Chrysler Le Baron 1965 Workshop Manual

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AC-i
CHRYSLH
Fig.
mmoRi
965 Imperial
CONVEX
and Chrysler
Models
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INTRODUCTION A N D GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
3
DEALER—FACTORY CONTACT
The following outline of the proper procedure to use in obtaining assistance or advice on any matter applying to Service will insure your inquiries receiving prompt attention and handling. Make certain those members of your organization who might have the occasion to contact either your Regional
Office or the factory, are thoroughly familiar with this procedure.
All matters pertaining in any way to Warranty Service Claims, or of a technical nature, should be
handled by you direct with your Regional Service Office. When in doubt as to the proper procedure to
follow in the handling of a claim or complaint, prompt results can be obtained through a letter, telegram
or phone call to your Regional Service Office—making certain to include all necessary information.
If the aid of a Service Representative is necessary, the Regional Office will arrange for his contact as promptly as circumstances permit.
Letters or telegrams to the Regional Service Office, should be confined to one subject only and should
include the following information:
Car Serial Number
Date of Sale
Owner's Name
Mileage
Complete description of difficulty, corrective action taken, your recommendations as to what should
be done and the reason for so doing.
Include Paint and Trim Code Numbers where finish, upholstery, body or sheet metal is involved, and
estimate of net cost of repairs.
CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH DIVISION
With the exception of orders for parts or parts literature, all requests for Imperial, Chrysler, Plymouth Service literature such as Service Bulletins, Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, Time Schedules, W.S.C.'s or other Chrysler—Plymouth Division Service literature, should be addressed to:
(Letters)
Chrysler Corporation
Chrysler—Plymouth Division
Service Department
P. 0. Box 1658
Detroit, Michigan 48231
(Telegrams)
Chrysler—Plymouth Division
Attention
(Name of person to whom sent)
WUX
Detroit, Michigan
Phone 822-4700 (Area Code 313)
NOTE: Pleas© make certain to Include the Code WUX on all telegrams to the Chrysler-Plymouth Division as this insures delivery direct to our Teleprint Room thus eliminating delay.
MASTER TECHNICIANS SERVICE CONFERENCE
All correspondence concerning enrollment in the M.T.S.C. Program, issuance of awards, orders for
additional material, the return of reports, or any other matters relating to this program, should be addressed to:
Master Technician Service Conference
Chrysler Corporation Training Center
P.O. Box 2119
Detroit, Michigan 48231
Phone 539-3000—Area Code 313
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INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
PARTS DIVISION
General
ALL orders for parts or accessories, emergency or otherwise, should be forwarded direct to your
source of supply or to the parts plant listed below serving the area in which you are located.
To insure your receiving the parts required by you more promptly, close attention should be
given to the procedure listed under "Ordering Information" and "Your Parts Orders" in the introductory front part of all MoPar Parts Lists and Price Lists. Particularly where parts are ordered
for a specific car, it is very essential that your order include the car serial and engine numbers, and
in the case of body parts, the body number.
CENTER LINE, MICHIGAN
SAN LEANDRO, CALIFORNIA
Chrysler Motors Corporation
P.O. Box 300
Center Line, Michigan 48015
Telephone—Detroit
539-3000
Area Code—313
Chrysler Motors Corporation
1955 Davis Street
P.O. Box 5
San Leandro, California 94577
Telephone—San Leandro, Neptune 8-6200
Area Code—415
NEWARK, DELAWARE
KANSAS CITY, KANSAS
Chrysler Motors Corporation
South College Avenue
P.O. Box 120
Newark, Delaware 19711
Telephone—Newark, Endicott 8-2521
Area Code—302
Chrysler Motors Corporation
Funston & Chrysler Roads
P.O. Box 2188
Kansas City, Kansas 66110
Telephone—Kansas City, Kansas—Fairfax 1-3300
Area Code—913
ATLANTA, GEORGIA
CEDAR GROVE, ESSEX COUNTY, N E W JERSEY
Chrysler Motors Corporation
1150 Murphy Avenue, S.W.
P.O. Box 10957
Atlanta, Georgia 30310
Telephone—Atlanta, Plaza 5-2531
Area Code—404
Cedar Grove Parts Depot
20 Sand Park Drive
Cedar Grove, Essex County, N . J .
Telephone—
Cedar Grove, 239-8100
Area Code—201
Parts Division Literature
Request for Parts Division literature such as Parts Books, Parts Price Lists, Parts Bulletins, etc.,
should be forwarded direct to: Chrysler Motors Corporation P.O. Box 1718 Detroit 31, Michigan, Attention: Parts Catalog Department.
Shortage of Accessories or Other Equipment on N e w Cars
Before placing an order for missing accessories, other parts or equipment, on new cars received,
examine the vehicle for the presence of a "back order" notice, which if present, will be found attached
to the bracket for the inside rear view mirror. Such back-ordered short items will be shipped from
the assembly plant as soon as stock is available, and should not be ordered from the Parts Division.
Emergency O r d e r s — C a r Down or Truck Down
1.
When parts are not immediately available from your local MoPar source of supply. TELEPHONE,
TELEGRAPH or AIR MAIL your order to:
a. PARTS PLANT SERVING YOUR AREA for all parts coded "V", "F", "M", " N " and "P". Use
Parts Order Form No. 81-670-0139.
b. FACTORY PARTS PLANT AT CENTER LINE for all parts coded "D" . . . and orders for "D"
parts combined with "V", "F", "M", " N " and "P" parts required for an individual service job.
Use Parts Order Form No. 81-670-0190 (Supersedes D-16712).
c. Quantities ordered should not exceed actual requirements for vehicle out of service. Always
supply car, vehicle serial number and Truck Parts Availability Number (1960-62 Models) in addition to Vehicle Number.
2.
3.
4.
Identify orders as "Emergency Car Down."
List part numbers in numerical sequence. Use your dealer code number on all orders. Assign
only one order number to the order regardless of size.
"V", "F", "M", " N " and "P" parts will be shipped transportation charges collect. "D" parts will be
shipped transportation prepaid when "Normal Prepaid Transportation" is specified; shipped collect when "Premium Transportation" is specified.
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INTRODUCTION A N D GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
5
I f 6 5 MODELS
Chrysler Newport
Chrysler 300
Chrysler New Yorker
A C-1
Chrysler 300-L
Imperial Crown
Imperial LeBaron
AC-2
AC-3
AC-2-300L
AY-2
AY-3
VEHICLE AND ENGINE NUMBERS
VEHICLE NUMBER—The vehicle number (Serial
Number) is located on a metal plate attached to the
left front door body hinge pillar, as shown in Figure
2.
ft
All vehicle numbers contain ten digits. The vehicle
number is a code which tells the make of vehicle (1st
digit), model of vehicle (2nd digit), year built (3rd
digit), assembly plant (4th digit), and vehicle sequence
number (last six digits) starting with 100001.
ENGINE NUMBER—The engine number is
stamped on the boss on the top side of the cylinder
block just back of the water pump, as shown in Figure 3.
1st Letter
Make of Vehicle
C . Chrysler
e ix 22.4"
Fig. 2—Vehicle
2nd Digit
Model of Vehicle
3rd Digit
Year Built
1. Newport
5. Newport-Station W a g o n
2. 300
7. New Yorker-Station W a g o n
3. New Yorker
9. Police
5
Number
4th Digit
Assembly Plant
(1965)
3-Detroit
6-Delaware
4. 300L
2. Crown
Y. Imperial
3. LeBaron
BODY PLATE NUMBER LOCATION
The body number is stamped on a plate which is
attached on the engine side of the cowl just above
the master cylinder on Imperial Models, Fig. 4. On
Chrysler Models the plate is located above the top
hinge of the drivers side door. The plate shows the
5
(1965)
3-Detroit
body type, trim code, schedule date, trim code and
the paint code.
INCLUDES SOME SPECIAL AND
STANDARD EQUIPMENT TO AGREE
WITH CAR ORDERED
i
1
V/
-i
SSI
/
BODY
INCLUDES DATE AND
MONTH OF YEAR AND CODE
NUMBER
ORDER NUMBER
Fig. 3—Engine
Number
Fig. 4—Body
/
TRIM
CODE
NUMBER
PAINT
CODE
NUMBER
NK1175
Number
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6
INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Body Styles
4 Dr. S e d a n , 4 Dr. Hard Top
2 Dr. Hard Top, Convertible
Starting
Serial No.
Chrysler
AC-l
C153100001
Newport
Chrysler
AC-2
AC-2 300L
Chrysler
AC-3
Imperial
AY-1
4 Dr. Hard Top, 2 Dr. Hard Top
C253100001
4 Dr. S e d a n , 4 Dr. Hard Top
C353100001
2 Dr. Hard Top, Convertible
C453100001
Station W a g o n
C553100001
Station W a g o n
C753100001
Police C a r
C953100001
4 Dr. Hard Top, Convertible
Y253100001
Crown
4 Dr. Hard Top
Y353100001
Le Baron
Wheelbase
300
New Yorker
300L
Newport
New Yorker
Newport
All Models Except Sta. W g n .
124.0"
Station W a g o n
121.0"
124.0"
124.0"
121.0"
129"
62"
62"
61.8"
61.7"
Tread (Front)
A l l Models
62"
Tread (Rear)
All Models
60.7"
60.7"
60.7"
Length with
All Models Except Sta. W g n .
218.2"
218.2"
218.2"
Station W a g o n
219.0"
Bumper
219.0"
Width with
Bumper
All Models
79.5"
80.0"
79.5"
79.5"
3.23"
3.23"
All Models
3.23"
3.23"
All Models
2.76"
3.23"
2.76"
2.93"
All Models Except Sta. W g n .
8.25 x 14
8.55x14
8.55x14
9.15 x 15
Station W a g o n
8.55x14
Rear Axle with
3- Speed or
.
4- Speed Manual
Transmission
Rear Axle with
TorqueFlite
Transmission
Tire Size
C-300L
9.00x14
8.55x14
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GROUP 0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART
NORMAL
Engine O i l Filter—Replace
lottery—Check
SERVICE
with n e w f i l t e r .
l e v e l a n d specific
E n g i n e C o o l a n t — C h e c k level and / o r anti-freeze.
gravity.
DCL
P o w e r S t e e r i n g R e s e r v o i r — C h e c k l e v e l . I f fluid
is c o l d , l e v e l should b e a t b a s e o f filler n e c k , if
hot, l e v e l should b e h a l f w a y up filler neck.
PSF
Engine
Oil
Dipstick—When
refueling,
D i s t r i b u t o r C a m a n d R u b b i n g B l o c k — A p p l y to
EO
check
C u p a n d C a m Wick
Carburetor Air Cleaner—Clean
O i l F i l t e r P i p e B r e a t h e r C a p # — W a s h in k e r o s e n e
Engine Oil—Drain
below:
Carburetor
cc
a n d l u b r i c a t e with S A E 3 0 e n g i n e o i l .
EO
block.
Distributor
Oil
Rotor block.
or r e p l a c e .
C h o k e Shaft a n d
Linkage—Apply
solvent to c h o k e s h a f t e n d s through a i r horn.
a n d refill. S e e viscosity c h a r t
M a n i f o l d H e a t C o n t r o l V a l v e — T r e a t s h a f t with
solvent.
Multi-Grades
S A E 2 0 W - 4 0 Where
temperatures
above 32°F.
C r a n k c a s e V e n t i l a t i o n S y s t e m — T e s t system a n d
are
consistently
service, a s required.
AA
Automatic
Transmission—Check
S A E 1 0 W - 3 0 S u i t a b l e f o r y e a r long o p e r a t i o n in m a n y
parts of the U . S . ; m a y b e used where
t e m p e r a t u r e s o c c a s i o n a l l y d r o p a s low
as—10°F.
A M G Front Brake A s s e m b l i e s a n d Wheel
SAE 5W-20
R e c o m m e n d e d w h e r e minimum t e m p e r a tures consistently a r e b e l o w
10°F.
AA
SAE 30
Where
S A E 10W
Where
engine
Engine
Single G r a d e s
above
temperatures
consistently
UJ
range
with
warm.
Bearings
maintain
except
AC-3)—Inspect
s e a l s f o r l e a k a g e . Inspect joint p a r t s f o r w e a r .
U n i v e r s a l J o i n t s ( A l l M o d e l s ) — I n s p e c t s e a l s for
UJ
l e a k a g e . Inspect joint p a r t s f o r w e a r .
c a n t , if n e c e s s a r y .
Rear Axle
a n d S u r e - G r i p — C h e c k level.
Main-
t a i n l e v e l to filler h o l e .
MML
Column-Mounted
shift
Manual Transmission Gear-
Controls
MML
Column-Mounted
Automatic
or
Controls—If
is d a m a g e d ,
boot
Body
Mechanism—See
Section
Transmission
replace
and
HTF
BraW
Master
Cylinder—Check
level.
Fill
if
necessary.
MML
F r o n t S u s p e n s i o n B a l l J o i n t s — I n s p e c t s e a l s for
d a m a g e . R e p l a c e if n e c e s s a r y .
MML
Steering L i n k a g e B a l l J o i n t s — I n s p e c t seals for
d a m a g e , r e p l a c e if d a m a g e d o r w o r n .
MML
or
Clutch Torque
AMG
Body
Maintenance
Deck Lid H i n g e s
Door Hinges
Door Striker Plates
D o o r Striker Rotor
Fuel T a n k Filler D o o r
Hood Hinges
T a i l g a t e Torsion B a r a n d C h e c k A r m G u i d e
Throttle L i n k a g e
A M G relubrlcate mechanism.
Plate
TIRE P R E S S U R E S (PSI) ( C O L D )
Shaft.
Drive
Lugs,
Size
MML
Clutch
or
Release Bearing
Fork Fingers a n d Pivot.
Front
Rear
24
22
8.25x14
AC-l
Sleeve,
8.55x14
A C - 1 (With Air
Conditioning) A C - 2 , A C - 3
24
24
C
8.55x14
A C - l Station W a g o n s
22
26*
9.00x14
A C - 3 Station W a g o n s
AMG
EO
level
a n d thoroughly
Tune-Up
Universal Joints (All
between
+ 3 2 ° F . and — 10°F.
EO
in neutral
A M G (EP) U n i v e r s a l J o i n t ( A C - 3 ) — I n s p e c t seals for
l e a k a g e . Inspect joint p a r t s f o r w e a r .
are
32°F.
temperatures
idling
M a n u a l T r a n s m i s s i o n — C h e c k level,
to filler h o l e .
M a n u a l S t e e r i n g G e a r — C h e c k l e v e l . A d d lubri-
HL
or
MP
under
C a r b u r e t o r F u e l F i l t e r — R e p l a c e with n e w filter.
e n g i n e oil l e v e l .
EO
cam a n d rubbing
Floor Mounted M a n u a l Transmission G e a r s h a f t M e c h a n i s m — L u b r i c a t e mechanism from
u n d e r c a r with light e n g i n e o i l .
increase
rear
tire p r e s s u r e 6
22
26*
p s i on
loaded
Station W a g o n s .
Floor Mounted M a n u a l T r a n s m i s s i o n Controls
— L u b r i c a t e with S A E 3 0 a f t e r removing console
KEY
top trim p a n e l .
AA
# S e e C r a n k c a s e Ventilation S y s t e m S e r v i c i n g .
TO LUBRICANTS
Automatic Transmission
F l u i d , A Q - A T F , Suffix " A "
A M G Automotive
A M G (EP) A u t o m o t i v e
CAPACITIES
Engine O i l
.....
4 qts.
16 q t s .
H
Position for lift adapter
4 pts.
A
Prepacked bearing
Transmission
TorqueFlite
19.5 pts.
Manual
3- Speed . . .
5 pts.
4- Speed
7 . 5 pts.
Fuel T a n k — e x c e p t Station W a g o n s . . . . 2 5 g a l s .
—Station W a g o n s
2 2 gals.
©
Cooling system drain
( A d d 1 q t . for h e a t e r )
Rear Axle.
( S e e Fuel Section, for p r o p e r c a p a p p l i c a t i o n
a n d Fuel Tank venting.)
1843314
Grease
Multi-Purpose
G r e a s e E.P. N L G I — G r a d e 2
( A d d 1 qt. w h e n r e p l a c i n g filter)
Cooling System
Multi-Purpose
CC
Carburetor
DCL
C a m Lubricant
EO
Engine Oil
HTF
Cleaner
1473595
High Temperature
Brake
2421352
Fluid
CHRYSLER
NK572
Fig. 1—Lubrication Chart
(AC-l, AC-2, AC-3 Models)
1879414
HL
Hypoid
ML
Lubriplate
1064768
MML
Multi-Mileage Lubricant
2525035
MP
Lubricant
Multi-Purpose
Gear
Lubricant
2084329
PSF
P o w e r Steering Fluid
S
M a n i f o l d Heat Control
SL
S t a i n l e s s Stick L u b r i c a n t
UJ
Universal Joint G r e a s e
Valve
1879318
Solvent
1064769
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0-2
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
—
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART
NORMAL
SERVICE
E n g i n e O i l F i l l e r — R e p l a c e with n e w filter.
E n g i n e C o o l a n t — C h e c k level a n d / o r anti-freeze.
B a t t e r y — C h e c k level a n d specific gravity.
PSF
DCL
P o w e r S t e e r i n g R e s e r v o i r — C h e c k l e v e l . If fluid
is c o l d , l e v e l should b e a t b a s e o f filler n e c k , if
hot, l e v e l should b e h a l f w a y u p filler n e c k .
D i s t r i b u t o r C a m a n d R u b b i n g B l o c k — A p p l y to
c a m a n d r u b b i n g block.
Distributor
O i l C u p a n d C a m Wick
under
Rotor block.
Engine Oil Dipstick—When
e n g i n e oil l e v e l .
refueling,
check
C a r b u r e t o r F u e l F i l t e r — R e p l a c e with n e w filter.
C a r b u r e t o r A i r C l e a n e r — Clean or replace.
O i l F i l t e r P i p e B r e a t h e r C a p # — W a s h in k e r o s e n e
EO
Carburetor
a n d l u b r i c a t e with SAE 3 0 e n g i n e o i l .
C h o k e Shaft a n d L i n k a g e — A p p l y
solvent to c h o k e shaft e n d s through a i r horn.
E n g i n e O i l — D r a i n a n d refill. S e e viscosity c h a r t
EO
M a n i f o l d H e a t C o n t r o l V a l v e — T r e a t shaft with
below:
solvent.
Multi-Grades
C r a n k c a s e V e n t i l a t i o n S y s t e m — T e s t system a n d
service, a s required.
S A E 20W-40 Where
temperatures
a b o v e 32°F.
are
Automatic
T r a n s m i s s i o n — C h e c k level
with
e n g i n e idling in n e u t r a l a n d t h o r o u g h l y w a r m .
consistently
S A E 1 0 W - 3 0 S u i t a b l e f o r y e a r long o p e r a t i o n in m a n y
parts o f the U.S.; m a y b e used w h e r e
temperatures occasionally drop a s low
as — 1 0 ° F .
SAE 5W-20
Engine Tune-Up
A M G Front Brake A s s e m b l i e s a n d Wheel
R e c o m m e n d e d w h e r e minimum t e m p e r a tures consistently a r e b e l o w + 1 0 ° F .
Body
Mechanism—See
Section
Single G r a d e s
SAE 30
Where
temperatures
consistently
Where
temperatures
+ 3 2 ° F . and — 10°F.
range
between
MML C o l u m n - M o u n t e d Automatic T r a n s m i s s i o n
or
C o n t r o l s — I f boot is d a m a g e d , r e p l a c e a n d
A M G relubricate mechanism.
Cylinder—Check
level.
Maintenance
D e c k Lid H i n g e s
Door Hinges
Door Striker Plates
D o o r S t r i k e r Rotor
F u e l T a n k Filler D o o r
Hood Hinges
are
a b o v e 32°F.
SAE 10W
Body
Bearings
T a i l g a t e Torsion B a r a n d C h e c k A r m G u i d e P l a t e
Throttle L i n k a g e
HTF
Brake Master
necessary.
Fill
MML
Front S u s p e n s i o n Ball J o i n t s — I n s p e c t seals for
F l u i d , A Q - A T F , Suffix " A "
d a m a g e . R e p l a c e if n e c e s s a r y . - I n s p e c t f o r
Automotive
KEY
TO LUBRICANTS
Automatic Transmission
lubricant
MML
(EP) A u t o m o t i v e
Carburetor Cleaner
C a m Lubricant
A M G (EP) U n i v e r s a l Joint —Inspect seals for
l e a k a g e . Inspect joint p a r t s f o r w e a r .
1473595
Engine Oil
High Temperature
HL
or
MP
Multi-Purpose
Grease E.P. N L G I — G r a d e 2
Steering L i n k a g e B a l l J o i n t s — I n s p e c t seals for
d a m a g e , r e p l a c e if d a m a g e d o r w o r n .
A M G (EP) Universal Joint
leakage.
1843314
Multi-Purpose Grease
Spline—Inspect for
Brake
Fluid
Hypoid
R e a r A x l e a n d S u r e - G r i p — C h e c k level. Main
tain l e v e l to filler h o l e .
2421352
1879414
Lubricant
Lubriplate
1064768
Multi-Mileage Lubricant
2525035
Multi-Purpose
Gear
Lubricant
Manifold Heat Control
TIRE P R E S S U R E S
Size
9.15x15
9.15x15
2084329
P o w e r Steering Fluid
# S e e C r a n k c a s e Ventilation System Servicing.
Valve
Solvent
1879318
SfarnJess Stick L u b r i c a n t
1064769
(PSI) ( C O L D )
CAPACITIES
All S e d a n s
Convertibles
Front
22
24
Rear
22
24
A
Prepacked bearing
#
Cooling system drain
Engine O i l .
5 qts.
( A d d 1 q t . w h e n r e p l a c i n g filter)
IMPERIAL
C o o l i n g S y s t e m (Including h e a t e r )
Rear A x l e .
NK573
Transmission
TorqueFlite
Fuel T a n k
Fig. 2—Lubrication Chart
(AY-1 Models)
1 7 qts.
4 pts.
. 1 9 . 5 pts.
2 3 gals.
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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
LUBRICATION AND
0-3
MAINTENANCE
CONTENTS
Page
Page
CERTIFIED CAR CARE
SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE SERVICES
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
CHART (AC1, A C 2 , AC3 MODELS)
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
CHART (AY-1 MODELS)
HOISTING
CLASSIFICATION OF LUBRICANTS
CHASSIS LUBRICATION
CLUTCH AND GEARSHIFT LINKAGES
TRANSMISSION—MANUAL
TRAILER T O W I N G SERVICE
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS .
REAR AXLE
TRAILER TOWING SERVICE
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
TIRES
COOLING SYSTEM
ENGINE OIL—SELECTION OF
FREQUENCY OF OIL CHANGES
ENGINE OIL FILTER
CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER
CARBURETOR CHOKE SHAFT AND LINKAGE
3
FUEL FILTER
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL V A L V E
16
16
5
DISTRIBUTOR
ALTERNATOR
BATTERY
TRANSMISSION—AUTOMATIC
STEERING GEAR
BRAKES
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM
PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
16
17
17
17
18
18
18
19
HEADLAMPS
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES
PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION
SPEEDOMETER
HOOD LOCK
BODY MAINTENANCE
HOOD HINGES
DOOR HINGES
DOOR STRIKER ROTOR
DOOR STRIKER PLATES
DECK LID HINGES
TAILGATE TORSION BAR AND CHECK ARM
GUIDE PLATE
FUEL TANK ACCESS DOOR HINGE
THROTTLE LINKAGE
19
19
19
19
20
20
20
21
22
22
23
2
1
6
6
6
7
8
9
9
10
11
11
11
12
12
12
13
13
15
16
SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND
Maintenance and lubrication service recommendations for the 1965 Chrysler Corporation-built vehicles have been compiled to, provide maximum protection for the car owner's investment against all reasonable types of driving conditions.
Since these conditions vary with the individual car
owner's driving habits, the area in which the car is
operated and the type of service to which the car is
subjected, it is necessary to prescribe lubrication and
maintenance service on a time frequency as well as
mileage interval basis.
23
23
23
MAINTENANCE
To assure the car owner the benefits to which he is
entitled, the mileage intervals and time frequencies
at which the various lubrication and maintenance services should be performed are clearly defined and
carefully outlined in Certified Car Care Maintenance
Services.
Information concerning the types of lubricants
specified, the quantities required and the location of
the various points of application are shown in Lubrication and Maintenance Charts (Figs. 1 and 2). Lubrication and servicing intervals are on page 5.
MyMopar.com
LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE
Fig. 3 — S u p p o r t Locations
Fig. 4—Support
Locations
for Frame
Contact
for Frame Contact
Moisting
Hoisting
(AC-l,
AC-2, AC-3
Locations
(AY-1
Models!
Models!
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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-5
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SERVICES
SERVICE
INTERVAL
ITEM
PAGE
Replace
Check
Fluid
Level
SERVICE
Inspect
and/or
Clean
Lubricate
Service
3 Months, or 4,000
Miles, Whichever
Engine Crankcase Oil
12
X
Engine Oil Filter
13
X
Comes First
Every Second
Oil Change
C a r b . Air Cleaners—Paper & Oil
15
X
Crankcase Ventilating System
13
X
Carburetor Choke Shaft
16
Pipe
13
Oil Filler
Air Cleaner
Manifold Heat Control Valve
6-Month
Service
X
X
16
17
X
Rear Axle
10
X
18
X
Suspension Ball Joints
X
6
X
6
X
Universal Joints
9
X
Propeller Shaft Spline (Imperial)
9
X
Brake Master Cylinder
18
X
Brake Hoses
18
X
Body Mechanisms
20
X
10,000 Miles
Engine Performance Evaluation
23
Fuel Filter
16
20,000 Miles
Brakes a n d Brake Linings
18
X
Front Wheel Bearings
11
X
Carburetor Air Filter
15
Every 2 Years
Every Oil Change
Every
Year
32,000 Miles
Crankcase Ventilating System
(Fully Closed Type)
Carburetor Air Filter
(Non-Silenced Type)
X
X
X
X
13
14
X
X
Distributor
Linkage
X
16
Transmission
Gear
X
X
X
Front Suspension Ball Joints
6
X
Steering Tie Rod Ends
6
X
Clutch Torque Shaft
7
X
Spark Plugs—See
Engine Performance Evaluation
23
Speedometer C a b l e
19
X
Clutch Drive Lugs, Release
Bearing Sleeve, and Fork
When Necessary
Fingers a n d Pivot
X
7
Column-Mounted Gearshift Linkage
Floor-Mounted Gearshift Lever
X
7
X
Wheel Brakes
18
X
Parking Brakes
18
X
When Servicing Air
Air Conditioning Compressor
Conditioning System
Crankcase Oil Level
Points That Should Not Be Lubricated
X
19
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0-6
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
HOISTING
Special care should be taken when raising the vehicle on a frame contact type hoist. The hoist must be
equipped with the proper adapters in order that the
vehicle will be supported in the correct locations (Figs.
3 and 4).
Conventional hydraulic hoists may be used after determining that the adapter plates will make firm contact with the lower control arms and the rear axle
housing.
A regular floor jack may be used under the rear axle
housing, or under the front suspension lower control
arms, however, a floor jack must never be used on any
parts of the underbody.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to raise one entire side
of the vehicle by placing a jack midway between
front and rear wheels. This practice may result in
permanent damage to the body.
The bumpers are designed to accept a bumper jack
in an emergency, if it becomes necessary to change a
tire on the road. Notches are provided in the bumpers for the purpose of raising the vehicle with the
bumper jack.
CLASSIFICATION-OF LUBRICANTS
Oils and lubricants are classified and graded according to standards recommended by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the American Petroleum
Institute (API) and the National Lubricating Grease
Institute (NLGI).
Engine
Oil
The SAE grade number indicates the viscosity of
engine oils, for example SAE 30, which is a single
grade oil. Engine oils are also identified by a dual number, for example SAE 10W-30, which indicates a multigrade oil.
The API designation indicates the classification of
engine oils for use under certain operating conditions. Only engine oils designated "For Service MS"
should be used. These oils contain sufficient chemical additives to provide maximum engine protection.
Both the SAE grade and the API designation must be
found on the container.
Gear
Information pertaining to the lubrication and maintenance points is shown on Lubrication and Maintenance Charts (Figs. 1 and 2).
CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Fmnf Suspension Ball Joints
The front suspension ball joints (Fig. 5) are semipermanently lubricated with special lubricant at the
factory. They should be inspected, as outlined in the
Car Care Schedule, for damage to the seals which may
result in loss of lubricant. Clean accumulated dirt and
lubricant from the outside surface of the seals to permit thorough inspection. Damaged seals should be
replaced immediately to prevent contamination of the
lubricant or damage to the parts. Lubricate ball joints,
if necessary.
When lubricating ball joints, use Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035. Remove the threaded
plug from each ball joint and temporarily install lubrication fittings. Avoid the use of high pressure equipment to prevent damaging or rupturing the seals.
Stop filling the ball joints when the lubricant begins
to flow freely from the bleed areas at the base of the
seal, or if the seal begins to balloon. Remove the fittings and reinstall the threaded plugs.
Steering
Linkage
Ball
Joints
The four tie rod end ball joints and the steering
gear arm ball joint (Fig. 6) are semi-permanently
lubricated with a special lubricant at the factory.
They should be inspected and lubricated in accordance with the Certified Car Care Schedule.
When inspecting ball joints, clean accumulated dirt
and lubricant from the outside surfaces of the seals to
Lubricants
The SAE grade number also indicates the viscosity
of Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricants, defined by MIL-L2105B. An example is SAE 75, which is a light viscosity
lubricant.
Lubricants—Greases
Semi-solid grease lubricants, such as specified for
propeller shaft universal joints, bear the NLGI designation. They are further classified as grades "0" or
at) >j
Fig. 5—Upper
Points
and Lower
Ball Joint
(AC-7, AC-2, AC-3, AY-1
Lubrication
Models)
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LUBRICATION A N D M A I N T E N A N C E
0-7
Jill
to
5
NK665
fig. 6 — S t e e r i n g Linkage
(AC-1,
AC-2,
AC-3,
Lubrication
AY-1
Points
Models)
permit thorough inspection. Damaged seals or joints
should be replaced immediately to prevent contamination of the lubricant or failure of the part.
When lubrication is required, use Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035. Remove the threaded
plug from each ball joint and temporarily install a
lubrication fitting. Avoid the use of high pressure
equipment to prevent damaging or rupturing the seals.
Inject lubricant until it flows freely from the seal
bleed area at the base of the seal. Stop when the seal
begins to balloon. Remove the fittings and reinstall
the threaded plugs.
CLUTCH A N D GEARSHIFT LINKAGES
(Manual Transmission)
Clutch
Torque Shaft
Bearings
To lubricate the two torque shaft bearings (Fig. 7)
disassemble, clean and inspect the linkage. Replace
damaged parts. When reassembling, coat the bearings
with Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035,
or Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI Grade 2.
Clutch Drive lugs, Release
Fork fingers and Pivot
Bearing
Sleeve,
When disassembling the clutch torque shaft to lu-
NK561
Fig. 8—Column-Mounted
Gearshift
Transmission
Points
bricate the torque shaft bearings, lubricate the clutch
drive lugs (Fig. 7) release bearing sleeve and fork
fingers and pivots. Fill cavity in sleeve and coat lugs,
fingers and pivots with Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part
Number 2525035, of Automotive Multi-Purpose
Grease, NLGI grade 2.
To gain access to these areas, remove the clutch
inspection plate at bottom of the clutch housing and
the fork boot and fork.
CAUTION: Care Must Be Taken To Avoid Getting
Lubricant On Clutch The Disc And Pressure Plate.
Co/umn-Mounfed Manual
Gearshift
Transmission
Controls
Apply a film of Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part No.
2525035 or Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI
grade 2, to the contact surfaces (Fig. 8).
Column-Mounted Automatic
Controls
FILL CAVITY
Manual
Control—Lubrication
Transmission
ACT, A C 2 - A C - 3 Models
The control mechanism (Fig. 9) is located at the
lower end of the steering column in the engine compartment. It is sealed inside a rubber boot which
should be inspected for condition and position.
A Y - J Models
INNER MATING SURFACE
Fig. 7 — C l u t c h Torque
Lubrication
64x172 A
Shaft
and
Points
Linkage—
On these models, the control mechanism is located on the dash panel in the passenger compartment.
If the boot is damaged, it should be replaced and
the mechanism lubricated by applying a film of MultiMileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, or Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI Grade 2 (Fig. 9).
MyMopar.com
0-8
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
NK562
NK560
Fig, 9 — C o l u m n - M o u n t e d Automatic
Control—Lubrication
fig. f | — F l o o r - M o u n t e d Automatic
Controls—Lubrication
Transmission
AC-3
Points
Floor-Mounted Manual Transmission Gearshift
Mechanism
Lubricate the mechanism from under the car (Fig.
10) using SAE 30 engine oil applied with a pump
type oil can.
NOTE: Make sure the stone shield for the lower
shift housing is in place.
Mounted Automatic Transmission
Controls
Floor
Lubricate the controls (Fig. 11) using SAE 30 engine oil applied to the connections with a pump type
oil can. Access to the controls is by removing the console top trim panel.
Transmission
Points (AC-I,
AC-2,
Models)
TRANSMISSION
Manual-Three Speed-Standard
The fluid level in the transmission should be maintained to the bottom of the filler plug hole (Fig. 12).
When necessary to replenish, refill with Automatic
Transmission Fluid, AQ-ATF, Suffix "A," Part Number 1843314, for all ambient temperatures. In warm
weather, however, Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant SAE
90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B, may be used.
It is not necessary to change the lubricant when the
car is used in normal service. Where the car is used
for towing trailers or other than normal passenger
service, refer to the Certified Car Care Schedule for
recommended servicing.
H M
^ ^ H ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ f f ^ ^
^^^^^^^^ • ^i^^^B I WU^
/
DRAIN
PLUG
PLUG
NK563
Fig. 10—Floor-Mounted
Gearshift
Manual
Mechanism—Lubrication
Transmission
Points
NK564
Fig. 72—Transmission Filler and Drain
Plugs
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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-9
Four S p e e d
The transmission is filled at the factory with a
Special Gear Lubricant. If necessary to replenish the
fluid to restore the level to the bottom of the filler
plug hole (Fig. 12), use Multi-Purpose Gear Oil SAE
140, as defined by MIL-L-2105B.
During cold weather, if the shift effort becomes extremely high, the transmission should be drained (Fig.
12) and refilled with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant
SAE 80 or SAE 90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B or
with Automatic Transmission Fluid, AQ-ATF, Suffix
"A." Automatic Transmission Fluid may be replaced
with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant SAE 140 in warm
weather.
It is not necessary to change the lubricant when the
car is used in normal service. Where the car is used
for other than normal passenger service, refer to the
Certified Car Care Schedule for recommended servicing.
Trailer Towing
Service
Drive line components on passenger cars used to
pull trailers or engaged in similar heavy duty usage
will require more frequent inspection and service
than those used in normal passenger car service. Follow recommendations outlined in the Car Care Schedule.
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Universal joints should be inspected for external
leaks or damage, in accordance with the Certified Car
Care Schedule. The joints should not be disassembled
or relubricated unless external leaks or damage has
occurred.
When necessary to lubricate the joints, disassemble
T""
Fig. 14—Universal
Joint—Cross
and Roller
Type
completely, clean and inspect parts for serviceability.
Damaged parts should be replaced. Repack ball and
trunnion joints (Fig. 13) with two ounces of Universal Joint Grease, NLGI Grade 2. Bearings in cross and
roller joints, (Figs. 14 and 15), should be repacked with
Universal Joint Grease NLGI Grade "0."
Lubrication of the front universal joint sliding yoke
on models with automatic transmission is required
only when the propeller shaft is removed and disassembled for servicing, or if the car is operated under conditions listed as severe. In the latter event,
lubricate in accordance with the Certified Car Care
Schedule. Clean old lubricant from the splines and
spread a film of Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, evenly over the entire splined area. Do
not use in excess of one-half ounce of lubricant.
Carefully examine the rubber seal before reinstalling it in the housing extension. If not serviceable, re' place with a new one.
OUTPUT SHAFT
FRONT YOKE
INERTIA YOKE
EXTENSION HOUSING
mm
V: !r'''\»'
SHAFT
SEAL
KD5936
BUSHING
Fig. 15—Front
Fig.
1 3 — U n i v e r s a l Joint—Ball
and
V.wnion
Type
Universal
—Sliding
NK565
Joint—Cross and
Yoke
Roller
Type
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0-10
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
BEARING
ASSEMBLY
NK684
Fig. 16—Constant Velocity Universal
(AC-3
Models)
Constant
(AC-3,
Velocity Universal Joints
Models)
Under normal operating conditions, relubrication
of the constant velocity joints (Fig. 16) is not required. The seals should be inspected for external
leaks or damage at least twice a year, but the joints
should not be disassembled or relubricated unless
external leaks or damage has occurred.
When the car is operated under severe conditions
such as outlined below, the joints should be disassembled, cleaned and relubricated every 32,000 miles:
Police or taxicab use.
Frequent towing of trailers.
Continuous operation at higher than normal loading.
Very dirty or sandy operating conditions.
When lubricating the joints and centering pivots,
use Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI
grade 2. The spline should be lubricated with Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI grade 0. Approximately one ounce of lubricant is required.
Joint
its use is recommended.
Periodic changing of rear axle lubricant is not necessary for cars used in normal service, except when
the axle lubricant has been contaminated with water,
or to provide the correct viscosity grade for the anticipated range, as indicated by the accompanying table:
Viscosity G r a d e
Anticipated Temperature Range
SAE 90
Above
-10°F.
As low as
-30°F.
SAE 80
Below
-30°F.
SAE 75
If necessary to change the lubricant, remove the old
lubricant with a suction pump (Fig. 17).
REAR AXLE
Standard
and
Sure-Grip
When checking the lubricant level, the car should
be in a level position on a wheel or axle-type hoist.
The level should be between the bottom of the filler
plug hole to one-half inch below.
If necessary to add, use Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant, as defined by MIL-L-2105B. Hypoid Lubricant,
Part Number 1879414, meets this requirement and
Fig. 17—Removing
the
Lubricant
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LUBRICATION A N D M A I N T E N A N C E
Trailer
Tawing
0-11
Service
NOTE: Drive line components of passenger cars
used to pull trailers or engaged in similar heavy
duty usage will require more frequent inspection
and service than those used in normal passenger
car service. Follow recommendations outlined in the
Car Care Schedule.
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
When an inspection of the wheel bearings indicates
the lubricant is low in quantity, or contaminated with
dirt or water to produce a milky appearance, the bearings should be cleaned, inspected and relubricated i f
serviceable.
Fig.
1 9 — F r o n t Wheel
Bearing
Adjustment
foot-pounds. Install the wheel covers.
CAUTION: To avoid possible contamination of the
lubricant by mixing lubricants that are not compatible, do not add lubricant to the bearings.
Thoroughly clean the old lubricant from the bearings and hubs. Repack the bearings and hubs with
Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2.
When repacking hubs, make sure all surfaces of the
hub and outer grease cup interiors are covered with
grease (Fig. 18) to minimize condensation and grease
travel out of the bearing. Do Not overfill.
Adjust the bearings as follows:
(1) Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut (Fig.
19) to 90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel.
(2) Position the nut lock on the adjusting nut so
one pair of cotter pin slots align with the hole in the
spindle (Fig. 19).
(3) Back off the adjusting nut and nut lock to the
next slot and install the cotter pin.
(4) Install the wheels, tighten the wheel nuts to 65
Fig.
1 8 — F r o n t Wheel
Bearing
Lubrication
TIRES
Tires, including the spare, should be rotated according to the tire rotation diagram (Fig. 20) to provide uniform wear, long tire life, and to retain comfortable riding qualities.
Tires should be examined for unusual wear patterns,
foreign material and proper inflation pressures. Unusual wear conditions may reflect unusual driving habits
or indicate that mechanical corrections may be necessary.
Refer to the Lubrication and Maintenance Charts
(Figs. 1 and 2), for recommended inflation pressures.
LEFT FRONT
Fig. 20—Tire Rotation
RIGHT FRONT
Diagram
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0-12
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
C O O L I N G SYSTEM
Inspect the coolant level every two months. The
cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled
with the proper coolant once a year. When necessary
to remove accumulations of rust and other deposits,
maximum cleanliness can be restored by using a reliable cooling system cleaner, according to the directions on the container.
Drain the cooling system by removing both drain
plugs in the sides of the cylinder block and open the
drain cock in the lower radiator tank. Discard old solutions.
Refill the cooling system with water and protect
against corrosion by adding Cooling System Rust Resistor, Part Number 2421778, or refill with water and
Permanent Type Anti-Freeze, Part Number 1316209,
depending upon the season. All models are equipped
with 180 degree thermostats. With this thermostat,
only permanent type anti-freeze should be used. If an
alcohol-type anti-freeze is used, a 160 degree thermostat should be installed.
CAUTION: The 180 degree thermostat must be used
on cars equipped with air conditioning.
All cars equipped with air conditioning should have
the cooling system protected with permanent type
anti-freeze to a temperature of —15°F. to prevent
freezing in the heater core.
In the winter, the cooling system of all cars
equipped with air conditioning, should have sufficient anti-freeze to provide protection to the lowest
anticipated temperature range.
ENGINE OIL—SELECTION O F
For best performance, and to provide for maximum
protection of all engines for all types of operation, only those lubricants should be selected which:
(a) Conform to the requirements of the API classification "FOR SERVICE MS."
(b) Have the proper SAE grade number for the expected temperature range.
HK575
Fig.
21—Shaded
Minimum
Area
Temperatures
Reached
During
Covers Region
+ 70°F. are
of
Winter
Where
constantly
Months
Low viscosity oils make engine starting easier in
cold weather. Modern SAE 5W-20 grade oils have been
subjected to extensive engineering evaluation and
may be safely used as recommended. As stated in the
accompanying chart, when minimum temperatures are
expected to be consistently below +10°F., oils of the
SAE 5W-20 viscosity may be used.
In order to help determine whether your region
"consistently reaches minimum temperatures of
+ 10°F.," the accompanying weather map (Fig. 21) is
provided. If your region is in the shaded area, SAE
5W-20 oil should be used during the winter months.
Lubricants which do not have both an SAE grade
number and an MS Service classification on the container should not be used.
FREQUENCY OF OIL CHANGES
The engine oil should be changed every three (3)
months, or 4,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Severe
Operating
Conditions
SAE 20W-40
Where temperatures are consistently above
SAE 10W-30
Suitable for year long operation in many
Severe operating conditions, such as frequent driving on dusty roads, or in sandy geographic areas, or
unusually short trip driving in cold weather may reasonably require oil changes more frequently than every three months. Under these conditions, consult and
follow the advice of any Chrysler Motors Corporation
Authorized Dealer's Service Manager.
parts of the U.S.; may be used where
Taxi and Police Duty
temperatures occasionally drop a s low as
Severe service such as taxi and city police driving,
which are principally short trip operations including
frequent and prolonged idling, require more frequent
oil changes on a regular schedule. For this service, it
is recommended that engine oil be changed at least
every 2,000 miles, with filter changes at least every
2nd oil change. In addition, for this type of service,
the crankcase ventilation system should be serviced
at each oil change. A suggested practice
for taxi and
MyMopar.com
Oil Viscosity
Multi—Grades
Recommendations
32°F.
-10°F.
SAE 5W-20
Recommended where minimum temperatures are consistently below + 1 0 ° F .
Single
Grades
SAE 30
Where temperatures are consistently above
SAE 10W
Where
32°F.
temperatures
+ 3 2 ° F . and - 1 0 ° F .
range
between
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
0 13
police operations is to maintain spare valves, installing a clean valve at each oil change. Valves so removed can be cleaned by soaking overnight in carburetor cleaner, followed by drying with compressed
air.
During Break-In
Cars should be driven moderately during the first
300 miles. After the initial 50 miles, speeds up to
50 to 60 mph are desirable. While cruising, brief fullthrottle accelerations contribute to a good break-in.
Wide-open throttle accelerations in low gear can be
detrimental and should be avoided for at least 500
miles.
The oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high quality lubricant, classified "For Service MS,"
and should be retained until the first regularly scheduled three-month or 4,000 mile oil change, whichever
comes first. If it becomes necessary to add oil during
this initial period, an oil with the "For Service MS"
classification and of the proper viscosity grade should
VALVE ASSEMBLY
V-8
Fig. 2 3 — S t a n d a r d Crankcase
ENGINES
Ventilation
64 X 3 0 7 A
System
be used. Nondetergent or straight mineral oils must
never be used.
Frequently, a new engine will consume some oil
during its first few thousand miles of operation. This
should be considered as a normal part of the break-in
and not to be interpreted as an indication of difficulty.
ENGINE OIL FILTER
All engines are equipped with full-flow, throw-away
oil filters (Fig. 22) to provide efficient filtering of the
engine oil for maximum engine protection.
The filter should be replaced every second oil
change. Since filters vary widely in quality, when replacing the filter it is recommended that a Chrysler
Corporation Engine Oil Filter be installed to assure
most efficient service.
CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
Periodic service of the positive crankcase ventilation system (Fig. 23) is required to prevent malfunction of the system because of combustion products
deposited in the valve, hose and carburetor passages.
Standard
In.
Engines)
System
The ventilation system should be inspected and
serviced at least every six months and the ventilator
valve replaced every year, preferably to coincide with
the annual engine performance evaluation. The carburetor air cleaner element should be replaced every
two years.
This service will be required more frequently if the
vehicle is used extensively for short-trip driving less
than 10 miles with frequent idling, such as in city
traffic.
Service
Fig. 2 2 — E n g i n e Oil Filter (383 and 473 Cu.
Ventilation
Procedure
With the engine idling, remove the ventilator valve
and cap assembly from the rocker cover (Fig. 23). If
the valve is working freely, a hissing noise will usually
be heard as air passes through the valve, and a strong
vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over
the valve inlet.
If the valve is working properly, reinstall the ventilator valve and cap assembly and remove the oil filler
pipe breather cap. With the engine still idling, loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over the
oil filler pipe. After allowing a few seconds for crankcase pressure to reduce, the paper should be drawn
against the filler pipe with a noticeable force. If this
occurs, a final check should be made to be certain the
valve shuttle is free. Shut off the engine, remove the
MyMopar.com
0-14
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
valve and shake it vigorously. A clicking noise should
be heard if the valve is satisfactory and no further
service is necessary.
If the valve does not click when shaken, or the
paper is not drawn against the filler pipe with a noticeable force, replace the valve and recheck the system.
NOTE: Do not attempt to clean the valve. Replace
it with a new valve.
Use valves that have either the letter " H " stamped
on the end, a flat end, or a black end washer.
Remove the ventilator valve hose (Fig. 23), from
the valve cap, inspect it and clean, if necessary.
Remove the breather cap (Fig. 23) and wash it in
kerosene or other suitable solvent to remove all old
oil and dirt. Lubricate the filter element with SAE 30
engine oil.
Remove the carburetor. Hand turn a Vk inch drill
through the passages to dislodge solid particles. Blow
passages clean.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should metal
be removed. Use a smaller drill, if necessary.
Clean the air cleaner element as outlined on page
15.
Closed
Ventilation
System
Periodic service of the fully closed crankcase ventilation system (Fig. 24) is required to maintain good
engine performance and durability as deposits of combustion products will accumulate in the valve, hose
and carburetor passages.
On cars equipped with the silenced carburetor air
cleaner with a wrapper on the cleaner element (Fig.
26), the system should be serviced every six months
and the valve replaced once a year. The air cleaner
element and wrapper should be replaced every two
years.
On cars with high performance engines equipped
with non-silenced air cleaners without a wrapper, the
system should be serviced with every engine oil
change and the valve and air cleaner element replaced every year.
This service will be required more frequently if
vehicle is used extensively for short-trip driving less
than 10 miles with frequent idling, such as in city
traffic.
Service
THIS WASHER IS COLOR CODED TO IDENTIFY VENT
VALVE ASSEMBLY
V-8
Fig.
ENGINES
24—Closed Crcmfccase Ventilation
64x307B
System
If the valve is working properly, reinstall the ventilator valve and cap assembly and remove the oil
filler pipe breather cap. With the engine still idling,
loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over
the oil filler pipe. After allowing a few seconds for
crankcase pressure to reduce, the paper should be
drawn against the filler pipe with a noticeable force.
If this occurs, a final check should be made to be
certain the valve shuttle is free. Shut off the engine,
remove the valve and shake it vigorously. A clicking
noise should be heard if the valve is satisfactory and
no further service is necessary.
If the valve does not click when shaken, or the paper
is not drawn against the filler pipe, the valve should
be replaced and the system rechecked.
NOTE: Do not attempt to clean the valve. Replace
it with a new valve.
Procedure
With the engine idling, remove the ventilator valve
and cap assembly from the rocker cover (Fig. 24). If
the valve is working freely, a hissing noise will usually
be heard as air passes through the valve, and a strong
vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over
the valve inlet.
NK577
Fig. 25—011
Filler Breather
Cap
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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-15
Use valves that have either the letter "H" stamped
on the end, aflatend, or black end washer.
Remove the ventilator valve hose (Fig. 24) from
the valve cap, inspect it and clean, if necessary.
Also, remove the breather cap hose (Fig. 24) from
the cap and the air cleaner. Inspect the hose and clean
it if necessary.
Remove the closed breather cap (Fig. 25) and disconnect the hose leading from the air cleaner. Clean
the cap in solvent. Lubricate the filter element through
the vent tube with SAE 30 engine oil.
Remove the carburetor. Hand turn a Vk inch drill
through the passages to dislodge solid particles. Blow
passages clean.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should metal
be removed. Use a smaller drill if necessary.
Carburetor Air Cleaner—with
Wrapper
To clean the filter it should be removed from its
container. Remove the wrapper from the element
(Fig. 26). Wash the wrapper in kerosene or other suitable solvent to remove all dirt and oil. Shake or blot
dry. Gently blow out the dirt from the element with
compressed air. The air nozzle should be held about
two inches from the inside screen (Fig. 28).
If the element is saturated with oil for more than
one-half of its circumference, replace the element and
wrapper. If noticeable quantities of oil are found on
the element, the rest of the system should be inspected for proper function.
Clean the metal container and reinstall the filter
and wrapper.
Carburefor Air Cleaner—Wifhouf
Fig. 27-—Carburetor Air Cleaner
NOTE: Whenever oil wetting of the paper elements
is observed, the ventilator valve and associated
parts should be inspected for excessive deposit
build-up or plugging.
These services will be required more frequently if
the vehicle is used extensively for short trips with
frequent idling.
Wrapper
Remove the element from its container. If the element is dry and with only one or two oil wetted spots,
clean by blowing with compressed air as outlined on
page 16.
If the element is saturated with oil, install a new
element.
Fig. 26—-Carburetor Air Cleaner Element
Wrapper
CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER (Paper
Element Type)
The paper filter element (Fig. 27) in the carburetor
Fig. 28—Cleaning
Filter
Element
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<M6
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
air cleaner should be cleaned every six months and
replaced every two years.
To clean, remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. Remove the cover and filter element and clean
the cover and housing. Using compressed air, gently
clean the element by holding the air hose nozzle at
least two inches from the inside screen (Fig. 28).
Examine the element for punctures. Discard an element that has small pin-point punctures. Examine the
soft plastic sealing rings on both sides of the element
for smoothness and uniformity.
At this time, also service the Carburetor Choke
Shaft and Linkage.
CARBURETOR CHOKE SHAFT AND LINKAGE
Gum deposits on the choke shaft bearings may be
removed by applying Carburetor Cleaner, Part Number 1643273, to assure freedom of movement of the
choke shaft and linkage.
With the air cleaner removed, apply the cleaner to
the ends of the choke shaft where it rotates in the air
horn (Fig. 29). At the same time, move the choke shaft
back and forth until the deposits areflushedout.
Run the engine at idle to clean out any excess cleaner from the carburetor and intake manifold.
Fig. 30—Fuel
Filter (383 and 413 Cu. In. Engines)
is assured by application of Manifold Heat Control
Valve Solvent, Part Number 1879318.
Apply the solvent when the manifold is COOL to be
sure that the deposits will dissolve properly. When applying the solvent at the ends of the shaft (Fig. 31)
move the valve back and forth and in and out to properly distribute the solvent to make sure the deposits
are dissolved.
FUEL FILTER
DISTRIBUTOR
Accumulation of large quantities of foreign matter
in the fuel filter due to operating conditions or contamination of fuel will restrict the flow of fuel to the
carburetor.
The fuel filter (Fig. 30) is of the disposable type and
should be discarded when removed. After installing
the new filter, run the engine for several minutes
and check for leaks at the connections.
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE
Apply three drops of light engine oil to the felt
rotor wick (Fig. 32). Avoid over-oiling to prevent
the oil from getting on the breaker contacts. Also,
applyfiveto ten drops of light engine oil to the oil cup.
Before lubricating the cam, carefully wipe off all old
lubricant from the cam and rubbing block. Apply a
thin film of Cam Lubricant, Part Number 1473595, to
the cam surface. Avoid applying an excess amount of
lubricant to prevent it spreading to the breaker contacts.
Freedom of movement of the heat control valve by
removing lead deposits from the valve shaft bearings
Fig. 31—Manifold
Fig. 29—Apply
Solvent to
Choke Shaft
Ends
Heat Control Valve (383 and
413 Cu. In. Engine)
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LUBRICATION A N D M A I N T E N A N C E
0-17
62x167
Fig. 33—Transmission
Fig. 32—-Disfribufor Lubrication
Dip Stick
Markings
Points
ALTERNATOR
The alternator is provided with prelubricated bearings, which require no periodic lubrication.
The outside of the alternator should be wiped clean
and the ventilating holes inspected for an accumulation of dirt which would obstruct the flow of air. Refer to Electrical, Group 8, for complete servicing of
the alternator.
BATTERY
Check the specific gravity, using a reliable hydrometer. Fill the cells to the recommended level with mineral-free water. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals and tighten terminals. Coat the connections
with light mineral grease or petrolatum.
Refer to Electrical, Group 8, for complete servicing.
TRANSMISSION
Automatic
The fluid level should be checked when the engine
temperature gauge indicates a normal warmed-up condition and the transmission fluid is heated to its normal operating temperature. While the level may be
determined when the fluid is cold, the former method
is preferred.
Check the level with the parking brake applied firmly and the engine idling.
"FULL" mark, or slightly below, but never above
the "FULL" mark (Fig. 33) to avoid foaming of the
fluid. Fluid should be added or extracted, depending
upon the reading, to restore the level as indicated.
If it is necessary to check the level when the transmission is "cold," the fluid level should be at, or
slightly below the "ADD ONE PINT" mark. If the level
is below this mark, add one pint of fluid and recheck
the level.
Use only Automatic Transmission Fluid, AQ-ATF,
Suffix "A," Part Number 1843314, (AQATF-1470A),
which is designed specially for Chrysler Corporationbuilt transmissions. No other fluids are recommended.
Exceptions to this are the use of refined kerosene to
aid starting in very cold weather and special dyes
to aid in detecting fluid leaks. In addition, Transmission Sealer, Part Number 2298923, may be used in
high mileage cars to correct minor seal leaks.
If starting is difficult when the average temperature
consistently ranges below —10°F., drain one and onehalf pints of transmission fluid (Fig. 34) and replace
with an equal amount of refined kerosene. Do Not
Dilute The Fluid More Than Once. Thereafter, any
replenishment should be with Automatic Transmission Fluid, AQ-ATF, Suffix "A."
CAUTION: Before removing the level indicator,
wipe off the cap and the top of the filler tube to prevent accumulated dirt from dropping into the
transmission filler tube.
After the engine has idled for about two minutes,
move the gearshift lever slowly through all gear positions, pausing momentarily in each position and ending with the lever in " N " position.
When the fluid is "hot," the level should be at the
Fig. 34—Converter Drain Plug
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0-18
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
Fig. 3 7 — M a s t e r
Fig. 3 5 — M a n u a l Steering
Gear
Lubrication
should be to the bottom of the filler neck (Fig. 36)
when the engine is cold. When the engine is hot, the
fluid level should be maintained one-half way up in
the filler neck.
CAUTION: Before removing the filler neck cap,
wipe it carefully to prevent accumulated dirt from
dropping into the reservoir.
STEERING GEAR
Manual
The lubricant should completely cover the worm
gear. When inspection through the filler plug hole (Fig.
35) indicates replenishment is necessary, fill the housing to the proper level using Multi-Purpose Gear Oil
SAE 90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B. This lubricant is
suitable for all temperature ranges. It is not necessary to replace the lubricant.
CAUTION: When filling, do not use a pressure gun
as high pressure may damage the seals.
Power
Cylinder
Steering
Fluid level in the power steering pump reservoir
If necessary to restore the level, add Power Steering Fluid, Part Number 2084329.
BRAKES
The brakes on all models, except for some police
cars and high-performance models, are equipped with
self-adjusting features which make it unnecessary to
perform major brake adjustments.
When brake linings are inspected for wear, the contact areas of the brake shoes to the brake supports
should be lubricated with a very thin film of Sylglyde,
Part Number 1881923.
To perform this service, remove the brake shoes,
clean the contact areas and smooth down with sandpaper before applying the Sylglyde.
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM
The fluid level in the master cylinder should be
maintained to within one-quarter inch of the top of
the reservoir (Fig. 37).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
cover and screw, wipe them clean to prevent dirt
and other foreign matter from dropping into the
reservoir.
Fig. 36—Power Steering
Pump
Reservoir
Replenish fluid, when necessary, with Hi-Temp
Brake Fluid, Part Number 2421352, for best performance.
Inspect brake hoses for cracking, MyMopar.com
abrasions, cuts or
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
0-19
blade bridge and slide out the rubber blade. Slide the
new rubber blade refill into the bridge to lock it in
place. Refer to the Parts List for the correct rubber
blade refill.
RATCHET
PARTS REQUIRING N O LUBRICATION.
PEDAL
NK603
Fig. 38'—Foot-Operated
Parking
Brake
tears in the outer covering. Examine all connections
for fluid leakage and correct where necessary.
There are many points that should not be lubricated, some because they are permanently lubricated,
some because lubricants will be detrimental to their
operating characteristics, and some because lubricants will cause component failures. In any event,
rubber bushings should not be lubricated, not only because lubricants will cause rubber to fail, but also will
destroy their necessary friction characteristics. The
following parts should not be lubricated:
All Rubber Bushings
Drive Belts
Alternator Bearings
Fan Belt Idler Pulley
Brake Linkages (Driver's Rear Springs
Rear Wheel Bearings
side of Dash Panel)
Starter Bushings
Carburetor Air Cleaner
(Paper Element Type) Upper and Lower Control
Arm Bushings
Clutch Adjustment
Water Pump Bearings
End Rods
Clutch Release Bearings
PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
AH models use a foot-operated lever (Fig. 38). Pivot
points indicated should be lubricated with a light film
of Lubriplate, Part Number 1064768, applied directly
to the parts.
When the foot pedal can be depressed more than
four and one half inches, the brake cable should be
adjusted at the rear of the front section, refer to Parking Brake Adjustment.
HEADLAMPS
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
To service a noisy speedometer cable, disconnect
the housing at the speedometer head. Remove the
shaft and clean it thoroughly. Apply a very thin film
of Speedometer Cable Lubricant, Part Number
1243632, on the shaft. Wipe excess lubricant from the
top one-foot of the shaft and from the ferrule.
CAUTION: Excessive lubricant may cause malfunction of the speedometer.
One of the most important factors in automobile
safety, is the correct aiming of the headlamps. Changes
in suspension, such as front suspension height and/or
deflection of rear springs due to heavy loading, will
change the headlamp beam pattern and may cause unsafe night time driving conditions.
If a vehicle is abnormally loaded, such as for a
vacation trip, or with a salesman's products, the headlamp aiming should be checked and adjusted to serve
the new conditions. Refer to Lighting System Group
8, for servicing procedures.
LUBRICATE
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES
Long exposure to heat and road splash tend to harden the rubber wiper blades, thus destroying their efficiency. When blades smear or in general do not satisfactorily clean the windshield, they should be replaced.
To replace, depress the release on the top of the
LUBRICATE
NK610
Fig. 39—Hood Lock Assembly
AC-3
Models)
(AC-J, AC-2,
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0-20
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
HOOD LOCK
Lubrication of the hood lock mechanism and safety
catch is of vital importance to assure ease of operation and freedom from binding.
Apply Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease to all pivot points (Fig. 39), springs and rubbing surfaces.
Work the lubricant in the lock mechanism until all
frictional surfaces are covered.
BODY MAINTENANCE
To maintain ease of operation and protection
against rust and wear, the body mechanisms and
throttle linkage will require lubrication. These items
should be inspected periodically, and when indicated
by an increase in operating effort or noise, lubricated
as described in the following paragraphs.
Prior to applying any lubricants, the parts should
be wiped clean to remove dust and grit. The excess
oil or lubricant should be removed.
Particular attention should be given to external
lock cylinders during fall and winter months to insure
protection from water and ice.
Lock Cylinders
Apply a thin film of lubriplate directly to the key.
Insert key into lock cylinder and actuate several times.
Wipe excess lubricant from key.
Fig. 41—Hood Hinge Lubrication
Points
(AY-1
Models)
Door Locks, Remote Controls,
Window
Regulators
When lubrication is required, it is first necessary to
remove the door or quarter trim panel. Then, apply a
thin film of Lubriplate to all pivot and sliding contact surfaces, including sector gear teeth on window
regulators.
Hood Hinge
Lubrication Points
(AC-1, A C - 2 , A C - 3 Models)
Door Check Arm—Rear
Door
On Imperial models only, apply a thin film of Stainless Stick Lubricant directly to upper edge of door
frame.
Deck Lid Latch
Apply a thin film of Lubriplate to inner pivot and
sliding contact surfaces.
Apply Lubriplate, Part No. 1064768, sparingly to
pivot contact areas, including torsion bar contacts
(Fig. 40).
Hood Hinge Lubrication Points (AY-1
FRONT DOOR UPPER
FRONT DOOR LOWER
Fig. 40—Hood Hinge Lubrication
(AC-l,AC-2,AC-3
Models)
Points
Models)
Apply Lubriplate, Part No. 1064768, sparingly to
pivot contact areas, including spring anchor points
(Fig. 41).
R
E
A
R
D
O
O
R
REAR DOOR LOWER NK631
Fig. 42—Door Hinge Lubrication
(AC-l,AC-2,AC-3
UPPER
Points
Models)
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LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
0-21
HANDLE
GUIDE
CONTACT AREA
• I
STRIKER
NK632
I
Fig. 43—Poor Striker Rotor and Striker P/afe—
Lubrication Points (All Models)
TORSION BAR AND HINGE BEARING
GUIDE CONTACT
AREA
NK638
SUPPORT
Fig.
46—Tailgate
Guide
Torsion Bar and
Plate—Lubrication
(AC-l
Door Hinges—AC-?,
AY-1
TORSION BAR SUPPORT
BEARING AREA
NK635
Fig. 44—Deck Lid Hinge—Lubrication
(AC-l,
AC-2, AC-3
Points
Models)
PIVOT CONTACT AREA
f
AC-3
Check Arm
Points
Models)
A C - 2 , A C - 3 and
Models
On all hinges, apply light engine oil sparingly to
hinge pin and contact area of bushing and body
half of hinge (Fig. 42).
On lower hinges, apply light engine oil sparingly to
the spring ends (Fig. 42).
On front door lower hinge, apply light engine oil
sparingly to contact area of pin, arm and spacers (Fig.
42).
On rear door lower hinge, apply light engine oil
sparingly to roller pin and contact areas between the
roller and body hinge half, and pin and contact areas
TORSION BAR CONTACT
SPRING SURFACES
PIVOT
CONTACT AREA
Fig. 45—Deck
Lid Hinge
(AY-1
Lubrication
Models)
NK634
Points
NK657
Fig. 47—Fuel
Tank Access
Points (AC-l,
Door Hinge
AC-2, AC-3
Lubrication
Models)
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0-22
LUBRICATION AND
MAINTENANCE
Fig. 48—Throttle
(AC-l,
Linkage—Lubrication
AC-2, AC-3
of door hinge half and check arm (Fig. 42). Avoid placing lubricant on roller surfaces of hinge arm and roller.
Door Latch
Striker Rotor—All Models
Points
Models)
rotor inside bearing surfaces (Fig. 43).
Door Lafch
Striker Plates—All
Models
Apply Stainless Stick Lubricant sparingly to upper
edge of plate on door frame (Fig. 43).
Apply two or three drops of light engine oil to the
MyMopar.com
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE
Deck Lid Hinge Lubrication
and A C - 3 Models]
(AC-1, A C - 2
ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVALUATION
Apply Lubriplate, Part Number 1064768, sparingly, to pivot contact areas, including torsion bar contacts (Fig. 44).
Deck Lid Hinge
Models)
Lubrication
0-23
Points I
Apply Lubriplate, Part No. 1064768, sparingly to
pivot contact areas, including torsion bar contacts
(Fig. 45).
Tailgate Torsion Bar and Check Arm Guide
Plate Lubrication Points ( A C - J , A C - 3 Models)
Apply engine oil sparingly to hinges. Apply Stainless Stick Lubricant, Part No. 1064769, to sliding contact surfaces and tailgate lock striker plates and dovetail surfaces. Apply a thin film of Automotive Multipurpose Grease to contact surfaces between torsion
bar and tailgate hinge or tailgate end face plate—right
side only (Fig. 46).
Fuel Tank Access Door Hinge
A C - 3 Models!
(AC-1, A C - 2 ,
Engine operating efficiency depends on correct ignition, carburetor adjustments, and on valve lash
where applicable. To obtain best engine performance,
Chrysler Corporation recommends that the engine be
evaluated every 10,000 miles and tuned, if necessary.
Services performed during this evaluation should include the following:
1—Spark Plugs—Remove and inspect each spark
plug. Most plugs can be cleaned, adjusted, and reinstalled. Rough idle, hard starting, frequent engine miss
at high speeds, or apparent physical deterioration, are
indications that the spark plugs should be replaced.
2—Distributor—Clean and inspect the distributor
cap and rotor if required (wash cap in household
detergent and water solution). Check breaker contacts
for abnormal pitting, bluing, or misalignment, and
adjust. Lubricate cam and wick, (see page 16). Be sure
that all distributor secondary wires and tower caps are
clean and connected properly. See "Electrical Group"
for ignition timing procedures and settings.
Apply a thin coat of Automotive Multi-Purpose
Grease to the panel springs and pin (Fig. 47).
Throttle Linkage (AC-1, A C - 2 , A C - 3 Models)
On all models, apply a thin film of Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI Grade 2 to both ends of the
accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket (Fig.
48).
On models with manual transmission, also, apply a
thin film of the same lubricant on the accelerator shaft
where the nylon roller rolls on it.
On models with automatic transmission, apply a
thin film of the same lubricant on the nylon roller
where it contacts the pedal, on the pivot points of
both upper and lower transmission linkage bellcranks
and at all clipped ends of the transmission linkage
rod bearing areas.
Throttle Linkage
3—Carburetor—Remove and clean air filter. Check
operation of manifold heat control valve and choke
diaphragms; use solvent recommended. Clean crankcase ventilation system, (see page 13). See Fuel System
Group for carburetor adjustment procedures.
4—Battery—Check specific gravity. Clean and tighten terminals; apply grease to post and terminals.
Check circuit voltages as directed in the Electrical
Group.
5—Starter—Test cranking ability as described in
"Electrical Group."
(AY-1 Models)
Apply a thin film of Automotive Multi-Purpose
Grease NLGI Grade 2 to both ends of the accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket and where
the nylon roller rolls on it (Fig. 49).
6—Valve Lash (where applicable)—Should an engine continue to be noisy and the idle rough after a
tune-up, adjust valve lash to specifications. Refer to
the Engine Group for lash values and instructions.
MyMopar.com
GROUP 1
ACCESSORIES
CONTENTS
Page
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
A U T O PILOT
AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGER
ELECTRIC C L O C K
Page
1
4
7
9
HEATER AY-1
HEATER A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3
RADIO A N D A N T E N N A
WINDSHIELD WASHERS
9
12
13
20
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
N O T E : It is recommended that the diagnosis be performed in the
shows the trouble to be a n internal
Auto-Pilot
unit be r e p l a c e d . Do not attempt a n y internal
Condition
drive
sequence outlined.
If the
mechanism condition. It is recommended
diagnosis
that the
service on the drive mechanism.
Possible C a u s e
Correction
AUTO-PILOT
AUTO-PILOT C O N T R O L .
(a)
BUTTON D O E S N O T
(b) Poor electrical connections to the
(a)
Blown fuse.
control.
REMAIN O U T W I T H
IGNITION
N O "SPEED W A R N I N G "
(a)
Faulty control.
Blown fuse or faulty wiring
in motor circuit
(c)
Replace the control unit if necessary.
(a)
Test wiring circuits. S e e "Electrical Tests"
(red wire).
PEDAL PRESSURE
"SPEED
panel
control for grounding.
(c)
ON
Replace the fuse.
(b) Test the connections a n d the instrument
WARNING"
(b) Accelerator linkage broken or disconnected.
(b) Connect or replace the linkage a n d adjust.
(a)
Faulty electrical circuit.
(a)
S e e "Electrical Tests" (Red W i r e ) .
(a)
Insufficient brake switch c l e a r a n c e .
(a)
Adjust auto-pilot brake switch.
PEDAL PRESSURE A T
ALL S P E E D S (INCLUDI N G B E L O W 22 MILES
PER HOUR)
AUTOMATIC
LATCHING
DOES NOT E N G A G E
(b) Brake p e d a l
not returning
fully.
(b) Test brake p e d a l for full return. Adjust or repair a s necessary.
W H E N B U T T O N IS
(c)
PULLED O U T .
"SPEED
Faulty electrical circuit.
(c)
S e e "Electrical Tests" (Blue a n d Black W i r e s ) .
N o . 3 black wire to the panel control is ground-
(a)
Test the circuit for ground a n d repair if neces-
WARNING"
O.K.
AUTOMATIC
LATCH
(a)
SPEED WITH C O N T R O L
(b) Faulty grounding switch in the instrument panel
(b) Test at N o . 3 terminal. Replace control unit if
necessary.
control.
B U T T O N PUSHED IN
AUTOMATIC LATCH
sary. (Black Wire).
ed.
E N G A G E S AT SELECTED
(a)
Faulty or improperly adjusted brake switch.
(o)
Test a n d adjust the brake switch. Replace if
necessary.
REMAINS E N G A G E D
W H E N BRAKE PEDAL IS
TOUCHED
(a)
S e e "Electrical Tests" (Black a n d Blue W i r e s ) .
UNIT D I S E N G A G E S
(a)
INTERMITTENTLY
(b) Insufficient brake switch c l e a r a n c e .
(b) Adjust brake switch to specifications.
(a)
(a) Adjust control cable.
ON
Poor electrical connections.
ROUGH ROADS
A U T O - P I L O T WILL
Improper control c a b l e adjustment.
N O T FUNCTION AT
L O W END O F DIAL
MyMopar.com
1-2
ACCESSORIES—DIAGNOSISCondition
Correction
Possible Couse
AUTO-PILOT—(Continued)
PULSATING
(a) Speedometer cable or drive cable
ACCELERATOR PEDAL
(b) Lack of cable lubrication.
kinked.
(c) Improper accelerator linkage adjustment.
(a) Align the cables. Replace if necessary.
(b) Lubricate the cables.
(c) Adjust the accelerator linkage.
CARBURETOR D O E S N O T (a) Improper auto-pilot linkage adjustment.
(a) Adjust the auto-pilot control rod.
RETURN T O NORMAL
(b) Standard throttle linkage defective.
(b) Repair or replace the linkage.
(a) Speedometer
(a) Replace the speedometer drive pinion.
IDLE
SPEEDOMETER D O E S
N O T REGISTER OR UNIT
D O E S N O T OPERATE
drive pinion
in transmission is
faulty.
(b) Faulty speedometer cable.
(b) Replace the speedometer cable.
(c) Faulty drive cable from transmission to the auto-
(c) Replace the drive cable.
pilot drive mechanism.
(d) Faulty speedometer.
(d) Repair or replace the speedometer if necessary.
SPEEDOMETER N O I S E
(a) Cables bent or kinked.
(a) Replace the cables.
(b) Lack of cable lubrication.
(b) Lubricate the cables.
(c) Noisy speedometer head assembly.
(c) Repair or replace the speedometer as necessary.
UNIT REPEATEDLY
(a) Short circuit in wiring, drive mechanism or
B L O W I N G FUSES
(a) See "Electrical Tests/'
switches.
AUTOMATIC BEAM
CHANGER
UNIT N O T O P E R A T I N G
(a) Poor grounding of control units.
(a) C l e a n and tighten all control units.
(b) Electrical circuit not properly wired.
(b) Trace the circuit, see the schematic diagram.
(c) Faulty dimmer switch.
(c) Replace the dimmer switch.
(d) Faulty tube.
(d) Replace the tube.
(e) Faulty scanner.
(e) Replace the scanner.
(f)
(f)
Faulty control units.
Replace the faulty control units.
(g) Improperly focused scanner unit.
(g) Focus the scanner.
(h) Loose cover screws.
(h) Tighten the cover screws as they also ground
the unit.
TUBE N O T LIGHTED
(a) Faulty dimmer switch.
(a) Replace the dimmer switch.
(b) Poor grounding
(b) Remove, clean and reinstall the control units.
of control units.
(c) Faulty tube.
(c) Replace the faulty tube.
(d) Poor electrical connection.
(d) Clean and tighten all electrical connections.
ELECTRIC CLOCK
CLOCK DOES NOT
(a) Wire connector not on clock terminal.
(a) Connect wire to terminal.
OPERATE
(b) Internal short.
(b) Remove clock and repair as necessary.
HEATER
INSUFFICIENT HEAT
(a) Coolant too low.
(a) Fill the radiator.
(b) Temperature valve not opening, A Y - 1 .
(b) Inspect the valve and repair as needed. Test
(c) Engine thermostat open.
(c) Replace the thermostat.
the bowden cable adjustment.
(d)
Pamaged vacuum line to shut-off damper.
(d) Replace the vacuum line.
(e) Obstructed heater hose.
(e) Replace the heater hose.
(f)
(f)
Leaking lower radiator hqse.
Correct the leak, and bleed the system.
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ACCESSORIES—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
1-3
Correction
Possible Cause
HEATER—Continued
T O O MUCH
(a)
HEAT
BLOWER MOTOR
NOT
(b) Disengaged c a b l e .
(a) Free up the temperature v a l v e a n d c a b l e .
(b) C o n n e c t or replace the c a b l e .
(c) Thermostat stuck in closed position.
(c) R e p l a c e the thermostat.
Temperature valve stuck in open position, A Y - 1 .
(a) Replace the fuse.
(a) Blown fuse.
(b) Faulty
OPERATING
electrical
connection.
switch.
(b) Tighten all electrical connections.
(c) Replace the blower switch.
(c)
Faulty blower
(d)
Faulty motor.
(d) R e p l a c e the motor.
(a)
Blown fuse.
(a) R e p l a c e the fuse.
(b) Test with a n auxiliary
RADIO
R A D I O IS I N O P E R A T I V E
(b) Broken, loose or shorted a n t e n n a l e a d - i n .
antenna
and
replace
lead-in if necessary.
(c) Loose battery c a b l e .
(c) Test the voltage
connections.
at the fuse a n d tighten all
(d) Burned out transistor.
(d) S e n d radio to authorized radio service station
for repair.
(e) Replace the speaker.
Test the a n t e n n a a n d repair.
(e) Faulty speaker.
(f)
Faulty
R A D I O R E C E P T I O N IS
(a)
U n b a l a n c e d a n t e n n a trimmer.
WEAK
(b) Loose antenna l e a d - i n .
(b) Tighten the antenna lead-in.
(c)
(c) Test with a n auxiliary
lead-in if necessary.
antenna.
(f)
Shorted antenna lead-in.
(a) Adjust the antenna trimmer.
antenna
and
replace
(d) W e a k radio transistor.
(d) S e n d radio to authorized radio service station
for repair.
(e) Faulty a n t e n n a .
(e) Test the a n t e n n a a n d correct.
R A D I O R E C E P T I O N IS
(a)
(a) Move the vehicle or eliminate
N O I S Y (Engine Running)
(b) Insufficient or faulty radio capacitors.
(b) Install capacitors in ignition system.
R A D I O R E C E P T I O N IS
(a)
(a) G r o u n d the tires to the w h e e l s with p o w d e r e d
graphite.
N O I S Y (Car
Outside electrical interferences.
Static built up in tires.
in Motion)
(b) Loose antenna or lead-in wire.
R A D I O IS N O I S Y
W H E N (a) Loose antenna
ground.
interference.
(b) Tighten the antenna attaching nut. Inspect the
fit of the antenna lead-in plug in the socket.
(a) C l e a n a n d tighten the a n t e n n a connections.
E Q U I P M E N T IS
OPERATED
R A D I O R E C E P T I O N IS
(a)
S p e a k e r coil rubbing on voice core.
(a) Install an auxiliary speaker a n d c o m p a r e . Re-
DISTORTED
p l a c e if improved.
(b) Torn speaker cone.
(b) Replace the speaker.
(c)
(c) S e n d radio to authorized radio service station
Faulty radio transistors.
for
repair.
SEARCH TUNER RUNS
(a) Vehicle located in a w e a k signal a r e a .
CONTINUOUSLY
(b) Faulty radio transistor.
(a) Move the vehicle to a strong signal a r e a .
(b) Test a n d r e p l a c e a n y faulty transistors.
INTERMITTENT
(a)
wire.
(a) Test with a substitute a n t e n n a . Repair the l e a d -
(b) G r o u n d lead-in wire.
(b) Test with a substitute a n t e n n a . Repair the l e a d -
(c)
(c)
Broken lead-in
RECEPTION
in wire.
in wire or r e p l a c e .
Faulty radio transistor.
S e n d radio to authorized radio service station
for repair.
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1 -4
ACCESSORIES—AUTO-PILOT
Condition
Possible Cause
Correction
WINDSHIELD WASHERS
MOTOR DOES N O T
(a) Loose wiring terminals.
(a) Tighten the terminals.
RUN
(b) Corroded terminals.
(b) Clean a n d tighten the terminals.
(c) Broken wires.
(c) Repair or replace the wires.
(d) Faulty switch.
(d) Replace the wiper switch assembly.
(e) Faulty motor.
(e) Replace the motor a n d pump assembly.
(f) Poor ground.
(f) Clean the pump housing and tighten the mount-
(g) Faulty circuit breaker.
(g) Replace circuit breaker.
ing screws.
PUMP D O E S N O T
(a) Broken coupling.
(a) Replace the motor a n d pump assembly.
OPERATE M O T O R RUNS
(b) Faulty pump.
(b) Replace the motor a n d pump assembly.
INTERMITTENT
(a) Faulty circuit breaker.
(a) Replace circuit breaker.
O P E R A T I O N O F SYSTEM
AUTO-PILOT
Description
The auto-pilot is a driver operated voluntary speed
control. It can be used either as a warning signal to
indicate that a pre-set speed has been reached, or as a
fully automatic vehicle speed regulator.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
SPEED W A R N I N G OPERATION
LUBRICATION
The auto-pilot instrument panel control is used to
set the auto-pilot to a desired speed for existing driving conditions. When the pre-set speed is reached, the
auto-pilot provides a reaction pressure to the accelerator pedal pressure. Since the reaction pressure is
low, five to seven pounds, the driver can over-ride the
setting by pressing the accelerator through the reaction pressure.
All internal working parts of the auto-pilot are
equipped with self-lubricated bearings which have
been factory lubricated for the service life of the unit.
AUTOMATIC OPERATION
(Self-Latching)
The auto-pilot is self engaging when the pre-set vehicle speed is reached. Set the instrument panel control to the desired speed and pull the button in the
center of the control "OUT." When the desired vehicle speed is reached the reaction pressure is felt in
the accelerator pedal. At the point of reaction pressure the driver's accelerator pedal pressure is relaxed
and the accelerator is in the auto-pilot automatic regulation. The auto-pilot will automatically advance the
accelerator on uphill operation and retard on down
grade operation. Auto-pilot automatic control ceases
instantly with the slightest brake pedal movement
and the accelerator will revert to manual control. Disengagement of the automatic control may also be accomplished by pushing " I N " the button in the center
of the instrument panel control or turning the ignition switch to "OFF."
TESTS
The following mechanical and electrical tests will
aid in isolating and correcting malfunction conditions
for the auto-pilot. Service Diagnosis procedures must
be followed to make certain the malfunction is in the
auto-pilot unit and not in some other component of
the system.
If the malfunction cannot be definitely isolated, it
is recommended that the tests and adjustments be
performed in the following sequence:
Accelerator Linkage Adjustment
Control Cable Adjustment
Electrical Tests
ACCELERATOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
(Fig. 1)
(1) Make certain the automatic choke is "off" and
that the carburetor is at the normal idle position. Operate the linkage by moving the Auto-pilot exterior
arm several times and allow the linkage to ease into
its normal position. Do not force the linkage to close
the throttle.
(2) Loosen the lock nut on the Auto-Pilot linkage
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ACCESSORIES—AUTO-PILOT
Fig. 7 — A c c e l e r a t o r Linkage
Adjustment
Fig. 2—Auto
rod and insert the locking arm gauge Tool C-3844
over the stop stud on the auto-pilot.
(3) Hold the exterior arm against the gauge pin and
tighten the lock nut on the clearance between the
stop stud and the exterior arm with the carburetor in
the idle position.
CONTROL CABLE
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Loosen but do not remove the screw on the
dust shield. (This screw retains the control cable in
the bottom of the dust shield) (Fig. 2).
Pilot Dust
Shield
(2) Rotate the instrument panel control dial counter-clockwise until it contacts the internal stop.
(3) Push in lightly on the control cable at the dust
shield. This will position the control rod, to which the
inner cable attaches, against its upper stop.
CAUTION: Do not force the cable beyond this position.
(4) Make certain that the instrument panel control
dial is still against its extreme counterclockwise stop.
(5) Tighten the screw on the dust shield securely.
NOTE: A correctly adjusted control cable will not
spring back on full rotation in either direction.
INSTRUMENT
PANEL
BLACK
0
20 AMP.
FUSE-IN
FUSE BLOCK
WIRING
CONNECTOR
BLACK
BLUE
1 -5
INSTRUMENT
PANEL
CONTROL
LIGHTING
CIRCUIT
Oh
1
RED
DRIVE UNIT
/
AUTOPILOT
BRAKE SWITCH
(NORMALLY
CLOSED)
DASH PANEL
NK354
Fig. 3—Auto
Pilot Electrical
Circuit
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1 -6
ACCESSORIES—AUTO-PILOT
ELECTRICAL TESTS (Fig. 3)
AUTOPILOT BRAKE SWITCH ^ADJUSTMENT
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the "On" or "Accessory" position. PO NOT START THE ENGINE.
(2) Pull out the auto-pilot control button In the center of the Instrument panel control. Leave the button
out for all of the electrical tests. If the control button
will not stay out, test for a blown fuse, feed wire disconnected or poor grounding of the control.
(3) Terminal No. 1 (Red Wire)—using a test lamp,
ground one of the test lamp leads and touch the other
lead to terminal No. 1 (Fig. 4). The test lamp should
light. If the lamp fails to light, test for an "open" circuit in the red wire between the auto-pilot and the
ignition circuit.
(4) Terminal No. 2 (Blue Wire)—Ground one lead
of the test lamp and touch the other lead to the No. 2
terminal (Fig. 4). If the lamp fails to light, test for
"open" connections in the blue wire between the
auto-pilot and the auto-pilot brake switch. If the circuit is "open" at the brake switch, test the brake
switch adjustment.
NOTE: It is important that this adjustment be carefully performed to insure proper Auto-pilot operation.
Adjust the brake switch (Fig. 5) until the light goes
out with approximately Vk to ¥2 inch of brake pedal
movement.
For convenience in adjusting the brake switch, the
test lamp can be connected to the "Blue Wire" side of
the switch.
(5) Terminal No. 3 (Black Wire)—insert one lead
of the test lamp in the No. 1 terminal and the other
lead of the test lamp in the No. 3 terminal (Fig. 4).
The test lamp should light. If the lamp fails to light,
test for an "open" circuit in the black wire circuit between the auto-pilot and the instrument panel control. If the lamp still fails to light, inspect the instrument panel control for proper grounding. When the
J/
H
/
WIRING
CONNECTOR
GROUND
TEST L A M P
O
T
H
E
lE/^-T^j^!^'
R
Fig. 4—Testing
*
.\
Wiring
61x290 A
Circuits
NK353
Fig. 5-—Auto Pilot Brake
Switch
control button is pushed in, the lamp should go out if
the circuit is wired correctly.
INSTRUMENT PANEL CONTROL DIAL
CALIBRATION
(1) On a level stretch of road engage the Auto-pilot
at the full counterclockwise dial position. Carefully
increase the dial setting to the "3" mark on the dial,
being careful not to overshoot the "3" mark. If the
"3" mark is overshot repeat the setting procedure
from below the "3" mark.
(2) Record the speedometer reading with the dial
at the "3" mark.
(3) Move the dial to the "4" mark and record the
speedometer reading again being careful not to overshoot the "4" mark.
(4) Repeat the procedure at higher speeds until the
normal driving range has been covered.
(5) Repeat the procedure as the dial position is
lowered through the normal driving range being careful to avoid downward overshooting of the desired
mark on the dial.
(6) Examine the recorded speedometer readings at
each dial setting for both "upward" and "downward"
indications and adjust the dial for the best overall
correlation between the Auto-pilot control dial and
the speedometer.
For AY1 models turn the control knob until the set
screw on the control ring is at the top. Loosen the set
screw, using an Allen wrench, and rotate the control
the desired amount while preventing the ring from
turning with the Allen wrench. Tighten the set screw
and recheck calibration.
On AC-l, AC-2 and AC-3 Models, use a hex wrench
and remove the reset button, washer and control
knob. Rotate the plastic dial protruding through the
bezel the required amount. Install the control knob
and push it in all the way so the serrations on the
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ACCESSORIES—AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGER
dial and control knob mate. Tighten this set screw.
Retest the calibration and i f satisfactory, install the
washer and reset button.
DRIVE M E C H A N I S M
Removal
(1) Disconnect the wiring connector at the drive
mechanism.
(2) Disconnect the drive cable and speedometer cable at the drive unit.
NOTE: A small piece ©f tape will prevent the ferrule nut on the drive cable from falling down the
cable.
(3) Loosen the set screw at the lower end of the
dust shield. It is not necessary to remove the screw.
(4) Turn and pull the dust shield from the housing
and slide the dust shield down the cable and slip the
ball end of the bowden cable out of the socket.
(5) Disconnect the accelerator linkage from the exterior arm on the drive unit.
1-7
(6) Remove the bolts and nuts securing the drive
mechanism to the mounting brackets and remove the
drive mechanism leaving the brackets in the vehicle.
Installation
(1) Position the drive mechanism on the mounting
brackets and install the mounting bolts and nuts.
(2) Connect the drive cable and speedometer cable to the drive mechanism.
(3) Connect the accelerator linkage to the exterior
arm on the drive mechanism. Adjust the linkage.
(4) Install the ball end of the bowden cable in the
socket on the drive mechanism.
(5) Install the dust shield on the housing. Push in
and turn clockwise. Do not tighten the set screw on
the end of the dust shield until after the control cable is properly adjusted.
(6) Adjust the control cable.
(7) Connect the wiring connector at the drive mechanism.
AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGE!
MODELS AY-1
Description
The automatic beam changer is an automatic headlamp control unit which senses the headlamp intensity from other vehicles and automatically adjusts the
headlights to a bright or dim setting.
A scanner and base assembly is mounted on top of
the instrument panel (Fig. 1). The control unit is
mounted on a convenient structural part (grounding
purposes) of the vehicle's body, Fig. 2.
The automatic beam changer will dim the headlights when an oncoming car is seen at a distance of
approximately 1200 feet. The unit will reset the headlights on "bright" within approximately V% second
Fig.
1—Scanner
Assembly
after the approaching car has passed.
The headlamp setting can be interrupted by using
the conventional dimmer switch. If the unit has a hibeam setting and the driver feels that a "dim" setting is required, he can override the automatic control by depressing the dimmer switch to obtain the
"dim" condition. Automatic operation is restored
when the driver again depresses the dimmer switch.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
DRIVER ADJUSTMENTS
A knob, located at the rear of the scanner unit, Figure 1, provides a sensitivity adjustment. I f the head-
Fig. 2—Scanner
Control
Box
Assembly
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1-8
ACCESSORIES—AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGER
lights do not "dim" quickly enough upon approaching
another car, it is an indication that sensitivity is set
too "low" and correction is made by turning the scanner knob clockwise (to the right). If the headlights
"dim" too soon, sensitivity can be decreased by turning the scanner knob clockwise (to the right). If the
headlights "dim" too soon, sensitivity can be decreased
by turning the scanner knob counterclockwise (to the
left).
A I M I N G THE AUTOMATIC BEAM CHANGER
Pre-aiming instructions—Before attempting to aim
the automatic beam changer, complete the following:
Place the vehicle on a level floor. Measure the front
spring height. Adjust to specifications, if necessary.
Check tire inflation. Tire pressure should not vary
more than 3-5 pounds. Rock the vehicle sideways to
allow the spring shackles and other suspension parts
to assume normal position. If the fuel tank is not full,
place an equivalent weight in the trunk of vehicle.
There should be no load in the vehicle, other than
the driver.
AIMING THE SCANNER
Mount the "scanner" aimer leveling Tool C-3697,
on the "scanner" unit, as shown in Figure 3. Make
sure that all conditions listed under "pre-aiming instructions" have been met, before proceeding with
the aiming operation.
Loosen the Phillips head pivot locking screw, Figure 1, just enough to permit free movement of the
"scanner" through its arc, as controlled by the mounting base. (Total angular deflection of the "scanner"
unit is 14 degrees.)
Pivot the "scanner" forward or backwards on base
(through arc) until the leveler assumes a level position. Tighten the pivot and locking screws.
SCANNER UNIT
Removal
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
ment
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Disconnect the feed wires.
Remove the pivot and locking screws.
Remove the scanner assembly from the instrupanel.
Installation
(1) Mount the scanner to scanner base and position
on the instrument panel.
(2) Install the pivot and locking screw.
(3) Connect the feed wires.
(4) Connect the battery ground cable.
Fig. 3—Scanner
Leveling
Tool
(5) Perform the operations listed under "Aiming
the Scanner."
CONTROL BOX UNIT
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the left kickpad.
(3) Disconnect the control box wires at the connectors.
(4) Loosen the control box attaching screws.
(5) Remove the control box assembly.
Installation
(1) Clean the area around the body where the control box spacer is attached to the dash panel to obtain
proper metal to metal ground.
(2) Mount the control box assembly to the body
and the attaching screws.
(3) Connect the control box wires to the connectors.
(4) Install the left kick pad.
(5) Connect the battery ground cable.
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ACCESSORIES—ELECTRIC C L O C K — H E A T E R
1-9
ELECTRIC CLOCK
MODELS A C - 1 , A C - 2 , AC»3 AY-1
#
Description
A l l models (so equipped) have a solenoid actuated
self regulating electric clock. The electric clock can
be regulated by pulling out the regulating stem and
turning until the correct setting is accomplished.
SIRViCI PROCEDURES
Removal—Models
(5) From under the instrument panel disconnect
the wiring to the clock.
(6) Remove the four screws that mount the clock
to the instrument panel. The two screws on the right
are accessible through the glove box opening. The
screws on the left are accessible through the ash receiver opening.
(7) Remove the clock.
Installation—Models
AY-1
AY-1
(1) Remove the clock reset knob.
(2) Remove the screws that attach the instrument
cluster bezel to the instrument cluster and remove
the bezel.
(3) Remove the screws that attach the clock to the
instrument cluster.
(4) Pull the clock forward slightly and disconnect
the wiring to the clock.
(5) Remove the clock.
(1) Position the clock in front of the opening in the
instrument cluster and connect the wiring to the
clock.
(2) Place the clock into the instrument cluster
opening and install the attaching screws.
(3) Position the instrument cluster bezel on the instrument cluster and install the attaching screws.
(4) Install the clock reset knob.
Removal—Models A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the upper portion of the glove box
(four screws).
(3) Remove the ash receiver and housing assembly.
(4) Loosen the radio from the instrument panel
and move clear of the clock area.
(1) Position the clock in the instrument panel opening and install the four mounting screws.
(2) Connect the wiring to the clock.
(3) Install the ash receiver and housing assembly.
(4) Install the radio.
(5) Install the upper portion of the glove box.
(6) Connect the battery ground cable.
Installation—Models
AC-1, AC-2, AC-3
HEATER—MODELS A Y - 1
Description
The hot water heating system (Fig. 1) is controlled
by four push buttons and a temperature control lever.
A fifth push button independently controls the summer ventilation system.
The Temperature Control Lever—operates the water valve through a control cable. It is important that
the control cable be adjusted to provide full opening
and closing of the water valve for efficient functioning of the system. When the lever is in the upper position, air is not being heated. Air temperature is increased by moving the lever down toward the
"WARM" position.
Summer Ventilation—is controlled by the ventilator air damper.
For Heating—air enters through the cowl intake,
passes through the heater core into the blower and
distribution duct through the opened shut-off damper.
Defrosting—is controlled by the defrosted damper.
For maximum defrosting or deicing, the temperature
control lever must be set in the full warm position.
" O F F " Button—When the "OFF" button is pushed
in, the system will not operate. The "OFF" button
cuts off the current from the control lever switch and
blower motor. The ventilation doors are closed, preventing outside air from entering the vehicle.
" V E N T " Button—Opens the ventilation door to allow outside air to enter the vehicle directly. It does
not operate the blower.
" D E F " Button—Causes a major portion of the air
to be forced onto the windshield through the air outlets on top of the instrument panel for defrosting or
defogging.
"HI" Button—Causes a major portion of air to be
directed toward the vehicle floor, at a high blower
speed.
" L O " Button—Provides a gentle heat at a low
blower speed.
HEATING THE VEHICLE
Until the engine warms up, make sure the "OFF"
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1-10
ACCESSORIES—HEATER
F i g . I — P u s h Button Heater
button is pushed in and the temperature control lever
is in the "WARM" position. Then, push in the " H I "
button and leave the temperature control lever in the
"WARM" position for a fast initial vehicle warm-up.
After warm-up, the " L O " button can be used and the
temperature control lever adjusted to maintain the
desired temperature. At lower outside temperatures
and particularly to obtain maximum rear seat heating
performance, It may be necessary to use the "HI"
button to provide maximum air circulation. It Is Important to keep the windows closed, particularly the
front vent wints, to eliminate objectional drafts and
permit maximum air flow to the rear of the vehicle.
(Schematic
View)
NOTE: When the "HI" button Is pushed In, sufficient warm air will be forced onto the windshield
through the upper air outlets for adequate defogging during normal driving conditions.
DEFROSTING OR DEFOGG1NG THE
WINDSHIELD
Push the "DEF" button for maximum defrosting
and move the temperature control lever to the
"WARM" position. Under particularly severe fogging
conditions, opening the front vent wings temporarily,
will speed up the removal of fog from the windows.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
HEATER I L O W E R
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Disconnect the heater ground wire at the windshield wiper motor mounting bracket.
(3) Disconnect the heater wires from the harness
connectors.
(4) Disconnect the vacuum hoses at each vacuum
unit.
(5) Remove the hoses from their attaching clips.
(6) Remove the heater valve capillary coil from the
opening in the heater housing (driver's compartment,
passenger side).
(7) Remove the clips from the housing.
(8 Remove the three screws attaching the heater
distribution duct to the dash panel. (One is located to
the left of the vent door and to the right of the brake
pedal bracket; one below the heater at the passenger
side and one screw is located at the windshield wiper
motor right link pivot).
NOTE: To facilitate removal, disconnect the windshield wiper right link at the pivot to expose the
housing screws.
(9) Remove the housing and blower by pulling
down and out of the driver's compartment.
(10) Remove the blower, mounting plate and motor.
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ACCESSORIES—HEATER
VACUUM
ACTUATOR
VENTILATOR
DOOR LINKAGE
SCREWS
F i g . 3 — A d j u s t i n g Ventilator
Fig, 2 — H e a t e r Hose Connections
Installation
NOTE: If the blower motor was removed from the
mounting plate be sure the mounting grommets are
installed at the attaching bolts.
(1) Install the blower motor and mounting plate to
the heater housing. Be sure the blower wheel is free
and does not rub.
(2) Position the housing on the dash panel and install the three attaching screws. There Is a spacer at
each attaching screw. Be sure these spacers are installed between the heater housing and the dash panel when installing the housing, otherwise, the housing
could be damaged when tightening the screws.
(3) Reposition the heater water valve capillary coil
in the heater housing and install the attaching clips.
(4) Connect the vacuum hoses at the vacuum unit
and install the attaching clips.
(5) Connect the heater wire at the harness connectors and install the black ground wire at the windshield wiper motor bracket.
(6) Attach the windshield wiper motor pivot link
(if disconnected).
(7) Connect the battery ground cable.
HEATER V A C U U M A C T U A T O R — R E P L A C E M E N T
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hoses.
(2) Remove the two nuts and lockwashers attaching the vacuum unit to the housing, and one clip attaching the vacuum unit rod to the actuator unit.
HEATER C O R E
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
1-11
64 x 130
Door
(2) Drain the cooling system.
(3) Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater (Fig.
2).
(4) Remove the screws attaching the heater core
housing to the dash panel.
(5) Remove the housing and core as an assembly.
(6) Remove the mastic to expose the core mounting screws.
(7) Remove the heater core from the outer housing.
Installation
(1) Position the heater core in the heater outer
housing and install the screws.
(2) Install new mastic.
(3) Position the heater housing and core assembly
on the dash panel.
(4) Install all screws loosely, to insure proper
alignment before tightening.
(5) Connect the heater hoses at the heater. Make
certain the hoses are connected correctly (Fig. 2).
(6) Fill the cooling system.
VENTILATOR DOOR ADJUSTMENT
For efficient heater operation the ventilator door
must be properly adjusted. To adjust the ventilator
door proceed as follows:
(1) Loosen the two vacuum actuator mounting
screws.
(2) Push on the ventilator door linkage (Fig. 3) to
insure that the linkage is positioned "over-center."
(3) Push on the vacuum actuator (Fig. 3), until the
slack is removed.
(4) Tighten the vacuum actuator mounting screws
securely.
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1-12
HEATEI—ACCESSORIES
HEATER—MOI
IS
A C - 1 , A C - 2 , AC-3
Description
Heater
The heater is controlled by four pushbuttons, a
temperature control lever and a fan switch.
The Temperature Control Lever determines the position of the fresh air door in the heater assembly
which controls the amount of air which passes
through the heater core.
Two doors, inside the heater assembly, are controlled by the "Heat" and "Defrost" buttons. When
the "Heat" button is pressed the heater defroster door
is closed and the heater regulator door, by the action
of the vacuum actuator, is opened. When the "Defrost" button is pressed the heater regulator door remains open and the heater defroster door, by the action of the vacuum actuator, is opened to route the
heated air up to the windshield.
The "Rear Heat" button will automatically put the
heater in a high blower speed condition regardless of
the position of the fan switch.
The "Fan Switch" determines the speed of the
heater blower motor.
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) In the engine compartment disconnect the
heater hoses at the dash panel. Plug the hose fittings
on the heater. This will prevent any coolant from
spilling on the inside of the vehicle as the heater assembly is removed.
(3) From under the instrument panel remove the
bracket from the top of the heater to the dash panel.
(4) Remove the defroster hoses at the heater and
disconnect the vacuum lines at the heater.
(5) Disconnect the wiring at the heater blower motor resistor.
(6) Remove the glove box.
(7) Disconnect the control cable at the heater end.
(8) Unclamp the flexible connector at the right end
Heating
the
Vehicle
For best heating results the windows of the vehicle
should be closed. When the green temperature indicator light goes "out" move the temperature control
lever to the "warm" position. Push the "Heat" button
and move the fan switch to "high." The temperature
condition inside the vehicle can then be controlled using the "Fan Switch" and the "Temperature Control
Lever."
Summer
Ventilation
Two air inlets are provided to allow outside air to
be brought inside the vehicle in warm weather. The
control knobs for the inlets are located on the lower
edge of the instrument panel on both sides of the
steering column. Be sure the air inlets are shut dur-
ing cold weather.
Fig. 4—Heater
Hose
Connections
Removal
(Fig. 4)
of the heater. Do Not Remove the Connector.
(9) Pull the carpet or mat out from under the instrument panel.
(10) From inside the engine compartment remove
the three nuts that mount the heater assembly to the
dash panel.
(11) Pull the heater assembly toward the rear of
the vehicle until the mounting studs are clear of the
dash panel. Rotate the heater assembly until the studs
are down and remove the heater from under the instrument panel.
Heater
Installation
(1) Position the heater assembly under the instrument panel with the mounting studs down.
(2) Push the heater toward the front of the vehicle
while rotating the heater until the mounting studs are
in line with the mounting holes in the dash panel.
Push the heater until the studs protrude through the
dash panel.
(3) From in the engine compartment install the
three heater assembly mounting nuts.
(4) From under the instrument panel install the
flexible connector at the right end of the heater.
(5) Connect and adjust the control cables at the
heater assembly.
(6) Connect the wiring at the heater blower motor
resistor.
(7) Install the defroster hoses and connect the
heater vacuum lines.
(8) Install the heater to dash panel bracket.
(9) Install the glove box.
(10) Position the carpet or mat under the instrument panel.
(11) From in the engine compartment remove the
plugs from the hose fittings and connect the hoses to
the heater.
(12) Connect the battery ground cable.
(13) Start the engine, operate the heater and bleed
the air from the heater system.
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•ACCESSORIES—RADIO A N D ANTENNA
HEATER C O R E
Removal
(1) Remove the heater as outlined in "Heater Removal."
(2) Remove the heater cover plate.
(3) Remove the screws that mount the heater core
to the heater and remove the core.
Installation
(1) Position the core in the heater assembly and
install the mounting screws.
(2) Install the heater cover plate.
(3) Install the heater as outlined in "Heater Installation."
HEATER BLOWER MOTOR
Removal
(1) Remove the heater as outlined in "Heater Removal."
(2) Disconnect the wiring from the heater assembly to the blower motor.
(3) Remove the motor cooler tube.
(4) Remove the heater backplate (10 screws).
(5) Remove the fan from the motor shaft.
(6) Remove the blower motor from the back plate.
Installation
(1) Install the blower motor on the heater backplate.
(2) Install the fan on the motor shaft. Adjust for
clearance between the motor and fan.
(3) Install the heater backplate (10 screws).
(4) Install the motor cooler tube.
(5) Connect the wiring from the heater assembly
to the blower motor.
(6) Install the heater as outlined in "Heater Installation."
BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) From under the instrument panel disconnect
the wiring at the resistor.
(2) Remove the two screws that mount the resistor
to the heater and remove the resistor.
(3) Position the new or repair resistor into the
1-13
opening in the heater assembly and install the two
mounting screws.
(4) Connect the wiring to the resistor.
HEATER D O O R SERVICE
For service of either the heater regulator door,
heater defroster door or the heater fresh air door
the heater must be removed from the vehicle and
disassembled. Refer to "Heater Removal and Installation."
HEATER CONTROLS A N D ADJUSTMENTS
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) From under the instrument panel remove the
left defroster hose.
(3) From under the instrument panel remove the
three screws that mount the heater control assembly
to the instrument panel. Lower the control assembly below the instrument panel.
(4) Disconnect the temperature control cable at the
heater assembly.
(5) At the heater control position the temperature
control cable so approximately % inch of the cable
housing extends beyond the edge of the cable retaining clip.
(6) Install the heater control assembly to the instrument panel.
(7) Place the temperature control arm in the extreme left position and connect the cable to temperature control door crank on the heater assembly while
holding the door in the extreme right position.
(8) Install the left defroster hose.
(9) Connect the battery ground cable.
REAR W I N D O W DEFROSTER
The rear window defroster is located on and under
the rear shelf panel of the vehicle, and consists of a
blower, flexible hose and nozzle. A switch, located on
the instrument panel, controls the blower for defrosting the rear window. The rear window defroster operates independently from the heater. The air recirculated on the rear window glass is drawn by the defroster blower from air inside the vehicle.
RADIO AND ANTENNA—MODELS
A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3 , AY-1
Description
The radios available for Models AC-1, AC-2, and
AC-3 are the AM Model 365, the AM-FM Model 366
and the AM Search Tuner Model 416. The radios
available for Models AY-1 are the Search Tuner Model
417 and the AM-FM Model 367. All radios are fully
transistorized.
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1-14
RADIO—ACCESSORIES
Tuning is controlled by five push buttons and the
manual tuning knob on the right of the radio. On
models 416 and 417 search-tuning is controlled by
a three position sensitivity control plus the searchtune bar and a foot switch.
The volume, tone and the on-off switch are controlled by the dual knob on the left of the radio. The
rear speaker fader control, if so equipped, is located
on the bottom of the instrument panel. If the vehicle is equipped with a radio speaker reverberator,
the reverberator control on the instrument panel replaces the fader control. Pull the reverberator control "OUT" to turn "On" the reverberator unit. Push
the control " I N " to turn "Off" the reverberator and
give normal fader control operation.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
A M - F M RADIOS
Removal—Models
AY-1 (Fig. 1)
The AM-FM radio allows reception of both AMFM broadcast frequencies. To select AM or FM reception rotate the selector control, located behind the
manual tuning control, to the desired position. The
tuning knob and the On-Off and Volume control knob
operate in the same manner as the standard AM radio.
The following items should be noted for proper
AM-FM radio operation:
(1) If antenna trimming is required, place the band
selector control in the AM position and proceed with
the antenna trimming procedure as outlined in
"Antenna Trimming."
(2) The antenna should be extended to a height of
31 inches for maximum FM reception.
(3) The radio push button adjustment is the same
as the standard AM radio. It should be noted that a
push button adjustment is only good for one station
(either AM or FM) not both at the same time.
(4) Should a malfunction occur, the trouble shooting procedures are the same as for the standard AM
radio.
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the four screws that attach the ash receiver assembly to the instrument panel.
(3) Lower the ash receiver assembly and disconnect
the turn signal flasher and the ash receiver lamp
wiring.
(4) Remove the ash receiver assembly.
(5) From under the instrument panel remove the
two screws from the radio to instrument panel lower
reinforcement mounting bracket and remove the
bracket.
(6) Disconnect the antenna lead, the speaker leads
and the radio feed wire.
(7) Remove the pencil brace from the instrument
panel lower reinforcement to the dash panel. This
brace is located just to the left of the radio.
(8) Remove the radio control knobs and mounting
nuts from the front of the radio.
(9) Pull the radio out of the panel opening and rotate the radio 90 degrees so the face of the radio is
to the right of the vehicle, then carefully remove the
radio from under the instrument panel.
RADIO
Removal—Models
AC-1, AC-2, A C - 3 (Fig. 2)
NOTE: On vehicles with air conditioning, it is
necessary to remove the center air conditioning outlet hose.
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with the speak. er-detached si nee damage to the transistors may result.
Fig. ? — M a d i a — A Y - 1
Models
Fig. 2—Radio—-AC-!, AC-2, and AC-3
Models
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•ACCESSORIES—RADIO
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the ash receiver and housing assembly.
(3) Remove the radio control knobs.
(4) Remove the radio mounting nuts.
(5) Working through the ash receiver opening, disconnect the speaker leads, radio feed wire and antenna lead cable.
(6) Remove the radio to instrument panel mounting bracket.
(7) Remove the radio out through the ash receiver
opening in the instrument panel.
Installation—Models
(1) Position the radio into the instrument panel
opening from under the instrument panel.,
(2) Install the mounting nuts and radio control
knobs from the front of the radio.
(3) Install the pencil brace from the instrument panel lower reinforcement to the dash panel.
(4) Connect the antenna lead, the speaker and feed
wires.
(5) From under the instrument panel install the
radio to instrument panel lower reinforcement
mounting bracket.
(6) Position the ash receiver in front of the instrument panel opening and connect the turn signal flasher and ash receiver lamp wiring.
(7) Install the ash receiver assembly.
(8) Connect the battery ground cable.
Installation—Models
AC-7, AC-2, AC-3
(1) Install the radio in the instrument panel opening by inserting the radio up through the ash receiver opening in the instrument panel.
(2) Install the radio to instrument panel mounting
bracket.
(3) Connect the speaker leads, radio feed wire and
antenna lead cable.
(4) Install the radio mounting nuts.
(5) Install the radio control knobs.
(6) Install the center air conditioning outlet hose,
if so equipped.
(7) Install the ash receiver and housing assembly.
(8) Connect the battery ground cable.
SPEAKER
Removal—Models
AY-1
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) From the top of the instrument panel remove
the six screws that attach the radio speaker and defroster outlet grille assembly to the instrument panel
and remove the grille assembly.
(3) From the top of the instrument panel remove
the four screws that attach the radio speaker to the
instrument panel.
(4) Remove the radio speaker.
Removal—Models
AC-1,
AC-2,
1-15
AC-3
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the radio as outlined in "Radio Removal."
(3) Remove the upper section of the glove box.
(4) Reach through the glove box opening and remove the speaker mounting plate attaching screw that
is nearest the glove box opening.
(5) Reach through the ash receiver opening and remove the remaining speaker mounting plate attaching
screw.
(6) Remove the speaker and mounting plate out
through the ash receiver opening.
Installation—Models
AY-1
(1) Position the speaker in the speaker opening
in the instrument panel.
(2) From the top of the instrument install the four
screws that attach the radio speaker to the instrument
panel.
(3) Position the radio speaker and defroster outlet
grille on the top of the instrument panel and install
the six attaching screws.
(4) Connect the battery ground cable.
Installation—Models
AC-1
f
A C - 2 , AC-3
(1) Install the speaker and mounting plate through
the ash receiver opening and install the mounting
plate attaching screw on the left end of the mounting plate.
(2) Working through the glove box opening install
the remaining speaker mounting plate attaching
screw.
(3) Install the upper section of the glove box.
(4) Install the radio as outlined in "Radio Installation."
(5) Connect the battery ground cable.
ADJUSTMENTS
Push
4,
Buttons
(1) Extend the antenna fully and turn the radio on
for fifteen minutes.
(2) Unlock the push button by pulling it out and
manually tune in the desired station.
(3) Push the button back into position to lock the
adjustment.
(4) Repeat the operation on the other push buttons.
Local, Mid and Distant
(Models 416 and 417)
Settings
Local setting will tune the receiver to only strong
signal stations. Distant setting will tune the receiver
to most of the stations within range of the radio. For
weak stations, manual control should be used for
precise tuning.
MyMopar.com
1-16
RADIO—ACCESSORIES
Foot Switch
for Search
Tuning
The foot switch for search tuning, on Model 416
and 417, is located on the left forward end of the floor
panel. By depressing the foot switch, it will select a
station on the radio.
Antenna
Trimming
All radios are pre-trimmed by the radio manufacturer and no further adjustment is required for all original radio installations equipped with front fender
mounted antennas. Original radio installations
equipped with rear mounted power antennas required
a trimmer adjustment because of the use of the antenna lead-in cable extension. After a radio has been
repaired, a trimmer adjustment should always be performed. Trimmer adjustments are performed as follows:
(1) Operate the radio for 15 minutes.
(2) Extend the antenna to 40 inches.
(3) Manually tune the radio to noise or a weak signal between 1400 and 1600 K.C. For AM-FM radio
tune to noise below 1000 K.C.
(4) Increase the radio volume to full volume and
the tone control to maximum treble (fully clockwise).
(5) Adjust the antenna trimmer by carefully tuning
it back and forth until the position is found that
gives a peak response in volume. Maximum output
indicates the proper point of antenna trimmer adjustment.
Fader
Control
This control is used only when the vehicle is
equipped with a rear seat speaker. Positioning the
control in one extreme position allows operation of
the rear seat speaker. Rotating the control to the extreme opposite position allows both speakers to operate with varying volume as desired, or with equal volume at mid-position. If the vehicle is equipped with a
radio speaker reverberator the reverberator control
on the instrument panel replaces the fader control.
Pull the reverberator out "OUT" to turn "ON" the
reverberator unit. Push the control " I N " to turn
"OFF" the reverberator and give normal fader control
operation.
On the 416-417 Models, a five position switch speaker fader control is used in conjunction with the rear
speaker. This feature provides an extremely wide
range of sound level variation between the front and
rear compartments without the usual degree of precise tuning required of the normal variable controls.
Interference
Elimination
When installing suppression items, make certain
that all paint and dirt have been removed from the
MOUNTING
BOLT
:
*
/
CAPACITOR
Fig. 3—Ignition
Coil
KP 439 B
Capacitor
grounding area between the capacitors and the engine or body components. Tighten all nuts and bolts
securely.
The high tension portion of the engine ignition
system uses radio resistance wire as standard equipment.
The ignition coil capacitor is installed, Fig. 3.
The alternator is equipped with an internal interference capacitor which is integral with the output
stud.
MANUAL A N T E N N A — M O D E L S A C - l
AC-2 AC-3
r
r
Removal
(1) On the front fender antenna equipped models
unplug the antenna lead-in wire from the radio set at
instrument panel.
(2) Lower the antenna.
(3) Remove the nut attaching the antenna to the
fender.
(4) Remove the adapter and gasket.
(5) Remove the antenna assembly.
When installing the antenna, care should be taken
to route the lead-in cable over the glove box compartment to allow for ample cable length when plugging
the lead-in cable into the radio receptacle.
Installation
(1) Install the antenna rod, lower adapter and
mount the antenna to the front fender.
(2) Install the gasket, upper adapter and attaching
nut.
(3) Tighten the attaching nut.
(4) Install the lead-in cable in the radio.
(5) Test the radio for proper operation.
When an initial antenna installation is being performed it will be necessary to drill a hole in the body
sheet metal to allow mounting of the antenna. Refer
to Figs. 4 and 5.
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ACCESSORIES—RADIO
1-17
•2-1/2"1/10"
LOCATE THIS LINE
ON FENDER HOOD
OPENING
2-1/4"
ELECTRIC ANTENNA LOCATING TEMPLATE
RIGHT FRONT FENDER MOUNT
CENTER PUNCH
FOR 1 INCH DIAMETER
HOLE
FORWARD ^
\
27/32"
U-i"--^
^-5/16"
-12-3/4"Fig. 4—Antenna
Mounting
POWER A N T E N N A — M O D E L S A C - 1 , A C - 2 ,
A M ,
AY-1
Description
The power operated radio antenna (Fig. 6) is a tele-
64 x 127
Location
AY-1
Models
scoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a
coiled nylon cord actuated by a two direction electric
motor. The main components of the power antenna
are the motor and drive assembly, the mast assembly
and the support tube assembly. The antenna is serv
iced as a mast assembly, motor and the drive assem-
• r-
2V2
LOCATE THIS LINE
ON COWL OPENING
6
'LOCATE THIS LINE
ON FENDER OPENING
,f
2vr
CENTER PUNCH FOR
r/ "DIA. HOLE
8
FORWARD
F O R
CENTER PUNCH FOR
V
VX ^ ^ Xy/
3/16"DIA. HOLE (DRILL
/noil i
THIS HOLE FIRST)~—"""^ S
if
9/
716
-114'-10^
NK340
Fig. 5 — A n t e n n a Mounting
Location—AC-1,
AC-2
and AC-3
Models
MyMopar.com
1-18
RADIO—ACCESSORIES'
(a) Broken lead-in wire or shielding.
(b) Grounded lead-in wire or mast assembly.
(c) Moisture in the support tube or lead-in assembly.
(d) Poor connection (antenna lead-in assembly or
shielding ground).
The preliminary test may indicate that removing
the antenna from the vehicle is necessary for further
testing, repairs or parts replacement. In this event, follow the procedure for antenna removal.
Removal
NY1343B
Fig. 6—Power
Antenna
bly, connector, pad and pin assembly, lead-in assembly and the necessary switches.
Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent
cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections.
This may be performed when the vehicle is being
washed by cleaning the antenna mast sections with a
clean soft cloth. In the winter, wipe the clean antenna
sections with a cloth moistened with light oil.
Before an antenna is removed, the antenna
performance should be tested to determine whether it
is a reception problem or an operational problem.
Tests
Clean the antenna and drive assembly before test
or disassembly.
(1) With a source of 12 volt (D.C.) power, test the
operation of the drive mechanism by grounding the
negative (—) lead to the drive housing and with the
position ( + ) lead, contact the "yellow" (up) lead terminal to extend the antenna, and contact the "brown"
(down) lead terminal to retract the antenna.
If the motor will not operate, replace the motor and
drive assembly. If the motor runs freely and the antenna does not extend or retract, mast or drive assembly is at fault and should be replaced by either
a new mast or motor and drive assembly. If the motor labors and the antenna extends and retracts very
slowly, it may be caused by excessive dirt on the telescoping sections or bent telescoping mast rods.
Clean and straighten the telescoping mast rods.
(2) Occasionally poor reception can be corrected by
proper adjustment of the radio antenna trimmer. If
this fails to produce the desired results, a substitute
antenna known to be satisfactory may be plugged into
the radio with the extended mast held out of the
car window. (Do not ground the mast.)
Upon establishing that the fault is in the antenna assembly, it may be traced to one or more of the following conditions:
(1) Fully lower the antenna.
(2) For front mounted power antenna remove the
fender shield cover for access. For rear mounted power antenna open the luggage compartment for access
to the antenna assembly.
(3) Disconnect the motor leads at the connectors.
(4) Disconnect the antenna lead-in wire at the antenna.
(5) Remove the nut attaching the drive housing to
the antenna lower mounting bracket.
(6) For front mounted power antenna loosen the
collar tightening screw under the fender. For rear
mounted power antenna remove the cap nut, upper
adapter and gasket.
(7) Remove the antenna assembly, being careful
not to bend the mast rod.
Installation
(1) Install the antenna and connect the leads.
NOTE: On the field installed dual rear antennas,
care should be taken to route the rear antenna cable around the rear wheel housing behind the trunk
liner to the " Y " connector located behind the rear
slot in the luggage compartment so as to avoid interference from the hinges when opening and closing the lid.
(2) Test the radio operation.
Bench Test for Reception
Malfunction
(a) With the test lamp and battery in the circuit attach one test lead to the concentric pin on the "leadin" connector and the other test lead to the mast
sections. The lamp should "light" indicating continuity.
(b) Keeping the one lead on the connector pin,
clip the other lead on the antenna support tube assembly. The lamp should "not light." If it does, look
for a ground between the mast and support tube or
inner conductor from the pin and pad.
(c) Remove the clip lead from the connector pin
and clip it on the outer shell of the connector. Connect the other clip lead to the antenna support tube
assembly. The lamp should "light" again. If it does
not "light," the antenna shielding has an open circuit.
(d) Locate the ground or open circuit and repair
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ACCESSORIES—RADIO
1-19
or replace component parts as required.
NOTE: DO NOT attempt to service the details of
the Motor and Drive Assembly. This sub-assembly
must be serviced as a complete unit.
MOTOR A N D DRIVE OR MAST ASSEMBLY
Removal
(1) Remove the (2) two screws holding the "leadi n " receptacle.
(2) Unsolder the pin from the wire.
(3) Remove the (3) screws which hold the support
tube to the motor and drive assembly.
(4) Holding the motor and drive assembly in one
hand and the support tube in the other hand, pull
(applying back and forth rotary motion at the same
time) until the support tube assembly is removed from
antenna.
(5) Holding the motor and drive assembly in one
hand and mast assembly in the other hand (grasp near
bottom of mast assembly), rock the mast assembly
back and forth and pull at the same time. This will
remove the insulator bushing from tubular fitting
and outer mast section from the remainder of antenna
assembly.
(6) Apply 12 volts D.C. to the "yellow" (up) power
lead and ground, until the entire length of the nylon
cord has been expelled from the drive. To prevent a
kink or bend in the nylon cord, keep it taut by pulling
on the mast.
CAUTION: DO NOT DISASSEMBLE T H E MOTOR
AND DRIVE ASSEMBLY FOR ANY PURPOSE.
In order to remove the nylon cord from the disabled motor and drive assembly, place the assembly
Fig. 7—Removing
Bottom
Seal
Insulator
Washer
and
SUPPORT TUBE
Fig. 8—Assembling
Power
62x334
Antenna
in a vise so that the normal plane of the nylon cord is
parallel with the floor, then using both hands pull
on the nylon cord until it is completely expelled
from the drive.
(7) Remove the bottom insulator and water seal
washer (Fig. 7) from the tubular fitting using a wire
hook and long nose pliers.
Installation
(1) If the original mast assembly is reused, thread
the nylon cord through the bottom insulator with the
tubular projection down (Fig. 8). Then thread the
nylon cord through the water seal washers.
The bottom insulator and water seal washer are included on the service replacement mast assembly.
(2) Apply 12 volts D.C. to the "brown" (down) power lead and ground. Feed approximately 12 inches of
the nylon cord into the drive. Push the water seal
Water
Fig. 9—Installing
Mast
Support
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T-20
WINDSHIELD WASHERS—ACCESSORIES-
washer and bottom insulator all the way down into
the tubular fitting. Apply 12 volts D.C. power until
nylon cord disappears.
(3) Push the outer mast section down into the tubular fitting. Make sure that the upper edge of the
flange on the insulator bushing is below center of the
3 holes in the tubular fitting.
(4) Install the support tube assembly in proper position making sure the hook-up wire is extended
through the large hole in the body (Fig. 9).
(5) Install the (3) screws to attach the support tube
assembly to the motor and drive assembly.
(6) Solder the hook-up wire to the pin.
(7) Assemble the lead-in receptacle with the (2)
screws.
(8) Apply 12 volt power to the "yellow" and
"brown" antenna leads and test for up and down operation.
FRONT SPEAKER TERMINALS
RADIO SPEAKER REVERBERATOR—MODELS
A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3 , AY-1
The radio speaker reverberator is used to produce
a time delay of .025 to .030 seconds in the radio output to the rear seat speaker. The reverberator does
not cause any time delay in the radio output to the
front speaker. Due to the "time difference" of the radio output between the front and rear speakers an
"echo" is produced which gives the effect of "Stereo"
sound reproduction in the vehicle.
The reverberator consists of the reverberator unit
(mounted in the luggage compartment), the instrument panel switch and the wiring from the switch to
the reverberator unit (Fig. 10). The reverberator is an
independently powered unit and has its voltage supply separate from the voltage supply to the radio.
To operate the reverberator turn the radio "ON"
and tune the radio to the desired station. Pull the instrument panel reverberator switch "out" and then rotate the switch until the desired volume level between
Fig. 7 0 — R e v e r b e r a t o r
Installation
the front and rear speakers is achieved. With the reverberator switch "m" normal fader control action between the front and rear speakers is achieved by rotating the reverberator control knob until the desired
volume level between the two speakers is established.
For service the reverberator unit is divided in two
parts (Fig. 11):
(1) Delay Line. This item cannot be repaired, it
must be serviced as an assembly.
(2) Amplifier Section. This item is serviced using
normal radio trouble shooting procedures.
WINDSHIELD WASHERS—MODELS
AC-1, A C - 2 , A C - 3 , AY-1
Description
The windshield washers are operated by an electric
motor driven pump to which fluid is gravity fed from
a plastic reservoir (Fig. 1). The motor is operated by
depressing the windshield wiper knob or a button located under the instrument panel. The pump assembly is located under the hood below the plastic reservoir. The unit has a permanent magnet type motor
coupled to a gear pump that supplies fluid through
rubber hoses to dual nozzle jets mounted in or on the
fresh air intake grille of the cowl ventilator. The
motor is a permanently lubricated, sealed unit. A circuit breaker mounted inside the pump housing protects the motor in the event of a frozen pump. The
circuit breaker is a serviceable item. The pump and
motor are serviced as an assembly only.
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REVERB UNIT
R5 150K
—rt/W—
CONNECTOR
LUG
VIEW
1)1 AG 6 3 D 4 0 0 5 I A 4 6 - »
BASE
COLLECTOR
CAUTION
"A" LEAD MUST BE CONNECTED TO POSITIVE ( + ) SIDE OF
EMIHER^^COLLECTOR
POWER SUPPLY. UNIT WILL NOT OPERATE AND DAMAGE
TO COMPONENTS WILL RESULT IF CONNECTED OTHERWISE.
2N573 CONN
ON-OFF SW
ON REVERB
CONTROL
SI
REVERB REARSPKR
CLOSED
OPEN
S2
S3
S4
"A"
CLOSED
CLOSED
SHAFT OUT
"B"
OPEN
OPEN
SHAFT IN
REVERB SHAFT POSITION
>
n
NOTES:
n
CAPACITORS - Unless otherwise specified,
m
Values less than one in MF all others in MMF.
;
VOLTAGES - Measured from point indicated
</>
to. ground with a VTVM, + 1 0 % No signal In.
o
INPUT VOLTAGE - 13.2V DC
2
*The exact value to be determined by production process.
m
r
Replace with the same value of the original part.
All switches shown In rear spkr position
>
64x167
Fig. 7 J — R e v e r b e r a t o r Wiring
Diagram
i
fro
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1-22
WINDSHIELD WASHERS—ACCESSORIES
SERVICE PROCEDURES
NOZZLE ADJUSTMENT—MODELS A C - 1 ,
AC-2
A C - 3 (Fig. 2)
r
Adjustment of the nozzle may be made by inserting
a small screwdriver into the cowl opening grille and
bending the nozzle.
Models
(Fig. 3)
Adjustment of the nozzle may be made by using
a screwdriver to rotate the nozzle jets "up" and
"down."
Adjust the nozzles so that the centers of the streams
contact the windshield glass.
NOTE: The oval pattern formed by the stream striking the windshield glass is not "centered" on the
center of the stream. The stream center is toward
(6) Unsolder the circuit breaker lead from the motor terminal.
(7) Remove the circuit breaker and terminal from
the pump and motor bracket.
(8) Install the new circuit breaker and terminal in
the slot in the bracket. Press the insulator firmly in
place.
(9) Solder the bare end of the circuit breaker lead
to the motor terminal using rosin core solder.
(10) Install the pump cover. Carefully bend the retaining tabs in place.
(11) Install the pump.
(12) Connect the hoses to the pump.
(13) Connect the electrical terminal.
(14) Fill the reservoir and test the operation of
the washer system.
the bottom of the oval pattern.
Pump Circuit Breaker
CENTER LINE OF
WINDSHIELD
Replacement
(1) Empty the reservoir.
(2) Disconnect the hoses from the pump.
(3) Disconnect the electrical terminal.
(4) Remove the pump assembly from the vehicle.
(5) Lift up the pump cover retaining tabs and remove the cover.
m
3 INCH
TARGET
AREA
INCHES-
UPPER SPRAY
LOWER SPRAY,
MEASURE D O W N FROM
BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD
MOULDING
Fig. 2—Washer
Aiming
AC-2
ELECTRIC
MOTOR
64x 152 A
and AC-3
Requirements—A-l,
Models
FLUID IN
12 INCHES
CENTER OF^ WINDSHIELD
CIRCUIT
BREAKER
6-V2 INCHES
SPRING STEEL DRIVE
MEASURE D O W N FROM BOTTOM
OF WINDSHIELD MOULDING
64x151
POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT PUMP
NK355
Fig.
Fig. 3—Washer
1—Washer
Motor
and Pump
Assembly
Aiming
Requiremenls—AY-1
Models
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GROUP
2
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
CONfENfS
Page
GENERAL INFORMATION . .
SERVICE D I A G N O S I S
. .
. .
SERVICE PROCEDURES
1
1
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . (Af Rear of M a n u a l )
T I G H T E N I N G REFERENCE . . (At Rear of M a n u a l )
2
GENERAL INFORMATION
A l l ball joints, tie rod ends and the torsion bars at
the front of the rear anchors are effectively sealed
against road splash by tightly fitted balloon type flexible seals. The ball joints and tie rod ends are of the
semi-permanent lubricated type.
Lower ball joints should not be replaced for looseness if the axial end play (Up and Down movement)
is under .050 inch. Looseness of this nature is not
detrimental and will not affect front wheel alignment
or vehicle stability.
The torsion bar rear anchor, on Chrysler Models
only, are rubber isolated from the engine rear support member on a separate crossmember. The front
anchors are part of the lower control arms and provide the means of adjusting the vehicle front height.
The compression type lower ball joints are integral
with the steering knuckle arms.
After the ball joint has been lubricated with specified lubricant, knock off that portion of the lubrication fitting over which the lubrication gun was
installed. A special ball check is installed in the
remaining portion of the fitting to prevent foreign
materials from passing through the fitting.
The tie rod end seals and protectors should be inspected for damage at all oil change periods. The tie
rod end seals and seal protectors are serviced separately.
When re-lubrication of the ball joints and tie rod
ends is required, remove the plugs from the assembly
and install lubrication fittings. After the lubrication
is completed, reinstall the plugs.
NOTE: All service replacement ball joints are
equipped with a "Knock-off" type lubrication fitting.
CAUTION: R U B B E R BUSHINGS S H O U L D NOT B E
L U B R I C A T E D A T A N Y TIME. When replacement
of a bushing is necessary, water may be used to aid
in installation.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
FRONT END N O I S E
Correction
Possible Cause
(a)
Ball joint needs lubrication.
(a) Lubricate ball joint.
(b)
Shock absorber a n d bushings worn or loose.
(b) Replace bushings.
(c)
W o r n strut bushings.
(c) Replace bushing.
(d) Loose struts—Lower control arm bolts a n d nuts,
(d) Tighten all bolts a n d nuts.
Imperial O n l y .
(e) Loose steering g e a r on frame.
(e) Tighten the steering g e a r mounting bolts.
(f)
(f)
W o r n upper control arm bushings.
(g) W o r n lower control arm shaft bushings.
(h) W o r n upper ball joint.
(h) Replace ball joint.
(i)
W o r n lower ball joint,
(i)
Replace ball joint,
(j)
W o r n tie rod ends.
(j)
R e p l a c e tie rod e n d .
(k)
Loose or worn front wheel bearings.
(k) Adjust or replace bearings a s necessary.
(I)
Steering kunckle arm contacting the lower con-
(I)
trol arm or strut.
INSTABILITY
Replace worn bushings.
(g) R e p l a c e worn bushings.
Smooth off the contacting a r e a a n d lubricate
with a water resistant g r e a s e .
(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.
(a) Inflate tires to correct pressure.
(b) Loose w h e e l bearings.
(b) Adjust wheel b e a r i n g .
(c)
Improper steering cross shaft adjustment.
(c) Adjust steering cross shaft.
(d) Steering g e a r not centered.
(d) Adjust steering g e a r .
(e) W o r n idler arm bushing.
(e) R e p l a c e bushing.
(f)
Loose or excessively worn front strut bushings.
(g) W e a k or broken rear spring.
(h) Incorrect front wheel alignment.
0)
Shock absorber inoperative.
(f)
R e p l a c e bushings.
(g) Replace spring.
(h) Measure a n d adjust front wheel alignment.
(i)
Replace shock absorber.
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2-2
.FRONT SUSPENSION A N D STEERING LINKAGE-
HARD STEERING
Correction
Possible C a u s e
Condition
(a) Ball joints—require lubrication.
(a) Lubricate ball joints.
(b)
(b) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.
Low or uneven tire pressure.
(c) Low power steering fluid level.
(c) Fill pump reservoir to correct level.
(d) Lack of assist of power steering system.
(d) Inspect, test, a n d service the power steering
(e)
(e) Replace bent parts and adjust the front wheel
pump a n d gear as required.
Incorrect front wheel alignment
(particularly
alignment.
caster) resulting from:
(a) Upper control arm bent.
(b) Lower control arm bent.
(c) Steering knuckle or steering knuckle arm
bent.
(f)
(f)
Steering gear low on lubricant.
Fill gear to correct level.
(g) Steering gear not adjusted.
(g) Adjust steering gear.
(h) Idler arm binding.
(h) Free-up idler arm.
C A R PULLS T O
(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressure.
O N E SIDE
(b) Front brake dragging.
(b) Adjust brakes.
(c) G r e a s e , lubricant or brake fluid leaking onto
(c) Replace brake shoe a n d lining as necessary
a n d stop all leaks.
brake lining.
(d) Loose or excessively worn strut bushings.
(d) Tighten or replace strut bushings.
(e) Power steering control valve out of adjustment.
(e) Adjust steering gear control valve.
(f)
(f)
Incorrect front wheel alignment
(particularly
Adjust front wheel alignment.
camber).
(g) Replace spring.
(g) Broken or weak rear spring.
EXCESSIVE PLAY
(a) Worn or loose front wheel bearings.
(a) Adjust or replace wheel bearings as necessary.
IN STEERING
(b) Incorrect steering gear adjustment.
(b) Adjust steering gear.
(c) Loose steering gear to frame mounting bolts.
(c) Tighten steering gear to frame bolts.
(d) Worn ball joints or tie rod.
(d) Replace ball joints or tie rods as necessary.
(e) Worn steering gear parts.
(e) Replace worn steering gear parts and adjust
(f)
(f)
as necessary.
Worn upper control arm ball joints.
Replace ball joints.
(g) Worn lower control arm ball joints.
(g) Replace ball joints.
FRONT WHEEL
(a) Tire, wheel out of balance.
(a) Balance wheel a n d tire assembly.
SHIMMY
(b)
Uneven tire wear, or excessively worn tires.
(b) Rotate or replace tires as necessary.
(c) Replace or adjust wheel bearings as necessary.
(c) Worn or loose wheel bearings.
(d) Worn tie rod ends.
(d) Replace tie rod ends.
(e) Strut mounting bushings loose or worn.
(e) Replace strut mounting bushings.
(f)
(f)
Incorrect front wheel alignment
(particularly
Adjust front wheel alignment.
caster).
(g) Worn or loose upper control arm ball joints.
(g) Inspect ball joints and replace where required.
Tighten to specifications.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
PREPARATION FOR
MEASURING WHEEL ALIGNMENT
The method of measuring alignment will vary depending on the type of equipment being used. The
instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the
equipment should always be followed, however, the
specifications as recommended by Chrysler Corporation should always be followed.
All measurements and adjustments should be made
in the following order:
Front Suspension Height
Caster and Camber
Toe-In
Steering Axis Inclination
Toe-Out on Turns
The measurement of steering axis inclination and
toe-out on turns is valuable in determining if parts
are bent, or damaged. Bent or damaged suspension
and steering linkage parts must be replaced. Do not
attempt to modify any of these parts by heating and
bending. When replacements of this kind are made,
it is important that other front end parts are inspected and front wheels aligned.
Before any attempt is made to measure or correct
caster, camber and toe-in, the following preliminary
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F I O N T SUSPENSION A N D STEERING L I N K A G E
inspections and necessary corrections must be made
on those parts which influence the steering of the
vehicle.
(1) Inflate tires to recommended pressure. A l l tires
should be the same size, in good condition and have
equal wear. Note the type of wear to aid in diagnosing
(Group 22).
(2) Inspect the suspension and steering linkage
pivot points for excessive looseness; rear springs for
proper tightness of " U " bolts and height differential
between left and right sides of vehicle. The vehicle
should be on a level floor or alignment rack and
should have a full fuel tank with no luggage or passenger load.
(3) Adjust the front wheel bearings (Group 22),
Measure the front wheel and tire assembly runout
(Follow Equipment Manufacturers Instructions).
(4) To obtain accurate readings, the vehicle should
be jounced in the following manner just prior to taking each measurement (Height—Caster—Camber and
Toe-In): Grasp the bumpers at the center (rear
bumper first) and jounce the vehicle up and down
several times. Release the bumpers on the down cycle
after jouncing both rear and front of car an equal
number of times.
HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
The front suspension heights can be measured by
using special height gauges or by measuring the distances from "given" points of the suspension system
to the floor with a scale. When using special height
gauges follow the recommendations of the manufacturer, however, always use the specifications of the
Chrysler Motors Corporation.
2-3
(1) Clean all foreign material from the bottom of
the lower ball joint assemblies and from the bottom
of the lower control arm bushing housings between
the flanges of the arms.
(2) Jounce the vehicle several times releasing it on
the downward motion.
(3) On Imperial Models, measure the distance from
the lowest point of one of the lower control arm bushing housings to the floor (measurement A) and from
the lowest point of the flat portion on the bottom of
the lower ball joint on the same side (measurement
B) to the floor (Fig. 1). Measure only one side at a
time.
(4) On Chrysler Models, measure the distance from
the lowest point of one of the adjusting blades to the
floor (measurement A) and from the lowest point of
one of the steering knuckle arm to the floor (measurement B) (Fig. 2).
(5) Refer to specifications for the differential between measurement A and B.
(6) Measure the other side i n the same manner.
The difference from side to side should be no more
than V% inch.
(7) Adjust i f necessary by turning in the torsion
bar adjusting bolt to increase the height and backing
off the bolt to decrease the height.
(8) After each adjustment, jounce the vehicle before
rechecking measurements. Both sides should be measured even though only one side has been adjusted.
FRONT W H E E L A L I G N M E N T
C a m b e r - L e f t W h e e l + VA° to + % ° (Preferred
1
+Vi°)
Right W h e e l 0 ° to + / ° (Preferred +
2
VA°)
Caster—Power Steering + VA° to + 1 ! 4 °
M a n u a l Steering 0 ° to — 1 °
Without
Using Special
Fools
T o e - i n — 3 / 3 2 to 5 / 3 2 inch (Preferred Ve
Front suspension heights must be held to specifications for a satisfactory ride, correct appearance, proper front wheel alignment and reduced tire wear.
The heights should only be measured when the
vehicle has the recommended tire pressures, a full
tank of fuel, no passenger load and is on a level floor.
inch)
Front suspension alignment settings must be held
to specifications to hold tire wear to a minimum and
i S
f
ADJUSTING
BLADE
BALL JOINT
HOUSING
KP267B
Fig.
I — M e a s u r i n g Front
Suspension
Heights
(Imperial)
Fig. 2—Measuring
Front
Suspension
(Chrysler)
MyMopar.com
Heights
2-4
FRONT SUSPENSION A N D STEERING LINKAGE
to maintain steering ease and handling of the vehicle.
Any parts of the front suspension system should
be replaced if they are found to be bent. Do not attempt to straighten any bent part.
Camber
and Caster
(1) Prepare the vehicle for measuring wheel alignment.
(2) Remove all foreign material from the exposed
threads of the cam adjusting bolts.
(3) Record the initial camber and caster readings
before loosening the cam bolt nuts.
(4) Camber settings should be held as close as possible to the "preferred" setting. Caster should be held
as nearly equal as possible on both wheels. Tighten
the cam bolt nuts 65 foot-pounds after adjusting the
wheel alignment.
Fig. 3—Torsion
Bar and Rubber
Isolator
(Chrysler)
Toe-in 3 / 3 2 to 5 / 3 2 inch
(Preferred
I /8 inch)
The toe setting should be the final operation of the
front wheel alignment adjustments. The front wheels
must be in a straight ahead position. Follow the
equipment manufacturers procedure. The steering
wheel should be centered during this operation.
Turning both tie rod sleeves will "center" the steering wheel. If the steering wheel was centered, make
the toe-in adjustment by turning both sleeves an
equal amount. Be sure and tighten the clamp bolt
nuts 15 foot-pounds. Make sure the bolts are on the
bottom, otherwise interference with the torsion bars
in jounce may result.
from the anchor.
(5) On Chrysler Models slide the torsion bar out
through the rear of the anchor.
Inspection
(1) Before installing the torsion bar, inspect the
adjusting bolt, swivel and torsion bar balloon seal for
damage and replace as necesasry.
(2) Inspect the torsion bar for scores and nicks.
Dress down all scratches and nicks to remove the
sharp edges, then paint the repaired area with a rust
preventative.
Installation
(1) Apply a liberal coating of multi-mileage lubriTORSION BARS
The torsion bars are not interchangeable side for
side. The bars will be indicated as either right or left
by an "R" or " L " (right or left hand side) stamped on
the end of the bars.
CAUTION: If the vehicle is to be raised on a hoist,
make sure it is supported so that the front suspension is in full rebound (under no load).
Removal
(1) Place a jack under the center of the front crossmember and raise the vehicle off the floor, so the
front suspension is in full rebound (under no load).
(2) Release all load from the torsion bar by turning
the anchor adjusting bolts (Figs. 3 and 4) counterclockwise. Remove the adjusting bolt and swivel.
(3) Remove the plastic seal and lock ring from the
rear anchor (Fig. 4).
NOTE: In some instances it may be necessary to use
Tool C-3728 to aid in removing the torsion bar.
(4) On Imperial Models slide the torsion bar toward the rear of the vehicle sufficiently to disengage
the forward end from the lower control arm. Slide
the torsion bar forward and down, disengaging it
Fig. 4—Torsion Bar Rear
Support
(Imperial)
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FRONT SUSPENSION A N D STEERING L I N K A G E
cant (NO. 2298947) around each end of the torsion bar.
The rear end of the torsion bar should be coated
equal to the depth of the anchor hub socket.
(2) Install the torsion bar into the rear anchor.
(3) Slide the balloon seal over the torsion bar
(cupped side toward rear anchor).
(4) On Imperial Models turn the torsion bar until
the anchor end is positioned approximately 120 degrees (eight o'clock or four o'clock position) down
from the frame and engage the front end of the bar
in the hex opening of the lower control arm. I f the
anchor end is not in the position just described when
installing the torsion bar, it will be impossible to adjust the front suspension to the correct height.
(5) On Chrysler Models, slide the torsion bar into
the hex opening in the control arm.
(6) Install the lock ring, making sure it is seated in
its groove.
(7) Pack the annular opening in the rear anchor
completely full of multi-mileage lubricant. Position
the lip of the balloon seal in the groove in the anchor
hub. Install the plastic seal into the rear anchor.
(8) Install the adjusting bolt, seat and swivel.
(9) On Imperial Models, turn the adjusting bolt
clockwise until approximately 1 inch of threads are
showing out of the swivel. This is an approximate
setting and is to be used only as a starting point when
adjusting for correct height. This setting is also necessary to place a load on the torsion bar before lowering the vehicle to the floor.
(10) On Chrysler Models, place a load on the torsion bar by turning the adjusting bolt clockwise.
(11) Lower the vehicle to the floor, then measure
and adjust the height as required.
TORSION BAR RUBBER ISOLATOR
A N D CROSSMEMBER
(Chrysler Models Only)
Removal
2-5
rear support crossmember bolts and install the nuts.
Tighten the nuts 30 foot-pounds.
(2) Position the torsion bar anchor crossmember
over the hex ends of the torsion bars and the rubber
isolator attaching bolts. Install the nuts and tighten to
50 foot-pounds.
(3) Install the lock rings in the rear anchors.
(4) Place a load on the torsion bars by turning the
adjusting bolts clockwise.
(5) Lower the car and adjust the front suspension
heights.
STEERING KNUCKLES
Removal
(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as
near to the wheel as possible. Remove the wheel, tire,
and drum. Be sure the brake shoes are covered to
prevent dirt or grease from soiling the lining.
(2) Remove the cotter pins, nuts and lockwashers,
attaching the steering knuckle arm and brake support
assembly to the steering knuckle. Remove the steering knuckle arm and brake support assembly from
the steering knuckle as an assembly but leaving the
brake hose attached. Do not allow the assembly to
hang by the brake hose.
(3) Remove the upper ball joint stud from the
steering knuckle. On Imperial Models remove the lower ball joint stud. Remove the steering knuckle.
Installation
(1) Install the upper and lower ball joint studs. Install the lock washer and nuts. Tighten the upper ball
joint stud nut 100 foot-pounds and the lower ball
joint stud nut (Imperial Only) 115 foot-pounds. Install
the cotter pin.
(2) Slide the brake support assembly over the steering knuckle and into position. Install the lockwashers
(Fig. 3)
(1) Raise the vehicle so the front suspension is in
full rebound.
(2) Remove all load from the torsion bars by turning the adjusting bolts counterclockwise.
(3) Remove the lock rings from the rear anchors.
(4) Remove the nuts, two each side, attaching the
torsion bar rear anchor crossmember to the isolators.
(5) Remove the crossmember from the torsion
bars.
(6) Remove the nuts attaching the rubber isolator
assembly to the engine rear support crossmember and
remove the isolator assembly.
Installation
(Fig. 3)
The rubber isolator and mounting bracket is serviced as an assembly only.
(1) Position the isolator assembly on the engine
Fig.
5—Steering
Linkage
(Disassembled)
(Chrysler)
MyMopar.com
2-6
FRONT SUSPENSION A N D STEERING LINKAGE
Fig. 5—Steering
Linkage
(Installed)
(Chrysler)
and nuts on the upper rear and lower front bolts.
(3) Install the upper front and lower rear bolts
through the brake support and steering knuckle. Position the steering arm over the bolts. Install the lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the steering knuckle to
'brake support bolts 55 foot-pounds and the steering
knuckle to steering knuckle arm bolts 80 foot-pounds.
Install the cotter pins.
(4) Remove the covering from the brake shoes. Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly and adjust
the front wheel bearings (Group 22).
NK385
Fig.
7—Removing
Outer
Tie Rod End
(Imperial)
steering knuckle arm. (Fig. 7) or center link by
methods other than using Tool C-3894 (Imperial),
Tool C-3742 (Chrysler) may damage the tie rod end
seals.
(1) Remove the tie rod ends from the steering
knuckle arms. Use care not to damage the seals.
STEERING LINKAGE (Figs. 5 and 6)
Removal
When removing the tie rod ends, idler arm or steering gear arm, all seals should be closely inspected for
wear or damage.
Damaged seals necessitate removal of the seal and
inspecting the tie rod assembly end at the throat
opening. If parts have not lost all the grease, or are
not contaminated, worn, or rusted, repiace the seal,
otherwise a new complete tie rod end assembly should
be installed. Lubricate the tie rod end assembly.
CAUTION: Removal of the tie rod ends from the
(2)
(3)
(4)
ber.
(5)
link.
Remove the inner tie rod ends from the link.
Remove the idler arm stud from the link.
Remove the idler arm stud from the crossmemRemove the steering gear arm stud from the
Installation
Replace all tie rod and steering arm assemblies that
are damaged or excessively worn. Damaged seals are
replaceable.
(1) Insert the idler arm and bushing assembly into
the bracket (Imperial Models) using care not to damage the bushing. Insert the bolt and tighten to 80
foot-pounds. On Chrysler Models, install the idler arm
stud in the crossmember bracket and tighten the nut
45 foot-pounds.
(2) Insert the center link over the idler arm and
steering arm studs and tighten the nuts to 40 footpounds. Insert the cotter pins.
(3) Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckle arms. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds. Slide the
stone protectors into position and install the cotter
pins.
(4) Measure and adjust the front wheel toe-in.
S W A Y BAR (Fig J ) ...
Removal
Fig. 6—Steering
Linkage
(Disassembled)
(Imperial)
(1) Remove the two sway bar link retaining nuts
and concave retainers.
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FRONT S U S P E N S I O N A N D STEERING L I N K A G E
R e m o v a l (Imperial
2-7
Models)
(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm and
raise the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel, tire and drum assembly and
the brake support assembly.
(3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint and
nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over the upper stud until the
tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded
portion of the tool locking it securely against the
lower stud (Fig. 9). Spread the tool enough to place
the lower stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the
stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the
knuckle with the tool alone.
(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint
from the knuckle.
(5) Using Tool C-3561 remove the ball joint from
the lower control arm.
The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the
ball joint is removed.
Fig. 8 — S w a y Bar Assembly
(Chrysler)
(2) Remove the two sway bar cushion retaining
nuts, lockwashers, straps, and bolts, (one to each
strut). Slide the sway bar out through the control arm
struts and away from the vehicle. The sway bar cushions are not serviced separately. If replacement is
necessary, install a new sway bar assembly. Remove
the lower concave retainers.
(3) Remove the sway bar link insulating bushings
from the frame bracket. If the bushings are worn or
deteriorated, install new bushings as required.
Installation
(1) Dip the sway bar link bushings in water and
install in the opening in the frame bracket, using a
twisting motion. When installed properly, the groove
in the bushing will index with opening in the frame
bracket.
(2) Thread the sway bar into position over the top
of the lower control arm struts.
(3) Engage the sway bar cushion housing with the
struts and install straps, bolts, lockwashers and nuts.
Tighten to 30 foot-pounds.
(4) Install the retainers over the ends of the links
(concave side up), then slide the links up through the
bushings. Install the retainers (concave side down),
over the ends of the links and down on the bushings.
Install the nuts and tighten to 100 inch-pounds.
Installation (Imperial
Models)
(1) When installing the new ball joint, it is very
important that the ball joint threads properly engage
those of the control arm. Screw the ball joint into the
control arm as far as possible by hand.
(2) Using Tool C-3561, tighten the ball joint assembly to a minimum of 150 foot-pounds until seated
in the control arm.
(3) Position the new ball joint seal on the ball joint
body and using Tool C-3867 install the seals. To facilitate installation of the seal, the ball joint stud
should be perpendicular to the ball joint body.
(4) Install the brake support assembly. Tighten the
brake support bolts to 55 foot-pounds and the knuckle
arm bolts to 80 foot-pounds.
(5) Position the stud in the steering knuckle, and
install the washer and nut. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds
L O W E R BALL J O I N T S
The lower ball joints should not be replaced for
looseness if the axial end play (up and down movement) is under .050 inch. Looseness of this nature is
normal and will not affect front wheel alignment or
vehicle stability. The lower ball joints on Chrysler
Models are integral with the steering knuckle arms.
Fig. 9 — R e m o v i n g Lower
Ball
Joint
Stud
(Imperial)
MyMopar.com
2-8
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
and install the cotter pin.
(6) Lubricate the ball joint with the specified lubricant.
(7) Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly and
adjust the front wheel bearing (Group 22).
Removal (Chrysler
Models)
(1) Remove the upper control arm rebound bumper.
(2) Raise the vehicle so the front suspension is in
full rebound. Remove all load from the torsion bar by
turning the adjusting bolt counterclockwise.
(3) Remove the wheel, tire and drum as an assembly.
(4) Remove the two lower bolts from the brake
support attaching the steering arm and ball joint assembly to the steering knuckle.
(5) Remove the tie rod end from the steering
knuckle arm using Tool C-3742. Use care not to damage the seal.
(6) Using Tool C-3964 remove the ball joint stud
from the lower control arm (Fig. 10) and remove the
steering arm and ball joint assembly.
Installation (Chrysler
Models)
(1) Place a new seal over the ball joint stud (if necessary) and press the seal fully down on the ball joint
housing until it is securely locked in position.
(2) Position the steering arm and ball joint assembly on the steering knuckle and install the two mounting bolts. Tighten the nuts 80 foot-pounds.
(3) Insert the ball joint stud into the lower control
arm.
(4) Install the stud retaining nut and tighten to 115
foot-pounds. Install the cotter pin and lubricate the
ball joint.
(5) Inspect the tie rod end seal for damage and replace if damaged. Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle arm and tighten the nut 40 foot-pounds.
Slide the tie rod end seal protector over the nut and
Fig. 10—Removing Lower 6a//
Joint
Stud
(Chrysler)
Fig.
11—-Removing
Upper
Ball Joint
Stud
(Imperial)
install the cotter pin.
(6) Place a load on the torsion bar by turning the
adjusting bolt clockwise.
(7) Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly and
adjust the front wheel bearing (Group 22).
(8) Lower the vehicle to the floor and install the
upper control arm rebound bumper. Tighten to 200
inch-pounds.
(9) Measure the front suspension height and adjust
if necessary.
(10) Measure the front wheel alignment and adjust
if necessary.
UPPER BALL JOINTS
Removal
(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as
close to the wheel as possible. Raise the wheel off the
floor.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
F/g. 7 2 — R e m o v i n g Upper
Ball Joint
Stud
(Chrysler)
MyMopar.com
F I O N T SUSPENSION A N D STEERING L I N K A G E
(3) On Imperial Models, remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 down over
the lower stud until the tool rests on the steering
knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the upper stud (Fig. 11). Spread
the tool enough to place the upper stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a
hammer to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force
the stud out of the knuckle with the tool alone.
(4) Remove the tool, then disengage the ball joint
from the knuckle.
(5) On Chrysler Models, when removing the upper
ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Tool
C-3964 (Fig. 12) make sure the bottom portion of the
tool is positioned between the steering knuckle and
the seal, otherwise damage to the seal will result.
(6) Using Tool C-3560 for Chrysler Models and
Tool C-3561 for Imperial Models (Fig. 13) unscrew the
ball joint from the upper control arm.
The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the
ball joint is removed.
Installation
When installing a new ball joint, it is very important that the ball joint threads properly engage those
of the control arm.
(1) Screw the ball joint squarely into the control
arm as far as possible by hand.
(2) Using Tool C-3560 (Chrysler Models) or C-3561
(Imperial Models) tighten until the ball joint housing
is seated on the control arm. Tighten to a minimum
of 125 foot-pounds on Chrysler Models and 150 footpounds on Imperial Models.
(3) Position the new ball joint seal on the ball joint
body using Tool C-3867 on Imperial Models and install the seals. On Chrysler Models, install the seal on
the ball joint by hand, making sure it is fully seated
on the housing. To facilitate installation of the seal
the ball joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball
joint body.
-TOOL
-UPPER C O N T R O L A R M
STEERING K N U C K L E
2-9
(4) Position the stud in the steering knuckle. Install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut on Chrysler
Models 100 foot-pounds and on Imperial Models 135
foot-pounds. Install the cotter pin and lubricate the
ball joint.
(5) Install the wheel and tire and adjust the front
wheel bearing (Group 22).
LOWER C O N T R O L A R M A N D SHAFT
Removal
(Imperial
-
Models)
(1) Remove the torsion bar.
(2) Remove the wheel, tire and drum assembly. Remove the brake support assembly.
(3) Disconnect the shock absorber at the lower control arm bracket then push the shock absorber up
into the frame out of the way.
(4) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts attaching the strut to the lower control arm.
(5) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud
nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over the upper stud until the
tool rests on the steering knuckle. Turn the threaded
portion of the tool locking it securely against the
lower stud (Fig. 9). Spread the tool enough to place
the lower stud under pressure, then strike the steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen the
stud. Do not attempt to force the stud out of the
knuckle with the tool alone.
(6) Remove the tool, and disengage the ball joint
from the knuckle.
(7) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer attaching the lower control arm pivot shaft to the frame.
(8) Tap the end of the shaft (a tapered fit in front
crossmember) with a "soft end" hammer to aid in removal of the shaft from the crossmember.
(9) Remove the lower control arm and shaft as an
assembly.
Disassembly
(Imperial
Models)
(1) Place the lower control arm in an arbor press
(with torsion bar hex opening up). Press the shaft and
bushing out of the control arm, using a brass drift.
(2) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer from
the end of the shaft, and remove the bushing from
the shaft.
(3) Using Tool C-3561 unscrew the ball joint from
the lower control arm. The ball joint balloon type
seal will come off as the ball joint is removed.
/
Assembly
/
IM If
BALL J O I N T
KP73
Fig. ?3™Remov/ng
the
QafS J@,?ef
(Imperial)
(Imperial
Models)
(1) Position the new bushing over the shaft (flange
end first) and seat on the shoulder of the shaft. Install
the washer and nut and tighten to 100 foot-pounds.
(Hold shaft securely in a vise with protector jaws). Install the cotter pin.
(2) Press the lower control arm shaft and bushing
into the lower control arm with an arbor press, or
drive into place using Tool C-3557 and a hammer.
MyMopar.com
2-10
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
(3) Press until the flanged position of the bushing
is seated beyond the locking groove.
(4) Install the ball joint into the new arm using
Tool C-3561.
(5) Tighten to a minimum of 150 foot-pounds until
the ball joint is seated (the ball joint will cut threads
into the new arm during tightening operation).
Installation
(Imperial
Models)
(1) Position the control arm assembly in the frame
crossmember in approximate operating position. Install the washer and nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN the nut
until the full weight of the vehicle is on the wheels.
(2) Position the new ball joint balloon type seal on
the ball joint body and using Tool C-3867 install the
seals. To facilitate installation of the seal the ball
joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint
body. Lubricate the ball joint.
(3) Install the brake support assembly. Tighten
brake support bolts 55 foot-pounds and the knuckle
arm bolts 80 foot-pounds.
(4) Position the stud in the steering knuckle. Install
the washer and nut. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds and
install the cotter pin.
(5) Connect the shock absorber to the control arm
and tighten the nut 55 foot-pounds.
(6) Position the strut on the lower control arm, install the bolts, washers and nuts and tighten to 100
foot-pounds. Install the sway bar on the strut. Tighten
the nuts 50 foot-pounds.
(7) Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly and
adjust the front wheel bearing (Group 22).
(8) Install the torsion bar.
(9) Tighten the lower control arm shaft nut 200
foot-pounds and install the cotter pin.
(10) Lower the vehicle to the floor, then measure
and adjust the suspension heights and wheel alignment as necessary.
Removal (Chrysler
Models)
(1) Remove the torsion bar from the lower control
arm.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and slide the tie rod end
seal protector up the steering knuckle arm. Remove
the tie rod end from the steering knuckle arm using
Tool C-3964 or Tool C-3742. Use care not to damage
Fig. 74—Strut Bushing
Assembly
(Chrysler)
(6) Remove the strut front nut and bushing retainer.
(7) Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer from
the lower control arm pivot shaft.
(8) Tap the end of the lower control arm shaft with
a "soft end" hammer, to aid in removal of the shaft
from the crossmember, and remove the lower control
arm, shaft and strut as an assembly.
(9) Remove the strut bushings (Fig. 14) from the
crossmember.
(10) Remove the strut bushing inner retainer from
the strut.
Disassembly
(Chrysler
Models)
(1) Place the strut portion of the control arm assembly in a vise and remove the nut from the strut.
(2) Remove the strut from the control arm.
(3) Remove the jounce bumper, torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel from the control arm.
(4) Place the control arm assembly in an arbor
press with the torsion bar hex opening up and with a
support under the outer edge of the control arm (Fig.
15).
(5) Place a brass drift into the hex opening and
press the shaft out of the control arm (Fig. 15). The
bushing inner shell will remain on the shaft.
(6) Remove the bushing inner shell from the pivot
shaft.
the seal.
(3) Remove the sway bar to strut attaching straps.
(4) Remove the steering knuckle arm to brake support bolts and remove the steering knuckle arm.
Move the brake support assembly out of the way. Do
not allow the brake support to hang by the brake
hose.
(5) Remove the ball joint stud from the lower control arm using Tool C-3964 (Fig. 10). The bottom portion of the tool must be positioned between the seal
and the control arm to avoid seal damage.
Fig. 75—Removing
the Pivot
Shaft
(Chrysler)
MyMopar.com
FRONT SUSPENSION A N D STEERING L I N K A G E
(7) Remove the rubber portion of the bushing from
the control arm.
(8) Remove the bushing outer shell by cutting with
a chisel. Use care not to cut into the control arm.
Assembly
(Chrysler
Models)
(1) Position the new bushing on the shaft, flange
end of bushing first, and seat the bushing on the
shoulder of the shaft.
(2) Press the shaft and bushing assembly into the
control arm using Tool C-3556 and an arbor press.
In some instances, it may be necessary to reduce the
shoulder diameter of the shaft to facilitate the use
of Tool C-3556.
(3) Install the torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel.
(4) Install the jounce bumper on the control arm
and tighten the nut 200 inch-pounds.
(5) Position the strut in the control arm and tighten
the nut 110 foot-pounds.
Installation
(Chrysler
(8) Tighten the upper bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds and
the lower bolt nuts 100 foot-pounds.
(9) Inspect the tie rod for damage. Connect the
tie rod end to the steering knuckle arm and tighten
the nut 40 foot-pounds. Slide the tie rod end seal protector over the tie rod end and install the cotter pin.
(10) Connect the shock absorber to the control arm
and tighten the nut 55 foot-pounds.
(11) Install the torsion bar.
(12) Install the wheel, tire and drum assembly and
adjust the front wheel bearings (Group 22).
(13) Lower the vehicle to the floor and tighten the
strut nut, at the crossmember, 40 foot-pounds.
(14) Tighten the lower control arm shaft nut 180
foot-pounds and install the cotter pin.
(15) Measure and adjust the front suspension
height and wheel alignment as necessary.
LOWER C O N T R O L A R M STRUT
Removal
Models)
(1) Install the strut inner bushing half (Fig. 14) in
the crossmember.
(2) Place the strut bushing inner retainer on the
strut and position the control arm, shaft and strut
assembly into the crossmember.
(3) Install the outer strut bushing half, sleeve and
retainer. Install the nut finger tight only.
(4) Install the control arm pivot shaft washer and
nut finger tight only.
(5) Position the lower ball joint stud into the control arm. Tighten the nut 115 foot-pounds and install
the cotter pin.
(6) Position the brake support on the steering
knuckle and install the two upper bolts and nuts finger tight only.
(7) Position the steering knuckle arm on the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts and nuts
finger tight only.
(Chrysler
16—Strut
Bushing
(Imperial)
Models)
(1) Remove the lower control arm, shaft and strut
as an assembly.
(2) Remove the nut holding the strut to the control
arm and remove the strut from the control arm.
(3) Inspect the strut bushings (Fig. 14).
Installation
(Chrysler
Models)
(1) Install new strut bushings if necessary.
(2) Position the strut into the control arm and
tighten the retaining nut 100 foot-pounds.
(3) Install the control arm, shaft and strut assembly.
Removal
(Imperial
Models)
(1) Remove the nuts, lockwashers, and bolts that
attach the sway bar bushing housings to the struts,
disconnect the sway bar from the struts.
(2) Remove the strut to lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts.
(3) Remove the nut and bushing retainer (Fig. 16)
from the forward end of the strut at the crossmember.
(4) Slide the strut and inner bushing retainer from
the bushing in the frame.
(5) Using a screwdriver, pry the bushing out of the
front of the frame.
Installation
Fig.
2-11
(Imperial
Models)
(1) Dip the new bushing in water and with the tapered portion toward the rear of the vehicle, install
the bushing in the opening in the frame using a twisting motion (and/or hammer) until the groove in the
bushing indexes properly with the frame.
(2) With the cupped side out, slide the washer over
the threaded end of the strut. Push the strut through
the bushing in the frame, position the outer washer
over the end of the strut (cupped side in) and install
the nut.
MyMopar.com
2-12
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
(3) Tighten the nut sufficiently to install the strut
to the lower control arm mounting bolts. Install the
bolts, lockwashers and nuts, and tighten to 100 footpounds.
(4) Tighten the nut on the forward end of the strut
to 40 foot-pounds torque with the full weight of the
vehicle on the wheels.
(5) Install the sway bar.
(6) Adjust the front wheel alignment.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
Removal
(1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as
close to the wheel as possible and raise the vehicle
until the front wheel clears the floor.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) On Imperial Models, remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide the Tool C-3564 down over
the lower stud until the tool rests on the steering
knuckle. Turn the threaded portion of the tool locking it securely against the upper stud (Fig. 11). Spread
the tool enough to place the upper stud under pressure then strike the knuckle sharply with a hammer
to loosen the stud. Do not attempt to force the stud
out of the knuckle with the tool alone. Remove the
tool, then disengage the ball joint from the knuckle.
(4) On Chrysler Models, remove the upper ball joint
stud using Tool C-3964 (Fig. 12).
(5) Remove the nuts, lockwashers, cams and cam
bolts attaching the upper control arm bushings to the
front and rear support. Lift the upper control arm up
and away from the support.
Disassembly
(1) Remove the ball joint using Tool C-3560 for
Chrysler Models or Tool C-3561 for Imperial Models.
The ball joint balloon type seal will come off as the
ball joint is removed.
(2) Assemble Tool C-3962, using adapter SP-3953
(Chrysler Models) Tool C-3710, using adapter SP-3088
(Imperial Models) over the bushing and press the
bushing out of the arm (from inside out) (Fig. 17). Be
Fig.
18—Installing
Upper
Control
Arm Bushing
(Chrysler)
sure the control arm is firmly supported if a hammer
and drift is used in place of the tool.
Assembly
NOTE: When installing the new bushings, be sure
the control arm is supported squarely at the point
where the bushing is being pressed in. Do not use
oil or grease to aid in installation.
(1) Position the flange end of the new bushing in
Tool C-3962 (Chrysler Models), Tool C-3710 (Imperial
Models).
(2) Support the control arm squarely and press the
bushings into the control arm (from outside) until the
tapered portion of the bushing seats on the arm (Fig.
18).
(3) Thread the ball joint into the arm using Tool
C-3560 for Chrysler Models or Tool C-3561 for Imperial Models.
(4) Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds on
Chrysler Models and 150 foot-pounds on Imperial
Models until seated. The ball joint will cut threads into
a new arm during the tightening operation.
Installation
(1) Slide the upper control arm into position. Install the cam bolts, cams, washers and nuts. Tighten
the nuts 65 foot-pounds after adjusting the front
wheel alignment.
(2) Position the new ball joint seal on the ball joint
body, and using Tool C-3867 for Imperial Models, install the seals. On Chrysler Models press the seal on
by .hand making sure it is seated fully down on the
housing. To facilitate installation of the seal the ball
joint stud should be perpendicular to the ball joint
Fig. 17—Removing
Upper
Control
Arm Bushing
(Chrysler)
•
body. Lubricate the ball joint.
(3) Position the stud in the steering knuckle and
install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut 100 footpounds on Chrysler Models and 135 foot-pounds on
Imperial Models. Install the cotter pin.
(4) Install the wheel and tire and adjust the front
wheel bearing (Group 22).
(5) Adjust the front wheel alignment and suspension height.
MyMopar.com
GROUP 3
REAR AXLE
CONTENTS
Page
DESCRIPTION
Page
1
SURE GRIP DIFFERENTIAL .
SERVICE D I A G N O S I S
1
SPECIFICATIONS A N D
SERVICE PROCEDURES
1
Description
The rear axle assembly is a semi-floating type and
may be divided into four subassemblies; axle drive
shafts with related parts, differential with drive gear,
T I G H T E N I N G REFERENCE
.
15
(In Back of Manual)
drive pinion with carrier, and the axle housing. It is
not necessary to remove the entire assembly to service
any of the above parts with the exception of the axle
housing itself. (Fig. 1).
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
REAR AXLES
REAR AXLE N O I S E
(a) W h e e l loose on a x l e drum.
(a) Tighten wheel in sequence outline in " W h e e l s
(b) W o r n drum or worn a x l e shaft key w a y s .
(b) R e p l a c e drum or a x l e shaft a s necessary.
(c) W h e e l hub bolts loose.
Brinelled or scored wheel b e a r i n g s .
(c) Tighten bolts to correct torque.
a n d Tires."
(d)
(d) R e p l a c e wheel bearings.
(e) Insufficient lubrication.
(e) A d d the specified lubricant a s required.
(f)
Bent a x l e shaft or wheel a n d hub.
(f)
(9)
Lubricant level low.
(g) A d d lubricant a s required.
R e p l a c e w h e e l , hub or drum a s necessary.
(h) End p l a y in drive pinion bearing.
(h) Measure a n d adjust e n d p l a y .
(0
(i)
Excessive g e a r lash between drive g e a r a n d
M e a s u r e a n d adjust g e a r lash.
pinion.
(i)
Loose drive pinion companion flange nut.
(j)
Tighten flange nut to 240 (min.)
foot-pounds
torque.
00
Damaged gears.
(k)
R e p l a c e g e a r s a s required.
O V E R - H E A T I N G O F THE
(a) Lubricant level too low.
(a) A d d the specified lubricant a s required.
A X L E UNIT
(b) Bearing adjusted too tightly.
(b) Adjust bearings correctly.
(c) Excessive w e a r in gears.
(c) R e p l a c e excessively worn g e a r s .
L O S S O F LUBRICANT
(a) Lubricant level too high.
(a) Remove excessive lubricant.
(b) Improper type lubricant.
(b) Remove lubricant a n d r e p l a c e with the specified type.
"(c) C l o g g e d breather.
(d) O i l seals w o r n .
(c) C l e a n breather thoroughly.
(d) R e p l a c e seals as required.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
REAR A X L E SHAFT
Removal
(1) Remove the wheel and the brake drum.
(2) Through the hole in the axle shaft flange, remove the five nuts from the axle shaft retainer plate.
The right hand shaft with the adjuster in the retainer
plate will also have a lock on one of the studs that will
be removed at this time. (Figs. 2 and 3).
(3) Pull the axle shaft assembly with Tool C-3971,
(Fig. 4).
(4) The inner seal should be removed at this time
using Tool C-637 (Fig. 5). Reinstall the seal using Tool
C-839 (Fig. 6).
Disassembly
(1) Install the axle shaft in a vise and notch the collar (Fig. 7). Slide the collar off the shaft.
MyMopar.com
3-2
REAR AXLE
CAUTION: To prevent the possibility of nicking the
shaft during the grinding operation, slide protective
=> rat- -
i
£ 1 .?i
sleeve SP5041 over the sealing surfaces of the axle
shaft and next to the bearing.
NK363
BLOCKS BEARING
REMOVING SP-5020
ADAPTER
SP-5021
SCREWS
SP-5026
Fig.
2—i##f Shelf
(Disassembled)
WASHERS
SP-320
ADAPTER
SP-5015
\
T~—
RING-BLOCK
HOLDING SP-5017
SLEEVE
SP-5041
F i g . 3 — f t i g h f Shcrff
(Disassembled)
NK360
F , . 4 — T o o / Set C - 3 9 7 F
g
MyMopar.com
Fig. 5—Removing
Inner
Seal
Fig. 6 — I n s t a l l i n g Inner
Seal
Fig. 8—-Removing
Fig. 9—Flange
(2) Remove the roller retainer by cutting it off the
lower edge with a chisel (Fig. 8).
(3) Grind a section off the flange of the inner bearing cone. (Fig. 9).
(4) Remove the bearing rollers from the section of
the flange that was ground away (Fig. 10).
Fig. 7—Notching
Bearing
Retainer
Collar
Qh® RoShir
Ground
Uletiaineir
off the Inner
Cone
(5) Pull the roller retainer down as far as possible
and cut it with a pair of side cutters and remove
from the assembly (Fig. 11).
(6) Remove the roller bearing cup from the axle
shaft.
F/a. 70-—Re mo vina the Bearina
Rollers
MyMopar.com
3-4
REAR AXLE'
SLEEVE
SP-504T
Fig. 11—Cutting
out the Roller Bearing
-4
Retainer
(7) Using Tool C-3971, remove the bearing cone.
Tighten the bolts alternately until the cone is removed
(Fig. 12).
(8) Replace the seal in the retainer plate.
Assembly
(1) Install the retainer plate on the axle shaft.
(2) Install a new bearing cone, cup and collar using
Tool C-3971 (Fig. 13).
(3) Tighten the long bolts alternately until the bearing and collar are installed.
Installation of Axle Shaft
(1) Install a new gasket Chrysler Part No. 2467173
on the left end of the housing, add the brake support
plate and Chrysler Part No. 2404191 gasket.
(2) Slide the left axle shaft assembly into position
carefully to avoid damaging the new inner seal. Install (5) retainer plate nuts 30 to 35 foot-pounds
torque.
(3) Repeat step (1) for right side of housing.
(4) Back off the adjuster on the right axle shaft assembly until the inner face of the adjuster is flush
with the inner face of the retainer. Slide the right axle
shaft assembly into the housing carefully to avoid
:
• •
"
. NK362
Fig. 13—-Installing New Bearing
and
Collar
damaging the new inner seal. Install (5) retainer plate
nuts 30-35 foot-pounds torque.
(5) Using a dial indicator mounted on the brake
support (Fig. 14) tighten the adjuster until both wheel
bearings are seated and there is zero end play in
the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster approximately
four notches to establish a shaft end play of .013" to
.023".
(6) Hit the end of the left shaft with a non-metallic
mallet to move the right wheel bearing cup against
the adjuster, and rotate the shaft so that a true end
play reading is indicated.
(7) Remove one retainer plate nut. Install the adjuster lock. If the tab on the lock does not mate with
a notch on the adjuster, turn adjuster until it does.
Install the nut 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(8) Re-test the shaft end play. If it is not between
.013'" to .023", then repeat the adjustment procedure.
(9) Remove the dial indicator and install the brake
drum, drum retaining clips and the wheel.
IP i
•re
NK361.
NK128
Fig 72-
-Removing
the Bearing
ToolC-3971
Cone
with
Fig. 14—Measuring
Driving
Axle Shaft End Play
MyMopar.com
REAR A X L E
3-5
REAR AXLE H O U S I N G
Removal
(1) Support the rear end of the vehicle on the frame
pads.
(2) Remove the rear axle lubricant with a suction
gun.
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft at the rear axle
end.
(4) Disconnect the hydraulic brake hose at the connection on the left side of the underbody.
(5) Disconnect the shock absorbers.
(6) Disconnect the parking brake cables.
(7) Remove the nuts from the " U " spring bolts.
(8) Remove the assembly from the vehicle.
Fig.
DIFFERENTIAL A N D CARRIER
Carrier
Removal
(1) Remove the axle drive shafts.
(2) Disconnect the rear universal joint and support the propeller shaft up and out of the way.
(3) Remove the lubricant from the axle housing using a suction gun.
Fig.
7 5 — C h e c k i n g for Runout
End
Play
and
Companion
Flange
(4) Remove the attaching nuts and lift the rear axle
carrier assembly from the axle housing.
Installation
(1) Position the housing under the vehicle. Be sure
the spring seat center holes engages the spring center bolt.
(2) Install the " U " bolts and nuts, and tighten to 50
foot-pounds torque.
(3) Connect the parking brake cables and adjust.
(4) Connect the shock absorbers.
(5) Connect the hydraulic brake hose and bleed the
brakes.
(6) Fill the axle with the proper amount of lubricant.
(7) Connect the propeller shaft.
(8) Lower the vehicle and test the operation.
16—Removing
Carrier
DISASSEMBLY
Disassembly
(1) Mount the carrier in Stand DD-1014 and attach
the dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool C-3339 to the
differential carrier flange so the pointer of the indicator squarely contacts the back face of the ring gear
(Fig. 15). Make certain there is no end play in the differential side bearings. If end play is evident, remove
the adjuster lock and slightly loosen the bearing cap
on the gear tooth side. Tighten the adjuster sufficiently to eliminate the end play.
(2) Rotate the drive gear several complete revolutions while noting the total indicator reading. This
reading must not exceed .005 inch runout. If the indicator reading exceeds the .005 inch runout, it will be
necessary to take a second reading after the drive gear
has been removed. This operation is covered during
"Differential Disassembly." Remove the dial indicator.
(3) With the companion flange up, hold the flange
with holding Tool C-3281 and remove the pinion shaft
nut and Belleville washer.
(4) Install the companion flange puller Tool C-452
and remove the flange (Fig. 16).
Zero
Fig.
17—Marking
Bearing
Caps
and
Adjusters
MyMopar.com
3-6
REAR AXLE
(5) Install the oil seal puller Tool C-748 by screwing it securely into the pinion oil seal and tighten the
puller screw to remove the seal.
(6) While holding one hand over the companion
flange end of the carrier, invert the carrier in the
stand. The front bearing cone shim pack and bearing spacer (where used) will drop from the carrier.
(7) Apply identifying punch marks on the bearing
supports of the differential carrier, differential bearing caps, and bearing adjusters for reassembly purposes (Fig. 17).
(8) Remove each of the differential bearing adjuster
lock screws and locks.
(9) With a % inch socket wrench, loosen the bearing cap bolts (one on each side) and back off the
bearing adjusters slightly with spanner wrench Tool
C-406A, to remove the differential case bearing preload. Remove the bearing cap bolts, caps and bearing
adjusters.
(10) Remove the differential assembly with the
bearing cups. Make certain that each bearing cup remains with its respective bearing.
(11) Withdraw the pinion and rear bearing from
the carrier.
Pinion Rear Bearing
Removal
(1) When removing the pinion rear bearing (Fig.
18) on a Chrysler Newport carrier use Tool C-293 and
four (4) No. 36 adaptors. On all other Chrysler and
Imperial models, use Tool C-293 and four (4) No. 37
adaptors.
(2) The drive pinion bearing cups can be removed
from the carrier with a blunt brass drift and hammer.
Differential
Case
Disassembly
(1) Hold the drive gear in an upright position using
brass jaws in a vise. With a % inch socket wrench,
remove the drive gear to differential attaching cap
screws.
Fig. 19—Checking
Flange
Drive Gear
Mounting
Runout
fiber mallet, tap the drive gear off the case.
(3) If the drive gear runout was found to be more
than .005 inch (Paragraph "Carrier Disassembly") test
the case as follows: Install the differential with bearing cups in the carrier.
(4) Install the bearing caps, attaching bolts and
bearing adjusters. Snug the bearing cap bolts down
lightly and screw in both adjusters with spanner
wrench Tool C-406A.
(5) Tighten the support cap bolts and adjusters sufficiently to prevent any end play in the bearings.
(6) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool C-3339
to the differential carrier flange so the pointer of the
indicator squarely contacts the drive gear surface of
the differential case flange between the outer edge of
the flange and the drive gear bolt holes (Fig. 19).
(7) Rotate the differential several complete revolutions while noting the total indicator reading. This
reading must not exceed .003 inch runout. If the run-
NOTE: The drive gear attaching screws have left
hand threads, turn clockwise to loosen.
(2) Remove the assembly from the vise and with a
PLATES
Fig. 20—Measuring
Fig. 18—Removing
Drive Pinion
Rear
Bearing
Differential
Gear
Clearance
MyMopar.com
I E A I AXLE
3-7
case with a flat nose drift and hammer. The lock pin
is a ¥4 inch hollow split type pin. (The hole is reamed
only part way through, making it necessary to remove the lock pin from one direction.)
(10) Drive the pinion shaft out with a brass drift
and hammer and remove the axle drive shaft thrust
block.
(11) Rotate one differential side gear until each pinion appears at the large opening of the case. Remove
each pinion and thrust washer at that time.
(12) Remove the two differential side gears and
thrust washers.
C L E A N I N G A N D INSPECTION
Fig. 21—Removing
Differential
Bearings
out is in excess of .003 inch, the differential case
must be replaced.
(8) Measure the side gear clearances between the
gear and case (Fig. 20). Clearances should be from
.001 to .012 inch. I f the clearance exceeds .012 inch,
install new thrust washers.
(9) From the back side of the drive gear flange,
drive the differential pinion shaft lock pin out of the
(1) Clean all parts in fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception
of the bearings, dry with compressed air.
(2) Inspect the differential bearing cones and cups
for pitting, spalling or other visible damage. If replacement is necessary, remove the bearings from the
differential case with puller Tool C-293 and four adaptor plates No. 18 (Fig. 21).
(3) Inspect the differential case for elongated or enlarged pinion shaft holes, the side gear counterbores
and the four thrust washer contacting surfaces for
galling, metal deposits or raised portions of metal.
If any of the above conditions exist, satisfactory correction must be made or the case replaced. Inspect
the case for cracks or other visible damage which
might render it unfit for further service. (Figs. 22
and 23).
(4) Inspect the differential pinion shaft for excessive
wear. Replace as necessary.
(5) Inspect the differential pinion gears for excessive wear, cracks, chipped teeth or other visible dam-
SHAFT
THRUST WASHER
BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
BEARING
I
CONE \
CUP\
\
ADJUSTER
BEARING CONE
J
NUT
SEAL
CAP
\
DRIVE GEAR
A N D PINION
#;c>rK5#^
SHIMS
CARRIER
CUP
BOLT
FLANGE
BEARING CONE
LOCK
PIN
/
\
b o l t
WASHER
GUARD
PLUG
CAP
CUP
ADJUSTER
SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER \
THRUST BLOCK
PINION
THRUST WASHER
SIDE GEAR
THRUST WASHER
LOCK
x
Fig. 22—Differential
Carrier
BEARING CONE
BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER
ADJUSTING WASHER
Assembly
(Disassembled)
KP1B
(AC-1)
(Small
Pinion)
MyMopar.com
3-8
HEAR AXLE
Fig. 23—Differential
Carrier
Assembly
(Disassembled)
age. Replace pinion gears or thrust washers as necessary.
(6) Inspect the differential side gears for cracks,
chipped teeth or other visible damage. Replace differential side gears or thrust washers as necessary.
(7) Inspect the axle shaft thrust block for excessive
wear or visible damage. The wear surface, on the opposite sides of the block, must be smooth. If inspection reveals that replacement of the thrust block is
necessary, the axle shaft end play must be reset.
(8) Inspect the differential pinion shaft lock pin
for damage or looseness in the case. Replace the pin
or case as necessary.
(9) Inspect the drive gear for worn or chipped teeth
or damaged attaching bolt threads. If replacement of
the drive gear is necessary, replace both the drive
gear and drive pinion as they are furnished in
matched sets only.
(10) Inspect the drive pinion bearing cones and the
cups (which may have been left in the carrier) for pitting, galling, excessive wear, or other visible damage.
If inspection reveals that either are unfit for further
service, replace the cup and cone.
(11) Inspect the differential carrier for cracks or
other visible damage which would render it unfit for
further service. Raised metal on the shoulder incurred
in removing the pinion cups should be flattened by use
of a flat nose punch.
(12) Inspect the drive pinion for damaged or excessively worn teeth, damaged bearings, journals or
splines. If replacement of the pinion is necessary, a
new drive gear must also be used as they are furnished
in matched sets only, also inspect the pinion bearing
spacer for distortion and damage.
(13) Inspect the companion flange for cracks, worn
splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting
(AC-2, AC-3, AY-1) (Large
Pinion)
surface. Repair or replace the companion flange as
necessary.
(14) Inspect the pinion bearing shim pack for damaged or distorted shims. Replace the shims with the
correct shim pack when determining the pinion bearing preload.
Differential
ASSEMBLY
Assembly
(1) Install a thrust washer on each of the differential side gears and position the gears in the case.
(2) Through the large side opening of the case, insert each of the two pinion and thrust washers exactly 180 degrees opposite each other, so the pinion shaft
holes of the two gears and thrust washers are properly aligned.
(3) Rotate the gears 90 degrees so that the pinion
shaft holes of the case are in exact alignment with the
holes in the two thrust washers and pinions.
(4) From the pinion shaft lock pin hole side of the
case, insert the slotted portion of the pinion shaft
through the case, and the conical thrust washer, and
just through one of the pinion gears.
(5) Install the thrust block through the hub, so that
the slot is centered between the side gears.
(6) While keeping all of these parts in proper alignment, push the pinion shaft into the case until the
locking pin hole in the pinion shaft is in exact alignment with its respective hole in the case. Install the
pinion shaft lock pin through the hole in the case
from the pinion shaft side of the drive gear flange.
NOTE: The contacting surfaces of the drive gear
and the case flange must be clean and free of all
burrs.
(7) Position the drive gear on the case, aligning the
threaded holes of the drive gear with those in the case
flange.
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REAR A X L E
(8) Insert the drive gear cap screws (left hand
threads) through the case flange and into the drive
gear. After all cap screws are properly started, tap the
drive gear onto the flange.
(9) Position the unit between the brass jaws of the
vise and alternately torque tighten each cap screw to
60 foot-pounds torque.
(10) Position each differential bearing cone on the
hub of the case (taper away from the drive gear) and
with installing Tool DD-1005, Install the bearing cones.
An arbor press may be used in conjunction with the
installing tool.
KP13A
CAUTION: Never exert pressure against the bearing cage, since this would damage the bearing.
Pinion
Bearing
Cup
Fig. 25—Seating
Installation
(1) Place the bearing cups squarely in position. Assemble Tool C-758 (Fig. 24) by placing spacer SP-2919
(on Chrysler Newport AC-1) followed by the rear pinion bearing cone over the main screw of the tool and
inserting it into the carrier from the gear side.
(2) Place the front pinion bearing over the main
screw followed by compression sleeve SP-535, centralizing washer SP-534, and main screw nut SP-533. Hold
the compression sleeve with the companion flange
holding Tool C-3281 and tighten the nut (Fig. 25) allowing the tool to rotate as the nut is being tightened in order not to damage the bearing or cups.
NOTE: Do not remove the tool after installing the
cups.
Pinion Bearing
Installation
Model
Preload-Depth
A C - 1 , Using
Tool
of
Mesh
C-758
Two types of drive pinions are used. The method of
determining pinion depth of mesh and bearing preload are the same for both pinions, however, the
sequence of making the two adjustments changes.
GAUGE BLOCK SP-528
_ r
W
R
E
N
C
CROSSBORE TUBE
SP-561
H
V ,*
>SCREW
3-9
the Bearing
Cups
in Carrier
Housing
Pinions used on Models AC-2, AC-3 and Models AY-1,
require the depth of mesh adjustment first, while
pinions used on Model AC-1 requires the bearing
preload adjustment first.
(1) With the tool installed in the carrier, remove the
main screw nut, centralizing washer, compression
sleeve and the front pinion bearing.
(2) Install the pinion bearing spacer, the larger bore
of spacer next to the rear bearing.
(3) Position the sleeve (SP-1730) in the front bearing, making sure the sleeve is flush with the rear of
the bearing.
(4) Position the original shims, previously removed
from the drive pinion shaft, over the sleeve and slide
the sleeve, bearing and shims over the tool main
screw until the shims rest against the spacer (Fig. 26).
(5) Install the tool compression sleeve (SP-535)
(square end out), centralizing washer (SP-534) and
main screw nut (SP-533). Turn the carrier in the stand
to bring the nut on top.
(6) Tighten the tool nut to 240 foot-pounds torque,
using holding Tool C-3281 on the compression sleeve
to hold the assembly in several positions to make a
complete revolution while tightening. Remove the
holding tool and rotate the assembly several turns in
both directions to align the bearing rollers. Retest the
torque to 240 foot-pounds (torque may have dimin-
-2920
\
1
~
l|k
SLEEVE
SP-2<
COMPRESSION
j l lk
gV
SLEEVE SP-535
COMPRESS
PINION L O C A T I N G WASHER O R SHIM
SPACER WASHER
SP-1371
^
=
A
^ M A I N BODY
X
SP-526
!
SPACER SP-2921
---/
—
;
SP-528
/
^Sl
\ X
SPACER
SP-1730
SP-2919 J V
COMPRESSION
NUT SP-533
CENTRALIZING WASHER SP-534
%
PINION LOCATING SPACER SP-2919
X
ASSEMBLY O F SP-526
CARRIER
/ ASSEMBLY
. \
J
^
-in 4
-.1
SPACER
SP-539
NK68
SP-1730
Fig. 24—Rear
Axle Setting
fool
C-758-D4
Gauge
KP152
Set
Fig. 26—Pinion
Preload
with S p a c e r (8 % " Ring
Gear)
MyMopar.com
3-10
REAR AXLE
ished as the bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).
(7) Using an inch pound torque wrench Tool C-685,
and with the handle of the wrench floating, read the
torque when the wrench is moving through at least
one full rotation. The correct reading is 20 to 30 inchpounds for a new bearing, and zero to 15 inch-pounds
for bearing in use and should be uniform during the
full rotations. If the bearing preload is more than 30
inch-pounds, a thicker shim should be used under the
front bearing. If the bearing preload is less than 20
inch-pounds, a thinner shim should be used. Shims
are available in thicknesses of .010, .012, .014, .016
and .018 inch. After proper pinion bearing preload
is established, do not remove the tool.
Depth of
Fig. 28—Installing
Mesh
The position of the drive pinion with respect to the
drive gear (depth of mesh) is determined by the location of the bearing cup shoulders in the carrier and
by the portion of the pinion in back of the rear bearing. The thickness of a pinion spacer washer suitable
for the carrier can be determined by using Tool C-758.
(1) Invert the carrier in the stand and install gauge
block SP-528 or SP-3250 on the end of the tool (Fig.
27) , attaching it to the tool with the Allen screw. The
flat portion of the spacer should be facing the differential bearing pedestals and the offset of the spacer
(or the large portion) toward the center of the carrier.
Tighten the screw with an Allen wrench.
(2) Position arbor SP-561 (part of Tool C-758) in
the differential bearing pedestals of the carrier (Fig.
28) . Center the arbor so that an approximate equal
distance is maintained at both ends. Position the differential bearing caps and attaching bolts on the carrier pedestals. Insert a piece of .002 inch feeler stock
between the arbor and each cap, and tighten the cap
bolts securely.
(3) Select the washer that will fit between the tool
gauge block and arbor (Fig. 29). The fit must be snug
Arbor
in
Carrier
but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge).
This washer is used only for determining the correct
thickness washer to be used for installation.
(4) To select the proper washer for installation,
read the marking on the end of the pinion (—0, — 1 ,
—2, - f 1, + 2 , etc.) When the marking is — (minus, add
that amount to the thickness of the washer selected in
step 3. When the marking is + (plus), subtract that
amount. Example: With a washer .086 inch thick and
a pinion marked —2, install spacer washer .088 inch
thick (.086 + .002 = .088). Example: With a washer
.086 inch thick and a pinion marked + 2 , install a
spacer washer .084 inch thick. (.086 — .002 — .084) or
when a washer .086 inch thick is too loose and the
.088 inch is too tight, use a .086 inch spacer washer.
(5) Remove the tool arbor from the carrier.
(6) Remove the tool and bearings out of the carrier.
(7) Remove the shims, spacer, tool sleeve, and
rear bearing cone from the tool main screw.
Bearing
Installation
(1) With the shaft end of pinion facing up, install
the correct pinion spacer washer on the pinion gear
shaft. These washers have a chamfer on one side.
•pi
Fig. 27—Installing
Gauge
Block on Tool
Fig. 29—Determining
Spacer
Thickness
MyMopar.com
REAR A X L E
3-11
While supporting the pinion in the carrier, install the
companion flange with installing Tool C-496 or DD999.
(10) Remove the tool and install the plain washer
(convex side of washer up) and nut.
(11) Hold the companion flange with holding Tool
C-3281. Torque the companion flange nut to 240 footpounds. Rotate the assembly several turns in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Retest the torque
to 240 foot-pounds (torque may have diminished as
bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).
P I N I O N B E A R I N G PRELOAD A N D P I N I O N
SETTING
Fig. 3 0 — P i n i o n Oil Seal
MODELS A C - 2 , A C - 3 , A Y - 1 U S I N G T O O L
C-758-D4
Installed
NOTE: The chamfer must face the pinion head.
(2) Position the rear bearing cone on the pinion
shaft (small end away from the pinion gear). Make
certain that the contacting surfaces of the correct
washer, pinion gear, and rear bearing cone are perfectly clean and free of any foreign particles.
(3) Install the rear bearing cone onto the pinion
shaft with Tool DD-996. An arbor press may be used
in conjunction with the tool.
(4) Install the bearing tubular spacer on the pinion
shaft (large bore facing the rear bearing).
(5) Install the selected shim pack.
(6) Lubricate the front and rear pinion shaft bearing cones with Multipurpose Gear Lubricant.
(7) Install the front bearing in its cup in the carrier.
(8) Install the oil seal in the carrier with driver Tool
C-3656, lip of seal must face the front bearing. The
seal must be driven into the carrier until the tool
bottoms against the front pinion bearing cone (Fig.
30).
(9) Insert the pinion shaft up through the carrier.
Fig. 31—Tool
C-758
Installed
Inspect the bearing cups and carrier for grit and
dirt. Assemble spacer SP-2921 to the main section of
the tool followed by spacer SP-1730. Install the pinion rear bearing over spacer SP-1730 and against spacer SP-2921 (Fig. 31). Insert the assembly into the carrier housing and install the front bearing over the tool
shaft and in its proper position in the bearing cup.
Install the tool spacer; tool thrust washer and the tool
nut on the shaft. Tighten the tool setting nut to not
more than 25 to 50 foot-pounds torque.
Turn the tool several revolutions to permit the bearing rollers to seat. After the bearing rollers have been
properly seated, check the bearing preload by rotating the tool with an inch-pound torque wrench. With
the bearings lubricated with hypoid gear oil the correct preload should be from 25 to 50 inch-pounds
torque.
Assemble gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 to the
main screw attaching it with the alien screw securely.
Position tool arbor SP-561 in the differential carrier
bearing supports. Insert a piece of .002 inch feeler
stock between the arbor and each cap. Install the caps
and tighten the bolts to 10 foot-pounds torque.
in Housing
Models
AC-2, A C - 3 , AY-7
MyMopar.com
3-12
REAR AXLE
Select a gauge washer that will just pass between
the gauge block end of the tool and the machined surface of the bearing arbor. As an example, if a .090
inch spacer can be inserted but a .092 inch spacer cannot be forced between the two surfaces by hand, the
.090 inch spacer should be used even though it might
feel loose.
Note the end of the drive pinion as it will indicate
the amount that should be added or subtracted from
the spacer that was selected. As an example, if the
pinion shaft indicated plus two a .002 inch thinner
spacer should be used for final assembly. As an example, if a spacer selected by the use of the tool is
.090 inch it is necessary to deduct .002 inch, therfore,
the correct spacer for final assembly would be .088
inch.
To correctly read the markings on the end of the
drive pinion, always remember that the plus ( + ) symbol indicates a deduction of the required spacer
thickness, whereas the minus (—) symbol indicates
the necessity for a thicker spacer.
When the correct spacer is selected for the drive
pinion, disassemble the setting tool from the differential carrier housing and add the pinion positioning
spacer just selected to the tool, between spacer SP2921 and the pinion rear bearing. Install spacer SP1730 and the pinion bearing adjusting spacer from the
previous bearings. Insert the tool assembly in the
carrier housing. Place the forward roller bearing over
the shaft and in position in the carrier bearing cup. Install the tool spacer, tool nut washer and tool nut on
the shaft. Hold the compression sleeve nut with holding Tool C-3281 and tighten the nut to 240 foot-pounds
torque. Turn the tool several revolutions to permit
the bearing rollers to seat. After the bearing rollers
have been properly seated measure the bearing preload by rotating the tool with an inch-pound torque
wrench. With the bearing lubricated with Multipurpose Gear Lubricant, the correct preload specifications
are from 45 to 50 inch-pounds torque.
If the bearing adjustment does not conform to specifications it will be necessary to change the adjustment
by either a thicker or thinner pinion bearing spacer.
If the preload is too great it will be necessary to install
a thicker spacer and if the pre-load is not sufficient a
thinner spacer will be necessary.
When the correct spacer is selected for the drive
pinion bearing, disassemble the tool from the differential carrier housing and install the bearings, pinion
positioning spacer and bearing spacer to the pinion
and install the assembly in the housing. Measure the
turning torque,, it should be 20 to 30 inch pounds before installing the seal. If not within specifications,
correct as necessary.
Assembly
of Pinion Carrier
9
With the shaft end of pinion facing up, install the
selected washer on the pinion stem, with the chamfered side of the washer facing the drive pinion gear.
Position the rear bearing on the pinion shaft. Make
sure the contacting surfaces of the washer, pinion gear
and rear bearing are perfectly clean and free from
dirt or foreign particles. Install the rear bearing cone
onto the pinion shaft with Tool DD-955. Install the selected shim pack. Lubricate the front and rear bearing. Insert the pinion and bearing assembly in the
carrier. Apply a light coat of sealer in the carrier bore
at the seal area. Install a new seal with Tool C-3656
until the driver bottoms on the pinion front bearing. Install and support the pinion gear assembly in
the carrier, and install the universal joint flange with
installing Tool C-496 or DD-999. Install the plain washer (concave side of washer down) and nut. Tighten
the flange nut to 240 foot-pounds torque and remove
the flange holding tool.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD A N D PINION
SETTING
(Without Using Special Tool C-758)
If the differential assembly was satisfactorily quiet
before being disassembled, the drive pinion may be
assembled with the original adjusting washers and
shims. If replacement parts are installed, or differential adjustment is necessary, the proper thickness
washer must be installed between the pinion and
rear bearing. The drive gear and pinion are manufactured and lapped in matching sets. The adjustment position in which the best tooth contact is obtained is etched on the end of the pinion shaft.
To obtain the proper pinion setting in relation to
the drive gear, the correct thickness thrust washer
must be selected before the drive pinion is installed
in the carrier. The pinion bearing adjusting washers
are available from .084 inch to .100 inch in .002 inch
steps. To select the proper thickness thrust washer,
proceed as follows: It will be noted that the face of
the drive pinion is etched with a plus ( + ) or minus
(—) sign, followed by a number ranging from 1 to 4,
or zero (0) marking.
Depth of Mesh
If the old and new pinion have the same marking
and if the original bearing is being reused, use a
thrust washer of the same thickness. But if the old
pinion is marked zero (0) and the new pinion is marked
+ 2, try a .002 inch thinner washer. If the new pinion
is marked —2, try a .002 inch thicker washer.
Pinion Bearing
Preload
If the bearing cups are to be replaced, place the
bearing cups in position in the carrier and drive the
C U D S in place with a suitable drift. After properly positioning of the bearing cups in the carrier, assemble
the drive pinion thrust washer (chamfered side down
MyMopar.com
toward gear) on the drive pinion stem. Install the rear
bearing, spacer (if so equipped) and shims on the pinion stem. Insert the pinion shaft into the carrier. Install the front pinion bearing, universal joint flange,
washer and nut. Do not install the oil seal. Tighten
the drive pinion flange nut to 240 foot-pounds torque.
Rotate the drive pinion shaft after tightening the
flange nut, to properly seat the bearing rollers in the
bearing cups. The pre-load torque required to rotate
the pinion shaft with the bearings oiled should be 20
to 30 inch-pounds torque for new bearings and 0 to
15 inch-pounds for bearings in use. Add shims to decrease torque or remove shims to increase torque.
After the correct pinion setting and bearing preload
has been obtained, remove the drive pinion flange. Install the oil seal. Install the pinion flange, washer and
nut. Tighten the pinion nut to the proper torque.
i
KP21
Fig. 3 3 — M e a s u r i n g Backlash
Gear
Installation
in
and
Between
Drive
Pinion
Carrier
(1) Install the differential bearing cup on its respective bearing, and position the assembly in the carrier.
(2) Install the differential bearing caps, making certain that the identification marks on the cap correspond with those on the carrier. Install the attaching
bolts and tighten the bolts of each cap by hand.
(3) Note the identification marks on the differential
bearing adjusters and reinstall each in its respective
side.
(4) Screw the adjuster in by hand. No attempt
should be made at this time to apply any excessive
pressure. To square the bearing cups with the bearing, turn the adjusters " i n " with spanner wrenches
Tool C-406A (Fig. 32), until cups are properly squared
with the bearings and end play is eliminated with
some backlash existing between the drive gear and
pinion.
(5) While facing each bearing support cap, tighten
one bolt 85 to 90 foot-pounds torque on each side.
DRIVE G E A R A N D P I N I O N B A C K LASH
The drive and pinion backlash should be .006 to
.008 inch at the point of minimum backlash.
(1) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-340 or C-3339 to
the carrier flange so pointer or indicator is squarely
contacting one of the drive gear teeth (drive side)
(Fig. 33).
(2) Measure the backlash between the drive gear
and pinion. After the first reading is taken, move the
dial indicator away from the tooth sufficiently to rotate the drive gear approximately 90 degrees and
again measure the backlash. The backlash should be
measured in four different positions to determine the
least clearance between the drive gear and pinion.
After the point of least clearance has been established,
mark the drive gear.
NOTE: Do not rotate the drive gear from the point
of least clearance until all adjustments have been
completed.
(3) Turn both bearing adjusters equally (in the same
direction) until the backlash between the drive gear
and the pinion is .0005 to .0015 inch. This backlash
variation is given to permit alignment and installation
of the bearing adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching
bolt. The adjuster must only be turned in a clockwise
direction and under no circumstances should be
backed off.
(4) Install the adjuster lock on the bearing cap on
the back-face side of the drive gear.
Side Bearing
KP20
Fig. 3 2 — A d j u s t i n g Differential
Bearings
Preload
(1) Turn the bearing adjuster (tooth side of drive
gear) (Fig. 33) in a notch at a time (notch referred to
is the adjuster lock holes) until the backlash between
the drive gear and pinion is a minimum of .006 inch
to .008 inch. This will preload the bearings and es-
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tablish the correct backlash.
(2) Tighten the remaining two bearing support cap
bolts 85 to 90 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Install the remaining adjuster lock, lockwasher
and attaching bolts. Tighten the lock retaining cap
screws 15 to 20 foot-pounds torque.
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN
The gear tooth contact pattern (Fig. 34) will disclose whether the correct washer has been installed
behind the pinion rear bearing and the drive gear has
been positioned properly. Refer to Figure 34 for various gear tooth contact patterns.
Obtaining
Tooth Contact
Pattern
Apply red lead to the drive gear teeth and apply a
load against the back of the drive gear with a round
bar. As this pressure is being applied to the drive gear,
rotate the pinion. This action will leave a distinct contact pattern on the gear teeth. The series of illustrations shows the correct pattern as well as a series of
incorrect patterns.
Correct Adjustment—Proper
Tooth
Contact
With the adjustments properly made, correct tooth
contact will result. Notice that contact pattern is well
centered on the drive and coast sides. When tooth contact patterns are obtained by hand, they are apt to
be rather small. Under an actual operating load, however, the contact area increases.
If improper tooth contact is evident Fig. 34, the pinion should be adjusted either forward or backward,
maintaining the backlash within specified limits unDRIVE
COAST
til the correct tooth contact, as shown in Figure 34
is obtained.
Heavy
Contact
Heavy
Flank
Contact
If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth
and is narrow and low on the flank, the pinion teeth
will score and also result in noise. This condition is
corrected by installing a thinner washer behind the
pinion rear bearing.
Heavy
Toe Contact
If the tooth pattern is heavy on the toe of the tooth,
the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive
damage of the entire assembly. This condition is corrected by moving the drive gear away from the pinion. This will increase the backlash making it necessary to insert a thicker washer behind the pinion rear
bearing.
Heavy
Heel
Contact
If the tooth pattern is heavy on the heel of the teeth,
the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive
damage to the entire assembly. This condition is corrected by moving the drive gear toward the pinion.
This would result in decreasing the backlash making it
necessary to insert a thinner washer behind the pinion rear bearing.
Welding
Rear Axle
Housing
The axle housing should be completely disassembled
if it is to be welded with arc welding equipment. It is
also possible to weld the assembled housing with gas
welding equipment, if precaution is taken to protect
gaskets and heat-treated parts.
CORRECT
ADJUSTMENT
PINION S P A C E R
TOO THICK
Toe, Low
H e e l , Low
Carrier
PINION SPACER
TOO THIN
H e e l , High
Toe, High
G E A R TOO C L O S E
T O PINION
S l i g h t l y Higher
GEAR TOO FAR
FROM PINION
S l i g h t l y Lower
1. PINION SPACER CHANGES AFFECT THE COAST SIDE CONTACT
FASTER THAN THE DRIVE SIDE
2. BACKLASH ADJUSTMENTS AFFECT THE DRIVE SIDE CONTACT
MUCH FASTER THAN THE COAST SIDE
3. ALL BACKLASH MEASUREMENTS SHOULD BE MADE AT THE
POINT O F MINIMUM BACKLASH
NY1022A
Fig. 34—Gear
Face
If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth
face, narrow and near the top, the teeth will wear thin
and roll over or score, resulting in excessive gear lash
and noise. This condition is corrected by installing a
thicker washer behind the pinion rear bearing.
Tooth Contact
Pattern
Assembly
Installation
(1) Using a new gasket, install the carrier assembly
to the axle housing. Tighten mounting nuts to 45 footpounds torque.
(2) Refer to Paragraph "Installation of Rear Axle
Shaft," when installing the axle shafts.
(3) Connect the rear universal joint.
(4) Remove the block from the brake pedal and
bleed the brake lines.
(5) Refill the axle housing and carrier assembly with
Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant as defined by MIL-L2105B. Chrysler Hypoid Lubricant Part No. 1879414 is
also recommended.
Anticipated Temperature
Viscosity Grade
Above—10°F.
SAE
90
As low as—30°F.
SAE
80
Below—30°F.
SAE
75
(6) Install and tighten the wheels and tires.
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SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
3-15
SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
up through the filler plug hole to identify the type of
differential case. The sure-grip type differential case
(two-piece construction) has attaching bolts. The conventional type differential case (one-piece construction) has a dome-like shape with no case cap attaching bolts.
Whenever the rear axle shafts have been removed
from the "Sure Grip" axle assembly, always determine that the thrust spacers have not fallen out of the
pinion shaft. (Fig. 36.) The spacers may be observed
Description
The sure-grip differential (Figs. 35, 36, 37 and 38) is
similar to the conventional differential except for the
addition of friction plates and Belleville plates and
discs for clutching the differential case to the differential gears and a means for engaging these plates.
The Belleville plates and discs accomplish a positive
engagement of the clutch discs and plates at all times
by placing a preload on the plates and discs. It has
four pinion gears, positioned in the case by two pinion shafts which are at right angles to each other and
loose fitting at their inter-section. Both ends of each
shaft have two flat surfaces, or ramps, which mate with
identical ramps in the differential case. There Is additional clearance in the case to permit a slight peripheral movement of the ends of the pinion shafts within
the case.
PINION S H A F T
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
DIFFERENTIAL C A S E
CLUTCH
PLATES
Identification
Identification of sure-grip type differential assembly
can be made by lifting the rear wheels off the ground
and turning them. I f they both turn in the same direction, the vehicle is equipped with a Sure Grip Differential or the letter "S" stamped on the identification
pad on the right side of carrier housing, or by a metal
tag reading, "Use Sure-Grip Lube" attached by means
of the rear axle housing-to-carrier bolt, below the
carrier filler plug. I f the letter "S" or tag is not apparent, remove the filler plug and use a flashlight to look
AXLE
SHAFT
PINION
THRUST MEMBER
DIFFERENTIAL
PINION
Fig.
35—Sure
Grip
SHAFT
Differential
PINION
KR260
(Schematic)
DRIVE PINION
AXLE DRIVE GEAR
PINION THRUST
MEMBER
CLUTCH PLATES
AXLE SHAFT
AXLE SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR
Fig.
36—Sure Grip
Differential
View)
(Cross
KR259
Section
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3-16
SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
AXLE
DRIVE
GEAR
A X L E DRIVE
PINION
.
AXLE
AXLE
SCRIBE
MARKS
SHAFT
SHAFT
KR718
DIFFERENTIAL
SIDE GEAR
Fig. 39—Case
Halves
Scribed
for
Proper
Reassembly
DIFFERENTIAL
to disassemble the "Sure-Grip" differential to reinstall
them.
PINION
Lubrication
KR261
Fig. 37—Power
Flow—-Axle
Same
Shafts
Turning
at
Speed
through the axle shaft opening of the axle housing.
This may be done with the aid of a small flashlight.
If the spacers are out of place, it will be necessary
Multi-purpose Gear Lubricant as defined by MILL-2105B is used in all rear axles. Chrysler Hypoid
Lubricant Part No. 1879414 is also recommended.
Anticipated Temperature
Viscosity Grade
Above —10°F
SAE
90
As low as —30°F
SAE
80
Below—30 °F
SAE
75
Removal
AXLE
DRIVE
GEAR
AXLE
DRIVE
Follow the same procedure outlined under removal
and installation of the conventional rear axle differential.
(1) Remove the axle drive gear. Measure the runout
of the drive gear mounting flange. Replace both case
halves if the runout exceeds .003 inch.
PINION
NOTE: Before disassembling the case halves, place
AXLE
AXLE
SHAFT
SHAFT
CASE CAP
CLUTCH
PLATES
DIFFERENTIAL
SIDE GEAR
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
DIFFERENTIAL
PINION
KR262
Fig. 38—Power
F l o w — A x l e Shafts
Different
Speeds
Turning
at
KR719
Fig. 40—Removing
or Installing
Case
Cap
Differential
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SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
3-17
KR722
Fig. 41—Removing
or Installing
Clutch
Plates
(Cap
Side)
scribe marks on each half to aid in aligning the
case when reassembling (Fig. 39).
Fig. 43—Removing
Side
Gear
(Cap
Side)
(2) Remove the case cap attaching bolts and remove
the case cap (Fig. 40). Remove the clutch plates (Fig.
41).
(3) Remove the side gear retainer (Fig. 42), and the
side gear (Fig. 43).
(4) Remove the pinion shafts with the pinion gears
(Fig. 44).
(5) Remove the remaining side gear (Fig. 45) the
side gear retainer (Fig. 46) and the clutch plates (Fig.
47).
(6) Remove the axle shaft thrust spacer by passing
out the lock pin.
Cleaning
and
Inspection
Clean all the parts thoroughly. Inspect all the parts
for wear, nicks and burrs. The inner and outer flat
clutch plates and outer flat clutch disc should be replaced if they are worn or distorted. If either case half
is worn, it will be necessary to replace both halves.
Fig. 42—Removing
Retainer
or Installing
(Cap
Side)
Side
Gear
Fig. 44—Removing
Fig. 45—Removing
from
Pinion
Shafts
or Installing
Differential
and
Side
Case
Gears
Gear
MyMopar.com
3-18
SURE-GRIP
DIFJFEKENYIAI
KR725
Fig. 48—-Arrangement
Fig. 46—Removing
Retainer
Side
©r Installing
from Differential
Gem
Case
Assembly
(1) Position the clutch plates and discs in their
proper location in each half of the case, (Fig. 48).
(2) Place the side gears in their retainers. Insert
splines of the retainers through the splines of the
clutch discs.
(3) Place the aligning pin through one axle shaft
thrust spacer. Assemble the pinion shafts on aligning pin.
(4) Place the pinion gears on shafts and install the
assembly on the drive gear half of the case. Insert the
thrust spacer in the pinion shaft (Fig. 49).
(5) Slide the cap half of case over the edge of
bench far enough to insert one finger up through the
assembly to hold it together. Place the assembly on
the drive gear half, matching the scribe marks.
(6) Make sure the markings on each differential
case half coincide. Install the differential case bolts
and turn them in a few threads.
of Plates
and
Discs
IMPORTANT: Insert the axle shafts from the vehicle to align the splines. Make sure the axle shafts
engage the side gear splines.
With the shafts installed, center the cross shafts
between the two ramp surfaces in the differential case.
Tighten the differential case bolts evenly by alternately turning opposite bolts until all are tightened to 45
foot-pound torque. To keep the splines of the side gear
and the clutch plates in exact alignment during the
tightening procedure, move the axle shafts back and
forth as the bolts are being tightened. After assembly, slight misalignments of the splines can be corrected by moving the axle shafts back and forth until
free. Remove the axle shafts.
installation
(1) Use Tool C-3565 when installing the rear axle
shaft outer oil seal, and seal protector Tool C-745
when installing the brake support over the rear axle
shaft.
(2) Before lowering the rear wheels of the vehicle to
the floor, adjust the rear brakes.
CAUTION: Both rear wheels must be raised off the
floor when adjusting the brakes.
AXLE SHAFT
s THRUST SPACER
KR726A
Fig. 47—Removing
or Installing
from Differential
Clutch
Case
KR727
Plates
Fig. 49—Installing
Axle Shaft Thrust
Spacers
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GROUP 5
BRAKES
CONTENTS
Page
Page
1
1
4
POWER B R A K E — B E N D I X
15
POWER B R A K E — K E L S E Y H A Y E S
17
POWER B R A K E — M I D L A N D ROSS
22
SPECIFICATIONS
In Rear of M a n u a l
DESCRIPTION
SERVICE D I A G N O S I S
SERVICE BRAKES
PARKING B R A K E S — I M P E R I A L A N D
CHRYSLER PEDAL
12
T I G H T E N I N G REFERENCE
In Rear of M a n u a l
Description
The 1965 Imperial and Chrysler Models have a selfadjusting servo contact, two shoe, internal expanding
brake. The lower ends of the brake shoes are con-
nected by a tubular star wheel adjusting screw, (Figs.
1 and 2). Police vehicles with heavy duty brakes are
not self-adjusting.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
SERVICE BRAKES
PEDAL G O E S T O THE
(a) Fluid low in reservoir.
(a) Fill a n d bleed the master cylinder.
FLOOR
(b) Excessively worn brake lining.
(b) Reline a n d adjust the brakes.
(c) Improperly adjusted brake.
(c) Repair or replace self-adjuster a s required.
(d) Leaking wheel cylinders.
(d) Recondition or r e p l a c e the wheel cylinder a n d
(e) Loose or broken brake lines.
(e) Tighten all brake fittings or r e p l a c e the brake
(f)
(f)
replace both brake shoes.
line.
Air in hydraulic brake system.
(g) Leaking or worn master cylinder.
Fill a n d bleed the hydraulic brake system.
(g) Recondition or replace the master cylinder a n d
bleed the hydraulic system.
S P O N G Y BRAKE PEDAL
(a) Air in hydraulic system.
(a) Fill the master cylinder a n d bleed the hydraulic
(b) Improper brake fluid (low boiling point).
(b) Drain, flush a n d refill with brake fluid.
(c) Excessively worn or cracked brake drums.
(c) Replace all defective brake drums.
(d) Broken p e d a l pivot bushing.
(d) Replace nylon pivot bushing.
(a) Incorrect brake
(a) Adjust the brakes a n d check the fluid.
system.
BRAKES P U L L I N G
adjustment.
(b) Brake drums out of round.
(b) G r i n d or replace the brake
(c) Brake shoes distorted.
(c) Replace the faulty brake shoes.
(d) Contaminated
(d) Replace the contaminated
lining.
drums.
brake
lining.
(e) Unmatched brake lining.
(e) Match the primary, secondary a n d same type
(f)
(f)
of lining on all wheels.
Restricted brake hose or line.
(g) Front end out of
alignment.
(h) Broken rear spring.
SQUEALING
BRAKES
Replace the plugged hose or brake line.
(g) Align the front e n d .
(h) Replace the broken spring.
(a) Incorrect brake lining.
(a) Install matched brake lining.
(b) Dust in brakes or scored brake drums.
(b) Blow out the brake assembly with compressed
(c) Distorted brake shoes.
(c) Replace the brake shoes.
(d) Bent brake support plate.
(d) Replace the support plate.
(e) Broken or w e a k brake shoe return spring.
(e) Replace the return spring.
air a n d grind the brake drums.
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5-2
BRAKES—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
SERVICE BRAKES
(f)
(Continued)
(g) G l a z e d brake lining.
W e a k or broken brake shoe retaining spring.
(h) Saturated brake lining.
DRAGGING
BRAKES
WHEEL L O C K S
(a) Incorrect wheel or parking brake adjustment.
(a) Adjust the brakes a n d check the fluid.
(b) Release the parking brakes.
(c) W e a k or broken brake shoe return spring.
(c) Replace the brake shoe return spring.
(d) Brake pedal binding.
(d) Free up and lubricate the brake pedal
linkage.
(e) Master cylinder cup sticking.
(e) Recondition the master cylinder.
(f)
(f)
Incorrect master cylinder push rod adjustment.
(h) Replace the brake lining.
0)
(a) Incorrect brake lining.
(a) Install matched brake lining.
(b) Adjust the brake push rod a n d check the fluid.
(c) Frozen brake pedal linkage.
(d) Restricted brake line or hose.
(c) Free up a n d lubricate the brake linkage.
(d) C l e a n out or replace the brake line or hose.
(e) Brake booster inoperative.
(e) Recondition or replace the brake booster.
(a) Loose or torn brake lining.
(a) Replace the brake lining.
(b) C l e a n , pack a n d adjust the wheel bearings.
(d) Contaminated brake lining.
FADE
Grind or replace the faulty brake drum.
(b) Incorrect brake push rod adjustment.
(c) W h e e l cylinder cups sticking.
BRAKES
Properly adjust the master cylinder push rod.
(h) Saturated brake lining.
Bent or out of round brake drum.
and
(g) Use compressed air a n d blow out the relief
port.
(i)
(b) Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment.
(HIGH SPEED)
(f) Replace the retaining spring.
(g) C a m grind or replace the brake lining.
(h) Replace the saturated lining.
(b) Parking brakes e n g a g e d .
(g) Obstructed master cylinder relief port.
HARD PEDAL
Correction
Possible C a u s e
(c) Recondition or replace the wheel cylinder.
(d) Reline both front or rears or all four brakes.
(c) Overheated brake drums.
(a) Replace lining.
(b) Grind or replace the drums.
(c) Inspect for dragging brakes.
(d) Incorrect brake fluid (low boiling temperature).
(d) Drain, flush, refill a n d
(a) Incorrect lining.
(b) Distorted or out of round brake drums
bleed the
hydraulic
brake system.
(e) Saturated brake lining.
(e) Reline both front or rear or all four brakes.
PEDAL PULSATES
(a) Bent or out of round brake drum.
(o) Grind or replace the brake drums.
BRAKE CHATTER
(b) Loose support plate.
(b) Tighten the support plate bolts to the proper
torque.
(d) Distorted brake shoes.
(c) Replace the support plate.
(d) Replace the brake shoes.
(e) Machine grooves in the contact f a c e of the
(e) G r i n d or replace the brake drum.
(c) Bent support plate.
brake drum.
(f)
Contaminated brake lining.
(f)
Replace either front or rear or all four brakes.
BRAKES D O N O T SELF
(a) Adjuster screw frozen in the thread.
(a) C l e a n a n d free-up all thread areas.
ADJUST
(b) Adjuster screw corroded at the thrust washer.
(b) C l e a n
the
threads
and
replace
the
thrust
washer if necessary.
(c) Adjuster lever does not e n g a g e star wheel.
(c) Repair, free up or replace adjuster a s required.
(a) Improper cable or brake shoe adjustment.
(a) Properly adjust the service brakes then adjust
(b) Broken brake shoe return spring.
(b) Replace any broken return spring.
(c) Broken brake shoe retainer spring.
(c) Replace the broken retainer spring.
(d) G r e a s e or brake fluid s o a k e d lining.
(d) Replace the grease seal or recondition
PARKING BRAKES
DRAGGING
BRAKE
the parking brake c a b l e .
the
wheel cylinders a n d replace both brake shoes.
MyMopar.com
5-3
-BRAKES—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Possible Cause
Correction
PARKING BRAKES
(e) Sticking or frozen b r a k e c a b l e .
(e) C l e a n a n d lubricate the c a b l e s .
(Continued)
(f)
(f)
BRAKE WILL N O T H O L D
Broken rear spring.
R e p l a c e the broken r e a r spring.
(g) Bent or rusted c a b l e equalizer.
(g) Straighten, or r e p l a c e a n d lubricate the e q u a -
(a) Broken or rusted b r a k e c a b l e .
(a) Replace or
clean
and
lubricate
the
brake
cable.
(b) Improperly adjusted b r a k e or c a b l e .
(b) Adjust brakes a n d c a b l e a s necessary.
(c) S o a k e d brake lining.
(c) Replace the b r a k e lining.
(d) Ratchet or p e d a l mechanism worn.
(d) Replace p e d a l a s s e m b l y .
POWER BRAKES
D R A G G I N G BRAKES
(a) Brake shoes improperly
(ALL W H E E L S )
(b) Brake pedal linkage
adjusted.
(a) Adjust the brakes.
(b) Free up the linkage.
binding.
(c) Excessive hydraulic s e a l friction.
(c) Lubricate the s e a l .
(d) Compensator port p l u g g e d .
(d) C l e a n out the master cylinder.
(e) Sticking valve plunger.
(e) Free up a n d lubricate the valve
(f)
(f)
Improper booster push rod length adjustment.
(g) Fluid cannot return to master cylinder.
plunger.
Adjust the push rod.
(g) Inspect the p e d a l
return a n d
push rod
ad-
justment.
(h) Parking b r a k e not
(i)
G R A B B I N G BRAKES
(h) Free up a s required.
returning.
Improperly staked valve sleeve.
(i)
R e p l a c e valve assembly.
(a) G r e a s e or brake fluid on linings.
(a) Inspect for a leak a n d replace the lining a s
(b) Sticking actuating
(b) Free up the valve.
required.
valve.
PEDAL G O E S T O F L O O R
(a) Self-adjusters not operating.
(a) Inspect the self-adjuster operations.
(or almost to floor)
(b) Air in hydraulic system.
(b) Bleed the brakes.
(c) Hydraulic
(c) Locate a n d correct the leak.
HARD
PEDAL
(POWER
UNIT TROUBLE)
leak.
(d) Fluid low in master cylinder.
(d) A d d brake fluid.
(e) Shoe hanging up on rough platform.
(e) Smooth a n d lubricate the
(f)
(f)
Broken plunger stem.
(a) Faulty vacuum check v a l v e .
(a) Replace the check v a l v e .
(b) C o l l a p s e d or leaking vacuum hose.
(b) R e p l a c e the hose.
(c) Plugged vacuum fittings.
(c) C l e a n out the fittings.
(d) Leaking vacuum c h a m b e r .
(d) Locate a n d correct the leak.
(e) Diaphragm assembly out of p l a c e in housing.
(e) Position the d i a p h r a g m .
(f)
(f)
V a c u u m leak in forward vacuum housing.
SELF-APPLICATION O F
(a) Leak in rear housing.
BRAKES W H E N E N G I N E
(b) Diaphragm
STARTS
out of
location
Locate a n d correct the leak.
(a) Locate a n d correct the leak.
in housings a n d
(b) Position the diaphragm.
allowing atmospheric pressure into rear c h a m b e r .
(c) Sticking or unseated actuating valve assembly.
GRUNTING
platforms.
Replace valve plunger assembly.
NOISE
IN
(c) Free up the valve a n d seat properly.
(a) Air in hydraulic system.
(a) Bleed the brakes.
P O W E R BRAKE O N
(b) Lack of valve plunger lubrication.
(b) Lubricate the plunger.
APPLICATION
(c) Fluid low in master cylinder.
(c) A d d b r a k e fluid.
MyMopar.com
5-4
SERVICE
BRAKES
SERVICE
PROCEDURES
SERVICE BRAKES
Adjusting
the Brakes
NOTE: Normally self-ad justing brakes will not require manual adjustment but in the event of a brake
reline, it may be advisable to make the initial adjustment manually to speed up the adjusting time.
(1) Jack up the vehicle so all wheels are free to turn.
(2) Remove the rear adjusting hole cover from the
backing plate on all of the brake supports of the vehicle.
(3) Re sure the parking brake lever is fully released, then back off the parking brake cable adjustment so there is slack in the cable.
(4) Insert the adjusting tool C-3784, into the star
wheel of the adjusting screw. Move the handle of the
tool downward until a slight drag is felt when the road
wheel is rotated.
(5) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and push the adjusting lever out of engage-
ment with the star wheel (Fig. 3), while holding the
adjusting lever out of engagement, back off the star
wheel 10 to 12 notches to insure a free wheel with
no brake shoe drag.
NOTE: Care should be taken not to bend the adjusting lever.
(6) Repeat the above adjustment at each wheel.
The adjustment must be equal at all wheels. Install
the adjusting hole covers in the brake supports.
(7) Tighten the parking brake cable adjusting nut
until a slight drag is felt at the rear wheels, loosen
the cable adjusting nut until both rear wheels can
be rotated freely, then back off the cable adjusting
nut two full turns.
Testing Automatic
Adjuster
Operation
Place the vehicle on a hoist, with a helper in the
driver's seat to apply the brakes. Remove the plug
from the rear adjustment slot in each brake support
plate to observe the adjuster star wheel. Then, to
ADJUSTING
CABLE
62x501C
Fig. I — F r o n f Brake Assembly*
MyMopar.com
SERVICE BRAKES
Fig.
2—Rear
exclude the possibility of maximum adjustment; that
is, the adjuster refuses to operate because the closest
possible adjustment has been reached; the star wheel
should be backed off approximately 30 notches. It
will be necessary to hold the adjuster lever away from
the star wheel to allow backing off of the adjustment.
Spin the wheel and brake drum in the reverse direction and apply the brakes vigorously. This will provide the necessary inertia to cause the secondary
brake shoe to leave the anchor. The wrap up effect
will move the secondary shoe, and the cable will pull
the adjuster lever up. Upon release of the brake pedal,
the lever should snap downward, turning the star
wheel. Thus, a definite rotation of the adjuster star
wheel can be observed i f the automatic adjuster is
working properly. If by the described procedure one
or more automatic adjusters do not function properly,
the respective drum must be removed for adjuster
servicing.
Brake
5-5
Assembly
with the adjusting tool.
(4) Remove the wheel cover, grease cap, cotter pin,
lock, adjusting nut, outer wheel bearing and remove
the wheel and drum assembly from the spindle.
(5) Inspect the brake lining for wear, shoe alignment, or contamination from grease or brake fluid.
Removing
the Rear
Brake
Drums
(1) With the vehicle on a hoist, jack, or suitable
stands, remove the rear plug from the brake adjusting access hole (Fig. 3).
(2) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and hold the adjusting lever away from the
notches of the adjusting screw.
BRAKE DRUM R E M O V A L
Removing the Front Brake Drums
To aid in the brake drum removal loosen the brake
star adjusting wheel (Fig. 3).
(1) With the vehicle on a hoist, jack or suitable
stands remove the rear plug from the brake adjusting
access hole.
(2) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and push the adjusting lever away from the
star adjusting wheel. Care should be taken not to bend
the adjusting lever.
(3) Insert Tool C-3784 into the brake adjusting hole
and engage the notches of the brake adjusting star
wheel. Release the brake adjustment by prying up
Fig.
3—Adjusting
the
Brakes
MyMopar.com
(3) Insert Tool C-3784 into the brake adjusting hole
and engage the notches of the brake adjusting screw.
Release the brake by prying up with the adjusting
tool.
(4) Remove the rear wheel and the clips from the
wheel studs that hold the drums on the axle. Remove the drum.
(5) Inspect the brake lining for wear, shoe alignment or contamination from grease or brake fluid.
-ANCHOR PLATE
CABLE GUIDE
CAUTION: Install cylinder piston clamps, Tool
- C-416 to prevent fluid leakage or air entering the
hydraulic system during brake shoe removal.
(WHS
S
BIAKE SHOE IEMOVAL
Removing
CABLE'
LEVER-
the Front Brake Shoes
With the vehicle elevated on a hoist, jack or suitable stands, remove the front wheels and drums.
(1) Using Tool C-3785 remove the brake shoe return springs (Fig. 4).
(2) Remove the brake shoe retainer, spring and
nails (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove the anchor pin plate.
(4) Remove the primary and secondary brake shoe
assembly from the support. Install wheel cylinder
clamps, Tool C-416 to hold the pistons in the cylinder.
(5) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and
secondary brake shoes and remove the adjusting star,
adjusting lever, adjusting spring, cable and cable
guide.
Removing
the Rear Brake
NAIL
Shoes
(1) With the vehicle elevated on a hoist, jack or
suitable stand, remove the rear wheel, and the drum
retaining clips. Remove the drum.
RETAINER
NK494
Brake Shm
Fig. 5—Removing
Spring
Retainer,
and Pins -
(2) Using Tool C-3785 remove the brake shoe return springs (Fig. 6).
(3) Remove the brake shoe retainer, spring and
nails (Fig. 7).
(4) Remove the anchor pin plate and tilt the brake
shoe assembly out from the brake support.
(5) Spread the anchor ends of the primary and secondary shoes and remove the parking brake strut and
spring.
(6) Disengage the parking brake cable from the
parking brake lever and remove the brake assembly.
(7) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and
secondary shoes and remove the adjusting star, adjusting lever, adjusting spring, cable and cable guide.
Cleaning
and Inspection
Wipe or brush clean (dry) the metal portions of
SPECIA
i_
.. •
• I
#
ml
63x593A
NK492
Fig. 4—Removing
or Installing
Shoe Return Springs
the Brake
(Front)
Fig
6—Removing
or Installing
Return
Springs
the Brake
Shoe
(Rear)
MyMopar.com
- S E R V I C E BRAKES
*
F i g . 7 — B r a k e Assembly
(Rear)
the brake shoes. Examine the lining contact pattern
to determine if the shoes are bent. The lining should
show contact across the entire width, extending from
heel to toe. Shoes showing contact only on one side
should be replaced. Shoes having sufficient lining but
lack of contact at toe and heel should be measured
for proper grind.
Clean the support, using a suitable solvent, then
inspect for burrs. Remove burrs, then apply a light
coat of lubriplate to the brake shoe contact area.
Clean the threads of the adjusting screws, then inspect for pulled or stripped threads.
Grinding
Recommendations
Brake Shoe Lining—New lining should be measured and ground .060" to .080" (maximum) under the
drum diameter.
Drum Refacing—Measure the drum runout with an
accurate gauge. Drum runout should not exceed .006
inch out of round. If the drum runout is in excess of
.006 inch, (total indicator runout) the drum should be
refaced. Remove only as much material as is necessary
to clean up the drum. Do not reface more than .060
inch over the standard drum diameter.
Brake Shoe Installation
Installing the Front Brake
Shoes
To install the front brake shoes, refer to Figure 1,
and proceed as follows:
(1) Match a primary with a secondary brake shoe
and place them in their relative position on a work
bench.
(2) Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw
and install it between the primary and secondary
shoes with the star wheel next to the secondary shoe.
(Fig. 1). The star adjusting wheels are stamped "R"
X,
Fig. 8-—Removing
J
r-^'^^B
or Installing
>
5-7
63x595A
the Brake
Shoes
(right side) and " L " (left side), and indicate their location on the vehicle.
(3) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and the
secondary brake shoes and install the adjusting spring
and lever.
(4) Spread the anchor ends of the brake shoes to
maintain the adjusting lever and spring in position.
(5) Holding the brake shoes in their relative position, place the brake shoe assembly on the support
and over the anchor pin (Fig. 8).
(6) Install the retainer nails, cups, springs and retainers.
(7) Install the anchor pin plate.
(8) Install the cable guide in the secondary shoe
and place the "eye" of the adjusting cable over the
anchor pin.
(9) Using Tool C-3785 install the return spring into
the primary shoe.
(10) Install the secondary return spring.
(11) Place the adjusting cable over the guide and
engage the hook of the cable into the adjusting lever.
(12) Lubricate the wheel bearings and install the
brake drum and adjust the wheel bearing to the proper preload.
(13) Adjust the brakes as described previously.
Installing the Rear Brake
Shoes
(1) Inspect the platforms of the support for nicks
or burrs. Apply a thin coat of lubricant to the support
platforms.
(2) Attach the parking brake lever to the back
side of the secondary shoe (Fig. 7).
(3) Place the secondary and a primary shoe in theii
relative position on a work bench.
(4) Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw and
install i t between the primary and secondary shoes
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5-8
SERVICE BRAKES
with the star wheel next to the secondary shoe. The
star adjusting wheels are stamped "R" (right side)
and " L " (left side), and indicate their location on the
vehicle.
(5) Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and the
secondary brake shoes and install the adjusting spring
and lever.
(6) Holding the brake shoes in their relative position and engage the parking brake cable into the parking brake lever.
(7) Install the parking brake strut and spring between the parking brake lever and the primary shoe
(Fig. 8).
(8) Place the brake shoes on the support and install
the retainer nails, springs and retainers.
(9) Install the anchor pin plate.
(10) Install the "eye" of the adjusting cable over
the anchor pin and install the return spring between
the primary shoe and the anchor pin.
(11) Install the cable guide in the secondary shoe
then install the secondary return spring.
(12) Place the adjusting cable in the groove of the
cable guide and engage the hook of the cable into the
adjusting lever.
(13) Install the brake drum and retaining clips. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(14) Adjust the brakes as described previously.
air being drawn into the system. Bleed intermittently
by opening and closing the valve about every four
seconds. This causes a swirling action in the cylinder
and assists in expelling the air. Continue the action
until the brake fluid is expelled in a solid stream, without any bubbles.
Continue this bleeding operation on the other
wheels, starting with the left rear wheel, then the
right front and finishing with the left front wheel.
If necessary, repeat this bleeding operation if there
is any indication (a low, soft or spongy brake pedal)
of air remaining in the hydraulic system. Readjust
the brakes as described previously.
Test for Fluid
Contamination
To determine if contamination exists in the brake
fluid (as indicated by swollen or deteriorated rubber
cups), the following tests can be made.
(1) Place a small amount of the drained brake fluid
into a small clear glass bottle. Separation of the fluid
into distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content.
(2) Add water to the contents and shake. If the contents become milky, oil is present. If the contents remain clear, it is not contaminated with mineral oil.
CAUTION: Be safe and discard old brake fluid that
has been bled from the system. Fluid drained from
the bleeding operation may contain dirt particles
or other contamination and should not be reused.
BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Clean all dirt and foreign material from the cover
of the master cylinder to prevent any dirt from falling into the master cylinder reservoir when the cover is removed.
Using the one man bleeder tank C-3496 (with adaptor C-3494A) provides a convenient means of keeping the master cylinder full while pressurizing the hydraulic system for bleeding. The brakes may also be
bled manually by having an assistant slowly pump the
brake pedal while the brakes are being bled. Be certain to refill the master cylinder after bleeding each
wheel.
Tighten the brakes of each wheel until the brakes
are locked. (This reduces the movement of the wheel
cylinder cups and assists in bleeding.)
Starting with the right rear wheel clean all dirt
from the bleeder valve. Place bleeder hose C-650 on
the bleeder valve and insert the other end of
the bleeder hose into a clean jar half filled with clean
brake fluid. (This will permit the observation of air
bubbles as they are being expelled from the hydraulic
system and also prevent air from being drawn back in
to the system as the brake pedal is released on manual bleeding.) Follow the manufacturers instructions
in the use of the bleeder tools.
When manually bleeding the hydraulic system, push
the brake pedal down and let it return slowly, to avoid
MASTER CYLINDER SERVICING
(1) Disconnect the push rod from the pedal.
(2) Disconnect the brake tube at the master cylinder outlet.
(3) Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the master cylinder to the dash panel. Slide the master cylinder straight out and away from the dash panel.
(4) Remove the push rod return spring.
Disassembly
(Fig. 9)
Clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly,
then drain all the brake fluid.
(1) Remove the piston stop flange attaching screws
and remove the dust boot, push rod and piston assembly. (Do not remove the push rod from the piston.)
(2) Remove the brass washer between the piston
and the cup. Remove the master cylinder primary cup,
spring valve and seal from the master cylinder.
(3) Wash the master cylinder bore with clean fluid
and inspect for scoring or pitting.
If the master cylinder piston is badly scored or
corroded, replace it with a new one. The primary
and secondary cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning the master cylinder.
Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or
show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with
crocus cloth. However, cylinders that have deep
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SERVICE BRAKES
5-9
scratches or scoring may be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more
than .002 inch. A master cylinder bore that does not
clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new
cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder wall
are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)
Use extreme care in cleaning the master cylinder
after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean
lintless cloth and clean a second time with alcohol.
Dry the master cylinder with compressed air then
flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure the .028 inch
diameter hole compensator port in the master cylinder bore is open.)
(3) Install the secondary cup on the master cylinder piston and install the piston and push rod assembly in the cylinder with flat brass washer between the
piston and the primary cup.
(4) Install the dust boot on the push rod and install
the stop flange screws.
Assembly
With all the brake drums removed inspect the wheel
cylinder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. (A
slight amount of fluid on the boot may not be a leak,
but may be preservative oil used on the assembly.)
(1) In the case of a leak, remove the brake shoes
(replace i f soaked with grease or brake fluid), boots,
piston wheel cylinder cups and wheel cylinder cup expansion spring.
(2) Wash the wheel cylinder bore with clean fluid
and inspect for scoring or pitting. Use extreme care
in cleaning the wheel cylinder after reconditioning.
Before assembling, the piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in clean brake fluid. To reassemble the master cylinder, (Fig. 9) then proceed as
follows:
(1) Install the seal check valve and spring in the
cylinder with the valve toward the outlet of the cylinder.
(2) Install the master cylinder cup in the cylinder
with the open end of the cup over the closed end of
the return spring.
Installation
(1) Reinstall the master cylinder on the firewall and
fill with brake fluid. Tighten nuts to 100 inch pounds.
(2) Attach the brake line and the pedal push rod.
(3) Bleed the brake system as described previously.
WHEEL CYLINDER S E R V I C I N G
•BOLT
COVER
CONNECTOR
PRIMARY CUP
SECONDARY
CUP
NK136
Fig. 9 — M a s t e r Cylinder
Assembly
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5-10
SERVICE BRAKES
Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with
alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and clean
a second time with alcohol. Dry the cylinder with air
pressure, then flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure
bleeder screw port and screw are clean and open.)
Wheel cylinder bores or pistons that are badly
scored or corroded should be replaced. The old piston
cups should be discarded when reconditioning the
wheel cylinders.
Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show
signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus
cloth, using a circular motion. However, cylinders
that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed,
using Tool C-3080, providing the diamater of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch.
NOTE: A cylinder that does not clean up at .002
inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are
caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)
Should inspection reveal the necessity of installing
a new wheel cylinder (front or rear), proceed as follows:
(1) Disconnect the brake hose from the brake tube
at the frame bracket (front wheels) or, disconnect
the brake tube from the wheel cylinder (rear wheels).
(2) Disconnect the brake hose from the wheel cylinder (front wheels only) and remove the wheel cylinder attaching bolts, then slide the wheel cylinder out
of the support.
Disassembly
If the wheel cylinders were not disassembled before
removal, (Fig. 10) then proceed as follows:
(1) Remove the boots and push rods.
(2) Press in on one end of the cylinder and force
out the piston, cup, piston spring, cup and piston.
Assembly (Fig. 1 0)
NOTE: Before assembling the pistons and new cups
in the wheel cylinder, dip them in brake fluid. If
the boots are deteriorated, cracked or do not fit
tightly on the brake shoe push rod, as well as the
wheel cylinder casting, new boots should be installed.
(1) Wash the wheel cylinder with alcohol and blow
dry with air.
(2) Install the expansion spring in the cylinder. Install the wheel cylinder cups in each end of the
cylinder with the open end of the cups facing each
other.
(3) Install the wheel cylinder pistons in each end
of the cylinder with the recessed end of the pistons
facing the open ends of the cylinder.
(4) Install the boots over the ends of the cylinder.
Keep the assembly compressed with the aid of a
brake cylinder clamp until the brake shoes are assembled.
Installation
(1) Slide the wheel cylinder into position in the
support. Install attaching bolts and tighten securely.
(2) Apply sealing putty around the wheel cylinder
to prevent any water or dirt from entering the brake
assembly.
BRAKE CYLINDER-FRONT
HOUSING
PUSH ROD
PISTON
CUP
SPRING
\
Vv l i t
11A
4-"
BOLT
HOUSING
BLEED SCREW
BRAKE CYLINDER-REAR
Fig. 10—Wheel Cylinder
Assembly
(Front and
NK506
Rear)
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SERVICE BRAKES
5-11
(3) Connect the brake tube to the wheel cylinder
and tighten to 95 inch pounds (rear wheels) or connect
the brake hose to the wheel cylinder (front wheels),
and tighten to 25 foot pounds, before connecting
the brake hose to the frame bracket.
CAUTION: Should the hose be connected to the
wheel cylinder last, the tightening of the hose into
the wheel cylinder will twist the hose, which can
result in suspension or tire interference.
BRAKE SUPPORT S E R V I C I N G
Fronf
Support Removal
(1) Disconnect the brake line from the brake hose
at the frame bracket.
(2) With the wheel and brake drum and shoes removed, remove the four support attaching nuts and
washers.
(3) Remove the support assembly from the spindle.
Rear Support Removal
(1) With the wheel, brake drum and shoes removed,
remove the support attaching nuts and washers.
(2) Remove the rear axle shaft and retainer.
(3) Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from the
wheel cylinder.
(4) Disengage the brake cable from the parking
brake lever.
(5) Using a suitable tool compress the three flared
legs of the cable retainer and pull the brake cable out
of the support (Fig. 11).
(6) Remove the brake support from the rear axle
housing.
Front Support Installation
(1) With the brake shoes installed on the support,
apply a small amount of a putty type sealing material
around the back side of all holes and openings of the
support to prevent any water or dirt from entering
Fig. 12—Wheel
Stud Nut Tightening
Sequence
the brake assembly.
(2) Place the support on the spindle support and install the attaching bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten
the bottom nuts to 80 foot pounds and the top nuts to
55 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Connect the brake hose to the wheel cylinder
and tighten to 25 foot pounds, before connecting the
brake hose to the frame bracket.
(4) Install the brake drum and wheel bearings. Adjust the bearings. Bleed and adjust the brakes.
Rear Support Installation
(1) Install the support on the rear axle housing
flange.
(2) Insert the rear axle shaft and retainer into the
housing then install the retainer nuts and washers.
Tighten the retainer nuts to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Install the brake shoes on the support and then
apply a small amount of putty type sealing material
around the back side of all holes and openings of the
support to prevent any water or dirt from entering
the brake assembly.
(4) Attach the brake line to the wheel cylinder and
tighten to 95 inch-pounds.
(5) Insert the parking brake cable into the support
plate and attach the cable to the parking brake lever.
(6) Install the brake drum and wheel. Bleed and
adjust the brakes.
Wheel Stud Tightening
The tightening sequence and torquing of the wheel
stud nuts is of great importance to insure efficient
brake operation. The use of an impact or long handled wrench may distort the drum.
Fig. 1 h—Removing
Brake Cable from
Support
A criss-cross tightening sequence should be used
(Fig. 12). Tighten all the stud nuts to one-half the
specified torque first (30 ft. lbs.), and then repeat the
sequence tightening to the specified 55 foot-pounds.
MyMopar.com
5-12
PARKING BRAKESBRAKE HOSE A N D TUBING
Inspection
The flexible hydraulic brake hose should always be
installed in the vehicle by first tightening the female
end of the hose in the wheel cylinder or rear axle
housing tee. The hose is then clipped to the hose
bracket in a manner to give minimum twist. Excessive twist can result in hose interference problems
with possible hydraulic system failure.
Inspection of brake hose and tubing should be included in all brake service operations. The hoses
should be inspected for:
(1) Correct length, severe surface cracking, pulling,
scuffing or worn spots. (Should the cotton fabric casing of the hose be exposed to weather by cracks or
abrasions in the rubber hose cover, eventual deterioration of the hose can take place with possible failure.)
(2) Faulty installation. Always use factory recommended hose to insure quality, correct length and
superior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make
sure that the tube and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. New copper seal
washers should be used and the tube nuts and connections are properly made and tightened. Double
wall steel tubing should always be used.
Care should be taken when replacing brake tubing, to use the proper bending and flaring tools and
to avoid routing the tubes against sharp edges, moving components or in hot areas. A l l tubes should be
properly attached with recommended retaining clips.
Steel tubing is used to conduct hydraulic pressure
to the front and rear brakes. Flexible rubber hose
is used at both front brakes and at a rear axle junction block. Steel tubing is used from the junction
block to both rear wheel cylinders. A l l fittings, tubing
and hoses should be inspected for rusted, damaged
or defective flaring seats. The steel tubing is equipped
with a double flare or inverted seat to provide more
positive seating in the fitting.
Replacement
or Repair
(1) Using Tool C-3478, cut off the damaged seat or
damaged tubing (Fig. 13).
(2) Ream out any burred or rough edges showing
on inside edges of tubing. This will make the ends of
the tubing square and insure better seating of the
flared end of the tubing. Place compression nut on
tubing prior to flaring tubing.
Fig.
13—Cutting
and Flaring
Steel
Tubing
(3) To flare tubing open handles of flaring Tool
C-3838 and rotate jaws of tool until the mating jaws
of tubing size are centered in the area between vertical posts.
(4) Slowly close handles with tubing inserted in
jaws but do not apply heavy pressure to handle as
this will lock tubing in place.
(5) Place gauge "Form A " on edge over end of
tubing and push tubing through jaws until end of tubing contacts the recessed notch of gauge matching
the size of tubing.
(6) Squeeze handles of flaring tool and lock tubing
in place.
(7) Place proper sized plug of gauge " A " down
in end of tubing. Swing compression disc over gauge
and center tapered flaring screw in recess of disc.
(8) Lubricate taper of flaring screw and screw in
until plug gauge has seated on jaws of flaring tool.
This action has started to invert the extended end of
the tubing.
(9) Remove gauge and apply lubricant to tapered
end of flaring screw and continue to screw down until tool is firmly seated in tubing.
(10) Remove tubing from flaring tool and inspect
seat.
PARKING BRAKES
BRAKE PEDAL
Description
The parking brake pedal assembly used (Fig. 14) on
Imperial models is pedal applied but is released by a
vacuum chamber. When the engine is started and vac-
uum is developed, energy is then available to release
the parking brake. This is controlled by the transmission shift lever. When the transmission is in neutral
position the lever attached to the gearshift tube
slide closes a valve (Fig. 16) mounted on the steering
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PARKING BRAKES
-
5-13
DASH PANEL
SCREW A N D WASHER
64
Fig. ? 4 — P a r k i n g Brake
column, this stops the vacuum to the vacuum release
chamber and there is no action of the parking brake
pedal.
When the shift lever is moved (forward or reverse)
the lever is released permitting the vacuum control
valve to open and actuate the vacuum release chamber. In the event of engine failure and no vacuum,
the brake may be released by a manual release lever
mounted on the left side of the parking brake pedal
assembly. This assembly prevents the vehicle from
being driven with the parking brake in the applied position.
FRONT CABLE->
Pedal
x
308
(Imperial!
The independent rear brake cables are attached to
an intermediate cable by "C" type brackets (Fig. 15).
The cable is adjusted at the equalizer clamp at the
center of the intermediate cable.
The rear wheel service brakes also act as parking
brakes on Chrysler models. The brake shoes are mechanically operated by a lever and strut connected to
a flexible steel cable. The wheel brake cable are joined
together by an equalizer, which in turn is connected
to a forward brake cable extending to the parking
brake pedal (Figs. 17 and 18) and release handle.
TO VACUUM CHAMBER-
EQUALIZER-
VACUUM
RELEASE-
BRAKE
VALVE
TO INTAKE
MANIFOLD
ADJUSTING NUT
REAR CABLE
NEUTRAL
^ B U T T O N SLIDE
/
BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH
63x597
63 x 600 A
Fig. 15—Forking Brake Coble
Routing
(Imperial)
Fig. 16—Vacuum
Brake
Release
Valve
MyMopar.com
5-14
PARKING BRAKES-
SERVICE PROCEDURES
PARKING BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTMENT
IMPORTANT: The service brakes must be properly
adjusted before adjusting the parking brake.
(1) Release the parking brake lever and loosen the
cable adjusting nut to be sure the cable is slack (Fig.
15 or 17).
(2) Tighten the cable adjusting nut until a slight
drag is felt while rotating the wheel, loosen the cable
adjusting nut until both rear wheels can be rotated
freely, then back off the cable adjusting nut two full
turns.
(3) Apply the parking brake several times, then release and test to see that the rear wheels rotate freely
without dragging.
(3) Remove the retaining clip from the brake cable
frame bracket and remove the cable assembly.
(4) Remove the brake drum from the rear axle.
(5) Remove the brake shoe return springs.
R E M O V I N G THE REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
Should it become necessary to remove the parking
brake cable (rear), for installation of a new cable, refer to Figure 15 or 17.
(1) With the vehicle jacked up or on a suitable
hoist, remove the rear wheels.
(2) Disconnect the brake cable from the equalizer
bracket.
Fig.
17—Parking
Brake
Cable
Routing
(Chrysler)
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POWER B R A K E S — B E N D I X
(6) Remove the brake shoe retaining springs.
(7) Remove the brake shoe strut and spring from
the brake support and disconnect the brake cable from
the operating arm.
(8) Compress the retainers on the end of the brake
cable housing and remove the cable from the brake
plate (Fig. 11).
INSTALLING THE REAR P A R K I N G
BRAKE CABLE
NOTE: When installing a new brake cable, lubricate the cable with short fibre grease at the contact
points.
(1) Insert the brake cable and housing into the
brake support plate, making certain that the housing
retainers lock the housing firmly into place.
(2) Holding the assembled brake shoes in place on
the brake support, engage the brake cable into the
brake shoe operating lever.
(3) Install the brake shoe retaining springs and
the brake shoe return springs.
(4) Install the brake drum and the wheel.
(5) Insert the brake cable and the housing into the
cable bracket and install the retaining clip.
(6) Insert the front end of the brake cable into the
equalizer of the intermediate cable.
(7) Adjust the service brakes and the parking brake
cable.
R E M O V I N G THE FRONT P A R K I N G
BRAKE C A B L E
(1) Disengage the front cable from the equalizer
and using a screw driver force the cable housing
5-15
and retaining clip out of the-framencrossmember.
(2) Disengage the cable housing from the underbody mounting bracket (Figs. 15 or 17).
(3) Raise the floor mat or carpet and remove the
rubber grommet holding the cable housing into the
floor pan.
(4) Depress the parking brake pedal, pulling the
cable through the housing so that when the pedal is
released, the cable may be disengaged from the clevis.
(5) Using a screwdriver pry the housing out of the
mounting bracket and retaining clip.
(6) Pull the parking brake cable and housing up
out of the floor pan.
INSTALLING THE FRONT P A R K I N G
BRAKE C A B L E
(1) Insert the parking brake cable down through the
floor pan.
(2) Install the cable housing into the underbody
mounting bracket.
(3) Insert the end fitting of the cable into the parking brake clevis and force the housing and retaining
clip into the pedal bracket assembly. (Refer to Figure
14 or 18.)
(4) Insert the cable through the crossmember and
force the housing and retaining clip into the crossmember.
(5) Attach the cable to the equalizer and adjust
the parking brake cable.
(6) Apply the brakes several times and test for
free wheel rotation.
(7) Test the operation of the vacuum release valve
(Fig. 16). (Imperial only.)
P O W I R BRAKE—BENDIX
Description
The tandem diaphragm type power brake used on
Imperial Models (Fig. 19) is a self contained vacuum
hydraulic power braking unit. It is of the vacuum suspended type which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its power. This type
of unit does not require a vacuum reservoir.
The Bendix Power Brake Unit can be identified by
the crimped edge method of attaching the housing
and cover together.
The basic elements of the vacuum unit are as follows:
(a) The vacuum power chamber consists of a front
and rear shell, a center plate, front and rear diaphragm, hydraulic push-rod and a vacuum diaphragm
return spring (Fig. 19).
(b) A mechanically actuated control valve integral
with the vacuum power diaphragms, controls the degree of power brake application or release in accordance with the foot pressure applied to the valve operating rod through the brake pedal linkage.
The control valve is of a single poppet type valve
with the atmospheric port and a vacuum port. The
vacuum port seat is a part of the valve body attached
to the diaphragm assembly. The atmospheric port is
a part of the valve plunger which moves within the
valve housing and vacuum power diaphragm assembly.
(c) A hydraulic master cylinder which contains all
of the elements of the standard brake master cylinder
except for the special hydraulic push rod which is a
part of the power brake.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the hydraulic
push rod.
MyMopar.com
5-16
POWER
BRAKES—BENDIX
MyMopar.com
POWER B R A K E S — K E L S E Y HAYES
5-17
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Removal
(1) Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder.
(2) Disconnect the vacuum line from the check
valve.
(3) From under the instrument panel, remove the
push rod nut and bolt from the power brake and brake
pedal.
(4) From under the instrument panel remove the
four brake unit attaching nuts and washers.
(5) Withdraw the brake unit and master cylinder
assembly from the brake support bracket.
(6) Remove the four master cylinder attaching
nuts and washers and remove the master cylinder
from the power brake.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the brake
booster as this unit will be serviced by the Manufacturer's Service Station.
Installation
(1) Install the master cylinder on the power brake.
(2) Insert the brake push rod through the brake
support and install the four attaching washers and
nuts.
(3) Install the push rod attaching bolt and nut
through the push rod and brake pedal.
(4) Attach the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Attach the brake line to the master cylinder.
(6) Fill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.
(7) Inspect the adjustment of the stop light switch.
POWER BRAKE—KELSEY HAYES
Description
The power brake, used on Chrysler Models (Fig. 20),
is a combined vacuum and hydraulic unit which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric
pressure to provide power assisted application of the
vehicle brakes.
The Kelsey Hayes Power Brake Unit can be identified by the twist lock method used in locking the
housing and cover together, and by the white colored
vacuum check valve assembly.
The power unit provides lighter pedal pressure.
This lighter pressure is obtained in combination
with a reduced pedal travel, which makes it possible
to bring the pedal down to the approximate height of
the accelerator pedal which at closed throttle condition. Thus the driver, after closing the throttle, can
shift his toe from one pedal to the other without lifting his heel from the floor.
The power brake, which is a self contained unit,
eliminates all external rods and levers, and mounts on
the engine side of the dash panel.
The power brake is externally connected to the
brake system at three points. The unit is connected by
a pedal push rod to the brake pedal, by a vacuum line
to the intake manifold (through a vacuum check
valve) and a hydraulic tube from the master cylinder
to the wheel units.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Removal
(1) With the engine turned off, apply the brakes
CHECK VALVE
MOUNTING STUDS (4)
MASTER CYLINDER
HOUSING ASSEMBLY
HOUSING
COVER ASSEMBLY
LOCK^
NK495
fig.
20-—Power
Brake
(Kelsey
and Master
Hayes)
Cylinder
several times to balance the internal pressure of the
brake.
(2) Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from the
master cylinder.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power
brake check valve.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt that attach the power
brake push rod from the pedal linkage. (Under instrument panel.)
(5) Remove the nuts and washers that attach the
power brake unit to the dash panel.
(6) Remove the power brake and master cylinder
from the vehicle and place on a service bench for further disassembly. Remove the plastic mounting gasket.
Disassembly
To disassemble the power brake, refer to Figures
21 and 31 then proceed as follows:
(1) Remove the master cylinder from the power
brake, (Fig. 22).
MyMopar.com
5-18
POWER B R A K E S — K E L S E Y
HAYES
Fig. 21—Power Broke (Sectional
(2) Remove the master cylinder push rod and air
cleaner plate (Fig. 23).
(3) Install engine lifting fixture C-3804 on two of
the unit mounting studs. Install flatwashers and nuts
to hold in position.
(4) Install fixture in a vise, scribe a line on both
View)
housing and cover. (To be used at reassembly.)
(5) Pry out the housing lock, using a screwdriver
(Fig. 24). The lock location is on one of the two long
tangs on the housing. Do not bend the lock at removal, as it must be reinstalled at assembly.
(6) Remove the check valve from the cover, by prying out of the rubber grommet.
(7) Place Tool C-3281 over the master cylinder
mounting studs (Fig. 25).
(8) Rotate the tool slowly when removing the cover
^ATTACHING NUTS
NK498
NK497
Fig. 2 2 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
.
Cylinder
the
Master
Fig. 2 3 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Cylinder
the
Master
Push Rod
MyMopar.com
POWER BRAKES—KELSEY HAYES
Fig. 24—Removing
the Housing
5-19
Lock
Fig. 27—Removing
or Installing
the Power
Piston
as it is under spring pressure. Separate the housing
and cover to expose the power piston return spring
and diaphragm (Fig. 26).
(9) Remove the cover and lift out return spring.
(10) Remove the power piston assembly by slowly
lifting straight up, (Fig. 27) then lay aside on a
smooth clean surface. Remove the brake unit from the
engine lifting fixture, Tool C-3804.
(11) Remove the air cleaner, guide seal and the
guide seal retainer from the cover (Fig. 28).
(12) Remove the block seal located i n the center
hole of the housing, using a blunt drift.
Fig. 25—Removing
or installing
the
Cover
. I
F i g . 26—Piston
Return
and
Spring,
Piston
C A U T I O N : Care should be used so as not to scratch
the bore of the housing, which could cause a vacuum leak.
DISASSEMBLING THE POWER PISTON
C A U T I O N : Extreme care should be used when handling the power piston diaphragm and metal parts.
The diaphragm should be kept clean. Grease, oil
and foreign matter can cause a deterioration of the
diaphragm. Protect diaphragm from nicks or cuts.
NK500
Diaphragm
F i g . 28—Removing
or Installing
Seal
and
the Air
Cleaner,
Retainer
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5-20
POWER B R A K E S — K E L S E Y
HAYES
ATTACHING
/ S C R E W S (3)
ALIGNING,
P O I N T S (3)
PISTON
NK503
Fig. 29—Power Piston
Guide
Attaching
Screws
POWER
(1) Remove the power piston diaphragm from the
power piston and lay it aside on a clean shop towel.
(2) Remove the screws that attach the plastic guide
to the plastic power piston (Fig. 29). Remove the guide
and place to one side.
MASTER
CYLINDER
PISTON
N
Fig. 3 0 — C o n t r o l Piston
Snap
K
5
Q
Ring
(3) Remove the power piston square seal ring, reaction ring insert, reaction ring and the reaction plate.
CHECK
VALVE
GUIDE
SEAL
RETAINER
. RUBBER
GROMMET
COVER
or
NUT ( 4 ) AIR CLEANER
ASSY.
RETURN
SPRING
PLATEPUSH R O D
POWER
PISTON SQUARE
SEAL
A
,
R
GUIDE
'tW^T '• *
SEAL
" O " RING
SCREW
C O N T R O L PISTON
ASSEMBLY
SNAP
RING
( 3 ) - - ^
GUIDE
REACTION RING
FELT SEAL
POWER
R E A C T I O N INSERT
BUMPER
CLEANER
RING
4
INSERT'
REACTION
RING'
/
REACTION
PLATE
PISTON
-DUST
BOOT
DIAPHRAGM'
PLASTIC AIR FILTER
BLOCK
^
SEAL
••HOUSING
ASSY.
• H O U S I N G LOCK
Fig. 3 J—Power
Brake
NK2
Assembly
MyMopar.com
— P O W E R
B R A K E S — K E L S E Y HAYES
5-21
If the reaction plate sticks in the power piston, it may
be removed by pushing on the operating rod. D©
not push to© far, as damage to the floating valve can
result.
(9) Install the diaphragm on the power piston, making sure that the diaphragm is seated in the power
piston groove.
(4) Depress the operating rod slightly, then remove the truarc snap ring, using snap ring pliers
(Fig. 30).
(5) Remove the control piston by pulling the operating rod straight out of the power piston.
(6) Remove the " 0 " seal ring from the end of the
control piston.
(7) Remove the filter elements and dust felt from
the control piston rod.
Assembling
Cleaning
and
Inspection
Thoroughly wash all metal parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. The power
diaphragm, plastic power piston and guide, should be
washed in a mild soap solution and water. Blow dust
and cleaning fluid out of all internal passages. A l l rubber parts should be replaced, regardless of condition.
Install new air filters at reassembly. Inspect all parts
for scoring, pitting, dents or nicks. Small imperfections can be smoothed out, using crocus cloth. Replace
all parts that are badly scored, nicked or damaged.
When reassembling, be sure that all rubber parts are
well lubricated with silicone grease, except the diaphragm and the reaction ring.
Assembly
the Power
Brake
Components
(1) With the housing blocked to prevent bending,
drive the block seal into the housing, using Tool
C-3205 (Fig. 32).
(2) Install a new cover seal on the retainer and lubricate thoroughly inside and out with silicone grease,
then install in the cover bore (Fig. 28). Install a new
air filter.
(3) Install the check valve in a well lubricated grommet in the cover (Fig. 24).
(4) Reinstall the engine lifting bracket Tool C-3804
and clamp in a vise.
(5) Apply silicone grease to both sides of the bead
(outer edge) of the power piston diaphragm.
(6) Insert the power piston assembly into the housing with the operating rod down (Fig. 27).
(7) Install the power piston return spring in the
flange of the guide.
(8) Place the cover over the return spring and press
down on the cover, and at the same time lead the
guide through the seal. (Be sure the scribe lines
marked on the housing and cover are aligned when
the parts are locked together.)
(Fig. 31)
(1) Install the control piston " 0 " ring on the control piston and lubricate with silicone grease.
(2) Lubricate the control piston assembly with silicone grease and insert into the power piston. Install
the tru-arc snap ring in its groove, using snap ring
pliers (Fig. 30). Wipe all lubricant off the end of the
control piston.
(3) Slide the air filter elements and felt seal over
the push rod and down past the retaining shoulder on
the rod. Install the power piston square seal ring in
its groove.
(4) Install the reaction plate in the power piston,
aligning the three holes with those in the power piston (Fig. 29).
(5) Place the rubber reaction ring in the reaction
plate. Do not lubricate this ring.
(6) Lubricate the outer diameter of of the reaction insert with silicone grease and install in the reaction ring.
(7) Install the reaction insert bumper into the
guide. Several small spots of silicone grease will hold
the bumper in position while the guide is being installed into the power piston.
(8) Place the guide on the power piston, aligning
the holes with the aligning points on the power piston
(Fig. 29). Install the retaining screws and tighten from
80 to 100 inch pounds. (Remove any resulting chips.)
SUPPORT B L O C K
\|
NK505
Fig. 3 2 — I n s t a l l i n g the Block Seal in the
Housing
MyMopar.com
5-22
POWER B R A K E S — M I D L A N D ROSS
(9) Rotate the cover to lock it to the housing (Fig.
25). Be sure the diaphragm is not pinched during the
assembly of the unit.
(10) Install the housing lock on one of the long
tangs of the housing (Fig. 24).
IMPORTANT: The lock will not be satisfactory if
installed incorrectly. If installed on one of the short
tangs, the unit could become unlocked with use.
(11) Remove the unit from the vise and remove
Tool C-3804 lifting fixture.
(12) Install the master cylinder push rod and air
cleaner plate, then install the master cylinder on
the studs. Install the attaching nuts and washers.
Tighten to 200 inch pounds.
pressure on the pedal and start the engine. I f the power system is functioning properly, the pedal will fall
away slightly.
Vacuum
Leak in the Holding
Positions
With the transmission in neutral or park position,
stop the engine while holding a moderately heavy
load steadily on the brake pedal. After 1 minute, release and apply the pedal several times. If there is no
vacuum assist during this test, but the system was
normal during test number 1 above, there is an air
leak within the unit. Some units on this test will leak
air internally if the pedal load is light. This is a
normal condition.
Installation
(1) Reinstall the dash panel to power brake seal.
(2) Position the power brake unit on the dash panel,
then install the attaching nuts and washers. Tighten
to 200 inch pounds.
(3) Install the bolt that connects the power brake
push rod with the brake pedal linkage. Install the nut
and tighten to 30 foot pounds.
(4) Connect the vacuum hose to the unit and connect the hydraulic brake tube. Tighten securely.
(5) Refill the master cylinder reservoir and bleed
the brakes.
(6) Readjust the stoplight switch if necessary.
(7) Test the power brake unit as follows:
Hydraulic
Leak
Depress the brake pedal with light effort while the
engine is running, maintaining constant pressure. I f
the pedal falls noticeably in one minute, the hydraulic
system is leaking.
If the pedal has a spongy feel when applying the
brakes, air may be present in the hydraulic system.
Road test the brakes by making a brake application at about 40 m.p.h. to determine if the vehicle
stops evenly and quickly.
If the system tests are satisfactory and the brake
pedal travels to within 1 inch of the floor pan, the
brake shoes will require an adjustment or replacement.
POWER BRAKE TESTS
Vacuum
Leak in the Released
Position
With the transmission in neutral or park position,
stop the engine and wait 1 minute. Apply the brake
several times. Each application should provide less
and less pedal travel, following normal depletion of
reserve vacuum.
The number of applications on reserve vacuum
assist will depend on how hard the pedal is pressed
and how far the pedal moves. If vacuum assist is not
present, an air leak is indicated.
Unit
Operation
After depleting the reserve vacuum, place light foot
POWER BRAKE
Description
The Midland Ross Power Brake (Fig. 33) is located
on the engine side of the dash panel. The forward
cover of the vacuum cylinder supports the master cylinder.
Actuation
System
Tests
(1) Test for free operation and return of the brake
pedal. If binding exists, check all pivot points for
binding and lubricate or free up as required.
(2) Test the stoplight switch for proper setting and
operation.
(3) Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
(4) Inspect the vacuum line and connections at the
intake manifold, and the vacuum check valve for possible vacuum leaks.
(5) Adjust the engine for good stall free idle and
correct as required for vacuum leaks.
MIDLAND ROSS
The Midland Ross Power Brake unit can be identified by a clamp and screw method of attaching the
housing to the cover.
The power brake derives its power from the intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure. It
does not require a vacuum reservoir.
MyMopar.com
POWER B R A K E S — M I D L A N D ROSS
5-23
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Removal
(1) With the engine turned off, apply the brakes
several times to balance the internal pressure of the
brake.
(2) Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from the
master cylinder.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power
brake.
(4) From under the instrument panel, remove the
nut and attaching bolt from the power brake push
rod and brake pedal linkage.
(5) Remove the four power brake attaching nuts
and washers.
(6) Remove the power brake and master cylinder
from the vehicle and place on a service bench for
further disassembly.
Disassembly
and remove the master cylinder.
(2) Scribe an aligning mark across the joint of the
front and rear portions of the brake assembly. This
will insure alignment on reassembly.
(3) Remove the dust boot from the push rod.
(4) Remove the filter, filter retainer and cover.
(5) Working from the front of the unit, push the
outer lip of the bellows assembly into the vacuum
chamber (Fig. 35).
(6) Remove the clamp band securing the front
cover to the front of the rear housing.
(7) Using a plastic or rubber hammer tap the outside edge of the rear vacuum housing and separate
the housings.
(8) Remove the large snap ring from the rear seal
retainer (Fig. 36). Remove the diaphragm, valve
(Fig- 34)
BELLOWS
(1) Remove the four master cylinder attaching nuts
CLAMP BAND
FRONT
COVER
CHECK VALVE A N D VACUUM
/
HOSE CONNECTOR
ML
v
mm
DUST BOOT
MASTER CYLINDER
POWER U N I T '
64x287 A
Fig. 3 3 — P o w e r Brake
and Master
Cylinder
64x288
(Midland-Ross)
Fig. 35—Unseating
CHECK VALVE
the Bellows
Seal
DIAPHRAGM
TRUARC RING
FRONT CHAMBER
REAR CHAMBER
RETAINING RING
REACTION RING
ATMOSPHERIC VALVE
PLUNGER
REAR COVER
REAR SEAL
RETAINER
LOAD RING
REAR
FRONT COVER
Fig. 34—Power
NK507
Brake
(Sectional.View)
63x1A
Fig. 36—Rear
Seal
Retainer
MyMopar.com
POWER B R A K E S — M I D L A N D ROSS
5-24
BELLOWS
RINGS
RETURN
SPRING
SNAP'
RING
DIAPHRAGM
BELLOWS
RETAINER
63X347
63x599 B
Bellows Retainer
Fig. 37—Removing
Fig. 4§—Removing Valve
CUSHION RING
RETAINING
RING
Retainer
(12) Remove the reaction lever reaction ring and
retainer assembly from the valve body and remove
the levers from the retainer (Fig. 39).
(13) Remove the two plastic rings from the plunger
shaft.
(14) Remove the retaining clip (Fig. 40) from the
plunger shaft, remove the load ring and valve return
spring. Remove the valve (Fig. 41).
(15) Remove the plunger from the valve body.
(16) Remove the plastic rear seal retainer from the
plunger (Fig. 42) The plunger assembly will be serviced as a unit and need not be dismantled further.
Fig. 3 8 — M a s t e r Cylinder
Push Rod
housing assembly and rear seal from the rear housing.
(9) Using a screw driver pry out the large retaining snap ring that retains the bellows to the diaphragm (Fig. 37).
(10) Pull the bellows out of the bellows retainer
and remove the retaining ring from the bellows.
(11) Slide the master cylinder push rod assembly
from the plunger (Fig. 38).
63X348
LEVERS (12)
Fig. 3 9 — V a l v e Body
and Reaction
(17) Using a small screw driver remove the rear
seal from the rear seal retainer. Remove the " 0 " ring
from the outer diameter of the seal retainer (Fig. 42).
(18) Remove the two " 0 " rings and the lip seal
ring from the valve plunger (Fig. 43).
(19) Remove the " 0 " ring from the power piston.
Cleaning
and Inspection
Thoroughly wash all the metal parts in a suitable
r
-PLUNGER
BODY
Levers
Fig. 41—Removing
or Installing
Valve
MyMopar.com
P O W E R B R A K E S — M I D L A N D ROSS
Fig. 42—Rear
Seal
Assembly
solvent and dry with compressed air. The power diaphragm, plastic power piston, and guide should be
washed in a mild soap solution and water. Blow dust
and cleaning fluid out of all internal passages. A l l
rubber parts should be replaced, regardless of condition. Install new air filters at reassembly.
Inspect all parts for scoring, pitting, dents, or nicks,
small imperfections can be smoothed out, using crocus cloth. Replace all parts that are badly scored,
nicked or damaged. Wash all rubber seals in mineral
spirits and air dry, relubricate with silicone grease.
Assembly
(1) Install the " 0 " ring on the power piston.
(2) Install the two "O" rings, and seal on the plunger assembly.
(3) Install rear seal into rear seal retainer with lip
of seal toward small end of retainer.
(4) Install the " 0 " ring on the outside diameter of
the rear seal retainer.
(5) Insert the rear seal retainer assembly into the
hub of the rear cover.
UP SEAL
O-RINGS
5-25
(6) Holding the seal retainer in place invert the
cover over a large socket to support the seal retainer
in place.
(7) Apply downward pressure on the rear cover
and install the retainer ring.
(8) Install plunger assembly into valve body.
(9) Install the valve into the valve body with the
rubber insert contacting the valve seat. Install the
valve return spring over the valve.
(10) Install load ring on plunger, concave face out.
(11) Press downward on the valve body and insert
the spring clip into the groove of the plunger.
(12) Install the reaction ring with the three raised
portions toward the reaction levers, (Fig. 39).
(13) Install the levers and fulcrum ring into the
rubber retainer.
(14) Align the indexing tab with the notch in the
valve body and insert the assembly into the valve
body with the fulcrum ring on the underside.
(15) Install two plastic rings on plunger shaft.
(16) Install the master cylinder push rod onto the
plunger assembly.
(17) Install the bellows into the bellows retainer
and install the retaining ring onto the bellows.
(18) Place the valve body assembly into the detents of the diaphragm and install the bellows and retainer assembly.
(19) Install the bellows retainer snap ring.
(20) Install the diaphragm and valve assembly into
the rear cover.
(21) Align the scribe marks and place the front
cover over the bellows and master cylinder push rod.
(22) Align and squeeze the cover and housing together, install clamp band and tighten clamp bolt.
(23) Pull the lip of the bellows up through the
front housing.
(24) Clean the filter and the breather.
(25) Make sure the master cylinder piston stop and
screw are installed in the lower hole on the master
cylinder mounting face. (Install screw alone in the upper hole.) Install the master cylinder on the power
brake unit, install the four nuts and tighten to 100
inch-pounds.
Installation
PUSH R O D
ASSEMBLY
Fig. 43—Valve
Plunger
64x289
Assembly
(1) Install the power brake unit on the dash panel
then install the attaching nuts and washers. Tighten
securely.
(2) Install the bolt that connects the power brake
push rod with the brake pedal linkage. Tighten securely.
(3) Connect the vacuum hose to the unit and connect the hydraulic brake tube.
(4) Refill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.
Refill the master cylinder after bleeding.
(5) Readjust the stop light switch if necessary.
MyMopar.com
'GROUP 7
COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
Page
DESCRIPTION
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Description
. .
.
.
1
1
3
1
In order to provide satisfactory protection for the
wide variety of corporation models the cooling system of each must be tailored to specific needs. To
do this effectively the Corporation offers three basic
systems:
1. Standard
2. Air Conditioning
3. High Capacity
The standard system consists of a tube and spacer
type radiator, 14 psi radiator pressure cap, centrifugal water pump, 180°F. thermostat, and a four, six
or seven blade fan (Fig. 1). See specifications for application.
The cooling system for air conditioned cars generally requires a greater capacity radiator along with
a fan shroud, 16 psi radiator pressure cap, special
centrifugal water pump, larger fan, and thermostatically controlled fan drive (in some installations). See
SPECIFICATIONS A N D
TIGHTENING REFERENCE . . In Back of M a n u a l
specifications for applications.
The high capacity system, available as optional
equipment to the standard car, is a combination of
the standard and air conditioning systems as necessary to provide protection against overheating for
unusually severe operation requirements.
For internal cooling system protection each cooling
system is factory equipped with sufficient permanent
type anti-freeze for —20°F. protection. It is recommended that the coolant be changed annually to insure adequate anti-freeze and corrosion protection. In
areas where anti-freeze is not required, MOPAR rust
inhibitor must be added to the water coolant for normal corrosion protection. Air conditioned cars require
year round protection with permanent type anti-freeze
with a minimum of + 1 5 ° F . protection for summer
operation and additional anti-freeze in the winter according to the prevailing temperatures.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible C a u s e
Condition
EXTERNAL L E A K A G E
Correction
(a) Loose hose c l a m p .
(a) Replace the hose clamp.
(b) Hose leaking.
(b) Replace the hose.
(c) Leaking radiator.
(c) Repair or replace the radiator as necessary.
(d) Worn or d a m a g e d water pump s e a l .
(d) Replace the water pump s e a l .
(e) Loose core hole plug.
(e) Install new core hole plug.
(f)
(f)
D a m a g e d gasket, or dry gasket, if engine has
Replace gaskets a s necessary.
been stored.
(g) Cylinder h e a d bolts loose, or tightened uneven-
(g) Replace the cylinder h e a d gasket a n d torque
ly(h) Leak at heater connection.
(h) C l e a n the heater connections a n d replace the
(i)
Leak at w a t e r temperature sending unit,
(i)
Tighten the water
temperature
(j)
Leak at water pump attaching bolt.
(j)
Tighten
pump
h e a d in correct sequence.
hoses a n d clamps if necessary.
the water
foot-pounds
(k) S e a l a n d re-drive the stud.
(I)
(I)
(m) Dented radiator inlet or outlet tube.
unit,
bolts
30
torque,
(k) Leak as exhaust manifold stud.
C r a c k e d thermostat housing.
sending
attaching
Replace the thermostat housing,
(m) Straighten
the
radiator
inlet
or outlet tube
as necessary,
(n) Leaking heater core.
(n) Repair or replace the heater core,
(o) C r a c k e d or porous water pump housing.
(o) Replace the water
pump assembly.
MyMopar.com
Condition
EXTERNAL
LEAKAGE
Continued
Correction
Possible Cause
(p) W a r p e d or cracked cylinder h e a d .
(p) Replace the cylinder h e a d ,
(q) C r a c k e d cylinder block.
(q) Replace the cylinder block,
(r) S a n d holes or porous condition in block or h e a d ,
(r)
Replace the cylinder block or cylinder head as
necessary.
INTERNAL
LEAKAGE
(s) Faulty pressure c a p .
(s) Replace pressure c a p .
(t)
(t)
Loose or stripped oil cooler fittings.
(a) Install a new h e a d gasket.
(a) Faulty h e a d gasket.
(b) Refer to causes (f), (g), (p), (q), (r) a n d
(t)
<b) Refer to corrections (f), (g), (p), (q), (r) a n d (t)
listed under External L e a k a g e .
listed under External L e a k a g e .
(c) C r a c k in h e a d into valve
Tighten or replace a s necessary.
compartment.
(c) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder h e a d .
(d) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylin-
(d) C r a c k e d valve port.
der h e a d .
(e) C r a c k in block into push rod
compartment.
(e) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.
(f)
C r a c k e d cylinder w a l l .
(f)
Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.
(g)
POOR CIRCULATION
Leaking oil cooler.
(g) Repair or replace the oil cooler.
(a) Low coolant level.
(a) Fill radiator to correct level.
(b) C o l l a p s e d radiator hose. (A bottom hose with
(b) Replace the hose a n d spring.
faulty spring may collapse only at medium or
high engine speeds.)
OVERHEATING
OR
APPARENT O V E R H E A T .
(c) Fan belt g l a z e d , oil s o a k e d , or loose.
(c) Tighten or replace the fan belt a s necessary.
(d) Air leak through bottom hose.
(d) Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose.
(e) Faulty thermostat.
(e) Replace the thermostat.
(f) W a t e r pump impeller broken or loose on shaft.
(f)
(g) Restricted radiator core water passages.
(g) Flush the radiator thoroughly.
(h) Restricted engine water jacket.
(h) Flush the engine
Replace the water pump impeller assembly.
cooling system
(a) Low coolant level.
(a) Fill radiator to proper level.
(b) Blocked radiator air passages.
(b) Blow out the radiator air passages.
I N G (refer to C a u s e s
(c) Incorrect ignition timing.
(c) Time the engine ignition system.
listed under "Poor
(d) Low engine oil level.
(d) A d d engine oil to the correct level.
Circulation")
(e) Incorrect valve timing.
(e) Correct the engine valve timing.
(f)
(f)
Inaccurate temperature g a u g e .
(g) Restricted overflow tube.
Replace the temperature
thoroughly.
gauge.
(g) Remove restriction from the overflow tube.
(h) Faulty radiator pressure c a p or seat.
(h) Replace the radiator c a p .
(i)
Frozen heat control valve,
(i)
Free up the manifold heat control valve,
(j)
Dragging brakes.
(j)
Adjust the brokes.
(k)
Excessive engine idling.
(k) Stop engine.
(I)
Frozen coolant.
(I)
Thaw out cooling system, a d d antifreeze
as
required,
OVERFLOW LOSS
(m) Faulty fan drive unit.
(m) Replace the fan drive unit,
(n) Faulty temperature sending unit.
(n) Replace the sending unit.
(a) Refer to causes listed under "Poor Circulation
(a)
and Overheating/
7
(b) Overfilling.
(c) Coolant foaming
Refer to corrections under "Poor
Circulation
and Overheating/'
(b) Adjust coolant to the correct level.
due to insufficient corrosion
inhibitor.
(c)
Flush the radiator a n d a d d MoPar
antifreeze
or rust inhibitor as required.
(d) Air leak at bottom radiator hose.
(d) Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose.
(e) Blown h e a d gasket.
(e) Replace the head gasket.
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Possible C a u s e
Condition
Correction
(a) Use of water containing large concentration of
CORROSION
(a) Use only c l e a n soft water.
lime a n d minerals.
(b) Low coolant level.
(b) Fill the cooling system to the correct level.
(c)
(c> Use M o P a r antifreeze or rust inhibitor a s required.
Insufficient corrosion inhibitor.
(d) Use of antifreeze for extended length of time.
(d) Drain cooling system a n d replace with
new
antifreeze.
(e) Failure to use corrosion inhibitor in summer.
(e) Flush radiator a n d refill with clean soft w a t e r
a n d rust inhibitor.
(f) Air leak at bottom radiator hose.
(f)
R e p l a c e the hose a n d / o r hose clamps.
TEMPERATURE T O O
(a) Faulty thermostat.
(a) R e p l a c e the thermostat.
L O W - S L O W ENGINE
(b) Inaccurate temperature g a u g e .
(b) R e p l a c e the temperature g a u g e .
W A R M UP
(c)
(c) Replace the sending unit.
W A T E R PUMP N O I S Y
Faulty temperature sending unit.
(a) S e a l noisy.
(a) A d d 202
(b) Bearing c o r r o d e d .
(b) Replace bearing s e a l a n d
MoPar W a t e r Pump Lube.
impeller.
A C C E S S O R Y BELT DRIVES
INSUFFICIENT A C C E S -
(a) Belt too loose.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
S O R Y O U T P U T DUE T O
(b) Belt excessively g l a z e d or worn.
(b) Replace a n d tighten a s specified.
BELT S L I P P A G E
BELT S Q U E A L
WHEN
(a) Adjust belt tensions.
Replace belt.
(a) Belt too loose.
A C C E L E R A T I N G E N G I N E (b) Belt g l a z e d .
BELT S Q U E A K A T IDLE
(b)
(a) Belt too loose.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Dirt a n d paint imbedded in belt.
(b) R e p l a c e belt.
(c)
(c) Replace belt.
Non-uniform
belt.
(d) Misaligned pulleys.
(d) Align accessories (file brackets or use s p a c e r s
(e) Non-uniform
(e) R e p l a c e pulley.
a s required.)
groove or eccentric pulley.
(a) R e p l a c e belt.
Install matched belt.
BELT ROLLED O V E R IN
(a) Broken cord in belt.
GROOVE
(b) Belt not matched ( A / C ) .
(b)
(a) Belt too loose.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
BELT J U M P S O F F
(b) Belts not matched ( A / C ) .
(b) Install matched belt.
(c) Misaligned pulleys.
(c) Align accessories.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
THERMAL C O N T R O L F A N DRIVE
The thermal control drive (Fig. 2) is a silicone fluid
filled coupling connecting the fan to tfre fan pulley.
A thermal spring on the drive face senses the heat
from the radiator and engages the drive for normal
fan operation when required.
In case of engine overheating during slow vehicle
speed or idle operation, increase the engine speed to
approximately 1000 rpm in neutral gear. If the condition is not corrected by increasing the engine speed,
replace the fan drive unit with a unit known to be
operating properly and test by operating the vehicle
under the same conditions. Replace the original drive
unit assembly if the trouble was corrected with the
test unit.
WATER PUMP
Removal
(Fig.
3)
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Remove the upper
half of the fan shroud on Air Conditioning Models
Only.)
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7-4
C O O L I N G SYSTEM'
,OUTLET ELBOW
BOLT
THERMOSTAT
TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT
BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER
SPACER
PULLEY
SHAFT A N D
BEARING
NY72B
BOLT A N D LOCKWASHER
HOUSING
GASKET
nuuoim,
SLINGER
/
Fig. I — S t a n d a r d Fan Drive
Fig. 3—383,413
and 426 Cubic
Water
Inch
Engine
Pump
metal insert, as shown in Figure 4.
(2) Remove the impeller metal insert using a chisel
and hammer.
NOTE: The shaft and bearing assembly do not
have to be removed to service a leaking pump. The
shaft and bearing assembly should be very carefully
inspected to be sure the pump leak has not damaged the bearing.
?0.
- - <~'.»
NK479
Fig. 2 — t h e r m a l Control Fan Drive
(2) Loosen the power steering pump, idler pulley
and alternator. Remove all belts.
(3) Remove the fan, spacer and pulley. On Air Conditioning Models, remove the pulley from the water
pump fan hub. Loosen all nuts from the fan to remove the fan drive.
(4) Remove the bolts attaching the water pump
body to the housing and remove the water pump.
(3) Remove the rubber portion of the shaft seal
and the spring.
(4) Using Tool C-3753, remove the seal retainer
from the housing.
(5) Remove the fan hub with Tool C-412.
(6) Support the body on the fan hub end and press
out the shaft and bearing assembly.
SHAFT A N D BEARING
ASSEMBLY
Installation
(1) Install the water pump body on the housing,
using a new gasket.
(2) Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque. Install the pulley, spacer and fan. (On Air Conditioning Models, assemble the fan to the fan drive and
pulley, and attach the assembly to the water pump.)
(3) Tighten the nuts to 15 foot-pounds torque. Install the upper half of the fan shroud, run the engine, and test for leaks.
Disassembly
/
PLASTIC IMPELLER; /.
KN142
(Fig. 3)
(1) Support the pump body on the hub and remove
the impeller by breaking the plastic away from the
Fig. 4—Removing
the Plastic
Impeller
&
Metal
Insert
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C O O L I N G SYSTEM
CAUTION: The shaft and bearing assembly can be
removed only in the direction described. If an attempt is made to remove the shaft in the opposite
direction, damage to the water pump body may result.
NOTE; The bearing and hub assemblies removed
from water pumps for any reason should not be
used again because damage to bearings and hub
usually result during removal.
(7) Clean all parts thoroughly. Remove rust from
the housing with a wire brush.
Assembly
(Fig. 3)
NOTE: Inspect the seal surface of the impeller hub
to be sure it is free of nicks, burrs, scratches and
rust. If necessary remove these blemishes using
crocus cloth on a flat plate.
(1) Apply a thin coat of MoPar Perfect Seal Sealing Compound, Part Number 1057794 to the seal pocket in the pump body.
(2) With the pump housing supported at the hub
end, use a 1 A inch (12 point) socket to apply pressure against the outer lip of the seal retainer and
press the seal assembly into the body until the retainer lip is against the pump body.
(3) With the slinger ring in position on the long
end of the pump shaft (approximately Vs inch from
the bearing assembly) start the shaft and bearing assembly into the fan hub end of the pump body bore.
(4) Use a 1V4 inch (12 point) socket and support
the pump body at the seal end. With Tool C-3468 positioned against the outer bearing race, press the shaft
and bearing into the pump body so the end of the
bearing is exactly flush with the end of the pump
body.
(5) While supporting the pump on the impeller end
of the shaft, press the fan hub onto the shaft (flat
surface out) so that shaft extends /a2 inch through the
fan hub.
(6) Support the pump on the fan hub end of the
shaft and position the new impeller on the pump shaft
(blade portion up). Using a tool that will press against
the impeller insert only, press the impeller onto the
shaft until it is flush with the end of the shaft.
X
11
IADIATO!
Removal
(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) On vehicles with automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler lines at the radiator bottom
tank.
(3) Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses (using pliers Tool C-3250).
(4) On vehicles with a fan shroud, remove the lower
half of the fan shroud.
(5) Remove the radiator attaching screws.
7-5
(6) The radiator can now be lifted free from the
engine compartment. Care should be taken not to
damage the radiator cooling fins or water tubes during the removal.
Installation
(1) Slide the radiator down into position behind
the radiator support and install the attaching bolts.
(2) Install the fan shroud, connect the hoses, and
connect the transmission oil cooler lines.
(3) Fill the cooling system to 1 % " below the filler
neck seat with water and rust inhibitor or water and
anti-freeze, as required. After warm-up, re-check
coolant level.
(4) On vehicles with automatic transmission, measure the transmission oil level after warm-up and
add oil as required.
Cleaning
(1) Drain the cooling system and refill with clean
SOFT water and add the contents of one can (No. 1
top-compartment of MoPar Cooling System Cleaner).
(2) Operate the engine at a fast idle for V2 to %
hour.
(3) Drain the cooling system and refill with clean
water.
(4) Pour the conditioner (No. 2 bottom-compartment) into the radiator and run engine for ten
minutes.
(5) Flush the entire cooling system until the water
runs clean.
(6) Refill the radiator with clean SOFT water.
(7) Use MoPar Radiator Rust Inhibitor during the
summer months.
TRANSMISSION OIL C O O L E R
The transmission oil cooler is located in the bottom
radiator tank, which is an integral part of the radiator.
In case of a leak, the engine coolant may become
mixed with the transmission fluid, also, the transmission fluid may enter the cooling system. Both the
cooling system and the transmission should be inspected in the event the cooler is leaking.
Testing
Oil Cooler
for
Leaks
(1) Disconnect both oil cooler lines at the radiator.
(2) Connect a pressure gauge to one cooler connection and a shut off valve to the other. Close the
valve.
(3) Connect a source of air pressure to the valve.
(4) Coat all fittings with oil.
(5) Open the valve and apply (up to 100 psi) air
pressure. Oil bubbles will identify any fitting joint
leaks. Repair all joint leaks.
(6) Close the valve. The gauge reading will then
drop i f the cooler is leaking inside of the lower
radiator tank.
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7-6
COOLING SYSTEM'
Repairing
the Oil
Cooler
(1) Remove the radiator frofn the vehicle,
(2) Remove the radiator lower tank.
(3) Melt the soft solder holding the cooler to the
tank.
(4) Remove the stamped retainer nuts holding the
cooler fittings to the bottom tank and remove the cooler.
(5) Install a new cooler or repair the old cooler
with silver solder and reinstall as follows:
(6) Position the oil cooler in the bottom tank and
install the stamped retainer nuts on the oil cooler
fittings.
(7) Use soft solder to secure the cooler in the tank.
(8) Attach the bottom tank to the radiator using
soft solder.
(9) Install the radiator as described in Paragraph
"Radiator."
(10) Fill the cooling system and test for leaks.
If the transmission operates properly after repairing the leak, drain the transmission and torque converter while hot, remove the transmission oil pan and
inspect for sludge, rust, dirty or plugged inlet filter.
If none of these conditions are found reconditioning
may not be necessary. Reassemble the transmission.
Fill the transmission using Transmission Fluid, AQATF, Suffix "A."
(2) Install a flushing gun, Tool C-3514, or other
suitable flushing gun in the radiator lower outlet.
(3) Fill the radiator and turn on the air in short
blasts.
CAUTION: Do not apply more than 15 psi pressure
when pressure flushing a radiator, as damage to the
. radiator may result.
(4) Continue this procedure until the water runs
clean. Refill the cooling system.
(5) Run the engine and test for leaks.
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat is actuated by a pellet containing
a copper-impregnated wax (Fig. 5). As the temperature of the pellet increases, the wax expands and
opens the valve. A 180° thermostat is standard equipment.
TOWARD J RADIATOR..-
REVERSE FLUSHING THE C O O L I N G SYSTEM
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air
pressure, in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water.
PELLET
NK533
Fig.
Flushing
Cylinder
Block
(1) Drain the radiator and remove the hoses at
the radiator.
(2) Remove the thermostat and reinstall the thermostat housing.
(3) Install flushing gun, Tool C-3514, or other suitable flushing gun to the inlet hose.
(4) Connect the water hose of the gun to a pressure
water source and the air hose of the gun to a pressure air source.
(5) Turn on the water, and when the cylinder block
is filled, turn on the air in short blasts.
(6) Allow the cylinder block to fill between the
blasts of air.
(7) Continue this procedure until the water runs
clean. Test the thermostat and if satisfactory, reinstall; otherwise, replace, using anew housing gasket.
(8) Refill the cooling system and test for leaks.
Reverse Flushing
the Radiator
(1) Drain the cooling system and remove the hoses
from the engine.
S—Thermostat
If the thermostat does not close completely when
cold, the engine will warm up slowly or not at all,
and heater performance will also be impaired. Poor
heater performance may also be due to the valve opening at too low a temperature. Too high a valve
opening temperature or a valve that will not open
can cau^e overheating.
Removal
(1) Drain the cooling system down to the thermostat level or below.
(2) Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing using pliers Tool C-3250.
(3) Remove the thermostat housing bolts and remove the thermostat and housing.
Testing
Thermostat
(1) Visually inspect the thermostat to make sure
the valve closes tightly. If the valve does not close
completely due to dirt, sand or other foreign material,
carefully clean the sealing edge making sure the sealing edge is not damaged. If the valve does not close
tightly when clean, install a new thermostat.
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C O O L I N G SYSTEM
(2) Immerse the thermostat in a container of warm
water so that the pellet of the thermostat is completely covered. The pellet must not touch the bottom
or sides of the container.
(3) Heat the water and stir it continuously (to insure uniform temperature) and test the water temperature with a thermometer at the point when a .003"
feeler gauge can be inserted into the valve opening.
The feeler gauge should pass freely into the valve
opening at a water temperature of 175° to 185°F.
If outside of this range, replace the thermostat.
(4) Continue heating the water to approximately
200 °F. The thermostat valve should be fully open at
this temperature. I f it does not, replace the thermostat.
7-7
up p r e s s u r e f o e s c a p e "Through the overflow tube.
This will prevent the hot water from spraying out
of the radiator filler opening.
TESTING THE RADIATOR C A P
Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter
from the kit, Tool C-3499. Slip the seal on the tube at
the bottom of the instrument. Attach either end of
the short adaptor to the instrument. Dip the pressure
cap in water and apply the cap to the end of the
adapter. Working the plunger, as shown in Figure 7,
Installation
(1) Using a new gasket, position the thermostat so
the pellet end is toward the engine and attach with
bolts through the thermostat housing.
(2) If removed, reinstall or replace the upper hose
using Tool C-3250.
(3) Fill the cooling system to VA inches below the
filler neck with water and rust resistor or water and
antifreeze.
RADIATOR HOSES
The hoses are removed and installed using hose
clamp pliers Tool C-3250.
A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose
should be replaced.
The reinforcement spring inside the lower hose is
necessary to prevent collapsing of the hose due to
suction at medium or high engine speeds. I f this spring
is weak or broken, it should be replaced.
RADIATOR PRESSURE C A P
Radiators are equipped with a 14 psi cap, as standard equipment and 16 psi with air conditioning, as
shown i n Figure 6. Always note the identification
number on the cap when replacing.
Fig. 7—Testing
the Pressure
Cap
bring the pressure to 14 pounds on the gauge. If the
pressure cap fails to hold the pressure within a range
of 12 to 15 pounds, replace the cap with a new tested
cap. I f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning,
the cap should test between 15 to 16 psi.
The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap should
hang freely. I f the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap.
PRESSURE TESTING THE C O O L I N G SYSTEM
(1) Wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat clean.
The water level should be V% inch below the neck of
the radiator:
(2) Attach the tester, Tool C-3499 to the radiator,
as shown in Figure 8 and apply 15 pounds pressure.
WARNING: When removing the pressure cap, turn
counter-clockwise to the stop, permitting the built-
GASKET
64 x 186
Fig. 6 — R a d i a t o r Pressure
Cap
Fig. 8—Pressure
Testing
the Cooling
System
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7-8
COOLING SYSTEM'
If the pressure drops inspect all points for external
leaks.
WARNING: Pressure builds up fast. Any excessive
amount of pressure built up by continuous engine
operation, must be released to a safe pressure point.
NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO E X C E E D 15
LBS.
(3) If there are no external leaks, after the gauge
dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester and
run the engine to operating temperature in order to
open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand.
Re-attach the tester and pump to 7 lbs. pressure while
the engine is running. Race the engine, and if the
needle on the dial fluctuates it Indicates a combustion
Jeak, usually a head gasket.
(4) Remove the wires from the spark plugs on one
bank and operate the engine on the opposite bank.
If the needle continues to fluctuate it indicates a
leak on the bank still in operation. If the needle ceases
to fluctuate, the leak is in the bank, the combustion
has been released from.
Fig.
9—Belt
(5) If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate race
the engine a few times and if an abnormal amount of
water emits from the exhaust system at the tail pipe,
it may indicate a leak that can be a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block, or the cylinder head near
the exhaust ports.
(6) If the above pressure test of the cooling system
holds the pressure as outlined above, then there is
no leak, however, there may be internal leaks which
can be determined by removing the oil dipstick and
if water globules appear intermixed with the oil it
will indicate a serious internal leak in the engine. If
there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled, the leak located and necessary new parts
installed.
ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE G A U G E
For removal, Installation and Testing procedures of
the water temperature sending and receiving units,
refer to "Gauges," Group 8, "Electrical."
Locations
ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES
PROPER BELT TENSION
The satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories (Fig. 9) depends on the maintenance of the
proper belt tension. There are two methods by which
belt tensions can be properly established. "The Torque
Method" and "The belt Deflection Method." If the
specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage
may cause engine overheating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced
belt life. To avoid any such adverse effects, the following service procedure should be followed:
* Ad just all belts to the specified "belt in use" tension at new vehicle preparation. The new belt tension
specifications should be used on all belt replacement,
and the above procedure followed thereafter.
Jerque
Method
All alternator and power steering pump belts can
be adjusted to the specified tension by use of a
torque wrench. The power steering belts are tightened by using Tool C-3832 and torque wrench Tool
C-3005. The alternator belts are adjusted by using a
special Tool C-3841 and torque wrench Tool C-3005.
The special tool should be hooked at the heavilyribbed section of the alternator rectifier end shield.
Other belts can also be tightened by this method if
the adjusting bracket has a square hole. To tighten
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C O O L I N G SYSTEM
belts by the torque method, loosen all mounting bolts
and apply the specified torque to the accessory or idler. Tighten all mounting bolts while the torque is
applied to the accessory. I f it is not possible to use
the torque wrench because of clearance, use an extension.
Belt
Deflection
Method
A l l belts can also be adjusted by measuring the deflation of the belt at the mid-point between two pulleys under a five-pound push or pull. A small spring
scale can be used to establish the five-pound load. See
Figure 9 for correct location at which to measure defletion.
7-9
This method should be used only when it is not
possible to use the torque method. To adjust the belts
by the deflection method, loosen all mounting bolts
and use a bar to apply tensions to the belts being
careful not to damage the accessory. A V2 inch square
drive hinge handle can be used i f the accessory has a
square hole. Tighten the mounting bolts and test
the deflection. (See Specifications.) It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to establish the correct tension.
*Any belt that has operated for a minimum of a
half-hour is considered a "belt in use."
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GROUP 8
ELECTRICAL
CONTENTS
Page
Page
BATTERY
1
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
WINDSHIELD WIPERS—HORNS
STARTING MOTOR-REDUCTION GEAR TYPE . .
7
ALTERNATOR A N D V O L T A G E REGULATOR . . .
18
POWER EQUIPMENT
IGNITION SYSTEM
35
W I R I N G DIAGRAMS
LIGHTING SYSTEM
48
SPECIFICATIONS
52
62
.
69
81
In Rear of M a n u a l
PART 1
BATTERY
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
BATTERY TESTING CHART
Hydrometer Test
State of
(Corrected to 8 0 ° F.)
Charge or
See Paragraph 2
Battery Condition
LESS THAN 1.220
Battery low.
Correction
Recharge battery. Make a high rate discharge
SP. G R .
test for capacity. If cells test O.K., recharge
and adjust gravity of all cells uniformly. Test
voltage regulator setting. Thoroughly test electrical system for short circuits, loose connections a n d corroded terminals.
CELLS S H O W M O R E
Short circuit in low cell.
THAN 25 POINTS (.025
Loss of electrolyte by leakage or excessive over-
Battery/' See "Adjustment of Acid Gravity."
Specific Gravity)
charge.
Test battery for capacity. Install new battery
Improper addition of a c i d .
if necessary.
VARIATION
Try to recharge the battery. See "Charging the
Natural or premature failure.
Cracked case.
CELLS SHOWING MORE
Satisfactory.
No
correction
required
make
a
high
rate
THAN 1.220 SPECIFIC
discharge capacity test, if cells test O.K., adjust
GRAVITY.
gravity of all cells uniformly.
Cranking Test
Correction
Possible C a u s e
IF THE VOLTAGE DROP IS
Poor contact between the cable terminal a n d the
Locate the high resistance: repair or replace a s
MORE THAN 0.3 VOLTS
vehicle frame or between the cable clamp termi-
necessary.
(3/10) BETWEEN THE
nal a n d the battery post or the starter switch con-
STARTING MOTOR CABLE
tacts. Frayed, corroded or broken cable.
A N D THE VEHICLE FRAME
WHILE C R A N K I N G L O O K
FOR:
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8-2
ELECTRICAL—BATTERY-
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BATTERY VISUAL INSPECTION
(1) Protect the paint finish with fender covers.
(2) Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
(3) Remove the battery hold-down clamp and remove the battery from the vehicle.
(4) Inspect the battery carrier and fender side panel for damage caused by loss of acid from the battery.
(5) Clean the top of battery with a solution of clean
warm water and baking soda. Scrub areas with a stiff
bristle brush being careful not to scatter corrosion
residue. Finally wipe off with a cloth moistened with
ammonia or baking soda in water.
CAUTION: Keep cleaning solution out of battery
cells to eliminate weakening the electrolyte.
(6) Inspect the cables. Replace damaged or frayed
cables.
(7) Clean the battery terminals and the inside surfaces of the clamp terminals with the Cleaning Tool
MX-75.
(8) Examine the battery case and cover for cracks.
(9) Install the battery.
(10) Tighten the battery hold-down screw nuts to 3
foot-pounds torque.
NOTE: Observe the polarity of the terminals of battery to be sure the battery is not reversed.
(11) Connect the cable clamps to the battery posts
and tighten securely. Coat all connections with light
mineral grease or petrolatum after tightening.
(12) If the electrolyte level is low, fill to recommended level with mineral-free water.
Gravity."
In reading a hydrometer, the barrel must be held
vertically and just the right amount of fluid be drawn
up into the gauge barrel with the pressure bulb fully
expanded to lift the float freely so that it does not
touch the sides, top or bottom of the barrel. Take a
reading with eye on level with liquid in barrel. DO
NOT TILT hydrometer.
The specific gravity of the battery electrolyte
strength or density varies not only with the quantity
of the acid in solution but also with temperature. As
temperature increases, the volume of the electrolyte
expands and the specific gravity is reduced. As temperature drops, the electrolyte contracts and specific
gravity increases.
Specific gravity variations caused by temperatures
must be considered in the analysis of the battery,
otherwise specific gravity readings will not give a
true indication of the state of charge.
Use a battery immersion type thermometer of the
mercury-in-glass type, having a scale reading as high
as 125°F and designed for not over a 1-inch bulb immersion. A suitable dairy type thermometer may
prove satisfactory for the purpose.
Draw electrolyte in and out of the hydrometer barrel several times to bring the temperature of the hydrometer float to that of the acid in the cell and then
measure the electrolyte temperature in the cell.
T«mparalur«
°F.
Gravity Point*
to A d d or
Subtract
SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST
A hydrometer Tool 40-B is used to measure the
specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery cells.
This gives an indication of how much unused sulphuric acid remains in the solution.
A hydrometer should be graduated to read from
1.160 to 1.320, in graduations of .005 specific gravity.
The graduated markings should be not less than Vie
inch apart and accurate to within .002 specific gravity. The graduated portion of the stem should be
about two inches long. Clearance between the float and
glass barrel, at the smallest diameter, should be a
minimum of Vfe" around all sides and the barrel must
be clean.
NOTE: Hydrometer floats are calibrated to indicate
correctly only at one fixed temperature.
The liquid level of the battery cell should be at
normal height and the electrolyte should be thoroughly mixed with any battery water which may have
just been added by charging the battery before taking
any hydrometer readings. See "Adjustment of Acid
HK525
Fig. 7 — H y d r o m e t e r Reading
Correction
Chart
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ELECTRICAL—BATTERY
The- temperature correction in •specific gravity reading at 80° Fahrenheit is zero. Add .004 specific gravity
points for every 10° degrees over 80° F. and subtract
.004 specific gravity points for every 10 degrees under 80° F. A l l readings must be corrected to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Refer to Figure 1 and examples one
and two as follows:
Example 1—
Hydrometer Reading
1.260
Acid Temperature . . . . . . . 20 degrees Fahrenheit
Subtract Specific Gravity
.024
Correct Specific Gravity is
1.236
Example 2—
Hydrometer Reading
1.255
Acid Temperature . . . . . . 100 degrees Fahrenheit
Add Specific Gravity
.008
Corrected Specific Gravity is
1.263
A fully charged relatively new battery has a specific gravity reading of 1.260 plus .015 minus .005 (all
batteries for use in temperate climates).
ADJUSTMENT O F ACID GRAVITY
Hydrometer floats usually are not calibrated below
about 1.160 specific gravity and cannot indicate the
condition of a battery in a very low state of charge.
Therefore, it may be necessary to give the battery
several hours charge before a hydrometer reading
will indicate that the battery is taking a charge.
If the specific gravity of all cells are not within .015
points of the specified value, corrected to 80°F, at the
end of a full charge, remove some of the electrolyte
with the hydrometer and add a like amount of distilled water to reduce the gravity i f too high, or add
1.400 Specific Gravity acid to raise the specific gravity, i f too low. Continue the charge so as to give the
electrolyte a chance to mix and then read the gravity
after another hour of charge to note the effect of the
additions. Continue this adjusting procedure until the
gravity is brought to the desired value by charging
for one hour after each adjustment.
Never adjust the specific gravity of any battery cell
which does not gas freely on charge. Unless electrolyte has been lost through spilling or leaking, it
should not be necessary to add acid to a battery during its life. Acid should never be added unless one is
certain that the cell will not come up to normal gravity by continued charging. Always make the temperature correction for hydrometer readings, as warm
electrolyte will read low and this might be mistaken
for failure of the battery to rise normally in gravity.
It could also be falsely concluded that the battery
would not take a full charge.
8-3
battery equals or exceeds 1.220 specific gravity at
80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the reading is below 1.220
the battery should be slow charged until fully charged
in order to secure proper test results.
Test
Procedure
(1) Turn the control knob of the battery starter
tester to the O F F position.
(2) Turn voltmeter selector switch to the 16 volt
position on test units so equipped.
(3) Connect the test ammeter and voltmeter positive leads to battery positive terminal. Connect the
ammeter and voltmeter negative leads to the battery
negative terminal (Fig. 2).
NOTE: The voltmeter clips must contact the battery posts or cable clamps and not the ammeter
lead clips.
(4) Turn control knob clockwise until ammeter
reading is equal to three times the ampere hour rating of the battery.
(5) Maintain this load for 15 seconds; the voltmeter
should read 9.5 volts or more, which will indicate
that the battery has good output capacity.
(6) After the 15 second test, turn control knob to
the OFF position.
If the voltage in the "High Rate Discharge Test"
was under 9.5 volt, the battery should be test charged
to determine whether the battery can be satisfactorily
charged.
Charging
the
BATTERY
Three Minute Charge Test (Fig. 3)
NOTE: This test should not be used if battery temperature is below 60 degrees F.
(1) Connect the positive ( + ) battery charger lead to
HIGH RATE D I S C H A R G E TEST O F
BATTERY C A P A C I T Y
Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only when
Fig.
2—High
Rate
Discharge
Test
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8-4
ELECTRICAL—BATTERY'
NY 8 3 8 A
F i g . 3 — T h r e e Minute
the battery positive terminal and negative (—) battery charger lead to the battery negative terminal.
IMPORTANT: Be sure of correct polarity when
charging batteries.
(2) Trip the battery charger power switch to the
ON position. Turn the charger timer switch past the
three minute mark then back to the three minute
mark.
(3) Adjust the charge switch to the highest possible rate not exceeding 40 amperes.
(4) When the timer switch cuts off at the end of 3
minutes, turn the timer switch back to fast charge.
(5) Use the 4 volt scale of the battery starter tester
voltmeter on test units so equipped and quickly measure the voltage across each cell while the battery is
being fast charged. A faulty cell or cells will be detected by a cell voltage variation of more than 1 volt.
(6) If the cell voltages are even within .1 volt, use
the 16 volt scale of the battery starter tester and
measure the total voltage of the battery posts while
the battery is being fast charged. If the total voltage
during charge exceeds 15.5 volts, the battery is sulphated and should be cycled and slow-charged until
the specific gravity reaches 1.260 (See "Slow Charging").
NOTE: A slow charge is preferable to bring the bat-
Charge
Test
Fast Charging
the Battery (Fig. 4)
If adequate time for a slow charge is not available,
a high rate (FAST) charge is permissible and will give
a sufficient charge in one hour enabling the battery
and alternator to continue to carry the electrical
load.
Connect the positive ( + ) battery charger lead to the
battery positive terminal and the negative (—)
charger lead to the battery negative terminal. If the
battery is not removed from the vehicle, BE SURE
the ignition switch is turned off and all electrical accessories are turned off during charging.
tery up to a full charge.
If the specific gravity remains constant after testing battery at one hour intervals for three hours, the
battery is at its highest state of charge.
(7) Make another capacity test. If the capacity test
does not meet specifications, replace the battery.
NY839A
Fig. 4—Fast
Charging
the
Battery
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•ELECTRICAL—1ATTEIY
CAUTION: The battery can be damaged beyond
repair unless the following precautions are taken:
(1) The battery electrolyte temperature must NEVER exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.
If this temperature is reached, the battery should
be cooled by reducing the charging rate or remove
the battery from the circuit.
(2) As the batteries approach full charge the electrolyte in each cell will begin to gas or bubble. Excessive gassing must not be allowed.
(3) Do not fast charge longer than one hour.
If the battery does not show a significant change
in specific gravity after one hour of "FAST" charge,
the slow charge method should be used.
Remember to use the temperature correction when
checking specific gravity.
NOTE: The manufacturers of high rate charging
equipment generally outline the precautions and
some models have thermostatic temperature limiting and time limiting controls.
WARNING: When batteries are being charged an
explosive gas mixture forms beneath the cover of
each cell. Do not smoke near batteries on charge or
which have recently been charged. Do not break
live circuits at the terminals of the batteries on
charge. A spark will occur where the live circuit is
broken. Keep all open flames away from the battery.
Slow
Charging
Batteries
Many discharged batteries can be brought back to
good condition by slow charging, especially batteries
that are sulphated.
The battery should be tested with a hydrometer
and a record kept of the readings taken at regular intervals throughout the charge. A voltage test should
also be made, noting the voltage uniformity between
cells. Any subnormal voltage in any cell may indicate
a shorted cell. When a cell has a specific gravity reading that is 25 points (.025) or more below the other
cells, that cell is defective and the battery should be
replaced.
Safe slow charging rates are determind by allow-
8-5
ing one ampere per positive plate per cell. The proper
slow charging rate would be 4 amperes for a 48 ampere hour battery; or 5 amperes for a 59 ampere hour
battery; and 6 amperes for a 70 ampere hour battery.
The rate of charge for a normally discharged battery is one ampere per positive plate per cell.
The average length of time necessary to charge a
battery by the slow charge method at normal rates is
from 12 to 16 hours, however, when a battery continues to show an increase in specific gravity, the battery charge should be continued even if it takes 24
hours or more.
NOTE: Watch the temperature of batteries carefully and if the temperature of any one of them
reaches 110°F., lower the charging rate.
The battery will be fully charged when it is gassing
freely and when there is no further rise in specific
gravity after three successive readings taken at hourly intervals. Make sure hydrometer readings are corrected for temperature.
The rate of charge for a sulphated battery should
be no more than V2 the normal slow charge rate.
Many sulphated batteries can be brought back to a
useful condition by slow charging at half the normal
charging rate from 60 to 100 hours. This long charging cycle is necessary to reconvert the crystalline lead
sulphate into active materials.
Batteries that are sulphated have the following
characteristics:
(1) Battery temperature tends to increase rapidly
while charging.
(2) Gravity under charge increases very slowly or
not at all.
(3) Battery will gas excessively under normal
charging rate.
(4) Excessive voltage required to obtain normal
charging rate.
NOTE: When a battery takes a full charge, but is
returned several times in need of a recharge, check
for a cracked cell partition with a syringe to provide air pressure; bubbles will appear in an adjacent cell if a crack is present.
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8-6
ELECTRICAL—STARTING MOTOR DIAGNOSIS-
PART 2
STARTING MOTOR
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
STARTER FAILS T O
Possible C a u s e
Correction
(a) W e a k battery or d e a d cell in the battery.
(a) Test specific gravity.
(b) Ignition switch faulty.
(b) Test and replace the switch if necessary.
(c) Loose or corroded battery cable terminals.
(c) Clean terminals a n d clamps, replace if neces-
OPERATE
Recharge or replace the battery a s required.
sary. Apply a light film of petrolatum to terminals after tightening.
(d) Open circuit, wire between the ignition—starter
(d) Inspect and test all the wiring.
switch and ignition terminal on the starter relay.
(e) Inoperative clutch unit.
(f)
STARTER FAILS A N D
Faulty starting motor.
(e) Replace the clutch unit.
(f) Test a n d repair as necessary.
(g) Armature shaft sheared.
(g) Test and repair.
(h) O p e n solenoid pull-in wire.
(h) Test and replace the solenoid if necessary.
(a) W e a k battery or d e a d cell in the battery.
(a) Test for specified gravity.
(b) Loose or corroded battery cable terminals.
(b) Clean the terminals and clamps, replace if
LIGHTS DIM
Recharge or replace the battery as required.
necessary. Apply a light film of petrolatum to
the terminals after tightening.
(c) Internal ground in the windings.
(c) Test and repair the starter.
(d) Grounded starter fields.
(d) Test and repair the starter.
(e) Armature rubbing on pole shoes.
(e) Test and repair the starter.
STARTER TURNS, BUT
(a) Starter clutch slipping.
(a) Replace the clutch unit.
PINION DOES NOT
(b) Broken teeth on the flywheel drive gear.
(b) Replace the flywheel ring gear. Inspect the
(c) Pinion shaft rusted, dirty or dry, due to lack of
(c) C l e a n , test and lubricate.
ENGAGE
teeth on the starter clutch pinion gear.
lubrication.
STARTER RELAY D O E S
(a) Battery discharged.
(a) Recharge or replace the battery.
NOT CLOSE
(b) Faulty wiring.
(b) Test for open circuit, wire between the starter
relay ground terminal post and neutral starter
switch (automatic transmission only). Also test
for open circuit; wire between
the
ignition-
starter switch and ignition terminal a n d starter
relay.
(c) Neutral starter switch on automatic transmission
(c) Test and replace the switch if necessary.
faulty.
RELAY OPERATES BUT
(d) Starter relay faulty.
(d) Test and replace if necessary.
(a) Faulty wiring.
(a) Test for open circuit wire between the starter-
SOLENOID DOES NOT
relay solenoid terminal and solenoid terminal
post.
(b) Faulty solenoid switch or connections.
(b) Test for loose terminal connections between the
(c) Solenoid switch contacts corroded.
(c) Test a n d replace the solenoid if necessary.
(d) Broken lead or a loose soldered connection
(d) Test and replace the solenoid if necessary.
solenoid and the starter field.
inside the solenoid switch (brush holder plate).
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STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
P o s s i b S e Co u s e
Condition
S O L E N O I D PLUNGER
Correction
(a) Battery low.
(a) Test for specific gravity of the battery. Replace
(b) Faulty wiring.
(b) Test for loose connections at relay,
or r e c h a r g e the battery.
VIBRATES B A C K A N D
FORTH W H E N
SWITCH
8-7
ignition-
starter switch a n d solenoid.
IS E N G A G E D
(c) Test a n d replace the solenoid if necessary.
(c) L e a d or connections broken inside solenoid
switch cover (brush holder plate) or open
hold-in
STARTER O P E R A T E S
BUT WILL N O T D I S E N -
winding.
(d) C h e c k for corrosion on solenoid contacts.
(d) Test a n d clean the contacts.
(a) Broken solenoid plunger spring or spring out of
(a) Test a n d repair.
position.
G A G E W H E N THE
(b) Faulty ignition-starter switch.
(b) Test a n d replace the switch if necessary.
I G N I T I O N STARTER
(c) Solenoid contact switch plunger stuck in
(c) Remove the contact switch plunger, wipe clean
S W I T C H IS RELEASED
of all dirt, place a film of S A E 10 oil on the
solenoid.
plunger, wipe off excess.
(d) Test a n d repair.
(d) Insufficient c l e a r a n c e between winding leads to
solenoid terminal a n d main contactor in solenoid.
(e) Test a n d replace the relay if necessary.
(e) Faulty relay.
STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
Description
The starting motor has an armature-to-engine
crankshaft ratio of 45 to 1: a 3.5 to 1 reduction gear
set is built into the motor assembly, which is housed
SERVICE
in an aluminum die casting, Fig. 1. The starting motor utilizes a solenoid shift device, the housing of the
solenoid is integral with the starting motor drive end
housing.
PROCEDURES
STARTER RESISTANCE AND
CURRENT DRAW TESTING
(1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity.
Specific gravity should be 1.220 or above. If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to full charge before proceeding with the test.
(2) Disconnect the positive battery lead from the
battery terminal post. Connect an 0 to 30 scale ammeter between the disconnected lead and the battery
terminal post.
(3) Connect a test voltmeter with 10 volt scale division between the battery positive post and the starter switch terminal at the starter solenoid.
(4) Crank the engine and observe the reading on
the voltmeter and ammeter. The voltage should not
exceed .3 volt. A voltage reading that exceeds .3
volt indicates there is high resistance caused from
loose circuit connections, a faulty cable, burned
starter relay or solenoid switch contacts. A current
that is high and is combined with slow cranking
speed, indicates that the starter should be removed
and repaired.
STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT TEST
(1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the
starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to
the battery negative post.
(2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter
switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .2 volt. A reading
of .2 volt or less indicates voltage in the ground cable
and connections is normal. I f the voltmeter reading
is more than .2 volt, it indicates excessive voltage
loss in the starter ground circuit. Make the following
tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating the test at each connection.
(a) Starter drive housing.
(b) Cable terminal at the engine.
(c) Cable clamp at the battery.
A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that
the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.
Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:
Battery ground cable .2 volt
Engine ground circuit .1 volt
Each connection .0 volt
REMOVAL OF STARTING MOTOR
(1) Disconnect the ground cable at the battery.
(2) Remove the cable at the starter.
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i
Fig. J — S t a r t i n g Motor
Cross
Section
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STARTING M O T O R — R E D U C T I O N GEAR TYPE
8-9
(3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire at the solenoid terminals.
(4) Remove the one stud nut and one bolt attaching the starting motor to the flywheel housing, slide
the Automatic Transmission oil cooler tube bracket
off the stud (if so equipped) and remove the starting
motor and housing and removable seal.
TESTING THE STARTING MOTOR
(Bench Test)
Free Running
Test
(1) Place the starter in a vise and connect a fully
charged, 12 volt battery to the starter as follows:
(2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale)
and a carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery
positive post and the starter terminal.
(3) Connect a voltmeter (15 volt scale) across the
starter.
(4) Rotate the carbon pile to the full-resistance position.
(5) Connect the battery cable from the battery
negative post to the starter frame.
(6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage
shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts. The amperage
draw should be as shown i n specifications.
Locked-Res/sfance Tesf
(1) Install the starter in a test bench.
(2) Follow the instructions of the test equipment
manufacturer and test the starter against the following specifications.
(3) With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4
volts, the amperage draw should be as shown in specifications.
Fig. 3—Unsoldering
the Shunt
Coil Lead
Wire
S E R V I C I N G THE STARTING M O T O R
Disassembly
(1) Place the gear housing of the starter in a vise
equipped with soft jaws. Use the vise as a support
fixture only. DO NOT clamp.
(2) Remove the two through bolts and the starter
end head assembly.
(3) Carefully pull the armature up and out of the
gear housing and the starter frame and field assembly. Remove the steel and fiber thrust washer.
NOTE: The wire of the shunt field coil is soldered
to the brush terminal. One set of brushes are connected to this terminal. T h e other pair of brushes
is attached to the series field coils by means of a
terminal screw. Carefully pull the frame and field
assembly up just enough to expose the terminal
screw and solder connection of the shunt field at
the brush terminal. Place two wood blocks between
the starter frame and starter gear housing to facilitate removal of the terminal screw, Fig. 2.
(4) Support the brush terminal by placing a finger
behind the terminal and remove the terminal screw.
(5) Unsolder the shunt field coil lead from the
starter brush terminal, Fig. 3.
NOTE: The starter brush holder plate with the
starter brush terminal, contact and brushes is serviced as an assembly.
Fig. 2—Removing
Terminal
or Installing
Screw
Brush
(6) Remove all old sealer at the brush holder plate
and gear housing.
(7) Unsolder the solenoid lead wire and unwind the
wire from the starter brush terminal (Fig. 4).
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8-10
STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
or winding
Fig. 4—Unwinding
Solenoid
Lead
«0- 6—Solenoid Assembly
the
Removed
Wire
(8) Remove the screw attaching the brush holder
plate to the starter gear housing (Fig. 5).
(9) Remove the nut ( / wrench), steel washer and
insulating washer from the solenoid terminal.
(10) Straighten the solenoid wire and remove the
brush holder plate with the brushes as an assembly.
(11) Remove the solenoid assembly from the gear
housing well (Fig. 6).
(12) Remove the nut, steel washer and the sealing
washer from the starter battery terminal.
(13) Remove the starter battery terminal from the
holder plate.
(14) Remove the solenoid contact and plunger
from the solenoid.
(15) Remove the solenoid return spring from the
well of the solenoid housing moving core.
(16) Remove the dust cover from the gear housing,
(Fig. 7).
n
3 2
Fig. 5—Removing
or installing
Plate
Screw
Brush
Fig. 7—Removing
the Dust
Cover
(17) Release the retainer that positions the driven
gear on the pinion shaft (Fig. 8).
CAUTION: The retainer is under tension and a
cloth should be placed over the retainer to prevent
Holder
Fig. 8—Removing
the Driven
Gear Snap
Ring
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STARTING M O T O R — R E D U C T I O N G E A R TYPE
Fig. 9—Removing
Pinion
or installing
Shaft Retainer
8-11
the
Ring
Fig.
PINION SHAFT
12—Removing
Moving
or Installing
Core
the
it from springing away after removal.
(18) Release the retainer ring at the front of the
pinion shaft (Fig. 9).
NOTE: Do not spread the retainer ring any greater
than the outside diameter of the pinion shaft otherwise the lock ring can be damaged.
(19) Push the pinion shaft towards the rear of the
housing (Fig. 10) and remove the snap ring and thrust
washers, clutch and pinion assembly, with the two
shifter fork nylon actuators as on assembly (Fig. 11).
Fig.
10—Removing the Pinion
Fig.
11—Removing
Clutch
or Installing
Assembly
Shaft
the
Fig. 13—Removing
Shifting
or Installing
the
Fork Pin
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8-12
STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
(20) Remove the driven gear and friction washer.
(21) Pull the shifting fork forward and remove the
solenoid moving core (Fig. 12).
(22) Remove the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig. 13)
and remove the clutch shifting fork assembly.
CLEANING THE STARTER PARTS
(1) Do not immerse the parts in a cleaning solvent.
Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or
armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts
with a clean cloth only.
(2) Do not immerse the clutch unit in a cleaning
solvent. The clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory
and solvent will wash the lubricant from the clutch.
(3) The starter-clutch outer housing and pinion
gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with a
cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.
(4) Unsolder the solenoid lead wires from the
solenoid terminal relay stud.
(5) Clean all corrosion from the solenoid assembly
(washers, sleeve and retainer and inside of the solenoid housing). These metal parts are part of the solenoid hold-in ground circuit and must be clean.
(6) Clean the terminal contacts and contactor with
crocus cloth.
(7) Thoroughly clean the outside area of the brush
plate to remove all oil and dirt.
mutator riser bars with a pair of test lamp test prods.
If the lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature.
Replace a grounded armature.
Testing Commutator
Run-Out,
Refacing and Undercutting
Place the armature in pair of "V" blocks and measure the runout with a dial indicator. Measure both the
shaft and commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout
exceeds .003 inch, commutator should be refaced. Remove only a sufficient amount of metal to provide a
smooth, even surface.
Testing Field Coils for
Ground
(1) Remove the field frame assembly from the
starter.
(2) Carefully drill out the rivet that attaches the
series field coil ground lead and the shunt field coil
lead to the field frame.
(3) Insulate the field coil leads from the field frame.
(4) Test for ground using a 110 volt test lamp.
Touch one probe of the test lamp to the series field
coil lead and the other probe to the field frame. The
lamp should not light. Repeat the procedure for the
shunt field coil.
If the lamp lights, it indicates that the field coils
are grounded and require replacement.
REPLACEMENT O F BRUSHES
A N D SPRINGS
(1) Brushes that are worn more than V2 the length
of new brushes, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced.
(2) When resoldering the shunt field and solenoid
lead, make a strong low resistance connection using
a high temperature solder and resin flux. Do not use
acid or acid core solder. Do not break the shunt field
wire units, when removing and installing the brushes.
(3) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring
scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull the
scale on a line parallel to the edge of the brush and
take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush.
Spring tension should be 32 to 36 ounces. Replace
springs that do not meet specifications.
REPLACING THE FIELD COILS
A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C-3475 should
TESTING ARMATURE
Testing the Armature for Short Circuit
Place the armature in growler and hold a thin steel
blade parallel to the core and just above it, while
slowly rotating the armature in the growler. A shorted
armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace the armature if shorted.
Testing Armature
for
Ground
Contact the armature shaft and each of the com-
REMOVING
Fig. 14—Removing
Pinion Housing
INSTALLING
and installing
End
the
Bushing
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STARTING M O T O R — R E D U C T I O N G E A R TYPE
8-13
surfaces and bushings for wear. Try the bushings for
wear by inserting the shafts and test for side play.
NOTE: Pre-sized starting motor bushings are available as service bushings. Use Tool C-3944 to remove the old bushings and install the new. No
burnishing or reaming is required to fit the presized bushings.
The C-3944 Tool and its adaptors are designed to
service all of the gear reduction motor bushings with
the exception of the end head bushing. The end head
bushing and end head are serviced as an assembly.
Remove and install bushings as shown in Figures
14 through 16.
REMOVING
Fig.
BUSHING
INSTALLING
15—Removing and Installing
Housing
Drive Shaft
the
Pinion
S E R V I C I N G THE
STARTER CLUTCH UNIT
Bushing
be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper
tightening. Pole shoes that are loose and not properly
seated may cause the armature core to rub on the
pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and
damage the armature core.
NOTE: Make sure the area between the leads and
starter frame is clean. Peen new rivet securely to
insure a good electrical contact.
SERVICING THE
STARTING MOTOR I U S H I N G S
Inspect the armature shaft bearing, pinion shaft
Do not immerse the starter clutch unit in a cleaning solvent. The starter clutch is pre-lubricated at the
factory and a solvent will wash the lubricant from the
clutch.
The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear
may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with a cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.
Rotate the pinion. The pinion gear should rotate
smoothly in one direction (not necessarily easily),
but should not rotate in the opposite direction. If the
starter clutch unit does not function properly, or the
pinion is worn, chipped or burred, replace the starter
clutch unit.
REMOVING
INSTALLING
Fig.
16—Removing
Housing
and Installing
Armature
Shaft
the
Bushing
NK76
Pinion
MyMopar.com
4*
WASHER
C S T E E L
Fig. I F — S t a r t e r Motor
(Exploded
*
62x543 B
View)
MyMopar.com
STARTING MOTOR—REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
8-15
Figure 19 shows the correct relation of the parts at
assembly.
N O T E : T h e friction washer must be positioned on
the shoulder of the splines of the pinion shaft before the driven gear is positioned.
(6) Install the driven gear snap ring (Fig. 8).
(7) Install the pinion shaft retaining ring (Fig. 9).
(8) Bend the four (4) Tangs of the coil retainer
"up" to a measurement of / " to / h " above the surface of the retainer (Fig. 20), to ensure higher compression and a more positive ground.
5
8
32
62x214
Fig. 18—Shifter Fork Assembly
ASSEMBLING THE
STARTING MOTOR (Fig. 17)
N O T E : T h e shifter fork consists of two spring steel
plates assembled with two rivets. T h e r e should be
approximately Vie inch side movement as shown in
Figure 18 to insure proper
pinion gear
engage-
ment. Lubricate between the plates sparingly with
S A E 10 engine oil.
(1) Position the shifter fork in the drive housing
and install the shifting fork retainer pin. One tip of
the pin should be straight, the other tip should be
bent at a 15 degree angle away from the housing. The
fork and retainer pin should operate freely after
bending the tip of the pin.
(2) Install the solenoid moving core and engage
the shifting fork, (Fig. 12).
(3) Enter the pinion shaft into the drive housing
and install the friction washer and drive gear.
(4) Install the clutch and pinion assembly, thrust
washer, retaining ring and thrust washer, (Fig. 11).
(5) Complete the installation of the pinion shaft
engaging the shifting fork with the clutch actuators.
N O T E : Space the retainer in the housing bore so
that the four tangs rest on the ridge in the housing
bore and not in the recesses.
(9) Install the starter solenoid return spring into
the bore of the movable core.
(10) Install the solenoid contact seal over the solenoid lead wires, inserting the double wires of the
terminal stud into the large hole (Fig. 6) and the solenoid winding lead wire into the small hole.
N O T E : Inspect the condition of the starter solenoid
switch contacting washer, if the top of washer is
burned from arcing, disassemble the contact switch
plunger assembly and reverse the washer.
(11) Install the solenoid contact plunger assembly
into the solenoid and reform the double wires to allow for proper entry of the terminal stud into the
brush holder with the double wires curved around the
contactor.
C A U T I O N : T h e contactor must not touch the double wires when the solenoid is energized after the
Fig. 20—Checking
Fig. 79—Shifter Fork and Clutch
Arrangement
Height of Solenoid
Retainer
Coil
Tangs
MyMopar.com
8-16
STARTING M O T O R — R E D U C T I O N GEAR TYPE
Fig. 2 1 — A s s e m b l i n g Solenoid
Brush Holder Plote
to the
assembly Is completed (Fig. 6).
NOTE: Make sure the contact spring is positioned
on the shaft of the solenoid contact assembly.
(12) Assemble the battery terminal stud in the
brush holder placing the sealing washer under the
plain washer.
NOTE: Check the condition ©f the contacts in the
brush holder plate. If the contacts are badly
burned, replace the brush holder with brushes and
contacts as an assembly.
(13) Enter the solenoid lead wire through the hole
in the brush holder (Fig. 21) and install the solenoid
stud, insulating washer, flat washer and nut.
NOTE: Use care when installing the solenoid contact seal over the tab on the brush plate to prevent
tearing the seal.
Fig. 23—Installing
the Solenoid
into the Gear
cp.d Brush
Holder
Housing
(15) Carefully enter the solenoid coil and brush
plate assembly into the bore of the gear housing and
position the brush plate assembly into the starter
gear housing. Align the tongue of the ground terminal with the notch in the brush holder (Fig. 23).
(14) Wrap the solenoid lead wire tightly around the
brush terminal post as shown in Figure 22 and solder
securely with a high temperature resin core solder
and resin flux.
Fig. 22—Soldering
the Solenoid
to the Brush
Winding
Terminal
Lead
Fig. 24—Soldering
the Shunt
Coil Lead
Wire
MyMopar.com
STARTING M O T O R — R E D U C T I O N G E A R TYPE
Fig. 2 6 — S e a l i n g the Brush
NK81
Fig. 2 5 — I n s t a l l i n g Starter
Armature
(16) After the brush holder is bottomed in the
housing, install the attaching screw (Fig. 4). Tighten
the screw to 10-15 inch-pounds. Make sure the insulating tape is in position (Fig. 4).
(17) Position the brushes with the armature thrust
washer as shown in Figure 22. This will hold the
brushes out and facilitate proper installation of the
armature.
(18) On starters so equipped, solder the shunt coil
lead wire to the starter brush terminal (Fig. 24).
(19) Install the brush terminal screw (Fig. 2).
(20) Position the field frame to the exact position
on the gear housing and enter the armature into the
field frame and starter gear housing (Fig. 25); carefully engaging the splines of the shaft with the reduction gear by rotating the armature slightly to engage the splines.
(21) Install the thrust washer (fiber) and washer
(steel) on the armature shaft.
(22) Position the starter end head assembly and install the starter frame lockwashers and through
bolts. Tighten the through bolts securely.
Holder
8-17
Plate
(23) Clean the area at the joint between the brush
holder plate to the field frame and gear housing mating joint. Apply a bead of brush plate sealer Part NO.
2421847 around the four sides of the joint (Fig. 26).
C A U T I O N : Sealer must be flowed continuously to
avoid gaps. After the bead has been flowed on, use
a brush or small paddle moistened in mineral
spirits to press adhesive into the joint. Be sure not
to get the adhesive on the battery and/or solenoid
terminals.
INSTALLATION O F THE
STARTING M O T O R
(1) Before installing the starting motor, make sure
the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces
are free of dirt and oil to insure a good electrical contact.
(2) Position the starter to the flywheel housing removable seal.
(3) Install the starting motor, washer and bolt, the
Automatic Transmission oil cooler tube bracket (if so
equipped) and the washer and nut.
NOTE: When tightening the attaching bolt and nut
be sure to hold the starting motor pulled away from
the engine to insure proper alignment.
(4) Attach the wire at the solenoid switch terminal
and cable to the starter terminal.
(5) Connect the battery ground cable and test the
operation of the starting motor for proper engine
cranking.
MyMopar.com
8-18
ALTERNATOR—DIAGNOSIS
PART 3
ALTERNATOR AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
ALTERNATOR FAILS TO
CHARGE (No Output)
Correction
Possible C a u s e
(a) Blown fusible wire in voltage regulator.
(a) Locate a n d correct the cause of the fuse blowing. Install a new fuse wire. Solder both ends of
new fusible wire securely.
(b) Alternator drive belt loose.
(b) Adjust the drive belt according to Specifica-
(c) Worn brushes a n d / o r slip rings.
(c) Install new brushes a n d / o r slip rings.
(d) Sticking brushes.
C l e a n the slip rings a n d brush holders. Install
(d) new brushes.
(e) O p e n field circuit.
Test all the field circuit connections, a n d correct
(e) as required.
(f)
(f)
tions.
Inspect all connections in the charging circuit,
O p e n charging circuit.
a n d correct a s required.
(g) O p e n circuit in stator windings.
Remove the alternator a n d disassemble. Test
(g) the stator windings. Install a new stator if
(h) O p e n rectifiers.
(h) Remove the alternator a n d disassemble. Test
necessary.
the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers if necessary.
LOW, UNSTEADY
(a) Alternator drive belt loose.
(a) Adjust the alternator drive belt.
C H A R G I N G RATE
(b) High resistance at battery terminals.
(b) C l e a n a n d tighten the battery terminals.
(c) High resistance in the charging circuit.
(c) Test the charging circuit resistance. Correct a s
(d) High resistance in the body to engine ground
(d) Tighten the ground l e a d connections. Install a
required.
lead.
(e) O p e n stator winding.
new ground lead if necessary.
(e) Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. Test
the stator windings. Install a new stator if
necessary.
L O W OUTPUT A N D
(a) High resistance in the charging circuit.
(a) Test the charging circuit resistance a n d correct
(b) Low regulator setting.
(b) Reset the voltage regulator according to speci-
(c) Shorted rectifier. O p e n rectifier.
(c) Perform the current output test. Remove a n d
A L O W BATTERY
as required.
fications.
disassemble the alternator. Test the rectifiers.
Install new rectifiers a s required.
(d) Grounded stator windings.
(d) Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. Test
the
stator windings. Install a new stator if
necessary.
EXCESSIVE CHARGING
(a) Regulator set too high.
(a) Reset the voltage regulator according to speci-
(b) Regulator contacts stuck.
(b) Install a new voltage regulator.
(c) Regulator voltage winding o p e n .
(c)
(d) Regulator base improperly grounded.
(d) Connect the regulator base to the ground con-
RATE TO A FULLY
CHARGED BATTERY
fications.
Install a new voltage regulator.
nection.
REGULATOR C O N TACTS BURNED
(a) High regulator setting.
(a) Reset the voltage regulator according to speci-
(b) Shorted rotor field coil windings.
(b) Test the rotor field coil current draw. If ex-
fications.
cessive install a new rotor.
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D
Condition
Possible Cause
REGULATOR C O N T A C T
8-19
Correction
(a) Poor ground connection between the alternator
(a) Correct the ground connection. Install a new
regulator. Test the regulator setting, a n d reset
a n d the regulator. O p e n resistor element.
POINTS STUCK
REGULATOR
if necessary.
NOISY ALTERNATOR
(a) Properly
(a) Alternator mounting loose.
install
and
tighten
the
alternator
mounting.
(b) W o r n or f r a y e d drive belt.
(b) Install a new drive belt a n d adjust.
(c) W o r n bearings.
(c) Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. Install
(d) Interference between the rotor f a n a n d stator
(d) Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. C o r -
new bearing a s required.
leads or rectifiers.
rect the interference a s required.
(e) Rotor or rotor fan d a m a g e d .
(e) Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. Install
(f)
(f)
a new rotor.
O p e n or shorted rectifier.
Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. Test
the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers a s required.
(g) O p e n or shorted winding in the stator.
(g) Remove a n d disassemble the alternator. Test
the stator windings.
Install a
new
stator
if
necessary.
EXCESSIVE AMMETER
FLUCTUATION
(a) High resistance in the field circuit to the
(a) C l e a n all connections a n d tighten a l l connec-
alternator or a n improperly set voltage
tions a s necessary. Adjust voltage regulator a s
regulator.
necessary.
S1RVICE PROCEDURES
CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION
V O L T A G E REGULATOR
The alternator (Fig. 1) is fundamentally an A.C.
current generator, with six (6) built-in silicon rectifiers, that convert the A.C. current into D.C. current.
D.C. current is available at the "output" "BAT" terminal. A voltage regulator (Fig. 2) is used in the field
circuit to limit the output voltage.
The main components of the alternator are the rotor, the stator, the rectifiers, the two end shields and
the drive pulley. (See Fig. 3).
The only function of the regulator is to limit the
output voltage. The voltage regulator accomplishes
this by controlling the flow of current in the rotor
field coil, and in effect controls the strength of the
rotor magnetic field.
The voltage regulator is connected in the field circuit between the battery and the field terminal of the
alternator. One terminal of the regulator is marked
"IGN" and the other is marked "FLD." The "IGN"
terminal of the regulator is connected to the coil side
HEAT SINK
OUTPUT TERMINAL
SCREW
GROUND BRUSH
NEGATIVE
(DIODES)
RECTIFIERS
POSITIVE
(DIODES)
RECTIFIERS
_
g
INSULATED
BRUSH
IGNITION TERMINAL
FIELD
x " ^ - TERMINAL
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
BEARING
62x101
Fig.
1—Alternator
Assembly
Fig. 2—Voltage
Regulator
Installed
(Typical)
MyMopar.com
8-20
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
SPACER
BEARING
Fig. 3—Alternator
of the ignition switch so that the field circuit is completed only when the ignition switch is turned "ON."
The voltage regulator (Fig. 4) has two sets of contacts using a common single armature. The upper
and lower stationary contact brackets are mounted
on a molded plastic bracket which is attached to the
Fig. 4—Voltage
Regulator
(Cover
Removed)
(Disassembled
View)
regulator frame by a screw. (Fig. 5) The upper contact bracket is connected to the "IGN" terminal by a
fusible wire. The lower contact bracket is connected
to ground by another fusible wire. The armature is
connected to the insulated "FLD" terminal.
Three resistance units are used (Fig. 6). Resistor
Fig. 5—Voltage
Regulator
Fusible
Wires
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
F i g . 6 — V o l t a g e Regulator
Resistance
Units
number "one" and number "two" are connected between the "IGN" and "FLD" terminals, in parallel
with the upper set of contacts. Resistor number
"three" is connected between the "FLD" terminal
and ground. Its function is to reduce arcing at the
regulator contacts.
A voltage coil, (Fig. 4) consisting of many turns of
fine wire, is connected in series between the "IGN"
terminal of the regulator and "ground." Thus, when
the ignition switch is turned "ON," battery voltage
applied to the windings energizes the coil and the
magnetic force of the coil tends to attract the regulator armature.
REGULATOR O P E R A T I O N
(1) When the battery line voltage is relatively low,
the current flow through the voltage coil will be low.
The magnetic force (or pull) of the voltage coil will
not be great enough to overcome the regulator armature spring tension, which is holding the armature
contact against the upper stationary contact, (Fig. 6).
Battery line voltage applied to the "IGN" terminal
causes current to flow through the regulator upper
contacts, through the "FLD" terminal of the regulator and to the "insulated" brush and rotor slip ring.
The rotor field coil circuit is completed to "ground"
through the other rotor slip ring and the "ground"
brush. Inasmuch as the upper contacts are "closed,"
the field circuit resistance is low, and maximum current will flow through the rotor field coil. The rotor
field strength will be high, and the alternator output
will be at its maximum for any rotor speed.
(2) As the battery line voltage increases, the mag-
8-21
netic pull of the voltage coil overcomes the armature
spring tension, and "opens" the upper contacts. The
armature contacts at this time do not touch either the
upper or lower stationary contacts. Field current now
flows through the regulator "IGN" terminal, through
resistance number one and number two, through the
"FLD" terminal, and through the rotor field to
ground.
The two resistors, in series with the field circuit,
reduce field current and rotor field strength, with a
corresponding reduction in alternator output voltage.
This momentarily reduces battery line voltage applied to the regulator voltage coil. The regulator armature spring tension overcomes the magnetic pull
of the voltage coil, closing the upper contacts.
When the electrical load requirements are relatively high, the regulator armature oscillates, opening
and closing the upper contacts. This alternately "puts
i n " and "takes out" resistance in the field circuit, and
in effect limits the alternator output voltage.
(3) When the electrical load requirements are low
and the engine speed is high, the alternator output
voltage tends to increase. The battery line voltage
(now slightly increased) causes the regulator voltage
coil magnetic force to pull the armature contact
against the regulator lower stationary contact.
Field current flow is now through the regulator
"IGN" terminal, resistors number one and number
two, to the regulator "FLD" terminal. Since the regulator armature is connected to the "FLD" terminal
and the lower contacts are closed, the current path is
through the regulator armature to the movable contact and then through the lower contact to ground.
This is because the resistance to ground is less than
the alternator rotor field coil resistance.
By-passing the alternator field coil will cause the
alternator output voltage and the battery line voltage
to drop. This reduction in voltage will reduce the
magnetic pull of the regulator voltage coil, to the extent that it cannot hold the armature contact against
the stationary lower contact.
The armature moves into a "no contact" position
between the upper and lower stationary contacts. This
momentarily allows the field current to flow through
resistors number one and number two, and through
the rotor field coil to ground. At high engine speed
and low electrical load operation, the armature oscillates between the "no contact" position, and contact
with the lower stationary contact, to limit the battery
line voltage.
TESTING THE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM
(On the Vehicle Using the Sun Volt
Ampere Tester Model V A T - 2 0 D a n d
Sun Battery Post Adapter)
MyMopar.com
8-22
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
NOTE: For the sake of uniformity, one type of
equipment is shown. Follow the instructions of the
equipment manufacturers on comparable equipment when making the following tests:
LIGHT SWITCH
VEHICLE
Preliminary
Checks
" (1) Test the battery condition. Perform reliable
battery tests to determine the condition and state of
charge of the battery. If the battery is defective or
not fully charged, install a fully charged battery for
test purposes.
(2) Test the alternator belt condition and tension.
Replace the alternator drive belt i f necessary and
make sure that there is adequate tension on the belt.
(3) Inspect the condition of wires and their connec-
tions. Before performing the test on the system, correct any problem with the wiring, such as loose connections, corroded connections, burned wiring harness, etc.
Tester
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Tester
Controls and
Set
Set
Set
Set
Switches
Polarity Switch to the NEGATIVE position.
tester control knob to the DIRECT position.
voltage switch to the 2 VOLT position.
field control to the OPEN position.
Lead
Connections
1
ADAPTER
64x473A
Fig. 8—Field
Field
Circuit
Current
Resistance
Draw
and
Test
(6) Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to
the battery end of the positive battery cable.
NOTE: The
Battery Post Adapter BY-PASS
SWITCH must be open for all charging system
tests. It is closed only for starting the engine.
Field
(Fig. 7)
(1) Disconnect the positive battery cable from the
battery post and install the BATTERY POST ADAPTER between the cable and post.
(2) Connect the "BAT" lead of the tester to the
stud on the adapter.
(3) Connect the "REG" lead of the tester to the
binding post on the adapter.
(4) Connect the "GRD" lead of the tester to a good
ground on the vehicle.
(5) Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to
the field terminal of the regulator.
J
Circuit
Resistance
Test (Fig. 8)
(1) Disconnect the slip-on connector from either
end of the ignition ballast resistor.
(2) Turn the ignition switch on.
(3) With vehicle doors closed and all accessories
turned off, observe the Voltmeter reading. The voltage should not exceed .55 volt. A reading in excess of
.55 volt indicates high resistance in the field circuit
between the battery and the voltage regulator field
terminal.
(4) I f high resistance is indicated, move the negative voltmeter lead to each connection along the circuit towards the battery. A sudden drop in voltage indicates a loose or corroded connection between that
point and the last point tested. To test the terminals
for tightness, attempt to move the terminal while observing the voltmeter. Any movement of the meter
pointer indicates looseness.
NOTE: Excessive resistance in the regulator wiring
circuit will cause fluctuation in the ammeter, or a
below normal charge rate.
Field
Current
Draw
Test (Fig. 8)
With tester connections positioned as for the Field
Circuit Resistance Test, observe the test ammeter.
The test ammeter will indicate the field current draw.
Refer to "Specifications."
Current
64 x 472
Fig. 7—Tester
Lead
Connections
Output
Test (Fig. 9)
(1) With the ignition switch off, disconnect the
field wire from the "FLD" terminal of the alternator
and at the regulator.
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
8-23
that specified above, it may be an indication of possible "open" rectifier or other alternator internal problem. If the output is considerably lower than that
specified above, it may be an indication of a possible
"shorted" rectifier or other alternator internal problems. In either case the alternator should be removed
and tested on the bench before disassembly.
(14) Return the tester Field Control to the OPEN
position.
(15) Return the tester Control Knob to the DIRECT
position.
Insulated Circuit
(Fig. 10)
ADAPTER
64x474A
Fig. 9 — C u r r e n t Output
Test
(2) Connect a special jumper from the "FLD" terminal of the alternator to one of the test leads of the
tester Field Control.
(3) Connect the other lead of the tester Field Control to the "BAT" terminal of the alternator.
(4) Set the Tester Voltage Switch to the 16 VOLT
position.
(5) Connect the positive lead of the test Voltmeter
to the "BAT" terminal of the alternator.
(6) Connect the negative lead of the Test Voltmeter to a good ground.
(7) Reconnect the slip-on connector at the ignition
ballast resistor.
(8) Close the BY-PASS Switch of the Battery Post
Adapter.
(9) With the tester Field Control in the OPEN position, start the engine and adjust to 1250 RPM.
(10) Open the BY-PASS Switch of the Battery Post
Adapter.
(11) Rotate the tester Control Knob to the LOAD
position until the Voltmeter reads 6 volts.
(12) Rotate the tester Field Control to the DIRECT
position and adjust the tester Control Knob until the
Voltmeter reads exactly 15 volts.
(13) Observe the test ammeter. Ammeter now indicates maximum output of alternator. The current
output should be within the limits shown in "Specifications."
Resistance
(1) Connect the negative lead of the Voltmeter to
the battery end of positive battery cable.
(2) Set the Voltage Switch to 2 VOLT position.
(3) Adjust the Field Control until the tester ammeter reads exactly 10 amperes.
(4) Observe the voltmeter reading. Voltmeter now
indicates the amount of voltage loss across the insulated circuit. The voltage loss should not exceed .3
volt. If a higher voltage loss is indicated, inspect,
clean and tighten all the connections in the charging
circuit. A voltage loss test may be performed at each
connection to locate the connection that has excessive resistance.
Ground
Circuit
Resistance
Test
(Fig. I l l
(1) Connect the positive lead of the test voltmeter
to the negative terminal of the battery.
(2) Connect the negative lead of the test voltmeter
to a good ground on the alternator.
(3) With the alternator charging 10 amps, observe
the voltmeter reading. Voltmeter now indicates the
NOTE: The current output should be within 5 amperes of the rated output as there is a total of 5
amperes supplied by the alternator that will not
appear on the test ammeter. This consists of Vi
ampere approximate for the instruments, I V 2 amperes for the engine ignition system, and 3 amperes for field current.
If the output is slightly less (5 to 7 amperes) than
Test
ADAPTER
64x475A
Fig.
10—Insulated
Circuit
Resistance
Test
MyMopar.com
8-24
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR'
LIGHT SWITCH
,
-A.
BAT.
VEHICLE
AMMETER
VAT-20D
1 BALLAST
Resistor
VOLTAGE
REGULATOR
TO
UDIST.,
STARTER
BATTERY
BATTERY POST
ADAPTER
64x476A
Fig. 11—Ground
Circuit Resistance
Test
amount of voltage loss across the ground circuit. The
voltage loss should not exceed .3 volt.
(4) Rotate the tester Field Control the the OPEN
position.
Voltage Regulator Test (Fig. 12)
NOTE: Regulator temperature should be normalized by operating with a 10 ampere load for 15 minutes just prior to testing.
Upper
Contacts
Test
(1) Remove the test lead of the tester Field Control
from the "BAT" terminal of the alternator and connect to the field wire disconnected from the regulator.
BAT
LIGHT SWITCH
VEHICLE
AMMETER
VAT-20D
(2) Set the Voltage Switch to the 16 VOLT position.
(3) Connect the positive lead of Voltmeter to
"BAT" terminal of alternator.
(4) Rotate the tester Field Control to the DIRECT
position.
(5) With the engine operating at 1250 RPM, rotate
the tester Control Knob clockwise until the Ammeter
reads exactly 15 amperes.
(6) Rotate the tester Field Control from the DIRECT position to the OPEN position and then back
to the DIRECT position to cycle the system.
(7) Observe the test voltmeter. The voltmeter now
indicates the setting of the voltage regulator upper
contacts. Refer to "Specifications."
(8) Rotate the tester Control Knob to the DIRECT
position. If the regulator operates within specifications, proceed to the lower contact voltage test. I f the
upper contact voltage setting is not within specifications, remove the regulator cover and adjust the voltage setting as outlined in "Regulator Adjustments"
step number (1).
Lower Contact Test
(1) Increase the engine speed to 2200 RPM.
(2) Rotate the tester Control Knob to the VA OHM
position only i f the tester Ammeter reads over 5 amperes.
(3) Rotate the tester Field Control from the DIRECT position to the OPEN position and then back to
the DIRECT position to cycle the system.
(4) Observe the voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of voltage regulator lower contacts. Refer to specifications.
Voltage should increase not less than .2 volt or
more than .7 volt above the previous operating voltage setting recorded in the upper contact set. A voltage reading of less than .2 volt or more than .7 volt
is an indication of a possible wrong air gap setting,
refer to "Regulator Mechanical Adjustments."
(5) Rotate the tester Field Control to the OPEN
position and the Control Knob to the DIRECT position.
Upon completion of the test, reduce engine speed
to idle, stop engine, and disconnect all test leads and
adaptors. Be sure that all vehicle's cables and wiring
connections are secure before restarting engine.
CAUTION: Be sure the negative post of the battery
is always connected to ground. Incorrect battery
polarity may result in wiring harness damage and
may damage the alternator rectifiers. Do not
ground the alternator field circuit, as this may damage the regulator.
BATTERY POST
ADAPTER
64x477A
F i g . 7 2 — V o l t a g e Regulator
Test
Adjusting
the Voltage
Driving
Conditions
Setting
to
The specifications called for in the voltage regulator chart indicate a tolerance of .9 volt from the low
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
setting to the high setting at the temperatures indicated.
To maintain the battery in a full state of charge,
the voltage regulator should be adjusted to provide
the proper voltage limiting setting according to the
customer's driving and load requirement habits as
follows:
(1) Check the entire charging system and battery
as outlined in this Service Manual.
(2) If there are no defects in the charging system
or in the battery and the battery was found to be in
a low state of charge, increase the setting by .3 volt
(do not exceed specified voltage limits) and retest for
an improved battery condition after a reasonable
service period (week or two). If the battery state of
charge has increased to a satisfactory level, do not
change the voltage setting. If the battery shows evidence of over-charge—(low electrolyte level, high water consumption, excessive dampness on top of battery), decrease the setting by .3 volt and retest for an
improved battery condition after a reasonable service
period (week or two).
CAUTION: Always adjust the settings in steps not
to exceed .3 volt at a time. (Do not exceed specified
voltage limits.)
(3) The proper setting of the voltage regulator is
attained when the battery remains at least 1.225 specific gravity in the winter or 1.245 specified gravity in
the summer, with a minimum water requirement (not
more than an ounce of water per cell per one thousand miles).
Fig.
13—Adjusting
the Spring
Tension
Regulator
Mechanical
8-25
Adjustments
Step 1—Adjust the upper contact voltage setting
as necessary by bending the regulator lower spring
hanger down to increase voltage setting, up to decrease voltage setting. Use an insulated tool to bend
the spring hanger (Fig. 13). The regulator must be installed, correctly connected, and retested after each
adjustment of the lower spring hanger.
NOTE: If repeated readjustment is required, it is
permissible to use a jumper wire to ground the
regulator base to the fender splash shield for testing, in lieu of reinstalling the regulator each time.
However, it is important that the regulator cover
be reinstalled, the regulator connections correctly
connected, and the regulator satisfactorily insulated by the fender cover to prevent grounding the
regulator terminals or resistances. When testing,
the regulator must be at the same attitude (or angle) as when installed on the vehicle. If step (1) under "Mechanical Adjustments" does not bring the
voltage regulator within specifications, proceed to
Step (2) following:
Step 2—Measure the lower contact point gap. The
lower contact gap should be .014 inch plus or minus
.002 inch. Adjust the lower contact gap as necessary
by bending the lower stationary contact bracket making sure contacts are in alignment.
If the lower contact gap is correct and the voltage
regulator setting is still outside the .2 to .7 volt increase, adjust the air gap as follows:
(a) Connect a small dry cell test lamp in series with
Fig.
14—Testing
the Air
Gap
MyMopar.com
8-26
ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR
the "IGN" and' "FLD" terminal of the voltage regulator.
(b) Insert an .048 inch wire gauge between the regulator armature and the core of the voltage coil next
to the stop pin on the armature (Fig. 14).
(c) Press down on the armature (not on the contact
reed) until the armature contacts the wire gauge. The
upper contacts should just open and the test lamp
should be dim.
(d) Insert an .052 inch wire gauge between the armature and the voltage coil core, next to the stop pin
on the armature.
(e) Press down on the armature until it contacts
the wire gauge. The upper contacts should remain
closed and test lamp should remain bright.
If an adjustment is required to obtain the difference between the upper contact voltage and the lower
contact voltage of .2 volt to .7 volt; adjust the air gap
by loosening the stationary contact bracket screw and
moving the bracket up or down as necessary to obtain the proper air gap setting as follows:
If the difference is above .7 volt, reduce the air gap
to a minimum of .045 inch with the contacts open
and the test lamp dim. At .048 inch the contacts
should close and the test lamp should be bright.
If the difference is below .2 volt, increase the air
gap to a maximum of .055 inch with the contacts
closed and the test lamp bright. At .052 inch contacts
should be open and test lamp should be dim.
NOTE: Make sure the air gap is checked with the
stationary contact bracket attaching screw fully
tightened.
Voltage Regulator
Replacement
Fusible
Wire
(1) Cut the fuse wire above the solder connection
at the base and unwind the wire at the top bracket.
CAUTION: If an attempt is made to unsolder the
old fuse, the very small wire from the voltage coil
may be damaged.
(2) Tin the end of the fuse wire. Use resin core
solder only.
(3) Holding the tinned end of the new fuse wire
into the recessed rivit at the base of the regulator
and against the old piece of fuse wire that remains,
cause a drop of solder from a soldering iron to fall
on these parts. Allow solder to cool sufficiently for
fuse wires to make a good solder joint.
(4) Pull the new fuse wire up enough to remove
the slack and wrap it around the bracket. Solder the
coiled wire to the bracket and cut off surplus fuse
wire.
NOTE: The original fuse wire is machine wound on
the upper bracket. The replacement fuse should be
soldered to the bracket to ensure a good electrical
contact.
ALTERNATOR SERVICING
If the alternator performance does not meet current output specifications limits, it will have to be removed and disassembled for further test and servicing.
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery negative terminal.
(2) Disconnect the alternator output "BATT" and
field "FLD" leads and disconnect the ground wire.
(3) Remove the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator.
BENCH TESTS
Field Coil
Draw
If the alternator field coil draw has not been tested
on the vehicle it may be tested on the test bench as
follows:
(1) Connect the test ammeter positive lead to the
battery positive terminal of a fully charged battery.
Connect the test ammeter negative lead to the field
terminal of the alternator. Connect a jumper wire to
the negative terminal of the battery, and ground it to
the alternator end shield.
(2) Slowly rotate the alternator rotor by hand. Observe the ammeter reading. The field coil draw should
be 2.3 amperes to 2.7 amperes at 12 volts.
NOTE: A low rotor coil draw is an indication of
high resistance in the field coil circuit, (brushes,
slip rings, or rotor coil). A higher rotor coil draw
indicates a possible shorted rotor coil or a grounded rotor.
Testing Alternator
for
Internal
Field
Circuit
Ground
(1) To test the internal field circuit for a ground,
remove the ground brush. Touch one test prod from
a 110 volt test lamp to the alternator insulated brush
terminal and the remaining test prod to the end
shield. If the rotor assembly or insulated brush is not
grounded, the lamp will not light.
(2) If the lamp lights, remove the insulated brush
assembly (noting how the parts are assembled) and
separate the end shields by removing the three thru
bolts.
(3) Again test by placing one of the test prods to a
slip ring and the remaining test prod to the end
shield. If the lamp lights, the rotor assembly is
grounded and requires replacement. If the lamp does
not light after removing the insulated brush and separating the end shields, the cause of the ground at
the first ground test was that the insulated brush is
grounded.
(4) Examine the plastic insulator and the screw.
The screw is a special size and must not be substituted
by another size.
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
Fig.
1 5 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Insulated
Brush
(5) Install the insulated brush holder, terminal, insulated washer, shake proof washer and screw. I f the
parts were not assembled in this order or if the
wrong screw was used this could be the cause of the
ground condition.
DISASSEMBLING THE ALTERNATOR
To prevent possible damage to the brush assemblies, they should be removed before proceeding with
the disassembly of the alternator. The insulated brush
is mounted in a plastic holder that positions the brush
vertically against one of the slip rings.
(1) Remove the retaining screw lockwasher, insulated washer, and field terminal, and carefully lift the
plastic holder containing the spring and brush assembly from the end housing, (Figure 15).
(2) The ground brush is positioned horizontally
against the remaining slip ring and is retained in a
F
/
g
>
j —Separating
Drive
7
f
m
m
$
f
a
t
End
8-27
Shield
m
holder that is integral with the end shield. Remove
the retaining screw and lift the clip, spring and brush
assembly from the end shield, (Figure 16).
CAUTION: Stator is laminated, do not burr stator
or end shield.
(3) Remove the through bolts and pry between the
stator and drive end shield with the blade of a screwdriver, as shown in Figure 17. Carefully separate the
drive end shield, pulley and rotor assembly away
from the stator and rectifier shield assembly.
Testing
the Rectifiers
with
Tool
C-3829
The Rectifier Tester Tool C-3829 provides a quick,
simple and accurate method to test the alternator
rectifiers without the necessity of disconnecting the
soldered rectifier leads. With the alternator rectifier
end shield separated from the drive end housing proceed with rectifier tests as follows:
G R O U N D BRUSH A S S E M B L Y
TEST P R O D
POSITIVE C A S E
RECTIFIERS
NK116
Fig.
16-—Removing
Ground
or
Brush
TO ALTERNATOR
" B A T " TERMINAL
Installing
Fig.
18—Testing
Positive
Rectifiers
MyMopar.com
8-28
Positive
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR'
Case
Rectifier
Test (Fig. 18)
(a) Place the alternator on an insulated surface.
Connect the test lead clip to the alternator ("BAT")
output terminal.
(b) Plug in the Tool C-3829 power source lead into
a 110 volt A.C. power supply. Touch the exposed bare
metal connections of each of the positive case rectifiers, with the test prod.
CAUTION: Do not break the sealing around the
rectifier lead wire. The sealing material is for protection against corrosion. Always touch the test
prod to the exposed metal connection nearest the
rectifier.
The reading for satisfactory rectifiers will be 1%
amperes or more. The reading should be approximately the same for the three rectifiers.
When two rectifiers are good and one is shorted,
the reading taken at the good rectifiers will be low,
and the reading at the shorted rectifier will be zero.
Disconnect the lead to the rectifier reading zero and
retest. The reading of the good rectifiers will now be
within the satisfactory range.
When one rectifier is open it will read approximately one ampere, and the two good rectifiers will read
within the satisfactory range.
Negative
Case
Rectifier
Test (Fig. 19)
(a) Connect the test lead clip to the rectifier end
housing.
(b) Touch the exposed connectio of each of the
negative case rectifiers with the test prod.
The test specifications are the same, and the test
results will be approximately the same as for the positive case rectifiers, except the meter will read on the
opposite side of the scale.
TESTING THE RECTIFIERS A N D STATOR
F i g . 2 0 — S e p a r a t i n g the Three
Stator
Leads
(a) Separate the three (3) stator leads at the " Y "
connection (Fig. 20).
NOTE: Cut the stator connection as close to the
connector as possible because they will have to be
soldered together again. If they are cut too short it
may be difficult to get them together again for
soldering.
(b) Test the rectifiers with a 12 volt battery and a
test lamp equipped with a number 67 bulb (4 candle
power) by connecting one side of test lamp to the
positive battery post; the other side of the test lamp
to a test probe with the other test probe connected
to the negative battery post.
(c) Contact the outer case of the rectifier with one
probe and the other probe to the wire in the center
of the rectifier. (Fig. 21).
(d) Reverse the probes, moving the probe from the
rectifier outer case to the rectifier wire, and the probe
from the rectifier wire to the rectifier outer case.
(When Tool C-3829 is not available)
Fig.
19—Testing
Negative
Rectifiers
Fig. 21—Testing
Rectifiers
with a Test
Lamp
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D
Fig. 22—Testing
the Stator for Grounds
If the test lamp "lights" in one direction but does
"not light" in the other direction, the rectifier is satisfactory. If the lamp lights in "both directions," the
rectifier is "shorted." If the test lamp does "not light"
in either direction, the rectifier Is "open."
NOTE: Possible cause of an open or a blown rectifier is a faulty capacitor or a battery that has been
installed in reverse polarity. If the battery is installed properly and the rectifiers are open, test
the capacitor capacity —.50 microfarad (plus or
minus 20%).
(e) Unsolder the rectifier leads from the stator
leads.
(f) Test the stator for grounds using a 110 volt
test lamp (Fig. 22). Use wood slats to insulate the
stator from the rectifier shield. Contact one prod of
the test lamp to the stator pole frame, and contact
the other prod to each of the three stator leads. The
Fig. 24—-Removing
REGULATOR
8-29
Rectifiers
test lamp should "not light." If the test lamp lights,
the stator windings are "grounded."
(g) Test the stator windings for continuity, by contacting one prod of the test lamp to all three stator
leads at the " Y " connection. Contact each of the
three stator leads (disconnected from the rectifiers).
The test lamp should "light" when the prod contacts
each of the three leads. If the test lamp does not light
the stator winding is "open" (Fig. 23).
(h) Install a new stator if the stator tested Is
"grounded" or "open." If the rectifiers must be replaced unsolder the rectifier wire from the stator lead
wire at the soldered joint.
NOTE: Three rectifiers are pressed into the heat
sink and three in the end shield. When removing
the rectifiers, it is necessary to support the end
shield and/or heat sink to prevent damage to these
castings.
\
\
•EM
Fig. 23—Testing
Stator Windings
for
Continuity
Fig. 25—Removing
Pulley
MyMopar.com
8-30
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
62x111
,
Fig. 26—Disengaging the Bearing
Retainer
from the End Shield
(4) Cut the lead at the malfunctioning rectifier.
(5) Place the Rectifier Removing and Installing
Press in a vise and support the end shield on the
clamp anvil under the rectifier to be removed (Fig.
24).
NOTE: The support tool adapter SP-3821 is cutaway and slotted to fit over the wires and around
the bosses in the end shield. Make sure that the
bore of the tool completely surrounds the rectifier
during the removal process.
(6) Carefully apply pressure with the tool pressure
screw until the support tool rectifier end shield and
remover pin and remover adapter are in alignment
then press the rectifier out of the end shield or heat
sink.
(7) The pulley is an interference fit on the rotor
shaft. Remove the pulley with Puller Tool C-3615 or
C-3934 and special adapters (Fig. 25).
Fig. 28—Removing
the Heat Sink
Insulator
(8) Pry the drive end bearing spring retainer from
the end shield with a screwdriver (Fig. 26).
(9) Support the end shield and tap the rotor shaft
with a plastic hammer to separate the rotor from the
end shield.
NOTE: The new bearing is lubricated with a predetermined amount of special lubricant and does
not require additional lubrication.
(10) The drive end ball bearing is an interference
fit with the rotor shaft. Remove the bearing with puller Tool C-3615 or C-3934 and adapters as follows:
(a) Position the center screw of the Tool on the rotor shaft.
(b) Place the thin lower end of the adapters SP3375 under the bearing equally spaced with the upper end of the adapters around the center screw.
(c) Hold the adapter and center screw in position
with the tool sleeve.
CAUTION: The tool sleeve must bottom on bearings, otherwise adapters may be damaged.
(d) Turning the center screw while holding the outer body of the tool (Fig. 27) will withdraw the bearing from the rotor shaft.
(11) Remove the D.C. output terminal nuts and
washers and remove the terminal screw and inside
capacitor.
TOOL
NOTE: The heat sink is also held in pjace by the
terminal screw.
Fig. 27—Removing
Rotor
the Bearing from
Shaft
the
(12) Remove the insulator (Fig. 28).
(13) The needle roller bearing in the rectifier end
shield is a press fit. If it is necessary to remove the
rectifier end frame needle bearing, protect the end
shild by supporting the shield with Tool C-3925 when
pressing the bearing out with Tool C-3770A (Fig. 29).
Make sure the notches in the tool clear the raised
section of the heat sink.
NOTE: The new bearing is prelubricated and no
MyMopar.com
-ALTERNATOR A N D
REGULATOR
8-31
C-3770
O L D SLIP R I N G
-SP-3925
jgfc; 6 3 x 6 5
Fig. 2 9 — R e m o v i n g the Rectifier
Shield
End
CUT W I T H
CHISEL
Bearing
additional lubricant should be added, as an excessive amount of lubricant will contaminate the slip
rings and cause premature brush and rotor failures.
REPLACING SLIP RINGS
Slip rings that are damaged can be replaced as follows:
(a) Cut through the rotor grease retainer with a
chisel and remove the retainer and insulator.
(b) Unsolder the field coil leads at the solder lugs
(Fig. 30).
(c) Cut through the copper of both slip rings at
N
.
:
Fig. 31—Cutting
.
V
v
..
f
the Old Slip
opposite points (180° apart) with a chisel (Fig. 31).
(d) Break the insulator and remove the old ring.
(e) Clean away dirt and particles of the old slip
ring from the rotor.
(f) Scrape the ends of the field coil lead wires clean
for good electrical contact.
(g) Scrape one end (about / i 6 inch) of a piece of
bare wire (approx. 18 gauge) three inches long (to be
used as a guide wire).
8
SLIP
GUIDE
GROUND
BRUSH R I N G
SOLDER LUG
SOLDER WITH
RESIN CORE
» SOLDER
\
I
INSULATED
BRUSH
RING
SOLDER LUG
Rings
GUIDE
RING
WIRE
WIRS
SOLDERED
TO
LEAD
62X527
62 X
529
Fig. 32—Aligning
Fig. 30—Solder
Points—-S/ip
Ring
Installed
and
Slip Ring with Field
Guide
Wire
Wire
MyMopar.com
8-32
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR-
Fig. 34—Installing
Fig. 33—Installing
the Slip
Ming
(h) Tin the scraped area of the guide wire with resin core solder. Lap the tinned end of the wire over
the field coil lead to the insulated ring and solder the
two together.
(i) Position the new slip ring carefully over the
guide wire and the rotor shaft so the wire will lay in
the slip ring groove (Fig. 32). The groove in the slip
ring must be in line with the insulated brush field
lead to provide room for the lead without damaging
it.
(j) Place installing Tool C-3900 over the rotor shaft
with the guide wire protruding from the slot in the
tool.
(k) Position rotor, slip ring and tool assembly in
an arbor press (Fig. 33). Pull up on the guide wire being careful to guide the insulated field lead into the
slip ring groove. While guiding the insulated field
lead through the groove, press the slip ring on the
shaft. When the slip ring is bottomed on the rotor
fan the end of the field lead (insulated brush ring)
should be visible at the solder lug (Fig. 30).
(1) Unsolder the guide wire from insulated brush
slip ring lead. Press the field lead into the solder lug
and solder the lead to the lug with resin core solder.
Bearing
Grease
Retainer
test lamp by touching one test lead prod to the rotor
pole shoe and the remaining prod to the slip rings.
Test lamp should not light. If lamp lights, slip rings
are shorted to ground, possibly due to grounding insulated field lead when installing the slip ring.
If the rotor is not grounded, lightly clean the slip
ring surfaces with -00- sandpaper.
(o) Position the grease retainer insulator and
grease retainer on the rotor shaft and press the retainer on the shaft with installer Tool C-3921 Fig. 34.
The retainer is properly positioned when the inner
bore of installer tool bottoms on the rotor shaft.
ASSEMBLING THE ALTERNATOR
(1) Check the rectifier identification to make sure
the correct rectifier is being installed. Refer to the
Parts List for rectifier identification.
CAUTION: Be sure the solder bead does not protrude beyond the surface of the plastic material.
Do not use acid core solder as a short circuit may
result and corrosion will definitely occur.
(m) Coil the ground brush ring field lead around
the solder lug and solder with resin core solder,
(n) Test the slip rings for ground with a 110 volt
Fig. 35—Installing
a
Rectifier
MyMopar.com
ALTERNATOR A N D
REGULATOR
8-33
—f2f4^art^tl^
hole.
(3) Support the heat sink or rectifier and shield on
the installer adapter of Tool C-3928. With the installing adapter positioned on the rectifier, carefully apply pressure with the tool pressure screw until the installer tool, rectifier, rectifier end shield or heat sink
are in alignment and after determining that the rectifier is started squarely in the casting, slowly apply
pressure with the tool pressure screw until you feel
the collar of the rectifier bottom against the casting
(Fig. 35).
NOTE: Make sure that the installer support adapter fits square around the rectifier inner boss and
that pressure is applied on the outer rim of the
rectifier.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE a hammer to start the
rectifier into its bore in the end shield. DO NOT
HAMMER OR SHOCK the rectifier in any manner
as this will fracture the thin silicon wafer in the
rectifier causing complete rectifier failure.
(4) Clean the leads and mate the stator lead with
the rectifier wire and bend the loop snugly around
the stator lead to provide a good electrical and mechanical connection. Solder the wires with resin core
solder. Hold the rectifier lead wire with pliers just below the joint while soldering Fig. 36. The pliers will
absorb the heat from the soldering operation and protect the rectifier.
NOTE: After soldering, quickly cool the soldered
connection; touch a dampened cloth against it. This
will aid in forming a solid joint.
(5) After soldering, the stator leads must be
pushed down into the slots that are cast into the end
shield and cemented with MoPar Cement Part Number 2299314 to protect the leads against possible interference with the rotor fans. Test each replacement
rectifier to make certain the rectifier was not dam-
x 728
63
Fig. 37—Installing
Shield
the Rectifier
End
Bearings
aged by the soldering or pressing operations.
(6) Support the end shield on Tool C-3925 so that
the notches in the support tool will clean the raised
section of the heat sink and press the bearing into
position with Tool SP-3381 (Fig. 37).
NOTE: New bearings are pre-lubricated, additional
lubrication is not required.
(7) Insert the drive end bearing in the drive end
shield and install the bearing retainer plate to hold
the bearing in place.
(8) Position the bearing and drive end shield on
the rotor shaft and, while supporting the base of the
rotor shaft, press the bearing and shield into position
on the rotor shaft with arbor press and Tool C-3858
(Fig. 38).
CAUTION: Make sure that the bearing is installed
squarely at installation; otherwise, damage to the
bearing will result. Press the bearing on the rotor
shaft until the bearing contacts the shoulder on the
rotor shaft.
PRESSING
TOOL
BEARING
RETAINER
M M
STATOR
RECTIFIER
DRIVE E N D
SHIELD
ROTOR
LEAD
Fig. 36—Soldering
>2K
LEAD
62x114
Rectifier
and Stator
Leads
A
62x116
Fig. 38—Installing
Drive End Shield
and
Bearings
MyMopar.com
8-34
ALTERNATOR A N D REGULATOR
(9) Install the pulley on the rotor shaft. The shaft
of the rotor must be supported in a manner so that
all pressing force is on the pulley hub and rotor shaft
(Fig. 39).
PULLEY
DRIVE E N D
SHIELD
NOTE: Press the pulley on the rotor shaft until the
pulley contacts the inner race of the drive end
bearing. Do not exceed 6800 pounds pressure.
(10) The alternators have the capacitor mounted
internally. Make sure the heat sink insulator is in
place (Fig. 28).
(11) Install the output terminal screw and the capacitor through the heat sink and end shield.
(12) Install the insulating washers, lockwashers and
lock nuts.
(13) Make sure the heat sink and insulator are in
position and tighten the lock nut.
(14) Position the stator on the rectifier end shield.
(15) Position the rotor end shield assembly on the
stator and rectifier end shield. Align the through bolt
holes in the stator, rectifier end shield and drive end
shield.
(16) Compress the stator and both end shields by
hand and install the through bolts, washers and nuts.
(17) Install the insulated brush in the rectifier end.
Place the bronze terminal on the plastic holder with
the tab of the terminal in the recess in the plastic
holder.
(18) Place the nylon washer on the bronze terminal
and install the lockwasher and attaching screws.
ROTOR
ROTOR
SHAFT
62x117
F i g . 39—Installing
the Alternator
Pulley
(19) Install the ground brush and attaching screw.
(20) Rotate the pulley slowly by hand to be sure
that the rotor fans do not hit the rectifiers, capacitor
lead, and stator connections.
(21) Install the alternator and adjust the drive belt.
(22) Connect the output "BAT" and the field
"FLD" leads and connect the ground wire.
(23) Connect the battery ground cable.
(24) Start and operate the engine, and observe the
alternator operation.
(25) Test the current output and regulator voltage
setting, if necessary.
Fig. I — S h a f t and Bushing
Wear
Test
MyMopar.com
IGNITION—DIAGNOSIS
8-35
PART 4
IGNITION SYSTEM
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
BURNED O R PITTED
Possible C o u s e
Correction
(a) If the oil is on contact f a c e , determine
(a) Dirt or oil on contacts.
cause a n d
DISTRIBUTOR
distributor
CONTACTS
correct the
condition.
the
Clean
the
cam of dirt a n d g r e a s e , apply
a
light film of distributor cam lubricant Part No.
1473595 to cam lobes; wipe off excess. Rep l a c e the contact set a n d adjust as necessary.
(b) Alternator regulator setting too high.
(b) Test the alternator
voltage
regulator
setting,
adjust a s necessary. Replace a n d adjust the
distributor contacts.
(c) Contacts misaligned or g a p too small.
(c) Align a n d adjust contacts.
(d) Test a n d r e p l a c e coil if necessary. Replace a n d
(d) Faulty coil.
adjust contacts.
(e) Inspect conditions, a n d correctly connect the
(e) Ballast resistor not in circuit.
coil.
(f)
(f) Wrong condenser or faulty condenser.
Test the condenser a n d replace if necessary.
Replace a n d adjust the contacts.
(g) Replace the ignition switch.
(g) Faulty ignition switch.
(h) Bushings or distributor shaft worn.
(h) Recondition the distributor.
(i)
(i)
Touching of contacts with hands during
Replace a n d adjust the contacts.
installation.
IGNITION COIL
(a) Test the alternator setting a n d adjust as nec-
(a) Alternator regulator setting too high.
essary. Inspect the condition of the
FAILURE
distributor
contacts.
(b) Coil d a m a g e d by excessive heat from engine.
(b) Replace
coil.
distributor
Inspect
the
condition
of
the
contacts.
(c) Coil case or tower c r a c k e d .
(c) Replace the coil.
(d) Oil leak at tower.
(d) Replace the coil.
(e) Coil tower carbon-tracked.
(e) W i p e the tower c l e a n . Test the coil, replace if
necessary.
C O N D E N S E R FAILURE
(a) Normal fatigue.
(a) Test a n d replace the condenser. Inspect distrib-
(b) D a m a g e d by excessive engine heat or
(b) Test a n d replace the condenser. Inspect distrib-
utor contacts for pitting.
utor contacts for pitting.
moisture.
Description
The ignition system consists of two separate circuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast
resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distributor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and the
primary wiring make up the low voltage primary circuit. The secondary high voltage circuit includes the
coil secondary winding, the distributor cap and rotor,
the spark plug cables, the spark plugs and the vehicle
frame.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
S E C O N D A R Y CIRCUIT INSPECTION
The coil to distributor cap wire and the spark plug
wires should make good, clean contact in the ignition
coil, the distributor cap towers and on the spark
plugs. Wires that are loose or are not inserted all the
way into the towers or on the plugs will corrode and
increase the resistance as well as cause carbon tracking of the coil or cap towers.
Make sure the cap nipples and spark plug covers
are in good condition and that they are tight on the
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8-36
IGNITION SYSTEM
spark plug terminals and around the plug insulator.
The ignition coil tower, if oily or dirty should be
wiped clean and inspected for cracks, carbon tracking
or oil leaks. Replace the coil if faulty.
Inspect the distributor cap for oil film, dirt or metal particles on the inside surface. Any contamination,
however slight, can become conducting and cause
hard starting in wet weather. Thoroughly wash the
cap and rotor in a weak solution of liquid soap or
non-flammable detergent in warm water. Do not use
a concentrated solution or soak the cap in the solution. Scrub the inner surfaces with a stiff bristle nylon brush to clean between the ribs and the crevices.
Rinse well in hot water, shake out excess water and
dry thoroughly. Do not use compressed air to dry or
blow out the water. Carefully inspect for cracks or
carbon tracking on the inner or outer surfaces. Replace the cap if faulty.
Old, cracked, or damaged wires should be replaced. The secondary cables, cap and rotor should
be tested, using Tool C-3296. This tester provides
high voltage which is sufficient for testing secondary
insulation.
Replace the cable if resistance is more than 30,000
ohms or if the terminal has pulled off the cable.
NOTE: Jerking the wires to disconnect them from
the plugs can stretch them and increase secondary
resistance. To remove the wire, grasp the boot at
the end of the wire and rotate the boot slightly to
break the adhesion between it and the spark plug
insulator, then use a straight pull to remove the
spark plug.
Resistor type wire is identified by the word "Radio" stamped on the insulating jacket. No additional
resistors are necessary.
The rotor and distributor cap electrodes should be
inspected for burning. Replace the rotor if the electrode is burned on the top or if electrode is worn too
short.
DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE TEST
This test indicates the resistance of the ignition
primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil,
through the contacts and the distributor ground. Excessive resistance in this portion of the ignition system will prevent the coil from producing sufficient
output for good over-all ignition. To perform test,
proceed as follows:
(1) Turn the Selector Switch of a tach-dwell unit to
the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell Calibrator until the Dwell Meter reads on the set line
(test leads separated).
(2) Leave the Selector Switch in the CALIBRATE
position, connect the tach-dwell red lead to the -distributor terminal of the coil and the black lead to a
good ground.
(3) Turn the ignition switch "ON." Observe dwell
meter reading. The meter pointer should be well within the black bar marked "DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE." If the reading is zero or outside of black bar,
crank the engine with the starter until the meter
pointer moves as far to the right as possible. (This
will indicate that the contacts are closed.) A reading
now within the black indicates a normal distributor
primary circuit.
If the reading is outside the black bar, high resistance is present in the distributor primary circuit.
(4) Remove the test lead from the distributor terminal of the coil and connect to the following points:
(a) Distributor primary terminal (outside).
(b) Distributor primary terminal (inside).
(c) Contact point terminal bracket (insulated bracket).
(d) Ground side of the contacts.
(e) Distributor housing.
(5) Repeat the test at each connection until a noticeable change occurs in the meter reading. If a poor
connection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten
or replace as necessary and repeat test (3).
If faulty contacts are indicated, remove the distributor for complete inspection, service, testing and calibration.
IDLE RPM TEST
The engine idle rpm setting should be tested and
recorded as it is when the vehicle is first brought into
the shop for testing. This will assist in diagnosing
complaints of engine stalling or complaints of creeping and hard shifting on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Turn the Selector Switch to the CALIBRATE
position and adjust Dwell Calibrator until the Dwell
Meter reads on the SET line (test leads separated).
(2) Connect the red lead of the test unit to the distributor primary terminal at the coil and the black
lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position.
(4) Turn the tachometer rpm switch to the 1000
rpm position.
(5) With engine at normal operating temperature
(off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and release to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and
that the idle speed screw is against its stop.
(6) Note engine rpm on 1000 rpm scale and adjust
carburetor idle speed to specifications shown in "Fuel
System Specifications."
DISTRIBUTOR CONTACT DWELL
The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of
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IGNITION SYSTEM
rotation through~wHich the breakerncontacts remain
closed. This is also commonly referred to as "dwell
angle" or "cam angle."
Correct distributor contact dwell is essential for
good ignition performance and contact life.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Connect the Tach-Dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.
(2) Turn the selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position.
(3) Start the engine and operate at idle speed.
(4) Observe the dwell meter reading. If the dwell
reading is within "Specifications" the contact gap,
cam rubbing block and contact arm are all in satisfactory condition.
If the dwell reading is not within specifications, incorrect contact gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or
distorted movable contact arm may be indicated.
DUAL C O N T A C T S
Block one set of contacts with a clean insulator and
adjust the opposite set of contacts on the dwell meter
to specifications. Loosen the stationary contact lock
screw just enough, so that the stationary contact can
be moved with a slight drag; otherwise it will be difficult to set the contacts accurately.
When the one set of contacts has been adjusted for
the correct clearance, tighten the stationary contact
lock screw.
Block the adjusted set of contacts with an insulator
and adjust the remaining set of contacts in the same
manner as the first set. Remove insulator and recheck
tightness of the stationary contact lock screw.
If the contacts have been properly adjusted, the
dwell should be as specified for two contact sets.
DWELL V A R I A T I O N
This test indicates the mechanical condition of the
distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical
parts causes dwell variations which will affect ignition
timing.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) With the engine at idle speed, vacuum hose disconnected, and with the test leads connected as in the
contact Dwell Test, turn the Tachometer rpm Switch
to the 5000 rpm position.
(2) Slowly increase the engine speed to 1500 rpm,
then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing the
dwell meter reading.
If the dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees
from the initial reading between idle speed and 1500
rpm, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings
or contact plate bearing or pivot pin is indicated. Remove distributor for complete inspection and testing
on a distributor tester.
NOTE: Dwell variation at speeds above 1500 rpm
8-37
not necessarily indicate distribute
IMPORTANT: Dwell and gap of the contacts must
both be within their specified tolerance at the same
time. If this cannot be accomplished, it is probable
that wrong contacts are installed, rubbing block ©r
the cam lobes are badly worn, or the movable contact is distorted.
IGNITION T I M I N G
To obtain maximum engine performance, the distributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to
give proper ignition timing.
The ignition timing test will indicate the timing of
the spark at NO. 1 cylinder at idle (only).
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor.
(2) Connect the secondary lead of Power Timing
Light to the NO. 1 spark plug, red primary lead to the
positive terminal of the battery and the black primary
lead to the negative battery terminal.
NOTE: Do not puncture the wires, boots or nipples
with test probes. Always use adapters. Puncturing
spark plug wires with a probe will damage the
wires. The probe can separate the conductor and
cause high resistance. In addition breaking the rubber insulation may permit secondary current to arc
to ground.
(3) Start the engine and set the idle to "Specifications" rpm, engine at normal operating temperature
(transmission in neutral).
(4) Using a timing light, observe the position of the
timing mark on the crankshaft damper and check
against the specifications.
(5) Loosen the distributor hold down clamp screw
and rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark on damper aligns with the specified
" B T C " mark on timing plate. (Moving distributor
housing against shaft rotation advances timing and
with shaft rotation retards timing).
(6) Tighten the distributor hold down clamp screw
after the timing has been set and recheck the timing
adjustment with a Power Timing Light.
(7) When the ignition timing is correct, connect
the vacuum hose to the distributor.
NOTE: As the engine speed is increased, the timing
mark should move down on the vibration dampener
below the pointer if advance units are functioning.
DISTRIBUTOR R E M O V A L
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor.
(2) Disconnect the primary lead wire at the coil.
(3) Unfasten the distributor cap retaining clips and
lift off the distributor cap.
(4) Scribe a mark on the edge of the distributor
housing to indicate position of the rotor as reference
when reinstalling the distributor.
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8-38
IGNITION SYSTEM
Fig. 2 — D i s t r i b u t o r — D i s a s s e m b l e d
View
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IGNITION SYSTEM
8-39
CAP
SPRING
CONTACT
LEAD
ROTOR
CONDENSER
SCREW
^
C O N T A C T SET
WASHER
SCREW
WASHER
BREAKER PLATE
SCREW
LEAD
S P R I N G SET
• WEIGHT
SHAFT
WASHER -
CLAMP
BEARING
LOCKWASHER
SCREW
HOUSING
LOCKRING
CLAMP
WASHER
WASHER
SCREW
SCREW
- e — - VACUUM
CHAMBER
OILER
m
*
PIN
GASKET
PLUG
Fig. 3 — D i s t r i b u t o r — D i s a s s e m b l e d
62 x 310
View
(Prestolite)
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8-40
IGNITION SYSTEM
—
(5) Remove the distributor hold-down clamp screw
and the clamp.
(6) Carefully lift the distributor from the engine.
Shaft and Bushing
Wear
Test
(1) Remove the distributor rotor.
(2) Disconnect the primary lead wire at the distributor terminal. DO NOT LOOSEN the inner nut that
holds the movable contact arm tension spring to the
terminal post.
(3) Clamp the ribbed section of the distributor
housing lightly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and
attach the dial indicator to the body of the distributor
with the indicator plunger arm resting against the
movable contact arm at the rubbing block and with
the rubbing block of the contact arm on the highest
point of the cam lobe (Fig. 1).
(4) Place one end of a wire loop around the top of
the distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other
end of the wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of the indicator gauge. Be sure the wire loop on
shaft end is down on the shaft to insure a straight
pull and also that the wire loop does not interfere
with the indicator or holding bracket. Apply a five
pound pull and read the movement of the plunger on
the indicator dial. (Be sure the rubbing block of the
contact arm is on the highest point of the cam lobe
during this test). If the plunger movement exceeds
.006 inch, replace the bushings and/or distributor
shaft, see "Distributor Disassembly."
DISASSEMBLY OF THE DISTRIBUTORS
(1) Remove the distributor rotor.
NOTE: The distributor cap clamp springs on Chrysler built distributors are held in place by peened
metal around the openings and should not be removed.
(2) Remove the retainer attaching the vacuum ad-
TOOL
NY697A
Fig.
5—Removing
Upper
Distributor
Housing
Bushing
vance unit to the contact plate advance arm.
(3) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the vacuum advance unit to the distributor housing and remove the unit.
(4) Remove the primary lead wire and rubber grommet as an assembly. Push the grommet towards the
inside of the distributor to remove. Do not pull the
wire.
(5) Remove the two screws, and lockwashers attaching the contact plate to the housing and lift out
the contact plate, contacts and condenser as an assembly.
(6) Remove the oil wick from the distributor cam
(Fig. 3). Remove the spring clip from the oil well in
the cam (Fig. 4) and remove the cam and yoke assembly and spacer.
(7) If the side play exceeded .006 inch in the "Shaft
and Bushing Wear Test," replace the bushings and/or
distributor shaft as follows:
(a) Remove the distributor drive collar retaining
pin and slide the collar off the end of the shaft.
(b) Use a fine file to clean the burrs from around
the pin hole in the shaft and remove the lower
thrust washer.
(c) Push the shaft up and remove it through the top
of the distributor body. Remove the upper thrust
washer.
(d) Remove the shaft oiler and lift out the oiler
wick.
CAUTION: On Chrysler Built distributors, do not
drive the bushings out of the housing.
Fig. 4—Removing
or Installing
Cam Felt
Wick
(e) Remove the upper bushing with Tool C-3744
(Fig. 5) by threading the tap securely into the bushing. Place the spacer over the tap. Install the tool nut
and, while holding the tap, tighten the tool nut to remove the' bushing. Invert the housing and remove the
lower bushing in the same manner.
MyMopar.com
©IT P r e s M i t e ^
in an arbor press and press out the upper and lower
bushings from the bottom of the housing using driver Tool C-3041.
(f) Soak the new bushing in light engine oil for approximately 15 minutes.
(g) Position the new upper bushing with the hole
in the bushing up and in line with the oil hole in the
housing, then press the bushing into the distributor
housing with Tool C-3041 and adapter (Fig. 6). The
bushing will measure .094 inch below the top of the
housing bore for Prestolite distributors. For the Chrysler built distributors use Tool C-3041 with the flat
face of adapter contacting the bushing then press the
bushing into the distributor until top of bushing is
1.1613 inches from the top of the machined face of
distributor housing. Place a straightedge on the machined surface of the housing and measure from the
bottom face of the straightedge to the top of the bushing. Invert the housing and install the other bushing
(Fig. 7) flush with the face of the distributor base,
(h) Insert a / inch rod through the housing oiler
hole to see if the hole in the bushing indexes with the
oiler hole in the housing. If the rod cannot be inserted
through the housing and the bushing, drill a Vs" hole
through the upper bushing by drilling through the oil
wick hole. Remove burrs caused by the drilling operation.
(i) Install the burnishing tool part of Tool set
C-3041 and force the burnisher through both the bushings (Fig. 8). The correct bushing inside the diameter
is .4995 to .5000 inch.
3
3 2
ASSEMBLING THE DISTRIBUTOR
(1) Test the operation of centrifugal weight and inspect the weight springs for distortion. Lubricate the
61x150
Fig. 7 — I n s t a l l i n g Distributor
Lower
governor weights.
(2) Inspect all bearing surfaces and pivot pins for
roughness, binding or excessive looseness.
(3) Install the cam spacer, chamfered end down on
the distributor shaft.
(4) Slide the cam and yoke on the distributor shaft,
engage the weight lugs with the slots in the yoke. Install the cam retaining spring clip. Be sure it is properly seated in the groove of the distributor shaft.
(5) Lubricate and install the flat thrust washer. Position the washer on the distributor shaft and slide
the shaft into the distributor body. Position the
lower thrust washer and drive the collar on the lower
end of the shaft. Install the retainer pin.
(6) Install the oiler wick and oiler.
(7) Install the contact plate assembly. Align the condenser lead, contact point spring, primary lead and
install the attaching screw.
j
PRESS R A M
<s
T O O L (DRIVER)
Housing
Bushing
PRESS R A M
>
• T O O L (ADAPTER)
TOOL
(BURNISHER)
•
UPPER
^
Upper
Distributor
Bushing
.../
.
v
Fig. 6—Installing
BUSHING
S
61x149
Housing
Fig. 8 — B u r n i s h i n g Distributor
Housing
Bushings
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8-42
IGNITION SYSTEM'
(8) Install the felt wick in the top of the distributor cam.
(9) Attach the vacuum advance unit arm to the contact plate. Install the vacuum unit attaching screws
and washers.
(10) Test the contact arm spring tension, and adjust the contact gap.
(11) Lubricate the felt pad in the top of the distributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of light engine oil and
install the rotor.
k
TOOL
STATIONARY
P--.
CONTACT
\
/
TESTING CONTACT ARM
DIAL
SPRING TENSION
INDICATOR
ARM
(1) Hook a spring scale Tool MTU-36 on the contact arm and pull in a straight line at right angles to
the contact surfaces (Fig. 9). Take a reading as the
contacts start to separate under the slow and steady
pull of the scale. The spring tension should be 17 to
20 ounces. If the reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of the movable arm
contact spring and slide the end of the spring in or out,
as necessary to adjust tension.
(2) Tighten the screw and measure the spring tension.
N O T E : Spring tension that is too great, will cause
excessive wear on the distributor cam and on the
nylon block of the movable contact a r m . Spring
tension that is too weak, is unable to keep the contacts in contact with each other when they close.
This is particularly true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring.
INSTALLING A N D ALIGNING CONTACTS
(1) Remove the old contacts and install a new set.
N O T E : Touching the contact faces with fingers during installation will cause burning of contacts during
operation.
(2) Align the contacts to obtain center contact, by
bending the stationary contact bracket only. Never
bend the movable arm to obtain alignment.
(3) After aligning the contacts, readjust the contact
61x148 A
F i g . 7 0 — A d j u s t i n g Point Clearance
with
Indicator
clearance to specifications using a dial indicator (Fig.
10).
(4) Test the dwell angle to show proper degrees of
closure. See Paragraph "Distributor Contact Dwell."
The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that
the stationary bracket can be moved with a slight
drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set the contacts
accurately. After setting the contacts to correct the
gap, tighten the lock screw.
DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION
.
.
(1) Add 3 to 5 drops of SAE 10W oil to the oiler
on the outside of the distributor base.
(2) Lubricate the felt pad under the rotor in the
top of the distributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of SAE
10W oil.
(3) Wipe all old grease from surface of the distributor cam. Apply a light film of new distributor cam
lubricant number 1473595.
Do not over-lubricate. Excess grease will be thrown
from the distributor cam when the engine is running. Should this grease strike the contact faces,
arcing and burning of the contacts will result and
ignition trouble will be experienced.
TESTING DISTRIBUTOR A D V A N C E
BREAKER A R M
AND
Centrifugal
SPRING
Advance
Curve
Note the model number of the distributor and refer
to the specifications before making this test.
Mount the distributor assembly (less cap and rotor)
in a reliable stroboscope-type distributor tester and
proceed with tests as follows:
PULL
SCALE
61x154 A
F i g . 9 — T e s t i n g Breaker
Arm Spring
Tension
N O T E : Clamp around the rib section of the distributor housing. T h e bottom section of the distributor housing is not a machined surface and concentricity would be affected, causing a wobble.
(1) Turn the Tach-Dwell switch to the 8 "LORE"
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IGNITION SYSTEM
position and the Motor'Switch to correct ^dire^oiTof
rotation. Refer to "Distributor Advance Specifications" in this Manual.
(2) Turn the battery switch "ON."
(3) Regulate the tester speed control to operate the
distributor at 200 distributor rpm.
(4) Hold the distributor contact plate in the full retard position and align the "O" of the distributor
tester degree ring with any one of the arrow flashes.
(5) Adjust the tester speed control to operate the
distributor at speeds called for under "Specifications"
and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring
to determine degrees of advance.
(6) If the advance is not according to specifications,
corrections can be made by bending the primary and
secondary spring tabs to increase or decrease the
spring tension. The governor spring tabs can be
reached through the access hole at the breaker plate.
Rotate the shaft until the proper spring and tab lines
up with the access holes. Insert a screwdriver blade
through the access hole and bend the spring tab
toward the distributor cam to decrease spring tension
and advance the spark, or away from the distributor
cam to increase the spring tension and retard the
spark.
NOTE: The light tension spring controls the lower
end of the advance curve, and the heavier spring
controls the upper end of the advance curve.
Vacuum
Diaphragm
Leak
Test
With distributor mounted in distributor tester and
with the vacuum unit attached to the distributor, proceed as follows:
(1) Place the thumb over the end of the vacuum
pump and hose and adjust the regulator control
knob to give a reading of 20 inches with hose closed
off to be sure tester hose does not leak.
(2) Attach the tester vacuum pump hose to the
tube on the distributor vacuum unit. The vacuum
gauge should hold on maximum vacuum obtainable if
no leak exists.
(3) Observe the contact plate while performing the
leak test to test response of the contact plate. There
should be instant response to the pull of the diaphragm, moving the plate without a drag or bind.
(4) If leakage is indicated, replace the vacuum unit
assembly.
Vacuum
Advance
Curve
Connect the tester vacuum pump hose to the distributor vacuum advance unit and perform operations 1 through 5 under "Centrifugal Advance Curve."
Then proceed as follows:
(1) Turn the tester vacuum pump "ON." Adjust the
vacuum pump regulator to vacuum test specifications.
See "Specifications" and observe the arrow flashes on
the tester degree ring to determine the degrees of advance.
8-43
(2) i f thevacuumMvanceisn^ove of beKwspecifications, replace the vacuum advance unit. Retest the
vacuum advance curve.
INSTALLATION O F DISTRIBUTOR
(1) Position the distributor on the engine. Align the
rotor with marks previously scribed on the distributor housing.
(2) Engage the tongue of the distributor shaft
with the slot in the distributor and the oil pump drive
gear.
NOTE: If the engine has been cranked while the
distributor is removed, it will be necessary to establish the proper relationship between the distributor shaft and the NO. 1 piston position as follows:
(a) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top of the compression stroke.
(b) Rotate the rotor to the position of the number
one distributor cap terminal.
(c) Lower the distributor into the opening, connect
the primary lead and install the distributor cap. Make
sure all high tension wires "snap" firm in the cap
towers. Install the distributor hold-down clamp screw.
Tighten the screw finger tight.
(d) Connect the secondary lead of a Power Timing Light to the NO. 1 spark plug (using proper adapter). Connect the red primary lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the black primary lead to the
negative battery terminal.
(e) Start and operate the engine at idle speed. Rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark and the pointer are in alignment. (Moving
the distributor housing against the shaft rotation advances the timing and with the shaft rotation retards
the timing.)
(f) At low altitudes, with any good grade of the
recommended gasoline, either "regular" or "premium," the engine will give its best performance i f
timed according to specifications.
When using low grade fuels, or after carbon has
accumulated, objectionable spark ping may occur
with the specified timing. In case of this nature, ignition timing should be retarded, but not to exceed 5
degrees of crankshaft rotation later than specified.
At high altitudes or when using higher quality gasoline, for example, "premium" where "regular" is
specified or "super premium" where "premium" is
specified, there is less tendency for spark ping. In
such cases, improved performance may be obtained
by advancing the spark not to exceed 5 degrees of
crankshaft rotation ahead of specified timing.
Within the foregoing limits, namely, from 5 degrees ahead to 5 degrees later than specified timing, a
good rule to follow is to advance the spark until a
slight ping is heard when accelerating to 15 mph
in direct drive at wide open throttle, with hot engine.
MyMopar.com
8-44
IGNITION SYSTEM
(g) Tighten the distributor clamp screw after the
timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.
(h) If the timing is correct, connect the vacuum
hose to the distributor and remove the timing light
from the engine.
Ignition
Timing
(with C-744
Test
Lamp)
(1) Connect the C-744 test lamp between the distributor primary terminal and the battery positive
post.
(2) Turn engine until the number 6 exhaust valve is
just closing; continue turning the engine slowly until
the specified degree mark on the crankshaft pulley
is at the pointer.
(3) Loosen the distributor clamp bolt so that the
distributor housing can be rotated with a slight drag,
then turn the distributor in the normal rotation until
the test lamp lights.
(4) Turn the distributor against normal distributor
rotation until the test lamp goes out.
NOTE: If the test lamp lights immediately when
connected, turn the distributor against normal distributor rotation until light goes out.
(5) Tighten the distributor clamp bolt securely and
remove test lamp. If the operation is performed properly the engine is timed to specifications.
NOTE: If the engine is turned beyond the timing
mark, continue turning the engine for two full revolutions of the crankshaft; this will place the distributor rotor in approximately the initial position.
CAUTION: DO NOT reverse the rotation of the
crankshaft if you have passed the timing mark as
this would affect valve timing and distributor timing.
IGNITION COIL
The ignition coil is designed to operate with an
external ballast resistor. When testing the coil for output, include the resistor in tests.
Inspect the coil for external leaks and arcing. A l ways make two tests when testing the coil. One when
the coil is cold, the other after the coil has been
warmed up.
Test the coil according to the coil tester Manufacturer's instructions. Test the coil primary resistance.
Test the ballast resistor resistance. Test the coil secondary resistance. Replace any coil and ballast resistor that does not meet specifications.
Every time an ignition coil is replaced because of
a burned tower, carbon tracking or any evidence of
arcing at the tower, the nipple or boot on the coil
end of the secondary lead should be replaced. Any
arcing at the tower will carbonize the nipple so that
placing it on a new coil will invariably cause another
coil failure.
If the secondary lead shows any signs of damage,
the lead should be replaced with a new lead with the
neoprene nipple since the oil lead can cause arcing,
and therefore, ruin a new coil.
Ballast
Resistor
The ballast resistor is a compensating resistance in
the ignition primary circuit. During low speed operation, when the primary circuit current flow is high, the
ballast resistor temperature rises, increasing the resistance. This reduces the current flow, thereby prolonging ignition contact life. At high speed operation,
when the primary current flow is low, the ballast resistance cools off allowing more current flow, which
is required for high speed operation. During starter
operation, the ballast resistor is bypassed, allowing
full battery voltage to the ignition primary circuit.
S P A I K PLUGS
To insure peak performance, spark plugs should be
removed, cleaned, tested and regapped periodically,
depending on driving conditions. Worn and dirty plugs
may give satisfactory operation at idling speed but
may fail under operation conditions. Spark plug appearance or conditions can reflect a wide variety of
engine conditions as follows:
Normal
Conditions
Normal conditions Fig. 1. This plug has been running at the correct temperature in a "healthy" engine.
The few deposits present will probably be light tan or
gray in color with most regular grades of commercial
gasoline. Electrode burning will not be in evidence;
gap growth will average not more than about .001"/
1000 miles. Chances are the plug, as pictured, could
be cleaned, the gap electrodes filed, regapped and
reinstalled with good results.
Cold
Fouling
Cold fouling or carbon deposits, (Fig. 2). This dry
black appearance is fuel carbon and can be due to
over rich fuel-air mixture, possibly resulting from a
faulty choke, clogged air cleaner, improper carbu-
63x69::
Fig.
I—Normal
Conditions
MyMopar.com
IGNITION SYSTEM
Fig. 2—Cold
retor idle adjustment, or dirty carburetor. However,
if only one or two plugs in a set are fouled like this
it's a good idea to check for sticking valves or defective ignition leads. This condition also results from
prolonged operation at idle. If the car is operated extensively at idle and low speeds, improved plug service will be obtained by using the next step hotter
spark plugs.
Wet
Fig. 5—Core
Fowling
Fouling
Wet fouling, (Fig. 3) tells you that the plug has
drowned in excess oil. In an old engine, suspect worn
rings or excessive cylinder wear. In OHV engines, too
much oil may be coming in past the valve guides. Use
of a hotter plug may relieve such fouling, but plugs
can't take the place of needed engine overhaul.
Fouling
Bridging
N O T E : Remember that "break-in" fouling of new
engines may occur before normal oil control is
achieved. In new or recently overhauled jobs, such
fouling plugs can be cleaned and reinstalled.
Splashed
Fouling
Splashed fouling, (Fig. 4) may sometimes occur after
a long-delayed tune-up. Here, deposits accumulated
after a long period of msisfiring may be suddenly
loosened when normal combustion temperatures are
restored upon installation of new plugs. During a high
speed run, these materials shedding off the combustion chamber are thrown against the hot insulator surface. If they happen to short out the plug, they can be
removed with regular cleaning techniques. The plugs
can then be reinstalled with good results as the engine has scavenged itself.
Fig. 6 — G a p
Fig. 4—Splashed
8-45
Fig. 7—High
Bridging
Speed
Glazing
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8-46
IGNITION SYSTEM'
Core Bridging
Core bridging, (Fig. 5) will be encountered only
rarely in automotive engines. It's usually due to the
same conditions described under splashed deposits.
In this case, a chunk of deposit was thrown off the
piston and formed a bridge between the insulator and
shell. Result: A "dead short." Such evidence of excessive combustion chamber deposits will be most
common where oil control is poor . . . or where vehicles are usually driven in slow speed, start-stop service. In such instances, it usually pays to physically remove accumulated deposits from the engine.
Gap bridging, (Fig. 6) is also relatively rare in automotive engines. It also may be traced to flying deposits in the combustion chamber. In a few cases,
fluffy deposits may accumulate on the plugs during
in-town driving; when the engine is suddenly put under high load, this material can melt and bridge the
gap.
Glazing
High speed glazing may cause misfiring at speeds
above 50-60 mph. The shiny deposit, (Fig. 7) may be
yellow or tan In color. It usually suggests that temperatures have suddenly risen during a hard acceleration. As a result normal deposits do not get a chance
to fluff off the plug . . . instead they melt and form
a conductive coating. If this continues to reoccur, suggest a colder heat range and regular spark plug cleanings.
Scavenger Deposits
Fuel scavenger deposits, (Fig. 8) may be white or
yellow in color. They may appear to be bad, but this
is a normal appearance with certain branded fuels.
Such materials are designed to change the chemical
nature of deposits to lessen misfire tendencies. Notice
that accumulation on the ground electrode and shell
areas may be unusually heavy, but the material is easily flaked off. Such plugs can be considered normal
'.:
Fig. 8 — S c a v e n g e r
9—Overheating
in condition, and can be cleaned with standard procedures.
Gap Bridging
High Speed
Fig.
Overheating
Overheating, (Fig. 9) is indicated by a white or light
gray Insulator which appears "blistered." Electrode
gap wear rate will be considerable In excess of .001"/
1000 miles. This suggests that a cooler heat range
should be used . . . however, overadvanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system stoppages can
also overheat the correct spark plug heat ranges.
Turbulence
Burning
Turbulence burning, (Fig. 10) causes electrodes to
wear away on one side. This is the result of normal
turbulence patterns in the combustion chambers of
certain engines. It can be ignored if normal plug life
Is being obtained. If gap growth appears excessive, review the corrective measures suggested under overheating.
Initial Pre-ignition
Damage
Initial preignition damage may be caused by excessive temperatures, (Fig. 11) this produces melting of the center electrode and, somewhat later, the
ground electrode. Remember that the spark plug is
like an electric fuse . . . when it melts, it warns you to
look for the causes, and for damage to the engine such
as scuffed pistons, burned pistons or burned valves.
Inspect for correct spark plug heat range, overadvanced Ignition timing, loose spark plugs, burned
63x704
63x70211
Deposits
Fig. 70—Turbulence
Burning
MyMopar.com
V
'
•
_
63x707
63x7051
Fig. 7 I — I n i t i a l Pre-lgnition
Fig. 7 3 - — C h i p p e d
Damage
Insulator
head gasket, excessive detonation due to low octane
fuel and for similar causes of overheating.
Sustained
Pre-ignition
Damage
Sustained preignition damage, (Fig. 12) usually involves melting of the ceramic firing tip. Since this requires temperatures above 1700F, it's a good possibility that other components of the engine may have
been damaged by preignition. This is another sure
sign that careful inspection of the engine and its
adjustments is required.
Fig. 7 4 — M e c h a n i c a l
Chipped
Damage
Insulator
Chipped insulator, (Fig. 13) usually results from
bending the center electrode during regapping of the
plug. Under certain conditions, severe detonation can
also split insulator firing ends. In a four-cycle engine,
a piece of ceramic like this is easily blown out through
the exhaust.
Mechanical
Damage
Mechanical damage to the firing end, (Fig. 14) is
caused by some foreign object in the combustion
chamber. Since small objects can travel from one cylinder to another, always check the other cylinders to
prevent reoccurrence of damage.
Inspect the distributor cap for oil film or dirt.
Fig. 7 2 — S u s t a i n e d Pre-lgnition
Damage
Pressure
Type
Gap
Tool
Pressure type gap tools, if improperly used, impose
a tremendously high unit pressure on the center electrode, (Fig. 15). This is because of compression being
exerted between the end of the center electrode and
the top of the shell. If too much force is applied thru
leverage multiplication, the center electrode seal on
any type or brand of spark plug is likely to be damaged. There are several of these pliers type gap tools
on the market.
Reversed
Coil
Polarity
Reversed coil polarity can often be detected by
Fig. 7 5 — P r e s s u r e Type
Gap Tool
Damage
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8-48
LIGHTING SYSTEM—DIAGNOSIS
"dishing" of the ground electrode. Note in (Fig. 16)
that the center electrode is usually not worn badly.
This source of misfiring and rough idle can be corrected by reversing the primary coil leads. An oscilloscope is the surest way to detect reversed polarity.
While these examples may not be conclusive in all
instances, they may indicate possible corrective procedures and further diagnosis may be necessary.
Cleaning
and
Regapping
Carefully clean the spark plugs in an abrasive type
cleaner. Use a pin type feeler gauge to check spark
plug gap. Reset gaps to .035 inch.
Before setting spark plug gap, file center electrode
flat, make adjustment by bending ground (side)
electrode, never bend the center electrode.
Inspect the spark plug cables, coil secondary (high
tension) cable, nipples and covers for cracks, wear
and fraying. Always use the neoprene insulating nip-
F i g . 7 6 — R e v e r s e d Coil
Polarity
pies whenever it becomes necessary to replace high
tension cables or nipples. Inspect for loose terminals.
When installing spark plugs, tighten to 30 footpounds.
PART 5
LIGHTING SYSTEM
HEADLAMPS
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
(a) Charge battery.
HEADLAMPS DIM
(a) Partly discharged battery.
(engine idling or shut
(b) Faulty cells in the battery.
(b)
off)
(c) High resistance in the headlamp circuit.
(c) Test headlamp circuit including ground connection. Make necessary repairs.
(d) Faulty sealed beam units.
(d) Replace sealed beam units.
(a) High resistance in the headlamp circuit.
(a) Test headlamp circuit including ground con-
(b) Faulty sealed beam units.
(b) Replace the sealed beam units.
(c) Test voltage control and alternator. Make nec-
HEADLAMPS DIM
nection. Make necessary repairs.
(engine running above
idle)
Replace battery.
(c) Faulty voltage control unit.
essary repairs.
HEADLAMPS FLICKER
(a) Loose connections or damaged wires in the
(a) Tighten connections and inspect for damaged
wiring.
headlamp circuit.
(b) Headlamp wiring insulation damaged produc-
(b)
Test headlamp wiring and replace or tape
damaged wires.
ing momentary short.
HEADLAMPS BURN O U T
(a) High voltage regulator setting.
(a) Adjust voltage regulator.
FREQUENTLY
(b) Loose connections in the headlamp circuit.
(b)
HEADLAMPS WILL N O T
(a) Discharge battery.
(a) Recharge battery a n d correct cause.
LIGHT
(b) Loose connections in the headlamp circuit.
(b)
(c)
(c) Burned out lamps.
(d) O p e n or corroded
contacts in the headlamp
Inspect circuit for loose connections.
Tighten connections.
Replace bulbs or sealed beam unit.
(d) Replace the headlamp switch.
switch.
(e) Open or corroded contact in the dimmer switch.
(e) Replace dimmer switch.
MyMopar.com
LIGHTING SYSTEM
8-49
PART 5
LIGHTING
Description
The dual headlamp system consists of four sealed
beam headlamps.
The two outer lamps are of the two filament type
for low and high beam and are marked by a numeral 2 moulded in the lamp lens.
The two inner lamps have only one filament and are
marked with a numeral 1 moulded in the glass.
SYSTEM
The lamps cannot be installed wrong as the mounting lugs for the number one (1) and the number two
(2) lamps are offset at different angles.
The number one (1) lamp provides the high intensity "reach" down the highway and the off focus
filament in the number 2 lamp provides the "body"
light which illuminates the side of the road, ditches,
etc.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Pre-Aiming
Instructions
Compensating
(1) Test the dimmer switch for faulty operation.
(2) Test the high beam indicator: Indicates that high
beam is in operation when lighted.
(3) For badly rusted or faulty headlamp assem-
blies: These conditions must be corrected before a
satisfactory adjustment can be made.
(4) Place the vehicle on a level floor.
(5) Measure the front suspension height: Adjust to
specifications as necessary.
(6) Inspect the tire inflation.
(7) Rock the vehicle sideways to allow the vehicle
to assume its normal position.
(8) If the gasoline tank is not full, place a weight
in the trunk of vehicle to simulate the weight of the
gasoline normally carried in the tank (6% pounds per
gallon).
(9) There should be no other load in the vehicle
other than the driver or a substituted weight of approximately 150 pounds placed in the driver's position.
(10) Remove the headlamp front trim panel. Do not
remove the seal beam retainer rims.
(11) Thoroughly clean the headlamp lenses.
the
Aimers
(1) Place the transit on the floor in line with a vertical center line of the right front wheel (Fig. 1).
Place the split image target in like position at the right
rear wheel.
(2) Adjust the range screw on the transit until the
target split image coincides or merges into one unbroken line.
NOTE: Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the
transit and that target image is centered in the
viewing port of the transit.
(3) Turn the dial on one side of the transit until
the bubble in the spirit level is centered.
(4) When the bubble is centered, note "plus" or
"minus" reading on the compensator scale. This figure
indicates the degree of slope of the floor and must be
transferred to each aimer as follows:
(5) With a screwdriver, turn the adjusting slot of
the floor level compensator in each aimer, until the
correct plus or minus figure (or fractional part) appears in the proper window (Fig. 2).
F i g . 2 — A d j u s t i n g the Floor
F i g . I — D e t e r m i n i n g the Slope
of the
Floor
Compensator
in the
Level
Aimers
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Mounting
(Fig. 4)
and Adjusting
the
Aimers
If the aimers are suspected of being out of adjustment refer to Paragraph 2 "Aiming the Headlamps."
(1) While holding an aimer in alignment with the
lens of one outer headlamp, bring the aimer up to and
against the headlamp lens.
NOTE: Make certain that the headlamp lens pads
are making full contact with the aimer mounting
flange and that the aimer target is facing inboard.
Fig.
3—Inspecting
Testing Aimer
(Fig. 3)
the Aimer
for
Calibration
Calibration
(1) Using a carpenter or stone mason level of
known accuracy, locate a true vertical plate glass
window or smooth surface.
(2) Set
the
DOWN-UP pointer on
DOWN 2.
(3) Set the RIGHT-LEFT pointer and floor level
compensator at " 0 . "
(4) Secure the aimers to the glass or smooth surface three to five feet apart so that the split image
targets can be located in the viewing ports.
(5) If the bubble is centered in the vial, the vertical calibration is correct. If the bubble is not centered, make the down-up adjustment by rotating level
adjusting screw until the bubble is centered in the
spirit level.
(6) The horizontal aim is correct if the targets on
opposite aimers are aligned in the viewing ports. I f
the targets are not aligned in the viewing ports, rotate the mirror adjusting screw until the target split
image becomes aligned.
(2) Push the release lever forward (to expel air from
the suction cup) and while holding the aimer firmly
against the headlamp aiming pads, pull the release lever back until the spring lock engages in the slot.
(3) Mount the second aimer on the other outer
headlamp, in the same manner.
(4) On each aimer, set the pointer to the numeral
2 on the DOWN side of the DOWN-UP scale.
(5) On each aimer position the pointer of the
RIGHT-LEFT scale at 2 RIGHT.
TESTING HEADLAMP A I M
Follow the instructions as outlined in Pre-Aiming
Instructions.
NOTE: Do not remove the headlamp rims.
Horizontal
Test
Turn the RIGHT-LEFT scale knob until the split
image is in alignment. If the RIGHT or L E F T portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the
lamps should be aimed.
N O T E : Values given represent inches at 25 feet.
RIGHT
LEFT
No. 1 UNIT
4
4
No. 2 UNIT
4
0
Vertical
Test
Turn DOWN-UP scale knob until the spirit level is
VERTICAL A D J U S T M E N T SCREWS
H O R I Z O N T A L A D J U S T M E N T SCREWS
Fig.
4—Mounting
and Adjusting
the
Aimers
Fig. 5—Headlamp.
Adjustment
Points
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LIGHTING SYSTEM
centered. If DOWN or UP portion of the scale exceeds
the following values, the lamps should be aimed.
DOWN
UP
No. 1 UNIT
y to ZVi
0
No. 2 UNIT
V to 3V2
0
2
2
ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS
(FIG. 5)
Horizontal
Adjustment
(1) With the pointer of the RIGHT-LEFT scale still
set at ZERO, sight through the aimer viewing port.
NOTE: Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the aimer and that the target image is centered in the viewing port of the aimer,
(2) While sighting through the viewing port of the
aimer, turn the horizontal adjusting screw (Fig. 4) on
the headlamp until the split image target line merges
into one unbroken line.
NOTE: To remove the backlash, be sure to make a
final adjustment by turning the headlamp horizontal adjusting screw in a clockwise direction.
(3) Make the horizontal adjustment on the other
outboard headlamp in the same manner.
(4) Remove the aimers, from the outboard headlamps, by releasing the spring lock at the (bottom) of
the aimer and pushing the release lever forward.
NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the aimers by
pulling them away from the headlamp lens—slide
the suction cup downward and away from the lens.
Vertical
Adjustment
8-51
"
(1) Turn the vertical adjusting screw on the headlamp in a counterclockwise direction to bring the bubble of the spirit level on the aimer to the vehicle
side of center. Use care to avoid disturbing the installed position of the aimers. Then turn the screw
clockwise until the bubble is centered for correct aim
and elimination of backlash.
(2) Make the vertical adjustment on the other
outer unit in the same manner.
(3) Recheck the target alignment on each side and
readjust the horizontal aim, if necessary.
Proceed to adjust the inner units by following the
instructions as outlined for the outer headlamps. Install the headlamp trim panels, when the adjustments
have been performed.
HEADLAMP SEALED-BEAM REPLACEMENT
Lens, filament and reflector are sealed into one unit
which can be removed as follows:
(1) Remove the screws from the headlamp panel
and remove the panel. Use care to avoid damaging the
glass headlamp cover.
(2) Remove the screw from the interior retaining
ring, and remove the ring.
NOTE: Do not disturb the headlamp aiming screws.
(3) Pull out the sealed-beam unit and disconnect
the connector, pulling it straight off.
(4) Install the new sealed-beam unit.
(5) Install the unit retaining ring and headlamp
panel.
NOTE: Each lamp in the dual headlamp assembly
can be removed in the above manner.
MyMopar.com
8-52
INSTRUMENTS—DIAGNOSIS-
PART 6
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
INSTRUMENTS
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause
Condition
ALL G A U G E S READ
HIGH ("against the
Correction
(a) Faulty voltage limiter (stuck points or an open
(a) Test voltage limiter.
heater coil).
peg") AFTER I G N I T I O N
S W I T C H IS TURNED
(b) Cluster not properly grounded to panel.
(b) Tighten cluster mounting screws.
(a) Faulty voltage limiter or a n open circuit on
(a) Test voltage
"ON"
G A U G E POINTERS D O
NOT MOVE
WHEN
battery side (input of
limiter).
limiter. Test wiring,
repair
or
replace a s necessary.
IGNITION SWITCH
IS TURNED
"ON"
TEMPERATURE A N D OIL
G A U G E S * INDICATE
NORMAL
OPERATION
(a) Fuel tank sending unit or instrument panel fuel
(a) Test sending unit and gauge.
g a u g e is faulty,
(b) Test fuel tank for a good ground.
(b) Fuel tank is improperly grounded.
BUT THE FUEL G A U G E
N O T E : Testing the system with the tank send-
INDICATES A HIGHER
ing unit positioned for both "empty" a n d "full"
OR L O W E R FUEL LEVEL
is usually sufficient to determine the calibra-
T H A N A C T U A L L Y EXISTS
tion in the range between these positions.
FUEL A N D O I L G A U G E S * (a) Faulty instrument
panel
temperature
INDICATE CORRECTLY
wiring or faulty temperature
BUT TEMPERATURE
engine.
gauge,
sending unit in
(a) Test wiring, repair or replace as necessary.
Test gauge a n d sending unit.
G A U G E INDICATES
HIGHER O R L O W E R
TEMPERATURE
THAN
ACTUAL ENGINE
TEMPERATURE
ERRATIC TEMPERATURE
(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections.
GAUGE OPERATION*
ERRATIC O P E R A T I O N
O F FUEL G A U G E
(a) Clean a n d tighten all electrical connections
and test the gauge operation.
(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections or faulty
fuel tank sending unit.
(a) Test fuel gauge sending unit, a n d proceed a s
follows:
(1) C l e a n a n d
tighten all
electrical con-
nections.
(2) Make sure that the fuel tank
sending
unit is grounded to the tank a n d that the tank
is grounded to the frame.
ERRATIC OIL G A U G E
(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections.
OPERATION*
* O i l G a u g e a n d Temperature Gauge—Model AY-1
(a) C l e a n a n d tighten all
electrical connections
and test the gauge operation.
only.
MyMopar.com
INSTRUMENTS—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Possible Cause
~
8-53
Correction
TURN SIGNALS
EXTERNAL LAMPS
(a) Faulty pilot bulb in instrument cluster.
(a) Replace bulb.
OPERATE NORMALLY,
N O INDICATIONS
ON
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
SYSTEM D O E S N O T
(a) Faulty flasher unit.
(a) R e p l a c e flasher.
FLASH
(b) Faulty external bulb.
(b) Replace faulty bulb.
(c) Faulty contact in switch.
(c) Replace switch.
SYSTEM D O E S N O T
(a) Broken or loose cancelling finger.
(a) Replace cancelling finger.
CANCEL
(b) Improperly aligned cancelling finger.
(b) Align cancelling finger properly.
(c) Broken or faulty switch.
(c) R e p l a c e switch.
(a) O p e n circuit in feed wire to switch.
(a) C h e c k wiring circuits. Refer to "Wiring D i a -
(b) Faulty fuse.
(b) Replace fuse.
(a) Loose or corroded external lamp ground c o n -
(a)
AFTER
COMPLETION O F
TURN
ENTIRE S Y S T E M D O E S
grams"
N O T OPERATE
PILOT LAMP ILLUMIN A T E S BRIGHTLY,
C l e a n a n d tighten ground connection,
nection.
EXTERNAL LAMPS
G L O W S DIMLY W I T H
NO
FLASH
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
IGNITION
CIRCUIT
SENTRY
SIGNAL
GAUGES
OIL
> A
[
IGNITION
CIRCUIT
S<
5 VOLTS
SENDING
UNITS
G
n _ a
LAMP
IND.
IGN.
TANK
FUEL
RELAY
COOLANT
TEMPERATURE
OIL
PRESSURE
IGNITION.
CIRCUIT
R
w-sATANK
ENGINE
COOLANT
SWITCH
LOW OIL
PRESSURE
SWITCH
GROUND
f
SENDING
NK698
Fig. 7—Gouge
Circuits—Model
AY-1
MyMopar.com
8-54
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
Description
Gauge
Operation
Model
(Fig. 1)
The cluster is equipped with an oil, temperature
and fuel gauge. Also, in the cluster, is a "Sentry Signal" which serves as a warning to the driver when the
oil pressure is low, the engine coolant temperature is
above normal or the level of fuel in the fuel tank is
low.
The oil and temperature gauges use the 5 volt regulated voltage from the fuel gauge and the respective
sending units on the engine. For service procedures
for the oil and temperature gauges refer to "Testing
Gauges."
The fuel gauge uses a tank sending unit and a fuel
relay that is in series in the circuit between the
fuel gauge and the fuel tank sending unit. For service
procedures refer to "Testing Gauges." When the fuel
level is low the movement of the float arm, in the
fuel tank, causes a current flow change through the
fuel relay which activates a "holding" circuit in the
relay. This applies a ground to the "Sentry Signal"
to light the bulb. Whenever the ignition circuit of
the vehicle is activated, voltage is available to the
"Sentry Signal."
For the oil pressure and engine coolant temperature
operation of the "Sentry Signal" a separate pair of
engine units are used. The oil pressure circuit uses an
oil pressure sending switch which is electrically
"closed" when the oil pressure is below the normal
operating range. When the switch is "closed" a ground
is applied to the "Sentry Signal" to light the bulb.
The engine coolant temperature operation of the
"Sentry Signal" uses a temperature sensing switch. A
bi-metal strip, inside the switch, makes contact with
the "R" terminal of the switch when the coolant temperature is above normal. This applies a ground circuit to the "Sentry Signal" to light the bulb.
Gauge
AC-2
Operation
Models
AC-1,
and A C - 3
The cluster is equipped with a fuel gauge, an oil
pressure indicator and an engine coolant temperature
indicator.
The fuel gauge is the thermal type and operates on
a principle of constant voltage being applied. The
gauge is sensitive to changes in fuel level only.
The oil pressure indicator is controlled by the low
oil pressure switch on the engine. When the oil pressure is below normal the switch is electrically "closed"
and applies a ground circuit to light the indicator
bulb.
The engine coolant temperature indicator uses two
bulbs in the instrument cluster and a coolant temperature sensing switch on the engine (Fig. 2). When
the coolant temperature is cold the bi-metal strip, inside the switch, makes contact with the "G" terminal
of the switch which applies a ground circuit to the
"cold" or green bulb on the cluster. When the coolant
temperature is above the normal range the bi-metal
strip makes contact with the "R" terminal of the
switch which applies a ground circuit to the "hot" or
red bulb on the cluster. Through the action of the ignition switch the "hot" bulb of the indicator is momentarily "proofed" everytime the engine is started.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
VOLTAGE LIMITER
Model A Y - 1
The constant voltage is provided through the use
of a voltage limiter contained inside the fuel gauge
case.
The constant voltage is connected in parallel to the
gauges and provides the same regulated voltage to the
gauges.
The terminals on the fuel gauge are marked as
follows:
"A—is the output terminal for the controlled voltage from the limiter.
"I"—is the 12 volt input voltage terminal to the
voltage limiter.
"S"—is the terminal for the connection to the sending unit.
The gauges (related to the thermal system) that do
not contain the limiter will have only the controlled
voltage terminal and the terminal for the connection
to the sending unit.
Models
A C - 7 , A C - 2 and A C - 3
Constant voltage is provided through a voltage
limiter mounted on the back of the instrument cluster
and is connected in parallel to the gauges and provides the same regulated voltage to the gauges.
Testing
the Voltage
Limiter
in the
Vehicle
A quick test to determine if the voltage limiter is
operating is to connect one lead of a voltmeter or
test lamp to the temperature sending unit and the
other lead to a good ground (leave the sending unit
lead wire attached to the sending unit.) Turn the ignition switch to the "on" position. A fluctuating voltmeter or flashing lamp indicates the voltage limiter is
operating.
Testing the Voltage
Limiter—
Instrument Cluster
Removed
M o d e l — •
Connect a jumper wire from the positive post of
a 12 volt battery to the " I " terminal of the fuel gauge.
MyMopar.com
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
Connect another jumper wire from the battery negative post to the fuel gauge case (ground) on Chrysler
Models or to the printed circuit ground strap on Imperial Models.
Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the
battery negative post. Touch the positive lead of the
voltmeter to the "I" terminal of the fuel gauge. A
reading of 12 volts should be shown on the voltmeter. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the
" A " terminal of the fuel gauge. A fluctuating reading
between 0 and 7 volts should be shown on the voltmeter. The same fluctuating reading should be shown
at the " S " terminal of the fuel gauge. Any other readings indicate the voltage limiter is not functioning
properly and the fuel gauge should be replaced.
Models A C - 1 , A C - 2 and A C - 3
Connect a jumper wire from the positive post of a
12 volt test battery to the voltage limiter input terminal. Connect another jumper wire from the battery negative terminal to the voltage limiter case
(ground).
Connect the negative lead of a voltmter to the
battery negative post. Touch the positive lead of the
voltmeter to the input terminal of the voltage limiter. A reading of 12 volts should be shown on the
voltmeter.
Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the
output terminal of the voltage limiter. A fluctuating
reading between 0 and 7 volts should be shown on
the voltmeter, any other reading indicates the voltage
limiter is not functioning properly and should be replaced.
FUEL LEVEL INDICATING SYSTEM
Turning the key on connects the system to the battery or charging system voltage. The voltage from the
battery or charging system is regulated by a constant voltage limiter to a constant voltage of approximately 5 volts D.C.
When the fuel level is low or tank is empty, the resistance is increased which decreases the current flow
and consequently positions the panel gauge pointer to
low or empty.
When the tank is full, the float level is at the top,
the minimum resistance is in the circuit and the flow
or current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge
pointer will be moved across the dial to indicate a
full tank.
Tank Unit
A float arm is hinged to allow the float to raise or
lower dependent on the fuel level. The float connects
to a variable resistance that provides a change in the
resistance with any up or down motion of the float
through a wiping contact in the gauge body.
Testing
in the
Fuel L ^ e / Tncficcifing
Vehicle
8-55
System
Raise the vehicle on a lift. Disconnect the terminal
from tank unit. Attach one lead of the Gauge Tester
(Tool C-3826) to the disconnected terminal. Connect
the other lead of the tester to a good ground.
With the ignition switch turned on and the gauge
tester in the " L " position, the fuel gauge should show
"E" or minus / inch. This tolerance permits a small
reserve of fuel at the "E" position. For Models AY-1
when the tester is in the " L " position the "Sentry
Signal" on the cluster should be illuminated.
With the gauge tester in the " M " position, the fuel
gauge should slowly advance to the Vi position, plus
or minus Vic, inch. With the gauge tester in the " H "
position the fuel gauge should advance to "F" position, plus or minus / inch.
Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but
not operate when the terminal is attached to the
sending unit, indications are of a faulty sending unit
and it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to
respond to the above tests, indications are of possible
loose connections, broken wire, or faulty gauge. The
instrument cluster should be removed for further
tests. See "Instrument Cluster."
3
32
3
32
Testing Fuel
Gauge—
Instrument Cluster
Removed
Place the instrument cluster (Models AC-1, AC-2
and AC-3) or the printed circuit assembly (Model AY-1)
on a padded service bench to protect the assembly.
To prevent a possible error that might result in
burning out the gauges the following test procedures must be closely followed.
CAUTION: A direct connection from a 12 volt battery to the gauges will burn them out.
(1) Connect a jumper wire to the voltage limiter input terminal on the fuel gauge. Connect the other
end of the jumper wire to the positive (+Xpost of a
12 volt test battery.
(2) Connect a jumper wire from the negative (—)
post of the battery to the instrument cluster base
(Models AC-1, AC-2 and AC-3) or to the printed circuit ground strap (Model AY-1).
(3) Connect one lead of Gauge Tester C-3826 to the
fuel gauge "S" terminal.
(4) Connect the remaining lead of the gauge tester to the instrument cluster base (Models AC-1, AC-2
and AC-3) or to the printed circuit ground strap
(Model AY-1).
With the gauge tester in the " L " position the fuel
gauge should show "E" or minus / inch. The mi3
32
nus tolerance provides a small fuel reserve when the
fuel gauge is on the " E " position.
With the gauge tester in the " M " position the fuel
gauge should advance slowly to the Vi position. With
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8-56
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS'
the gauge tester in the " H " position the fuel gauge
should slowly advance to the "F" position plus or
minus / inch. If the fuel gauge does not perform
as above replace the gauge.
3
32
TEMPERATURE INDICATING SYSTEM
Model
AY-1
The operation of the temperature indicating system is identical in operation with the fuel system
with the exception of the method of varying the resistance of the sending unit. In this system the resistance varies in direct relation to the temperature
of the coolant.
Any change in the coolant temperature causes a
like change in the resistor incorporated in the engine
sending unit.
When the engine is cold the resistance of the disc
in the temperature sending unit is high and a low
temperature will be indicated.
As the engine temperature increases the resistance
of the temperature sending unit disc starts to decrease. A resultant increase in the current flow will
occur causing the gauge pointer to indicate the increase in engine temperature.
Models
A C - ? , A C - 2 and AC-3
The temperature indicating system uses two bulbs
on the instrument cluster and a temperature sensing
switch on the engine to indicate the temperature condition of the engine coolant. Inside the switch a bimetal strip makes and breaks contact with the "R"
and "G" terminals of the switch to provide a ground
circuit to either the "Hot" or "Cold" bulb of the
temperature indicator. When the engine coolant is in
the normal operating range of temperatures the bimetal strip does not contact either terminal of the
switch so neither bulb is lit in the normal temperature range. (Fig. 2).
Testing
Temperature
in the
Vehicle
Model
Indicating
System
AY-1
Disconnect the terminal from the temperature sending unit on the engine. Connect one test lead of Tester C-3826 to the terminal and the other test lead to a
good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on
the " L " position and turn the ignition switch to "on."
The temperature gauge should show "C" plus or minus
Vs inch. Thermal gauges are slow in operation. Allow
time for gauge to heat up.
Place the pointer on the tester on the " M " position and the temperature gauge should advance to
the driving range of V2 position of the dial. Place the
pointer of the tester in the " H " position and the gauge
should advance to the " H " position of the dial.
Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but
not operate when the terminal is attached to the sending unit, indications are of a faulty sending unit
and it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to
respond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, defective printed circuit board or faulty gauge. The instrument
cluster should be removed for further tests. See "Instrument Cluster."
Testing Temperature
Gauge—
Instrument Cluster Removed (Fig. 3)
The temperature gauge is tested in the same manner as the fuel gauge with the exception that Tester
Tool C-3826 is connected to the temperature gauge
"S" terminal.
With the gauge tester on " L " position, the temperature gauge should show "C" or cold. With the gauge
tester on " M " position, the temperature gauge should
show V2 of the operating scale of the dial. With the
gauge tester on the " H " position, the temperature
gauge should show " H . " If the gauge does not respond
to the above tests test for an open printed circuit
or replace the temperature gauge.
Models A C - 7 , A C - 2 and A C - 3
To test the temperature indicator turn the ignition
TEMPERATURE I N D I C A T O R
( O N I N S T R U M E N T CLUSTER)
TEMPERATURE
: ,
S"
G A U G E
TO
BATTERY
POSITIVE •
TERMINAL
PRINTED
CIRCUIT
ENGINE COOLANT
I TEMPERATURE
SWITCH
^-GROUND
STRAP
GROUND
'CIRCUIT
Z3-R-
NK697
Fig.
2—Temperature
AC-J,
Indicator
AC-2
and
Circuit—Models
AC-3
TO
PRINTED
CIRCUIT
Fig.
GROUND
STRAP
3—Testing Temperature
Model
64x653
Gauge—
AY-1
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INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
OIL G A U G E
" S " TERMINAL
PRINTED C I R C U I T G R O U N D
T O BATTERY P O S I T I V E ( + ) P O S T
STRAP
STRAP
64x654
When the engine oil pressure is high the resistance
of the sending unit is low allowing a higher current
to flow to the instrument panel gauge. This causes an
indication of high oil pressure on the gauge.
When the engine oil pressure is low the resistance of the sending unit is high allowing a lower current to flow to the instrument panel gauge. This causes
an indication of low oil pressure on the instrument
panel gauge.
OIL PRESSURE W A R N I N G
MODELS A C - l
Fig. 4—Testing
Oil Gauge—Model
AY-1
the "Acc" or left position. Disconnect the wires from
the temperature sensing switch on the engine and
one at a time touch the wires momentarily to ground.
When the wire from the "G" terminal is grounded the
"Cold" (green) bulb of the indicator should light.
When the wire from the "R" terminal is grounded the
"Hot" (red) bulb of the indicator should light. I f one of
the bulbs fails to light the bulb that did not light is
faulty and should be replaced. If both of the bulbs fail
to light indications are of a faulty engine sending
switch, faulty circuitry in the system or possibly both
of the indicator bulbs are faulty. Repair or replace as
necessary.
Oil Pressure
Gauge—Model
AY-1
[Pig. 4)
Disconnect the terminal and wire from the oil pressure sending unit on the engine. Connect one test
lead of Tester Tool C-3826 to the removed terminal
the other test lead to a good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on the " L " position and turn
the ignition switch to "on." The oil pressure gauge
should show " L " plus or minus Vs inch. Thermal
gauges are slow in operation. Allow time for gauge
to heat up. When the tester is in the " L " position
the "Sentry Signal" on the cluster should be illuminated.
Place the pointer on the tester on the " M " position
and the oil pressure gauge should advance to the V2
position of the dial. Place the pointer of the tester
in the " H " position and the gauge should advance to
the " H " position of the dial.
Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but
not operate when the wire and terminal are attached
to the sending unit, it should be replaced. Should the
gauge fail to respond to the above tests indications
are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or
faulty gauge. The instrument cluster should be removed for further tests. See "Instrument Cluster."
Oil
Pressure
Gauge
Sending
Unit
The sending unit, mounted on the engine, operates
on a principle of varying engine oil pressure causing a resistance change in the sending unit.
8-57
f
LAMP-
AC-2 and AC-3
To test the oil pressure warning light, remove the
terminal from the oil pressure sending unit. Connect
one lead of the gauge tester to the terminal and the
other test lead to a good ground.
With the ignition switch in the "on" position
and the gauge tester in the " L " position, the indicator light should not light. With the gauge tester in
the " M " position, the indicator light should show a
dull glow. With the gauge tester in the " H " position,
the indicator light should show full brilliance.
Should the oil pressure warning light fail to respond
to the above tests, indications are of possible loose
connections, broken wire, or burned out lamp.
Low Oil Pressure
Warning
Switch
The operation of the oil pressure warning switch,
mounted on the engine, is dependent on variances in
the engine oil pressure.
When the engine oil pressure is high (normal operating condition of the engine) the switch is held in
the "OFF" or "OPEN" position allowing no current to
flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instrument panel.
When the engine oil pressure is low, the switch is
in the "ON" or "CLOSED" position allowing current
to flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instrument panel. This causes the warning lamp to be
illuminated.
INSTRUMENT C L U S T E R — M O D E L A Y - 1
The instrument cluster is not serviced as an assembly. The cluster contains three separate main groups:
(1) Speedometer.
(2) Printed Circuit Assembly
(3) Clock
When servicing the cluster, it is necessary to remove only the group containing the desired instrument or gauge.
Removal
CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable before servicing the instrument cluster.
(1) Remove the screws that attach the instrument
cluster chrome bezel to the instrument cluster. Remove the bezel.
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8-58
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS'
(2) Remove the clock reset knob and the temperature control level knob.
(3) Carefully remove the lens from the cluster.
(4) Remove the screws that attach the cluster face
plate to the cluster. Remove the face plate.
(5) Remove the desired main group of the cluster
as follows:
Speedometer—Disconnect the speedometer and
odometer reset cables from under the instrument
panel. Remove the four screws that attach the speedometer to the cluster. Remove the speedometer.
Printed Circuit Assembly—Remove the screws that
attach the printed circuit assembly to the instrument
cluster. Pull the assembly forward slightly and disconnect the printed circuit multi-connector. Remove
the assembly for service of the fuel, oil, temperature
or ammeter gauges.
Clock—Remove the screws that attach the clock to
the instrument cluster. Pull the clock forward and
disconnect the feed wire to the clock. Remove the
clock.
Installation
(1) Position the cluster assembly that has been
serviced into the instrument cluster. For the printed
circuit assembly, connect the printed circuit multiconnector; for the clock connect the clock feed wire;
and for the speedometer connect the cable and odometer reset cable. Install the assembly attaching screws.
(2) Position the cluster face plate in the cluster and
install the attaching screws.
(3) Position the cluster lens on the cluster face
plate.
(4) Position the cluster chrome bezel onto the cluster and install the attaching screws. Take care to have
the lens properly positioned before tightening the
bezel attaching screws.
(5) Install the clock rest knob and the temperature
control lever knob.
(6) Connect the battery ground cable.
the retaining bezel and pushing the switch clear of
the panel.
(7) Remove the lower cluster trim bezel.
(8) Remove the upper cluster trim bezel.
(9) Remove the four screws that mount the cluster
to the panel.
(10) Lower the cluster and disconnect the ammeter
(alternator) wires.
(11) Remove the cluster from under the instrument
panel.
Installation
(1) From under the instrument panel, position the
cluster in the lower steering column cover opening and connect the ammeter (alternator) wires.
(2) Position the cluster in the cluster opening and
install the four cluster mounting screws.
(3) Install the cluster upper trim bezel.
(4) Install the cluster lower trim bezel.
(5) Install the ignition switch and accessory switch,
in the panel.
(6) Install the steering column upper filler.
(7) Raise the steering column into position and install the two clamp bolts.
(8) Connect and adjust the gear shift indicator link
and connect the back-up lamp switch wiring, if
equipped with automatic transmission.
(9) Install the steering column lower access panel.
Connect the wiring to the accessory switches.
(10) Connect the battery ground cable.
SWITCHES
Models A C - 1 , A C - 2 and A C - 3
All switches on the instrument panel or in the instrument cluster can be serviced from under the instrument panel by removing the switch knob, mounting nut or bezel and disconnecting the wiring to the
switch.
Model AY-1
Models A C - 1 , A C - 2 and A C - 3
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the steering column lower access panel.
Disconnect the wiring to the accessory switches if so
equipped.
(3) Disconnect the gear shift indicator link from
the steering column and disconnect the back-up
lamp switch wiring on vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission.
(4) Remove the two steering column clamp bolts
and lower the steering column.
(5) Remove the steering column upper filler.
(6) Remove the ignition switch and accessory
switch, if so equipped, from the panel by removing
The instrument panel switches are located in two
groups, one group on each side of the steering column.
On the left of the steering column are located the
headlamp and windshield wiper switches. On the right
of the steering column are located the accessory and
the ignition switches. To service the switches proceed
as follows:
Left
Group
(1) Remove the lower steering column cover plate.
(2) Remove the headlamp switch knob and stem
assembly and the windshield wiper switch knob.
(3) Remove the screw that attaches the right end
of the switch bezel to the instrument panel. This screw
can be reached from inside the steering column opening.
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INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
8-59
(4) Remove the headlamp switch retaining nut using spanner wrench Tool C - 3 8 2 4 .
(5) Lift off the switch bezel.
(6) Remove the headlamp and windshield wiper
stem light seals.
(7) Remove the mounting nut from the desired
switch (headlamp or windshield wiper).
(8) From under the instrument panel pull the switch
down and disconnect the wiring.
(9) Remove the switch from under the instrument
panel.
l i g h t Group
(1) Remove the lower steering column cover plate.
(2) Remove the accessory switch knobs.
(3) Remove the screw that attaches the left end of
the switch bezel to the instrument panel. This screw
can be reached from inside the steering column opening.
(4) Remove the screw in the ignition switch well.
(5) Lift off the switch bezel.
(6) Remove the mounting nut from the desired
switch (accessory or ignition).
(7) From under the instrument panel pull the switch
down and disconnect the wiring.
(8) Remove the switch from under the instrument
panel.
Right Group
(1) Perform steps 1-5 of Switches—Right Group.
(2) Remove the screw that attaches the bulb diffuser to the instrument panel.
(3) Remove the diffuser.
(4) Remove the bulb from the socket.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BULBS
FUSE BLOCK (Fig. 5)
A l l bulbs in the instrument cluster area can be serviced from under the instrument panel. As an aid to
service on Model AY-1 drop the fuse block from the
instrument panel lower reinforcement.
The fuse block is located at the forward edge of
the instrument panel and is retained to the instrument panel lower reinforcement by a self tapping
screw.
In the fuse block are mounted the radio, cigar
lighter, air-conditioner or heater, tail-stop-dome light,
and accessory fuses. The fuse capacity is printed on
the fuse block as an aid to replacement requirements.
SWITCH TITLE L I G H T I N G — M O D E L A Y - 1
The switch title lenses are illuminated by bulbs located next to the switches. The bulbs can be serviced
after removing the switch bezel.
Left
Group
(1) Perform steps 1-5 of Switches—Left Group.
(2) Remove the screw that attaches the bulb diffuser
to the instrument panel.
(3) Remove the diffuser.
(4) Remove the bulb from the socket.
Fig. 5—Fuse.
Block
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
As a safety precaution, circuit breakers are used
for the headlamps and wiper circuits. They insure
that these essential services will continue to function
if an intermittent short circuit occurs. Use only identical type and amperage value circuit breakers as replacements for' service.
TURN S I G N A L SYSTEM
Description
Model AC-3 uses, as standard equipment, fender
mounted turn signal indicators on the front fenders
of the vehicle. The fender mounted indicators are
available as optional equipment, on Models AC-1 and
AC-2. When the fender mounted Indicators are used
the indicators in the Instrument cluster are not used
as the, fender mounted indicators can be seen from
the driver's seat of the vehicle.
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8-60
INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS'
SERVICE F
Model AY-1
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the two screws from the underside of
the steering wheel and remove the horn blowing actuator and steering wheel cover.
(3) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and
install steering wheel puller Tool C-3428 and remove
the steering wheel nut and steering wheel.
(4) Remove the turn signal operating lever.
(5) Remove the steering column lower cover.
(6) Remove the two screws, disconnect the switch
wires at the connection and remove the turn signal
switch and wires.
Installation
(1) Position the turn signal switch on the steering
column and install the attaching screws and wire
connections.
(2) Install the steering column lower cover.
(3) Install the turn signal operating lever.
(4) Install the steering wheel and steering wheel
nut, tighten the nut to 24 foot-pounds. Test the operation of the cancelling lever.
(5) Install the horn blowing actuator, steering wheel
cover and attaching screws.
(6) Connect the battery ground cable.
r
Models A C - 7 , A C - 2 and A C - 3
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Compress and turn the horn button Vk turn
counterclockwise to release the buttom from the retainer.
(3) Disconnect the horn wire at the horn blowing
switch.
(4) Remove the three screws and insulators attaching the horn ring and horn blowing switch to the
steering column. Remove the horn ring and switch.
(5) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and
install the Steering Wheel Puller Tool C-3428 and remove the steering wheel nut and steering wheel.
(6) Remove the screw attaching the turn signal operating lever to the turn signal switch and remove
the lever.
LEFT TURN
AND STOP
LEFT PARK
AND TURN
LEFT
PANEL INDICATORS
RIGHT PARK
AND TURN
RIGHT TURN
AND STOP
, RIGHT
IGNITION SWITCH
F i g . I — T u r n Signal
System
64x420A
Wiring
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INSTRUMENTS—INDICATORS
8-61
Installation
tion the turn signal switch in the steering column
jacket tube and install the attaching screws and connect all wire connections.
(2) Install the turn signal operating lever.
(3) Install the steering wheel and the steering
wheel nut. Tighten to 24 foot-pounds. Test the operation of the cancelling lever.
(4) Install the horn blowing switch, horn ring, insulators and attaching screws. Connect the horn wire.
(5) Install the horn button by compressing and turning 44 turn clockwise to lock the horn button on the
retainer.
(6) Connect the battery ground cable.
(1) Attach the string or wire, that was left in the
steering column jacket tube during removal, to the
turn signal switch wiring and carefully pull the string
or wire down through the column jacket tube until
the directional switch wires can be connected. Posi-
WIRING DIAGRAM
Refer to Figure 1 for the #iring of the turn signal system for Models AC-1, AC-2 and AC-3 and
Model AY-1.
(7) Disconnect the turn signal wiring at the steering column jacket tube below the instrument panel.
NOTE: Attach a piece of string or fine wire to the
turn signal switch wiring before removing the
switch from the steering column. When the switch
is removed leave the string or wire in the steering
column jacket tube as an aid to replacement of the
wiring.
(8) Remove the screws attaching the turn signal
switch to the steering column and remove the switch
from the top of the steering column.
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8-62
WINDSHIELD WIPERS—HORNS—DIAGNOSIS-
PART 7
WINDSHIELD WIPERS—HORNS
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
(a) Relieve binding condition.
WIPER FAILS T O OPERATE (a) Binding linkage.
(b) Faulty instrument panel switch.
WIPER BLADES
NOT
PARKING PROPERLY
Correction
Possible C a u s e
(b) Test switch. See "Wiper Switch/'
( c ) Faulty motor.
(c) Test motor. See "Wiper Motor Bench Testing."
(d) Open o r grounded wiring.
(d) Test wiring for continuity. Repair as necessary.
(a) A r m s e t at incorrect position.
(a) Adjust arm. See "Wiper Arm Adjustment."
(b) Motor park switch timing incorrect.
(b) Time
park
switch. See "Wiper
Motor
Park
Switch Timing."
( c ) B r o k e n link spring. (Variable Speed)
(c) Replace Spring. See "Wiper
(d) Link spring trip not engaging stop on linkage.
(d) Inspect "Wiper Link Assembly."
Link Assembly."
(Variable Speed)
BLADES SLAP WIND-
(a) Improperly adjusted wiper arm.
(a) See "Wiper Arm Adjustment/'
SHIELD M O U L D I N G S
(b) Looseness of the motor crank or other drive
(b) Replace faulty part.
parts.
BLADES CHATTER
(a) Twisted arm holds blade at wrong angle to
wiper
arm.
Do
(b) Wrong type blades used.
(b) Install correct wiper blades.
(c) Foreign substances such as body polish on glass.
(c) Clean the glass.
MOTOR WILL NOT STOP (a) Motor park switch failure in the " c l o s e d " posiW H E N INSTRUMENT
(a) Replace
not
s t r a i g h t e n b e n t or t w i s t e d
glass.
attempt
to
arm.
(a) Repair or replace motor park switch.
tion.
PANEL S W I T C H IS
TURNED " O F F "
MOTOR STOPS IN A N Y
POSITION W H E N
(a) Motor park switch failure in the " o p e n " position.
(a) Repair or replace motor park switch.
IN-
STRUMENT PANEL
SWITCH IS TURNED
"OFF"
HORNS
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
HORNS WILL NOT BLOW (a) Improper adjustment.
(a) See "Adjusting."
(b) Broken or faulty wiring.
(b) See "Testing."
(c) Faulty horn.
(c) See "Testing." Replace horn if necessary.
(d) Faulty relay.
(d) See "Testing." Replace relay if necessary.
HORNS BLOW CONTIN-
(a) Shorted wiring.
(a) See "Testing."
UOUSLY
(b) Horn button sticking.
(b) Disconnect battery ground cable. Release horn
button.
After
correction,
connect
battery
ground cable.
(c) Relay sticking.
(c) Replace relay.
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WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
8-63
WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
parking feature which is accomplished by reversing
the direction of the wiper motor and the use of a parking cam on the motor crank pin. When the wiper
switch is turned "OFF," the motor direction is reversed and at the same time the parking cam rotates
180 degrees, lengthening the drive link slightly to
park the wiper blades in a depressed position. The
drive link shortens when the motor runs in the wipe
direction, Figs. 1 and 2.
Description
The wiper motor is connected to the wiper switch
and from the wiper switch "B" terminal to the
"ACC," accessory, terminal of the ignition switch so
the wiper motor can be actuated only when the ignition switch is turned to the right or left positions.
The wiper circuitry is protected by a circuit breaker
that is built into the wiper switch.
The variable speed wiper system has a depressed
SERVICE
PROCEDURES
WIPER ARM ADJUSTMENT
Variable
Speed
To determine if an adjustment is required, apply a
constant upward force of 50 ounces, parallel to the
windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm (where
the wiper blade is attached to the arm). With the 50
ounce force applied, pull the wiper blade away from
the windshield glass once or twice to prevent glass
friction from affecting upward movement of the wiper
arm and blade. With the force applied, the clearance
between the tip of the wiper blade and the windshield lower moulding should be between A and 2V4
inches on the left side and between 1 and 3 inches on
the right side of the vehicle for Models AC-1, AC-2
and AC-3 and between Va and 2% on the right side
for Model AY-1. If the clearance is not in the specified range, use a suitable tool and reposition the wiper
arm and blade assembly (Fig. 3).
(where the wiper blade is attached to the arm). With
the 25 ounce force applied pull the wiper blade
away from the windshield glass once or twice to prevent glass friction from affecting downward movement of the wiper arm and blade. With this force applied the clearance between the tip of the wiper
blade and the windshield moulding should be between A and 2% inches on the left side and between
1 and 3 inches on the right side of the vehicle. If the
clearance is not in the specified range, use a suitable
tool and reposition the wiper arm and blade assembly (Fig. 3).
X
X
Single Speed—Models
Wiper Motor
Park Switch
Timing
The timing of the motor park switch must be:
(a) Late enough that the wiper arms come to rest
at the extreme lower limit of travel on dry glass.
(b) Early enough that the wiper arms do not rise
appreciably beyond the lower limit of travel on completely wet glass.
AC-1„ and AC-2
To determine if an adjustment is required, apply a
constant downward force of 25 ounces, parallel to
the windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm
MOTOR
NK743
" Fig. 2 — W i p e r
Fig. 1—Wiper
System—Model
AY-1
AC-1,
AC-2
System—Models
and
AC-3
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8-64
WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
Parking
Spring
Lubrication—Variable
Speed
To insure satisfactory life of the parking mechanism use only Led-Plate, Part NO. 2275437, to lubricate the parking spring during service. It is essential to thoroughly coat all rubbing surfaces of the
spring and pin area. Use of any other lubricant
than Led-Plate (such as lubriplate, etc.) will result
in noisy operation, rapid wear of components and premature failure of the parking mechanism.
WIPER MOTOR
Model
AY-1
Removal
fig.
3~Removing
Blade
Wiper
Arm and
Assembly
Adjust the timing of the park switch on the wiper
motor to provide "shut off" at the lowest point of wiper blade travel under both wet and dry glass conditions.
When adjusting the timing of the variable speed
park switch, note that the variable speed motor rotates in reverse at the time the park switch opens.
"Early" and "Late" directions are therefore opposite
to single speed motors.
Wiper
Parking
Variable
Operation
Test—
Speed
(1) Turn the instrument panel switch to ON and allow the wiper system to run through several cycles
of operation.
(2) Very slightly, after the wiper blades reach the
top of the wipe pattern, turn the wiper switch to
OFF to cause the blades to park in a one-half cycle of
wiper motor operation.
If the blades do not park in the desired Vi cycle
but require 1V& cycles to park, the procedure of going through the switching operation must be repeated
as follows:
(a) Turn the switch to the "ON" position and allow
the wiper system to operate for a few cycles.
(b) Turn the switch to the "OFF" position, only this
time allowing the timing of operating the switch to
occur at a position in respect to wiper blade travel
that is slightly later than the first operation. Again,
note cycle requirement to reach park.
Having parked the wiper system in V2 cycle of motor operation, note whether the wiper blades have
traveled well below the normal wipe pattern. If they
have not, replacement of the parking cam, spring and
spring trip is indicated. If they have, but have met
the requirements for proper park position wiper arm
adjustment is required.
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) From under the instrument panel remove the
left spot cooler hose (air-conditioning only).
(3) Remove the right defroster hose.
(4) From under the instrument panel remove the
right instrument panel lower reinforcement to windshield wiper motor mounting bracket pencil brace.
(5) Remove the remote trunk lock switch from inside the glove box. Remove the eight screws that
attach the glove box to the instrument panel and remove the glove box out through the glove box opening, (air-conditioning only).
(6) From under the instrument panel remove the
two nuts that attach the defroster control vacuum
actuator to the mounting bracket and pivot the actuator down out of the way.
(7) Disconnect the wiring leads at the wiper motor.
(8) Disconnect the right and left wiper links at
the wiper pivots. '
(9) Remove the nuts that attach the wiper motor
mounting bracket to the cowl panel.
(10) Remove the wiper motor, motor mounting
bracket and wiper links as an assembly from under
the instrument panel.
Installation
(1) Install the wiper motor, motor mounting bracket and wiper links as an assembly under the instrument panel. Position the motor mounting bracket on
the studs on the cowl panel. Install the motor bracket
mounting nuts.
(2) Connect the right and left wiper links at the
pivot.
(3) Connect the wiring leads at the wiper motor.
(4) Position the defroster heat vacuum actuator on
the actuator mounting bracket and install the mounting nuts.
(5) Install the glove box and the remote trunk lock
switch (air-conditioning only).
(6) From under the instrument panel install the
right instrument panel lower reinforcement to wiper
motor mounting bracket pencil brace.
(7) Install the right defroster hose.
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WINDSHIELD WIPE1 SYSTEM
(8) Install the left spot cooler hose (air-conditioning only).
(9) Connect the battery ground cable.
Models
Removal
AC-2 and AC-3
(1) Use a suitable tool and remove the wiper arm
and blade assemblies (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove the windshield lower moulding.
(3) Remove the cowl grille panel.
(4) Remove the nut that mounts the drive crank to
the motor and remove the drive crank from the motor, disconnect the wiring to the motor.
(5) Remove the three nuts that mount the motor to
the dash panel and remove the motor out through the
cowl grille panel opening.
Installation
(1) Insert the motor in through the cowl grille panel
opening and position the motor on the three studs on
the dash panel. Make certain the rubber gasket, between the motor and the dash panel, is properly positioned.
(2) Install the three nuts that mount the motor to
the dash panel and connect the wiring to the motor.
Make certain the ground strap is screwed to the
switch plate and under one of the mounting nuts.
(3) Position the drive crank on the motor and install the mounting nut.
(4) Install the cowl grille panel.
(5) Install the windshield lower moulding.
(6) Install and adjust the wiper arm and blade assemblies, using a suitable tool.
8-65
(2) Removethe bevel washers andh
(3) Remove the parking cam and spring release.
(4) Remove the coil spring by spreading the ends.
(5) Disassemble the right-hand link in same manner after removing crank arm to lever nut, spacing
washers between the link crank arm and lever.
Installation
(1) Install the spring washer, concave surface toward crank arm. Install the crank pivot coil spring on
the pivot. Install the spring release.
(2) Install the parking cam to index with spring release and engage spring ends, between the release and
parking cam in openings at point of index (Fig. 4).
When assembling to the left link the " L " on the
left crank and on the parking cam should be seen.
The cam marked "R" is installed in the same manner.
NOTE: If the intermediate crank is held so that the
letter " L " is visible install the cam release so that
the letter " L " can be seen from this position. The
opposite side will show three letters "R."
(3) Install the link arm with the stop projection on
the link arm toward the cam assembly. Install the
spring washer, convex surface toward the cam assembly.
(4) Install the retaining bolt and nut (Fig. 5).
(5) Assemble the left link and cam assembly in the
same manner locking in place with a clip.
Models A C - J , A C - 2 and AC-3
To service the drive link or connecting link it is
necessary to remove the wiper arm and blade assemblies, the windshield lower moulding and the cowl
grille panel to provide access to the wiper system.
WIPER LINKS
Model AY-1
Removal
(1) Remove the clip holding the link to the crank
arm.
Removal
(1) With the wiper system in the "park" position
remove the retainer clip from the end of the motor
LINK SPRING
TRIP
INTERMEDIATE
CRANK ARM
INTERMEDIATE
CRANK A R M
RIGHT
LINK
PARKING C A M
(ECCENTRIC)
LINK SPRING
Fig. 4—link
NK1197
NK1196
Spring
Trip
Installed
Fig. 5—Link
Arm
Installed
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8-66
WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
drive crank and pin. For variable speed wipers remove
the cover from the mechanism to allow access to the
retainer clip.
(2) Remove the spring washer and drive link from
the drive crank pin.
(3) Remove the retainer clip from the connecting
link pin on the right pivot.
(4) Remove the nuts that mount the left pivot to
the body of the vehicle.
(5) Remove the links and left pivot out through
the cowl grille panel opening. The connecting link can
be serviced on the bench after the links are removed
from the vehicle.
Installation
Make certain the wiper system is in the "park" position before starting the installation procedures.
(1) With the connecting and drive links assembled
as a unit insert the links in through the cowl grille
panel opening and position the bushing of the connecting link on the pin of the right pivot and install
the retainer clip. Make certain the retainer clip is
completely seated on the pivot pin.
(2) Install the left pivot.
(3) Position the motor end of the drive link on the
drive crank pin of the motor. Make certain the
" 0 " ring, release spring, retainer and cam are in the
proper positions for variable speed wiper systems
(Fig. 2).
(4) Install the cover on the mechanism on variable
speed wiper systems.
(5) Install the cowl grille panel, windshield lower
moulding and install and adjust the wiper arm and
blade assemblies. Adjust as necessary.
Wiper
Motor
Disassembly
(1) Remove the spring retaining clip and washers
on the motor output shaft, noting the sequence
of removal of the washers.
(2) Remove the switch and cover plate.
(3) Remove the gear and shaft assembly.
(4) Remove the end head through bolts and pull
off the end head using care to avoid damaging the
lead wire to the brush holder variable speed motors.
(5) Remove the armature using care to keep the
commutator free of fingerprints and oil.
Wiper
Motor
Inspection
(1) Thoroughly inspect the motor parts for wear,
corrosion or damage.
(2) Clean the armature commutator with 00 or 000
sandpaper or if necessary due to excessive wear replace the windshield wiper motor.
(3) Replace worn or oil soaked brushes.
(4) Inspect gears for worn or broken teeth and replace those showing damage or excessive wear.
(5) Remove the seal, which is pressed into the
housing at the output shaft, while being careful not
to damage the inside diameter of the housing. Press
in a new seal before reassembling the wiper motor.
(6) Replace the gasket under the park switch cover.
Assembly
(1) Insert the armature into the motor assembly.
(2) Install the end head and end head through bolts
using care to avoid damaging the lead wire to the
brush holder on variable speed motors.
(3) Install the gear and shaft assembly.
(4) Install the washers on the motor output shaft,
make certain the washers are installed in the proper
order, and install the spring retaining clip.
(5) Install the switch and cover plate.
WIPER SWITCH
Variable
Speed
The switch contains a rheostat which provides a
means of controlling the amount of current which
flows to the motor. The switch is designed to provide
a circuit to the motor to reverse the current to the
field winding which in turn reverses the direction of
the armature. A circuit breaker, built into the switch,
protects the wiper motor circuitry.
To test the switch, disconnect the wiring to the
switch and remove the switch from the instrument
panel. Using a continuity tester or an ohmeter, test
for continuity, no resistance, between the contact terminals of the switch as shown in the following chart.
For test purposes the "Park" position is when the
switch is in the "Off" position. The "Low" position
is when the switch is just turned "On." The "High"
position is when the switch knob is rotated to the
high or maximum wiper speed position. In the test
chart the reference "Ground" means to attach one
lead of the continuity tester or ohmeter to the case of
the switch. The bench test of the switch does not require the use of a 12 volt battery.
VARIABLE SPEED SWITCH
CONTINUITY CHART
Park
Low
High
Bto B / U .
Bto B / U .
Bto B/U.
B / U t o P.
B / U to A.
B / U to A .
A to F2.
AtoFl.
* A through the
FT to Ground.
F2 to Ground.
rheostat to F l .
P-open.
F2 to Ground.
P-open.
*As the switch knob is rotated the resistance shown
on the ohmeter should vary from a high reading to a
low reading in a smooth rate of change or if a continuity tester is being used the brightness of the test
lamp should vary from bright to dim.
Single
Speed
The switch contains a built-in circuit breaker to
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WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
an assembly. To test the switch, refer to the proper
wiring diagram, disconnect the lead wires and remove
the switch from the instrument panel. Connect a test
lamp between " B " terminal of the switch and the negative battery post. Connect the positive battery terminal to the "P" terminal of the post. Lamp should
remain lighted in either "ON" or "OFF" position.
Failure to light indicates a faulty circuit breaker.
Connect the positive battery to the "R" terminal of
the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is
turned "ON" and go out when turned "OFF."
End
Play
Adjustment
To adjust the armature shaft end play turn the adjustment screw in until it bottoms, then back-off Vs
turn (Fig. 6).
WIPER MOTOR BENCH TESTING
Variable
Speed
(1) Connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor yellow wire and the wiper motor ground strap.
Connect another jumper wire between the battery negative terminal and the wiper motor ground strap. Connect another jumper wire between the wiper motor
red and black wires and the battery positive terminal.
The wiper motor should run continuously in the
wipe direction.
(2) Connect a jumper wire between the wiper motor blue and yellow wires and the battery positive
terminal. Connect another jumper wire between the
wiper motor red wire and the wiper motor ground
strap. The wiper motor should run in reverse and stop
at the park position.
Single
Speed
(1) Connect a jumper wire between the battery
negative terminal and the wiper motor ground strap.
^g^neet^Bethei^u
of the wiper motor and the battery positive terminal.
The motor should run continuously.
(2) Connect a jumper wire between the battery negative post and the wiper motor ground strap. Connect
another jumper wire between the black wire of the
wiper motor and the red wire of the wiper motor.
The wiper motor should "park."
WIPER PIVOT REPLACEMENT
Model A Y - 1
(1) Using a suitable tool, remove the wiper arm
and blade assembly.
(2) Disconnect the link from the pivot.
(3) Remove the pivot and gasket.
(4) Install a new gasket and pivot.
(5) Tighten the retaining stud nuts 7 5 inch-pounds.
(6) Reconnect the link to pivot crank pin and install
washer and retainer clip.
(7) Install the wiper arm.
Models
4
Fig. 6 — E n d Play
Adjustment
A C - J , A C - 2 and A C - 3
To service the wiper pivots it is necessary to remove the wiper arm and blade assemblies, the windshield lower moulding and the cowl grille panel to
provide access to the wiper system.
Right
Pivot
(1) Remove the retainer clip that holds the connecting link to the wiper pivot and remove the link
from the pivot.
(2) Remove the screws that mount the pivot to the
body of the vehicle and remove the pivot out through
the cowl grille panel opening.
(3) Position the new or repaired pivot in the body
opening and install the pivot mounting screws. Tighten the screws to 7 5 inch-pounds.
(4) Position the connecting link on the pin of the
pivot and install the retainer clip. Make certain the
clip is completely seated on the pivot pin.
(5) Install the cowl grille panel, the windshield lower moulding and install and adjust the wiper arm and
blade assemblies.
Left
62 x 3 0 7
8-67
Pivot
(1) Disconnect the drive link at the drive crank pin
of the motor.
(2) Remove the retainer clip that holds the connecting link to the right pivot and remove the link
from the pivot.
(3) Remove the screws that mount the left pivot to
the body of the vehicle and remove the wiper links
and left pivot as an assembly out through the cowl
grille panel opening. The left pivot can then be removed from the links on the service bench.
(4) With the left pivot and wiper links assembled
as a unit, insert the assembly in through the cowl
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8-68
HORNS
grille panel opening and position the left pivot in
the body opening. Install the pivot mounting screws.
Tighten the screws to 75 inch-pounds.
(5) Position the connecting link on the right pivot
pin and install the retainer clip. Make certain the
clip is completely seated on the pivot pin.
(6) Position the drive link on the drive crank pin of
the motor and install the mounting nut.
(7) Install the cowl grille panel, the windshield lower moulding and install and adjust the wiper arm and
blade assemblies.
WIPER BLADE REPLACEMENT
Exposure to heat and road splash tend to harden
the rubber wiper refills. When the refills smear or in
general do not satisfactorily clean the windshield,
they should be replaced.
To replace, depress the release on the top of the
blade assembly and slide out the rubber refill. Slide
the new rubber refill into the blade assembly until it
locks in place. Refer to the Parts List for the correct
rubber blade refill.
HORNS
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Testing
Touch a jumper wire from relay "S" terminal to
ground. If horn blows, difficulty is in the horn button
contact ring, the grounding of the steering column
or in the wire from "S" terminal to the horn button.
If the horn fails to blow, connect a jumper wire from
"B" to " H " terminal. Now if horns operate the relay
is defective. If horns fail to operate difficulty is in
wire to the horns, in the horns, the wire to horn relay "B" terminal or in the grounding of the steering
column.
Adjusting
(1) Disconnect the connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating.
(2) Remove horn and bracket assembly.
(3) With a suitable tool (Fig. 1), turn the tone adjuster counterclockwise until there is no vibration
(sound).
(4) Turn the tone adjuster clockwise, approximately
V* turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow
sound. Do not turn tone adjuster while horn is blowing.
NOTE: Adjustment will only clear up sound and
cannot change horn tone frequency.
(5) Connect a test ammeter between the positive
post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post. Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post
to the horn base. Clean the paint from the horn
bracket where the connection is made. Turn the ad-
63x642
Fig. 1—Adjusting
Horn (Spartan
Horn
Shown)
justing screw to obtain a reading of six amperes
minimum to eight amperes maximum for Sparton
horns and eight amperes minimum to ten amperes
maximum for Prestolite horns at 12.5 volts.
NOTE: Must not exceed eight amperes maximum
for Sparton horns and ten amperes maximum for
Prestolite horns.
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-POWER EQUIPMENT—DIAGNOSIS
8-69
PART 8
POWER EQUIPMENT
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS
Possible Cause
Condition
Correction
ALL D O O R S N O T LOCK- (a) Faulty control switch.
(a) Test switch for continuity. Replace if necessary.
ING
(b) Test wiring for continuity. Repair or replace
OR
UNLOCKING
(b) Faulty wiring.
as necessary.
PROPERLY
INDIVIDUAL D O O R N O T (a) Faulty solenoid.
L O C K I N G OR U N L O C K I N G PROPERLY
(a) Test solenoid for continuity. Replace if necessary.
(b) Faulty wiring.
(b) Test wiring for continuity. Repair or replace as
(c) Improperly adjusted solenoid.
(c) Adjust solenoid to allow sufficient travel of the
necessary.
solenoid lever to operate the door lock.
SIX-WAY POWER SEATS
ENTIRE UNIT INOPERATIVE
MOTOR INOPERATIVE
(a) Broken wire or loose connections in any part of
of motor control circuit.
(a) Short or open circuit between power source,
faulty relay, switch or motor.
(a) Test electrical continuity of the system. Repair
as necessary.
(a) Test the red wire at relay with a test lamp. If
the test lamp does not light, check for continuity in the red feed wire, a faulty circuit
breaker or a poor connection between the circuit breaker a n d alternator (ammeter). If the
test lamp lights, connect the red feed wire with
the red and black or red and green wires from
the motor. If motor runs, relay is faulty.
SEAT INOPERATIVE
(Motor Runs)
(b) Faulty Motor.
(b) Repair or replace motor.
(a) Short or open circuit between the switch and
(a) Jump the wire from the red feed wire to each
affected solenoid.
solenoid terminal on the clutch assembly. Each
solenoid should "Click" as the jumper is connected. If solenoid does not click:
Test the wire in the harness for an open circuit.
Repair. Test for a possible burned-out solenoid.
Replace the solenoid if necessary.
SEAT INOPERATIVE
(a) Stripped or broken gear in the drive unit.
(a) Inspect and replace the drive unit if necessary.
(a) Broken drive cable.
(a) Inspect and replace the parts as necessary.
(Motor Runs and Solenoid
Clicks)
SLAVE UNIT INOPERATIVE (Motor, Solenoids
a n d Drive Unit O.K.)
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8-70
POWER EQUIPMENT—DIAGNOSIS •
SIX-WAY POWER SEATS—(Continued)
Condition
EXCESSIVE FREE PLAY
Correction
Possible C a u s e
(a) Roller out of position.
(a) Repair roller as necessary.
(a) Loose rivet joints.
(a) Disassemble the upper track seat support by
IN THE UNIT (Seat has
a Rocking Motion, Excessive Movement between the Slide and the
Base of the Track
assembly)
SEAT TRACK E X C E S SIVELY L O O S E
removing the cotter keys and pins. Remove the
seat support and tighten all the riveted joints
by peening with a ball peen hammer.
L O O S E FRONT LEVERS
(a) Movement between the two sections comprising
the front lever asembly.
SEAT CHUCK FORE A N D
(a) Loose horizontal
AFT
rack support arm to
(a) Arc weld the front levers to prevent movement
between the two sections.
lower
track base.
(a) Repair as follows:
(1)
Remove the seat track from the vehicle
and arc weld the support arm to the track
base.
(2) Tighten the rack attaching pins by arc
welding.
(b) Loose horizontal rack in slave unit gear train.
(b) Test and replace slave unit if necessary.
FOUR-WAY POWER SEATS
ENTIRE UNIT INOPERA-
(a) Broken or loose wire from the circuit breaker to
TIVE
the control switch.
(a) Test for electrical continuity between the circuit
breaker and the control switch. Repair or
re-
place as necessary.
(b) Test control switch. Repair or replace as neces-
(b) Faulty control switch.
sary.
SEAT OPERATES HORIZONTALLY BUT WILL
(a)
Broken or loose w i r e b e t w e e n the control switch
between the control
replace as necessary.
N O T OPERATE
VERTICALLY
(a) Test wiring for continuity
switch and the vertical drive motor. Repair or
and the vertical drive motor.
(b) Repair or replace the motor.
(b) Faulty motor.
(c) Faulty or mis-aligned coupling between
the
(c) Inspect coupling for wear or misalignment.
Re-
pair or replace as necessary.
motor and the vertical drive mechanism.
(d) Inspect the drive mechanism. Repair or replace
(d) Faulty vertical drive mechanism.
as necessary.
SEAT OPERATES VERTICALLY BUT WILL N O T
(a) Broken or loose wire between the control switch
OPERATE
HORIZONTALLY
(a) Test wiring for continuity between the control
switch and the horizontal drive motor. Repair
and the horizontal drive motor.
or replace as necessary.
(b) Repair or replace the motor.
(b) Faulty motor.
(c) Faulty or mis-aligned coupling between
motor and the horizontal drive mechanism.
(d) Faulty horizontal drive mechanism.
the
(c) Inspect coupling for wear or misalignment. Repair or replace as necessary..
(d) Inspect drive mechanism. Repair or replace-as
necessary.
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POWER EQUIPMENT—DIAGNOSIS
8-71
POWER WINDOWS
N O T E : The window lift motor used on Model AY-1 Is different than the window lift motor used on Models
A C - 1 , A C - 2 and A C - 3 . When bench testing the motors a separate ground wire must be attached to the
Model AY-1 motor. D O N O T connect a separate ground wire to the Model A C - 1 , A C - 2 and A C - 3 motor.
Correction
Possible C a u s e
Condition
A W I N D O W WILL N O T
(a) Faulty switch in the master switch group.
(a) Replace master switch.
OPERATE FROM THE
(b) Break in the wire at the door opening, or at
(b) Test for
the door holding the master switch group.
MASTER S W I T C H , BUT
continuity,
see "Wiring
Diagrams."
Repair wiring. Avoid making a splice in the
flexing sections of the wiring harness.
C A N BE OPERATED
FROM THE INDIVIDUAL
D O O R SWITCH
N O N E O F THE W I N -
(a) Faulty circuit breaker—located behind left cowl
D O W S WILL OPERATE
FROM THE MASTER
(b) Open in the battery feed wire from the circuit
SWITCH OR FROM THE
INDIVIDUAL
(a) Replace circuit breaker.
panel.
(b) Test for continuity and repair as necessary.
breaker to the alternator (ammeter).
DOOR
SWITCH
A WINDOW CANNOT
(a) Test for faulty circuit breaker located left cowl
BE OPERATED FROM
(a) Replace circuit breaker.
panel.
EITHER THE MASTER
(b) Master switch and door switch inoperative.
(b) Test master switch and door switch for contin-
(c) Open in wire between motor and switch.
(c) Test for continuity between the motor a n d the
(d) Jammed gear box.
(d) Test and repair. Inspect motor to g e a r
SWITCH OR THE INDI-
uity.
VIDUAL D O O R SWITCH
switch. Repair wiring as necessary.
box
alignment.
(e) Coupling broken between the motor a n d the
gear box.
(f)
Lift motor burned out.
(e) Replace coupling and test motor and gear box
alignment.
(f) Repair or replace lift motor. Test for sticking
door switch as possible cause of motor failure.
(g) Short in the wiring circuit.
(g) Inspect a n d
test wiring.
See "Wiring
Dia-
grams."
A W I N D O W WILL O P ERATE IN O N E DIRECTION
(a) Faulty circuit between master switch and door
switch.
(b) Lift motor burned out.
(b) Remove window lift motor and test on bench
with battery voltage. See "Wiring Diagrams."
THE MASTER SWITCH
Test for sticking switch.
O R BY THE INDIVIDUAL
DOOR SWITCH
nuity. Check for continuity between the motor
leads and the switch.
ONLY WHEN C O N TROLLED BY EITHER
(a) Test master switch and door switch for conti-
(c) Short in wiring circuit
(c) Inspect a n d test all wiring. See "Wiring Diagrams."
CIRCUIT BREAKER CLICKS (a) Short in the feed wire that feeds the right front
" O N " AND " O F F " C O N TINUOUSLY A N D WIN-
(a) Test wiring, repair or replace as necessary.
a n d rear doors.
(b) Faulty switch.
(b) Replace switch if necessary.
D O W DOES NOT
OPERATE
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8-72
POWER EQUIPMENT
POWER EQUIPMENT
ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS
Description
The electric door lock is operated by a push-pull,
double action solenoid attached by a connecting rod
to the door latch locking lever. By pressing the
single pole double throw switch mounted on the right
and left front door trim panel, a solenoid in each of
the four doors is actuated, moving the latch lock-
ing lever into the lock or unlock position.
All doors may be locked or unlocked either mechanically or electrically. To lock mechanically, push the
front door handle to the forward position and depress
the rear door locking button. To lock electrically, depress the switch to the lock position.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
SOLENOID
Removal
Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect the lock
to solenoid connecting rod at the solenoid. Disconnect wires and remove solenoid.
Installation
Fasten the solenoid to the door and connect the
wires. Tighten the solenoid mounting screws finger
tight. Connect the lock connecting the rod to the
solenoid. Adjust the solenoid by moving the solenoid up or down in the slotted holes, so that the solenoid will push and pull the lever far enough to accomplish locking and unlocking. Install the trim
panel.
tracks,) through flexible cables. The control switch is
on the left side of front seat and is wired through a
relay to a 30 ampere circuit breaker, located above
the left kick panel.
The wire from the bulkhead disconnect supplies
power to the circuit breaker.
Power is supplied to the relay from the circuit
breaker.
Six wires go to the switch. One used for power, two
for motor field current, (which also actuates the
relay for motor armature current) and three wires attach to solenoids controlling the movement of the
front riser, rear riser and horizontal movement.
The right and left tracks are each replaced as an
assembly only. They cannot be adjusted and are not
interchangeable.
SIX-WAY POWER SEATS
Description
The power seat can be moved six ways: forward,
back, up, down and tilt. The horizontal travel is five
inches and horizontal plane of seat track is inclined
eleven degrees. The vertical travel is one inch at front
and two inches at rear. The available tilt is 8 degrees
forward and IV2 degrees rearward from neutral.
Operation
(Fig. 1)
The motor operates a gear drive train which supplies power to the slave units, (located in the seat
-RIGHT SEAT TRACK ASSEMBLY
FLEXIBLE CABLES
A N D TUBES ASSEMBLY
FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTER
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the four mounting stud nuts which hold
the front seat to the adjuster and tilt the complete
seat back assembly forward.
(3) Disconnect the switch control wires.
(4) Remove the front seat and cushion assembly.
(5) Disconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire.
(6) Remove the seat guide attaching stud nuts and
remove the adjuster.
Installation
(1) Install the adjuster and seat guide stud nuts.
(2) Reconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire.
(3) Install the front seat assembly.
(4) Reconnect the control wires to the switch and
tighten the mounting stud nuts securely.
(5) Reconnect the battery ground cable.
FLEXIBLE CABLES
M O T O R A N D DRIVE U N I T ASSEMBLY
LEFT SEAT TRACK ASSEMBLY
63x632 A
T O CONTROL SWITCH
Fig. 1—Power
Seat
Assembly
Removal
(1) Remove the front seat assembly.
(2) Disconnect the red feed wire.
(3) Remove the retainer plate that holds the right
side tubes to the drive assembly.
MyMopar.com
P O W E i EQUIPMENT
F i g . 2 — R e m o v i n g Cobles
from Drive
63x630A
Assembly
Fig. 4—Removing
(4) Remove the left seat guide attaching stud nuts
and remove the guide and the drive assembly (Fig. 2).
CAUTION; Be careful not to bend or damage right
side tubes when sliding tubes out of drive assembly.
(5) Pull the flexible cables from the right side tubes
(Fig. 3).
(6) Remove the bolts that hold the motor and
drive assembly to the left guide bracket.
(7) Remove the drive assembly with tubes from left
slave unit (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the flexible cables from the tubes.
Installation
CAUTION: Seat guides should be in the up and forward position when installing cables. Make sure
both guides are at the same position (in alignment).
(1) Place the three left cable tubes into the left
slave unit (Fig. 5).
Fig. 3 — R e m o v i n g Cables
From Right Slave
Unit
8-73
Drive Assembly
Left Slave
From
Unit
(2) With the shortest tube on the inside and the
longest on the outside, install the flexible cables in the
tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the slave unit.
(3) Position the drive unit on the left side tubes.
Make sure the flexible cables seat in the slot in the
drive unit.
(4) Bolt the drive unit to the guide bracket.
(5) Place the right side flexible cables in the right
side tubes.
(6) Position the left guide and drive assembly on
the right side tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the
drive assembly.
(7) Install the right side tubes retainer plate.
(8) Bolt the left guide assembly to the floor.
(9) Install the seat and cushion assembly.
Fig. 5—Installing
Left Cable Tubes
in Slave
MyMopar.com
8-74
POWER EQUIPMENT
(10) Reconnect the red feed wire and test the operation of the seat.
(5) Remove the prop from the left side of the seat
cushion. Position the seat on the seat adjuster and
install the two mounting stud attaching nuts.
SEAT MOTOR (Fig. 6)
DRIVE UNIT A N D SOLENOID ASSEMBLY
Removal
(1) Remove the two mounting stud attaching nuts
that hold the left side of the front seat to the seat adjuster.
(2) Prop-up the left side of the seat cushion approximately six inches.
(3) Disconnect the control switch wires from the
relay on the motor.
(4) Remove the two nuts that attach the motor to
the drive unit.
(5) Remove the motor and rubber coupling from the
drive unit.
(6) Disconnect the motor wires from the relay.
(7) Remove the relay from the motor.
Installation
(1) Position the relay on the motor and install the
attaching screw.
(2) Connect the motor wires to the relay.
(3) Install the motor and rubber coupling to the
drive unit. Install the two attaching nuts.
(4) Connect the control switch wires to the motor
relay.
Disassembly
(1) Remove the drive unit from the seat assembly.
Refer to "Removal of Flexible Cables" operations
1-4.
(2) Remove the two screws holding the plate and
solenoids to the drive unit (Fig. 6).
(3) Remove the plate and solenoid assembly. Be
careful not to lose the three springs under the solenoid.
(4) To remove the solenoid coils, bend back on the
tabs of the solenoid cover. Unsolder the coil ground
wire at the cover tab and remove the coil cover from
the coil.
(5) Remove the screws holding the cover on the
drive unit.
(6) Remove the cover and lift out the clutch lever and shaft.
Assembly
(1) Install the clutch lever and shaft. Make sure the
lever is properly seated on the collar.
(2) Install the cover and screws.
F i g . 6 — S o l e n o i d and Coil (Disassembled
View)
MyMopar.com
P O W E I EQUIPMENT
8-75
(6) T u ^ ^
the solenoids over the springs.
(7) Fasten the solenoids to the drive unit.
(8) Install the drive unit. Refer to "Installation of
Flexible Cables/' steps 6 through 9.
SLAVE UNIT
Removal
F i g . 7 — R e m o v i n g the Left Slave
(1) Remove the drive unit and the cables. Refer
to "Removal of Flexible Cables," operations 1-4. The
seat guide should be in the up and forward position.
(2) Remove the long clevis pin from the front of
the guide (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove the front rack clevis pin.
(4) To facilitate the removal of the slave unit, remove the slave unit cap. Be careful not to lose the
Unit
(3) Install the coil in the coil cover with the coil
ground wire next to one of the cover tabs.
(4) Position the cover tabs in the slots on the coil
plate.
(5) Bend over the tabs and resolder the coil ground
wire to the tab and plate.
springs under the cap. The springs are between the
racks and the slave cap.
(5) Remove the nuts holding the slave unit to the
guide.
(6) Remove the slave unit.
CIRCUITS
CIR.
F2
F5
F6
F7
F8
F9
F10
Fll
F12
F13
MOTOR RELAY
(INSULATOR VIEWED
FROM CABLE END)
G A . COLOR
12 RED
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
16
16
RED
YELLOW
DARK BLUE
BROWN
DARK GREEN
BLACK
RED
GREEN
BLACK
SEAT ADJUSTER
MOTOR
CLUTCH SOLENOID
ASSEMBLY
\>
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J
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) °
V
S.J
-HORIZONTAL
RISER
j
REAR RISER
CIRCUIT BREAKER
SEE INSTRUMENT
PANEL W I R I N G
TT:
77\
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T £
NK-319
F i g . 8—Six-Way
Power
Seat
Wiring
MyMopar.com
8-76
POWER EQUIPMENT
(6) Install the front guide clevis pin.
(7) Install the cables in their slots and try operation
of guide.
Install the drive unit and cables. Refer to "Installation of Flexible Cables" steps 6 through 9.
Installation
(1) Position the slave unit over the studs on the
guide base.
(2) Position the racks in the slave unit so they
will be in the up and forward position.
(3) Fasten the racks to the guide assembly.
(4) Position the springs on the racks and install
the slave unit cap.
(5) Install the slave unit mounting nuts.
FOUR-WAY
POWER SEAT WIRING
Refer to Figure 8 for the wiring of the power seat
assembly.
POWER
the bottom edge of the left side of the driver's seat.
Power is supplied to the control switch from the 30
ampere circuit breaker mounted behind the left kick
panel.
Description
The seat uses two electric motors (Fig. 1) to produce a front-back travel of 5 inches and an up-down
travel of IV2 inches. The control switch is located on
SERVICE
PROCEDURES
attaching the seat assembly to the seat track at the
front of the seat track rails.
(3) Lift the seat assembly up off of the rear studs
on the seat track rails and remove the seat and cushion assembly.
SEAT A N D CUSHION ASSEMBLY
Removal
(1) Remove the two nuts attaching the seat assembly to the seat track at the rear of the seat track rails.
(2) Operate the seat to the extreme forward position to allow access to the two Phillips head screws
CLEARANCE HOLE FOR
SEATS
Installation
(1) With the seat track in the extreme forward
<J
SEAT CUSHION M O U N T I N G
63 x 903 A
Fig. I — S e a t Track and Rails
Assembly
MyMopar.com
POWER EQUIPMENT
position, place the seat and cushionassembly on the
seat track making certain the studs at the rear of
the seat track protrude through the clearance holes
at the rear of the seat assembly.
(2) Install the two Phillips head screws that attach
the seat and cushion assembly to the seat track at the
front of the seat track and rails assembly.
(3) Install the two nuts that mount the seat assembly to the seat track at the rear of the seat rack.
Tighten the nuts securely.
SEAT TRACK AND RAILS ASSEMBLY
Removal
8-77
protrude t h j ^ g K the clears
(2) From underneath the vehicle install the four
nuts that attach the seat track and rails assembly to
the floor pan. Tighten the nuts securely.
(3) Install the seat and cushion assembly.
ELECTRIC DRIVE MOTORS
Service of the drive motors does not require removal of the seat and cushion assembly. Service procedures for both the vertical and horizontal drive motors are identical. Refer to Fig. 2 for Model AY-1 and
Fig. 3 for Models AC-1, AC-2 and AC-3 for complete
electrical circuit.
(1) Remove the seat and cushion assembly.
(2) From underneath the vehicle, remove the four
nuts attaching the seat track mounting studs to the
floor pan of the vehicle.
(3) Disconnect the wiring terminals from the lead
wires of the two electric motors.
(4) Lift the seat track and rails assembly up from
the floor pan and remove from the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect the wiring terminals at the motor
lead wires.
(2) Remove the two nuts attaching the motor to the
gear housing.
(3) Pull the motor out of the coupling between
the motor and the gear housing and remove the motor.
Installation
Installation
(1) Position the seat track and rails assembly in
the vehicle making certain the four mounting studs
(1) Position the motor on the coupling on the gear
housing making certain the studs on the motor pro-
Removal
G R O U N D TO FLOOR PLAN
CIRCUITS
TO SIDE C O W L
CIRCUIT BREAKER
CIR.
G A . COLOR
F2
12
RED
F2A
12
RED
F2B
12
RED
F2C
12
RED
F2D
14
RED
F3
14
BLACK
F3A
14
BLACK
F4
14
DARK GREEN
F4A
14
DARK GREEN
F15
14
BROWN
F16
14
DARK BLUE
F17
14
BROWN
F17A
14
BROWN
F17B
14
BROWN
RIGHT SEAT ADJUSTER
SWITCH (REAR VIEW)
NK-320
Fig. 2 — F o u r - W a y Power Seaf
Model
AY-1
Wiring—
MyMopar.com
8-78
POWER EQUIPMENT
trude through the clearance holes in the gear housing.
(2) Install the two nuts that attach the motor to the
gear housing. Tighten the nuts securely.
(3) Connect the wiring terminals to the lead wires
on the motor. Make certain the ground lead from the
motor (brown wire) has a good electrical connection.
CONTROL SWITCH
The control switch is retained to the seat assembly
lower side panel by a spring clip. Inserting a screwdriver on each side of the switch will release the
spring clip and allow removal of the switch.
There are two terminals connected to the control
switch. A two wire terminal and a three wire terminal.
The circuits of the five wires are as follows:
Red Wire—12 volt feed from the 30 ampere circuit
breaker behind the left kick panel.
Dark Green Wire—"down" feed to the vertical
drive motor.
Black Wire—"up" feed to the vertical drive motor.
Dark Green Wire—"forward" feed to the horizontal drive motor.
Black Wire—"back" feed to the horizontal drive
motor.
Since the drive motors are interchangeable, a duplication of wire colors occurs. The three wire terminal to the control switch (Dark Green, Black, Red)
contains the feed wires for the vertical drive motor.
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The two wire terminal to the control switch (Dark
Green, Black) contains the feed wires for the horizontal drive motor (Figs. 2 and 3).
COUPLING—MOTOR TO GEAR HOUSING
(Fig, 1)
The coupling transmits the power from the drive
motor to the gear housing. A coupling is used on both
the horizontal and vertical drive mechanisms.
Removal of the motor allows the coupling to be
serviced by pulling the coupling off the end of the
drive shaft of the gear housing.
Service procedures are the same for the coupling
on both the horizontal and vertical drive mechanisms.
HORIZONTAL DRIVE MECHANISM
Removaf
(1) Remove the seat and cushion assembly.
(2) Remove the two " E " clips from the track bracket pivot pin at the rearward end of the horizontal
worm gear.
(3) Remove the pivot pin.
(4) Remove the two " E " clips from the track bracket pivot pin at the gear housing end of the horizontal
worm gear.
(5) Remove the pivot pin.
(6) Disconnect the wiring terminals at the motor
CIRCUIT BREAKER
GROUND T O - ^ "
FLOOR PAN
—USE WITH SINGLE LEFT
ELECTRIC SEAT ADJUSTER ONLY
0
A
RIGHT FOUR WAY
SEAT ADJUSTER SWITCH
(REAR VIEW)
L
F2D
CIRCUITS GAUGE
14
COLOR
DARK GREEN
DARK GREEN
BLACK WITH TRACER
14
DARK GREEN WITH TRACER
CIRCUITS GAUGE
COLOR
CIRCUITS GAUGE
COLOR
CIRCUITS GAUGE
F2
F2A
RED
F2D
RED
F4
14
12
RED
F2E
RED
F4A
14
F2B
12
RED
F3
12
12
14
BLACK
F15
6 3 x 9 0 4 F2C
12
RED
F3A
14
BLACK
F16
12
COLOR
F17
F17A
14
14
BROWN
F17B
14
BROWN
F17C
14
BROWN
BROWN
MALE FEMALE MALE FEMALE!
Fig. 3—Four-Way Power Seaf
Wiring—Models
A C - I , AC-2 and AC-3'
MyMopar.com
POWER EQUIPMENT
lead wire connectors.
(7) Remove the motor from the gear housing. The
drive mechanism can then be removed.
Installation
(1) Position the horizontal drive mechanism and
gear housing assembly into the track bracket.
(2) Install the pivot pins and the two "E" clips at
both ends of the drive mechanism.
(3) Install the motor on the gear housing.
(4) Connect the wiring terminals to the motor lead
wire connectors.
(5) Install the seat and cushion assembly.
VERTICAL DRIVE MECHANISM
Removal
(1) Remove the seat and cushion assembly.
(2) Remove the two nuts at the gear housing end of
the vertical worm gear.
(3) Remove the two "E" clips from the track bracket pivot pin at the rearward end of the vertical worm
gear.
(4) Remove the pivot pin.
(5) Disconnect the wiring terminals at the motor
lead wire connectors.
(6) Remove the motor from the gear housing and
remove the motor. The drive mechanism can then be
removed.
Installation
(1) Position the vertical drive mechanism and gear
housing assembly into the track bracket.
(2) Install the retaining nuts at the gear housing
end of the drive mechanism and the pivot pin and
the two "E" clips at the rearward end of the drive
mechanism.
(3) Install the motor on the gear housing.
(4) Connect the wiring terminals to the motor lead
wire connectors.
(5) Install the seat and cushion assembly.
POWER WINDOWS
Description
The power windows can be controlled from the master switch, on the left front door, or by the individual
switches on the other doors of the vehicle.
The window lift circuitry is protected by a circuit
breaker mounted behind the left cowl panel.
8-79
(3) Drop the motor dowiToff the gear box assembly
(4) Ground the motor through bolt to the body inner panel.
(5) Test the operation of the motor using the window lift switch. If the motor is faulty replace the motor. Do not attempt any internal service on the motor.
(6) Disconnect the lead wires to the motor and remove the motor.
Installation
(1) Position the motor on the gear box assembly and
install the two mounting nuts.
(2) Connect the wiring to the motor.
(3) Test operation of the motor using the window
lift switch.
(4) Install the trim panel and garnish moulding.
W I N D O W LIFT A N D / O R MOTOR
Models A C - l . A C - 2 and A C - 3
f
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Remove the trim panel hardware and the trim
panel. For rear quarter trim panel, remove the rear
seat and seat back.
(3) Disconnect the wiring to the window left switch.
(4) Remove the clips from the regulator pins holding the lower glass channel.
(5) Raise the glass manually and prop the glass in
the "up" position.
(6) Remove the regulator attaching screws, disconnect the pivot arm from the guide on the inner panel
and remove the motor and regulator out through
the opening in the door inner panel.
(7) Remove the two nuts from the lift motor attaching studs and remove the motor from the gear box
assembly.
(8) Bench test the motor using a 12 volt test battery. Connect the leads from the battery to the terminals of the motor. With the leads connected positive to
positive and negative to negative, the motor should
run in one direction. By reversing the leads from the
test battery, positive to negative the motor should run
in the other direction. If the motor does not operate
properly, replace the motor. Do not connect a ground
wire to the case of the motor.
(9) To replace the gearbox, remove the quarter-balance spring before removing the gear box. The gear
box is serviced as an assembly only.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Installation
M O T O R — M O D E L AY-1
Removal
(1) Remove the garnish moulding and trim panel.
(2) Remove the two nuts that attach the motor to
the gearbox assembly.
(1) Assemble the motor to the window left regulator and install the mounting nuts.
(2) Place the motor and regulator assembly through
the inner panel opening and insert the pivot arm into
the guide on the inner panel.
MyMopar.com
8-80
P O W E i EQUIPMENT'
(3) Install the regulator attaching screws finger
tight. Do not tighten these screws at this time.
(4) Remove the glass prop and lower the glass inserting the control arms onto the glass channel. Place
a leather washer on each side of the channel and secure in place with a retaining clip.
(5) Connect the wires to the lift motor and connect
the battery negative cable.
(6) Operate the window several times, then stop the
glass halfway.
(7) If the window operation was satisfactory, tighten the regulator attaching screws securely and insert
the glass alignment.
(8) Connect a test ammeter into the electrical circuit and operate the window. The ammeter reading
should be constant without fluctuation at approximately 5 to 10 amperes. A fluctuating ammeter indicates
there is a bind in the glass travel or in the linkage.
(9) Adjust the down stop so that the top of the window will be flush with the top of the trim panel.
(10) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(11) Install the water shield, repair any damaged
areas to make a complete seal.
(12) Install the trim panel, connect the wires to the
window lift switch and install the switch.
(13) Install the trim panel hardware.
(14) Connect battery ground cable.
(4) Install the regulator pins into the window glass
frame and install the retaining clips.
(5) Connect the wiring to the motor.
(6) Install the trim panel and garnish moulding.
ELECTRIC DECK LID LOCK—
MODEL AY-1
Description
The electric deck lid lock allows unlocking of the
rear deck lid from inside the passenger compartment
of the vehicle. The system consists of a push-button
switch in the glove compartment, a solenoid mounted
on the underside of the deck lid and the push-button
switch from the 10 ampere circuit breaker behind the
left kick panel. The deck lid is locked automatically
when the lid is closed securely.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Operation
To unlock the deck lid open the glove compartment
and push "in" on the switch located on the left side of
the glove box. When the switch is pushed " i n " voltage is fed through the switch to the solenoid which
releases the deck lid locking mechanism.
Tests
W I N D O W LIFT—MODEL A Y 1
Removal
(1) Remove the trim panel and garnish moulding.
(2) Remove the window glass retaining clips. Push
the regulator arm pins out of the window glass frame.
(3) Push the glass and frame assembly to the "UP"
position and prop the glass securely.
(4) Remove the regulator attaching bolts. The bottom bolt can be removed using a socket and extension.
(5) Remove the regulator pivot arms from the regulator channels.
(6) Disconnect the wiring to the motor.
(7) Remove the regulator and motor as an assembly out through the access opening in the inner panel.
(8) The motor can then be serviced on the bench.
If the desk lid fails to unlock when the switch is
pushed " i n " test for good wire connections at the
switch and the circuit breaker. If the wire connections
are good, test the switch for electrical continuity. If
the switch is good, test for "open" or "grounded"
wires in the system. If the wiring is good, test for a
faulty solenoid. If the solenoid is faulty the deck lid
can be opened manually by using the luggage compartment key. Repair or replace the faulty component
as necessary. Refer to Figure 1 for wiring of the system.
<9l
SOLENOID ( O N
REAR DECK LID
Installation
(1) Install the motor and regulator as an assembly
in through the access opening in the inner panel
and install the three regulator mounting bolts.
(2) Install the regulator pivot arms into the channels.
(3) Remove the prop that held the window glass and
frame in the "UP" position and lower the assembly
down until the regulator pins are in line with the
openings in the window glass frame.
10 A M P .
CIRCUIT BREAKER
X T
64x639
PUSH B U T T O N S W I T C H
(IN G L O V E C O M P A R T M E N T )
Fig. I — E l e c t r i c Deck Lid Lock
Wiring
MyMopar.com
ELECTRICAL—WIRING DIAGRAMS
8-81
PART 9
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Figures 1 through 12 shows the various wiring diagrams for the Imperial and the Chrysler Models.
MyMopar.com
8-82
ELECTRICAL—WIRING DIAGRAMS-
-C25-C7-C8—
TO SPOTLIGHT hRADIO
L_X12-
TO REVERBERATOR f
REAR WN
I DOW
DEFOGGER SWITCH f. CIOAIR CONDITIONING * - C 1 A AND HEATER
WINDSHIELD WP
I ER
SWITCH SINGLE SPEED
(WITH BACK-UP LAMPS)
F i g . f — I n s t r u m e n t Panel
Wirin —Models
g
AC-1,
AC-2,
AC-3
MyMopar.com
ELECTRICAL—-WIRING D I A G R A M S
-C25-
-C25-
LOW
-C7—C8-
ACCESSORY FEED
-Q2A
.BATTERY FEED
DEF
-C5
HEAT |
HIGH
MEDIUM
HEAT
— C 4 — |
HEATER
VACUUM
SWITCH
-E2G-,
Mk
-CIA-
MIA
X24
ft18
D4—
D3
-D3-
RADIO
I
-M3-
F9H
-E2G-
=3U4
r b b »—
"• R•2 L_J
— B2C
1GN2—
•S2—
-Q2-
RIGHT FRONT
DOOR
AUTO
SWITCH
TO
CONSOLE
CW I R I N G
M I B - ^ V
G2A-,
!
IGN
BATT
~-M2B-<^©
G2
_J
E2E-
•D2
T"
Q2A
V / Q 2
-Dl
-+G7
-D6--D5-H3--G6
BIB
-R6A-
AlL D T E ,MPERATURE
COLD
INDICATOR L A M P , J ^
L8J
3
<
BATTERY
CI
-C5-%"
HEATER
BLOWER
SWITCH
CIR
Al
A1A
B1
B1A
BIB
B1C
BID
B2
B2A
B2B
B2C
CI
CIA
C2
C4
C4A
C5
C5A
C5B
C6
C6A
C7
C8
C9
CIO
•E2Bc n
•E2D—
.
HEATER
CI 2
VACUUM
C20
SWITCH
C22
STARTER
LIGHTING
C23
AND
C23A
IGNITION
C25
SWITCH
Dl
TURN S I G N A L D2
FLASHER
D2A
D2B
D4A-STOP LAMPD3
D8A—LEFT REARD4
D4A
D6A-LEFT F R O N T D4B
D2A
D5
D5A
D5B
D6
D6A
D6B
D7
D7A
D7B
D8 •
D8A
D8B
D9
D10
El
E2
E2A
E2B
E2C
E2D
E2E
:2G
E4
E5
INST
-E5-
E5A
HEADLAMP SWITCH
E5B
I G N I T I O N SWITCH
LIGHTING
ESC
E5D
-G2A-B2 —
CI RCUITS
CIRCUITS
GA
CIR
COLOR
GA
COLOR
12 RED
Gl
18 BLACK
G2
18 VIOLET
16 BLACK
G2A
18 VIOLET
18 WHITE
G4
18 WHITE
18 DARK BLUE
G5
18
18 WHITE
DARK BLUE
G6
18 G R A Y
18 WHITE
18
DARK GREEN
G7
18 WHITE
20
BLACK
HI
18 VIOLET
H3
18 BLACK
18 VIOLET
18 VIOLET
W I T H TRACER
H3A
18
BLACK
18 VIOLET
14 BLACK
H3B
BLACK
18
12
W I T H TRACER J l
RED
16 DARK BLUE
16 LIGHT GREEN J2
14 B R O W N
J3
18 LIGHT BLUE
16 BLACK
16 B R O W N
LI
W I T H TRACER
16 B R O W N
16 LIGHT GREEN
16 DARK GREEN L2
16 RED
16 DARK GREEN L3
16 BLACK
16 DARK GREEN L4
18
16 LIGHT GREEN L5
RED
18 YELLOW
16 LIGHT GREEN L6
16 T A N
W I T H TRACER
16 DARK GREEN L7
18 BLACK
18
16 T A N
L8
PINK
18 PINK
18 LIGHT GREEN M l
MIA
18
PINK
18 BLACK
Ml B
16 PINK
18 WHITE
M2
16 B R O W N
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
16 DARK GREEN M 2 A
18 YELLOW
16 LIGHT GREEN M2B
16 RED
16 LIGHT GREEN M 3
M3A
18
PINK
16 VIOLET
M3B
18
BLACK
16
PINK
M3C
RED
16
PINK
18
M3D
18
PINK
18
RED
M4
18 RED
18 YELLOW
M4A
18 YELLOW
18
PINK
M5
18 WHITE
18 PINK
P2
18 LIGHT BLUE
18 WHITE
12 RED
18 WHITE
Q1
12 BLACK
18 T A N
Q2
Q2A
12 BLACK
18 T A N
Q3
12 RED
18 T A N
18 LIGHT GREEN
W I T H TRACER
12 BLACK
18 LIGHT GREEN R6
12 BLACK
18 LIGHT GREEN R6A
S2
18 B R O W N
18 YELLOW
Tl
.12
RED
18 B R O W N
T2
12
BROWN
18 B R O W N
18 DARK GREEN T3
12 YELLOW
18 DARK GREEN V I
16 PINK
18 DARK GREEN V 3
16 BLACK
W I T H TRACER
18 T A N
18 LIGHT GREEN V 4
16 RED
V5
18 T A N
16 YELLOW
V6
18 O R A N G E
16 DARK BLUE
V10
18 T A N
18 O R A N G E
18 O R A N G E
W I T H TRACER
XI
18 O R A N G E
16 RED
XIV
18 O R A N G E
18 BLACK
X12
18 RED
18 O R A N G E
X13
18 B R O W N
18 O R A N G E
X
I
4
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 GRAY
W I T H TRACER X21
X24
16 RED
18 O R A N G E
X25
16 RED
W I T H TRACER
X 2 5 A 16 RED
18 O R A N G E
W I T H TRACER X25B 16 RED
X26
16 LIGHT BLUE
18 O R A N G E
16 BLACK
W I T H TRACER X27
18 O R A N G E
W I T H TRACER
18 O R A N G E
W I T H TRACER
LIGHTING
-X27
-X25I
-L5—
— L6-
8-83
1
"XT 6
RED
CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING
SPLICE
A U T O PILOT
CONTROL
NK869
Fig
I — I n s t r u m e n t Panel
Wiring—Models
AC-1,
AC-2
and
AC-3
MyMopar.com
8-84
ELECTRICAL—-WIRING
DIAGRAMS
SI 6 BROWN
_C4-C5-
TO REVERBERATOR
-XI2
N
I STRUMENT FEED
DOME, STOP
AND TAIL
E2L
/CLOCK
-Q3- BATTERY FEED
ACCESSORY FEED r
Q2A
IGNITION FEED
RADIO
~?8 RED
218 ORANGE
CIGAR
LIGHTER
-©
•CIGAR-LIGHTERN
I STRUMENT LAMPS"
a
HEATER
L
- ^ ^ M l
r—CI —
REAR
-C10-
T O REAR
B
O
DEFOGGER
DEFOGGER
WIRING ,
D Y
D3
C I
REAR D E F O G G E R S W I T C H
TO POWER A N T E N N A k ^
,
BODY W I R I N G
| S s J I
F
•—
0
X
1
3
X1T|
X14-
A U T O PILOT
-X27-X26-
X25A
5A
TO AUTO PILOT
DRIVE MECHANISM
I
'
\
-X25A-
DASH PANEL-.
J2B-6-J2
^ 3 X26
TURN SIGNAL
FLASHER
RIGHT FRONT
^ H O R N
WEIGHT REAR
BULKHEAD
DISCONNECT
LEFT TURN
SIGNAL
RIGHf TURN
SIGNAL
-D7-
G6 r<32D4A-
r~
L5
J
D7A
X25—
X26—
-VI0-
ACCESSORY CIRCUIT BREAKER
\-v
M-Q2A
^—Q2-
Dl
-STOP LAMP
• LEFT REAR
, I rr-LEFT FRONT
TUFRLN
SR
IGNAL
md
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ASHE
rPLH>-RIGHT FRONT
ill
HORN
-RIGHT REARL
A
R6A
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH'
HORN SWITCH H3BTURN SIGNAL SWITCH JUMPER WIRING (TILT WHEEL)
Fig. 2 — I n s t r u m e n t Panel
Wiring—Models
AY-1
MyMopar.com
-ELECTRICAL—WIRING DIAGRAMS
CIR
Al
Al A
Al B
Bl
B2
CI
-C4-C5-
FEED
DOWN
BATTERY
MAP LAMP
ASH RECEIVER
_M3"
M1B
J
IGN
XI 3
DOWNT^UP
2
INSTRUMENT TITLE
^ _ LIGHTING
/
L
BATTERY
-XIT
I
-X14
CfcMZJ
J
-E2L- E2-
C4
C4A
C4B
C4C
C4D
C5
C5A
HEATER VACUUM
C5B
SWITCH
C5C
WINDOW LIFT WIRING
(RIGHT AUTOMATIC DOOR C5D
CONNECTOR),
CIO
Cll
HEATER VACUUM
C12
SWITCH LIGHTING
C20
C22
C23
CLOCK AND
C23A
SPEEDOMETER Dl
CLUSTER LIGHTING
LAMP D2
D2A
D2B
D3
D4
D4A
_B_
D4B
INSTRUMENT_LAMP
D5
D5A
D5B
D6
D6A
FUEL GAUGE
D6B
I
D7
D7A
D7B
D8
HIGHBEAM
D8A
D8B
D9
• Al
>
D10
TEMPERATURE El
E2
l-O
GAUGE
E2A
E2B
E2C
, N S T R U M E N T
E2D
-cD
E2E
LAMP |
E2F
E2G
E2H
E2J
E2K
I
PRINTED CIRCUIT
E2L
E2M
SPEEDOMETER
E2N
LAMPS
E2P
E2R
E2S
-G8A
E2T
E2V
Gl
G2
G4
G4A
G6
ACCESSORY
G7
CIRCUIT BREAKER
0~I
INSTRUMENT TITLE LIGHTING
E2TV\
E 2 R
_
SHIFT QUDRANT LAMP
1
X26
A U T O PILOT
C O N rROL
X27A
X25
X25C-
X26
LOW FUEL
f p ] SIGNAL RELAY
25B
INDICATOR
TANK
-D8
-Q2-
INSTRUMENT TITLE LIGHTING
E2V
-R6A-0
-AIA-O
AMMETER
SENTRY
SIGNAL
LAMP
INSTRUMENT
LAMP
I
-R6A
-M2B-M2A-
C2
C2A
LOW
—MIB-^CD
R
. - M 2 E - / MAP LAMP
BEZEL
L* = 18 BROWN
318 BLACK
8 YELLOW
I
-M2A-FZJ
_
M 2
_JJTO
TO AMMETER
WINDOW LIFT WIRING
W25-
G7A
G8
G8A
TOP LIFT
CIRCUITS
GA
COLOR
CIR
12 RED
H3
12 RED
12 RED
H3A
18 WHITE
H3B
18 VIOLET
Jl
14 BLACK WITH J2
TRACER
J2A
16 LIGHT GREEN J2B
18 LIGHT BLUE J3
16 BROWN
LI
16 BROWN
16 BROWN
L2
16 BROWN
L3
16 BROWN
L4
DARK
GREEN
16
L5
16 BLACK
L6
16 DARK GREEN
16 DARK GREEN L7
16 BLACK
L8
18 LIGHT GREEN Ml
18 BLACK
MIA
18 WHITEMl B
14 BROWN
M2
14 DARK GREEN M2A
14 LIGHT GREEN M2B
14 LIGHT GREEN M2C
12 BLACK
M2D
18 RED
M2E
18 RED
M3
18 WHITE
Q2
18 PINK
Q2A
18 WHITE
Q3
18 WHITE
18 WHITE
R6
18 TAN
R6A
18 TAN
S2
18 TAN
VI
18 LIGHT GREEN V3
18 LIGHT GREEN
18 LIGHT GREEN V3A
18 BROWN
V4
18 BROWN
V4A
18 BROWN
V5
18 DARK GREEN V5A
18 DARK GREEN V6
18 DARK GREEN V6A
18 TAN
VI0
18 LIGHT GREEN
18 TAN
W5A
18 ORANGE
W15
18 ORANGE
W25
18 ORANGE
XI
18 ORANGE
X1A
18 ORANGE
XI1
18 ORANGE
X12
18 ORANGE
XI 3
ORANGE
18
X14
18 ORANGE
X21
18 ORANGE
X24
18 ORANGE
X25
18 ORANGE
X25A
18 ORANGE
X25B
18 ORANGE
X25C
18 ORANGE
X26
18 ORANGE
X27
18 ORANGE
X27A
18 ORANGE
18 ORANGE
18 BLACK
18 VIOLET
18 DARK BLUE
18 DARK BLUE
18 GRAY
18 GRAY WITH
TRACER
18 GRAY WITH
TRACER
18 DARK BLUE
WITH TRACER
18 DARK BLUE
WITH TRACER
8-85
CIRCUITS
COLOR
GA
18 BLACK WITH
TRACER
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
12 RED
12 DARK BLUE
12 DARK BLUE
12 DARK BLUE
12 BROWN
12 BLACK WITH
TRACER
16 LIGHT GREEN
16 RED
16 BLACK
18 RED
18 YELLOW
WITH TRACER
18 BLACK
18 PINK
18 PINK
18 PINK
18 PINK
18 YELLOW
18 BROWN
18 BROWN
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 PINK
12 BLACK
12 BLACK
12 RED WITH
TRACER
12 BLACK
12 BLACK
12 YELLOW
12 PINK
18 BLACK WITH
TRACER
16 BLACK
18 RED
16 RED
18 YELLOW
16 YELLOW
18 DARK BLUE
16 DARK BLUE
18 TAN WITH
TRACER
12 RED
12 BROWN
12 , YELLOW
16 RED
16 RED
18 BLACK
18 RED
18 BROWN
18 YELLOW
18 GRAY
16 RED
16 RED
16 RED
16 RED
16 . RED
16 LIGHT BLUE
16 BLACK
16 BLACK
WIRING
W5A-G4A-
-B2-
-M1A-M1A-
-G8-
—L7-
.
\f
Y
•
CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING
SPLICE
Fig. 2 — I n s t r u m e n t Panel
TOP LIFT SWITCH WIRING
Wiring—Model
AY-1
MyMopar.com
FENDER TURN
SIGNAL LAMP
m
m
CIRCUITS
GA
COLOR
12 RED
18 BLACK WITH
WHITE TRACER
B2
18 BLACK WITH
WHITE TRACER
D5
18 TAN
D5A 18 TAN
D5B 18 LIGHT GREEN
DSC 18 BLACK
D5D 18 LIGHT GREEN
D5E 18 LIGHT GREEN.
D6
18 LIGHT GREEN
D6A 18 LIGHT GREEN
G2
18 VIOLET
G6
18 GRAY
G7
18 DARK GREEN
16 DARK GREEN
H2
H2A 16 DARK GREEN
H3
18 BLACK WITH
TRACER
16 DARK BLUE
J2
J2A 14 DARK BLUE
14 BROWN
J3
L3
16 RED
L3A 16 RED
L3B
16 RED
L3C 16 RED
L4
16 BLACK
L4A 16 BLACK
L4B
16 BLACK
L6
18 YELLOW
WITH TRACER
L6A 18 YELLOW
L6B
18 YELLOW
L9
16 WHITE
L9A 16 WHITE
L9B
16 WHITE
L9C 16 WHITE
L21
16 BLACK
L21A 20 BLACK
R3
18 DARK GREEN
R5
16 DARK BLUE
R6
12 BLACK
S2
18 YELLOW
S4A 16 BROWN
S4B 16 BROWN
S5
12 BLACK
V10 18 BLACK
V10 18 TAN WITH
TRACER
CIR
Al
Bl
I
L 9
1
n
•HI
m
n
>
7
i
55
Z
o
o
>
o
JO
>
m
NK752
Fig. 3 — E n g i n e Compartment
Wiring—Models
AC-1,
AC-2
and
AC-3
MyMopar.com
CIRCUITS
" C " PILLAR LAMP
POCKET PANEL LAMP
DOME LAMP
FOUR DOOR SEDAN
RIGHT
LEFT
•
•—MIA—/*-t-S-
/
RIGHT
LEFT
AA1K
GROUND TO MOTOR
MID
to
M2F-
SUPPORT
TO INSTRUMENT PANEL W I R I N G
OR TO TRUNK LAMP W I R I N G
IF AVAILABLE
S
DOOR SWITCH
—
C " PILLAR LAMP WIRING
TWO AND FOUR DOOR HARDTOPS
-M2G
M2
M2
TRUNK LAMP
COURTESY LAMP
WIRING
W I R I N G CONVERTIBLE
C
-M2B-
] R
0=31-M2«4J
TO TRUNK
LAMP
-M2E-
DEFOGGER W I R I N G
-C13
RESISTANCE CABLE
-X3B4 f H x 3 A - C l
^
-X3Tl
-1
C O W L CIRCUIT
BREAKER
• T3-
REAR W I N D O W
BUCKET SEAT DIVIDER
DEFOGGER MOTOR
TO STUD O N BACK OF FRONT
SEAT CIGAR LIGHTER
• D7-
TO RADIO POWER A N T E N N A
SWITCH W I R I N G
T O LEFT A N D RIGHT
DOOR SWITCHES
G 4 —^-f\
[ f ^ j
TO FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT
X14-
— X14A-
-X13-
-X13A —
REAR
q=^~M2HTO M 2 CIRCUIT O N
-M2J-
BLACK
20
WHITE
C!3
18
BLACK
C13A
14
BLACK
C14
14
BLACK
D7
18
BROWN
VIOLET
BLACK
L7B
18
BLACK
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
L7C
18
BLACK
L7D
Ml
18
18
BLACK
PINK
MIA
18
PINK
M1B
18
PINK
MIC
18
PINK
MID
18
PINK
M1G
18
PINK
M1K
18
PINK
MIL
M2
18
18
PINK
YELLOW
YELLOW
B2A
4j^
B2C
'tfb
-t-XP^
LEFT BACK UP LAMP
D8-
18
RIGHT TAIL STOP A N D
M2A
18
M2B
18
YELLOW
M2C
18
YELLOW
M2D
18
YELLOW
M2E
M2F
18
18
YELLOW
YELLOW
M2K
18
YELLOW
M2L
18
YELLOW
M2H
18
YELLOW
M2J
18
YELLOW
m
rm
n
HI
M2M
18
YELLOW
2
-L7A-
Mil
18
BLACK
o
- D8-
M11A
SEE INSTRUMENT
PANEL W I R I N G
Cll
C12
BLACK
DO
TO TOP LIFT
SWITCH W I R I N G
VIOLET
18
18
LICENSE LAMP
L7B,T
-T2-
18
B2C
L7A
L7D-
i
B2B
DARK BLUE
RIGHT BACK UP LAMP
( O N REAR SHELF PANEL)
MOPAR ONLY
VIOLET
18
£ M 2 C JLT
TO CIGAR LIGHTER I N
18
L7
G R O U N D T O BLOWER
HOUSING
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C13A-
VIOLET
B2A
DARK GREEN
SWITCH
TO REAR W I N D O W |
COLOR
18
D7-
M12
18
18
M11A-
o<J
B2
D8
WIRING
T O LEFT FRONT AUTOMATIC
GA.
G4
TO D O M E LAMP
M1G
CIR.
18
BLACK
M12
18
BLACK
LEFT TAIL STOP A N D
M11B
18
8 LACK
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
Tl
12
RED
T2
12
BROWN
T2A
12
RED
T3
12
YELLOW
T3A
12
YELLOW
T4
X3
12
14
BLACK
LIGHT GREEN
z
o
X3A
14
LIGHT GREEN
D
X3B
14
LIGHT GREEN
Hi'
X13
18
BROWN
XI3A
18
BROWN
X14
18
YELLOW
X14A
18
YELLOW
1
73
>
>
DOME LAMP W I R I N G
NK 318
•
Fig. 4—Body
Wiring—Models
AC-1, AC-2 and
AC-3
N
MyMopar.com
POCKET PANEL
LAMP SWITCH WIRING
CONVERTIBLE
RIGHT REAR
SWITCH
[yOFF
M
3
.
T
TO SWITCH ON
RIGHT ROOF RAIL
- CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING SPLICE
CLtJCZ
HQ-
-H©
TO CIGAR LIGHTER GROUND
SCREW RIGHT SIDE
"C" PILLAR LAMP WIRING
TWO AND FOUR DOOR
HARDTOP
"C" PILLAR LAMPS
TO WINDOW LIFT WIRING
ON LEFT SIDE
ape
TO WINDOW LIFT WIRING
M2G
TO REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER SWITCH
-Cll-
REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER MOTOR
-C12-
CI 3
C j j j
C
C13A
1
4
TO BODY WIRING
IS©
-RESISTANCE CABLE
TO REAR AIR
CONDITIONING
SWITCH
TAIL,STOP
GROUND TO
AIR CONDITIONING UNIT
b ol-C24-ffl©
AND TURN
RIGHT
LAMPS
REAR AIR CONDITIONING BLOWER
MOTOR
Tl
TO
INSTRUMENT
PANEL "
WIRING
GROUND
© r o MOTOR
SUPPORT
RIGHT READING LAMP
AND SWITCH
FOUR DOOR HARDTOP
DOWN
TOP LIFT
MOTOR
TRUNK LAMP
j
M2D
-t
•-C31
W
Mil
L
-M2C
J
J
M 2 C
r
M2C-
G4
o<#.
Ml
-Jj
G4
^3
TO FUEL TANK
SENDING UNIT
LICENSE
LAMP
r LM2^
®
D-I
r-M2c—r—\,
I
LL
/
LEFT READING LAMP
AND SWITCH
FOUR DOOR HARD TOP
LEFT
LAMPS
-X41
-X42
CIGAR LIGHTER
•
1
WINDOW LIFT
|,
-X42
DECK LID
LOCK SOLENOID
CIR.
B2
B2A
B2B
B2C
Cll
CI 2
C13
C13A
C14
C20
C22
C22A
C24
D7
D7A
D8
D8A
G4
L7
L7A
L7B
L7C
L7D
L7E
L7F
L7G
L7H
Ml
MIA
Ml B
MIC
MID
Ml E
Ml F
M2
M2A
M2B
M2C
M2D
M2E
M2F
M2G
M2H
M2J
M3
M3A
Mil
M1IA
Ml 2
Tl
T2
T2A
T3
T3A
T4
X41
X42
X42A
GA.
18
18
18
18
18
20
18
14
14
16
16
16
16
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
16
18
18
18
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
16
16
18
COLOR
VIOLET
VIOLET
VIOLET
VIOLET
BLACK
WHITE
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BROWN
DARK GREEN
DARK GREEN
BLACK
BROWN
BROWN
DARK GREEN
DARK GREEN
DARK BLUE
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
PINK
PINK
PINK
PINK
PINK
PINK
PINK
BROWN
BROWN
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
BROWN
BROWN
BROWN
BROWN
BROWN
WHITE
WHITE
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
RED
BROWN
RED
YELLOW
YELLOW
BLACK
RED
BLACK
PINK
SIDE COWL CIRCUIT BREAKER
Fig. 5—Body
Wiring—Model
AY-1
MyMopar.com
FRONT OF VEHICLE
FOR SWITCH
FRONT OF VEHICLE
CIRCUITS
TO N
I STRUMENT
FOR SWITCH
POWER VENT SWITCH
CIR. GA. COLOR
PANEL WIRING CIRCUIT
12
Wl
TAN
RIGHT FRONT LEFT FRONT LEFT VENT
~ ~ j L BREAKERS
LEFT FRONT DOOR
W1A 12 TAN
MOTOR
fS DOOR.
DOOR LOCK RELAY
, QPEN
MASTER SWITCH
W1B 14
T
A
N
CLOSE OPEN WN
I DOW | | LOCK
UNLOCK
LOCK
14
ICLOSEICLOSE^^N
W
2
Y
E
L
L
O
W
LIFT
W2A 12
YELLOW
<p cH—W41
W2B 14
14 YELLOW
W3
YELLOW
14
W4
YELLOW
W4A 14
YELLOW
12
W8
BLACK
14
Wll
DARK BLUE
W12 14 PN
IK
Wl 2A 14
PN
IK
W13 14
ORANGE
W14 14
GRAY
14
W14A
GRAY
W14B 14 GRAY
14
W21
BROWN
W22 14
VIOLET
W22A 14
VIOLET
W23 14
RED
W24 14
DARK GREEN
W24A 14
DARK GREEN
W24B 14
DARK GREEN
W30 14
DARK BLUE
14
W30A
DARK BLUE
W31 14
RED
14
W40
WHT
IE
14
W40A
WHT
IE
W41 J4 DARK GREEN
X32
14
LIGHT GREEN
X32A 14
LIGHT CREEN
X32B 18
L
IGHT GREEN
X32C 18
LIGHT GREEN
X32D 18
LIGHT GREEN
X32E 18
LIGHT GREEN
X32F 14
LIGHT GREEN
X32G 18
LIGHT GREEN
X33
14 • ORANGE
X33A 14
FEED'
ORANGE
X33B 14
ORANGE
X33C 14
ORANGE
X33D 14
ORANGE
X33E 14
ORANGE
X33F 16
ORANGE
X34
14 PN
IK
X34A 14
PN
IK
X34B 14
PINK
X34C 14
PINK
X34D 14
PN
IK
X34E 14
PN
IK
X34F 16
P
INK
X35
18 ORANGE
X35A 18
ORANGE
X35B 18
ORANGE
X35C 18
ORANGE
X35D 18
ORANGE
X35E 18
ORANGE
X35F 18
ORANGE
X36
18
PN
IK
X36A 18
PN
IK
LEFT REAR
RIGHT REAR
11
1
Fig. 6 — P o w e r Windows
and Boor
Locks—Models
AC-1,
AC-2
and
AC-3
FRONT OF VEHICLE FOR SWITCHES
I
RG
I HT VENT TO RG
I HT FRONT
MOTOR
DOOR WN
I DOW RIGHT VENT
OPEN CLOSE
LIFT SWITCH SWITCH
TOi © P r o
W22A
W2B
F E E D
W40A
OPEN
W30A
CLOSE
m
r-
ffi.
A
—I
n
>
SO
z
©
D
>
• CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING SPLICE
t/t
NK 863
m
•
m
MyMopar.com
LEFT FRONT DOOR MASTER SWITCH
LOCK OUT
SWITCH /
WINDOW LIFT SWITCHES
REAR
FRONT
yT ^ D O W N ^ U P <XDOWN
VENT SWITCHES
OPEN CLOSE
^olfo,
Q\
DOOR
LOCK
SWITCH
.
WINDOW LIFT SWITCH
WITHOUT POWER VENTS
CLOSE
WITH POWER
^ VENTS
r
J
Sa ~Q
o'l
J X32BI
/CLOSE FEED OPEN UP FEEDDC
W40A
j W30A [
W2B
M
A
ISI
M
M
C
MD
II
M
M2A
M2B
M2C
M2D
M2E
M2F
M2G
M2H
M2J
M2K
M2L
M2M
M2N
W2A
W2B
W2C
W
A
Il 1
W12
Wll
LEFT REAR DOOR OR
QUARTER WINDOW
LIFT MOTOR
TO RIGHT REAR
AUTOMATIC DOOR
SWITCH
FOUR DOOR HARDTOP
TO LEFT REAR AUTOMATIC
DOOR SWITCH
FOUR DOOR HARDTOP
Fig. 7—'Power Windows
W22
W22A
W23
W23A
W24
W24A '
W248 "
W30
W30A| '
W31
W40
,'W40A| '
W41
X2
J<3
X3A
X3B
X3C
X3D
X3E
X32
X32A
X32B
X33
X33A
X33B
X33C '
X33D
X33E
X33H
X34
X34A
X34B
X34C '
X34D
X34E
X34H
X35
X35A
X36
X36A
and
Door
Locks—Model
AY-1
MyMopar.com
• ELECTRICAL—WIRING DIAGRAMS
STARTER MOTOR
BATT r*\
CIR
Al
AIA
OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
SOL
-G6
L O W OIL PRESSURE
SWITCH
-J3-
I G N I T I O N BALLAST
-S2-J2-
AIR C O N D I T I O N I N G ONLY
f~"^-G2
I
I
L_
O 2 A
-G2-
—G7-J
H2
H2A
H3
AIR C O N D I T I O N I N G
RESISTOR
__0
J2
J2A
J2B
J2C
J3
L3
L3A
L3B
L3C
L4
L4A
L4B
L6
SPARK PLUGS RIGHT BANK
AIR
CONDITIONING
CLUTCH
IGNITION
DISTRIBUTOR
<D<2>^)
AUTO •
PILOT <
WIRING
. WINDSHIELD
- V 1 0 - q WASHER
MOTOR
N
-D5-
-L6-
TO BULKHEAD
CONNECTOR
S i
A U T O PILOT
DRIVE MECH.
flg
m
BACK-UP LAMP
SWITCH
$—Engine
Compartment
Wiring—Model
D5
D6
G2
G2A
G6
G7
G7A
HI
HI A
L6A
L9
L9A
R3
R4
R5
R6
S2
S4
S4A
S5
V10
CIRCUITS
GA
COLOR
12 RED
16 DARK BLUE
WITH TRACER
18 T A N
18 LIGHT GREEN
18 VIOLET
18 VIOLET
18 GRAY
18 GRAY/TRACER
18 DARK GREEN
16 VIOLET
20 ORANGE
WITH TRACER
16 DARK GREEN
16 DARK GREEN
18 BLACK
WITH TRACER
12 DARK BLUE
12 DARK BLUE
12 DARK BLUE
12 DARK BLUE
12 BROWN
16 RED
16 RED
16 RED
16 RED
16 BLACK
16 BLACK
16 BLACK
18 YELLOW
WITH TRACER
18 YELLOW
16 WHITE
16 WHITE
18 DARK GREEN
16 BROWN
12 DARK BLUE
12 BLACK
12 YELLOW
16 BROWN
16 BROWN
12 BROWN
18 T A N
WITH TRACER NK 7 5 3
AY~1
R [
CIR
GROUND•
X2D
0Z3
X3A
<ZQ
FEED •
GEAR SHIFT SELECTOR LAMP
fjjZJT
£
LEFT COURTESY LAMP
-B2-Ml-E2-
T O M-2 CIRCUIT
O N D O M E LAMP
WIRING
TO
-X2-
41 0
LEFT FRONT
« 3D--MM92AA—
-»
AUTOMATIC DOOR
TO
CIGAR
LIGHTER
B1
B1A
BIB
B2
B2A
B2B
E2
E2A
E2B
E2C
Ml
MIA
M1B
MIC
M2
M2A
M2B
M2C
Til
Til A
T12
T13
X2
X2A
X2B
X2C
M2BT O CONSOLE W I R I N G
O N INSTRUMENT
PANEL
8-91
r
X2D
X2E
X3
CIRCUITS
GA
COLOR
18
WHITE
18 WHITE
18 WHITE
18 VIOLET
18 VIOLET
18 VIOLET
18 O R A N G E
18 O R A N G E
18 O R A N G E
18 O R A N G E
18 PINK
18 PINK
PINK
18
18 PINK
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 DARK GREEN
18 DARK GREEN
18 DARK BLUE
18 YELLOW
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
16 LIGHT GREEN
CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING
SPLICE
| J G R O U N D AT LEFT SIDE C O W L
SWITCH
Fig. 9 — C o n s o l e Wiring—Automatic
NK893
Transmission
and Tachometer—Models
AC-1, AC~2 and
AC-3
MyMopar.com
8-92
.ELECTRICAL—WIRING DIAGRAMSBACK-UP LAMP SWITCH \
BIB-
-M1CRIGHT
COURTESY LAMP
-M2C-
VACUUM GAUGE LAMP- X 2 G -
m
-E2A-
-E2D-
GROUND -|
X2D
0=C3
TO CIGAR
LIGHTER
X3A—CZQ
FEED
GEAR SHIFT SELECTOR LAMP
LEFT COURTESY LAMP
X2Cf j j Z X ' ' ^
-E2B- M l B-
-M2B-
CIR
B1
Bl A
BIB
B2
B2A
B2B
E2
E2A
E2B
E2D
Ml
MIA
M1B
MIC
M2
M2A
M2B
M2C
T12
X2
X2A
X2B
X2C
X2G
X3
CIRCUITS
GA
COLOR
18 WHITE
18 WHITE
18 WHITE
18 VIOLET
18 VIOLET
18 VIOLET
18 ORANGE
18 ORANGE
18 ORANGE
18 ORANGE
18 PINK
18 PINK
18 PINK
18 PINK
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 YELLOW
18 DARK BLUE
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
18 BLACK
16 LIGHT GREEN
MIA r r
us
-B2TO CONSOLE
WIRING O N
INSTRUMENT PANEL
TO M-2 CIRCUIT
O N DOME
LAMP W I R I N G
1
NT (dl—M9A—J
TO LEFT FRONT
M2AAUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH
.CIRCLE
J X INDICATES
~Y
WIRING
SPLICE
%
GROUND AT LEFT SIDE COWL
NK894
F i g . 1 0 — C o n s o l e Wiring—Automatic
Transmission
and Vacuum
Gauge—Models
AC-1,
AC-2
RIGHT COURTESY LAMP
and
AC-3
CIR
Bl
CIRCUITS
GA
COLOR
18
WHITE
B2
GROUND-
0Z3
X2D
X3A-
TO CIGAR
LIGHTER
"S3
FEED-
E2
E2A
18
18
18
WHITE
ORANGE
ORANGE
E2C
Ml
MIA
M1B
MIC
M2
M2A
M2B
M2C
Til
T11A
T13
X2
X2A
X2B
X2C
X2D
X2E
X3
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
16
ORANGE
PINK
PINK
PINK
PINK
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
YELLOW
DARK GREEN
DARK GREEN
YELLOW
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
LIGHT GREEN
TO CONSOLE W I R I N G
O N INSTRUMENT PANEL
CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING
SPLICE
TO M-2 CIRCUIT O N
DOME LAMP W I R I N G
TO LEFT FRONT « 3 h — M 2 A
AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH
Fig.
G R O U N D AT LEFT SIDE C O W L
11—Console Wiring—Manual
Transmission
and
Tachometer—Models
AC-1,
AC-2
and
AC-3
MyMopar.com
• ELECTRICAL—WIRING DIAGRAMS
RIGHT COURTESY LAMP
-MIC—I
-M2C-
-X2G-E2D-
g
8-93
-T12BX2B—
-E2A-
V A C U U M G A U G E LAMP
CIRCUITS
GROUND-
-X2A
X2D
0Z3
X3A
CZQ
T O CIGAR
LIGHTER
FEED"
GA
81
B2
18
18
E2
18
ORANGE
E2A
18
ORANGE
E2D
18
18
PINK
Ml
LEFT COURTESY LAMP
-M1B
-X3-
-M2B-
T O CONSOLE WIRING
O N INSTRUMENT
PANEL
T O M-2 CIRCUIT
O N DOME
LAMP W I R I N G
T O LEFT FRONT
<U-M2A
A U T O M A T I C D O O R SWITCH
L/
~~Y
CIRCLE
INDICATES
WIRING
SPLICE
COLOR
CIR
WHITE
WHITE
ORANGE
MIA
18
PINK
Ml B
18
PINK
MIC
18
PINK
M2
18
YELLOW
M2A
18
YELLOW
M2B
18
YELLOW
M2C
18
YELLOW
X2
18
BLACK
X2A
18
BLACK
X2B
18
BLACK
X2C
18
BLACK
BLACK
X2G
18
X3
16
LIGHT GREEN
T12B
18
DARK BLUE
G R O U N D A T LEFT SIDE C O W L
NK897
F i g . 12—Console
Wiring
Manual
Transmission
and
Vacuum
Gauge
MyMopar.com
GROUP 9
ENGINE
CONTENTS
Page
DESCRIPTION
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1
1
4
SPECIFICATIONS A N D
TIGHTENING REFERENCE . . In Back of M a n u a l
CHRYSLER ENGINE APPLICATION
MODEL
APPLICATION
A C - 1 (Std.)
Engine Designation &
Compression
Engine N a m e s
No. C y l .
Displacement
Ratio
Firebolt 270
8
8
8
8
8
8
8
" L B " 383 Cubic Inch
9.2 to 1
2 BBI. C a r b .
" L B " 3 8 3 Cubic Inch
10.0 to 1
4 BBI. C a r b .
(Opt.)
Firepower 315
AC-2 (Std.)
Firepower 315
(Opt.)
Firepower 360
A C - 3 (Std.)
Firepower 340
(Opt.)
Firepower 360
AY-1
Imperial V 8
" L B " 3 8 3 C u b i c Inch
10.0 to 1
4 BBI. C a r b .
" R B " 4 1 3 C u b i c Inch
10.0 to 1
4 BBI. C a r b . S p e c . C a m .
" R B " 4 1 3 Cubic Inch
10.0 to 1
4 BBI. C a r b .
" R B " 4 1 3 Cubic Inch
10.0 to 1
4 BBI. C a r b . S p e c . C a m .
" R B " 4 1 3 Cubic Inch
10.0 to 1
4 BBI. C a r b .
two bore carburetor; uses regular fuel.
The Firepower 315, 340 and Imperial V8 with a
10.0 to 1 compression ratio, 4 bore carburetor; uses
premium fuel.
The Firepower 360 has a 10.0 to 1 compression
ratio high-performance camshaft and valve springs,
dual exhaust system, 4 bore carburetor; uses premium fuel.
Description
The V8 engines for the 1965 Chrysler and Imperial
Models are all the valve-in-head type with hydraulic
tappets. The engines vary in compression ratio, piston
displacement, camshaft, valve springs, carburetor and
manifold arrangement (Figs. 1 and 2).
The Firebolt 270 has a 9.2 to 1 compression ratio,
PART
SERVICE
1
DIAGNOSIS
Correction
Possible C a u s e
Condition
ENGINE
E N G I N E WILL N O T
(a) W e a k
(a) Test battery specific gravity a n d recharge or
battery.
r e p l a c e a s necessary.
START
(b) C o r r o d e d or loose battery connections.
(b) C l e a n a n d tighten battery connections. Apply
(c) Faulty starting motor.
(c) Refer to "Starting Motor."*
(d) Moisture on ignition wires a n d distributor c a p .
(d) W i p e wires a n d c a p c l e a n a n d dry.
a coat of petrolatum to terminals.
(e) Faulty ignition c a b l e s .
(e) R e p l a c e a n y c r a c k e d or shorted c a b l e s .
(f) Faulty coil or condenser.
(f)
(g) Dirty or corroded distributor contact points.
(g) C l e a n or replace a s necessary.
Test a n d replace if n e c e s s a r y . *
(h) Incorrect spark plug g a p .
(h) Set g a p at . 0 3 5 " .
(i)
Incorrect ignition
(i)
Refer to "Ignition Timing."*
(j)
Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor,
(j)
C l e a n lines a n d c a r b u r e t o r . * *
(k) Carburetor
(I)
timing.
flooded.
Incorrect carburetor float setting,
(k) Adjust float level—check s e a t s . * *
(I)
Adjust float level—check s e a t s . * *
(m) Faulty fuel pump,
(m) Install new fuel p u m p . * *
(n) Carburetor percolating. N o fuel in the
(n) M e a s u r e
carburetor.
float
l e v e l . * * Adjust bowl vent. In-
spect operation of manifold control v a l v e .
MyMopar.com
9-2
ENGINE—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
E N G I N E STALLS
Possible C a u s e
Correction
(a) Adjust carburetor.**
(a) Idle speed set too low.
(b) Incorrect choke adjustment.
(b) Adjust c h o k e . * *
(c) Idle mixture too clean or too rich.
(c) Adjust carburetor.**
(d) Incorrect carburetor float setting.
(d) Adjust float setting.**
(e) Leak in intake manifold.
(e) Inspect intake manifold gasket and replace if
(f)
(f) Replace points and adjust.*
necessary.***
Dirty, burned or incorrectly gapped distributor
contact points.
(g) Worn or burned distributor rotor.
(g) Install new rotor.
(h) Incorrect ignition wiring.
(h) Install correct wiring.
(i)
(i)
Faulty coil or condenser.
Test and replace if necessary.*
ENGINE LOSS O F
(a) Incorrect ignition timing.
POWER
(b) Worn or burned distributor rotor.
(b) Install new rotor.
(c) Wrong mechanical or vacuum
(c) Install correct vacuum advance unit.
(a) Refer to "Ignition Timing/'*
advance
(distributor).
(d) Excessive play in distributor shaft.
(e) Remove a n d repair distributor.*
(f)
(f)
(g) Dirt or water in fuel line, carburetor or filter.
E N G I N E MISSES O N
(d) Remove a n d repair distributor.*
(e) Worn distributor shaft cam.
Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
Clean plugs a n d set gap at . 0 3 5 / '
(g) Clean lines, carburetor and filter.**
(h) Incorrect carburetor float setting.
(h) Adjust float l e v e l . * *
(i)
Faulty fuel pump.
(i)
Install a new pump.
(j)
Incorrect valve timing.
(j)
Refer to "Checking Valve
7
Timing/ ***
(k) Blown cylinder head gasket.
(k) Install new head g a s k e t . * * *
(1) Low compression.
(1) Test compression of each c y l i n d e r . * * *
(m) Burned, w a r p e d , pitted valves.
(m) Install new v a l v e s . * * *
(n) Plugged or restricted exhaust system.
(n) Install new parts as necessary.
(o) Faulty ignition cables.
(o) Replace any cracked or shorted cables.
(p) Faulty coil or condenser.
(p) Test and replace as necessary.*
(a) Dirty, burned, or incorrectly gapped distributor
(a) Replace points a n d adjust.*
ACCELERATION
Adjust
mechanical advance.
contact points.
(b) Dirty, or g a p too wide in spark plugs.
(b) Clean spark plugs and set gap at .035".
(c) Incorrect ignition timing.
(c) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*
(d) Dirt in carburetor.
(d) Clean carburetor.**
(e) Acceleration pump in carburetor.
(e) Install new p u m p . * *
(f)
Burned, warped or pitted valves.
(g) Faulty coil or condenser.
(f) Install new v a l v e s . * * *
(g) Test a n d replace if necessary.*
E N G I N E MISSES AT
(a) Dirty or incorrectly g a p p e d distributor contact
(a) Clean or replace as necessary.*
HIGH SPEED
(b) Dirty or g a p set too wide in spark plug.
(b) C l e a n spark plugs and set gap at .035".
(c) Worn distributor shaft c a m .
(c) Remove a n d repair distributor.*
(d) Worn or burned distributor rotor.
(d) Install new rotor.
(e) Excessive play in distributor shaft.
(e) Remove and repair distributor.*
(f) Faulty coil or condenser.
(f) Test a n d replace if necessary.*
(g) Incorrect ignition timing.
(g) Refer to "Ignition Timing."*
(h) Dirty jets in carburetor.
(h) C l e a n jets.**
(i)
(i)
Dirt or water in fuel line, carburetor or filter.
C l e a n lines, carburetor and filter.**
*Refer to the "Electrical and Instrument" Group 8 for service procedures.
* * R e f e r to the "Fuel System" Group 14 for service procedures.
* * * R e f e r to the "Engine" Group 9 for service procedures.
MyMopar.com
9-3
-ENGINE—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
NOISY VALVES
Possible Cause
Correction
(a) High or low oil level in crankcase.
(a) C h e c k for correct oil l e v e l . * * *
(b) Low oil pressure.
(b) C h e c k engine oil l e v e l . * * *
(c) Dirt in tappets.
(c) C l e a n t a p p e t s . * * *
(d) Bent push rods.
(d) Install new push r o d s . * * *
(e) W o r n rocker arms.
(e) Inspect oil supply to r o c k e r s . * * *
(f) W o r n tappets.
(f)
(g) W o r n valve guides.
(g) Ream
install new t a p p e t s . * * *
and
install
new
valves with
oversize
stems.***
CONNECTING ROD
(h) Excessive run-out of valve seats or valve f a c e s ,
(h) G r i n d valve seats a n d v a l v e s . * * *
(a) Insufficient oil supply.
(a) C h e c k engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief
(b) Low oil pressure.
(b) Check engine oil l e v e l . * * *
(c) Thin or diluted oil.
(c) C h a n g e oil to correct viscosity.
(d) Excessive b e a r i n g c l e a r a n c e .
(d) Measure
NOISE
valve, damper a n d s p r i n g . * * *
bearings
for
correct clearances or
failures.***
MAIN BEARING NOISE
(e) Connecting rod journals out-of-round.
(e) Remove crankshaft a n d regrind j o u r n a l s . * * *
(f)
(f)
Misaligned connecting rods.
Replace bent connecting r o d s . * * *
(a) Insufficient oil supply.
(a) Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief
(b) Low oil pressure.
(b) Check engine oil l e v e l . * * *
valve, d a m p e r a n d s p r i n g . * * *
(c) Thin or diluted oil.
(c) C h a n g e oil to correct viscosity.
(d) Excessive bearing c l e a r a n c e .
(d) C h e c k bearings for correct c l e a r a n c e s . * * *
(e) Excessive end p l a y .
(e) C h e c k
No.
3
main
bearings
for
wear
on
flanges.***
(f)
O I L P U M P I N G AT
Crankshaft journals out-or-round or worn.
(f)
Remove crankshaft a n d regrind j o u r n a l s . * * *
(g) Loose flywheel or torque converter.
(g) Tighten to correct torque.
(a) W o r n , scuffed, or broken rings.
(a) Hone cylinder bores if necessary a n d
RINGS
install
new r i n g s . * * *
(b) C a r b o n
in piston
ring grooves a n d
oil
ring
(b) Remove rings. C l e a n grooves. Check
slots.
groove
width. Install new r i n g s . * * *
(d) Rings fitted too tight in grooves.
(d) Remove rings. Check grooves. If groove is not
proper width, replace p i s t o n s . * * *
OIL PRESSURE D R O P
(a) Low oil level.
(a) Check engine oil level.
(b) Faulty oil pressure sending unit.
(b) Install new sending unit.
(c) C l o g g e d oil
filter.
(d) W o r n parts in oil pump.
(c) Install new oil filter.
(d) Replace worn parts or pump.
(e) Thin or diluted oil.
(e) C h a n g e oil to correct viscosity.
(f)
(f)
Excessive bearing c l e a r a n c e .
Measure bearings for correct c l e a r a n c e . * * *
(g) Oil pump relief valve stuck.
(g) Remove valve a n d inspect, c l e a n , a n d reinstall.
(h) Oil pump suction tube loose bent or c r a c k e d .
(h) Remove oil p a n a n d install new tube if necessary.
* Refer to the "Electrical a n d Instrument" G r o u p 8 for service procedures.
* * R e f e r to the " F u e l System" G r o u p 14 for service procedures.
* * * R e f e r to the " E n g i n e " G r o u p 9 for service procedures.
MyMopar.com
9-4
ENGINE
P A R I
2
ENGINE
SERVICE
PROCEDURES
TUNE-UP
(1) Test the battery specific gravity, add water if
necessary, clean and tighten the battery connections.
(2) Test the cranking voltage if below 9.6 volts
and more than 130 amperes draw. See Starting Motor
Cranking Voltage Electrical Section of this manual.
(3) Tighten the intake manifold bolts to 50 footpounds torque.
(4) Perform the cylinder compression test. The
compression should not vary more than 20 pounds for
383 cubic inch engine with 9.2 to 1 compression ratio, 25 pounds for 383 and 413 cubic inch engines
with 10.1 to 1 compression ratio.
(5) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and
adjust gap to .035 inch. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds
torque using new gaskets.
(6) Test the resistance of the spark plug cables. If
resistance is more than 30,000 ohms replace the cable.
(7) Remove the distributor. Clean the cap and rotor.
Inspect for carbon tracking, cracks and corrosion.
Inspect the breaker plate, contacts, lead wire and vacuum advance, replace if necessary. Adjust to specifications. Test coil and condenser.
(8) Install the distributor, distributor cap, and spark
plug cables. Reset the ignition timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected. The ignition timing
should be set to compensate for altitudes and/or
gasoline grades as follows:
A. At low altitudes, with any good grade of the
recommended gasoline, either "regular" or "premium," the engine will give its best performance if timed
according to specifications.
B. At high altitudes or when using higher quality
gasoline, for example "premium" where "regular" is
specified or "super premium" where premium is specified, there is less tendency for spark ping. In such
cases, improved performance may be obtained by advancing the spark not to exceed 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation ahead of specified timing.
C. When using lower grade fuels, or after carbon
has accumulated, objectionable spark ping may occur
with the specified timing. In cases of this nature, igni-
KU54A
Fig. I — F r o n t End Sectional
View
MyMopar.com
Fig. 2—Left
Side Sectional
tion timing should be retarded, but not to exceed 5
degrees of crankshaft rotation later than specified.
NOTE: It is recommended, however, that vehicles
operating at high speeds or hauling trailers have ignition timing set at not over the specified setting.
D. Within the foregoing limits, namely, from 5 degrees ahead to 5 degrees later than specified timing,
a good rule to follow is to advance the spark until a
slight ping is heard when accelerating from 15 mph
in direct drive at wide open throttle.
(9) Set carburetor idle mixture adjustment. Adjust
the throttle stop screw to specifications. Perform a
combustion analysis.
(10) Test the fuel pump for pressure and vacuum.
Refer to "Fuel System" Group 14, Specifications.
(11) Inspect the manifold heat control valve in the
right exhaust manifold for proper operation and apply
Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent Number 1879318
to the bushing and shafts.
(12) Every 6 months, remove filter element and
blow out dirt gently with air hose. Direct air from inside out, and keep nozzle 2 inches away from element
to avoid damaging (Fig. 3). Clean the metal housing
View
and replace the element. Every two years install a
new factory recommended MoPar filter element.
Service the unit more frequently when driving under severe conditions, such as in dusty areas.
Fig. 3—Cleaning
Filter
Element
MyMopar.com
9-6
ENGINE
(13) Inspect and adjust the accessory belt drives referring to "Cooling System" Group 7 for proper adjustments.
(14) Road test the vehicle as a final check.
REMOVAL O F THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(From Vehicle)
(1) Scribe the outline of the hinge brackets on the
hood to assure proper adjustments when installing.
(2) Remove the hood.
(3) Drain the cooling system and remove the battery.
(4) Remove all hoses, the fan shroud, disconnect
the oil cooler lines and remove the radiator.
(5) Disconnect the fuel lines and wires attached to
engine units. Remove the air cleaner and carburetor.
(6) Attach the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to
carburetor flange studs on the intake manifold.
(7) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and install the engine support fixture Tool C-3487 on the frame to support the rear of the engine.
(8) Drain the transmission and the torque converter.
(9) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifolds,
propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, and the oil cooler lines at the transmission.
(10) Remove the engine rear support crossmember
and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
(11) Lower the vehicle and attach the chain hoist to
the fixture eyebolt.
(12) Remove the engine front mounting bolts. Raise
the engine with a chain hoist and work the engine out
of the chassis.
(13) Place the engine in repair stand Tool C-3167
and adapter C-3662 for disassembly, using transmission mounting bolts.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(In Vehicle)
(1) Attach the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to
the carburetor flange studs on the intake manifold.
(2) Attach the chain hoist to the fixture eyebolt.
(3) Remove the engine from the repair stand and
lower the engine carefully until engine is positioned
in the vehicle.
(4) Install the engine support fixture Tool C-3487
on the frame and adjust to support the rear of the
engine.
(5) Remove the chain hoist from the fixture eyebolt.
(6) Raise the vehicle on the hoist and install and
tighten the engine front support mounting bolts.
(7) Install the transmission and the engine rear support crossmember.
(8) Lower the engine into position and install the
engine rear support crossmember bolts. Remove the
engine support fixture Tool C-3487 from the frame.
(9) Connect the propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, oil cooler lines at the transmission, connect the
exhaust pipes to the manifold using new gaskets. Install the transmission filler tube.
(10) Lower the vehicle and install the radiator, fan
shroud, hoses, oil cooler lines and connect all wires
and linkage.
(11) Remove the engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466
from the intake manifolds and install the carburetor
and fuel lines. Connect the throttle linkage.
(12) Install the hood, using the scribe marks at the
place removed for proper alignment.
(13) Close all drain cocks and fill the cooling system.
(14) Fill the engine crankcase and transmission. Refer to "Lubrication" Group 0 for quantities and lubricants to use and check entire system for leaks and
correct as necessary.
NOTE: Whenever art engine is rebuilt and a new
camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, add one
quart of factory recommended oil additive to engine oil to aid break-in (Engine Oil Additive No.
1879406). The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles, and drained at
the next normal oil change.
(15) Start the engine and run until normal operating temperature is reached.
(16) Inspect the ignition timing and adjust the carburetor as necessary.
(17) Adjust the accelerator and transmission linkages. Road test the vehicle.
ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY
The rocker arms are of stamped steel and are arranged on one rocker arm shaft, per cylinder head.
The push rod angularity tends to force the pairs of
rocker arms toward each other where oilite spacers
carry the side thrust at each rocker arm. The rocker
shaft is held in place by bolts and stamped steel retainers attached to the five brackets on the cylinder
head.
F i g . 4 — R o c k e r Arm Assemblies
Installed
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
9-7
Removal
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover and gasket.
(2) Remove the rocker shaft bolts and retainers and
remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.
(3) If the rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection, or replacement, refer to Figure 4 for proper reassembly.
Installation
(1) Install the rocker arms and shaft assembly making sure to install the long stamped steel retainers i n
the number two and four positions.
(2) Install the rocker shafts so that the / i inch diameter rocker arm lubrication holes point downward into the rocker arm, so that the 15° angle of
these holes point outward towards the valve end of
the rocker arms, as shown in Figure 5. This is necessary to provide proper lubrication to the rocker assemblies.
3
6
NOTE: The 1 5 ° angle of the rocker arm lubrication holes is determined from the center line of the
bolt holes through the shaft which are used to attach the shaft assembly to the cylinder head.
NOTE: Use extreme care in tightening the bolts so
that tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods
and permanent noisy operation may result if the
tappets are forced down too rapidly.
(3) Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 30 foot-pounds
torque.
CYLINDER HEADS
The chrome alloy cast iron cylinder heads are held
in place by 17 bolts. The spark plugs enter the cylinder head horizontally and are located at the wide
edge of the combustion chambers.
Removal
(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) Remove the alternator, carburetor and air
cleaner and the fuel line.
(3) Disconnect the accelerator linkage.
(4) Remove the vacuum control tube at the carburetor and distributor.
(5) Disconnect the distributor cap, coil wires and
the heater hose.
(6) Disconnect the heat indicator sending unit wire.
(7) Remove the spark plugs.
(8) Remove the intake manifold, ignition coil and
the carburetor as an assembly.
(9) Remove the tappet chamber cover.
(10) Remove the cylinder head covers and gaskets.
LUBRICATION HOLES
RIGHT BANK
LEFT BANK
62 X 23
Fig. 5—Rocker Arm Lubrication
Holes
(12) Remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.
(13) Remove the push rods and place them in their
respective slots in holder Tool C-3068.
(14) Remove the 17 head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove the cylinder heads.
(15) Place the cylinder head in holding fixture
Tool C-3626.
Installation
(1) Clean the gasket surfaces of the cylinder block
and cylinder head. Remove all burrs from the edges
of the cylinder heads.
(2) Inspect all the surfaces with a straightedge i f
there is any reason to suspect leakage.
(3) Coat the new gaskets with a suitable sealer, MoPar Number 1057794. Install the gaskets and cylinder
heads.
NOTE: On Imperial air conditioned cars, rotate the
crankshaft until the number eight cylinder exhaust
valve is open, to allow clearance to remove the right
bank cylinder head cover and the heater housing.
(11) Remove the exhaust manifolds.
Fig.
6—Cylinder
Head
Tightening
Sequence
MyMopar.com
9-8
ENGINE
CYLINDER HEAD
INTAKE P U S H RODS
INSTALLING ROD
(15) Install the alternator and drive belts. Tighten
the alternator bracket bolts to 30 foot-pounds, and
the alternator mounting nut to 20 foot-pounds torque.
(16) Install the fuel line and the carburetor air
cleaner.
(17) Fill the cooling system. Adjust the belt tensions as outlined in "Cooling System" Group 7.
VALVES A N D V A L V E SPRINGS
The valves arranged in-line in the cylinder heads
and inclined 30 degrees outward from vertical. The
intake and exhaust valves operate in guides that are
cast integral with the heads.
Removal
Fig. 7 — P u s h Rods
Installed
(4) Install the cylinder head bolts. Starting at the
top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 50 footpounds torque in sequence, as shown in Figure 6.
Repeat the procedure, tightening all head bolts
to 70 foot-pounds torque.
(5) Inspect the push rods and replace any worn or
bent rods.
(6) Install the push rods with the small ends in the
tappets maintaining alignment, using rod, as shown
in Figure 7.
(7) Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly starting each push rod into its respective rocker arm socket (Fig. 4) making sure to install the long stamped
steel retainers in the number two and four positions.
NOTE: Use extreme care in tightening bolts to 30
foot-pounds torque so the tappets have time to bleed
down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods, and permanently noisy operation may result if the tappets are forced down too
rapidly.
(8) Place the new cylinder head gasket in position
and install the cylinder head covers. Tighten the nuts
to 40 inch pounds torque.
(9) Install the exhaust manifolds and tighten the
nuts to 30 foot-pounds torque.
(10) Adjust the spark plugs to .035 inch gap and
install the plugs, tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque
with Tool C-3054.
(11) Install a new tappet chamber cover and tighten
the end bolts to 9 foot-pounds torque.
(12) Install the intake manifold, carburetor and ignition coil as an assembly and tighten the manifold
bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque.
(13) Install the distributor cap. Connect the coil
wire, heat indicator sending unit wire, accelerator
linkage, spark plug cables and the insulators.
(14) Install the vacuum tube from the carburetor
to the distributor.
(1) With the cylinder head removed, compress the
valve springs, using Tool C-3422A, as shown in Figure
8.
(2) Remove the valve retaining locks, valve spring
retainers, valve stem cup seals and the valve springs.
(3) Remove any burrs from the valve stem lock
grooves to prevent damage to the valve guide when
the valves are removed.
Valve
Inspection
(1) Clean the valves thoroughly, and discard any
burned, warped or cracked valves.
(2) Measure the valve stems for wear. The intake
valve stem diameter should measure .372 to .373 inch
and the exhaust valve stem diameter should measure
.371 to .372 inch. If the wear exceeds .002 inch, replace the valve.
(3) Remove the carbon and varnish deposits from
the inside of the valve guides with cleaner, Tool C-756.
REPAIR S T A N D
(TOOL)
KR141A
Fig. 8 — C o m p r e s s i n g Valve
Spring
Using
Tool
C-3422A
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
9-9
SUM
VALVE
SPRING
LOCK
RETAINER
GROOVES
KH330C
Fig. 9 — I n s t a l l i n g Tool C-3973
(4) Measure the valve stem guide clearance as follows: Install sleeve Tool C-3973 over the valve stem,
as shown in Figure 9, and install valve.
(5) The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for measuring with a dial indicator. Attach the dial indicator Tool C-3339 to the cylinder
head and set it at a right angle to the valve stem being
measured (Fig. 10).
(6) Move the valve to and from the indicator. The
total dial indicator reading should not exceed .016
inch on the intake valves, and .018 inch on the exhaust valves. Ream the guides for new valves with
oversize stems if the dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scored or worn excessively.
(7) Service valves with oversize stems are available in .005, .015 and .030 inch oversizes. Reamers to
accommodate the oversize valve stem are as follows:
Reamer Tool C-3443 (.379 to .380 inch), Reamer Tool
C-3430 (.389 to .390 inch), Reamer Tool C-3427 (.404
to .405 inch).
(8) Slowly turn the reamer by hand and clean the
guide thoroughly before installing new valves.
Fig. 11—Intake
and Exhaust
Valve
Faces
CAUTION: Do not attempt to ream the valve guides
from standard directly to .030 inch. Use step procedure of .005, .015 and .030 inch so the original
valve guide centers may be maintained.
Refacing
the Valves
and Valve
Seats
The intake and exhaust valve faces have a 45 degree angle. Always inspect the remaining valve margin after the valves are refaced (Fig. 11). Valves with
less than / inch margin should be discarded.
(1) The angle of both the valve and seat should be
identical. When refacing the valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used
for reseating stones. A true and complete valve seat
surface must be obtained.
(2) Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue to determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do this,
coat the valve seat lightly with Prussian blue, then set
the valve in place. Rotate the valve with light pressure.
If the blue is transferred to the center of the valve
face, the contact is satisfactory. I f the blue is transferred to the top edge of the valve face, lower the
valve seat with a 30° stone. I f the blue is transferred
to the bottom edge of the valve face raise the valve
seat with a 60° stone.
(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width
of the intake seats should be / i to / 2 inch. The width
of the exhaust seats should be / to
inch.
(4) Measure the concentricity of the valve seat using dial indicator No. 13725. The total runout should
not exceed .003 inch (total indicator reading).
(5) When the valves and seats are reground, the
position of the valve in the cylinder head is changed,
shortening the operating length of the hydraulic tappet. This means that the plunger is operating closer
to its "bottomed" position, and less clearance is
available for thermal expansion of valve mechanism
3
64
3
1
3
6
3
6 4
Fig. 7 0 — M e a s u r i n g Guide
Wear
Using
Tool C-3339
MyMopar.com
9-10
ENGINE
1
threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place
the spring over the stud on the table and lift the compressing lever to set the tone device. Pull on the
torque wrench until a ping is heard. Take the reading
on the torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this
reading by two. This will give the spring load at the
test length. Fractional measurements are indicated
on the table for finer adjustments. The valve springs
should test 187 to 203 pounds when compressed to
l / inch. Refer to specifications to obtain specified
height and minimum allowable tension. Discard the
springs that do not meet specifications.
(2) Inspect each valve spring for squareness at both
ends with a steel square and surface plate, as shown
in Figure 13.
(3) If the spring is more than j inch out of square,
install a new spring.
1 5
3 2
MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT
KR144B
Fig. 1 2 — M e a s u r i n g Valve Stem Length
Using
ToolC-3648
1
1Q
during high speed driving.
(6) The design of the valve mechanism includes a
safety factor to allow for a limited amount of wear,
and the refacing of the valves and seats.
(7) To insure that the limits have not been exceeded, the dimension from the valve spring seat in
the head to the valve tip should be measured with
gauge, Tool C-3648, as shown in Figure 12.
(8) The end of the cylindrical gauge and the bottom of the slotted area represent the maximum and
minimum allowable extension of the valve stem tip
beyond the spring seat.
(9) If the tip exceeds the maximum, grind the stem
tip to within the gauge limits. Clean the tappets if
tip grinding is required.
Testing
the Valve
Springs
Installation
(1) Coat the valve stems with lubricating oil and insert them in position in the cylinder head.
(2) Install new cup seals on the intake and exhaust valve stems and over the valve guides, as shown
in Figure 14 and 15 and install the valve springs and
retainers.
(3) Compress the valve springs with Tool C-3422A.
Install the locks and release tool.
NOTE: If the valves and/or seats are reground,
measure the installed height of the springs. Make
sure the measurement is taken from the bottom of
the spring seat in the cylinder head to the bottom surface of the spring retainer. If the height is
greater than l / inches, install a ^IG inch spacer in
the head counterbore to bring the spring height
back to normal l / to l / inch. (If spacers are installed, measure from the top of the spacer.)
5 7
6 4
(1) Whenever the valves are removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs
should be tested. To test a spring, determine the
length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be
tested is l / inches. Turn the table of Tool C-647 until the surface is in line with the l / inch mark on the
5 3
5 7
6 4
6 4
1 5
3 2
1 5
3 2
KU51
KR145A
Fig. 13—Inspecting
Valve
Spring
Squareness
Fig.
14—Valve
Assembly
(Disassembled
View)
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
the noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel
rough in operation.
RETAINER
SPRING
INTAKE VALVE
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably
reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and
push rod ends for wear.
SEAL
^KR147B
Fig.
7 5 — I n s t a l l i n g Valve,
Spring
and Cup
Seal
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Preliminary
to Checking
the
Hydraulic
Tappets
(1) Before disassembling any part of the engine
to correct tappet noise, read the oil pressure at the
gauge and check the oil level in the oil pan. The pressure should be between 45 and 65 pounds at 1000
R.P.M.
(2) The oil level in the pan should never be above
the "full" mark on the dipstick, or below the "add oil"
mark. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
Oil
Level
9-11
Too High
(3) If the oil level is above the " f u l l " mark on the
dipstick, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip
into the oil while the engine is running and create
foam. Foam in the oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose
length and allow the valves to seat noisily.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from a light noise to
a heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive leakdown around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the tappet, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
the plunger and the tappet body, causing the plunger
to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and the rocker arm as the valve closes. In
either case, the tappet assembly should be removed
for inspection and cleaning.
Tappet
Removal
(1) The tappet can be removed without removing
the intake manifold or the cylinder heads by following this recommended procedure: Remove the cylinder head covers.
(2) Remove the rocker arms and shaft assembly.
(3) Remove the push rods and place them in their
respective holes in Tool C-3068.
(4) Slide the puller Tool C-3661 through the push
CYLINDER
HEAD
ASSEMBLY
Oil
Level
Too Low
(4) Low oil level may allow the oil pump to take
in air which, when fed to the tappets, causes them to
lose length and allows the valves to seat noisily. Any
leaks on the intake side of the pump through which
air can be drawn will create the same tappet action.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When the oil level and leaks have
been corrected, the engine should be operated at
fast idle for sufficient time to allow all of the air inside of the tappets to be bled out.
Tappet
Noise
Diagnosis
(1) To determine the source of tappet noise, operate the engine at idle with the cylinder head covers
removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
r
M \jr
T
W
I
S
T
HYDRAULIC T A P P E T
"3 <MH*-jfc a I : ^
F i g . 7 6 — R e m o v i n g Tappet
Using
Tool
C-3661
MyMopar.com
9-12
ENGINE
rod opening in the cylinder head and seat the tool
firmly in the head of the tappet.
(5) Pull the tappet out of the bore with a twisting
motion, as shown in Figure 16.
If all tappets are to be removed, remove the hydraulic tappets and place them in their respective
holes in the tappet and push rod holder, Tool C-3068.
This will insure installation of the tappets in their
original locations.
NOTE: A diamond shaped marking stamped on the
engine numbering pad indicates that some tappet
bodies are .008 inch oversize.
CAUTION: The plunger and tappet bodies are not
interchangeable. The plunger and valve must always
be fitted to the original body. It is advisable to work
on one tappet at a time to avoid mixing of parts.
Mixed parts are not compatible. Do not disassemble a tappet on a dirty work bench.
Disassembly
(Fig.
17)
(1) Pry out the plunger retainer spring clip.
(2) Clean the varnish deposits from the inside of
the tappet body above the plunger cap.
(3) Invert the tappet body and remove the plunger
cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring,
check valve retainer and the plunger spring.
(4) Separate the plunger, check valve retainer and
check valve spring. Place all parts in their respective
place in the tappet holder, Tool C-3068.
Cleaning
and
Assembly
(1) Clean all the tappet parts in a solvent that will
remove all varnish and carbon.
(2) Replace the tappets that are unfit for further
service with new assemblies.
(3) If the plunger shows signs of scoring or wear
and the valve is pitted, or if the valve seat on the
end of the plunger indicates any condition that would
TOOL
KB971D
F i g . 18—Testing
Tappet
Using
Tool
C-3160
prevent the valve from seating, install a new tappet
assembly.
(4) Assemble the tappets, as shown in Figure 17.
Testing
(1) Fill a pan with clean kerosene.
(2) Remove the cap from the plunger and completely submerge the tappet in an upright position.
(3) Allow the tappet to fill with kerosene, remove
the tappet, and replace the cap.
(4) Hold the tappet in an upright position and insert the lower jaw of pliers, Tool C-3160, in the
groove of the tappet body (Fig. 18).
(5) Engage the jaw of the pliers with the top of
the tappet plunger. Test leakdown by compressing the
pliers. If the plunger collapses almost instantly as
pressure is applied, disassemble the tappet, clean and
test again (Fig. 18).
(6) If the tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet assembly.
Inspection
TAPPET B O D Y
PLUNGER S P R I N G
If the tappet or bore in the cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize, using Tool C-3028.
Installation
-TAPPET PLUNGER
PLUNGER C A P —
^
0
PLUNGER RETAINER S P R I N G C L I P NK559
F i g . 17—Hydraulic
(Disassembled
Tappet
View)
Assembly
(1) Lubricate the tappets.
(2) Install the tappets and push rods in their original positions.
(3) Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly.
(4) Start and operate the engine. Warm up to normal operating temperature.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
the engine must not be run above fast idle until all
of the hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and
have become quiet.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
9-13
V A L V E TIMING
(All Models)
(1) Turn crankshaft until the NO. 6 exhaust valve is
closing and the NO. 6 intake valve is opening.
(2) Insert a V& inch spacer between the rocker arm
pad and the stem tip of the NO. 1 intake valve (second
valve on the left bank).
(3) Install a dial indicator so that the plunger contacts the valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as possible.
(4) Allow the spring load to bleed the tappet down
giving in effect a solid tappet. Zero the indicator.
(5) Turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running
direction) until the intake valve has lifted .013 inch
on standard engines and .034 inch on Firepower 360
engines. The timing on the timing indicator, located
on the chain case cover, should read from 10 degrees BTDC to 2 degrees ATDC. I f the reading is not
within the specified limits: Inspect the timing sprocket index marks, inspect the timing chain for wear,
and determine the accuracy of the DC mark on the
timing indicator. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the valve is closed and remove the indicator
and the spacer.
CAUTION: Do riot turn the crankshaft any further
clockwise, as the valve spring might bottom and result in serious damage.
TIMING SPROCKETS A N D C H A I N
Removal
(1) Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator and water pump assembly.
(2) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper attaching bolt.
(3) Remove two of the pulley bolts, install Tool
C-3688, and pull the damper assembly off the end of
crankshaft, as shown in Figure 19.
(4) Remove the chain cover and gasket.
(5) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger off the end of
the crankshaft.
Fig. 2 0 — M e a s u r i n g Chain
Stretch
Testing Timing Chafe for Sfrefcli
(1) Place a scale next to the timing chain so that
any movement of the chain may be measured.
(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and apply torque i n the
direction of crankshaft rotation to take up the slack;
30 foot-pounds torque (with cylinder heads installed)
or 15 foot-pounds torque (cylinder heads removed).
(3) Holding a scale with dimensional reading even
with edge of a chain link, apply torque in the reverse
direction 30 foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) or 15 foot-pounds (cylinder heads removed),
and note the amount of chain movement, as shown i n
Figure 20.
(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds / inch.
1 1
6 4
NOTE: With a torque applied to the camshaft
sprocket bolt, the crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block the
crankshaft to prevent rotation.
(5) I f the chain is satisfactory, slide the crankshaft
oil slinger over the shaft and up against the sprocket
(flange away from the sprocket).
(6) I f the chain is not satisfactory, remove the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt.
(7) Remove the timing chain with the crankshaft
and camshaft sprockets.
Installation
Fig, j © — R e m o v i n g Vibration
Using Tool
Damper
C-3688
Assembly
(1) Place both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on
exact imaginary center line through both camshaft
and crankshaft bores.
(2) Place the timing chain around both sprockets.
(3) Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up
with the keyway location on the crankshaft sprocket
and the dowel holes in the camshaft sprocket.
MyMopar.com
Fig. 23—Removing
f
y
Fig. 2 1 — I n s p e c t i n g Alignment
Straight
S
_ &
Oil Seal Using Tool
C-3506
KR15G
of Timing Marks
Using
a
Edge
(4) Lift the sprockets and chain (keep sprockets
tight against the chain in position as described).
(5) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts.
(6) Use a straight edge to measure alignment of
the timing marks (Fig. 21).
(7) Install the washer and camshaft sprocket bolt
and tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.
TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER OIL
SEAL REPLACEMENT
(Cover Removed from Engine)
Removal
(1) Position the puller screw of Tool C-3506
through the case cover, the inside of the case cover
up. Position the puller blocks directly opposite each
other, and force the angular lip between the neoprene
and flange of the seal retainer.
(2) Place the washer and nut on puller screw.
Tighten the nut as tight as possible by hand, forcing
the blocks into gap to a point of distorting the seal
retainer lip (Fig. 22). This is important (puller is
only positioned at this point).
(3) Place the sleeve over the retainer and place the
removing and installing plate into the sleeve.
(4) Place the flat washer and nut on the puller
screw. Hold the center screw and tighten the puller
nut to remove the seal (Fig. 23).
/nsfaJfcrffon of the Oil Seal
(1) Insert the puller screw through the removing
and installing plate so that the thin shoulder will be
facing up.
(2) Insert the puller screw with the plate through
the seal opening (inside of the chain case cover facing
up).
(3) Place the seal in the cover opening, with the
neoprene down. Place the seal installing plate into
the new seal, with the protective recess toward lip of
the seal retainer (Fig. 24).
NOTE: The lip of the neoprene seal must be toward source of oil.
(4) Install the flat washer and nut on the puller
!
ASSEMBLY
^ C H A I N
CASE C O V E R
KR154
F i g . 2 2 — P u l l e r Blocks
Using
Expanded
Tool
to Puller
C-3506
Position
Fig. 24—Positioning
Using
Installer
Tool
Plate on New
Seal
C-3506
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
PULLER SCREW (TOOL) < 5
9-15
C H A I N CASE COVER
TIMING
INDICATOR
CYLINDER BLOCK
TIMING MARK
VIBRATION DAMPER
.
TOOL
- I N S T A L L I N G PLATE
(TOOL)
C H A I N CASE COVER
KR157A
Fig.
2 7 — I n s t a l l i n g Vibration
Using
Fig. 25—Installing
New Seal Using Tool C-3506
screw, hold screw and tighten the nut (Fig. 25).
(5) The seal is properly installed when the neoprene
is tight against the face of the cover. Try to insert a
. 0 0 1 5 inch feeler gauge between the neoprene and
the cover (Fig. 26). If the seal is installed properly, the
feeler gauge cannot be inserted.
NOTE: If is normal to find particles of neoprene
collected between the seal retainer and the crankshaft oil slinger after the seal has been in operation.
Installing
the
Chain Case Cover
(1) Be sure the mating surfaces of the chain case
cover and cylinder block are clean and free from
burrs.
(2) Using a new gasket slide the chain case cover
over the locating dowels. Install and tighten bolts
15 foot-pounds torqufe.
Installing
Tool
Damper
Assembly
€-3688
crankshaft.
(2) Place the installing tool, part of puller set Tool
C-3688 in position and press the damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 27).
(3) Install the damper retainer washer and bolt.
Tighten to 135 foot-pounds torque.
(4) Slide the belt pulley over the shaft and attach
with bolts and lockwashers.
(5) Tighten the bolts to 15 foot-pounds torque.
CAMSHAFT
The camshaft has an integral oil pump and distributor drive gear and fuel pump eccentric, as shown in
Figure 28.
The rearward camshaft thrust is taken by the rear
face of the cast iron camshaft sprocket hub, bearing
directly on the front of the cylinder block, eliminating
the need for a thrust plate. The helix of the oil pump
and distributor drive gear and the camshaft lobe taper
both tend to provide a rearward thrust.
Vibration Damper
(1) Place the damper hub key i n the slot i n the
crankshaft, and slide the vibration damper on the
FEELER G A U G E *
Removal
(1) With the tappets and the timing chain and
sprockets removed, remove the distributor and lift
out the oil pump and distributor drive shaft.
(2) Remove the fuel pump to allow the fuel pump
push rod to drop away from the cam eccentric.
C A M S H A F T SPROCKET
CAMSHAFT
^ f * * C 1 _ _ - ^ b l S T R I B U T O R DRIVE G E A R
(CAMSHAFT)
FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC ( C A M S H A F T )
LOCATING
DOWEL
KR158
C H A I N CASE COVER
Fig.
Fig. 26—Inspecting Seal for Proper
Seating
28—Camshaft
and Sprocket
(Disassembled
Assembly
View)
MyMopar.com
9-16
ENGINE
(3) Remove the camshaft, being careful not to damage the camshaft bearings with the cam lobes.
TOOL
Installation
(1) Lubricate the camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert the camshaft to within 2 inches
of its final position in the cylinder block.
(2) Modify Tool C-3509 by grinding off the index
lug holding the upper arm on the tool and rotate the
arm 180 degrees.
(3) Install Tool C-3509 in place of the distributor
drive gear and shaft, as shown in Figure 29.
(4) Hold the tool in position with the distributor
lock plate screw. This tool will restrict the camshaft
from being pushed in too far and prevent knocking
out the welch plug in the rear of the cylinder block.
NOTE: The tool should remain installed until the
camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain
have been installed.
NOTE: Whenever an engine is rebuilt and a new
camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, one
quart of factory recommended oil additive MoPar
Part Number 1879406 should be added to the engine oil to aid in break-in. The oil mixture should
be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles.
Drain the oil mixture at the next normal oil change.
NOTE: Whenever the camshaft is replaced, all of
the tappet faces must be inspected for crown with a
straight edge. If any contact surface is dished or
worn, the tappet must be replaced.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
Removal
(1) With the engine completely disassembled, drive
out the rear camshaft bearing welch plug.
(2) Install the proper size adapters and horse shoe
washers (part of Tool C-3132A) at the back of each
bearing to be removed and drive out the bearings
(Fig. 30).
11
''memmi^SmSmi^
C R A N K S H A F T M A I N B E A R I N G OIL HOLE
C A M S H A F T B E A R I N G OIL HOLE
KR164
Fig. 3 0 — R e m o v i n g Camshaft
Using
Tool
Bearing
C-3132A
Installation
(1) Install the new camshaft bearings with Tool
C-3132A. Place the new camshaft bearing over the
proper adapter.
(2) Position the bearing in the tool. Install the horse
shoe lock and by reversing the removal procedure,
carefully drive bearing into place, as shown in Figure
30.
(3) Install the remaining bearings in like manner.
1
NOTE: Install the NO. 1 camshaft bearing /
ward from the front face of the cylinder block.
3 2
in-
The oil holes in the camshaft bearings and the cylinder block must be in exact register to insure proper
lubrication (Fig. 30).
The camshaft bearing index can be inspected after
installation by inserting a pencil flashlight in the
bearing. The camshaft bearing oil hole should be perfectly aligned with the drilled oil passage from the
main bearing. Other oil holes in the camshaft bearings should be visible by looking down on the left
bank oil hole above and between NO. 6 and NO. 8 cylinders to NO. 4 camshaft bearing and on the right
bank above and between NO. 5 and 7 cylinders to NO.
BUSHING
TOOL v .
ARM
(TOOL)
m
KR159
DISTRIBUTOR D R I V E G E A R ( C A M S H AAFT)
FT)
ij KK R 1 6 2
Fig. 3 7 — R e m o v i n g Distributor
Fig.
29—Camshaft
Holding
Tool
C-3509
Using
Drive Shaft
Bushing
Tool C-3052
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ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR A N D O I L
P U M P DRIVE
GEAR
9-17
SLOT
KR160
Fig. 3 2 — I n s t a l l i n g Distributor
Using
Tool
Drive Shaft
Bushing
KR163A
CENTER LINE O F C R A N K S H A F T
C-3053
Fig. 3 4 — D i s t r i b u t o r Drive
4 camshaft bearings. If the camshaft bearing oil holes
are not in exact register, remove and reinstall them
correctly. Use Tool C-897 to install a new welch plug
Gear
Installed
size, as shown in Figure 33. DO NOT REAM THIS
BUSHING.
at the rear of camshaft. Be sure this plug does not leak.
Distributor
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING
Removal
(1) Insert Tool C-3052 into the old bushings and
thread down until a tight fit is obtained (Fig. 31).
(2) Hold the puller screw and tighten puller nut unt i l the bushing is removed.
Installation
(1) Slide a new bushing over the burnishing end of
Tool C-3053 and insert the tool bushing into the bore,
as shown in Figure 32.
(2) Drive the bushing and tool into position, using
a soft hammer.
(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by tightening the puller nut, the bushing is expanded tight in the block and burnished to the correct
Timing
Before installing the distributor and the oil pump
drive shaft, time the engine as follows:
(1) Rotate the crankshaft until NO. 1 cylinder is at
top dead center on the firing stroke.
(2) When in this position, the straight line on the
vibration damper should be under " O " on the timing
indicator.
(3) Coat the shaft and drive gear with engine oil.
Install the shaft so that after the gear spirals into
place, it will index with the oil pump shaft, so that
the slot in top of the drive gear will be parallel with
the center line of the crankshaft, as shown in Figure
34.
Installation
of Distributor
(1) Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on
the cylinder block with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the center of the engine.
(2) Turn the rotor until it points forward and to
the approximate location of the No. 1 tower terminal
in the distributor cap.
(3) Place the distributor gasket in position.
(4) Lower the distributor and engage the shaft in
the slot of the distributor drive shaft gear.
(5) Turn the distributor clockwise until the breaker
contacts are just separating, install and tighten the
hold down clamp.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Fig. 3 3 — B u r n i s h i n g Distributor
Using
Drive Shaft
Tool C-3053
Bushing
The cylinder block is of the deep block design which
eliminates the need for a torque converter housing
adapter plate. Its sides extend three inches below the
crankshaft center line.
MyMopar.com
9-18
Piston
ENGINE
Removal
(1) Remove the top ridge of the cylinder bores with
a reliable ridge reamer before removing the pistons
from the cylinder block. Be sure to keep the tops of
CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
the pistons covered during this operation.
NOTE: The pistons and connecting rods must he
removed from the top of the cylinder block. When
removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies
from the engine, rotate the crankshaft so each connecting rod is centered in the cylinder bore.
(2) Remove the connecting rod cap.
(3) Install Tool C-3221 on one connecting rod
bolt and protector over the other bolt and push each
piston and rod assembly out of the cylinder bore.
(4) After removal, install the corresponding bearing cap on the rod.
Cleaning and Inspection
(1) Clean the cylinder block thoroughly and inspect
all the core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core hole plugs are installed, coat the
edges of the plug and core hole with a suitable sealer
and drive the plugs in place with driver, Tool C-897.
(3) Examine the block for cracks or fractures.
Inspection
Cylinder
Bores
The cylinder walls should be measured for out-ofround and taper with Tool C-119. If the cylinder bores
show more than .005" out-of-round, or a taper of more
than .010" or if the cylinder walls are badly scuffed
or scored, the cylinder block should be rebored and
honed, and new pistons and rings fitted. Whatever
type of boring equipment is used, boring and honing
operation should be closely coordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings in order that specified
clearance may be maintained.
Honing
Cylinder
Bores
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean rags under the
bores, over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials from entering the crankcase area.
(1) To remove light scoring, scuffing or scratches
from the cylinder walls, use resizing hone Tool C-823
with 220 grit stones and 390 extensions necessary
with 383 and 413 cubic inch engines. Usually a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required
limits.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls should be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, Tool C-3501,
equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20 to 60
strokes depending on the bore condition will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Inspect the
cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil
C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from major oil distributors. Do not use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
Fig. 35—Cross-Hatch
Pattern
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marks intersect at 60°, the cross hatch
angle is most satisfactory for proper seating of rings
(See Fig. 35).
(4) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives. Wash
the cylinder block and crankshaft thoroughly.
CAUTION: Be sure all abrasives are removed from
the engine parts after honing. It is recommended
that a solution of soap and water be used with a
brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The
bore can be considered clean when it can be wiped
clean with a white cloth and the cloth remains clean.
Oil bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
Pisfons
The pistons are cam ground so that the diameter
at the pin boss is less than its diameter across the
thrust face. This allows for expansion under normal
operating conditions. Under operating temperatures,
expansion forces the pin bosses away from each other, thus causing the piston to assume a more nearly
round shape. It is important that old or new pistons
be measured for taper and elliptical shape before
they are fitted into the cylinder bore (See Fig. 36).
Finished
Pistons
All pistons are machined to the same weight in
grams, regardless of oversize so piston balance can be
maintained. For cylinder bores which have been honed
or rebored, pistons are available in standard and the
following oversizes: .005, .020, and .040 inch.
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
Fig. 36—Piston
Fitting
Measurements
Pistons
The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.
The specified clearance between the piston and the
cylinder wall is .0003 to .0013 inch.
The piston diameter should be measured at the top
of skirt 90 degrees to the piston pin axis. The cylinder
bores should be measured halfway down the cylinder
bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft center
line.
NOTE: Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at normal room temperature, 70 degrees F.
All service pistons include pins, and are available
in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020
and .040 inch.
Fitting
Rings
(1) Measure the piston ring gap about two (2) inches
from bottom of cylinder bore in which it is to be
fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push the
rings down to insure positioning rings squarely in
the cylinder wall before measuring.)
(2) Insert the feeler stock in the gap. The ring
gap should be between .013 to .052 inch for the compression rings and .015 to .062 inch for the oil ring
steel rails in standard size bores. Maximum gap on
.005 inch O/S bores should be .060 inch for compression rings and .070 inch for the oil ring steel rails.
(3) Measure the side clearance between the piston
ring and the ring groove (Fig. 37). The clearance
should be .0015 to .003 inches for the top compression ring and the intermediate ring, and .001 to .009
inch for the oil control ring, for new service rings.
(4) Install the three piece oil ring in the lower ring
groove using the instructions in the ring package.
(5) Install the tin coated ring in the middle groove
and the chrome compression ring in the top groove,
so that the side marked "TOP" is up.
Fig. 37—Measuring
9-19
Piston Ring Clearance
(6) For the two top rings use ring installer Tool
C-3673 for the 383 cubic inch engine, and Tool C-3671
for the 413 cubic inch engines.
Removal
of Piston Pin
(1) Arrange Tool C-3684 parts for the removal of
piston pin, as shown in Figure 38.
(2) Install pilot on the main screw.
(3) Install the main screw through the piston pin.
(4) Install anvil over the threaded end of the main
screw with small end of anvil against the piston boss.
NOTE: Be sure spring is removed from the anvil.
(5) Install nut loosely on the main screw and place
the assembly on a press, as shown in Figure 39.
(6) Press the piston pin out of the connecting rod.
NOTE: When the pin falls free from the connecting rod, stop the press to prevent damage to bottom of the anvil.
(7) Remove the tool from the piston.
NUT (TOOL)
- ANVIL (TOOL)
PISTON
PILOT (TOOL)
MAIN
/ S C R E W (TOOL)
GUIDE-SMALL
/
(TOOL)
PISTON PIN
CONNECTING ROD
KR195B
Fig. 38—Tool
G U I D E - L A R G E (TOOL)
Arrangement
Using
Tool
for Removing
Piston Pin
C-3684
MyMopar.com
9-20
ENGINE
PRESS
-MAIN
- PRESS
,-MAIN
SCREW
SCREW
(TOOL)
(TOOL)
PISTON PIN
-PILOT (TOOL)
-PISTON
-PISTON
PISTON
PIN
V
—
-.mi
if
m
j^t*-ANVIL
f .
KR166
F i g . 3 9 — R e m o v i n g Piston Pin Using Tool
Installation
C-3684
of Piston Pin
(1) Test the piston pin fit in the piston. It should
be a sliding fit in the piston at 70 degrees F. Piston
pins are supplied in standard sizes only.
(2) Lubricate the piston pin holes in the piston and
connecting rod.
(3) Arrange the Tool C-3684 parts for installation
of piston pin as shown in Figure 40.
(4) Install the spring inside the pilot and install
the spring and pilot in the anvil. Install the piston
pin over the main screw.
(5) Place the piston, with "front" up, over the pilot
so that the pilot extends through the piston pin hole.
(6) Position the connecting rod over the pilot
which extends through the piston pin hole.
NOTE: Assemble the rods to the pistons of the
right cylinder bank (2, 4, 6, and 8) with the indent on the piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod. As-
Fig. 40—Fool
Arrangement
Using
Tool
for Installing
C-3684
- A N V I L (TOOL)
(TOOL)
Piston
Pin
.
i
i
, M
KR16?
Fig. 4 1 — I n s t a l l i n g Piston Pin
semble the rods to pistons of the left cylinder
bank (1, 3, 5, and 7) with the indent on the piston
head on the same side as the large chamfer on the
large bore end of the connecting rod.
(7) Install the main screw and piston pin in the
piston, as shown in Figure 40.
(8) Install the nut on puller screw to hold the assembly together. Place the assembly on a press, as
shown in Figure 41.
(9) Press in the piston pin until the piston pin
"bottoms" on the pilot. This will position the pin in the
connecting rod.
(10) Remove the tool and arrange tool parts and
piston assembly in the same manner, as shown in Figure 38.
(11) Place the assembly in a vise, as shown in
Figure 42.
Fig. 42—Testing
Fit of Piston Pin in
Rod Tool
Connecting
C-3684
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
9-21
The connecting rod journals are identified by the
letter "R" and main bearing journals by the letter
" M . " For example " M - l " indicates that NO. 1 main
bearing is .001 inch undersize.
INSTALLATION O F C O N N E C T I N G ROD
BEARINGS
NOTE: Fit all rods on one bank until completed.
Do not alternate from one bank to another, because
when the rods are assembled to the pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to
another.
KR169
F i g . 4 3 — S h o w i n g L o c a t i o n of E x t e r n a / E n g i n e
Numbering
Pad
(12) Attach the torque wrench to nut and tighten
up to 15 foot-pounds torque. If the connecting rod
moves downward on the piston pin, reject this connecting rod and piston pin combination. Obtain a
connecting rod with proper small end bore diameter
and repeat the installation and tightening procedure.
(13) If the connecting rod does not move under
15 foot-pounds torque, the piston pin and connecting
rod interference is satisfactory, remove the tool.
Each bearing cap has a small " V " groove across
the parting face. When installing the lower bearing
shell, make certain that the " V " groove in shell is in
line with " V " groove in cap. This allows lubrication
of the cylinder wall. The bearings should always be
installed so that the small formed tang fits into the
machined grooves of the rods. The end clearance
should be from .009 to .017 inch (two rods).
Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft
journals should be held to a maximum of .001 inch.
Bearings are available in .001, .002, .003, .010 and
.012 inch undersize.
NOTE: Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a
new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not
file the rods or bearing caps.
MEASURING THE C O N N E C T I N G ROD
BEARING CLEARANCE
C O N N E C T I N G RODS
IMPORTANT: A Maltese Cross stamped on the engine numbering pad (Fig. 43) indicates that engine is equipped with a crankshaft which has one
or more connecting rods and/or main bearing journal finished .001 inch oversize. The position of the
undersize journal or journals is stamped on a machine surface of the NO. 3 counterweight (Fig.
Shim Stock
Method
(1) Place an oiled .001 inch feeler stock (¥2 inch
wide and % inch long) between the bearing and the
connecting rod journal.
(2) Install the bearing cap and tighten to 45 footpounds torque.
(3) Turn connecting rod A turn in each direction.
A slight drag should be felt which indicates clearance
is satisfactory. The correct clearance is from .0005 to
.0015 inch.
(4) The side play should be from .009 to .017 inch.
X
44).
LETTERS
KK
Fig. 44—Showing
Location
Counterweight
of Mark
162
of No. 2
INSTALLING THE PISTON A N D C O N N E C T I N G
ROD ASSEMBLY IN CYLINDER BLOCK
(1) Before installing the pistons, rods, and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression
ring gaps are staggered so that neither are in line
with the oil ring rail gaps.
(2) The oil ring expander ends should be positioned toward the outside of the " V " of the engine.
The oil ring rail gaps should be positioned opposite
each other and above the piston pin holes.
(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean en-
MyMopar.com
9-22
ENGINE
CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNALS
The crankshaft main bearing journals should be
inspected for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Journal grinding should not exceed .012 inch under the
standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind the thrust
faces of the NO. 3 main bearing. Do not nick the
crankpin or main bearing fillets. After regrinding, remove the rough edges from the crankshaft oil holes
and clean out all oil passages.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
Fig. 45—installing
Connecting
Rod Using
Tool C - 3 2 2 7
gine oil, slide the ring compressor, Tool C-385, over
the piston and tighten with the special wrench (part
of Tool C-385).
(4) Be sure the position of rings does not change
during this operation. Screw the connecting rod bolt
protector (part of Tool C-3221) on one rod bolt, and
insert the rod and piston into cylinder bore.
N O T E : Rotate the crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is on center of the cylinder bore.
(5) Attach the puller part of Tool C-3221 on the
other bolt, and guide the rod over the crankshaft
journal, as shown in Figure 45.
(6) Tap the piston down in the cylinder bore, using
the handle of a hammer. At the same time, guide the
connecting rod into position on crankpin journal.
(7) The notch or groove on the top of the piston
must be pointing toward front of the engine and the
larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be
installed toward the crank pin journal fillet.
(8) Install the rod caps, tighten nuts to 45 footpounds torque.
New lower main bearings halves Numbers 1, 2, 4, 5
are interchangeable, as shown in Figure 46. New upper main bearing halves Number 2, 4 and 5 are also
interchangeable. Upper and lower bearing halves are
not interchangeable because the upper bearing is
grooved and the lower is not.
The NO. 1 upper main bearing IS NOT INTERCHANGEABLE AND IS CHAMFERED on the tab side
for timing chain oiling and can be identified by a red
marking on the edge of the bearing.
The upper and lower NO. 3 bearings are flanged to
carry the crankshaft thrust loads and are not interchangeable with any other bearings in the engine.
NOTE: The bearings that are not badly worn or
pitted must be reinstalled in the same position.
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and
should be marked at removal to insure correct assembly. Bearings are available in standard and the following undersizes: .001, .002, .003, .010 and .012 inch.
Do not install an undersize bearing that will reduce
the clearance below specifications.
MAIN BEARINGS
Removal
(1) Remove the oil pan and mark bearing caps be-
UPPER
i
LOWER
,'REMOVING.i^^l
Fig. 47—Removing
Fig. 46—Main
Bearing
Identification
& INSTALLING
or Installing
Upper
Main
KB53A
Bearing
Shell
MyMopar.com
ENGINE
9-23
fore removal.
(2) Remove the bearing caps one at a time. Remove the upper half of bearing by inserting Tool C3059 (Fig. 47) into the oil hole of crankshaft.
(3) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing.
Installation
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly
torqued.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Tool C-3059
into the oil hole of the crankshaft (Fig. 47).
(2) Slowly rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise
sliding the bearing into position. Remove Tool C3059.
BEARING C L E A R A N C E MEASUREMENT
(3) Smooth the edges of a V2 x % inch piece of
soft copper or brass shim stock, .001 inch thickness.
(4) Install bearing in center main bearing cap, bearing tank in groove in cap, lubricate bearing and position the shim stock across the bearing, install cap,
tighten bolts to 85 foot-pounds torque.
(5) If a slight drag is felt as the crankshaft is
turned (moved no more than V± turn in either direction), the clearance is .001 inch or less and is considered satisfactory.
If, however, no drag is felt, the bearing is too large
or the crankshaft cannot be rotated, the bearing is
too small and should be replaced with the correct size.
(6) Measure crankshaft end play .002 to .007 inch.
If end play is less than .002 inch or more than .007
inch, install a new number 3 main bearing.
(7) Fit the remaining bearings in same manner.
It is permissable to use one .001 inch undersize
bearing shell with one standard bearing shell or one
.002 inch undersize bearing shell with one .001 inch
Fig. 48—Installing
Rear Main
Bearing
Lower
Oil
Seal
413 Cubic Inch Engines, with bridge removed until
the tool is seated in the bearing bore.
(3) Hold the tool in this position and cut off the
portion of the seal that extends above the block on
both sides.
Lower Rear Main
Seal
Installation
(1) Install a new seal in the seal retainer so that
the ends protrude (Fig. 48).
(2) Install the bridge on tool and tap the seal down
into position with Tool C-3625 for 383 Cubic Inch Engines or Tool C-3743 for 413 Cubic Inch Engines until the tool is seated.
(3) Trim off that portion of the seal that protrudes
above the cap (Fig. 49).
Side Seals
Installation
NOTE: Perform the following operations as rapidly
as possible. These side seals are made from a material that expands quickly when oiled.
undersize shell. Always use the smaller diameter bearing half as the upper. Never use an upper bearing
half more than .001 inch smaller than the lower bearing half and never use a new bearing half with a used
bearing half.
REPLACEMENT O F THE REAR M A I N
BEARING OIL SEAL
(Crankshaft Removed)
Upper
Rear Main
Seal
Installation
(1) Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the
cylinder block so that both ends protrude.
(2) Tap the seal down into position, using Tool C3625 for 383 Cubic Inch Engines or Tool C-3743 for
Fig. 49—Trimming
Rear Main
Bearing
Lower
Oil
Seal
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9-24
ENGINE
F i g . 5 2 — R e a r Engine
Fig. 50—Front
E n g i n e M o u n t s AY-1
(1) Apply mineral spirits or diesel fuel to the side
seals.
(2) Install seals immediately in the seal retainer
grooves.
(3) Install the seal retainer and tighten screws to
30 foot-pounds torque.
NOTE: Failure to pre-oil the seals will result in an
oil leak.
FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS
NOTE: Frame bracket studs and torque nuts are
used in the place of bolts. Heat shields have been
added to protect the engine mounts.
Mount
AY-1
(3) Remove the torque nuts from the frame bracket studs.
(4) Raise the engine just enough to remove the
front engine mount assembly.
Installation
(1) Install the mounts on the engine and tighten
the nuts to 45 foot-pounds torque, as shown in Figures 50 and 51.
(2) Slide the heat shields over the engine mount
bolts and install the second nuts. Tighten the nuts to
45 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Lower the engine and install the washers and
pre-torque nuts on the frame bracket studs. Tighten
the nuts to 75 foot-pounds torque.
(4) Connect the throttle to transmission and carburetor linkage.
Removal
REAR ENGINE MOUNT
(1) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the transmission and at the carburetor.
(2) Raise the hood and position the fan to clear the
radiator hose and the radiator top tank.
(Figs. 52 a n d 53)
Removal
(1) Raise the vehicle on hoist.
W I T H 4 SPEED
MANUAL
TRANSMISSION
3 SPEED A U T O M A T I C
TRANSMISSION
3 SPEED M A N U A L
TRANSMISSION
35 FT. LB.
<t>150 I N . LB.
NK756
F i g . 5 7 — F r o n t Engine
Mounts
AC-1, AC-2, AC-3
Fig. 53—Rear
Engine
Mount
AC-1, AC-2, AC-3
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ENGINE
(2) Install the transmission jack.
(3) Remove the rear engine crossmember from the
frame.
(4) Remove the rear engine mount from the crossmember.
Installation
(1) Install the rear engine mount to the transmission and tighten bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(2) Install the rear engine crossmember to the
frame and tighten the bolts to 75 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Remove the transmission jack.
(4) Install the rear engine mount to the crossmember bolts and tighten to 150 inch-pounds torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
C R A N K C A S E VENTILATION SYSTEM
Description
A l l models are equipped with a positive crankcase
ventilation system consisting of a crankcase ventilator valve and cap mounted on the cylinder head cover, a special carburetor with a hose fitting in its base,
and a hose connecting the ventilator valve to the carburetor base fitting. The oil filler cap provides the air
inlet for the system. The air drawn into the oil filler
cap is circulated through the engine, and drawn out
of the cylinder head cover by manifold vacuum into
the combustion chambers and dispelled with the exhaust gases (Fig. 54).
9-25
performance evaluation. This service will be required
more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for
short trips—driving less than 10 miles—with frequent idling, such as city traffic.
With the engine running at idle, remove the ventilator valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover.
If the valve is not plugged, a hissing noise will usually
be heard as air passes through the valve and a strong
vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over
the valve inlet. Replace the ventilator valve and cap
assembly and remove the inlet breather cap. With the
engine still running at idle, loosely hold a piece of
stiff paper or a parts tag over the oil fill pipe. Within
a few seconds, it should be sucked against the oil fill
pipe with a holding force. If this occurs, a final test
should be made to be certain the valve shuttle is free.
A clicking noise should be heard when the valve is
shaken (engine not running). If the noise is heard,
the unit is functioning satisfactory and no further
service is necessary.
If the valve does not click when shaken or if the
paper is not sucked against the fill pipe, the valve
should be replaced and the system retested. (Do not
attempt to clean the valve). On all engines the Mopar
Ventilator Valve is identified by a letter " H " stamped
on the end, a flat end or a black end washer. With a
new valve installed, if the vacuum can be felt with
the engine idling, the system is satisfactory. If the
vacuum cannot be felt, it will be necessary to clean
the ventilator hose and the passages in the lower part
of the carburetor. The carburetor must be removed,
hand turn a A inch drill through the passages to dislodge the solid particles. Blow clean.
X
SERVICE PROCEDURE
The system must be kept clean to maintain good
engine performance durability as deposits will accumulate in the valve, hoses, and the carburetor parts,
therefore, the ventilation system should be inspected
at least every six months and the valve replaced once
a year preferable to coincide with the annual engine
NOTE: Use a smaller drill if necessary as no metal
is to be removed. It is not necessary to disassemble
the carburetor for this service.
CLOSED C R A N K C A S E VENTILATING SYSTEM
FOR STATE O F CALIFORNIA
Description
THIS WASHER IS COLOR CODED TO IDENTIFY VENT
VALVE ASSEMBLY
V-8
Fig. 54—Crankcase
Ventilation
ENGINES
System
64 X 307A
A fully closed crankcase ventilation system (Fig.
55) is installed on vehicles built for sale in the State
of California and as extra equipment in other states.
This fully-closed crankcase system has a closed oil
filler cap with a hose connecting the filler cap to the
carburetor air cleaner housing.
The air drawn from the carburetor air cleaner
through the connecting hose to the filler cap, is circulated through the engine and drawn out of the cylinder head cover by manifold vacuum; through another connecting hose to the carburetor base, into the
combustion chamber, and dispelled with the exhaust
gases (Fig. 55).
On all California vehicles a new outer wrapper is
used on the outside of the air cleaner element except High Performance Engines with non-silenced air
MyMopar.com
9-26
ENGINE
paper is not sucked against the fill pipe, the valve
should be replaced and the system retested. (Do not
attempt to clean the valve.) On all engines, the Mopar
Ventilator Valve is identified by a letter " H " stamped
on the end, a flat end or a black end washer. With a
new valve installed, if the vacuum can be felt with
the engine idling, the system is satisfactory. If the
vacuum cannot be felt, it will be necessary to clean
the ventilator hose and the passages in the lower part
of the carburetor. The carburetor must be removed,
hand turn a Vi inch drill through the passages to dislodge the solid particles. Blow clean.
THIS WASHER IS COLOR CODED TO IDENTIFY VENT
VALVE ASSEMBLY
V-8
F i g . 5 5 — C a l i f o r n i a Closed
Crankcase
ENGINES
Ventilation
64x307B
System
cleaners. Vehicles not equipped with air cleaner element wrapper must be serviced more frequently than
the ones with the wrapper.
Service
Procedure
The system must be kept clean to maintain good
engine performance and durability as deposits will
accumulate in the valve, hose and the carburetor
parts, therefore, the ventilation system should be inspected crankcase oil changed and the valve replaced
once a year preferable to coincide with the annual
engine performance evaluation. This service will be
required more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for short trips—driving less than 10 miles—
with frequent idling, such as city traffic.
With the engine running at idle, remove the ventilator valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover.
If the valve is not plugged, a hissing noise will usually
be heard as air passes through the valve and a strong
vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over
the valve inlet. Replace the ventilator valve and cap
assembly and remove the oil filler cap. With the engine still running at idle, loosely hold a piece of stiff
paper or a parts tag over the fill pipe. Within a few
seconds, it should be sucked against the oil fill pipe
with a holding force. If this occurs, a final test should
be made to be certain the valve shuttle is free. A
clicking noise should be heard when the valve is shaken (engine not running). If the noise is heard, the unit
is functioning satisfactory and no further service is
necessary.
If the valve does not click when shaken or if the
NOTE; Use a smaller drill if necessary as no metal
is to be removed. It is not necessary to disassemble
the carburetor for this service.
CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER
(With Wrapper Air Cleaner)
The paper element carburetor air cleaner should
be inspected and cleaned every six months, and replaced every two years with wrapper.
To clean the filter element, it should be removed
from its container. Remove wrapper from element.
Wash wrapper in kerosene or similar solvent to remove oil and dirt. Shake or blot dry. Gently blow out
the dirt from the element with compressed air. The
air nozzle should be held about two inches from the
inside screen. Clean the metal housing, install wrapper on element and reinstall the element. Use a new
Mopar Filter Element for replacements. These services will be required more frequently if the vehicle is
used extensively for short trips with frequent idling.
(Without Wrapper Air Cleaner)
The paper air cleaner element should be inspected
every crankcase oil change and replaced every year.
Remove the carburetor air cleaner element from
its container. If the paper element is dry and with
only one or two oil wetted spots, clean by blowing
gently with compressed air, holding the air nozzle
about two inches from the inside screen. If the element is saturated with oil, install a new element.
NOTE: Whenever oil wetting of the paper element
is observed, the crankcase ventilator valve and associated parts should be checked for excessive deposit build-up or plugging.
Clean the metal housing and reinstall the element.
These services will be required more frequently if
the vehicle is used extensively for short trips with
frequent idling.
MyMopar.com
E N G I N E — O I L I N G SYSTEM
9-27
PART 3
ENGINE OILING SYSTEM
Description
The engine oiling systems consists of an externally
mounted rotor type pump, a full flow oil filter, oil pan
SERVICE
and the necessary lubrication passages. Oil is forced
by the oil pump through the filter to a series of oil
passages in the engine, as shown in Figure 56.
PROCEDURES
vide clearance, and lower the pan. Turn the pan
counter-clockwise to clear the oil screen and suction
pipe as it is lowered.
E N G I N E OIL P A N
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and disconnect the
steering linkage from the idler arm and steering arm.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe branches from the
right and left manifolds.
(4) Remove the clamp attaching the exhaust pipe
to the extension and remove the exhaust pipe.
(5) Drain the crankcase oil.
(6) Remove the converter dust shield.
(7) Remove the oil pan bolts. Turn the flywheel until the counterweight and connecting rods at the front
end of crankshaft are at their highest position to pro-
Installation
(1) Inspect the alignment of the oil strainer. The
bottom of the strainer must be on a horizontal plane
with the machined surface of the cylinder block. The
bottom of the strainer must touch the bottom of the
oil pan.
(2) Install the oil pan.
(3) Install the converter dust shield.
(4) Connect the exhaust pipe branches to the manifolds and to the exhaust extension and install the outlet vent pipe.
ROCKER
Fig. 56—Engine
Oiling
ARM
System
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9-28
E N G I N E — O I L I N G SYSTEM
MM
BOLTS A N D W A S H E R S
PLUG
GASKET
/OIL FILTER
- COVER
SPRING
OUTER
RELIEF V A L V E
ROTOR
INNER ROTOR
AND SHAFT
PLUNGER
BODY
>'
'• V - **(?
SEAL RING
DRIVE SHAFT
AND GEAR
GASKET
"O"
RING
KR173
KB66A
Fig. 57—*.OH Pump and FHfer Assembly
(Disassembled
View)
(5) Connect the steering linkage at the idler arm
and at the pitman arm.
(6) Connect the battery cable.
(7) Install the drain plug and refill the crankcase.
OIL PUMP
Removal
Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and remove
the pump and the filter assembly from the bottom
side of the engine.
Assembly
(1) Remove the filter base and oil seal ring.
(2) Remove the pump rotor and shaft and lift out
the outer pump rotor.
(3) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug and
lift out the spring and relief valve plunger (Fig. 57).
Fig. 5 8 — M e a s u r i n g Oil Pump Cover Flatness
Fig. 59—Measuring
Outer
Rotor Thickness
Inspection
(1) Clean all the parts thoroughly. The mating face
of the filter base (oil pump cover) should be smooth.
Replace the filter base if it is scratched or grooved.
(2) Lay a straightedge across the oil pump filter
base surface (Fig. 58). If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can
be inserted between the base and the straightedge,
the filter base should be replaced.
(3) If the outer rotor length measures less than
.943 inch (Fig. 59) and the diameter less than 2.469
inches, replace the outer rotor.
(4) If the inner rotor length measures less than
.942 inch (Fig. 60), a new inner rotor should be installed.
(5) Slide the outer rotor and inner rotor into the
pump body and place a straightedge across the face
(between the bolt holes), as shown in Figure 61.
(6) If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be
Fig. 60—Measuring
Inner Rotor Thickness
MyMopar.com
E N G I N E — O I L I N G SYSTEM
Fig. 63—-Measuring
Fig. 61—Measuring
Clearance
Over
Rotors
inserted between the rotor and the straightedge replace the rotor.
(7) Remove the inner rotor and shaft leaving the
outer rotor in the pump cavity.
(8) Press the outer rotor body to one side with the
fingers and measure the clearance between the outer
rotor and the pump body (Fig. 62).
(9) If the measurement is more than .012 inch, replace the oil pump body.
(10) I f the tip clearance between the inner and outer rotor (Fig. 63) is more than .010 inch, replace the
inner and outer rotors.
Servicing
Oil Pressure
Relief
Valve
9
Between
Rotors
use new oil seal rings between the filter base and
the pump body.
Installation
(1) Install a new "O" ring seal on the pilot of the
oil pump before attaching the oil pump to the cylinder block.
(2) Install the oil pump on the engine, using a new
gasket on the engine and tighten the attaching bolts
to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Install the oil filter element.
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
The "spin on" oil filter should be replaced every 6
months, preferably to coincide with an oil change.
Removal
Inspect the oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring and for free operation in its bore. Small scores
may be removed with 400 grit wet or dry paper providing extreme care is used not to round off the sharp
edge portion of the valve.
For 383 and 413 cubic inch engines the relief valve
has a free length of 2 / to 2 / inch and is red in
color.
If the oil pressure is low, inspect for worn bearings,
or look for other causes of possible loss of oil pressure.
Clearance
9-29
(Fig. 64)
NOTE: Use care so as not to damage the transmission oil cooler lines.
(1) Using Tool C-3654 unscrew the filter from the
base on the bottom side of the engine and discard.
(2) Wipe the base clean.
19
32
G4
NOTE: When assembling the oil pump, be sure to
O I L FILTER
ASSEMBLY
Fig. 62—Measuring
Outer
Rotor
Clearance
Fig. 64—Removing
Oil
Filter
MyMopar.com
9-30
ENGINE—OILING
SYSTEM
Installation
(1) Install the "spin on" oil filter by hand, finger
tight. Do not use the tool
(2) To obtain an effective seal, tighten filter by
hand the additional number of turns indicated on the
replacement filter. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
MyMopar.com
'GROUP
11
EXHAUST SYSTEM
CONTINTS
DESCRIPTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Page
Page
1
1
SERVICE PROCEDURES . . . . . . . .
1
TIGHTENING REFERENCE . In Rear of the Manual
..
Description
Long life aluminized and stainless steel muffler
components are used on all models. Mufflers on AC-1,
AC-2 and AC-3 models are supported at the rear by
double strap hangers. " L " type hangers are used to
support the tail pipes on all models (Figs. 1, 2, 3 and
4).
Ball joint connections which allow more accurate
alignment of the exhaust system are located i n the
exhaust pipes forward of the mufflers on all models.
(Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4).
The exhaust manifolds on all engines incorporate
a thermostatic heat control valve to direct the exhaust gases to a heat chamber beneath the carburetor
mounting flange to help vaporize the fuel. The heat
control valve is located i n the right hand manifold
(Figs. 6 and 7).
SERVIC1 D I A G N O S I S
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST
NOISE
(a) Leaks a t the pipe joints.
( a ) Tighten the clamps a t the leaking joints.
(b) Burned or blown out muffler.
(b) Replace the muffler assembly.
(c) Burned or rusted out exhaust pipe.
(c) Replace the exhaust pipe.
(d) Exhaust pipe leaking a t the manifold flange.
(d) Install a new gasket a n d tighten the exhaust
(e) Exhaust manifold c r a c k e d or broken.
(e) Replace the manifold.
(f)
(f) Tighten the manifold to cylinder block nuts to
pipe flange nuts to specifications.
Leak between the manifold a n d cylinder block.
specifications.
LEAKING EXHAUST
GASES
(a) Leaks a t the pipe joints.
( a ) Tighten the clamps a t the leaking joints.
(b) D a m a g e d or improperly installed gaskets.
(b) Replace gaskets as necessary.
(c) Restriction in muffler or tail pipe.
(c) Remove the restriction, if possible or replace a s
necessary.
ENGINE HARD TO
(a) Heat control valve frozen in the open position.
(a) Free up the manifold heat control v a l v e solvent number, 1879318.
W A R M UP O R WILL
NOT RETURN TO
NORMAL IDLE
NOISE IN MANIFOLD
MANIFOLD HEAT
CONTROL VALVE
RATTLE
(a) Thermostat broken.
( a ) Replace the thermostat.
(b) W e a k or broken anti-rattle spring.
(b) Replace the spring.
(a) Thermostat broken.
( a ) Replace the thermostat.
(b) Broken, w e a k or missing anti-rattle spring.
(b) Replace the spring.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS, TAIL PIPES
Removal
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and lubricate the
clamp nuts and bolts with penetrating oil to loosen
the rust and dirt.
(2) Remove the clamps from the exhaust pipes,
mufflers and tail pipes.
MyMopar.com
11-2
EXHAUST SYSTEM
VIEW IN CIRCLE B
Fig. 1—Exhaust
System—Single
Fig. 2—Exhaust
NK947
( A C - J , AC-2, A C - 3 )
System—Dual
(M-2,
AC-3)
MyMopar.com
EXHAUST
F i g . 3 — E x h a u s t System—Single
fig,
4—Exhaust
System—Dual
(AY-1
(AY-1 Convertible
SYSTEM
11-3
Sedan)
Models)
MyMopar.com
11-4
EXHAUST SYSTEM
(3) Disconnect the ball joints in the exhaust pipes.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifolds and remove the exhaust pipe.
(5) Remove the muffler, extension pipe and the tail
pipe assembly.
NOTE; If only the muffler is to he replaced, cut the
extension at the muffler with a hack saw. If is unnecessary to remove the exhaust pipe. The replacement muffler is installed using a clamp at the front
of the muffler.
(1) Clean the manifold in solvent. Blow dry with
compressed air.
(2) Inspect the exhaust crossover passage and pressure test for leakage into any of the intake passages
(Fig. 5).
(3) Inspect the mating surfaces for parallelism.
(4) Use new gaskets when installing the manifold.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Removal
Installation
(1) Connect the exhaust pipes to the manifolds, using new gaskets. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds.
(2) Adjust the hanger heights for proper alignment.
(3) Tighten " U " bolt nuts to 100 inch-pounds.
(4) Tighten support clamp screws to 95 inchpounds.
(5) Align system at ball joints and tighten flange
bolts to 20 foot-pounds. The inner surfaces of the
flanges should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the pipe axis.
(6) Adjust the converter housing bracket, so that
it is flat against the converter housing and in the
proper contact with the pipe tab. Tighten screw to 15
foot-pounds.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
NOTE; Refer to the "Engine" Group 9 for removal
and installation of the intake manifold.
With the manifold removed clean and inspect it as
follows:
(1) Disconnect the spark plug cables from the spark
plugs.
(2) Remove the alternator from the right cylinder
head.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust
manifold flanges.
(4) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads.
(5) Slide the manifolds off the studs and away from
the cylinder heads.
(6) Clean the exhaust manifolds in solvent. Blow
dry with compressed air.
(7) Inspect the manifolds for cracks and distortion.
Installation
NOTE: If studs came out with the nuts, install new
studs, applying sealer on the coarse thread ends. If
this precaution is not taken, water leaks may develop at the studs.
(1) Place the exhaust manifolds on the studs on the
cylinder heads and install the nuts. Tighten to 30
foot-pounds torque.
(2) Connect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifolds. Tighten the nuts to 40 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Install the alternator on the right cylinder head
and adjust the belt tension.
(4) Connect the spark plug cables to the spark
plugs.
Manifold
Heat Control
Valve
Inspect the operation of the manifold heat control
valve and apply Heat Control Valve Solvent, Part No.
1879318 to both ends of the valve shaft every six
months.
With the engine idling, accelerate the engine and
release quickly. The counterweight should respond by
moving clockwise approximately Vfe inch and return
to its normal position.
Removal
NY843
M O U N T I N G FLANGE
Fig. 5—Intake
Manifold
(All
Models)
(1) Loosen the counterweight clamp bolt (Figs. 6
and 7) and remove the counterweight, lock and stop
from the end of the shaft, exposing the thermostat.
(2) Unhook the thermostat from the pin and remove by sliding out of the valve shaft slot.
(3) If the valve shaft is frozen in the manifold, ap-
MyMopar.com
EXHAUST SYSTEM
11-5
EXHAUST M A N I F O L D
INSTALLED P O S I T I O N
VALVE
KR235B
Fig. 8—Positioning
Fig. 6—Manifold
Heat
Outlet
Control
Manifold
ply manifold heat control valve solvent, Part No.
1879318, and allow to stand several minutes. Loosen
by rotating the shaft back and forth until the shaft
turns easily.
Installation
413
Cu. In
Rear
Outlet
Manifold
the
Thermostat
Valve—Rear
(383,
Engines)
(1) Position shaft in extreme counterclockwise position (Fig. 6).
(2) Place a new thermostat in the shaft slot with
the outer end of the thermostat facing downward on
the right side. Wrap outer end of the thermostat
clockwise and engage under the stop pin (Fig. 6).
(3) Place the counterweight on the shaft with the
shield in the upper position and insert the lock in the
shaft slot (Fig. 6).
(4) Center the counterweight on the shaft and turn
the valve counterclockwise until the bumper passes
the stop pin.
(5) Press the counterweight on the shaft until it is
seated. Tighten the clamp bolt to 50 inch-pounds, using Torque Wrench C-3380.
(6) Make sure that the anti-rattle spring on the opposite end of the shaft is in place. Test operation of
the valve.
Installation—Center
Outlet
413 Cu. In. Engine)
Manifold
1383,
(1) Position shaft in extreme counterclockwise position (Fig. 7).
(2) Place a new thermostat in the shaft slot with
the outer end of the thermostat facing downward on
the left side. Wrap the outer end of the thermostat
counterclockwise and engage it under the stop pin
(Fig. 8).
(3) Place the counterweight on the shaft with the
shield in the upper position and insert the lock in the
shaft slot.
(4) Center the counterweight on the shaft and turn
the valve clockwise until the bumper passes the stop
pin (Fig. 9).
Jf
,
THERMOSTAT
C L A M P BOLT
KR236A
Fig. 7—Manifold
Heat
Outlet
Control
Manifold
Valve—Center
Fig. 9—Installing
the
Counterweight
MyMopar.com
11-6
EXHAUST SYSTEM
(5) Press the counterweight on the shaft until it is
seated. Tighten clamp bolt to 50 inch-pounds, using
Tool C-3380 Torque Wrench.
(6) Make sure the anti-rattle spring on the opposite
end of the shaft is in place. Test operation of the
valve.
(1) Remove the alternator.
(2) Remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold.
(3) Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine.
(4) Remove the counterweight, thermostat, shaft,
clips and anti-rattle spring.
(5) Cut the valve plate off of the shaft.
(6) Remove the shaft and press the bushings from
the manifold.
to turn freely, it will be necessary to hone the bushings.
(3) Pull the shaft out far enough to position the
valve plate on the shaft, then slide shaft into position
in both bushings.
(4) Align the hole in the valve plate with the hole
in the shaft and insert a drift into both holes to maintain correct positioning of the valve plate as it is being welded to the shaft.
(5) Remove the drift from the valve plate and
shaft.
(6) Install the new anti-rattle spring, shaft clips,
thermostat and counterweight assembly on the shaft.
(7) Install the manifold on the engine assembly.
(8) Using a new gasket, connect the exhaust pipe to
the manifold.
(9) Install the alternator and adjust the belt tension.
(10) Start the engine and test the operation of the
manifold heat control valve assembly.
Installation
Servicing
(1) Install the new bushings in the exhaust manifold.
(2) Position the shaft into both bushings and check
the shaft for freedom of turning. Should the shaft fail
Test the manifold heat control valve for proper operation during engine tune-up and apply Manifold
Heat Control Valve Solvent, Part No. 1879318, to
both ends of valve shaft.
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL V A L V E
REPLACEMENT
Removal
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•GROUP 1 4
FUEL
SYSTEM
CONTENTS
Page
Page
2
4
15
23
FUEL PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3
FUEL T A N K . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 4
THROTTLE L I N K A G E ADJUSTMENTS
39
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . In Rear of M a n u a l
Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of
the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and the installation of new
parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its
original designed performance.
When overhauling the carburetor, several items of
importance should be observed to assure a good job:
(1) A l l parts (except the choke diaphragm assembly) should be carefully cleaned i n a suitable solvent,
then inspected for damage or wear.
(2) Use air pressure only, to clean the various orifices and channels.
(3) Replace questionable parts with NEW ones.
When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it
is at times rather difficult to be sure they are satisfactory for further service. I t is therefore, recommended that in such case, NEW parts be installed.
(4) Always use a complete kit when overhauling
the carburetor. Using the code number stamped on
the air horn, adjacent to the fuel inlet, refer to the
parts catalog and order the correct repair kit for the
carburetor being worked on.
further advisable to rinse all parts in clean gasoline or kerosene to be certain no trace of moisture
remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other
mechanical means because the orifices may become
enlarged, making the fuel mixture too rich for
proper performance.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS . . . . . .
W W C 3 SIRIES CARBURETOR
B I D SERIES CARBURETOR . .
AFB SERIES CARBURETOR . . .
.......
.......
.......
.......
.
.
.
.
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.
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.
.
SERVICING THE CARBURETOR
C L E A N I N G CARBURETOR PARTS
The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. However,
there are other commercial solvents, (such as Metalclene) which may be used with satisfactory results.
The choke diaphragm can be damaged by solvents.
Avoid placing the diaphragm assembly in A N Y liquid.
Clean the external surfaces with a clean cloth or soft
wire brush. Shake dirt or other foreign material from
the stem side of the diaphragm. Depressing the diaphragm stem to the retracted position, will provide an
additional hole for the removal of dirt. Compressed
air can be used to remove loose dirt, but should not
be connected to the vacuum inlet fitting.
IMPORTANT: If the commercial solvent or cleaner
recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be
"HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be
blown from the passages with air pressure. It is
A U T O M A T I C C H O K E (Well Type)
To function properly, it is important that all parts
be clean and move freely. Other than an occasional
cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no
servicing. However, it is very important that the
choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic
coil spring housing and at the choke shaft. Move the
choke rod up and down to check for free movement
of the coil housing on the pivot. I f the unit binds, a
new unit should be installed. The well type choke is
serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to repair or
change the setting, unless authorized by service literature. Changes of the choke setting materially affect
summer temperature cold starting and seldom are a
satisfactory correction of driveability problems, which
are generally associated with carburetors or vacuum
diaphragms.
When installing the well type choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides
or bottom of the well. Any contact at this point will
affect choke operation.
Do not lubricate any of the choke parts or the control unit, since this causes dirt to accumulate, which
would result in a binding condition of the choke
mechanism.
The choke control unit is accurately adjusted when
originally assembled. Under normal service operation,
it is recommended not to change the setting, or to
disassemble the components for servicing. If however,
the setting has been disturbed, reset as follows:
Loosen locknut " A " and turn part with screwdriver
until index mark on disk " B " coincides with the correct mark on the bracket. Hold in this position with
screwdriver while tightening nut.
MyMopar.com
14-2
CARBURETOR—DIAGNOSIS-
PART 1
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
P O O R IDLING
Possible C a u s e
(a) Idle air bleed carbonized or of incorrect size.
Correction
(a) Disassemble the
carburetor.
Then, use com-
pressed air to clear idle bleed after soaking it
in a suitable solvent.
(b) Idle discharged holes plugged or gummed.
(b) Disassemble the carburetor. Then, use compressed air to clear idle discharge holes after
soaking the
main and throttle bodies in
a
suitable solvent.
(c) Throttle body carbonized or worn throttle shaft,
(c) Disassemble the carburetor. Check the throttle
valve
shaft for
wear.
If excessive w e a r
is
apparent, replace the throttle body assembly.
(d) Damaged or worn idle mixture needle.
(d) Replace the worn or damaged idle needle. A d -
(e) Low g r a d e fuel or incorrect float level.
(e) Test the fuel level in the carburetor. Adjust a s
(f)
(f) Tighten the main body to throttle body screws
just the air mixture.
necessary to obtain the correct float level.
Loose main body to throttle body screws.
securely to prevent air leaks and cracked housings.
(g) Worn or corroded needle valve and seat.
(g) C l e a n and inspect the needle valve and seat.
If found to be in questionable condition, replace assembly. Then, test fuel pump pressure.
Refer to Specifications for correct fuel
pump
pressure.
POOR ACCELERATION
(h) Incorrect timing.
(h) Reset timing.
(a) Accelerator pump piston (or plunger) leather
(a) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace accelera-
too hard, worn, or loose on stem.
tor pump assembly if Feather is hard, cracked
or worn. Test follow-up spring for compression.
(b) Faulty accelerator pump discharge ball.
(b) Disassemble the carburetor.
Use compressed
air to clean the discharge nozzle and channels
after soaking the main body in a suitable solvent. Test the fuel pump capacity.
(c) Faulty accelerator pump inlet check ball.
(c)
Disassemble the carburetor. Check the accelerator pump inlet check ball for poor seat or
release. If part is faulty, replace.
(d) Incorrect fuel or float level.
(d) Test the fuel or float level in the carburetor.
Adjust as necessary to obtain the correct float
level.
(e) Worn accelerator pump a n d throttle linkage.
(e) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace the worn
accelerator pump
and
throttle linkage
and
measure for the correct position.
(f)
Manifold heat valve sticking.
(f) Free up manifold heat control valve; using recommended solvent.
CARBURETOR F L O O D S
OR LEAKS
(g) No power mixture.
(g) Test power piston operation.
(h) Incorrect timing.
(h) Reset timing.
(a) Cracked body.
(a) Disassemble
the
carburetor.
Replace
the
cracked body. Make sure main to throttle body
screws are tight.
MyMopar.com
-CARBURETOR—DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Possible C a u s e
14-3
Correction
(b) Faulty body gaskets.
(b) Disassemble the
carburetor.
R e p l a c e the
de-
fective gaskets a n d test for l e a k a g e . Be sure
the screws a r e tightened securely.
(c) High float level.
(c) Test the fuel level in the carburetor. M a k e the
necessary adjustment
to obtain correct float
level.
(d) W o r n needle valve a n d seat.
(d) C l e a n a n d inspect the needle valve a n d seat.
If found to be in a questionable condition, rep l a c e the complete assembly a n d test the fuel
pump pressure. Refer to Specifications for correct fuel pump pressure.
(e) Excessive fuel pump pressure.
(e) Test the fuel pump pressure. If the pressure is
in excess of recommended
pressure (refer to
Specifications), replace fuel pump.
POOR PERFORMANCE
(a) Restricted air cleaner.
(a) Remove a n d clean the air c l e a n e r .
MIXTURE T O O RICH
(b) Leaking float.
(b) Disassemble the carburetor.
Replace
leaking
float. Test the float level a n d correct a s necessary, to the proper level.
(c) High float level.
(c) Adjust the float level as necessary to secure the
(d) Excessive fuel pump pressure.
(d) Test the fuel pump pressure. Refer to specifica-
proper level.
tions for recommended pressure. If pressure is
in excess of recommended pressure, replace the
fuel pump assembly.
(e) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace the worn
(e) W o r n metering jet.
metering jet, using a new jet of the correct size
a n d type.
POOR COLD ENGINE
(a) Throttle must be o p e n e d to free choke system.
STARTING INCORRECT
Best position
PROCEDURE
conditions is Vz open.
C H O K E V A L V E FAILS
TO CLOSE
for all temperatures
(a) Choke thermostat
adjustment
and
(a) Instruct owner.
all
leaner than
(a) Adjust.
specified.
(b) Choke thermostat
corroded
cracked a n d distorted
such that it has
(b) Replace assembly.
lean.
(c) Choke linkage, shaft or related parts corroded,
(c) Repair, clean or replace.
bent or dirty such that the system is not entirely
free to
move from the open to the
closed
position.
(d) Choke valve improperly seated.
(d) Reseat valve.
(e) Air cleaner interferes with choke shaft or
(e) Rotate
(f) Air cleaner gasket interferes with choke valve or
cleaner
to
correct
position,
instruct
owner.
linkage.
(f)
Reinstall gasket properly.
linkage.
(g) Spring staging spring distorted or missing.
(g) Replace or install new spring.
L O W ENGINE OUTPUT
(a) Engine lubricating oil of incorrect viscosity.
(a) Recommend 5 W - 2 0 .
( 1 0 ° F or
(b) V a l v e lash incorrect.
(b) Readjust.
(c) Choke thermostat adjustment incorrect, rich.
(c) Adjust to correct setting.
lower)
E N G I N E R U N S L E A N , FIRST H A L F M I L E
C H O K E LEAN
(a) Review items under (Poor Starting).
(a) S e e " C h o k e V a l v e Fails to C l o s e . "
(b) Diaphragm adjustment lean.
(b) Readjust to specification.
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14-4
CARBURETOR—WWC3Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
E N G I N E RUNS L E A N AFTER H A L F MILE
E N G I N E HEAT
(a) Heat valve stuck open.
(a) Free with solvent.
INSUFFICIENT
(b) Heat valve thermostat distorted.
(b) Replace thermostat.
(c) Heat valve failed within exhaust. See engine
(c) Replace heat valve.
section for proper diagnosis.
(d) Water temperature subnormal.
(d) Check thermostat.
CARBURETOR MIX-
(a) Air leak bypassing the carburetor.
(a) Repair.
TURES LEAN
(b) Carburetor has economy metering system.
(b) Inform customer.
E N G I N E RUNS E X C E S S I V E L Y RICH AFTER C O L D START
C H O K E SYSTEM RICH
(a) Choke thermostat adjustment richer than
(a) Correct.
specified.
(b) Choke thermostat distorted rich by overheating,
(b) Replace, since this problem can be corrected
(c) Choke vacuum diaphragm inoperative or
(c) Correct or replace.
by use of proper choke assembly.
misadjusted.
CARBURETOR RICH
(d) Choke vacuum passage blocked or leaking.
(d) Correct.
(a) Incorrect gasket or gasket installation between
(a) Replace or correct,
carburetor and intake
manifold.
E X C E S S I V E STALLS AFTER C O L D START
C H O K E SYSTEM LEAN
(a) Review items under "Poor Starting-Choke
Valve Fails to C l o s e /
E N G I N E OUTPUT L O W
CARBURETOR L E A N
7
(b) Choke vacuum diaphragm adjustment lean.
(b) Adjust to Specification.
(a) Fast Idle speed low.
(a) Adjust to Specification.
(b) Fast idle cam position adjustment incorrect.
(b) Adjust to Specification.
(c) Engine lubrication oil of incorrect viscosity.
(c) Recommend 5W-20.
(d) Incorrect timing.
(d) Reset timing.
(a) Curb idle set very lean.
(a) Adjust.
(b) Air leak bypassing the carburetor.
(b) Repair.
PART
2
WWC3 SERIES STROMBIRG
CARBURETOR
Description
The WWC3 Series Stromberg carburetor is a dual
throat downdraft type, with each throat having its
own idle system, main metering system and throttle
valve. The idle and main metering systems are supplemented by the float system, the accelerating sys-
tem and the power system.
The WWC3 Series carburetor incorporates an idle
system vent, operated from the throttle linkage, a
double venturi cluster which in addition to the small
venturi also includes the discharge nozzles, the main
discharge tubes and the idle in a single assembly.
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'CARBURETOR—WWC3
14-5
SERVICE PROCEDURES
DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to (Figs. 1 and 2), then proceed as follows:
(1) Install the four elevating legs, Tool T109-287S
in the mounting flange holes i n the throttle body.
These legs are used to protect the throttle valves
from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.
(2) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod
in the center of the pump arm. Remove rod from slot
and disengage from the throttle lever.
(3) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the fast idle
rod in the fast idle cam. Disengage the rod from cam,
then rotate the rod to disengage from choke lever.
(4) Remove the three short air horn attaching
screws, then remove the two long air horn attaching
screws. Install the two short screws through the main
body into the throttle body to hold the bodies together. (Refer to Fig. 3.)
(5) Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor air horn and the vacuum diaphragm.
(6) Remove the clip from the choke operating
link and disengage the link from the diaphragm
ACCELERATOR
L
V A C U U M HOSE
E
V
CHOKE OPERATING
SPRING STAGED
C H O K E SHAFT
LEVER
E
CHOKE
FAST IDLE SPEED
A D J U S T I N G SCREW
PUMP
NK418
R
\
L I N K " E " CLIP
CHOKE
Fig. 2—Carburetor
\
VALVE
Assembly
WWC-3-255 (Left
B O W L VENT
VALVE
WWC-3-254 or
Side)
plunger (stem) and the choke lever. (Refer to Fig. 1.)
(7) Remove the remaining air horn attaching
screws, then lift the air horn straight up and away
from main body, as shown in (Fig. 3).
GASKET
CHOKE
H U B LEVER*'"
VACUUM
DIAPHRAGM
CLOSED
CRANKCASE
VENT
FITTING
AIR
-ACCELERATOR
HORN
PUMP
MAIN
THROTTLE
BODY
IDLE MIXTURE S C R E W ( 2 )
FUEL INLET
DISTRIBUTOR V A C U U M
A D V A N C E TUBE
FITTING
!
/
NK417
1—Carburetor
Assembly
or WWC3-255 (Right
*
FITTING
E L E V A T I N G LEGS (SET O F 4 )
Fig.
PLUNGER
BODY
S H O R T A I R H O R N {£» Z
S C R E W S T O BE . T - ^ S L ,
INSTALLED HERE
??
'
POWER
PISTON
STEM
| *
." ,
NK419
WWC3-254
Side)
Fig.
3 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
the Air
Horn
MyMopar.com
14-6
CARBURETOR—WWC3
- ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER
DISCHARGE O R I F I C E S ^
GASKEYs
•PUMP SPRING
Ac
*•?
/
AIR H O R N
PUMP A R M H O O K
/
POWER PISTON S T E M
^
i
-C^
Xfi«*J?
ATTACHING
SCREWS (SHORT)
NK420!
Fig. 4—Removing or Installing the
Accelerator
Disassembling
Pump
1 ... ' '
Plunger
the Air Ham
as a special item. A liquid cleaner may damage the
diaphragm material.
(4) Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in
the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the beary
/
O
P
E
N
E
N
D
W
R
E
N
C
i
I
'
'!
Pig. 6 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
(1) Disengage the accelerator pump plunger, from
the pump arm hook by tilting down and out from
under hook, as shown in (Fig. 4). Remove the compression spring.
Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of
clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from
drying out.
(2) Remove the vacuum power piston from the air
horn, using an open end wrench and wood block, as
shown in (Fig. 5). (Exert sufficient pressure on end of
wrench to force piston out of its well in air horn. This
assembly is staked in the air horn and care should
be used at removal.) Discard the air horn gasket.
(3) Remove the choke vacuum diaphragm and
bracket assembly and place to one side to be cleaned
^ • • ^
l
NK422
I-"
the Venturi
Cluster
ing area or appears to be gummed from deposits in
the air horn, a thorough cleaning will be required.
Main
Body
(1) Remove the float fulcrum pin spring, then remove the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket.
(2) Slide the float baffle up out of its grooves, then
remove the float and fulcrum pin.
(3) Remove the venturi cluster attaching screws,
then remove the venturi cluster gasket, as shown in
(Fig. 6). Discard the gasket.
(4) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out
the discharge check ball from the discharge passage,
refer to (Fig. 6), and the accelerator pump inlet check
ball from the pump well.
(5) Using T109-73S, remove the power by-pass jet
and gasket, as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Using Tool T109-173, remove the two main metering jets, as shown in (Figs. 7 or 8).
(7) Remove the two air horn screws, used to hold
the main and throttle bodies together. Separate the
throttle and main bodies, and discard the gasket.
H
PISTON RETAINER STAKED I N
AIR H O R N
M A I N METERING
*
\TSP^/
NK423
CHOKE D I A P H R A G M '
A T T A C H I N G SCREWS
Fig. 5—Removing
the Vacuum
NK421
Power
Piston
Fig. 7—-Removing
or installing
By-Pass
the
Power
Jet
MyMopar.com
-CARBURETOR—WWC3
Fig. 8—Removing
or installing
Metering
Throttle
the
Main
Jets
Fig.
Body
(1) Unscrew and remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body.
(2) The carburetor now has been disassembled into
three units, namely, the air horn, main body and
throttle body and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.
It is usually not advisable t o remove the throttle
shaft or valves unless wear o r damage necessitates
installation of new parts. T o install new valves or
throttle shaft, refer to Inspection and Reassembly
paragraph. Normal throttle shaft clearance is .005
inch. If wear is over .010 inch, install new shaft.
INSPECTION A N D ASSEMBLY
Throttle
14-7
Body
(1) Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in
the throttle body. I f wear is extreme, it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced, rather than
installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.
10—Tfcfoffft Body (Exploded View!
During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer ports and the spark advance control ports to the
valves are carefully established for one particular assembly. See (Fig. 9).
If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn
throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would
be obtained. Changing the port relationship would
adversely affect normal car operation between the
speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. However, i f i t
has been determined that a new shaft or valves are
to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions:
To install a new throttle shaft or valves, refer to
(Fig. 10), then proceed as follows:
(2) Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced i n
the same bore from whence removed (if replacing
throttle shaft only).
(3) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves
to the shaft. Slide the valves out of shaft and bore.
CAUTION: These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used at removal so as
not to break the screws in the shaft.
Remove the staking with a file.
(4) Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the
throttle body.
(5) Install the new throttle shaft and lever i n the
throttle body. The idle speed adjusting screw must
be backed off when seating the valves in tho following operation.
Fig. 9 — P o r t s In Relation
to Throttle
Valves
(6) Slide the valves down into position. Install new
screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves i n place
with the fingers pressing on the high side of valves.
(7) Tap the valve lightly with a screwdriver to seat
in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by
squeezing with pliers.
MyMopar.com
14-8
CARBURETOR—WWC3
Fig. 12—Installing Accelerator
Check Ball
Pump Inlet
(3) Install the power by-pass jet and new gasket.
Tighten securely, using Tool 73598. Refer to (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the accelerator pump inlet check ball ( /
inch) in the pump well, as shown in (Fig. 12).
(5) Install the accelerator pump discharge check
ball (Vb inch) in the discharge passage, as shown in
Fig. 13.
3
i6
(8) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws
and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion
must be straight and smooth.) If the tapered portion
is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting
screw should be installed to insure having correct idle
mixture control.
Idle Mixer
Screw
Adjustment
Turn the screws lightly against their seats, then
back off one and a half turns for an approximate setting.
Main
Body
To assemble the main body, refer to (Fig. 11), then
proceed as follows:
(1) Place a new gasket on the throttle body, then
install main body. Install two short screws to secure.
(2) Install the main metering jets in the main body.
Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-173. Refer to
(Fig. 8).
DRIVE PLUGS
ATTACHING
Accelerator Pump Test
(1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl approximately V% inch deep. Remove the accelerator
pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and slide
down in its well. Raise the plunger and press lightly
in the plunger shaft to expel the air from the pump
passage.
(2) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly down on its seat. Raise the
pump plunger and press downward. No fuel should be
emitted from either the intake or discharge passage,
as shown in (Fig. 14).
T
• BRASS ROD
V
SCREWS
POWER BY-PASS JET
GASKET
VENTURI CLUSTER
FULCRUM PIN
mMH
~ *
SPRING
FUEL INLET NEEDLE
VALVE SEAT A N D GASKEJ
FLOAT BAFFLE
FULCRUM PIN
J\
ACCELERATOR
PUMP PLUNGER
NO FUEL TO BE
EMITTED FROM THE
PUMP INTAKE PASSAGE
INLET CHECK BALL
(PUMP)
^ APPROX. 1/2 INCH OF FUEL
IN THE BOWL
M A I N BODY
FLOAT
NO FUEL TO BE EMITTED PAST
THE DISCHARGE CHECK BALL
M A I N METERING JETS
PASSAGE PLUGS
Body (Disassembled
NK428
N Y 343
Fig. 14—Testing
Fig. 11—Main
N
View)
Accelerator
and Inlet Check
Pump
Discharge
Balls
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CARBURETOR—WWC3
(3) I f any fuel does emit from either the intake or
discharge passages, it indicates the presence of
dirt or an imperfect seat. The passages should be recleaned and then thoroughly blown out with compressed air. Examine the ball seat for signs of damage
that would not allow the check ball to seat properly.
(4) Reinstall the check ball and test again. I f still
leaking, place a piece of drill rod down on the check
ball and rap sharply with a hammer. Remove the old
check ball and install a new one. Then retest. (This
operation forms a new ball seat in the carburetor
casting.)
(5) Install the venturi cluster gasket, then slide the
venturi cluster down into position. Install attaching
screws and tighten securely. (Refer to Fig. 6.)
Again depress the accelerator plunger. A clear
straight stream should emit from each jet orifice. I f
the streams are not identical (if either one is restricted
or diverted), remove venturi cluster and reclean.
After test, pour gasoline from the bowl and remove the pump plunger.
(6) Check the float for leak or damage. I f satisfactory for further service, install in position in the
bowl.
(7) Assemble the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and
gasket, then insert in the main body. Tighten securely. (If the needle valve is ridged or grooved, or badly
worn, a new inlet needle valve assembly should be
installed.)
Measuring
Float
Height
The carburetor is equipped with a synthetic rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle.
(1) Invert the main body so that the weight of the
floats only is forcing the needle against the seat. Be
sure hinge pin does not drop out of the float hinge.
Hold down with the fulcrum pin spring.
(2) Using Tool 73725 or a " T " scale, measure the
float level, as shown in (Fig. 15). There should be /
inch from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown
of the float at the center.
If an adjustment is necessary, remove the float
and the fulcrum spring. Bend the lip of the float lever either in or out until the correct setting has been
obtained.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to change the setting
F i g . 1 5 — M e a s u r i n g the Float
14-9
Setting
(3) Install the float, then slide the float baffle down
into position. Install the fulcrum pin spring.
Assembling
the Air
Horn
To assemble the air horn, refer to (Fig. 16), then
proceed as follows:
(1) Slide the choke shaft and lever into the air horn
with the choke lever pointing down and away from air
horn. Slide the choke valve down into the slot in
shaft.
(2) Hold the choke valve closed, and install new
screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Holding the valve in the
closed position, tap gently with a screwdriver, to center and locate the valve.
(3) Tighten attaching screws securely, then stake
by squeezing with pliers. Reinstall the fast idle lever
and secure with lockwasher and nut.
(4) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the
jar of gasoline. Check the leather. I f the leather is
hard, cracked, or worn, install a new pump plunger.
(Be sure to flex the leather several times before installing plunger in air horn.)
5
3 2
without removing the float, as the synthetic rubber
tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false
setting, which will affect correct level of fuel in
the bowl.
It is important that the float lip is perpendicular to
the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees
away from the needle when the float is set correctly.
Do not bend float lip by forcing float, use Tool
73605.
Fig.
7 6 — A i r Horn (Disassembled
View)
MyMopar.com
14-10
CARBURETOR—WWC3
(5) Slide the compression spring over plunger shaft,
then slide plunger over hook and into position. Refer
to (Fig. 4).
(6) Install a new air horn gasket, then install the
vacuum power piston in air horn. Lock in position by
prick punching on the air horn rim. Compress the
piston plunger to be sure no binding exists. If the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder smooth operation, install a new piston assembly.
(7) Install the air horn assembly on the main body,
guiding the pump plunger into its well. (Be sure the
leather does not curl or fold back.) Install retaining
screws and tighten securely. (Refer to Fig. 2.) The
choke valve must be held partially closed while installing the air horn.
(8) Remove the two short screws holding the main
body and throttle body together, refer to (Fig. 3), and
install the air horn. Reinstall the two long screws and
tighten securely.
(9) Install the fast idle rod and secure with hairpin
clip.
(10) Install the pump rod and secure with hairpin
clip. (Be sure rod is in the center slot of arm, refer
to Fig. 1.) Work the accelerator pump plunger several
times to be sure it operates smoothly.
Choke Vacuum
Diaphragm
Inspect the diaphragm vacuum fitting to be sure
that the passage is not plugged with foreign material.
Leak check the diaphragm to determine if it has internal leaks. To do this, first depress the stem, then
place a finger over the fitting to seal the opening. Release the stem. If the stem moves more than Vie inch
in 10 seconds, the leakage is excessive and the assembly must be replaced.
Install the diaphragm assembly on the air horn as
follows:
(1) Assemble to the air horn and tighten the attaching screws securely.
(2) Install the choke operating link in position between the diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke
lever. Install clip to secure. Be sure the link is on
Accelerator Pump Travel
Bowl Vent Valve Setting
Fast Idle Speed
Adjustment
and Cam Position
The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be
made on the vehicle, as described in the Fast Idle
Speed Adjustment (On the Car) Paragraph. However,
the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be made
on the bench. This adjustment is important to assure
that the speeds of each step of the cam, occur at the
proper time during engine warm-up.
To make the fast idle cam position adjustment refer to (Fig. 17), then proceed as follows:
(1) With the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacting the step on the fast idle cam shown in (Fig.
17), move the choke valve toward the closed position
with light pressure. Insert a NO. 41 drill or gauge
T109-125 (Auto. Transmission or Manual Trans.) between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.
(2) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight
drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being
removed.
(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle
rod at the upper angle, using Tool T109-213, until the
correct valve opening has been obtained.
Vacuum Kick Adjustment—(This test can be made
ON or OFF the vehicle.)
The choke diaphragm adjustment controls the fuel
delivery while the engine is running. It positions the
choke valve within the airhorn by action of the linkage between the choke shaft and the diaphragm. The
diaphragm must be energized to measure the vacuum
kick adjustment. Use either a distributor test machine with a vacuum source, or vacuum supplied by
another vehicle.
the proper side of the wire spring. See (Fig. 1).
(3) Inspect the rubber hose for cracks before placing
it on the correct carburetor fitting. Refer to (Fig. 2).
Do not connect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm
fitting until after the vacuum kick adjustment has been
made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
It is very important that the following adjustments
be made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the
sequence listed, namely:
Fast Idle Cam Position Setting
Vacuum Kick Adjustment
Unloader Adjustment (wide open kick)
F i g . 17~Past
Idle Com Position
Adjustment
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-CARBURETOR—WWC3
(1) With the engine Not running, open the throttle
valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be
moved to the closed position.
(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and connect the hose from the vacuum supply, as shown in (Fig. 18). (A minimum of 10 inches of
mercury (HG) will be required.)
(3) Insert a NO. 17 drill or gauge T109-205 (Manual Trans.) or a NO. 35 drill (Auto. Trans.) between
the choke valve and the wall of the air horn. Refer to
(Fig. 18). Apply sufficient closing pressure on the
choke shaft lever to- provide the smallest opening possible, without distortion of the diaphragm link. Note
that the link must deflect a wire spring before it
reaches the end of travel within the lever slot. The
link must travel to the end of the slot for proper measurement of the kick adjustment.
(4) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag
is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.
The adjustment of this opening will require the removal of the choke operating link.
CAUTION: Damage to the diaphragm and the choke
lever slot can result, if the link is not removed for
the bending operation,
(5) Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the choke lever, then disengage the
link from the diaphragm stem. (The best bending results will be obtained by using a vise and a pair of
pliers.)
(6) Bend the choke operating link at the angle to
provide the correct choke valve opening.
CAUTION: A correction in the length of the link of
. 0 1 0 inch, w i l l result in a change of . 0 1 0 inch in
the choke valve opening.
As an example, if the choke valve opening is .010
inch in error, the correction in the link length would
be .010 inch.
, CHOKE OPERATING LINK
•vj
n
14-11
^
.
Fig. 19—-Choke Operating
Link
Measurement
A 2" micrometer will be helpful in establishing the
original length of the link, as shown in (Fig. 19), before completing the adjustment.
(7) Install the choke operating link and recheck the
choke valve opening, using a gauge or drill. Refer to
(Fig. 18).
Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and
make the following check:
(8) With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm, some
clearance should exist between the choke operating
link and the choke lever slot, in both the open and
closed choke valve positions, as shown in (Fig. 20).
NOTE: This. clearance is necessary to "allow the
choke valve to close for starting as well as fully
open after the engine reaches the normal operating
temperature.
If a clearance does not exist in both of these positions, a recheck of the operating link adjustment
should be made.
NOTE: Free movement ©f the choke valve between
the closed and open positions is very necessary.
This free movement should also exist between the
kick and the open choke valve positions with the engine running. I f binding does exist, the choke operating link has been improperly bent and should be corrected.
CHOKE VALVE
, WIDE OPEN
CLEARANCE
^SPECIAL G A U G : CR D^ILL
AT W ! D ' : S T CHOXE OPENING
MINIMUM
OF
10
INCHES
OF
VACUUM
REQUIRED O N D I A P H R A G M
-
&
/
CLEARANCE
^ T O
CLOSING PRESSURE APPLIED-'
TO CHOKE HUB LEVER
Fig.
IB—Checking
the Vacuum
VACUUM
SOURCE
NK431
Kick
Setting
Fig.
20—Choke
Operating
Link
Clearances
MyMopar.com
14-12
CARBURETOR—WWC3
SPECIAL G A U G E O R DRILL A T W I D E S T
CHOKE O P E N I N G
LIGHT C L O S I N G PRESSURE
A G A I N S T CHOKE VALVE
G A U G E INSERTED
B O W L VENT .
BETWEEN
V A L V E A N D SEAT
VALVE
\ V '
. j . .
->
.-
CHOKE VALVE W I D E O P E N
' " "
v
f
t
Y
THROTTLE CLOSED
(AT CURB IDLE P O S I T I O N )
\
FAST IDLE C A M
THROTTLE LEVER
HELD I N W I D E
B O W L V E N T LEVER
(BEND A T THIS P O I N T )
F i g . 2 3 — C h e c k i n g the B o w / V e n f V a / v e
BEND T A N G AT
THIS P O I N T
NK436
Opening
NK434
F i g . 2 1 — C h o k e Unloader
(Wide
Unloaded
,
Open
Adjustment
(Wide
should be no bind throughout the entire travel of
the choke mechanism.
Adjustment
Kick)
Accelerator
Open Kick)
To make the unloaded adjustment, refer to (Fig.
21), then proceed as follows:
(1) Lightly hold the choke valve closed, then open
the throttle valves to the wide open position. The
choke valve should open sufficiently to allow a /
inch drill or gauge T109-32 to be inserted between the
choke valve and the wall of the air horn as shown.
(2) To adjust, bend the tang on the throttle lever,
using Tool T109-214 until correct opening has been
obtained.
(3) Hold the choke valve open and then open and
close the throttle valves. Failure to obtain full throttle operation indicates improper assembly or adjustment of the choke mechanism.
(4) With the throttle valves held in an open position, the choke valve should fall open freely. There
1 5
6 4
Pump
Travel
To check the accelerator pump travel, refer to
(Fig. 22), then proceed as follows:
(1) With the throttle valves fully closed, measure
the pump travel from the fully closed to the fully
open throttle.
(2) This travel should be / inch Manual Trans,
and / i inch Auto. Trans, as shown.
(3) If a*n adjustment is necessary, bend the pump
rod at the point shown, using Tool T109-213, until
correct travel has been obtained.
n
3 2
7
6
Bowl
Vent Valve
Setting
To make the bowl vent valve setting, refer to (Fig.
23), then proceed as follows:
This setting is made after the pump travel setting.
(1) With the throttle valves at curb idle, there
should be j inch clearance between the bowl vent
valve and the air horn, when measured (at the center of the vent valve and the seat) with a gauge or
drill shank.
(2) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the bowl
vent lever, using Tool T109-214, until correct opening has been obtained.
1
1Q
NOTE: Any adjustment to the accelerator pump
setting, means that the bowl vent must be readjusted.
Idle Speed
ROD A S
REQUIRED
(AT A N G L E )
'* ' '
• ^
,
v
'\
4
"
-
'
1
"
F i g . 2 2 — A c c e l e r a t o r Pump
£
Travel
NK435
Adjustment
The idle speed adjustment is made after the carburetor has been installed on the engine.
For the best results, it is recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment.
(1) Turn the idle speed screw in or out to obtain
MyMopar.com
•CARBURETOR—WWC3
500 rpm. (On vehicles with air conditioning, set the
idle speed at 500 rpm, with air conditioning ON.) Be
sure the choke valve is fully open and that the fast
idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle
cam (engine off fast idle).
(2) Turn each idle mixture screw in or out until
smooth idle has been obtained.
(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the idle speed screw.
(4) Repeat the idle mixture screw adjustment.
Fast Idle Speed
Adjustment*
(On the Vehicle)
To set the fast idle speed on the vehicle, connect a
tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed
and proceed as follows:
(1) With the engine running and the transmission
in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.
(2) Close the choke valve about 20 degrees then
allow the throttle to close. Return the choke valve to
the open position.
(3) The fast idle speed adjusting screw should be
contacting the lowest step on the fast idle cam, as
shown in (Fig. 24).
(4) With the engine warmed-up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle speed adjusting screw in or out to secure 700 r.p.m. (Automatic
Transmission) or 700 r.p.m. (Manual Transmission).
Reposition the cam and throttle after every screw
adjustment to apply normal throttle closing torque.
(*After Approx. 500 Miles) (If Necessary).
Measuring
the Float
Setting
Fuel
(On the
Vehicle)
Level
or
14-13
short screw through main body flange. Securely tighten. Remove the air horn as follows:
(1) Remove the spring clip and disconnect the
choke operating rod.
(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disconnect the fast
idle rod.
(3) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod
in the center slot of the pump arm. Disconnect the
pump rod.
(4) Remove the remaining two long screws and lift
off the air horn.
Check the float setting as follows:
(5) Seat the float fulcrum pin by pressing finger
against the fulcrum pin spring.
There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise
the float so that the lip bears firmly against the needle.
Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly depressing the float. If the pressure in the line is insufficient
to force additional fuel into the bowl, add the necessary fuel from a clean container.
CAUTION: Since the manifolds may be hot, it is
dangerous to spill onto these surfaces. Therefore,
take the necessary precautions to avoid spillage.
(6) With only the pressure from the buoyant float
holding the lip against the inlet needle, check the float
setting, using Tool 73725 or " T " scale. There should
be / inch from the surface of the bowl (gasket removed) to the top of the float at the center.
If an adjustment is necessary, hold the float on the
bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward or
away from the needle, using Tool 73605. Recheck the
/ inch setting again, then repeat the lip bending operation as required.
5
3 2
5
32
Remove the three short air horn to main body attaching screws. Then remove one long air horn to
throttle body screw next to fuel bowl and assemble
short screw through main body flange and thread into
the throttle body. Remove long screw from side away
from fuel bowl and on opposite side and assemble
\ CHOKE
VALVE
WIDE
CAUTION: When bending the float lip, do not allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber
tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false
setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the
bowl. After being compressed, the rubber tip is very
slow to recover its original shape.
OPEN,
PRESSURE
APPLIED
T O
HUB
LEVER
CHOKE
—
-A
VALVE
—
FULLY
SHAFT
CLOSED
LEVER
WBlm
FAST
IDIF
*
FAST
CAM
IDLE
SPEED
SPEED
SCREW
STEP
O N
SLOWEST
O F THE C A M
N
K
4
3
7
BEND
FOR
HUB LEVER
T A N G
ADJUSTMENT
NK438
Fig. 24—Fasi
Idle Speed
(on the
Engine)
Adjustment
Fig. 25—Spring
Staged
Choke
Clearance
MyMopar.com
14-14
CAIiUIETOR—WWC3
It is very important that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.
(7) Reassemble the air horn.
Spring
Staged
Choke
temperatures.
To check the spring staged choke for correct operating clearance, refer to (Fig. 25), then proceed as follows:
(1) Push on the hub lever with the finger, at the
closed choke position. A small opening should exist
between the shaft and the hub levers, as shown in (Fig.
25).
(2) Using a drill or gauge, measure the opening.
The opening should be from .010 to .040 inches.
(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the hub lever tang until the correct opening has been obtained.
Adjustment
The new spring staged choke, shown in (Fig. 25) is
a device incorporated in the choke mechanism which
limits the choke blade closing torque when cranking
the engine at temperatures below zero. Thus the
spring staging of the choke is a better match for the
engine's starting mixture requirements at the low
CHOKE OPERATING
LINK
ACCELERATOR
PUMP ROCKER ARM
BOWL VENT
OPERATING
LEVER
STAGING
SPRING
CHOKE VALVE
FAST IDLE
CAM
CARBURETOR
IDENTIFICATION
TAG
FAST IDLE
OPERATING LEVER
AIR HORN
BOWL
VENT
VALVE
FAST IDLE v
SPEED
X
ADJUSTING
^
SCREW
J\
FUEL INLET
NEEDLE
VALVE
AND SEAT
SPRING
STAGE
SHAFT
LEVER
FAST IDLE SPEED
ADJUSTING SCREW
THROTTLE LEVER
SPRING
STAGE
HUB LEVER
FAST IDLE
CONNECTOR ROD
ACCELERATOR
PUMP ROD
DISTRIBUTOR
VACUUM
ADVANCE
TUBE FITTING
CURB IDLE SPEED
ADJUSTING SCREW
UNLOADER
TANG
CLOSED CRANKCASE VENT
TUBE FITTING
ELEVATOR LEGS
(SET OF 4)
IDLE MIXTURE
SCREW ( 2 )
THROTTLE LEVER
CHOKE
VACUUM
DIAPHRAGM
VACUUM
DIAPHRAGM
HOSE
NK611
Fig. 1—Carburetor
Assembly
(BBD-3849S
and
BBD-3850S)
MyMopar.com
CARBURE T OR—BB D
PART
14-15
3
BBD S E R I E S CARBURETORS
Description
The Ball and Ball carburetor is of the dual downdraft type. Each throat has its own throttle valve,
idle and main metering systems and are supplemented
by the float, accelerating and power systems.
On each BBD series carburetor, the model number
SERVICE
PROCEDURES
DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhauling, refer to (Fig. 1), then proceed as follows:
(1) Insert three Tool T-109-287S and one Tool
T109-288S elevating legs through the carburetor throttle body stud holes. (These tools are used to protect
the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.)
(2) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the fast
idle connector rod from the throttle and fast idle levers.
(3) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the accelerator rod from the throttle lever and the pump
rocker arm.
(4) Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor throttle body fitting and the vacuum diaphragm.
(5) Remove the clip from the choke operating link
and disengage the link from the diaphragm plunger
and the choke lever. Refer to (Fig. 1).
(6) Remove the vacuum diaphragm and bracket assembly and place to one side, to be cleaned as a
special item.
Fig. 2 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Piston
the
Step-Up
is stamped on metal tag attached to air horn. Do not
remove or destroy this tag, as it is the only means
provided for carburetor model identification. Before
attempting to repair or overhaul carburetor, refer to
model number and secure a repair kit for number
indicated on tag.
NOTE: A liquid cleaner may damage the diaphragm
material.
(7) Remove the air horn retaining screws and lift
air horn straight up and away from the main body.
Discard the gasket (2 screws recessed).
(8) Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from
the accelerator pump arm by pushing up on bottom
of plunger and sliding plunger shaft off hook. Slide
plunger out of air horn and remove the compression
spring and seat.
If the old plunger can be used again or i f a new
plunger is to be installed, place the plunger in a jar of
clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from
drying out.
(9) Remove the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and
gasket from the main body.
(10) Lift out the float fulcrum pin retainer, and
lift out the floats and fulcrum pin.
(11) Remove the step-up piston and retaining screw
and slide the step-up piston and rods out of well,
as shown in (Fig. 2). Lift out the step-up piston spring.
Remove the step-up piston gasket from the bottom of
Fig.
3—Removing
Main
or Installing
Metering
Jets
the
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14-16
CARBURETOR—BBD
the well.
(12) Remove the main metering jets as shown in
(Fig. 3).
(13) Remove the venturi cluster screws, then lift
the venturi cluster and gaskets up and away from the
main body, as shown in (Fig. 4). Discard the gaskets.
IDLE T R A N S F E R
PCRTS
SPARK
Do not remove the idle orifice tubes or the main
vent tubes from the cluster. They can be cleaned in a
solvent and dried with compressed air.
(14) Invert the carburetor and drop out the accelerator pump discharge check ball and the intake check
ball. (The intake check ball is the largest.)
(15) Remove the idle mixture adjusting screws and
springs from the throttle body.
(16) Remove the screws that attach the throttle
body to the main body. Separate the bodies and discard the gasket.
The carburetor now has been disassembled into
three sub-assemblies, the air horn, main body and
throttle body and the components of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.
It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle
shaft or valves from the throttle body, unless wear
or damage necessitates the installation of new parts.
There is about .005 inch clearance between the
throttle shaft and the throttle shaft bores in the throttle body. Any clearance over .010 inch, a new throttle
shaft and/or throttle body should be installed.
Throttle
INSPECTION A N D ASSEMBLY
Body
(1) Inspect the throttle shaft and throttle body
Fig. 5 — P o r t s in Relation
to the Throttle
Valves
for excessive wear. If either or both are worn to
the point where the carburetor operation will be affected, replace as required.
During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control ports to the
throttle valve, is carefully established for one particular assembly, refer to (Fig. 5).
If a new shaft should be installed in an old, worn
throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of the ports to the valves would be
obtained. Changing the relationship of the valves to
the ports would adversely affect normal car operation
between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. If it
has been determined, however, that a new shaft or
valves is to be installed, adhere to the following instructions:
(2) Mark the position of the throttle valves in the
bores. Be sure the idle speed screw is backed off.
(3) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves
to the shaft and slide the valves out of the bores.
NOTE: These screws are staked on the opposite
side and care should be used at removal so as not
to break off in the shaft.
NK614
Fig. 4—Removing or installing
Venturi
Cluster
the
Remove the staked end of the screws with a file.
(4) Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the body.
(5) Install new throttle shaft and lever.
(6) Install throttle valves in their respective bores
(with the valve numbers toward the manifold). Install
new screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves in
place, with the fingers pressing on the high sides of
the valves. Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver
to seat in the throttle bores. Tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.
(7) Install the idle mixture screws and springs in
the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be
straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved
or ridged, new idle mixture screws should be installed
to insure having correct idle mixture control.) DO
NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. Turn the screws lightly
against their seats with the fingers. Back off one full
turn for approximate adjustment.
MyMopar.com
-CARBURETOR—BBD
14-17
STEP-UP RODS
MUST M O V E
FREELY
NK617
F i g . 7 — S t e p - U p Rods Free
F i g . 6—Testing the Accelerator
and Discharge
Main
Check
Pwmp
Intake
Bails
Body
(1) Invert the main body and place a new gasket in
position and place the throttle body on the main body
and align. Install screws and tighten securely.
(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check
ball in the discharge passage and check the accelerator pump system; fuel inlet and discharge check
balls as follows:
(3) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl,
approximately V% inch deep. Remove the pump plunger from the jar of gasoline, flex the leather several
times, then slide down into the pump cylinder. Raise
the plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to
expel all air from the pump passage.
(4) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball down firmly on its seat. Again raise
the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be
emitted from either the intake or discharge passage,
as shown in (Fig. 6).
If any fuel does emit from either passage, it indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check ball
seat. Check the passage again and repeat test. If
leakage is still evident, install a new check ball. The
fuel inlet check ball is located at the bottom of the
plunger well.
(5) Install new gaskets on the venturi cluster, and
install in position in the main body. Install the cluster
screws and tighten securely. Test pump discharge by
pressing pump plunger down. Two fine streams of fuel
should be forced from the cluster. If either stream is
restricted or diverted, remove cluster and reclean.
After test, pour the fuel from the bowl and remove
pump plunger.
(6) Install the main metering jets. Tighten securely.
(Refer to Fig. 3.)
Play
(7) Before installing the step-up piston, be sure the
step-up rods are able to move freely, each side of the
vertical position, as shown in (Fig. 7). The step-up
rods must be straight, smooth and free to move forward and backward from vertical.
(8) Slide the step-up piston gasket down into position in the piston well, then install the step-up piston spring, step-up piston and rods. Carefully guide
the step-up rods into the main metering jets. (Fig. 2.)
Install the retaining screw and tighten securely. Check
piston for free operation in the well.
A step-up piston stuck in the Up position will cause
a rich mixture at part throttle, whereas a piston stuck
in the Down position will cause a lean mixture at wide
open throttle and poor acceleration.
Measuring
Float
Setting
The carburetors are equipped with a rubber-tipped
fuel inlet needle. The rubber tip is flexible enough to
make a good seal on the needle seat, and to give increased resistance to flooding.
The use of the rubber-tipped needle requires a new
procedure in adjusting the float setting. Care should
be taken to perform this operation accurately in order
to secure the best performance and fuel economy.
(1) To correctly set the float height when the carburetor is being overhauled, install the floats with the
fulcrum pin and pin retainer in the main body.
(2) Install the rubber-tipped needle, seat and gasket
in the body and tighten securely.
(3) Invert the main body so that the weight of the
float only is forcing the needle against the seat. Hold
finger against the retainer to fully seat the fulcrum
pin.
(4) Using Tool T109-280 or a "T" scale, measure the
float, as shown in (Fig. 8). There should be / i inch
from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of each
5
6
float at the center.
If an adjustment is necessary, hold the floats on
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FLOAT G A U G E
FINGER PRESSING
A G A I N S T FULCRUM
PIN RETAINER
ONLY WEIGHT OF
FLOAT A G A I N S T
NEEDLE
NK618
F i g . 8—Checking
the Float
Setting
the bottom of the bowl and bend the float lip toward
or away from the needle. Recheck the / inch setting
again and repeat the lip bending operation as required.
5
16
CAUTION: When bending the float lip, do not allow
the lip to push against the needle as the synthetic
rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause
a false setting which will affect correct level of
fuel in the bowl.
After being compressed, the tip is very slow to recover its original shape.
CAUTION: It is very important that the float lip be
perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more
than ten degrees away from the needle when the
float height is correct.
Air
Horn
(1) Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in
the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the
bearing areas, or appears to be gummed from deposits
in the air horn, a thorough cleaning will be required.
(2) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the
gasoline, slide the compression spring and spring seat
over the shaft. Install the assembly in the air horn
and engage with the accelerator pump arm.
(3) Place a new gasket on the main body, and install the air horn. Install attaching screws and tighten securely. (When installing air horn, be sure the
leather on the plunger does not wrinkle or fold
back.)
(4) Engage the accelerator pump rod with the pump
rocker arm and install loose end in the center hole
of throttle lever. Install hairpin clip to secure. (Fig.
1.)
(5) Engage the fast idle connector rod in the fast
idle lever and throttle lever. Install hairpin clip to secure.
Choke Vacuum
that the passage is not plugged with foreign material.
Leak check the diaphragm to determine if it has
internal leaks. To do this, first depress the diaphragm
stem, then place a finger over the fitting to seal the
opening. Release the stem. If the stem moves more
than Vie inch in ten (10) seconds, the leakage is excessive and t h e assembly must be replaced.
Install t h e diaphragm assembly on the airhorn as
follows:
(1) Assemble t h e diaphragm to the airhorn and
tighten t h e attaching s c r e w s securely.
(2) Install t h e c h o k e operating link in position between t h e diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke
lever. Install t h e c l i p t o s e c u r e .
(3) Inspect t h e r u b b e r h o s e f o r cracks before placing it on t h e c o r r e c t carburetor fitting. Refer to (Fig.
1). Do not connect t h e v a c u u m h o s e t o t h e diaphragm
fitting until after t h e v a c u u m k i c k adjustment has
been made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)
C A i l U i C T O i ADJUSTMENTS
It is very important t h a t t h e following adjustments are made on a reconditioned carburetor and in
the sequence listed:
Accelerator Pump
(1) Back off the idle speed adjusting
screw.
Open
the choke valve so that the fast idle c a m a l l o w s t h e
throttle valves to be completely seated i n t h e b o r e s .
Be sure that the pump connector rod is installed i n
the center hole of the throttle lever.
(2) Close the throttle valves tightly. Measure t h e
distance between the top of the air horn and t h e end
of plunger shaft, as shown in (Fig. 9). This measure-
SCALE
BE SURE THE CURB
IDLE SPEED A D J U S T I N G
SCREW IS BACKED OFF
FOR A D J U S T M E N T BEND
HUB LEVER T A N G
NK619
Diaphragm
Inspect the diaphragm vacuum fitting to be sure
F i g . 9 — C h e c k i n g the Accelerator
Pump
Setting
MyMopar.com
CARBURETOR—BBD
1
ment should be 1" + or — /e4 inch.
(3) To adjust pump travel, bend the pump connector rod, using Tool T109-213, at the lower angle
of rod, until correct setting has been obtained.
APPLY C L O S I N G
PRESSURE A G A I N S T
CHOKE VALVE
SHAFT LEVER
14-19
DRILL OR G A U G E
AT WIDEST CHOKE
OPENING
Fast Idle Speed and Cam
Position Adjustment
The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be
made on the vehicle, as described in the Fast Idle
Speed Adjustment (On the Vehicle) Paragraph. However, the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be
made on the bench. This adjustment is important to
assure that the speeds of each step of the cam occur
at the proper time during engine warm-up.
(1) With the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacting the step on the fast idle cam shown in
(Fig. 10), move the choke valve toward the closed position with light pressure. Insert a NO. 35 drill between
the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.
(2) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag
is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.
(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the stop on
the choke shaft, using Tool T109-22 until the correct
valve opening has been obtained. Refer to (Fig. 10).
Vacuum Kick Adjustment—This test can be made
ON or OFF the vehicle.
The choke diaphragm adjustment controls the fuel
delivery while the engine is running. It positions
the choke valve within the airhorn by action of the
linkage between the choke shaft and the diaphragm.
The diaphragm must be energized to measure the
vacuum kick adjustment. Use either a distributor
test machine with a vacuum source, or vacuum supplied by another vehicle.
B O W L VENT
DRILL OR G A U G E ,
>d
SEAT
DRILL OR G A U G E A T
^ W I D E S T OPENING
•=
LIGHT C L O S I N G
.PRESSURE A G A I N S T
VALVE
FAST IDLE SPEED
SCREW O N STEP
AND AGAINST
THE FACE O F
NEXT C A M STEP
BEND T A N G
FOR B O W L
VENT
ADJUSTMENT
BEND STOP T O
ADJUST C H O K E
VALVE O P E N I N G
FAST
IDLE
CAM
Fig. 70—Fast idle Cam Position
SCREW
NK620
Adjustment
CHOKE - * ^
v
OPERATING
LINK
4
D I A P H R A G M STEM
(PLUNGER)
HOSE T O
VACUUM
8Y
,
x
SUPPLY
\
RETRACTED
VACUUM
CHOKE DIAPHRAGM
TUBE FITTING
NK621
Fig. 1 1 — C h e c k i n g th
Kick Setting
e Vacuum
(1) With the engine Not running, open the throttle
valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be
moved to the closed position.
(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm
and connect the hose from the vacuum supply, as
shown in (Fig. 11). (A minimum of 10 inches of mercury (HG) will be required.)
(3) Insert a NO. 11 drill (Manual Trans.) or a NO.
22 drill (Auto. Trans.) between the choke valve and
the wall of the airhorn. Refer to (Fig. 11). Apply sufficient closing pressure on the choke shaft lever to provide the smallest choke valve opening possible without distortion of the diaphragm link. Note that the
cylindrical stem of the diaphragm will extend as an
internal spring is compressed. This spring must be
fully compressed for proper measurement of the vacuum kick adjustment.
(4) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight
drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.
The adjustment of this opening will require the removal of the choke operating link.
CAUTION: Damage to the diaphragm and the choke
lever slot can result, if the link is not removed for
the bending operation.
(5) Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the diaphragm stem (plunger), then
disengage the link from the choke lever. (The best
bending results will be obtained by using a vise and a
pair of pliers.)
(6) Bend the choke operating link to provide the
correct choke valve opening.
CAUTION: A correction in the length of the link
of .010 inch, will result in a change of .010 inch in
the choke valve opening.
MyMopar.com
14-20
CARBURETOR—BBD'
CHOK*
OPERATING
CLOSING
DRILL O R G A U G E -
L'NK
PRESSURE
AGAINST
CHOKE
VALVE
NK622
Fig. 12—Choke Operating
Link
Measurements
THROTTLE
y
-•y^
UNLOADER '
As an example, if the choke valve opening is .010
inch in error, the correction in the link length would
be .010 inch.
A 2" micrometer will be helpful in establishing the
original length of the link, as shown in (Fig. 12),
before completing the adjustment.
(7) Install the choke operating link and recheck the
choke valve opening, using a gauge or drill. (Refer to
Fig. 11.)
Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and
make the following check:
(8) With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm, some
clearance should exist between the choke operating
link and the choke lever slot, in both the open and
closed choke valve positions, as shown in (Fig. 13).
NOTE: This clearance is necessary to allow the
, choke valve to close for starting as well as fully
open position after the engine reaches the normal
operating temperature.
CHOKE
VALVE
WIDE
OPEN
'
'
>
V
£
STOP
AT WIDE
POSITION
N
Fig. 14-—Checking the Choke
Unloader
K
6
2
4
Setting
If a clearance does not exist in both of these positions, a recheck of the operating link adjustment
should be made.
NOTE: Free movement of the choke valve between
the closed and open positions is very necessary.
This free movement should also exist between the
kick and the open choke valve positions with the
engine running. If binding does exist, the choke operating link has been improperly bent and should be
corrected.
Choke Unloader
(Wide Open Kick)
i"?-:-
OPERATING^'
m*w
OPEN
AGAINST
(1) Hold the throttle valves in the wide open position. Insert Tool T109-31 (or a V±" drill shank) between the upper edge of the choke valve and the inner
\
C H O K E ^f.
,
THROTTLE
LEVER
'
TANG
LINK
BOWL
ADJUSTING
.
J
CHOKE
VENT
TANG
..
'
J
i
*
BEND
CLEARANCE
VALVE
' f f
THIS
AT
ANGLE
CLOSEDv
CHOKER
:x
^OPERATING
L I N K ^ ^ .
NK623'
li
B
SPECIAL
F i g . 13—Choke O p e r a t i n g Link
Clearances
NK625
TOOL
Fig. 1 5 — B e n d i n g the C h o k e Unloader
Tang
MyMopar.com
wall of the air horn, as shown in (Fig. 14).
(2) With a finger lightly pressing against the valve,
a slight drag should be felt as gauge is being withdrawn. If an adustment is necessary, bend the tang
on the fast idle lever, using Tool T109-22, as shown
in (Fig. 15) until correct clearance has been obtained.
Bowl
Vent
Adjustment
(1) With the throttle valves at curb idle, there
should be Vic inch clearance between the bowl vent
valve and the air horn, when measured at the innermost or smallest dimension with a drill shank.
(2) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the short
tang on the vent valve operating lever, using Tool
T109-22 until correct opening has been obtained.
NOTE: Any adjustment to the accelerator pump
means, that the bowl vent valve must be readjusted.
Idle Speed
Adjustment
(Curb
Idle)
To make the idle speed adjustment, the engine must
be thoroughly warmed up. A more reliable idle adjustment can usually be obtained if the car has been driven a minimum of five miles. For best results, it is
recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment.
The following precautions should be taken before
making the idle speed adjustment:
(1) To make the idle speed adjustment, turn the
idle speed screw in or out to obtain 500 rpm. (On cars
with air conditioning, set the idle speed at 500 rpm
with air conditioning On.) Be sure the choke valve is
fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not
contacting the fast idle cam.
(2) Turn each idle mixture screw i n or out to obtain the highest rpm. While making the adjustment,
carefully watch the tachometer and notice that the
speed can be decreased by turning the screws in either direction from the setting that gave the highest
rpm reading.
(3) Readjust to 500 rpm with the idle speed screw.
(With air conditioning ON.)
(4) Turn each idle mixture adjusting screw in the
clockwise direction (leaner) until there is a slight
drop in rpm. Turn each screw out, counterclockwise
(richer) just enough to regain the lost rpm.
This procedure will assure that the idle has been
set to the leanest mixture possible for smooth idle.
This setting is very important.
Since the correct speed was originally set, using the
speed screw, the speed obtained after finding the leanest smooth idle will probably be too fast.
(5) Readjust the speed screw to obtain correct idle
speed. Repeat steps 2 and 4 above if necessary.
Measuring
Float Setting
(On the
Vehicle)
To measure the float setting with the carburetor
mounted on the engine, proceed as follows:
(1) Remove the hairpin clip and disengage the accelerator pump rod from the throttle lever and the
pump rocker arm. Disconnect the automatic choke rod
by unsnapping clip.
(2) Remove the air horn attaching screws and lift
the air horn straight up and away from the main body.
Remove the gasket.
(3) Set the float fulcrum pin by pressing a finger
against the fulcrum pin retainer.
There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise
the floats so that the lip bears firmly against the needle. Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly depressing the float. If the fuel pressure in the line is
insufficient to force the additional fuel into the bowl,
add the necessary fuel from a clean container.
WARNING: Since the manifolds may be hot, it is
dangerous to spill fyei out© these surfaces. Take
the necessary precautions to a v o i d spillage.
A
(4) With only the pressure from he buoyant float
holding the lip against the Inlet needle, check the
float setting, using Tool T109-28C, or a "T" scale.
There should be / i inch from the surface of the bowl
(gasket removed) to the crown of the floats at the
center.
If an adjustment is necessary, hold the floats on
the bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward or away from the needle. Recheck the / i inch
setting again, then repeat the lip bending operation as
required.
5
6
5
6
NOTE: When bending the float lip, do not allow the
lip to push against the needle as the rubber tip can
be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting
which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.
CHOKE VALVE W I D E
X
F i g . 16—Fast
(On
Idle Speed
the
OPEN
FAST IDLE SPEED A D J U S T I N G
SCREW O N THE SLOWEST
SPEED STEP O F THE FAST
IDLE C A M
Adjustment
Vehicle)
MyMopar.com
14-22
CARBURETOR—BBD-
After being compressed, the rubber tip is very slow
to recover its original shape. It is very important
that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or
slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the
needle when the float is set correctly.
(5) After thefloathas been correctly set, reassemble
the air horn.
Fast Idle Speed
Adjustment
(On the
Vehicle)*
To set the fast idle speed on the vehicle, connect a
tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed
and proceed as follows:
(1) With the engine running and the transmission
in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.
(2) Close the choke valve about 20 degrees, then
allow the throttle to close. Return the choke valve to
the open position.
(3) The fast idle adjusting screw should be contacting the slowest speed step on the fast idle cam (Fig.
F i g . 7 7 — S p r i n g Staged
16).
(4) With the engine warmed-up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle adjusting screw
in or out to secure 700 rpm. (Automatic Transmission) or 600 rpm (Manual Transmission). Reposition
the cam and throttle after every screw adjustment
to apply normal throttle closing torque.
* After Approx. 500 Miles (If Necessary).
Spring
Staged
Choke
Adjustment
The new spring staged choke, shown in (Fig. 17)
is a device incorporated in the choke mechanism which
limits the choke blade closing torque when cranking
the engine at temperatures below zero. Thus the
spring staging of the choke is a better match for the
Choke
Adjustment
engine's starting mixture requirements at the low temperatures.
To check the spring staged choke for correct operating clearance, refer to (Fig. 17) then proceed as
follows:
(1) Push on the hub lever with the finger, at the
closed choke position. A small opening should exist
between the shaft and the hub levers.
(2) Using a drill or gauge, measure the opening.
The opening should be from .020 to .030 inches.
(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the hub
lever tang until the correct opening has been obtained.
MyMopar.com
CARBURETOR—AFB
14-23
PART 4
AFB SERIES CARTER CARBURETOR
ing, quick stops and acceleration.
All the major castings of the carburetor are aluminum, with the throttle body cast integral with the
main body. This allows an overall height reduction in
the carburetor. The section containing the accelerator pump is termed the primary side of the carburetor. The rear section is the secondary. The five conventional systems used in previous four barrel carburetors
are also used in this unit. The five conventional systems are, two float systems, two low speed systems,
(primary side only) two high speed systems, one accelerator pump system and one automatic choke control system.
Description
The AFB (aluminum four barrel) carburetor contains many features, some of which are the locations
for the step-up rods and pistons. The step-up rods, pistons and springs are accessible for service without removing the air horn or the carburetor from the engine. The venturi assemblies (primary and secondary)
are replaceable and contain many of the calibration
points for both the high and low speed system. One
fuel bowl feeds both the primary and secondary nozzles on the right side while the other fuel bowl takes
care of the primary and secondary nozzles on the left
side. This provides improved performance in corner-
SIRWiCI PROCEDURES
DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to (Fig. 1), then proceed as follows:
(1) Place the carburetor assembly on repair stand
Tool C-3400 or T-109-287S elevating legs. These tools
are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.
STEP-UP
STEP-UP
PISTON
COVER
PLATE
COVER
PISTON
PLATE
ACCELERATOR
ACCELERATOR
PUMP
FUEL
LINK
PLUNGER
INLET
PUMP
ROCKER ARM
ACCELERATOR
FITTING
ACCELERATOR
CONNECTOR
PUMP
STEM
PUMP
CHOKE
l
RO
VACUUM
DIAPHRAGM
v
V CURB IDLE
\
SPEED
I ADJUSTING
>•* m
THROTTLE
MAIN
SCREW
AND
BODY
SECONDARY
THROTTLE
OPERATING
LEVER
FAST
I
IDLE
CLOSED
CONNECTOR
FAST
IDLE
ADJUSTING
SPEED
SCREW
VENT
IDLE
ADJUSTING
SPEED
SCREW
LEGS
( S E T O F 4)
TUBE
FITTING
SECONDARY
ELEVATING
CURB
CRANKCASE
ROD
THROTTLE
IDLE
OPERATING
PRIMARY
SHAFT
THROTTLE
ARM
(OUTER)
Assembly
SCREWS
DISTRIBUTOR
VACUUM
TUBE
Fig. 1—Carburetor
MIXTURE
ADJUSTING
ROD
ADVANCE
FITTING
NK585
(AFB)
MyMopar.com
14-24
CARBURETOR—AFB
!
(2) Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the fast
idle connector rod to the choke lever. Disengage rod
from lever, then swing rod at an arc until it can be
disengaged from the fast idle cam.
(3) Remove the clevis pin that holds the throttle
connector rod in the center hole of the accelerator
pump arm. Remove the hairpin clip that attaches the
lower end of rod in the primary throttle shaft lever.
Disengage rod from arm and lever, then remove
from carburetor.
(4) Remove the screws attaching the step-up piston and rod cover plates. Hold cover down with a
finger to prevent the piston and rods from flying out.
Lift off the plates and slide the step-up pistons and
rods out of the air horn, as shown in (Fig. 2). Remove
the step-up piston springs.
(5) Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor throttle body and the vacuum diaphragm.
(6) Remove the clip from the choke operating
link and disengage the link from the diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke lever. Refer to (Fig. 1).
(7) Remove the vacuum diaphragm and bracket assembly and place to one side to be cleaned as a special
item. A liquid cleaner may damage the diaphragm
material.
(8) Remove the ten screws that attach the air horn
to the main body. (1 screw in hole in air horn.) Lift air
horn straight up and away from the main body. When
removing air horn, use care so as not to bend or
damage the floats. Remove the accelerator pump,
plunger lower spring from the pump cylinder.
Disassembling
the Air
Horn
Place the air horn in an inverted position on the
bench (to protect the floats) then proceed' to disassemble as follows:
(1) Using a suitable Tool, remove the float fulcrum
PRIMARY VENTURI
CLUSTER
A C C E L E R A T O R PUMP
INTAKE
CHECK
VALVE
/
4
ACCELERATOR
PUMP
HOUSING JET
ACCELERATOR
PUMP
DISCHARGE
PASSAGE
i
15
*
'""
Fig. 3 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Pump
Jet
NK587
Accelerator
Housing
pins, (left and right) then lift the float up and out of
bosses on air horn.
NOTE: It is suggested that the float on the pump
side be marked so that the floats can be re-installed
in their respective positions.
(2) Remove the two needle valves from their respective seats, after marking the one on the pump
side for identification. Using a wide blade screw driver, remove the needle valve seats. Re sure each needle valve is returned to its original seat at reassembly.
(3) Remove the spring clip that holds the throttle
connector rod in the center hole of the pump arm.
Remove the pump arm pivot screw and lift off the
pump arm, at the same time, disengage the link from
the arm and the pump stem. Slide the accelerator
pump plunger and spring out of the air horn. Remove
gasket.
STEP-UP -
PISTON
AND
METERING
ROD
SPECIE
STEP-UP PISTON
\±
SPRING
J<-
TOOL
O
STEP-UP
PISTON
AND
METERING
ROD
MAIN
SCREW
COVER *
STEP-UP
SCREW
PISTON
PLATES
METERING JET
(SECONDARY)
(2)
'MAIN
SPRING
JE)'
MEi BRING
(PRIMARY)
(2)
NK586
NK588
Fig. 2 — R e m o v i n g
Pistons
or Installing
and
Rods
Step-Up
Fig. 4—Removing
or Installing
Main
Metering
Jet
MyMopar.com
CARBURETOR—AFB
SECONDARY
CLUSTER
PRIMARY
VENTURI
(PUMP
SIDE)
CLUSTER
IDLE
VENTURI
(PUMP
14-25
DISCHARGE
PORTS
SPARK
SIDE)
ADVANCE
PORT
PRIMARY
THROTTLE
VALVES
GASKET
PRIMARY
•
VENTURI
/
CLUSTER
(CHOKE
SIDE)
1
NK591 **®*
_
IDLE T R A N S F E R
F i g . 7—Ports in Relation
PORTS
t
to Throttle
1
Valves
SECONDARY—
VENTURI
NK589
CLUSTER
F i g . 5 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Venturi
NOTE: The primary and secondary main metering
jets are not interchangeable. It is very important
that these jets be installed in their respective locations in the main body at reassembly.
Primary
Cluster
(4) Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of
clean gasoline or kerosene, to prevent the leather
from drying out.
(5) Remove the fuel inlet fitting and filter screen
from the air horn.
(6) Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in
the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the bearing
area, or appears to be gummed from deposits in the
air horn, a thorough cleaning will be required.
Main
Body
Disassembly
(1) Remove the screws that attach the accelerator
pump jet housing to the main body. Lift out the jet
housing and gasket as shown in (Fig. 3). Discard the
gasket. Now, invert the main body and drop out the
discharge check needle from the discharge passage.
(2) Using Tool T109-58, remove the main metering
SECONDARY
PUMP
F i g . 6 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Venturi
Cluster
jets (primary side), as shown in (Fig. 4).
VENTURI
SIDE
Secondary
(3) Again using Tool T109-58, remove the main
metering jets (secondary side), as shown in (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the screws that attach the primary venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body. Lift the
venturi straight up and away from the main body, as
shown in (Fig. 5). Discard the gaskets.
NOTE: The venturi assemblies are not interchangeable, side for side and must be reinstalled in
their original locations at reassembly.
(5) Remove the screws that attach the secondary
venturi (choke and pump side) to the main body. Lift
the secondary venturi assemblies straight up and
away from the body, as shown in (Fig. 6).
(6) Using Tool T109-59, screw driver bit, remove
the accelerator pump intake check valve located inside the fuel bowl, adjacent to the accelerator pump
cylinder.
(7) Remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws
and springs from the throttle body portion of the
main casting.
The carburetor now has been disassembled into
two units, namely the air horn and the main and
throttle body casting. The component parts of each
have been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.
It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle
shafts or valves unless wear or damage necessitates
the installation of new parts. During the manufacture
of the carburetor, the location of the idle transfer
ports and the idle discharge ports to the valve is carefully established for one particular assembly, as
shown in (Fig. 7). The valves are milled to give the
proper port relation.
If new throttle shafts should be installed in an old
worn body, it would be very unlikely that the original
relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. A very slight change in the port relationship
to the valves would adversely affect normal carburet-
MyMopar.com
14-26
CARBURETOR—AF!«
or operation, between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles
per hour.
It is recommended that if the throttle shafts are
excessively worn, that a new carburetor be installed.
However, if the throttle valves have become nicked,
burred or damaged, new valves may be installed, providing the following instructions are carefully followed.
NOTE: The screws that attach the throttle valves
are staked on the opposite side and care should be
used in removal so as not to break the screws in
the throttle shaft. Remove the staked portion of the
screws with a file.
Remove the screws that attach the primary throttle
valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve (or valves)
out of bores.
Remove the screws that attach the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft and slide valve (or
valves) out of bores.
The primary valves and secondary valves are not
interchangeable and should be kept separate in order
that each may be returned to its respective bore. (See
Fig. 8).
mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure
having correct idle mixture control. Do not use a
screw driver. The adjustment should be made with
the fingers. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws
lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn
for an approximate adjustment.
(4) Place new secondary venturi gaskets in position, then install the secondary venturi (pump and
choke side) by lowering straight down on gaskets. Install attaching screws and tighten securely.
NOTE: Be sure all the metering holes and vent
tubes are clean, in both the primary and secondary
venturi.
(5) Place new primary venturi gaskets in position,
then install the primary venturi (pump and choke
side) by lowering straight down on the gaskets. Refer
to (Fig. 5). Install attaching screws and tighten securely.
(6) Install the primary and secondary main metering jets, using Tool T109-58. Refer to (Fig. 4.) Tighten
jets securely.
(7) Install the accelerator pump intake check ball
using Tool T-109-59.
Accelerator Pump Test
INSPECTION A N D ASSEMBLY
(1) Slide the primary throttle valve (or valves) into
their respective bores, install new screws, but do not
tighten. Be sure the idle speed adjusting screw is
backed out. Hold the valves in place with fingers.
(Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.)
(2) Tap the valves lightly in this position, tighten
screws securely. Stake screws by squeezing with
pliers.
(3) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws
and springs in the throttle body portion of the casting. The tapered portion must be straight and smooth.
If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle
-SECONDARY VALVE
(BRASS)
(1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl
(approximately V% inch deep). Remove the accelerator
pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Flex the
leather several times, then slide into the pump cylinder. (2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check
needle in the discharge passage. Raise the pump
plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passages. Using a small clean
brass rod, hold the discharge check needle firmly on
its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward.
No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or
discharge passage.
(3) If fuel does emit from the intake passage, remove the intake check ball and reclean the passage.
Fuel leakage at the discharge check needle indicates
the presence of dirt or a damaged check needle. Clean
again and then install a new check needle. Retest for
leakage.
(4) If either the intake check assembly or discharge
check needle leaks after above test and service fix,
attempt to reseat as follows:
Intake
Check
Ball
Remove the intake check assembly from the throttle body. Install a new check assembly, then retest as
described previously.
PRIMARY VALVE'
(ALUMINUM)
Fig.
Throttle
Valve
Discharge
KF946A
Identification
Check
Needle
(1) With the discharge check needle installed, insert a piece of drill rod down on the needle. Lightly
tap the drill rod with a hammer to form a new seat.
MyMopar.com
CAIBUlETOi—AFB
14-27
Remove and discard old needle and install a new one.
Retest as described previously. If the service fix does
not correct the condition, a new carburetor will have
to be installed.
(2) Install the accelerator pump discharge check
needle, jet housing and gasket. Install housing and
attaching screws. Tighten screws securely.
(3) Press down on the accelerator pump plunger
shaft, and as the plunger is being depressed, a clear
straight stream should emit from each jet. If the
streams are not identical, (if either one is diverted or
restricted) a new accelerator pump jet housing should
be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the
carburetor bowl and remove pump plunger.
Assembling
the Ait
Horn
Fig, 9 — C h e c k i n g Float
(1) Slide the fuel inlet screen into the fuel line fitting, then install in air horn. Tighten securely.
(2) Check to see if the leather on the accelerator
pump plunger is hard, cracked or worn. If any sign
of wear or deterioration is evident, install a new
plunger assembly.
(3) When reassembling, make sure the large diameter of the pivot screw enters the hole in the pump
arm and that the shoulder on the screw has not
pinched the pump arm.
The carburetors are equipped with synthetic rubber tipped fuel inlet needles. The needle tip is a rubber material which is not affected by gasoline and is
stable over a wide range of temperatures. The tip is
flexible enough to make a good seal on the needle
seat, and to give increased resistance to flooding.
The use of the new inlet needles requires that care
be used when making float adjustments. Avoid applying any pressure on the floats which might compress
the tip of the fuel inlet needles.
NOTE: The tip can be compressed sufficiently to
cause a false setting which will affect correct level
of fuel In the bowl.
(4) Place a new air horn to main body gasket in position on the air horn, then install the float needle
valve seats. (Be sure each needle seat and needle is
reinstalled in its original position.)
(5) Slide the right and left floats into position in
the air horn, then install the float fulcrum pins. (Be
Alignment
with the edge of casting, bend the float lever by applying pressure to the end of the float shell with the
thumb.
NOTE: To avoid damage to the float, apply only
enough pressure to bend the float lever.
(3) After aligning the floats, remove as much clearance as possible between the arms of the float lever
and the lugs of the air horn. To do this, bend the float
lever. The arms of the float lever should be as parallel
as possible to the inner surfaces of the lugs or the
casting.
Float Level
Setting
(1) With the air horn inverted, the air horn gasket
in place and the float needle seated, slide float gauge
(refer to specifications for carburetor being worked
on) between the top of the float (at outer end) and the
air horn gasket, as shown in (Fig. 10). Float should
just touch gauge (T109-106).
(2) Check the other float in the same manner. If an
adjustment is necessary, bend the float arm using
G A S K E T IN P L A C E
FLOAT
sure the marked float Is installed on the pump side
of the air horn.) See disassembly procedures.
(6) After the floats have been installed, check the
float alignment, level and drop settings as follows:
Float
Alignment
Setting
(1) Sight down the side of each float shell to determine if the side of the float is parallel to the outer
edge of the air horn casting, as shown in (Fig. 9).
(2) If the sides of the float are not in alignment
64x344
Fig, 1 0 — C h e c k i n g Float
Height
MyMopar.com
14-28
CARBURETOR—AFB
/
GASKET
IN
PLACE
2
STEP-UP
PISTON
SPRING
STAGE
STEP-UP
PISTON
COVER
/
m
.
4
r
STEP-UP R O D
t-3 S T E P S *
SCREW
BEND
STOP
EACH
TABS
JET-OLD TYPE-
JET-NEW
FLOAT
TYPE
61x171
64x345
Fig. 12—Step-Up
Fig. 11—Checking Float Drop
Tool T109-22, until correct clearance has been obtained. After bending arm, recheck the float alignment.
Float Drop
Setting
(1) Holding the air horn in an upright position,
measure the distance from the top of the floats (outer
end) to the air horn gasket, as shown in (Fig. 11).
This measurement should be % inch. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the stop tabs on the float
levers until the correct drop setting has been obtained. Bend the tab toward the needle seat to lessen
the drop, or away from the seat to increase the drop.
(2) After the floats have been checked and adjusted, continue to assemble the carburetor as follows:
(3) Place the accelerator pump plunger lower
spring in the pump cylinder, then lower the air horn
carefully down on the main body. Care must be taken
to center the small brass main bleed tubes so that
they will pass through the holes in the air horn without being damaged.
Piston, Rod and Jet
intermediate speed range. To do this, there is a new
step-up piston and spring assembly, new metering
rods with three diameters, and new style primary
metering jets, as shown in (Fig. 12).
(5) Slide the step-up piston spring into the piston
cylinders, followed by the step-up pistons and stepup rods. Install the cover plates and attaching screws
while holding the step-up pistons down in position.
Tighten screws securely.
(6) Check the fit of the choke valve in air horn.
The valve should be evenly spaced on all sides. Loosen screws and reposition if necessary.
(7) Engage the throttle connector rod with the primary throttle shaft lever, then install hairpin clip. Install clevis clip to the rod and pump arm.
(8) Engage the lower end of the fast idle connector
rod with the fast idle cam, then swing in an arc to
lock in cam. Slide other end of rod into the choke
shaft lever and secure with hairpin clip.
Installing
the Vacuum
Diaphragm
Inspect the diaphragm vacuum fitting to be sure
that the passage is not plugged with foreign material.
Leak check the diaphragm to determine if it has inNOTE: Be sure the fuel baffles on the air horn,
ternal leaks. To do this, first depress the diaphragm
stem, then place a finger over the vacuum fitting to
slide down in front, (bowl side) of the float chamber
seal the opening. Release the diaphragm stem. If the
baffles, or the air horn will not index correctly
stem moves more than j inch in ten (10) seconds,
with the main body and can cause the floats to
the leakage is excessive and the assembly must be
hang up. Be sure the leather on the plunger does
replaced. Install the diaphragm assembly on the carnot curl or wrinkle. Accelerator pump operation
buretor as follows:
will be affected if this precaution is not observed.
(1) Assemble to the carburetor and tighten the at(4) Install the 10 air horn attaching screws and
taching screws securely.
tighten securely. (The two long screws should be in(2) Install the choke operating link in position bestalled in the holes that are located at the air cleaner
tween the diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke
mounting surface. The 1 inch screw at the front and
lever. Install the clip to secure.
the IV2 inch at the rear).
(3) Inspect the rubber hose for cracks, before placThe change from the low speed, best fuel economy,
ing
it on the correct carburetor fitting. Refer to (Fig.
road load mixtures to the richer wide open throttle *
1). Do not connect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm
full power mixtures is now accomplished in two steps.
fitting until after the vacuum kick adjustment has
This has made it possible to secure best low speed
been made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)
fuel economy without sacrificing performance in the
1
1Q
MyMopar.com
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
The following adjustments should be made with
the carburetor on the bench for ease of working, and,
should be made in the following order:
Fast Idle Speed
and Cam Position
Adjustment
The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be
made on the vehicle, as described in the Fast Idle
Speed Adjustment (On the Vehicle Paragraph.) However, the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be
made on the bench.
This adjustment is important to assure that the
speeds of each cam step occur at the proper time during engine warm-up. Adjust as follows:
(1) With the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacting the step on the fast idle cam, shown in (Fig.
13), move the choke valve toward the closed position
with light pressure. Insert a NO. 50 drill between the
choke valve and the wall of the airhorn.
(2) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight
drag is not obtained as the drill is being removed.
(3) If an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle
connector rod at the angle, using Tool T109-213 until
the correct valve opening has been obtained. Refer to
(Fig. 13).
Vacuum
made
Kick Adjustment—(This
ON or Off the
test can be
vehicle.)
The choke diaphragm adjustment controls the fuel
delivery while the engine is running. It positions the
choke valve within the airhorn by action of the linkage between the choke shaft and the diaphragm. The
diaphragm must be energized to measure the vacuum
kick adjustment. Use either a distributor test machine with a vacuum source, or vacuum supplied by
another vehicle.
(1) With the engine Not running, open the throttle
valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be
moved to the closed position.
(2) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and connect the hose from the vacuum supply, as shown in (Fig. 14). (A minimum of 10 inches
of vacuum) will be required.
(3) Insert the specified drill between the choke
valve and the wall of the air horn. Refer to (Fig. 14).
Apply sufficient closing pressure on the choke shaft
lever to provide the smallest choke valve opening possible without distortion of the diaphragm link. Note
that the cylindrical stem of the diaphragm will extend
as an internal spring is compressed. The spring must
be fully compressed for proper measurement of the
kick adjustment.
(4) An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag
is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.
The adjustment of this opening will require the
removal of the choke operating link.
CAUTION: Damage to the diaphragm and the choke
lever slot can result, if the link is not removed for
the bending operation.
(5) Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the choke lever, then disengage the
link from the diaphragm stem. (The best bending results will be obtained by using a vise and a pair of
pliers.)
(6) Bend the choke operating link to provide the
correct choke valve opening.
DRILL
LIGHT
CLOSING
AGAINST
CHOKE
OR
GAUGE
PRESSURE
VALVE
CLOSING
CHOKE
• CHOKE
PRESSURE
SHAFT
LEVER
O N
LEVER
SLOT
DIAPHRAGM STEM
^
*
Y ^ ^ A l
l
'J
r r
*
;
, - - e - MINIMUM
' \
f
O F
10 I N C H E S
O F
VACUUM
ON
DIAPHRAGM
REQUIRED
TO
VACUUM
SOURCE
F A S T IDLE S P E E D
ADJUSTING SCREW*
NK592
Fig. 13—Fast
* F A S T IDLE A D
O N SECOND
A N D RIDING
OF HIGHEST
Idle Cam Position
JUSTING SCREW
STEP O F THE C A M
AGAINST FACE
STEP
Adjustment
HK595
Fig. 1 4 — C h e c k i n g the Choke
Vacuum
Kick
Setting
MyMopar.com
14-30
CARBURETOR—AFB
LIGHT
PRESSURE
CHOKE
CHOKE
OPERATING
CLOSING
!
AGAINST
^
VALVE
BEND
&
Operating
Link
OR
GAUGE
LINK
NK596
Fig. IS—Choke
DRILL
r
I
Measurement
UNLOADER
UNLOADER
X
CONTACT
TANG
TANG
SHOULD
THE FAST
IDLE
C A M
CAUTION: A correction in the length of the link of
.015 inch, will result in a change of .010 inch in the
choke valve opening.
As an example, if the choke valve opening is .010
inch in error, the correction in the link length would
be .015.
A 2" micrometer will be helpful in establishing the
original length of the link, as shown in (Fig. 15), before completing the adjustment.
(7) Install the choke operating link and recheck the
choke valve opening, using a drill or gauge. Refer to
(Fig. 14).
Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and
make the following check:
(8) With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm,
some clearance should exist between the choke operating link and the choke lever slot, in both the open
and closed choke valve positions, as shown in (Fig.
16).
NOTE: This clearance is necessary to allow the
choke valve to close for starting as well as fully
open after the engine reaches the normal operating
temperature.
CHOKE
WIDE
VALVE
OPEN
CLEARANCE
THROTTLE
OPEN
NK598
Fig. 17—Checking
(Wide
Choke
Open
IN
WIDE
POSITION
Unloader
Kick)
If a clearance does not exist in both of these positions, a recheck of the operating link adjustment
should be made.
NOTE: Free movement of the choke valve between
the closed and open positions is very necessary.
This free movement should also exist between the
kick and the open choke valve positions with the engine running. If binding does exist, the choke operating link has been improperly bent and should be
corrected.
Choke Unloader
Adjustment
With the throttle valves in the wide open position,
it should be possible to insert Tool T109-80 (%
inch) gauge between the upper edge of the choke
valve and the inner wall of the air horn, as shown in
(Fig. 17).
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the unloader
lip on the throttle shaft lever, using Tool T109-41,
until correct opening has been obtained.
Accelerator Pump
Adjustment
Move the choke valve to wide open position, to release the fast idle cam. Back off the idle speed adjusting screw (curb idle) until the throttle valves are
seated in the bores.
Measure the distance from the top of the air horn
to the top of the plunger shaft, using a "T" scale, as
shown in (Fig. 18). This distance should be / i inch.
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the throttle
connector rod at the lower angle, using Tool T109213, until correct travel has been obtained.
7
6
;
:'
Fig. 16—Choke Operating
Link
Clearances
NK597
MyMopar.com
BACKED
OFF
1
•
Wm
|
1
^
THROTTLE
Fig. 18—Checking
\ V /
FULLY
" \
/
CLOSED
Wt
NK599
the Accelerator
Pump
Adjustment
Secondary
Throttle Lever
Adjustment
To check the secondary throttle lever adjustment,
block the choke valve in the wide open position and
invert the carburetor. Slowly open the primary throttle valves until it is possible to measure /e4 inch between the lower edge of the primary valve and the
bore (opposite idle port) as shown in (Fig. 19). At this
measurement, the secondary valves should just start
to open. If an adjustment is necessary, bend the secondary throttle operating rod at the angle, using Tool
T109-213, until correct adjustment has been obtained.
With the primary and secondary throttle valves in
the tightly closed position, it should be possible to insert Tool T109-29 (.020") wire gauge, between the
positive closing shoes on the secondary throttle le21
BEND
R O D A T THIS
Secondary
Throttle
Throttle Lock Out
Adjustment
Crack the throttle valves, then manually open and
close the choke valve. The tang on the secondary
throttle lever should freely engage in the notch of the
lockout dog. Refer to (Fig. 19).
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the
secondary throttle lever, until engagement has been
made. Use Tool T109-22 for this operation.
After adjustments have been made, reinstall carburetor on engine, using a new gasket.
It is suggested that the carburetor be filled with
clean gasoline. This will help prevent dirt that is
trapped in the fuel system, from being dislodged by
the free flow of fuel, as the carburetor is primed.
Idle Speed
ANGLE
F i g . 1 9 — C h e c k i n g the Secondary
Adjustment
vers, as shown in (Fig. 20).
If an adjustment is necessary, bend the shoe on the
secondary throttle lever, using Tool T109-22, until
correct clearance has been obtained.
Adjustment—(Curb
Idle)
To make the idle speed adjustment, the engine
must be thoroughly warmed up. A much more reliable
idle adjustment can usually be obtained if the car has
been driven a minimum of five miles. For the best results, it is recommended that a tachometer be used
in this adjustment. (Before making the idle speed adjustment observe the following precautions:)
On cars equipped with the automatic transmission,
loosen the nut in the sliding link of the carburetor to
bellcrank rod so that the stop in the transmission will
not interfere with the free movement of the carburetor throttle lever.
To make the idle speed adjustment, proceed as follows:
(1) Turn the idle speed screw in or out to obtain
500 r.p.m. (With air conditioning On, set the idle
speed at 500 r.p.m.) Be sure the choke valve is fully
open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam.
(2) Turn each idle mixture screw to obtain the
MyMopar.com
14-32
CARBURETOR—AFB
CHOKE VALVE
highest r.p.m. While making the adjustment, carefully watch the tachometer and notice that the speed
can be decreased by turning the screws in either direction from the setting that gave the highest r.p.m.
reading.
(3) Readjust to 500 r.p.m. with the idle speed
screw.
(4) Turn each idle mixture adjusting screw in the
clockwise direction (leaner) until there is a slight
drop in r.p.m. Now, turn each screw out, counterclockwise (richer) just enough to regain the lost r.p.m.
This procedure will assure that the idle has been
set to the leanest possible mixture for smooth idle.
WIDE
OPEN
This setting is very important.
Since the correct speed was originally set using the
speed screw, the speed obtained after finding the
leanest smooth idle setting will probably be too fast.
(5) Readjust the speed screw to obtain correct idle
speed. Repeat steps 2 and 4 above if necessary.
After the proper idle speed has been obtained,
move the sliding link to the rear, against the stop,
and tighten the nut securely.
Fast Idle Speed
Adjustment
(On the
Vehicle)*
To set the fast idle speed on the vehicle, connect a
tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed
and proceed as follows:
(1) With the engine running and the transmission
in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.
(2) Close the choke valve about 20 degrees, then
allow the throttle to close. Return the choke valve to
the wide open position.
Fig. 21—Fosf
Idle Speed
(on the
Adjustment
Vehicle)
(3) The fast idle speed adjusting screw should be
contacting the slowest speed step on the fast idle
cam, as shown in (Fig. 21).
(4) With the engine warmed-up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle speed adjusting screw in or out to secure 700 r.p.m.
NOTE: Reposition the cam and throttle after every
fast idle speed screw adjustment to apply normal
throttle closing torque.
* After Approx. 500 Miles (If Necessary).
MyMopar.com
FUEL PUMP
PART
FUEL
14-33
5
PUMP—TANK
FUEL PUMP
Description
Testing (On the
Fuel pump Model M-3672S is used on all Chrysler
and Imperial engines. The fuel pump is of the pressed
steel type and cannot be disassembled for service. If
a pump malfunction occurs, remove the old pump
and install a new one.
If the fuel pump fails to supply fuel properly to the
carburetor, the following tests should be made before
removing the fuel pump from the vehicle.
Operation
The fuel pump (Fig. 1) is driven by an eccentric
cam (cast integral with the camshaft) through the
medium of a short push rod.
As the camshaft rotates, the eccentric cam presses
against the push rod, forcing the pump rocker arm
down. This action lifts the pull rod and diaphragm
upwards against the fuel pump main spring, thus
creating a vacuum in the valve housing, which opens
the inlet valve, forcing fuel into the valve housing
chamber. On the return stroke, the main spring forces
the diaphragm to the down position which closes the
inlet valve and expels the fuel in the valve housing
chamber, through the oulet valve to the fuel filter
and the carburetor.
It is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced
when performing an engine tuneup or at least every
20,000 miles. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN.
Vehicle)
Pressure Test
If leakage is not apparent, test pump for pressure,
as follows:
(1) Insert a "T" fitting in the fuel line at the carburetor, as shown in (Fig. 2).
(2) Connect a 6 inch piece of hose between the "T"
fitting and gauge Tool C-3411. (The hose should not
exceed 6 inches. A longer hose may collect fuel and
the additional weight would be added to the pressure
of the pump and result in an inaccurate reading.)
(3) Vent the pump for a few seconds (this relieves
any air trapped in the fuel chamber). If this is not
done, the pump will not operate at full capacity and
a low pressure reading will result.
(4) Connect a tachometer, then start the engine and
run at 500 rpm. The reading should be from 3% to 5
psi. The pressure should remain constant or return to
zero very, very slowly when the engine is stopped.
An instant drop to zero indicates a leaky outlet valve.
If the pressure is too low, a weak main spring or improper assembly of the diaphragm may be the cause.
If the pressure is too high, the main spring is too
strong.
Vacuum
Test
The vacuum test should be made with the fuel line
TACHOMETER
(ENGINE
SPEED)
6 INCH
MAXIMUM
Fig. I — F u e l Pump
Assembly
Fig. 2 — P r e s s u r e Testing
Pump
MyMopar.com
the Fuel
14-34
FUEL TANK
disconnected from the carburetor. (This will allow
the pump to operate at full capacity, which it must do
to prime a dry carburetor.) The vacuum reading
should be at least 10 inches of vacuum at 500 r.p.m.
with the fuel line disconnected at the carburetor.
The vacuum reading should be at least 10" of vacuum at 500 rpm with the fuel line disconnected at
the carburetor.
Volume
Test
The fuel pump should supply 1 quart of fuel in 1
minute or less at 500 rpm.
Inlet Valve
Test
To test the inlet valve, connect a vacuum gauge on
the inlet fitting while the line is disconnected.
(1) Start the engine or turn over with the starting
motor.
(2) There should be a noticeable vacuum present,
not alternated by blowback.
(3) If blowback is present, the inlet valve is not
seating properly and a new pump installed.
If the fuel pump does not perform to the above
test requirements, the fuel pump should be removed
from the vehicle.
FUEL TANK
The fuel tank on all models except Station Wagon
Models is located at the rear of the body, under the
trunk compartment floor, as shown in (Fig. 1). In
Station Wagon models, the fuel tank is mounted in
the left rear quarter panel beyond the wheel house,
as shown in (Fig. 2).
If the vehicle is to be stored for any appreciable
length of time, the gasoline should be drained from
the entire system, in order to prevent gum formation. If the vehicle has been undercoated, be sure
the fuel tank vent tube (under kickup in floor pan)
is open. If this is not done, a collapsed fuel tank
will result.
The fuel tank on all models except Station Wagon
has a 25 gallon capacity. The Station Wagon capacity
is 22 gallons. The filler tube on the conventional models is accessible through the center of the deck opening lower panel, while the Station Wagon fills at the
left rear upper quarter panel between the quarter
post and the fin. The fuel tank is fitted with a gauge
unit, including the suction pipe, as shown in (Fig. 3).
NK554
Fig.
F — F u e / Tank
Mounting
(Chrysler—Except
Station
Wagon)
MyMopar.com
FUEL TANK
TANK
14-35
ASSY
NY97B
F i g . 2 — F u e l Tank Mounting
The filter on the end of the suction pipe is replaceable unit and prevents the entry of water and dirt.
When installing a tank unit, be sure the filter is
pushed on the end of the tube until seated.
(Station
Wagon)
(4) Remove the nuts that hold the ends of the fuel
tank hold down straps to the frame. Lower the front
REMOVING THE FUEL TANK (Except
Station Wagon and Imperial)
CAUTION: Be sure the ignition switch is turned
off before disconnecting or connecting the gauge
wire.
Removal
(1) Drain the tank into a safety can, then disconnect the fuel line and the wire lead to the gauge unit.
(2) Disconnect the vent tube at the hose connection
at the leading edge of the tank.
(3) Remove the screw that attaches the filler tube
bracket to the trunk panel.
KP275
F i g . 3—Fuel
Gauge (Tank
Unit)
MyMopar.com
14-36
FUEL TANK
end of the tank far enough to disengage the filler
tube from the rear panel and slide out from under
the vehicle.
(5) Remove the tank gauge unit, using spanner
wrench Tool C-3582 (Fig. 3). Check the rubber grommet around the filler tube. If cracked or deteriorated,
install a new grommet at reassembly.
Installation
Before installing the tank gauge unit, check the
condition of the filter on the end of suction tube. If
the filter is plugged, plastic will not corrode, install a
new filter.
(1) Position the fuel tank gauge unit in the tank,
using a new gasket. Tighten securely, using Tool C3582.
(2) Slide the fuel tank under the vehicle. Raise the
tank far enough to engage the filler spout with the
opening in the rear panel, and the locator embossments on the floor pan.
(3) Push the tank toward the rear to fully engage
CAP
the filler spout in the opening.
(4) Hold the fuel tank in this position, and place
the hold down straps in position, feeding the attaching studs through holes in the end of the straps. Install the nuts but do not tighten.
(5) Guide the button head of the studs into the
slots in the frame and down into position. Tighten
the hold down strap attaching nuts securely. (60 inIbs).
(6) Install the filler tube mounting screw and tighten securely.
(7) Connect the lead wire to the tank gauge unit
and reconnect the fuel line.
(8) Refill the tank and check for leaks.
FUEL TANK AND FILLFR TUBE (Imperial)
Removal
CAUTION: Disconnect the battery cable at the battery post before disconnecting or connecting the
fuel gauge wire.
ASSY.
FILLER TUBE ASSY.
T A N K ASSEMBLY
V I E W I N DIRECTION O F A R R O W
STUD (2)
NY98B
Fig. 4—Fuel
Tank
Mounting
(Imperial)
MyMopar.com
FUEL TANK
(1) Drain the tank, then disconnect the fuel line
and the lead wire to the fuel gauge unit.
(2) Remove the screw that attaches the filler tube
bracket to the trunk panel.
(3) Push the tube into the tank far enough for the
tube bracket to clear the trunk panel. Push the tube
downward slightly so that the mounting bracket
clears the opening in the panel. Pull the tube out of
the tank, using a suitable tool.
(4) Loosen the nuts that hold the ends of the fuel
tank tie down straps until the button heads can be
disengaged from the floor pan brackets. Disengage
the studs from the brackets, then lower the tank to
the floor.
(5) Remove the tube grommet and inspect. If the
grommet is cracked or deteriorated, install a new
grommet at reassembly.
(6) Remove the gauge tank unit, using spanner
wrench Tool C-3582. Discard the gasket.
Installation
NOTE: When installing a new tube seal, be sure
the diameter of the seal lip is placed in the tank
opening. Do not use any lubricant on the seal at the
tank contact surface.
NOTE: Before installing the tank gauge unit, inspect the condition of the filter on the end of the
suction tube. If the filter is plugged, install a new
filter unit.
(1) Position the fuel tank gauge unit in the tank,
using a new gasket. Using Tool C-3582, tighten the
unit securely.
(2) Install a new filler tube seal in the tank opening, as described above. Lightly coat the inner side
of the seal with lubriplate.
(3) Slide the tank up into position, against the locator embossments on the floor pan. Install the button head studs in the slots in the floor pan brackets.
Snug down the nuts, but do not tighten.
(4) Check and be sure the fuel tank is in the correct position, then tighten the nuts securely.
(5) Connect the fuel line to the tank fitting and
the lead wire to the gauge unit.
(6) Insert the filler tube through the trunk panel
and insert into the seal. Push the tube into the tank
far enough for the tube mounting bracket to clear
the trunk panel opening. Slightly pull the tube out of
the tank until the bracket aligns with the mounting
screw hole. Install the screw and tighten securely.
(7) Refill the tank and inspect for leaks.
FUEL TANK (Station Wagon)
(Fig. 2)
Removal
CAUTION: Be sure the Ignition Switch is turned
14-37
OFF before disconnecting or connecting the gauge
wire.
(1) Drain the tank into safety can, then disconnect
the fuel line and the lead to the gauge unit under the
rear fender, behind the wheel house.
(2) Remove the screws that attach the stone shield
to the lower edge of the wheel house at the rear. Remove the shield.
(3) Remove the button plug at the rear of wheel
house (in front of gauge unit).
(4) Raise the vehicle on a frame type hoist to allow
the rear axle to fall away from the body. Disconnect
the left shock absorber.
(5) Disconnect the rear hangers on both springs
and swing the axle forward, using a suitable support.
(6) Remove the bolt and washer that attaches the
tank hold down strap to the lower support.
(7) Remove the filler cap and the filler tube sleeve
attaching screws. Using a suitable tool, or Tool C3584, put out the filler tube. (In some cases, it will
be necessary to lubricate the rubber grommet to remove the filler tube. Squirt light engine oil (SAE 10)
down the side of the filler tube. Work the filler tube
back and forth to work the oil between the filler tube
and the grommet.) Slide the sleeve out of the body
opening. Remove the gasket from sleeve.
(8) Slide the tank down and out from under the
quarter panel. Reach up under the quarter panel and
disengage the hold down strap from the bracket. If
strap is to be replaced, refer to (Fig. 2).
(9) Loosen the tank gauge unit, using a spanner
wrench Tool C-3582. Slide the unit up and out of the
tank.
Check the condition of the rubber grommet. If
cracked or deteriorated, install a new grommet at reassembly.
Installation
Before installing the fuel gauge assembly, check
the filter on the end of the suction tube. If the filter
is plugged, install a new filter. Position the fuel tank
gauge in the tank, using a new gasket. Tighten securely, using Tool C-3582.
To install the fuel tank, refer to (Fig. 2), then proceed as follows:
(1) Position the fuel tank gauge unit in tank, using
a new gasket. Tighten securely using Tool C-3582.
(2) Slide the hold down strap up under this quarter
panel, inserting the end of strap into slot. Allow the
strap to hang.
(3) Install a new grommet in the neck of the tank.
Refer to (Fig. 2).
(4) Slide the tank up under the quarter panel with
the gauge unit facing front of the vehicle. Push the
tank up into position, with the locator embossments
on the body aligned with those on the tank. Make
sure the filler neck is aligned with theMyMopar.com
opening in top
14-38
FUEL TANK
of the quarter panel. Attach with the strap and bolt.
Do not tighten;
(5) Place a new gasket over the filler tube and
down against the flange. Insert the filler tube down
into neck of tank. Be sure the anchor tab on the tube
is aligned with a screw hole. Install the screws and
tighten securely.
(6) Tighten the fuel tank hold down strap bolt
squarely.
(7) Install the stone shield. Connect fuel line and
lead to gauge unit. Reinstall the button plugs. Refill
the tank and check for leaks.
(8) Swing the rear axle rearward and connect the
rear hangers on both springs.
(9) Connect the left rear shock absorber.
For cleaning the fuel gauge, refer to the "Electrical" Group 8 "Gauges."
NK329
MyMopar.com
THROTTLE LINKAGE
14-39
6
PART
THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (FIG. 1)
(Models A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3 with
413 C u . In. EntjJ
383 or
(1) Apply a thin film of multi-purpose grease on
both ends of the accelerator shaft [1] where it turns in
the bracket, nylon roller [2] where it contacts the pedal, pivot points of both upper [8] and lower [9] transmission linkage bellcranks, also the clipped ends of
transmission linkage rod bearing areas [10] [11].
(2) Disconnect the return spring and slotted transmission rod [6] from the carburetor lever pin. Disconnect the transmission intermediate rod ball socket [7]
from the upper bellcrank ball end.
(3) Disconnect choke [3] at carburetor or block
choke valve in full open position. Open throttle
slightly to release fast idle cam, then return carburetor to curb idle.
(4) With a / i inch diameter rod [12] placed in the
holes provided in the upper engine mounted bellcrank
and lever [8], adjust the length of the intermediate
transmission rod [13] by means of the threaded adjustment at the upper end. The ball socket [7] must line
up with the ball end with the rod held upward against
3
6
the transmission stop [14].
(5) Assemble ball socket [7] to ball end and remove
/ i inch rod [12] from upper bellcrank and lever.
(6) Hold the carburetor rod [15] forward against the
transmission stop [14] and adjust its length by means
of the threaded adjustment so that the rear end of
the slot in the adjusting link [6] just contacts the carburetor lever pin.
(7) Lengthen the carburetor rod [15] two full turns
by turning the slotted link [6].
(8) Assemble slotted link [6] to the carburetor.
(9) Loosen the cable clamp nut [4], then adjust the
position of the cable housing ferrule [5] in the clamp
so that all slack is removed from the cable with the
carburetor at curb idle. To remove slack from the
cable, move the ferrule [5] in the clamp in the direction
away from the carburetor lever.
(10) Back off ferrule [5] Vk inch. This provides %
inch cable slack at idle. Tighten cable clamp nut [4].
(11) Route cable so it does not interfere with the
carburetor rod [15] or upper bellcrank [8] throughout
full throttle linkage travel.
(12) Connect choke rod [3] or remove blocking fixture.
3
6
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14-40
THROTTLE LINKAGE'
MANUAL TRANSMISSION (FIG. 1)
(Models A C - 1 , A C - 2 with 383 or
413
Cu. In. Eng.)
(1) Apply a thin film of multi-purpose grease on
both ends of the accelerator shaft [1] where it turns in
the bracket, and nylon roller [2] where it contacts the
pedal.
(2) Disconnect choke [3] at carburetor or block
choke valve in full open position. Open throttle slightly
to release fast idle cam, then return carburetor to curb
idle.
(3) Loosen the cable clamp nut [4], then adjust the
position of the cable housing ferrule [5] in the clamp
so that the slack is removed from the cable with the
carburetor at curb idle. To remove slack from the
cable move the ferrule [5] in the clamp in the direction
away from the carburetor lever.
(4) Back off ferrule [5] A inch. This provides V4
inch cable slack at idle. Tighten cable clamp nut [4].
(5) Connect choke rod [3] or remove blocking fixture.
X
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION—Imperial (Fig. 2)
(1) Apply a thin film of multi-purpose grease on
both ends of the accelerator shaft [1] where it turns in
the bracket, and nylon roller [7] where it contacts the
pedal.
(2) Disconnect the return spring and slotted transmission rod [5] from the carburetor lever pin.
(3) Disconnect choke [2] at carburetor or block
choke valve in full open position. Open throttle slightly
to release fast idle cam, then return carburetor to curb
idle.
(4) Hold the transmission lever [8] forward against
its stop (rod or lever must not be moved vertically
while holding against the stop) and adjust the length
of the transmission rod by means of the threaded adjustment [5] at the upper end. The rear end of the slot
should contact the carburetor lever pin without exerting any forward force.
(5) Lengthen rod by 1 full turn of the adjustment
[5].
(6) Assemble slotted adjustment [5] to carburetor lever pin and install washer and retainer pin. Assemble
transmission linkage return spring in place. To check
transmission linkage freedom of operation, move
slotted adjuster link [5] fo the full rearward position,
then allow it to return slowly, making sure it returns
to the full forward position.
(7) Loosen cable clamp nut [4], then adjust the position of the cable housing ferrule [3] in the clamp so
that all slack is removed from the cable with the carburetor at curb idle. To remove slack from the cable,
move the ferrule [3] in the clamp in the direction away
from the carburetor lever.
(8) Back off ferrule [3] % inch. This provides V±
inch cable slack at idle. Tighten cable clamp [4] nut.
(9) Route cable so that it does not interfere with
the transmission rod throughout its full travel.
(10) Connect choke rod [2] or remove blocking fixture.
MyMopar.com
'GROUP 16
PROPELLER SHAFf AND UNlWEiSAl JOINTS
CONflNfS
Page
Page
DESCRIPTION A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
PROPELLER SHAFT
......
ANGULARITY A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT A C - 1 , A C - 2 , A C - 3 . . . . . . .
BALL AND TRUNNION UNIVERSAL
JOINT A C - 1 , A C - 2
........
CROSS A N D ROLLER UNIVERSAL
JOINT A C - 1 , AC-2, AC-3
1
1
2
3
5
6
CONSTANT VELOCITY UNIVERSAL
JOINT A C - 3
DESCRIPTION AY-1
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGULARITY AY-1
PROPELLER SHAFT AY-1
CENTER UNIVERSAL JOINT AY-1 . . . . . . . . . .
FRONT UNIVERSAL JOINT AY-1
REAR UNIVERSAL JOINT AY-1
SPECIFICATIONS AND TIGHTENING
(In Rear of Manual)
REFERENCE
Description
All models equipped with manual transmissions
use propeller shafts with a ball and trunnion type
universal joint at the front end (Fig. 1) and a cross
and roller type universal joint at the rear (Fig. 2).
When the vehicle is in motion, the propeller shaft
is free to move fore-and-aft in the front universal
joint to compensate for the movement of the rear
axle. A bellows type rubber dust cover is provided on
the front joint to seal all working parts against road
splash and other foreign matter.
AC-1, AC-2 Models equipped with TorqueFlite
transmissions, use propeller shafts with a cross and
roller type universal joint incorporating an inertia
yoke and an internally splined yoke, at the front end
(Figs. 3 and 4). A cross and roller type universal joint
is used at the rear (Fig. 2).
When the vehicle is in motion, the propeller shaft
is free to move fore-and-aft on the transmission output shaft splines to compensate for movement of the
rear axle. A bellows type rubber seal is used in the
6
8
8
10
10
12
13
opening in the extension housing to exclude road
splash and other foreign matter.
The propeller shaft used on AC-3 models is provided with a constant velocity universal joint at the
front end (Fig. 5). This joint is provided with a sliding type yoke, similar to that used on AC-1, AC-2
models. The rear joint is a single cross and roller
type (Fig. 2).
The constant velocity joint incorporates two single
joints connected with a center yoke. A centering ball
and socket arrangement between the yokes maintains
the relative position of the two joints. The centering
ball causes each of the two joints to operate through
exactly one-half of the complete angle between the
two joints.
The universal joints, sliding spline yoke and centering ball and sockets, are permanently lubricated.
They should be inspected for external seal leakage
every time the car is serviced. The joints should not
be relubricated unless leakage is observed. Refer to
page 10 for servicing instructions.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
PROPELLER SHAFT A N D
UNIVERSAL JOINT
PROPELLER SHAFT
(a) Excessive grease in universal joint dust cover
VIBRATION
(a) Remove all grease and repack joint. Refer to
(AC-1, A C - 2 models).
page 6.
(b) Undercoating or other foreign material on shaft.
(b) Clean shaft a n d wash with solvent.
(c) Loose universal joint flange bolts.
(c) Tighten bolts to specifications.
(d) Loose universal joint flange.
(d) Install new
flange,
if worn, and tighten to
specifications.
(e) Bent universal joint flange.
(e) Install a new flange.
(f) Improper drive line angularity.
(f) Correct propeller shaft angularity.
(g) Rear spring center bolt not in seat.
(g) Loosen U-bolts a n d reseat bolt. Tighten U-
(h) Broken rear spring.
(h) Replace rear spring.
(!)
(i)
bolts to specifications.
Rear springs not matched.
Install correct spring.
MyMopar.com
16 2
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS"
Correction
Possible C a u s e
Condition
(j)
(j)
Worn trunnion pin (AC-1, A C - 2 ) .
Recondition universal joint. Install new pin.
(k) Trunnion pin not centered.
(k) Center trunnion pin or replace. See page
(I) Worn universal joint bearings,
(I)
(m) Worn universal joint body ( A C - 1 , A C - 2 ) .
(m) Recondition universal joint. Replace body,
Recondition universal joint,
(n) Propeller shaft damaged (bent tube) or out of
(n) Install a new propeller shaft.
balance.
(a) Tighten to specifications.
UNIVERSAL J O I N T
(a) Propeller shaft yoke nuts loose.
NOISE
(b) Lack of lubrication.
(b) Inspect for worn parts. Recondition if necessary.
(c) Worn trunnion pin or housing ( A C - 1 , A C - 2 ) .
(c) Replace worn parts a n d recondition joint.
PART 1
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BALL
AND
SPRING^
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGULARITY
/
ROLLER
COVER
GASKET
BUTTONCLAMP
The quiet, smooth operation of the propeller shaft
depends upon proper alignment. Propeller shaft and
rear axle housing angles on all Models may be measured, using propeller shaft alignment gauge Tool C-
COVER v
CLAMP
\
SHAFT
BUTTON
3976.
The vehicle should be in a level position and have
no extra weight except that of a full tank of fuel.
CAUTION: The car must be supported
by the
BREATHER
Fig. J — B a l l and Trunnion
(Manual
Universal
Joint—Front
Transmissions)
SEAL
Fig. 2—Cross and Roller Universal
Joint—Rear
(All
Models)
MyMopar.com
-PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
OUTPUT SHAFT
FRONT YOKE
EXTENSION
INERTIA Y O K E
HOUSING
SHAFT
Fig. 3—Front
NK565
Universal Joint Sliding Yoke
Models
with Automatic
rebound bumper plate bosses (Fig. 6). Adjust the spirit level to center the bubble. The axle pinion housing
should be pointing downward at a slight angle.
NOTE: Each time the gauge is used, the level must
be on the same side of the propeller shaft.
BUSHING
SEAL
16-3
(AC-AC-2
Transmission)
wheels, or front suspension lower control arms and
rear axle housing. Do not use a frame contact hoist
when measuring propeller shaft angularity.
Use a twin post or drive-on hoist, pit or wheel or
frame alignment rack. Measure the level at the body
sill at the center of the front door.
(1) Remove the rebound bumper and plate assembly from the top of the differential carrier.
(2) Hold the gauge on the machined surfaces of the
(3) Hold the gauge on the underside of the propeller shaft near the rear universal joint (Fig. 7) and
note the location of the bubble in the spirit level. The
entire bubble should be within one and three graduations forward from center (Fig. 8).
(4) If it is necessary to adjust the rear joint angle,
loosen all the U-bolts and install two-degree tapered
wedges between both rear springs and axle housing
spring pads (Fig. 9).
(5) If the bubble is forward of the third graduation
(Fig. 8), install the wedges with the thick edge of the
wedge toward the front of the car. If the bubble is
centered, or behind the center graduation (Fig. 10),
install the wedges with the thick edge of the wedge
toward the rear of the car. Tighten the U-bolt nuts to
55 foot-pounds.
(6) Remeasure rear joint angle, reinstall rebound
bumper and plate assembly on the differential carrier.
Tighten the screws to 200 inch-pounds.
PROPELLER SHAFT
Removal—Rear
Joint (All
Models)
BUSHING
A N D ROLLERS
SLIDING
YOKE
BUSHING
A N D ROLLERS
NK995
F i g . 4 — P r o p e l l e r Shaft and Universal
Joint—Front
A C - 1 , A C - 2 (Models
with Automatic
MyMopar.com
Transmission)
16-4
PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
B E A R I N G ASSEMBLY
NK1050
Fig. 5 — P r o p e l l e r Shaft and Front Universal Joint (AC-3 Models)
(1) Remove both rear universal joint roller and
bushing assembly clamps from the drive pinion flange
(Fig. 2).
NOTE: Do n o t disturb the retaining strap used to
h o l d t h e bushing assemblies o n the universal joint
cross.
CAUTION: Do n o t allow the propeller shaft to drop
or hang loose from either joint during removal.
Wire up or otherwise support the loose end of the
shaft to [prevent damage to the joint.
KR705A
Fig. 8—Bubble
Location
(forward
of center)
Fig. 6—Measuring Rear Axle Housing Angle
Fig. 7—Measuring
Propeller Shaft Angle
Fig. 9 — I n s t a l l i n g Tapered
MyMopar.com
Wedge
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Front Joint
7 0 — B u b b l e Location
(Rear of
Center)
Rear Joint (All
Front Joint ( A C - ? , A C - 2 Models
Trunnion Front Joint)
with Ball and
(2) Disconnect the joint from the transmission
flange by removing the attaching bolt nuts (Fig. 1)
and remove the propeller shaft from the vehicle.
Front Joint (All Models
with Sliding
Front
Models)
(1) Install the rear universal joint cross roller bushings in the seats of the pinion yoke. Install the bushing clamps and attaching screws (Fig. 2). Tighten the
screws to 170 inch-pounds.
BALL AND TRUNNION UNIVERSAL JOINT
Front
Disassembly
Yoke)
(3) Slide the propeller shaft with the front yoke
from the transmission output shaft (Fig. 3). Be careful not to damage splines on output shaft or yoke.
Examine the sliding yoke seal for evidence of leakage. If no leakage is evident, do not disturb the seal.
If necessary to replace the seal, refer to Transmission
Group, 21.
CAUTION: It is important to protect the machined
surface of the sliding yoke from damage after the
propeller shaft has been removed.
Installation
Front Joint (AC-1, AC-2 Models
Trunnion Front Joint)
with Ball and
(1) Position the joint on the transmission flange
bolts. Tighten the attaching bolt nuts to 30 footpounds.
UNIVERSAL JOINT
with Sliding
Yoke)
(1) Before installing the propeller shaft clean the
old lubricant from the splines of slip spline yoke (Fig.
4). Lubricate with approximately one-third ounce of
Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2298947,
spread evenly over all the splined area of the yoke.
(2) Engage the yoke splines on the end of the output shaft, being careful not to burr the splines (Fig.
3).
KR 7 0 6 A
Fig.
(All Models
16-5
PROPELLER
(1) Straighten the tabs on the cover (Fig. 1) and remove the cover and gasket. Push the body back and
remove the buttons, springs, ball and rollers and
washers from both ends of the trunnion pin.
(2) Remove the cover clamps and loosen the dust
cover. Remove the cover and polished jute breather
located between the shaft and rear end of the cover.
Save the breather.
(3) Clean and examine the trunnion pin and raceways in the body for excessive wear. If wear is excessive, replace the body.
(4) If either part is to be replaced, use a hydraulic
press and installing and removing jig Tool C-3567.
Cleaning
and
Inspection
(1) Clean all parts in a suitable solvent. If the trunnion pin, body or dust cover have not been removed,
make sure that the body and cover are clean inside
as well as outside.
SHAFT
DUST COVER OR
BOOT
Fig. 1 1 — S l i d i n g Cover
H
Over
the Ballhead
U
9
and Pin
1
0
Fig.
7 2 — W o r k i n g the Dust Cover
through
the Body
MyMopar.com
16-6
PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Assembly
(1) When the trunnion pin and body have not been
removed, a new dust cover can be installed, after
coating all parts with Universal Joint Grease. Without using tools, stretch the cover over the pin (Fig.
11) and work it by hand through the body into position on the shaft (Fig. 12).
(2) If the trunnion pin was removed, install it, or a
new pin in the propeller shaft, using a hydraulic press
and the correct Jig, as specified above. The pin is
properly centered when the press ram contacts the
spacer portion of the Jig (Fig. 13).
(3) Pack the balls and rollers with Universal Joint
Grease, NLGI Grade 2. Install a thrust washer, ball
and rollers, button spring and centering button on
each end of the trunnion pin (Fig. 1).
(4) Position the dust cover on the propeller shaft
with the jute breather parallel to the shaft and extending one-half inch outside the small end of the
cover. Install and tighten the small clamp. Position
the dust cover on the body and install and tighten the
large clamp.
(5) Lubricate the joint with two ounces of Universal Joint Grease NLGI Grade 2, applying it evenly in
both raceways, one-half back of the trunnion pin and
one-half between pin and cover.
NOTE: Two ounces of lubricant would be about Vi
inch deep if placed on the grease cover. Do not use
CROSS AND ROLLER UNIVERSAL JOINT
Disassembly
NOTE: Before disassembling universal joint, mark
yoke, cross and bushings to facilitate reassembly if
inspection discloses parts are serviceable.
(1) Remove the four bushing retainers from the
yoke (Figs. 2 and 4). Press one roller and bushing out
of the yoke by pressing the opposite bushing.
(2) Press out the remaining roller and bushing assembly by pressing on the end of the cross.
(3) Remove the cross assembly from the yoke. Do
not remove seal retainers from the cross. The cross
and retainers are serviced as an assembly.
Cleaning
and
Inspection
(1) Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and dry
with compressed air. Examine bearing surfaces of the
cross. They should be smooth and free from ripples
and pits. If bearing surfaces or seal retainers are
damaged, replace the cross assembly.
(2) Examine the rollers in the bushings. The bearings that have operated on a worn cross should be replaced. The bearings should have a uniformly good
appearance and roll freely inside the bushings.
Assembly
(1) Lubricate the roller and bearing assemblies
Fig. 7 3 — I n s t a l l i n g the Trunnion
Pin
more than the specified amount and do not place
lubricant in the dust cover.
(6) Install a new gasket on the cover and position
cover and gasket on the body with tabs in the grooves
in the body. Bend the tabs to secure the cover to the
body.
with Universal Joint Grease, NLGI Grade 0. Also, fill
the reservoirs in the ends of the cross.
(2) Place the cross in the propeller shaft yoke, observing identification marks made at disassembly. Install the roller and bushing assemblies in the yoke,
matching the identifying marks.
(3) Press both bushing assemblies into the yoke
while guiding the cross into the bushings. Press until
bushing retainers can be installed in the grooves in
the bushings.
(4) Position the remaining two bushing assemblies
on the cross. Install the retainer strap to hold the
bushings on the cross during the installation of the
shaft on the pinion flange. Lightly tap the outer ends
of the bushings while rotating the cross to be sure
the cross and bearings operate freely.
CONSTANT VELOCITY UNIVERSAL JOINT A C - 3
NOTE: Before disassembling joint, mark all parts
for easy identification at reassembly.
Disassembly
(1) Remove four screws and lockwashers which attach the spline yoke to the constant velocity joint and
remove the spline yoke (Fig. 5). Slide the two loose
bearings from the centering socket yoke.
(2) Remove the snap rings securing the two bearings in the front bores of the center
yoke.
MyMopar.com
PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
(3) Press the bearings from the yokes in the following manner: Use a short length of round bar stock
% inch in diameter, or a % inch socket as a remover.
As a receiver on the opposite bearing, use a short
length of pipe or a socket with an inside diameter of
not less than F/ie inch. Clamp the joint, remover and
receiver in a vise and press one of the bearings %inch out of the yoke. See method used in (Fig. 26).
(4) Securely clamp the exposed bearing in the vise
and drive the yoke from the bearing, using a brass
drift. See method used in (Fig. 27). Apply only light
blows on the drift.
(5) Using the same procedure, press the exposed
end of the cross to force the bearing on the opposite
end approximately % inch out of the yoke. Remove
bearing from yoke, using the brass drift as previously
described.
(6) With the propeller shaft firmly held in the vise,
press in on the cross and centering socket yoke and
remove cross and socket yoke assembly from center
yoke.
(7) Remove remaining four bearings from rear
bores of center yoke and propeller shaft yoke in manner described in steps 3, 4, and 5.
(8) Remove cross from propeller shaft yoke. Remove spring from centering stud (Fig. 5).
16-7
package should be used. If the propeller shaft is damaged or the center stud yoke slinger is bent out of
shape, replace the shaft assembly to be assured of a
balanced assembly.
1
Assembly
(1) Position the centering assembly in the yoke
with the large diameter hole up and press it firmly to
its seat.
(2) Apply a film of Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P.
Grease, NLGI grade 2 on inside surface of centering
ball. Install rollers (34 required). Install centering
stud seal in ball.
(3) Install centering ball seal assembly on yoke
and press firmly in place.
(4) Coat the inside surfaces of the bearing races
with Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI
grade 2, and install the rollers (32 are required). Also,
pack the reservoirs in the ends of the cross with the
same lubricant.
(5) Place the cross in the shaft yoke. Insert one
bearing assembly in the bearing bore of the shaft
yoke. Using the bar stock or socket used as a remover
when disassembling the joint, press the bearing into
the bore, at the same time guiding the cross into the
bearing. Press the bearing into the yoke approximately / i inch or far enough to install the snap ring. Install the snap ring. Reverse the position of the yoke
and install the bearing and snap ring in the opposite
bore in the same manner.
(6) Install the two bearings in the rear bores of the
center yoke and on the cross, as previously described.
Install the two snap rings.
(7) Install the centering stud spring on the centering stud, large end first. Apply a film of Automotive
Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI grade 2 on stud.
(8) Install the two slip spline yoke bearing assemblies on the cross and assemble in the bearing bores
of the centering yoke.
(9) Install the centering yoke and cross as an assembly in the center yoke, guiding the centering ball
on the stud.
(10) Apply slight pressure on the cross to align the
cross in the front bores of the center yoke. Insert
one bearing in the yoke and guide the end of the
cross into the bearing.
(11) Press the bearing into the bore and install the
snap ring.
(12) Install the remaining bearing in the center
yoke. Install the snap ring.
(13) Install the slip spline yoke on the constant velocity joints with the screws and lockwashers and
tighten to 300 inch-pounds.
3
6
Centering
Socket Yoke
Assembly
(1) Carefully pry centering ball seal assembly from
socket yoke (Fig. 5).
(2) Remove seal and rollers from centering ball assembly.
(3) Fill cavity behind centering ball and inside the
ball with Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number
2298947.
(4) Insert a rod, slightly smaller than the inside
diameter of the centering ball, into the ball and strike
it smartly with a hammer by the method used in (Fig.
29). The hydraulic force applied by the initial hammer blow will force the ball and retainer from the
yoke.
Cleaning
and
Inspection
(1) Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow
dry.
(2) Carefully examine all parts for excessive wear
or damage. Discard parts that are not serviceable. Examine bearing races for grooves and ridges. Rollers
that have been operating in damaged races should not
be reused. Examine seals on cross assemblies for
damage. Seals are not serviced separately. They are
included in the cross assembly. Replace with parts
contained in replacement packages. All parts in the
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16-8
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
PART 2
TWO-PIECE PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL
JOINTS
MODEL AY-1
Description
The Imperial two-piece propeller shaft has a single
cross and roller universal joint at the front end (Fig.
14) and constant velocity cross and roller universal
joints at the center and rear end (Figs. 15 and 16).
The shaft is supported by a ball bearing and bracket
located forward of the center joint. The bracket
height is non-adjustable.
Centering ball and socket arrangements are incorporated in the center and rear constant velocity
joints (Figs. 17 and 18). The centering balls being
located between the yokes of each joint maintain the
relative position of the two joints. The centering balls
cause each of the two joints to operate through exactly one-half of the complete angle between the two
joints.
When the vehicle is in motion, the shaft yoke on
the center joint is free to slide fore and aft inside the
splines of the front shaft.
The joints and centering ball and sockets are permanently lubricated. They should be inspected for
external leakage whenever the vehicle is serviced.
The joints should not be relubricated unless leakage
is observed. Refer to Paragraph "Propeller Shaft" for
servicing instructions.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGULARITY
When measuring the propeller shaft angularity, the
vehicle should be in a level position and have no extra weight except that of a full tank of fuel.
CAUTION: The vehicle must be supported by the
wheels, or front suspension lower control arms
and rear axle housing. Do not use a frame contact
hoist when measuring propeller shaft angularity.
(1) Remove the differential carrier rebound bumper and bracket assembly, also, remove spacers from
both rear axle control strut hangers (Fig. 19).
(2) Hold alignment gauge C-3976 on the machined
bosses of the differential carrier (Fig. 20). Adjust the
Fig. 16—Rear
Fig. 14—Front
UniversalJoint—Single
(AY-1
Cross
Universal
Joint—Constant
(AY-1
Type
Velocity
Type
REAR
SHAFT
Models)
Models)
CENTER
YOKE
3ALL
SHA.-T
STUD
YOK
CENTERING
BALL
AND
SOCKET
NK1054
Fig. IS—Center
Universal
(AY-1
Joint—Constant
Models)
Velocity
Type
Fig. 17—Center
Joint Centering
Ball
Arrangement
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-PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
36-9
CENTER YOKE
F i g . 21—Measuring
Propeller
Shaft
Angle
KR705A
F i g . 2 2 — B u b b l e L o c a t i o n (Forward
F i g . 19—Rear
Axle Control Strut
gauge spirit level to center the bubble. The axle pinion housing should be pointing downward at a slight
angle. Each time the gauge is used, the level must be
on the same side of the propeller shaft.
(3) Hold the gauge on the underside of the propeller shaft near the rear universal joint (Fig. 21) and
note the location of the bubble in the spirit level. The
entire bubble should be within one and three graduations forward from center (Fig. 22).
(4) If it is necessary to adjust the rear joint angle,
loosen all U-bolt nuts and install two-degree tapered
of center)
wedges between both rear springs and axle housing
spring pads (Fig. 23). If the bubble is forward of the
third graduation (Fig. 22), install the wedges with the
thick edge of the wedge toward the front of the vehicle (Fig. 23).
(5) If the bubble is centered, or behind the center
graduation (Fig. 24), install the wedges with the thick
edge toward the rear of the vehicle. Tighten the U-bolt
nuts to 55 foot-pounds.
(6) Temporarily place two passengers in the front
seat and one in the rear to load the rear springs. In-
SIN
[ADJUSTING SCREW
INK
F i g . 2 0 — M e a s u r i n g Rear Axle Angle
AY-1
1057
Models
Fig. 23—Installing
Tapered
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Wedge
PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
16-10
(2) Remove the stud nuts and washers attaching
the rear universal joint to the rear axle pinion yoke
(Fig. 16). Support the rear end of the shaft.
(3) Remove the bolts, nuts and washers attaching
the center bearing bracket to the frame crossmember
(Fig. 15).
(4) Remove the propeller shaft as an assembly toward the rear of the vehicle.
I' -
KR706A
Installation
Fig. 24—Bubble Location (Rear of Center)
stall sufficient spacers to fill the space between the
strut hanger and frame brackets on both sides (Fig.
19). Install the bracket bolts, nuts and washers and
tighten the nuts to 35 foot-pounds.
(7) Remeasure the rear universal joint angle, then
install the rebound bumper and plate assembly.
Tighten the attaching screws to 200 inch-pounds.
PROPELLER SHAFT
Removal
(1) Insert the forward section of the propeller
shaft over the frame crossmember and connect the
rear universal joint to the pinion yoke. Install the stud
nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts to 300 inchpounds.
(2) Connect the front universal joint to the transmission output shaft yoke. Install the cross and roller bushing clamps, bolts, and washers. Tighten the
bolts to 170 inch-pounds.
(3) Position the center bearing bracket on the
frame crossmember and align with bolt holes. Install
bolts, nuts and washers and tighten nuts to 35 footpounds.
(1) Remove the screws and lockwashers attaching
the cross and roller bushing clamps to the transmission yoke (Fig. 14). Disengage the front universal
joint cross and roller bushings from the yoke.
NOTE: Tie up or otherwise support the front end
of the propeller shaft to prevent damaging the center joint.
CENTER
CENTERING
SEAL
SOCKET
CENTER UNIVERSAL JOINT
NOTE: Mark all parts for easy identification at reassembly before disassembling the joint.
Disassembly
(1) Straighten the staked areas of the center bearing iocknut lockwasher (Fig. 25) and unscrew the
YOKE
SHAFT
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
SPLIT
WASHER
SEAL
STUD
BEARING
LOCK
WASHER
SLINGER
\ WASHER
\
BEARING
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
SPRING
^
^
^
i
/ ,
l
;
^
^
CENTER
BEARING
SEAL
5
w
^ ^ ^ ^ B E A R I N G
^"^?^^
SCREWs
CLAMP
, \
A S S E M B L Y
\
CROSS
TRANSMISSION
YOKE
CENTER
YOKE
SOCKET
ASSEMBLY
CENTER
BEARING
Fig. 2 5 — P r o p e l l e r Shaft and Universal
Velocity
Type (AY-1
Models)
ASSEMBLY'
YOKE
NK1059
Joints—Constant
MyMopar.com
•PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
16-11
locknut from the front propeller shaft.
(2) Slide the front shaft from the rear shaft.
(3) Remove the snap rings securing the roller bearing assemblies in the center socket yoke shaft and
center yoke bores (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: If the joints are heavily coated with
rust or corrosion, apply penetrating oil in the bearing bores before attempting to press out the bearings.
(4) Press the bearing assemblies from the yokes in
the following manner: Use a short length of round
bar stock % inch in diameter, or a % inch socket as
a remover. As a receiver on the opposite bearing, use
a short length of pipe or a socket with an inside diameter of not less than P/ie inch. Clamp the joint with
remover and receiver in a vise (Fig. 26) and press one
of the rear yoke bearings approximately % inch out
of the yoke.
(5) Securely clamp the exposed bearing in the vise
and drive the yoke from the bearing, using a brass
drift (Fig. 27). Apply only light blows on the drift.
(6) Using the same procedure, press the exposed
end of the cross to force the bearing on the opposite
end approximately % inch out of the yoke. Remove
bearing from the yoke, using the brass drift as previously described.
(7) With the propeller shaft firmly held in the vise,
press in on the yoke shaft and work the center joint
off the cross (Fig. 28).
CAUTION: Be careful to avoid damaging cross
seals and center stud yoke slinger.
(8) Remove the remaining set of bearings from the
propeller shaft yoke.
(9) Remove the cross from the propeller shaft
yoke. Remove the centering stud spring from the
propeller shaft (Fig. 25).
(10) Remove the four roller bearing assemblies to
separate the yoke shaft from the center yoke, as previously described.
CENTERING BALL AND SOCKET ASSEMBLY
(1) Carefully pry the centering ball seal assembly
Fig. 27—Removing
Bearing
From Center
Yoke
from the yoke shaft (Fig. 25).
(2) Remove the seal and bearing rollers from the
centering ball.
(3) Fill the cavity behind the centering ball and inside the ball with Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2298947.
(4) Insert a rod, slightly smaller than the inside
diameter of the centering ball, into the ball and
strike it sharply with a hammer (Fig. 29). The hydraulic force applied by the initial hammer blow will
force the ball and retainer assembly from the yoke.
Cleaning
and
Inspection
(1) Clean all the parts in a suitable solvent and
blow dry.
(2) Carefully examine all the parts for excessive
wear or damage. Discard parts that are not serviceable. Examine the bearing races for grooves and
ridges. Rollers that have been operating in damaged
races should not be reused. Examine the seals on the
cross assemblies for damage. Seals are not serviced
separately. They are included in the cross assembly.
Replace with parts contained in replacement pack-
NK1062
Fig. 26—Pressing
Bearing
from Center
Yoke
Fig. 28—Disengaging
Center
Yoke
From Shaft
MyMopar.com
16-12
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
ages. AH parts in the package should be used. If the
propeller shaft is damaged or the center stud yoke
slinger is bent out of shape, replace the shaft assembly to be assured of a balanced assembly.
Assembly
(1) Position the centering assembly in the yoke
shaft with the large diameter hole up and press it
firmly into its seat.
(2) Apply a film of Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P.
Grease, NLGI grade 2 on the inside surface of the
centering ball. Install rollers (34 required). Install the
centering stud seal in the ball.
(3) Install the centering ball seal assembly on the
yoke and press firmly in place.
(4) Coat the inside surfaces of the bearing races
with Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI
grade 2, and install rollers (32 are required). Also,
pack reservoirs in ends of cross with the same lubricant.
(5) Place the cross in the shaft yoke. Insert one
bearing assembly in the bearing bore of the shaft
yoke. Using the bar stock or socket used as a remover
when disassembling the joint, press the bearing into
the bore, at the same time guiding the cross into the
bearing. Press bearing into yoke approximately / i
inch or far enough to install the snap ring. Install the
snap ring. Reverse the position of the yoke and install
the bearing and snap ring in the opposite bore in the
same manner.
(6) Place the center yoke on the cross installed in
the shaft yoke. Install the two bearings and snap
rings in the yoke, as previously described.
(7) Install the cross assembly and two bearing as-
semblies in the propeller shaft yoke, in the same
manner as previously described. Install the snap
rings.
(8) Install the centering stud spring on the centering stud, large end first. Apply a film of Automotive
Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI grade 2 on the stud.
(9) Position the center universal joint on the cross
in the propeller shaft, guiding the centering ball on
the centering stud, applying pressure at the same
time. Work the center yoke over the cross, being
careful not to damage the cross seals.
(10) Install the two bearing assemblies in the rear
bores of the center yoke, as previously described. Install the snap rings.
(11) Coat the splines of the center socket yoke
shaft with approximately one-ounce of Automotive
Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI grade 0.
(12) Slide the yoke shaft splines into splines of the
front propeller shaft, aligning the index clip on the
yoke spline with the wide spline in the propeller
shaft.
(13) Turn the locknut with the seal and split washer on the end of the front propeller shaft. Tighten the
nut to 65 foot-pounds.
FRONT UNIVERSAL JOINT
3
6
NOTE: Before disassembling the joint, mark all the
parts for easy identification at reassembly.
Disassembly
(1) Slide the two transmission yoke bearing assemblies from the cross (Fig. 25).
(2) Remove the snap rings securing the two bearing assemblies in the propeller shaft yoke (Fig. 25).
(3) Remove the two bearing assemblies from the
yoke as described in Center Universal Joint, Disassembly.
Cleaning
and
Inspection
(1) Clean all the parts in a suitable solvent. Carefully examine the bearing surfaces on the cross for
grooves and ridges. Replace unserviceable parts.
Rollers that have been operating on a grooved cross
should not be reused.
Assembly
(1) Coat the inside surfaces of the bearing races
with Universal Joint Grease, NLGI grade 0, and install rollers (32 are required). Also, pack reservoirs in
ends of cross with the same lubricant.
(2) Place the cross in the propeller shaft yoke.
Start one bearing in the yoke. Clamp the propeller
shaft in the vise with round bar stock or socket and
press bearing into yoke approximately / i inch or far
enough to install the snap ring, as described in Center Universal Joint, Assembly. Install snap ring.
(3) Change the position of the shaft and install the
second bearing in the yoke. Install MyMopar.com
the snap ring.
3
6
SHAFT
YOKE
,
"
F i g . 2 9 — R e m o v i n g C e n t e r i n g Ball and S o c k e t
NK1063
Assembly
•PROPELLER SHAFT A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS
REAR UNIVERSAL JOINT
NOTE: Before disassembling the joint mark all
parts for easy identification at reassembly.
Disassembly
(1) Remove the snap rings securing the two bearing assemblies in the rear bores of the center yoke.
(Fig. 25). Remove the bearings as described in Center
Universal Joint, Disassembly.
(2) Remove the cross and center socket yoke as an
assembly. Remove the centering stud spring from the
stud. Slide the bearings and cross from the socket
yoke assembly.
(3) Remove the centering bearing and socket assembly from the yoke, as described in Centering Ball
and Socket Assembly.
(4) Remove the four remaining bearing assemblies
from the center yoke and propeller shaft yoke, as
previously described.
Cleaning
and Inspection
(1) Clean all the parts in a suitable solvent and
blow dry.
(2) Carefully examine all the parts for serviceability as described in Center Universal Joint, Cleaning
and Inspection.
16-13
Assembly
(1) Coat the inside surfaces of the bearing races
with Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P. Grease, NLGI
grade 2, and install rollers (32 are required). Also,
pack reservoirs in ends of crosses with the same lubricant.
(2) Install the cross in the propeller shaft yoke and
install the two bearing assemblies, as described in
Center Universal Joint, Assembly. Install the snap
rings.
(3) Position the center yoke over the cross in the
propeller shaft yoke. Install the two bearings In the
front bores of the yoke. Install the snap rings.
(4) Apply film of Automotive Multi-Purpose E.P.
Grease, NLGI grade 2, on the centering stud.
(5) Install the cross and center socket yoke as an
assembly in the center yoke. Guide the centering ball
on the stud at the same time engaging the cross ends
in the yoke bores.
(6) Apply pressure to the center of the cross to
align the end of the cross in the yoke bore. Start one
bearing in the yoke and press into place, as previously outlined. Install the snap ring. Change position of
the joint in the vise and install the remaining bearing
in the center yoke. Install the snap ring.
MyMopar.com
GROUP 17
SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS
CONIINTS
Page
Page
1
1
3
SHOCK ABSORBERS . . . .
............
2
SPECIFICATIONS
(At Rear of Manual)
TIGHTENING REFERENCE . . . . (At Rear of Manual)
DESCRIPTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
REAR SPRINGS
Description
It is important that spring " U " bolts be inspected
at regular intervals and kept tight to prevent spring
breakage.
The spring shackles should be inspected occasionally to make sure they are tight, but not binding. N o
lubrication of any kind should be used on the rear
springs or rubber bushings.
Zinc Interleaves—Zinc Interleaves are used between the spring leaves for heavy duty suspension
equipped vehicles to help increase spring life. Zinc Interleaves are flat pieces of zinc or metal to help cush-
ion the spring leaves. They are used between each
leaf for heavy duty suspension.
Springs may "bottom" under abnormal loading conditions, particularly when road dips and railroad crossings are encountered at relatively high speeds.
The oriflow shock absorber cannot be refilled or
disassembled. When servicing is required, the shock
absorber must be removed and a new unit installed.
NOTE . Shock absorbers should only be replaced if
they have lost their resistance, are damaged, or if
they drip oil. Evidence of slight oil moisture on outside of shock absorber is not cause to replace them.
8
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Possible
Correction
Cause
S P R I N G S A N D SHOCK
ABSORBERS
SPRINGS S A G OR
(a) Springs sagged or taken set.
(a) Replace spring.
BOTTOM
(b) Broken, bent or weak spring leaves.
(b) Replace spring main leaf, or spring as necessary.
SPRING NOISE
(a) Loose " U " bolts.
(a) Tighten " U " bolt nuts 45 foot-pounds.
(b) Replace bushings and tighten shackle bolt nuts
(b) Loose or worn shackle bushings.
40 foot-pounds.
(c) Install new interliners.
(c) Worn or missing interliners.
(a) Tighten " U " bolt nuts 45 foot-pounds.
SPRING BREAKAGE
STRUT C R A C K I N G
(a) Loose " U " bolts.
(b) Replace spring and shock absorber.
(b) Shock absorber inoperative.
(a) Tighten the strut bushing bolt nut to 65 foot-
(a) Loose strut bushing bolt nut.
(b) Install new bushing. Tighten bushing bolt nut to
pounds.
OR GRUNTING N O I S E
AT REAR O F IMPERIAL
MODELS
65 foot-pounds.
(b) Faulty strut bushing.
(a) Replace bushings.
S H O C K ABSORBER
(a) Bushing excessively worn.
NOISY
(b) Faulty internal valve.
(b) Replace shock absorber.
(c) Air trapped in unit.
(c) Bleed the shock absorber.
(a) Faulty seal.
(a) Replace shock absorber.
S H O C K ABSORBER
DRIPPING OIL
MyMopar.com
17-2
SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS
SERVICE PROCEDURES
SHOCK ABSORBERS
Front Shod Absorber Removal
(1) Remove the nut and washer (Fig. 1) from the up-
per end of the shock absorber control rod.
(2) Compress the shock absorber by pushing the
rod through the shock absorber support.
(3) Remove the lower mounting bolt and remove the
shock absorber.
(4) If the upper bushing appears worn, damaged
or deteriorated remove it by first pressing out the inner steel sleeve, then prying-out or cutting-out the
rubber bushing. (This bushing takes some permanent
set so that once removed it should be replaced.)
(5) If the lower bushing is to be replaced, remove it
from the shock absorber, using Tool C-3553 to press
on the outer sleeve of the bushing (Fig. 2). (Pressing on the inner sleeve will not remove the outer
sleeve from the shock absorber.)
Installation
(1) To aid the installation of the upper bushing, dip
the bushing in water, start it into the frame opening
with a twisting motion, then press or tap it into place.
When installed properly, the groove in the bushing
will index with the opening in the shock absorber tower.
(2) Install the steel sleeve in the bushing.
KP71
Fig. 2 — R e p l a c i n g Shock Absorber
Bushing
(3) Using Tool C-3553, press the lower bushing into
the shock absorber eye until it is centered. Always
press against the outer steel sleeve to avoid damage
to the assembly.
(4) Bleed and test the shock absorber then compress
it to the shortest length.
(5) Install the lower cup washer (concave side up)
on the rod and into position.
(6) Hold the shock absorber in the installed position in the frame. Slide the upper cup washer (concave side down) over piston rod and down onto the
bushing. Install the nut finger tight.
(7) Position the lower end of the shock absorber in
the mounting bracket on the lower control arm, and
NK542
Fig. 1—Front
Shock
Absorber
Fig. 3—Rear
Shock
Absorber
MyMopar.com
SPRINGS A N D SHOCK ABSORBERS
17-3
install the retaining bolt, lockwasher, and nut. Tighten the nut to 55 foot-pounds. While holding the piston rod, tighten the piston rod nut to 25 foot-pounds.
Rear Shock Absorber
Replacement
On Imperial models, the rear shock absorbers are
mounted on studs at the upper and lower ends. On
Chrysler models, the shock absorbers are attached to
studs on the lower ends and by bolts at the upper
ends (Fig. 3).
(1) Remove nuts and washers attaching the shock
absorbers.
(2) Inspect the bushings for wear or damage and
replace as necessary.
(3) Test and bleed the shock absorber.
(4) Position the shock absorber on the mounting
studs or bolts and install the cupped washers and nuts.
SPRING
SP-3178
N Y 204
F i g . 4—Spring
Pivot Bushing
Replacement
Do not tighten the nuts until the full weight of the
vehicle is on the wheels.
(5) Tighten the lower stud nut 50 foot-pounds and
the upper nuts 70 foot-pounds.
Testing and Bleeding
Shock
Absorbers
Hold the shock absorber in an upright position with
the dust shield or piston rod section upward. Extend
the shock absorber to the maximum length and turn
it upside down. Compress the shock absorber. Repeat
this procedure to make sure all air is removed from
sorbers are fully extended.
(2) Remove the alignment clips from the spring.
(3) Separate the spring leaves (Fig. 5) and remove
the interliners.
Installation
(1) With the leaves separated, be sure the spring
leaf area where the interliner makes contact, is clean
and smooth.
the unit. Do not extend shock absorber when it is in
the upside down or in a horizontal position, otherwise air will enter the cylinder tube.
A steady resistance should be felt when the shock
absorber is extended or compressed. If no resistance
is felt, replace the shock absorber.
REAR SPRINGS
Front Pivot Bushing
Replacement
Removal of the old bushing and installation of the
new bushing is performed in one operation using
Tool C-3709 (Fig. 4).
(1) On bolt SP-3178, position the bearing washer
SP-92, thrust bearing SP-332, bushing adapter SP-3179
(flat side of adapter next to the washer), spring leaf
bushing and remover adapter SP-3180.
(2) Insert bolt SP-3178 through the bushing to be
removed.
(3) Install adapter SP-3242 on bolt SP-3178. The
slot in adapter SP-3242 should be visible to aid in
the correct positioning of the bushing as it is being
installed.
(4) Tighten bolt SP-3178 to remove the old bushing and install the new bushing. Remove the tool after
the new bushing has been correctly positioned.
61x269B
F i g . 5 — S e p a r a t i n g Spring
Leaves
REAR SPRING INTERLINERS
;;
61 x 2 7 0 B
Removal
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle until the shock ab-
F i g . 6 — P o s i t i o n i n g the
Interliner
MyMopar.com
17-4
SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS
(2) Insert the interliner between the spring leaves
(Fig. 6) until the fasteners are aligned with the
holes.
(3) Force the fastener into the hole in the spring
leaf (Fig. 7).
(4) Position the aligning clip (Fig. 8) and tighten
the retainer nut. Do not lubricate the rear springs.
The interliners act as the friction control and need
no lubrication.
ZINC INTERLEAF REPLACEMENT (Heavy Duty
Suspension—AC-1, A C - 2 , A C - 3 Models)
(1) Remove the rear spring.
(2) Remove the center bolt from the spring and separate the leaves.
(3) Install the zinc interleaves between the spring
leaves and install the center bolt.
(4) Tighten the center bolt to 10 foot-pounds.
Measuring
Rear Spring
Height
When measuring the rear spring heights, the vehicle
should be placed on a level floor, have the correct
front suspension height, the correct tire pressures, no
passenger or luggage compartment load and a full
tank of fuel.
(1) Jounce the vehicle several times (front bumper
first). Release the bumpers at the same point in each
cycle.
(2) Measure the shortest distance from the highest
point on the underside of the rear axle bumper strap
(at the rear of the bumper) to the top of the axle housing.
(3) Measure both the right and left sides.
If these measurements vary by more than % inch
(from side to side), it is an indication that one of the
rear springs may need replacing. It is normal for rear
springs to show some reverse arch, even with no load,
so appearance alone should not be the reason for
spring replacement.
Rear Spring
61 x 2 7 2 B
F i g . 8—Positioning
Clip
floor stands and jack pressure under the axle housing, disconnect the shock absorbers from the studs on
the spring plates.
(2) Lower the jack until it supports only the weight
of the axle housing and remove the rear spring rear
shackle (Fig. 9).
(3) Loosen the rear spring pivot bolt nut. The nut
should be backed off until it is retained on the pivot
bolt by two or three threads.
(4) Using a pry bar between the pivot bolt nut and
the body frame, force the pivot bolt outward until the
nut contacts the spring mounting bracket.
(5) Remove the pivot bolt nut and using a suitable
tool, force the. pivot bolt out of the spring.
(6) Remove the spring " U " bolts and the spring.
Rear Spring
Installation
(1) Position the springs in their respective front
NUT
INSERT
C.._
/
BUSHING
PLATE
STATION
WAGON
Removal
Alignment
SPRING
SHACKLE
(1) With the vehicle body frame supported on the
SHACKLE
BUSHING
BUSHING
SCREW
NK536
61 x 271B
Fig. 7—Installing
Interliner
Fastener
Fig. 9 — R e a r Spring
Assembly
MyMopar.com
SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS
hangers and install the pivot bolts and nuts (finger
tight only).
(2) Install the spring shackles and nuts.
(3) Install the spring " U " bolts and nuts.
(4) Tighten the spring U-bolt nuts 50 foot-pounds
and shackle bolt nuts 40 foot-pounds.
(5) Connect the shock absorbers.
17-5
(6) Remove the vehicle floor stands and with the
vehicle weight on the wheels, tighten the front pivot
bolt to 125 foot-pounds torque.
(7) The bushings and shackles should not be lubricated at any time. Measure the vehicle curb height
whenever a rear spring or shackle has been replaced.
MyMopar.com
GROUP 19
STEERING (MANUAL, POWER AND PUMPS)
CONTENTS
Page
Page
4
1
4
10
POWER STEERING PUMP
23
SPECIFICATIONS AND
TIGHTENING REFERENCE . . In Rear of Manual
DESCRIPTION
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
MANUAL STEERING GEAR
POWER STEERING GEAR
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
Possible Cause
Correction
MANUAL STEERING GEAR
HARD STEERING
(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.
(b) Insufficient lubricant in the steering gear housing
(b) Lubricate as necessary.
or in steering linkage.
(c) Steering gear shaft adjusted too tight.
(c) Adjust according to instructions.
(d) Front wheels out of line
(d) Align the wheels. See "Front Suspension".
(e) Steering column misaligned.
(e) See "Steering Column—Manual Transmission".
PULL T O O N E SIDE
(a) Incorrect tire pressure.
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.
(Tendency of the Vehicle
(b) Wheel bearings improperly adjusted.
(b) See "Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment".
to veer in one direction
(c) Dragging brakes.
(c) Inspect for weak, or broken brake shoe spring,
(d) Improper caster and camber.
(d) See "Front Wheel
Alignment".
(e) Incorrect toe-in.
(e) See "Front Wheel
Alignment".
only)
binding pedal.
(f)
G r e a s e , dirt oil or brake fluid on brake linings.
(g) Front and rear wheels out of alignment.
(f)
Inspect, replace and adjust as necessary.
(g) Align the front wheels. See "Front Suspension".
(h) Broken or sagging rear springs.
(h) Replace rear springs.
(i)
(i)
Bent suspension parts.
Replace parts necessary.
WHEEL TRAMP
(a) Incorrect tire pressure.
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.
(Excessive Vertical
(b) Improper balance of wheels, tires and brake
(b) Balance
Motion of Wheels)
EXCESSIVE PLAY OR
necessary. See
"Wheels
and
drums.
(c) Loose tie rod ends or steering connections.
(c) Inspect and repair as necessary.
(d) Worn or inoperative shock absorbers.
(d) Replace shock absorbers as necessary.
(a) Steering gear shaft adjusted too loose or badly
(a) Replace worn parts and adjust according to
L O O S E N E S S IN THE
STEERING WHEEL
as
Tires."
instructions.
worn.
(b) Steering linkage loose or worn.
(b) Replace worn parts. See "Front Wheel Align-
(c) Front wheel bearings improperly adjusted.
(c) Adjust according to instructions.
(d) Steering arm loose on steering gear shaft.
(d) Inspect for damage
ment."
to the gear shaft
and
steering arm, replace parts as necessary.
(e) Steering gear housing attaching bolts loose.
(e) Tighten attaching bolts to specifications.
(f)
(f)
Steering arms loose at steering knuckles.
(g) Worn ball joints.
Tighten according to torque specifications.
(g) Replace the ball joints as necessary. See "Front
Suspension".
POWER STEERING GEAR
HARD STEERING
(a) Tires not properly inflated.
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.
(b) Low oil level in pump reservoir (usually a c -
(b) See "Fluid Level", Power Steering Pump.
companied by pump noise).
MyMopar.com
19-2
DIAGNOSIS—STEERING
Condition
Correction
Possible C a u s e
POWER STEERING
Continued
(c) Loose pump belt.
(c) See "Belt Adjustment Engine Cooling—Group
7".
(d) Improper
caster and
camber.
(d) See "Front Wheel Alignment". Front Suspension.
(e) Power steering output low.
(e) Perform the "Pump Pressure a n d Flow Tests".
NOTE: When the power steering pump fails to
give proper steering, assist, the trouble is usually caused by fouling of the flow control valve
causing it to stick in the open or "by p a s s "
position. This fouling can be caused by gum
deposits, pieces of
broken
slipped springs,
burrs, or foreign material (pieces or rubber,
dirt or machine chips). If no fouling is evident,
or if the flow control Valve contains pieces of
coiled wire (broken slipper spring), the pump
should be disassembled for possible slipper
spring replacement.
(f)
Steering column shaft or bearing binding.
(f)
Repair as necessary.
(g) Steering linkage binding.
(g) Repair and lubricate as necessary.
(h) Steering gear malfunctions.
(h) Adjust or repair as follows:
1. G e a r shaft adjustment too tight.
1. See " G e a r Shaft Adjustment",
2. Damaged valve lever.
2. Remove steering gear, repair as necessary.
3. External leakage.
3. Inspect for leakage at the lower sector shaft
oil seal; the sector shaft cover " O " ring.
4. Excessive internal leakage.
4. Remove steering gear and repair as necessary.
POOR RECOVERY
(a) Tires not properly
F R O M TURNS
(b) Steering linkage binding.
(b) Repair and lubricate as necessary.
(c) Improper wheel alignment.
(c) See "Front Wheel Alignment", Front Suspen-
(d) Damaged or worn steering tube bearing.
(d) Remove jacket tube and replace bearings.
(e) Steering wheel
(e) See " G e a r Installation".
inflated,
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.
sion.
column jacket a n d
steering
nut improperly aligned.
(f)
Steering gear malfunctions.
(f)
Adjust or repair as follows:
1 . Improper gear shaft adjustment.
1. See " G e a r Shaft Adjustment",
2. Column support spanner nut loose.
2. Remove steering gear, disassemble, inspect
and reassemble as outlined in this section.
3. Damaged valve lever.
3. Remove steering gear and repair as necessary.
4. Improper worm thrust bearing adjustment.
4. Remove steering gear, disassemble, inspect
5. Damaged cylinder head worm seal ring or
5. See"Steering G e a r
faulty worm piston ring.
a n d Inspection", replace parts as necessary.
and reassemble. " G e a r Reconditioning"
Removal, Disassembly
See " G e a r Reconditioning".
6.
Burrs or nicks in the reaction ring grooves
6. Remove steering gear and repair as neces-
in the cylinder h e a d or column support.
sary.
7. Dirt or chips in the steering gear unit.
7. Remove the steering gear, disassemble completely, clean in a clean solvent, inspect and
make repairs as necessary.
8. Rough or catchy worm in the piston assembly,
8. Replace the worm
and
piston assembly.
See " G e a r Reconditioning."
LEADS T O EITHER
SIDE
(a) Tires not properly inflated.
(a) Inflate tires to recommended pressures; See
"Wheels and Tires".
MyMopar.com
—DIAGNOSIS—STEERING
Condition
POWER STEERING
Possible C a u s e
(b) Improper wheel alignment.
1 f-3
Correction
(b) See "Front Suspension, Front Wheel
(Continued!
Align-
ment".
(c) Valve body out of adjustment.
(c) If vehicle leads to the left, move the steering
valve housing d o w n on the steering housing.
If vehicle leads to the right, move the steering
valve housing up on the steering housing.
(d) Valve lever damaged.
(d) Remove the steering gear a n d replace or re-
(e) Column support spanner nut loose.
(e) Remove steering gear and repair as necessary.
EXCESSIVE STEERING
(a) Improper gear shaft adjustment.
WHEEL FREE-PLAY
(b) Column support spanner nut loose.
(a) See " G e a r Shaft Adjustment".
(b) Remove steering gear, disassemble, inspect and
(c) Improper worm thrust bearing adjustment.
(c) Remove steering gear, disassemble, inspect and
(d) Coupling loose on the worm shaft.
(d) Inspect the wormshaft splines for wear.
(a) Oil leaking past worm shaft oil seal ring.
(a) Remove steering gear, disassemble, inspect a n d
(b) Broken or worn ring on worm piston.
(b) See " G e a r Reconditioning"
(c) Piston end plug loose.
(c) Replace the worm and piston assembly.
(d) Reaction seal missing.
(d) Remove the steering gear and repair as neces-
pair as necessary.
reassemble.
reassemble.
LACK O F ASSIST
(One Direction)
replace the parts as necessary.
sary
LACK O F ASSIST
(a) Pump belt slipping.
(a) See "Belt Adjustment—Cooling—Group
(Both
(b) Pump output low.
(b) Perform the "Pump Pressure and Flow Tests",
Directions)
7".
also refer to correction .(e) in Diagnosis under
"Hard Steering".
(c) Broken or worn ring on worm piston.
(c) See " G e a r Reconditioning".
(d) Piston end plug loose.
(d) Replace the worm and piston assembly.
(e) Internal
(e) Replace the steering gear valve body assem-
leakage in the steering gear valve
body.
bly.
TEMPORARY
(a) Oil level low in pump reservoir.
(a) See "Fluid Level", Power Steering Pump.
INCREASE IN FRONT
(b) Loose pump belts.
(b) See "Belt Adjustment—Cooling—Group
W H E N TURNING
(c) Oil on pump belt.
(c) Replace the belt and adjust.
STEERING W H E E L
(d) Binding steering linkage.
(d) Lubricate and repair a s necessary.
T O THE RIGHT OR LEFT
(e) Engine idle too slow.
(e) See "Fuel Specifications".
(f)
Air in the system.
(g) Power steering pump output low.
(h) G e a r malfunction.
7".
(f) Work steering wheel from right to left until the
air is expelled.
(g) See Diagnosis "Hard Steering" correction (e).
(h) Adjust and repair as outlined under "Hard
Steering"—condition and correction (g).
NOISES
(a) Buzzing noise in neutral and stops when the
(a) Noisy pump, make pressure test and repair as
steering wheel is turned.
necessary. Damaged hydraulic lines or interference of hoses with components attached to
fender
shield. Air
in system; work
steering
wheel from right to left until the air is expelled,
(b) Chuckling noise. Causes as follows:
(b) Correct as follows:
1. Improper gear shaft adjustment.
1. See " G e a r Shaft Adjustment".
2. Improper worm shaft thrust bearing adjustment.
2. Remove steering gear, disassemble, inspect
and
reassemble. See "Worm
Bearing Pre-
Load".
MyMopar.com
19-4
MANUAL
STEERING GEARPossible Cause
Condition
POWER STEERING
Correction
3. Coupling loose on the worm shaft.
3. Inspect worm shaft splines for wear. Inspect
4. Worn worm and piston assembly.
4. Replace worm and piston assembly.
(Continued!
bolt.
NOISES
(c) Metallic clatter or tapping noise.
(c) Replace the back pressure valve cushion.
(d) Knocking condition at the bracket stop
(d) Rubber
when the engine is running.
stop
worn
or
missing from
pump
bracket.
(e) Loose pump belt.
(e) Belt not properly adjusted or worn to the extent that belt tension cannot be properly adjusted.
POWER STEERING PUMP
L O W OIL PUMP
(a) Pump belt loose.
(a) See "Engine Cooling—Group 7."
PRESSURE
(b) Pump pulley loose.
(b) Replace the
pulley,
measure the
pump
di-
ameters as follows:
Shaft diameter .8120-.8125 Pulley inside diameter .8095-.8105.
If shaft is damaged, re-
place pump.
(c) Oil level low in pump reservoir.
(c) See "Fluid Level."
(d) Pressure relief valve spring weak, or relief
(d) Replace the relief valve and perform "Pump
valve stuck in open position.
Pressure Test."
(e) Flow control valve stuck.
(e) Repair as necessary. Refer to "Flow Control
Valve Removal and Installation and Correction
under Diagnosis "Hard Steering."
(f)
Worn pump rotor, slippers, or broken and
(f)
distorted springs.
HIGH PUMP
as necessary. See
Diagnosis
"Hard
Steering" Correction (e).
(a) Wrong relief valve.
(a) Replace relief valve and perform "Pump Pres-
(b) Relief valve clogged with foreign matter (dirt,
(b) Replace relief valve and perform "Pump Pres-
sure Test."
PRESSURE
sure Test."
metal chips, etc.)
LEAKS
Repair
(a) Reservoir over-filled. N O T E : Operating the
(a) See "Fluid Level."
steering gear manually when the engine is
not running will cause the steering gear to
displace the fluid from the steering gear
housing which will then be forced out of
the pump filler c a p vent, giving a false indication of fluid leakage.
(b) Pressure a n d return hose connections and
(b) Tighten all fittings, check hose for
deteriora-
tion: replace any faulty hoses. If the discharge
fittings.
fitting is leaking; See "Discharge Fitting Ferrule
Replacement."
(c) Reservoir to-pump-body "O"
ring or
(c) Replace the reservoir mounting screws.
mounting screws.
(d) Replace oil seal.
(d) Pump shaft oil seal.
MANUAL STEERING GEAR
AC-l
f
AND
;-2 MODELS
Description
The manual steering gear (Fig. 1) is designed
provide easy steering with a minimum of friction
the steering gear. A ball nut travels up or down
the wormshaft, riding on recirculating balls acting
a screw thread.
to
in
on
as
The wormshaft and ball nut assembly is supported
in the gear housing by an adjustable ball thrust type
upper and lower bearing. The lower bearing cup is
pressed into the gear housing, and the upper bearing
cup is pressed into the wormshaft bearing adjuster.
MyMopar.com
-MANUAL STEEI1NG GEA1
19-5
SER¥iCI P i O C l D U i l S
Adjustments
Two adjustments are provided in the steering gear
(Fig. 2). The worm-bearing pre-load adjustmen, and
the ball nut rack sector gear mesh adjustment.
Before correct adjustment can be made at ball nut
rack and sector gear, it must be determined that worm
bearing pre-load is properly adjusted.
The worm-bearing pre-load adjustment is controlled
by the worm thrust bearing adjuster which threads
into the housing at the upper end of the wormshaft.
The cross shaft is integral with the sector gear and
the sector gear meshes with the rack teeth on the recirculating ball nut. Adjustment at this point is controlled by the cross shaft adjusting screw which extends through the housing cover.
Worm Bearing
Pre-load
(1) Disconnect the steering gear arm from the
cross shaft with Tool C-3646 (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove the horn button or horn ring.
(3) Loosen the cross shaft adjusting screw lock nut,
and back out the adjusting screw approximately two
turns. This will relieve any friction load which may
be present at the closely meshed ball nut rack and
sector gear teeth.
(4) Turn the steering wheel two complete turns
from the straight ahead position, and place the torque
wrench Tool C-3380 on the steering shaft nut.
(5) Rotate the steering shaft at least one turn toward the straight ahead position, while testing the
rotating torque with the torque wrench.
/STEERING
The torque required to keep the wheel moving
should be between IV2 and W2 inch-pounds. If the
reading is not within these limits, the adjustment can
be made in or out of the vehicle as follows:
(a) Loosen the adjuster lock nut.
(b) Use the adjuster wrench from Tool C-3884 set
and turn the adjuster clockwise to increase the preload, or counterclockwise to decrease the pre-load.
(c) While holding the adjuster from turning, tighten lock nut securely. Retest worm bearing pre-load.
Ball
Nut Rack and Sector
Mesh
The cross shaft adjusting screw, located in the
housing cover, raises or lowers the shaft to provide
the proper mesh load between the tapered teeth of
the sector gear and the tapered teeth of the ball nut.
NOTE: This adjustment can be accurately made
only after the proper worm bearing pre-load has
been established.
(1) Turn the steering wheel gently from one stop
all the way to the other, carefully counting the number of turns. Turn the steering wheel back exactly
half way, to the center position.
(2) Turn the cross shaft adjusting screw clockwise
to take out all lash between the ball nut rack and
sector gear teeth, then tighten the adjusting screw
lock nut to 35 foot-pounds.
(3) Turn the steering wheel about V* turn away
from the center or "high spot" position. Then, using
torque wrench Tool C-3380, at the steering wheel nut,
measure the torque required to rotate the steering
wheel through the high spot at the center position.
SHAFT
FILLER
DIE-CAST
A L U M I N U M HOUSING
PLUG
CROSS
SHAFT
ADJUSTMENT
BALL
BEARINGS
UNIVERSAL
COUPLING
If
CROSS
SHAFT
GEAR C L E A R A N C E
ADJUSTING S C R E W
WORM
SHAFT
WORM
SHAFT
BEARING
RECIRCULATINGB A L L NUT
CROSS
A
ADJUSTMENT
SHAFT
HOLDING
FIXTURE
62x458
Fig. I—Steering
Gear
Cross
Section
Fig. 2—Gear
Adjustment
Locations
MyMopar.com
19-6
MANUAL STEERING ©EAR
STEERING
- - — G E A R
STEERING
ARM,
NK456
f
j
II o
mm'
^ T O O L
Fig. 4—Removing
"^^^
Fig. 3 — R e m o v i n g the Steering
NY1218
Gear
Arm
The reading should be between 8V4 and l l ^ inchpounds. This represents the total of the worm shaft
bearing pre-load and the ball nut rack and sector gear
mesh load. Readjust the cross shaft adjustment screw
if necessary, to obtain the proper torque reading.
(4) After the adjustments have been completed,
place the front wheels in a straight ahead position,
and with the steering gear and steering wheel centered, install the steering arm on the cross shaft.
(5) Tighten the steering arm retaining nut to 120
foot-pounds.
1
Gear Removal
NOTE: The manual steering gear can be removed
without removing the steering column assembly.
(1) Remove the steering arm retaining nut. Remove the arm with Tool C-3646 (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove the bolt from the coupling clamp at
the upper end of the steering gear wormshaft.
(3) To provide sufficient clearance at the coupling,
loosen the column jacket to instrument panel clamp
bolts sufficient to disengage the tab on the clamp
from the slot in the column jacket. Slide the column
assembly up far enough to disengage the coupling
from the wormshaft.
Cross
Shaft
steering gear before disassembly to avoid contaminating the wormshaft and ball nut assembly with dirt or
grit.
(1) Attach the steering gear to holding fixture, Tool
C-3323 and install holding fixture in a vise (Fig. 2).
(2) Loosen the cross shaft adjusting screw lock nut,
and back out the screw about two turns to relieve the
load caused by close mesh between the ball nut rack
and sector gear teeth.
NOTE: Remove the cross shaft seal as outlined in
"Cross Shaft Oil Seal Replacement."
(3) Position the steering wormshaft in the straightahead position.
(4) Remove the bolts from the cross shaft cover,
then slowly remove the cross shaft while sliding the
arbor Tool C-3786 into the housing (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove the lock nut from the cross shaft adjusting screw and remove the screw from the cover
by turning the screw clockwise.
(6) Slide the adjustment screw and shim out of the
slot in the end of the cross shaft.
(7) Loosen the wormshaft bearing adjuster lock
nut with a soft drift and remove the lock nut. Hold
the wormshaft from turning while unscrewing the adjuster, using wrench from Tool Set C-3884. (Fig. 5).
(8) Slide the worm shaft adjuster off the shaft.
CAUTION: The adjuster must be handled carefully
to avoid damage to the aluminum threads.
CAUTION: Care is required to avoid scratching the
column jacket when sliding it up and down in the
clamp assemblies.
It is not necessary to disconnect the shift linkage
on models equipped with manual transmission, or to
remove the floor plate to floor pan bolts when removing the steering gear. If the floor plate bolts are loosened, it will be necessary to realign the steering column when reinstalling the gear.
(4) Remove three steering gear housing mounting
bolts and remove steering gear from under vehicle.
Gear Reconditioning
Thoroughly clean the entire outside surface of the
Fig
5—Removing
Worm Shaft
Adjuster
MyMopar.com
•MANUAL STEEI1NG GEAR
If-7
CAUTION: Place the ball nut and wormshaft assembly in a clean place, and cover it to keep it
clean.
(10) Remove the cross shaft needle bearing by
placing the steering gear housing in an arbor press;
insert Tool C-3786 in lower end of housing (Fig. 7)
and press both bearings through the housing.
NOTE: The cross shaft cover assembly, including a
needle bearing or bushing, is serviced as an assembly.
Fig. 6—Removing
Worm Shaft and Ball Nut
Assembly
NOTE: Be careful that the ball nut does not run
down to either end of the wormshaft as the ball
guide ends can be damaged if the ball nut is allowed to rotate until stopped at the end of the
worm.
(9) Carefully remove worm and ball nut assembly
(Fig. 6).
The ball nut and wormshaft are serviced as an assembly only, and are not to be disassembled. Do not
remove or disturb the ball return guides.
(11) Remove the wormshaft oil seal from the wormshaft bearing adjuster, by inserting a blunt punch behind the seal and tap alternately on each side of the
seal until the seal is driven out of the adjuster.
(12) Remove the wormshaft spacer and upper bearing cup in the same manner. However, this must be
done carefully to avoid cocking the bearing cup and
distorting the adjuster counterbore.
(13) Remove the lower cup if replacement is necessary by positioning the locking puller head jaws of
puller Tool C-3868 (Fig. 8) behind the bearing cup and
expanding the puller head by pressing down on the
center plunger of tool. Withdraw the bearing cup by
turning the puller screw nut in a clockwise direction
while holding the center screw.
(14) Wash all parts in clean solvent and dry with
compressed air.
(15) Test the operation of the ball nut assembly on
the wormshaft. If the ball nut does not travel smoothly and freely on the wormshaft and there is roughness or binding, the assembly must be replaced.
(16) Extreme care is necessary when handling the
aluminum worm bearing adjuster to avoid damaging
the threads. It is equally important to avoid damaging
TOOL
F i g . 7—Removing
Outer
Cross Shaft Inner
Bearings
C-3868
and
Fig. 8—Removing
Lower Bearing
Cup
MyMopar.com
19-8
M A N U A L STEERING GEAR
the mating threads in the gear housing. The wormshaft adjuster must Never be screwed into the housing without lubrication, or when threads are dirty or
damaged. These precautions must be taken to avoid
"picking up" the threads and ruining the housing and/
or the wormshaft bearing adjuster.
(17) Inspect the cross shaft for wear and check fit
of the shaft in the housing bearings. Inspect the fit
of the shaft pilot in its housing bearing in the cover.
Make sure the wormshaft has not been bent or otherwise damaged.
(18) The cross shaft and wormshaft oil seals should
be replaced when the unit is reconditioned.
(19) Install the cross shaft outer needle bearing by
placing the bearing on end of Tool C-3333 with the
adapter ring. Press the bearing into the housing to
% inch below the end of the bore to provide space
for the oil seal.
(20) Install the inner needle bearing by placing
bearing on Tool C-3333 (Fig. 9). Press the bearing into
the inside end of the housing bore flush with the inside end of the bore surface.
(21) Install the wormshaft bearing cups, position
the bearing cup and spacer into the adjuster nut,
and press them in place with Tool C-3865 (Figs. 10
and 11).
(22) Install the wormshaft oil seal by positioning
the seal in the wormshaft adjuster with the lip of seal
up. Drive the seal into place with a suitable sleeve so
it is slightly below the end of the bore in the adjuster.
(23) Apply a coating of steering gear lubricant to
all moving parts during assembly, also place lubricant
on and around oil seal lips.
(24) Clamp the holding fixture and housing in a
vise with the bearing adjuster opening upward.
(25) Place a thrust bearing in the lower cup in the
housing.
(26) Hold the ball nut from turning (Fig. 6), and
insert the wormshaft and ball nut assembly into the
housing with the end of the worm resting in the
thrust bearing.
TOOL
Fig.
7 0 — I n s t a l l i n g Wormshaft
Lower
Bearing
Cup
(27) Place the upper thrust bearing on the wormshaft.
Thoroughly lubricate the threads on the adjuster
and the threads in the housing.
(28) Place a protective sleeve of plastic tape over
the wormshaft splines so that the splines do not damage seal and slide adjuster assembly over shaft.
(29) Thread the adjuster into the steering housing,
and with Tool wrench C-3884 and splined nut set,
tighten the adjuster to 50 foot-pounds while rotating
the wormshaft. This is done to effectively seat the
bearings.
(30) Loosen the adjuster so no bearing preload exists. Then, using torque wrench Tool C-3380, adjust
the wormshaft bearing preload from lVs to 4 % inchpounds.
C-3333
NK458
Fig. 9 — P r e s s i n g inner
Bearing
Into
Housing
Fig.
11—Installing
Wormshaft
Upper
Bearing
Cup
MyMopar.com
MANUAL STEERING GEAR
(31) After adjusting the preload, tighten the bearing adjuster lock nut, and then retest to be sure the
preload remains between lVk and 4V2 inch-pounds.
(32) Before installing the cross shaft, pack the
wormshaft cavities in the housing above and below
the ball nut with steering gear lubricant. Use steering gear lubricant whenever possible, but if not
available, a good grade of multi-purpose lubricant
may be used. Do not use gear oil. When the gear is
properly packed with steering gear lubricant it will
contain eleven fluid ounces of lubricant, and the level
of the lubricant will be at the top of the worm.
(33) Slide the cross shaft adjusting screw and shim
into the slot in the end of the shaft.
(34) Test the end clearance (Fig. 12). The screw
must be free to turn with no perceptible end play to
.004 inch loose. Three different thickness shims are
available to obtain the specified clearance.
(35) Start the cross shaft and adjuster screw into
bearing in the housing cover. Then, using a screw
driver through the hole in the cover, turn the screw
counterclockwise to pull the shaft into the cover.
(36) Install the adjusting screw lock nut, but do
not tighten at this time.
(37) Rotate wormshaft to centralize ball nut.
(38) Place a new cover gasket on housing cover.
(39) Carefully install the cross shaft and cover assembly into the steering gear housing (Fig. 4).
The cross shaft and sector teeth should be coated
with the steering gear lubricant before installing the
cross shaft in the housing.
(40) Make certain some lash exists between the
cross shaft sector teeth and the ball nut rack then install and tighten the cover bolts to 25 foot-pounds.
Gear
Installation
(1) Slide the steering column assembly upward to
where the column coupling will clear the end of the
wormshaft and permit installation of the steering
gear. Also make sure the clamp is in place on the
steering shaft coupling.
(2) Position the steering gear in position from underneath the vehicle and install the three mounting
bolts.
(3) Tighten mounting bolts to 80 foot-pounds.
(4) With the master serration on the wormshaft,
aligned with the notch mark on the coupling housing,
slide the steering column assembly down far enough
to engage the column coupling with the wormshaft.
(5) Align the groove on the steering column coupling with the groove in the wormshaft and install
the coupling bolt, washer and nut.
(6) Tighten the nut to 33 foot-pounds.
(7) While the jacket clamp bolts are loose, position
the jacket assembly so the steering shaft coupling is
centered at the midpoint of its travel.
ADJUSTING SCREW
F i g . 12—Measuring
Screw
NY 1231 A
Cross
End
19-9
Shaft
Adjusting
Clearance
The coupling travel midpoint can be determined by
a / i " diameter gauge hole which is provided in the
steering shaft.
When the bottom edge of the gauge hole is tangent
to the top edge of the seal, the coupling is centered in
its travel.
(8) After centering the coupling, tighten the column jacket to instrument panel clamp bolts to 95
inch-pounds.
3
6
NOTE: On vehicles equipped with manual transmission and concentric shift linkage, it will be necessary to readjust the length of the 1st and reverse
shift rod and the 2nd and 3rd shift rod after the
steering column assembly has been secured in position. See "Manual Transmission Linkage Adjustments."
(9) Turn the steering gear and steering wheel to
the midpoint of its travel.
(10) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead
position so the master serrations in the steering gear
arm align with those on the steering cross shaft.
(11) Install the steering gear arm, lock washer and
nut on the cross shaft and tighten the nut to 120 footpounds.
(12) After the steering gear has been completely
installed, test the steering wheel to be sure it is centered in the straight ahead position. If it is found to
be off center with the wheels straight ahead, adjust
F i g . 7 3 — R e m o v i n g Cross Shaft Oil
Seal
MyMopar.com
19-10
POWER STEERING GEAR
to help prolong oil seal life.
HOUSING-
TOOL
C-3880
Fig, 14—Installing
Cross Shaft
—
Oil
Seal
the tie rods to center the wheel. See Group 2, "Front
Suspension."
Cross Shaft Oil Seal
Replacement
The cross shaft oil seal may be replaced by this
procedure either on the bench, or without removing
the steering gear from the vehicle.
CAUTION: When replacing the oil seal in the vehicle, clean the exposed portion of the cross shaft
Use Tool C-3880 to service the cross shaft seal.
The tool consists of adapter SP-3056; half rings SP1932 and nut SP-3610.
(1) Slide the threaded adapter over the end of the
cross shaft and install the nut portion of the tool on
the shaft (Fig. 13). Maintain pressure on the adapter
with the tool nut while screwing the adapter into the
seal until it grips the oil seal firmly. Place the two
half rings and retainer over both portions of the tool.
Turn the tool nut counterclockwise to withdraw the
seal from the housing.
(2) Place the seal onto the splines on the cross
shaft with the lip of the seal facing the gear housing.
(3) Place the installing adapter SP-3052 from Tool
C-3880 against the seal. Press the seal in until a gap
of Va inch exists between the adapter and the housings (Fig. 14).
(4) Place the nut down from Tool Set C-3880 on
the cross shaft, and turn it down against the adapter,
pressing the seal into the housing until the step on
the adapter contacts the end of the housing.
POWER STEERING GEAR
Description
The power steering gear consists of a gear housing
(Fig. 1) containing a gear shaft with sector gear, a
power piston with gear teeth milled into the side of
the piston is in constant mesh with the gear shaft
sector and a wormshaft connects the steering wheel
to the power piston. The wormshaft is geared to the
piston through a recirculating ball contact (Fig. 2).
SERVICE PROCEDURES
GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTMENT
IN THE VEHICLE
(1) With the gear shaft on center, loosen the gear
shaft adjusting screw lock nut Vi turn and tighten the
adjusting screw until backlash just disappears. Tighten
the screw VA turns from this position and while holding adjusting screw in this position, tighten lock nut.
NOTE: This is a temporary adjustment to insure
that the piston rack and sector teeth are in full
alignment (Fig. 2).
(2) Operate the unit manually for a minimum of
180 degrees from the center in each direction, measured at the wormshaft.
(3) Start the engine and run at idle speed. With
hydraulic power to the steering gear unit and with
the gear shaft on center plus or minus 2 degrees, readjust the gear shaft backlash. This will require loosening the adjusting screw until the backlash is evident. Retighten the adjusting screw until the backlash just disappears. Continue to tighten % to V2 turn
from this position and tighten the lock nut 50 footpounds torque to maintain this setting.
GEAR REMOVAL
Imperial
Models
AY-1
(1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Loosen the jacket tube clamp at the steering
gear housing.
(3) Remove the cotter key and nut at the center
link and disconnect the link from the arm.
(4) Remove the arm nut and washer at the steering gear shaft.
(5) Slide Tool C-3646 up on the arm and place the
shoe of the puller behind the steering arm. Tightening the tool center screw against the gear shaft, will
pull the steering arm from the gear shaft.
CAUTION: Do not remove the steering arm by prying with a lever or striking with a hammer as serious steering gear internal damage will result.
(6) Remove the four nuts and washers connecting
the master cylinder to the brake booster and move
the master cylinder towards the engine.
NOTE: Use a wire to attach the cylinder so that
the brake tube will not be damaged.
(7) Disconnect the pressure and return hoses at
the steering gear. Fasten the ends of the hoses above
the oil level in the reservoir. Cap the ends of the
hoses. Cap the fittings on the steering gear.
(8) Remove the coupling clamp bolt and slide the
jacket tube up and off the steering gear from inside
the vehicle by pulling up on the steering wheel (about
2 inches).
(9) Remove the gear housing to frame mounting
bolts, washers and alignment wedge.
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POWER STEERING GEAR
F i g . 1 — S t e e r i n g Gear
(10) Remove the steering gear from under the vehicle.
Chrysler
Models
AC-1, AC-2, AC-3
(1) Disconnect the battery ground terminal.
(2) Disconnect the hoses at the gear control valve.
Fasten the ends of the hoses above the oil level in
the reservoir.
(Sectional
19-11
View)
(3) Loosen the wormshaft to steering shaft coupling clamp bolt.
(4) From inside the vehicle loosen the steering column to instrument panel bracket and pull up on the
column assembly until the coupling is clear of the
steering gear wormshaft (about 2 inches).
(5) Raise the vehicle.
(6) Remove the cotter key and nut from the steering arm at the center link.
(7) Remove the center link from the steering arm
using puller Tool C-3894.
(8) Remove the three bolts that mount the steering gear to the crossmember and remove the gear
from under the vehicle.
GEAR RECONDITIONING
NOTE: Prior to disassembly, clean the gear assembly thoroughly in a suitable solvent and install the
unit in the holding fixture Tool C-3323.
Fig. 2—Steering
Gear
Housing
(Sectional
View)
(1) When disassembling, each part should be
placed in a suitable solvent, washed, then dried by
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19-12
POWER STEERING GEAR
KR38
Fig. 5—Removing
64x579
F i g . 3 — - R e m o v i n g Valve Body
Assembly
dry compressed air. Careful handling of the parts
must be exercised to avoid the occurrence of nicks
and burrs. Crocus cloth may be used to remove small
nicks or burrs provided it is used carefully. When
used on the steering gear valve, use extreme care not
to round off the sharp edge portions of the two lands
located between the valve drilled holes. The sharp
edge portion of these two lands is vitally important
to this type of valve.
(2) Drain the steering gear through the pressure
and return connections by turning the wormshaft
from one extreme of travel to the other.
(3) Remove the valve body housing attaching
screws.
(4) Remove the valve body and the three " 0 " rings
(Fig. 3).
(5) Remove the spring and valve lever. Pry under
the spherical head with a screwdriver.
NOTE: Use care not to collapse the slotted end of
the valve lever as this will destroy the bearing tolerances of the spherical head.
Steering
Column
Support
Nut
to facilitate removal and remove the gear shaft cover
nut with Tool C-3633 (Fig. 4).
CAUTION: Oil will be expelled when the gear shaft
and cover are withdrawn from the housing.
(8) Rotate the worm shaft to the full right turn
position, then return the worm shaft to the center of
travel. This will place the piston in the center position
(Fig. 2). Place Tool C-3786 on the threaded end of the
gear shaft, then slowly withdraw the gear shaft until
the sector teeth clear the housing. Rotate the shaft
180 degrees and allow the ends of the teeth to rest on
the housing. The tool will prevent the needle bearings
from falling out of their cages when the gear shaft is
removed.
(9) Turn the wormshaft to the full right turn position to compress the power train parts and remove
the housing head nut with Tool C-3634 (Fig. 5).
NOTE: By this procedure, the worm will be all the
way into the position and the power train parts will
be resting against the piston flange. It is imperative that the cylinder head, center race and spacer
assembly and the housing head be maintained in
close contact with each other. This will prohibit the
teflon sealing ring on the wormshaft from becom-
(6) Remove the gear shaft oil seal inner and outer
as outlined in "Gear Shaft Oil Seal Replacement."
(7) Loosen the gear shaft adjusting screw locknut
TOOL
Fig. 4—Removing
Gear
Shaft Cover
Nut
Fig. 6—Removing
Train
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the Power
POWER STEERING GEAR
19-13
ing disengaged from its mating sleeve retained in
the cylinder head, it will also eliminate the possibility of the reaction rings becoming disengaged
from their grooves in both the cylinder head and
the housing head.
(10) While holding the worm shaft in the fully compressed position, pry up on the piston teeth with a
screwdriver using the gear shaft as a fulcrum and remove the power train (Fig. 6).
NOTE: By this procedure, the worm will be all the
way into the piston and the power train parts will be
resting against the piston flange. It is imperative that the cylinder head, center race and spacer
assembly and the housing head be maintained in
close contact with each other. This will prohibit the
teflon sealing ring on the worm shaft from becoming
disengaged from its mating sleeve retained in the
cylinder head. It will also eliminate the possibility
of the reaction rings becoming disengaged from
their grooves in both the cylinder head and housing
head.
(11) Remove the column jacket housing head tang
washer.
NOTE: The needle bearing in the support consists
of 3 3 needles originally retained in the support by
heavy lubricant to facilitate assembly. This lubricant, however, will have become dissolved in the
hot hydraulic fluid with the unit in operation.
(12) To make sure the bearing needles do not drop
out when removing the housing head, place the arbor,
Tool C-3929 on the wormshaft and slide the support
and bearing kup on the arbor tool (Fig. 7).
(13) Place the power train in a vise equipped with
soft jaws to avoid damaging the piston assembly.
CAUTION: Do not turn the worm more than onehalf turn during disassembly.
(14) Hold the wormshaft from turning, then turn
the thrust bearing nut with sufficient force to release
the staked portions from the knurled section and remove the nut.
64x581A
Fig.
7—Retaining
the
Bearing
Rollers
With
Arbor
Tool
Fig.
8—Removing
Wormshaft
Upper
Seal
NOTE: Wire brush the knurled section to remove
the chips, then blow out the nut and wormshaft to
remove any metal particles.
(15) Remove the upper thrust bearing race (thin).
(16) Remove the upper thrust bearing.
(17) Remove the center bearing race.
(18) Remove the lower thrust bearing.
(19) Remove the lower thrust bearing race (thick).
(20) Remove the lower reaction ring and the reaction spring.
(21) Remove the cylinder head assembly.
(22) Test the operation of the wormshaft. The
torque required to rotate the wormshaft throughout
its travel in or out of the piston must not exceed 2
inch-pounds.
NOTE: The worm and piston assembly is serviced
as a complete assembly only and should not be
disassembled.
(23) Remove the wormshaft upper seal with puller
Tool C-3638 (Fig. 8).
CAUTION: Do not interchange the Imperial wormshaft support, reaction rings and seals with that of
any other models. The machining on the AY1 model support is different, resulting in a difference of
reaction feel.
(24) Remove the large "0" ring from the groove
in the support.
(25) Remove the reaction seal from the groove in
the face of the housing head with air pressure directed into the ferrule chamber (Fig. 9).
(26) Inspect all the grooves for burrs. Make sure
the passage from the ferrule chamber to the upper
reaction chamber is unobstructed.
(27) Install the wormshaft upper oil seal using Tool
C-3650 (Fig. 10) (with the lip of the seal toward the
bearing).
(28) Lubricate and install the reaction seal in the
groove in the face of the housing head with the flat
side of the seal out (Fig. 11).
(29) Remove the two "0" rings in the two outer
grooves in the cylinder head.
MyMopar.com
19-14
AIR
POWER STEERING GEAR
NOZZLE
HOUSING HEAD
O" RING
REACTION-
•Hi
SEAL
O"
/
RING
p
REACTION RING
HOUSING
HEAD
NY1245A
KR45A
F / g . 7 7 — i n s t a l l i n g Reaction
Fig. 9 — R e m o v i n g Reaction
Seal From Mousing
Head
(30) Remove the lower reaction " 0 " ring in the
groove in the face of the cylinder head. Apply air
pressure into the oil hole located in the groove between the two " 0 " ring grooves (Fig. 12).
(31) Inspect the wormshaft seal in the cylinder
head counterbore for possible damage; replace the
cylinder head seal if necessary (Fig. 13).
(32) Inspect the oil passage in the ferrule for obstruction and cylinder head lands for burrs, then lubricate the two large " 0 " rings and install in the
grooves on the cylinder head.
(33) Install the cylinder head oil seal, back-up ring
and retainer (if removed). Make sure the retainer is
seated in the groove.
(34) Install the lower reaction seal in the cylinder
head groove.
NOTE: The small " O " ring for the ferrule groove
should be installed after the worm shaft bearing
preload has been established; otherwise, the small
" O " ring will be damaged by the reaction springs
and the center bearing spacer.
(35) Remove the gear shaft adjusting screw lock
nut and remove the small " 0 " ring from the top of
Seal Into Housing
CAUTION: The needle bearing in the cover consists of 51 needles originally retained in the cover
by heavy lubricant to facilitate assembly. This lubricant, however, will have become dissolved in the
hot hydraulic fluid with the unit in operation.
NOTE: If for some reason, the cover assembly must
be removed from the gear shaft, the 51 needles will
fall out of the cover. If any needles (51) become
lost, it will be necessary to replace the cover and
bearing as an assembly. Use wheel bearing lubricant to retain the needle rollers in the cover when
reassembling.
(36) Lubricate a new small " 0 " ring and install it
over the adjusting screw into position at the top of
the gear shaft cover.
(37) Lubricate an " 0 " ring and gear shaft cover
with petrolatum and install the " 0 " ring in the cover
groove.
(38) Install the adjusting screw lock nut, but do not
tighten.
(39) Attach the steering gear housing in the holdCYLINDER
r
r
.
-\
W ^ P k ™
'
'•'
4
HOUSING
S
#
E
A
"
Head
the cover and large " 0 " ring from the base of the
cover (Fig. 26).
HEAD
HEAD
L
\
l
_ ^ T O O L
)
CYLINDER
OIL
SPANNER
HEAD
SEAL
"O"
NUT
REACTION
"O"
RING
x
KR44B
KR46
Fig. 7 2 — R e m o v i n g Reaction
F / g . 7 0 — I n s t a l l i n g Wormshaft
Upper
Seal
RING
FERRULE
Cylinder
Head
Ring Seal
From
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING GEAR
Fig. 1 4 — R e m o v i n g Homing
Fig. 1 3 — R e m o v i n g Cylinder
Head
Seal
ing fixture Tool C-3323 and place the holding fixture
in a vise.
(40) If necessary to remove the housing bearings,
use puller, Tool C-3332 with adapter SP-3062 (Fig. 14)
as follows;
(a) Engage the jaws behind the bearing, hold the
center screw while turning the puller nut to pull the
lower (outer) needle bearing out of the housing.
(b) Use puller, Tool C-3332, to remove the upper
(inner) needle bearing.
(41) Install gear shaft bearings into the housing
with installer, Tool C-3333 (lettered end of the bearings against the installer tool). Press the bearings to
Vs inch below the edge of the counterbore.
(42) If the power piston ring (Figs. 15 and 16) was
removed at disassembly, inspect the condition of the
rubber sealing ring and install a new cast iron ring
with Tool C-3676, Piston Ring Remover and Installer,
as follows:
(a) Position Tool C-3676 in the vise (Fig. 17).
(b) Slide a new piston ring into place in the piston
groove.
(c) Place the piston and ring assembly in Tool C3676 with the lower part of the piston and the ring
resting on the land of tool.
(d) Press down on the piston to bottom the piston
ring in the piston groove, forcing the open ends of
the ring out for ease of locking the ring. The ring
should be positioned with ring hooks in line with the
ball guide plug.
(43) Place the piston assembly in a vertical position (worm shaft up) in a vise equipped with soft jaws.
(44) Slide the cylinder head assembly (ferrule up)
on the wormshaft, inspect the wormshaft seal ring
making sure gap is closed to avoid damaging ring as
cylinder head moves against piston flange.
(45) Lubricate with Power Steering Fluid Part No.
2084329 and install the following parts in order:
(a) Lower thrust bearing race (thick).
Lower
19-15
Bearing
(b) Lower thrust bearing.
(c) Lower reaction spring (with smallhole over the
ferrule).
(d) Lower reaction ring (flange up so the ring protrudes through the reaction spring and contacts the
reaction " 0 " ring in the cylinder head).
(e) Center bearing race.
(f) Upper thrust bearing.
(g) Upper thrust bearing race (thin).
(h) Start the wormshaft thrust bearing nut (do not
tighten).
(46) Turn the wormshaft counterclockwise one-half
turn. Hold the wormshaft in this position while tightening the nut to 50 foot-pounds to prestretch the
wormshaft threads.
CAUTION: If the wormshaft is turned more than
one-half turn, the cylinder head sleeve will clear
the oil seal ring on the wormshaft. Always position
the wormshaft oil seal ring before bottoming the
cylinder head against the piston top flange to avoid
damaging the oil seal ring.
(47) Loosen the adjusting nut. Place several rounds
of cord around the center bearing race (fig. 18). Make
a loop in one end of the cord and hook the loop of a
distributor breaker arm spring scale Tool MTU-36 in
the cord loop. Pulling the cord will cause the bearing
race to rotate. Retighten the worm bearing adjusting
nut while pulling on the cord with the scale. If the
adjusting nut is tightened properly, reading on the
scale should be 16 to 24 ounces (20 ounces preferred)
while the bearing race is turning.
CAUTION: Place a support under the adjusting nut
during the staking operation to avoid brinelling the
piston and the worm bearings.
(48) Stake the upper part of the wormshaft adjusting nut into the knurled area of the shaft as follows:
(a) Hold a A inch flat end punch on the center line
of the wormshaft and perpendicular to the wormshaft
and at a slight angle to the nut flange (Fig. 19).
X
MyMopar.com
f
RETAINER
S N A P
R I N G
SEAL
W O R M
3
W / P I S T O N
m
R I N G
H O U S I N G
" O "
RING
CO
R I N G
R I N G
-I
m
m
2
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o
R I N G
S H A F T
R E T A I N E R
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S C R E W
R I N G
S E A L
W A S H E R
SEAL
o
m
WASHER
B E A R I N G
>
NUT
C O U P L I N G
V A L V E
A S S E M B L Y
G R O U N D
BEARING
NY18C
F i g . 1$—Steering
Gear
(Disassembled
View)
Models
AC-1,
AC-2
and AC-3
MyMopar.com
J
"O"
Fig. 1 6 — S t e e r i n g Gear
(Disassembled
View)
Models
RING
64x721 A
AY-1
MyMopar.com
19-18
POWER STEERING GEAR
W O R M
PISTON
SHAFT-
RING
PISTON
W O R M
II
V
SHAFT
ADJUSTING
NUT
PUNCH
OUTER
RACE
CENTER
RACE
CYLINDER
HEAD
PISTON
TOOL
V
i J
.
i
F i g . 7 7—Installing the Piston
N Y 15
Ring
._
(b) Strike the punch a sharp blow with a hammer
and recheck the preload.
NOTE: If the adjusting nut mowed during the staking operation, it can be corrected by striking the
nut a glancing blow in the direction required to
regain proper preload.
(c) After the proper preload, stake the nut at three
more locations 90 degrees apart around the upper
part of the nut.
(d) To test the total staking, tighten the nut to 28
foot-pounds torque in either direction. If the nut does
not move, the staking operation is satisfactory.
IMPORTANT: Retest the preload adjustment, the
torque of 16 to 24 inch ounces must remain after
the adjusting nut is securely locked.
(49) Install the center bearing spacer assembly
over the center bearing race and engage the dowelpin of the spacer in the slot of the race and the slot
of the spacer entered over the cylinder head ferrule.
NOTE: This will align the valve lever hole in the
center bearing race with the valve lever hole in the
WORM
•'
'
ADJUSTING
•
•
^
NUT
RACE
SCALE
(TOOL)
FERRULE
KR65A
F / g . 7 8 — A d j u s t i n g Center
.
Bearing
—NK464
Adjusting
Nut
center bearing spacer assembly.
(50) Install the upper reaction ring on the center
bearing spacer with the flange down against the
spacer.
(51) Install the upper reaction pressure spring
over the reaction ring with the cylinder head ferrule
through the hole in the reaction spring.
(52) Install the reaction ring (without flange) inside
the upper reaction ring.
(53) Lubricate the ferrule "O" ring with petrolatum and install it in the groove on the cylinder ferrule.
(54) Carefully install the housing head over the
wormshaft, engaging the cylinder head ferrule and
the " 0 " ring and making sure the reaction rings enter the circular groove in the housing head.
CAUTION: Form a .0015 inch feeler gauge into a
coil and insert with the housing head to protect the
lip of the seal when installing over the wormshaft
serrations.
(55) Align the parts on the power train so that the
valve lever hole in the center bearing spacer assembly
is 90 degrees counterclockwise from the piston rack
teeth and hold all the parts together.
(56) With the steering gear housing in the holding
fixture Tool C-3323 in approximate vehicle installed
position; lubricate the bore of the housing with petrolatum and carefully install the power train assembly
with the center bearing spacer valve lever hole in
"UP" position (Fig. 1) to line up with the control
valve lever clearance hole in the steering gear housing.
SHAFT
•
F / g . 7 9 — S t a k i n g Wormshaft
I
Bearing
Pace
Preload
CAUTION: Place a feeler stock, .0015 inch, to cover the aligning notch in the steering gear housing
to protect the " O " ring seals when installing the
gear train.
Make sure the cylinder head is bottomed on the
housing shoulder (Fig. 1). Do not release pressure
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P O W E I STEERING GEAR
on the power train (Fig. 6) until all the parts are
positioned in the steering gear housing.
(57) Align the valve lever hole in the center bearing spacer exactly with the clearance hole in the housing, with aligning Tool C-3649.
NOTE: Aligning tool should not be removed until
the spanner nut is securely tightened.
(58) Install the housing head spanner nut and
tighten the nut 110 to 200 foot-pounds with Tool
C-3634 (Fig. 5).
(59) Set the piston at the center of travel and install the gear shaft and cover assembly so that the
sector teeth index with the piston rack teeth. Make
sure the " 0 " ring is properly positioned in the face of
the cover (Fig. 26).
(60) Install the cover spanner nut and tighten the
nut 110 to 200 foot-pounds with Tool C-3633 (Fig. 4).
(61) Install the valve lever (double bearing end first)
into the center bearing spacer through the hole in
the steering housing so that the slots in the valve lever are parallel to the wormshaft in order to engage
the anti-rotation pin in the center bearing race.
NOTE: Turn the worm until the piston bottoms in
both directions and observe the action of the lever.
It must return easily to its center position when
the worm torque is relieved.
(62) Install the spherical spring over the valve lever,
large end of the spring up.
(63) Install the valve body on the housing making
sure that the valve lever enters the hole in the piston
(Fig. 1). Be sure that the "O" ring seals are in place.
Tighten valve mounting screws to 30 inch-pounds.
(64) Install a new inner oil seal, back-up washer,
retainer, and new outer seal as outlined in "Gear
Shaft Oil Seal Replacement."
FINAL TEST AND ADJUSTMENTS
(1) Remove the oil reservoir cover and fill the reservoir to the bottom of the filler neck opening.
(2) Connect the test hoses, Tool C-3211 and Tool
19-19
C-3318, with the proper adapters to the hydraulic
pump on the vehicle with pressure gauge Tool C-3309B
installed between the pump and the steering gear to
register the pressures.
(3) Start the engine and operate at idle to bring
the steering gear to normal operating temperature.
(4) Expel all the air from the unit by turning the
wormshaft several times to the right and then to the
left.
(5) Refill the reservoir before proceeding with the
following test and adjustments on the bench:
(a) Tighten the steering valve body attaching
screws to 7 foot-pounds.
(b) Install a steering gear shaft arm on the steering gear shaft.
(c) With the gear shaft on center, tighten the gear
shaft adjusting screw until the backlash just disappears. Tighten IVi turns from this position and while
holding the adjusting screw in this position, tighten
the lock nut (Fig. 20).
NOTE: This will bring the piston rack and the sector teeth in full alignment.
(d) Turn off the hydraulic power to the unit. Operate the unit manually from a minimum of 180 degrees
from center in each direction, measured at the wormshaft.
(e) With the hydraulic power applied to the unit
and with the gear shaft on center plus or minus 2 degrees, readjust the gear shaft backlash. This will require loosening the adjusting screw until the backlash just disappears. Continue to tighten % to V2
turn from this position and tighten the lock nut to 50
foot-pounds to maintain this setting.
(f) Starting from a point at least one full turn of
the wormshaft either side of center, the torque at
the gear shaft required to turn the unit through center at 2 rpm in each direction shall not exceed 25 footpounds from left to right. Perform this operation
carefully to prevent a lockup in the steering gear.
(g) Adjust the torque evenly by moving the steering
valve assembly by tapping gently on the back pressure valve body attaching screws to move the valve
body up on the steering housing and tap on the end
plug to move the valve body down on the housing.
NOTE: If the torque is greater to the right, move
the control valve body "Down." If the torque is
greater to the left, move the valve body "Up." After
positioning the valve to obtain equal torque, tighten
the valve body attaching screws to 15 foot-pounds
to maintain this setting.
Fig. 2 0 — S t e e r i n g Gear Shaft
Adjustment
(h) With the unit at or near the full turn in either
direction, attempt to return the unit to the center by
applying a torque wrench at the steering gear cross
shaft. Hold the wormshaft until the cross shaft torque
builds up to 50 foot-pounds. Release the wormshaft
and maintain a constant steady pull on the cross
MyMopar.com
19-20
POWER STEERING GEAR
shaft (turning cross shaft slowly). If the cross shaft
torque does not drop to 25 foot-pounds maximum as
the piston passes through the center, check for too
much interior drag; binding valve lever, binding valve
spool, or cross shaft adjustment is too tight.
(i) vVitlf the unit under power, but without any load,
the torque required to rotate the wormshaft through
an included angle of 180 degrees (90 degrees either
side of center) shall be 6 to 9 inch-pounds.
(j) If the steering gear tests are satisfactory, disconnect the test equipment.
GEAR INSTALLATION
Imperial;
(1) Enter the steering gear from under the vehicle
and install the spherical, flat and lockwashers and
nuts, but do not tighten.
(2) Install the Steering Gear Housing Aligning Tool
C-3949 in place of the vehicle steering column and
jacket tube and align the steering gear as follows:
(a) Slide the lower end of the aligning tool into position on the steering gear wormshaft support and
the upper end at the instrument panel clamp.
(b) Install the jacket tube support bracket clamp at
the instrument panel. Tighten the instrument support
bracket clamp bolts to 95 inch-pounds.
(c) Tighten the two forward steering gear mounting bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque (Fig. 21).
(d) Install the serrated wedge over the rear mounting bolt between the steering housing and the frame
parallel to the axis of the steering gear wormshaft so
that the tapered surfaces match, then tap the wedge
gently but firmly into the space.
(e) Tighten the rear mounting bolt to 50 footpounds. This locks the gear in place and maintains
steering gear alignment.
(f) Remove the jacket tube support bracket clamp
at the instrument panel and remove the Steering
Gear Housing Aligning Tool C-3949.
(3) Install the steering column and jacket assembly through the floor panel from the driver's side and
start the coupling on the steering gear wormshaft,
making certain the master serration on the coupling
indexes with the missing serration on the wormshaft.
CAUTION: While the steering column is not rigidly attached to the instrument panel use extreme
care to prevent any misalignment of the column
from the true column position which would result
in damage to the flexible coupling disc and horn
ground.
(6) After positioning the steering column assembly
so that the flexible coupling disc assumes an unstressed axial position, and the top of the steering column is correctly aligned with the instrument panel
bracket clamp, tighten the clamp bolts to 95 inchpounds.
(7) Slide the floor pan support plate into position,
centering it around the column jacket, install the attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 95 inch-pounds.
(8) Move the jacket "O" ring down the jacket into
position and bolt the " 0 " ring retaining plate to the
toe board support plate. Tighten bolts to 95 inchpounds.
(9) Install the lower column plate to the instrument
panel.
(10) Connect the pressure and return hoses at the
steering gear.
(11) With the steering gear centered in its travel
and the steering wheel and front wheels in the straight
ahead position, connect the steering gear arm to the
steering gear cross shaft. Install the washer and nut.
Tighten nut to 120 foot-pounds.
(12) Install the steering center link, tighten to 30
foot-pounds and install cotter pin.
(13) Refill the reservoir. Expel all the air from the
system by turning the steering wheel several times to
the right and left.
(14) Connect the battery ground cable.
Chrysler:
(1) From under the vehicle position the gear on the
crossmember and install the three mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 50 foot-pounds.
(2) Position the steering gear in the center of the
high spot (worm master spline should be at 12
o'clock) and install the steering arm, washer and nut.
Tighten nut to 120 foot-pounds.
NOTE: The steering column assembly should be
moved down onto the wormshaft until the wormshaft lightly bottoms on the locating pin pre-assembled into the coupling.
(4) Install the coupling clamp bolt and tighten to
33 foot-pounds.
(5) Align the jacket tube at the instrument panel
and install the jacket tube clamp and attaching
screws. Tighten the screws finger tight.
Fig. 21—Steering
Gear
Mounting—Models
AY-1
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING GEAR
(3) Connect the hoses to the gear steering valve
assembly.
(4) From inside the vehicle push down on the steering wheel until the steering shaft coupling engages
the worm with the master spline on the wormshaft
and the notch on the body of the coupling aligned.
Position the clamp on the coupling, install the bolt
and tighten to 33 foot-pounds.
(5) With the wheels straight ahead position the center link on the steering arm and install the washer
and nut. Tighten the nut to 120 foot-pounds.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect the battery ground cable.
(8) Fill the reservoir.
(9) Start the engine and operate the steering wheel
from left to right several times to expel the air from
the system.
(10) Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
CONTROL V A L V E RECONDITIONING
(1) Remove the two screws attaching the pressure
control valve body to the steering valve body and remove the back pressure control valve assembly (Fig.
22).
(2) Compress the pressure control valve spring and
remove the retainer pin, spring, pressure control valve
piston and back pressure valve cushion spring.
(3) Carefully shake out the steering valve piston.
Inspect the valve for nicks, burrs and scores.
NOTE; If the steering valve or valve housing is
damaged, replace the valve and housing assembly.
Do not remove the valve end plug unless inspection
indicates a leak at the seal.
Small burrs and nicks may be removed with crocus
cloth, if extreme care is used not to round off the
sharp edge portion of the valve. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to the operation of this
valve.
(4) Clean the valve bodies and valve pistons thoroughly in clean solvent. Blow out all passages and blow
parts dry with dry compressed air. Lubricate the pistons and bores with Power Steering Fluid Part No.
2084329.
CONTROL.
VALVE
% - S C R E W
^
\
-
"O"
«o"
19-21
(5) Install the steering spool valve into the valve
housing so that the valve lever hole is aligned with
the lever opening in the valve body. The valve must
be perfectly free in the valve body without sticking
or binding.
(6) Install a new seal and end plug (if removed).
Tighten the plug to 25 foot-pounds.
(7) Install the back pressure valve cushion spring
in the back pressure valve body. Lubricate the back
pressure valve piston and insert the nose end of the
piston into the body bore. Test for smooth operation.
Be sure the lower spring is not cocked.
(8) Install the pressure control valve spring on top
of the valve piston. Compress the spring and install
the retaining pin.
(9) Install the two " 0 " rings and assemble the back
pressure valve assembly to the control valve body.
Tighten the two attaching screws to 10 foot-pounds.
(10) If the pressure inlet fitting has been removed,
replace the copper gasket and retighten the fitting to
30 foot-pounds.
GEAR SHAFT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
NOTE: The gear shaft oil seal may be replaced in
the vehicle or on the work bench. To clearly show
the tool application the illustrations show the seal
replacement operations on the work bench.
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Remove the cotter key and nut connecting the
steering gear arm to the center link.
(3) Remove the tie rod end with Tool C-3894. (See
"Tie Rod End Replacement.")
(4) Remove the steering gear arm nut and washer.
(5) Slide Tool C-3646 upon the arm and place the
shoe of the puller behind the steering arm (Fig. 23).
Tightening the tool center screw against the gear
shaft will pull the steering gear arm from the gear
shaft.
CAUTION: Do not remove the steering arm by prying with a lever or striking with a hammer as serious
steering gear internal damage will result.
RINGS
RINGS
'
BODY
"O"
\
SPRING
\
\
Q V * V
C^yJ
STEERING
i p # % ^
GASKET
FITTING
ARM
PIN
SPRING
\
RING
f
/
SCREW
-
VALVE
BODY
?
SPOOL
TOOL
VALVE
G A S K E T , 4 ^ r <
KR48A
Fig. 2 2 — S t e e r i n g Waive [Disassembled
END
KR231A
P L U G ^ l
View)
Fig. 23—Removing
Steering
Gear
Arm
MyMopar.com
19-22
POWER STEERING GEAR
3PJ>*
v
(TOOL)
t
Fig. 24—Removing
Gear
Shaft Oil
KR53A
Seal
(6) Remove the gear shaft, grease retainer with
adapter SP-3056 and Tool C-3350 (Fig. 24) as follows:
(a) Slide the threaded position of the adapter SP3056 over the end of the gear shaft.
(b) Install the nut section of Tool C-3350 on the
gear shaft.
(c) Maintain pressure on the adapter SP-3056 with
the nut section of Tool C-3350 while turning adapter
SP-3056 into the seal until it has bottomed in the seal.
(d) Install the two half-rings and ring retainer of
Tool C-3350 over adapter and nut section of tool.
(e) Turn the nut section counterclockwise; as the
hexagon nut is removed from the gear shaft, the oil
seal will be pulled from the housing.
(7) Remove the oil seal snap ring with pliers Tool
F i g . 2 6 — S t e e r i n g Gear
F i g . 2 5 — I n s t a l l i n g Gear
Shaft Oil
Seal
C-3229 and remove the oil seal back-up washer and
repeat operation a, b, c, d, to remove the inner seal.
(8) Install the gear shaft inner oil seal into the
steering gear housing (lip of seal toward the needle
bearings) with the adapter SP-3052 and Tool C-3350
as follows:
(a) Place long lip of adapter SP-3052 against seal.
(b) Thread the tool nut on the threaded end of the
gear shaft (Fig. 25).
(c) Turn the tool nut on the gear shaft until the
shoulder of the adapter tool contacts the housing.
(d) Remove the tools and install the oil seal backup washer and retainer ring.
Housing
(Sectional
View)
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING PUMP
CAUTION: Make sure the snap ring is properly
seated in the housing groove (Fig. 26).
3
(e) Fill the cavity of the housing base to within /i6
inch of the end of the bore with wheel bearing grease.
Any surplus grease will squeeze out around inner
19-23
edge of seal when the seal is installed.
(f) Position the gear shaft grease retainer with lip
of seal towards the needle bearings and with the
hub of the adapter SP-3052 against the seal, install
the seal.
POWER STEERING PUMP
Description
The power steering pump is a belt-driven constant
displacement pump.
In operation (Fig. 1) the spring loaded slippers in
the pump rotor are in contact with the eccentric, inside diameter of the housing. As a rotor revolves, the
slippers force the oil from the inlet side of the pump
to the flow control valve. Orifices in the metering in-
sert permit a flow of approximately two gallons per
minute to the gear before the valve moves to the
right to allow the excess to flow back to the inlet
side of the pump. Maximum pressure in the system
is limited by the pressure relief valve. The valve
opens into the reservoir when the pressure exceeds
the maximum pressure specified.
SERW1CE PROCEDURES
FLUID LEVEL
(1) Start the engine, turn the steering wheel back
and forth several times to expel the air from the system, then shut off the engine.
(2) Wipe the reservoir filler cap free of dirt then
remove the cap and visually inspect the oil level in
the reservoir.
Engine Cold—Oil level should be at the bottom of
filler neck.
Engine Hot—Oil level should be one-half way up
in fill neck.
If necessary, add only Power Steering Fluid Part
No. 2084329 to the required level. Do not overfill.
PRESSURE TEST
(1) Measure the pump belt tension. See "Cooling
System," Group 7.
(2) Disconnect the pump to the steering gear pres-
sure hose at the power steering pump. Connect the
test hose Tool C-3388 with the proper adapter between
the power steering pump and pressure gauge Tool
C-3309B with a shut-off valve between the pressure
gauge and the pressure hose that you disconnected
from the pump (Fig. 2).
NOTE: Make sure all connections are tight and that
the shut-off valve is fully opened. The pressure
gauge must be installed between the pump and
the shut-off valve, all connections must be tight and
the shut-off valve fully open.
(3) Remove the oil reservoir filler cap.
(4) Connect one lead of the tachometer to the distributor terminal of coil and the other to a good
ground, start the engine and operate at 500 rpm and
fill the pump reservoir to the proper level.
(5) Expel all the air from the unit by turning the
steering wheel to the full right turn and back to the
full left turn several times and recheck oil level.
SLIPPERS ( 4 )
RESERVOIR
S P R I N G S (8)
FLOW
CONTROL
ROTOR
O I L SEAL
RELIEF
VALVE
SNAP
RING
FLOW
CONTROL
FLOW
PLUG
CONTROL
PLUG
SNAP
RING
O I L SEAL
M E T E R I N G INSERT
NY751A
Fig. I—Power Steering
Pump—Oil
Flow
MyMopar.com
19-24
POWER STEERING PUMP
ate the steering unit through another cycle, this time
holding the unit at the extreme travel in each direction while watching the oil pressure gauge. The gauge
reading should be equal in each direction. If not, it
indicates excessive internal leakage in the steering
gear unit.
N O T E : Do not hold the steering wheel at either extreme position for more than a few seconds.
d. If the pressures are within the ranges specified;
make a flow test as outlined in "Pump Flow Test."
PUMP FLOW TEST
Fig. 2-—Pressure
Jest
NOTE: T o assist in heating t h e pump oil; slowly
turn the pressure gauge v a l v e towards the closed
position until t h e gauge reads 400 psi and open the
valve fully when the oil temperature reaches 150
degrees F.
(6) With the engine operating at 500 rpm and no
steering effort applied, the oil temperature should be
between 150 and 170 degrees F. (measure with a
thermometer in the reservoir); the pressure gauge
should show a pressure of less than 1000 psi. If the
pressure is higher, inspect the hoses and connections
for kinks and obstructions, or restrictions in the
steering gear.
(7) Increase the engine speed to 1000 rpm, then
slowly close the gauge shut-off valve. With the gauge
shut-off valve fully closed the pump pressure should
be as follows:
950 to 1000 psi for Chrysler Models with .96 displacement pump. 1000 to 1100 psi for Chrysler Models
with 1.2 displacement pump. 1200 to 1300 psi for Imperial Models.
(1) Inspect the pump belt tension. See "Cooling
System" Group 7.
(2) Disconnect the pump pressure hose at the power
steering pump and connect the test hose adapter tube
and pressure gauge Tool C-3309B with the proper
adapters between the power steering pump and the
hose disconnected from the pump (Fig. 3).
N O T E : T h e pressure gauge must be installed between the pump and the shut-off valve; all connections must be tight and the shut-off valve fully open.
(3) Disconnect the return hose at the power steering pump. Use care to avoid damaging the return hose
screen. Remove the return hose screen and examine for rips or creases. If the screen is damaged replace with a new screen, inspect the reservoir for any
loose pieces of screen. Make certain that the screen
is clean and properly reinstalled after completion of
the pump flow test.
NOTE: For identification the 1.2 displacement p u m p
has a milled slot f o r a machined hex in the end of
the pulley shaft. The .96 displacement pump does
not have the milled slot.
CAUTION: Do not close the valve for more than a
few seconds, as this would abnormally increase the
oil temperature and cause undue oil pump wear.
a. If the pressure increases to more than that indicated above, the relief valve is faulty or the pump is
equipped with the wrong relief valve.
b. If the pressure is less than that indicated above,
the relief valve is faulty. Replace the relief valve
with the correct relief valve known to be in working
order and repeat the test in step (7). If the pressures
are still below specifications, disassemble the pump
and inspect the flow control valve for evidence of
fouling or slipper spring breakage.
c. With the gauge shut-off valve fully open, oper-
Fig. 3—Flow
Test
Connections
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING PUMP
19-25
(4) Install the flow checking gauge set Tool C-3885
with the special hose between the power steering
pump and the return hose disconnected from the
pump (Fig. 3).
NOTE: The fitting that has the restriction, and the
arrow on the "tee" connector (Fig. 3) must be towards the power steering pump. Use orifice SP-3825.
(5) Remove the oil reservoir cover and fill the reservoir to the proper level.
(6) Start the engine and operate at 500 engine rpm.
(7) Expel all the air from the unit by turning the
steering wheel to the full right turn and back to the
full left turn several times and recheck oil level.
(8) Increase the engine speed 1000 to 1200 rpm and
no steering effort applied, oil temperature between
150 and 170 degrees F. (Check the thermometer in the
reservoir); the flow pressure gauge in the pump return line should read between 14 and 25 psi. If correct measuring orifice is used for test, and flow pressure gauge registers less than 14 psi inspect to see
if the restrictor is installed properly, if O.K., dirt may
be restricting control valve movement or blocking the
orifice or flow valve spring may be weak. If the return
pressure is greater than 25 psi, the flow valve may be
stuck in the closed position.
(9) Decrease the engine speed to 500 rpm, then
slowly turn the pressure gauge shut-off valve towards
the closed position to obtain 850 psi on the pressure
gauge at the pump discharge without fully closing
the shut-off valve.
CAUTION: Do not close the valve completely.
With 850 psi registered on the pressure gauge, the
flow measuring gauge should show a minimum pressure of 10 psi.
If the flow pressure reading is less than 10 psi; inspect the flow valve operation for sticking; if the valve
is operating satisfactorily the pump is worn and
should be replaced.
If flow pressure reading is 10 psi or greater, and
relief valve is operating properly; the pump is good.
FLOW
PLUG
CONTROL
AND
SNAP
VALVE
RING
F/g. 4—Removing Pump
Pulley
Fig. 5—Removing
Pump Oil
Seal
When removing the test equipment, make sure the
pressure and return hoses are reinstalled properly.
There should be no interference of the hoses with the
components attached to the fender shield or the dash
panel.
NOTE: The return hose screen should be clean and
reinstalled in the end of the return hose at the
pump before reinstalling the return hose.
PUMP REMOVAL
(1) Loosen the pump lower mounting bolt and remove the belt from the pulley.
(2) Place a container under the pump and disconnect both hoses at the pump. Cap ends of the hoses
and secure the hoses high enough to prevent loss of
fluid.
(3) Remove the bolts attaching the pump bracket
to the engine and remove the pump and bracket assembly.
OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Clean the exterior of the pump before disassembly.
(2) Remove the filler cap and drain the reservoir.
(3) Remove the brackets, reservoir screws, gasket
and "O" ring.
(4) Using spacer washers between the bracket and
the pump, reinstall the pump bracket for use as a
holding fixture. Clamp the bracket in a vise (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove the pulley with Tool C-3615 or C-3934
as follows:
a. Engage one half-collar under the flange of the
pulley hub.
b. Position the screw shaft and nut with the flange
section inside the half-collar.
c. Engage the other half-collar under the pulley hub
and over the flange of the screw shaft nut and install
the retainer sleeve over both half-collars.
MyMopar.com
19-26
POWER STEERING PUMP-
Ml I
TOOL
Fig. 6 ™ I n s t a l l i n g Pump Oil Seal
d. Hold the nut from turning and turn the screw
inward to remove the pulley.
(6) If there has been evidence of a leak, remove
pump shaft oil seal by threading Tool C-3783 for 1.2
pumps (C-3642 for .46 pumps) far enough into seal to
engage the metal portion of the seal (Fig. 5).
Turning the puller center screw while holding the
tool body will force the seal assembly from the pump.
CAUTION: The pulley end of the shaft should be
examined for sharp burrs or corners and smoothed
with a stone or fine emery cloth. This will prevent
seal damage when the new seal is installed. Do not
stone or emery the area on the shaft that the seal
lip contacts.
(7) Install new seal with lip of seal toward pump.
Use Tool C-3782 for 1.2 pumps (C-3643 for .96 pumps)
to drive seal flush with insert (Fig. 6).
(8) Support the pump body on the holding fixture,
Tool C-3643, with the tool dowel pins in the pump
bolt holes so that the pressure will be absorbed by
the lower end of the pump shaft (Fig. 7).
(2) Start the engine and steer the vehicle from stop
to stop to build-up pressure.
If the discharge fitting is leaking, disconnect the
high pressure hose at the pump and examine the
tubing flare for nicks, scratches, or other damage. If
the tubing flare or nut is damaged, replace the high
pressure hose.
(3) Examine the pump housing in the discharge
area to be sure that the housing has not been damaged by cross-threading or over-tightening the flare
nut. If the housing is cracked or if the threads are
damaged; the pump must be replaced.
(4) Examine the brass ferrule in the pump discharge fitting for nicks and scratches. The hose tubing
flare should make an indentation in the ferrule which
is concentric with the center hole and of approximate
uniform depth all the way around. If the ferrule is
damaged or nut improperly seated, replace the ferrule.
(5) Remove the pump from the vehicle.
(6) Clamp the pump in a vise with the discharge
opening in the down position, this will prevent any
chips from falling into the pump.
(7) Use a No. 4 screw-extractor (E-Z Out). Turn
the extractor into the ferrule (Fig. 8), then rock the
extractor slightly to remove the ferrule. Perform this
operation carefully so as not to damage the threads
on the housing.
(8) Clean out the discharge bore of any foreign
material (brass chips, dirt, etc.).
(9) Center the new ferrule with the tapered end
up in the housing bore. The ferrule is pressed into
place by reinstalling the high pressure hose and tightening the flare nut to 24 foot-pounds. Figure 9 is a
cutaway view to show the ferrule properly seated in
the housing.
CAUTION: Be sure that the ferrule is centered in
the housing bore before installing the high pressure hose flare nut.
CAUTION: The pump must be supported in a manner in which all pressing force will be applied to
the shaft only: otherwise, the pump body and rotor
will be damaged.
(9) Install the pulley with a heavy duty arbor press.
Press on the pulley hub only until the hub is flush
with the end of the pump shaft.
(10) Lubricate and install a new pump body " 0 "
ring and a new reservoir gasket on the pump body.
(11) Tighten the reservoir and the pump brackets.
Tighten the screws to 16 foot-pounds.
(12) Install the pump and test belt adjustment as
outlined under "Cooling System" Group 7.
DISCHARGE FITTING FERRULE REPLACEMENT
(1) Wipe away all dirt around the discharge fitting
and tighten the high pressure hose tube nut to 24 footpounds.
63x665
F i g . 7 — I n s t a l l i n g Pump
Pulley
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING PUMP
19-27
DISCHARGE
FITTING
EXTRACTOR
63x669A
F i g . © — R e m o v i n g Brass
Flow
Control
F i g . 7 0 — R e m o v i n g Flow Control
Ferrule
Retaining
Valve
(1) With the pump reservoir removed, remove the
flow control valve end plug retaining ring and end
plug that is nearest the discharge fitting on the pump
(Fig. 10).
(2) Depress the control valve against spring pressre and allow it to spring back. If the spring is not
broken, the valve should pop out of the bore to a
point where it can be removed. If the valve should
stick, do not force it, but repeat the spring back procedure several times.
NOTE: Gum deposits will cause the control valve to
stick in one position and it will be necessary to
break the valve free by light tapping and repeat
Step 2.
HIGH
FRONT
PRESSURE
HOSE
iNSER
FLARE
NUT
SPANNER
NUT
FERRULE
METERING
INSERT
SLIPPER
BEARING
SPRING
Valve
Ring
If the control valve and bore were fouled by gumming, foreign material, or burrs, the valve and valve
bore should be thoroughly cleaned and flushed and
reassembled.
NOTE: Inspect the flow control valve and valve
bore. If the valve or valve bore in pump body are
badly scored, replace the pump assembly less pulley and reservoir.
(3) Install the control valve spring, seating the
spring in the spring socket.
(4) Remove any burrs with a fine hone or crocus
cloth but Do Not round the valve land corners.
(5) Lubricate with 2084329 power steering fluid
and install the control valve over the control valve
spring and into the bore. When all valve lands have
cleared the retaining ring groove area, work the control valve back and forth against spring pressure until the valve operates smooth and freely.
(6) Install a new " 0 " ring on the end plug.
(7) Lubricate the end plug and " 0 " ring and install
the end plug with the machined projection out.
(8) Install the plug retainer ring with the sharp edge
of ring up.
(9) Install the relief valve if removed.
(10) Install pulley (Fig. 7).
(11) Install a new pump body " 0 " ring, new reservoir gasket and reservoir and brackets.
SLIPPER SPRING REPLACEMENT
l
O"
RELIEF
RING
VALVE
RESERVOIR
63x668
Fig. 9—Pump
Cross Section
Showing
Ferrule
Installed
(1) Remove the pump and bracket from the vehicle.
(2) Remove the bracket and reservoir from the
pump.
(3) Remove the pump pulley (Fig. 4).
(4) Use a center punch to mark the position of the
spanner nut and front insert in the pump housing
(Fig. 11) to insure that the front insert and spanner
nut are returned to the exact same position at reassembly.
MyMopar.com
SPANNER NUT
\
•OIL
PRESS R A M
SEAL
^INSERT
;
J\
^&
\
.1
%\
v
J
J
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ P
TOOL
PUMP
•>
i
PUNCH
MARKS
-BODY
m
63x671
#
F i g . I J — C e n f e r Punch Marks on Pump Body
Spanner Nuf a n d Front Insert
(5) Use a Vk inch drift to loosen and remove the
spanner nut (Fig. 12).
(6) Support the pump housing so that the front insert is clear and use a smooth Vz inch diameter bar
(Fig. 13), press the shaft, rotor and front insert out
of the pump housing.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the pump rear
bearing.
(7) Examine the parts for broken edges or deep
scoring, especially on the rotor and slippers. If either of these conditions are present, then the pump assembly less relief valve, pulley, and reservoir must
be replaced. Small nicks or burrs may be smoothed
with a fine hone.
••NHL*
SPANNER
NUT
63x675
Fig. 7 3 — R e m o v i n g
Shaft
NOTE: The cam insert has two machined notches
(one large and one small) on the inside surface;
these are not to be interpreted as deep scoring.
(8) Smooth off burrs or corners on the pulley end
of the pump shaft, this will prevent shaft oil seal
damage when a new seal is installed.
CAUTION: Do not stone or emery the area on the
shaft the seal lip contacts.
(9) If all parts are in a serviceable condition. Discard all eight slipper springs.
(10) Thoroughly flush and clean all parts with
clean solvent.
NOTE: It is essential that cleanliness be observed
throughout the pump assembly.
(11) Using a piece of soft steel wire 25 inches long,
make three turns around the center of the rotor and
fasten the wire, Fig. 14. Bend ends of wire toward pulley end of shaft. Do not make wire coils too tight or
wire will be difficult to remove.
S
.3:
63x676
63x672
F i g . 1 2 — R e m o v i n g Spanner
Nut
Fig 14—-Slipper Retainer Wire Tool Installed
on Rotor
MyMopar.com
POWER STEERING PUMP
SLIPPER
WIRE
TOOL—
Fig. 15—Installing
6
Slipper
3
x
6
7
19-29
SPRINGS
(8)
7
Springs
CAUTION: Use care when handling the rotor and
shaft since the corners of the rotor are extremely
sharp and must remain sharp for good pump operation. The oil seal and bearing surfaces of the shaft
must remain free of any nicks or burrs.
(12) Use an ordinary wood pencil with the point
broken to install the new springs. Enter the blunt
tapered end of the pencil in the spring and snap the
springs into the pockets in the rotor by turning the
pencil clockwise (Fig. 15). Install the springs and slippers in one rotor slot at a time. Remove the pencil
from the spring with a counter-clockwise rotation. Either end of the spring may be inserted into the rotor
pocket.
NOTE: Make sure the proper springs are installed.
The springs for the .96 pump (small) are not interchangeable with the springs for the 1.2 pump
(large).
(13) Install each slipper by sliding the slipper between the two springs and the wire tool so that the
ends are flush with the rotor. The notched portion of
the slipper must be installed, (Fig. 16).
NOTE: Inspect the springs to make sure they are in
the pockets and in an upright position under the
slipper (Fig. 17).
63x679
Fig. 17—Slippers
and Springs
Properly
Installed
This washer is used to keep the slippers flush with
the end of the rotor.
NOTE: It is important that the slippers remain flush
with the end of the rotor throughout the assembly
operation.
(15) Insert the shaft and rotor assembly with the
flat washer tool and slipper retaining wire tool into
the pump cam insert so that the slippers and rotor are
inside the cam with the end of the shaft resting against
the back face in the housing (Fig. 19).
CAUTION: Do Not attempt to insert the pump
shaft into the bearing at this time.
(16) Hold the washer against the rotor with a screw
driver while removing the wire retaining tool, making
sure that the slippers remain flush with the end of
the rotor.
(17) Line the pump shaft with the lower bearing
and push the shaft, rotor and slippers all the way into
(14) Using a washer of the dimensions shown in
Figure 18 drop it over the pulley end of the shaft.
WIRE
SLIPPERS
TOOL
(4)
Fig. 16—Slippers
LARGE
63x678
(1.2
Properly
Installed
in Pump
Rotor
Fig. 18—Slipper
C U . IN.
PUMP
DISPLACEMENT)
Retaining
Washer
Tool
63x680
Dimensions
MyMopar.com
19-30
POWER STEERING PUMP-
Fig. 7 9 — I n s t a l l i n g Rotor, Shaft and
Assembly
Slippers
the housing until the rotor is flush with the end of
the cam insert.
NOTE: The slipper ends may hang up on the center
openings in the cam insert. If this should occur, rotate the shaft while installing will overcome this
condition.
(18) Remove the special flat washer tool. Make sure
that the springs are in place by rotating the pump
shaft and looking through the notch in each slipper.
(19) Lubricate the rotor and slippers with clean
power steering fluid and rotate the shaft to make sure
the slippers do not bind.
(20) Replace the shaft seal and " 0 " ring seal on
the front insert. Lubricate the shaft seal, " 0 " ring
and shaft with power steering fluid.
(21) After making sure the inner face on the front
insert is smooth and free of burrs, place the insert
assembly on the shaft with care so that the shaft seal
is not damaged by the end of the shaft.
(22) Support the pump housing in an arbor press,
align the center punch marks on the front insert and
the pump body, and using a 1% inch socket with V2
inch drive, press the insert into the pump housing
(Fig. 20).
(23) Install the spanner nut and tighten to the exact
Fig. 20—Installing Front Insert Into Pump
Housing
original position in the housing as indicated by the
pin punch marks placed on the pump body and spanner nut at disassembly.
(24) Install the flow control valve as outlined under
"Flow Control Valve Installation."
(25) Install the pump pulley (Fig. 7).
(26) Install a new " 0 " ring on the pump body and
install the reservoir and pump brackets.
PUMP INSTALLATION
(1) Position the pump on the engine and install the
attaching bolts.
(2) Install the drive belts and adjust. Refer to "Engine Cooling—Group 7" for proper adjustment.
(3) Connect the pressure and return hoses.
(4) Fill the pump reservoir with power steering
fluid Part No. 2084329.
(5) Start the engine, turn the steering wheel all
the way to the left and back all the way to the right
several times to expel the air from the system, then
turn off the ignition switch to stop the engine and
recheck the fluid in the reservoir.
MyMopar.com
•GI0UP 21
TRANSMISSION
CONfiNfS
Page
PAIT 1 — M A N U A L TRANSMISSION . . . . . . . .
Page
3
PART II—TORQUEPLITE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
25
DESCRIPTION
1
DESCRIPTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
25
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
1
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
25
SERVICE PROCEDURES—3-SPEED
3
SERVICE PROCEDURES
43
SERVICE PROCEDURES—4-SPEED
15
TORQUE CONVERTER
63
SPECIFICATIONS AND TIGHTENING
REFERENCE . . . .
SPECIFICATIONS AND TIGHTENING
. . (In Rear of the Manual)
MODEL A - 7 4 5
Description
The heavy duty three speed manual transmission
(Fig. 1), is of the synchromesh type with helical cut
gears to provide silent operation. The countershaft
gear is in constant mesh and is supported by two rows
of needle type bearings at each end. The mainshaft is
supported by ball bearings at each end of the extension housing. The speedometer drive gear is integral
with the mainshaft.
MODEL A - 8 3 3
Description
The A-833 four forward speed synchromesh transmission (Fig. 2) consists of a series of helical gears
designed for high torque capacity and with teeth so
proportioned as to operate at high speeds without excessive friction loss or heat generation. The shafts,
bearings, synchronizers and other precision parts are
held to close tolerances to provide durability during
extended heavy operation.
The main drive pinion is supported by a heavy duty
ball bearing at the rear, and an Oilite bushing pressed
into the end of the crankshaft. The main shaft front
end is piloted in 16 needle type roller bearings, lo-
REFERENCE
(In Rear of the Manual)
cated in a cavity in the end of the main drive pinion
and is supported by a heavy duty ball bearing in the
center of the case. The rear end of the mainshaft is
supported by a ball bearing pressed on the end of
the mainshaft and a snug fit in the end of the extension housing.
The countershaft gear (cluster) is supported by a
double row of needle type roller bearings (38) at each
end and the thrust is taken on thrustwashers between
the ends of the gear and the transmission case. The
alignment of the needle type roller bearing within
the gear are maintained by 4 thrust washers (one being used between the rows of roller bearings and one
at each end).
The reverse idler gear is supported on a bronze
bushing, pressed into the gear.
The gearshifting is manually operated through
shift control rods to the transmission. Any forward
gear may be engaged while the vehicle is in motion
through the use of synchronizing clutches.
The transmission may be used as an aid to deceleration by downshifting in sequence without double
clutching or gear clashing, due to the fact that all
forward speeds are synchronized. (The reverse speed
gear is not synchronized).
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Possible C a u s e
Condition
HARD SHIFTING
Correction
(a) Incorrect clutch adjustment.
(a) Refer to the Clutch Group for corrections.
(b) Improper cross-over adjustment.
(b) Perform the cross-over adjustment as outlined
in "Gearshift Linkage Adjustments."
(c) Synchronizer clutch sleeve damaged.
(d) Synchronizer spring improperly installed.
(e) Broken or worn synchronizer stop rings.
(f) Gearshift housing misaligned. (A-833
(c-d-e) Causes noted can only be corrected by disassembling the transmission a n d replacing damaged or worn parts,
(f) Align gearshift housing. Refer to Page 24.
4-Speed).
MyMopar.com
21-2
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
Possible Cause
Condition
Correction
TRANSMISSION SLIPS
(a) Linkage interference.
OUT O F GEAR
(b) Gearshift rods out of adjustment.
(a) Inspect and remove all linkage interferences.
(b) Adjust the gearshift rods as outlined in " G e a r -
(c) Second or direct speed gear synchronizer
(c) Disassemble the transmission and replace parts
shift Linkage Adjustments."
clutch teeth worn.
(d) Clutch housing bore or face out of alignment.
as necessary.
(d)
Refer to the Clutch Group for correction procedures.
TRANSMISSION
(a) Excessive end play in the countershaft gear.
(a) Replace the thrust washers.
NOISES
(b) Loose synchronizer hub spline fit on mainshaft.
(b) Inspect the mainshaft and synchronizer hub
(c) Loose spline fit on low speed sliding gear to
mainshaft spline.
(c) Inspect the low speed sliding gear and mainshaft. Replace parts as necessary.
Loose spline fit of rear mainshaft flange.
(d)
and replace parts as necessary.
(d)
Inspect the mainshaft and flange splines. Replace parts as necessary.
(e) Damaged, broken or excessively worn gear
(e) Replace the worn gears.
teeth.
(0
Drive pinion bearing worn.
(f)
Replace the worn bearing.
F / g . ? • — A - 7 4 5 Three S p e e d Transmission
(Sectional
View)
F / g . 2 — A - 8 3 3 Four S p e e d Transmission
(Sectional
View)
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
21-3
PART 1
A-745 3-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Gearshift
Linkage
Adjustment
(1) With the 2nd and 3rd control rod disconnected
from the lever on the column and the 1st and reverse
control rod disconnected from the transmission lever,
position both transmission levers in neutral. (The
neutral detent balls must be engaged to make this
adjustment correctly.) To check this, start the engine
(with clutch disengaged) then release the clutch slow-
ly.
(2) Inspect the fore and aft movement of the shift
levers in the steering column. If the movement at
outer end of the levers exceeds j inch, loosen the
two upper bushing screws (Fig. 3) and rotate the bushing (downward) until all free play of the levers has
been removed. Retighten the bushing screws securely.
,(3) Install a wedge or suitable tool between the
cross-over blade and the 2nd and 3rd lever, so that
the cross-over blade is engaged with J>oth lever crossover pins.
(4) Adjust the length of the 2nd. and 3rd. control
rod until the stub shaft of the control rod or swivel
enters the hole in the column lever (Fig. 4). Install
the washer and clip to secure and tighten the swivel
lock nut to 70 inch-pounds torque. During the above
setting, the 2nd. and 3rd. control rod should be adjusted to also position the selector lever (on the column) 5 degrees above horizontal level.
(5) Slide the clamp and swivel (on the end of the
1st and reverse control rod) either in or out, until the
swivel stub shaft enters the hole in the transmission
lever (Fig. 4). Install washers and clip to secure. Determine the mid back-lash position in the linkage,
1
1Q
Fig. 3—Gearshift
Lever
Adjustment
Fig. 4—A-745
Gearshift
Controls
then tighten the control rod lock nut.
(6) Remove the positioning wedge or tool from the
cross-over blade and lever, then move the selector
level through all positions to check adjustments and
to insure cross-over smoothness.
STEERING COLUMN AND GEARSHIFT
Removal
(1) Disconnect the battery cable at the battery negative terminal.
(2) Disconnect the shift linkage rods from the shift
tube levers at the bottom of the steering column assembly.
(3) Remove the steering shaft coupling to wormshaft clamp bolt.
(4) Disconnect the directional signal, and horn
wires.
(5) Compress and turn the horn button Vk turn
counterclockwise to release the button from the retainer.
(6) Remove the horn switch retaining screws.
(7) Disconnect the horn wire clip and remove the
horn switch assembly.
(8) Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and
washer.
(9) Remove the steering wheel, using puller Tool
C-3428.
(10) Disconnect the steering column at the instrument panel bracket by removing the retaining screws
and clamp.
(11) Remove the floor plate to toe board attaching
screws.
(12) Lift the steering column assembly up and off
MyMopar.com
21-4
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED M A N U A L
SWITCH RETAINING
SCREWS (3)
F i g . 5 — S t e e r i n g Column—Upper
End
the end of the wormshaft, and remove the assembly
out through the passenger compartment being careful not to soil or damage the headlining.
F/g. 7 — R e m o v i n g Steering
Disassembly
Place the steering column assembly on a clean
padded bench to protect the paint finish.
(1) Remove the turn signal lever retaining screw
and remove the lever.
(2) Remove the three recessed head switch retaining screws (Fig. 5) and pull the turn signal switch and
switch plate up and out, feeding the wires and connectors through the steering column jacket.
(3) Disengage the column jacket lower seal from
the lip on the jacket, and slide the seal down toward
the coupling.
(4) Exert an upward force on the steering shaft to
force the steering column jacket upper bearing and
insulator up and out of the counterbore in the bearing
housing. Remove the insulator from the bearing.
(5) Using snap ring pliers Tool C-3128, remove the
Shaft
Bearing
bearing upper retainer snap ring from the upper
groove in the steering shaft (Fig. 6).
(6) Using bearing puller Tool C-3891, remove the
steering column upper bearing (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the lower snap ring and slide the steering shaft and coupling assembly down, and out of the
steering column jacket assembly.
(8) Remove the column jacket lower seal from the
steering shaft.
62x453
F i g . 6 — R e m o v i n g Bearing
Upper
Snap
Ring
F i g . 8—Removing
Shift Lever
Pivot Pin
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
N
SPACER
Y
L
O
N
WASHER
LOWER SUPPORT CUP
NUT
21-5
(2)
SPRING
WASHER
B O L T (2)
INSULATOR
BEARING
COLUMN
CLAMP
HOUSING
GEARSHIFT
HOUSING
JACKET
ASSEMBLY
BUSHING RETAINING
SCREWS (2)
CUP ATTACHING
SCREWS (3)
62x552^
Fig. 11—Jacket
Fig. 9 — S t e e r i n g Column—Lower
End
NOTE: The steering shaft and coupling assembly
is serviced as an assembly, and is not to be disassembled.
(9) While supporting the gearshift housing in the
area around the shift lever pivot pin, drive out the
pivot pin, using a / " punch, and remove the shift
lever (Fig. 8).
(10) Remove the three lower support cup to jacket
attaching screws (Fig. 9) and remove the cup.
(11) Remove the nylon thrust washer, the low and
reverse lever, and the spacer.
(12) Remove the two lower shift tube bushing retaining screws at the slotted holes in the jacket.
(13) Slide the shift tube with the 2nd and direct
lever, nylon bushing, spring and spring retainer out
of the jacket (Fig. 10).
3
16
NOTE: The shift tube assembly, with 2nd and direct lever, spring, retainer and nylon bushing are
serviced as an assembly, and are not to be disassembled.
SELECTOR
SHIFT
SPRING •
LEVER
TUBE
AND
ASSEMBLY
1
COLUMN
JACKET
NYLON
BUSHING
62x530A
Fig. 10—Removing
Shift Tube
Assembly
Tube
(Disassembled)
(14) Remove the floor plate from the column jacket.
(15) Remove the hexagon nuts from the two bearing housing retaining bolts, and lift the steering column upper bearing housing off the jacket assembly
(Fig. 11).
(16) Lift the gearshift housing and spring washer
off the steering column jacket.
Inspection
After cleaning, inspect all parts for wear or damage. Note the condition of the pins in the two lower
shift levers, the shift lever socket at the top end of
the shift tube, and the inner end of the shift lever.
Inspect the steering shaft upper bearing for smooth
operation, and lubricate with Multi-Purpose Chassis
Lubricant or similar lubricant. If the bearing has any
signs of roughness or wear, it should be replaced. Replacement bearings are pre-lubricated.
Assembly
(1) Position the spring washer on the ledge provided in the top end of the steering column jacket
(Fig. 11) and place the shift lever housing in position
at the top end of the column jacket.
(2) Place the two bearing housing retaining bolts
in position in the housing, and just start the nuts on
them.
(3) Stand the column assembly upright, and lower
the bearing housing into position, engaging the bolt
heads in the slots in the column jacket.
(4) Tighten the two retainer bolt nuts alternately
and evenly in steps to prevent unseating the bolt
heads from the slots. Tighten to 50 inch pounds.
(5) Position the floor plate isolator in the opening
in the plate. Lubricate the isolator with a soap solution or rubber lubricant, then slide the floor plate assembly on the steering column with the insulated side
down.
(6) The floor plate assembly must be installed before installing the shift tube and levers, since this
cannot be done after the shift tube and levers are in
place in the steering column.
MyMopar.com
21-6
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED M A N U A L '
NOTE: Metal to metal working surfaces should be
lubricated with Multi-Purpose lubricant to facilitate
installation.
(7) Turn the nylon bushing on the shift tube, (Fig.
10) so the two holes in the bushing are aligned with
the centerline of the 2nd and 3rd speed shift lever,
then slide the shift tube and lever assembly through
the jacket tube and into the bearing housing.
(8) Install the spacer around the selector lever so
it rests against the 2nd and 3rd speed shift lever.
(9) Install the low and reverse lever. Then install
the nylon washer, centering it over the end of the
shift tube.
(10) Install the lower support-cup in the jacket (Fig.
9), while holding pressure against the cup to overcome the selector spring load, start the three support
cup retaining screws, and tighten to 30 inch pounds.
(11) Loosely enter the lower bushing retaining
screws through the slots in the jacket, and into the
nylon bushing (Fig. 10).
(12) Rotate the nylon bushing to where all play at
the shift levers and spacers is eliminated, but no
binding occurs. With the bushing in this position,
tighten the two bushings to jacket screws to 30 inch
pounds torque.
NOTE: The shift tube must be free to slide up and
down in its bushing. No binding is permissable.
(13) The gearshift lever insulator should be examined, and if any wear or damage is evident, it should
be pulled off the lever and replaced.
NOTE:
o r n gearshift lever insulator will result
in a "thumping" or rattling sound in the steering
column.
(14) Place a screw driver blade between the 2nd
and 3rd speed shift lever and the selector lever, so it
will hold the selector lever at neutral position half
way between the two shift levers (Fig. 12).
W
SELECTOR LEVER
1
IN NEUTRAL
COLUMN LOWER
SEAL
\ f.i
?•
SCREW
D"IVEP
"
62x454
Pig. 12—Holding S e l e c t o r l e v e r In Neutral
\
83ARif-'G
i
••FX
1
\
\
SNAP
RING
INSTALLING
SLEEVE # C 3 8 7 9
62x52i
Pig. 13—Installing Steering Column Upper
Bearing
(15) Position the gearshift lever in the shift lever
housing so it engages the hole in the shift tube plate
with the pin hole aligned.
(16) Support the jacket tube housing in the area
around the pin hole (Fig. 8) and drive the pivot pin
in flush with the housing.
NOTE: Before sliding the column jacket lower seal
onto
shaft,
seal
be
cated. Fill
in
inside diameter of
seal,
two
seal
fibre wheel
(17) Slide the seal onto the steering shaft, and
down against the coupling, with the lip at the outside
diameter facing upward, so the seal can be positioned
the steering
the
should lubrithe cavity the
the
between the
moulded
bushings with
short
bearing lubricant.
on the lower end of the column jacket during assembly.
(18) Slide the steering shaft into the column assembly, and install the horseshoe shaped lower snap
ring in the lower groove on the steering shaft.
(19) Place the steering column upper bearing on
the steering shaft.
(20) Position the wavy upper snap ring against the
top of the bearing.
Place bearing installing sleeve Tool C-3879 and the
steering wheel retaining washer and nut, on the top
of the steering shaft in that order (Fig. 13).
NOTE: Never press the
into position with
a sleeve that exerts pressure against the outer race,
since this would damage the
Do not drive
the
into place with a hammer, since damage to the
and
shaft
will
occur.
(21) Turn the steering wheel retaining nut to exert
pressure on the installing sleeve, upper snap ring,
and bearing, pressing the bearing down onto the
knurled section of the steering tube and against the
lower snap ring.
(22) Exert sufficient pressure against the upper
snap ring to flatten it against the bearing so it can
enter the groove in the steering tube. Be sure the
snap ring is firmly seated in the groove.
bearing
bearing
bearing
bearing.
steering
coupling
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEID MANUAL
(23) Place the insulator over the bearing, then slide
the steering shaft, bearing and insulator downward
into the counterbore provided in the bearing housing.
(24) Position the directional switch assembly in the
bearing housing, while feeding the turn signal and
horn wires through the steering column and out
through the opening provided in the column jacket.
(25) Place the switch plate over the switch, and install the three switch retaining screws (Fig. 5). Tighten screws to 24 inch pounds torque.
(26) Position the turn signal lever in the assembly,
sighting down through the hole in the switch to align
the screw hole, and install the lever attaching screw.
Tighten screws to 24 inch pounds torque.
Installation
(In the
Vehicle)
(1) Insert the column and jacket tube assembly
through the floor pan opening, being careful not to
soil or damage the headlining.
(2) Position the clamp on the coupling and with
the master splines on the worn shaft and coupling
aligned, engage the column coupling with the steering
gear worm shaft.
(3) Loosely fasten the steering column jacket to the
instrument panel bracket with the clamp and the two
attaching screws. Be sure the tab on the clamp is entered in the locating slot in the column jacket.
(4) With the steering shaft coupling clamp in position on the coupling assembly, install the clamp bolt
so that it engages the groove in the wormshaft. Tighten clamp bolt nut to 30 foot pounds torque.
(5) Position the steering jacket assembly so the
steering shaft coupling is centered at the midpoint
of its travel.
NOTE: With the steering column jacket clamp bolts
loose, "free travel" in the steering shaft coupling
along with the slotted bolt holes in the column
clamp; permits the jacket and steering shaft assembly to move up and down (axially).
(6) Move the column assembly up or down in the
GAUGE
21-7
instrument panel bracket so the rear edge of the
coupling boot aligns with the gauge hole in the shaft
(Fig. 14). Tighten the steering column bracket clamp
screws securely.
(7) With the coupling centered, tighten the column
jacket to instrument panel clamp bolts to 95 inch
pounds torque.
(8) Push the floor plate down to contact the toe
board, and start the floor plate to toe board attaching bolts, leaving them just loose enough so the floor
plate can be shifted to align the lower end of the column jacket.
(9) Visually inspect to be sure the lower end of the
column jacket and shifter tube assembly is concentric
with the steering shaft. If they are not concentric,
shift the floor plate to a position where it holds the
column jacket and shift tube assembly concentric
with the steering shaft and tighten the floor plate to
toe board attaching screws to 90 inch pounds.
NOTE: If the column jacket and shift tube assembly are not concentric it is possible for the steering
shaft to rub on the inside surface of the shifter
tube at the lower end.'
(10) Recheck the lower end of the column jacket
and shift tube assembly, to assure that they have remained concentric with the steering shaft after tightening the attaching screws.
(11) Slide the steering column lower seal up to the
bottom end of the column jacket, and force the outer
lip of the seal into position around the flanged lower
end of the column jacket and shift tube assembly
(Fig. 12).
(12) With the master splines in the steering wheel
hub and steering shaft aligned, place the steering
wheel on the steering shaft.
(13) Install the steering wheel retaining washer and
nut. Tighten the steering wheel nut to 24 foot pounds
torque.
(14) Install any horn switch parts previously removed from the steering wheel, and install the horn
button or horn ring.
REAR OIL SEAL
HOLE
Remove/
(1) Disconnect the propeller shaft at the transmission flange and secure the shaft to the frame member
for working clearance.
(2) Hold the mainshaft with Tool C-3281, tKfen remove the flange nut and washer.
(3) Remove the transmission flange, using Tool C452 if necessary.
(4) Remove the oil seal, using Tool C-748.
Installation
Fig. 7 4 — P o s i t i o n i n g Steering
Shaft
Coupling
(1) Drive a new seal into the extension housing,
using Tool C-3837.
MyMopar.com
21-8
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL-
(2) Install the transmission flange, washer and nut.
Tighten nut to 175 foot-pounds torque.
flange
(3) Reconnect the propeller shaft and tighten the
nuts to 30 foot-pounds torque.
MAJOR SERWIC1NG 3-SPEED MANUAL A-745
Removal
IMPORTANT: To remove the transmission, it will
be necessary to first remove the torsion bar rear
anchor crossmember and rubber isolators. Refer to
Group 2, "Torsion Bar Rubber Isolator," then remove the transmission as follows:
(1) Drain the lubricant from the transmission.
(2) Disconnect the propeller shaft, speedometer cable and housing and the gearshift control rods. Remove speedometer cable (pinion comes out with cable) with hand so that housing is not crushed.
(3) Remove the back-up light switch leads (if so
equipped).
(4) Install engine support fixture C-3487, mounting
firmly into the holes in the side frame members with
the support ends up against the underside of the oil
pan flange.
(5) Raise the engine slightly with the support fixture. Disconnect transmission extension housing from
the removable center crossmember.
(6) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
Tap out the four long bolts and remove the center
crossmember (Fig. 15). Remove the bolts that attach
the transmission to the clutch housing.
(7) Slide the transmission rearward until the pinion
shaft clears the clutch disc before lowering the transmission. (This precaution will avoid damaging the
clutch disc).
(8) Lower the transmission and remove from under
the vehicle.
(9) Remove the rear motor support and crossmember, then mount the transmission in repair stand DD1014.
DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble the transmission for cleaning and
overhaul, refer to (Fig. 16), then proceed as follows:
(1) Using Tool C-3281, flange holding tool, remove
the flange retaining nut and washer.
(2) If necessary, attach puller Tool C-452, and remove the flange assembly.
(3) Remove the bolts that attach the cover to the
case. Remove the cover then discard the gasket.
(4) Using a pair of feeler gauges, measure the synchronizer float. The measurement of the "float" should
be taken before any further disassembly of the transmission is attempted.
(5) The synchronizer "float" should be between
.050 and .090 inch, when measured between the synchronizer outer ring pin and the opposite synchronizer outer ring (Fig. 17). This measurement must be
made on two pins, 180 degrees apart with equal gap
on both ends for "float" determination.
(6) There should be a snug fit between the pins
and the outer rings, similar to that obtained when
measuring with a micrometer.
Extension Housing
(1) Remove the bolts and one nut that attaches the
extension housing to the transmission case. Slide the
extension housing off the mainshaft. Discard the gasket.
Drive Pinion
(1) Remove the bolts that attach the main drive
pinion bearing retainer, then slide the retainer off the
pinion. Discard the gasket and drive the seal out of
the retainer, using a suitable drift.
(2) Grasp the pinion shaft and pull the assembly
out of the case slightly, then slide the synchronizer
front inner stop ring from the short splines on the
pinion as the pinion assembly is being removed from
the case, (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove the snap ring (Fig. 19), which locks the
main drive pinion bearing on the pinion shaft, using
snap ring pliers. Remove the pinion bearing washer,
then carefully press the pinion shaft out of the bearing, using an arbor press. Remove the oil slinger.
(4) Remove snap ring and 15 bearing rollers from
the cavity in the end of the drive pinion.
Mainshaft
Fig. 15—Removing or Installing
C r o s s m e m b e r (Auto. Trans.
Center
Shown!
(1) With the transmission in reverse, remove the
outer center bearing snap ring, using a hook or a flat
blade, then partially remove the mainshaft.
MyMopar.com
J
COVER
BOLT
COVER
G E A R - F I R S T A N D REVERSE
SYNCHRONIZER
,
UNIT
<
NUT
LOCKWASHER
BOLT
A N D WASHER
WASHER
BUSHING \ \
WASHER
<' A
\
\^~
X
\
\
NUT
LOCKWASHER
TAPERED P I N
BOLT
BUSHING
A N D WASHER
GROMMET
LOCKWASHER
GROMMET
61
Fig.
16—A-745
Transmission
x
325C
(Disassembled)
MyMopar.com
21-10
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED M A N U A L
CLUTCH GEAR
SLEEVE
SYNCHRONIZER
STOP INNER RING
SYNCHRONIZER
STOP
INNER
RING
SPREADER
RING
-SYNCHRONIZER
OUTER
RING
Fig. 2 0 — A - 7 4 5 Synchronizer
Fig.
1 7 — M e a s u r i n g Synchronizer
STOP
ASSY'S.
61x120 A
Unit
(2) Cock the mainshaft, then remove the clutch
sleeve, the outer synchronizer rings, the front inner
ring and the 2-3 shift fork (Fig. 20).
(3) Remove the clutch gear retaining snap ring, using snap ring pliers (Fig. 21). Slide the clutch gear off
the end of the mainshaft.
(4) Slide the second speed gear, stop ring and the
synchronizer spring off the mainshaft (Fig. 22).
"Float"
V~^,CLUTCH
GEAR
61x121
NY854A
F i g . 7 8 — R e m o v i n g Drive Pinion
Fig.
Assembly
7 9 — D r i v e Pinion Assembly
Fig. 2 7 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Fig. 22—Mainshaft
Snap
Assembly
Ring
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
L O W A N D REVERSE
SHIFT
21-11
n
FORK
S E C O N D A N D DIRECT
S E C O N D A N D DIRECT
FORK
LEVER
MAINSHAFT
INTERMEDIATE
BEARING-
LOW
A N D REVERSE
FORK
L O W A N D REVERSE
S L I D I N G GEAR
MAINSHAFT
Fig. 2 3 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
NY856B
Mainshaft
(5) Remove the low and reverse sliding gear and
shift fork, (Fig. 23), as the mainshaft is completely
withdrawn from the case.
Countershaft
f
LEVER
Fig. 25—A-745
Shift
Forks
and
Levers
Gear
(1) Using a feeler gauge measure the end play of
the countershaft gear (Fig. 24). The end play should
be from .0045 to .028 inch. This measurement will
determine if new thrust washers are to be installed
at reassembly.
(2) Using the countershaft bearing arbor Tool C3834, drive the countershaft toward the rear of the
case until the small key can be removed from the
countershaft.
(3) Drive the countershaft the remaining way out
of the case, keeping the arbor tight against the end
of the countershaft to prevent loss of the bearing
rollers.
(4) Remove the countershaft gear thrust washers
and the thrust plate from the case.
(5) Remove the bearing rollers, washers and the
center spacer from the countershaft gear.
Reverse
C H E C K E N D PLAY
A T THRUST WASHERS
F i g . 24—Countershaft
and
Reverse
COUNTERSHAFT
GEAR
Idler
Gears
Idler
Gear
(1) Using a suitable drift, drive the reverse idler
gear shaft towards the rear and out of the case. Remove the woodruff key from the end of the shaft.
(2) Lift the reverse idler gear, thrust washers and
bearing rollers (22) out of the case. Remove the bearing rollers from the gear.
Gearshift
NY857A
L O W A N D REVERSE
61x3
Mechanism
(This operation need only be done if the seals are
leaking).
(1) Remove the operating levers from their respective shafts.
(2) Drive out the tapered retaining pin from either
of the two lever shafts, then withdraw levershaft from
inside the transmission. (The detent balls are spring
loaded; as the shaft is being withdrawn, the ball will
drop to the bottom of the case.)
(3) Remove the interlock sleeve, spring, pin and
both balls from the case (Fig. 25). Drive out the remaining tapered pin, then slide the lever shaft out
of the transmission.
(4) Using a suitable drift, drive out the lever shaft
oil seals and discard.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
21-12
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the transmission case thoroughly, using a
suitable solvent, dry with compressed air. Inspect the
case for cracks, stripped threads in the various bolt
holes and the machined mating surfaces for burrs,
nicks or any condition that would render the case unfit for further service. The front mating surface
should be smooth; if any burrs are present, dress
them off with a fine mill file. If threads are stripped,
install Helicoil inserts.
Ball
Bearings
Wash the ball bearing, using a clean solvent and
blow dry with compressed air.
CAUTION: Do not spin the hearings with air pressure; turn slowly by hand. Spinning unlubricated
bearings may cause damage to the races and the
balls.
Be sure the ball bearings are clean, then lubricate
them with light grade engine oil. Inspect the bearings
for roughness. This can best be determined by slowly
turning the outer race by hand. Measure the fit of
the bearings on their respective shafts.
Needle
Type Bearing
Rollers
and
Spacers
Inspect all bearing rollers for flat spots or brinelling. Inspect all bearing roller spacers for signs of
wear or galling. Install new parts as required.
Gears
Inspect the gear teeth on the synchronizer clutch
gears and stop rings. If there is evidence of chipping
or excessively worn teeth, install new parts at reassembly. Be sure the clutch sleeve slides easily on the
clutch gear. Inspect the countershaft gear and all sliding gear teeth for chipped or broken teeth, or showing signs of excessive wear. Small nicks or burrs must
be stoned off.
Inspect the teeth on the main drive pinion. If excessively worn, broken or chipped, a new pinion
should be installed.
Test the interlock sleeve and pin for free movement in the bore of the shift housing. Examine the
detent balls for signs of brinelling. If the lever detents show signs of excessive wear to the extent of
not locking in gear, install a new part. Inspect the
shift forks for wear on the shanks and pads.
Synchronizer
Slop
Rings
Inspect the stop rings for cracks at the corners of
the shift plate indexing slots. If the rings are cracked
or show signs of extreme wear on the threaded bore,
install new rings at reassembly.
Mainshaft
Inspect the mainshaft gear and bearing mating surfaces. If the gear contact surfaces show signs of gall-
ing or excessive wear, a new mainshaft should be
installed.
Inspect the snap ring grooves for burred edges. I f
rough or burred, remove the condition using a fine
file or crocus cloth. Inspect the synchronizer clutch
gear teeth on the shaft for burrs.
ASSEMBLY
Countershaft
Gear
To reassemble the transmission, refer to (Fig. 16),
then proceed as follows:
NOTE: If countershaft gear end play was found to
exceed .028 inch during disassembly, install new
thrust washers.
(1) Slide the countershaft gear bearing roller spacer over arbor Tool C-3834. Coat the bore of the gear
with lubricant and slide the tool and spacer in the
gear bore.
(2) Lubricate the bearing rollers with heavy grease
and install 22 rollers next to spacer in each end of
the gear in the area around the arbor. Place a bearing
spacer ring in each end of the gear next to the bearing rollers and install another row of 22 rollers in
each end. Coat with heavy grease and install the bearing spacer in each end of the gear.
(3) Coat with heavy grease and install front thrust
washer over the arbor at the front of the countershaft gear, with the tabs outward. Install the tabbed
rear thrust washer over the arbor with the tabs positioned in the grooves in the gear.
(4) Install the remaining rear thrust washer plate
over the arbor at the rear of the gear. The washer
plate must be installed so the step on the plate will
engage on ledge inside rear of the case, thus preventing plate rotation. Install the gear and arbor in the
case making sure the front thrust washer tabs slide
into the grooves in the case, and the rear thrust washer step engages on the ledge.
(5) Using the countershaft and a soft hammer,
drive the arbor forward out of the cluster gear and
through the bore in the front of the case. Before driving countershaft all the way into case, be sure keyway
is positioned in line with key recess in rear of case.
Insert shaft key and continue to drive countershaft
forward in case until key is bottomed in recess.
Reverse
Idler
Gear
(1) Position arbor Tool C-464 in the reverse idler
gear and using heavy grease, install 22 roller bearings
in the gear.
(2) Place the front and rear thrust washers at each
end of the reverse idler gear, and position the assembly in the transmission case with the chamfered end
of the gear teeth toward the front.
(3) Insert the reverse idler shaft into the bore at
rear of case with keyway to rear, pushing the arbor
toward the front of the transmission.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
(4) With keyway aligned with recess in case, drive
the shaft forward, inserting key before the keyway
is obscured. Continue driving shaft forward until key
seats in recess.
Gearshift
2ND
SPREADER
SPEED
GEAR
SPRING
li
Mechanism
To install the gearshift mechanism, refer to (Fig.
25), then proceed as follows:
(1) Place two new shift lever shaft seals centered
in their bores in the case. Using Tool C-3766, drive
both seals into the case, until the tool bottoms.
(2) Install seal protector, Tool C-3767, on the end
of low and reverse lever shaft, then slide the shaft
into the rear boss of the case and through the seal.
Lock in position with the tapered pin. Turn the lever
until the center detent is in line with the interlock
bore.
(3) Slide the interlock sleeve in its bore in the case
followed by one of the interlock balls. Install the interlock spring and pin.
(4) Place the remaining interlock ball on top of
the interlock spring, using Tool C-3765, (Fig. 26). (A
good method of installing the second ball is to stick
the ball in the tool recess by means of lubricant, then
use the tool to position the ball on the detent spring.)
(5) Install seal protector Tool C-3767, on the second and high lever shaft, depress the interlock ball,
using Tool C-3765 and at the same time install the
second and high lever into the fully seated position,
with the center detent aligned with the detent ball.
Remove the tool. Secure the lever shaft with the remaining tapered pin.
(6) Install the operating levers, install and tighten
the retaining nuts securely.
(7) Place the low and reverse fork in the lever
shaft, with the offset toward rear of transmission.
TOOL
61x4
Fig. 26—Installing
21-13
Detent
Bails
!
\
INSERT
AGAINST
SHIM
THIS
FACE
•Map
4
'. V
Fig. 27—Synchronizer
.Jj'ru
"Float™ Shim
64x498
Location
Mainshaft
(1) While holding the low and reverse sliding gear
in position in fork, with the hub extension to rear,
insert the mainshaft with rear bearing through the
rear of the case and into the sliding gear.
(2) Place the synchronizer spreader spring, and
then the rear stop ring on the synchronizer splines
of the 2nd speed gear. Install the 2nd speed gear on
the mainshaft, (and/or shims if required).
In cases where the synchronizer "float" measurement was above .090 inch, synchronizer shims should
be installed to reduce the "float" to .090 inch or less.
Install the shim on the shoulder of the second speed
gear, before the spreader spring is installed, (Fig. 27).
If the synchronizer "float" is below .050 inch, material should be removed from the ends of all six synchronizer pins (an equal amount) until the synchronizer "float" is above the .050 inch dimension.
(3) Install the synchronizer clutch gear on the
mainshaft.
(4) Install the synchronizer clutch gear snap ring
in the mainshaft groove. Make certain the ring is bottomed all the way around in the groove.
(5) Measure the clearance between the clutch gear
and 2nd speed gear. Clearance should be .004 to .014
inch. End play in excess of .014 inch may cause the
2nd speed gear to "Jump out."
(6) Install the 2nd and direct fork in the lever
shaft. Hold the synchronizer clutch gear sleeve and
two outer rings together, with pins properly entered
in the holes in the clutch gear sleeve. Engage the 2nd
and direct fork with the clutch gear sleeve.
(7) While holding the synchronizer parts and fork
in position, slide the mainshaft forward, entering the
synchronizer clutch gear into the clutch gear sleeve
and at the same time entering the mainshaft rear
bearing in the case bore. If synchronizer parts are
MyMopar.com
21-14
TRANSMISSION—3-SPEED MANUAL
not positioned as described in steps 6 and 7, it will
not be possible to place them in position after mainshaft is fully in position, due to interference with
countershaft gear.
(8) While continuing to hold the synchronizer parts
in position, tap the mainshaft forward until the rear
bearing bottoms in the case bore.
(9) Install the mainshaft rear bearing snap ring in
place in the groove in the case bore. This snap ring is
a select fit.
Drive
Pinion
(1) Slide the oil slinger (if removed) over the pinion shaft and down against the gear, (Fig. 19).
(2) Slide the bearing over the pinion shaft (snap
ring groove away from the gear end), then seat on
the shaft, using an arbor press.
(3) Secure the bearing and washer with the selected
thickness snap ring. Four snap rings are available to
eliminate end play (same thickness as clutch gear and
mainshaft snap rings).
Be sure the snap ring is properly seated. If the large
snap ring around the bearing was removed, install at
this time.
(4) Place the pinion shaft in a vise (with soft jaws),
then install 25 bearing rollers in the cavity of the
shaft. Coat the bearing rollers with heavy grease, then
install the bearing retaining ring in its groove.
(5) Install the third gear inner stop ring, (Fig. 20),
in the third gear outer stop ring. Guide the drive pinion through the front of the case and engage the inner
stop ring with the clutch teeth, then seat the pinion
bearing.
The pinion shaft bearing is fully seated when the
snap ring is in full contact with the case.
(6) Install a new seal in the pinion bearing retainer, using Tool C-3789.
(7) Using a new gasket, install the drive pinion
and retainer in the case. Install attaching bolts and
tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.
Extension
Housing
(1) Install the bearing and a new seal in the extension housing using seal driver, Tool C-3837.
(2) Slide the extension housing and gasket over the
mainshaft and down against the case, at the same
time guiding the shaft into the oil seal. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 50 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Install the flange assembly, and secure with a
new washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 175 foot
pounds torque while holding the flange with Tool C3281.
(4) Lightly lubricate the cover gasket surface, then
install gasket and cover. Install the attaching bolts
and tighten to 144 inch-pounds torque.
(5) Install the drain plug and back-up light switch
(if so equipped) and tighten securely.
(6) Refill the transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid, Type "A," Suffix "A." Install filler
plug and tighten securely.
Installation
NOTE: Place a small amount of short Fibre wheel
bearing lubricant around the inner end of the main
drive pinion shaft pilot bushing in the flywheel and
on the pinion bearing retainer release bearing
sleeve area. Do not lubricate the end of the pinion
shaft, the clutch disc splines, or the clutch release
levers.
(1) Remove the transmission from the repair stand,
place it on a suitable jack and slide the assembly
under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the transmission until the drive pinion
shaft is centered in the clutch housing bore.
(3) Roll the transmission slowly forward until the
pinion shaft enters the clutch disc. Turn the pinion
shaft until the splines are aligned, then push transmission forward until seated against clutch housing.
Do not allow the transmission to "hang" after the
pinion has entered the clutch disc.
(4) Install the transmission attaching bolts and
tighten to 50 foot pounds. Remove the jack.
(5) Install the center crossmember and the four
long bolts, position the isolator assemblies over the
bolts, install and tighten the retaining nuts to 50
foot-pounds torque. Make sure the extension housing
insulator and/or spring is in place, install and tighten
retaining bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(6) Remove the engine support fixture and disengage the hooks from the holes in the frame side rails.
(7) Refer to Group 2 and reinstall the torsion bars
and parts as outlined in "Torsion Bar Rubber Isolator."
(8) Install the speedometer pinion and cable. Reconnect the gearshift rods, propeller shaft, and backup light switch leads.
(9) Road test the vehicle, making sure the transmission shifts smoothly and operates quietly.
(10) If the shift linkage requires adjustment, refer
to Page 3.
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
21 15
4-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION MODEL A-833
SERWiCE PROCEDURES
Gearshift
Linkage
Adjustment
(1) Remove the shift boot attaching screws and
slide the boot up on the shift lever. Test to be sure
the pivot bolt is tightened securely (55 foot-pounds),
(Fig. 28). Test to be sure shift lever bolts are tightened securely (30 foot-pounds).
(2) Disconnect all the shift rods from the levers at
the adjusting swivels by removing the spring clip retainers and flatwashers.
(3) Slide Tool C-3951 over the levers, inserting center pin through the first two levers (Fig. 28). Tighten
set screw securely. (This aligns the 3 levers in the
gear shift control assembly, and holds them in the
neutral position.
(4) Adjust the length of the three shift rods, by
turning the swivels either in or out until the swivel
stub shafts match the control rod lever holes (Transmission shift operating levers must be in the neutral
detent position during this adjustment.) Install the
swivel stub shafts and secure with the flat washers
and spring clip retainers.
(5) Remove the lever aligning tool.
(6) With the transmission hand shift lever in the
Fig. 28—Gearshift
third or fourth speed detent position, adjust the lever
stop screw (front and rear) to provide from .020 to
.040 inch clearance between the lever and the stops.
When this adjustment has been made, tighten the adjusting screw locknuts securely.
(7) Inspect the linkage for ease of shifting into all
gears and for smoothness of crossover and handshift
lever clearances.
CAUTION: Because there is no reverse gear interlock, it is very important that the transmission
linkage adjustments are correctly performed in order to prevent the possibility of engagement into
two gears at the same time.
(8) Slide the boot down the shift lever shaft to the
floor pan and secure with attaching screws.
REAR OIL SEAL
Removal
(1) Disconnect the propeller shaft at the transmission flange and secure the shaft to the frame member
for working clearance.
(2) Hold the mainshaft with Tool C-3281, then remove the flange nut and washer.
Linkage
Adjustments
MyMopar.com
21-16
TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
(3) Remove the transmission flange, using Tool C452 if necessary.
(4) Remove the oil seal, using Tool C-748.
Installation
(1) Drive a new seal into the extension housing,
using Tool C-3837.
(2) Install the transmission flange, washer and nut.
Tighten nut to 175 foot-pounds torque.
(3) Reconnect the propeller shaft and tighten the
flange nuts to 30 foot-pounds torque.
MAJOR SERVICING 4-SPEED MANUAL A-833
Removal
IMPORTANT: To remove the transmission, it will
be necessary to remove the torsion bar rear anchor
crossmember and rubber isolators. Refer to Group
2, "Torsion Bar Rubber Isolator," then remove the
transmission as follows:
(1) Remove the console trim plate. Remove shift
lever boot screws and slide the boot up on the lever.
Shift the transmission into reverse, lubricate lever
opening in lower boot and push boot down over bolt
heads, unscrew the two bolts and remove shift lever.
(2) Drain the lubricant from the transmission.
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft, speedometer cable, and pinion. When removing the speedometer cable, care should be used, so as not to crush the housing. Remove by hand.
(4) Disconnect the left hand exhaust pipe (dual exhaust) from the exhaust manifold.
(5) Disconnect the parking brake control cable.
(6) Disconnect the back-up light switch leads at the
connector. (If so equipped.)
(7) Install the engine support fixture C-3487, en-
gaging the hooks in the holes in the frame side members. Be sure the support ends are up against the underside of the oil pan flange.
(8) Raise the engine slightly with the support fixture. Disconnect transmission extension housing from
the removable center crossmember.
(9) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
Tap out the four long bolts and remove the center
crossmember (Fig. 15). Remove the bolts that attach
the transmission to the clutch housing.
(10) Rotate the transmission until the shift housing and stub lever clear, then slide the transmission
toward the rear until the main drive pinion shaft
clears the clutch disc, before lowering the transmission. (This will avoid damaging the clutch disc.)
(11) Lower the transmission and remove from under the vehicle. Thoroughly clean the exterior of the
unit, preferably by steam. Mount the transmission in
repair stand DD1014, (Fig. 29).
DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble the transmission for repair or overhaul, refer to Figs. 28, 29 and 30.
64 x 738
Fig. 29—A-833
Transmission
in Repair
Stand
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TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED M A N U A L
Fig. 3 0 — T r a n s m i s s i o n Assembly
21-17
(Disassembled)
MyMopar.com
21-18
TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
1. B e a r i n g R e t a i n e r
2 5 . Extension Housing
5 0 . T h r u s t w a s h e r , G e a r (1)
2. Bearing Retainer G a s k e t
26. Mainshaft Rear Bearing
51. Thrustwasher, Needle
3. Bearing Retainer O i l S e a l
27. Rear Bearing O i l Seal
4. S n a p Ring, Bearing (Inner)
28. Companion
5. S n a p Ring, Bearing (Outer)
29.
Washer
6. Pinion B e a r i n g
30.
Nut
7. Transmission C a s e
3 1 . M a i n Drive Pinion
8 . F i l l e r Plug
32. O i l Slinger
56. T h r u s t w a s h e r , N e e d l e
7 9 . L o c k w a s h e r , Lever
9. G e a r , 2nd Speed
3 3 . N e e d l e B e a r i n g Rollers
10. S t o p Ring
7 2 . R e v e r s e O p e r a t i n g Lever
73.
Roller
Flange
5 2 . N e e d l e B e a r i n g Rollers
75.
53. Bearing Spacer
7 6 . G e a r s h i f t C o n t r o l Housing
5 4 . C o u n t e r s h a f t G e a r (Cluster)
77.
1st a n d 2 n d O p e r a t i n g
5 5 . N e e d l e B e a r i n g Rollers
78.
Flatwasher
Roller
Nut
81. Lockwasher, Lever
5 7 . T h r u s t w a s h e r , G e a r (1)
11. Shift P l a t e S p r i n g s
3 5 . S t o p Ring
5 8 . B a c k u p Light Switch
8 2 . Flatwasher, Lever
12. C l u t c h G e a r
3 6 . S n a p Ring
5 9 . B a c k u p Light Switch G a s k e t
8 3 . 3 r d a n d 4th O p e r a t i n g
1 3 . Shift Plates (3)
3 7 . Shift P l a t e S p r i n g
60.
84. Detent Ball
61. Retainer, Reverse Detent Ball
Plug
3 8 . Clutch G e a r
3 9 . Shift Plate S p r i n g
1 6 . 1st a n d 2 n d C l u t c h S l e e v e G e a r
40. Clutch Sleeve
62.
17. S t o p Ring
4 1 . S t o p Ring
6 3 . S p r i n g , Reverse Detent Ball
8 8 . Detent B a l l
1 8 . 1st S p e e d G e a r
42. 3rd Speed G e a r
6 4 . B a l l , R e v e r s e Detent
8 9 . O i l S e a l (2)
8 6 . Detent Ball Sleeve
Spring
87. Detent Ball Spring
Gasket
1 9 . B e a r i n g Retaining Ring
4 3 . S p e e d o m e t e r Drive Pinion
65. Woodruff Key
9 0 . 3 r d a n d 4th Lever
20. Center Bearing
4 4 . S p e e d o m e t e r Drive C l i p
66.
Reverse S l i d e r G e a r S h a f t
91.
2 1 . S n a p Ring
4 5 . S p e e d o m e t e r Drive Pinion S e a l
67.
Bushing, Reverse Slider G e a r
9 2 . 3 r d a n d 4 t h S p e e d Fork
2 2 . G a s k e t , C a s e to E x t e n s i o n Housing
46. Mainshaft
68.
G e a r , Reverse Slider
93.
23. Lockwasher
4 7 . Shift Plates (3)
24.
Bolt
Lever
8 5 . D e t e n t B a l l Pin
14. S h i f t Plate S p r i n g
1 5 . S n a p Ring
(Output)
Lever
8 0 . N u t , Lever
Bearing
3 4 . S n a p Ring
Flatwasher
74. Lockwasher
Bearing
1st a n d 2 n d Lever
1st a n d 2 n d S p e e d Fork
6 9 . Fork, Reverse Shifter
9 4 . D r a i n Plug
48. Woodruff Key
70.
9 5 . G a s k e t , Shift C o n t r o l Housing
49.
7 1 . O i l S e a l , Reverse L e v e r S h a f t
Countershaft
R e v e r s e Lever
Legend for Figure 3 0
(1) Disconnect the gearshift control rods from the
shift control levers (Fig. 28), and the transmission operating levers, by removing the spring retainer clips
and the flatwashers.
(2) Remove the two gearshift control housing
mounting bolts, then remove the gearshift control
housing from the transmission extension housing or
mounting bracket. Remove the gearshift control housing mounting bracket bolts and remove bracket.
(3) Remove the back-up light switch. (If so
equipped.)
(4) Using holding tool C-3281 remove the companion flange attaching nut and washer, then slide the
flange from the end of the mainshaft (output).
3RD
GEAR
AND
A N D 4TH SPEED
LEVERS
IN
SHIFTER SHAFT
NEUTRAL
DETENT
POSITION
PLATE
1ST A N D
GEAR
AND
2ND
SPEED
SHIFTER
SHAFT
DETENT
PLATE
Gearshift
Housing
Shift Housing
Assembly
Mechanism
The following three steps need only be done, if oil
leakage is visible around the gearshift lever shafts.
(2) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and flatwashers
that attach the first and second, third and 4th speed
shift operating levers to the shafts. Disengage the
shift levers from the flats on the shafts and remove.
Fig. 32—Removing
Fig. 31—Transmission
and
(1) Remove the bolts that attach the gearshift
housing to the transmission case (Fig. 31). With all
the levers in the neutral detent position, pull the
housing out and away from the case. (The first and
second, third and fourth shift fork may remain in engagement with the synchronizer sleeves.) Work the
forks out of the sleeves and remove from the case.
Discard the housing gasket.
Housing
or Installing
and Mainshaft
Extension
Assembly
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TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
1ST
AND
SLEEVE
2ND
SECOND
GEAR
SPEED
(35
TEETH)
GEAR
EXTENSION
TEETH)
CLUTCH
/
1ST
AND
2ND
SLEEVE
TEETH)
T
GEAR
SHIFT
PLATES
1ST
(3)
SPEED
GEAR
HOUSING
SPEED
(34
MAINSHAF
1ST
CLUTCH
(34
GEAR
21-19
CLUTCH
GEAR
^
2ND
SPEED
GEAR
SNAP
RING
STOP
'^^>>
RING
1ST
AND
3RD A N D 4TH
CLUTCH SLEEVE
2ND
CLUTCH
j
SYNCHRONIZER
EXTENSION
3RD SPEED
GEAR
(29
Fig. 3 3 — M a i n s h a f t Gear
Identification
CAUTION: Make sure the shafts are free of burrs
before removal; otherwise, the bores may be scored
resulting in leakage after reassembly.
(3) Carefully push the gearshift lever shafts out of
the housing, allowing the detent balls to fall free. Remove the seals and discard.
(4) Slide the gearshift interlock sleeve, interlock
pin and spring out of the housing.
Extension Housing
and
Mainshaft
(1) Remove the bolts that attach the extension
housing to the transmission case.
(2) Slide the third and fourth synchronizer sleeve
slightly forward, then using a soft hammer, tap on
the extension housing (in a rearward direction). Slide
the housing and mainshaft assembly out and away
from the case, (Fig. 32).
(3) Refer to Fig. 33 for location of the various
gears, synchronizer sleeves and clutches before disassembling the mainshaft.
AND
4TH
SPEED
SYNCHRONIZER
CLUTCH
RING,
HOUSING
64x742
TEETH)
Fig. 3 5 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
Snap
3RD
SNAP
GEAR
Center
Bearing
Ring—Front
(4) Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the
snap ring (Fig. 34), that retains the 3rd and 4th synchronizer clutch gear and sleeve, slide 3rd and 4th
synchronizer assembly off the end of the mainshaft.
(5) Slide the 3rd speed gear and stop ring off the
mainshaft. (Do not separate the 3rd and 4th speed
synchronizer clutch gear, sleeve, shift plates or
springs unless inspection reveals a replacement part
is required.)
(6) Using a suitable pair of long nose pliers, compress the snap ring that retains the mainshaft center
bearing in the extension housing, (Fig. 35).
(7) Holding the snap ring compressed, pull the
mainshaft assembly and bearing out of the extension
housing, (Fig. 36). Remove the rear oil seal from the
extension housing.
(8) Remove the snap ring that retains the mainshaft bearing on the shaft (Fig. 37). Remove bearing from the mainshaft by inserting steel plates on
the front side of the 1st speed gear, then using a
SNAP
GEAR
RING
GROOVE
MAINSHAFT
64x745
Fig. 34—Disassembling
Mainshaft
EXTENSION
Fig. 36—Removing
HOUSING
or Installing
Mainshaft
I
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TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL-
21-20
SNAP
SNAP
RING
RING
GROOVE
GROOVE
PLIERS
SEARING
SNAP
RING
SNAP
RING
64
x 748
GROOVE
BEARING
RETAINiNG
R.NG
Fig. 39—Mainshaft
Bearing
Surfaces
64x746
F i g . 37—-Removing
Bearing
or Installing
Snap
Center
Ring—Rear
press or hammer, press or drive the rear bearing off
the mainshaft. (Be careful not to damage the gear
teeth.)
(9) Remove the bearing, bearing retainer ring, 1st
speed gear, and first speed stop ring.
(10) Again using snap ring pliers, remove the snap
ring that retains the 1st and 2nd clutch sleeve gear
and clutch to the mainshaft, (Fig. 38). Slide the 1st
and 2nd clutch sleeve gear and clutch from the mainshaft. (Do not separate the clutch sleeve gear and the
clutch, unless inspection reveals a replacement part
is required.)
Fig. 39 shows the various mainshaft bearing surfaces of the gears. Inspect these surfaces for signs
of wear, scoring, or any condition that would not allow the shaft to be used at reassembly.
(11) Using a shim stock feeler gauge, measure the
end play of the countershaft gear, by inserting the
gauge between the thrust washer and the gear, (Fig.
40). This measurement should not exceed .0045 to
.028". If measurement is greater than that specified,
new thrust washers must be installed at reassembly.
*
%
^
V
K
* * '
\
\
^>
GAUGE
THRUST
WASHER
COUNTERSHAFT
64
Fig. 40—Measuring
Reverse
Gear,
Countershaft
Gear
GEAR
x
750A
End Play
Lever and Fork
Fig. 41 shows the reverse gear shift fork, the reverse sliding gear, the reverse sliding gear shaft and
the cluster gear.
(1) Using a suitable drift, drive the reverse slider
REVERSE
SLIDING
REVERSE
GEAR
REVERSE
GEAR
*
. SHAFT
SHIFTER
AND
DETENT
PLATE
SHAFT
^
LIERS
SNAP
N
FEELER
BACKUP
IT*
LIGHT
SWITCH
RING
/
STOP
RING
1ST
SPEED
GEAR
RETAINING
...
PLUG
RING
/
REVERSE
2ND
SPEED
CLUTCH
GEAR
1ST
DETENT
\
AND 2ND
CLUTCH
J
* "
SLEEVE
RETAINER
REVERSE
GEARSHIFT
GEAR
SPEED
FORK
BEARING
64x747A
REVERSE
SHIFTER
GEAR
SHAFT
64
Fig. 38—Removing
Gear
or Installing
Snap
Ring
LEVER
SPRING
x
749A
Clutch
Fig. 41—Gear,
Shaft and Lever
Identification
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TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
21-21
gear shaft (from front to rear) far enough out of the
ease to remove the reverse slider gear, (Fig. 42).
Remove the woodruff key from the shaft. Remove
the shaft from the case.
(2) Remove the reverse gearshift lever detent
spring retainer, gasket, plug and detent ball spring
from the rear of the case, (Fig. 41).
The following step need only be done if oil leakage
is visible around the reverse gearshift lever shaft.
(3) Remove any burrs from the shaft so as not to
damage the case bore, then carefully push the reverse
gearshift lever shaft inward and remove it from the
case (Fig. 43). Lift out the detent ball from the bottom
of the case. Remove the shift fork from the shaft and
detent plate.
Drive Pinion and Countershaft
Gear
F i g . 43—Removing
(1) Using countershaft arbor C-3938, and a plastic
hammer, drive the countershaft out of the case, allowing the countershaft gear to be lowered to the
bottom of the case. (This will permit the removal of
the main drive pinion.)
(2) Remove the main drive pinion bearing retainer
attaching bolts, then slide the retainer and gasket
from the main drive pinion shaft. Remove the pinion
oil seal.
(3) Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the
main drive pinion bearing outer snap ring, using a
plastic hammer, drive the main drive pinion into the
case and remove.
(4) Using snap ring pliers, remove the main drive
pinion bearing inner snap ring. Using an arbor press,
remove the bearing from the main drive pinion.
(5) Remove the snap ring and 16 bearing rollers
from the cavity in the drive pinion.
(6) Remove the countershaft gear (cluster) from
the bottom of the case, (Fig. 44).
(7) Remove the arbor and the 76 needle type bearings, thrust washers and spacer, from the center of
the countershaft gear.
or Installing
Fork and
or Installing
Gear
Reverse
Slider
Shift
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the transmission case thoroughly, using a
suitable solvent, dry with compressed air. Inspect the
case for cracks, stripped threads in the various bolt
holes and the machined mating surfaces for burrs,
nicks or any condition that would render the case unfit for further service. The front mating surface
should be smooth; if any burrs are present, dress
them off with a fine mill file. If threads are stripped,
install Helicoil inserts.
Ball
Bearings
Wash the ball bearing, using a clean solvent and
blow dry with compressed air.
CAUTION: Do not spin the bearings with air pressure; turn slowly by hand. Spinning unlubricated
bearings may cause damage to the races and the
balls.
'
Fig. 42—Removing
Reverse
Lever
Fig. 44—Removing
Gear
•;-
or Installing
and
x "53A
Countershaft
Arbor
MyMopar.com
21-22
TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
Be sure the ball bearings are clean, then lubricate
them with light grade engine oil. Inspect the bearings
for roughness. This can best be determined by slowly
turning the outer race by hand. Measure the fit of the
bearings on their respective shafts.
Needle
Type Bearing
Rollers and
COUNTER SHAFT
GEAR
THRUST W A S H E R
TANG
Spacers
Inspect all bearing rollers for flat spots or brinelling. Inspect all bearing roller spacers for signs of
wear or galling. Install new parts as required.
l
ARBOR " -V\t
Gears
Inspect the gear teeth on the synchronizer clutch
gears and stop rings. If there is evidence of chipping
or excessively worn teeth, install new parts at reassembly. Be sure the clutch sleeve slides easily on the
clutch gear. Inspect the countershaft gear and all sliding gear teeth for chipped or broken teeth, or showing signs of excessive wear. Small nicks or burrs must
be stoned off.
Inspect the teeth on the main drive pinion. If excessively worn, broken or chipped, a new pinion
should be installed.
Test the interlock sleeve and pin for free movement in the bore of the shift housing. Examine the
detent balls for signs of brinelling. If the lever detents show signs of excessive wear to the extent of
not locking in gear, install a new part. Inspect the
shift forks for wear on the shanks and pads.
Synchronizer
Stop
Rings
Inspect the stop rings for cracks at the corners of
the shift plate indexing slots. If the rings are cracked
or show signs of extreme wear on the threaded bore,
install new rings at reassembly.
STHRUST WASHER
TANG
,
6
Fig. 4 5 — C o u n t e r s h a f t Gear
and Arbor
A
4
x
7
5
4
Assembly
(3) If the countershaft gear end play exceeded
.028" when measured during disassembly of "Extension Housing and Mainshaft/' Step 11, install new
thrust washers. Coat thrustwashers with heavy grease
and install them over the arbor with the tang side toward the case boss, (Fig. 45).
(4) Install the countershaft gear assembly into the
case, (Fig. 44). Allow the gear assembly to rest on the
bottom of the case. (Be sure the thrustwashers stay in
position.)
(5) Slide the bearing oil slinger over the main drive
pinion shaft, then press the main drive pinion bearing on the pinion shaft. Be sure the outer snap ring
groove is toward the front (Fig. 46). Seat the bearing
fully against the shoulder on the gear.
(6) Install a new inner snap ring into the groove
Mainshaft
Inspect the mainshaft gear and bearing mating surfaces. If the gear contact surfaces show signs of galling or excessively worn, a new mainshaft should be
installed.
Inspect the snap ring grooves for burred edges. If
rough or burred, remove the condition using a fine file
or crocus cloth. Inspect the synchronizer clutch gear
teeth on the shaft for burrs.
BEARING
S N A P R I N G (OUTER)
T O W A R D THE FRONT
M A I N DRIVE
PINION
SNAP
RING
ASSEMBLY
Countershaft
Gear
4^
and Drive Pinion
(1) Using heavy grease, coat the inside of the bore
of the gear at each end, then install the roller bearing
spacer; centered. Insert arbor Tool C-3938, into the
gear and through the spacer. Center the arbor.
(2) Coat the needle type roller bearings with heavy
grease, then at each end of the gear, install 19 rollers, followed by a spacer ring and 19 more roller
bearings and 1 spacer ring, (Fig. 30).
7 $ $ , / ' *
7
' X ,
ROLLER BEARINGS ( 1 6 ) "
6 4 x 755
Fig. 46—Main
Drive
Pinion
and Bearing
Assembly
MyMopar.com
TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
to retain the bearing. Be sure the snap ring is seated.
(7) Place the pinion shaft in a vise (with soft jaws),
then install 16 bearing rollers in the cavity of the
shaft. Coat the bearing rollers with heavy grease, then
install the bearing retaining snap ring in its groove.
(8) Install the main drive pinion and bearing in
the case and into position in the front bore. Tap lightly into place, using a plastic hammer. Install the outer
snap ring in the bearing groove.
(9) Using Tool C-3789, install a new oil seal in the
retainer bore. Install the main drive pinion bearing
retainer and gasket. Install the attaching bolts and
tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(10) Start the countershaft in its bore at the rear
of the case. Raise the countershaft gear until the
teeth mesh with the main drive pinion gear. (Be sure
the thrust washers remain in position on the ends of
the arbor and the tangs aligned with the slots in the
case.)
(11) Align the countershaft arbor with the bores in
the case, then drive or press the countershaft into the
gear. Install the woodruff key. Continue to press the
shaft into the case until the end of the shaft is flush
with the rear face of the case. Remove arbor Tool
C-3938.
Reverse Gear,
Lever and Fork
The following step need only be done if the reverse
shaft was removed because of an oil leak.
(1) Install a new oil seal on the reverse gearshift
lever shaft. Coat the lever shaft with multi-purpose
grease, then carefully install the lever shaft into bore
in the case, (Fig. 43). Install the reverse fork in the
lever. Fill the recess next to the shaft with multipurpose grease, then install the operating lever, (Fig.
29). Install a flatwasher, lockwasher and nut. Tighten nut securely.
(2) Install the reverse shift detent ball and spring.
Install the reverse detent ball spring retainer gasket
and retainer. Tighten securely.
(3) Position the reverse slider gearshaft in position in the end of the case, and drive in far enough
to position the reverse slider gear on the protruding
end of the shaft with the shift slot toward the rear,
(Fig. 42). At the same time, engage the slot with the
reverse shift fork.
(4) With the reverse slider gear correctly positioned, drive the reverse gear into the case far enough
to be able to install the woodruff key. Drive the shaft
into position, flush with the end of the case (Fig. 42).
(5) Install the back-up light switch and gasket (if
so equipped), and tighten securely.
Extension
Housing
and
Mainshaft
(1) Slide the second speed gear over the mainshaft
(synchronizer cone toward the rear) and down into
position against the shoulder on the shaft, (Fig. 38).
21-23
(2) Slide the first and second clutch sleeve gear assembly including 2nd gear stop ring) over the mainshaft (with the shift fork slot toward the front) and
down into position against the second speed gear.
(Be sure the stop ring is indexed with the shift plates.)
Install a new snap ring to secure (Fig. 38).
(3) Slide the low gear stop ring over the shaft and
down into position and index with the shift plates.
(4) Slide the first speed gear (synchronizer cone
toward the clutch sleeve gear just installed) over the
mainshaft and down into position against the clutch
sleeve gear.
(5) Install the mainshaft bearing retaining ring,
followed by the mainshaft center bearing. Using an
arbor and a suitable tool, drive or press the bearing
down into position. Install a new snap ring to secure
(Fig. 37).
(6) Slide the rear bearing over the mainshaft and
drive or press into position.
(7) Install the partially assembled mainshaft into
the extension housing far enough to engage the retaining ring in the slot in the extension housing (Fig.
36). Compress the retaining ring and at the same time
seat the mainshaft in the extension housing (Fig. 35).
(Be sure retaining ring is seated all around its slot.)
(8) Slide the third speed gear over the mainshaft
(with the synchronizer cone toward the front) followed by the third gear stop ring.
(9) Install the third and fourth speed synchronizer
clutch gear assembly (including sleeve, shift plates
and springs) on the mainshaft (shift fork slot toward
the rear) down against the third speed gear. Be sure
and index the rear stop ring with the clutch gear shift
plates (Fig. 34).
(10) Install the retaining snap ring (Fig. 34), then,
using heavy grease, position the front stop ring over
the clutch gear, again indexing the ring slots with the
shift plates (Fig. 34).
CAUTION: It is very important that the indexing
of all stop rings and the positioning of the gears
and clutches on the mainshaft be correct, or the
mating of the extension housing to the case will
not be possible without damage.
(11) Coat a new extension housing to case gasket
with grease (both sides) then place in position on the
case.
(12) Center the reverse slider gear on its shaft and
move the 3rd and 4th speed clutch sleeve slightly toward the front, then carefully insert the mainshaft
into the case, (Fig. 32). Be sure the 3rd and 4th speed
stop ring is indexed with the shifter plates, and at
the same time align and push in on the extension
housing to bottom it against the gasket and case.
Rotate the extension housing back into place, align
gasket if necessary, install extension housing attaching bolts and tighten securely.
MyMopar.com
21-24
Gearshift
TRANSMISSION—4-SPEED MANUAL
Homing
and
Mechanism,
The following 4 steps need only be done if the
gearshift housing was disassembled previously because of leaking seals.
(1) Slide the interlock sleeve into position in the
housing, (Fig. 31). Install a new oil seal on each gear
shifter shaft. Coat one of the shafts with multi-purpose grease, then install the operating lever, (Fig.
29). Install a flatwasher, lockwasher and nut. Tighten
nut securely.
(2) Place a detent ball in the sleeve, followed by
the spring and interlock pin. Coat the other gear shifter shaft with multi-purpose grease and start the shaft
into the housing. Place remaining detent ball on the
spring and compress ball and spring with a small
screwdriver, then push shaft in until seated. Fill the
recess next to the shaft with multi-purpose grease,
then install the operating lever, flatwasher, lockwasher and nut. Tighten nut securely. Install the gearshift
forks in the gear shifter shafts and position forks
and shifter shafts in neutral position, (Fig. 31).
(3) Position the 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th clutch
sleeve gears in the neutral position, then using a
new gasket install the shift housing making sure the
shift forks align with grooves in the clutch sleeve
gears.
(4) With shift housing in place, install the retaining bolts finger tight, then shift transmission into reverse. Tighten the two end center alignment bolts
first, then tighten the other retaining bolts. Test by
shifting in and out of reverse several times making
sure no interference occurs when shifting into reverse.
(5) Install the gearshift control assembly and connect the shift rods, (Fig. 28).
(6) Install the propeller shaft flange on end of the
mainshaft. Install washer and nut, and tighten to 175
foot-pounds torque.
Installation
Place a small amount of short fibre wheel bearing
lubricant around the inner end of the main drive pinion shaft pilot bushing in the flywheel and on the pinion bearing retainer release bearing sleeve area.
NOTE: Do not lubricate the end of the pinion shaft,
the clutch disc splines or the clutch release levers.
(1) Remove transmission from the repair stand.
Shift the transmission into reverse, then slide the assembly under the vehicle.
(2) With the shift lever side downward and using
a suitable jack, raise the transmission until the drive
pinion shaft is centered in the clutch housing bore.
(3) Roll the transmission slowly forward until the
pinion shaft enters the clutch disc. Turn the pinion
shaft until the splines are aligned, then work the
transmission forward until seated against the clutch
housing.
NOTE: Do not allow the transmission to "hang"
after the pinion shaft has entered the clutch disc.
(4) Rotate the transmission into position, install attaching bolts and tighten to 50 foot-pounds torque.
(5) Install the center crossmember and the four
long bolts, position the isolator assemblies over the
bolts, install and tighten the retaining nuts to 50
foot-pounds torque. Make sure the extension housing
insulator and/or spring is in place, install and tighten
retaining bolts to 35 foot-pounds torque.
(6) Remove the engine support fixture and disengage the hooks from the holes in the frame side rails.
(7) Refer to Group 2 and reinstall the torsion bars
and parts as outlined in "Torsion Bar Rubber Isolator."
(8) Install the speedometer pinion and cable. Reconnect the parking brake cable, propeller shaft, and
back-up light switch leads.
(9) Reconnect the exhaust pipes (if removed).
Tighten bolts securely.
(10) Fill the transmission with 7Vfe pints of Multipurpose Gear Oil SAE 140. If shift effort becomes extremely high during cold weather, Multi-purpose Gear
Oil SAE 80 should be used. Automatic Transmission
Fluid Type "A" Suffix "A" may also be used in extremely cold climates.
(11) Attach the gearshift lever to the stub lever on
the shift housing, tighten the two bolts securely.
Carefully slide the lower boot up over the two bolt
heads.
(12) Slide the upper boot down the shift lever and
secure in place with the screws. Install the console
trim plate.
(13) Road test the vehicle to make sure the transmission shifts smoothly and operates quietly.
(14) If the shift linkage requires adjustment, refer
to Page 15.
MyMopar.com
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
21-25
PART 2
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION ( T O R Q U E CONVERTER)
(A-727-B)
Description
The TorqueFlite Transmission model identification
markings are cast in raised letters about % inch high
on the lower left side of the transmission bell housing.
The A-727-B transmission (Fig. 1) used in the Chrysler model vehicles, has the sliding spline type output
shaft The A-727-B transmission (Fig. 2) used in the
Imperial models is the same as for the Chrysler models except that the output shaft uses the detachable
type universal joint flange.
The TorqueFlite Transmission combines a torque
converter with a fully-automatic 3-speed gear system.
The torque converter housing and transmission case
are an integral aluminum casting. The transmission
consists of two multiple disc clutches, an overrunning
clutch, two servos and bands, and two planetary gear
sets to provide three forward ratios and a reverse
ratio. The common sun gear of the planetary gear
sets is connected to the front clutch by a driving shell
which is splined to the sun gear and to the front
clutch retainer. The hydraulic system consists of a
front and rear pump, and a single valve body which
contains all of the valves except the governor valve.
Venting of the transmission is accomplished by a
drilled passage through the upper part of the front
oil pump housing.
The torque converter is attached to the crankshaft
through a flexible driving plate. Cooling of the converter is accomplished by circulating the transmission
fluid through an oil-to-water type cooler, located in
the radiator lower tank. The torque converter assembly is a sealed unit which cannot be disassembled.
The transmission fluid is filtered by an internal
"Dacron Type" filter attached to the lower side of the
valve body assembly.
Engine torque is transmitted to the torque converter then, through the input shaft to the multiple disc
clutches in the transmission. The power flow depends
on the application of the clutches and bands. Refer to
"Clutch Engagement and Band Application Chart."
The TorqueFlite Transmission servicing procedures are in general the same for all Chrysler and Imperial models. Where variations in procedures occur,
application to the Chrysler or Imperial is indicated.
However, when a 383 or 413 cubic inch (Hi-Performance) engine is used, the governor spring is lighter to
provide higher shift speeds.
The special parts are listed in the 1965 Parts Catalog; therefore, be sure they are used when replacement is necessary.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
N O T E : The transmission should not be removed nor disassembled until a careful diagnosis is made
the
definite cause determined and all possible external corrections performed. In diagnosing any abnormal shift
condition, always make the hydraulic pressure tests before disassembly or replacement of parts.
HARSH E N G A G E M E N T
Correction
Possible Cause
Condition
(a) Engine idle speed too high.
(a) Adjust the engine idle speed to 500 rpm. Read-
(b) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
(b) Inspect the fluid level, then perform hydraulic
(c) Low-reverse band out of adjustment.
(c) Adjust the low-reverse band.
(d) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(d) Perform pressure tests to determine cause a n d
(e) Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
(e) Inspect the accumulator for sticking, broken
(f)
(f)
just throttle linkage.
IN D, 1,2 A N D R
pressure tests and adjust to specifications.
correct as required.
rings or spring. Repair as required.
Low-reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction,
Inspect the servo for damaged seals, binding
linkage or faulty band lining. Repair as required.
(g) Worn or faulty front a n d / o r rear clutch.
(g) Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or replace as required.
MyMopar.com
21-26
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
Condition
DELAYED E N G A G E -
Possible Cause
Correction
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to correct level with Automatic Transmis-
(b) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(b) Adjust the control cable.
(c) Oil filter clogged.
(c) Replace the oil filter.
(d) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
(d) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(e) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(e) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
(f)
(f)
sion Fluid, Type A, Suffix A .
MENT IN D, 1, 2 A N D R
to specifications.
correct as required.
Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
Inspect the accumulator for sticking, broken
rings or spring. Repair as required.
(g) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
(g) Remove the valve body assembly a n d perform
(h) Faulty front pump.
(h) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests. Adjust or
(i)
(i)
air pressure tests. Repair as required.
repair as required.
Worn or faulty front a n d / o r rear clutch.
Disassemble a n d inspect clutch. Repair or replace as required.
(j)
Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r reaction
(j)
Inspect and replace seal rings as required, also
inspect respective bores for wear. Replace the
shaft support seal rings.
parts as required.
(k) Aerated fluid.
(k) Inspect for air leakage into the front pump suc-
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to correct level with Automatic Transmis-
(a) Incorrect throttle linkage adjustment.
(b) Adjust the throttle linkage.
(c) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
(c) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(d) Kickdown band out of adjustment.
(d) Adjust the kickdown band.
(e) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(e) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(f)
(f)
tion passages.
RUNAWAY O R HARSH
UPSHIFT A N D
KICKDOWN
3-2
sion Fluid, Type A , Suffix A .
to specifications.
correct as required.
Governor malfunction.
Inspect the governor and repair a s required.
(g) Inspect the accumulator for sticking, broken
(g) Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
rings or spring. Repair as required.
(h) Remove the valve body assembly and perform
(h) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
the air pressure tests. Repair as required.
(i)
(i)
Kickdown servo, band or linkage malfunction.
(j)
Worn or faulty front clutch.
Inspect the servo for sticking, broken seal rings,
binding linkage or faulty band lining. Repair
as required.
(j)
Disassemble and inspect the clutch. Repair or
replace as required,
(k) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r reaction
(k) Inspect and replace seal rings as required, also
shaft support seal rings.
inspect the respective bores for wear. Replace
parts as required.
N O UPSHIFT
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to correct level with Automatic Transmis-
(b) Incorrect throttle linkage adjustment.
(b) Adjust the throttle linkage.
(c) Kickdown band out of adjustment.
(c) Adjust the kickdown band.
(d) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
(d) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(e) Governor sticking.
(e) Remove and clean the governor. Replace parts
(f)
(f)
sion Fluid Type " A , " Suffix " A . "
to specifications.
if necessary.
Valve body malfunction or leakage.
Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
correct as required.
(g) Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
(g) Inspect accumulator for sticking, broken rings
(h) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
(h) Remove the valve body assembly and perform
or spring. Repair as required.
the air pressure tests. Repair as required.
MyMopar.com
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
Condition
N O UPSHIFT
Possible Cause
21-27
Correction
(I)
Faulty rear oil pump,
(i)
(j)
Kickdown servo, band or linkage malfunction.
(j)
Continued
Perform the hydraulic pressure tests, adjust or
repair as required,
Inspect the servo for sticking, broken seal rings,
binding linkage or faulty band lining. Repair as
required.
(k) Worn or faulty front clutch.
(k) Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or replace as required.
(I) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r
reaction
(I)
shaft support seal rings.
Inspect and replace the seal rings as required,
also inspect the respective bores for wear. Replace parts as required.
N O K I C K D O W N OR
(a) Incorrect throttle linkage adjustment.
(a) Adjust the throttle linkage.
NORMAL DOWNSHIFT
(b) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(b) Adjust the control cable.
(c) Kickdown band out of adjustment.
(c) Adjust the kickdown band.
(d) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(d) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
to specifications.
(e) Remove and clean the governor. Replace parts
(e) Governor sticking.
if necessary.
(f) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
(f)
Valve body malfunction or leakage.
correct as required.
(g) Inspect the accumulator for sticking, broken
(g) Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
rings or spring. Repair as required.
(h) Remove the valve body assembly a n d perform
(h) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
the air pressure tests. Repair as required.
(i)
(i)
Kickdown servo, band or linkage malfunction.
(j)
Overrunning clutch not holding.
Inspect the servo for sticking, broken seal rings,
binding linkage or faulty band lining. Repair
as required.
(j)
Disassemble the transmission and repair
the
overrunning clutch as required.
SHIFTS ERRATIC
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(b) Aerated
(b) Inspect for air leakage into the front pump
mission Fluid, Type A , Suffix A .
fluid.
suction passages.
(c) Incorrect throttle linkage adjustment.
(c) Adjust the throttle linkage.
(d) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(d) Adjust the control cable.
(e) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(e) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
to specifications.
(f)
(f) Governor sticking.
Remove and clean the governor. Replace parts
if necessary.
(g) Replace the oil filter.
(g) Oil filter clogged.
(h) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
correct as required.
(h) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(i)
Remove the valve body assembly and perform
air pressure tests. Repair as required.
(i) Clutches o- servos sticking or not operating.
(j)
Perform the hydraulic pressure tests, adjust or
repair as required,
(j)
Faulty rear a n d / o r front oil pump.
(k) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r
shaft support seal rings.
SLIPS IN FORWARD
DRIVE POSITIONS
the parts as required.
mission Fluid, Type A , Suffix A.
(b) Inspect for air leakage into the front pump
fluid.
(c) Incorrect throttle linkage
also inspect respective bores for wear. Replace
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(a) Low fluid level.
(b) Aerated
(k) Inspect and replace the seal rings as required,
reaction
suction passages.
adjustment.
(d) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(e) Hydraulic pressures too low.
(c) Adjust the throttle linkage.
(d) Adjust the control cable.
(e) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
to specifications.
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21-28
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)Condition
SLIPS IN FORWARD
Possible Cause
(f)
Correction
Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(f) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
DRIVE POSITIONS
Continued
correct as required.
(g) Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
(g) Inspect the accumulator for sticking, broken
(h) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
(h) Remove the valve body assembly perform air
(i)
(i)
rings or spring. Repair as required.
pressure tests. Repair as required.
Worn or faulty a n d / o r rear clutch.
Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or replace as required.
(j)
Overrunning clutch not holding.
(j)
Disassemble the transmission and repair
the
overrunning clutch as required.
(k) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r
reaction
(k) Inspect and replace the seal rings as required,
shaft support seal rings.
also inspect the respective bores for wear. Replace parts as required.
SLIPS IN REVERSE O N L Y
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to correct level with Automatic Transmis-
(b) Aerated
(b) Inspect for air leakage into front pump suction
sion Fluid, Type A, Suffix A .
fluid.
passages.
(c) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(c) Adjust the control cable.
(d) Hydraulic pressures too high or low.
(d) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(e) Low-reverse band out of adjustment.
(e) Adjust the low-reverse band.
(f)
(f)
to specifications.
Valve body malfunction or leakage.
Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
correct as required.
(g) Front clutch or rear servo, sticking or not operat-
(g) Remove the valve body assembly and perform
ing.
air pressure tests. Repair as required.
(h) Low-reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction.
(h) Inspect the servo for damaged seals, binding
linkage or faulty band lining. Repair as required.
(i)
(i)
Faulty front oil pump.
Perform the hydraulic pressure tests, adjust or
repair as required.
SLIPS IN ALL POSITIONS
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(b) Hydraulic pressures too low.
(b) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(c) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(c) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
(d) Faulty front oil pump.
(d) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests, adjust or
(e) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
(e) Remove the valve body assembly and perform
(f) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r
(f) Inspect and replace the seal rings as required,
mission Fluid, Type A , Suffix A.
to specifications.
correct as required.
repair as required.
air pressure tests. Repair as required.
reaction
shaft support seal rings.
also inspect respective bores for wear. Replace
the parts as required.
N O DRIVE IN A N Y
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(b) Hydraulic pressures too low.
(b) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and a d -
(c) Oil filter clogged.
(c) Replace the oil filter.
POSITION
mission Fluid, Type A , Suffix A.
just to specifications.
(d) Perform pressure tests to determine cause a n d
(d) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
correct as required.
(e) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests, adjust or
(e) Faulty front oil pump.
repair as required.
(f) Remove the valve body assembly and perform
(f) Clutches or servos sticking or not operating.
air pressure tests. Repair as required.
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-TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
Condition
Possible C a u s e
21-29
Correction
N O DRIVE IN FORWARD (a) Hydraulic pressures too low.
(a) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
DRIVE POSITIONS
to specifications.
(b) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
(b) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
correct as required.
(c) Inspect the accumulator for sticking, broken
(c) Accumulator sticking, broken rings or spring.
rings or spring. Repair as required.
(d) Remove the valve body assembly perform air
(d) Clutches or servos, sticking or not operating.
pressure tests. Repair as required.
(e) Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or re-
(e) Worn or faulty rear clutch.
- place as required.
(f)
(f) Overrunning clutch not holding.
(g) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r
Disassemble the transmission and repair overrunning clutch as required.
reaction
(g) Inspect and replace the seal rings «J» required,
shaft support seal rings.
also inspect the respective bores for wear. Replace parts as required.
N O DRIVE IN REVERSE
(a) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(a) Adjust the control cable.
(b) Hydraulic pressures too low.
(b) Perform the hydraulic pressure tests and adjust
(c) Low-reverse band out of adjustment.
(c) Adjust the low-reverse band.
(d) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(d) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
(e) Front clutch or rear servo, sticking or not operat-
(e) Remove the valve body assembly and perform
to specifications.
correct as required.
air pressure tests. Repair as required.
ing.
(f) Low-reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction.
(f)
Inspect the servo for damaged seals, binding
linkage or faulty band lining. Repair as required.
(g) Worn or faulty front clutch.
(g) Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or re-
(a) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(a) Adjust the control cable.
(b) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
(b) Perform pressure tests to determine cause and
(c) Rear clutch inoperative.
(c) Inspect the clutch and repair as required.
place as required.
DRIVES IN NEUTRAL
correct as required.
D R A G S OR L O C K S
(a) Kickdown band out of adjustment.
(a) Adjust the kickdown band.
(b) Low-reverse band out of adjustment.
(b) Adjust the low-reverse band.
(c) Kickdown a n d / o r low-reverse servo, band, link-
(c) Inspect the servo for sticking, broken seal rings,
age malfunction.
binding linkage or faulty band lining. Repair
as required.
(d) Front a n d / o r rear clutch faulty.
(d) Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or re-
(e) Planetary gear sets broken or seized.
(e) Inspect the condition of the planetary
place as required.
gear
sets and replace as required.
(f) Overrunning clutch worn, broken or seized.
(f)
Inspect the condition of the overrunning clutch
and replace parts as required.
G R A T I N G , S C R A P I N G OR (a) Kickdown band out of adjustment.
G R O W L I N G NOISE
(a) Adjust the kickdown band.
(b) Low-reverse band out of adjustment.
(b) Adjust the low-reverse band.
(c) Output shaft bearing damaged.
(c) Remove the extension housing and replace the
(d) Governor support binding or broken seal rings.
(d) Inspect the condition of the governor support
(e) Front a n d / o r rear oil pump scored or binding.
(e) Inspect the condition of the pump and repair as
(f) Front a n d / o r rear clutch faulty.
(f)
(g) Planetary gear sets broken or seized.
(g) Inspect the condition of the planetary gear sets
(h) Overrunning clutch worn, broken or seized.
(h) Repair overrunning clutch as required. .
bearing.
and repair as required.
required.
Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or replace as required.
and replace as required.
MyMopar.com
21-30
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION {TORQUE CONVERTER)Condition
BUZZING
NOISE
Correction
Possible Cause
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(b) Pumps sucking air.
(b) Inspect the pumps for nicks or burrs on mating
mission Fluid, Type A ,
Suffix A.
surfaces, porous casting, a n d / o r excessive rotor
clearance. Replace the parts as required.
(c) Valve body malfunction.
(c) Remove and recondition the valve body as-
(d) Overrunning clutch inner race damaged.
(d) Inspect and repair the clutch as required.
HARD T O FILL, OIL
(a) High fluid level.
(a) Drain the fluid to the correct level.
F L O W S OUT FILLER
(b) Breather clogged.
(b) Inspect and clean breather vent opening in
(c) Oil filter clogged.
(c) Replace the oil filter.
(d) Aerated fluid.
(d) Inspect for air leakage into front pump suction
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(b) Kickdown band adjustment too tight.
(b) Adjust the kickdown band.
(c) Low-reverse band adjustment too tight.
(c) Adjust the low-reverse band.
(d) Faulty cooling system.
(d) Inspect the transmission cooling system, clean
(e) Cracked or restricted oil cooler line or fitting.
(e) Inspect, repair or replace as required.
(f) Faulty rear a n d / o r front oil pump.
(f) Inspect the oil pump for incorrect clearance,
(g) Insufficient clutch plate clearance in front
(g) Measure the clutch plate clearance and correct
sembly.
front pump housing.
TUBE
passages.
TRANSMISSION
mission Fluid, Type A ,
OVERHEATS
Suffix
A.
and repair as required.
repair as required.
with the proper size snap ring.
a n d / o r rear clutches.
IMPOSSIBLE T O
(a) Low fluid level.
(a) Refill to the correct level with Automatic Trans-
(b) Low-reverse band slipping.
(b) Adjust the low-reverse band.
mission Fluid, Type A ,
PUSH START
Suffix A .
(c) Remove and recondition the valve body assem(c) Valve body malfunction or leakage.
bly.
(d) Inspect a n d repair the rear oil pump as re-
(d) Rear oil pump faulty.
quired.
(e) Inspect the servo for damaged seals, binding
(e) Low-reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction.
linkage or faulty band lining. Repair as required.
(f) Worn or faulty rear clutch.
(f) Disassemble and inspect clutch. Repair or re-
(g) Worn or broken input shaft a n d / o r reaction
(g) Inspect and replace the seal rings as required,
place as required.
also inspect respective bores for wear. Replace
shaft support seal rings.
the parts as required.
STARTER WILL N O T
(a) Incorrect control cable adjustment.
(a) Adjust the control cable.
ENERGIZE IN NEUTRAL
(b) Faulty or incorrectly adjusted neutral starting
(b) Test the operation of the switch with a test
switch.
(c) Broken lead to neutral switch.
lamp. Adjust or replace as required.
(c) Inspect the lead and test with a test lamp. Repair the broken lead.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM
The hydraulic control circuits on pages 35 through
42 show the position of the various valves with color
coded passages to indicate those under hydraulic pressure for all operations of the transmission.
The hydraulic control system makes the transmission fully automatic, and has four important functions to perform. In a general way, the components
of any automatic control system may be grouped into
the following basic groups:
The pressure supply system, the clutches and band
servos, the pressure regulating valves and the flow
control valves.
Taking each of these basic groups or systems in
turn, the control system may be described as follows:
Pressure Supply System
The pressure supply system consists of a front
pump driven by the engine through the torque converter, and a rear pump driven by the transmission
output shaft.
MyMopar.com
fig.
I—TorqueFlite
Transmission
and Torque
Converter
(Chrysler)
to
i
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CO
ONE
ENGINE
PIECE
ALUMINUM
CASE
CRANKSHAFT
NK149
Fjg. 2
TorqueFlite
Transmission a n d T o r q u e Converter
(Imperial}
MyMopar.com
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT A N D B A N D
APPLICATION
21-33
CHART
FRONT
REAR
A N D DRIVE
FRONT
REAR
(KICKDOWN)
(LOW-REV)
OVERRUNNING
CONDITION
CLUTCH
CLUTCH
BAND
BAND
CLUTCH
DISENGAGED
DISENGAGED
RELEASED
RELEASED
NO MOVEMENT
ENGAGED
ENGAGED
RELEASED
RELEASED
O V E R RUNS
DISENGAGED
ENGAGED
RELEASED
RELEASED
HOLDS
DISENGAGED
ENGAGED
APPLIED
RELEASED
O V E R RUNS
DISENGAGED
ENGAGED
APPLIED
RELEASED
OVER RUNS
DISENGAGED
ENGAGED
RELEASED
RELEASED
HOLDS
DISENGAGED
ENGAGED
RELEASED
APPLIED
PARTIAL HOLD
DISENGAGED
ENGAGED
RELEASED
APPLIED
N O MOVEMENT
ENGAGED
DISENGAGED
RELEASED
APPLIED
N O MOVEMENT
LEVER POSITION
N
NEUTRAL
D-DRIVE
(DIRECT)
1.00 to 1
D-DRIVE
(BREAKAWAY)
2.45 to 1
D-DRIVE
KICKDOWN
(TO S E C O N D )
1.45 to 1
2-SECOND
1.45 to 1
2-SECOND
KICKDOWN
(TO L O W )
2 45 to 1
1-LOW
2.45 to 1
1-LOW
(RETARDING)
2.45 to 1
R-REVERSE
2.20 to 1
Pressure Regulating
Valves
The pressure regulating valves consist of a regulator valve which controls line pressure at a value
dependent on throttle opening.
The torque converter control valve maintains
torque converter operating pressure and transmission
lubricating pressure.
The governor valve transmits regulated pressure
to the transmission (in conjunction with throttle pressure) to control upshift and downshift speeds.
The throttle valve transmits regulated pressure to
the transmission (in conjunction with governor pressure) to control upshift and downshift speeds.
Flow Control
Valves
The rear pump check valve prevents loss of front
pump pressure through the rear pump circuit during
reverse operation. The front pump check valve prevents loss of rear pump pressure through the front
pump circuit when the front pump flow is recirculating.
A check valve is incorporated in the rear oil pump
cover to prevent air from entering the system during
reverse operation.
The manual valve obtains the different transmission drive ranges as selected by the vehicle operator.
The reverse blocker valve mechanically blocks the
manual valve from moving into reverse position
above approximately 20 mph.
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21-34
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
The 1-2 shift valve automatically shifts the transmission from low to second or from second to low
depending on the vehicle operation.
The 2-3 shift valve automatically shifts the transmission from second to direct or from direct to second depending on the vehicle operation.
The kickdown valve makes possible a forced downshift from direct to second-second to breakaway or
direct to breakaway (depending on vehicle speed) by
depressing the accelerator pedal past the detent
"feel" near wide open throttle.
The shuttle valve has two separate functions and
performs each independently of each other. The first
is that of providing fast release of the kickdown band,
and smooth front clutch engagement when the driver
makes a "lift-foot" upshift from second 'to direct. The
second function of the shuttle valve is to regulate the
application of the kickdown servo and band when
making direct to second kickdowns.
Clutches,
Band Servos and
Accumulator
The front and rear clutch pistons, and both servo
pistons are moved hydraulically to engage the
clutches and apply the bands. The pistons are released by spring tension when hydraulic pressure is
released. On the 2-3 upshift, the kickdown servo piston is released by spring tension and hydraulic pressure.
The accumulator controls the hydraulic pressure on
the apply side of the kickdown servo during the 1-2
shift) thereby, cushioning the kickdown band application at any throttle position.
GEARSHIFT A N D PARKING LOCK
CONTROLS
The transmission is controlled by a "lever type"
gearshift incorporated within the steering column.
The control has six selector lever positions: P (park),
R (reverse), N (neutral), D (drive), 2 (second) and 1
(low). Some vehicles are equipped with a "lever type"
console gearshift which has the same selector lever
positions.
Mechanical connection between the gearshift control and the transmission manual control valve, and
the parking lock is obtained through two cables enclosed in weatherproof housings. The parking lock is
applied by moving the selector lever past a gate to
the P position.
CAUTION: Never apply the parking lock until the
vehicle has stopped; otherwise, a severe ratcheting
noise will occur.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
The transmission will automatically upshift and
downshift at approximately the miles per hour given
in the Shift Pattern Summary Chart.
NOTE: All shift speeds given in the "Shift Pattern
Summary Chart" may vary somewhat due to production tolerances and rear axle ratios. This is not
too important; however, the quality of the shifts is
very important. All shifts should be smooth, responsive, and with no noticeable engine runaway.
Starting
the Engine
The engine will start with the selector lever in
either the P (park) or N (neutral) positions.
(1) As a safety precaution when starting in the N
(neutral) position, apply the parking or foot brake.
(2) Depress the accelerator pedal one-third of travel
to insure proper choke operation.
(3) Turn the ignition key all the way to the right
to START position. When the engine starts, release
the key and it will return to the ON position.
Push
Starting
If the engine fails to start in the normal manner,
it may be started by pushing. Towing the vehicle to
start is not recommended due to the sudden surge of
power when the engine starts.
Turn the ignition on, then move the selector lever
to the low position and depress the accelerator pedal
slightly. After the vehicle has been pushed to a speed
of 15 to 25 mph, the transmission will drive the engine.
SHIFT PATTERN SUMMARY CHART
CAR SPEED T O AXLE RATIOS
Condition
AC-1
AC-2
AC-3
AY-1
2.76:1
3.23:1
3.23:1
2.93:1
Closed Throttle
1-2 Upshift
8-14
7-12
7-12
8-14
Closed Throttle
2-3 Upshift
13-19
11-16
11 16
13-19
Wide O p e n Throttle 1 -2 Upshift
31-45
27-39
27-39
32-45
Wide Open Throttle 2-3 Upshift
69-81
60-71
60-71
69-82
3-2 Kickdown Limit
59-72
51-63
51-63
59-73
30-39
26-34
26-34
30-39
5-13
4-11
4-11
5-13
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-TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
TO
LUB.
21-35
CONTROL SYSTEM I N
NEUTRAL
ENGINE
RUNNING
62x230C
OIL FILTER
Neutral
Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
21-36
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE
CONVERTER)-
SERVO
KD
o
o
REAR
FRONT
o o
CLUTCH
7\ .
LOW
r~
=k l
& REV. S E R V O
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2-3
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CLUTCH
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SHUTTLE V A .
SHIFT V A .
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X
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1
1-2
1 1
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T
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SHIFT V A .
fo o o o o q
ACCUMULATOR
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THROTTLE V A .
f'56
FRONT
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T.C.
5
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OOP
v
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KICKDOWN VA.
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•
*
MANUAL VA.
CLUTCH
LUB.
C
CONTROL
VA.
OIL
PRESSURES
LINE
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C O O L E R
fe^
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9
r
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fo o o o o
T O LUB.
FRONT
PUMP
D
ooo
ooo
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75 psi
PUMP SUCTION
THROTTLE
. 4 0 psi
GOVERNOR
0-75 psi
CONVERTER
3 0 - 7 5 psi
LUBRICATION
5-30 psi
CONTROL SYSTEM I N
o o or.
o o ol_REAR
PUMP
BREAKAWAY
HALF THROTTLE
62x231 C
OIL
FILTER
Drive-Breakaway
Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
•TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
SERVO
KD
fF3
REAR
o
o
o
CLUTCH
2
V £ L
"
E:
o o
a
21-37
FRONT
CLUTCH
Z7~
LOW
& REV. S E R V O
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2
r^i
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2-3
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ipooo
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r
SHUTTLE
SHIFT V A .
CTLJ'LJ
VA.
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X
HHHH
0
0
1-2
SHIFT
r=j
VA
5 o o
6
L
ACCUMULATOR
^
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THROTTLE V A .
L-
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(
KICKDOWN
VA.
o o o o o o
TORQUE
CONVERTER
jVp^
MANUAL
FRONT CLUTCH
LUB.
VA.
\f1
K
.C
— ^
U3L
CONTROL V A . J
OIL
PRESSURES
LINE
COOLER
75 psi
PUMP SUCTION
EE
GOV.
VA
o o o o o c
T O LUB.
THROTTLE
4 0 psi
GOVERNOR
. . 6 - 7 5 psi
CONVERTER
30-75 psi
LUBRICATION
5-30 psi
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
REAR
PUMP
DRIVE
(SECOND)
HALF THROTTLE
62x232C
OIL
FILTER
D r / v e - S e c o n d Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
21-38
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
D r i v e — D i r e c t Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
KD
REAR
21-39
SERVO
FRONT CLUTCH
o o
CLUTCH
(TORQUE CONVERTER)
o
o
U=laJ
L O W & REV. S E R V O
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SHUTTLE V A .
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DC
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,1 1-2 SHIFT V A .
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ACCUMULATOR
\i
HROTTLE V A . Y
I
J k-jj^^k^ST
I-
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FRONT CLUTCH
JNY^
LUB.
T.C.
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L
re hri
KICKDOWN
,
VA.
I
I
MANUAL VA.
YT1
C O N T R O L VA.
OIL PRESSURES
LINE
4
COOLER
fe^
9 0 psi
PUMP SUCTION
THROTTLE
60-65 psi
CONVERTER
. 3 0 - 7 5 psi
LUBRICATION
TO LUB.
. 9 0 psi
GOVERNOR
5-30 psi
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
REAR
P U M P
DRIVE fKICKDOWN)
AT 50 M.P.H.
62x234C
OIL FILTER
Drive-Kickdown
Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
21-40
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)SERVO
KD
<7=S
FRONT
REAR CLUTCH
1
LOW
2
AA
2-3
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T
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& REV. S E R V O
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SHUTTLE V A .
SHIFT V A .
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10
1-2
CLUTCH
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SHIFT V A .
TJ-LriJr
ACCUMULATOR
(
THROTTLE V A . II
(f
KICKDOWN V A .
\
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JT L- r u L /
FRONT CLUTCH
LUB.
LJ-LJ—^Lr
MANUAL V A .
OIL
^
COOLER
j^/
PRESSURES
LINE
..55
psi
PUMP SUCTION
GOV. VA.
DO O O O
GOVERNOR
6-55 psi
CONVERTER
30-75 psi
|
|
5-30 psi
|
|
LUBRICATION
jOOO
T O LUB.
o o oor
o o ol
FRONT
PUMP
CONTROL SYSTEM IN
REAR
PUMP
MANUAL SECOND
CLOSED THROTTLE
62x235C
OIL FILTER
Selector
Lever
Second-Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
-TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
KD
fr=3
SERVO
o
o
REAR
oo
CLUTCH
21-41
o
"0
o
FRONT
o
CLUTCH
r
LOW
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2-3
& REV. S E R V O
3,
D O O O O
JZL
SHUTTLE V A .
SHIFT V A .
Li
D O O O O
X
o"
X
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po o o o o
1
TZT
v
r.HIFT V A .
1"
6o
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o o o o
31
iL
(
1
THROTTLE V A .
k
\
)
ACCUMULATOR
(
KICKDOWN VA.
p o oo o o o o o o o <
OIL PRESSURES
^
COOLER
LINE
|p
55 psi
PUMP SUCTION
GOVERNOR
. . 0 - 3 0 psi
CONVERTER
30-75 psi
LUBRICATION
T O LUB.
. . . . . . . 5-30 psi
CONTROL SYSTEM I N
MANUAL LOW
CLOSED
THROTTLE
62x236C
O I L FILTER
Selector
Lever
Low-Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
21-42
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION
(TORQUE CONVERTER)-
KD
SERVO
fF3
o
REAR
CLUTCH
o o
r
3)
FRONT
CLUTCH
T
LOW
& REV. S E R V O
HE
3,
1
A
o o o o
2-3
SHIFT V A
p o o
I
in
SHUTTLE V A .
o
X
^
n
t
m
1
1
r ^.^
*—• V A ^ |
1-2— ISHIFT
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JT
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1-w
i
lo o o o o
o o o o
31
<0
THROTTLE
'
I
V
4
VA.
)
b o cTo
OOP
ACCUMULATOR
^
KICKDOWN V A .
o oo o o o
I-
1
T.C. CONTROL V A . J
OIL
COOLER
PRESSURES
j^y
LINE . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 0 - 2 6 0 psi
PUMP SUCTION
CONVERTER
. . 3 0 - 7 5 psi
LUBRICATION
TO
5-30 psi
CONTROL SYSTEM I N
LUB.
REYEftSE
62x237C
OIL FILTER
Reverse
Hydraulic
Circuits
MyMopar.com
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
Driving
Mountain
When driving in the mountains with either heavy
loads or when pulling trailers, the 2 (second) or 1
(low) position should be selected on upgrades which
requires heavy throttle for Vi mile or more. Lower
ratios reduces the possibility of overheating the transmission and converter under these conditions. 1 (low)
position is for severe operation or to obtain better
control.
Towing
21-43
mission case and valve body can be repaired by the
use of Heli-Coils. Essentially, this repair consists of
drilling out the worn or damaged threads, tapping
the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, and installing a
Heli-Coil Insert into the tapped hole. This brings the
hole back to its original thread size.
The following chart lists the threaded hole sizes
which are used in the aluminum case and valve body,
and the necessary tools and inserts for the repair of
damaged or worn threads. Heli-Coil tools and inserts
are readily available from most automotive parts jobbers.
Vehicle
Transmission Inoperative: Tow the vehicle with a
rear end pickup or remove the propeller shaft.
Transmission Operating Properly: The vehicle may
be towed safely in N (neutral) at moderate speeds.
For long distance towing (over 100 miles), the propeller shaft should be removed.
Some thread drag may occur in screwing a bolt
into the installed Heli-Coil insert. Therefore, a
torque reading should be taken of the thread drag
with an inch-pound torque wrench and added to the
specified bolt torque, so that all bolts securing a
particular part will be tightened to the same torque.
ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum trans-
HELI-COIL
INSERTING
EXTRACT-
DRILL
TAP
TOOL
ING TOOL
Part
Part
Part
Size
No.
No.
No.
Thread
Part
Insert
Size
No.
Length
10-24
1185-3
.285"
1 3
/ "(.203")
3CPB
528-3N
1227-6
VA-20
1185-4
%"
1 7
/ "(.265")
4CPB
528-4N
1227-6
/ 2"
3
Q (.332")
5CPB
528-5N
1227-6
/ "
X (.397")
6CPB
528-6N
1227-6
/
7CPB
528-7N
1227-16
5
1185-5
%-16
1185-6
9
/ -14
1185-7
2 1
1 6
7
,5
/ -18
1 6
6 4
6 4
1 6
/
3 2
"
2 9
3 2
(.453")
TORQUEFLITE A-727-B TRANSMISSION
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Various transmission components can be removed
for repairs without removing the transmission from
vehicle. The removal, reconditioning and installation
procedures for these components are covered here,
except valve body reconditioning, which is described
on Page 69.
NOTE: The A-727-B transmission (Chrysler models)
has the sliding spline type output shaft. Whenever
the propeller shaft front sliding yoke is removed
from the transmission, it should be cleaned and relubricated as outlined in Group "O" of this Manual.
Heli-coil inserts are recommended for repairing
damaged, stripped or worn threads in aluminum parts.
LUBRICATION
The transmission fluid and the oil filter should provide satisfactory lubrication and protection to the
automatic transmission and no change is recommended in vehicles used in normal service. Regularly scheduled oil and filter changes, therefore will not
be required in these vehicles, except when the operation of the vehicle is classified as severe.
If the regular operation of the vehicle is classified
as severe, the transmission should be adjusted and
the fluid and the oil filter changed approximately every 32,000 miles, according to any of the following:
Police or taxicab operation
Frequent towing of trailers
Continuous operation at higher than normal loading and/or temperature.
The transmission should not be idled in gear for
long periods.
Fluid
Level
Inspect the fluid level every 6 months (more often
MyMopar.com
21-44
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION {TORQUE CONVERTER}
vere operating conditions.
(1) Adjust the kickdown band. Refer to Page 52.
(2) Adjust the gearshift control cable. Refer to Page
50.
(3) Adjust the engine idle in neutral. Refer to the
Fuel System, Group 14.
(4) Adjust the transmission and carburetor throttle linkage to obtain the proper shift pattern. Refer
to Page 52.
STEERING COLUMN AND GEARSHIFT
Fig. 3—Converter
Drain
Plug
Removal
if conditions warrant) with the engine and transmission at normal operating temperature. Refer to "Lubrication and Maintenance/' Group 0.
Drain and Refill
(1) Eaise the vehicle on a hoist. Place a drain container with a large opening, under the transmission
oil pan.
(2) Loosen the pan bolts, tap the pan to break it
loose allowing the fluid to drain, then remove the oil
pan.
(3) Remove the access plate from in front of the
converter, remove the drain plug allowing the fluid to
drain (Fig. 3). Install and tighten the converter drain
plug to 14 inch-pounds torque, and install the access
plate.
(4) If necessary, adjust the reverse band. Refer to
Page 52.
(5) Install a new oil filter on the bottom on the
valve body. Be sure to use a new gasket and tighten
the filter retaining screws to 28 inch-pounds torque.
(6) Clean the oil pan, and reinstall using a new
gasket. Tighten the oil pan bolts to 150 inch-pounds
torque.
(7) Pour eight quarts of Automatic Transmission
Fluid, Type "A" Suffix "A" into the transmission.
(8) Start the engine and allow to idle for at least
two minutes. With the parking brake on, move the
selector lever momentarily to each position ending
in the neutral position.
(9) Add sufficient fluid to bring fluid level to the
"ADD ONE PINT" mark. (Approximately 2 quarts.)
(10) Recheck the fluid level after the transmission
is at normal operating temperature. The level should
be between the "FULL" mark and the "ADD ONE
PINT" mark (Fig. 4).
(1) Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from
the battery.
(2) Disconnect the gearshift control cable and parking lock cable from the transmission. Refer to Page
50.
(3) Chrysler Models: Remove the steering shaft
coupling to worm shaft lock bolt. Remove the heat
shield from the lower end of the steering column.
Imperial Models: Remove the upper clamp bolt or
roll pin from the steering shaft coupling.
(4) Disconnect the turn signal, horn and back-up
lamp wires from the column.
(5) Chrysler Models: Compress and turn the horn
button Vk turn counter-clockwise to remove the horn
button. Disconnect the horn wire at the switch.
Remove horn switch to steering wheel retaining
screws and insulators, then remove the horn ring and
switch.
Imperial Models: Remove two screws from underside of the steering wheel, lift up the wheel cover
and disconnect the ground wire and two horn switch
wires.
(6) Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and
washer. Remove the steering wheel, using Puller
C-3428A. Remove the turn signal lever.
CAUTION: To prevent dirt from entering the transmission, make certain that the dip stick cap is
fully seated onto the filler tube.
Periodic
Adjustments
The following adjustments should be performed
at 32,000 mile intervals or more frequent under se-
r
>T~ ~
(. - *
62x167
Fig. 4—Dip Stick
Markings
MyMopar.com
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
(7) Remove the floor plate to floor panel attaching screws. Remove finish plate from under the instrument panel to expose the gearshift indicator link
or cable, and the steering column bracket and clamp.
OPERATING
LEVER
\
/
BACK-UP
-
21-45
LAMP
SWITCH
X
CAUTION; Be sure to disconnect the gearshift indicator link or cable before removing the steering
column to instrument panel clamp.
(8) Chrysler Models: Remove the screw that attaches the gearshift indicator link (slotted end) to the
operating lever on the column.
Imperial Models: Disconnect the gearshift indicator
cable from the cable actuating bracket pin on the
column gearshift tube.
(9) On some models, disconnect the brake pedal
from the master cylinder so the pedal can be raised
to provide steering column removal clearance. Lift
the steering column up and off the end of the worm
shaft.
C A U T I O N : A s the column assembly is removed up
through the opening, be very careful not to kink
the cables or damage the back-up light switch. T h e
Imperial cables are routed through a separate opening in the dash panel to the left of the steering column.
Disassembly
(1) Remove the snap ring from upper end of the
steering shaft (Fig. 5).
(2) Tap the steering shaft downward through the
upper column bearing, then remove the shaft and
lower bearing from the column.
(3) Remove the back-up lamp switch (Fig. 6). Loosen the locking nut on the operating lever, then slide
the lever out of the groove on the gearshift tube.
(4) Remove plate and seal washer from the sprag
lever pivot at lower end of the column (Fig. 7). Remove the cable lock plate retaining nut and washers.
SNAP
RING
.
1N_K302^
Fig. 6 — B a c k - U p Lamp
Switch
and
Operating
Lever
(5) Place the gearshift lever in the "low" position,
carefully work the seal (boot) upward and remove the
hair pin locks securing cables to their operating levers (Fig. 8). Remove the cable assemblies, then slide
the seal upward on the column jacket.
(6) Support the gearshift housing on a small socket, drive out the roll pin and remove the gearshift
lever (Fig. 9).
(7) Remove the pawl spring (Fig. 10). Remove the
three screws from the slotted holes in the column
jacket and lift out the sprag lever pivot and nylon
washer. Remove the sprag lever and the detent pawl.
Remove two screws and lift off the detent plate. Remove the cable bracket.
SEAL
1
(BOOT)
NK303
NK301
Fig. 5—Removing
or Installing
Snap
Ring
Steering
Shaft
Fig. 7—Removing
or Installing
Lower
Plate
Steering
Column
MyMopar.com
21-46
TORQUEfUTE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
PARKING
SPRAG
CABLE
?
*
ALLEN
WRENCH
f
GEARSHIFT
HOUSING
V
HAIR
PIN
LOCK
NK307
GEARSHIFT
CABLE
!
HAIR
Fig. &—Removing
PIN
LOCK
or Installing
NK304
Cable
Hair
Tapered
Lock Bolt
Pin
Locks
3 / 1 6 " DRIFT
/
GEARSHIFT
-HOUSING
F i g . 7 1 — R e m o v i n g or Installing
LEVER
(8) Rotate the gearshift housing to align opening
with the tapered lock bolt. Remove the lock bolt
with an Allen wrench (Fig. 11). With lock bolt removed, carefully pull the gearshift tube assembly out
of the column jacket.
(9) Remove the turn signal switch retainer from
the bearing housing and lift the switch upward out of
the way (Fig. 12). Remove four screws from inside
the bearing housing to separate it from the shift lever
gate.- Slide the gate out of the column jacket. If necessary, tap the column bearing out of the bearing housing.
BEARING
SUPPORTED
HOUSING
NK305
Fig. 9—Removing or Installing
CABLE
Gearshift
DETENT
BRACKET
SPRAG
Lever
PAWL
LEVER
WIRING
SCREWSC4)
SPRAG
LEVER
PIVOT
> SHIFT
'SCREWS(3)
PAWL
/
LEVER
GATE
S P R I N G ^
.if*
M
GEARSHIFT
HOUSING
-DETENT
PLATE
SCREWS(2)"
iHHHHi
F / g . 7 0 — l o w e r End &$ Column—Assembled
NK298
NK306
View
F i g . 7 2 — D i s a s s e m b l i n g or Assembling
End of
Upper
Column
MyMopar.com
•TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
GEARSHIFT
WAVE
HOUSING
WASHER
WASHER
SPRING
RETAINER
RETAINER
SCREW
NK299
Fig. 7 3 — G e a r s h i f t
Housing-Disassembled
(10) Lift the gearshift housing off the column jacket and remove wave washer from the hub counterbore (Fig. 13). If necessary, remove the shift lever
crossover spring load parts (Fig. 13).
Assembly
During assembly, apply a light film of Multi-Mileage
Lubricant or Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease Grade
2, to all parts in the column where friction occurs or
where lubrication would be required.
(1) If removed, install the insulator sleeve, column
support plate and lower lever seal (boot) on the column jacket before assembling other parts.
(2) Install the shift lever crossover spring load
parts in the gearshift housing (Fig. 13). Be sure all
of the parts move freely in the bore, then install the
retaining screw. Coat the wave washer with heavy
grease and place it in the hub counterbore.
(3) Install the column upper bearing in the bearing
housing, make sure the bearing is fully seated in the
housing.
(4) With the column jacket held upright, place the
gearshift and bearing housings on the jacket. Thread
the turn signal switch and horn wires through the
two housings, down into the column jacket and out
through the proper opening on the side of the jacket.
(5) Raise the bearing housing and slide the shift
lever gate into the upper end of the column jacket
(Fig. 12). Place the four retaining screws in the bearing housing (note the screw lengths, Fig. 12). Lower
the bearing housing and progressively thread the
screws into the shift lever gate, then tighten the
screws securely.
(6) Slide the spacer and felt washer on the gearshift tube. Install the coil spring (closed coil end
first) on the upper end of the gearshift tube. Slide the
tube assembly into the column, making sure the
spring will easily push the tube outward when hand
pressure is released.
(7) Refer to Figure 10, and install the detent plate
21-47
with screws finger tight. Install the detent pawl and
sprag lever. Do not install the pawl spring. Install
nylon washer and sprag lever pivot. Press the pivot
inward by hand (against spring tension) far enough
to start the three screws through the slotted holes in
the column jacket. Do not tighten the screws.
(8) Rotate the gearshift housing to align it so the
tapered lock bolt can be installed with an Allen
wrench (Fig. 11). Tighten the lock bolt securely.
(9) With the gearshift housing in NEUTRAL position, insert the gearshift lever. Support the gearshift
housing (Fig. 9) while driving the shift lever roll pin
into place.
(10) The gearshift lever must be held firmly in the
LOW position while adjusting the sprag lever, pivot
and detent plate. Adjust by rotating the sprag lever
pivot clockwise until the slot in the sprag lever is
tight against the pin (Fig. 14), then tighten the three
pivot screws. Install the pawl spring, then adjust the
detent plate to align the end detent with the pin on
the detent pawl. Tighten the detent plate screws.
Move the gearshift lever in and out of LOW several
times and inspect the adjustment.
(11) Install the cable bracket (Fig. 10) and tighten
the two retaining screws. Slide the seal (boot) down
in position over the cable bracket.
(12) Install the parking sprag cable first, secure it
to the sprag lever pin with the hair pin lock (Fig. 8).
Install the gearshift cable, secure it to the shift arm
pin with the hair pin lock. Align the seal boot and
cable lock plates, then install the rubber washer, metal washer and nut. Tighten the nut securely.
NOTE: The parking sprag cable lock plate must be
next to the seal boot, with the gearshift cable lock
DETENT
PAWL
SPRAG
DETENT
LEVER
PIVOT
PLATE
SLOT
TIGHT
IN
SPRAG
AGAINST
LEVER
PIN
•
Fig. 14—Adjusting
Sprag
Lever
and Detent
NK300
Plate
MyMopar.com
21-48
TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION (TORQUE CONVERTER)
plate on top of the sprag cable lock plate.
(13) Install the column jacket lower seal and plate,
and secure with the three screws. Position edge of
seal boot over the plate flange (Fig. 7).
(14) Position the turn signal switch in the bearing
housing, install switch retainer plate, and secure with
the three screws (Fig. 5).
(15) Slide the steering shaft and lower bearing assembly in the column. Tap the shaft through the upper bearing, then install the snap ring (Fig. 5).
(16) Place the gearshift lever in the NEUTRAL
position and slide the back-up switch operating lever
in the groove provided in the gearshift tube, then
tighten the locking nut (Fig. 6). Install and adjust the
switch so the actuator arm is snug against the operating lever, then tighten the switch retaining screws.
Installation
CAUT