly open the primary throttle valves until it is possible to measure

inch between the lower edge of the primary valve and the bore (opposite idle port) as;shown in Figure 19. At this measurement, the secondary valves should just start to open.

(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the secondary throttle operating rod at the angle, using

Tool T109-213, until correct adjustment has been obtained.

(4) With the primary and secondary throttle valves in the tightly closed position, it should be possible to insert Tool T109-29 {.020 inch) wire gauge, between the positive closing shoes on the secondary throttle levers, as shown in Figure 20.

(5) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the shoe on the secondary throttle lever, using Tool T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained. lodged by the free flow of fuel, as the carburetor is primed.

Idle Speed Adjustment (Curb I d l e l

To make the idle speed adjustment, the engine must be thoroughly warmed up. A much more reliable idle adjustment can usually be obtained if the car has been driven a minimum of five miles. For the best results, it is recommended that a tachometer be uped in this adjustment. (Before making the idle speed adjustment, observe the following precautions:)

On cars equipped with the automatic transmission loosen the nut in the sliding link of the carburetor to bellcrank rod so that the stop in the transmission will not interfere with the free movement of the carburetor throttle lever.

(1) To make the idle speed adjustment, turn the idle speed screw in or out to obtain 500 rpm. (On cars with air conditioning, set the idle speed at 500

SECONDARY

S H O E -

Secondary Throttle Lock-out Adjustment

(1) Open the throttle valves slightly, then manually open and close the choke valve. The tang on the secondary throttle lever should freely engage in the notch of the lock-out dog. (Refer to Fig. 19.)

(2) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the secondary throttle lever, until engagement has been made. Use Tool T109-22 for this operation.

(3) After adjustments have been made, reinstall carburetor on engine, using a new gasket.

(4) It is suggested that the carburetor bowl be filled with clean gasoline. This will help prevent dirt that is trapped in the fuel system from being dis-

WIRE G A U G E

PRIMARY SHOE

(BEND TO ADJUST)

64x356 f

Fig. 2 0 — M e a s u r i n g C l e a r a n c e Between Closing

Shoes

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AFB CARBURETOR 14-35

Fig.

21 —Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the Engine! Fig.

22— Closed Crankcase Vent System rpm.) Be sure the choke valve is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam.

(2) Turn each idle mixture screw to obtain the highest rpm. While making the adjustment, carefully watch the tachometer and notice that the speed can be decreased by turning the screws in either direction from the setting that gave the highest rpm. reading.

(3) Readjust to 500 rpm. with the idle speed screw.

(Air conditioning ON).

(4) Turn each idle mixture adjusting screw in the clockwise direction (leaner) until there is a slight drop in rpm. Turn each screw out, counter-clockwise

(richer) just enough to regain the lost rpm.

This procedure will assure that the idle has been set to the leanest possible mixture for smooth idle.

This setting is very Important.

NOTE; Since the correct speed was originally set using the speed screw, the speed obtained after finding the leanest smooth idle setting will probably be too fast.

(5) Readjust the speed screw to obtain correct idle speed. Repeat steps

Engine)

(2)

2 and 4 above if necessary.

After the proper idle speed has been obtained, move the sliding link to the rear, against the stop, and tighten the nut securely.

Fctsf idle Speed Adjustment ( O n f f i e

To set the fast idle speed on the engine, connect a tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed and proceed as follows:

(1) With the engine running and the transmission in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.

Close the choke valve about 20 degrees, then allow the throttle to close. Return the choke valve to the wide open position.

(3) The fast idle speed adjusting screw should be contacting the lowest step on the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 21.

(4) With the engine warmed-up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle speed adjusting screw in or out to secure 700 rpm. Reposition the cam and throttle after every fast idle speed screw adjustment.

5 .

A U T O M A T I C C H O K E { W e l l T y p e )

To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than the occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no servicing. It is very important, however, that the choke control unit moves freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft. Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. If unit binds, a new unit should be installed. The Well Type Choke Control

Unit is serviced only as a complete unit. Do not attempt to repair.

Do not lubricate any parts of the choke or control unit since this causes dirt accumulation which would result in binding of the choke mechanism.

Do not attempt to change the calibration setting.

(Refer to specifications.) This is pre-determined and should it be changed, improper action would result.

Clean all choke parts using a suitable solvent and then blow dry with compressed air. Examine all choke parts for wear or damage. Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new in order to insure proper choke operation.

When installing the well type choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the

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14-36 AFB CARBURETOR sides of the wall in the intake manifold. Any contact at this point will affect operation.

6. CLOSED C R A N K C A S E VENT SYSTEM

The closed crankcase ventilator valve is located in the crankcase vent tube cap and is connected to the carburetor throttle body via a rubber tube. (See Fig.

22.) The function of the valve is to regulate the flow of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase and return them to the intake manifold. From here they enter the combustion chamber and then exit via the exhaust system as completely burned exhaust products.

For servicing procedures of this system, refer to the "Engine section" Group 9.

7 . THROTTLE L I N K A G E

To adjust the throttle linkage, refer to Figure 23 for the complete instructions.

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1. ASSEMBLE TRANSMISSION CONTROL LINKAGE PARTS IN PLACE BUT DO

NOT ASSEMBLE TRANSMISSION ROD BALL SOCKET @ TO BALL END.

2. APPLY A THIN FILM OF MS 3701 LUBRICANT TO THE ACCELERATOR

SHAFT 0 WHERE IT TURNS IN THE BRACKET.

7. ASSEMBLE REMAINDER OF THE LINKAGE PARTS IN PLACE.

WITH THE CABLE CLAMP NUT

(J)

LOOSE, ADJUST THE

POSITION OF THE CABLE HOUSING FERRULE ® IN THE

CLAMP SO THAT ALL SLACK IS REMOVED FROM THE CABLE

WITH THE CARBURETOR AT CURB IDLE. TO REMOVE SLACK

FROM THE CABLE, MOVE THE FERRULE ® IN THE CLAMP

IN THE DIRECTION AWAY FROM THE CARBURETOR LEVER. 3. DISCONNECT CHOKE (?) AT CARBURETOR OR BLOCK CHOKE VALVE IN

FULL OPEN POSITION, OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO RELEASE FAST

IDLE CAM, THEN RETURN CARBURETOR TO CURB IDLE,

ADJUST THE LENGTH OF THE TRANSMISSION ROD BY MEANS OF THE

THREADED ADJUSTMENT @ AT THE UPPER END. THE BALL SOCKET

MUST LINE UP DIRECTLY WITH THE BALL END WITHOUT EXERTING ANY

8. BACK OFF FERRULE (J) 1/2" . THIS PROVIDES 1/2" FREE

PLAY BETWEEN THE REAR SURFACE OF THE ACCELERATOR

BRKT. AND THE FRONT EDGE OF ACCELERATOR SHAFT

FORWARD FORCE ON THE ROD. THE BALL SOCKET MUST BE AT THE SAME

HEIGHT AS THE BALL END WHEN CHECKING ROD LENGTH.

5. LENGTHEN ROD BY ONE TURN OF THE ADJUSTMENT. ®

9. ROUTE CABLE SO THAT IT DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE

TRANSMISSION ROD THROUGHOUT ITS FULL TRAVEL.

6. ASSEMBLE BALL SOCKET @ TO BALL END. WHEN THE CARBURETOR

THROTTLE IS OPENED, THE TRANSMISSION SHOULD BEGIN ITS TRAVEL

AT THE SAME TIME WITH NO VERTICAL MOVEMENT OF THE LEVER OR

VERTICAL MOVEMENT OF THE ROD IN THE LEVER.

Fig. 23 — Throttle Linkage Adjustments (Imperial)

64 x 422

7® o m z

4 * i

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14-38 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM

P A R T 4

FIRE POWER 3 9 0 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM

The Chrysler Fire Power 390 engine, as shown in

Figure 1, is equipped with twin air cleaners, twin

AFB carburetors, hand type chokes and two aluminum manifolds, containing eight sweeping passages (four in each manifold), all of which ekiploys a new method of fuel induction. : .

SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. INTAKE MANIFOLDS

Removal (Fig.

21

(1) Drain the cooling system.

(2) Remove the carburetor air cleaners.

(3) Disconnect the fuel line between the fuel pump and the left hand carburetor.

(4) Disconnect the fuel line between the left and right hand carburetor. Disconnect the choke control.

(5) Disconnect the vacuum line between the right hand carburetor and the distributor.

(6) Remove the high tension coil wire.

(7) Disconnect the throttle linkage at both carburetors and the bell crank, to the accelerator shaft.

(8) Loosen the clamps that attach the equalizer tube couplings to the manifolds, and to the equalizer tube.

Slide either coupling inward on the tube far enough to clear the manifold tube opening. Lift the equalizer tube, couplings and clamps up and away from engine.

(9) Disconnect the power steering hoses (if so equipped) at the pump and secure against the fire wall.

Fig. 1<—Fire Power Manifold

(10) Remove the air conditioning cqnipressor and brackets, (if so equipped). Refer to Air Conditioning

Section. vS

-?%

(11) Remove the eight attaching bolts that hold the left fender shield access plate to fender shield, then slide plate out of the engine compartment.

(12) Remove the two bolts that attach the left hand by-pass pipe to the lower chamber,

v ^ ^ ;

(13) Remove the two bolts that attach the left hand exhaust manifold elbow to the lower chamber. Discard the gaskets.

(14) Remove the four bolts that attach the intake manifold to the right bank cylinder head. Remove the exhaust passage crossover cover.

(15) Lift the intake manifold and carburetor from the engine as an assembly.

(16) Remove the nuts that attach the carburetor to the intake manifold. Remove the carburetor.

(17) Remove the eight attaching bolts that hold the right fender shield access plate to the fender shield, then slide plate out of engine compartment.

(18) Remove the two bolts that attach the right hand exhaust by-pass pipe to the lower chamber.

(19) Remove the two bolts that attach the right hand exhaust manifold elbow to the lower chamber.

Discard the gaskets.

(20) Remove the four bolts that attach the intake manifold to the left bank cylinder head. Remove the exhaust passage crossover cover.

(21) Lift the manifold and carburetor from the engine as an assembly.

(22) Remove the nuts that attach the carburetor to the intake manifold, then disconnect the automatic choke rod from the lever. Remove the carburetor.

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FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM 14-39

Installation

When installing the intake manifolds be sure and use new gaskets and be sure all mating surfaces are smooth and clean.

To install the left hand intake manifold, refer to

Figure 2, then proceed as follows:

(1) Place the carburetor in position on the mounting pad of the intake manifold and engage the choke control. Install the carburetor mounting nuts and tighten.

(2) Place the intake manifold assembly in position on the right hand bank cylinder head. Place the exhaust crossover passage cover over the passage, then install the manifold attaching bolts finger tight.

(3) Slide a new gasket between the left hand exhaust manifold elbow and the lower chamber of the intake manifold. Install attaching bolts finger tight.

(4) Slide a new gasket between the left hand exhaust by-pass pipe and the manifold lower chamber.

Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 10 footpounds. Tighten the elbow attaching bolts to 10 foot-pounds and the intake manifolds bolts to 50 footpounds.

(5) Slide the left hand fender shield access plate into position against fender shield. Install bolts and tighten.

If both intake manifolds were removed, continue to install the right hand manifold as follows:

(6) Place the carburetor in position on the mounting pad of the intake manifold and connect the choke control. Install the carburetor mounting nuts and tighten.

(7) Place the intake manifold assembly in position on the left hand bank cylinder head. Place the exhaust crossover passage cover over the passage, then install the manifold attaching bolts finger tight.

(8) Slide a new gasket between the right hand exhaust manifold elbow and the lower chamber of the intake manifold. Install attaching bolts finger tight.

(9) Slide a new gasket between the right hand exhaust by-pass pipe and the lower chamber. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 10 foot-pounds. Tighten the elbow attaching bolts to 10 foot-pounds and the intake manifold bolts to 50 foot-pounds.

(10) Slide the right hand fender shield access plate into position against fender shield. Install bolts and tighten.

CLAMP W I N G NUT

AIR CLEANER STUD

CARBURETOR

ASSEMBLY

INTAKE MANIFOLD-RIGHT

INTAKE MANIFOLD-LEFT

GASKET REINFORCEMENT

EXHAUST CROSSOVER

COVER

GASKET

GASKET SEALER AS REQUIRED

HEAT INLET ELBOW

Fig.

2 —Fire Power Manifold (Disassembled)

- G A S K E T

60x166

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14-40 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM

(11) Place the air conditioning compressor arid far enough to firmly engage the manifold. Tighten brackets in position (if so equipped) and install attachclamps securely. ing bolts. Tighten securely. (Refer to the Air Condi-

(14) Reconnect the throttle linkage at both carbutioning Group 24 for method of recharging the system.) retor and bell-crank to accelerator shaft.

(15) Reinstall the high tension coil wire.

(12) Reconnect the Power Steering hoses to the pump (if so equipped). (Refer to Power Steering Group

(16) Reconnect the vacuum line between the car-

19 for method of bleeding air out of the system.) buretor and distributor.

(13) Slide the equalizer tube, clamps and couplings over the manifold tubes. Slide either coupling outward

(17) Reconnect the fuel line between the left and right hand carburetors.

CHOKE CABLE

- RIGHT BANK CARBURETOR ROD

/ADJUSTING LINK

IT) LOCKING BOLT AND NUT

.ACCELERATOR SHAFT TO THROTTLE SHAFT LEVER ROD

(t) LOCKING BOLT

^ AND NUT

ADJUSTING LINK

LEFT BANK

CARBURETOR ROD

SPRING (2)

/ADJUSTING LINK

TOP VIEW

/ L O C K I N G NUT ( ? ) f

ACCELERATOR SHAFT AND BRACKET

/BELLCRANK T O TRANSMISSION ROD

- TRANSMISSION THROTTLE CONTROL LEVER

-KICK D O W N POSITION

• WIDE O P E N THROTTLE POSITION

- 5 1 ° 15'

IDLE POSITION n LOCKING NUT

ACCELERATOR PEDAL TO SHAFT ROD

INSTRUMENT PANEL

ACCELERATOR SHAFT T O THROTTLE

SHAFT LEVER ROD

ACCELERATOR SHAFT T O BELLCRANK ROD

(T) LOCKING NUT

ADJUSTING LINK

ACCELERATOR SHAFT BRACKET

ACCELERATOR PEDAL T O SHAFT ROD

ACCELERATOR PEDAL

INSTRUMENT

PANEL

SIDE VIEW

63x569

Fig.

3—Throttle Linkage (Schematic)

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FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM 14-41

(18) Reconnect the fuel line between the fuel pump and the left hand carburetor.

(19) Reinstall the right and left carburetor air cleaners.

(20) Refill the cooling system to required capacity.

(Refer to specifications.)

After the intake manifolds have been installed it is very important that the next procedure of setting the throttle linkage be done in order to obtain peak engine performance.

Setting the Bellcrank

(1) Loosen locking nuts "C" and "D" (left and right bank carburetor rods).

(2) Pivot the ballcrank until a %

inch piece of welding rod 3 inches long can be inserted through the bellcrank hole and down into the locating hole in the intake manifold.

(3) Test each carburetor to be sure the choke valves are open; that the fast idle cams are released and that the throttle valves are closed.

(4) Tighten locking nuts "C" and "D" securely.

Remove pin from bellcrank.

(5) Push rearward on the accelerator shaft to throttle shaft lever rod adjusting link, until stop is obtained. Tighten locking nut securely.

2 . SETTING THE THROTTLE L I N K A G E

As mentioned previously, setting the throttle linkage is a very important step. Various conditions affecting car performance can be encountered, such as loss of performance, no wide open throttle response, delayed shifting of the transmission, no kickdown, delayed up shifts and etc.

Setting the throttle linkage is divided into three parts, namely: Positioning the accelerator shaft, positioning the accelerator pedal, setting the bellcrank and synchronizing each carburetor. It is very important that the throttle linkage be set in this order.

Positioning the Accelerator Shaft

To position the accelerator shaft, (if equipped with automatic transmission) refer to Figure 3 then proceed as follows:

(1) Loosen the adjusting nuts "A" and "B" (accelerator shaft to transmission rod and accelerator shaft to throttle shaft lever rod).

(2) Insert a piece of %

inch welding rod, 10 inches long into the accelerator shaft bracket and through hole in lever.

(3) Now move the transmission throttle lever forward until it stops. Tighten the locknut "A" securely.

This positions the accelerator shaft.

Positioning the Accelerator Pedal

(1) Unsnap the accelerator pedal from shaft rod.

(2) Turn the threaded end of rod either in or out until a measurement of 114 degrees is obtained between the floor of car and the flat face of the accelerator pedal.

(3) This measurement can be made with a spirit protractor.

(4) After correct measurement has been obtained, reconnect rod. Remove pin from accelerator shaft bracket.

Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment

Connect a tachometer and warm-up the engine to normal operating temperature. Be sure the choke is fully off and that the engine is at curb idle, (transmission in Neutral). Proceed as follows:

(1) Turn the idle mixture screws from 1 to 2 turns open.

(2) Set the idle bypass air screws 2 turns open and adjust the idle speed to 700 rpm. or if equipped with air conditioning, 500 rpm. with the compressor ON.

The idle bypass air screw is located at the front of each carburetor body flange, between the two idle mixture screws. Adjust the idle mixture screws on each carburetor for maximum rpm. Repeat on each carburetor.

Before attaching the rod at each carburetor, check the transmission to throttle linkage adjustments, so that the idle position is not disturbed.

NOTE: Accurate carburetor synchronization or balance is exteremely important and when performed should be rechecked and rebalanced in the outside ambient temperature after a five mile or more road test. This readjustment will prevent rough engine idle performance and possible engine stalling when the vehicle is returned to the owner.

Fast Idle Adjustment (On Vehicle)

When making fast idle adjustment on the vehicle, each AFB carburetor should be adjusted individually.

(1) The engine should be at normal operating temperature and have a curb idle speed of 700 rpm. or if equipped with air conditioning, 500 rpm. with the compressor ON.

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14-42 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM

CHOKE VALVE

FUEL INLET FITTING \ %

CHOKE CABLE fc I 1

}

M 1 J - .«

CLAMP

IDLE MIXTURE

ADJUSTING SCREWS

CARBURETOR

IDENTIFICATION

STAMPED O N BOSS

IDLE BY-PASS

ADJUSTING SCREW

M A I N A N D

THROTTLE BODY

STEP-UP PISTON

COVER PLATE ( 2 )

CHOKE LEVER

CHOKE CABLE

BRACKET

SECONDARY THROTTLE

OPERATING LEVER

STEP-UP PISTON

COVER PLATE ( 2 )

AIR HORN

FAST IDLE ROD

FAST IDLE C A M

ELEVATING LEGS (SET OF 4 )

THROTTLE LEVER

ACCELERATOR PUMP

CONNECTOR LINK

ACCELERATOR

PUMP SHAFT

ACCELERATOR

PUMP A R M

ACCELERATOR PUMP

CONNECTOR ROD

V A C U U M A D V A N C E

FITTING OPENING

PRIMARY THROTTLE

SHAFT A R M (OUTER)

Fig.

4— Carburetor Assembly (AFB-3505S)

CARBURETOR IDENTIFICATION

STAMPED O N BOSS

63x607

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FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM 14-43

(2) Turn air conditioning compressor "OFF" (if so equipped) before proceeding with following adjustments.

(3) Remove each air cleaner.

(4) Disconnect each throttle rod at the belcrank on the intake manifold.

(5) Open the throttle valves of the left carburetor far enough to allow positioning of the fast idle cam to the fast idle index mark. The right carburetor should remain at the curb idle position.

(6) Adjust fast idle screw until a fast idle speed of 1400 rpm. is obtained.

(7) After the desired engine speed has been obtained, open the throttle slightly to allow the fast idle cam to return to the open choke (or off fast idle) position.

(8) Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 in setting right carburetor fast idle speed as it is very important at the completion of this step (8), that each carburetor has identical fast idle speeds.

There is no specification for engine rpm. with both carburetors simultaneously set at the fast idle position.

(9) Connect both carburetor throttle rods to the bejl crank.

Carburetor Air Cleaner'—Do Not Wash or Oil

Every 5,000 miles, remove filter element and blow out dirt gently with air hose. Direct air from inside out, and keep nozzle 1 inch away from element to avoid damaging. Clean the metal housing and replace the element. Every 15,000 miles, install a new factory recommended filter element. Service the unit more frequently when driving under severe conditions, such as in dusty areas.

Twin 4-barrel A F B series 3505S carburetors are used on the Chrysler 300K (Fig. 4). These carburetors are basically the same as previous AFB carburetors.

The service procedures for disassembly, cleaning, inspection, reassembly and adjustments are different and will be covered in detail.

The carburetor is equipped with a pair of velocity valves, which are controlled by the secondary valve operation. The throttle valves in the secondary half of the carburetor are mechanically connected to the primary valves and open with the primary after an approximate 60 degree lag; and continue to open until both primary and secondary throttle valves reach the wide open position at the same time. As engine speed increases, the forces exerted by the velocity of intake air down through the venturi, permits the off set velocity valves to position themselves according to engine requirements.

The four conventional systems used in this carburetor are two float systems, two low speed systems

(primary side only), two high speed systems and the accelerator pump system. ,

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation., However, proper cleaning and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance.

When overhauling the AFB carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job; namely, the carburetor should be carefully disassembled. All parts thoroughly cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for damage or wear. Only air pressure should be used to clear the various orifices and channels. Questionable parts should be replaced with new ones. (When inspecting parts removed from the carburetor, it is at times rather difficult to determine if they are satisfactory for further service. It is recommended, therefore, that in such case, that NEW parts be installed.)

3 . CARBURETOR

Disassembly

(1) Place the carburetor on repair stand C-3400 or elevating legs (4) T109-287S. (These tools are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)

(2) Remove the clip that holds the accelerator pump rod in the center hole in the pump arm, and the hairpin clip that holds the rod in the throttle lever. Remove the rod.

(3) Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the fast idle connector rod to the choke lever. Disengage rod from lever, then swing rod at an arc until it can be disengaged from the fast idle cam.

Fig. 5— 'Removing the Step Up Pistons

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14-44 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM

(4) Remove the step-up piston cover plate screws and plates. (Hold a finger over plate when removing screws to prevent the piston and metering rods from flying out.) Remove the step-up pistons and metering rods, as shown in Figure 5. Remove the step-up piston springs.

(5) Remove the choke cable bracket, then remove the ten air horn attaching screws (1 screw recessed).

Then lift the air horn straight up and away from main body. Be careful not to bend or damage the floats.

Remove the pump plunger spring from the pump well.

Disassembling the Air Horn

Place the air horn in an inverted position on the bench (mainly to protect the floats), then disassemble as follows:

(f) Remove the float fulcrum pins, then remove each float.

(Before removing floats, it is suggested that "the float on the pump side be marked so that the floats can be installed in their original locations.)

(2) Remove the two needle valves, after marking the pump side for identification.

(3) Using a wide blade screwdriver, or Tool T109-

37, remove the needle valve seats. (Mark the side seat for identification.)

(4) Remove the pump arm pivot screw, then disengage the pump link, by removing pump arm. Slide pump plunger out of the air horn, then remove spring seat and compression spring from pump shaft. Discard the air horn to main body gasket.

Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

(5) Remove the fuel inlet fitting nut and gasket, then remove filter screen.

Disassembling the Main Body

(1) Remove the accelerator pump jet housing screws, then remove jet housing and gasket, as shown in Figure 6. Invert the carburetor and drop out the discharge check needle.

(2) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets from the primary and secondary side, as shown in Figure 7. These jets are not interchangeable. (No.

120-159 primary; and No. 120-158 secondary.)

(3) Remove the screws that attach the primary venturi to the main body. (These venturi are net interchangeable side for side, and it is suggested that the pump side venturi be marked for identification).

Remove the venturi, as shown in Figure 8. Discard the gaskets. (The pump side venturi is numbered 687.

The opposite one, numbered 686.)

(4) Remove the screws that attach the secondary

63x610

Jet

Housing

Fig.

7 —Removing the Main Metering Jets

Fig.

8— Removing the Primary Venturi

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FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM 14-45

Fig.

9 —Removing the Secondary Venturi

Fig. 11—Removing the Pump Inlet Check Ball Cage venturi to the main body. (These venturi are not i n t e r c h a n g e a b l e s i d e f o r s i d e , and it i s suggested that t h e p u m p s i d e v e n t u r i be m a r k e d f o r identification.)

Remove the venturi, as shown in Figure 9. Discard the g|skets. (The pump side venturi is numbered 678.

The opposite one, numbered 679.)

(5) lift out the velocity valves and counterweights, as shown in Figure 10.

(6) Using Tool T109-58, remove the accelerator pump inlet check ball and cage, as shown in Figure 11.

(7) Remove the idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body casting.

The carburetor now has been disassembled into two units, namely the air horn and the main throttle body casting. The component parts of each unit have been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

Cleaning the Carburetor Parts natured alcohol, which is easily obtainable. However, there are other commercial solvents (such as Metalclene) which may be used with satisfactory results.

I M P O R T A N T : If t h e c o m m e r c i a l solvent or c l e a n e r r e c o m m e n d s t h e u s e of w a t e r a s a r i n s e , it s h o u l d be "HOT".

A f t e r r i n s i n g , a l l t r a c e of w a t e r m u s t be b l o w n f r o m t h e v a r i o u s p a s s a g e s w i t h a i r p r e s s u r e . It is f u r t h e r a d v i s a b l e to r i n s e a l l parts i n c l e a n k e r o s e n e o r g a s o l i n e to b e c e r t a i n n o t r a c e of m o i s t u r e r e m a i n s . N e v e r c l e a n j e t s w i t h a w i r e , d r i l l o r o t h e r m e c h a n i c a l m e a n s , b e c a u s e t h e orifices m a y b e c o m e e n l a r g e d , m a k i n g t h e m i x t u r e too r i c h f o r p r o p e r p e r f o r m a n c e .

Inspection and Reassembly

Throttle Body

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves unless the wear or damage is sufficient to affect idle or operation of the carburetor. If

PRIMARY

, D L E

™ * y

S F E R

SPARK ADVANCE

Fig**-10;—Removing the Velocity Valves

63x614

Fig. 12—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

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T4-46 FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM such is the case, install a new main and throttle body assembly. However, damaged valves can be replaced providing the instructions for installation are followed closely.

During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control ports to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly (See Fig. 12). Changing the port relationship would affect vehicle operation between the speeds of

15 and 30 miles per hour. If it is necessary to install new valves, proceed as follows:

(1) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valve

(or valves) to be replaced to the throttle shaft, then slide valve (or valves) out of the bore.

CAUTION: These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used so as not to break off in the shaft. Remove staking with a file.

(2) Slide the new valve (or valves) down into the bore and through the slot in the shaft. Install new screws but do not tighten.

(3) Hold the valves in place with the fingers pressing on the high side of valves. Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores.

(4) Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

(5) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. The tapered portion of the screws must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, new idle mixture screws should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control. DO NOT USE A SCREW

DRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers. Turn the screws lightly against their seats then back off one full turn for approximate setting.

(6) Install the velocity valves and counterweights

(Refer to Fig. 10).

Fig. 13 — Installing the Pump Discharge Check Needle

SHOULD EMIT

I FROM INLET PASSAGE j 63x618

Fig. 14 — Testing the Accelerator Pump Check Ball and Discharge Needle

(7) Place new secondary venturi gaskets in position, then install the secondary venturi. (Refer to Fig. 9.)

Install screws and tighten securely. Be sure each is located in its original place.

Be sure all the metering holes and vent tubes are clean and clear in both the primary and secondary venturi.

(8) Place new primary venturi gaskets in position, then install the primary venturi. (Refer to Fig. 8.)

Install screws and tighten securely. Be sure each is located in its original place.

(9) Install the primary and secondary main metering jets in the main body. Tighten securely, using

Tool T109-58. (Refer to Fig. 7.) Tighten securely.

A c c e l e r a t o r Pump Test

(1) Pour clean gasoline into the float bowl (pump side) approximately

inch deep. Remove the pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and flex the leather several times, then slide down into the pump well.

(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check needle in the discharge passage, as shown in Figure

13. Raise the pump plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passage.

(3) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check needle firmly down on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from the discharge or the intake sage, as shown in Figure 14.

If fuel does emit from the intake passage, remove the intake check ball and cage and reclean. Fuel leakage at the discharge check needle indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check needle. Clean again and install a new needle. Retest as described above.

If either the intake check ball or discharge check

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FUEL AND INDUCTION SYSTEM 14-47 needle leaks after the above test, attempt to reseat needle or install a new check ball.

Discharge Check Needle

(1) With the discharge check needle installed, insert a piece of drill rod down on the needle. Lightly tap with a hammer on the end of the drill rod. This will form a new seat for the needle.

(2) Remove and discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described above.

(3) If the service fix does not correct the condition, a new carburetor will have to be installe