Mitsubishi Pick-up 1998 Workshop Manual

PDF Download

Document

A-PDF Merger DEMO : Purchase from www.A-PDF.com to remove the watermark

Introductory pages

About this manual

Introduction to the Mitsubishi Pick-ups and Montero

Vehicle identification numbers

Buying parts

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Booster battery (jump) starting

Jacking and towing

Automotive chemicals and lubricants

Safety first!

Conversion

Troubleshooting factors

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2 Part A

2.6L four-cylinder engine

Chapter 2 Part B

2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder

Chapter 2 Part C

3.OL V6 engine engines

Chapter 2 Part D

General engineoverhaul

2. procedures

Chapter 3 -i

Cooling, heating and air conditioning

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Chapter 7 Part A

Manual transmission

Chapter 7 Part B

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7 Part C

Transfer case

Chapter 8

Clutch and drivetrain

Chapter 9

Brakes

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 11

Body systems

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Wiring diagrams

Index

12-10

IND-1

O-5 o-5

8:;

O-8 o-15,

O-18 o-17

O-18 o-19

O-20

1987 Mitsubishi pick-up

1988 Mitsubishi Montero

About this manual

Its purpose

The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. Itcandosoinseveralways. ltcan helpyoudecidewhatworkmust be done, even if you choose to have it done byadealerservice department or a repairshop; nance it provides and servicing; low when trouble occurs. information and it offers and procedures diagnostic and repair for routine mainte- procedures to fol-

We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appoint- ment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs.

An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction andaccomplishmentthat feel after doing the job yourself. you

Using the manual

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively

At the beginning of each numbered Section you w[liJe@erTedto illustrations which apply to the procedures numbered paragxaphs. in that Sectf&:The any’“.” ;it=Zbe7 reference -F ‘~’ numbers used in illustration captions pi the Step within that Section. That is, illus

(Section and refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragr

Procedures, oncZZe&ibed in th

Whenit’snecessat-ytorefertoanother as Chapter and Section number the word “Chapter” apply to S

Chapter. For example, “seeSeEtion’8

References to the left or rig in the driver’s seat, faa:G torward.

.Even though we @prepared this n&rual with extremae, the publisher nor the..author can accept responsibility for anyzrrors omissions from, the information given..

--z-Et*

; -- .+;*

;

_ neither in, or

A Note provides information necessary to understand. to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier

CAUTION

A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING

A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the

Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the

Mitsubishi pick-up and Montero

Pick-up models are available in standard and extended cab body styles with short or long bed lengths. Montero models are available in two- or four-door body styles.

Most four-cylinder engines are equipped with carburetors. cylinder and all V6 engines are equipped with port fuel injection. later four-

The engine drives the rear wheels through either a four or five-speed manual orthree or four-speed automatic transmission via a driveshaftand solid rear axle. A transfer case and driveshaft are used to drive the front differential and driveaxles

The front suspension on 4WD models. features upper and lowercontrol arms, shockab- sorbers, coil springs (2WD models) or torsion bars (4WD models). The solid rear axle is suspended by leaf springs and shock absorbers on most models. Some later models use coil spring rear suspension with the axle located by trailing arms and a track rod.

The steering box is mounted to the left of the engine and is connected to the steering arms by a series of rods. Power assist is standard on most later models.

Thebrakesarediscatthefrontanddrumsattherear, withpowerassist on most models.

Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications manufacturing. are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle

Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard, driver’sskfeofthevehicle(seeillustration).TheVIN

Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. as where and when the vehicle was manufactured,

It contains information such the model year and the body style. just inside the windshield on the alsoappearsonthe

Chassis number

The chassis number is stamped on the frame under the vehicle, near the right rear shock absorber

Engine identification number

The engine ID number consists of two parts: a model number and a serial number. On four-cylinder engines, it is located on the right side of the engrne In oneof two places: 1) on a machined surface at the front car- ner of the block, just below the number one spark plug (2.6L engine) or

2) at the lower right front corner of block (2.ClL and 2.4L engine) (see illustrations). On V6 engines, the ID number is located on a pad at the right side of the block (see illustration).

/I !I

---------_I

FT------.--~

--._ .__.

..---.--

- ~.---) f-

The vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is visible from outside the vehicle through the driver’s side sf the windshield

On 2.6L four-cylinder engines, the identification number is located on a machined surface at the right front corner of the block, just below the cylinder head

Location of the identification four-cylinder number on 2.OL and 2.4L engines V6 engine ID number location

Vehicle identification numbers

Paint code identification plate

This plate is located in the engine compartment, usuallyon the radiator support but also on the firewall (see illustration). It tells what color and type of paint was originally applied to the vehicle.

#

Safety Certification label

The Safety Certification label is affixed to the left door pillar. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement.

g

-$!,, \~,- @@ o-7

The paint code ID plate is usually located on the radiator support

Buying parts

Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories-authorized dealer parts departments and independent is as follows: retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts

Retailaofopartsstores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned save a considerable amount parts of money. on an exchange

Discount basis, auto parts which stores can are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed forgeneralvehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessorles, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available else- where (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement

-do not invalidate the warranty! parts purchased-regardless of the source

To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Maintenance techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners

Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt.

Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out.

Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washerswith new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface

(such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and

working facilities

Fastener sizes

For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, tell the difference between standard (sometimes it is important to be able to called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged.

All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a-standard l/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is l/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch longiAn M12- 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable.

In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head

.is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should

o- 9

not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut.

Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class

(grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

Grade 1 or 2 Grade 5 Grade 8

Bolt strength markings (top - standard/SAE/USS; bottom-metric)

Grade Identification

Hex Nut

Grade 5

Hex Nut

Grade 8 l l

3 Dots

. 0

6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

Class Identification

Hex Nut f+&y 0

Arabic 9

Hex Nut

Property

Class 10 0

Arabic1 0

Metric hex nut strength markings

CLASS

10.9

CLASS

9.8

Metric stud length markings

CLASS

8.8

O-IO Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through

2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size.

Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric.

However, it should fine threadfastener to as USS sizes. be noted that SAE technically only. Coarse thread non-metric refers to a non-metric fasteners are referred

Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastenerwith a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures

Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value

(torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening break, while undertightening the fastener can cause can weaken it to eventually it and cause come loose. it to

Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, in the Specifications have specific torque values, many of which are noted at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations cbsely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). grade of a fastener

As was previously determine the amount mentioned, of torque the size and that can

Metric thread sizes

M-6 .................................

M-8 .................................

M-10 ................................

M-12 ................................

M-14 ...... .._._r-....*........._

Pipe thread sizes

l/8 .................................. t/4 ..................................

3/8.............*- l/2 ..................................

...................

U.S. thread sizes

i/4-20

5/16-18..

5116-24

318-16

318-24

7116-14

7/16-20 i/2-13

..............................

...........................

.............................

..............................

.............................

..............................

Ft-lbs

6to9

14to21

28to40

5at07i

.... 89to140

5to8

121018

22to33

25to35

6to9

12tol8

14to20

22to32

27to38

40to55

4Oto60

55to80

9toi2

19to28

38 to 54

68 to 96

109to 154

7toio

17to24

3oto44

34 to 47

9toi2

17to24

19to27

30 to 43

37 to 51

55 to 74

55 to 81

75to 108

G- P-

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G Grade marks (bolt length)

L Length (in inches)

T Thread pitch (number of threads per inch)

D Nominal diameter (in inches)

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

P Property class [bolt strength)

L Length (in millimeters)

T Threadpitch

D Diameter

(distance between threads in millimeters)

Maintenance techniques, tools

and working facilities

safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade

2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values.

Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate lowing procedures

Chapter. If a specific can be used to prevent pattern warping. is not given, the fol-

Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed.

It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal.

When removing fasteners from a component, tions. Sometimes threading a bolt back keep track in a part, or putting of their loca- fhe washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compar- tmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of thistypeisespecially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

o- 1-i

Hose removal tips

Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not discon- nectanyoftheA/C hoses withoutfirsthaving thesystemdepressurizedby a dealer service department or a service station.

Hose removal precautions clbsely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Be- cause of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one any- way), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must damaged. be done, be careful that the metal connection is not

If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools

A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high,, but when compared to the spiraling one. costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise

Gasket sealing surfaces

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure con- tained in an assembly.

Manytimesthese:gasketsarecoatedwithaliquidorpaste-typegasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can some- timescausethetwo parts to sticktogetherso tightlythatthey are verydiffi- cult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the pat-t. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain

, smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usuallysofterthan the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with awire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly non-drying (or semi-drying) of the components. For most applications, gasket sealer should be used. a

Micrometer set

Dial indicator set

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial Caliper Hand-operated vacuum pump Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool asa _- zssA ~

- -

Valve spring compressor Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer Piston ring groove cleaning tool Ring removai/instaiiation tool

Maintenance

techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor Cylinder hone Brake hold-down tool

Brake cylinder hone Clutch plate alignment tool Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repain Repair/overhaul and Special.

The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basickit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period,of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer willassembleatoolsetcompleteenoughformostrepairandoverhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repairwork. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-endcombined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination

Adjustable wrench set (l/4-inch to I inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) wrench, 8 inch

Spark plug wrench with rubber insert

Spark plug gap aqusting tool

Feeler gauge set

Brake bleeder wrench

Standard screwdriver

Hacksaw and assortment

Tire pressure gauge

(5/16-inch x 6 inch)

Phillips screwdriver

Combination pliers

(No. 2 x 6 inch)

- 6 inch of blades

Grease gun

Oil can

Fine emery cloth

Wire brush

Battery post and cable cleaning tool

Oil filter wrench

Funnel (medium size)

Safety goggles

Jackstands(2)

Drain pan

Note: If basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing it will light and combination tachometerdwellmeter. Although they are includedin the list of special fools, if is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repairtool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various exten- sions and drives are available. We recommend the l/2-inch drive overthe

3/84nch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a l/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s)

Reversible ratchet

Extension - 10 inch

Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets)

Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce

Soft-face hammer (plastic/robber)

Standard screwdriver

(l/4-inch x 6 inch)

(stubby - 5/16-inch)

Phillips screwdriver

(No. 3 x 8 inch)

(stubby - No. 2)

o-14 Maintenance techniques, tools and workina facilities

Pliers - vise grip

Pliers - lineman’s

Pliers - needle nose

Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel - l/i-inch

Scribe

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)

Centerpunch

Pin punches (If1 6, l/8, 3/16-inch)

Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch

Allen wrench set (l/8 to 3/8-inch or 4 mm to 10 mm)

A selection of files

Wire brush (large)

Jackstands (second set)

Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools

The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. very economical

Unless to purchase these tools will be used frequently, many of them. A consideration would it is not be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. .

This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturerfordistribution todealerservicedepartments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or bor- rowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning too/

Piston ring compressor

Piston ring installation tool

Cylinder compression gauge

Cylinder ridge reamer

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder bore gauge

Micrometers and/or dial calipers

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Universal-type puller

Impact screwdriver

Dial indicator set

Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

Tachometer/dwell meter

Universal electrical multimeter

Cable hoist

Brake spring removal and installation tools

Floor jack

Buying tools

For the do-it-yourselfer maintenance and repair, who is just starting there are a number to get involved of options in vehicle available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repairis the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool setfrom one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additronal tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used.

Tool stores tilloften be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with re- spect. Keep them clean and In usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area, Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, me- ters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools.

When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing thing more than routine maintenance tools is to be carried is the workshop. If any- out, some sort of suitable work area is essential.

It is understood, andappreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop orgarage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.

A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an ab- solute necessrty. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches.

As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary;

Sometimes waste oil and fluids drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large contamers. seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and dispos- able. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood. always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting

hicle:

Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a ve- a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other!

Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connectthe type, remove the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery.

Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block (see illustration). contact with the fan, drivebelts

Make sure the cable will not come into or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect connection. the jumper cables in’the reverse order of

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is

NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing

Jacking

The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehiclewhenchanging atireorplacingjackstands undertheframe. Warn- ing: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support.

The vehicle should be on level ground with the hazard flashers on. the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in Park

(automatic) or Reverse (manual). If atire is being changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn and leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Place the jack under the vehicle suspension in the indicated position (see illustration). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on with the bevelled sides facing in. Tighten them snugly, but wait until the vehicle is lowered to tighten them completely. Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten the nuts (if loosened or removed) in a crisscross pattern.

To wing

As a general rule, vehicles may be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If necessary, the front or rear wheels may be raised for towing.

On vehicles with an automatic transmission, do not exceed 19 MPH ortow thevehiclefartherthan 19 miles (thereare on vehicles with a manual transmission). nospeedordistance limitations

Equipmentspecifically designed for towing should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumper or brackets. Tow hooks are attached to the frame at both ends of the vehicle. However, they are for emergency use only and should not be used for highway towing. Stand clear of vehicles when using the tow hooks - tow straps and chains may break, causing serious injury.

Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used for all towing

(in addition to the tow bar).

While towing, the parking brake must be released, the transmission must be in Neutral and the transfer case (if equipped) must be in 2H. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). If you’re towing a 4WD model with the front wheels on the ground, the front hubs must be unlocked. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Front

(Rear-Wheel-l

Rear

Jacking points

Automotive chemicals and lubricants .

A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components.

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami- nants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired.

Demoisfurants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants

Moforoilis the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to

80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. acteristics of both

Multi-viscosity light and heavy oilsaredesigned oils and are available to have char- in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 2OW-50.

Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. such as for wheel bearings,

High-temperature wbeeibearinggreaseis designed to withstand the extreme temperatures equipped vehicles. encountered

It usually which is a dry-type lubricant. contains by wheel bearings molybdenum in disc brake disulfide (moly),

White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +l go-degrees dilute in the presence of water.

F), and will not wash off or

Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually con- taining moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out orwashed away until the engine oiling system begins to function.

Silicone iubricantsare used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.

Graphite iubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated trically conductive ignition switch. by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is elec- and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the

Moiypenetranfsloosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sinkgreaseis a special electrically non-conductive used for mounting electronic ignition modules,where heat is transferred away from the module. grease that is it is essential that

Sealants

RTVseaiantis one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, iemainsflexible, and is used as a supplementary temperature gaskets. doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, sealer with almost all Iqw and medium

Anaerobicseaianf is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobicsea- lant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together.

Threadandpipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittingsand vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals

Anti-seizecompoundprevents corrosion in fasteners. seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and

High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vi- I brating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis.

Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treat- ments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup.They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to breakdown carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous

Brake fluidis specially formulated hydraulic fluid thatcan withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container water or dirt. ‘ should always be resealed to prevent contamination by

Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes around used to attach trim pieces.

Undercoaiing is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening the vehicle. . agent by insulating the bottom of

Waxes andpolishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on oldervehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain awide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been intro- duced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. moments lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure

A to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to ail work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOS and DON’Ts

DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands der the recommended to support the weight of the vehicle and place them un- lift or support points.

DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall.

(i.e. wheel

DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission lug nuts) is in

Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set.

DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system -let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually.

DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you.

DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. .

DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON’T inhale brake lining dust-it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below)

DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor- wipe it up before someone slips on it.

DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury.

DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Al- ways try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the if the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles wrench should slip.

DON’Tattempttoli~aheavycomponentalone-getsomeonetohelpyou.

DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job.

DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it.

DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle.

DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled

DO keep chemicals and tightened. and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DOrememberthatyourvehicle’ssafety

If in doubt on any point, get professional affectsthat advice. of yourself andothers.

Asbestos

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products-such linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, as brake etc. -contain asbestos. Extremecaremustbe taken toavoidinhalationofdust from suchproducts, sinceit is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire

Remember at all times that gasoline is highly ftammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built upinyourbodyundercertainconditions, can ignitegasolinevapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts, Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system orelectricalsystem. ing fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component.

Never riskspill-

It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at aJl times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes

Certainfumesarehighly toxicandcanquicklycauseunconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers.

Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as agarage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area.

If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, possibly lethal results. being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with

The battery

Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery.

They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems.

If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin.

Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current

When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, tern voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. the secondary sys;

Conversion

Length (distance)

Inches (in)

Feet (ft)

Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in3)

Imperial pints (Imp pt)

Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US quarts (US qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

factors

X 25.4 = Millimetres

X 0.305 = Metres (m)

X 1.609 = Kilometres

(mm)

(km)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres

X 0.568 = Litres (I)

X 1.137 = Litres (I)

X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt)

X 0.946

X 4.546

= Litres (I)

X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal)

X 3.785 = Litres (I)

(cc; cm3)

X 0.0394

3.281

0.621

= Inches (in)

= Feet (ft)

= Miles

0.061

1.76

0.88

0.833

1.057

0.22

0.833

0.264

= Cubic inches (cu in: it?)

= Imperial pints (Imp pt)

= Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

= US auarts (US qt)

= Imperial gallons jlmp gal)

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

= US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weigh tl

Ounces (02)

Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force

Pounds-force

Newtons (N)

(ozf; 02)

(Ibf; lb)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in*; lb/k?)

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi: Ibf/in’: lb/in*)

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in’; lb/in’)

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi: Ibf/in*; lb/in’)

Kilopascals (kPa)

X 28.35

X 0.454

= Grams (g)

= Kilograms (kg)

X 0.278 = Newtons

X 4.448 = Newtons x 0.1 = Kilograms-force

(N)

(kgf; kg)

X 0.070 = Kilograms-force centimetre

X 0.068 =Atmospheres

(kgf/cm’:

(atm) per square kg/cm’)

X 0.069 = Bars

X 6.895 = Kilopascals

X 0.01 = Kilograms-force centimetre

(kPa) per square

(kgf/cm*: kg/cm’)

X 0.035

X 2.205

X 3.6

X 0.225

X 9.81

14.223

14.696

14.5

0.145

98.1

= Ounces (02)

= Pounds (lb)

= Ounces-force

= Pounds-force

= Newtons (N)

(ozf; 02)

(Ibf; lb)

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in*: lb/in*)

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in’; lb/in’)

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi: Ibf/in’; lb/in*)

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in*; lb/in’)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force

(Ibf in: lb in)

Pounds-force

(Ibf in: lb in)

Pounds-force inches inches feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Newton metres (Nm)

X 1 .152 = Kilograms-force centimetre

(kgf cm; kg cm)

X 0.1 13 = Newton metres’ (Nm)

X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

X 0.138 = Kilograms-force

(kgf m; kg m) metres

X 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm)

X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres

(kgf m; kg m)

0.868

8.85

7.233

0.738

9.804

= Pounds-force

(Ibf in; lb in)

= Pounds-force

(Ibf in; lb in)

= Pounds-force

(Ibf in: lb in)

= Pounds-force inches inches inches feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

= Newton metres (Nm)

Power

Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr: mph)

X 745.7 = Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X 0.62 1 = Miles per hour (milesjhr; mph)

Fuel consumption+

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X 0.354

X 0.425

= Kilometres

= Kilometres per litre (km/l) per litre (km/l)

2.825

2.352

= Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

= Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (“C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade;

*it is comnion practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to lhs/lOO khm&es (//f OOkm/, where mpg (Imperial) x 1/l 00 km = 282 and mpg (US) x If1 00 km = 235

T) = (OF - 32) x 0.56

Troubleshooting

Contents

Symptom

Engine and performance

Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on .........

Alternator light stays on .................................

Battery will not hold a charge .............................

Enginebackfires ......................................

Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off .........

Engine hard to start when cold ............................

Engine hard to start when hot .............................

Engine lacks power .....................................

Engine ‘lopes’while idling or idles erratically

Engine misses at idle speed ..............................

.................

Engine misses throughout driving speed range ...............

Engine rotates but will not start ............................

Engine stalls .................................

Engine starts but stops immediately ........................

_ ........

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady ...............

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start ................

Excessive fuel consumption ..............................

Excessively high idle speed ..............................

Excessive oil consumption ...............................

Fuelodor .............................................

Hesitation or stumble during acceleration

Low oil pressure .......................................

....................

Miscellaneous engine noises .............................

Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine isunderload

Starter motor

........................................ noisy or engages roughly .....................

Starter motor operates without turning engine ................

Section

1 i 0

Cooling system

Abnormal coolant loss

Corrosion . . . , . . . . .

External coolant leakage .

Internal coolant leakage . .

Overcooling

Overheating

. . .

; . .

Poor coolant circulation

. . . . .

. .

. ..*.. ............

. ............

............

. r . . . . .

. . . .

. 31

. 33

. 28

. 27

Clutch

Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle speed) . . . . . . .

Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor 1 shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse)

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged

. ,

. . .

. 35

_. . . . . . _ _ . . . . . . . . . 36

Squeal or rumble with clutch disengaged (pedal depressed)

Squeal or rumble with clutch engaged (pedal released)

. . . . 38

. . . , . . 37

Manual transmission

Difficulty engaging gears ................................

Noise occurs while shifting gears .........................

Noisy in all gears ......................................

Noisy in Neutral with engine running ......................

Noisy in one particular gear .............................

Oil leaks ............................................

Slipsoutofgear ......................................

Automatic transmission

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral ............

Fluidleakage ..........................................

Symptom

General shift mechanism

Transmission problems

......................... slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or Reverse gears

Transmission accelerator will not downshift pedal pressed with the to the floor

.....................

Section

Driveshaft

Knock or clunk when transmission load (just after transmission

Leaks at front of driveshaft is under initial is put into gear)

...............................

................

Metallic grating sound consistent with vehicle speed ...........

Scrapingnoise .....................

Vibration .............................................

Whining or whistling noise ................................

....._.....__. ......

Rear axle and differential

Knocking sound when starting or shifting gears ...............

Noise -same when in drive as when vehicle is coasting ........

Noise when turning .......................

.............

Oilleaks .............................................

Vibration ............................................

,. 61

Transfer case (4WD models)

Difficult shifting ........................................

Gearjumpingoutofmesh.. ....................

Noise.. ..............................................

. __._. ....

Brakes

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

...................

................

Brakes drag (indicated by sluggish engine performance or wheels being very hot after driving)

Excessfvebrakepedaltravel

....................

.............................

Excessive effort required to stop vehicle .....................

Noise (high-pitched squeal) ...................... _. .......

Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance .................

Rear brakes lock up under heavy brake application .......

Rear brakes lock up under light brake application

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking .....................

.............

....

Suspension and steering

Excessively stiff steering .................................

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around

80 comers or during braking excessive play in steering

..............

................................

.J ..............

Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) .................

Excessive tire wear on inside edge .........................

Excessive tire wear on outside edge ........................

Lackof power

Miscellaneous assistance noises

Noisypowersteeringpump

.................

........................

...............

Shimmy, shake or vibration .....................

Steering effort not the same in both directions (power system) ............................

Steering wheel fails to return to straight-ahead

_, ... I .........

_ r _ _. . _ ....

J_._ ..__-. ______ 85

_. ........ 77

88~

Tiretreadworninoneplace

Vehicle

Wandering pulls to one side or general

........................ instability

._ .............

........................... position .........

. ..............

_. .......

Troubleshooting

This Section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems that may occur during the operation of your vehicle. Various symptoms and their probable causes are grouped under headings denot- ing components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer to the Chapter and/or Section that deals with the problem.

Remember that successful troubleshooting isn’t a mysterious black art practiced only by professional mechanics, edge combined with an intelligent, systematic it’s simply the result of knowl- approach to a problem. Al- ways use a process of elimination starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex -and never overlook the obvious.

Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don’t assume that you’re exempt from such oversights.

Finally, always establish a clear idea why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that it doesn’t happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other connections in the system to make sure they don’t fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why-don’t of a small component just go on replacing can often be indicative rect functioning of a more important component fuses. Remember, of potential or system. failure failure or incor-

o-21

12 Wet or damaged ignition components (Chapters 1 and 5).

13 Worn, faulty or incorrectly

14 Broken, loose or disconnected gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). wires in the starting circuit (see previous Section).

15 Loose distributor (changing ignition timing). Turn the distributor body as necessary to start the engine, then adjust the ignition timing as soon as possible (Chapter 1).

16 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil

(Chapter 5).

17 Timing chain or belt failure or wear affecting valve timing (Chapter 2). /

3 Starter motor operates without turning engine

1 Starter pinion sticking. Remove the starter (Chapter 5) and inspect.

2 Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover and inspect.

Engine and performance

1 Engine will not rotate when attdmpting to start

1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the battery; tighten cable clamp and/or clean off corrosion as necessary (see Chapter 1).

2 Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable ends are clean and tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the Oh position and switch on the headlights or windshield wipers. If they won’t run, the battery is discharged.

3 Automatic transmission not engaged in park (P) or Neutral (N).

4 Broken, loose or disconnected wires and connectors

(on steering column). wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch

5 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter (Chapter 5) and inspect pinion and flywheel

(Chapter 2) at earliest convenience.

6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).

7 Starter motor faulty (Ohapter 5).

8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12).

9 Engine seized. Try to turn the crankshaft breaker bar on the pulley bolt. with a large socket and

4 Engine hard to start when cold

1 Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Chapter 1.

2 Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injectors. Checkthefuel lines and fuel pump (Chapters 1 and 4).

3 Choke inoperative (Chapters 1 and 4).

4 Defective spark plugs (Chapter 1). filter,

5 Engine hard to start when hot

1 Air filter dirty (Chapter 1).

2 Fuel not reaching carburetor or fuel injectors (see Section 4). Check for a vapor lock situation, brought about by clogged fuel tank vent lines.

3 Bad engine ground connection. *

4 Choke sticking (Chapter 1).

5 Defective pick-up coil in distributor (Chapter 5).

6 Float level too high (Chapter 4).

6 Starter motor noisy or engages roughly

1 Pinion or flywheel/driveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and inspect.

2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.

2 Engine rotates but will not start

1 Fuel tank empty.

2 Battery discharged electrical components

(engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of as described in previous Section.

3 Battery terminal connections tion. loose or corroded. See previous Sec-

4 Fuel not reaching carburetor or fuel injector. Check for clogged fuel filter or lines and defective fuel pump. Also make sure the tank vent lines aren’t clogged (Chapter 4).

5 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1).

6 Faulty distributor components. Check the cap and rotor (Chapter 1).

7 Low cylinder compression.

8 Valve clearances not properly

Check as described adjusted- Chapter in Chapter

1 (four-cylinder

2. gines).

9 Water in fuel. Drain tank and fill with new fuel. en-

10 Defective ignition coil (Chapter 5).

11 Dirty or clogged carburetor jets or fuel injector. Carburetor justment. Check the float level (Chapter 4). out of ad-

7 Engine starts but stops immediately

1 Loose or damaged wire harness connections ternator. at distributor, coil or al-

2 Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting bolts/nuts are proper- tight and all vacuum hoses connected to the manifold areattached ly and in good condition.

3 Insufficient fuel flow (see Chapter 4).

8 Engine ‘lopes’ while idling or idles erratically

1 Vacuum leaks. Check mounting bolts at the intake manifold fortight- ness. Make sure that all vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition. Use a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks while’the engine is running. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will also detect leaks. Check the intake manifold gasket surfaces.

0 - 22 Troubleshooting

2 Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapters 1 and 6).

3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1).

4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel (Chapter 4).

5 Leaking head gasket. Perform a cylinder compression check (Chap- ter 2).

6 Timing chain or belt worn (Chapter 2).

7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).

8 Valve clearance out of adjustment-Chapter 1 (four-cylinder

9 Valves burned or otherwise leaking (Chapter 2).

10 ignition timing out of adjustment (Chapter 1).

11 ignition system not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 5).

12 Thermostatic air cleaner not operating properly (Chapter 1).

13 Choke not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 4). engine).

14 Dirty or clogged injector(s). Carburetor ment. Check the float level (Chapter 4).

15 idle speed out of adjustment dirty, clogged

(Chapter 1). or out of adjust-

9 Engine misses at idle speed

1 Spark plugs faulty or not gapped properly (Chapter 1).

2 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1).

3 Wet or damaged distributor components (Chapter 1).

4 Short circuits in ignition coil or spark plug wires.

5 Sticking or faulty emissions systems (see Chapter 6).

6 Clogged fuel filter and/or foreign matter in fuel. Remove the fuel filter

(Chapter 1) and inspect.

7 Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or hose connections. scribed in Section 8.

Check

8 Incorrect idle speed (Chapter 1) or idle mixture (Chapter 4).

9 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). as de-

IO Low or uneven cylinder compression.

Check

11 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1). as described in Chapter

12 Clogged or dirty fuel injectors (Chapter 4).

2 Defective alternator (Chapter 5).

3 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

14 Engine misses throughout driving speed range

7 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system. Check fuel filter (Chapter 1) or clean system (Chapter 4).

2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

3 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1).

4 Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged I distributor components (Chapter 1).

5 Defective spark plug wires (Chapter 1).

6 Emissions system components faulty (Chapter 6).

Check as described 7 Low or uneven cylinder compression in Chapter 2. pressures.

8 Weak or faulty ignition coil (Chapter-S).

9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).

10 Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or vacuum hoses (see Section 8).

11 Dirty or clogged carburetor or fuel injector (Chapter 4).

12 Leaky EGR valve (Chapter 6).

13 Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4).

14 Idle speed out of adjustment (Chapter 1).

15 Hesitation or stumble during acceleration

1 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

2 Ignition system not operating properly (Chapter 5).

3 Dirty or clogged carburetoror fuel injector (Chapter 4).

4 Lowfuelpressure.Checkfarproperoperationofthefuelpumpandfor restrictions

5 Carburetor in the fuel filter and lines (Chapter 4). out of adjustment [Chapter 4).

IO Excessively high idle speed

1 Sticking throttle linkage (Chapter 4).

2 Choke opened excessively

3 Idle speed incorrectly adjusted at idle (Chapter

(Chapter 1).

4).

4 Valve clearances gines). incorrectly adjusted -Chapter 1 (four-cylinder en-

11 Battery will not hold a charge

1 Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).

2 Battery cables loose or corroded (Chapter 1).

3 Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).

4 Loose, broken or faulty wires in the charging circuit (Chapter 5).

5 Short circuit causing a continuous

6 Battery defective internally. drain on the battery.

16 Engine stalls

1 Idle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).

2 Fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities

(Chapter 1).

3 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1).

4 Damaged or wet distributor cap and wires.

5 Emissions system components faulty (Chapter 6). in the fuel system

6 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Also check the spark plug wires (Chapter 1).

7 Vacuum leak at the carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. .,

Check as described in Section 8.

8 Valve clearances incorre&- Chapter 1 (four-cylinder engine).

12 Alternator light stays on

1 Fault in alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).

2 Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter 1).

13 Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on

1 Faulty bulb (Chapter 12).

17 Engine lacks power

1 incorrect rgnttion taming (Chapter 1).

2 Excessrve play in distributor shah. At the same time check for faulty distributor cap, wires, etc. (Chapter 1).

3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

4 Air filter drrty (Chapter 1).

5 Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).

6 Brakes binding (Chapters

7 Automatictransmission

1 and 10). fluid level incorrect, causing slippage (Chap- ter 1).

8 Clutch slipping (Chapter 8).

9 Fuel filter clogged and/or impunties in the fuel system (Chapters and 4).

Troubleshooting

IO EGR system not functioning

11 Use of sub-standard properly (Chapter fuel. Fill tank with proper

6). octane fuel.

12 Low or uneven cylinder compression in ,Chapter 2. pressures. Check as described

13 Air leak at carburetor tion 8). or intake manifold (check

14 Dirty or clogged carburetor jets or malfunctioning as described choke in Sec-

(Chapters 1 and 4).

18 Engine backfires

1 EGR system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).

2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

3 Thermostatic air cleaner system not operating properly (Chapter 6).

4 Vacuum leak (refer to Section 8).

5 Valve clearances incorrect - Chapter 1 (four-cylinder

6 Damaged valve springs or sticking valves (Chapter 2). engine).

7 Intake air leak (see Section 8).

8 Carburetor float level out of adjustment (Chapter 4).

O-23

23 Excessive oil consumption

1 Loose oil drain plug.

2 Loose bolts or damaged oil pan gasket (Chapter 2).

3 Loose bolts or damaged front cover gasket (Chapter 2).

4 Front or rear crankshaft oil seal leaking (Chapter 2).

5 Loose bolts or damaged rocker arm cover gasket (Chapter 2).

6 Loose oil filter (Chapter 1).

7 Loose or damaged oil pressure switch (Chapter 2).

8 Pistons and cylinders excessively worn (Chapter 2).

9 Piston rings not installed correctly on pistons (Chapter 2).

10 Worn or damaged piston rings (Chapter 2).

11 Intake and/or exhaust valve oil seals worn or damaged (Chapter 2).

12 Worn valve stems.

13 Worn or damaged valves/guides (Chapter 2).

19 Engine surges while holding accelerator steady

1 Intake air leak (see Section 8).

2 Fuel pump not working properly (Chapter 4).

24 Excessive fuel consumption

1 Dirty or clogged air filter e!ement (Chapter 1).

2 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1).

3 Incorrect idle speed (Chapter 1).

4 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 1;).

5 Fuelleakage.Checkallconnections,linesandcomponentsin system (Chapter 4).

6 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1).

7 Dirty or clogged carburetor jets or fuel injectors (Chapter 4). thefuel

20 Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine is under load

1 Incorrect grade of fuel. Fill tank with fuel of the proper octane rating.

2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

3 Carbon build-up in combustion chambers. Remove cylinder head(s) and clean combustion chambers (Chapter 2).

4 Incorrect spark plugs (Chapter 1).

25 Fuel odor

1 Fuel leakage. Checkall connections, system (Chapter 4). lines and components in the fuel

2 Fuel tank overfilled. Fill only to automatic shut-off.

3 Charcoal canister filter in Evaporative Emissions clogged (Chapter 1).

4 Vapor leaks from Evaporative Emissions Control

Control system system lines (Chap- ter 6).

21 Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off

1 Idle speed too high (Chapter 1).

2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

3 Incorrect spark plug heat range (Chapter 1).

4 Intake air leak (see Section 8).

5 Carbon build-up in combustion head(s) and clean the combustion chambers. chambers

Remove

(Chapter 2). the cylinder

6 Valves sticking (Chapter 2).

7 Valve clearances incorrect - Chapter 1 (four-cylinder engine).

8 EGR system not operating properly (Chapter 6).

9 Fuel shut-off system not operating properly (Chapter 6).

10 Check for causes of overheating (Section 27).

22 Low oil pressure

1 Improper grade of oil.

2 Oil pump worn or damaged (Chapter 2).

3 Engine overheating (refer to Section 27).

4 Clogged oil filter (Chapter 1).

5 Clogged oil strainer (Chapter 2).

6 Oil pressure gauge not working properly (Chapter 2).

26 Miscellaneous engine noises

1 A strong dull noise that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates indicates worn or damaged crankshaft bearings or an unevenly worn crankshaft. To pinpoint the trouble spot, remove the spark plug wire from oneplugatatimeandcranktheengineover. Ifthenoisestops, thecylinder with the removed plug wire indicates the problem area. Replace the bearing and/or service or replace the crankshaft (Chapter 2).

2 A similar (yet slightly higher pitched) noise to the crankshaft knocking described in the previous paragraph, that becomes more rapid as the engine accelerates, indicates worn or damaged connecting rod bearings

(Chapter 2). The procedure for locating the problem cylinder is the same as described in Paragraph 1.

3 An overlapping metallic noise that increases in intensity as the engine speed increases, yet diminishes as the engine warms up indicates abnormal piston and cylinder wear (Chapter 2). To locate the problem cylinder, use the procedure described in Paragraph 1.

4 A rapid clicking noise that becomes faster as the engine accelerates indicatesaworn piston pin or piston pin hole. This sound will happen each time the piston hits the highest and lowest points in the stroke (Chapter2).

The procedure for locating the problem piston is described in Paragraph 1.

5 A metallic clicking noise coming from the water pump indicates worn or damaged water pump bearings or pump. Replace the water pump with a new one (Chapter 3).

O-24 Troubleshooting

6 A rapid tapping sound or clicking sound that becomes faster as the engine speed increases indicates “valve tapping” or improperly adjusted valve clearances. This can be identified by holding one end of a section of hosetoyourearand placing theotherend atdifferentspotsalong the rocker arm cover. The point where the sound is loudest indicates the problem valve. Adjust the valve clearance (Chapter 1). If the problem persists, you likely have a collapsed valve lifter or other damaged valve train component. Changing the engine oil and adding a high-viscosity oil treatment will sometimes cure a stuck lifter problem. If the problem still persists, the lift- ers and rocker arms must be removed for inspection (see Chapter 2).

7 A steady metallic rattling or rapping sound coming from the area of the timing chain cover indicates aworn, damaged or out-of-adjustment timing chain. Service or replace the chain and related components (Chapter 2).

1 move the cylinder

Leaking

Cracked

(Chapter

Loose

2). cylinder cylinder cylinder head gasket. head (Chapter bore or cylinder head bolts

Have the system

2) and inspect.

(tighten head. Dismantle as described pressure engine tested in Chapter and inspect

2). or i-e-

31 Abnormal coolant loss

1 Overfilling system (Chapter 1).

2 Coolant boiling away due to overheating (see causes in Section 27).

3 Internal or external leakage (see Sections 29 and 30).

4 Faulty radiator cap. Have the cap pressure tested.

5 Cooling system being pressurized by engine compression. could be due to a cracked head or block or leaking head gasket(s).

This

Cooling system

27 Overheating

1 Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).

2 Drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).

3 Radiator core blocked or radiator grille dirty or restricted (Chapter 3).

4 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).

5 Fan not functioning properly (Chapter 3).

6 tested

Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Have cap pressure by gas station or repair shop.

7 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).

8 Defective water pump (Chapter 3).

9 Improper grade of engine oil.

10 Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 12).

28 Overcooling

1 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).

2 inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 12)

32 Poor coolant circulation

1 InoperatIve water pump. A quick test is to pinch the top radiator hose closedwith your hand while theengine is idling, then release it. You shoutd feel a surge of coolant if the pump is working properly (Chapter 3).

2 Restriction in cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system (Chap- ter 1). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3) and have it reverse flushed or professionally cleaned.

3 Loose water pump drivebelt (Chapter 1).

4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

5 Insufficient coolant (Chapter 1).

33 Corrosion

1 Excessive impurities in the water. Soft, clean water is recommended.

Distilled or rainwater is satisfactory.

2 Insufficient antifreeze solution (refer to Chapter 1 for the proper ratio of water to antifreeze).

3 Infrequent flushing and draining of system. Regular flushing of the cooling system should be carried out at the specified intervals as described in (Chapter 1).

29 External coolant leakage

Deteriorated

2Chapter 1). or damaged hoses. Loose clamps at hose connections

2 Water pumpsealsdefective. If this is the case, water will drip from the weep hole in the water pump body (Chapter 3).

3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the radiator to be professionally

1 and 2).

Enginedrain of the engine plugsor

Leak from coolant repaired temperature oil as noted

(see Chapter waterjacketfreeze in Section switch

30.

3 for removal procedures). plugs leaking (see Chapters

(Chapter 3).

6 Leak from damaged gaskets or small cracks (Chapter 2).

7 Damaged head gasket. This can be verified by checking the condition

30 Internal coolant leakage

Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining the oil.

Check the dipstick and inside the rocker arm cover for water deposits and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake.

Clutch

Note: A// c/i&h relatedservice otherwise noted. information is located in Chapter 8, unless

34 Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does not move freely in and out of Reverse)

1 Freeplay incorrectly

2 Clutch contaminated adjusted (see Chapter 1). with oil. Remove clutch plate and inspect.

3 Clutch plate warped, distorted or otherwise damaged.

4 Diaphragm spring fatigued. Remove clutch cover/pressure plate assembly and Inspect.

5 Broken. binding or damaged release cable or linkage (models with a cable-operated release system).

6 Leakage of fluid from clutch hydraulic system. Inspect master cylinder, operating cylinder and connecting lines.

7 Air in clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system.

8 Insufficient pedal height. Check and adjust as necessary.

9 Piston seal in operating cylinder deformed or damaged.

IO Lack of grease on pilot bearing.

Troubleshooting

35 Clutch slips (engine speed increases vehicle speed) with no increase in

1 Worn or oil soaked clutch plate.

2 Clutch plate not broken in. It maytake 30 or40 normal starts for a new clutch to seat.

3 Diaphragm spring weak or damaged. Remove clutch cover/pressure plate assembly and inspect.

4 Flywheel warped (Chapter 2).

5 Debris in master cylinder preventing the piston from returning to its normal position.

6 Clutch hydraulic line damaged.

7 Binding in the release mechanism.

41 Noisy in all gears

1 Any of the above causes, and/or:

2 Worn or damaged output gear bearings or shaft.

D-25

2 , Damaged main drive gear bearing.

3 Insufficient transmission

4 Transmission oil (Chapter oil in poor condition.

1).

Drain and fill with proper grade oil.

Check old oil for water and debris (Chapter 1).

5 Noise can be caused by variations in engine torque. Change the idle speed and see if noise disappears.

36 Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged

1 Oil on clutch elate. Remove and inspect. Reoair anv leaks.

2 Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts:They may moveslight- ly when clutch is released. Inspect mounts and bolts.

3 Worn splines on transmission input shaft. Remove clutch components and inspect.

4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove clutch components inspect.

5 Diaphragm,spring sembly and inspect. fatigued. Remove clutch cover/pressure and plate as-

6 Clutch linings hardened or warped.

7 Clutch lining rivets loose.

1 Improper pedal adjustment. Adjust pedal freeplay (Chapter 1).

2 Release bearing binding on transmission shaft. Remove clutch components and check bearing. Remove any burrs or nicks, clean and relubri- cate before reinstallation.

3 Pilot bushing worn or damaged.

4 Clutch rivets loose.

5 Clutch plate cracked.

6 Fatigued clutch plate torsion springs. Replace clutch plate.

Squeal

Squeal or rumble or rumble with with clutch clutch

1 Worn or damaged release bearing. engaged disengaged

(pedal

2 Worn or broken pressure plate diaphragm fingers. released) depressed)

42 Noisy in one particular

43 Slips out of gear

Transmission loose on clutch housing.

Stiff shift lever seal.

Shift linkage’binding.

Broken or loose input gear bearing retainer.

Dirt between clutch lever and engine housing.

Worn linkage.

Damaged or worn check balls, fork rod ball grooves or check springs.

Worn mainshaft or countershaft bearings.

Loose engine mounts (Chapter 2).

Excessive gear end play.

Worn synchronizers.

Worn,

Worn damaged or damaged

Oil leaks or chipped gear synchronizer. gear teeth.

1 Excessive amount of lubricant in transmission (see Chapter 1 for correct checking procedures). Drain lubricant as required.

2 Rear oil seal or speedometer oil seal damaged.

3 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the transmission. Degreasing agents and/orsteam cleaning will achieve this.

With the undersideclean,drive thevehicleatlowspeedsso theairflowwill not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is located.

39, Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged

Binding linkage or release bearing. Inspect linkage or remove clutch components as necessary.

Manual transmission

Note: Al/manual transmission unless otherwise noted. service information is locatedin Chapter 7,

45 Difficulty engaging gears

1 Clutch not releasing completely.

2 Loose or damaged shift linkage. Make a thorough inspection, replacing parts as necessary.

3 Insufficient transmission

4 Transmission oil (Chapter oil in poor condition. i).

Drain and fill with propergrade oil.

Check oil for water and debris (Chapter 1).

5 Worn or damaged striking rod.

6 Sticking or jamming gears.

40 Noisy in Neutral with engine running

1 Input shaft bearing worn.

46 Noise occurs while shifting gears---

1 Check for proper operation of the clutch (Chapter 8).

2 Faulty synchronizer assemblies.

O-26 Troubleshooting

Automatic transmission

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it> di~icult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service. Forproblems other than the following. the vehicle should be taken to a reputable mechanic.

Driveshaft

Note: Refer to Chapter 8, unless otherwise specified, for service information.

47 Fluid leakage

1 Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color, and fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil which can easily be blown by air flow to the transmission.

2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the transmission. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaningwill

With the undersideclean, drivethevehicleat achieve lowspeedssotheairflowwill this. not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is located. Common areas of leakage are:

4

Fluid pan: tighten mounting boltsandforreplacepan gasketas necessary (Chapter 1). Some models have adrain plug; make sure it’s

4

tight.

b)

4

Rear extension: tighten bolts and/or replace oil seal as necessary.

Filler pipe: replace the rubber oil seal where pipe enters transmission case.

Transmission oil lines: tighten fittings where lines enter transmission case and/or replace lines.

e)

Vent pipe: transmission ing procedures, Chapter overfilled

1). and/or water in fluid (see check-

f )

Speedometer connector: replace the O-ring where speedometer cable enters transmission case.

52 Leaks at front of driveshaft

Defective transmission rear seal. See Chapter 7 for replacement ceduye. As this is done, check the splined yoke for burrs or roughness could damage the new seal. Remove burrs with a fine file or whetstone. pro- that

53 Knock or clunk when transmission

(just after transmission

Is under

Is put into gear) initial load

1 Loose or disconnected rear suspension mounting bolts and bushings (Chapters components.

7 and 10).

Check all

2 Loose driveshaft bolts. inspect all bolts and nuts and~tighten them securely.

Inspect the universal 3 Worn or damaged joints (Chapter 8). unwersal joint bearings.

4 Worn sleeve yoke and mainshaft spline.

54 Metallic grating sound consistent with vehicle speed

Pronounced driveshafts. wear in the universal as necessary. joint bearings. Replace U-joints or

48 General shift mechanism problems

Chapter 7 deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transmissions. Common problems which may be caused by out of adjustment linkage are: a) Engine starting in gears other than P (park) or N (Neutral). b) Indicator pointing to a gear other than the one actually engaged. c) Vehicle moves with transmission in P (Park) position.

49 Transmission will not downshift pressed to the floor with the accelerator pedal

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the TV linkage to enable the transmission to downshift properly.

50 Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral

Chapter 7 deals with adjusting the Neutral start switch installed on automatic transmissions.

51 Transmlssion slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward or Reverse gears

I There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should concern himself only with one possibility; fluid level.

2 Before taking the vehicle to a shop, check the fluid level and condition as described in Chapter 1. Add fluid, if necessary, or change the fluid and filter if needed. transmission.

If problems persist, have a professional diagnose the

55 Vibration

Note: Before blaming the driveshaft, make sure the tires areperfectly anced and perform the following test. bal-

1 Install a tachometer inside the vehicle to monitor engine speed as the vehicle is driven. Drive the vehicle and note the engine speed at which the vibration (roughness) IS most pronounced. Now shift the transmission to a different gear and bring the engine speed to the same point.

2 If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed (em) regardless.3 which gear the transmission driveshaft speed varies. is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault since the

3 If the vibration decreases or is eliminated when the transmission is in a different gear at the same engine speed, refer to the following probable causes.

4 Bent or dented driveshaft.

5 Undercoating or built-up

Inspect and replace as necessary. dirt, etc. on the dhveshaft. Clean the shaft thoroughly.

6 Worn universal joint bearings. Replace the U-joints or driveshaft as necessary.

7 Driveshaft and/or companion flange out of balance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove driveshaft and reinstall 180-degrees from original position, then recheck. Have the driveshaft balanced if problem persists.

8 Loose driveshaft mounting bolts/nuts.

9 Defective center bearing, if so equipped.

10 Worn transmission rear bushing (Chapter 7).

56 Scraping noise

Make sure the dust cover on the sleeve yoke isn’t rubbing on the transmission extension housing.

57 Whining or whistling noise

Defective center bearing, if so equipped.

Troubleshooting

64 Difficult shifting

1 Lack of oil.

2 Internal wear, damage or incorrect adjustment.

Q-27

Rear axle and differential

Note: For differential servicing information, refer to Chapter 8, unless otherwise specified.

58 Noise - same when in drive as when vehicle is coasting

1 Road noise. No corrective action available.

2 Tire noise. Inspect tires and check tire pressures (Chapter 1).

3 Front wheel bearings loose, worn or damaged (Chapter 1).

4 Insufficient differential oil (Chapter 1).

5 Defective differential.

65 Noise

1 Lack of oil in transfer case.

2 Noise in 4H and 4L, but not in 2H indicates cause is in the front differ-

Zntial or front axle.

3 Noise in 2H, 4H and 4L indicates cause is in rear differential or rear axle.

4 Noise in 2H and 4H but not in 4L, or in 4Lonly, indicates internal wear or damage in transfer case.

59 Knocking sound when starting or shifting gears

Defective or incorrectly adjusted differential.

Brakes

Note: Before assuming a brake problem exists, make sure the tires are in g~odconditionandinflatedproperly, thefrontendalignmentiscorrectand the vehicle is not loaded with weight inan unequalmanner. Allservicepro- cedures for the brakes are included in Chapter 9, unless otherwise noted.

60 Noise when turning

Defective differential.

61 Vibration

See probable causes under Driveshaft. Proceed under the guidelines listed forthe driveshaft. If the problem persists, checkthe rearwheel bear-

6- ings by raising the rear of the vehicle and spinning the wheels by hand.

Listenforevidenceof rough (noisy) bearings. Remove and inspect (Chap- ter 8).

62 Oil leaks

1 Pinion oil seal damaged (Chapter 8).

2 Axleshaft oil seals damaged (Chapter 8).

3 Differential cover leaking. Tighten mounting bolts or replace the gasket as required.

4 Loose filler or drain plug on differential (Chapter 1).

5. Clogged or damaged breather on differential.

66 Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1 Defective, damaged or oil contaminated brake pad on one side. In- spect as described in Chapter 1. Refer to Chapter 10 if replacement is required.

2 Excessivewear of brake pad material ordiscon one side. Inspect and repair as necessary.

3 Loose or disconnected front suspension tighten all bolts securely (Chapters 1 and IO). components. Inspect and inspectforstuckpis- 4 Defectivecaliperassembly. ton or damage.

5 Scored or out of round rotor.

6 Loose caliper mounting bolts.

Removecaliperand

7 Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment.

67 Noise (high-pitched squeal)

1 Front brake pads worn out. This noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new ones immediately!

2 Glazed or contaminated pads.

3 Dirty or scored rotor.

4 Bent support plate.

Transfer case (4WD models)

Note: Unless otherwise specified, refer to Chapter 7C forservice and repair information.

63 Gear jumping out of mesh

1 Incorrect control lever freeplay.

2 Interference between the control lever and the console.

3 Play or fatigue in the transfer case mounts.

4 Internal wear or incorrect adjustments.

68 Excessive brake pedal travel

1 Partial brake system failure. Inspect,entire system (Chapter 1) and correct as required.

2 Insufficient fluid in master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1) and add fluid bleed system if necessary.

3 Air in system. Bleed system.

4 Excessive lateral rotor play.

Troubleshooting

5 Brakes out of adjustment. justers.

6 Defective proportioning

Check the operation of the automatic valve. Replace valve and bleed system. ad-

69 Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

1 Air in brake lines. Bleed the brake system.

2 Deteriorated rubber brake hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines.

Replace parts as necessary.

3 Master cylinder mounting nuts loose. Inspect master cylinder bolts

(nuts) and tighten them securely.

4 Master cylinder faulty.

5 Incorrect shoe or pad clearance.

6 Defective check valve. Replace valve and bleed system.

7 Clogged reservoir cap vent hole.

8 Deformed rubber brake lines.

9 Soft or swollen caliper seals.

10 Poor quality brake fluid. Bleed entire system and fill with new approved fluid.

5 Brake pads or shoes worn out.

6 Piston cups in master cylinder or caliper assembly deformed. Over- haul master cylinder.

7 Rotor not within speciftcations (Section 72).

8 Parking brake assembly will not release.

9 Clogged brake lines.

10 Wheel bearings out of adjustment

11 Brake pedal height improperly

(Chapter adjusted.

1).

12 Wheel cylinder needs overhaul.

13 Improper shoe to drum clearance. Adjust as necessary.

74 Rear brakes lock up under light brake application

1 Tire pressures too high.

2 Tires excessively worn (Chapter 1).

76 Rear brakes lock up under heavy brake application

70 Excessive effort required to stop vehicle

1 Power brake booster not operating properly.

2 Excessively worn linings or pads. Check and replace if necessary.

3 One or more caliper pistons seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required.

4 Brake pads or linings contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect and replace as required.

5 New pads or linings installed and not yet seated. It’ll take a while for the new material to seat against the rotor or drum.

6 Worn or damaged master cylinder or caliper assemblies. ticularly for frozen pistons.

7 Also see causes listed under Section 69.

Check par-

1 Tire pressures too high.

2 Tires excessively worn (Chapter 1).

3 Front brake pads contaminated place the pads with oil, mud or water.

4 Front brake pads excessively worn.

5 Defective master cylinder or caliper assembly.

Clean or re-

71 Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance

Little or no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking caliper piston(s) or loose, damaged or disconnected brake lines. Inspect entire system and repair as necessary.

Suspension and steering

Note: AN service procedures for the suspension included in Chapter 70, unless otherwise noted. and steering systems are

76 Vehicle pulls to one side

72 Brake pedal pulsates during brake application

1 Wheel bearings damaged, worn or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).

2 Caliper not sliding properly due to improper installation or obstruc- tions. Remove and inspect.

3 Rotor not within specifications. cessive lateral runout and parallelism.

Remove the rotor and check

Have the rotors resurfaced for ex- or replace them with new ones. Also make sure that all rotors are the same thickness.

4 Out of round rear brake drums. Remove the drums and have them turned or replace them with new ones.

1 Tire pressures uneven (Chapter 1).

2 Defective tire (Chapter 1).

3 Excessive wear In suspension or steering components

6 Wheel bearings improperly

7 Wheel lug nuts loose.

(Chapter 1).

4 Wheel alignment incorrect.

5 Front brakes dragging. Inspect as described in Section 73. adjusted (Chapter 1 or 8).

73 Brakes drag (indicated by sluggish engine performance or wheels being very hot after driving)

1 Output rod adjustment incorrect at the brake pedal.

2 Obstructed master cylinder compensator. Disassemble mastercylin- der and clean.

3 Master cylinder piston seized in bore. Overhaul master cylinder.

4 Caliper assembly in need of overhaul.

77 Shimmy, shake or vibration

1 Tire or wheel out of balance or out of round. Have them balanced on the vehicle.

3 Shock absorbers and/or suspension components

Check for worn bushings In the upper and lower links. worn or damaged.

4 Wheel lug nuts loose.

5 Incorrect tire pressures.

6 Excessively worn or damaged tire.

7 Loosely mounted Steering gear housing.

8 Steering gear improperly adjusted.

9 Loose, worn or damaged steering components.

10 Damaged idler arm.

11 Worn balljoint.

78 Excessive pitching or during braking and/or rolling around corners

1 Defective shock absorbers. Replace, as a set.

2 Broken or weak leaf springs and/or suspension

3 Worn or damaged stabilizer bar or bushings. components.

Troubleshootina

83 Steering wheel fails to return to straight-ahead

Incorrect front end alignment.

Tire pressures low.

Steering gears improperly engaged.

Steering column out of alignment.

Worn or damaged balljoint.

Worn or damaged steering linkage.

Improperly lubricated idler arm.

Insufficient oil in steering gear.

Lack of fluid in power steering pump. position

o-29

79 Wandering or general instability

1 Improper tire pressures.

2 Worn or damaged upper and lower link or tension rod bushings.

3 incorrect front end alignment.

4 Worn or damaged steering linkage or suspension

5 Improperly adjusted steering gear.

6 Out of balance wheels.

7 Loose wheel lug nuts.

8 Worn rear shock absorbers.

9 Fatigued or damaged rear leaf springs. components.

84 Steering effort not the same in both directions

(power system)

1 Leaks in steering gear.

2 Clogged fluid passage in steering gear.

85 Noisy power steering pump

1 Insufficient oil in pump.

2 Clogged hoses or oil filter in pump.

3 Loose pulley.

4 Improperly adjusted drivebelt (Chapter 1).

5 Defective pump. 80 Excessively stiff steering

1 Lack of lubricant in power steering fluid reservoir, where appropriate

(Chapter 1).

2 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1).

3 Lack of lubrication at balljoints (Chapter 1).

4 Front end out of alignment.

5 Steering gear out of adjustment

6 improperly adjusted wheel or lacking bearings. lubrication.

7 Worn or damaged steering gear.

8 Interference of steering column with turn signal switch.

9 Low tire pressures.

10 Worn or damaged balljoints.

11 Worn or damaged steering linkage.

12 See also Section 79.

86 Miscellaneous noises

1 ’ Improper tire pressures.

2 Insufficiently lubricated balljoint or steering linkage.

3 Loose or worn steering gear, steering linkage or suspension nents.

4 Defective shock absorber.

5 Defective wheel bearing.

6 Worn or damaged suspension

7 Damaged leaf spring. bushings.

8 Loose wheel lug nuts.

9 Worn or damaged rear axleshaft spfine.

10 Worn or damaged rear shock absorber mounting bushing.

11 Incorrect rear axle end play.

12 See also causes of noises at the rear axle and driveshaft. 81 Excessive play in steering

1 Loose wheel bearings (Chapter 1 or 8).

2 Excessive wear in suspension bushings (Chapter 1).

3 Steering gear improperly

4 Incorrect wheel alignment. adjusted.

5 Steering gear mounting bolts loose.

6 Worn steering linkage.

87 Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area)

1 Incorrect tire pressures.

2 Tires out of balance. Have them balanced on the vehicle.

3 Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary.

4 Suspension or steering components worn (Chapter 1).

82 Lack of power assistance

1 Steering pump drivebelt faulty or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).

2 Fluid level low (Chapter 1).

3 Hoses or pipes restricting the flow. Inspect and replace parts as necessary.

4 Air in power steering system. Bleed system.

5 Defective power steering pump.

88 Excessive tire wear on outside edge

1 Incorrect tire pressure.

2 Excessive speed in turns.

3 Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in).

O-30

89 Excessive tire wear on inside edge

1 Incorrect tire pressure.

2 Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out).

3 Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter 1).

Troubleshooting

90 Tire tread worn in one place

1 Tires out of balance. Have them balanced on the vehicle.

2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace if necessary.

3 Defective tire.

Chapter 2 Part B

2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

Contents

Camshaft - removal, inspection and installation

Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement .....................

..............

Cylinder compression check ...................

Cylinder head - removal and installation

Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement

Engine mounts-check

Engine oil and replacement and oil filter change ...................

....................

.......

...................

See Chapter 2D

See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul -general information

Engine - removal and installation

...........

...............

Exhaust manifold

Flywheel/driveplate

- removal

- removal and installation and installation

.................

...............

See Chapter 2D

General information and engine identification

Hydraulic lash adjusters-removal, inspection

................ and installation ...

Intake manifold - removal and installation ................... 11

Oil pan - removal and installation

Oil pump - removal, inspection

......................... and installation ...............

Rear main oil seal - replacement ..........................

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle .......

Rocker arm assembly - removal, inspection and installation

Spark plug replacement .....................

..... 5

_ .. See Chapter 1

Timing belt, Silent Shaft belt and sprockets - removal,

2 inspection and installation .............................

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating .....

Valve cover - removal

Valves - servicing and installation

............................

......................

See Chapter 2D

Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement

Water pump - removal and installation ............

............. 6

See Chapter 3

Specifications

General

Firingorder.. .........................................

Cylinder numbers (drivebelt end-to-transmission

Displacement

2.OL .................................

2.4L ..............................................

Bore

2.OL

2.4L

...........

..& ..............................

..$? ...............................

Stroke

2.OL .. ..-...._.._..._.....=

2.4L ..............................................

....................... end) .........

. ............

Camshaft

Camshaftendplay ...................

Lobe height (standard)

2.OL (1983and 1984) ..............................

..-. ...............

2.OL(1985)

2.OL(1986on)

...................................

.......................................

2.4L ..............................................

Wearlimit ............................................

Camshaft bearing oil clearance ...........................

, ...

. .....

Cylinder head

Warpagelimit .........................................

Timing belt

Timing belt deflection

Clearance between

................................... timing belt and seal line .................

Oil pump

Clearances

Tip clearance

Drive gear

Driven gear

Side clearance

Drivegear

Drivengear

................

......................................

.......................................

......................................

Pressure relief spring

Freelength .........................................

Load ..............................................

Torque specifications

Valvecoverbolts

Intake/exhaust

................. manifold nuts/bolts

Camshaft sprocket bolt ................... r. ......................

. ....................

.........................

.. ._ ......... l-3-4-2

1-2-3-4

121.9 cubic inches

143.4 cubic inches

3.35 inches

3.41 inches

3.46 inches

3.94 inches

0.0’04 to 0.008 in

1.661 inch

1.657 inch

1.6565 inch

1.6693 inch

0.020 inch

0.002 to 0.0035 inch

0.002 inch

Tension automatically

Approx. 9/l B-inch adjusted

0.0063 to 0.0083 inch

0.0051 to 0.0071 inch

0.0031 to 0.0055 inch

0.0024 to 0.0047 inch

1.834 inch

13.4 lb @ 1.579 inch

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

48 to 60 in-lbs

132 to 168 in-lbs

58 to 72

29-2 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

Camshaft bearing cap bolts

8X25 ..............................................

8X65 ..............................................

Cylinder head bolts

1992 and earlier

Coldengine .......................................

Warmengine..

1993 on

....................................

Step1 ...........................................

Step2 ...........................................

Step3 ...........................................

Step4 ...........................................

Step5 ...........................................

Crankshaft pulley bolts ..................................

Crankshaft pulley center bolt .............................

Engine mounts

Support bracket-to-engine

Front insulator-to-frame

..............................

................................

Front insulator nuts ..................................

Front stopper bolts ...................................

Rear insulator-to-transmission

Rear insulator-to-number

..........................

2 crossmember

Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

Rearstopper

...............................

.............................

.......................................

Frontcasebolts ......................................

Oil filter bracket bolts .................................

Oil pump sprocket nut ..................................

Oil pump cover bolts ...................................

Oilpanbolts

Oilpandrainbolt

.............................

......................................

Oil seal retainer bolts ...................................

FlywheeUdriveplate bolts ................................

Silent Shaft sprocket nut ................................

Automatic tensioner bolt ................................

Timing belt tensioner bolt .....................

Tensioner “B” bolt .......................................

Timingbeltcoverbolts ..................................

..- ..........

_. .........

1 General information and engine identification

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle engine repair procedures for the 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines. Information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part D of this Chapter.

The following repair procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, many of the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will not apply.

The Specifications procedurescontained cations necessary included in this Part. Part D of Chapterecontains for cylinder in this Part of Chapter head and engine block

2 apply rebuilding. only to the the Specifi-

15to19

14toi5

65 to 72

73 to 80

Loosen all bolts 3 turns in sequence

Turn an additional go-degrees

15to21

80 to 94

29 to 36

22 to 29

14to22

72 to 108 in-lbs

14 to 17

108 to 168 in-lbs

14toi8

25 to 40

15to19

11 to 15

36 to 43

132 to 156 in-lbs

48 to 72 in-lbs

26 to 32

84 to 108 in-lbs

94 to 101

25 to 28

14to20

32 to 40 ii to 15

84 to 108 in-lbs

(see illustration 13.10)

2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished the engine from the vehicle.

Clean the engine compartment without removing and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It will make the job easier and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter ii if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

4.3 Carefully disconnect the spark plug wires from the clips gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place.

Exterior engine components, such as the intake.and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan (and the oil pump), the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the engine in place.

Since the camshaft and cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, engine valve component in the vehicle. servicing

Replacement of the timing possible with the engine in the vehicle. can also be accomplished belt and sprockets with the is also

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting equipment, repair or rods and rod bearings fs possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not rec-

Chapter 2 Part 8 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines 2B-3

ommended because of the cleaning and preparation done to the components involved. work that must be

3 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number 1 piston - locating

This procedure is essentially the same as for the 2.6L engine. Refer to Part A, Section 3 and follow the procedure outlined there.

4 Valve cover - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations

1 Disconnect

4.3 and4.5 the negative cable from the battery.

2 Remove the aircleaner assembly (see Chapter 4).

3 Detach the spark plug wires and cable brackets from the valve cover

4.5 Exploded view of the 2.OL valve cover, rocker arms and camshaft

7 Camshaft sprocket

2 Breather hose

3 PCV hose

4 Oil filler cap

5 Oil filler cap seal

6 Valve cover bolt seal

7 Valve cover

8 Gasket

9 Semi-circular seal

10 Camshaft oil seal

11 Rocker arm assembly

12 Hydraulic lash ao’juster

13 Camshaft

(see illustration).

4 Clearly label and then disconnect any emission hoses and cables which connect to or cross over the valve cover.

5 Remove the valve cover bolts (see illustration) and lift the cover off.

If the cover sticks to the cylinder head, tap on it with a soft-face hammer or place a block of wood against the cover and tap on the wood with a hammer.

6 Thoroughly clean the valve cover and remove all traces of old gasket material.

7 Install a new gasket on the cover, using RTV to hold it in place. Place the cover on the engine and install the cover bolts. Note: Be sure to install a newsemi-circularseal(see plyasmallamountofsealantto illustration 4.5) into thecylinderhead. thebottomofthesealand,afterithasbeen

Ap- installed, to the top of the seal, at the seal-to-head joint.

8 Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

The remaining steps are the reverse of removal. When finished, run the engine and check for oil leaks.

28-4 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

5.3 Remove the rocker arm assembly engine shown bolts (arrows) - 2.OL

5 Rocker arm assembly - removal, inspection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 5.3

1 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

2 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center, compression

(see Section 3).

3 Loosen the rocker arm shaft mounting bolts, l/4-turn at a time each, until the spring pressure is relieved (see illustration). Remove the bolts.

4 Lift the rocker arms and shaft assembly, or the individual rocker arms, from the cylinder head. If you’re working on an engine with hydraulic lash adjusters, be sure not to let the adjusters fall out of the rocker arms. Wrap pieces of tape around the ends of the rocker arms to keep the adjusters in place.

Inspection

Refer to illu!;trations 5.5 and 5.6

5 If you wish to disassemble and inspect the rocker arm assemblies (a good idea as long as you have them off), remove the retaining bolts and slip the rocker arms and springs off the shafts (see illustration). Keep the parts in order so you can reassemble them in the same positions.

6 Thoroughly clean the parts and inspect them for wear and damage.

Check the rocker arm faces that contact the camshaft and the adjusting screw tips (see illustration). Replace any parts that are damaged or excessively worn. Also, make sure the oil holes in the shafts are not plugged.

Ins talla tion

Refer to illustrations 5.7, 5.8a, 58b and 5.8~

7 On rocker arms with adjusting screws, loosen the locknuts and back off the adjusters (see illustration) until they only protrude 1 mm

(0.040-inch).

8 Lubricate ail components with assembly lube or engine oil and reassemble the shafts. When installing the rocker arms, shafts and springs, note the markings and the difference between the left and right side parts

(see illustrations). Place the notches in the end of the shaft up (see iiius- tration) and install the bolts through the cap into the shafts to keep them aligned until they are ready to be installed onto the cylinder head.

9 If removed, insert the hydraulic lash adjusters into the rocker arms and wrap tape around the ends of the rocker arms to prevent the adjusters from falling out. Note: New a@usters are primed with diesel oil. To make sure the oil is not spilled from the adjuster while handling, avoid tilting the adjuster as much as possible. If the oil is spilled from the adjuster, bleed the adjuster as described in Section 7.

10 Position the rocker arm assemblies on the cylinder head and install- the mounting bolts finger ttght. Check the markings on the caps to identify the correct journal number and intake/exhaust position, On models with hydraulic lash adjusters, remove the tape from the rocker arms.

11 Tighten the bolts in several stages until the torque listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications is reached. Tighten the bearing caps a little at a time,- starting with the centerjournals and working toward the ends of the camshaft.

12 On adjustable-type rockerarms, adjust thevalveclearances (cold) as described In Chapter 1.

13 Temporarily install the valve cover and run the engine until it is fully warmed up,

14 Readjust the valves whrle the engine is still warm (see Chapter 1).

15 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

16 Run the engine and check for oil leaks and proper operation.

Shaft, left

FRONT

Rocker arms

(in cars for Canada, same rocker arms for both intake and exhaust valves)

Spring, right

Rocker arm for intake valve (cars for U.S.A only)

5.5 Exploded view of the rocker arms and shafts (typical)

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines 2B-5

5.6 Check the contact faces and adjusting screw tips (arrows)

Cap number (none on front and rear)

Timing belt side

C D I c

Rocker shaft right

5.7 On adjustable-type rocker arms, back off the adjusters they only protrude 1 mm (0.040 in) until

Identification mark

“““““,eDlf

For No. 2-4 cylinder

5.8b Exhaust-side positions rocker in illustration arms

5.8a, marked while i - 3 are in the C exhaust rockers marked 2 - 4 are installed in the D positions

5.6a Rocker arms marked A or B belong on the intake side while rockers marked C or D belong on the exhaust side

6.1 Remove the valve guide seal with a pair of pliers

5.6~ On 2.4L engines, align the dimples notches on the bearing cap offset to the

6 Valve springs, retainers and seals-replacement

Refer to illustrations 6.7 and 6.2

Note: The jet valve is mounted directly beside each intake valve. Refer to

Chapter 20 for the jet valve servicing procedure.

This procedure is essentially the same as for the 2.6L engine covered in Chapter 2, Part A. Refer to Part A, Section 6 and follow the procedure outlined there (but also refer to the illustrations accompanying this Sec- tion). t

6.2 Gently tap the seal into place with a hammer and

I deep socket

2B-6 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

Special retaining tool

Lash adjust&

7.1 When performing the freeplay test, make sure the adjuster that is being tested has the corresponding camshaft lobe pointing away from the rocker arm (closed valve)

7.4 The hydraulic lash adjusters are precision units installed in the machined openings in the rocker arms

Qy -

1

BoM

2 Crankshaft pulley

3 Flange bolt

4 Flange bolt

5 Upper front cover

6 Gaskef

7 Lower front cover

8 Access cover

8.8a Timing belt and related components -exploded view

9 Gasket

10 Timing be/t ii Flange bolt

12 Washer

13 Nut

74 Spacer

Tensioner

17 Spacer spring

19 Camshaft sprocket

Bolt

Nut

Oil pump sprocket

Crankshaft sprocket bolt

Washer

Crankshaft sprocket

Spring pin

Flange

) 35

Bolt

Tensioner /3

Silent Shaft belt

Flange bolt

Washer

Silent Shaft sprocket

Spacer

Crankshaft sprocket B

Key

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

8.8b The upper timing belt cover is attached with three bolts

(arrows) (2.OL engine shown)

8.8~ Arrows point to the locations bolts (cover removed for clarity) of the lower timing

(2.OL engine belt cover shown)

8.9 If you plan to reuse the belt, paint an arrow on it to indicate rotation (clockwise) direction of

8.10a Loosen the belt tensioner

(arrow) and pry the tensioner towards bolt the water pump (belt removed for clarity)

8.10b Some engines use an Allen-head bolt (arrow) to retain the tensioner

7 Hydraulic lash adjusters and installation

- removal, inspection

Check

Refer to illustration 7.1 .

1 Check the hydraulic lash adjusters for freeplay by inserting a small wire through the air bleed hole in the rocker arm while lightly pushing the check ball down (see illustration).

2 While lightly holding the check ball down, move the rockerarm down to checkforfreeplay. There should be a small amount upand of movement.

If there is no freeplay, replace the adjuster with a new unit.

Removal

Refer to illustration 7.4

3 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4) and the rocker arm shaft components

4 Remove lustration).

(see Section 5). the hydraulic lash adjuster(s) from the rocker arm(s) (see il-

Note: Besure tolabeleachrockerarmandadjusterandplace them in a partitioned box orsomething mixed up. suitable

5 Installation is the reverse of removal. to keep them from getting

8 Timing belt, Silent Shaft belt and sprockets inspection and installation

- removal,

Caution: Do not try to turn the crankshaft and do not rotate the crankshaft with the camshaftsprocketbolt counterclockwise. Also, don’t turn the crankshaft after the timing belt has been removed.

1 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center (see Section 3).

2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

3 Remove ter 4). the air cleaner assembly and associated hoses (see Chap-

4 Set the parking brake and block the rear wheels. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

5 Remove the power steering pump drivebelt (see Chapter 1) and the air conditioner drivebelt and tensioner (see Chapter 3).

Removal

Refer to illustrations 8.8a, 8.86, 8.8c, 8.9, 8. lOa, 8.106, 8.14 and 8.15

6 Loosen the water pump pulley bolts and remove the remaining drivebelts (see Chapter 1).

7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley (see Chapter 3).

6 Remove the bolts that secure the timing belt upper cover (see illustrations) and lift the cover off. Remove the bolts that secure the lowercov- er (see illustration) and lift it off.

9 If you plan to reuse the timing belt, draw an arrow on it (see iliustra- tion) to indicate the direction of rotation (clockwise).

10 Loosen the adjusting bolt and move the timing belt tensioner towards the water pump as far as possible (see illustrations). the tensioner by tightening the bolt.

Temporarily secure

11 Remove the splash pan from beneath the engine, then remove the large center bolt from the crankshaft pulley. Note: Some models secure the crankshaftpulley with four bolts. It’s very tight - to break it loose, wrap a rag around the pulley and attach a chain wrench. Slip a socket onto the bolt and insert an extension through the hole in the inner fender. Turn the extension with a breaker bar.

25-8. Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

4~ Front Screwdriver.

[8 mm (3 in.) shaft)

8.14 Slip a screwdriver camshaft from turning through

- be sure the sprocket to pad the gasket to prevent damage to the head to prevent surface the

(arrow)

8.15 A screwdriver Is used to keep the Silent Shaft from turning as the oil pump is loosened flmmg mark

(punch on sprocket) i

Trmmg mark

(on cylrnder head)

Abnormal wear (Fluffy canvas frberl

Senaratr

Trmrng mark

(notch m fiangP)

8.20 Carefully inspect the timing belt for the conditions shown here

12 If you are unable to loosen the bolt due to the chain wrench slipping, you can prevent the crankshaft from turning by havtng an assistant wedge a flat-blade screwdriver in the flywheel/driveplate this, you must first remove the flywheel/driveplate transaxle removal procedures in Chapter 7). ring gear teeth. cover (described

To do in the

13 Make sure the tensioner bolts are loose and slip the timing belt off the sprockets and set rt aside.

14 If you intend to remove the camshaft, unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and slide the sprocket off-a large screwdriver inserted through a hole in the sprocket will keep it from turning while you remove the bolt (see illustration). Also, remove the oil pump sprocket at this time and inspect the oil pump seal for leaks or apparent damage.

15 Remove the plug at the left side of the cylinder block and insert a screwdriver or a long punch to hold the Silent Shaft stationary (see illustration). The screwdriver or punch should have an approximate diameter of 5/16-inch and a length of 2 3/8-inches.

16 Loosen the bolt that retains the Silent Shaft sprocket.

17 Loosen the Silent Shaft belt tensioner (see illustration move the Silent Shaft belt (timing belt 8). Caution:

8.8b) and re-

Donotattempttoloos- en the sprocket bolt by holding the sprocket stationary with pliers.

18 If you intend to replace the crankshaft front oil seal, slrde off the crankshaft sprocket and the belt guide flange (if equipped) located behind the crankshaft sprocket. When removing the flange, note the way it’s installed

(the chamfered side faces out). lnspec tion

Refer to illustration 8.20

19 Rotate the tensioner pulley by hand and move It side-to-stde to detect roughness and excess play. Visually inspect the sprockets for any signs of

8.22 Camshaft and crankshaft

Tlmlng mark

(notch in sprocket) sprocket alignment marks damage and wear. Replace parts as necessary.

20 Inspect oil contamrnation condition. the timrng belt for cracks,

(see illustration). separation, wear,mtssing teeth and

Replace the belt if it’s in questionable lnstalla tion

Refer to illustrations 8.22, 8.23, 8.24, 8.25a, &?.25b, 8.29 and 8.30

21 Reinstall the timing belt sprockets, if they were removed. Note that the camshaft sprocket is indexed by punch marks. Slip the belt guide flange onto the crankshaft before Installing the lower sprocket-the chamfered side of the flange faces out.

22 pump

Align the timtng sprockets marks located on the camshaft, crankshaft and oii with the marks on the cylinder head and the front case

(see illustration). Note: Different engines have different types of alignment marks. Some alignmenf marks are notches or raised arrows and some-are punch mdentatrons. /dent& the exact type and location of the alignment marks on each sprocket before contim@ the proced&e.

When aligning the oilpump sprocket marks, it is critical that the silent shaft

(if equipped) has the werghtedportion af the bottom of fhe shaft (it is possi- b/e to align the marks wrth the Silent Shaft weight at the top; if you do this accidentally severe engme vibration will result). Before installing the timing belt, slightly rock the od pump sprocket by hand and watch carefully that the sprocket has the tendency to remain stationary(return to apprti%i- mate/y the marks-aligned position) when the sprocket is rotated. This means the sprocket 1s CORRECTLY cy to rotate clockwIse when spun timed.

Irghtly,

If thg sprocket the shaft has the tenden- is /NCORREC7?7 timed. If there is any doubt about whether or not the silent shaft is in the correctposliion, Insert a screwdriver through the ho/e in the left side ofthe

TIMING MARK

(slot in front case)

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

TIMING MARK

(on sprocket)

TIMING MARK

(on front case)

28-9

TENSIONER PULLEY GENTE

(notch in sprocket)

8.23 Align the marks as shown before installing timing belt B

8.24 Make sure the tension side of the belt is drawn tight when initially installing the timing belt - also, the tensioner pulley must be positioned as shown oa53tt

8.2513 Press on the center of the belt to check tension 8.25a Rotate the tensioner clockwise to the belt and up to apply tension

8.29 Since you must view the camshaft sprocket marks at an angle, it may help to use a pointer to avoid mistakes cy/inderb/ock(see approximately illustration two inches

8.15). into the hole and also make sure cannot be rotated with the screwdriver

Make sure the screwdriverextends in place; the sprocket now you can be sure the timing is correct.

23 install timing belt B. Align the timing marks on each sprocket with the timing marks on the front case (see illustration).

24 After installing timing belt B, make sure the tension side has no slack

(see illustration).

25 Make sure the tensioner sprocket for timing belt 6 has the center located just to the left side of the mounting bolt with the pulley directed to the front of the engine (see illustration 8.24). Lift the tensioner up with one fingerto tighten the belt (see illustration) and tighten the tensioner bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Note: Use the index fin- gerandpress fimty on the timing be/t(see illustration). The belt deflection should be 1364 to 9/32-inch (5.0 to 7.0 mm).

26 Slip the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket. While maintaining tension on the rear (firewall) side of the belt, slip the belt onto the camshaft sprocket.

27 Release the tensioner hold-down bolt to apply spring tension against the belt. Retighten the bolt.

28 Install the crankshaft pulley, taking care to align the locating pin with the small hole in the pulley (if equipped). Install the crankshaft pulley bolts

(both the pulley securing bolts and the center bolt) and tighten them to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. When tightening the bolts, hold the crankshaft

11 and 12. in place using one of the methods discussed in Steps

29 Using the bolt in the center of the crankshaft shaft clockwise through sixcomplete revolutions. pulley, turn the crank-

Note: The camshaft, crankshaftand right Silent Shaftsprocketmarks lutions of the crankshaft; however, since willalign the left (oilpump) every two revo- sprocket turns at2/3crankshaftspeed, itsmarks willonlyatigneverysixcrankshaft revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the timing marks (see illustration). If the marks do not align properly, loosen the tensioner; slip the belt off the camshaft sprocket, align the marks, reinstall the belt, and check the alignment marks again.

2B-10 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

30 if it is too tight or too loose, loosen the tensioner bolts and adjust the tensioner. Squeeze the timing belt and the cover (see i~&~tration), and measure the distance between the timing belt and Line C. The distance should be approximately 9/16-inch.

31 Tighten the tensioner bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Speci- fications, starting with the adjustment bolt; then tighten the bolt which goes through the tension spring.

32 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Note that the timing belt cover bolts come in different lengths.

33 Start the engine, set the ignition timing (see Chapter 1) and road test the vehicle.

8.30 Squeeze thetiming belt and case and observe the distance between the belt and Line C to measure the belt deflection

9.2 Carefully pry the seal out with a small screwdriver

9 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustration 9.2

1 Removethetimingbelt,SilentShaftbeRandthecrankshaftsprockets

(see Section 8).

2 Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver with tape. Working from below the left inner fender, use the screwdriver to pry the seal out of its bore (sea fliustratlon). Take care to prevent damaging the crankshaft and the seal bore.

3 Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft. Minor imperfections can be removed with emery cloth. If there is a groove worn in the crankshaft sealing surface (from contactwfth the seal), installing a new seal will probably not stop the leak. Such wear normally indicates the internal engine components are also worn. Consfd er overhauling the engine.

4 Lubricate the new seal with engine oil and drive the seal into place with a hammer and socket.

5 Reinstall the sprockets, the timing belt, the Silent Shaft belt and related components as described in Section 8.

6 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

10.12 Measure the camshaft lobe heights

10.13 Measure the camshaft journal diameters

10 Camshaft - removal, inspection and instafiation

Removal

1

Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center (see Section 3).

2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

3 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

4 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5).

5 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1) and disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

6 Remove the fuel pump (carbureted models only) (see Chapter 4).

7 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket (see Section 8).

8 Detach the rocker arm assembly (see Section 5).

9 Lift the camshaft from the cylinder head (see illustration 4.5).

Inspection

RBfer to illustrations 70.12, IO. 13 and 10.15

10 Thoroughly clean the camshaft and the gasket surfaces.

11 Visually inspect the camshaft for wear and/or damage to the distributor drive gear, lobe surfaces, bearing journals and seal contact surfaces.

Visually inspect the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head for scoring and other damage.

12 Measure the camshaft lobe heights (see illustration) and compare them to this Chapter’s Specifications.

13 Measure the camshaft bearing journal diameters (see illustration), then measure the inside diameter of the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head, using a telescoping gauge (you’ll have to reinstall the camshaft bearing caps). Subtract the journal measurement from the bean’ng measurement to obtain the camshaft bearing oil clearance. Compare this clearance with this Chapter’s Specifications.

14 Replace the camshaft if it fails any of the above inspections. Note: If the distributor drive gear is faulty, replace the driven gear also. If the lobes are worn, replace the rocker arms along with the camshaft. Cylinder head replacement may be necessary if the camshaft bearing surfaces in fhe head are damaged or excessively worn.

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

10.15 To measure camshaft endplay, set up a dial indicator with the plunger of the indicator in line with the camshaft, as shown - gently pry the camshaft all the way to the rear, zero the indicator, then pry the camshaft all the way to the front-the reading on the indicator Is the endplay measurement

15 Remove the rocker arms and shafts from the camshaft bearing caps

(see Section 5). Temporarily install the bearing caps, in their proper positions, and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions. Usingadialindicator,checkthecamshaftendplay(seeillustration) and compare it to this Chapter’s Specifications.

16 If the endplay is excessive, replace the camshaft and/or the cylinder head.

Ins talla tion

17 Liberally coat the journals and thrust portions of the camshaftwith sembly lube or engine oil.

18 Carefully install the camshaft in the cylinder head. as-

Caution: If the camshaft was notproperly marked before removal, installit with the lobes facing DOWN or away from the rocker arms. This will set the engine at

TDC number 1 (provided the crankshaft hasn’t been rotatedsince Step 1).

19 Coat a new camshaft oil seal with engine oil and press it into place with a hammer and a deep socket.

20 Assemble and install the rocker arm assembly, tightening the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (see Section 5).

21 Install the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

22 Install the timing belt (see Section 8).

11.4 Carefully label the wires and hoses to aid in reassembly

23 Temporarily

Chapter 1). set the valve clearances

Note: Latermodels prior to engine start-up (see use hydrauliclashadjusters on theintake and exhaust valves but the jet valve must still be adjusted manually.

24 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

25 Starttheengine

(see Chapter 1). and allow ittowarm up, then adjustthe ignition timing

26 Readjust the valve clearancesas described in Chapter 1.

27 Reinstall the valve cover and run the engine while checking for oil leaks.

11 Intake manifold - removal and installation

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4) then disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

Removal

Carbureted models

Refer to illustrations 11.4 and 11.8

3 Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 4).

4 Clearly label

’

(see illustration) and disconnect all hoses, wires, brackets and emission lines which run to the carburetor and intake manifold. Several components may be slipped out of brackets and laid overthe carburetor (see illustration).

11.8 Exploded view of the intake manifold and components on a carbureted engine

I Air cleaner

2 Carburetor

3 Thermostat housing

4 Gasket

5 Thermostat

IO Breather hose

14 Heater hose clamp

15 Heater hose

17 Brake booster vacuum line

20 Water hose

Vacuum

Intake connector manifold hose

24 Intake manifold gasket

28-12 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

*CT+’

'27

11 .15 Exploded view of the intake manifold and components on a fuel-injected engine

Fuel high pressure hose connection

Fuel injector harness

Delivery pipe

Heater hose

Electrical connectors

Thermostat housing

Gasket

Thermostat

Distributor

Air intake plenum bracket intake manifold bracket

Intake manifold

Intake manifold gasket

Therm0 switch (automatic transmission models only)

Coolant temperature sensor

Coolant temperature gauge unit

Coolant temperature

(air-conditioned switch models)

I

5 Disconnect the fuel lines from the carburetor prevent leakage (see Chapter 4).

(automatic transmission and cap the fittings

6 Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor (see Chapter 4).

7 Detach the cable which runs from the carburetor to the transmission to models only) and the cruise control cable, on vehicles so equipped.

8 Unbolt the intake manifold and remove it from the engine (see illustration). If it sticks, tap the manifold with a soft-face hammer. Caution: Do not pry between gasket sealing surfaces or tap on the carburetor.

Fuel-injected models

Refer to illustration 11.15

9 Remove the air intake hose (see Chapter 4).

IO Clearly label and disconnect ail hoses, wires, brackets and emission lines which run to the fuel injection system. and intake manifold.

11 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5) and the accelerator cable(s)

(see Chapter 4).

12 Remove the bolts that retain the air intake plenum to the intake manifold (see Chapter 4). Remove the plenum.

13 Remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold then remove the fuel rail (see Chapter 4).

14 Raise the vehicle and support It securely on jackstands.

15 Remove the bolts that retain the lower intake manifold bracket to the engine (see illustration).

16 Unbolt the intake manifold and remove it from the engine. If it sticks, tap the manifold with a soft-face hammer or carefully pry it from the head.

Caution: Do not pry between gasket sealing surfaces.

Installation

17 Thoroughly clean the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces, re-

12.3 Working under the vehicle, apply penetrating oil to the threads and remove the nuts (arrows) - note that one is hidden from view moving all traces of gasket material.

18 Install the manifold, using a new gasket. Tighten the nuts in several stages, working from the center out, until the torque listed in this Chapfer’s

Specifications is reached.

19 Reinstall the remaining parts In the reverse order of removal.

20 Add coolant, run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines 2B-13

12.7 Remove the bolts from the heat shield (arrows) (2.OL engine shown)

12 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation

Warning: Allowthe engine to cuolcompletelybefore dure. beginning thisproce-

Removal defer to illustrations

1 Disconnect

12.3, 12.7 and 12.8 the negative cable from the battery.

2 Set the parking brake and block the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Working from under the vehicle, remove the nuts that secure the ex- haustsystem to the bottom of the exhaust manifold (see illustration). Ap- ply penetrating

4 On carbureted oil to the threads to make removal easier. engines, remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chap- ter 4).

5 Unplug the oxygen sensor wire (see chapter 6).

6 If equipped with an secondary air system, apply penetrating oil and

%izFzz~ ~. z.~.-- ~ .- L.-L-

12.8 Remove the exhaust manifold mounting nuts (arrows) (2.OL engine shown) unscrew the flare nuts on the air injection tube. Remove the tube from the manifold.

7 Remove the three bolts that secure the heat shield (see illustration) to the exhaust manifold. Lift the heat shield off.

8 Apply penetrating mounting nuts oil to the threads and remove the exhaust manifold

(see illustration), brackets and emission components.

9 Slip the manifold off the studs and remove it from the engine compart- meht.

Ins talla tion

Refer to illustration 12.8

IO Clean and inspect all threaded fasteners and repair as necessary.

11 Remove any traces of gasket material from the mating surfaces and inspect them for wear and cracks.

12 Place a new gasket over the studs (see illustration), install the manifold and tighten the nuts in several stages, working from the center out, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

12.12 Exhaust manifold mounting details

1 Heat shield

2 Gasket

3 Oxygensensor

4 Exhaust manifold

5 Exhaust manifold gasket

28-14 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

FRONT + intake

(----I m,-

Exhaust

13.10 Cylinder head bolt LOOSENING g sequence

13 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

14 Run the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

13 Cylinder head - removal and installation

Caution: Allow the engine to coo/comp/ete/y dure. before following thisproce-

Removal

Refer to illustrations 13.10, 13.17 and 13.12

1 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) (see Sec- tion 3).

2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

3 Drain the cooling system and remove the spark plugs (see Chapter

1).

4 Remove the intake manifold (see Section 11).

5 Remove the exhaust manifold (see Section 12).

6 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5), including the cap and wires.

7 On carbureted models, remove the fuel pump (see Chapter 4,).

8 Remove the timing belt (see Section 8). Note: On some mode/s it is possible to remove the cylinder head without removing the timing belt.

Hang the sprocket with a piece of wire attached to the hood of the vehicle - make sure the belt does not lose tension after the camshaft sprocket has been detached from the camshaft.

9 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

10 Using an 8 mm Allen head socket, loosen the cylinder head bolts,

1 M-turn at a trme, in the sequence shown (see illustration) until they can be removed by hand.

11 Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up and place it on wood blocks to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces. If the head sticks to the engine block, dislodge it by placing a block of wood against the head casting and tapping the wood with a hammer or by prying the headwith a prybarplaced carefully on a casting protrusion (see illustration). Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures are covered in Chapter 2, Part D. It’s a good idea to have the head checked for warpage, even if-you’re just replacing the gasket.

12 Remove all traces of old gasket material from the block and head (see illustration). Do not allow anything to fall into the engine. Clean and inspect all threaded fasteners and be sure the threaded holes in the block are clean and dry.

Ins talla tion

Refer to illustrations 13.13 and 73.14

13 Place a new gasket and the cylinder head in position. Note: Positi the identification mark facing up and at the front of the engine block (see illustration).

14 The cylinder head bolts should be tightened in several stages follow: ing the proper sequence (see illustration) to the torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications.

15 Reinstall the timing belt (see Section 8).

16 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order’of removal.

17 Be sure to refill the cooling system and check all fluid levels. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise slowly by hand through two complete revoiu-

’ tions. Recheck the camshaft timing marks (see Section 8).

18 Start the engine and set the ignition timing (see Chapter I): Run the engine until normal operatmg temperature is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation. Shut off the engine. Remove the valve cover and retighten the cylinder head bolts, unless the gasket manufacturer wise. Recheck the valve adjustment if the engine states is not equipped other- with hydraulic lash adjusters.

14 Oil pan - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 14.7

Removal

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Remove the splash pan under the engine, then remove the dipstick and drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

IDENTIFICATION

MARK 1

13.11 Pry on an area of the cylinder head that won’t be damaged when pressure is applied

13.12 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket

13.13 The identification face up and be positioned camshaft sprocket mark should next to the

Chapter 2 Part B 2.QL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

Timing belt side I)

20-15

13.14 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING sequence 14.7 If the oil pan was sealed with RTV sealant only, apply

RTV sealant In the groove and to the Inside of the bolt holes

15.4 Exploded view of the oil pump and related components

Oil pressure switch

Oil filter

Oil filter bracket

Relief plunger

5 Relief spring

6 Gasket

7 Relief plug

8 Plug cap

9 Bolt

IO O-ring

11 Silent Shaft oil seal

,12 Crankshaft front oil seal

13 Gasket

14 Oil seal

15 Front case

16 Oil pump drive gear 1

I 7 Oil pump driven gear

18 Oil pump cover

19 Gasket

20 Right Silent Shaft

21 Leti Silent Shaft

22 Silent Shaft front bearing

23 Right Silent Shaft rear bearing

24 Left Silent Shaft rear bearing

4 Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (see tion 12.3). illustra-

5 Remove the bolts and lower the oil pan from the vehicle. If the pan is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer or place a block of wood against the pan and tap the wood with a hammer. Note: If necessary, for additional clearance for the oilpan, remove the engine mounts andraise the engine a few inches.

6 Thoroughly clean the oil pan and sealing surfaces. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Check the oil pan sealing surface for distortion.

Straighten or replace as necessary.

Installation

7 If the oil pan was sealed with RTV sealant only (no gasket), apply a 4 mm bead of RN sealant to the oil pan flange (see illustration), If you are using a gasket, apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the oil pan flange and affix the gasket.

8 Place the oil pan into position and install the bolts fingertight. Working side-to-side from the center out, tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications.

9 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

10 Refill the crankcase with the proper quantity and grade of oil (see

Chapter 1) and run the engine, checking for leaks. Road test the vehicle and check for leaks again.

15 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 15.4

1 Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket (see Section 8).

2 Remove the oil pan (see Section 14). ,

28-16 Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

15.10a Measure the driven gear-to-tip clearance l&lob Measure the drive gear-to-tip clearance

MATING MARK

75.10~ Measure the side clearance straightedge and feeler

(endplay) gauge using a 15.10d Install the gears with the marks aligned and facing out

3 Unbolt the oil pickup tube (screen) from the bottom of the pump housing.

4 Remove the pressure relief plug, spring and plunger (see illustration).

5 Remove the timing belt tensioner (see Section 8).

6 Remove the oil pump-to-block bolts noting the different lengths and locations of the bolts. Carefully separate the front case from the engine.

7 Detach the cover from the rear of the case (see illustration 15.4) and remove the inner and outer oil pump gears.

8 Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the front case (see Section 9).

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 15. IOa, 15. lob, 15. IOc and 15. f Od

9 Clean all parts thoroughly and remove all traces of old gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Visually inspect all parts for wear, cracks and other damage. Replace parts as necessary.

10 Install the oil pump outer and innergears and measure the clearances

(see illustrations).

Chapter’s Specifications.

Compare the clearances

Measure to the values the free length listed in this of the pressure relief spring and compare the measurement to this Chapter’s Specifications.

Replace parts as necessary. Pack the pump cavity with petroleum jelly and install the cover. Xghten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. the correctplace

Note: Be sure to install the gears

(see illustration). with the mating marks in

Installation

Ii Install a new crankshaft front oil seal (see Section 9).

12 Install the pressure relief valve components and tighten the plug securely.

13 Using a new gasket, posftion the pump on the engine. Install the bolts in their proper locations, according to length. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

14 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

15 Add oil, start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks.

16 FlywheeUdriveplate - removal and installation

Thisprocedure isessentiallythesameforallengines. RefertoChapter

2 Part A, Section 17, and follow the procedure outlined there.

17 Rear main oil seal - replacement

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Chapter

2 Part A, Section 18, and follow the procedure outlined there.

18 Engine mounts - check and replacement

1 Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear.

Check

2 During the check, the engine must be raised slightly to remove the weight from the mounts.

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines 26-17

I Front insulator

2 Insulator stopper

18.8a Engine mount details (typical 2WD model)

3 Heat protector

4 Number 2 crossmember

5 Rear insulator

Front insulator

Insulator stopper

Heatprotector

18.8b Engine mount details on a 4WD pick-up

4 Number 2 crossmember

5 Heat protector

6 Rear insulator

Stopper

Transfer mounting bracket

Transfer support insulator

3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts. Warning: DO NOTplace anypatiofyour body under the engine when it’s supported only by a jack!

4 Checkthe mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal backing. Sometimes the rubber will split right down

I.1

Plate assembly

Transfer support bracket the center. Check that the rod on the front mount is not bent.

5 Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners.

6 Rubber preservati.ve may be applied to the mounts to slow deterioration.

28-18

..-- -.

Chapter 2 Part B 2.OL and 2.4L four-cylinder engines

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 18.8a. 18.8b and 18.8~

7 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands (if not already done).

8 Remove the fasteners and detach the mount from the frame and engine (see illustrations). Do not disconnect more than one mount at a time, except during engine removal.

9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking.compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.

18.8~ Be sure to align the locating boss and hole in the engine mount,

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

Contents

Camshaft

Compression

Crankshaft

- removal, check inspection oil plug - replacement

........................ and installation front oil seal - replacement

.........................

.....................

.............. 13

:. See Chapter 2D

Cylinder head - removal and.installation

Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement

Engine mounts-check,

Engine oil and filter change

Engine overhaul -general replacement

........ information

....................

-)r .............

...........

....... and asustment

See Chapter 1

......... 19

See Chapter 1

See Chapter 2D

Engine - removal and installation ...............

Exhaust manifold - removal and installation

Flywheel/driveplate

General information

- removal and installation

..............................

Intake manifold - removal and installation

.................

...............

See Chapter 2D

_ .....

................... 7

Oil pan - removal and installation

Oil pump - removal,

Rear main oil seal - replacement

Repair operations inspection possible

......................... and installation

.......................... with the engine

............... in the vehicle .......

Rocker arm assembly

Silent shafts chain/sprockets

- removal, inspection and installation

- removal, inspection and installation ......................................

Spark plug replacement ........................

..... 5

See Chapter 1

Timing chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and installation .......... _ ............................

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston -locating

Valve cover - removal and installation ......................

Valves - servicing See Chapter 2D Valve spring, retainer and seals - replacement ........................

.......

Specifications

General

Firingqrder ....... .._......._

Cylinder numbers (front-to-rear)

.........................

..........................

Bore ................................................

Stroke ......... .._ ...................................

Displacement .........................................

Camshaft

Endplay .. ..: ........................................

Runout ..............................................

Joumaldiameter.. .............................

Bearing journal oil clearance ................................

Lobe height

1963 through 1966 pick-up ............................

1963 and 1964 Wlontero .............................

1967 pick-up and 1965 through 1967 Montero

1966 on (all models) ..................................

Lobe wear (maximum), ...................................

Cylinder head warpage limit .......................

. ..........

............. intake/exhaust manifold warpage limit ...........

Oil pump ,

Drive gear-to-bearing clearance

1963through1966

19670n

..................................

...........................................

. . l-3-4-2 l-2-3-4

3.59 inches

3.66 inches

155.9 cubic inches

0.004 to 0.006 inch

0.03 inch

1.339 inches

0.002 to 0.004 inch

1.6730 inch

1.6693 inch

1.6705 inch

0.020 inch

0.006 inch

0.006 inch per foot of manifold length

Cylinder location and distributor rotation

0.0016 to 0.0026 inch

0.0020 to 0.0043 inch

2A-2

Oil pump (continued)

Driven gear-to-bearing clearance

1983 through 1988 . . . .

19870n ._.._.._......,,,

Drive gear-to-housing clearance clearance Driven gear-to-housing

Drive gear endplay

Driven gear endplay .

Relief spring free length

1983 through

19870n

1986 .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

. 1

. .

. . . .

. . .

. . . .

0.0008 to 0.0020 inch

0.0016 to 0.0039 inch

0.0043 to 0.0059 inch

0.0043 to~O.lJO59 inch

0.0020 to U.DO43 inch

0.0016 to 0.0039 inch

1.85 inch

1.835 inch

Torque specifications

Camshaft bearing cap bolts

. .

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated}

Long (70 mm bolts) ...........................

Short (25 mm bolts). ..........................

Valve cover bolts/nuts ..........................

Silent shaft chain guides (see illustration

Chain guide A bolts ..........................

9.8)

60 in-lbs

. . . . 156 in-lbs

Chain guide B bolts

BoltA ...................................

Bolt6 ...................................

Chain guide C bolts

..........................

Timing chain guides bolts .......................

. . .

1 1

Exhaust manifold shield .........................

Engine mount - pick-up (see illustration 19.4a)

Insulator nuts ............................

Rear mount-to-crossmember bolts ...............

Engine mount - Montero (see illustration 19.4b)

Stopperbolts ...............................

Insulator nuts ...............................

. ..

. , I . ,

. .

Camshaft sprocket bolt ......................... 40

Crankshaft sprocket bolt ........................

Cylinder head bolts

- (use the tightening sequence shown in Section 14)

-First step (engine cold) :. 34

. 69 Second step (engine cold)

Third step (engine hot)

Cylinder head bolt (M8)

Driveplate-to-crankshaft

Flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts bolts

, I

12 in-lbs

156 in-lbs

132 in-lbs

Intake manifold bolts . . .

Exhaust manifold nuts .

Silent shaft sprocket bolt . . .

Oil pan-to-engine block fasteners

Oil pick-up tube bolts

Oil pump sprocket bolt .

Oil pump mounting bolts . .

. .

Oil pump cover bolts .

Oil pump driven gear bolt .

Rear main oil seal housing bolts

Timing chain cover bolts . . .

60 in-lbs

96 in-lbs

105 in-lbs

120 in-lbs

1 General information

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle repair procedures the 2.6L timing chain engines, All information concerning engine removaf for and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part D of this Chapter.

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedurescontained in this Par-t. PartD of Chapter2contains the Specifi- cations necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.

The 2.6L engine is an inline vertical four, with a chain-driven overhead camshaft and a silent shaft counterbalancing system which cancels the engine’s power pulses and produces

The crankshaft rides in five renewable relatively insert-type vibration-free main bearings, operation. with the center bearing (the thrust bearing) assigned the additional task of controlling crankshaft endplay.

The pistons have two compression rings and one oil control ring. The semi-floating piston pins are press fitted into the small end of the conned- ing rod. The connecting rod big ends are also equipped with renewable insert-type plain bearings.

The engine is liquid-cooled, utilizing a centrifugal impeller-type pump, driven by a belt from the camshaft, to circulate coolant around the cy%i- ders and combustion chambers and through the,intake manifold.

Lubrication is handled by a gear-type oil pump mounted on the front of the engine under the timing chain cover. It is driven by the silent shaft- chain. The oil is filtered continuously by a cartridge-type filter mounted on the radiator side of the engine.

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine 2A-3

3.6 Mark the distributor housing directly beneath the number one spark plug wire terminal (double check the distributor cap to verify the rotor points to the number 1 cylinder spark plug wire)

3.8 Align the notch in the pulley with the 0 on the timing plate, then check to see if the distributor rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder (if not, the camshaft is 180.degrees out of time [number 4 is at TDC] -the crankshaft will have to be rotated 360-degrees)

2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished the engine from the vehicle.

Clean the engine compartment without removing and the exterior of the engine with sometypeofdegreaserbeforeanyworkisdone. [twill makethejobeasier and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread work. or blanket will also

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place.

Exterior engine componenfs, such as the intake and exhahst manifolds, the oil pan, the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system components the engine in place. can be removed for repair with

Since the cylinder head can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be accomplished the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing chain and sprockets with is also possible with the engine in the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary

’ replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting equipment, repair or rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved.

3 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating

Refer to illustrations 3.6 and 3.8

Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption that the spark plug wires and distributor are correctly installed. lfyoo are frying to locate

TDC to install fhe distributor correctly by feeling for compression at the number piston position one sparkplug must be determined hole, then aligning the ignition timing marks as described in Step 8.

1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down when the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke.

2 Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an essential part of many proce- duressuch ascamshaftand timing chain/sprocket removal and distributor removal.

3 Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission in

Neutral and apply the parking brake or block the rear wheels. Also, disable the ignition system by detaching the coil wire from the center terminal of the distributor cap and grounding it on the block with a jumper wire. Re- move the spark plugs (see Chapter 1).

S4 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using one of the methods outlined below. When looking at the front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise. a) The preferred method is to turn the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft. b) A remote starter switch, which may save some time’, can also be used. Fotlow the instructions included with the switch. Once the piston is close to TDC, use a socket and ratchet as described in the previous paragraph. c) If an assistant is available to turn the ignition switch to the Start position in short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC without a remote starter switch. Make sure your assistant is out of the vehicle, away from the ignition switch, then use a socket and ratchet as described in Paragraph a) to complete the procedure.

5 Notetheposition offheterminalforthe numberonesparkplug thedistributorcap. Iftheterminalisn’tmarked,followtheplug wireon wirefrom the number one cylinder spark plug to the cap.

6 Mark the distributor body directly under the terminal (see illustration).

7 Detach the cap from the distributor and set it aside (see Chapter 1 if necessary).

8 Locate the timing marks on the front cover. You’ll see the timing increments directly above the front pulley. Turn the crankshaft (see Paragraph

3 above) until the TDC mark (zero) on the front cover is aligned with the groove in the front pulley (see illustration).

9 Look at the distributor rotor-it should be pointing directly at the mark you made on the distributor body. If the rotor is pointing at the mark, go to

Step 12. If it isn’t, go to Step IO.

10 If the rotor is 180-degrees exhaust stroke. off, the number one piston is at TDC on the

11 To get the piston to TDC on the compression’stroke, shaft one complete turn (360-degrees) clockwise. turn the crank-

The rotor should now be pointing at the mark on the distributor. When the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap and the ignition timing marks are aligned, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.

2A-4 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

4.7b Remove the two bolts (arrows) from the valve cover and lift the cover off the engine

4.7a An exploded view of the valve cover and related components

I Breather hose

2 Fitting

3 Oilseal

4 PCVhose

5 PCV valve

6 Oil filter cap

7 Oil filter cap seal

Valve cover

Valve cover gasket

IO Rocker arm assembly

1 I Hydraulic lash adjuster

12 Camshaft

Semi-circular

Camshaftplug plug

4 Valve cover - removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 4.7a and 4.7b

1 Detach the cable from the negatrve battery terminal.

2 Remove the air cleaner inlet hose and housing assembly from the carburetor and the top of the valve cover (see Chapter 4).

3 Remove the distributor cap and wires from the cylinder head (see

Chapter 1). Be sure to mark each wrre for correct installation.

4 Remove any fuel lines or vent lines from the carburetor that will interfere with the removal of the valve cover.

5 Disconnect any electrical connections terfere with the removal of the valve cover. or fuel filter from the carburetor that will in-

6 Wipe off the valve cover thoroughly to prevent debris fromfalling onto the exposed cylinder head or camshaft/valve train assembly.

7 Remove the valve cover bolts (see illustrations).

8 Carefully lift off the valve cover and gasket. If thegasket is stuck to the. cylinder head, tap it with a rubber mallet to break the seaLDo not pry between the cover and cylinder head or you’ll damage the gasket mating surfaces.

Ins taila tion

Refer to illustrations 4.11

9 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material from the gasket mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the valve cover. Clean. the surfaces with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

10 Be sure to install the semi-circular seal (camshaft plug) on top of the cylinder head near the camshaft sprocket. Apply beads of RTV sealant to the points where the seal meets the valve cover mating surfaces

11 Install a new gasket onto the valve cover. Install the molded rubber 1 gasket onto the cover by pushing the new gasket into the slot that circles . the valve cover perimeter. Apply beads of RTV sealant where the cylinder head and camshaft bearing cap meet (see illustration). Wait five minutes or so and let the RTV “set-up” (slightly harden) and then install the cover and bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions.

12 The remainder of installation is the reversecf removal.

12 After the number one piston has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining pistons can be located by turning the crankshaft and following the firing order. Mark the remaining spark plug wire terminal locations on the distributor body just like you did for the number one terminal, then number the marks to correspond with the cylinder numbers. As you turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also turn.

When it’s pointing directly at one of the marks on the distributor, the piston for that particular cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.

5 Rocker arm assembly - removal, inspection and installation

Note 1: The camshaft bearing caps are removed together with the rocker arm assembly. Toprevent the opposite end (transmission end) of the camshaft from popping up (from taming-chain tension) after the assembly is removed, have an assrstant ho/d the opposite errd of the camshaft down,

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine 2A-5

4.11 Apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the corners of the cylinder head next to the camshaft bearing cap

SHAFT, LEFT

(12 OIL HOLES AT SHAFT

SHAFT, RIGHT

(4 OIL HOLES AT SHAFT /

CAP NO. 4

ROCKER ARM, (INTAKE)

WITH JET VALVE

FOR INSTALLATION

ROCKER ARM, (INTAKE)

WITHOUT JET VALVE

5.5 An exploded view of the rocker arms and shafts (typical) then reinstall the main bearing cap on that end to hold it in place untilreas- sembly

Note 2: While the camshaft bearing caps are off, inspect them, as well as the camshaft bearing journals, as described in Section 13.

Removal

Refer to illustration 5.3

1 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

2 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center (see Section 3).

3 Have an assistant hold down the transmission end of the camshaft, then loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts i/4-turn at a time until the spring pressure is relieved (see illustration). Do not remove the bolts.

4 Lift the rocker arms and shaft assembly from the cylinder head. Rein- stall the bearing cap at the transmission end to hold the camshaft in place.

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 5.5 and 5.6

5 If you wish to disassemble and inspect the rocker arm assemblies (a good idea as long as you have them off), remove the retaining bolts and slip the rocker arms, springs and bearing caps off the shafts (see iiiustra- tion). Keep the parts in order so you can reassemble them in the same positions. Note: If the engine is equipped with hydrauliclashao’justers, refer to Chapter ZB, Section 7 for the inspection procedure.

==~~~-~~~, _~

~-~ --

5.6 Check the contact faces and adjusting screw tips (arrows)

6 Thoroughly clean the parts and inspect them for wear and damage.

Check the rocher arm faces that contact the camshaft and the adjusting screw tips (see illustration). Check the surfaces of the shafts that the rocker arms ride on, as well as the bearing surfaces inside the rocker

2A-6 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

SHAFT, LEFT

(12 OIL HOLES AT

SHAFT BOTlO&t)

5.7 Back off the adjusters until they only protrude

(0.040 in)

1 mm

ROCKER SHAFT,

RIGHT

IDENTlFlCATiON MARK (CENTER CAP ONLY)

(2: NO. 2, 3; NO. 3, 4: NO. 4)

ROCKER SHAFT,

LEFT

MATING

MARK

THE SHAFT

MATING MARK

ON THE SHAFT

FRONT OF

ENGINE

5.8a Install the rocker shafts into the front bearing cap

MATING MARK

ON THE CAP

’

/ ARRbW

INDlCATiNG

THE FRONT

MAilNG MARK

ON THE CAP

5.8b Be sure the mating mark on the cap is aligned with the mating mark on the shaft arms, for scoring and excessive wear. Replace any parts that are damaged or excessively worn. Also, make sure the oil holes in the shafts are not plugged.

Installation

Refer to illustrations 5.7, 5.8a and 5.86

7 Loosen the locknutsand back off the adjusters until they only protrude

1 mm (0.040-inch) (see illustration).

8 Lubricate all components with assembly lube or engine oil and reassemble the shafts. When installing the rocker arms, shafts and springs, note the markings and the difference between the left and right side parts

(see illustration). Place the marks in the end of the shaft directly in line with the marks on the caps (see illustration) to keep them aligned until they are ready to be installed onto the cylinder head.

9 Position the rocker arm assemblies on the cylinder head and install the mounting bolts finger tight. Note: Check the numberedmarkings on the caps to make sure the caps are in the correct numerical sequence.

10 Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts l/4-turn at a time, starting from the middle and working out toward the ends, until the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is reached.

11 Adjust the valve clearances

12 Temporarily install the valve

(cold) cover as described in Chapter and run the engine

1. until it is fully warmed up.

13 Readjust the valves while the engine is still warm (see Chapter 1).

14 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

15 Run the engine and check for oil leaks and proper operation.

6 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement

Refer to illustrations 6.4, 6.9 and 6.17

Note 1: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be re-

6.4 This is what the air hose adapter that threads into the spark plug hole looks like -they’re commonly parts stores available from auto placed without removing the cylinder heads. Two special tools and a com- pressedair source are normaffy required toperfonn this operation, so read through this Section carefully and rent or buy the tools before beginning the job. If compressed air isn’t available, a length of nyion rope can be usedto keep the valves from falling into the cylinder during this procedure.

Note 2: Some models are equipped with a jet vatve that is mounted directly beside each intake valve. Refer to Chapter 20, Section 11 for the jet valve servrcmngprocedure.

1 Refer to Section 4 and remove the valve cover from the affected cylinder head. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, remove both valve covers.

2 Remove the spark plug from the cylinder which has the defective component. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of the spark plugs should be removed.

3 Turn the crankshaft until the piston in the affected cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke (refer to Section 3 for instructions).

If you’re replacing all of the valve stem seals, begin with cylinder number one and work on the valves for one cytinder at a time. Move from cylinder- to-cylinder following the firing order sequence (see this Chapter’s Specif- cations).

4 Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it (see illustration). Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note: Manycylindercompressiori gauges utilize a screw-in fittrng that may work with your air hose quick-disconnect fittmg.

5 Remove the rocker arms and shafts (see Section 5).

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine 2A-7

6.9 Use needle nose pliers or a small magnet to remove the valve spring keepers - be careful not to drop them down into the engine

. . ~ . . - “ . _ I . _ . __

6.17 Apply a small dab of grease to each keeper as shown here before Installation - it’ll hold them in place on the valve stem as the spring is released

6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may be forceddownbycompressedair, the wrench used when positioning causing thecrankshaftto the number one piston turnsuddenly. at TDC is still

If attached to the bolt in the crankshaft nose, it couldcause damage or injury when the crankshaft moves.

7 The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. If the valve faces or seats are in poor condition, leaks may prevent air pressure from retaining the valves-refer to the alternative procedure below.

8 If you don’t have access to compressed air, an alternative method can be used. Position the piston at a point just before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed a long piece of nylon rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber. Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out of the engine so it can be removed easily. Use a large ratchet and socket to rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is felt.

9 Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring (see illustration). Re- move the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet.

10 Remove the spring retainer, shield and valve spring, then remove the umbrella type guide seal. Note: lfairpressure fails to hold the valvein the closed position during this operation, the valve face or seat is probably damaged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be removed for additional repair operations.

11 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won’t fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of airpressure, turn the crankshaft slightly in the direction opposite normal rotation.

12 Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and checkthe end for eccentric movement, which would indicate that the valve is bent.

13 Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it doesn’t bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the head will have to be removed for repair.

14 Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is felt.

15 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and install a new guide seal.

16 Install the spring(s) in position over the valve.

17 Install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and carefully position the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place (see illustration).

18 Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated.

19 Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. If a rope was used in place of air pressure, pull it out of the cylinder.

20 Refer to Section 5 and install the rocker arm assembly.

21 Install the spark plug(s) and hook up the wire(s).

22 Refer to Section 4 and install the valve cover.

23 Start and run the engine, then check for oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area.

7 Intake manifold - removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on anypart of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage whereanaturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterheaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. lfyou spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a C/ass B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Removal

1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

3 Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 4).

4 Clearly label and detach all vacuum lines, electrical wiring and fuel lines.

5 Detach the accelerator ter 4). cable from the throttle linkage (see Chap-

6 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).

7 Remove the carburetor or throttle body unit from the intake manifold

(see Chapter 4).

8 Remove the coolant hoses from the intake manifold.

9 Disconnect the fuel inlet line at the fuel filter (see Chapter 4).

10 Remove the fuel pump and fuel filter and lay them aside (see Chap- ter 4).

11 Remove the intake manifold bolts and remove the manifold from the engine.

Installation

12 Clean the manifold bolts with solvent and dry them with compressed air. Warning: Wear eye protection!

13 Checkthematlngsurfacesofthemanifoldforflatnesswithaprecision straightedge and feeler gauges. Refer to this Chapter’s Specifications the warpage limit.

14 Inspect the manifold for cracks and distortion. for

15 If the manifold is cracked or warped, replace it or see if it can be resurfaced/repaired at an automotive machine shop.

16 Check carefully for any stripped or broken intake manifold bolts. Re- place any defective bolts with new parts.

2A-a Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

8.9 Remove the exhaust manifold nuts from the exhaust manifold. Be sure to soak the nuts with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them.

1 Reed valve bracket

2 Heat shield

3 Ground cable

4 Reed valve assembly

5 Exhaust manifold

6 Exhaust manifold gasket

7 Exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe gasket

9.6 Timing chain cover installation

Pulley assembly

Pulley

Timing bolt and washer chain cover details

4 Gasket

5 Access cover

6 Gasket

7 Front seal from the manifold.

9 Remove the exhaust manifold nuts (see illustration) and detach the exhaust manifold.

IO Separate the front catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold.

Ins talla tion

11 Discard the old gaskets and use a scraper to clean the gasket mating surfaces on the manifold and head, then clean the surfaces with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

12 Place the exhaust manifold andconverterassembly in position on the cylinder head and install the nuts. Starting at the center, tighten the nuts in a criss-cross

IS reached. pattern until the torque llsted in this Chapter’s Specifications

13 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

14 Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks between the manifold and the cylinder head and between the manifold and the exhaust pipe.

17 Using a scraper, remove all traces of old gasket material from the cylinder head and manifold mating surfaces. Clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

18 Install the intake manifold with a new gasket and tighten the bolts finger-tight. Starting at the center and working out in both directions, tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern until the torque listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications is reached.

19 The remainder of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal.

8 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 8.9

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

3 Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 4).

4 Loosen the power steering pump and remove the belt (see Chap- ter 1).

5 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Detach the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold (see Chapter4). Apply penetrating

6 Disconnect oil to the fastener threads if they are difficult to remove. the air injection tube assembly (pulse air feeder) if equipped, and move the tube assembly to one side.

7 Remove the power steering pump (if equipped) and set it aside (see

Chapter 10).

8 Remove the heat shjeld from the exhaust manifold. Be sure to soak the bolts and nuts w&h penetrating oil before attempting to remove them

9 Silent shaft chain/sprockets and installation

-removal, inspection

Note: When a loose silent shaft drive chain is suspected as the cause of excessive no/se. the tens/on must be adjusted. it is possible to do this procedure without removing the bming charn cover (see Step 17).

Removal

Refer to illustrations 9.6 and 9.8

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Re- move the air cleaner assembly. Drain the engine coolant (see Chapter 1).

2 Remove thedrivebelts, cooling fan and pulley. Remove the alternator, power steering pump, air conditionrng compressor (if equipped) and related brackets, and lay them aside. Warning: is under high pressure - don’t disconnect

Theairconditioningsystem the hoses.

3 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4). Remove the front two cylinder head-to-timing chain cover bolts. Caution: Do not loosen any other cylinder head bolts. Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5).

4 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Remove the splash guard. Remove the large bolt at the front of the crankshaft and slide the pulley off. Note: To keep the crankshaft from turning while you’re removing this bolt, remove the starter (see Chapter 5) and wedge a large screwdriver into the f/ywhee//driveplate ring gear. Note: If the pulley does notcome off easily, pullers are available atautopatts stores that willmake removal easy.

BOLT “B”

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

CHAIN GUIDE “8

FLANGE BOLTS

SPROCKET HOLDER

1 FLANGE BOLT (‘2)

/ i

(SAME, MATCH HUB DIRECTION)

I I \ -.I?.-

CRANKSHAFT (SILENT

SHAFT) SPROCKET

I l.r%I.“L Y”l.I.2

CHAIN ‘WIDE “A”

9.16a Installing the silent shaft chain guide C

5 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan (see Chapter 15).

6 Remove the bolts attaching the timing chain cover to the engine block

(see illustration). Draw asimple diagram showing the location of each of the bolts so they can be returned to the same holes from which they were removed.

7 Tap the timing chain coverwith a soft-faced hammerto break the gasket seal, then remove the cover from the engine block. Caution: between the coverand the engine block can damage the gasket

P@ng sealing surfaces.

8 Remove the chain guides labeled A, Band C (see illustration). Each guide is held in place by two bolts. Again, draw a simple diagram showing the location of each bolt so they can be returned to the same holes from which they were removed.

9 Reinstall the large bolt in the end of the crankshaft. awrench topreventthecrankshaftfromtuming

Hold it in place with whilelooseningthe bolton the end of the right (passengerside) silent shaft, the bolt attaching the right silent shaft drive sprocket to the oil pump shaft and the bolt in the end of the left silent shaft.

10 Slidethecrankshaftsprocket, thesilentshaftsprocketsand thechain off the engine as an assembly. Leave the bolt in the end of the crankshaft place. Do not lose the keys that index the sprockets to the shafts. in

,,s

..j,&.? i

Inspection

11 Check the sprocket teeth for wear and damage. Check the spr&&et cushion rings and ring guides (silent shaft sprockets only) for wear and damage. Rotate the cushion rings and check for smooth operation. In- spectthe chain forcracked side plates and pitted or worn rollers. Replace any defective or worn parts with new ones.

Ins talla tion

Refer to illustrations 9.16a, 8.1 Sb, 9.16~ and 9.17

12 Before installing the silent shaft chain and sprockets, the timing chain must be properly installed and the Number One piston must be at TDC on thecompressionstroke. Bothsilentshaftsandtheoilpumpmustalso bein place.

13 Slide the crankshaft sprocket part way onto the front of the crankshaft by lining up the keyway in the sprocket with the key on the shaft.

14 Install the front silent shaft sprocket part way. The dished or recessed side of the front silent shaft sprocket must face out. Install the silent shaft chain onto the crankshaft sprocket and the front silent shaft sprocket. Line up the plated links on the chain with the mating marks stamped into the sprockets (see illustration 9.16~).

15 With the dished or recessed side facing in, slide rearz.!!ent shaft sprocket part way onto the lower oil pump gear shaft. Line up the plated link on the chain with the mating mark on the sprocket. Push the silent shaft sprockets all the way onto their respective ways in the sprockets with the keys on the shafts. shafts, lining up the key-

Simultaneously, push the crankshaft sprocket back until it bottoms on the crankshaft timing chain sprocket. Recheck the position of the mating marks on the chain and sprockets, then install the silent shaft sprocket bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in illustration 9.8.

2A-10 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

1 TO 3.5 mm

LO4 TO .14 IN.)

PLATED LINK

Q.16b Installing the silent shaft chain guide B

Chain guide “B”

Special bolt “B”

9.16~ Push in the direction of arrow F to remove the slack from the silent shaft chain

Projection

9.17 Use your finger to push the projection against the chain mounting bolts for chain guide B finger-tight). Note the difference between the upper and lower chain guide B mounting bolts. Make sure they are installed in the proper location.

17 Adjust the chain slack as follows: rotate the right (passenger side) silent shaft clockwise and the left (driver’s side) silent shaft counterclockwise so the chain slack is collected at point F (see illustration 9.16~). Pull the chain with your finger tips in the direction of arrow F, then move the lowerend of chain guide 8 up or down, as required, until the clearance between the chain and the guide (chain slack) is as specified (see illustration 9.16~). Tighten the mounting bolts for chain guide B securely, then recheck the slack to make sure it hasn’t changed. If the chain is not ten- sioned properly, engine noise will result. Note: Toad$/sf the chain without removing the timingchaincover, front of the timing remove theaccesscovermountedon chain cover(see illustration 9.6). Loosen bolt ‘B”(see the illustration) and using your finger push the projection in the direction of the arrow Do not use a screwdriver or other implement. Tighten bolt ‘8” and reinstall the access cover.

18 Apply a coat of moly-based grease to the chain and chain guides.

19 Using a hammer and punch, drive the oil seal out of the timing chain case (see Section 12).

20 Lay a new seal in place - make sure the lip faces inward - and tap around its circumference properly seated. with a block of wood and a hammer until it is

21 Using a new gasket and RTV sealant, install the timing chain cover onto the engine (sse illustration 9.6). Install the bolts in acriss-cross pattern and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the gasket protrudes beyond the top or bottom of the case and engine block, trim off the excess with a razor blade.

22 Apply a thin layer of clean moly-based grease to the seal contact surface of the crankshaft pulley, then slide it onto the crankshaft. bolt and tighten it finger-tight only.

Install the

Note: The bolt should be tightened to the specified torque on/y after the cylinder head and camshaft have been installed.

23 The remtinder tion is the reverse of removal.

10 Timing chain and sprockets - removal, inspection and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9a and 10.9b

Removal

1 Remove the silent shaft chain and sprockets chain assembly (see Section 9). for access to the timing

2 Remove the camshaft sprocket holder and the right and left timing- chain guides from the front of the engine block (see illustration 9.8).

3 Depress the timing chain tensioner plunger on the oil pump and slide the camshaft sprocket, the crankshaft sprocket and the timing chain off the engine as an assembly. Do not lose the key that indexes the crankshaft sprocket in the proper place. Remove the timing chain tensioner plunger and spring from the oil pump.

lnspec tion

4 inspect the sprocket teeth for wear and damage. Check the chain for cracked plates and pitted or worn rollers. Checkthe chain tensioner rubber shoe for wear and the tensioner spring for cracks and deterioration. Check the chain guides for wear and damage. Replace any defective parts with new ones.

Ins talla tion

5 Install the sprocket holder and the right and left timing chain guides onto the engine block. Tighten the bolts securely. The upper bolt in the left timing chain guide should be installed finger-tight only. Then coat the entire length of the chain contact surfaces of the guides with clean, high-quai- ity moly-based

6 grease.

Turn the crankshaftboltwith alarge wrench until the NumberOnepis- ton is at Top Dead Center (TDC) (see Section 3). Apply a layer of clean moly-based grease or engine assembly lube to the timing chain tensioner plunger and install the tensioner spring and plunger loosely into the 02 pumpbody(seeillustration). Note: ChryslerCorporationofficiaNyrecog- nizesaprobiem with the timingchainatstart-up. Becauseofinsufficientoii pressure, the timing chain will make a knocking noise when the engine is first started. This willnot harm the engine, but it is necessary tensioner. Purchase from a dealership parts department to update the a rubber spacer and insert it into the tensioner spring. This spacer will prevent the oil from flowing out of the tensioner and back into the oil pump.

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine ZA-II

10.6 Lubricate the timing chain tensioner plunger and install it in the oil pump bore

10.7 install the timing chain sprocket on the end of the crankshaft with the wide shoulder facing out

10.8 Mesh the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain with the mark on the sprocket directly opposite the plated link on the chain

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

\ /

PLATED LINK

MATING MARK

ING CHAIN lO.Qa Installing the timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket

(note that the sprocket mark and the plated link are opposite each other)

SC&:

7 Position the timing chain sprocket on the end of the crankshaft the wide shoulder facing out with

(see illustration). Line up the keyway in the sprocket with the key on the crankshaft.

8 Install the camshaft sprocket onto the chain, lining up the plated link on the chain with the marked tooth on the sprocket (see illustration).

9 Slipthechainoverthecrankshaftsproc the chain with the marked tooth on the spro up the plated linkon illustration). Slide the crankshaft sprocket all the way onto the ft while depressing tt-ie chain tensioner so the chain fits into place fitthe guides. l-test the camshaft sprocket on the sprocket holder(see illustration) and make sure the plated links and mating marksarealigned properly. Caution: Donorrotate the crankshaft for any reason until the cylinder head and camshaft have been properly installed.

10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

MATING MARK

11 Camshaft oil plug-replacement

-PLATED LINK b

CRANKShAFT

SPROCKET lO.Qb Correct timing chain and sprocket relationship

$& _

1 Remove the cylinder head from the engine (see Section 14).

2 The camshaft oil plug is serviced the same as an engine freeze plug

(see Chapter 2D, Section 14). Be sure to use a small amount of sealant around the circumference of the new oil plug. Use a large socket to install the plug by tapping on it gently with a hammer. Note: If necessary have the camshaft oil plug removed and installed$y an automotive machine shop.

&.>.

2A-12 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

12.3 Crankshaft front oil seal installation -exploded view

13.7 To check camshaft endplay, set up a dial indicator like this, with the gauge plunger touching the nose of the camshaft

12 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustration 72.3

1 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).

2 Remove the crankshaft pulley.

3 Carefully pry the seal out of the front cover seal removal tool or a screwdriver. Don’t scratch

(see illustration) with a the seal bore or damage the crankshaft in the process (if the crankshaft is damaged, the new seal will end up leaking).

4 Clean the bore in the timing chain cover and coat the outer edge of the new seal with engine oil or multi-purpose grease. Using a socket with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal, carefully drive the seal into place with a hammer. If a socket is not available, ashortsection of a large diameter pipewill work. Check the seal after installation to be sure the spring did not pop out.

5 Install the crankshaft pulley.

6 Run the engine and check for leaks.

13 Camshaft - removal, inspection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 13.5

1 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

2 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5).

3 Set the engine at TDC for cylinder number one (see Section 3), then remove the rocker arm assembly (see Section 5). If the camshaft bearing

13.5 Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and detach the sprocket and distributor drive gear from the camshaft (the oil shield is used on early models only) capsdo not have numberson them, numberthem before removal. Be sure to put the marks on the same ends of all the caps to prevent incorrect orientation of the caps during installation.

4 In order to keep the tensioner from collapsing once the sprocket has been removed, install a special retaining tool between the timing chain, near the tensloner (see Illustration 14.7). The tool will extend down into the timing chain cover, so be sure the strap or wire hanger on the tool does not fall into the cover or it will be very difficult to remove the tool when the camshaft has been installed.

5 Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt anddistributordrive gear (see lustration). Note: Prevent the camshaft from turning by locking it inplace ii- with a largepairof Vise-grips oradjustablepliers. Fasten the too/onto the, camshaft without contacting the camshaft lobes. Position the tool only OQ the spaces between the lobes that are equipped with a noYched relief specifically designed for retaining the camshaft. Detach the timing chain and camshaft sprocket from the camshaft. Suspend the camshaft sprocket, with the cha/n still attached, out ot the way.

8 Lift out the camshaft, wipe it off with a clean shop towel and set it aside.

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 13.7 and 13.10

7 To check camshaft endplay: a) Install the camshaft and secure it with caps 1 and 5. b) Mount a dial indicator on the head c) Using a large screwdriver

(see illustration). as a lever at the opposite end, move the camshaft forward-and-backward mg. and note the dial indicator read--- d) Comparethe

Iftcatlons. reading with theendplay listed in this Chapter’s Spec- e) If the indicated reading is higher, either the camshaft or the head is worn. Replace parts as necessary.

8 To check camshaft runout: a) Support the camshaft with a pair of V-blocks and attach a dial indicator with the stem resting against the center bearing journal on the camshaft. b) Rotate the camshaft and note the indicated runout. cj Compare the results to the camshaft runout listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. d) If the indicated runout exceeds the specified runout, replace the camshaft.

9 Check the camshaft bearing j&Eals of wear. If they are worn, replac&&cylmder unit. Measure the journals on thmhaft your readings with this Chapter’sSpectfications. and caps for scoring

If the diameter and signs head with a new or rebuilt with a micrometer, comparing of any of the journals IS out of spectflca@frr,replace

10 Check the cam lobes for \: a) Check

,?nd the toe and ram-areas the camshaft. of each cam lobe for score marks uneven wear. Also check for flaking and pitting.

,&$$apter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

WEAR ZONE

1 I t-ACTUAL WEAR

ZA- 13

13.10 Measure the height of the camshaft and unworn area, then subtract the unworn area measurement the wear lobes at the wear zone zone to get the actual the wear to the limit listed in this Chapter’s measurement wear-compare

Specifications from

14.7 Before removina camshaft sprocket, the position the tensioner locking tool between the chain, at the tensioner - be sure the tool has a cord or wire attached to the end of it so it can be easily removed after the job - if the tool is not available, a block of wood and a length of mechanic’s wire will also work

‘4 If there’s wear-on the toe or the ramp, replace the camshaft, but first try to find the cause of the wear. Look for abrasive substances in theoiland inspect the oil pump and oil passages for blockage. Lobe cl wear is usually caused by inadequate

Using a micrometer, calculate lubrication the lobe wear or dirty oil.

(see illustration). the lobe wear is greater than listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, replace the camshaft.

11 Inspect the rocker arms forwear, galling and pitting of the contactsur- faces.

12 If any of the conditions described above are noted, the cylinder head is probably getting insufficient lubrication track2own the cause of this problem or dirty oil, so make

(low oil level, low oil pump sure you capacity, clogged oil passage, etc.) before installing a new head, camshaft or rocker arms.

Ins talla tion

Refer to illustration 13.14

13 Thoroughly clean the camshaft, the bearing surfaces in the head and caps and the rocker arms. Remove all sludge and dirt. Wipe off all components with a clean, lint-free cloth.

14 Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces in the head and the bearing journals and lobes on the camshaft with assembly lube or moly-base grease. Carefullylowerthecamshaftinto position with thedowel pin pointing up (see illustration). camshaftand related

Caution: components

Failure can cause to adequate/y serious damage lubricate fhe to bearing

13.14 Install the camshaft with the dowel pin pointing up and friction surfaces during the first few seconds after engine start-up, when the oil pressure is low or nonexistent.

15 Coat the outsidediameterof the circular plug with RTVsealant. the plug to the rear of the cylinder head.

16 Apply a thin coat of assembly lube ormoly-base

Install grease tottie bearing surfaces of the camshaft bearing caps.

17 Install the rocker arm shaft assembly. Tighten the camshaft bearing . cap bolts l/4-turn at a time, starting from the middle and working out to the ends, until the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is reached.

16 Install the camshaft sprocket and timing chain and related components (see Section 10). If you suspended the camshaft sprocket out the way and didn’t disturb the timing chain or sprockets, should still be correct. Rotate the camshaft as necessary the valve timing to reattach the sprocket to the camshaft. If the timing was disturbed, align the sprockets and install the chain as described in section IO.

19 Remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure the valve timing is correct. After two revolutions, the timing marks on the sprockets should still be aligned. If they’re not, re-index the timing chain to the sprockets rotating the crankshaft, referring to Section IO.

(see Section’lO). stop immediately

Note: Ifyoufeelresistance while and check the valve timing by

20 Adjust the valve clearances

21 lnstallthesemi-circularplug sealant to the top of the semi-circular as described in Chapter 1. tothefrontofthecylinderheadandapply plug.

22 Install the valve cover and gasket.

23 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

14 Cylinder head - removal and installation

Caution: Allow the engine to coolcompletelybefore dure. beginning thisproce-

Removal

Refer to illustrations 14.7and 14.3

1 Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center (see Section 3).

2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

3 Drain the cooling system and remove the spark plugs (see Chap- ter 1).

4 Remove the intake and exhaust manifold (see Sections 7 and 8).

Note: Ifyou’re only replacing the cylinderheadgasket, itisn’tnecessaryto remove the manifolds. lfyou leave the manifolds attached, you may need an assistant to he/p lift the head off the engine, since it !&ill be quite heavy

5 Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

6 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5) including the cap and wires.

7 Remove the silent shaft chain and sprockets (see Section 9) and the timing chain and sprocket (see Section 10). Note: It is possible to use a tensioner locking tool(see illusfration) to hold the chain andfensiqnerin plate while the cylinder head is off the engine. This will save time you by

2A-14 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engim

94 Nom (69 FT. LBS.) COLD ENGINE

103 Nom (75 FT. LBS.) HOT ENGINE

14.8 Loosen the head bolts IM-turn at a time, in the sequence shown, until they can be removed by hand

18 Nom 056 IN. LBS.)

14.16 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING sequence n and silent shaft chain assemblies. lo prevent it from popping out when m increments until they can be re- head the same location on installation. nded sequence to avoid warping the

(see ilh&tration). Note where each bolt goes so it can be returned to

9 Lift the head off the engine. If resistan~,&?elt, don’t pry between the head and blockgasket mating surfaces-damage will result. Instead, pry against the casting protrusions to the matingsurfaces on the sides of,the cylinder head. Set the head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the gasket sealing surfaces.

10 Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures are covered in detail in Chapter 2, Part D. It’s a good idea to have the head checked for warpage, even if you’re just replacing the gasket.

;;j$$i- ,,: w&

‘fr’. f the cylinder head and block must be perfectly s”.g~c+i; z;$yg

‘?” &an when the head is installed.

, -: i 12 x

Use a gasket material, scraper to remove then clean the mating surfaces all traces of carbon with lacquer thinner and old gasket or acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the head is installed, the gasket may not seal correctly and leaks may develop. When working on the block, stuff the cylinders with clean shop rags to keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove material that falls into the cylinders. Since the head is made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can cause damage. Be extra careful not to nick or gouge the mating surfaces with the scraper.

13 Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with a file; if it’s excessive, machining may be the only alternative.

14 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes, Mount each head bolt in a vise and run a die down the threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads. Dirt, corrosion, sealant and damaged threads will affect torque readings.

15 Place a new gasket on the block. Check to see if there are any markings (such as “TOP”) on the gasket that say how it is to be installed. Those identification marks must face UP. Also, apply sealant to the edges of the timing cover where it mates with the engine block. Set the cylinder head in position.

16 install the boltsThey must be tightened in a specific sequence (see illustration), in the stages and to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Spec- ifications. Note: Use thefirstandsecond(“enginecold’~and hof’) steps in ttre Specifications. third (‘engine

17 Reinstall the timing chain and silent shaft chain, if removed. If a tensioner locking tool was used, attach the camshaft sprocket and remove the tool.

18 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal:

15.4 Remove the b&s (@Vows) ft@m the oil pan

.~.

19 Be sure to refill the cooling~st~and check all fluid leveis.~$

20 Rotate the crankshaft clock@se slowly by hand through twocon$ete revol.utions. Recheck the camshaft timing marks (see Sect@n-a. tion: /f you fee/ any resistance while turningfhe engifle check the camshaft timing. The valves may be hitting

I_ a-u- b/E-

21 Start the engine and check the ignition tim@-g(see Chapter 1).

22 Run the engine until normal opeFatingtempe@&re for leaks and proper operation. ...’ is reached. Check

”

23 Remove the valve cover and re-tight&+t.&&ylinder the engine is hot (use Step 3 in the Specifications), cover

--- ~~

= -+-a. -..A..

-. _ _~ i$ad bolts whL& then re-install the valve a%

15 Oil pan - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 15.4 ~

Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption tha.j the engine is in the veh/cie.

-7

1 Wg

Chapterl). up the engine, then drain the oil and replaci?the$‘?ilter (see

2 Detach the cable from the neg@&e battery terminal,

3 Raise the vehicle and support itsecurely on jackstands. some models it may be necessary to unbolt the engine&q$$ the engine several Inches to make additional

Note: On a_nd-@se e ai/ pan. jr

. -

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

- . . . _ r r ~ - .

T* i;;

._ t t ; ; .

2A- 15

16.3 An exploded view of the oil pump assembly and the pick-up tube

16.5 Check oil pu on each gear

#P’ ._ ghtedge and a feeler gauge to check the endplay on the driven gear leakage maj, occur.

11 Add oil, run the this Hhe case, be .sj&e top/ace woodblocks between the engine mounts and the frame whil& th$iqngine is in the raisedposition.

4 Remove the bol$~seEuring the oil pan to the engine block (see illustration).

5 Tap on the pan wih a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal, then detac@,t& oil pan ffo”m the engine. Don’t pry between the block and oil pan matiQ&Qfaces~ ’

6 Us&g agasket scraper, remove all traces of old gasket and/orsealant from the engine bl%&ind oil pan. Remove the seals from each end of the engine block or oil pan. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make&e the&@aded bolt holes in the block are clean.

7 Clean them pan with @Ivent and dry it thoroughly. Check the gasket flangesfordist@on, particularly around the bolt holes. If necessary, place the pan on aplock of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gasket su c&. .’

8 lnstal % e o”n pan end seals, then apply a i/8-inch wide bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan gasket surfaces. Continue the bead across the end seals. Make sure ihe’sealant is applied to the inside edge of the bolt holes.

9 Carefully place the oil pan in position.

10 Install the boltsqp$ighten them in l/4-turn increments to the torque listed in this Chapter@pecifications. centerofthepanandworkout

.._

Start with the bolts closest to the inaspiralpattern. Dontovertighten themor

16.6b Use a straightq$geT,and gauge to check the endplay,?tthe a feeler drive !g&. c _ =

16 Oil pump - removal, inspection

Removal

Refer to illustration 16.3

1 Remove the timing chain (see Section 10).

2 Remove the oil pan (see Section 15).

3 Remove the oil pump mounting bolts (see illustration) the oil pump assembly. z-

Inspection

Refer to illustrafidns and installatiozV m

16.5, 16.6a, 16.6bb, 16.7, 16.&@and

-..

.A%

I~-=-~---

.:=F-

* T.

L++ :z:

)_I

--_

---.

.L -<&. . -_

-..&g;;:,

,.i,,_:.. .,.I;!‘::; and remove ‘~

..I

16.1 I

4 Remove the bolts and lift off the oil pump cover.

5 Check the oil pump bearing clearance on each gear (see illustration).

- /

6 Using feeler gauges and a straightedge, driven gear and the drive gear (see illustrations). check the endpigy of th%- b.

2A-16 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

16.7 Check the driven gear-to-housing clearance

16.8 Check the drive gear-to-housing clearance

16.9 Remove the oil pressure relief valve spring and measure Its free length

16.11 Be sure the mating marks on the oil pump gears are set when assembling the oil pump

17.3 On engines with a symmetrical bolt pattern, be sure to mark the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft

7 Check the clearance between the driven gear and the pump housing with feeler gauges (see illustration).

8 Check the clearance between the drive gear and the pump housing with feeler gauges (see illustration).

9 Extract the spring and oil pump relief valve from the pump housing

(see illustration). Measure the free length of the oil pressure relief valve spring.

IO Compare the measurements to the oil pump Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. If any of them are outside the limits, replace the pump.

11 install thegearswith the mating marks aligned together(see illustration). Install the oil pressure relief valve and spring assembly. Install the pump cover and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications.

Ins talla tion

12 ApplyathincoatofRTVsealanttothematingsurfaceofthepumpand place the pump in position. Rotate it back-and-forth a little to ensure there’s positive contact between the pump and the engine block.

13 Coat the threads of the mounting bolts with RTV sealant and, while holding the pump securely in place, install the bolts. Tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

14 Install a new gasket on the oil pick-up tube, if removed (see illustration 16.3) and install the oil pick-up tube and screen. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

15 Install the oil pan (see Section 15).

17 FlywheeVdriveplate - removal and inslallation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 17.3 and 17.4

1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands,

Chapter 7and remove the transmission. If it’s leaking, then refer to now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring only).

(automatic transmission

2 Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (see Chapter 8) (manual transmission equipped vehicles). Now is a good time to check/replace clutch components and pilot bearing.

3 Make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft ensure correct alignment during reinstallation (see illustration). the

4 Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate shaft to the crank-

(see illustration). If the crankshaft turns, remove the starter (see

Chapter 5) and wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear teeth. to

5 Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the fb- wheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt.

6 Clean the flywheel to remove grease and ofl. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth.

Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for war- paw.

7 Clean the crankshaft. and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and

If the crankshaf? rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the fiywheelidriveplate.

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine *

18.2a The quick (but not recommended) way to replace the rear main oil seal is to simply pry the old one out - other models may require removal of the rear main seal retainer

17.4 Flywheelldriveplate and related components - exploded view

I Pilot bearing

2 Flywheel

3 Ring gear

4 Adapterplate

5 Driveplate

6 Crankshaft adapter

7 Crankshaft bushing

8 Rear p/ate

9 Bell housing cover

Ins talla tion

8 Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Be- fore installing the bolts, apply thread locking compound to the threads.

9 Wedge a screwdriver through the starter motor opening to keep the flywheel/driveplatefrom turning as you tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

18.2b Lubricate the crankshaft journal and the lip of the new seal with engine oil and tap the new seal into place-the seal lip is stiff and can be easily damaged during installation if you’re not careful

18 Rear main oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrations 18.2a, 18.2b, 18.5 and 18.6

1 The transmission dure (see Chapter 7). must be removed from the vehicle for this proce-

2 The seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan or seal retainer.

However, this method is not recommended because the lip of the seal is quite stiff and its possible to cock the seal in the retainer bore or damage it during installation. If you want to take the chance, pry out the old seal (see illustration). Apply a film of clean oil to the crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new seal and carefully tap the new seal intoplace (see illustration). The lip is stiff so carefully work it onto the seal journal of the crankshaft with a smooth object like the end of an extension as you tap the seal into place. Don’t rush it or you may damage the seal.

3 The following method is recommended pan (see Section 15) and the seal retainer. but requires removal of the oil

4 After the oil pan has been removed, remove the bolts, detach the seal retainer and peel off all the old gasket material.

5 Position the seal and retainerassemblyon acouple of wood blocks on aworkbench hammer anddrivetheoldseal

(see illustration). out from the backside withapunchand

18.5 After removing the retainer from the engine, support it on wood blocks and drive out the old seal with a punch and hammer

2A-18 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

8 Slowly and carefully push the seal onto the crankshaft. The seal lip is stiff, so work it onto the crankshaft with a smooth object such as the end of an extension as you push the retainer against the block.

9 Install and tighten the retainer bolts to the torque listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications. The bottomsealing flange of the retainer must not extend below the bottom sealing flange (oil pan rail) of the block.

IO The remaining steps are the reverse of removal.

11 Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

18.6 Drive the new seal into the retainer with a block of wood or a section of pipe, if you have one large enough - make sure you don’t cock the seal in the retainer bore

6 Drive the new seal into the retainer with a block of wood (see illustration) or a section of pipe slightly smaller in diameter than the outside diameter of the seal.

7 Lubricate the crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new seal with clean engine oil. Position a new gasket on the engine block.

19 Engine mounts-check, replacement and adjustment

I Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear.

Check

Refer to illustrations 19.4a and 19.4b

2 During the check, the engine must be raised stightty to remove the weight from the mounts.

3 Raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands, then position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts. Warning: DO NOTplace anypartofyour body under the engine when it’s supported only by a jack!

4 Check the mount insulators (see illustrations) to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split right down the center.

19.4a An exploded view of the engine mounts (typical) on the pick-up

18 Gear shift assembly

I9 Driveshaft

20 Number 2 crossmember

27 Engine and transmission assembly

Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine 2A-19

19.4b An exploded view of the engine mounts (typical) on the Raider

1 Heat shield

2 Front insulator stopper

3 Engine mounting front insulator

4 Plate

5 Transfer mounting insulator

6 Transfer mounting bracket

7 Number 2 crossmember

8 Engine mounting rear insulator

19.8a Removing the mount (note the alignment pin)

19.8c Removing the motor mount brackets

19.8b Separating the roll restrictor and mount

5 Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners.

6 Rubber preservative should be applied to theinsulators to slow deterioration.

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 19.8a, 19.8b and 19.8~

7 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands (if not already done).

8 Remove the fasteners and detach the mount from the frame bracket

(see illustrations).

9 Raise the engine slightly with a jack or hoist. Remove the insulator- to-engine bolts and detach the insulator.

IO Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.

2A-20 Chapter 2 Part A 2.6L four-cylinder engine

19.12 Before tightening the roll restrictor, check clearance A (0.4 inch [lO.O mm]) and clearance B (0.3 inch f7.5 mm])

19.11 Don’t tighten the engine mounts until the correct clearance has been attained

1 Front insulator

2 RON restrictor

3 Heat deflection plate

4 Roll restrfctor (Canada)

Refer to illustrations 19.11 and 19.12

11 When installing the roll restrictor to the front insulator, adjust the clearance between the roll restrictor and the side of the insulator (see illustration).

12 Position the roll restrictor and leave the nut loose until the correct clearance (see illustration) has been attained.

13 Tighten all the engine mounts securely.

Chapter 2 *Part C 3.OL V6 engine

Contents

Camshaft oil seal - replacement . . . . . . . . . _ . _

Camshaft and bearing surfaces -inspection

Camshaft - removal and installation

. . .

. . . . . . . . _

Crankshaft

Crankshaft front oil seal -replacement pulley/vibration damper

. . . . . . .

- removal and installation

Cylinder compression

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . check

Cylinder head(s) -removal

. . . . . . . . . . . . _ . _ and installation . . . .

Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement . .

Engine

Engine mounts -check and replacement oil and filter change

. . . . .

. . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . .

Engine overhaul -general information

Engine - removal and installation

. . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . .

Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation

Flywheel/driveplate

General information

- removal and installation

. .

. . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.............

. . . . . . . . . .._.

. . . See Chapter 2D

. . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

. . . . See Chapter 1

*.*.*........ 21

. . . . See Chapter 1

. . . See Chapter 2D

. . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

. . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

. . . . . ...*.... 1

Intake manifold - removal and installation ...................

Hydraulic lash adjusters- removal, inspection and installation ......................................

Oil pan - removal and installation .........................

Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation ...............

Rear main oil seal - replacement

Repair operations possible

.......................... with the engine in the vehicle

Rocker arm components - removal and installation ...........

.......

Spark plug replacement

Thermostat replacement

........................

.......................

Valve covers - removal and installation .....................

See Chapter 1

See Chapter 3

Timing belt - removal, installation and adjustment : ..........

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating .......

Valve spring, retainer

Water pump-removal and seals - replacement and installation ............

...............

See Chapter

2 1

Specifications

General

Displacement . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . .__ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .._._...._.........I...._._.......

Stroke

Compression

. . . .._........................................ ratio . . _ . _ _ . _ . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . _ _ _ . _ . . . . _ _ _ _ _ _

Firingorder . . . . . . . . . .._...._..................._......

Cylinder numbers (front to rear)

Right (passenger’s

Left (driver’s side) side) . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . _ . . . _ . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camshaft and related components

Camshaft runout limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . , . , . , . , . , . , . , . , . ,

Lobeheight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .._.__...._..._...

Lobeweariimit .._...__._..._.__.............._...._._.

181 cubic inches (3.0 liters)

3.587 inch

2.992 inch

8.85:1

1-2-3-4-5-6 l-3-5.

2-4-6

0.004inch

1.624 inch

0.02 inch

Cylinder location and

distributor rotation

2c-2 Chapter 2 Part C 3.QL V6 engine

Oil pump

Case-to-outer rotor clearance

Rotor end clearance

............................

....................................

Case-to-inner rotor clearance (maximum wear limit) ...........

Torque specifications

Rockerarmshaftbolts ..................................

Intake manifold nuts/bolts ...............................

Distributor drive adapter bolts ............................

Engine mounts (see illustration 21 .l)

Stopperbolts .......................................

Front insulator bolts ‘. .................................

Rear insulator-to-crossmember bolts .....................

Heat shield bolts .....................................

Transfer support bracket bolts ..........................

Exhaust manifold nuts ..................................

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts ........................

Exhaust pipe-to-manifold

Crankshaft vibration bolts ............................ damper-to-crankshaft bolt ...............

Camshaft sprocket bolt .................................

Timing belt cover bolts (see illustration 10.13)

A(M6X20) ........................................

B(M6X55)

C(M6X25)

D(M6XlO)

........................................

Timing belt tensioner locking nut or bolt ....................

Cylinder head bolt

Pick-ups

Montero

...........................................

IQQOandearlier

1991andiater..

Flywheel/driveplate

......... . .........................

................................... mounting bolts* .......................

Oil pan mounting bolts ..................................

Oil pump assembly mounting bolts ........................

Oil pump relief plug ....................................

Oil pick-up tube-to-pump bolts ............................

Oil pump cover bolts ...................................

Valvecoverbolts ......................................

‘Apply a thread locking compound to the threads prior to installation

0.004 to 0.007 inch

0.0015 to 0.0035 inch

0.006 inch

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

I80 in-lbs

168 in-lbs

132 in-lbs

65 to 72

76 to 83

72 to 80

72 in-lbs

120 in-lbs

180 in-lbs

120 in-lbs

84 in-lbs

108 in-lbs

180 in-lbs

132 in-lbs

112

115 in-lbs

1 General information

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-vehicle repair procedures for the 3.OLV6 engine. All information concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part

D of this Chapter.

The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedurescontained cations necessary in this Part. Part Dof Chapter2 for cylinder head and engine block contains the Specifi- rebuilding.

The 60-degree V6 has a cast iron block and aluminum heads with a camshaft in each head. The block has thin walled sections for light weight.

A “cradle frame” main bearing casting - the main bearing caps are cast as a unit, with a bridge, tile iron crankshaft. or truss, connecting them -supports the cast duc-

Both camshafts are driven off the crankshaft by a cog belt. A spring loaded tensioner, adjusted by an eccentric type locknut, maintains belt tension. Each camshaft actuates two valves per cylinder through hydraulic lash adjusters and shaft-mounted forged aluminum rocker arms.

Each cast aluminum three-ring piston has two compression rings and a three-piece oil control ring. The piston pins are pressed into forged steel connecting rods. The flat-topped pistons produce a 8.85:1 compression ratio.

The distributor (or crank angle sensor), which is mounted on the drivebelt end of the front cylinder head, is driven by a helical gear on the camshaft. The water pump, is driven off the crankshaft which is bolted to the timing belt end of the block, by a drivebelt and pulley. The gear type oil pump is mounted in the oil pump case and attached to the timing belt cov-. er. It is driven by the crankshaft.

From the oil pump, oil travels through the filter to the main oil gallery, from which it IS routed eitherdirectly to the main bearings, crankshaft, connecting rod bearings and pistons and cylinder walls or to the cylinder heads.

2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Many major reparroperations the engine from the vehicle. can be accomplished without removing

Clean the engine compartment some type of degreaserbefore and the exterior of the engine with any work is done. It will make the job easier and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage

(refer to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, camshaft and crankshaft oil seals and cylinder bead gaskets ares all accessible with the engrne in place.

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

4.3 An exploded view of the left side valve cover, rocker arm assembly and cylinder head

Spark plug wire connections

(nos. 2, 4 and 6)

Distributor

EGR pipe

EGR gasket

Heatprotector

Air intake plenum bracket

Bracket

Exhaust manifold

Gasket

Valve cover

Valve cover gasket

Air intake plenum gasket rear

Cylinder head

Cylinder head gasket

Timing belt rear cover

-29

2C-3

Exterior engine components, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan (and the oil pump), the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the distributor and the fuel system moved for repair with the engine in place. components can be re-

Since the cylinder heads can be removed without pulling the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be aocomplished the engine in the vehicle. Replacement of the timing belt and sprockets with is also possible with the engine in the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting equipment, repair or rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be. done to the components involved.

3 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Chap-

’ ter 2, Part A, Section 3 and follow the procedure outlined there.

4 Valve covers - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 4.3, 4.8 and 4.16

Removal

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4).

2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Left side cover

3 Remove the breather hose from the valve cover (see illustration).

4 Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Mark them clearly with pieces of masking tape to prevent confusion during installation.

5 Remove air intake plenum (see Chapter 4).

6 Remove the valve cover bolts and washers.

7 Detach the valve cover. Caution: If the cover is stuck to the head, bump one end with a block of wood and a hammer to jar it loose. If that doesn’t work, try toslipa flexibleputtyknife between the headandcoverto breakfhegaskefseal. Don’fpryaffhecover-fo-headjointordamagetothe sealing surfaces may occur (leading to oil 1eaF.s in the future).

2C-4 Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

12,

4.8 An exploded view of the right side valve cover, rocker arm assembly and cylinder head

I Alternator connectors

2 Alternator cover

3 Alternator

4 Spark plug wire connections

(nos. 1, 3 and 5)

5 Heat shield

6 Engine removal bracket

7 Alternator bracket

8 Exhaust manifold

9 Oil level gauge guide

10 Gasket

11 O-ring

12 Bolt

13 Valve cover

14 Valve covergasket

15 Cylinder head assembly

16 Cylinder headgasket

17 Camshaft sprocket f 8 Alternator bracket

Right side cover

8 Remove the breather hose from the cover

9 Tag and detach the spark plug wires.

10 Disconnect the electrical connectors

(see illustration). and vacuum hoses necessary for removal. Label and move the wiring and hoses aside.

11 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4).

12 Remove the air intake plenum (see Chapter 4).

13 Remove the valve cover bolts and washers and lift off the valve cover.

Read the Caution in Step 7. lf?SfiJk3fiO~

14 The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and valve cover must be perfectly clean when the covers are installed. Use a gasket scraper to re: move all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

2C-5

surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there’s sealant or oil on the - mating surfaces when the cover is installed, oil leaks may develop.

15 If necessary, any corrosion clean the mounting screw threads with a die to remove and restore damaged threads. Make sure the threaded holes in the head are clean -run a tap into them to remove corrosion and restore damaged threads.

16 The gaskets should be mated to the covers before the covers are installed. Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the cover in the areas indicated

(see illustration), then position the gasket inside the cover and allow the sealant to set up so the gasket adheres to the cover. If the sealant isn’t allowed to set, the gasket may fall out of the cover as it’s installed on the engine. *

17 Carefully position the cover on the head and install the bolts.

18 Tighten the boltsin three or four steps to the torque listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications.

19 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

20 Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks as the engine warms up.

Sealing coating agent location

4.16 it’s not necessary to use RIV gasket sealer on the inside of the gasket if the gasket is a tight fit and does not budge once it is installed inside the valve cover - it is necessary to apply RTV to the edges (arrows) on the outside of the gasket where it mates with the camshaft seals

OIL INTAKE WAR

HAS EXI-RA HOLE

IN BOTrOM

43 2 1

5.2 An exploded view of the rocker arm assembly

5 Rocker arm components-removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.4 and 5.5

1 Position the engine‘at TDC compression for the number 1 cylinder

(see Section 3). Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).

2 Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts (see illustration) in two or three stages, working your way from the ends toward the middle of the shafts.

Caution: Some of fbe valves willbe open when you loosen the rockerarm shaft bolts and the rocker arm shafts will be under a certain amount of valve spring pressure. Therefore, the bolts must be loosenedgradually.

Loosening a boltallat once neara rockerarm underspringpressure bend or break the rocker arm shaft. could

3 Prior to removal, scribe or paint identifying marks on the rockers to ensure they will be installed in their original locations.

4 Remove the bolts and lift off the rocker arm shaft assemblies time. Lay them down on one at a a nearby workbench in the same relationship to each otherthat they’re in when installed. They must be reinstalled on the same cylinder head. Note the location of the stamped bearing cap number and the position of the notches (see illustration).

NOTCH

5.4

BEARING-CAP NO. 1

Check each bearing cap stamped numeral and the position

of the notches to aid in correct assembly

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

_

ARROW MARK iCYlINDER HEAD)

ARROW hi?(BEARING CAPj

5.5 The arrows on the bearing caps should point in the same direction as the arrows on the cylinder heads

6.1 When that is being performing tested the freeplay test, make sure the adjuster has the corresponding camshaft away from the rocker arm (closed valve) lobe pointing

6.4 The hydraulic the machined lash adjusters openings are precision units installed in the rocker arm assemblies in

5 Installationis the reverse of the removal procedure. Note: Eesure the arrows stamped info the cylinder head and the bearing caps (see iiiustra- tion) arepointing in the same direction. Tighten the rockerarm in severalsteps. to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. shaftbolts,

Work from the ends of the shafts toward the middle.

6 Hydraulic lash adjusters-check,

HYDRAULICLASH

ADJUSTER removal and installation

Check

Refer to illustration 6.7

1 Check the hydraulic lash adjusters for freeplay by inserting a small wire through the air bleed hole in the rocker arm while lightly pushing the check bail down (see illustration).

2 While lightly holding the check ball down, move the rocker arm up and down to check for freeplay. There should be a small amount of movement. if there is no freeplay, replace the adjuster with a new unit.

Rem0 val

Refer to illustration 6.4

3 Remove the valve cover(s) (see Section 4) and the rocker arm shaft components (see Section 5).

4 Pull the hydraulic lash adjuster(s) out of the rocker arm(s) (see iiius- tration). Note: Be sure to label each rocker arm and adjuster and place them in a partitioned box or something suitable to keep them from getting mixed with each other.

5 installation is the reverse of removal.

7 intake manifold-removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 7.13

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4).

2 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

3 Drain the cooling system (don’t forget to drain the cylinder block) (see

Chapter 1).

4 Remove the air cleaner-to-throttle body inlet hose (see Chapter 4).

5 Remove the spark plug wires and distributor cap. Be sure to mark the spark plug wares for proper rernstallation (see Chapter 1).

6 Remove the throttle cable and transmission kickdown linkage (see

Chapter 4 and 78).

7 Remove the Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor andthrottfe position sensor (TPS) electrical connectors from the throttle body.

8 Remove the EGR tube flange from the air intake plenum.

9 Label and detach any vacuum lines from the throttle body.

10 Detach the fuel lines from the fuel rail (see Chapter 4).

11 Remove the throttle body. air intake plenum and the fuel injectors (see

Chapter 4).

12 Label and remove any remaining hoses. wires or cables attached to the intake manifold or its components.

13 Loosen the manifold mounting bolts/nuts in l/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand. Loosen the outer bolts first. then the inner- bolts (see illustration).

14 The manifold will probably be stuck to the cylinder heads and force may be required to break the gasket seal. Caution: Don’tprybetween the manifoldand the heads ordamage

CUT, leading to vacuum leaks. to thegasketsealing surfaces mayoc-

Installation

Note: The matmg surfaces of the cylinder heads and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manrfold is installed. Gasket removalsolvents in aerosol cans are avaIlable at most auto parts stores and may be helpful when removing old aasket mater/al that’s stuck to the heads and manifold

(since they’re made of alummum, aggressive scraping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the drrections printed on the container.

15 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket matertal, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinneroracetone. there’s old sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the manifold is in-

If stalled, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to re_= move any material that falls into the intake ports in the heads.

27, A%

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

22 ,25

2C-7

42

324

b--J

(

22 Fuel inlet connection

23 Fuel return hose

Vacuum hose

Fuel injector harness

Fuel rail and injectors

Vacuum hose and pipe assembly

Temperature sending unit connector

Coolant temperature switch connector (air conditioning)

Coolant temperature sensor connector

7.13 An exploded view of the intake manifold and related components

31 Therm0 switch connector

{automatic transmission)

Upper hose

Water by-pass hose

Heater pipe hose

Gasket intake manifold intake manifold gasket

Thermostat housing

Gasket

Thermostat

Coolant temperature switch

Coolant temperature sensor

Therm0 switch (automatic transmission)

Coo/ant temperature

Therm0 valve assembly sending unit

16 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from the holes.

Warning: Wearsafetyglassesora faceshield toproti3ctyoureyes when using compressed air!

17 Position the gaskets on the cylinder heads. No sealant is required; however, follow the instructions included with the new gaskets.

18 Make sure all intake port openings, coolant passage holes and bolt holes are aligned correctly.

19 Carefully set the manifold in place. Be careful not to disturb the gaskets.

20 Install the nuts/bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications starting with the inner bolts and working your way to the outer bolts. Work up to the final torque in two steps.

21 Install the air intake plenum (see Chapter 4).

22 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Start the engine and check carefully for oil and coolant leaks at the intake manifold joints.

8 Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 8.3

Note: The engine must be completely cool when this procedure is done.

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

2C-8 Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

6

8.3 An exploded view of the exhaust manifolds and related components

1 Oxygen sensor

2 Front exhaust pipe (left)

3 Fronf exhaust pipe (right)

4 Gasket

5 Air duct

6 Heat shield

7 Engine removal bracket

8 Alternator bracket

9 Exhaust manifold

10 Gasket

11 EGR tube

12 EGR gasket

13 Heat shield

14 Air intake plenum bracket

15 Bracket

16 Exhaust manifold

17: Gasket

2 Spray penetrating oil on the exhaust manifold fasteners and allow it to soak in. Disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connector.

3 Remove the bolts and nuts that retain the front exhaust pipes to the manifolds (see illustration) and lower the pipes.

4 Remove the bolts and detach the EGR tube from the left manifold.

5 Remove the nuts retaining the heat shield(s) to the manifold(s) the cylinder head and slip it off the mounting studs near

(see illustration 8.3).

6 Remove the nuts that retain the manifold to the cylinder head and lift the exhaust manifold off.

7 Carefullyinspectthemanifoldsandfastenersforcracksanddamage.

8 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and carbon deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop and resurfaced if necessary.

9 Position new gaskets over the cylinder head studs. Note: If the new gasketis marked, install thegasket with the numbers I-3-5on the top onto the right cylinder headand install thegasket with the numbers 2-4-6 onto the left cylinder head.

10 Install the manifold and thread the mounting nuts into place.

If Working from the center out, tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications in three or four equal steps.

12 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverseorderof removal. Use new gaskets when connecting the exhaust pipes.

13 Run the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

9 Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper - removal and installation

Removal

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).

4 Remove the bolts that retain the pulley to the vibration damper. Re- move the pulley from the engine.

5 Wrap a cloth around the vibration damper to protect the belt surface and attach a chain wrench to the pulley. Hold the crankshaft from turning

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

2C-9

10.9

An exploded view of the timing belt, covers and related components

Upper radiator hose

Radiator upper shroud

Cooling fan clutch assembly

Air conditionina drivebelt

Power steering drivebelt

Alternator drivebelt

Cooling fan pulley

Power steering pump

Power steering pump bracket

Power steering pump mounting bracket

Belt tensioner bracket

Air conditioning compressor

Air conditioning and idler pulley compressor bracket

Cooling fan bracket assembly

Upper timing belt cover (right side)

Upper timing be/t cover (left side)

Lower

Gasket

Gasket timing

18 Gasket K

19 Gasket J

20 Gasket N

21 Gasket 0

P t-l belt cover

'25

25 Crankshaft pulley

26 Front flange

27 Timing belt tensioner bolt

Timing belt

Tensioner spring

Timing belt tensioner and use a socket wrench to loosen the bolt.

6 Install a special tool (vibration damper/steering wheel puller) to the damper and slowly draw the vibration damper off.

Installation

7 Lightly lubricate the seal contact surfacewith engine oil and position it on the nose of the crankshaft. Align the keyway in the pulley with the key in the crankshaft and push the pulley into place by hand. If necessary, tap lightly on the damper using a block of wood and a hammer.

8 Prevent the crankshaft from turning as described in Step 5, then install the bolt and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions.

9 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

10 Timing belt - removal, installation and adjustment

Removal

Refer to illustration 10.9, IO. 13 and IO. 14

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2 If equipped, unbolt the cruise control servo and set it aside, without disconnecting the wires or cables.

3 Drain the coolant from the system (see Chapter 1) and remove the coolant reservoir (see Chapter 3).

4 Remove the radiator shroud and the radiator (see Chapter 3).

5 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

6 Remove the splash pan from under the engine.

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

10.13 Be sure to mark each bolt with the correct size and location for proper reassembly

7 Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly (see Chapter 3).

8 Position the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke

(see Section 3). Remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1).

9 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1) (see illustration).

10 Remove the power steering pump (see Chapter IO) without disconnecting the lines. Also remove the power steering pump bracket and the belt tensioner bracket.

11 Remove the air conditioning and idler pulley compressor (see Chapter 3) bracket

(see illustration 10.9). Do not disconnect the refrigerant lines from the compressor. Remove the cooling fan bracket assembly.

12 Remove the crankshaft pulley (see Section 9), the vibration damper and crankshaft sprocket flange. Note: Don’t allow the crankshaft to rotate during removalof the pulley If the crankshaft moves, the number onepis- ton will no longer be at TDC.

13 Remove the bolts securing the timing, belt upper and lower covers

(see illustration). Note the various type and sizes of bolts by recording a diagram or making specific notes while the timing belt cover is being removed. The bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations.

14 Confirm that the number one piston is still at TDC on the compression stroke by verifying that the timing marks on all three timing belt sprockets are aligned with their respective stationary tion). timing marks (see illustra-

15 Relieve tension on the timing belt by loosening the nut or bolt on the timing belt tensioner (see illustration 10.14).

16 Check to see that the timing belt is marked with an arrow as to which side faces out. If there isn’t a mark, paint one on (only if the same belt win be reinstalled). of the tensioner.

Slide the timing belt off the sprockets. Check the condition

Installation

Refer to illustrations 10.7 7a and 10.1 ?b

17 Prepare to install the timing belt by prying the tensioner away from the springto the end of the adjustment slot (see illustration), then temporarily tightening the locking nut or bolt. Make sure the tensioner spring is positioned properly (see illustration).

18 Install the belt on the crankshaft keep the belt tight on the tension side sprocket first, and simultaneously

(see illustration 10.14).

19 Install the belt on the left camshaft sprocket and then onto the water pump pulley and finally the right camshaft sprocket and timing belt tensioner. Be careful not to nudge the camshaft sprocket(s) or crankshaft gear off the timing marks. Install the timing belt with the directional arrow pointing away from ihe engine.

20 Align the factory-made white lines on the timing beft with the punch mark on each of the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft

Make sure all three sets of timing marks are properly aligned sprocket.

(see Illustra- tlon 10.14). Note: Be sure to install the crankshaft sprocket flange onto the crankshaff sprocket (see illustration 10.9).

TIMING MARK n”‘NG \““”

TIMING MARK (TIMING BELT

COVER INNER (4 llMNG BELT TENSIONER-, >Y

CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET-A

10.14 Timing belt alignment marks

SON SIDE

TIMING MARK (OIL PUMP)

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

10.17a Temporarily tighten the tensioner end of the slot after moving it to the 10.17b Correct spring position on the tensioner

11.4 If the sprocket is stuck, drill and tap two holes and remove it with a bolt-type puller

11.7 Apply a film of grease to the lips of the new seal before installing it (if you apply a small amount of grease to the outer edge, it will be easier to push into the bore

11.8a Fabricate a seal installation tool from a piece of pipe and a large washer.. .

Adjustment

21 Loosenthetensionernutorboltand letthetensionerassemblyspring toward the belt - the spring tension will automatically amount of tension to the belt..

22 Slowlyturn thecrankshaftclockwisetwo numberone piston to TDC on the compression full revolutions, apply the proper returning the stroke. Caution: Ifexces- sive resistance is felt wile turning the crankshaft, it’s an indication that the pistons are coming into contact with the valves. Go back over the procedure to correct the situation before proceeding.

23 Check to be sure all timing marks are still aligned (see illustration

10.14). Tighten the tensioner nut or bolt to the torque listed in this Chap- ter’s Specificatidns while keeping the tensioner steady with your hand.

24 Check the deflection of the timing belt by observing the force the tensioner pulley applies to the timing belt. If the belt seems loose, replace the tensioner spring.

25 Install the various ring to the appropriate components removed during disassembly,

Sections as necessary. refer-

11 Crankshaft

Refertoillustrations

1 Disconnect front oil seal -replacement

11.4, 11.7, 11.8aand 1f.8b the negative cable from the battery.

2 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter l), crankshaft pulley and timing belt (see Sections 9 and 10).

3 Wedge two screwdrivers behind the crankshaft pry the sprocket off the crankshaft. Some timing sprocket. belt sprockets

Carefully can be pried off easily with screwdrivers. Others are more difficult to remove because corrosion fuses them onto the nose of the crankshaft. If the pulley oh your engine is difficult to pry off, don’t damage the oil pump with the screwdrivers.

4 If the sprocket won’t come loose, drill and tap two holes into the face of the sprocket and use a bolt-type puller to slip it off the crankshaft (see illustration). Caution: Do not reuse a drilled sprocket - replace it.

5 Tumthe boltof thepulleruntilthepulleycomesoff. Removethetiming belt plate.

6 Carefully pry the oil seal out with a screwdriver

Don’t scratch or nick the crankshaft in the process!

7 Before installation, apply a coat of multi-purpose or seal removal tool. grease to the inside of the seal (see illustration).

8 Fabricate a seal installation tool with a short length of pipe of equal or slightly smaller outside diameter than the seal itself. File the end of the pipe that will bear down on the seal until it’s free of sharp edges. You’ll also need a large washer, slightly larger in diameter than the pipe, on which the bolt head can seat (see illustration). Install the oil seal by pressing it into position with the seal installation tool (see illustration). When you

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

5 Carefully remove the old oil seal with a screwdriver (see illustration).

Don’t nick or scratch the camshaft in the process. Refer to Steps 6,7 and 8 in Section 11. The same seal installation tool used for the crankshaft seal can be used for both camshaft seals.

6 Install the sprocket. Make sure the R or L mark faces out! The side of the sprocket with the deep recess must face the engine, which means the shallow recess must face out.

7 Insert a screwdriver through the top hole in the camshaft sprocket to lock it in place while you tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications.

8 Installation of the remaining components is the reverse of removal.

13 Valve spring, retainer and seals - replacement

This procedure is essentially the same as for the 2.6 liter four-cylinder engine. Refer to Part A, Section 6 and follow the procedure outlined there.

11&b . . . to push the seal into the bore-the pipe must bear against the outer edge of the seal as the bolt is tightened

12.5 The oil seal on the rear camshaft is located inside the distributor drive adaptor see and feel the seal stop moving, don’t turn the bolt any more or you’ll damage the seal.

9 Slide the timing belt plate onto the nose of the crankshaft.

10 Make sure the Woodruff key is in place in the crankshaft.

11 Apply a thin coat of assembly lube to the inside of the timing belt sprocket and slide it onto the crankshaft.

12 Installation of the remaining components is the reverse of removal.

Be sure to refer to Section 10 for the timing belt installation and adjustment procedure. Tighten all bolts to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications.

12 Camshaft oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustration 72.5

Note: The 3.OL engine is equipped with two camshaft oilseals on the front as well as two camshaft oil plugs on the rear of the engine.

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter l), crankshaft pulley (see Sec- tion 9) and timing belt (see Section IO).

3 Insert a screwdriver through a hole in the camshaft sprocket to lock it in place whiie loosening the mounting bolt.

4 Once the bolt is out, the sprocket can be removed by hand. Note: /f you’re removing both camshaft sprockets, don’t mix them up. Mark each sprocket with either an R (for Right) or L (for Left).

14 Cylinder head(s) - removal and installation

Note: Allow the engine to cool completely before beginning this proce= due.

Removal

1 Position the engine at TDC on the compression stroke for the number 1 cylinder (see Section 3). Drain the engine coolanf {see Chapter Q:-

2 Remove the timing belt cover, timing belt, camshaft sprockets and camshafts (see Sections lo,12 and 15).

3 Remove the intake manifold (see Section 7).

4 Remove the rocker arm components lash adjusters (see Section 6).

(see Section 5) and hydraulic

5 Remove the exhaust manifold(s) as described in Section 8. Note: If desired, each manifold may remain attached to the cylinder head until after the head is removed from the engine. However, the manifold must still be disconnected from the exhaust system.

Left (driver’s side) cylinder head

6 Remove the distributor (crank angle sensor) (see Chapter 5).

7 Remove the air conditioning compressor from the bracket without disconnecting any hoses (see Chapter 3) and set it aside. It may be helpful to secure the compressor doesn’t hang by its hoses. to the vehicle with rope or wire to make sure it

8 Remove the air conditioning compressor bracket (see Chapter 3).

Right (passenger’s side) cylinder head

9 Detach the heater hoses and brackets from the rear of the head.

IO Remove the air cleaner housing from the engine compartment

Chapter 4).

(see

11 Remove the alternator and bracket from the cylinder head (see Chap- ter 5).

Both sides

Refer to illustration 14.12

12 Loosen the cylinder head bolts with a 10 mm hex drive tool in l/Cturn increments until they can be removed by hand. Be sure to follow the proper numerical sequence (see illustration).

13 Head bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations. To keep them from getting mixed up, store them in cardboard holders marked to indicatG the bolt pattern. Mark the holders L (left) and R (right) and indicate the timing belt end of the engine.

14 Lift the head off the block. If resistance is felt, dislodge the head by striking it with a wood block and hammer. If prying is required, pry only on a casting protrusion - be very careful not to damage the head or block!

15 If necessary, remove the camshaft(s) as described in Section 15.

Installation

Refer to illustration 14.23

16 Remove all traces of old gasket material from the cylinder heads a$ the engine block. The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and block

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine 2C-13

10 mm

P-

ALLEN HEX

CYLINDER HEAD

BOLT A,ND WASHER TIMING

BELT

END

CYLINDiR HEAD

BOLT $ND WASHER

TIMING

BELT

END

14.12 Cylinder head bolt removal sequence 14.23 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence must be perfectly clean when the heads are installed.

17 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquerthinner or acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the heads are installed, the gaskets may not seal correctly and leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any debris that falls into the cylinders.

18 Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with a file- if it’s excessive, machining may be the only alternative.

19 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Mount each bolt in a vise and run a die down the threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads. Dirt, corrosion, sealant and damaged threads will affect torque readings. Ensure that the threaded holes in the block are clean and dry.

20 Position the new gaskets over the dowel pins on the block.

21 Carefully position the heads on the block without disturbing the gaskets.

22 Lightly oil the threads and install the bolts in their original locations.

Tighten them finger tight.

23 Follow the recommended sequence and tighten the bolts in three steps to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (see illustration).

24 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

25 Add coolant and change the engine oil and filter (see Chapter I), then start the engine and check carefully for oil and coolant leaks.

16.2 A dial indicator and V-blocks are needed to check camshaft runout

Ins talla tion

6 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals and lobes with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube, then install it carefully in the head. Don’t scratch the bearing surfaces with the cam lobes!

7 Install the distributor drive adapter retaining bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

8 Check to make sure the mark on the crankshaft sprocket is still aligned with its mark on the oil pump. Slide the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts and align the marks on the sprockets with theircorrespond- ing marks on the cylinder heads.

9 The remaining steps are the reverse of the removal procedure.

15 Camshaft(s) - removal and installation

Removal

1 Position the engine at TDC on the compression stroke for the number

1 cylinder (see Section 3). Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprockets

(seesections 10 and 12). Note: Ifyou’reonlyremovingonecamshaftand you want to save time by not removing and installing the timing belt and re-timing the engine, you can unfasten the camshaft sprocket and suspend it out of the way - with the belt still attached - by a piece of rope. Be sure the rope keeps firm tension on the be/t so the be/t won’t become disengaged from any of the sprockets.

2 If you’re removing the left (driver’s side) cylinder head, remove the bolts and gently pry off the distributor drive adapter (see illustration

12.5).

3 Remove the rocker arm assembly (see Section 5).

4 Carefully pry the camshaft plugs from the rear section of the cylinder head. Don’t scratch or nick the camshaft in the process!

5 Carefully lift the camshaft from the cylinder head. Jnspect the camshaft as described in Section 16.

16 Camshaft and bearing surfaces - inspection

Refer to illustrations 16.2 and 16.3

1 Visuallycheckthecamsha’ftbearingsurfacesforpitting,scoremarks, galling and abnormal wear. If the bearing surfacesaredamaged, the head will have to be replaced.

2 Check camshaft runout by placing the camshaft between two V- blocks and set up a dial indicator on the center journal (see illustration).

Zero the dial indicator. Turn the camshaft slowly and note the total indicator reading. Record your readings and compare them with the specified runout in this Chapter. If the measured runout exceeds the runout specified in this Chapter, replace the camshaft.

2C-14 Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine

3mm DIAMETER

OFRTV

SEALANT MUST NOT

BE FORCED OUT FROM

16.3 Measuring cam lobe height with a micrometer

17.14 The bead of RTV sealant should not interfere with the holes for the oil pan bolts

17.15 Oil pan bolt tightening sequence

3 Check the camshaft lobe height by measuring each lobe with a micrometer (see illustration). Compare the measurement to the cam lobe height specified in this Chapter. Then subtract the measured cam lobe height from the specified height to compute wear on the cam lobes. Com- pare it to the specifiedwear replace the camshaft. limit. If it’s greaterthan the specifiedwear limit,

4 Inspect the contact and sliding surfaces of each hydraulic lash adjuster for scoring or damage (see Section 6). Replace any defective parts.

5 Check the rocker arms and shafts for abnormal wear, pits, galling, score marks and rough spots. Don’t attempf to restore rocker arms by grinding the pad surfaces. Replace any defective parts.

17 Oil pan - removal and installation

Removal

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Remove the under-vehicle splash pan.

4 Drain the engine oil and install a new oil filter (see Chapter 1).

5 Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds (see Section 8).

6 SupporttheengineAransmission securely with a hoist from above or a jack under the bellhousing. Protect the bellhousing by placing a wood block on the jack pad. Warning: Be absolutely missionis securely supported! DO NOTplace cerfain the engine/trans- anypartofyourbodyunder the engine/transmission - it could crush you if the jack or hoist fails!

7 Unbolt the engine mounts (see Section 21). Raise the engineffrans- mission assembly to provide clearance for oil pan removal.

8 Remove the oil pan bolts.

9 Detach the oil pan. Don’t pry between the pan and block or damage to the sealing surfaces may result and oil leaks could develop. If the pan is stuck, dislodge it with a hammer and a block of wood,

10 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the block and pan. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer

FRONT ’

18.3 Be sure to mark the positlon of each bolt to aid

In Installation thinner or acetone.

11 Unbolt the oil pick-up tube and screen assembly.

Installation

Refer to illustrations 17.14 and 17.15

12 Replace the gasket on the flange of the oil pick-up tube and reinstall the tube. Tighten the pick-up tube bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’%

Specifications.

13 Ensure that the threaded holes in the block are clean (use atap to remove any sealant or corrosion from the threads).

14 Apply a small amount of RTV sealant (or equivalent) to the oil pump- to-block and rear seat retainer-to-block junctions (see illustration) and apply a thin continuous bead along the circumference of the oil pan flange.

Note: Allow the sealant to “set-up” (slightly harden) before installing #Ye gasket.

15 Install the oil pan and tighten the bolts in three or four steps following the sequence shown ter’s Specifications.

(see illustration) to the torque listed in this Chap-

16 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

17 Allow at least 30 minutes for the sealant to dry. Fill the crankcase with oil (see Chapter i), start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaf&

18 Oil pump - removal, inspection and instalfatlon

Removal

Refer to illustration 18.3

1 Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft sprocket (see Sections 10 and 11). Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube (see Section 17).

2 Unboltthepowersteering pump (seechapter 10) withoutdisconnect- ing the hoses. Remove the power steering pump bracket.

Chapter 2 Part C 3.OL V6 engine 2C-15

An exploded view of the oil pump

1 Crankshaft sprocket

2 Oil pressure switch

3 Oil filter

4 Oil filter bracket

5 Oil filter bracket gasket

.6 Drain plug

7 Draiii plug gasket

8 Oil pan

9 Oil screen

10 Oil screen gasket

11 Plug

12 Relief spring

13 Relief plunger

14 Front oil seal

15 Oil pump case

16 Oil pump gasket

17 Oil pump cover

18 Oil pump outer rotor

19 Oil pump inner rotor

6’ ‘7

0.10 TO 0.18 mm

0.04 TO 0.09 mm

(0.0015 TO 9.0035 INCH)

18.10a Checking case-to-outer rotor clearance with a feeler gauge

3 Remove the oil pump-to-engine gine (see illustration). block bolts from the front of the en-

4 Use a block of wood and a hammer to break the oil pump loose.

5 Pull out on the oil pump to remove it from the engine block.

6 Use a scraper to remove old gasket material and sealant from the oil pump and engine block mating surfaces. Clean the mating surfaces with t lacquer thinner or acetone.

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 18.7, 18. IOa, 18. lob and 18.10~

7 Remove the screws holding the rear cover to the oil pump tration). i

8 Clean all components

(see iiius- with solvent, then inspect them for wear and damage.

9 Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug, washer, spring and valve

(plunger). Check the oil pressure relief valve sliding surface and valve spring. If either the spring or the valve is damaged, they must be replaced as a set.

18.10b Checking rotor end clearance with a straightedge and a feeler gauge

10 Check the following clearances measurements to the clearances

Case-to-outer rotor

Rotor end clearance

Case-to-inner rotor

(see illustrations) and compare listed in this Chapter’s Specifications: the

If any of the clearances sembly. are excessive, replace the entire oil pump as-

11 Pack the cavities of the oil pump with petroleum jelly to prime it. As- semble the oil pump and tighten the screws to,the torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications. Install the oil pressure relief valve, spring and washer, then tighten the oil pressure relief valve plug to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Ins talla tion

12 Apply a thin fillfl of RTV sealant to the new oil pump gasket.

13 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Align the flats on

the crankshaft with the flats in the inner rotor of the oil pump. Tighten all fasteners to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

2C-16 Chapter 2 Part C 3.01 V6 engine

CASE

4

INNER

ROTOR

+--MEASURE

MEASURE “8”

18.70~ Check for excessive clearance between the case and inner rotor

“A+*

19 FlywheeUdriveplate - removal and installation

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Part A and follow the procedure outlined there, but use the bolt torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

20 Rear main oil seal - replacement

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. Refer to Part A and follow the procedure outlined there.

21 Engine mounts - check and replacement

Refer to illusffafion 27.7

This procedure is essentially the same for all engines. See Part A of this Chapter and follow the procedure outlined there, but use the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. ploded view for reference (see illustration).

Use the accompanying ex-

1 Front insu/afor

2 Stopper

3 Heat shield

21.1 An exploded view of the engine mounts (4WD Montero shown, others similar)

4 Number 2 crossmember

5 Heat shield

6 Rear insulator

7 Stopper

8 Transfer mounting bracket

9 Transfer support insulator

10 f/ate assembly

11 Transfer support bracket

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

Contents

Automatic transmission

Bands-adjustment

Diagnosis-general

- removal and installation

....................................

Fluid and filter change

Fluid level check

.........................

.............................

General information ....................................

Neutral safety switch -check and replacement

............

..........

See Chapter 1

, ...

Oil seal replacement

Shift linkage-check

.......................... and adjustment .....................

See Chapter 7A

-. . 3

Throttle control cable/linkage-adjustment .................. 4

Transmission mounts -check and rep!acement .... See Chapter 7A

Transmission interlock cable (1992 and later models only) - check and adjustment

............... __~_~_ ..... __ ........ __ ... 8

SDecifications

Band adjustments

Kickdown band adjusting screw

Through1986 .... .._.........................._._._.

1987ihrough1989 ...................

1990 and later

Pick-ups .......................................

Monteros

Low/reverse

..................... band adjusting screw

Through1986

1987through1989

1,090 and later

.......................................

...............................

Pick-ups

Monteros

Transmission

..~.~.~~.~~~.~~...,........~..........~~

..~...~.--.~~-~

_. ......................

......................... ._ ......... interlock cable clearance “A” ................... interlock cable clearance “6” ..................

.._.

....

_ . -_ ..

Torque specifications

Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts ....................

Kickdown band adjusting screw locknut

Through 1986 ................................

1990andlater

Low/reverse

Through1986

IQQOandlater

....................................... band adjusting screw locknut

..... ..~...._........_._..........____

.................................

Oil pan bolts

1983through1986

1987through1989

.............

..........

1990on ...........................................

Transmission-to-engine bolts

1983through1986

19870n .....

.. ..~............_...._....__

..L ...................................

.._........~.......-

.............._.......__.

._. .... .,_

_ ____ __

......

3-l/2 turns backed-off from 52 in-lbs

No adjustments necessary

2-7/8 turns backed-off from 72 in-lbs

No adjustments necessar

7 turns backed-off

No adjustments from 43 in-lbs necessary

6 turns backed-off

No adjustments

0.08 to 0.1 inch

0.02 to 0.06 inch from 30 in-lbs necessary

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

150 in-lbs

42 in-lbs

156 in-lbs

22to30

31 to 40

1 General information

All vehicles covered in this manual come equipped with either a five- speed manual transmission or an automatic transmission. All information on the automatic formation ter. transmission on the manual is included in this, Part B of, Chapter 7. In- transmission can be found in Part A of this Chap-

Due to the complexity of the automatic transmissions covered in this manual and the need for specialized equipment to perform most service operations, this Chapter contains only general diagnosis, adjustment and removal and installation procedures.

If the transmission requires major repair work, it should be left to a dealer service department or an automotive or transmission repair shop. You can, however, remove and install the transmission yourself and save the expense, even if the repair work is done by a transmission shop.

7B-2 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

3.1 Exploded view of the shift linkage assembly

2 Diagnosis - general

Note: Automatic transmission malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions: poor engine performance, malfunctions, mechanical malfunctions improper adjustments, ormalfunctions hydraulic in the computeror its signal network. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaireditems: fluid leveland condition (see Chapter l), shift linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diag nosis is necessary. If the problem persists after the preliminary tests and corrections are completed, additionaldiagnosis er service.department or transmission repair should shop. be done by a deal-

Refer to the Trouble- shootingSectionat tratismission the frontofthis prbblems. manualforinformationonsymptoms of

Preliminary checks

1 Drive the vehicle to warm the transmission to normal operating temperature.

2 Check thNUid level as described in Chapter 1: a) If the fluid level is unusually low, add enough fluid to bring the level within the designated leaks (see below). area of the dipstick, then check for external b) If the fluid level is abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant.

The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid in- ditties that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid (see Chapter 3). c) If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transmission, for coolant in the fluid or a high fluid level.

3 Check the engine idle speed. notproceed with the preliminary then check

Note: lfthe engineismalfunctioning, checks untilit has been repairedand do runs normally

4 Check the throttle control cable for freedom of movement. Adjust it if necessary (see Section 4). Note: The thrott/e cab/e may function properly when the engine is shut off and co/d, but it may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating temperature.

5 Inspect the shift linkage (see Section 3). Make sure that it’s properly adjusted and that the linkage operates smoothly.

.

Fluid leak diagnosis

6 Most fluid legks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of replacing a seal or gasket. If a leak is difficult to find, the following procedure may help.

7 brake

Identify the fluid. Make sure it’s transmission fluid (automatic transmission fluid and not engine oil or fluid is a deep red color).

8 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several milesA;,_ then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid drip- ping onto the cardboard

9 Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the area immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to see.

10 If the leak still cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it.

11 Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component

12 Once again. the leak has been located, the cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened.

13 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note; Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without high&specialized and expertise, Such problems must be referred to a transmission shop or a dealer service department. tools repair

Gasket leaks

14 Check the pan periodically. Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are missing, the gasket is in good condition and the pan is flat (dents in the pan may indicate damage to the vafve body inside).

15 If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transmission housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transmission casting may be cracked or porous, If sealant instead otgasket materi:- al has been used to form a seal between the pan and the transmission housing, it may be the wrong sealant.

Seal leaks

16 If a transmission seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too high, the vent may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal~may be damaged or a loose bearing may be causing excessive shaft movement.

17 Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the speedometer gear or sensor for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, check the O- ring for damage.

Case leaks

18 If the case~itself appears to be leaking, the casting is porous and will have to be repaired or replaced.

19 &lake sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.

Fluid comes out vent pipe or fill tube

20 If this condition occurs, the transmission is overfilled, there is coolant in the fluid, the case is porous, the dipstick is incorrect, the vent is plugged or the drain-back holes are plugged.

3 Shift linkage - check and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 3. I, 3.3. 3.8, 3.9 and 3.10

1983 through 1986 models

1 The control rod is adjusted where it connects to the control arm (see illustration).

2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Loosen the adjusting locknut on the control rod-to-control arm joint.

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission 7B-3

L2D@R P

3.3 Loosen the locknut on the shift control rod, place the shift control lever and the selector lever in the “N” positions, then tighten the locknut

2WD

Control lever sub assembly

4WD

Control lever sub assembly

3.9a After the locknut has been loosened and the shifter on the column has been placed in the N range, set the selector lever on the transmission in the N position and tighten the locknut

3.8 Shift control cable installation details (1989 model shown, other models similar)

I Steering wheel

2 Column cover

3 Electrical connector shift indicator light

Combination switch

Indicator linkage

9 for

Boot

Cotter pin

Electrical connector for overdrive switch

Shift lever

Steel ball

Ball support

Spring

Locknut

Adjuster block

Clip

Cable

3 Place the shift control lever (on the left side of the transmission) in the neutral position. Place the selector lever (inside the vehicle) in the neutral position also (see illustration).

4 At this point, the control rod adjustment is made automatically. Tight- en the control rod-to-control arm adjusting locknut securely.

5 Set the parking brake, then apply the brakes, then check to make sure the engine does not start while the shift lever is in the “D”, “c’, “2”, or “R” position. At the same time check to be sure that the engine starts in the “N” and “P” positions.

6 Set the shifter lever in the “FL” position to check that the backup lights are illuminated, and not illuminated in any other position (make this check with the engine off).

1987 and IateL models

7 Remove the steering column cover (see Chapter 11).

8 Loosen the adjuster locknut at the shift lever end of the cable (see illustration).

9 Put the shifi lever (on the steering column) and the control lever (on the left side of the transmission), in the “N” position (see illustration).

7B-4

53.3-53.7 (2.098-2.114)

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

Lhoke vntve

Lam mm (in.)

3.10 if necessary, indicator

Nut adjust the length of the needle linkage

Throttle rod C

Throttle lever

4.2 Make sure the automatic choke is fully disengaged before making the throttle control linkage adjustment

4.3 Throttle rod adjustment

‘ details 4.5 The transmission idle to wide-open throttle lever should move from in a 47.5 to 54-degree arc iU~- To $icfjust the link loosen the locknut and rotate the rod to the proper length (see illustration). Check to make sure the pointer on the shift indicator afigns v&h the proper position. ii Tighten the locknut.

12 Install the steering column cover (see Chapter 11).

4 Throttle control cable/linkage - adjustment

1 The throttle control linkage adjustment is very important to proper transmission operation. This adjustment positions a valve which controls shift speed, shift quality and part-throttle downshift sensitivity. If the link- ageis adjusted so it is too short, slippage between shifts may occur. if the linkage is adjusted so it is too long, shifts may be delayed and part-throttle downshifts may be very erratic. Warning: When working under the vehicle be sure to support it on sturdy jackstands.

1983 through 1986 models

Refer to illustrations 4.2, 4.3 and 4.5

2 Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. With the carburetor automatic choke disengaged from the fast idle cam (see illustration), adjust the engine idle speed (by turning the speed adjusting screw to the specified rpm (see Chapter 1). Turn the engine off.

3 Loosen the bolt so rods B and C can slide back and forth easily (see illustration).

4 Gently push rod A all the way to the rear. Push rod C up so that the throttle is against the stop, then tighten the bolt so that rods Band C can’t move in relation to each other.

5 Open the throttle valve In the carburetor completelyand transmissionthrottle k+er. It should move from the idle position qbs_erve the to the wide open position illustration). in an arcof approximately 47.5-degrees to 54-degrees&e

6 Make sure that when the throttle linkage is returned to the fully clbsed positton (idle) the throttle fever on the transmissioti also retu[ns to the idle position by force of Its return spring.

1987 through 1989 models

Refer fo illustration 4.9

7 Check the engine idle adjustment (see Steps 1 and 2).

8 Make sure that the throttle lever, brackets and rods are not bent.

9 Measure the length between where the cable stops (at full throtile) and the top of the cable cover (see illustration).

10 down.

If it is out of adjustment, adjust the cable bracket by moving it up o’r

1990 and later models

Refer to illustrations 4.12 and 4.15

11 Be sure the control cable is attached to the bellcrank.

12 Pull gently on the control cable and check for proper adjustment at the transmission in the idle position (see illustration).

13 Adjust the engine idle (see- Steps 1 and 2).

14 Adjust the cable using the adjusting nuts on the cable bracket, so the space between the cable stop and the cable housing is between i/32 t0

3J64-inch.

15 Now move the throttle to the full-open position and adjust the space between the cable stop and housing to l-5/1 6 to l-3/8 fnch (see iliustra- -. tion).

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

52-53 mm

(2.047-2.086 in.)

4.12 When the engine is idling, the throttle control lever on the transmission should be within the range shown

Kickdown band adjusting screw

4.9 Throttle control cable adjustment

(1987 to 1989 models) details

5.1 Neutral safety switch details

4.15 Throttle control cable adjustment details

2 To test the switch, unplug the electrical connector from the switch and test for continuity between the switch and the transmission should be continuity only when the transmission case (there is in Park or Neutral).

3 If the switch fails the test, check the shift linkage adjustment (see Sec- tion 3).

Replacement

4 Unplug the electrical connector transmission. Some transmission and unscrew the switch from the fluid will spill out so have a container to catch it.

5 Make sure the shift lever fingers ar,e centered in the switch opening.

6 Wrap the threads of the new switch with Teflon tape or coat the threads with RTV sealant. Install the new switch into the transmission case and tighten it securely.

7 Add the recommended transmission type of automatic to bring it up to the proper transmission level (see Chapter 1). fluid to the

5 Neutral safety switch -check and replacement

Refer to illustration 5.1

Check

1 The neutral safety switch is the center pin of the three-pin switch on the side of the transmission. The switch provides a ground for the starter solenoid in the Park and Neutral positions (see illustration).

8 Transmission interlock check and adjustment cable (1992 and later models only) -

Refer to illustration 6.1

Check

1 Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and depress the brake pedal. Check that the shift lever can be moved smoothly through each of

7B-6 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

6.1 Details of the steering column and shift lock cable ends

1 Steering wheel

2 Shift lever

3 Steering column

4 Shift lock cable ends

5 Brake pedal

6 Column swifch i

7 Lower column cover ~6.2 -Shift interlock cable end adjustment points

7.1 The kickdown band adjusting screw is located near the shift control lever

7.5 The rear band adjusting removing screw the transmission is accessible oil pan after the positions from “P” down to “L” and back. If it does not shift smoothly adjust the shift interlock cable (see illustration).

Adjustment

Refer to illustration 6.2

2 To adjust the interlockcable placetheshift lever in the”P”positron and measure the clearance at point “A” and “B” at the steering column (see illustration).

3 -Loosen the interlock cable end nuts and align the cable end to the specifications

4 Tighten listed in this Chapter. cable nuts and check for proper shift lever movement as described in step I.

7 Bands -adjustment

Refer to illustrations 7. I, 7.5 2nd 7.9

Note: A/ways support the vehicle withjackstands.

Kickdown bands

Note: When the carburetor throttle is opened quickly (90% or more), the kickdown valve opens app/y/ng fluid to the shift valves. The transmission then downshifts

4to3,3to;!or2to according f.- to the veh/c/e speedand throttle pressure from

1 Theadjustrng the transmrssron screwforthe

(see Illustration). krckdown band is located on the leftside off

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission 70-7

,7.9 Hold the adjusting screw still while tightening the locknut

2 Loosen the adjusting screw locknut and back it off five turns. Check the adjusting screw to make sure it turns freely. Lubricate it if necessary.

3 Tighten ifications. theadjusting screw to the torque listed in thischapter’sspec-

4 Back the adjusting screw off the number of turns listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications. locknut.

Hold the adjusting screw at that point and tighten the

Low/Reverse band

5 The low/reverse band is accessible after removing the transmission oil pan (see illustrations). the transmission

The band should fluid and filter is changed be adjusted

(see Chapter at the same time

1).

6 After the oil pan has been removed (see Chapter l), loosen the adjusting screw locknut.

7 Tighten the adjusting screw to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Spec- ifications.

8 Back the adjusting screw out the number of turns listed in this Chap- ter’s Specifications.

9 Hold the adjusting screw with a wrench so it can’t turn (see illustration), then tighten the locknut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi- cations.

10 Install the transmission oil pan and bring the fluid to the proper level

(see Chapter 1). .

8 Automatic transmission - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 8.6, 8.1 la and 8.1 lb

Removal

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 If you’re working on a 4WD model, remove the knob from the transfer case shift lever.

3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

4 Drain the transmission fluid (see Chapter l), then reinstall the pan.

5 Remove the torque converter cover.

6 Mark the relationship of the torque converter to one of the studs so theycan be installed in the same position (see illustration).

7 Remove the torque converter-to-driveplate nuts. Turn the crankshaft foraccesstoeach nui.Turn thecrankshaftin aclockwisedirection only (as viewed from the front).

8 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5).

9 Remove the driveshaft

10 Disconnect the speedometer

(see Chapter cable.

8).

11 Detach the electrical connectors tions on the following page). from the transmission (see illustra-

12 Remove any exhaust components sion removal (see Chapter 4).

13 Disconnect which will interfere the throttle control linkage rod or cable. with transmis-

14 Disconnect the shift linkage.

15 Support the engine with a jack. Use a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load.

8.6 Mark the relationship of the torque converter the driveplate to

16 Support the transmission with a jack- preferably a jack made for this purpose. Safety chains will help steady the transmission

17 Remove the rear mount to crossmember bolts on the jack. and the two crossmember-to-frame bolts.

18 Remove the two engine rear support-to-transmission housing bolts. extension

19 Raise the transmission enough to allow removal of the crossmember.

20 Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine.

21 Lowerthetransmission sion fluid cooler lines. slightlyanddisconnectandplug thetransmis-

22 Remove the transmission dipstick tube.

23 Move the transmission blockdowel to the rear to disengage pins and make sure the torque converter it from the engine is detached from the driveplate. Secure the torque converter to the transmission out during removal. so it won’t fall

Ins talla tion

24 Prior to installation, make sure the torque converter hub is securely engaged in the pump.

25 With the transmission secured to the jack, raise it into position. Be sure to keep it level so the torque converter does not slide forward.

26 Turn the torque converter to line up the studs with the holes in the driveplate. The mark on the torque converter and the stud made in Step 5 must line up.

27 Move the transmission forward carefully until the dowel pins and the torque converter are engaged.

28 Install the transmission housing-to-engine curely.

29 Install the torque converter-to-driveplate torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. bolts. Tighten nuts. Tighten them se- the nuts to the

30 Connect the transmission mount crossmember fluid cooler and through-bolts. lines.

Tighten

Install the transmission the bolts and nuts securely.

31 Remove the jacks supporting

32 Install the dipstick tube. the transmission and the engine.

33 Install the starter motor (see Chapter 5).

34 Connect the shift and throttle control cable/linkage.

35 Plug in the transmission electricaltconnectors.

36 Install the torque converter cover.

37 Install the driveshaft(

39 Connect the speedometer

40 Adjust the shift linkage. cable.

41 Install any exhaust system components nected. that were removed or discon-

42 Lower the vehicle. ‘.

43 Fill the transmission with the proper type and amount of fluid (see

Chapter l), run the engine and check for fluid leaks.

78-8 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

8.11a Transmission installation details (typical 2WD model)

8.11 b Transmission installation details (2.4L 4WD model shown, 3.OL 4WD models similar)

Chapter 11 Body

Contents

Body repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Body repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Body - maintenance . . . . _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . . _ _ _ _ _ . _ . . _ _ _ _ _ _ . _ _ . _ _ . . 2

Bumpers - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Center console - removal and installation . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Door latch, lock cylinder and handles -removal, installation andadjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Door - removal, installation and adjustment . . . . . _ . _ . _ _ . _ . . _ . 13

Door trim panel - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Door window and regulator - removal and installation . . . . . _ . _ _ 16

Front fender - removal and installation . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

General information ....................................

Hinges and locks - maintenance ..........................

Hood - removal, installation and adjustment

Instrument cluster bezel and trim panels

.................

- removal and installation

Outside mirror

......................................

- removal and installation

Radiator grille - removal and installation

.....................

....................

Rear cargo door - removal, installation and adjustment

Upholstery and carpets - maintenance

Vinyl trim -maintenance ................................

.....................

Windshield and fixed glass - replacement ...................

........

1 General information

These models feature a separate boxed steel frame and body. Certain components are particularly vulnerable to accident damage and can be unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are the body mold- ings, doors, bumpers, hood, tailgate and all glass.

Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair procedures ter. within the scope of the do-it-yourselferare included in this Chap-

2 Body-maintenance

1 The condition of your vehicle’s body is very important, because the resale value depends a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to repair a neglected or damaged body than it is to repair mechanical components.

The hidden areas of the body, such as the wheel wells, the frame and the engine compartment, are equally important, although they don’t require as frequent attention as the rest of the body.

2 Onceayear,orevery12,000miles,it’sagoodideato havetheunder- side of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the area can then be inspected carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and other problems. The front suspension job. components should be greased after completion

3 At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment of this with a steam cleaner or water soluble degreaser.

4 The wheel wells should be given close attention, since undercoating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.

5 The body should be washed about once aweek. Wet the vehicle thor- oughlytosoften thedirt, then wash itdownwithasoftspongeandplentyof clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt is not washed off very carefully, it can wear down the paint.

6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the road should be removed with a cloth soaked in solvent.

7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated parts, remember that the cleaner also removes part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

11-2 Chapter 11 Body

3 Vinyl trim - maintenance

1 Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents, caustic soap or petroleum- based cleaners. Plain soap and water works just fine, with a soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained. Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the vehicle.

2 After cleaning, application of a high quality rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also be applied to weatherstripping, vacuum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and to the tires. quired. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with locking pliers.

7 Thenext stageofrepairistheremovalof and from an inch or so of the surrounding paintfromthedamagedarea metal. This is easily done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or-$e tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and painting.

4 Upholstery and carpets - maintenance

1 Every three months remove the carpets or mats and clean the interior of the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt and dust.

2 Leather upholstery requires special care. Stains should be removed with warm water and avery mild soap solution. Use aclean, damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to clean leather upholstery.

3 After cleaning, regularly treat feather upholstery

Never use car wax on leather upholstery. with a leather wax.

4 In areas where the interior of the vehicle is subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for any length of time.

Repair of rust ho/es.or gashes

8 Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metalusing asandingdiskorwire brush mounted in edrilf mo: tor. If these are not available, a few sheets ofsandpaperwill do the job just as effectively.

9 With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust.

10 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which wilt act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove ail loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust Hammer the edgesof the hole inward tocreateaslight depression forthefiller material. i i Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the metal. rust inhibiting paint.

If the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it with

12 Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing the hole with wire mesh.

13 Once the hole is blocked off, the affected area can be filled and painted. See the following subsectron on filling and painting.

5 Body repair - minor damage

See photo sequence

Repair of scratches

1 If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint and built up wax. Rinse the area with clean water.

2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at leasttwo weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the scratch area.

3 If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causingthe metal to rust, adifferent repairtechnique is required. Re- move all loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Us- ing a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of afinger. Diptheclothinthinnerandthenquicklywipeitalongthesurfaceof the scratch. This will ensure that the surface of the filler is slightly hollow.

The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this section.

Repair of dents

4 When repairing dents, the first job is to pull the dent out until the affected area is as close as possible to its original shape. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in the damaged

~~~~ area will have stretched on impact and cannot be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about l/a-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all.

5 If the backside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being stretched.

6 If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor makes it inaccessible from behind, adifferent technique is re-

Fi@g and pain t!ng

14 Many types of body fillers are available, but generally speaking, body repair kits which contain filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repatr work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured finishto the surface of the filler material. Mix-up a small amount of filler on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package, otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.

15 Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area. Draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour thatapproximates the original one IS achieved, stop working the paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to theapplicator. Continue to add thin layers of paste at

20-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just above the surroundin metal.

16 Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed with a bodi file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper should be used, startmg with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-grit wet or dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber or wooden block, otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely sanding of the filler surface, the wet-or-dry paper should flat. During be periodically the rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is produced in the final stage.

17 At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which m turn should be encircled by the finely feathered edge of good paint. Rinse therepair area with clean water untifall of the dust produced by the sandmg operation IS gone.

18 Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair the imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with

Chapter 11 Body

sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler and the feathered edge of the paint are perfect.

Rinse the area with clean water and allow it to dry completely.

19 The repair area is now ready for painting. Spray painting must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. These conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the day very care-

-fully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels. This will help minimize the effects of a slight mismatch in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome strips, door handles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking tape and several thicknesses newspaper for the masking operations. of

20 Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a test area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Coverthe repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rubdownthesurfaceoftheprimeruntil itisverysmooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed rinsed with water as well. Allow the primer and the to dry before spraying additional coats.

21 Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the repair‘area and then, using a circular motion, work out until the whole repair area and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at leasttwo weeks to harden, then use avery fine rubbing compound to blend the edges of the new paint into the existing paint.

Finally, apply a coat of wax.

11-3

9.2 Use a scribe or marking pen to mark the hinge locations

6 Body repair-major damage

1 Major damage must be repaired by an auto body shop specifically equipped to perform unibody repairs. These shops have the specialized equipment required to do the job properly.

2 If the damage is extensive, the body must be checked for proper alignment or the vehicle’s handling characteristics may be adversely affected and other components may wear at an accelerated rate.

3 Due to the fact that all of the major body components etc.) are separate and replaceable units, any seriously

(hood, damaged fenders, components should be replaced rather than repaired. Sometimes nents can be found in a wrecking yard that specializes the compo- in used vehicle components, often at considerable savings over the cost of new parts.

9.7 Loosen the bolts on the catch assembly (arrows) to adjust the position-be sure to mark the edges first so it can be returned to the original location

7 Hinges and locks-maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every three months, the hinges and latch assemblies on the doors, hood and cargo door should be given a few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also be lubricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free movement. Lubricatethedoorandcargodoorlockswithspray-ongraphitelubri- cant.

8 Windshield and fixed glass -replacement

Replacement of the windshield and fixed glass requires the use of spe- da\ fast-setting adhesive/caulk materials and some specialized tools and techniques. These operations should be left to a dealer service department or a shop specializing in glass work.

Hood-removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 9.2, 9.7, 9. IOa, 9. f Ob and 9. I I

Note: The hoodis heavyahdsomewhatawkwardtoremoveandinstall- at least two people should perform this procedure.

Removal and installation

1 Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and the fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is lifted off.

2 Scribeormarkalignmentmarksaroundthehingeplatetoinsureprop- er alignment during installation

3 Disconnect any cables

(see illustration). or wire harnesses which will interfere with the removal.

4 Have an assistant supportthe weight of the hood. Remove the hinge- to-hood nuts or bolts.

5 Lift off the hood.

6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment

7 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the hood is done by moving the hood in relation to the hinge plate after loosening the bolts and by loosening the catch adjusting screws and repositioning panying illustration and illustration 9.2). it (see the accom-

8 Scribe a line or paint the edges around the entire hinge plate so you can judge the amount of movement.

Chapter 11 Body

9.10a Loosen the mounting bolts (arrows) latch assembly and adjust the 9.10b Turn the height adjustment

(early models) screw with a screwdriver closes securely and is flush with the fenders. To do this, scribe a line around the hood latch mounting bolts to provide a reference point for the side-to-side movement. Then loosen the bolts and reposition the latch assembly as necessary to adjust the side-to-side movement and use a screwdriver to turn the height adjustment screw to adjust the hood up-and- down (see illustrations). Following adjustment, retighten the mounting bolts and adjustment screw locknut.

11 Finally, adjust the hood bumpers on the hood so the hood, when closed, is flush with the fenders (see illustration).

12 The hood latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be periodically lubricated with white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking and wear.

10 Radiator grille - removal and Installation

9.11 Loosen the jam nuts to adjust the bumper screws

(early models)

9 Loosen the bolts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts and carefully lower the hood to check the alignment.

IO If necessary after installation. the entire hood latch assembly can be adjusted in-and-out as well as from side-to-side on the hood so the hood

Refer fo illustrations IO. la and 10. lb

1 The radiator grille is held in place by clips and, on some models, screws. Remove any screws anddisengage the grille retaining clipswith a small screwdriver (see illustrations).

2 Once all the retaining clips are disengaged, move it. pull the grille out and re-

3 To install the grille, press it in place until the clips lock it in position. lO.la Grille mounting details on the pick-up

Chapter 11 Body

11-5

10.1 b Grille mounting details on the Montero

11 Bumpers - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 11.3a and 11.3b

1 Disconnect any wiring or other components that would interfere with bumper removal.

11.3a Front bumper details on the pick-up

Skirt panel

Front turn signal light

Center bumper

Bumper stay

Center bumper support assembly

Side bumper

Side braEket

Bumper cushion

Side stay

2 Support the bumper with a jack or jackstand. assistant support

Alternatively, the bumper as the bolts are removed.

3 Remove the retaining bolts and detach the bumper have an

(see illustrations).

4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

5 Tighten the retaining bolts securely.

These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair - minor damage in this Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

1 If you can’t access the backside of the body panel to hammer out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or punch hole(s) at least one inch apart. . .

2 . . . then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it.

Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help ‘pop’ the metal back to its orlglnal shape. When you’re finished, the dent area should be close to its original contour and about l/%-inch below the surface of the surrounding metal

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown here makes feather-edge the job faster. the paint

Use finer at least

(about 320-grit) one inch around sandpaper the dent area to

4 When the paint is removed, touch will probably be more helpful than sight for telling if the metal is stralght. Hammer down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary.

Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

5 Following hardener. label instructions, mix up a batch

The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, of plastic and, filler and if you mix it incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you won’t have time to file and sand it into shape)

6 Working applicator quickly so the filler doesn’t harden, use a plastic to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring it bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches contour and is slightly above the surrounding the original metal

7 Let the filler harden until you can just dent it with your

Fingernail. Use a body file or Sutform tool (shown here) to rough- shape the filler

8 Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to work the filler down until it’s smooth and even. Work down to finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending up with 360 or 400 grit

9 You shouldn’t be able to feel any ridge at the transition from the filler to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint.

As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, remove the dust and mask off the adjacent panels or trim pieces

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don’t spray the primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available spray inexpensively from auto parts stores

11 The primer will help reveal imperfections these with glazing compound. Follow the label or scratches. instructions

Fill and sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper the glazing, sanding and respraying perfectly until it’s smooth. Repeat until the primer reveals a smooth surface

12 Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean

(400 or 600- the area with water and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply the finish coat. Don’t attempt to rub out or wax the repair area until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)

11.3b Rear bumper assembly on the Montero

I I

Rear bumper assembly

12.2a Typical front door trim panel and details

7 inner trim panel

2 Bracket

3 Clip

Regulator handle

5 Escutcheon

6 Inside handle cover

7 Arm rest

8 Lock knob

9 Door trim

10 inner weatherstrip

77 Clip

12 Trim clip

13 Plastic watershield

12 Door trim panel - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.2a, 12.2b. lZ.Zc, 12.3 and 72.4

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Remove all door trim panel retaining screws and door pull/armrest assemblies (see illustrations). ’

3 Removethewindowcrank,usingawire a rag) to pull out the retaining clip hookorcrankremovaltool(or

(sea illustration).

4 insert a putty knife between the trim panel and the door and disengage the retaining clips (see illustration). Work around the outer edge until the panel is free.

5 Once all of the clips any wire harness connectors are disengaged, detach the trim panel, unplug and remove the trim panel from the vehicle.

6 For access to the inner door, carefully peel back the plastic watershield (see illustration 12.2a).

7 Prior to installation of the door panel, be sure to reinstall any clips in the panel which may have come out during the removal procedure and remain in the door itself.

Chapter 11 Body e

12.2b Remove the screws from the armrest

12.2~ Remove the screw from the inside handle cover

12.3 Use a shop rag to force the horseshoe shaped clip off the shaft

12.4 Carefully pry the door panel off the door

13.4a Door hinge details on the pick-up

1 Spring pin

Door

Door upper hinge

Door lower hinge

Door check

Striker

Striker shim

Door switch cap

Door switch

8 Plug in the wire harness connectors and place the panel in position in the door. Press the door panel into place until the clips are seated and in- stallthearmrest/doorpulls. Reinstall theclipandpressthe manual regulator window crank onto the shaft until it locks.

13 Door - removal, installation and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 13.4a and 13.4b

1 Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect any wire harness connectors and push them through the door opening so they won’t interfere with door removal.

2 Place ajackorjackstand under the door or have an assistant on hand to support it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: lfajack orjackstand is used, place a rag between it and the door to protect the door’s painted surfaces.

3 Scribe around the door hinges.

4 Remove the hinge-to-door bolts and carefully lift off the door (see illustrations).

5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

13.4b Front door hinge details on the Montero

Door opening trim

(power window)

Co WI side trim

Wiring harness connector (power window)

Spring pin

Door

Door upper hinge

Door upper hinge shim

Door lower hinge

Door lower hinge shim

Striker

Striker shim

Door switch cap

Door switch

‘\

14.3 Scribe or use a marker to make marks around the bolts and hinges on the cargo door

6 Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust it, if necessary. The door lock striker can be adjusted both up-and-down and sideways to provide positive engagement with the lock mechanism. This is done by loosening the mounting screws and moving the striker as nec- essay.

Adjustment

6 Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust it if necessary as follows: ~ a) Up-and-down and the hinge-to-body side-to-side adjustments are made by loosening bolts and moving the door as necessary. b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted both up-and-down sideways to provide positive engagement with the lock and mechanism. This is done by loosening the mounting screws and moving the striker as necessary.

Pick-up models

Refer to illustration 14.7

Removal and installation

7 Remove the wire assembly from the rear door retaining bolts and the wire assembly

(see illustration).

8 While an assistant holds the door, remove the bolts from the hinge body.

9 Lift the door from the vehicle.

10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment

11 Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust it if _ necessary as follows: a) Up-and-down and side-to-sideadjustmentsare made by loosening the hinge-to-bodv b) The door lock striker sideways to provide bolts and moving the door as necessary. can also be adjusted positive engagement both up-and-down and with the lock mechanism. This is done by loosening the mounting screws and moving the striker as necessary.

14 Rear cargo door - removal, installation and adjustment

Montero models

Refer to illustrations 14.3 and 14.4

Removal and installation

Disconnect any wire harness connectors and push them through the door opening so they won’t interfere with door removal.

2 Place a jack or jackstand under the door or have an assistant on hand to support itwhen the hinge bolts are removed. Note: Ifajackorjacksfand is used, place a rag between it and the door to protect the door’s painted surfaces. Note: Remove the spare tire to help lighten the door weight.

3 Scribe around the door bolts

4 Remove the hinge-to-door

(see illustration). bolts and carefully lift off the door (see lustration).

5 Installation is the reverse of removal. il-

15 Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal, installation and adjustment

Front door

Refer to illustrations 15.4, 15.7, 15.8. 15.9a and 15.9b

Removal and installation

1 Remove the door trim panel as described in Section 12.

2 Remove the plastic watershield, taking care not to tear it.

3 Removethe assembly. insidelever linkclipanddetachthelinkfrom thedoor lock.

Chapter 11 Body

I Spare tire lock cylinder

2 Spare tire

3 Spare tire carrier

4 Rear opening trim

5 Retractor cover

14.4 Rear cargo door details on the Montero

6 Quarter trim

7 Rear pillar lower trim

8 Coffer pin

9 Clevis pin

10 Washer tube

11 Wiring harness connectors

12 Back door

13 Inside handle cover

I4 Back door trim

15 Watershield

16 Door upper hinge

17 Door lower hinge

18 Striker

19 Striker shim

20 Weatherstrip

/’ yJ

8’

L-

7

14.7 Caigo door details on the pick-ups

1 Wire assembly

2 Rear gate

3 Striker

4 Rear gate panel

5 Remote control

6 Latch assembly

7 Outside handle

Chapter 11 Body

15.4 Remove the interior door handle screws (arrows) from the body

15.7 Remove the four screws holding the latch assembly the door to

15.8 The exterior handle is attached to the door with two bolts that are accessible from the inside

4 Remove the screws that retain the interior handle assembly and lift it out (see illustration).

5 Remove the glass run channel.

6 Disengage the door lock rod from the door latch assembly.

7 Remove the door latch assembly mounting screws (see illustration) and lift out the door latch assembly.

8 If necessary, remove the two nuts retaining the exterior handle and lift it out (see illustration).

9 Remove the door lock cylinder through the outside of the door (see illustrations).

IO Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: DW~ginsfa//ation, grease to the sliding surface of a// levers and springs. apply

15.9a Front door lock and handle details on the pick-up

1 inside lock knob

2 Inside lock knob bush

3 Door trim znd watershield

4 Link clip

Outside door lock) handle

Door latch

7 Inside handle

8 Door lock actuator (power

Adjustment

Refer to illustration 15. f 7

11 To adjust the outside door handle freeplay, remove the retaining clip from the actuating rod and turn the connector up or down to remove the freeplay (see illustration).

Cargo door

Refer to illustration 15.14

Removal and installation

12 Remove the door trim panel as described in Section 12.

13 Remove the plastic watershield, taking care not to tear it.

14 Removetheinsideleverlinkclipanddetachthelinkfromthedoorlock assembly (see illustration).

15 Remove the screw-s that retain the interior handle assembly and Ii&it out.

16 Disengage the door lock rod from the door lock assembly.

17 Remove the door lock assembly mounting screws and lift out the door lock assembly.

18 If necessary, remove the two nuts retaining the exterior-handle and lift it out.

19 Squeeze the retaining clip with pliers and push the door lock cylinder through to the outside of the door and remove it.

20 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: During installation, apply- grease to the sliding surface of all levers and springs.

Adjustment

Refer to illustration 15.21

21 To adjust the outside door handle freeplay, remove the retaining clip from the actuating rod and turn the connector up or down to remove the_ freeplay (see illustration).

Chapter 11 Body

1 Door trim and watershield

Inside lock knob

15.9b Front door lock and handle details on the Montero

3 Outside handle

4 Door latch

5 Inside handle

6 Door lock actuator (power door lock)

15.11 Adjusting the freeplay on the exterior handle

15.21 Adjusting the freeplay on the exterior handle of the rear cargo door - Montero shown, but pick-up similar

15.14 Cargo door lock and handle details on the Montero

1 Trim and watershield

2 Garnish bracket

3 Garnish

4 Outside harTdIe

5 Inside handle

6 Door lock assembly

7 Door lock actuator

(power door lock)

Chapter 11 Body

Vehicles equipped with power window 17.2 On low-mount mirrors, remove the screws (arrows) the outside area of the door from and then sliding the glass up and out of the door.

4 Remove the regulator retaining screws.

5 Detach the regulator and guide it out of the opening in the door.

6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

;

16.2 Door window and regulator details

Door trim and watershield

Outside

Outer rear view mirror weatherstrip

Rear lower sash

5 Door window glass

6 Pad

7 Glass holder

8 Power window switch

9 Window regulator

17 Outside mirror - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.1 and 17.2

1 On some mirrors, use a small screwdriver to pry the screw cover off the mirror base (see illustration).

2 Remove the screws and lift the mirror off the door (see illustration).

3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

16 Door window and regulator - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2

I Remove the door trim panel and plastic watershield (see Section 12).

2 Remove the screws from the window bottom channel assembly and lower the window glass (see illustration).

3 Pry the two glass seals from the window opening. Remove the window glass by tilting it to detach the regulator arm from the glass channel

18 Instrument and installation cluster bezel and trim panels - removal

Refer to illustrations 18. la, 18. lb and 18. lc

1 Remove the hole covers (if equipped) and screws from the bezel or trim panel (see illustrations).

2 Pullthebezelorpanelout,detachitfromthedashboardandremoveit.

3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17.1 Mirror mounting details (high-mount

1 Screw cover

2 Bracket

3 Rear view mirror type)

Chapter 11 Body 77 - 75

18.1a Instrument cluster and trim Dane1 details on the pick-ups .

Hazard warning flasher switch

Screw hole cover

Instrument cluster bezel instrument cluster

Fuse box cover

Fuse box assembly

Glove box

Defroster duct

Air selection cable

Mode selection cable

Temperature control cable

Speaker cover

Parcel box or clock

Screw hole cover

Center cover

Instrument panel

18.1 b lnstruyrz+ cluster and trim panel details on thk Montero

Lap heater duct A

Lap heater duct B

Hood release cable bracket

Demister grille (left)

Demister grille (right)

Glove box

Instrument

Combination

Combination cluster cluster bezel meter pad meter case

Center panel

Recirculation/fresh changeover cable air

Mode selection control cable

Water valve control cable

Center reinforcement

Horn pad

Steering wheel

Fuse box cover

Fuse box assembly

Instrument panel

II-16 Chapter II Body

Rear

I Shift knob

2 Floor console

19.1 Center console details

3 Pane/A

4 Shift lever boots

5 Box

6 Cover

7 Bracket

6 Accessory box

18.1~ Remove the screws (arrows) and separate the steering column trim panel

e

20.3b An exploded view of the front fender on a pick-up

1 Front combination

2 Mud guard (4 WD) light

3 Splash shield

4 Fender

5 Protector film

6 Partial wheel lip (2 WD)

7 Over-fender (4 WD)

20.3a Remove the bolts (arrows) from the front fender

19 Center console - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 79.7

1 On front consoles, remove the shift knob from the shift lever (see lustration). il-

2 Remove the panel screws from the console base.

3 On front consoles, remove panel A from the console along with the shift lever boot.

4 Lift the console from the passenger compartment.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

20 Front fender - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 20.3a and 20.3b

1 Raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the front wheel.

2 Disconnect the antenna and all light bulb wiring harness connectors and other components that would interfere with fender removal.

3 Remove the fender mounting bolts (see illustrations).

4 Detach the fender. It’s a good idea to have an assistant support the fender while it’s being moved away from the vehicle to prevent damage to the surrounding bodypanels.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

6 Tighten all nuts, bolts and screws securely.

Chapter 9 Brakes

Contents

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general description anddiagnosis ........................................

Brake check .................................

Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation

Brake fluid level check .........................

Brake lines and hoses -inspection and replacement

Brake pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment ....

........................

Brake system -bleeding ................................

Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

Disc brake pads - replacement ...........................

Drum brake shoes -replacement .........................

Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment (2WD models) .................

See Chapter 1

............. 4

See Chapter 1

.......... 8

See Chapter 1

......... 3

See Chapter 1

Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment (4WD models) . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . See Chapter 8

General information . . . . . _ . . . . . . . _. . _ . . . _ . . _ _. . . . . _ _ _ . . 1

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Parking brake cables - adjustment

. . . . _ . . . . _ _

. . . . . . . . . . _ . _ _ _ . . . . . _. _

12 Parking brake cable(s) - replacement . . . . . . . ..-............

Parking brake shoes (1992 and later models with rear disc brakes)-replacement..

Power brake booster-check,

. . . . .._ __._ ..______._._ removal

__r ____ 13 and installation . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . _ _ . . . IO

Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation . . . . . -_ . _ 6

Stxcifications

General .

Brakefluidtype ......................................

Brake booster pushrod protrusion

1987andearlier

1988on

.....................................

.... ..-....._...................~~.......-.

Disc brakes

Minimum brake pad thickness

Disc minimum thickness*

.............................

1986andearlier

1987on

.....................................

...........................................

Discrunout ...........................................

* Refer to the marks stamped on the disc (they supercede

Drum brakes

Minimum brake shoe lining thickness

Brake drums

Standard drum diameter

2WDmodels ......................................

4WD models .......................................

Maximum drum diameter’

......................

2WDmodels ......................................

4WDmodels ......................................

Brake shoe return spring free length (duo-servo

Primary(green)

Secondary(grey)

......................................

..................................... brakes) l

Refer to the marks stamped on the drum (they supercede

See Chapter 1

0.004 to 0.020 inch

0.028 to 0.043 inch

See Chapter 1

0.72 inch

0.803 inch

0.006 inch information printed here)

See Chapter 1

9.49 inch

10.0 inch

9.57 inch

10.08 inch

4.35 inch

4.23 inch information prinied here)

9-2

Torque specifications

Brake caliper mounting bolts

S~liding caliper .......................................

Floating caliper

-Upper mounting bolt ................................

Lower mounting bolt ................................

Caliper mounting bracket bolts

2WDmodels

4WDmodels

........................................

Caliper inlet fitting .....................................

Disc-to-hub bolts

2WD ..............................................

4WD ..............................................

Wheel cylinder mounting bolts ............................

Master cylinder mounting nuts ............................

Power brake booster mounting nuts .......................

Wheellugnuts ........................................

Chapter 9 Brakes

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

51 to 65

29 to 36

23 to 30

51 to65

58 to 72

120 to 144 in-lbs

36to44 II

13to15

72 to 108.in-lbs

72 to 108 in-lbs

See Chapter I

1 General information

The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulically operated front and rear brake systems. The front brakes are disc-type.

Earlier models use a sliding caliper while later models use a floating caliper.

The rear brakes on all models are drum-type. Earlier models use a duo-servo type rear brake while later models are equipped with leading/ trailing type.

These models are equipped with a dual master cylinder which allows the operation of half of the system if the other half fails. This system also incorporates a blend proportioning valve which limits pressure to the rear brakes under heavy braking to prevent rear wheel lock-up. Later models have a Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) mounted to the frame and connected to the rear axle by a link.

All models are equipped with a power brake boosterwhich utilizes en- ginevacuum to assist in application of the brakes. The parking brakeoper- ates the rear brakes only, through cable actuation.

There are some notes and cautions involving the brake system on this vehicle: a) Use only DOT 3 brake fluid in this system. b) The brake pads and linings contain asbestos fibers which are hazardous fo your health if inhaled. Whenever you work on the brake system components, carefully clean all parts with brake cleaner.

Do not allow the fine asbestos dust to become airborne. c) Safety should be paramount whenever any servicing of the brake components is performed. Do not use parts or fasteners which are not in perfect condition, and be sure that all clearances specifications are adhered to. If you are at all unsure and torque about a certain

~~ procedge, seek professional advice. Upon completion of any brake system work, test the brakes carefully in a controlled area before putting the vehicle into normal service. If a problem is sus-

~_ p~ected~in the brake system, do not drive the vehicle until the fault is corrected. d) Tires, load and front end alignment are factors which also affect brakingperformance.

2 Disc brake pads - replacement

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front wheels at the s?ime tfme - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, whxh is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressedairand don’t inhale any of

KAn approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes.

Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol on/y!

Note 1: When servicing the disc brakes, use only high-quality, nati&ally recognized name brand pads.

2.3 Use pliers to remove the spigot pins

Note 2: The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with eitherslid- ing or ffoating calipers. To determine which type of caliper your vehicle has, look at the caliper with the wheel removed. Ifthere are spigofpins like the one shown in illustration 2.3, you have sliding calipers. If there are no spigot pins, you have floating calipers.

Note 3: This procedure applies to both front and rear disc brakes,

1 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and siphon out approxh mately half of the fluid into a container. Be careful not to spill fluid onto any of the painted surfaces - it will damage the paint,

2 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and sup: port it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels. Work on one brake tit?- sembly at a time, using the assembled brake for reference if necessary.

Sliding caliper

fleferto illustrations2.3, 2.4a, 2.4b, 2.4~~ 2.5a, 2.5b, 2.6and2.9

3 Removethetwosplgotpinsfromthestopperplugs(seeillustration).

Each caliper has two stopper plugs and each plug has two sprgot pins.

4 Pullthestopperplugsandpadsupportpl~tesoutfromthecaliper(see illustrations). Move the caliper assembly up-and-down to separate it from the caliper mounting bracket as you pull it off the bracket (see illustration). If the caliper bracket interferes with the brake~line, remove the upper bolt. Hang the caliper out of the way on a piece of wire.

5 Remove the pads ratetheshimfromthesuterpad. from the caliper bracket (see illustration).

Removetheinnerandouterpadclipsand

Sepa- the pad clips labeled “5” from the caliper mounting bracket (see illustrf- tion).

6 With the shim installed on the outer pad, slip the new pads into place

(see illustration).

Chapter 9 Brakes

F; p

2.4a Pull the stop@$plug out with pliers, follow@ by . ,

2.4b . . . the pad support plate

Outer pad clip

‘\

2.4~ Work the caliper up-and-down while pulling it off the brake bracket

Anti- rattle

-2.5a Rotate the pads out of the brake bracket 2.5b Typical brake pad components

2.6 It’s a good idea to apply a coat of brake anti-squeal compound to the backs of the shims

7 Use a wood dowel or hammer handle to push the piston back into its bore to make room for the new, thicker, pads. If the piston does not move easily, loosen the bleeder screw and push again (be to sure bleed the brakes as described in Section 9 after installation). Lubricate the contact surfaces of the caliper and support plates with a thin coat of multi-purpose grease. Install the pad clips on the’bracket (see illustration 2.5b).

8 Slide the caliper assembly into position over the new pads and seat it on the mounting bracket. If removed, install and tighten the up’per caliper bracket bolt.

2.9 Pry the caliper up with a screwdriver and then insert the stopper plate

9 Install the pad support plates, stopper plugs and spigot pins (see lustration). Repeat the procedure on the other wheel. . il-

Flea ting caliper

Refertoillustrations2.10, Z.ila, Z.llb, 2.12,2.13a and2.13b

Note: Some 1992and latermodels are equipped with dual-piston calipers on the front wheels. Although the photographs in thisprocedureshowpad replacementonasingle-pistoncaliper, piston calipers. theprocedureisfhesame fordual-

10 Using a large C-clamp, bottom the piston back into the caliper bore.

Chapter 9 Brakes

2.10 Use a C-clamp to bottom the piston in the bore 2.11a Unscrew the caliper bolt with a box-end wrench or socket so the bolt head will not be rounded off

2.11 b Rotate the caliper up for access to the pads 2.12 Slide the pads away from the disc, out of the caliper bracket

2.13a Remove the lower . . .

The frame end of the C-clamp should be positioned on the backside of the caliper body and the screw should bear on the outer brake pad (see illustration).

11 Remove the caliper lower mounting bolt and rotate the caliper up to allow removal of the pads (see illustrations).

12 Remove the anti-rattle springs (if equipped) and pull the brake pads and shims from the caliper bracket (see illustration).

2.13b . . . and upper pad retaining clips from the bracket

13 Remove the retaining clips from the bracket(see

14 Cleanthemountingsurfacesofthecaliperandbracket,removingany dirt or corrosion. Install new retaining clips in the bracket. illustrations).

15 Coat the shims with disc brake grease and install the pads andshims into the caliper bracket. Install the anti-rattle springs (if equipped).

16 Install the wear indicator (if equipped), then swing the caliper down over the pads. Install the lower mounting bolt, tightening it to the torque-

ChaMer 9 Brakes

3.6 Floating caliper-exploded

Lower mounting bolt

Upper mounting bolt

Caliper support

Sleeve

Dust boot

.- k view

7 Dust boot

.’ .8 Boot ring i- 9 Piston boot

10 Piston

I1 Piston seal

3.7a Pry the boot ring out. . . listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

17 Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.

All models

3.7b

18 Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder, topping it up if necessary.

. . . then remove the boot itself 3.8 Apply compressed fluid hose connection air to the brake in the caliper body

- position a wood block between the piston and the caliper to prevent damage

2 Loosen the wheel lug nuts;raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels.

3 Remove the brake hose inlet fitting bolt and detach the hose. Have a rag handy to catch spilled fluid and wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hoseto prevent fluid loss and contamination.

4 Remove the caliper (see Section 2). On floating calipers, remove the upper mounting bolt, then detach the caliper from the bracket.

19 Road test the vehicle carefully before placing it into normal use.

3 Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

Warning: Dustcreatedbythe brakesystem maycontainasbestos, is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed which air and don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner us6 petroleum-based or denatured alcohol only!

Note: If an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage), explore al/options before beginning the job. Newandfactoryrebuiltcalipers are available on an exchange basis, which makes thisjob quite easy If it’s decided to rebuild the calipers, make sure that a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. one of them.

Always rebuild the calipers in pairs -never rebuild just

Removal

‘ 1 Removethecapfrom the brake fluid reservoir, siphon off two-thirds of the fluid into a container and discard it.

Overhaul

Refer to illustrations 3.6, 3.7a, 3.76 and 3.8

5 Clean the exterior of the caliper with brake cleaner or denatured alcohol. Never use gasoline, kerosene or petroleum-based

Place the caliper on a clean workbench. cleaning solvents.

6 On floating calipers, remove the sleevesand dust boots (seeillustration). Note: On later models with four-wheel disc brakes, the front disc brakes are floating, dual-piston calipers. The overhaul procedure for the dual-piston caliper is the same as for the single-piston caliper; simply repeat the procedure for each piston. in Step 8, since only one piston will be ejected at a time, block the first-ejected piston loosely back in place while you apply air pressure again to eject the second piston.

7 Using a small screwdriver, pry the piston boot ring from the caliper.

Then pry out the boot (see illustrations).

8 Position a wooden blockorseveral shop rags in the caliper as a cushion, then use compressed illustration). air to remove

Use only enough air pressure the piston from the caliper (see to ease the piston out of the

9-6 Chapter 9 Brakes

4.4a Check the disc runout with a dial indicator positioned approximately l/2-inch form the edge of the disc - if the reading exceeds the maximum runout, the disc will have to be resurfaced allowable or replaced

4.4b Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc with emery cloth

18 Install the flexible brake hose to the caliper. Be sure the hose does not interfere with any suspension

19 Install the wheel and tire. or steering components. s

20 Bleed the brake system (see Section 9).

21 Lower the vehicle to the ground. Test the brakes carefully before piac- ing the vehicle into normal operation.

4.5 Use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the disc bore. If the piston is blown out, even with the cushion in place, it may be damaged. Warning: Neverplace your fingers in front of the piston in an attempt to catch orprotect it when applying compressed air, as serious injury could occur.

9 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore. Metal tools may cause bore damage.

10 Clean all components dry with compressed in brake air. Check cleaner the cylinder or clean brake bore and pistons fluid and blow for signs of wear, corrosion or surface defects such as scoring and replace if necessary.

11 The dust seal and piston seal must always be replaced when the caliper is overhauled.

12 To reassemble the caliper, lubricate the piston seal and piston with brake lube (usually supplied with the overhaul kit) or brake fluid, install it in the groove in the caliper bore, then lubricate the seal and the bore.

13 Carefully insert the piston into the caliper using only finger pressure.

14 Apply brake lube to the piston and then install the boot in the piston and caliper. Insert the boot ring into the boot

15 On floating calipers, apply brake lube into the sleeve and dust boots

(see illustration 3.6). Then install the sleeve dust boot to the caliper and insertthe sleeve into the dust boot. Apply brake lube into the upper mounting bolt hole and then install the dust boot to the caliper.

Ins talla tion ’

16 On sliding calipers, refer to Steps 8 and 9, Section 2 for the installation procedure.

17 On floating calipers, install the upper mounting bolt, swing the caliper down into position and tighten the upper mounting bolt and lower mounting bolt to the torque listed in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this

Chapter.

4 Brake disc - inspection, removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 4-4a. 4.4b. 4.5 and 4.7

Note: The following procedure applies to both front and rear disc brakes.

Inspection

1 Loosen the wheel Itug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securelyon jackstands. Remove the wheel. On rear disc brakes, reverse and install two wheel lugs nuts to hold the disc securely in place.

2 Remove the brake caliper as outlined in Sections 2~and 3. It’s not net: essary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper, suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire from the underbody. Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose and don’t stretch or twist the hose.

3 Visually check the disc surface for score marks and other damage.

. _

Light scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may notal- ways be detrimental to brake operation, but deep score marks - over

0.015-inch (0.38 mm) - require disc removal and refinishing by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc. If pulsating has been noticed during application of the brakes, suspect excessive disc runout.

4 To check disc runout, place a dial indicator at a point about 1/24nch from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). and turn the d&The indicatorreading should

Set the indicator not exceed to zero the limit listed !n this Chapter’s Specifications. automotive machine shop

If it does, the disc should

Note: Professionals be refinished recommend by an res&faci~ of brake discs regardless of the dial indicator reading (to produce a smooth. f/at surface, that will eliminate brake pedal pulsations and other undesrrable symptomsrelated you elect not to have the discs to questionable resurfaced, discs). At the very least, If deglaze the brake pad surface wrth medium-grit emery cloth (use a swirling motion to ensure a non-dire?:. tional finish) (see illustration).

5 The disc must notbe minimum thickness. machined to a thickness less than the specified _..-

The mrnimum thickness is cast into the inside of the disc. The disc thickness can be checked with a micrometer tion).

(see illustra:

Removal

6 Remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts and lift the bracket off. =

7 On front disc brakes, remove the front hub/discassembly, referring to

Chapter 1 for 2WD models or Chapter 8 for 4WD models. Unbolt the disc from the hub (see illustration). On rear disc brakes, remove the retaining screws (if installed) and/or the lug nuts previously installed and lift off the disc.

Chapter 9 Brakes

4.7 Remove the bolts from the disc/hub assembly, separate the two components (it may be necessary tap the disc off with a hammer and a block of wood) then to

Ins talla tion

8 On front disc brakes, install the disc to the hub, tightening the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications in a criss-cross pattern.

9 On front disc brakes, install the front disc and hub assembly and adjust the wheel bearing (see Chapter 1 [2WD] or Chapter 8 [4WD]).

10 On rear-disc brakes, slide the disc back into place. It’s not necessary to reinstall the retaining screw.

11 Install the caliper mounting bracket, tightening the mounting bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Position the pads in the bracket and install the caliper (refer to Section 3 forthe caliper installation procedure, if necessary). Tighten the caliper bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

12 Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the brake pads into contact with the disc.

Bleeding of the system will not be necessary unless the brake hose was disconnected from the caliper. Check the operation of the brakescarefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

5.2a Thread two bolts into the brake drum to draw it off the axle flange

5.2b Use one screwdriver the way and turn the starwheel to hold the adjuster lever out of with a second screwdriver

5 Drum brake shoes -replacement

Refer to illustrations 5.2a and 5.2b

Warning: Drum brake shoes must be replacedon same time -never replace the shoes both rear wheels on only one wheel. Also, at the the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, yourhealth. Neverblowitout which with compressedairanddon’tinhale is harmful to any of it. Anapprovedfitteringmaskshouldbe worn when working on the brakes.

Do not, underany circumstances, use petroleum-basedsolvents brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! to clean

Caution: Wheneverthe brakeshoesarereplaced, theretractorandhold- down springs should also be replaced. Due to the continuous heating/ cooling cycle that the .sQrings are subjected to, they lose their tension over aperfodoftimeandmayallow theshoes todragon thedrumandwearata much faster rate than normal. When replacing the brake shoes, use only high-quality nationally recognized brand-name parts.

Note: The brakes on your vehicle are either duo-servo or leading/trailing type. If you’re not sure which type your vehicle has, study the brake assembly

5.28. with the drum removed and compare it to illustrations 5.4a and

1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise thevehicleand support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel(s).

2 Pull off the brake drum. if you have difficulty removing it, screw an 8 mm bolt into each of the two threaded holesin the drum (see illustration).

Tighten each bolt one-half turn at a time to back the drum off the axle flange. It may be necessary to retract the brake shoes away from the inside of the drum. This is accomplished by removing the rubber plug in the backing plate and turning the adjuster star wheel with a screwdriver until the shoes no longer contact the drum (see illustration).

3 Before removing anything, clean the brake assembly with brake cleaner - DO NOT use compressed air to blow the dust from the brake assembly! Take a long, close look at the relationship between the parts before disassembling the brake assembly.

Duo-servo type

Refertoillustrations5.4a,5.46,5.4~, and 5.21

5.5a,5.5b,5.7,5.12,5.15,5.16,5.18

4 Disengagethe brake return springs from thepivotand ward spring (see illustrations). remove thefor-

5 Disengage the adjustercable from the pivot (see illustration) move the rear brake return spring and cable guide (see illustration); and re-

6 Disengage the adjuster cable from the auto-adjuster lever.

7 Spread the parking brake leverprvot retaining clip and remove the clip and.wave washer from the pivot (see illustration).

8 Remove the brake shoe hold-down cups, springs and pins by pressing in on the cup and rotating it go-degrees. A special, inexpensive tool is available at auto parts stores for this purpose, but a pair of pliers will suf- fice.

9 Remove the front brake shoe by disengaging it from the adjuster spring and adjuster.

‘IO Separate the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe and slide out the parking brake strut and spring.

11 Remove the adjuster lever from the rear brake shoe.

12 Check the brake return springs for cracks and other damage. Check adjuster lever and the adjusting latch forwearand damage. Make sure the star wheel can be s.crewed into and out of the adjuster. Clean the star wheel threads and lubricate them with high-temperature grease if any resistance is felt. Measure the adjusting cable length and compare this measurement to the specifications (see illustration).

13 Check the wheel cylinders for signs of brake fluid leakage, repairing them or replacing them if necessary (see Section 6).

14 Check the drum inside diameter and compare the measurement the one cast into the drum. Inspect the drum for hard spots, cracks, score to marks and grooves. Hard spots will appear as small discolored areas. If they can’t be removed with emery cloth or if any of the other conditions

9-8 Chapter 9 Brakes

Bicking plate

2 Wheel cylinder boot

3 Wheel cylinder piston cup 4~ Wheefcytnder

5 Wheel cylinder

6 Hold-down pin

5.4a Duo-servo type drum brake-exploded

7 Anti-rattle spring

8 Parking brake strut

9 Parking brake lever

10 Shoe return spring

11 Adjuster cable

12 Cable guide

13 Hold-down cup

14 Hold-down spring

15 Primary shoe

16 Aqus ter spring view

17 Adjuster assembly

18 Secondary shoe

7 9 Adjuster spring

24 Auto a@@er lever

21 Whedc);lnder repair kit.

5.4b Use pliers or a special tool to disengage the rear return spring from the pivot

5.46 Remove the forward spring with adjustable pliers listedabove exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop to have it turned (machined on a lathe). Note: Professional mechanics recommend resurfacing the drums whenever a brake job is performed.

Resurfacing will eliminate the possibility of out-of-round

15 Inspect the backing plate ledges for grooves drums.

(see illustration). If the grooves are not too deep, they can be removed by filing or sanding the backing plate. If the grooves are too deep, the backing plate must be replaced or the brake shoes will hang up in the grooves.

16 Check the free length of the primary (green) and secondary brake shoe return springs

(grey)

(see illustration) and compare this measure-

Ma Remove the adjuster cable from the pivot mentto theone in theSpec,ificationsSection atthe beginning of this Chap- ter. Replace any springs that are stretched with new ones.

17 Install the adjuster spring and lever onto the rear brake shoe.

18 Place the parking brake strut into position with the spring on the fliF ward end (see illustration). Note that the parking brake struts will be stamped ‘I?’ for the right side of the vehicle and ‘C for the left side of the vehicle.

19 Install shoe. Slip t fever into the hole at the top of the rear brake and a new retaining clip onto the pivot. Bend the ends of the 36 with p@rs so the clip fits tightly on the pivot. ’

Chapter 9 Brakes

5.5b Detach the rear return spring and cable guide

(10.020 * ,006 1n.1

5.7 Use pliers to spread the parking brake lever pivot clip, then remove the clip and wave washer

5.12 Measure the adjusting cable to make sure it hasn’t stretched

5.15 Check the backing plate for grooves like this - if they’re deep, the backing plate will have to be replaced

5.16 ‘Measure the return springs to make sure they aren’t stretched

5.21 Lubricate the backing plate and adjuster cable at .,, the points shown

5.18 Place the parking brake strut into position with the spring on the forward end (left side struts are stamped ‘L’ and right side ‘R’)

20 Install the auto adjuster assembly and spring into position between the lowerends of the brake shoes. Make sure that the auto adjuster mechanism is properly installed or it will not operate.

21 Lubricate the backing plate shoe contact points with multi-purpose grease (see illustration) and place the brake shoes into position on the backing plate, making sure they are properly aligned with the wheel cylinder. Do not damage the wheel cylinder boots. Engage the parking brake lever.

22 Install the brake shoe hold-down pins, springs and cups.

9-10 Chapter 9 Brakes

5.28 Leading/trailing shoe type drum

Draxe - exploaea view

I Brake drum

2 Upper return spring and adjuster assembly

3 Lower return spring

4 Hold-down pins

5 Leading shoe

6 Parking brake cable

7 Vailing shoe and a@ster leverassembly

5.29 Use pliers or a special tool like this one to remove the hold-down springs

23 Hook the adjuster cable into the hole on the auto adjuster lever. Place the cable guide into position on the rear brake shoe and insert the shoe end of the return spring into the hole in the shoe.

24 Lift up on the end of the auto adjuster lever and place the adjusting ale eyelet over the brake shoe pivot at the top of the backing plate.

25 Place the end of the rear return spring over the pivot, then install the forward return spring.

26 Double-check to make sure all the springs and cables are properly installed. Operate the adjuster mechanism by pulling the adjusting cable toward the edge of the backing plate. The adjuster lever should ratchet over the adjusting wheel and engage the next tooth when the cable is pulled.

27 Turn the brake adjuster star wheel by hand until the brake drum will just fit over it, then install the drum. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Leading/trailing type

Referfoillusfrations5.28,5.29,5.30,5.3ia,

5.4Oa and 5.4Ob

5.30 Rotate the leading shoe down and unhook the return spring

5.316,5.31~,5.36,5.38,5.39,

28 Use pliers to detach the upper return spring (see illustration).

5.31a Remove the trailing shoe hold-down spring . . .

29 Remove the leading brake shoe hold-down spring and pin (see iiius- tration). This is accomplished by grasping the spring cup with a special tool or a pair of pliers, pushing down and rotating it go-degrees, disengaging it from the pin. Place a finger behind the pin to prevent it from being pushed out.

30 Remove the leading brake shoe and disconnect the lower spring (tie illustration).

31 Remove the trailing shoe hold-down spring and pin, remove the shoe, disconnect the parking brake cable from the adjuster lever and remove ~. shoe (see illustrations).

32 Detach the adjuster assembly from the shoe.

33 Check the wheel cylinders for signs of leaking fluid, replacing or i% building them if necessary (see Section 6).

34 Check the brake drum for hard spots, cracks, score marks and grooves. Hard spots will appear as small discolored areas. If they can’t be removed with emery cloth or if any of the other conditions listed above exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive turned (machined onalathe). machine shop to hav& it

Note: frofessionalmechanicsrecommend resurfacing the drums whenever a brake job is petformed. will eliminate the possibility of out-of-round drums.

Resurfacing

Chapter 9 Brakes 9-1-l

5.31b . . . rotate the trailing shoe and adjuster assembly down. . .

5.31c . . . then unhook the parking brake cable

5.38 Lubricate the contact surfaces the backing plate of

5.38 Hook the parking the adjuster brake lever cable to 5.39 Connect the leading shoe to the lower return spring and rotate the shoe up into position

35 Unscrew the brake adjuster, clean it and apply a little high-temperature grease to the adjuster screw threads. Assemble the adjuster screw, turning it in completely.

36 Lubricate the contact surfaces of the backing plate and wheel cylinder clevis with high-temperature grease (see illustration). Be careful not to get any grease on the brake shoe surfaces.

37 Install the adjuster assembly to the trailing shoe.

38 Connect the parking brake-cable to the lever and position the shoe againstthe spring. backing plate (see illustration). Install the hold-down pin and

39 Connect the leading shoe to the lower spring and rotate it up into position (see illustration). Install the hold-down pin and spring.

40 Install the upper return spring (see illustrations).

41 Wiggle the brake shoe assembly to center it on the backing plate.

Make sure the tops of the shoes are seated in the slots of the wheel cylinder clevis’ and the bottorhs of the shoes are resting under the tabs of the anchor plate.

42 Adjust the brakes by turning the star wheel on the adjuster assembly until the drum will just fit over the shoe assembly. Install the drum and wheel. Don’t forget to tighten the lug nuts to the torque specified in Chap- ter 1. Repeat the operation on the other wheel, then road test the vehicle carefully before placing it into normal service.

5.40b

5.40a connect

Use needle-nose the upper return pliers

Upper return spring and adjuster details spring to ’

Chapter 9 Brakes

6.7 Wheel cylinder-exploded

1 Boots

2 Piston assemblies

3 Pistons

4 Piston cups

5 Wheel cylinder body view

6 Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to illustration 6.7

No&: /fan overhaulis indicated(usually because offluidleakage orsticky opi?i%ion), explore all options before beginning the job. New wheel cylinders are available, which make this job quite easy. If it’.. decided to rebuild the wheelcylinder, makesure thata rebuildkitisavaitable beforeproceed- ingI’ Never overhaul at the same fme. only one wheelcylinder-always rebuild both of them

Removal

1 Raise therear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling. ’

2 Remove the brake shoe assembly (see Section 5).

3 Remove all dirt and foreign material from around the wheel cylinder.

4 Disconnect the brake line using a flare-nut wrench. Don’t pull the brake line away from the wheel cylinder.

5 Remove the wheel cylinder mounting bolts.

6 Detach the wheelcylinderfrom the brake backing plate and place it on a clean workbench. and contamination.

Immediately plug the brake line to prevent fluid loss

Overhaul

7 f Remove the bleeder screw, piston cups, pistons, boots and piston assemblies from the wheel cylinder body (see illustration).

8 Clean the wheel cylinder with brake fluid, denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts!

9 Use compressed air to remove excess fluid from the wheel cylinder and to blow out the passages.

IO Check the cylinder bore for corrosion and score marks. Crocus cloth can be used to remove light corrosion and stains, but the cylinder must be replaced with a new one if the defects cannot be removed easily, or if the bore is scored.

Ii Lubricate the new piston cups with brake fluid.,

12 Assemble the brake cylinder components. Make sure the lips on the piston cups face in.

Installation

13 Place the wheel cylinder in position and install the bolts.

14 Connect the brake line and install the brake shoe assembly.

15 Bleed the brakes (see Section 9).

7 Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to illustrations 7.7 la and 7.1 lb

Note: Before deciding to overhaul the master cylinder, check on the avail- abikty and cost of a new or factory rebuilt unit and a/so the availability of a rebuild kit.

Removal

1 The master cylinder is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the power brake booster.

2 Remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoir with a syringe.

3 Place rags under the fluid fittings and prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the ends of the lines once they are disconnected. fluid will damage paint. Cover all body parts

Caution:

Brake andbe careful not to spill ftufd during this procedure. _

4 Loosen the tube nuts at the end: of the brake lines where they enter the master cylinder. To prevent rounding off the flats on these nuts, the use- of a flare-nut wrench, which wraps around the nut, is preferred.

5 Pull the brake lines slightly away from the master cylinder and plug the ends to prevent contamination. On models with a remotely mounted fluid reservoir, disconnect the fluid hoses from the master cylinder and plug the ends to prevent fluid loss.

6 Remove the mounting nuts and pull the master cylinder off the studs and out of the engine compartment. as this is done.

Again, be careful not to spill the fluid

Overhaul

7 Before attempting the overhaul of the master cylinder, obtain the proper rebuild kit, which will contain the necessary replacement also any instructions which may be specific to your model.

8 Inspect the reservoir or inlet grommet(s) for indications parts and- of leakage nearthe base of the reservoir. If the reservoiris attached to the master cyf- inder, remove the mounting screw(s) and remove the reservoir.

9 Place the cylinder in a vise and use a punch or Phillips screwdriver to fully depress the pistons until they bottom against the other end of the master cylinder. Hoid the pistons in this position and remove the stop bolt(s) on the side of the master cylinder. Remove the two check valves or connector block and the copper gaskets.

10 Depress the pistons once again, then carefully remove the snap-ring at the end of the master cylinder. Snap-ring pliers are needed on later models.

11 The internal components can now be removed from the cylinder bore

(see illustrations). Make a note of the proper order of the components they can be returned to their original locations. Also note which direction so the lip of each seal faces so the new seals can be instaljed the same way:

Note: The two spnngs are of different tension, so pay particular atten&on to their order.

12 Carefully inspect~the bore of the master cylinder. Any deep scoring or other damage will mean a new master cylinder is required.

13 Replace all parts included in the rebuild kit, following any instructions in the kit. Clean all reused parts with clean brake fluid or denatured alcohol. Do not use any petroleum-based cleaners. During assembly, lubricate all parts liberally with clean brake fluid. Be sure to tighten all fittings and connections securely.

14 Push the assembled components into the bore, compressing them with the screwdriver

15 Compress or punch and install the stop bolt(s). the piston assemblies and install the new snap-ring, making sure it is seated properly in the groove.

Chapter 9 Brakes

7J-

Reservoir cap

Fiuid reservoir

Check valve cap

Rear line seat

7.11a Typical earlier model master cylinder-exploded

5 Check valve

6 Check valve spring

7 Valve case

8 Master cylinder

9 Stop bolt .

10 Secondary

II Primary piston piston assembly assembly

12 Piston stopper view

I3 Stopper ring

14 Reservoir hose

15 Bracket

16 Chamber covers

17 Master cylinder rebuild kit

7.1 1 b Typical later model mask cylinder - exploded view

I Fluid level sensor connector

2 Brake lines

3 Connector block

4 Master cylinder

5 Reservoir cap

6 Stop bolt

7 Reservoir

8 Diaphragm

9 Fluid level sensor float

10 Reservoir setil

11 Stop bolt

12 Gasket

13 Stopper ring

14 Primxy piston

15 Secondary piston

16 Before installing the new master cylinder it should be bench bled. Be- cause it will be necessary to apply pressure to the master cylinder piston and, at the same time, control flow from the brake line outlets, it is recommended that the master cylinder be mounted in avise, with the jaws of the vise clamping on the mounting flange.

17 Insert threaded plugs into the brake line outlet holes and snug them down so that there will be no air leakage past them, but not so tight that they cannot be easily loosened.

18 Fill the reservoir ter 1). with brake fluid of the recommended type (see Chap-

Chapter 9 Brakes

9.8 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is connected to the bleeder valve at the caliper or wheel cylinder and then submerged in brake fluid-air will be seen as bubbles in the hose and container when the valve is opened - all air must be expelled before moving to the next wheel circumstances, use anything other than genuine steel lines or approved flexible brake hoses as replacement items.

3 When installing the brake line, leave at least 0.75 in (19 mm) clear-~ ante between the line and any moving or vibrating parts.

4 When disconnecting a hose and line, first remove the spring clip.

Then, using a normal wrench to hold the hose and a flare-nut wrench to hold the tube, make the disconnection. manner when making a connection,

Use the wrenches then install a new clip. in the same

Note: MaI& surethe tube passes through the center of/& grommet

5 When disconnecting two hoses, use normal wrenches on the hose fii- tings. When connectingtwo hoses, make sure they are notbent, twistedor strained.

6 Steel brake fines are usually retained along their span with clips. AI- ways remove these clips completely before removing a fixed brake line.

Always reinstall these clips, or new ones if the old ones are damaged, when replacing a brake line, as they provide support and keep the lines from vibrating. which can eventually

7 Remember to bleed the hydraulic break them. system after replacing a hose or line.

19 Remove one plug and push the piston assembly into the mastercylin- der bore to expel the air from the master cylinder. A large Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on the piston assembly.

20 To prevent air from being drawn back into the master cylinder the plug must be replaced and snugged down before releasing the pressure on the piston assembly.

21 Repeat the procedure until only brake fluid is expelled from the brake line outlet hole. When only brake fluid is expelled, repeat the procedure with the other outlet hole and plug. Be sure to keep the master cylinder rez%vorrfrlled tem. wtth brake fluio prevent the introduction of air into the sys-

22 Since high pressure is not involved in the bench bleeding procedure, an alternative to the removal and replacement of the plugs with each stroke of the piston assembly is available: Before pushing in on the piston assembly, remove the plug as described in Step 19. Before releasing the piston, however, instead of replacing the plug, simply put your finger tightly over the hole @keep air from being drawn back into the master cylinder.

Wait several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore, then depress the piston again, removing your finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put your finger back over the hole each time before releasing the piston, and when the bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet, replace the plug and snug it before going on to the other port.

Installation

23 Install the master cylinder over the studs on the power brake booster and tighten the attaching nuts only finger tight at this time.

24 Thread the brake line fittings into the master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly in order for the fittings to thread in easily. Do not strip the threads as the fittings are tightened.

25 Fully tighten the mounting nuts and the brake fittings.

26 Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid, then bleed the master cylinder (only if the cylinder has not been bench bled [see Steps 16 through

2.23 and the brake system as described in Section 9. To bleed the cylinder on the vehicle,Tiave an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and then hold the pedal to the floor. Loosen the fitting nuts to allow air and fluid toescape. Repeatthisprocedureon bothfittingsuntilthefluidisclearof bubbles. Test the operation of the brake system carefully before placing air the vehicle in normal service.

8 Brake lines and hoses - inspection and replacement i About every six months the flexible hoses which connect the steel brake lines with the front and rear brakes should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters, and other damage (Chapter I).

2 Replacement steel and flexible brake lines are commonly available from dealer parts departments and auto parts stores. Do not, under any

9 Brake system - bleeding

Refer to illustration 9.8

Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding the brake system. /f the fluid comes in contact with your eyes, immediately rinse them with water and seek medical attention.

Note: Bleeding the hydraulic system b necessary to remove any air that manages to find its way into thB system when it’s been opened during re- movalandinsta/ation ofa hose, line, caliper, wheelcylnderormastercyl- inder.

1 It will probably be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder.

2 If a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled.

3 If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected line must be bled.

4 Remove any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off.

5 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and fitI the reservoir with brakefluid. Reinstall thecover.Note: Check thefluidleveloftenduringth6 bleeding operation and add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level from faalling low enough to allow air bubbles into the master cylinder.

6 Have an assistant on hand, as well as a supply of new brake fluid, a clear container partially filled with clean brake fluid, a length of 3/l 6-inch plastic, rubber or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleeder valve and a wrench to open and close the bleeder valve.

7 Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the bleeder valve slightly, then tighten it to a point where it is snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily.

8 Place one end of the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in brake fluid in the container (see illustration).

9 Have the assistant pump the brakes slowly a few times to get pres- suretn the system, then hold the pedal firmly depressed.

10 While the pedal is held depressed, open the bleeder valve just enough to allow a flow of fluid to leave the valve. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. When the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds, close the valve and have your assistant release the pedal.

11 Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the bleeder valve and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same proce dure, Be sure to checkthe fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently.

12 Never use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will lower the boiling point of the brake fluid and also deteriorate the brake system rubber components.

13 Refilt the master cylinder with fluid at the end of the operation.

Chapter 9 Brakes

10.7 Typical power booster mounting details

1 Brake fluid level sensor connector

2 Master cylinder

3 Vacuum hose

4 Check valve

5 Cotter pin

6 Clevis pin

7 Brake booster

8 Fitting

10 Power brake booster-check, removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 10.7and IO. 14

Operating check

1 Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off and make sure that there is no change in the pedal reserve distance.

2 Depress the pedal and start the engine. If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal.

Airtigh tness check *

3 Start the engine and turn it off after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down farther the first time but gradually rises after the second or third depression, airtight. the booster is

4 Depressthe brakepedalwhiletheengineisrunning, gine with the pedal depressed. If there is no change thenstoptheen- in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.

Removal

5 Power brake booster units should not be disassembled. They require special tools not normally found in most service stations or shops. They are fairly complex and, because of their critical relationship to brake performance, it is best to replace a defective booster unit with a new or rebuilt one.

6 To remove the booster, first remove the brake master cylinder as described in Section 7. On some vehicles it is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder, as there is enough room to reposition the cylinderto allow booster removal.

7 Locate the pushrod clevis connecting the booster to the brake pedal

(see illustration).This is accessible from the interior in front of the driver’s seat.

8 Remove the clevis pin retaining clip with pliers and pull out the pin.

9 Holding the clevis with pliers, disconnect wrench. The clevis is now loose. the clevis locknut with a

10 Disconnectthe hose leading from the engine to the booster. Be careful not to damage the hose whenremoving it from the booster fitting.

10.14 To adjust the length of the booster pushrod, hold the serrated portion of the rod with a pair of pliers and turn the adjusting nut in or out, as necessary, to achieve the desired setting

11 Remove the four nuts and washers holding the brake booster to the firewall. You may need a light to see these, as they are up under the dash area.

12 Slide the booster straight out from the firewall until the studs clear the holes and pull the booster, ment area. bracketsand gaskets from the enginecompart-

Installation

13 Installation procedures are basically the reverse of those for removal.

Tighten the booster mounting nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. Tighten the clevis locknut securely.

14 If the power booster unit is being replaced, the pushrod protrusion must be checked and, if necessary, adjusted. Connect a hand-held vacuum pump to the fitting on the booster and apply 20 in-Hg of vacuum. Mea- sure the distance from the master cylinder flange face on the power

‘booster to the end of the pushrod, comparing your measurement value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. with the

Turn the end of the pushrod in or out to achieve the desired setting (see illustration).

15 Install the master cylinder.

9-16 Chapter 9 Brakes

11.3 On 2WD models, rotate the turnbuckle to adjust the parking brake cable

11.4 On 4WD models, the equalizer and joint on the parking brake assembly must be at right angles to the each other as the parking brake adjustment is made

12.3s Typical lever-type parking brake front cable details

I Console panel

Inner box

Floor console

Bracket

Cable aquster

Cable connection

Lever pin

Nut holder

Cable equalizer

Cover

Parking lever stay

Bushing

Parking brake switch connection

Parking brake lever

Switch

Cover

Sealer

Cotter pin

Clevis pin

Front parking brake cable

18 \

16 After the final installation of the master cylinder and brake hoses and lines, the brake pedal height and freeplay must be adjusted (see Chapter

1) and the system must be bled (see Section 9).

11 Parking brake cables -adjustment

Refer to illustrations 11.3 and 71.4

1 If the parking brake doesn’t keep the vehicle from rolling when the handle is applied 4 to 6 clicks on lever-type parking brakes or 16 to 17 clicks on umbrella-type models, adjust the cable.

2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 On 2WD models adjust the parking brake turnbuckle until the stroke of the pull handle is as specified (see illustration). Make sure that the brake balancer is nearly parallel with the center line of the vehicle.

4 On 4WD models, turn the nuts on the equalizer end of the cables.

Make sure the equalizer is maintained at a go-degree angle to the joint as the nuts are tightened (see illustration).

5 Remove all slack from the parking brake cables. After adjustment apply the parking brake several times and check that handle travel is 4 to 6 clicks on lever-type parking brakes or 16 to 17 clicks on umbrella-type models. Make sure the rear brakes don’t drag when the parking brake is released. Check to see that the parking brake light on the dash glows when the handle is applied.

6 Lower the vehicle and verify that the parking brake will hold the vehicle on a moderate incline. If it still won’t keep the vehicle from rolling, inspect the rear brakes as described in Chapter 1.

Chapter 9 Brakes

1 Return spring

2 Cable end

3 Stopper

12.3b Typical lever-type

4 Cable-to-brake shoe /ever connection

5 Aausting nuts parking brake rear cable details

6 Rear cable

7 Split pin

8 Washer

9 Clevis pin

10 Spacer il Lever assembly

12.3~ Umbrella-type parking brake front cable details

1 Parking brake switch

2 Accelerator cable

3 Pedal bracket

4 Snap-ring

5 Parking brake front cable end

6 Parking brake pull rod

7 Bolts

8 Clip

9 Parking brake front cable

9-18 Chapter 9 Brakes

12.3cl Umbrella-type

1 Brake drum

2 Cable adjuster parking brake rear cable details

3 Cable heat protector

4 Parking brake cables

13.1~ Parking brake shoe assembly exploded view (1992 and later with rear disc brakes) models

A Caliper assembly

B Rear brake disc

C Adjuster star wheel spring

D Shoe hold-down washer

E Shoe hold-down spring

F Shoe hold-down pin

G Adjuster star wheel assembly

H Anchor-to-shoe

I Strut springs

J Strut-to-shoe spring

K Parking brake cable clip

L Parking brake shoes

12 Parking brake cable(s) - replacement

Refer to illustrations 12.3a, 12.3b, 12.3~ and 12.3d

1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

2 Disassemble the rear brakes and remove the ends of the parking brake cables from the parking brake levers (Section 5).

3 Remove the return spring (if equipped), separate the parking brake cables at the adjuster, then remove the bolts and the cables (see illustrations).

~~~ 4 -~~ Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

5 Following installation, adjust the parking brake (see Section 11).

13 Parking brake shoes (1992 and later models wlth rear disc brakes) - replacement

Refer to ii&s tra tion 13. I

1 Loosen rearwheeljug nuts, raise the rear of thevehikcleand support ii securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels and brake disc (see Section-

4). Work on the brake assemblies one side at a time, using the assembled brake for reference, if necessary (see illustration).

2 Remove the brake caliper as described in Section 2.

3 Release the parking brake lever and rotate the brakedisc (rotor). If the disc does not turn freely, or will not pull off, remove the adjustment hole.

Chapter 9 Brakes

rubber plug (located on the back side of the backing plate). Turn the starwheel counter clockwise with a flat-bladed screwdriver approximately 3 to

4 clicks to retract the shoes and allow for the disc/drum assembly to slide off. Pull disc/drum assembly off.

4 Remove the adjusting wheel spring.

5 Remove the parking brake shoe hold-down spring, washer and pin. springs, then remove 6 Remove the adjuster and the anchor-to-shoe the strut and strut-to-shoe spring.

7 Remove the brake shoes.

8 Disconnect the parking brake cable.

9 Remove the lever assembly from the rear brake shoe.

IO Installation is the reverse of removal. Repeat the operation on the other wheel. Don’t forget to tighten the lug nuts to the torque specified in

Chapter 1. Road test the vehicle carefully on a level road, away from traf- fic, before placing it into normal service again. check - connector

Rear anti-lock brake svstem

Selfdiagnosis check connector

14 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general descripton and diagnosis

The anti-lock brake system prevents wheel lock-up by sensiqg the drop in wheel speed and modulating hydraulic pressure to the brakes ac- cordingly. It consists of several components:

Control unit

The function of the control unit is to accept and process information re- ceived from the speed sensor, G-sensor and brake light switch to control the hydraulic pressure through the modulator to prevent rear wheel lock up. The control unit also constantly mal driving conditions, to find faults monitors within the system, the system. even under nor-

If a problem develops within the system, the BRAKE warning light will glow on the dashboard. A diagnostic code will also be stored, which, when retrieved will indicate the problem areas or component.

Modulator

The modulator is located under the vehicle on the passenger side attached to the frame just in front of the rear axle. The modulator receives a signal from the control unit, it then regulates the hydraulic pressure, to the rear wheels as necessary to prevent full rear wheel lock-up.

G-sensor

The G-sensor islocated behind the center of the dash under the ash tray. The G-sensor senses the force and speed of deceleration and sends a signal to the control unit.

Speed sensor

The speed sensor is located in the top of the rear differential housing.

The speed sensor sends a signal to the control unit indicating the rear wheel rotational speed.

Brake light switch

The brake light switch powers the control unit when the brake pedal is applied. Without this signal the anti-lock system would not activate.

Gro&d

14.1 The self-diagnosis console, below the radio. connector

To access is located the anti-lock in the system diagnostic mode, simply indicated terminals hook an analog voltmeter of the connector to the

Diagnosis and repair

Refer to illustrations 14.1 and 14.2

Warning: lfa dashboardlightcomesonandstayson while the vehicleisin operation, the anti-lock system requires immediate attention!

Before checking the self-diagnosis form a few preliminary checks. connector for codes, a) Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. b) Verify that the control unit electrical connectors connected. c) Check the electrical connectors at the modulator. you can per- are securely d) Check the fuses. e) Follow the wiring to the speed sensor and check that the connections are secure and that the wiring is not damaged.

Code retrieval

1 Turn ignition switch off and connect an analog voltmeter to the self- diagnosis check connector terminals (see illustration).

2 Turn ignition switch to the on position and read the failure code signal pattern (see illustration on the following page).

3 To clear codes after repairs have been completed turn ignition switch off and disconnect the battery for IO seconds.

-.--

9 - 20

ys 1 Output signal pattern

Chapter 9 Brakes

Diagnosis item

Pulse generator +

Check item

Broken wire

Short circuit

21 -nrLn- z2 nnnl

$’ nnnrur

Battery voltage Voltage drop nlvuulll

G sensor Broken wire

Short circuit

Failure of ON

Broken wire

Release valve

- . .

Broken wire

Short circuit z’

Ho;G’v&e -‘ ~I Broken wire

Short circuit

‘*‘. n

Control unit

uuvuu-in

Normal

14.2 Anti-lock codes and diagnosis table

Replacement

Normal

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Contents

Bulb -replacement .....................................

Circuit breakers -general information

Cruise control system - description

...................... and check ................

Electrical troubleshooting

Fuses -general information

-general information

..............................

...............

Fusible links-general

General information information .........................

....................................

Hazard/turn signal flasher-check

Headlights -adjustment and replacement

.................................

Headlights- replacement ................................

...........

Ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and installation ......

Instrument cluster-disassembly and reassembly

Instrument cluster - removal and installation

. . .

. . . . . . _

Lock cylinder/ignition switch - removal and installation

Power door lock system - description and check . _ . .

Power window system -description and check . . . . _

Relays -general

Speedometer information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . cable - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Steering column switches - removal and installation

Turn signal/hazard

Wiper motor -removal flasher-check and installation and replacement

. . .,........

Wiring diagrams -general information

. . . _ . . . . _ _ . .

.~. _- . .

. .

- . . - . .

. .

. . . I . _

. .

. . _ .

. . _ _

. . I . _

. .

. . 15

-_ 14

. . 8

. . 18

. . 17

. . 6

. . 19

. . 9

. . 7

. . 13

. . 20

. .

1 General information

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid-type battery which is charged by the alternator.

This Chapter covers repair and service procedures electrical components not associated with the engine. for the various

Information on the battery, ter 5. alternator, distributor and starter motor can be found in Chap-

It should be noted that when portions of the electrical system are serviced, the negative battery cable should be disconnected from the battery to prevent electrical shorts and/or fires.

2 Electrical troubleshooting -general Information

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical! component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this book.

Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the appropriate wiring diagrams to get a complete understanding of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components properly. If several components related or circuits to the circuit are operating fail at one time, chances are the problem is in a fuse or ground connection, because several circuits are often routed through the same fuse and ground connections.

Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a bad relay.

Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before troubleshooting

If testing instruments it. are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to plan ahead of time where you will make the necessary connections in order to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.

The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit testerorvoltmeter acontinuity

(a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used), tester, which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker incorporated, used to bypass electrical components. Before attempting which can be to locate aprob- lem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to make the connections.

_ i

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

State of fuse blown due to overcurrent ~-

State of fuse blown due to thermal fatigue

Spare fuse 15A

3.1 Fuse block diagram -early models

Voltage checks

Voltage checks should be performed if acircuit is not functioning properly. Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other lead to a oonnector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester lights. voltage is present, which means that the part of the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking therestofthecircuit in thesamefashion. When you reach apoint at which no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the last test point with voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Note: Keep in m/ndthatsome circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the accessory or run position.

Finding a short

One method of finding shorts in a circuit is to remove the fuse and connect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There should be no voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side-to- side while watching the test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through. The same test can be performed on each component in the circuit, even a switch.

Ground check

Perform a ground test to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light, known as a continuity tester, to a known good ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on, the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on, the ground is not good.

Continuity check

A continuity check is done to determine if there are any breaks rn a circuit - if it is passing electricity properly. With the circuit off (no power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity tester can be used to check the circuit.

Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit (or to the “power” end and a good ground), and if the test light comes on the circuit IS passing current properly. If the light doesn’t come on, there is a breaksomewhere in the circuit. The same procedure can be used to test a switch, by connecting the continuity tester to the switch terminals. With the switch turned

On, the test light should come on.

Finding an open circuit

When diagnosing for possible open circuits, it is often difficult to locate them by sight because oxidation or terminal misalignment are hidden by

3.3 On later models, miniaturized overcurrent or thermal fatigue fuses can cause are them used - to fail the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector harness may correct the open circuit condition. open circuit is indicated when troubleshooting on a sensor or in the wiring

Remember this when an a circuit. Intermittent pro& lems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections.

Electrical troubleshooting is simple if you keep in mind that all electrical circuits are basically electricity running from the batteryythrough the wZ%, switches. relays, fuses and fusible links to each electrica! component (fight bulb, motor, etc.) and to ground, from which it is passed backto the battery.

Any electrical problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from the battery.

3 Fuses - general information

Refer to illustrations 3.7, and 3.3

1 The electrical circuits of the vehicle are protected by a combination fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. The fuse block is of located under the instrument panel on the left side of the dashboard (see illustration).

2 Each of the fuse@ designed to protect a specific circuit, and the various circuits are identified on the fuse panel itself.

3 On early models, glass cylinder type fuses are used. On later models, miniaturized fuses are employed. These compact fuses, with blade terminal design, allow fingertrp removal and replacement. If an electrical component fails, always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the element for evidenciof damage (see illustration). If a continuity check is called for, the blade terminal tips are exposed in the fuse body.

4 Be sure to replace blown fuses with the correct type. Fuses of ent ratings are physically interchangeable, difkr- but only fuses of the propet%%- ing should be used. Replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lower value than specified is not recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is molded into the fuse body.

5 If the replacement fuse rmmedrately fails, don’t replace it again until the cause of the problem is rsolated and corrected. causewill beashortcircuit in thewiring

In most cases, the causedbya brokenordeteriorated wire.

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-3

6.2 This group of relays Is located under the driver’s side of the instrument panel

4.1 A typical fusible link

4 Fusible links-general information

Refer to illustration 4.1

Some circuits are protected by fusible links. The links are used in circuits which are not ordinarily fused, such as the ignition circuit (see tration). illus-

Although the fusible links appear to be a heavier gauge than the wire they are protecting, the appearance is due to the thick insulation. All fusible links are four wire gauges smaller than the wire they are designed to protect.

Fusible links cannot be repaired, but a new link of the same size wire can be put in its place. The procedure a) Disconnect the negative is as follows: cable from the battery. b) Disconnect the fusible link from the wiring harness. c) Cut the damaged fusible link out of the wiring just behind the connector. d) Strip the insulation back approximately e) Position the connector l/2-inch. on the new fusible link and crimp it into place. f) Use rosin core solder at each end of the new link to obtain a good solder joint.

Q) Use plenty of electrical tape around the soldered joint. No wires

. should be exposed. h) Connect the battery ground cable. Test the circuit for proper operation.

5 Circuit breakers -general information

Circuit breakers protect components door locks and headlights. Some circuit such breakers as power windows, are located power in the fuse box.

On some models the circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so an electrical overload in a circuit breaker protected system will cause the circuit to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit does not come back on, check it immediately. Once the condition is corrected, the circuit breakerwill set manually. resume its normal function. Some circuit breakers must be re-

6 Relays - general infofmation

Refer to illustration 6.2

1 Several electrical accessories in the vehicle use relays to transmit the electrical signal to the component. will not operate properly.

If the relay is defective, that component

2 The various relays are grouped together in several locations

(see illustration).

7.1 Turn signal/hazard flasher location

3 If a faulty relay is suspected, service department it can be removed or a repair shop. Defective relays and tested by a dealer must be replaced as a unit.

7 Turn signal and hazard flashers - check and replacement

Refer to illustration 7.1

Turn signal flasher

1 The turn signal flasher, a small box or canister-shaped under the driver’s side of the instrument panel unit located

(see illustration), flashes the turn signals.

2 When the flasher unit is functioning properly, an audible click can be heard during its operation. If the turn signals fail on one side or the other and the flasher unit does not make its characteristic faulty turn signal bulb is indicated. clicking sound, a

3 If both turn signals fail to blink, the problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or open connection. If ’ a quick check of the fuse box indicates that the turn signal fuse has blown, check the wiring for a short before installing a new fuse.

4 To replace the flasher, simply pull it out and press in a new one.

5 Make sure that the replacement unit is identical to the original. Com- pare the old one to the new one before installing it.

6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Hazard flasher

7 The hazard flasher on most models is integral with the turn signal flasher unit.

8 The hazard flasher is checked in a fashion similar to the turn signal flasher (see Steps 2 and 3).

12-4 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

8.2 Ignition switch installation

I Steering column cover 3 details ignition switch

4 Key reminders ,witch

9 To replace the hazard flasher, pull it from the back of fuse block.

10 Make sure the replacement unit is identical to the one it replaces.

Compare the old one to the new one before installing it.

11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

I

9.3 Steering column switch installation

1 Horn pad and horn switch

2 Steering wheel

3 Lower steering column cover details

4 Upper steering column cover

5 Cable band

6 Steering column swifch off. Install new bolts on reassembly.

5 Unbolt and remove the key reminder switch and remove the igni@% swftcMock cylinder from the steering column.

6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

8 ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 8.2

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Remove the steering column cover to gain access to the ignition switch/lock cylinder (see illustration).

3 Using wire cutters, remove the cable band.

4 Remove the bolts that hold the ignition switch/lock cylinder to the steering column. Note: On 1988 and later mode/s, the bolts must be cut

9 Steering column switch - removal and installation

Refer to illusfration 9.3

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10).

3 Remove the steering column covers (see illustration).

4 Using wire cutErs to remove the cable band.

5 Remove the two screws holding the steerfng column switch.

6 Remove the steering column switch.

7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-5

10.3 Remove the four small headlight retainer screws - DO NOT disturb the two larger adjustment screws (sealed- beam type)

10.4 Unplugging connector the electrical

(sealed-beam type)

12.la Removing the rear light lens

12.1 b To remove a rear light bulb, push it in and rotate it go-degrees counterclockwise

12.1 c Remove the two screws, pull off the side-marker lens then 12.ld To remove a side-marker bulb like the one shown, push it in and rotate it go-degrees counterclockwise

10 Headlights-replacement

Refer to illustrations

1 Disconnect

10.3 and 10.4 the negative cable from the battery.

Sealed-beam type

2 Remove the retaining screws and detach the headlightbezel.

3 Remove the headlight retainer screws, taking care not to disturb the adjustment screws (see illustration).

4 Remove the retainer and pull the headlight out enough to allow the connector to be unplugged (see illustration).

5 Remove the headlight.

6 To install the headlight, plug the connector in, place the headlight in position and install the retainer and screws. Tighten the screws securely.

7 Place the headlight bezel in position and install the retaining screws.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Halogen bulb type

8 Disconnect electrical connector at the bulb, then pull out the socket cover and connector.

9 Remove the locking ring by rotating it counterdlockwise, the bulb and the locking ring. then remove

10 Insert the new bulb assembly into the locking assembly and reassemble in the reverse order of removal. Note: To replace theleftsidebulb it’s necessary to remove the engine coolant reservoir. Caution: Never hold a halogen bulb with your bare hands, a dirty rag, etc. The oils on the glass will cause the bulb to create a hot spot and fail prematurely. If any oil or dirt gets on the glass, clean it thoroughly with lacquer fhinneroralcohol before installation.

11 Headlights -adjustment

Note: The headlights must be aimedcorrectly. If adjustedincorrectly they couldblind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause a serious accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be checked forproperaim every 12 months and any time a new headlight is installedorfrontendbodyworkisperformed. ltshouldbeemphasizedthat the following procedure is only an interim step which will provide temporary a@ustment equippedshop. until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly

1 Headlights have two spring loaded adjusting screws, one on the top controlling up-and-down movement and one on the side controlling left- and-right movement.

2 There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor.

3 Position masking tapeverticallyon the halall in reference to the vehicle centerline and the centerlines of both headlights.

4 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: It maybe easiertoposition the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches a way.

5 Adjustment should be made with thevehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle.

6 Starting with the low-beam adjustment, position the high-intensity zone so it is two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment is made byturning the topadjust- ing screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam.

The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to move the beam left or right.

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12.le To remove the front lens, remove the two screws

12.lf High-level brake light installation

1 High level brake light lens

2 High level brale light housing details

3 Plastic nuts

4 Mouhfing brackef

13.3 Windshield

- wipers, washer and motor-exploded

1 Wipep blade

2 Wiper arm

3 t?ight front deck garnish

4 Leti front deck garnish

5 Actuator arm

_. -

“--

Wiper motor

Washer

~_~~ reservoir motor nozzle hose view

14.3a Removing the radio control stud nuts

(1986 and earlier models)

12 Bulb - replacement

Refer to illusfrations 12. la, 72. lb, ~12. Ic, 12. Id, 72. le and 12. If

1 The lenses of many lights are held in place by screws, which makes it a simple procedure to garn access to the bulbs (see illustrations).

2 On some lights the lenses, such as the interior dome light lens, a?e held in place by clips. The lenses can be removed either by unsnapping them or by using a small screwdriver to pry them off.

3 Several types of bulbs are used. Some are removed by pushing in&d turning them counterclockwise. Others can simply be unclipped from the terminals or pulled straight out of the socket.

4 To gain access to the instrument panel lights, the instrument cluster will have to be removed first (see Section 15).

14.3b Removing the radio trim plate (1986 and earlier models)

7 With the high beams on, the high-intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center lust below the horizontal line. Note: It may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep In mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety.

8 Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer setvice department or service station at the earliest opportunity.

13 Wiper motor - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 13.3

7 Remove the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Unplug the electrical connector leading from the wiper motor, _

3 Remove the three bolts attaching the motorto the vehicle firewaqgee illustration).

4 Pull up on the wiper arm until the actuator arm joint is visible in the access hole, then pry the motor out of the actuator arm joint with a screwdriver,

5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-7

14.4 Removingthe nut from the fan control stud

(1988 and earlier models)

14.5 Removing the cluster trim rim mounting

(1986 and earlier models) screws

14.8 Disconnecting the wiring (1986 and earlier models) 14.7 Removing the instrument cluster mounting

(1986 and earlier models) screws

14 Instrument cluster-removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 14.3a, 14.3b, 14.4, 14.5, 14.6, 14.7and 14.13

1986 and earlier models

1 If any of the gauges or warning lights need servicing it will be‘necessary to,remove the instrument

2 Disconnect the negative cluster. battery cable from the battery.

3 Remove the control knobs and the nuts on the studs from the radio,

(see illustration), then remove the radio trim plate (see illustration).

4 Pull off the heater fan control knob and the heater control lever ends.

Remove the nut from the fan control stud (see illustration).

5 Remove the four screws from the cluster trim rim (see illustration) and lift it carefully out.

6 Disconnectthe wiring harness and the wire lead atthe lower rightcor- ner of the rim (see illustration).

7 Remove the four screws attaching the instrument

(see illustration). cluster to the dash

8 Remove the speedometer cable fitting and remove the cable from the back of the cluster (see illustration 19.4). Disconnect the electrical wire from the buzzer.

9 Carefully pull out on the cluster until it is free of the dash, then disconnect the two electrical connectors at the rear of the cluster.

10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1987 and later models

11 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery..Remove switch and hole cover.

12 Remove the two lower screws, then lift the instrument

Off. the hazard cluster hood

13 Remove the four screws holding the instrument cluster in place (see illustration).

14 Pull theinstrumentclusterout, trical connectors, then remove disconnectthespeedometerandelec- the cluster from the vehicle (see illustration 19.4). Installation is the reverse of removal.

14.13 Instrument cluster mounting details-exploded

(1987 and later models)

1 Hazard switch

Hole cover

3 Hood view

6 Instrument cluster

12-8 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

15.1 Removing the plastic cover screws

(1966 and earlier models) a

15.4 Lifting off the printed circuit board

(1966 and earlier models)

15.8 Instrument

W” view (1987 and later models) cluster-exploded

ClearplastIc cover

Instrument cluster face

Oil pressure gauge

Engine coolant temperature

Fuel gauge

Voltmeter

Warning indicator reset switch instrument cluster case gauge

Printed circuit board

15 instrument

Refer to illustrafions cluster-disassembly

15.1, 15.4 and 15.8 and reassembly

1986 and earlier models

1 Remove the screws holding the clear plastic cover and trim ring in place and lift them off (see illustration).

2 Turn the cluster over and remove the nuts from the studs on the right side. Unscrew the buzzer mounting screw and remove the buzzer.

3 Remove the bulb holders from the printed circuit board by turning them counterclockwise.

4 Remove the self-tapping screws and the machine screws. The machine screws have two different size threads, so be sure they are returned to the exact same locations they were removed from. Carefully lift the printed circuit board off the instrument cluster (see illustration).

5 The speedometer

6 Reassembly is held in position with two screws. is the reverse of disassembly.

1987 and later models

7 Remove the two lower screws holding the clear plastic cover.

8 Turn the cluster over and remove the self-tapping tration). screws (see illus-

9 Remove the bulb holders from the printed circuit board by turning them counterclockwise.

10 Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

16 Cruise control system - description and check

The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed with a vacuum:actuated servo motor located in the engine compartment. which is connected to the throttle linkage by a cable. The system consists of the s&vo motor, clutch switch, brake switch, control switches, a relay and associated vacuum hoses.

Because of the’complexity toolsand techniques required of the cruise for diagnosis, control system repairshould and the sp&ial be ieft to aBeal- er service department or a repair shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connections for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspect the cruise control actuating switches for broken wires-and loose conwctlons. b) Check the cruise control fuse. c) The cruise control system is operated by vacuum so it’s criti;Gthat all vacuum switches, hoses and connections are secure. Check the hosesfrrthe engine compartment and obvious vacuum leaks. for tight connections, cracks

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

17 Power window system -description and check

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lowerand raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors (regulators), glass mechanisms and associated wiring.

Because of the complexity of the power window system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a dealer service department or a repair shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and motors for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspect the power window actuating switches for broken wires and loose connections. b) Check the power window fuse/and or circuit breaker. c) Remove the door panel(s) and check the power window motor wires to see if they’re loose or damaged. inspect the glass mechanisms for damage which could cause binding.

18 Power door lock system - description and check

The powerdoorlocksystem operates thedoorlockactuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators and associated wiring. Since special tools and techniques are required to diagnose the system, it should be left to a dealer service department or a repair shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Check the system fuse and/or circuit breaker. b) Check the switch wires for damage and loose connections.

Check the switches for continuity.

c) Remove the door panel(s) and check the actuator wiring connections to see if they’re loose or damaged. Inspect the actuator rods

(if equipped) to make sure they aren’t bent or damaged. Inspect the actuator wiring for damaged or loose connections. The actuator can be checked by applying battery power momentarily. A discern- ible click indicates that the solenoid is operating properly.

19.2 Speedometer

5 Clips

6 Speedometer

7 Speedometer

8 Speedometer

9 Speedometer cable installation details cable cable connection driven gear sleeve clamp driven gear sleeve

19 Speedometer cable-replacement

Refer to illustrations 19.2 and 19.4

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission (see illustration).

3 Detach the cable from the routing clips in the engine compartment and pull it up to provide enough slack to allow disconnection from the speedometer.

4 Remove the instrument cluster screws, pull the cluster out (see Sec- tion 14) anddisconnectthespeedometercabtefrom the backofthecluster

(see illustration). Note: On 1991 andlater Montero models with a ratio adapter, afterremoving theinstrumentcluster, rotate theadapterio theleft or right to release the locks and pull the adapter out.

5 Remove the cable from the vehicle.

6 * Prior to installation, lubricate the speedometer end of the cable with spray-on speedometer cable lubricant (available at auto parts stores).

7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they’re in good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and check the cable connections (see Chap- ter 1).

19.4 On most models, when attaching speedometer cable from the speedometer, on the end of the cable stopper or detaching press down the

20 Wiring diagrams - general information

Sinceitisn’t possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed.

When checking a circuit, make sure that

all connectors are clean, with

no broken or loose terminals. When unplugging a connector, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector housings themselves.

LA I

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

E p u

12-12 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-13

12-14 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

I a-

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system 12-15

MPI CIRCUIT <2.4L ENGINE>

2O.lla Fuel injection circuit (2.4L engine - 1 of 2)

20.11 b Fuel injection circuit (2.4L engine - 2 of 2)

I ‘I

T-

I,0

20.12a Fuel injection circuit (3.OL engine - 1 of 2)

.I .I

.I .4 .>

20.12b Fuel injection circuit (3.OL engine - 2 of 2)

.~ ..,..-.. .,...,, p e&sunent mnneCtor

12-18 Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

y -

‘L

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

03 2n

15-B

Q

Battery

Main fusible link

@W 8011

5-w

5-w,

Sub fusible link (Fuse B) m

0.5-G 2 w

D-26

To alternator

(Refer to P. 8-65.) T = I

-

$-IF

F-RBnRB

F-Br1 IBr

I m

D-28 b, i, L

Control relay

D-28 a. i, L

Central locking

L r (

D-28 a, b, i, K

‘rn

D-28 a, j. K

D-28 a, j. L

I I i 1 1 1 1 1 18

D-28 b, i, L

D-28 b, j, K m

Brn

11.25-BY

125

To engine control unit

(Refer to P. 8-40, 42.)

Door lock actuator

Color code for wiring

B: Black Br : Brown

L : Blue

P: Pink

Lg : Light green

R : Red

G : Green

LI : Light blue

Y : Yellow

*’ Gr : Gray

0 : Orange

W : White

20.15 Power door lock circuit

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

Contents

Center bearing - replacement ............................

Clutch cable - removal and installation ......................

Clutch components - removal, inspection and installation

Clutch - description and check ..................

Clutch fluid level check ........................

Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding .........................

Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment .............................

_ .....

...... 3

_ .. 2

See Chapter 1

.....

See Chapter 1

Clutch release bearing - removal and installation .............

Clutch release cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Differential lubricant level check .................

.....

See Chapter 1

Driveline inspection .................................... 11

Driveshafts,

Driveshafts differentials and axles - general information

- removal and installation ...........

.......

Flywheel - removal and installation ...............

....... 10

.. 12

See Chapter 2

Front axle disconnect and replacement solenoid and actuator - check

...................................... 22

Front differential assembly (4WD models) - removal and installation . . ., . . . . _ . . . . . . .~. _ . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Front driveaxle boot replacement

(CV)jointoverhaul(4WDmodels)

Front driveaxles and Constant

. ..__....

Velocity

_____ .__..

(4WD models) - removal and installation

____ 21

. . . . . 20

Front hub assembly (4WD models) - removal, bearing repack, installation and adjustment . . . . . . . . . , . _ . _ _ . . _ . . . . 19

Front wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment

(2WD models only) . . . . . . . . . . . ‘. . . . . . . . _ .-. _ . See Chapter 1

General information . . . . . . . _ . . . . . _ . . . . . . . _ _ _ _ . _ . . . . . _ . . _ 1

Pilot bearing - inspection, removal and installation

Pinion bearing oil seal - replacement

. . . . . . . . , .

. . . . . . _ . . . _ _ _ _ . . _ _ . .

Rear axle assembly - removal and installation

Rear axle oil seal - replacement

. . . . . . . . . _ _ . .

. _ . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . _ . . . _ . . . .

Universal joints - replacement . . . . _ . . . . _ . _ . . _ . ._ . _ _ . _ _ _ . . . 14

SDecifications

Clutch

Hydraulic system fluid type ...............................

Clutch disc minimum lining thickness .......................

Clutch pedal freeplay ...................................

See Chapter 1

0.012 inch

See Chapter 1

Front hub turning force (4WD models)

(measured with spring scale)

1983 ................................................

19840n .............................................

3.31 Ibs

1 to 4 Ibs

Driveline

U-joint journal endplay ..................................

Brake contact surface depth ..............................

Front hub axial play ....................................

Driveaxle axial play .....................................

0.024 inch

0.470 to 0.480 inch

0.001 inch

0.008 to 0.020 inch

8-2 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Clutch pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts

Driveline

U-joint flange bolts (front or rear driveshaft)

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . :.

Center

Rear axle bearing bearing pinion bracket locknut nuts

. . I .

. . .

. .

. . . . .

Bearing retainer/brake backing plate-to-axle

Differential pinion shaft nut . . I housing nuts

. . . . . .

. .

12to14

. 36 to 43

116to 159

20 to 22

36 to 43

137to 180

Front axle (4WD models)

Differential carrier bolts _ _ . _ . . . . . .

Free-wheeling hub body assembly bolts

Manual free-wheeling hub cover bolts

Differential pinion shaft nut

Right front driveaxle flange bolts

. . . _ . . .

. . . . . . . . .

. . . . .

. . .

. . _ . . .

. . 58 to 72

37 to 43

96 to 120 KIbs

137to 180

37 to 43

1 General information

The information in this Chapter deals with the components from the rearof the engine to the rear wheels and to the front wheels on 4WD models, except for the transmission and transfer case (4WD models), which are dealt with in the previous Chapter. For the purposes of this Chapter, these components are grouped into four categories: clutch, driveshaft, front axle and rear axle. Separate Sections within this Chapter offergener- al descriptions and checking procedures for each of these groups.

Since nearly all the procedures covered in this Chapter rnvolve working under the vehicle, make sure it’s securely supported on sturdy jackstands or on a hoist where the vehicle can be easily raised and lowered.

2 Clutch -description and check

Refer to illustration 2.1

1 All models equipped with a manual transmission plate, diaphragm spring-type clutch (see illustration). ther through a cable or hydraulic system. feature asjngle

The actuation dry- is ei-

2 When the clutch pedal is depressed on cable-actuated models, the clutch cable moves the release bearing into contact with the pressure plate release fingers, disengaging the clutch disc. On hydraulically actuated models, hydraulic fluid (under pressure from the clutch master cylinder) flows into the release cylinder. Because the release cylinder is connected to the clutch fork, the fork moves the release bearing into contact with the pressure plate release fingers, disengaging the clutch disc.

3 Terminology can be a problem regarding the clutch components because common names have in some cases changed from that used by the manufacturer. For example, the driven plate is also called the clutch plate or disc, the clutch release bearing is sometimes called a throwout bearing, the release cylinder is sometimes called the operating or slave cylinder.

4 Due to the slow wearing qualities of the clutch, it is not easy to decide when to go to the trouble of removing the transmission fnorderto check the wear on the friction lining. The only positive indication that something should be done is when it starts to slip or when squealing noises during engagement indicate that the friction lining has worn down to the rivets. In such instances it can only be hoped that the friction surfaces on the flywheel and pressure plate have not been badly worn or scored.

5 A clutch wiliwear according to the way in which it is used. Much inten- tional slipping of the clutch while driving-rather than the correctselection of gears-will accelerate wear. It is best to assume, however, that the disc will need replacement at about 40,000 miles (64,000 km).

6 Because of the clutch’s location between the engine and transmission, it cannot be worked on without removing either the engine or transmission. If repairs which would require removal of the engine are n~ot needed, the quickest way to gain access to the clutch is by removing the transmission as described in Chapter 7.

7 Other than to replace components with obvious damage, some preliminary checks should be performed to diagnose a clutch system failure.

4

The frrst check should be of the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder (hydraulically actuated models). If the fluid levelis low, add fluid- as necessary and re-test. If the master cylinder runs dry, or if any of the hydraulic components are serviced, bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 9.

To check “clutch spin down time”, run the engine at normal idle speedwith the transmission in Neutral (clutch pedal up-engaged).

Disengage the clutch (pedal down), wait nine seconds and shift the transmissron intoReverse. No grinding noise should be heard. A- grinding noise would indicate component plate assembly or the clutch disc.

To checkforcomplete failure in the pressure._ clutch release, run theengine (with the brake on to prevent movement) l/2-inch from and hold the clutch the floor mat. Shiftthe transmission pedal approximately between lstgear and Reverse several times. If the shift is not smooth, component failure is indicated. Measure the hydraulic release cylinder pushrod travel (hydraulically pietelydepressedthe actuated release models). cylinder

With the clutch pushrod should pedal extend com- sub- stantrally. If the pushrod will not extend very far or not at ail, check

4

the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. The system may need to be bled (see Section 9).

Visually inspect the clutch pedal bushing at the top of the clutch pedal to make sure there is no sticking or excessive wear.

4

Under the vehicle, check that the release fork is solidly mounted- on the ball stud (hydraulically actuated models).

Note: Because accessto the clutch components is an involvedprocess, any time either the engine or transmission pressure plate assembly and release is removed, bearing should the clutch be carefully disc, in-

I spectedand, if necessar$ replaced with newparts. Since tTie clutch disc is ~~ normally the /tern of highest wear, it should be replaced as a matter of courseif there is any question about its%ondition.

3 Clutch components - removal, inspection and installation

Refer to illustrations 3. TD and 3.12

Warning: Dustproducedby nentscontamsasbestos, itout with compressed clutch wearanddeposited whrchis hazardous airand DO NOTinhale toyourhealth. on clutch compo-

DO NOTbbw it. DO NOTusegasoline or petroleum-based solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner . should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with a rag, dispose cleaner in a covered container. of the contaminated rags and

Removal

1 Access to the clutch components moving the transmission leavrng is normally the engine accomplished in the vehicle. by re- ’

If, of course, the engine is being removed for major overhaul, then the opportunity should always be taken. to check the clutch for wear and replace worn components as necessa.v. The following procedures gine will stay In place. assume that the en-

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline 8-3

2.1 Exploded views of the clutch components

Cable-actuated models (top)

1 Bolt plate assembly 2 Clutch pressure

3 Clutch disc

4 Spring clip

5 Release bearing

6 Spring pin

7 Clutch controllever

8 Return spring

9 Release fork

10 Return spring

11 Felt packing

Hydraulically actuated models (bottom)

12 Bolt

13 Clutch pressure plate assembly

14 Clutch disc

15 Spring clip

16 Release bearing

17 Bolt

18 Release cylinder

19 Boot

20 Release fork

2 1 Ballstud

22 Bearing retainer

3.10 The clutch disc

1 Lining - this will wear down in use

2 Marks - “Flywheel Side” or something similar

3 Rivets - These secure the lining and will damage the pressure plate if allowed to contact it

2 Remove the release cylinder (hydraulically actuated models) without disconnecting the hydraulic line (see Section 8). Support the cylinder out of the way by a piece of wire from the undercarriage.

3 Referring to Chapter 7 Part A, remove the transmission from the vehicle. Support the engine while the transmission is out. Preferably, an engine hoist should be used to support it from above. However, if a jack is used underneath the engine, make sure a piece of wood is used between the jack and oil pan to spread the load. Caution: The pickup for the oil pumpis very close to the bottom of the oilpan. If thepan is bentordistorted in any way, engine oil starvation could occur.

4 To support the clutch disc during removal, install a clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc hub.

5 Carefully inspect the flywheel and pressure plate for indexing marks.

The marks are usually an X, an 0 or awhite letter. If they cannot be found, apply marks yourself so the pressure plate and the flywheel will be in the same alignment during installation.

6 Turning each bolt only l/2-turn at a time, slowly loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Work in a diagonal pattern and loosen each bolt a little at a time until all spring pressure is relieved. Then hold the pressure plate securely and completely remove the bolts, followed by the pressure plate and clutch disc.

Inspection

7 Ordinarily, when a problem occurs in the clutch, it can be attributed to wear of the clutch disc assembly. However, all components should be inspected at this time.

8 Inspect the flywheel for cracks, heat checking, grooves or other signs of obvious defects. If the imperfections are slight, a machine shop can machine the surface flat and smooth, which is highly recommended regardless of the surface appearance. Refer to Chapter 2 for the flywheel removal and installation procedure.

9 Inspect the pilot bearing (if equipped) (Section 6).

10 Inspect the lining on the clutch disc. There should be at least 1 mm of lining above the rivet heads. Check for loose rivets, warpage, cracks, distorted springs or damper bushings and other obvious damage (see illustration). As mentioned above, ordinarily the clutch disc is replaced as a matter of course, so if in doubt about the condition, replace it with a new one.

11 Ordinarily, the release bearing is also replaced along with the clutch disc (see Section 4).

EXCESS

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

Slot of spring pin

NORMAL FINGER WEAR EXCESSIVE FINGER WEAR

EXCESSIVE WEAR

EXCESSIVE FINGER WEAR

3.12 Replace the pressure plate

BROKEN OR BENT FINGERS if the diaphragm exhibit these signs of wear spring fingers 4.4 Drive out the spring pins with a hammer and punch - the pin slots must be at right angles to the shaft when reinstalled

15 Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel around the pressure plate. bolts only finger tight, working

16 Center the clutch disc by ensuring the alignment tool is through the splined hub and into the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. Wiggle the tool up; down or side-to-side, as needed, to bottom the tool in the pilot bearing.

Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts a little at a time, working in a criss-cross pattern to prevent distorting the cover. After all of the bolts are snug, tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Sfjecifications. Be: move the alignment tool.

17 Using high temperature grease, lubricate the inner groove of the release bearing (refer to Section 4). Also place grease on,,the fork fingers.

18 Install the clutch release bearing as described in Section 4.

19 Install the transmission, release cylinder and all components moved tions. previously, tightening all fasteners to the proper torque specifica- re-

5.1 Typical clutch cable details

Clutch pedal

Bushing

3 support

4 Pedal rod

5 Spring

6 Adjusting wheel

7 Spacer

8 Insulator

9 Pedal /ever

10 Pad

11 Clutch cable

12 stop bolt

12 Check the machined surfaces phragmspringfingers(seeillustration). wise damaged, replace the pressure of the pressure plate and the dia-

Iffhesurfaceisgroovedorother- plate. Also check for obvious damage, distortion, cracking, etc. Light glazing can be removed with medium grit emery cloth. If a new pressure plate is indicated, new or factory- rebuilt units are available.

Installation

13 Before installation, carefully wipe the flywheel and pressure plate machined surfaces cleanwith a rubbing-alcoholdampened rag. It’s important that no oil or grease is on these surfaces or the lining of the clutch disc.

Handle these parts only with clean hands.

F4 PosifiomFthe clutch disc and pressure plate with the clutch held in place with an alignment tool. Make sure it’s installed properly (most re- placementclutch discs will be marked “flywheel side”orsomething similar

-if not marked, install the clutch with the damper springs or bushings toward the transmission.

4 Clutch release bearing - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 4.4

Removal

1 Disconnect the negatrve cable from the battery.

2 Remove the transmission (Chapter 7).

3 Detach the spring clip(s), then slide the release bearing off the transmission input shaft (see illustration

4 On cable-actuated models,

2.1). drive out the two spring pins and slide the clutchcontrol illustration). leveroutof the bellhousing and remove the releasefork(see

5 On hydraulically actuated models, detach theforkfrom the ballstud by pulling it strarght off.

6 t-tald the bearrng and turn the Inner portron. If the bearing doesn’t turn smoothly or if its noisy replace it with a new one. Wipe the bearing wittYa clean rag and inspectit for damage, wear and cracks. Don’t immerse the bearing in solvent - it’s sealed for life and to do so would ruin it.

Installation

Cable-actuated models

7 Wipe the control lever shaft bushings in the bellhousmg clean, then apply a thin coat of mm&purpose grease to them. Slide the control lever/ shaft assembly into place along with the felt packings, return springs and the clutch arm.

8 Engage the return spring in the clutch arm, install the spring pins with the slots at right angles to the shaft (see illustration 4.4). Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the felt packings.

9 Slide the release bearing and carrier assembly into position and install the spring clips. Make sure they are prooerly engaged in the cfutch arm and release bearing carriers.

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline 8-5

Typical clutch master cylinder -

2 Damper andpushrod

3 Piston assembly and sprjng

4 Reservoir cap

5 Reservoir

6 Retaining clamp

5.4 Remove the cotter pin (arrow) and detach the cable from the clutch lever

Hydraulically-actuated

10 Lubricate the clutch fork ends where they contact the bearing lightly with moly-based diameter of the bearing and also to the transmission retainer. input shaft bearing

11 Install the release bearing on the clutch fork so that both of the fork ends fit into the bearing tabs. Make sure the spring clip seats securely.

12 Lubricate the clutch release fork ball socket with moly-based disul- phide grease and push the fork onto the ball stud until it’s firmly seated.

Check to see that the bearing slides back and forth smoothly on the input shaft bearing retainer.

All models models grease. Apply a thin coat of the same grease to the inner

13 The remaindet’of the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, tigtitening all bolts to the specified torques.

5 Clutch cable-removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 5.1 and 5.4

1 Loosen the cable adjusting wheel at the firewall in the engine compartment and the pedal stop bolt to provide enough slack to unhook it from the clutch pedal (see illustration).

2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Unhook the return spring from the clutch lever.

4 Disconnect the cable from the clutch lever (see illustration), pull it forward through the bracket, detach any retaining clips and remove it from the vehicle.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal, taking care there are no kinks in the cable which will cause it to bind.

6 After installation, adjust the freeplay (see Chapter 1).

6 Pilot bearing - inspection, removal and installation

1 The clutch pilot bearing is a ball-type bearing used on some models which is pressed into the rear of the crankshaft. Its primary purpose is to support the front of the transmission be inspected wheneverthe clutch input shaft. The pilot bearing components are removed should from the engine. Due to its inaccessibility, it with a new one. if you are in doubt as to its condition, replace

Note: If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, disregard the followjng steps which do not apply.

2 Remove the transmission (refer to Chapter 7 Part A).

3 Remove the clutch components (Section 3).

4 Using a clean rag, wipe the bearing clean and inspect for aily excessive wear, scoring or obvious damage. A flashlight will be helpful to direct light into the recess.

5 Check to make sure the pilot bearing turns smoothly and quietly. If the transmission input shaft contact surface is worn or damaged, replace the bearing with a new one.

6 Removal can be accomplished with a special puller but an alternative method also works very well.

7 Find a solid steel bar which is slightly smaller in diameter than the bearing. Alternatives to a solid bar would be a wood dowel or a socket with a bolt fixed in place to make it solid.

8 Check the bar for fit- it should just slip into the bearing with very little clearance.

9 Pack the bearing and the area behind it (in the crankshaft recess) with heavy grease. Pack it tightly to eliminate as much air as pdsible.

10 Insert the bar into the bearing bore and lightly hammer on the bar, which will force the grease to the backside of the bearing and push it out.

Remove the bearing and clean all grease from the crankshaft recess.

11 To install the new bearing, lubricate the outside surface with oil then drive it into the recess with a hammer and a socket with an ou$ide dianie- ter that matches the bearing outer race.

12 Pack the bearing with lithium base grease (NLGI No.2). Wipe off all excess grease so the clutch lining will not become contaminated.

13 Install the clutch components, transmission removed to gain access to the pilot bearing. and all other components

7 Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Rifer to i//us tra tion 7.3

Caution: Do not allow brake fluid to contact any painted surface’s of the vehicle, as damage to the finish may result.

Removal

1 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder and drain the fluid into a suitable container.

2 Remove the master cylinder flange mounting nuts and withdraw the unit from the engine compartment.

Overhaul

3 Remove the retaining clamp and pull off the reservoir tion).

(see illustra-

4 Push the piston down and remove the snap-ring with a pair of snap- ring pliers or a small screwdriver.

5 Pull out the piston assembly alld spring.

6 Examine the inner surface of the cylinder bore. If it is scored or exhib- its bright wear areas, the entire master cylinder should be replaced.

7 If the cylinder bore is in good condition, obtain aclutch master cylinder rebuild kit, which will contain all of the necessary replacement parts.

8 Prior to installing any parts, first dip them in brake fluid to lubricate them.

9 Installation of the parts in the cylinder is the reverse of removal.

Installation

IO Position the clutch master cylinder against the firewall, inserting the pedal pushrod into the piston. Install the nuts, tightening them securely.

8-6 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

8.6a With the cylinder padded to catch the piston, use compressed air to force the piston out of the bore - make your hands are not in the way of the piston! sure

8.3 Clutch release cylinder installation

1 Bleeder

Banjo

3 Washers screw bolt details

4 Hydraulic line

5 Body

11 Bleed the clutch hydraulic system following the procedure in Sec- tion 9, then cf%ckthe pedal height and freeplay as described in Chapter 1.

8 Clutch release cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.6a and 8.6b

Removal

1 The crutch release cylinder is located on the side of the transmission bellhousing.

2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the release cylinder. This is done by removing the bolt from the banjo fitting on the cylinder body (see illustration).

4 Remove the bolt(s) and pull off the release cylinder.

Overhaul

5 Pull off the dust boot and pushrod.

6 Mount the release cylinder body in a padded vise and use compressed air to force the piston and spring out of the bore (see illustrations).

7 Unscrew and remove the bleeder screw.

8 Examine the surfaces of the piston and cylinder bore for scoring or

’ bright wear areas. If any are found, discard the cylinder and purchase a new one.

9 If the components fluidRemove are in good condition, the piston cup and discard wash it, noting them carefully in clean brake which way the cup lips face.

10 Obtain a repair kit which will contain all the necessary new items.

11 install the new piston cup using your fingers only to manipulate it into position. Be sure the Tips face in the proper direction.

12 Dip the piston assembly in clean brake fluid before installing it and the spring into the cylinder.

13 Reinstall the bleeder screw.

14 Complete the reassembly by installing the pushrod and the dust cover. Be sure the dust cover is secure on the cylinder housing. lnsfallation

15 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new sealing washers at the banjofrtting. After the cylinder has beetinstalled, bleed the clutch hydraulic system as described in Section 9.

‘1

8.6b An exploded

I Valve p/ate

2 Spring

3 Pushrod

4 Boots view of the clutch release cylinder

6 Conical spring

7 Cap

8 Bleeder screw

9 Cylinder body

5 Piston and cup assembly

9 Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding

Caution: Do notallow the brake fluid to contactanypaintedsutface vehicle, as damage to the finish will result. of the AL

1 Bleeding will be required whenever the hydraulic system has been dismantled and reassembled and air has entered the system.

2 First fill the fluid reservoir with clean brake fluid which has been stored _ in an airtight container, Never use fluid which has drained from the system or has bled out previously, as it may contain grit and moisture.

3 Attach a rubber or plastic bleed tube to the bleeder screw on the release cylinder and immerse the open end of the tube in a glass jar contain- ing an inch or two of fluid.

4 Open the bleeder screw about half a turn and have an assistant quickly depress the clutch pedal completely. Tighten the screw and then have the clutch pedal slowly released with the foot completely removed. Repeat this sequence of operations until air bubbles are no longer ejected from the open end of the tube beneath the fluid in the jar.

5 After two or three strokes of the pedal, make sure the fluid level in the- reservoir has not fallen too low. Keep it full of fresh fluid, otherwise air WIII be drawn into the system.

6 Xghten the bleederscrew on a pedal down stroke (do notovertighten

Rear

2-joint type

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline 8-7

10.1 The three types of driveshafts used on these models

1 Snap-ring

2 Grease fitting

3 Journalbearing

4 Journal

5 Sleeve yoke

6 Flange yoke

7 Locknut

8 Washer

9 Center yoke

10 Center bearing assembly

Front it), remove the bleed tube and jar, top-up the reservoir and install the cap.

7 If an assistant is not available, alternative ‘one-man’ bleeding operations can be carried out using a bleed tube equipped with aone-way valve or a pressure bleed kit, both of which should be used in accordance the manufacturer’s instructions. with pension angles independent

Because of the complexity from each other. and critical nature of the differential adjustments, as well as the special equipment needed to perform the operations, we recommend any disassembly of the differential be done by a dealer service department or other repair shop.

10 Driveshafts, differentials and axles-general information

Refer to illustratioi, f 0.1

Three different driveshaft assemblies ered in this manual (see illustration). are used on the vehicles cov-

Some use a one-piece driveshaft which incorporates two universal joints, one at either end of the shaft.

Others use a two-piece driveshaftwhich incorporates a center bearing attherearofthefrontshaft.Thisdriveshaftusesthree universaljoints;one at the transmission ferential flange. end, one behind the center bearing and one at the dif-

4WD transfer models case use two driveshafts; and the front differential the primary shaft runs between the and the rear driveshaft tween the transfer case and the rear differential. runs be-

All universal joints are of the solid type and can be replaced separately from the driveshaft. The driveshafts are finely balanced during production and whenever they are removed or disassembled, they must be reassembled and reinstalled in the exact manner and positions they were originally in, to avoid excessive vibration.

The rear axle is of the semi-floating type, having a ‘banjo’ design axle housing, which is held in proper alignment with the body by the rear suspension.

Mounted in the center of the rear axle is the differential, which transfers the turning force of the driveshaft to the rear axleshafts, on which the rear wheels are mounted.

The axleshafts are splined at their inner ends to fit into the splines in the differential gears; outer support for the shaft is provided by the rear wheel bearing.

The front axle on 4WD vehicles consists of a frame-mounted differential assembly and two driveaxles. The driveaxles incorporate two constant velocity (CV) joints each, enabling them to transmit power at various sus-

11 Drlveline inspection

1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

2 Slide under the vehicle and visually inspect the condition of the driveshaft. Lookforanydentsorcracksin shaft must be replaced. the tubing. Ifanyarefound, thedrive-

3 Check for any oil leakage at the front and rear of the driveshaft. Leak- age where the driveshaft enters the transmission indicates a defective rear transmission seal. Leakage where the driveshaft enters the differential indicates a defective pinion seal.

4 While still under the vehicle, have an assistant turn the rear wheel so the driveshaftwill rotate. As it does, make sure that the universal joints are operating properly without bindjng,=noise or looseness. On long-bed models, listen for any noise from the center bearirg:indicating it is worn or damaged. Also check the rubb& portion of the center bearing for cracking or separation, which will necessitate replacement.

5 The universal joint can also be checked with the driveshaft motion- less, by gripping your hands on either side of the joint and attempting to twist the joint. Any movement at all in the joint is a sign of considerable wear. Lifting up on the shaft will also indicate movement in the universal joints.

6 Finally, check the driveshaft mounting bolts at the ends to make sure they are tight.

7 On 4WD models, the above driveshaftchecks all driveshafts. In addition, check for grease should leakage be repeated around the sleeve on yoke, indicating failure of the yoke seal.

8 Check for leakage at each connection of thedriveshafts to the transfer case and front differential. Leakage indicates worn oil seals.

9 At the same time, check for looseness veaxles. ih the joints of the front dri-

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

-~-

,+.z

12.1 Mark the direction the driveshaft faces

-~-

- 1

12.3 Typical front driveshaft installation details

12.7 Mark the rear driveshaft-to-differential flange reiationship

12 Driveshafts - removal and installation

Front driveshaft (4 WD)

Refer to illustrations 12.1 and 12.3

1 Rake the front of the vehicle and place it on jackstands. Mark the relationship of the front driveshaft flange to the front differential companion flange so they can be realigned upon installation. Also mark the direction the driveshaft faces (see illustration).

2 Lock the driveshaft from turning with a large screwdriver then remove the four nuts and bolts from the front flange. or prybar,

3 Detach the flange from the front differential, withdraw the shaft from the transfer case and lower the driveshaft from the vehicle (see illustration).

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to align all marks and tighten the flange bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’sSpecifications.

Rear driveshaft

Refer to illustration 12.7

5 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.

6 Remove the nuts holding the center support bearing bracket to the frame (three-joint type).

7 Mark the edges of the driveshaft rear flange and the differential companion flange so they can be realigned upon installation (see iilustra- tion).

~ 8 Remove the four nuts and bolts.

Push the shaft forward slightly to disconnect

Pull the yoke from the transmission/transfer the driveshaft (two-joint type) or driveshafts the rear flange. case while supporting and center bearing assembly as a unit (three-joint type) with your hands.

11 Whilethe driveshafts are removed, insert a plug in the transmission/ transfer case to prevent lubricant leakage.

13.1 Make sure to mark the relationship of the universal joints, driveshaft and center bearing before beginning disassembly

12 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. During installation, make sure all flange marks line up. When connecting the center bearing support to the frame, first finger-tighten the two mounting nuts, then make sure that the bearing bracket is at right angles to the driveshaft.

Tighten all nuts and bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions.

13 Center bearing -replacement

Refer to illustrations 13.1, 13.3, 13.4 and 13.5

1 Remove the driveshaft (see Section 12). Mark the relative positions of the universal joints, driveshafts and center bearing (see illustration).

2 Disassemble the center universal joint so the driveshaft can be separated into two pieces (Section 14).

3 Support the driveshaft in a padded vise and remove the center yoke nut (see illustration).

4 Pull the center yoke off, pry the center bearing bracket loose (be careful not to damage the rubber mount or any dust seals) and remove the center bearing bracket assembly (see illustration). The bearing bracket can’t be disassembled.

5 Using a puller, remove the bearing from the shaft (see illustration).

6 Prior to installation, lubricate the contact surfaces of the bearing and driveshaft with multi-purpose grease.

7 Slip the bearing onto the shaft and fit the bracket to the bearing. The bracket mounting rubbershould way around its circumference. fit securely into the bearing groove all the

8 Align the mating marks on the shaft and the center yoke and slip the - yoke into place on the shaft. Install the washer and a new nut and tighten the nut securely.

9 Assemble the center universal joint as described in Section 14.

Mating marks

-w

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline a-9

13.3 With the cente; bearing and &&haft mounted S?cUrely in a vise, remove the center yoke nut

.,A j \

13.4 Work the center bearing bracket assembly back-and-forth while pulling it off the shaft

13.5 Pull the bearing off the shaft with a puller

14.12 Use a feeler gauge to check the snap-ring-to-bearing

’ clearance (U-joint journal endplay)

14 Universal joints - replacement

Refer to illustrations 14.5 and 14.12

Note: Selective fit snap-rings are used to retain the universaljointspiders in the yokes. In order to maintain the driveshaft balance, you must use replacement snap-rings of the same size as originally used.

1 Onthree-jointtypedriveshafts, it’sagoodideatodismantlethecenter universal joint first so that the driveshaft can be broken into two pieces, which makes the job easier.

2 Clean away all dirt from the ends of the bearings on the yokes so the snap-rings can be removed with a pair of snap-ring pliers or long-nose pliers.

3 Support the universal joint in a vise equipped with soft jaws and remove the snap-rings. If they are very tight, tap the end of the bearing with a hammer to relieve the pressure.

14.5 To press the universal joint out of the driveshaft, set it up in a vise with the small socket (on the left) pushing the joint and bearing cap into the large socket

4 You will need two sockets to remove the bearings from the yokes. One shoirld be large enough to fit into the yoke where the snap-rings were installed and the other should have an inside diameter just large enough for the bearings to fit into when they are forced out of the yoke.

5 Mount the universal joint in the vise with the large socket on one side of the yoke and the small socket on the other side, pushing against the bearing. Carefully tighten the vise until the bearing is pushed out of the yoke and into the large socket (see illustration). If it can’t be pushed all the way out, remove the universal joint from the vise and use apairof pliers to finish removing the bearing.

6 Reverse the sockets and push out the bearing on the other side of the yoke. This time, the small socket will be pushing against the cross-shaped universal joint journal end.

7 Before pressing out the two remaining bearings, mark the universal joint journal (the cross) so it can be installed in the same position during reassembly. Also mark the relationship of the yokes to each other.

8 The two remaining universal joints can be disassembled same procedure. Be sure to mark all components following for each universal the joint so they can be kept together and reassembled

9 When reassembling the universal joints, in the proper replace all needle position. bearings and dust seals with new ones.

10 Before reassembly, pack each grease cavity in the universal joint journals with a small amount of grease. Also, apply a thin coat of grease to thenewneedle bearing rollersand therollercontactareason theuniversal joint journal.

11 Apply athin coat of grease to the dust sea\ lips and install the bearings and universal joint journals into the yoke using the vise and sockets that were used to remove the old bearings. Work slowly and be very careful not to damage the bearings as they are being pressed into the yokes.

12 Once the bearings are in place and properly seated, install the snap- ringsandchecktheclearance (U-jointjournalendplay) withafeelergauge

(see illustratidn). This is done with both snap-rings in place and the bear-

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

16.1 Typical axleshaft

Inner oil seal

Shim

O-ring

Locknut

Lockwasher

Washer components

7 Axleshaft bearir

8 Bearing case

9 Outer oil sea/

10 Dusf cover

11 Packing

12 Axleshaft each rear wheel (see Chapter 9).

6 Disconnectthe rearflexible brake hose from the brake line above the rear axle housing. Disconnect the rear axle breather hose on top of the axle housing (if equipped). Plug the ends of the line and hose orwrap plastic bags tightly around them to prevent excessive fluid loss and contamina; tion.

7 Support the rear axle assembly wrth a jack.

Leaf spring models

8 Remove the U-bolt nuts from the leaf spring seats and raise the axle assembly slightly with the jack.

9 Remove the rear spring shackle bolts and lower the rear of each leaf, spring to the floor.

Coil spring models

10 Remove the stabilizer bar bolts.

11 Remove the rear suspension lower arms and lateral rod. --

A// mode/s

12 Carefully lower the axle assembly to the floor with the jack, then remove it from under the vehicle. It would be a good idea to have an assistant on hand, as the assembly is very heavy.

13 Installation is the reverseof the removal procedure. Be sure to tighten the bolts and nuts and the driveshaft companion flange bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter and Chapter 10’s Specifications. Bleed the brake5

(see Chapter 9).

16.9 Use a hooked tool to remove the oil seal from the axle housing ings and journal pressed toward one side of the yoke. Measure the clearance at the opposite side of the yoke. Compare this measurement those in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter. with

If the measurement is greater than specified, install a snap-ring of a different thickness and recheck the clearance. Repeat the procedure until the correct clearance is obtained. If possible, use snap-rings of the same thickness on each side of the yoke so the driveshaft balance isn’t affected.

15 Rear axle assembly - removal and installation

1 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands placed underneath the frame. Remove the wheels.

2 Support the differential. the rear axle assembly with a floor jack placed underneath

3 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting nuts, detach the lower

~ parfofthe shocks from the axle brackets them out of the way (see Chapter 10). and compress the shocks to get

4 Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential companion flange and hang it with a piece of wire from the underbody (see Section 12).

5 Disconnect the parking brake cables from the parking brake lever at

16 ,Rear axle oil seal - replacement

Refer to illustrafions 16.1, 76.9, 16.15 and 16.77

1 The axleshafts can be removed without disturbing the differential assembly. They must be removed in order to replace the oil seals and when removing the differential carrier from the rear axle housing (see illustration). Note: Read this entire procedure before starting work.

2 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.

3 -Remove the rearwheels and release the parking brake.

4 Remove the drain plug and drain the differential lubricant into a suitable contamer. When the draining is complete, finger-tighten the dram plug~in place.

5 On drum brake models, remove the brake drum from the end of the axle and the metal brake line from the wheel cylinder by referring to Chap- ter 9. The brakes do not have to be disassembled to remove the axles. OIJ

1992 and later Monteros with rear disc brakes, refer to Chapter 9 for brake disassembly.

Sealer

Chagter 8 Clutch and driveline

Rear axle housing

8-11

Bearing ca,se

0 ring Shim

16.15 Apply a thin, even coat of silicone sealer to the area shown on the bearing case

16.17 Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the bearing case and the axle housing

6 Remove the parking brake cables from the vehicle as described in

Chapter 9. Do notdisconnect assemblies. the cables from the levers

If only one axle shaft is being removed, remove in the rear brake only the cable on the side of the vehicle that the axle shaft is being removed from. If both axle shafts are being removed, both parking brake cables must also be re,moved.

7 Remove the four nuts and lock washers attaching the bearing case and brake backing plate to the axle housing and withdraw the axle, the bearing case, the brake backing plate and brake assembly from the axle housing. A slide hammer-type axle puller may be required to dislodge the bearing housing from the axle housing. Do not pry between the two flanges, as damage to the gasket sealing surfaces will result. Support the axle shaft as it is removed from the axle housing to prevent damage to the old seal in the end of the axle housing.

8 Remove the O-ring and shim (or shims) from the rear axle housing flange. Retain the shims for reassembly.

9 Pry or pull the oil seal out of the housing with a screwdriver or a slide hammer-type

10 Thoroughly seal puller (see illustration). clean the seal mounting area, and install a new seal (with the rubber side facing out) using a hammer and a block of wood or other suitable tool. Tap the seal carefully into place around its entire circumference and make sure it is properly seated in the axle housing.

11 At this point, the axleshaft assembly should be taken to a dealer ser- vicedepartmentoraautomotivemachineshopiftheouteroilsealorwheel bearing has to be replaced.

12 Before beginning the assembly procedure, remove all old gasket sealer and any rust from the mating surfaces of the bearing case and the axle housing. Also, thoroughly end with high-temperature pack the bearing case and axle housing wheel bearing grease and lubricate the lip of the oil seal in the axle housing.

13 If both axle shafts have been removed, the left-side shaft should be installed first during reassembly

14 Install a 0.040-inch (1 .O mm) shim and a new O-ring into place on the left end of the axle housing.

15 Apply a thin, even coat of silicone-type gasket sealer to the mating surface of the bearing case and carefully install the left-side axle/brake assembly into the rear axle housing (see illustration). oil seal in the process). It may be necessary

(Do not damage to turn the axle slightly the to engage its inner splines with the differential. You may have to tap gently on the axle hub with a soft-faced hammer to seat the bearing case in the end of the axle housing.

16 Install the four lock washers and nuts attaching the bearing cage and brake backing plate to the axle housing. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

17 Install the right-side axle into the housing without a shim or O-ring in place, and temporarily tighten the attaching nuts to a torque of 5 in-lbs.

When theaxle is installed in this manner, agapwill existbetween the bearing case and the axle housing end flange, which must be measured with a feeler gauge (see illustration).

18 Separate the axle shaft from the housing and select a shim with a thickness equal to the gap measured in the previous step. Also, select a shim with a thickness of from 0.020 to 0.079-inch. A list of available preload adjusting shims is included in the Specifications ning of this Chapter.

19 Install the previously selected shims

Section and a new O-ring at the begin- into place on the end of the axle housing:

20 Apply a thin, even coat of silicone-type gasket sealer to the mating surface of the bearing case and carefully install the axle assembly into the housing. Install the lock washers and nuts and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

21 Using a dial indicator, check the axial play of the axle shaft by pulling out and pushing in on the axle shaft hub. If the play,is more or less than specified, remove the right-side axle again and replace the shims with shims that are thicker or thinner, as required.

22 Reinstall the axle and recheck the axial play. If necessary, procedure until the correct amount of play is obtained. repeat the

23 Install the parking brake cables, hookup the brake linesand install the brake drums by referring to Chapter 9. Also, bleed the brakes at the rear wheel cylinder as described in Chapter 9.

24 Tighten the rear axle housing drain plug to the torque specified in

Chapter 1 and fill the housing to the proper level with the recommended gear lubricant (see the Recommended Lubricants and Fluids Section at the front of Chapter 1). Install the filler plug and tighten it to the specified torque. i

25 Install the wheels, lower the vehicle to the ground and test drive it.

Check for leaks where the wheel bearing case attaches to the rear axle i housing.

17 Pinion bearing oil seal - replacement

1 It isn’t uncommon for front or rear bearing oil seal to fail, resulting in gear lubricant leaking past the the seal and onto the driveshaft flange yoke. The seal can be easily replaced without removing the differential.

2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Remove the drain and fill plugs and drain the lubricant into a suitable container. After the lubricant has drained, install the plugs finger tight.

4 Separate the driveshaft from the differential and hang it out of the way by a piece of wire from the underbody (see Section 12).

5 Remove the differential pinion nut. On the 4WD model front differential, have an assistant apply the brakes to lock the front wheels from turning. On reardifferentials, engage the parking braketo locktherearwheels.

6 Use a gear puller tool to detach the differential flange yoke.

8-12 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

1 Steering knuckle and driveaxle assemblies

2 Inner shaft

3 Circlip

18.6 Front axle differential details

4 Front drive shaft -.

5 Self-locking nut

6 Left differential mounting bracket

7:-

Differential housing

Bolts

Front suspension crossmember

7 Carefully pry off the dust cover for access to the seal. Note which side of thesealfacesoutandpryitoutof thedifferential, takingcarenottodam- age the pinion shaft splines.

8 ‘Clean the seal outside diameter and the contact surfaces of the differential and pinion shaft.

9 Lubricate the seal lip with moly-base grease and place It in position In the differential. Working around the circumference, a little at a time, tap the seat evenly into the differential using a hammer and block of wood until it’s fully seated.

10 Install the seal dust cover.

11 Clean the contact surface of the differential end yoke and apply a thin coat of moly-base grease. Install the yoke onto the pinion shaft, rotating it as necessary to line up the splines.

12 Tap the yoke fully into place with a soft face hammer, then install the large washer and a new se!f-locking nut on the pinion shaft.

13 To help seat the pinion shaft bearings properly, release the brakes

(front differential) or parking brake (rear differential) and snug up the nut while holding one of the wheels to keep the shaft from turning as it is tightened.

14 Tighten the nut to the torque in the Specifications Section atthe beginning of this Chapter. This torque figure is very important because it determines the preload on the pinion shaft bearings.

15 Connect the driveshaft and fill the differential wtth the specified lubricant (Chapter 1). Tighten the fill and drain plugs securely.

16 Lower around the vehicle, the prnion and yoke,

18 Front differential and installation test drive assembly it, then check

(4WD models) for evidence

- removal of leakage 1

Refer to illustration 18.6

1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Drain the lubricant

Remove the driveaxles

Remove the wheels. from the differential (Chapter 1) and pull the inner shaft out of the right side m - axle tube (a slide hammer-type tool with a flange adapter may be required to remove the inner shaft from the differential).

4 Remove the front driveshaft (see Section 12).

5 Support the differential assembly with a floor tack.

6 Remove the left differential mounting bracket and the bolt holding the right b&cket to the frame (see illustration).

7 Remove the front crossmember-to-frame the differential and crossmember as a unit. bolts and carefully lower

8 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. E&sure to tighten 1 the bolts/nuts securely and refill the differential with the recommended lubricant (Chapter 1). f

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline ’

19.3a On manual locking hubs, the cover is held in place by bolts (arrows)

19.3b On manual locking hubs, remove the snap-ring, then the bolts (arrows)

19.4a On automatic free-wheeling hubs, the cap can be unscrewed by hand or with a wrench such as this oil filter wrench

19.4b Lock the hub from turning with a large screwdriver and use a socket with the proper head to remove the bolts

19.6 A special socket is required to remove the locknut and free the hub - lockwashers are held in place by screws

19 Front hub assembly (4WD models) - removal, bearing repack, installation and adjustment

Refertoillustrations 19.3a, 19.3b, 19.4a, 19.4b, 19.6, 19.‘9, 19.21, 19.23,

19.25 and 19.26

Note: Special too/s and a great deal of care are required to remove and install the hub on 4 WD models, so be sure to read through the entireproce- dure before beginning work. It may be a good idea to leave the job to a dealer sewice department or repair shop.

Removal

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

2 Refer to Chapter 9 and remove the brake caliper/pad assembly. Do not disconnect the hose from the caliper and do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose-support it with a section of stiff wire so there is no strafn on the hose.

3 On manual free-wheeling hub models, turn the control handle to the free position and remove the hub cover (see illustration). Remove the snap-ring from the end of the driveaxle with snap-ring pliers, then remove the bolts and separate the free-wheeling hub assembly from the wheel hub by pulling it straight out (see illustration).

4 On automatic free-wheeling hub models, unscrew the free-wheeling

8-14 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

3’

_ Vehicles with manual free wheelmg hub

‘f:

19.9 Typical free-wheeling hub components-exploded

1 Seal

2 Inner wheel bearing

3 Brake disc

4 Hub

5 Outer wheel bearing

6 Locknut

7 Lockwasher

8 Shim/spacer

9 Snap-ring

10 Manual locking hub

II Automafic locking hub view

Vehicles with automatrc free wheeling hub

19.21 Check the hub turning force with a spring scale hub cover (if it cannot be done by hand, wrap a rag around it and use an oil filter wrench, large pipe wrench or similar tool to loosen it) (see illustration). Remove the O-ring from the hub cover, then remove the snap-ring and spacer/shim from the end of the driveaxle. Loosen and remove the bolts (a special tool is needed for this), then detach the free-wheeling hub from the wheel hub by pulling straight out on it (see illustration).

5 On all models, remove the screws and detach the lockwasher from the hub. ~.

6 Using the special socket (available from your dealer or most auto parts stores) and a breaker bar, remove the locknut (see illustration).

7 Carefully remove the hub from the spindle (don’t drop the outer bear- ha.

19.23 Use a dial indicator to check the hub axial play

Bearing repack

8 Use a screwdriver to pry the grease seal out of the rear of the hub. As this is done, note how the seal is installed.

9 Remove the inner wheel bearing from the hub (see illustratiori).7

10 Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearin@, hub and spindle. A small brush may prove helpful; however make sure no bristles from the brush embed themselves inside the bearing rollers. Altow the parts to air dry.

11 Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, Won rollers, etc. Check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage.

If the bearing races are defective, the hubs should be taken to a macf%e shop with the facilities to remove the old races and press new ones%

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline 8-15

19.25 Apply sealant to the shaded area of the hub mounting surfaces (manual hub models)

19.26 Make sure the key and keyway are aligned as shown when installing the automatic locking hub

Note that the bearings and races come as matched sets and old bearings should never be installed on new races.

12 Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings. Work the grease completely into the bearings, forcing it between the rollers, cone and cage from the back side.

13 Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat.

14 Put a small quantity of grease behind each bearing race inside the hub. Using your finger, form a dam at these points to provide for extra grease and to keep thinned grease from flowing out of the bearing.

15 Placethegrease-packed inner bearing intothe rearofthe hubandput a little more grease outside of the bearing.

16 Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap the seal evenly into place with a hammer and block of wood until it’s flush with the hub.

17 Apply a thin coat of grease to the seal lip.

Installation and adjustment

18 Slide the hub into place on the wheel spindle (be careful not to damage the seal), then install the outer wheel bearing and adjust the bearing preload as follows:

19 Using the special tool and a torque wrench, tighten the locknutto 94 to

145 ft-lbs while turning the hub by hand.

20 Loosen the locknutto relieve the pressure on the bearing, then retighten it to 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm).

21 grees,

On 1983 models (manual then install the lockwasher. free-wheeling hub), backthe nut off 30-de-

If the holes in the lockwasher and locknut do not line up, loosen the locknut (20-degrees maximum). Attach a spring scale to one of the wheel nut studs and pull on the scale to see how much force is required to turn the hub (see illustration). ltshould takeone to four pounds of force. If it doesn’t, repeat the locknuf tightening procedure. Apply grease to the inner surfaces of the free-wheeling bly and coat the mating surfaces of the hubs with semi-drying hub assem- gasket sealant, then install the free-wheeling hub and tighten the bolts in a criss- cross pattern. Check the axial play of the driveaxle and make sure it is within the specified range (see thedriveaxle installation procedure in Sec- tion 20), then install the hub cover assembly with the control handle and clutch in the free position. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

22 On 1984 models, loosen the locknut about 30 to 40 degrees, then check the force required to turn the hub as described in Step 21 (it should be one to four pounds). Install the lockwasher. On models with automatic free-wheeling hubs, adjust the brake contact surface depth by adding or removing shims (see this Chapter’s Specifications).

23 On 1985 and later models, loosen the locknut about 30 to40-degrees, then check the force required to turn the hub as described in Step 21 (it should be one to four pounds). Check the axial play of the wheel hub as shown in the accompanying illustration (see this Chapter’s Specifica- tions), then install the lockwasher. If the holes in the lockwasherand locknut do not line up, loosen the locknut slightly (40-degrees

24 On 1984 and later models, install the free-wheeling maximum). hub assembly.

25 On models with a manual hub, apply grease to the inner surfaces of the free-wheeling hub assembly and coat the mating surfaces of the hubs with semi-drying gasket sealant, then install the free-wheeling hub and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern (see illustration). On 1984 models only, check the axial play of the driveaxle and make sure it is within the specified range (see the driveaxle installation procedure in Section 20). .

On all models, install the hub cover assembly with the control handle and clutch in the Free position. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross

26 On 1984 models with an automatic hub, apply semi-drying pattern. gasket sealant to the hub mating surfaces, then align the key of Brake B with the keyway in the spindle as shown in the accompanying stall the hub assembly. Make sure the free-wheeling illustration and in- hub and the wheel hub make contact when light pressure is applied to the free-wheeling hub

(if they don’t, turn the hub as required). Install the mounting bolts and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern. Install the shim/spacer and snap-ring on the end of the driveaxle. Recheck the hub turning force and compare it to the figure obtained before the free-wheeling hub was installed. The difference should be less than 3.1 pounds - if it isn’t, the free-wheeling probably installed incorrectly (removeand reinstall it). Checkthedriveaxle hub is axial play and compare it to. the Specifications at the beginning of this

Chapter (see Section 20 for the driveaxle installation procedure).

27 On 1985 and 1986 models with an automatic hub, recheck the hub - turning force with a spring scale, then align the key of brake B with the slot in the spindle and install the hub assembly (see illustration 19.26). Make sure the free-wheeling hub and the wheel hub make contact when light pressure is applied to the free-wheeling hub (if they don’t, turn ihe hub as required). Install the mounting bolts and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern, then install the shim and snap-ring on the end of tl-ie driveaxle. Re- check the hub turning force and compare it to the figure obtained before the free-wheeling hub was installed. The difference should be less than three pounds - if it isn’t, the free-wheeling hub is either assembled or installed incorrectly (remove and reinstall it and/or disassemble semble it). Remove the free-wheeling hub and apply semi-drying and reas- gasket sealantto the hub mating surfaces. Then reinstall it and tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

28 On 1984 through 1986 models with an automatic hub, apply grease to the cover O-ring and attach it to the cover. Install the cover and tighten it securely.

29 On all models, reinstall the brake caliper and wheel and lowerthe vehicle to the ground.

-..-

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

20.6 The right driveaxle is attached to the inner shaft with bolts and nuts (arrows)

20.12 Check the driveaxle axial (end) play with a dial indicator

21.2 Remove the DOJ outer race circiip with a screwdriver 21.4 Raise the bails with a screwdriver the cage to remove them from

21.5 Turn the cage IO-degrees to disengage race, then slide it down the driveaxle it from the inner shaft

20 Front driveaxles (4WD models) - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 20.6 and 20.12

Removal

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely with jackstands, then remove the wheels and the brake caliperassemblies (see Chapter9).

21.6 Remove the snap-ring, the inner race and the circiip from the shaft

Do notdisconnectthe hosesfromthecalipersanddo to hang by the hoses-suspend them with pieces notallowthecalipers of stiff wire so there is no strain on the hoses.

2 Detach the free-wheeling snap-rings hub cover from the end of the driveaxles. assemblies

Manual and hub covers remove the are held In place with several bolts, while automatic hub covers can be unscrewed from the hub (see Section 19).

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline 8-17

B 1 boot

Boo! band

‘D 0.1 boot

20-11 #dlOO

Identification stamp mark

21.14 Boot and band installation details 21.7 Wrap the splines with tape to prevent damage to the boot as it is removed

3 Remove each steering knuckle and front hub assembly as a unit (see

Chapter 10).

4 Grasp the inner and outer joints and pull the left driveaxle out of the differential. Be careful not to damage the differential oil seal with the driveaxle inner splines as it is removed.

5 Use a jack to raise the right lower suspension arm, theniemove nuts and detach the shock absorber from the upper mount. the

Caution: Do not lower the jack until after the shock absorber has been reattached.

6 Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the rightdriveaxle inner shaft flange to the

(see illustration), then carefully pull out the driveaxle. Re- move the circlip from the inner end of the leftdriveaxle new one. and replace it with a

Ins talla tion

7 Attach therightdriveaxletothe innershaftflange, installthe boltsand nuts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications’.

8 Attach the right shock absorber to the upper mount bracket and tighten the nuts.

9 Install the left driveaxle in the differential and seat it by tapping on the outer end with a soft-face hammer.

10 Install each steering knuckle and hub assembly and attach the balljoints, then adjust the driveaxle play as follows:

11 Install the snap-ring on the end of the driveaxle, but do not install the spacer/shim.

12 Mount a dial indicator on the front hub or brake disc and position the stem of the dial indicator against the end of the driveaxle as shown in the accompanying illustration.

13 Move the driveaxle in and out and note the reading on the indicator.

This is the axial (end) play. Note: On vehicles with automaticlocking hubs, turn the driveaxle in both directions until resistance is felt (this is the center of the turning stroke), then check the driveaxle play with the dial indicator.

14 If the axial play is not as specified, select ashimlspacerfrom the sizes available that will produce the correct play.

21 Front driveaxle boot replacement and Constant Velocity (CV) joint overhaul (4WD models)

Refer to illustrations21.2, 21.4, 21.5, 21.6, 21.7, 21.14 and21.19

Note 1: If the CVjoints exhibit signs of wear indicating need for an overhaul (usually due to torn boots), explore all options before beginning the job. Complete rebuilt drive&es are available on an exchange which eliminates much time and work. Whichever basis, route you choose to take, check on the cost and availability ofparts before disassembling the vehicle.

Note 2: Obtain a new rubber bootkit for each joint on the driveaxle before beginning disassembly do not disassemble they are worn or damaged, new driveaxles the Birfield (outer) joints - if are in order.

1 Remove the boot bands by prying up the ends with ascrewdriveror cutting them off (new bands must be used during reassembly). by

2 Use a screwdriver

(see illustration). to remove the large circlip from the DOJ outer race

3 Pull the driveaxle out the the DOJ outer race and wipe away as much of the grease as possible.

4 Push the balls in the DOJ cage up with a screwdriver them (see illustration). and remove

5 Separate the cage from the inner race by turning it 30-degrees pull off the inner race and slide the cage and sliding it down the driveaxle (see illustration).

6 Remove the snap-ring from the driveaxle with snap-ring pliers, then off the shaft (see illustration).

7 Remove the circlip and the boots from the driveaxle. Wrap tape around the splines on the DOJ end of the shaft so the boots are not damaged by the splines (see illustration).

8 Remove the dust covers with a large screwdriver.

9 Clean all of the components with solvent, then check the dust covers for damage and wear. Look for water, rust, foreign material and damage in the Birfield joints.

IO Inspect the driveaxle shafts for distortion and worn splines. Check all circlips for distortion and cracks.

11 Check the rubber boots for damage and cracks. Note: Replace boots with new ones, even if they appear to be in good condition. the

12 Checkthe cage, inner race, outer race and balls of each DOJ joint for wear and damage.

13 Drivenewdustcoversontothejointswithasectionofpipeandaham- mer. For Birfield joints, the pipe must be 2.71 O-inches in outside diameter with a O.OQO-inch wall thickness. For DOJ joints, the pipe must be

2.240-inches in outside diameter with a wall thickness of 0.240-inch.

14 Wrap tape around the driveaxle splines, then install the new boots and bands on the shaft. The Birfield and DOJ boots are different sizes and shapes, so make sure they are correctly positioned on the shaft tration).

(see illus-

15 Slip the DOJ cage onto the shaft, smaller diameter first. Install the circlip and make sure it is seated in the shaft groove, then install the inner race and snap-ring. Make sure the snap-ring is seated in the groove.

16 Apply the specified grease (included with the boot kit) to the DOJ inner race and cage. Slip the cage into place on the inner race and turn it

30-degrees to align the ball races, then install the balls and lubricate them with the grease.

17 Pack the DOJ outer race with 1.8 to 2.8 ounces of the specified grease, then slide it onto the driveaxle while aligning the balls and races.

18 Pack an additional 1.8 to2.Sounces of grease into the outer race, behind the inner race and cage, then install the circlip (make sure it is seated in the groove).

8-18 Chapter 8 Clutch and driveline

21.19 The DOJ boot dimension band@amps must be as shown when the are installed

19 Slip the boot over the outer race and adjust the joint until the dimen- sfonshown in the accompanying illustration is achieved. Slip a screwdriver between the joint and boot to equalize the pressure, then install the band clamps (follow the directions in the boot kit).

20 Patik the grease supplied with the boot kit into the Birfield joint to replace the grease that was wiped off, then install the boot (the clamping instructions are supplied with the boot kit).

21 Repeat the procedure for the remaining driveaxle.

2i Fronf axle disconnect and replacement solenoid and actuator - check

Refer to illustration 22.1

1 On some 4WD models, the front axle is engaged into four-wheel drive by a vacuum-operated ates a free-wheeling solenoid valve assembly and actuator which oper- clutch assembly (see illustration).

Check

2 With the engine running, disconnect the hose from the vacuum source and check for strong vacuum.

3 Disconnect the electrical connectors bly and check for 12 volts at the connector’s from the solenoid valve assem- blue-yellow wire. Check for continuity to ground at the yellow-green wire (with four-wheel drive en; ww-0.

4 With the solenoid valves disconnected, check the resistance across the solenoid terminals. The resistance should be 36 to 46 ohms at 60-degrees F. If not within these specifications, sembly. replace the solenoid valve as-

5 Turn off the engine and check the vacuum hoses and pipes from the solenoid valve assembly to the actuator for kinks, cracks, or other damage.

6 Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the actuator and, with a hand vacuum pump, apply vacuum to one side and then the otherofthe actuator (be sure to cap the other side when applying vacuum). The actuator should shift the free-wheeling clutch in and out. If it doesn’t, replace the actuator.

Replacement

7 To replace the solenoid valve assembly, remove the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors from the solenoid valves.

8 Remove the fasteners and replace the solenoid valve assembly.

9 To replace the actuator, remove the vacuum hoses and pin connecting the shift rod to the actuator.

10 Remove the fasteners and replace the actuator assembly.

22.1 The front axle disconnect free-wheeling clutch assembly

4WD models solenoid, actuator used on some and later

Vacuum hoses

Check valve

Solenoid valve electrical connectors

Solenoid valve assembly

Vacuum pipe assembly

Vacuum tank

Actuator assembly

Differential mounting bracket

Housing tube

Free-wheeling

Gasket engage switch

Free-wheeling clutch assembly

Front differential camkr assembly

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Contents

Air conditioning

Air conditioning system - check and maintenance system compressor - removal

. . . . . . . . . . . . . and installation . . .

16 system condenser - removal and installation . . . 17

Air conditioning

Air conditioning system evaporator system -general

- removal and installation . . . . 18 information . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . 13

Air conditioning receiver/drier

Antifreeze - general information

- removal and installation . . . . . . . . 15

. . . . . . . . . _ . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . _ 2

Blower motor - removal and installation

Coolant reservoir - removal and installation

. . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Coolant temperature gauge sending unit-check and replacement . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . _ _ , . . . . _ _ _ . . . . . _ _ . . . . 9

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) ...........................

Engine cooling fan and clutch - check and replacement

General information ......................................

Heater/air conditioning control assembly - removal

$. ... See Chapter 1

........ 5

1 and installation ......................................

Heater core - removal and installation

Heating system - general information

Radiator - removal and installation

Thermostat - check and replacement

Waterpump-check..

............

.................

..........................

.......................

..................................

Waterpump-replacement ................................

_ .. _-. ......

_ .....

7 .’

Specifications

General

Coolant type and capacity . . . . . . . .

Thermostat opening temperature . .

Radiator cap pressure’rating

Refrigerant capacity

. . . . .

. : . . . . . . . . .

. . . . .

. . . . ,

. . . . *

. . . . .

...............

Torque specifications

Cooling fan bolts _ . . . . _ . . . .

Fan clutch bolts . . . . . . . . . _ . .

Water pump bolts

Small bolts.. . . . _ _ . . . . . . .

Large bolts . . . . . _ . . . . _ . .

Coolant temperature

Coolant temperature switch . sensor .

. .

. _

. . . . .

. . . . . . 1 . .

. . . _ . * . . .

. . . . .

. . . I .

L .

. .

..-..

. . . . .

. . . . . . . . .

. . . . . 1 . 1 .

. . . . . _ L . . .

. . . . . . . . .

. . . . .

. . . L.

”

See Chapter 1

180 to 195-degrees F

12to15psi

Approx. 25 to 30 ounces

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

84 to 108 in-lbs

72 to 84 in-lbs

108 to 132 in-lbs

15to20

22 to 29

14to29

3-2

cold

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

hot

Radiator

1 General information

1.2 Coolant flow with the engine cold and hot pressure relief valve and the plumbing connecting all of the above components.

A blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger through the evaporator core (sort of heat from the air to the refrigerant. a radiator-in-reverse), compartment transferring the

The liquid refrigerant boils off into low pressure vapor, taking the heat with it when it leaves the evaporator.

Refer to illustration 1.2

Engine cooling system

All vehicles covered by this manual employ a pressurized ing system with thermostatically controlled coolant circulation. engine cool-

An impeller-type water pump mounted on the front of the block pumps coolant through the engine. The coolant flows around each cylinder and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in coolant passages direct coolant around the intake and exhaust ports, near the spark plug areas and in close proximity to the exhaust valve guides.

A wax peilet-type thermostat is located in a housing near the front of the engine. During warm-up, the closed thermostat prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. As the engine nears normal operating temperature, the thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to travel through the radiator, where it’s cooled before returning to the engine (see

Illustration).

The cooling system is sealed by a pressure type radiator cap, which raises the boiling point of the coolant and increases the cooling efficiency of the radiator. If the system pressure exceeds the cap pressure relief value, the excess pressure in the system forces the spring-loaded valve inside the cap off its seat and allows the coolant to escape through the overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. When the system cools the excess coolant is automatically drawn from the reservoir back into the radiator.

The coolant reservoir does double duty as both the point at which fresh coolant is added to the cooling system to maintain the proper fluid level and as a holding tank for overheated coolant.

This type of cooling system is known as a closed design because coolant that escapes past the pressure cap is saved and reused.

2 Antifreeze -general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately wafer. /f consumed, ant/freeze can be fatal; children andpets with plenty of are attraiSd by its sweet taste, so wipe up garage floor and drip pan coolant spikim- mediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered and repair leaks in your cooling system as soon as they are noticed.

Thecoolingsystemshould befilledwithawater/ethyleneglycoI-based antifreeze solution, which will prevent freezing down to at least -20-degrees F, or lower if local climate requires it. It also provides protection against corrosion and increases the coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled at the specified intervals (see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated antifreeze solutions are likely to cause damage and encourage the formation of rust and scafe in the system. Use distilled water with the antifreeze.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hose connections, because an%- freezetendstoleakthroughveryminuteopenings. Enginesdon’tnormtiy consume coolant, so if the level goes down, find the cause and corre3Tt.~

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use depends on the relative weather conditions. The mixture should contain& least 50 percent antifreeze. but should never contain more than 70 percent antifreeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers to testthecoolant. Use antifreeze are available which meets at most auto parts thevehicle stores manufacturer’s specifications.

Heating system

The heating system consists of a blower fan and heater core located in the heater box, the hoses connecting the heater core to the engine cooling system and the heater/air conditioning control head on the dashboard.

Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater core. When the heater mode is activated, a flap door opens to expose the heater box to the pas- sengercompartment. A fan switch on the control head activates the blower motor, which forces air through the core, heating the air.

3 Thermostat - check and replacement

Air conditioning system

The air conditioning system consists of a condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an evaporator mounted adjacent to the heater core, a compressor mounted on the engine, a receiver/drier which contains a high-

Warning: thermostat

Donotremove the radiatorcap, drain the coolantorreplace until the engine has cooled completely the

Check

1

Before assuming the thermostat is to blame for a cooling system problem, check the coolant level, water pump (see Section 7), drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1) and temperature gauge (or light) operation. _~

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-3

3.10a Removing the thermostat housing

3.10~ Thermostat installation details (3.OL engine)

1 Upper radiator hose

2 Thermostat housing

Gasket

Thermostat

’

IN Gr

3.10b Thermostat installation details (2.OL and 2.4L engines)

I Upper radiator hose

2 Thermostat housing

Gasket

Thermostat

3.13 Thermostat installation (2.6L engine shown)

2 If the engine seems to be taking a long time to warm up (based on heateroutputortemperaturegaugeoperation), thethermostatisprobably stuck open. Replace the thermostat with a new one.

3 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to check the temperature of the upper radiator hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is, the thermostat is probably stuck closed, preventing the coolant inside the engine from escaping to the radiator. Replace the thermostat. Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The computer may stay in open loop and emissions and fuel economy will suffer.

4 If the upper radiator hose is hot, it means that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is open. Consult the Troubleshooting Section at the front of this manual for cooling system diagnosis.

Replacemen f

Refer to illustrations 3.1 Oa, 3.1 Ob, 3.1 Oc and 3.13

5 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

6 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition (see Chapter l), save it and reuse it.

7 Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the thermostat housing.

8 Loosen the hose clamp, then detach the hose from the fitting. If it’s stuck, grasp it near the end with a pair of Channelock pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If the hose is old or deteriorated, cut it off and install a new one.

9 If the outer surface of the large fitting that mates with the hose is deteriorated (corroded, pitted, etc.) it may be damaged further by hose removal. If it is, the thermostat housing cover will have to be replaced.

10 Remove the bolts and detach the housing cover(seeillustrations). the cover is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammerto jar it loose. Be prepared for some coolant to spijl as the gasket seal is broken.

11 Note how it’s installed (which end is facing up), then remove the thermostat.

12 Stuff a rag into the engine opening, then remove all traces of old gasket material andsealantfrom the housing and coverwith agasketscraper.

Remove the rag from the opening and clean the gasket mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

13 Install the new thermostat in the housing. Make sure the correct end facesup-thespringendisnormallydirectedintotheengine(seeillustration).

. Z’

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

4.6 Typical radiator installation i Air duct

2 Radiator cap

3 Drain plug

4 Reservoir hose

5 Upper radiator hose

6 Lower radiator hose i i details

7 Upper fan shroud

8 Lower fan shroud

9 Cooler hoses (automatic transmission

10 Radiator

Overflow

Coolant tube reservoir on/yJ

14 Apply a thin, uniform layer of RTV sealant to both sides of the new gasket and position it on the housing.

15 Install the cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this

Chapter’s Specitications.

16 Reattach the hose to the fitting and tighten the hose clamp securely.

17 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

18 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for leaks

Steps 2 through 4). and proper thermostat operation (as described in

4 Radiator - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 4.6

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely procedure. cool before beginning this

1 Disconnect the negative battery cab!e from the battery.

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it. If necessary for clearance, remove the air duct.

3 Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the radiator hoses from the fittings. If they’re stuck, grasp each hose near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off - be careful not to distort the radiator fittings! If the hoses are old or deteriorated, and install new ones.

4 Disconnect the reservoir hose from the radiator filler neck. cut them off

5 If equipped, remove the screws that attach the upper fan shroud to the radiator and slide the shroud toward the engine. Remove the lower shroud, on models so equipped.

6 , If the vehicle the cooler hoses is equipped with an automatic from the radiator transmission,

(see illustration). disconnect

Use a drip pan to catch spilled fluid.

7 Plug the lines and fittings

8 Remove the radiator mounting bolts.

9 Carefully lift out the radiator. Don’t spill coolant on the vehicle or scratch the paint.

10 With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and damage.

If it needs repair, have a radiator shop or dealer service department perform the work as special techniques are required.

11 Bugs and dirt can be removed from the radiator with compressed and a soft brush. Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done. air

12 Check the radiator mounts for deterioration nothing in them when the radiator is installed. and make sure there’s

13 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

14 After installation, fill the cooling system with the proper mixture of antifreeze and water. Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.

15 Start the engine and check for leaks. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature, indicated by the upper radiator hose becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level and add more if required.

16 If you’re working on an automatic transmission equipped vehicle, check and add fluid as needed.

5 Engine cooling fan and clutch -check and replacement

Warning: To avoidpossible iniury or damage, DO NOToperate the engine with a damaged fan. Do not attempt to repair fan blades - replace a damaged fan with a new one.

Check

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable and rock the fan back and forth by hand to check for excessive beating play.

2 With the engine cold, turn the fan blades by hand. The fan should turn freely.

3 Visually inspect for substantial fluid leakage from the clutch assembly. If problems are noted, replace the clutch assembly.

4 With the engine completely disconnect the negative battery warmed cable up, turn off the ignition from the battery. switch and

Turn the fan by hand. Some drag should be evident. If the fan turns easily, replace the fan clutch.

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-5

5.6 Typical fan and clutch assembly installation details

1 Upper fan shroud

2-5 Drivebelts

6 Fan and clutch assembly

Replacement

Refer to illustration 5.6

5 Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fan shroud mounting screws and detach the shroud (see illustration 4.6).

6 Remove the bolts/nuts attaching the fan/clutch assembly to the water pump hub (see illustration).

7 Lift the fan/clutch assembly (and shroud, if necessary) out of the engine compartment.

8 Carefully inspect the fan blades for damage and defects. Replace it if necessary.

9 At this point, the fan may be unbolted from the clutch, if necessary. if the fan clutch is stored, position it with the radiator side facing down.

IO installation is the reverse of removal Be sure to tighten the fan and clutch mounting nuts/bolts evenly and securely.

6 Coolant reservoir - removal and installation

1 The coolant reservoir is located on the right fendenveli. it should be removed periodically and checked for cracks and other damage, and flushed with clean water. Note: On 1990andlatermodek thereservoiris located on the left fenderwell.

2 To remove the reservoir, carefully pry off the cap with the hose attached and lay the cap aside.

3 Pull out the reservoir and simultaneously pull up and slide the reservoir off its mount.

4 To install the reservoir, line it up with the mount and push down until it is properly s’eated. Don’t forget to install the cap.

7.5 Grasp the water pump flange and try to rock the shaft back and forth to check for play (fan and pulley shown removed for clarity)

4 Water pumps are equipped with weep or vent holes. If a failure occurs in the pump seal, coolant will leak from the hole. in most cases you’ll need aflashiighttofind$e holeon thewaterpumpfrom underneathtocheckfor leaks.

5 if the water pump shaft bearings fail, there may be a howling sound at the front of the engine while it’s running. Shaft wear can be felt if the water pump pulley is rocked up and down (see illustration). Don’t mistake drivebeltslippage,whichcausesasquealingsound,forwater ure. bearingfail-

7 Wateppump -check

8 Water pump -replacement

Refer to illustration 7.5

1 A failure in the water pump can cause serious engine damage due: to overheating.

2 There are three ways to check the operation of the water pump while it’s installed on the engine. If the pump is defective, it should be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit.

3 With the engine running at normal operating temperature, squeeze the upper radiator hose. if the water pump is working properly, a pressure surge should be felt as the hose is released. Warning: Keep yourhands away from the fan blades!

26L engine

Removal

Refer to illustration 8.8

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool tiefore beginning this procedure.

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it.

3-6 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

8.8 Typical water pump installation details

(2.6L engine)

1 Lower radiator hose

7 Water pump pulley

8 Heater hose

9 Water pump

10 Gasket

6 " c-

..'

,/I/

8.28 Typical water pump installation details

(2.4L and 1983 and later 2.OL engines)

3 Air conditioner

8 Crankshaft pulley tensioner pulley

9 Crankshaft pulley

10 Upper timing belt cover ii Lower timing be/t cover

12 Timing belt tensioner

13 77ming be/f

14 Lower radiator hose

15 Heater hose

16 Waterpump

17 Gasket

18 O-ring

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3 Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly (se”e Section 5).

4 Disconnect and remove the lower radiator hose and heater hose.

5 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1). Note: To remove the aircon- ditioning belt, completely remove the adjustment bracket assembly.

6 Remove the cooling fan and water pump pulley.

7 Remove the alternator bracket from the water pump.

8 Remove the bolts and detach the water pump from the engine. Note the locations of the various lengths and different types of bolts as they’re removed to ensure correct installation (see illustration).

Installation

9 Clean the bolt threadsand corrosion and sealant. the threaded holes in the engine to remove

10 Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they’re identical.

11 Remove all traces of old gasket material fr?m the engine with a gasket scraper.

12 Clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

13 Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the engine side of the new gasket and to the gasket mating surface of the new pump, then carefully mate the gasket and the pump. Slip a couple of bolts through the pump mounting holes to hold the gasket in place.

14 Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and thread the bolts into the holes finger tight. Note that the bolt on the left side of the pump (that attaches the alternator brace) is longer than the other four bolts. Be sure to install the bolt(s) with the correct length into the corresponding water pump holes.

15 Place the alternator bracket in position, install the bolts and tighten all the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications crements. Don’t overtighten them or the pump in l/4-turn may be distorted.. in-

16 Reinstall all parts removed for access to the pump.

17 Refill the cooling system and check thedrivebelt

1). Run the engine and check for leaks. tension (see Chapter

2.OL;2.4L and 3,OL engines

Removal

Refer to illustration 8.28

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure.

18 Disconne,ct the negative battery cable from the battery.

19 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it.

20 Remove the radiator fan shroud (see Section 4).

21 Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).

22 Remove the air conditioner tensioner pulley.

23 Remove the fan and fan clutch (see Section 5).

24 Remove the water pump pulley.

25 Remove the crankshaft pulleys (see Chapter 2, Part B).

26 Remove the timing belts (see Chapter 2, Part B).

27 Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump. If it’s stuck, grasp it near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If the hose is old or deteriorated, cut it off and install a new one.

28 Remove the boltsand detach the waterpump(see illustration). Note the locations and various lengths and different types of bolts as they’re removed to ensure correct installation.

Installation

29 Clean the bolt threads and the threaded holes in the engine to remove any corrosion and sealant.

30 Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they’re identical.

31 Removeall traces of old gasket material from the engine with a gasket scraper.

32 Clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

33 Install a new O-ring in the groove at the front end of the coolant pipe and lubricate the O-ring with coolant.

3-7

34 Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the engine side of the new gasket and to the gasket mating surface of the new pump, then carefully mate the gasket and the pump. Slip a couple of bolts through the pump mounting hole to hold the gasket in place.

35 Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and thread the bolts into the holes finger tight. Be sure to install the. bolts with the correct length into the corresponding water pump holes.

36 Tighten all bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications l/4-tumincrements. Don’tovertightenthemorthepump may bedistorted.

37 Refer to Chapter 2, part B for the installation of the timing belt(s).

38 Installation of all parts removed is the reverse of removal.

39 Refill the cooling system and check the drivebelt tension (see Chap- ter 1). Run the engine and check for leaks. in

Coolant temperature gauge sending unit-check and replacement

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure.

I The coolant temperature indicator system is composed of a light or temperature gauge mounted in the instrument panel and a coolant temperature sending unit mounted on the engine. Some vehicles have more than one sending unit, but only one is used for the indicator system.

2 If an overheating indication occurs, check the coolant level in the system and then make sure the wiring between the light or gauge and the sending unit is secure and all fuses are intact.

3 When the ignition switch is turned on and the starter motor is turning, the indicator light should be on (overheated engine indication).

4 If the light is not on, the bulb may be burned out, the ignition switch may be faulty or the circuit may be open. Test the circuit by grounding the wire to the sending unit while the ignition is on (engine not running for safety). If the gauge deflects full scale orthe light comes on, replace the sending’unit.

5 As soon as the engine starts, the light should go out and remain out unless the engine overheats. Failure of the light to go out may be due to a grounded wire between the light and the sending unit, a defective sending unit orafaulty ignition switch. Check the coolant to make sure it’s the prop- ertype. Plain water may have too low a boiling point to activate the sending unit.

6 If the sending unit must be replaced, simply unscrew it from the engine and install the replacement. Use sealant on the threads. Make sure the engine is cool before removing the defective sending unit. There will be some coolant loss as the unit is removed, so be prepared to catch it. Check the level after the replacement has been installed.

-___I

10 Heating system - general information

Refer to illustrations 10. la and 10. lb

The main components of the heating system include the heater unit

(which contains the heater core and cable-operated valves) the blower motor, the control assembly (mounted in the dash) and the air ducts which deliver the air to the various outlet locations (see illustrations).

Either outside air or interior (recirculated) air (depending on the settings) is drawn into the system through the blower unit. From there the blower motor forces the air into the heater unit.

The lever settings on the control assembly operate the valves in the heater unit, which determines the mix of heated and outside air by regulat- ing how much air passed through the heater core. The hotter the setting the more air is passed through core.

The air ducts carry the heated air from the heater unit to the desired location. Again, valves within the duct system regulate where in the vehicle the air will be delivered.

The heater core is heated by engine coolant passing through it. The heater hoses carry the coolant from the engine to the heater core and then back again.

’

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

I Defroster nozzle

2 Ventilator bezel

3 Heater assembly

10.1~1

Heater

Turbo fan

’ Blower

Heater unit and related motor resistor

9 components

Side ventilator

Defroster

Center

(1987 and earlier models) duct ventilator duct duct

Water

Heater valve core

12 Heater control panel assembly

10.1 b Heater unit and related components

(1988 and later models)

Glove box stopper

Glove box frame

Air selection wire connection

Duct

Blower assembly

Blower motor

Gasket

Fan

Resistor block

44 . -/

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-9

11.4 The blower motor is secured by three bolts (arrows) 12.7 Heater hose connections (pre-1988 models)

12.9 Heater assembly

(arrows) attaching

(pre-1988 bolts models) and nuts 12.14a To adjust the INSIDE/OUTSIDE the cable housing in the securing air control cable, move clip (pre-1988 models)

11 Blower motor - removal and installation

Refer to illusiration 11.4

1 The blower motor is attached to the heater assembly so it is automatically removed when the heater assembly is removed. It can also be taken out as a separate unit.

2 On 1987 and earlier models, remove the center console ‘(if so equipped - see Chapter 11) the center panel and the center ventilator grille and duct (see illustration lO.la). On 1988 and later models, it may be necessary to remove the glove box for access to the blower motor (see illustration lO.lb).

3 Unplug the motor electrical connector(s).

4 Remove the three bolts attaching the motor to the heater assembly, then lift out the motor and fan (see illustration).

5 installation is the reverse of removal.

12 Heater core - removal and installation

1987 and earlier models

Refer to illustrations 12.7, 12.9, 12.14a, 12.146 and 12.14~

1 To gain access to the heater core, the heater assembly should be removed from the vehicle.

2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

4 Remove the center console (see Chapter 11).

5 Remove the center panel and the center ventilator bezel (see illustration 10.1 a).

6 Disconnect the heater control cables at the heater assembly (not at the control assembly).

7 Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core. Use some rags near the hoses when disconnecting the fioses to catch any coolant that may run out (see illustration). the heater core.

Then plug the hoses and the inlets and outlets on

8 Unplug the blower motor wiring connectors.

9 Remove the two mounting bolts from the top and the two mounting nuts from the center of the heater assembly (see illustration).

IO Carefully lift out the heater assembly out of its mounting position.

11 Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the clips holding the heater assembly together, then remove the heater core.

12 Repair and cleaning of the heater core should be done by a radiator repair shop, or replace it with a new one.

13 Installation IS the reverse of removal.

14 Adjust the heater control cables (see illustrations).

15 After the heater assembly

Chapter 1). is in place, fill the cooling system (see

16 Place the heater control in the HOT position. Start the engine and allow, it to run to circulate the coolant to eliminate any air from the cooling system.

Add coolant as the level drops. Once the level has stabilized insfall the radiator pressure cap and check for leaks.

3-10 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

12.14b The control valve should be fully closed (lever “up”) with the heater control lever in the OFF position (move the cable housing in the securing clip to adjust it) (pre-1988 models)

12.14~ To adjust the DEF-HEAT-VENT damper, move the cable housing in the securing clip (pre-1988 models)

12 .I9 Heater unit - exploded view

(1988 and later models)

7 Heater hose connections

2 Instrument panel

3 Main duct

4 Center ventilator duct

5 Defroster duct

6 Center reinforcements

7 Heater unit

8 Grommet

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

, EVAPORATOR

HIGH PRESSURE

COMPRESSOR

CLUTCH

3-11

13.3 A typical air conditioning system schematic

14.7 Watch the receiver/drier sight glass and see if it looks clear inside (which is normal) - if it’s foamy inside, the system needs recharging

1988 and later moi7els

Refer to illustration 12.19

18 To remove the heater core, the heater unit must be removed from the vehicle.

19 tions

Working from the heater to catch inside spilled theenginecompartment, unit(see illustration). coolant. and the heater unit tubes.

After disconnect the heater hoses

Place rags underthe hoseconnec- disconnecting the hoses, plug them

20 Remove the instrument

21 Remove the main duct. panel (see Chapter

22 Remove the center ventilator duct.

11).

23 Remove the defroster duct.

24 Unbolt the center reinforcements (four bolts at the bottom and four nuts at the top) and remove the heater unit

25 If the heater unit is a split-type, remove the clips that hold the two halves of the heater unit together, then separate the halves and remove the heater core. _

26 If the heater unit cannot be split, remove the bolt from the joint hose clamp, cut off the joint hose and remove the heater core.

27 Installation is the reverse of removal.

28 After the heater assembly

Chapter 1). is in place, fill the cooling system (see

29 Place the heater control in the HOT position. Start the engine and allow it to run to circulate the coolant to eliminate any air from the cooling system.

30 Add coolant as the level drops. Once the level has stabilized install the radiator pressure cap and check for leaks.

13 Air conditioning system - general information

Refer to illustration 13.3

Warning: Theairconditioningsystemisunderhighpressure. en any hose fiffiing or remove any components

Donotloos- unfil after the system been discharged by a service station or automotive air conditioning

A/ways wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning has shop. fittings.

The air conditioning system used in these vehicles maintains proper temperature by cycling the compressor on and off according to the pressure within the systern, and by maintaining a mix of cooled, outside and heated air, using the same blower, heater core and outlet duct system that the heating system uses.

A fast-idle control device regulates idle speed when the air conditioner is operating.

The main components a condenser of the system include a belt-driven compressor,

(mounted in front of the radiator), a receiver/drier and an evaporator (see illustration).

The system operates by air (outside or recirculated) entering the evaporator core by the action of the blower motor, where it receives cooling,

When the air leaves the evaporator, it enters the heater/air conditioner duct assembly and, by means of a manually controlled deflector, either passes through or bypasses the heater core in the correct proportions provide the desired vehicle temperature. to

Distribution of this air into the vehicle is regulated by a manually operated deflector, and is directed either to the floor vents, dash vents or defroster vents according to settings,

14 Air conditioning system -check and maintenance

Refer to illustrations 14.7and 14.12

Warning: Theairconditiotiingsystemis en any fittings or remove any components underhighpressure. Donotloos- until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should .be properly discharged intoanEPA-approvedcontaineratadea/erservicedepartmentoranauto- motive air conditioning disconnecting repair air conditioning facility system

Always fittings wear eye protection when

Note: The 1988 through 1993 air conditioning systems use R- 12 refrigerant. In 1994, the refrigerantsystem mentally friendly, ” R-134a refrigerant. waschanged

Each touse system thenew, uses

“environ- similar com- ponentsandlocations, butcomponentsare NOTinterchangeable. Alldis- charging of refrigerant, forpans replacement done by an approved air conditioning facility or maintenance, with the proper should refrigerant be re- covery equipment.

1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis to ensure that the air conditioner continues to operate at peak efficiency. a) Checkthecompressordrivebelt. Ifit’swornordeteriorated, replace it (see Chapter 1). b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if necessary, adjust it (see Chap- ter 1). c) Check the system hoses, Lookforcracks, deterioration. Inspect the hoses bubbles, and all fittings hard spots for oil bubbles and and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, replace the hose(s). d) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,‘bugand.~~er a “fin comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser. debris e) Make sure the system has the correct refrigerant charge.

Use

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for about IO minutes at least once a month, particularly during thewinter. Long term non-usecan cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals.

3 Because of the complexity cial equipment necessary of the air conditioning system to service it, in-depth troubleshooting and the spe- and repairs are not included in this manual. However, simple checks and component replacement procedures are provided in, this Chapter, For more complete information on the air conditioning

Haynes automotive heating and air conditioning system, refer to the manual.

3-12 Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

14.12 Place a thermometer in the right-side to monitor cooling dashboard vent 16.5a refrigerant

Remove these four bolts (arrows) to disconnect lines from the compressor (far left bolt hidden the from view by connector) (1967 an&earlier models)

4 The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the following quick check will help you determine if the refrigerant level is low.

5 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature.

6 Place the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest setting and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors (to make sure the air conditioning system doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the passenger compartment).

7 With the compressor and thecenterof engaged-the the clutch will rotate-inspect which is located on the receiver/drier looks foamy, its low. Have a dealer service department ditioning repair facility charge the system.

8 If there’s no sight glass, feel the inlet and outlet pipes at the compressor. One side should be cold and one hot. If there’s no perceptible difference between compressororthesystsm. conditioning

15 shop. the else. Take the vehicle

Air conditioning two pipes,

It mightbealowcharge-it to a dealer receiver/drier there’s service clutch

- removal will make an audible the sight glass,

(see illustration). something department wrong and installation with might besomething or an automotive click if equipped,

If the refrigerant or licensed aircon- the air

Warning: disassemble

The air conditioning system is under high pressure. any part of the system (hoses, compressor,

DO NOT line fittings, etc.) until after the system ment or service station. has been depressurized by a dealer service depart-

1 The receiver/drier, cannister-shaped which acts as a reservoir for the refrigerant, object mounted either in the engine compartment front of the condenser (see illustration

2 Before removing the receiver/drier,

14.7). the system is the or in must be discharged by an conditioning technician (see Warningabove). DO NOTattempt to do this yourself; the refrigerant used in the system can cause serious injuries and respiratory irritation.

3 Loosen the hose clamps and remove both hoses from the receiver/ drier.

4 loosen the clamp and pull up on the receiver/receiver from its mount. to remove it

5 When installing the receiver/drier, lubricate the inside surfaces of the hoses and the outside of the fittings with refrigerant oil. Be sure the hose clamps are properly located by the clamp finders and securely tightened.

6 Have the system evacuated, that discharged it. recharged and leak tested by the shop

-z

16 Air conditioning and installation system compressor - removal

Refer to illustrations i6.5a and 16.5b

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble anypatt of the system (hoses, compressor, untilafter the system has been depresswized by a dealer line fittings, service etc.) deparf- mentor service station.

1 Have the air conditioning system discharged

2 Disconnect the negative battery cable

(see Warningabove). from the battery.

3 Disconnect the compressor clutch wiring harness.

4 Remove the drivebelt (see Chapter 1).

5 Disconnect the refrigerant fines from the rear of the compressor. the open fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture (see illustrations).

6 Unbolt the compressor from the mounting bracketsand

Plug lift it out of the vehicle.

7 A a new compressor compressor is being installed, follow the directions with the regarding the draining of excess oil prior to installation.

8 The clutch compressor. may have to be transferred from the original to the new

9 installation is the reverse of removal. Replace all O-rings with new ones specifically made for air conditioning system use and lubricate them with refrigerant oil.

IQ Have the system evacuited, that discharged it. recharged and leak tested by the shop

17 Air conditioning and installation system condenser - removal

Warning: The air conditioning disassembleanypartof system the system is under

(hoses, high pressure. compressor,

DO NOT fine fittings, etk) unfilaffer the system ment or service station. has been depressurized by a dealer service depart-

1 Have the air conditioning system discharged

2 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5).

(see Warningabove].

3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

4 Remove the radiator (see Chapter 3).

5 Disconnectthe

16.5b). refrigerant lines from thecondenser(seeillustration

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3-13

Receiver ’ drier

16.5b Air conditioning compressor, receiver/drier and condenser installation details

(1988 and later model shown - condenser on earlier models similar) m Original part la Evaporator assembly and related components

(pre-1988 models)

13.

Evaporator assembly

Sleeve duct

Fresh air duct

Fresh air cover gasket (right)

Fresh air cover (right)

Original part

Fresh air cover (left)

Fresh air cover gasket (lefi)

Original part

Baffle

Cable

Clip

Duct (right)

Center duct

Left lower duct

Left upper duct

Fan and temperature

Wiring harness

Fan knob

Temperature knob

Thermistor control box

Drain clamp

Drain hose go-degree elbow

Drain restrictor switch

6 Remove the mounting bolts from the condenser brackets.

7 Lift the condenser out of the vehicle and plug the lines to keep dirt and moisture out.

8 If the orfginal condenser will be reinstalled, store it with the line fittings on top to prevent oil from draining out.

9 If a new condenser is being installed, pour one ounce of refrigerant oil into it prior to installation.

10 Reinstall the components in the reverse order of removal. Be sure the rubber pads are in place under the condenser.

11 Have the system evacuated, recharged and leak tested by the shop that discharged it.

18 Air conditioning system evaporator - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 18. la, 18. lb, 18.Qa and 18.Qb

1 The air conditioner evaporator is combined with the heater assembly andismountedunderthe rightsideofthevehicledashboard(seeiiiustra- tions).

2 Before removing the evaporator, the system must be depressurized by an air conditioning technician. DO NOT attempt to do this yourself; the refrigerant used in the system can cause serious injuries and respiratory irritation.

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1 Liquid line connection

2 Suction line connection

3 Nut

4 Glove box

5 Defroster duct

6 Main harness connector

7 Duct joint

8 Drain line connection

9 Bolt

10 Evaporator

UPPER

110

MOUNTING

CC SWITCH

TEMPERATURE SENSOR

EVAPORATOR COIL

3 On later models, remove the glove box (see Chapter 11).

4 Loosen the hose clamps and remove the hoses from the evaporator fittings inside the engine compartment.

5 Disconnectthe the evaporator. control cable from the damper lever at the right side of

6 Slide back the hose clamp and remove the drain hose from the spigot at the rear of the evaporator.

7 Peel off the sealing compound around the evaporator tubes at the vehicle fire wall

8 Removethe boltsattachingtheevaporatortothedashboardandfire- inlet and outlet wall and carefully move it down and out from the dashboard. place the plastic duct that fits between the heater assembly

Do not mis- and the evaporator.

9 Use a flat-bladedscrewdriver housing and remove the evaporator to remove the clips from the evaporator

(see illustrations).

10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to position the plastic ducts before slipping the evaporator into place. When installing the hoses, lubricate their surfaces and the outside of the fittings with refrigerant oil.

The hoses must be positioned properly with the clamp finders and tightened securely. Do not forget to install the drain hose and the sealing CX.~JI- pound.

11 Have the system evacuated charged it. and recharged by the shop that dis-

LOWEk HOUSING

18.9c Evaporator assembly - exploded view

(pre-1988 models)

19 Heater/air conditioning control assembly - removal and installation

Refertoillustrations 19.3, 19.4, 79.6and 19.7

1 Pull off the radio knobs and remove the nuts from from the control shafts. Lift off the radio trim panel.

2 Pull off the heater fan control knob and the heatercontrol

Remove the nut from the fan control knob. lever ends.

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

18.9b Evaporator assembly-exploded

(1988 and later models)

I Upper evaporator case

2 Clip

3 ECCS

4 Evaporator assembly

5 Expansion valve

6 Lower eyaporator case view

3-15

19.3 To remove the cluster trim panel, remove these screws (arrows)

19.4 Removing the cluster trim panel -be sure to unplug the electrical connectors (arrows)

3 Pull out the ashtray, and remove the bracket attaching screws. Then remove the cluster trim panel attaching screws (see illustration).

4 Remove the screws from the clustertrim panel and lift it out of place by carefully prying out on the lower left corner (see illustration).

5 Disconnect the electrical connectors at the right of the cluster trim panel.

6 Disconnectthe control cable from the heater (not from the control assembly) (see illustration).

7 Removethefourscrewsattachingthecontrolassemblyandremoveit from the dashboard (see illustration).

8 Minor repairs, such as cleaning and lubrication of the pivots and cables, can be performed on the heatercontrol assembly. But it would be a good idea to replace it with a new one if it is not operating properly.

9 Installation is the reverse of the removal. Remember to plug in the electrical connectors before installing the instrument cluster trim panel. b

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

19.6 Heater control assembly details

13 Heater control assembly 16 Heater fan switch

14 Heater control panel lens 17 Control illumination harness

15 Heater control panel

19.7 To remove the heater control assembly from the dashboard, remove these four screws [arrows)

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Contents

Catalytic converter .....................................

Deceleration systems (carbureted models only) ..............

Evaporative emissions control system ......................

Evaporative emissions system check .............

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system ...................

See Chapter 1

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system check .... See Chapter 1

Feedback carburetor (FBC) system ........................ 13

General information ....................................

Heated air intake system (carbureted models only) ............

High altitude compensation system (carbureted models only) ... 10

Information sensors (fuel-injected models only) ..............

Jet air system (carbureted models only) ....................

Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system .........................

Oxygen sensor replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

PCV system check . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . _ _ . . . . _ . . . . . _ _ See Chapter 1

Secondary Air Supply (SAS) system (carbureted modelsonly) .._.........._....._...._............... 6

Secondary Air System (SAS) filter replacement

(2.6L engine) . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . _ . . . . _ _ . . . . _ . . See Chapter 1

Self-diagnosis and malfunction codes (fuel-injected modelsonly) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -15

Thermostatic air cleaner check (carbureted models only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . _ . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Throttle opener (carbureted models only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Vacuum delay valve (carbureted models only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Specifications

Dashpot adjustment

Engine set speed

2.OLengine

2.6Lengine

Dashpotdroptime

.......................................

........................................

.....................................

Throttle position sensor

Output voltage

2.4Lengine ........................................

3.OLengine ........................................

Resistance (at closed throttle) ............................

EGR control solenoid valve resistance ..........

Engine coolant temperature sensor resistance

32-degrees F. .........................................

68-degrees F. .........................................

10Cdegrees F. ........................................

176-degrees F. ........................................

Motor position sensor resistance

(2.4L models) ....

Oxygen sensor output voltage

19902.4Lmodels .....................................

1991 and later 2.4L and all 3.OL models ....................

Purge control solenoid valve resistance ..

......

Torque specifications

EGRvalvebolts .......................................

EGR temperature sensor ................................

Engine coolant temperature sensor ........ _ ...............

2200 f 100 rpm

1700k 100 rpm

Three to six seconds

0.48 to 0.52 volts

0.4 to 1 .o volts

3.5 to 6.5 k-ohms

36 to 44 ohms

5.9 k-ohms

2’.5 k-ohms

1.1 k-ohms

0.3 k-ohms

4 to 6 k-ohms

1 volt

0.6 to 1 volt

36 to 44 ohms @ 68-degrees F

Ft-lbs

12to18

7.3 to 8.6

15to19

6-2

U-engine

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

1.3a Vacuum schematic i

Bixk Green

(1985 and 1986 2.OL engine shown, 2.6L engine similar) secondary air control valve

,a’ b

,’

Vacuum valve JJacuum switch

:-, .‘i-?

1.3b Vacuum

Hiah-altttude compensator-

FeballCalifornla and

High-altitude vehicles for

Federal schematic

/”

Secondary air control solenoid valve

(1987 through 1989, all engines)

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

FRONT

1.3~ Vacuum schematic (1990 and later 2.4L engines)

1 General information

Refer to illustrations 1.3a, 1.36, 1.312, 1.3d and 1.3e

To prevent pollution of the atmosphere from incompletely burned and evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveability a number of emission control systems are incorporated. and fuel economy,

The principal systems are:

Air aspirator system

Catalytic converter

Deceleration system

Evaporative emission control system

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

Feedback carburetor (FBC) system

Heated air intake system

Jet air system

Multi-Port injection (MPI) system

Oxygen sensor

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

Secondary Air Supply (SAS) system

The Sections in this Chapter include general descriptions, procedures within the scope of the home mechanic checking and component replacement above. procedures (when possible) for each of the systems listed

Before assuming an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of some emis-

Fuel pressure regulator

6-3

sion control devices requires specialized tools, equipment and training. if checking and servicing become too difficult or if a procedure is beyond yourability, consuitadealerservicedepartment. Remember, themostfre- quent cause of emissions problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wire, so always check the hose and wiring connections first (see illustrations).

This doesn’t mean, however, that emission control systems are particularly difficult to maintain and repair. You can quickly and easily perform many checks and do most of the regular maintenance mon tune-up and hand tools. Note: at home with com-

Because ofa Federailymandatedex- tended warranty which covers the emission controlsystem components, check with your dealer about warranty coverage before working on any emissions-relatedsystems. Once the warranty has expired, you may wish to perform some of the component checks and/or replacement procedures in this Chapter to save money

Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this Chapter. it should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems may not exactly match the system installed on your vehicle because of $hanges made by the manufacturer during production or from year-to-year.

A Vehicle Emissions Control information label is located in the engine compartment (usually on the underside of the hood). This label contains important emissions specifications and adjustment information. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label in your particular vehicle should always be checked for up-to-date information.

Fuel ~ressura

FRONT

1.3d Vacuum schematic

B : Black

G : Green

L : Light Blue

R : Red

Y : Yellow purge control solenoid valve

(1990 and later Federal and Canadian

3.OL engines)

- -~

EGR valve

Canjster

Throttle body

B : Black

G : Green

L : Light Blue

R : Red

Y : Yeilow

1.3e Vacuum schematic

FRONT

(1990 and later California 3.OL engines) solenoid valve

EGR dontroi solenoid valve

6-4 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Blow-by gas -

Fresh air -

Rocker cover

Air clea(ler

Carburetor

Blow-by gas -

Fresh air ----

P C V valve .

47r cleaner

Carburetor

/ Breather

011 separ2tor

Ventllat7on hose

Intake manifold

Ventilation hose manifold

2.4L Engine

2,la

_~ i

Applicable to U-engmes

Typical Positive Crankcase

Ventilation

;Ippllcable to W-engines

(PCV) system @.iJL engine on feft, 2.6L engine on right)

&r)L Engine irnrake dir plenum

Air cleaner A7r intake hose i hrotile body ii~r lrliake plenum venuiat7on hose

7

_ Ventilation hose

,Breather hose

f

.e manrfold

‘:

2.lb Typical Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system (24 engme on left, 3.OL engme on right)

2 Positive Crankcase Veniilation (PCV) system

Refer to i//ustrafions 2. la and 2. fb

1 A closed-type crankcase vennlatlon system IS uttllzed to prevent blow-by gas6 from escaping into the atrhosphere. This sysrem has a small orifice fixed at the intake mantiold or at the valve cover (see illustrations).

2 The blow-by gas is led through a rubber hose Tram the Wont ot the valve cover into the a7r cleaner and through anotner hose tram the rear or the cover into the intake manirnld through tne onitce. H7 narrow ihrottle openings. the blow-by gas IS drawn from the rear ot ihe cover ~770 the In- take manifold with fresh air entennq rrom the air cleaner through the tront of the valve cover. Ai wide open throttle. the blow-by gas IS drawn through both passages.

3 Very little maintenance IS requlreu for the crankcase

SjGtem. Check the hoses for emission conitoi cracks and kinks. Heplace them with new ones if they are deteriorated. poor crankcase vent7latlon

Make

*wdl resul?. sure mat tne oniice 7sn 7 clogged or i Evapnratwe emlssfons control system

Hefer to dtustrabons d.za. 32, &% and 3.&i

1 io prevenr ~uei vapors 7rom escaping Into the atmosphere from the tuel tank Idue to normal vaponzationj eqirtpped wim an evaporative emissions the vehicles control in this manual system. are

: .Tne e’f;lpOra7IVtjet77lssionsconrrol system cpnsists of one or twova- pomriqurd separators jnoi used 011 all models), an overfill limiter (two-way valve). a tuel check valve. a purge control valve (carbureted models) or purge comroi soienolu valve (fuel-InJected models), a charcoal-fiiled ister ana lmes and hoses connecting the components (see illustrations). can-

A caroon element, designed to store fuel vapors generated in the carbure- torwhllettieengtne ISO~. ~s~nstalled~ntheaircleaneronsome models. No routine ~~~~enanceis r~qu114, but If theelement or dirty, i’splace 7t wtth a new one.

3 The marcoal-tllled appears to be clogged camster IS Installed between the fuel tank andthe air cieanrl Gasoline vapors are routed to ihis canister for temporary storage. While the engine IS runnrng, outside air is drawn through the canister,

ChaDter 6 Emissions control svstems

Air cleaner

Carbon element

/ Purge control valve Fuel check valve

6-5

-Fuel vapor

-- - Purge air

Charcoal I

II #

I/L

3.2a Evaporative emissions control system (1983 through 1989 US mqdels)

Air cleaner

Caguretor rrrm?,t,

Vapor- liquid separator

Carburetor float chamber

Fuel filler cap

(Vacuum relic,‘)

\ \ #li

I 1

Fuel pump’

Fuel strainer /

3.2b Evaporative emissions control system (1983 through 1986 Canadian models) purging thevapors from the charcoal. This air/vapor mixture isthen routed to the engine combustion chambers (through the air cleaner) and burned.

4 The purge control valve is kept closed at idle speeds to prevent vapor- ized fuel from entering the air cleaner and causing high-idle carbon monoxide emissions.

5 The carburetor itself is vented internally or through the charcoal canister, depending on the temperature, line vapors into the atmosphere which prevents from the carburetor. the escape of gaso-

6 When the engine is not running, gasoline vapors produced in the fuel tank (by an increase in atmospheric temperatures) are routed to the separator tank in which liquid gasoline formed by condensation of the vapors is separated. The remaining fuel vapor is led into a two-way valve. The two- way pressure valve is designed to open at a predetermined mitting the fuel vapors into the charcoal-filled canister, pressure, the vapors ad- are trapped by the charcoal, preventing the discharge of raw hydrocarbons into the atmosphere.

6

Air cleaner

Fuel iniector 1 1 (To-iniector) 11

,II

C--

Fuel vapor

Purge air

L’ -- ‘1

- FUG pump

Fuel filter

Fuel tank

3.2~ Evaporative emissions control system (1990 and later 2.4L model shown, 3.OL similar)

3.17 To check the operation of the purge control valve, disconnect the hose from the air cleaner housing and blow into it

7 While the engine is running, avacuum is built above the canister (on the carburetor side) causing outside air to be drawn into the canister through the inlet holes in the case, then passing through the filter and the charcoal. As the outside air flows through, the vapors trapped by the char- charcoal are carried away, passing through the passage at the center of the canister into the air cleaner, the carburetor and ultimately the engine cylinders where they are burned.

8 During engine operation, vapors originating in the fuel tank are also routed directly into the canister (through the passage in the center of the canister) and fed into the engine for combustion.

9 As the fuel is used, a vacuum is produced inside the fuel tank. The two-way vacuum valve opens momentarily, drawing outside air through the air inlet hose of the canister into the fuel tank, thus maintaining normal pressure in the tank.

10 Duringfillingof thefuel tank, theairin thetankflowsthrough the leveling pipe and out into the atmosphere, venting the tank. When the fuel entering the tank has sealed off the leveling pipe opening in the tank, further filling cannot be done because of the air pressure inside the tank. If filling is confinued, overflow of fuel will result.

-- ._ ._

Charcoal canister

11 Because of the fact that the canister inlet air hose and filter can be-

3.27 Install the two-way valve at a seven-degree angle (in relation to the tank) come clogged over a long period of time, it is recommended that the canister be replaced according to the mileage intervals listed in Chapter 1

12 Also, carefully inspect the rubber hoses attached to the canister. If they are cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace them with new ones when the canister is replaced.

13 Refer to Chapter 1 for canister removal and installation procedures.

Purge control valve

Refer to illustration 3.77

14 The purge control valve is connected by hoses to the top of the ECS canister, the air cleaner and the carburetor.

15 It is a simple spring-loaded close valve, and its operation is controlled- by negative pressure, generated at a port provided slightly above the carburetor throttle valve, which acts on a diaphragm in the valve. When the engine is idling, the valve and evaporated gas passage are closed. When the engine is running at 1500 rpm or more the valve is opened and the fuel vapors stored in the canister are drawn into the carburetor.

16 When inspecting the valve, the engine must be at normal operating temperature.

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

17 Disconnectthepurge hosefromtheaircleaner(seeillustration)and blow into it. If the valve is not open, it is in good condition. Next, start the engine and increase the engine speed to 1500 or 2000 rpm and blow into the purge hose again. If the valve is open, it is operating properly.

18 Ifthevalvedoesnotcheckoutasdescribed,replaceitwithanewone.

Fuel check valve

19 The fuel check valve, located just to the left of the fuel tank, is de- signedtoprevent

The checkvalve fuelleaksshouldthevehiclerolloverdun’nganaccident. contains two balls. Under normal conditions the gasoline vapor passage in the valve is open, but if a roll-over occurs, either of the two balls will close the fuel passage and prevent fuel leaks.

20 Remove the hose clamps and disconnect valve. the hoses from the check

21 Remove the bolt attaching the fuel check valve to the rear body mounting bracket.

22 Check the hoses for cracks and replace them if they are deteriorated.

23 Installation of the valve is the reverse of removal.

Two-way valve

Refer to illustration 3.27

24 The two-way valve, located just to the left of the fuel tank, is composed of a pressure valve and a vacuum valve. The pressure valve is designed to open when the fuel tank internal pressure has increased over the normal pressure, which allows the fuel vapors to enter the charcoal canis- terforstorage, and the vacuum valve opens when avacuum has been produced in the tank.

25 Removal of the valve is quite simple. Loosen the hose clampsand pull off the two hoses, then remove the valve mounting bolt.

26 Blow lightly into the valve inlet. If there is an initial resistance followed by passage of air, the valve is in good condition. Repeatthecheck ing into the outlet. by blow-

6-7

27 Installation is the reverse of removal. The valve must tilt approximately 7-degrees (see illustration) in relation to the fuel tank when it is installed.

Vapor/liquid separator tank(s)

28 The function of the separator tank is to temporarily accommodate an increased volume of gasoline caused by expansion at high outside air temperatures. They also prevent liquid fuel from entering the vapor line during hard cornering.

29 Mark each fuel/vapor hose and its corresponding bered pieces of tape. fitting with num-

30 Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the fuel tank.

31 The separator tanks are attached to the top of the fuel tank. They can be removed very easily once the fuel tank has been separated from the vehicle.

32 Replace any crackld or deteriorated fuel/vapor hoses.

33 Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Chapter4 contains detailed fuel tank installation procedures.

Purge control system (fuel-injected models only)

Refer to illustrations 3.34 and 3.35

34 Detach the vacuum hose with the red stripes from the throttle body and attach it to a hand vacuum pump (see illustration). Plug the vacuum pipe from which the hose was detached.

35 Follow the sequence of tests in the accompanying tion). chart(seeillustra-

36 If the system doesn’t perform as described, proceed to the following tests.

Purge port vacuum (fuel-injected models only)

Refer to illustrations 3.38

37 Start the engine and warm it up.

3.34 Detach the vacuum hose with the red stripes from the throttle body and attach it to a hand vacuum pump

(plug the vacuum pipe from which the hose was detached) (fuel-injected models only)

When engine is cold

1 Engine operating condition

Applying vacuum

Idling 400 mmHg

(15.7 in.Hg.)

3,000 rpm

When engine is warm

Engine operating condition

Idling

Applying vacuum

400 mmHg

(15.7 in.Hg.)

Try applying vacuum

Within 3 minutes after engine start

3,000 rpm

After 3 minutes have passed after engine start 3,000 wm

400 mmHg

(15.7 in.Hg.)

Result

Vacuum maintained is

Result

Vacuum maintained

Vacuum is leaks

Vacuum maintained will be momentarily, after which it will leak.

NOTE:

The vacuum leak continuously will the altitude is

2,200 m (7,200 ft.) or higher, or the intake air temperature is 50°C

(122°F) or higher. if

3.35 Follow the sequence of tests in this chart to diagnose the purge control system (fuel-injected models only)

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

3.OL Engine, I .I

3.41 Detach the vacuum hose with the red stripe from the solenoid valve and attach a hand-held vacuum pump in its place

(fuel-injected models)

42 Unplug the electrical connector from the solenoid valve.

43 Apply battery voltage (or any 12V DC source) to the purge control so- lenoidvalve. apply a vacuum and verify that the valve leaks vacuum when voltage is applied; when voltage is discontinued, the valve should maintain vacuum.

44 Measure the resistance between the terminals of the solenoid valve and compare your reading to the range of acceptable resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

45 If the purge control solenoid valve fails either of these tests, replace it.

3.38 Detach the vacuum hose from the throttle body purge hose nipple and connect a hand-held

(fuel-injected vacuum models) pump in its place

38 Detach the vacuum hose from the throttle body purge hose nipple and connect a hand vacuum pump in its place (see illustration).

39 Start the engine and verify that, after the engine rpm is raised by racing the engine, vacuum remains fairly constant.

40 If there’s no vacuum created, the throttle body port may be clogged and require cleaning.

Purge control solenoid valve (fuel-injected models)

Refer to illustration 3.4 1

41 Detach the vacuum hose with the red stripe from the solenoid valve and attach a hand-held vacuum pump in its place (see illustration).

4 Jet air system (carbureted models only)

Refer to illustration 4.1

1 The jet air system (see illustration) utilizes an additional inlet valve

(jet valve) whrch provides for air, or a super lean mixture, to be drawn from the air intake into the cylinder. The jet valve is operated by the same cam as the inlet valve. They use a common rocker arm so the jet valve and the inlet valve open and close srmultaneously.

2 On the intake stroke of the engine, fuel/air mixture ffows through the intake ports into the combustion chamber. At the same time, jet air is forced into the combustion chamber because of the pressure difference between the jet intake in the throttle bore and the jet valve in the cylinder as

Carburetor

Primary throttle valve

\ \

Jet air intake opening

4.1 Jet air system

A piece

Reed,valve

Chapter 6 Emissions control svstems

Ai! cleaner

6-9

Air pipe

Catalytic converter

6.1 Secondary Air Supply (SAS) system (typical)

Air hose

To air cleaner

6.4 ’ To check the operation of the SAS reed valve, place your finger over the valve inlet with the engine running

4 Under normal operating conditions, the catalytic converterwill not require maintenance. However, it is important to keep the engine properly tuned. If the engine is not properly tuned, engine misfiring maycauseover- heating of the catalyst, which may damage the converter or other vehicle components. Heat damage can also occur during diagnostic testing if spark plug wires are removed and the engine is allowed to idle for a pro- longed period of time.

5 Caution: Vehicle operation, including idling, should be avoidedifen- gine misfiring occurs. Under these conditions the exhaust system will operate at an abnormally high temperature catalystorotherunderbodypark of the ignition or fuelsystems, and may cause of the vehicle. Alteration or any type of operating damage to the or deterioration condition Which results in engine misfiring, must be corrected to avoid overheating lytic converter. the cata-

6.5 Checking the air control valve diaphragm on 1965 and later

SAS systems the piston moves aown. At small throttle openings, there is a large pressure difference, giving the jet air a high velocity. This scavenges the residual gases around the spark plug and creates good ignition conditions. It also produces a strong swirl in the combustion chamber, which lasts throughout the compression stroke and improves flame propagation after ignition, assuring high combustion efficiency and lowering exhaust emissions. As the throttle opening is increased, less jet air is forced in and jet swirl diminishes but the increased flow through the intake valve ensures satisfactory combustion.

3 incorrect valve clearances affect emission levels and can cause engine troubles. Refer to the valve clearance adjustment Section in Chap- ter 1 for the jet valve adjustment procedure.

4 Jetvalve removal, inspection and installation procedures are covered in detail in Chapter 2, Part D.

5 Catalytic converter

1 Thecatalyticconverterprovides for the oxidizing of hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide in the exhaust system, which reduces the levels of these pollutants in the exhaust.

2 Its ceramic monolithic element, coated with a catalytic agent, is pressed into the exhaust manifold on early models. On later models it is a replaceable component located under the vehicle in the exhaust system.

3 The catalytic converter requires the use of the unleaded fuel only,

Leaded gasoline will destroy the effectiveness of the catalyst as an emission control device.

6 Secondary Air Supply (SAS) system (carbureted models only)

Description

Refer to illustration 6.1

1 The SAS system (see illustration) consists of reed valves and air pipes that supply secondary air into the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe (at a point beyond the catalytic converter) for the purpose of promot- ing oxidation (or complete burning) of any remaining unburned fuel. The system used on 1985 and later models is somewhat more complex; it utilizes a secondary air control valve and a computer-controlled solenoid valve to control the flow of air through the reed valve and into the exhaust manifold.

2 The SAS is actuated by exhaust vacuum generated from pulsations in the exhaust manifold. Air is drawn through the air cleaner and directed into the manifold by the valve motion corresponding to the exhaust pulses.

Check

Refer to illustrations 6.4,and 6.5

3 Checkthe air hose and air pipe for damage and cracks. Check the air pipe connections for leakage.

4 Start and run the engine at idle. Disconnect the rubber air hose from the reed valve and place your hand over the intake port of the valve (see illustration). if suction is felt, the reed valve is operating properly. If no suction is felt, or if pressure is felt, replace the reed valve with a new one.

5 To check the air control valve diaphragm on 1985 and later models, hook up a hand-operated vacuum pump to the valve fitting with a short section of hose and apply avacuum of approximately 20 in-Hg (see iiius- tration). The pump gauge needle should remain stable.

6-10 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Sub EGR confrof valve

Throttle valve

7.3b EGR system (California models)

Therms valve

7.3a EGR system (49-state models) valve to EGR control valve coolant temperature detection

7.3~ Therm0 valve (49-state models)

6 Now start the engine and allow it to idle, then apply a vacuum of 4.3 in-Hg or more to the air control valve with the pump. Disconnect the hose from the air cleaner and place your hand over the open end of the hose.

You should feel suction.

Replacement

7 Removal of the reed valve is very simple. Pull the rubber hose off the inlet and unscrew the valve from the air pipe. Be sure to use a backup wrench on the pipe so it doesn’t become twisted when the valve is unscrewed.

8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

-~-.-.

7.4a Dual EGR control valve (California models)

-“” ~_

4 The California system has a dual EGR control valve (primary and secondary), which is controlled by different carburetorvacuums to throttle valve openings in respon,se

(see illustration). The primary EGR valve controls EGR flow during relatively narrow throttle valve openings, while the secondary EGR valve takes over as the throttle valve is opened wider.

EGR flow is suspended completely tions. The thermal valve at idle and wide open throttle condi-

(see illustration), which senses coolant temperature, controls the vacuum applied to the EGR control valve. to purge control valve to secondarv EGR

7 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

Description (carbureted models)

US models

Refer to illustrations 7.3a, 7.3b, 7.3c, 7.4a, 7.4b, 7.5 and 7.6

1 Thevehiclescovered inthismanualutilizean ExhaustGas tion (EGR) system to reduce oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust.

Recircula-

2 The stringent oxides of nitrogen emission standards rates of EGR flow, which adversely affects driveability require high of the vehicle. To solve this problem, it is necessary to increase EGR flow during high load vehicle operation and decrease EGR flow to improve driveability during low load operation.

3 To accomplish this, two different systems are in use; one for vehicles sold in California and one for vehicles sold in the remaining 49 states (see illustrations). Both systems utilize an EGR control valve, a sub-EGR control valve and a thermal valve (see illustration). closed at above 55’ C (131” F) b closed at above 35” C (95” F)

/ -_---

_---_-.I lJ.-.--LT.-

’ Therm0 sensor for coolant temperature defectron

7.4b Therm0 valve (California models)

Chapter 6 Emissions

Secondary Connected jvalve .carburetor

control systems

Valve guide therm0 valve kiii!!?eA

Primary va’..- ruw r aExhaust gas outlet

- m Exhaust gas inlet

7.5 EGR control valve (49-state models)

1 Carburetor vaccum

7.6 Sub-EGR control valve

Filter control valve

6-11

Therm0 valve

__.-- ..- - ~-

7.8 EGR system (Canadian models)

7.11 Therm0 valve (Canadian models)

5 The49state EGR system utilizes aconventional-type EGRvalve that is controlled by carburetor vacuum in response to various throttle valve openings (see illustration). Again, EGR flow is suspended at idle and wide open throttle conditions. The thermal valve controls the vacuum applied to the EGR valve.

6 In both systems, the sub-EGR control valve (see illustration) is opened and closed by a linkage connected to the throttle valve. This en- ables the sub-EGR valve to closely modulate the EGR flow according to the size of the throttle valve opening.

Canadian models

Refer to illustrations 7.8 and 7.11

7 All engines built for use in Canada utilize an exhaust gas recirculation system to reduce oxides of nitrogen in the vehicle exhaust.

8 With this system (see illustrMion), the exhaust gas is partially recirculated from an exhaust port in the cylinder head, through the EGR control valve, to a port located in the intake manifold below the carburetor.

9 EGR flow is controlled by the EGR control valve and is varied accord- ingtoengine load.Theflowisincreasedduring high loadvehicleoperation and decreased to preserve driveability of the vehicle during low load operation.

10 With this arrangement, the EGR control valve is activated bycarbure- tor vacuum, drawn from slightly above the throttle valve, so the EGR flow is modulated to attain effective oxides of nitrogen reduction and is suspended at idle and wide-open throttle conditions.

11 The vacuum to be applied on the EGR contrdl valve is controlled by a thermal valve (see illustration), which senses the coolant temperature andcutsoffthevacuumwhentheengineiscoldandavacuumvalvewhich respond to vehicle load by detecting engine manifold vacuum which responds to vehicle load by detecting engine manifold vacuum.

Fuel-injected mod&s

Refer to illustrations 7.12a and 7.12b

12 The EGR system on fuel-injected models is essentially the same as the one on carbureted models. However, the EGR valve is computer-controlled via the EGR control solenoid valve (see illustrations).

Check

Carbureted models

US models

Refer to illustrations 7.18, 7.19 and 7.20

13 Check all vacuum hoses for cracks and correct installation.

14 Start the engine (it must be completely cool) and run it at idle speed.

15 Touch the underside of the secondary EGR valve diaphragm and increase the engine speed from idle to approximately 2500 rpm. No movement of the secondary EGR diaphragm should be felt. If it does move, which means the secondary EGR valve is opening, replace the therm0 valvewith a new one. Warning: The valve maybe very hot- wearaglove or use a rag to prevent your hand from burns.

16 Allow the engine to warm up until the coolant temperature exceeds

131 -degrees F.

17 Agam, touch the underside of the secondaj EGR valve diaphragm and increase the engine speed from idle to approximately 2500 rpm. This time, the secondary EGR diaphragm should move. If it does not move, which means the secondary EGR valve is not opening, inspect the EGR control valve and the therm0 valve.

6-12 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

7.12a EGR system component locations (2.4L engine)

3.OL Engine

7.12b EGR system component locations (XOL engine)

18 To check the therm0 valve, disconnect the green-stnped hose from the valve (see illustration).

19 Connect the hand-held vacuum pump to the therm0 valve and apply vacuum (see illustration). good.

If no vacuum can be held, the therm0

20 To check the EGR control valve, disconnect the green-stnped valve hose

IS from the nipple on the carburetor and connect it to the hand-held vacuum pump (see illustration).

21 Open the sub-EGR valve (by pulling on it by hand) and apply avacu- urn to the EGR control valve with the pump.

22 If the idle speed becomes unstable, the EGR valve is operating properly. If the idle speeds remain the same, the valve

IS not operating properly and it should be replaced with a new one.

23 Pull on the sub-H.% valve and check tor smooth operation. It the valve bmds. it should be removed from its bore, cleaned thoroughly, tub?- cated with a small amount of light 011 and remstalled. If itstlll does not operate smoothly, replace it with a new one.

Canadian models

24 Check all vacuum hoses for cracks and proper mstallatlon.

25 Start the engine (it must be completely cool) and run it at idle speed.

Touch the underside of the !A% control valve diaphragm and increase the engine speed from idle to 2500 rpm. Warning: The valve maybe very hot

- wearagloveorusearag topreventyourhand from burns. Nomovement of the diaphragm should be felt. II movement is felt, which means that the fGR valve is opening:check rrisn’rclogged. If the hose IS thegreen-stripedvacuum clear, the thermal hose to make surj valve is most likelydefectiie mr

5 yIL=

Etis-

E. m -~ w

- zz e: m we

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems 6-13

7.18 Disconnect the green-striped

Green strr pe hose connected to therm0 valve hose from the therm0 valve

7.19 Apply a vacuum to the therm0 valve

7.20 To check for proper operation hook up a hand-operated vacuum of the EGR control pump/gauge valve, to the carburetor side of the valve

7.31 Disconnect the vacuum pump from the three-way terminal, remove the terminal and connect the vacuum pump directly to the

EGR valve and should be replaced with a new one.

26 If no movement was felt, allow the engine to warm up until the coolant

7.28 Disconnect

EGR valve the vacuum hose with the green stripe from the and connect a hand-operated into the line with a three-way vacuum terminal pump/gauge temperature exceeds 104degrees F.

27 Repeat the test outlined in Step 2. This time movement of the diaphragm should occur. If no movement is felt, the EGR control valve, the thermal valve and the vacuum hoses should be checked for leaks and other defects. i =~.

Fuel-injected models

EGR system inspection

Refer to illustrations 7.28 and 7.31

28 Disconnect the vacuum hose with the green. stripe from the EGR valve and connect a hand-operated vacuum pump/gauge into the line with a three-way terminal (see illustration).

29 Start the engine. While its still cold, press down on the accelerator pedal abruptly and race the engine- there should be no vacuum indicated

(atmospheric pressure).

30 After the engine is warmed up, press down suddenly on the accelerator again -the indicated vacuum should rise momentarily to about 5.9- in-Hg.

31 Disconnect the vacuum pump from the three-way terminal, remove the terminal and connect the vacuum pump directly to the EGR valve (see

6-14 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

7.38 Apply less than 1.2 in-Hg and try to blow through the valve

-you shouldn’t be able to; now apply 9.5 or more in-Hg and try to blow through the valve again -this time you should be able to

7.33 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body EGR vacuum nipple and hook up a hand-held vacuum pump in its place

7.41 Measure the resistance of the temperature sensor at the temperafures specified in the text illustration). With the engine at idle, apply avacuum of 9.4 in-Hg and note whether the engine stalls or idles roughly (it should).

32 If there’s a problem, proceed to the next Step.

EGR valve control vacuum

Refer to illustration 7.33

33 The engine should be warmed up for this test. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body EGR vacuum nipple (see illustration) and hook up a hand vacuum pump in its place.

34 Start the engine, race the engine and verify that vacuum risesin proportion to the rise in engine speed.

35 If it doesn’t, the port in the throttle body may be clogged and require cleaning.

EGR valve

Refer to illustration 7.38

36 Remove the EGR valve and, through the open portion underneath, check the diaphragm for sticking. Look for carbon deposits inside the valve. If the valve is dirty, or the diaphragm is stuck, clean the valve with solvent and check it again. If it’s still sticking, or clogged, replace it.

7.44 Disconnect the vacuum hose with the yellow and green stripes from the solenoid valve and connect a hand-operated vacuum pump in its place

37 Hook up a hand-operated vacuum pump to the EGR valve, apply a vacuum of 10 in-Hg and note whether the diaphragm leaks (the valve should hold the vacuum).

38 Release the vacuum applied in the previous Step. Apply less than 1.2 in-Hg and try to blow through the valve-you shouldn’t be able to; now apply 9.5 or more in-Hg and try to blow through the valve again-this should be able to (see illustration). time you

39 Install the EGR vaTve. Use a new gasket and tighten the EGR valve mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

EGR temperature sensor

Refer to illustration 7.4 1

40 Remove the EGR temperature

Use a thermometer to monitor sensor and place it in a pot of water: the water temperature.

41 As you bring the water to a boil, measure the resistance between terr minals 1 and 2 (see illustration). Up to about 122-degrees F, the resistance between the terminals should be between 60 and 83 k-ohms; by the time the water is boiling (212-degrees F), the resistance should be between 11 and 14 k-ohms.

42 If the temperature sensor doesn’t perform as described, replace it.

43 When you install the temperature sensor, coat the threads with sea= lant or Teflon tape and tighten the sensor to the torque listed in this Chap: ter’s Specifications.

EGR control solenoid valve

Refer to illustration 7.44

44 Disconnect the vacuum hose with the yellow and green stripes from the solenoid valve and connect a hand-operated

(see illustration). vacuum pump in its place

45 Unplug the wiring harness electrical connector.

46 Apply battery voltage andvacuum to the EGR control solenoid simuk taneously. With vacuum andvoltage applied, the solenoid should maintain vacuum. When voltage is interrupted, the solenoid should leak vacuum.

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Air control v&e

Blmetal

Temperature sensor

--Au cleaner

- Intake manifold vacuum

7.60 The sub-EGR adjusting be changed screw setting shouldn’t 8.1 Typical heated air intake system

47 Measure the resistance between the terminals of the solenoid valve and compare your reading to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions.

48 If the solenoid valve doesn’t perform as described, replace it.

Component replacement

EGR control valve

49 The EGR valve is attached to the lower part of the intake manifold, directly under the carburetor.

50 Mark the vacuum hose and fittings with pieces of numbered tape, then disconnect the vacuum hoses from the EGR valve.

51 Remove the bolts attaching the EGR valve to the intake manifold and the valve can be lifted away. You may have to tap gently on the EGR body with a soft-faced hammer to break the gasket seal.

52 When installing the EGR valve, use a new gasket and tighten the mounting bolts evenly and securely. Also, be swre to install the vacuum hoses properly.

Sub-EGR valve

Refer to ihsfrafion 7.60

53 The sub-EGR valve is located on the base of the carburetor connected by a linkage to the throttle valve. and is

54 Carefully pry off the spring clip and remove the pin attaching the sub-

EGR valve plunger to the linkage.

55 Hold the end of the linkage up and remove the spring and the steel ball from the end of the plunger. These parts are small and easily lost, so don’t drop them. ’

56 Slip off the rubber boot and slide the plunger out of the carburetor throttle body.

57 Before installing the plunger, clean it with solvent to remove any deposits.

58 Lubricate the plungerwith a small amount of light oil,slide it into place in the carburetor throttle body and install the rubber boot.

59 Install the steel ball and spring, hold the linkage in place and insert the pin. Carefully slide the spring clip in place, then check for smooth operation of the valve plunger.

60 The sub-EGR adjusting screw (see illustration) has been preset at the factory and should not be disturbed.

Thermal valve

61 The thermal valve is located just in front of the’carburetor and is threaded into the coolant passage in the intake manifold.

62 Removal of the thermal valve is quite simple. Pull off the vacuum hoses that are connected to the thermal valve fittings, then unscrew the valve from the manifold.

63 When installing on the threads. the thermal valve, be sure to use thread-sealing tape

8 Heated air intake system (carbureted models only)

Description

Refer to illustration 8.1

1 Carbureted models are equipped with a temperature-regulated air cleaner (see illustration) to reducecarbon monoxideand so that the carburetor can be calibrated leaner hydrocarbon emissions. Improvedengine warm-up characteristics and minimized carburetor icing can also be attained with this system.

2 The air cleaner is equipped with an air control valve inside the snorkel to modulate the temperature of carburetor intake air which flows through the intake. The air control valve is controlled by a vacuum motor/temperature sensor combination system which responds to the intake manifold vacuum and temperature inside the air cleaner.

3 When the bi-metal senses a temperature inside the air cleaner below about 84-degrees F, the air bleed valve of the temperature sensor assembly remains closed, causing intake manifold vacuum to be applied to the

#diaphragm of the vacuum motor. This in turn opens the air control valve and allows the preheated intake air to flow through the heat cowl and air duct into the air cleaner.

4 When the bi-metal senses that the temperature is above about 113-degrees inside the air cleaner

F, the air bleed valve is fully open. As a result, the intake air to the carburetor comes directly through the fresh air duct, since the air control valve is positioned at ‘B’, as shown in illustration 8.1, regardless of the intake manifold vacuum.

5 At intermediate temperatures, the air entering the carburetor is a blend of fresh and preheated air as regulated by the thermostatically-actuated air control valve.

Check

Refer to ihsfrafions 8.70 and 8.11

6 Make sure all vacuum hoses and the heat cowl-to-air cleaner air duct are properly attached and in good condition.

7 With the engine completely than 84-degrees F, remove cold and the outside the rubber air temperature less tube from the end of the air cleaner snorkel. Start the engine and look into the snorkel (be careful when work- ingaroundmoving engineparts).TheaircontrolvalveshouId bein the’llp’

(Heat on) position.

8 With the engine perature is 113-degrees running

“down” (heat off) position. at normal operating temperatureoftheairenteringtheendoftheaircleanersnorkel. temperatures, check the

Ifthetem-

For higher, the air control valve should be in the

9 To check the operation of the sensor and vacuum motor, you will need a hand-held vacuum pump.

6-16 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

8.10 To check the temperature sensor for the heated air intake system, apply vacuum to the sensor-the air control valve should be in the “up” (heat on) position

8.11 To check the vacuum motor for the heated air intake system, apply a vacuum to the motor inlet fitting -the air control valve should be in the “up“ (heat on) position

Coasting air valve

9.1 Deceleration system components 9.2 Coasting air valve (CAV) operatlon

10 Remove the air cleaner from the engine (see Chapter 4) and allow it to cool to below 84-degrees F. Hook the vacuum pump to the sensor hose and apply a vacuum to the sensor (see illustration). The air control valve should be in the “up” (heat on) position. If it is not, check the vacuum motor for proper operation.

11 To check the vacuum motor, apply a vacuum directly to the motor inlet fitting (see illustration). The air control valve should be in the “up” (heat on) position. If it is not, check to be sure it is not sticking. If the valve moves freely but wiIl not operate properly when a vacuum is applied, the air cleaner housing will have to be replaced.

12 If the vacuum motor operates properly but the valve does not operate when vacuum is applied to the sensor, the sensor should be removed and replaced with a new one.

To float chamber-:.

9 Deceleration systems (carbureted models only)

Description

Refer to illustrations 9.7, 9.2 and 9.3

1 The deceleration system (see illustration) decreases hydrocarbon emission during vehicle deceleration. It includes the Coasting Air Valve

(CAV), the Air Switching Valve (AS/) and the fuel cut-off solenoid, which are built into the carburetor.

9.3 Air switching valve (ASV) operation

2 The CAV (see illustration), which is activated by carburetor ported vacuum, supplies additional air into the intake manifold, leaning the fuel/ air mixture.

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems 6-17

Throttle opener

, syftijli;crew for ii

Orifice

Throttle o/pener for air conditioning unit

9.7 Dashpot adjustment automatic

(early Canadian models with transmission)

.__’

Lever trxed to primary throttle shaft

Primary throttle valve

9.8a Dashpot adjustment screw location (1983 and 1984, USA model shown)

Aneroid bellows

AdditroMl bleed arr passage

Primary throttle valve

10.1 High altitude compensation system component layout

9.8b Dashpot adjustment screw location (1985 through 1989,

Canadian model shown)

3 The ASV (see illustration), portedvacuum, improves which fuel economy is also activated by supplying additional by carburetor air into the idle circuit slow passage.

4 In order to maintain smooth vehicle deceleration, ing, operation of the CAV and ASV is suspended and to prevent stall- by opening the solenoid valve (when the engine speed sensor detects engine speed at or below a specified value).

’ Dashpot systems

5 Carburetorson some early Canadian modelswith an automatic transmission, all Canadian and California models with a manual transmission from 1983 and all 1985 and later models, regardless of transmission type or destination, are equipped with adashpot which delays the closing of the throttle valve during vehicle deceleration and reduces the hydrocarbon emissions.

Dashpot adjustment

Refer to ilhsfrafions 9.7, 9.8a and 9.8b

6 Before adjusting thedashpot, ly. Use a tachometer tions. make sure the idle speed is set correct- connected according to the manufacturer’s instruc-

7 Push the dashpot rod up through its entire stroke until it comes to a stop (see illustration).

8 Checkthe engine speed (set speed) at this point and compare it to the specifications. If it is not correct, turn the dashpot adjusting screw, as necessary, until the set speed is as specified (see illustrations).

9 Raise the engine speed, then release the throttle. If the engine speed drops too quickly (see this Chapter’s Specifications), the dashpot should be replaced.

10 High altitude compensation system (carbureted models only)

Refer to illustration 10.1

1 The high altitude compensation system (see illustration) is installed on later model vehicles in order to maintain the appropriate fuel/airmixture at high altitudes. The system affects the primary metering system in the carburetor to alter the fuel/air mixture.

2 A small cylindrical bellows mounted on the fender well,, along with several rubber hoses, are the only components of the system.

3 Maintenance consists of checking the hoses for cracks and other damage as well as secure connections.

6.- 18

11.1

Chader 6 Emissions control systems

FY 3 J

,T?TEzL

Primary throttle valve czs===-

Secondary throttle valve

Nipple 7’ automatic transmrrsron

Vacuum delay valve assembly

Vacuum delay valve component layout (some later models with automatic transmission)

1 The throttle opener system (see hicles with arr conditioning. illustration) is installed on all ve-

It consists of a throttle opener assembly, a solenoid valve, an engine speed sensor and the compressor switch for the air conditioner.

2 The throttle openeropens the throttle slightly when the air conditioning system is turned on (which prevents stalling and increases emission due to the increased engine load).

3 The throttle opener adjustment is part of the idle speed adjustment procedure (see Chapter 4).

4 Maintenance consists of checking the vacuum hoses and wires for, damage and correct installation and making sure the linkage is not binding- in any way.

~~~~ models only)

Refer fo illustration 11.7

1 Some later vehicles with an automatic transmission are equipped with avacuum delay valve (see illustration), which delays the opening of the secondary throttle valve and reduces CO and HC emissions during acceleration.

2 Periodically check the vacuum hoses for cracks, leaks and correct installation. The delay valve itself should be open when avacuum is applied to one end and restricted when vacuum is applied to the other end.

12 Throttle opener (carbureted models only)

Refer to illustration 12.1

13 Feedback Carburetor (FBC) system

Description

Refer to illustration 13.1

1 An electronically controlled feedback carburetor (FBC) system (see illustration) is used on 1985 and later models. The fuel@ir mixture delivered by the carburetor is controlled by solenoid valves, which are activated by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). The ECU receives signajs- from several sensors, including the exhaust gas oxygen sensor,. throttle position sensor,vacuum swatch and intake air temperature sensor. De- pending on the input from the various sensors, the ECU cycles the sole; noid valves on the carburetor to regulate the fuel/air mixture to obtain the lowest emissions driveability. levels possible while maintaining an acceptable level of.

2 The fuel inlet, primary metering, secondary pump and choke systems are essentially the same metering, accelerator as rn a conventronal carburetor. electronically

The jet (air) mixture, controlled. enrichment and fuel cut-off systems are

FThrottle opener operated

Engine speed sensor for the au switching valve system is commonly used

~---

;1_ opener lever *

* Par& with le asterisks are included rn the kit of arr-condrbomng unit

:* A/l Automatic trarrsmisrron

M/l Manual transmrrsion

1 Throttle opener Not operated (

12.1 Throttle opener system component layout (models with air conditlonlng)

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Low land

6-19

kr

. .

TiY

I ”

__--_-

I’

, l

NOTE: C Carburetor

+ Battqy control unit

13.1 Feedback carburetor system schematic

13.15 The carburetor fasteners must be checked to make sure they’re tight or air/fuel leaks will occur

3 The jet mixture solenoid, which is controlled by the ECU, is used to enrich the mixture if the exhaust gas oxygen sensor detects a lean condi- ition. As the mixture is restored to optimum, the jet mixture solenoid responds appropriately.

4 The enrichment system solenoid is activated in response to increased demand for rich fuel/air mixtures, such as during heave accelera- tipn or engine loads, cold start and warm-up additional fuel for the main metering system. operation. it provides

5 The fuel cut-off system deceleration solenoid cuts off fuel flow when the ignition key is turned off to prevent engine run-on (dieseling). certain deceleration conditions, the solenoid valve reduces

Under fuel flow to decrease HC emissions

6 and improve fuel economy.

Sincethefeedbackcarburetorisrathercomplex, majortroubleshoot- ing and testing of the system should be left to a dealer service department.

However,thedo-it-yourselfercanperformmanyofthemaintenancechecks andtestingprocedureswithoutspecialequipment.Symptomsofaproblem in the FBCinclude hardstartingorfailure tostart, unstableidleandpoordri- veability.Ifaproblemoccurs,besuretochecktheignitionsystemandengine mechanical condition before assuming that the FBC is at fault.

Throttle position system check

7 Remove the air cleaner from the engine and check the throttle position sensor plunger operation. Operate the throttle lever and see’if the plunger follows the cam mounted on the throttle shaft.

8 Check the sensor body and plunger for damage and cracks.

9 Checkthethrottlesensormountingscrewstomakesuretheyaretight

(do not move the sensor or the fuel/air mixture will be adversely affected).

10 The sensor can be adjusted, but it should be done by a dealer service department (a digital voltmeter is required).

Solenoid va/ve/thermo valve air filter replacement

11 If the filters on the therm0 valve and solenoid valve are clogged,driveability problems will result.

12 Thethermovalvehasacapwhichfitsoverthefilter.Ifthecapisremoved by pulling out on it, the filter can be removed and a new one installed.

13 The solenoid valve filter is aone piece assembly which can be pulled off the valve and replaced with a new one.

Carbure for fastener check

Refer to illustration 13.15

14 To avoid mixture control problems resulting from air and fuel leaks, the carburetor fasteners must be checked and tightened at the recommended intervals.

15 Remove the air cleanerassemblvand use awrench, socket orscrew- driver to check the tightness of the carburetor-to-intake manifold bolts, the float chamber cover screws and the accelerator

(see illustration). pump mounting screws

6-20 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Check item

Power supply

Distributor advance vacuum exchange solenoid valve

Throttle pnsltron sensor (TPS)

Coolant temperature sensor

Ignition switch OFF f ON

, 2000 rpm

Ignition switch

OFF - ON

~ ‘, Accelerat;<losed

-~~ .~I--

, Jgnmon awrtch

OFF - ON

Accelerator wide opened

1 20°C[680F) i i O-IV

13%15v

--Ii 0.2-1.W

-., i SV

I .-- -

; 2 4-2 hV i

4 -A-,;~

B.7 j A.,?

~__

II_. -. ~-~

Intake air temperature sensor

Vacuum switch Ignition switch OFF -

+ -- .~__t

~- __.

Idle up control solenoid valve

--~

Enrichment solenoid valve (ESVJ

A/C cut relay Ignition switch and

A/C switch

, OFF-ON

Accelerator clovd

-- -

Accelerator wide

1 opened

Power supply for sensor

Secondary air control solenoid valve! Igmtton switch

1 OFF-ON i i

, Ignfyon switch OFF + ON

I.

.-i

’ Coolant temp.

30-4O’C (86- 104°F) c ___--

Coolant temp.

Less than 30% (86’Fj or more than 40°C i (lu4’Fj

O-O.hV

-t- .---i j ll-13v

Check Item

____ ~-~~

Condition

__.

! Check meter reading when normal

Jet mixture solenoid valve (JSV) Ignition switch OFF --i Oh’ / ll-13v

Idling 2-1ov

Idle up control solenoid valve 2000 rpm wtth A/C s~ltch ON 13- ISV

5-;ir lgnitmn pulse Idling

I B-4

.--

B-3

Power supply for back.up

Deceleration solenoid valve (DSW

__ ._-__

Oxygen sensor t c

I

Idling

Idhng

I3-15V

0-U.hV

Quick deceleration from 4000 rpm to idhng with Momentarily

“P” or “N” position

13-ISV

Keep 1300 rpm after warmmg up

/ o-tv t Flashing

Terminai number of computer

B-l

A-10

- .__-._

A-9 j B-2

A-l

-.. .~___

B-5 Enrichment solenoid valve (ESV) Idling after warming up 12-15v

Quick acceleration from Idling to 4000 rpm with

“P” or “N” position

Momentarily approx. 5V

7 j

’

Secondary air control solenoid

Valve

Idling after warming UP

Qdlck deceleration from 200~ rpm to ldhng with

“p” or “N” posn,on ll- 13v

Momentarily

- u--U.bV

-y1’

B-4

13.16a FBC control unit voltage check table

-

PSl 1

1. i. i,

Connector B

1-j

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Connector A

6-2-l

13.16b FBC control unit connector termina! guide

Pole 1

Fj/

IV-----lb

13.23 Solenoid valve terminal guide

Pole 2

13.26 TPS terminal guide

System check (ECU input/output sighals)

Refer to illustrations 13.16a and 13.16b

16 The FBC system can be checked with a voltmeter by referring to the accompanying terminal identification guide and FBC control unit voltage check table (see illustrations). The component is listed in the left column and the desired voltmeter reading is indicated in the second column from the right. Attach onevoltmeter lead to the computer terminal indicated and the other lead to a good ground when making the check. Be sure to observe the conditions indicated in the chart.

Throttle opener check (air-conditioned models only)

17 Check the vacuum hoses and throttle opener control solenoid harness for correct installation.

18 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fitting on the throttle opener and attach a hand-type vacuum pump to the fitting with a length of hose.

19 Start and run the engine at idle, then apply a vacuum of 11.8 in-Hg

(300 mm-Hg) minimum with the pump. Theenginespeedshouldincrease.

If it doesn’t, replace the throttle opener with a new one.

Throttle opener solenoid valve check

20 With the ignition switch off, disconnect the wires from the throttle opener solenoid valve:

21 Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the solenoid valve terminals (it should be approximately 40 ohms).

Solenoid valve check

Refer to illustration 13.23

22 With the ignition switch off, disconnectthe noid valve. wire harness from thesole-

‘Air cleaner

View from P

13.29 Intake air temperature

’ hR&take air body. temperature sensor sensor location

23 Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the Deceleration

(DSV), Enrichment (ESV) and Jet Mixture (JSV) solenoid valve terminals

(see illustration). It should be 49.7 ohms:

24 Check the resistance between the Bowl Vent Valve (BVV) terminal and ground. It should be 80 ohms.

25 If a valve is defective, it must be unscrewed replaced with a new one. from the carburetor and

Throttle position sensor check

Refer to illustration 13.26

26 Unplug the throttle position sensor connector and check the resistance between terminals two and three (see illustration) with an ohmmeter. When the throttle is closed, it should be approximately 1.2 K-ohms.

27 . As the throttle is opened, the resistance should increase smoothly until it is approximately 4.9 K-ohms when the throttle is wide open.

28 If the sensor is defective, it should be replaced with a new one and adjusted by a dealer service department.

Intake air temperature sensor check

Refer to illustration 13.29

29 The intake air temperature cleaner housing (see illustration). sensor is mounted on the bottom of the air

Unplug the wiring harness connector and check the resistance between the sensor terminals.

30 It should be 2145 K-ohms at 68-degrees F. If it is considerably smallerthan specified, the sensor is open or short-circuited larger or and should be replaced with a new one.

Coolant temperature sensor check

31 If some means of monitoring the coolant temperature is available, the sensor can be checked in place by measuring the resistance between the sensor terminal and sensor body with an ohmmeter.

F-g

,lmcz-z - ._

--Fe

__.- am

-=I-? -:?I

6 - 22 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

*1 Oxy en sensor l 3 Intake air temperature sensor

*4 Engine coolant temperature sensor

“5 Throttle position sensor

‘6 Idle position switch

‘7 No.1 cylinder top dead center sensor

‘8 Crank angle sensor

‘9 Motor oosition sensor

* 10 Barometric pressure sensor l

Ignition switch-ST l l l l

Power supply

Vehicle-speed sensor

Air conditioner switch

Inhibitor switch <AIT>

II. ,.,.

Throttle position sensor \

*l lniector

63 speed control servo

43 Purge control solenoid l l valve

Fuel pump control

(control relay)

Air conditioner power relay l l

Ignition timing control

Self-diagnosis output e Malfunction indicator light

Idle posrtron swatch

(For auto.,aircon)

/ n

Canister

F H ON

Purge control

Air inlet

Air temperature sensor

Fuel tank +- =

Oxygen sensor

(‘1 I - =-,I No. 1 cvlinder

L!l

- ’ top dead center

Distributor i sensor --’

-F :uet pu mp

Vacuum ho-se color

G: Green

L: Light blue

R: Red

Y: Yellow

Engine coolant temperature sensor

PCV. : Positive Crankcase Ventilation

ISC: Idle Speed Control

14.la Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system (2.4L Federal and Canadian models) l l Oxygen sensor

‘2 Air-flow sensor

‘3 Intake air temoerature sensor

“4 Engine coolant temperature sensor

“5 Throttle position sensor l 6 Idle position switch l 7 No.1 cylinder top dead center sensor

‘8 Crank angle sensor

“10 Barometric sensor pressure

*ll EGR temperature sensor

Ignition switch - ST

Power supply

Vehicle-speed sensor

Air conditioner switch

Inhibitor switch <AR=

Air filter

Air inlet l 10 ‘2

Throttle posrtton sensor

\Ir” valve

44 EGR control solenoid valve l

Fuel pump control l l l l

(control relay)

Air conditioner power relay

Ignition timing control

Self-diagnosis output

Malfunction indicator light

Idle position switch

Canister

(For auto. ,arr-con)n nFF - nN

/ l 8

{

Crank ang1e i

II &Fuel

Ilwpressure h k

; ,IjYhCrewlatorJ

(

II I

-- Fuel

EGR control solenoid valve

Vacuum hose color

G: Green

L: Light blue

14.lb f

Multi-Point

‘4 oolant temperature

Injection (MPI) system (2.4L California

PCV: Positive Crankcase Ventilation

ISC: Idle Speed Control models)

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

*I Oxy en sensor

“2 Air-fPow sensor

“3 Intake air temperature sensor

*4 Engine coolant temperature sensor

“5 Throttle position switch

*6 Idle position switch

“7 Top dead center sensor l 8 Crank angle sensor

*9 Barometric pressure sensor

Canister l l l l l l l ignition switch - ST

Ignition switch - IG,

Power supply

Vehicle-speed sensor,

Air conditioner switch

Power steering oil pressure switch <A/T>

Inhibitor switch <AIT>

6-23

*l Injector

*2 idle speed control servo l

*3 Purge control solenoid valve

Fuel pump control (control. relay) l

Air conditioner power relay l l

0 Ignition timing control

Self-diagnosis circuit

Malfunction indicator light

Fast idle air valve speed control servo ON -

‘8

B solenoid valve pressure sensor

From fuel pump -+

) To fuel tank

*7 Top dead center sensor

Vacuum hose color

B: Black

L: Light blue

R: Red sensor

14.1~ Multi-Poinflnjection

Catalytic converter

(MPI) system (3.OL Federal and Canadian models)

32 At 68-degrees F, the resistance should be 2.45 K-ohms. At 176-degrees F (cool&t temperature), the resistance should be 296 ohms.

33 If the coolant temperature cannot be monitored closely, drain the cooling system (see Chapter I), remove the sensor and heat the end in a pan of water to the specified temperatures, then take the resistance readings. If this is done, make sure the sensor body is at least l/8-inch away from the water surface.

34 When reinstalling the sensor, use sealant on the threads and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Vacuum switch check

35 The vacuum switch is mounted on the right side of the firewall.

36 Unplug the wiring harness connector and attach the leads of an ohmmeter or self-powered test light to the switch terminals. No continuity should be indicated.

37 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the switch fitting and attach a hand-held vacuum pump to the fitting with a section of hose.

38 Apply a vacuum of 10.2 in-Hg (?60 mm-Hg) or more and make sure continuity is indicated. Release’the vacuum and verify that continuity is interrupted.

39 If the switch fails the check, replace it with a neti one.

14 Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system

Refer to illustrations 14. la, 14. lb, 14. lc, 14. Id, 14.3a and 14.3b

1 A Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system is used on all 1990 and, later models. MPI is a computerized engine management system which controls all emission, fuel and ignition functions. The fuel control functions of the MPI system are covered in Chapter 4. The information in this Section concerns the electroniccontrol unit (ECU), the information sensors it uses to monitor the MPI system and the emission devices it uses to adjust the system (see illustrations).

2 The ECU is the “brain”of the MPI system. its sophisticata’d network of information sensors monitor engine operation and transmit digital voltage signals to the ECU. The ECU analyzes this data, compares it to the “map”

(program) stored in its memory and fine-tunes variables such as ignition timing, spark advance, fuel injector pulse width and idle speed by read- justing various devices such as the fuel injectors, the idle speed control servo, the purge control solenoid valve, etc. The result is an always correct air-fuel ratio under all driving conditions that lowers exhaust emissions and maintains good driveability.

6 - 24 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

*1 Oxy en sensor

*2 Air wow sensor

‘3 Intake air temperature sensor

“4 Engine coolant temperature sensor

“5 Throttle position sensor

“6 idle position switch

“7 Top dead center sensor

“8 Crank angle sensor

‘9 Barometric pressure sensor

*IO EGR temperature sensor l l lgnrtion switch - ST

Ignition switch - IG, l l l

Power supply

Vehicle speed sensor l

Air conditioner switch

0 Power steering oil pressure switch <AIT>

Inhibitor switch <pJT>

Canister

*l Injector

*2 Idle speed control servo

*3 Purge control solenoid valve

*4 EGR control solenoid valve e Fuel pump control (control relay) l

Air conditioner power relay

0 Ignition timing control l

Self-diagnosis output e Malfunction indicator light

, Fast idle air valve

Idle speed-control servo

Cl-3 Air flow sensor

] Air inlet

*3 ’ intake air temp. sensor Fuef ore&&e’reaulator

From fuel pump -+

Positrve crankcase ventilation valve

--+1 lel tank

*7 Top dead center sensor

Engine coolant temperature sensor ’ )s

-~ . -.

Catalytrc converter

14.ld Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system (3.OL California models)

V~C;U$;~ hose color

G: Green

;, Liz;t blue

Yl Yellow

3 Numerous sensors transmit data to the ECU; they include:

Air conditioner switch

Air-flow sensor

Barometricpressure

Coo/ant temperature sensor sensor

Crank angle sensor

EGR temperature sensor (California models)

/d/e position switch ignition switch

Inhibitor switch (mode/s equipped with an automatic transmission)

Intake air temperature sensor

Motor position sensor (2.4L engine)

Oxygen sensor

Throttle position sensor

Top dead center sensor

Vehicle speed sensor

You can locate these sensors and switches by referring to the accompanying illustrations (see illustrations).

4 The ECU also monitors most of its own input and output circuits. If it detects a fault somewhere in the MPI system, it stores this information in its memory. You can often determine the location of a problem, or at least yhich circuit it’s in, by outputting stored malfunction codes with a voltmeter. To learn how to output this information and display it on a voltmeter, refer to Section 15.

5 t Your first step should be a thorough visual inspection of the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors in the part of the

MPI system that’s malfunctioning. Make sure everything is properly connected and/or plugged in. The most common cause of a problem in an MPI system is a loose or corroded electrical connector or a loose vacuum line. If that doesn’t solve the problem, you’ll find simple tests of the important information sensorsin

Section 16.

15 Self-diagnosis models only) and malfunction codes (fuel-injected

Note: To access the code information on 1996 2.4L models, it is necessary to use a the MU J- II Scan Toolandadditionalsupport test equipment.

These tools are very expensive and are not recommended for use by the home mechanic. If you suspect a problem with the emission related wm- ponentsona department

19962.4Lmode/, or other repau shop. have thesystem testedbyadealerservice

Refer to illustrations 15. I, 15.6 and 15.7

1 When a malfunction in the MPI system is detected by the ECU, a malfunction indicator light (see illustration) on the instfument panel comes on. If the ECU detects that the trouble has disappeared before the ignition

Chapter 6 Emissiqns control systems 6-25

-43

-ilil

14.3a MPI system component location

(2.4L models)

Air conditioner compressor

Air flow sensor power relay

/d/e speed control servo (idle position switch, motorposition sensor) -

Throttle position sensor

Engine coolant temperature

Ignition c&l (power transistor) sensor

Crank angle sensor and No. I cylinder Top

Dead Center sensor

Purge control solenoid valve

Fuel injectors)

Oxygen sensor inhibitor switch (models with automa tic transmission)

Engine control relay

Air conditioners witch

Vehicle speed sensor

Engine control unit (ECU)

EGR control solenoid valve

Self-diagnosis connector

EGR temperature sensor (California models)

Ignition timing adjustment terminal

14.3b MPI system component locatio;

(3.OL models)

T u

Air conditioner compressor

Air flow sensor power relay

Idle speed control (IX) servo

Throttle position sensor (with idle position switch)

Air conditioner

Engine coolant temperature temperature ignition coil (power transistor) sensor sensor

Craqk qgle sensor

Purge control solenoid’valve

Fuel injectors

Oxygen serisor

Inhibitor switch (models with automatic t[ansmission)

*Engine control relay

Air conditioner switch

Engine warning light (malfunction indicator light)

Power steering oil pressure switch (automatic transmission models)

Ignition timing adjustment terminal

Self-diagnosis connector

Engine control unit

EGR temperature

EGR controlsolenoid sensor (California models) valve (California models)

6 - 26

Output pfeft?WlC6! order

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Memory

Check item (Remedy1

- (Replace engina control

!mtt)

Malfunction

-_- -.

Intake a,, temprat”re

StmSOl

Throttle

15.1 The malfunction indicator light

(arrow) is located on the instrumenttYuster ~-

Selfdiagnosis connector

’

MPI-pjagnosis

13 l”,em

!-I

41 uuuI n 1

. Hames and conneefor

Retmled l

Harness and connector

. EGR temperature sense,

. EGR v&e

. EGA valve contml s&mold vake

”

12.w,a7

!j5

. EGR vahe ccntroi vac”“~

Ground

15.6 The self-diagnosis connector is located in the console, below the radio - to put the ECU into malfunction code output mode, simply hook up an analog voltmeter to the indicated terminals of the connector

15.7 Malfunction code and diagnosis table

AFS side connector

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Air flow sensor side connector

16.2a To check the intake air temperature models, measure the resistance between terminals sensor on 1990

4 and 6 of the air flow sensor

16.2b To check the intake air temperature models, measure the resistance between terminals air flow sensor sensor on 1991

5 and 6 of the switch has been turned off, the light goes out. And even if the light remains on, it goes out when the ignition switch is turned off. The next time the ignition switch is turned on, the light doesn’t come back on again unless the

ECU has “memorized” the code(s) it stored the last time you operated the vehicle, or it detects the malfunction again. The light does, however, come on for five seconds -then goes out-every time you turn on the ignition switch, to indicate that the malfunction indicator light circuit is operating normally.

2 The malfunction indicator light will comes on when any of the following components

Air flowsensor

Barometric develop a problem: pressure sensor

Crank angle sensor

EGR temperature

Fuel injector(s) sensor (California models)

Engine control unit

Engine coolant temperature sensor

Fuel pump intake air temperature sensor

Motor position sensor (2.4L engines)

No. 1 cylinder TDC sensor

Oxygen sensor

Throttle position sensor

3 To check the malfunction indicator light, verify that the light comes on for five seconds when you turn on the ignition switch. If the light doesn’t come on, check the indicator light circuit and the light bulb.

4 If the malfunction indicator light comes on -and stays on -when you start the car, or if it comes on while you’re driving -and doesn’t go off, drive the vehicle home and discontinue malfunction code(s), identified operation the problem until you’ve and fixed it. outputted the

5 Any malfunction codes memorized andstored bythe ECU will remain in its memory even when the ignition switch is turned off, because the computer memory is battery-powered when the engine electrical system is shut off. But if the battery is disconnected, or the ECU is unplugged, memory is erased and any codes stored are lost. Because the ECU’s memory is battery-powered when the engine is turned off, the battery must be fully charged and in good condition. If battery voltage is low, the ECU is unable to detect a malfunction or memorize and store a code.

6 To output the malfunction codes, hook up an analog voltmeter to the self-diagnosis connector as shown (see illustration).

7 Turn the ignition switch to On. The ECU will begin displaying the contents of its memory immediately. fjow refer to the accompanying malfunction code and diagnosis table (see illustration). If the MPI system is operating normally and there are no-problems, the needle on the voltmeter indicates a normal pattern of deflection; in other words, it deflects on and off at a regular rate -the “on” and “off” segments are equal in duration (see the “normal state” output signal pattern). However, if the ECU outputs a malfunction code, the deflection of the voltmeter needle will be long or short (sort of like Morse code). For example, if the oxygen sensor is malfunctioning, the needle will make one long deflection, followed by a one short deflection; if the air flow sensor is bad, the needle will make one long deflection, then two short ones; and so on.

Intake air

16.3a Heating the intake air temperature sensor on a 1990 model

8 Note that the actual malfunction code number on the accompanying table is not the same number as the output preference order (far left column on the chart). That’s because the ECU outputs any stored codes in - a specific order to simplify your task of identifying each sequence of needle deflection patterns.

9 After you’ve outputted all stored codes and identified the general source of the problem(s), check the suspected go to the next Section, or the indicated Chapter, bad component repairs or replace the component. or circuit and make the necessary

10 After you’ve fixed the problem, check your work: Repeat the procedure above and verify that the malfunction code for the problem you fixed is no longer displayed. If the code is still displayed, you haven’t fixed the problem (or the ECU itself isfaulty, but don’t replace an ECU until you’re positive that everything in a circuit or system is functioning normally).

11 To erase the ECU’s memory of any stored codes once the problem is fixed, simply disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for at least 10 seconds.

16 Information sensors (fuel-injected models only)

Intake air temperature sensor

Refer to illustrations 16.2a, 16.26, 16.3a and 16.3b

1 Unplug the electrical connector from the intake air temperature sensor.

2 Measure the resistance between the indicated terminals (see illustrations).

3 While heating the sensor with a hair drier (see illustrations), measure the resistance and note how the resistance sor heats up. At 32-degrees changes as the sen-

F, the resistance should be 6 k-ohms; at

68-degrees F, it should be 2.7 k-ohms; at 176-degrees F, it should be

Intake arr temperature sensor

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

16.3b Heating the intake air temperature sensor on a 1991 model 16.5 To check the engine coolant temperature its sensing tip in a container of water and, sensor, as the water immerse heats up, measure the resistance across the terminals

16.8 To check the throttle position sensor, measure resistance between terminals 1 and 4 the 16.14 sensor

Hook output up a voltmeter voltage) between terminal 19 (throttle and terminal control unit

24 (ground) position of the engine

\\ ‘\ \-i

16.15 If the throttle position sensor on a 2.4L model is out of specification, adjust it by loosening rotating the sensor - clockwise the mounting rotation increases voltage; counterclockwise decreases it screws and the output

16.19 On 3.OL models, hook up an ohmmeter

1 and 2 with a pair of jumper wires between terminals

0.4 k-ohms. In other words, as the temperature should go down. goes up, the resistance

4 If your readings deviate significantly from these figures, replace the sensor. Don’t forget to plug in the electrical connector.

Engine coolant temperature sensor

Refer to illustration 16.5

5 Unplug the electrical connector from the engine coolant temperature sensor, remove the sensor from the intake manifold and immerse its temperature sensing tip in a container of water. Place a thermometer in the water so you can monitor the temperature and hook upan ohmmeter to the terminals of the sensor. As the water heats up, measure the resistance across the sensor terminals (see illustration). Compare your measurements with the resistance values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

6 If your readings deviate significantly from these figures, replace the sensor. Be sure to apply thread sealant or Teflon tape to the threads of the new unit to prevent leaks. Tighten the coolant temperature torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. sensor

Plug in the electrical tothe connector.

Throttle position sensor

Refer to ihstrafions 16.8, 16.14, 16.15, 76.19, 16.20 and 16.21

7 Unplug the electrical connector from the throttle position sensor. -

8 Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 4 (see illustration) and compare your measurement with the resistance value listed in this

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems 6-29

16.20 insert feeler gauges with a combined thickness of 0.0256 in between the fixed SAS and the throttle lever (3.OL models)

16.21 The TPS is located on the side of the throttle body - it’s secured by two screws

Motor position EfEfil

16.32 To check the idle position switch on 2.4L models, check the continuity between terminal 4 of the electrical connector and ground-with the accelerator pedal pressed down, there should be no continuity; with the pedal released, there should be continuity

16.36 To check the idle position switch on 3.OL models, check the continuity between terminal 1 (sensor ground) and terminal

2 (idle position switch) of the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor

Chapter’s Specifications. If the indicated resistance is outside this specification, replace the throttle position sensor.

9 Using an analog ohmmeter hooked up to terminals 2 and 4 (2.4L engine)orterminals 1 and3 (3.OLengine), slowlyopenthethrottlevalvefrom its idle position all th&vay to the fully open position and verify that the resistance rises smoothly in proportion to the throttle valve opening angle.

10 If the indicated resistance doesn’t fall within the specified values or operate as described above, replace the throttle position sensor.

11 Loosen the accelerator cable (see Chapter 4).

12 If you’re adjusting the TPS on a 3,OL engine, proceed to Step 18. If

‘you’re adjusting the TPS on a 2.4L engine, follow Steps 13 through 17.

13 Plug in the electrical connector.

14 Connect a digital voltmeter between terminals age) and 24 (ground) of the engine control unit (see

19 (TPS output volt- illustration). Turn the ignition switch to On - don’t start the engine -and verify that the output voltage from the throttle position sensor is within the range listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications.

15 If the throttle position sensor is out of specification, ing the mounting screws adjust it by loosen-

(see illustration) and rotating the sensor. Clock- wise rotation increases the output voltage; counterclockwise decreases it.

16 After adjustment, tighten the screws securely.

17 Adjust the accelerator cable (see Chapter 4).

18 On 3.OL engines, unplug the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor.

19 Hookup an ohmmeter between terminals 1 and 2 with apairofjumper wires (see illustration).

20 Insert feeler gauges with atotal combined thickness tween the fixed SAS and the throttle lever of 0.0256 in be-

(see illustration).

21 Loosen the throttle position sensor mounting screws tion). 22

(see iiiustra-

Turn the sensor clockwise as far as it will go, then checkthe continuity between terminals 1 and 2.

23 Slowly turn the throttle position sensor in the counterclockwise direction to the point at which there’s no longer any continuity. Tighten the sensor mounting screws securely at this point.

24 Plug in the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor.

25 Hookupavoltmeter between terminal 19 (throttle position sensorout- put voltage) and terminal 24 (ground) of the engine control unit(see illustration 16.14).

26 Turn the ignition switch to On (but don’t start the engine), check the output voltage of the throttle position sensor and compare,your reading to the standard value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

27 If the indicated resistance is outside the specified value, check the throttle position sensor and the wiring harness.

28 Remove the feeler gauge.

29 Turn the ignition switch to Off.

30 Adjust the tension of the accelerator cable (see Chapter 4).

Idle position switch

2.4L engine

Refer to illustration 16.32

31 Unplug the electrical connector from the idle position switch.

32 Check the continuity between terminal 4 and ground (see iilustra- tion). With the accelerator pedal pressed down, there shouldn’t be any continuity (infinite resistance); continuity (zero resistance). with the pedal released, there should be

If the idle position switch fails either test, replace it.

33 Plug in the connector.

3.OL engine

Refer to illustration 16.36

34 With the accelerator pedal released, verify that the throttle valve lever or the fixed SAS is pushed. If it isn’t, adjust the fixed SAS (see Section 26 in Chapter 4).

6 - 30 Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Motor position sensor connector

16.40 To check the motor position sensor (2.4 models only), measure the resistance between electrical terminal connector

2 and terminal 3 of the

16.48 To check the oxygen sensor on 3.OL models, check the continuity between terminal 2 and terminal 4 of the connector

35 Unplug the electrical connector from the throttle posrtron sensor.

36 Check the continuity between terminal 1 (sensor ground) and terminal 2 (idle position switch) of the throttle position sensor connector (see illustration). With the accelerator pedal pushed down, there shouldn’t be any continuity (infinite resistance); be continuity (zero resistance). with the pedal released, there should

If there is no continuity when the accelerator pedal is returned, loosen the throttle position sensor mounting screws, turn the sensor as far as it will go in the clockwise direction and check again If the throttle position sensor still fails either test, replace it (the idle position switch is inside the throttle position sensor, so you have to replace the throttle position sensor to replace the idle position switch).

37 If you install a new throttle position sensor/idle position switch unit, adjust it [see Steps 18 through 30) before tightening the throttle position sensor mounting screws securely.

38 Plug in the electrical connector.

Motor position sensor (2.4L engine only)

Refer to illustration 16.40

39 Unplug the electrical connector from the motor position sensor.

40 Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3 (see illustration).

Compare your measurement with the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifi- cations. If the indicated value isn’t within this range, replace the motor position sensor.

41 Unplug the electrical connector from the idle-speed control servo.

42 Hook up a6V DC battery between terminals 1 and 2 of the idle-speed control servo connector (see illustration), then measure the resistance between terminals 3 and 5 of the motor position sensor connector while the idle-speed control servo is powered up by the 6V battery (it should ex- pandand contract). If the motor position sensor is functioning properly, the indicated-resistance servo plunger contracts. should decrease smoothly as the idle speed control

43 If the indicated resistance doesn’t behave this way, or if the change isn’t smooth, replace the idle speed control servo assembly.

Oxygen sensor

2.4L engine

44 Warm up the engine to its normal operating temperature.

45 Unplug the electrical connector to the oxygen sensor and hook up a digital voltmeter between the connector terminal and ground (1990 mod- em orbetwee?i the connector terminals (1991 models).

46 Race the engine several times and note the oxygen sensor output voltage. Compare your measurement to the output voltage values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the indicated output voltage falls outside the specified value, replace the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 1).

16.51 Connect terminal 2 and terminal 4 of the connector posltive and negative battery terminals, respectively, with to the jumper wires, hook up a digital voltmeter to terminal 1 and terminal 3 of the connector, race the engine several times and measure the output voltage of the oxygen sensor

3.OL engine

Refer to illustrations 16.48 and 16.51

47 Unplug the electrical connector for the oxygenTsensor.

48 Check the continuity between terminal 2 and terminal 4 of the connec tor (see illustration). There should be about 20 ohms of resistance when the sensor is cool (approximately g&degrees F).

49 If there’s no continuity, replace the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 1).

50 Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

51 Connect terminal 2 and terminal 4 of the connector to the positive and negative battery terminals, respectively, with jumper wires (see illustration). Caution: Connecting the terminals on the connector to the battery terminals in the reverse order can damage the oxygen sensor.

52 Hook up adigitaf voltmeter to termrnal 1 and terminal 3 of the connector.

53 Race the engine several times and measure the output voltage of the oxygen sensor. Compare your measurement with the output voltage listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the indicated voltage isn’t within the specified voltage range, replace the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 1).

EGR temperature sensor (California models only)

54 See Section 7 for this procedure.

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

Contents

Alternator - removal and installation ........................

Battery cables - check and replacement ..............

Battery check and maintenance

Battery - emergency jump starting

..................

.........................

Battery-removal and installation : .........................

Centrifugal advance assembly -check and replacement

Charging system - check ................................

_ _ ....

See Chapter 1

_ 3

........ 9

Charging system - general information

Distributor electronic components - check and precautions and replacement

Distributor pick-up air gap-check and adjustment ............

........

Distributor - removal and installation

Drivebelt check, adjustment

....................... and replacement .......

General information ..................................

....

See Chapter 1

.. _ 1

Ignition coil and ballast resistor - check and replacement

Ignitionsystem-check.. ........... _._____ ____ . _.._

.......

.....

Ignition system-general information and precautions ignition timing check and adjustment ..............

Spark plug replacement ........... _. .........

..........

See Chapter 1

_. See Chapter 1

Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement

Starter

............................ motor - in-vehicle motor - removal check .............. and installation .....................

See Chapter 1

_ ............ 18

Starter motor/solenoid/gear reduction assembly - replacement

Starting system - general information and precautions

Vacuum advance unit - check and replacement ...............

.........

Voltage regulator/alternator brushes - replacement ............

. . 20

Specifications

Distributor pick-up air gap

Note: The air gap check and adjustment procedure is not applicable to 1990 and later models with 2.4L and 3.OL engines.

1983models . . .._......_..............................

1984 through 1989 Mitsubishi type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . .

1986 through 1989 Nippondenso type . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not adjustable

0.031 inch

0.008 to 0.015 inch

Ignition coil

Primary resistance

1983 through 1985 models

1986 through 1989 models

1990 and later models

Secondary resistance

. . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . .

1983 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1984 and 1985 models

Pick-up . . . . . _ . . . _ . . . . . . . . . .

Montero . . . . _ _ . _ . . . . . . . . _ . . .

1986 models

Mitsubishi type (2.6L engine)

Nippondenso type (2.OL engine)

. .‘.

........

. . ........

........

1.04 to 1.27 ohms

1.2 ohms

0.72 to 0.88 ohms

7.10 to 9.60 K-ohms

11.6 to 15.8 K-ohms

17.0 K-ohms

13.7 K-ohms

5-2 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems ignition coil (continued)

1987models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1988 and 1989 models

Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .._.._...._...._._....

Montero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1990 and later models

Pick-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Montero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ballast resistor resistance

1983through1985models

1986 and later models

. . . . . . . ..i..._......._........

. . . . . . . . . . . . _ _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22.5 K-ohms

27.0 K-ohms

14.5 to 19.5 K-ohms

10.3 to 13.9 K-ohms

14.5 to 19.5 K-ohms

1.2 to 1.5 ohms

1.35 ohms

Pick-up coil resistance

Note: The pick-up coil resistance check is not applicable to 1990 and later models.

1983models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..j...........

1984 through 1989 Mitsubishi type

1986 through 1989 Nippondenso

. . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . .

920 to 1,120 ohms

140 to 180 ohms

1 General information

Theengineelectrical components. Because systems include all ignition, of their engine-related charging functions, and starting these components are discussed separately from chassis electrical devices such as the lights, the instruments, etc (which are included in Chapter 12).

Always observe the following precautions when working on the electrical systems: a) Be extremely careful when servicing engine electrical components. They are easily damaged if checked, connected or handled improperly. b) Never leave the ignition switch on for long periods of time with the engine off. c) Don’t disconnect the battery cables while the engine is running. d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting another vehicle during jump starting. a battery cable from e) Always disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool being used to loosen the cable clamps.

It’s also a good idea to review the safety-related information regarding the engine electrical systems located in the Safety first section near the front of this manual before beginning any operation included in this Chap- ter.

3.1 To remove the battery

1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal

2 Detach the cable for the positive terminal

3 Remove the nuts and detach the hold-down clamp

2 Battery -emergency jump starting

Refer to the Booster baffery &mp) starting procedure at the front of this manual.

3 Battery - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 3.1

1 Caution: Always disconnect the negative cable first and hook if up last or the battery may be shorted by the fool being used to loosen the cable clamps. Disconnect both cables from the battery terminals (see illustration).

2 Remove the battery hold-down clamp.

3 Lift out the battery. Be careful - it’s heavy.

4 While the battery is out, inspect the carrier (tray) for corrosion (see

Chapter 1).

5 If you are replacing the battery, make sure that you get one that’s identical, with the same dimensions, amperage rating, cold cranking rating, etc.

6 Installation is the reverse pf removal.

Battery cables-check and replacement

1 Periodically inspect the entire length of each battery cable for damage, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable con-. nections can cause starting problems and decreased engine performance.

2 Check the cable-to-terminal connections at the ends of the cables for cracks, loose wire strands and corrosion. The presence of white, fluffy de--~ posits under the insulation at the cable terminal connection IS a srgn that the cable is corroded and should be replaced. Check the terminals fordis- tortion, missing mounting bolts and corrosion.

3 When removing the cables, always disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool used to loosen the cable clamps. Even if only the positive cable is being replaced, be sure to disconnect the negativecable ter 1 for further information regarding from the battery battery first [see Chap- cable removal).

4 Disconnectthe old cables from the battery, then trace each of them to their opposite ends and detach them from the starter sojenord and ground terminals. Note the routing of eaci cable to ensure correct installation.

5 If you are replacing either one or both of the cables, take them with you when buying new cables. It is vitally important that you replace the

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-3

6.2 To use a calibrated ignition tester (available at most auto parts stores), simply disconnect a spark plug wire, attach the wire to the tester and clip the tester to a good ground-if there

Is enough power to fire the plug, sparks will be clearly visible between the electrode tip and the tester body as the engine is turned over cables with identical parts. Cables have characteristics that make them easy to identify: positive cables are usually red, larger in cross section and have a larger diameter battery post clamp; ground cables are usually black, smaller in cross-section and have a slightly smallerdiameterclamp for the negative post.

6 brush to remove rust and corrosion. Apply a light coat of battery terminal corrosion inhibitor, or petroleum jelly, to the threads to prevent future corrosion.

Clean the threads of the solenoid or ground connection with a wire

Attach the cable to the solenoid or ground connection and tighten the mounting nut/bolt securely.

8 Before connecting a new cable to the battery, make sure that it reaches the battery post without having to be stretched.

9 Connect the positive cable first, followed by the negative cable.

5 Ignition system-general information and precautions

When working on the ignition system, take the following precautions: a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for more than 10 seconds if the engine will not start. b) Always connect a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Some tachometers may be incompatiblewith this ignitionsystem. Consultadealerservicedepartment before buying a tachometer for use with this vehicle. c) Never allow the primary terminals of the ignition coil to touch ground. d) Do not disconnect the battery when the engine is running.

The ignition system includes the ignition switch, the battery, the coil, the primary (low voltage) andsecondary (high voltage) wiring circuits, the distributor and the spark plugs. On later distributors not using avacuum or centrifugal advance, the ignition timing is controlled by the Electronic

Control Unit (ECU). ’ +

7.2 To remove a typical coil from the engine compartment,

I disconnect the primary wires and the high-voltage lead, then unbolt the bracket

1 Negative primary wire

2 Positive primary wire

3 Bracket

4 Ballast resistor

5 High-voltage lead most auto parts stores). Note: Be sure to purchase the correct tester for either an electronic distributor or points distributon depending which system the vehicle is equipped with.

2 Connect the clip on the tester to a bolt or metal bracket on the engine

(see illustration). If you’re unable to obtain a calibrated ignition tester, remove the wire from one of the spark plugs and, using an insulated tool, hold the end of the wire about l/4-inch from a good ground.

3 Crank the engine and watch the end of the tester or sparkplug wire to see if bright blue, well-defined sparks occur. If you’re not using acalibrated tester, have an assistant crank the engine for you. Warning: Keep ctearof drivebelts and other moving engine components that could injure you.

4 If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the plug to fire it (repeat the check at the remaining plug wires to verify the wires, distributor cap, rotor and coil are OK. However, the plugs themselves may be fouled, so remove them and check them as described in Chapter 1.

5 If no sparks or intermittent sparks occur, remove the distributor cap and check the cap and rotor as described in Chapter 1. If moisture is present, dry out the cap and rotor, then reinstall the cap.

6 If there isstill nospark, detachthecoilsecondarywirefromthedistrib- utor cap and hook it up to the tester (reattach the plug wire to the spark plug), then repeat the spark check. Again, if you don’t have a tester, hold the end of the wire about l/4 inch from a good ground. If sparks occur now, the distributor cap, rotor or plug wire(s) may be defective.

If no sparks occur, check the wire connections at the coil to make sure they’re clean and tight. Check for voltage to the coil. Make any necessary repairs; then repeat the check again.

If there’s still no spark, the coil-to-cap wire may be bad (check the resistance with an ohmmeter- it should be 7000 ohms per foot or less). If a known good wire doesn’t make any difference in the test results, the ignition coil, module or pick-up coil may be defective.

7 Ignition coil and ballast resistor - check and replacement

6 Ignition system - check

Refer to illustration 6.2

Warning: Because of the very high voltage generated by the ignition system, extreme care should be taken when this check is performed.

1 If the engine turns over but won’t start, disconnect the sparkplug wire from any sparkplug and attach it to a calibrated ignition tester (available at

Ignition coil

Refer to illustrations 7.2, 7.4a, 7.4b, 7.5a and 7.5b

1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2 Mark the wires and terminals with pieces of numbered tape, then remove the primary wires and the high-voltage

lead from the coil (seeillus-

tration). Disconnect the coil mounting bracket, remove the coil/bracket assembly, clean the outer case and check it for cracks and other damage.

5-4 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

2.4L Engine

3.OL Engine

High- \oJ

,voltage terminal

High. voitage terminal

7.4a To check the coil primary resistance on an earlier type coil, touch the leads of an ohmmeter to the positive and negative primary terminals (arrows) and compare your reading with the coil primary resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications

3 Clean the coil primary terminals and check the coil tower terminal for corrosion. Clean it with a wire brush if any corrosion is found.

4 Check the coil primary resistance by attaching the leads of an ohmmeter to the positive and negative primary terminals (see illustrations).

Compare your readings to the primary resistance listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications.

5 Checkthe wilsecondaryresistance by hooking one of theohmmeter leads to one of the primary terminals and the other ohmmeter lead to the lanje center terniinl(see secondary resistance illustrations). listed in this Chapter’s

Compare your readings

Specifications. to the

6 If the measured resistances are not as specified, the coil is probably defective and should be replaced with a new one.

7 For properT@fion system operation, all coil terminals and wire leads must be kGpt clean and dry.

8 Install the coil in the vehicle and hook up the wires.

Ballast resistor

9 Some earlier models use a ballast resistor (see illustration protect the coil from excessive voltage during low-speed operation.

7.2) to

1 b To check the ballast resistor, detach it from the coil or firewall, unplug the leads, touch the probes of an ohmmeter to the terminals of the resistor andcorii@Gj%WE%idings fications. If the resistance to the resistance is not as specified, listed in this Chapter’s replace the resistor.

Speci-

7.4b To check the coil primary resistance on a later type coil, touch the leads of an ohmmeter to the positive and negative primary terminals and compare your reading with the coil primary resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications

8 Distributor - removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 8.6a and 8.6b

1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2 Unplug the coil high-voltage lead from the distributor cap.

3 Detach the vacuum hose(s) from the advance unit (if equipped).

4 Look for a raised “1 “on the distributor cap. This marks thk location for

-~ the number one cylinder sparkplug wire terminal. If the capdoes not have a mark for the numberbne terminal, locate the number one spark plug and trace the wire back to the terminal on the cap.

5 Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1) and turn the engine ovei until the rotor is pointing toward the number one spark plug terminal (see the locating TDC procedure in Chapter 2).

6 Make a mark on the edge of the distributor base directly below the rotor tip and in line with it (see illustration). Also, mark the distributor base and the engine block to ensure that the distributor

(see illustration). is installed correctly

7 Remove the distributor hold-down nut and washer, then pull the distributor straight out to remove it. Caution: DO NOT turn the crankshafts

7.5a To check the coil secondary resistance on an earlier type coil, touch one lead of the ohmmeter to one of the primary terminals and the other lead to the high-tension terminal (arrows), then compare your reading to the coil secondary resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications

7.5b Checking the coil secondary resistance on a later-type coil

(2.OL engine shown)

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

8.8a Before removing alignment mark the distributor, on the edge paint of the distributor or scribe base an directly beneath the rotor tip - DO NOT use a lead pencil while thedistributorisoutoftheengine, less. orthealignmentmarks

8 Detach the primary wiring from the distributor. willbeuse-

Ins talla tion

Note: If the crankshaft

’ numberonepiston has been moved must be repositionedat while the distributor is out, the

TDC. This can be done byfeel- ing for compression pressure at the number one plug hole as the crankshaft is turned. Once compression drivebelt pulley and the timing cover. is feelt, align the TDC marks on the

9 Insert the distributor into the engine in exactly the same relationship to the block that it was in when removed.

10 To mesh the helical gears on the camshaft and the distributor, it may be necessary to turn the rotor slightly. Recheck the alignment marks between the distributor base and the block to verify that the distributor is in the same position it was in before removal. Also check the rotorto see if it’s aligned with the mark you made on the edge of the distributor base.

11 Loosely install the nut.

12 Reconnect the electrical leads.

13 Install the distributor cap.

8.8b Also paint an alignment distributor base to ensure the correct mark on the engine timing and the after the distributor is installed

14 Reattach the vacuum line(s) to the advance unit (if equipped).

15 Reattach the spark plug wires to the plugs (if removed).

16 Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery.

17 Check the ignition timing (see Chapter 1) and tighten the distributor hold-down nut securely.

9 Centrifugal advance assembly - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 9.7a, 9.76, 9.7c, 9.7d, and 9.7e

1 Detach the vacuum line(s) from vacuum advanoe unit on thedistribu- tor and plug them.

2 Connect a timing light according to it’s manufacturer’s instructions.

3 Start the engine.

4 While watching the timing marks with the use ofthe timing light, raise the engine speed while watching the timing marks advance.

5 ,The timing should advance smoothly.

6 If the timing does not advance smoothly, check the advance weights, springs and plate for damage or binding.

7 Replace parts as needed (see illustrations).

9.7a An exploded distributor view of the on 1983 models

Cap

2 Contact carbon

3 Rotor assembly

4 Centrifugal advance spring

5 Centrifugal advance plate

6 Centrifugal advance weight

7 Centrifugal advance base

8 Reluctor

9 Pick-up coil

10 Breaker plate

11 Plate

12 Vacuum control unit

13 E-ring

14 Washer

15 Shaft

16 Ball bearing

17 Oil seal

18 Housing

19 Oilseal

20 O-ring

Spring pin

Drive gear

5-6 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

6

9.7b An exploded view of the distributor on 1989 and later 2.4L engines

1 Distributor cap

2 Packing

3 Contact carbon

4 Rotor

5 Lead wire

6 O-rings

7 Housing and crank angle sensor assembly

1 Breather

2-P

3 Contact carbon

4 Rotor

5 Cable assembly

6 Groundwire

9.7~ An exploded view of the distributor on 1984 through 1989 models (Mitsubishi type)

Igniter

Dowel pin

9 Signal rotor

10 Advance plate

Vacuum advance unit

(dual-diaphragm type)

Vacuum advance unit

(single-diaphragm type)

7 3 Rotor shaft

14 Spring retainers

15 Centr#ugal advance springs

Centrifugal advance weights

Distributor shaft

18 Oil seal

19 Packing

20 Housing

21 O-ring

22 Washer

23 Driven gear

24 Pin

3

‘\ \

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-7

9.7d An exploded view of the distributor on 1989 and later 3.OL engines

1 Distributor cap

2 O-ring

3 Contact carbon

4 Rotor

5 O-ring - *

6 Distributor housing assembly

Pickup coil

Dust-proof cover for signal generator

\ \

Dust-proof cover for igniter

Vacuum advance unit

. .

Centrifugal advance springs

Signal rotor’shaft assembly Packing

9.7e An exploded view of the distributor on 1986 through 1989 models (Nippondenso type) i- ,

5-8 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

10.1 Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of the pick-up coil

10.7 Set-up for checking the igniter on 1983 distributors

10.18 Depending on the year and model of the vehicle, the pick-up coil can be checked either in the distributor or removed.

TO Distributor electronic components -check and replacement

(T93Ljhrough 1989 models only) f 983

mod&

Pick-up coil check and replacement

Ftefer to illustration IO. I

1 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the pick-up coil (see

Iflustration). Compare the measured resistance to the Specifications fisted in this Chapter. If the resistance coil with is not correct, replace the pick-up a new unit. Note: The resistance of the pick-up coil can be measured with the pick-up co0 installed in the distributor.

2 To remove the pick-up coil, remove the two mounting screws (see lustration 9.7a) and lift the rotor off the governor assembly.

3 Remove the bolt from the shaft and pull off the governor assembly.

Note: Before thegovernorweightsandspringsare removed, make marks il- on the pins and springs for reference

-springs very carefully to avoid any on assembly. deformation

Also, which handle could the cause changes rii ffie advance characteristics.

4 Remove the screws attaching the pick-up coil to the distributor. The coil and cap gasket can now be lifted out.

Igniter check and replacement

Refer to illustration 10.7

5 Follow the procedure in Steps 2 through 4 and remove the igniter. Re- fer to illustration 9.7a if problems are encountered. .

6 Be sure to mark the relationship between the drive gear and distributor shaft before driving out the roll pin.

7 The igniter (control unit) can be checked as follows. Connect jumper wires from the battery and a 1 Z-volt test light to the igniter terminals (see illustration).

8 Connect an ohmmeter or small dry cell to the remaining terminals as shown (this will apply a small signal to the igniter).

9 Ifthetestlightglowswhenthesignalisappliedand~oesoutwhenitis removed, the igniter is apparently working properly. If not, it is defective.

Note: Even if the testresults are as specified, the igniter maybe defective.

10 When reassembling the distributor, be sure to align the mating marks on the gear and shaft before installing the roll pin.

11 The air gap between the signal rotor and pick-up coil must be adjusted after the distributor is reassembled (see Section 11).

f 984 through f 989 Mitsubishi type

12 The pick-up coil can be checked as follows. Disconnect connectors from the coil. Connect an ohmmeter to the electrica the electrical termin& and check the resistance.

13 The resistance should be within the range listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. If the test results are not within this range, replace the pick- up coil with a new unit.

14 To remove the pick-up coil, follow the procedure in Steps 3 through 6, but note that later model distributors differ in certain details. Refer to illustration 9.7c if problems are encountered.

15 Theairgapbetween thesignal rotorandpfck-upcoil mustbeadjusfed after the distributor is reassembled (see Section 11).

1386 through 1989 Nippondenso type (AWL engine)

Refer to illustration 10.18

16 Follow the procedure in Step 2 and remove the igniter (control unit), but note that later model distributors differ in certain details. Refer to illustration 9.7d if problems are encountered.

17 On most models, the distributor cap and rotor must be removed before the igniter can be removed.

18 The igniter (control unit) can be checked as follows: Connect an ohmmeter to the electrical terminals (see illustration) and check the resistance.

19 The resistance should be 140 to 180 ohms.

20 Reinstall the distributor cap and rotor.

21 The air gap between the srgnal rotor and pick-up coil must be adjusted after the distributor is reassembled (see Section 11).

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

SCREWDRIVER

SCREW

PHOT

SENSI

10.24 To get at the photo-optic sensing unit on a 3.OL distributor,‘remove these two screws (arrows) and this protective cover

PHOTO’

SENSING UNIT \

10.25 Remove the screw (arrow) from the spacer and remove the spacer

HIGH DATA RATE

SLOTS

UPPER AND LOWER

SPACERS

LOW DATA RATE

SLOTS

10.26a Carefully remove the upper disk spacer, the disk and the lower disk spacer (underneath the disk, not visible in this illustration)

Photo-optic sensing unit (3.01 engine)

Refer to illustrations 10.24, 10.25;10.26a, IO.266 and 10.28

22 Remove the distributor (see Section 8).

23 Remove the rotor (see Chapter I).,

24 Remove the protective cover from the distributor housing tration).

25 Remove the screw from the spacer

(see illus-

(see illustration) and remove the spacer.

26 Carefully remove the upper disk spacer, the disk and the lower disk spacer (see illustration). Note: The disk and spacers are keyed to ensure proper reassembly (see illustration).

27 Check the disk for warpage, cracks or damaged slots. If any damage is evident, replace the disk.

28 Remove the bushing from the photo-optic three screws from the sensing unit sensing unit, remove the

(see illustration) and remove the sensing unit.

29 Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

30 Install the distributor (see Section 8) and install the rotor and cap (see

Chapter 1).

10.26b Note how the upper and lower disk spacers and the disk itself are keyed to prevent incorrect reassembly

10.28 Remove the bushing (arrow) from the photo-optic SenSing

unit, remove these three screws (arrows) and remove the

photo-optic sensing unit

5-9

‘ACER

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

11.2 To adjust the air gap between the pick-up and the signal rotor, loosen the pick-up mounting screws, insert a feeler gauge of the specified thickness between the pick-up and one of the signal rotor projections, push the pick-up against the gauge and tighten the mounting screws

12.8 . . . then tilt it down, detach it from the pin (arrow) on the breaker base and pull it out

Ii Distributor pick-up air gap -check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 11.2

Note: This procedure does not apply to 1990 and later 2.41 four-cylinder and 3.OL V6 engines.

1 Anytime you disturb the pick-up air gap in the distributor it must be properly adjusted.

2 Loosen the pick-up mounting screws. Place a feeler gauge of the thicknesslistedin this Chapter’s Specifications between one of the projections on the signal rotor and the pick-up (see illustration).

3 Gently push the pick-up toward the signal rotor until it’s a snug -not fight - fit against the feeler gauge.

4 Tighten the pick-up mounting screws.

5 Check the adjustment by noting the amount of drag on the feeler gauge when you pull it out.of the gap between the signal rotor and the pick- up. You should feel a slight amount of drag. If you feel excessive drag on the gaugerthe gap is probably too small. If you don’t feel any drag on the gauge when you pull it out, the air gap is too large.

12 Vacuum advance unit - check and replacement

Check

1

Remove the vacuum line from the vacuum advance unit and plug the line. If there are two lines, disconnect and plug the outer (furthest from the distributor) line.

2 Connect a timing light to the vehicle.

.d. :

12.7 To detach the vacuum unit from the distributor two screws (arrows) . . . remove the

3 Attach a vacuum pump to the advance unit.

4 With the engine running, gradually apply vacuum to the advance unit while watching the timing marks with the timing light.

5 The timing should gradually advance. If it doesn’t advance, but the unit holds vacuum, the advance plate in the distributor is binding. If it doesn’t advance, and the unit does not hold vacuum,. replace the unii.

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 72.7 and 12.8

6 Remove the distributor cap and rotor (see Chapter 1).

7 Remove the vacuum unit mounting screws (see illustration).

8 Remove the vacuum unit link from the pin on the breaker base, then detach the vacuum unit (see illustration).

9 Installation IS the reverse of removal.

13 Charging system - general information and precautions

The charging system includes the alternator, with an integral volfage regulator, the battery, the fusible link(s) and wiring between all the components. The charging system supplies electrical power for the ignition system, the lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by a drivebelt at the front of the engine.

The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value. This prevents power surges, circuit overloads, etc., during peak voltage output.

The fusible link can be either a short length of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness or a fuse-like device installed in the underhood electrical panel. See Chapter 12 for additional information regarding fusible links.

The charging system doesn’t ordinarily require periodic maintenance.

However, the drivebelt, battery and wires and connections spected at the intervals outlined in Chapter 1. should be in-

The dashboard warning light should come on when the ignition key is turned to Start, then go off immediately. If it remains on, there is a malfunction in the charging system (see Section 14).

Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections equipped with an alternator and note the following: to a vehicle

4

When reconnecting wires to the alternator from the battery, be-sure to note the polarity.

t-4

Before using arc welding equipment to repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect the wires from the alternator and the battery terminals

d

4

Never start the engine with a battery charger connected.

Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger.

e)

The alternator is turned by an engine drivebelt which could cause serious injury if your hands, hair or clothes become entangTed in it with the engine running.

f)

Because the alternator is connected directly to the battery, if could arc or cause a fire if overloaded or shorted out. g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator and secure it with rubber- bands before steam cleaning the engine.

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

3.OL Engine

3\ L----h ,l

15.3 Loosen the adjustment bolt (arrow) and the pivot bolts to remove the drivebelt from the alternator pulley

14 Charging system- check

6.

1 If a malfunction occurs in the charging circuit, don’t automatically assume that the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items:

a)

Check the drivebelt tension and condition (Chapter 1). Replace it if it’s worn or deteriorated.

b)

4

Make sure the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts are tight.

Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the connectors at the alternator. They must be in good condition and tight.

4

Check the fusible link(s). If burned, determine the cause, repairthe circuit and replace the link(thevehicle won’tstartand/ortheacces- sories won’t work if the fusible link blows). Sometimes a fusible link may lookgood, but still be bad. If in doubt, remove it and check for

‘4

continuity.

Start the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises (a shrieking or squealing sound indicates a bad bearing).

f 1

Check the,specific gravity of the battery electrolyte. charge the battery (doesn’t apply to maintenance

If it’s low, free batteries).

9)

Make sure the battery is fully charged (one bad cell in a battery chin cau>e overcharging by the alternator).

h)

Disconnect the battery-cables (negative first, then positive). In- spect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the cable

i)

to the positive terminal.

With the key off, connect a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.

1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.

2) If the test light comes on, !here is ashort (drain) in the eledtrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.

3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.

(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.

(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out

(this will tell you which component is shorted).

2” Using a voltmeter, check the battery vpltage with the engine off. If should be approximately 12-volts.

3 Start the engine and check the batt&y voltage again. It should now be approximately 14-to-15 volts.

4 Turn on the headlights. The voltage should drop, and then come back up, if,the charging system is working properly.

5 If the voltage reading is more than the specified charging voltage, replace the voltage regulator (refer to Section 16). If the voltage is less, the alternator diode(s), stator or rectifier may be bad or the voltage regulator may be malfunctioning.

2.4L Engine

15.4a An exploded view of the mounting hardware for a typical 2.4L and 3.OL alternator installation

I Alternator adjustment

2 Alternator cover

3 Alternator brace bolt bolt 4 Alternator drive belt

5 Alternator support bolt

6 Alternator

15 Alternator - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 15.3, 15.4a and 15.4b

1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2 Detach the electrical connector(s) from the alternator. Be sure to label each wire to avoid confusion during installation.

3 Loosen the alternator adjustment vebelt (see illustration). and pivot bolts and detach the dri-

4 Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts and separate the alternator from the engine (see illustrations).

5-12

2.OL engine

Vehicles without an air-conditioner

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

2.6L engine

Vehicles with an air condtioner n

-CA

15.4b An exploded view of the mounting hardware for a typical 2.OL and 2.6L alternator installation

1 Alternator connectors

2 Automatic transmission cooler hoses oil

3 Adjustment ho/t

4 Spacer

5 Adjusting bolt

6 Tension plate

7 Support plate

8 Alternator

16 Voltage regulator/alternator brushes - replacement

16.2 To detach the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly, remove the two mounting screws (arrows) and pull the regulator/brush holder straight out

5 If you’re replacing the alternator, take the old one with you when purchasing a replacement unit. Make sure the new/rebuilt unit looks identical to the old alternator. Look at the terminals -they should be the same in number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at the identification numbers -they will be stamped into the housing or printed on atag attached to the housing. Make sure the numbers are the same on both alternators.

6 Many new/rebuilt alternators DO NOT have a pulley installed, so you may have to switch the pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt one.

When buying an alternator, find out the shop’s policy regarding pulleys - come shops will perform this service free of charge.

7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

8 ARertheaiternatorisinstalled,adjustthedrivebelttension (seechapter 1).

9 Check the charging voltage to verify proper operation of the alternator

(see Section 14).

Bosch type

Refer to illustrations 16.2, 16.3 and 16.4

Note: If you are replacing the brushes (but not the regulator itself), the fof- lowing procedure requires that you unsolder the old brush leads from the regulatorand solder the new ones into place. Unless you are skrKvd with a soldering gun, have this procedure performed by someone who is. If you overheatanddamage theregulator, you couldendupspendinga lotmore money than necessary

I Remove the alternator (see Section 15).

2 Remove the voltage regulator mounting screws (see illustration).

3 Remove the regulator/brush holder assembly and measure the length of the brushes (see illustration). If they are less than 3/16-inch long, replace them with new ones. Note: lf you’re simpfy rep/acing the voltage regulator, skip the next step - the new regulator assembly includes a new set of brushes so the following step is unnecessary

4 Unsolderthe brush wiringconnections(eeeillustration)andremove the brushes and springs.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to solder the new brush leads properly.

Melt20 type

Refertoitlustrations and 16.14

16.1Oa, l&lob, 16.11, 16,12a, 76.12b, 16.13

6 Remove the alternator (see Section 15).

7 Remove the bolts retaining the two halves of the alternator together.

8 Mount the front of fhe alternator face down in a vise. Using rags as a cushion, clamp to the front case portion of the alternator.

9 Remove all nuts from the back of the alternator.

10 Using a 200-watt soldering iron, heat the rear bearing area (bearing box) of the rear case (see illustration). Insert two standard screwdrivers carefully between the two halves of the alternator (not too deep or you will damage the stator) and pry the rear case off the alternator (see illustration).Caution: Pry gent/y or you’ll break the delicate aluminum case.

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-13

16.3 Measure the brushes with a small ruler-if they’re shorter than 3/16 of an inch, install new ones

16.4 To detach worn brushes from the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly, carefully unsolder the brush leads and extract each brush and lead from the holder

(2OOW capacity)

16.10a Heating the rear bearing box of the alternator will make splitting the alternator easier

16.10b Use two screwdrivers to split the alternator

1 Alternator pulley

2 Seal

3 Rotor assembly

4 Rear bearing

5 Bearing retainer exploded view of the Melco type alternator

7 Front bracket

8 Stator

9 Terminal

IO Plate

11 Regulator and

12 Brush

13 Brush spring

14 Slinger (if equipped)

15 Rectifier

16 Rearbrackef

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

Sol&red

Ltrn~i line

16.12a If the brushes

Wear limit line are worn past the wear limit line, they should be replaced

16.12b If the brushes are being replaced, unsolder the pigtails at the area shown and solder

16.13 When installing new brushes, they should extend out of the holder the proper amount

11 Unsolder the regulator/brush holder (see illustration). Note: While applying heat to electrical components, needle-nosepliers it’s a good as a heat sink. Don ‘tapply idea to use a parr ot heat for more than about We seconds.

12 Inspect the brushes for excessive wear (see illustration) and re-

: place them if necessary by unsoldering (see illustration).

13 When installing new brushes. solder the pigtails sothe brush llmlt line

= will be about 0.079 to 0.118 inch above the end of the brush holder (see illustration).

14 To reassemble. compress the brushes into their holder and retarn them with a straight piece of wire that can be pulled from the back ot the alternator when reassembled (see illustration).

15 To reassemble, reverse disassembly procedure.

17 Starting system-general information and precautions

The sole function of the starting system Is to turn over the engine quack- ly enough to aTTow it to start.

The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid and the wires connecting them. The solenoid is mounted dl- rectly on the starter motor.

The solenoid/starter motor assembly is installed on the transmlsslon bellhousing.

When the ignition key is turned to the Start position, the starter solenoid is actuated through the starter control clrcult. The starter solenoid then connects the battery to the starter. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the startermotor, which does the actual work of cranking the engine.

16.14 When placing the two covers together, use a piece of wire through the rear case and into the brush holder to retain the brushes in the holder

Always observe the following precautions ino system: when working on the start- ai Excekslve cranking of the starter motor can overheat It and cause venous aama$e. Never operate the starter motor for more than 3d secollds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two minutes.

0) The starter is connected directly to cause a iire of mishandled, overloaded the battery and could arc or or shorted out. cj Always detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before working on the starttng system.

16 Starter motor - in-vehicle check

Note: Before diagnosing charged. starterproblems, make sure the battery IS tully

1 If the starter motor dOeS not turn at all when the switch IS operated, makesure that the shitt!ever

IS in Neutral or Park [automatic transmissionj or that the clutch pedal IS depressed (manual transmission).

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-15

20.3 To separate the solenoid from the starter motor, remove the nut and detach the lead (arrow). . .

19.3 Typical mounting

I Air cleaner housing

2 Electrical connections details for the starter motor

3 Starter motor

2 Make sure that the battery is charged and that all cables, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are clean and secure.

3 If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrun- ning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the stater motor must be replaced.

4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).

5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (the circuit is open) or the solenoid itself is defective.

6 To check the solenoid connect a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the ignition switch wire terminal (the small terminal) on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK and the problem is in the ignition switch, neutral start switch or the wiring. I

7 If the starter motor still does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for disassembly,

8 If the starter motor testing and repair. cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, first make sure that the battery is charged and that all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly.

9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Dis- connect the coil wire from the distributor cap and ground it on the engine.

10 Connectavoltmeter positive lead to the positive battery post and connect the negative lead to the negative post.

11 Cranktheengineandtakethevoltmeterreadingsassoonasasteady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 volts or more but the cranking speed is slo, the solenoid contacts are burned, there is a bad connection or the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the starter motor is charged. bad or, the battery is dis-

20.4 . . . then remove the solenoid mounting and fxrll the solenoid straight off the starter screws flange

(arrows)

19 Starter motor - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 19.3

1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2 Clearly label, then disconnect the wires from the terminals

’ on the starter solenoid.

3 Removethemounting bolts(seeillustration)andremovethestarter.

4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

20 Starter motor/solenoid/gear assembly - replacement reduction

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2 Remove the starter motor (see Section 19).

Direct drive type .

Refer to illustrations 20.3, 20.4 and 20.5

3 Remove the field terminal nut, disconnect the field terminal lead and remove the washer (see illustration).

4 Remove the solenoid mounting screws (see illustration).

5-16 Char>ter 5 Enaine electrical systems

20.5 Direct drive starter motor components

1 Mounting screw

2 Solenoid

3 Packing iz 4 Plate

-5

Screw

6 Through bolt

I I

Rear bracket

Rear bearing

Brush holder assembly

Housing

Armature

12 Lever

13 Washer

I4 Snap ring

15 Stop ring

16 Over running clutch

I? Front bracket

Solenoid “M” terminal

I

’

I

20.7 Disconnect the field coil wire from terminal M 20.8a Remove the through bolts from the starter housing

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 5-17

I Mounting screw

2 Solenoid

3 Screw

4 Screw

5 Rear bracket

6 Brush holder

20.8b Gear reduction starter motor components (later model shown)

7 Brush

8 Rear bearing

9 Armature

70 Housing

11 Ball

12 Packing A

13 Packing B

14 Plate

15 Planetary gear

16 Lever

I7 Snap-ring

18 Stop ring

19 Over running clutch

Integral

Planetary gear gear holder

22 Front bracket

5-18 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5 Work the solenoid off the shift fork and detach it from the drive end housing (see illustration).

6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Gear reduction type

Refer to illustrations 20.7,20.8a, 20.8b and 20.9

7 If you’re replacing the starter motor or solenoid, disconnect coil wire from the solenoid terminal the field

(see illustration): if you’re replacing the gear reduction assembly, skip this step and proceed to the next step.

8 To detach the starter motor from the gear reduction assembly, simply remove the two long through-bolts tions). and pull off the starter (see illustra-

9 To detach the solenoid from the gear reduction assembly, remove the starter, then remove the two Phillips screws from the gear reduction assembly and pull off the solenoid (see illustration).

10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

20.9 Remove the screws to separate the solenoid from the gear reduction assembly

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Contents

Accelerator cable - replacement and adjustment’

Accelerator linkage check and lubrication ..........

Air cleaner assembly - removal and installation

Air filter replacement ..........................

Air intake plenum - removal and installation

.............

..............

.................

See Chapter 1

Carburetor (30-32 DIDTA/32-35 DIDTA)

(1979 through 1984 non-FBC models) - overhaul

Carburetor (30-32 DIDTA/32-35 DIDTA)

(1979 through 1984 non-FBC models) -adjustments

Carburetor choke check ........................

Carburetor - servicing ..................................

Carburetor

...........

(FBC) (1985 and 1986 models) -adjustments

(FBC) (1987 through 1989 models) - adjustments

........ 13

See Chapter 1

......

...

Carburetor

Carburetor/fuel injection throttle body mounting nut/bolttorque check .................

Carburetor

(FBC) (1985 and 1988 models) - overhaul

(FBC) (1987 through 1989 models) - overhaul

.........

......

--removal and installation ......................

See Chapter

Exhaust system check ......................... See Chapter 1

Exhaust system servicing - general information

Fuel filter replacement .........................

Fuel injection system - check ............................

Fuel injector(s) -check, removal and installation

Fuel hoses and vapor separator - replacement

Fuel pressure regulator - removal and installation

Fuel pressure relief procedure (fuel-injected models)

Fuel pump/fuel pressure -check ..........................

..............

............

..........

.............

...............

See Chapter 1

Fuel pump - removal and installation .......................

Fuel rail assembly - removal and installation .................

Fuel system check ............................

Fuel tank cleaning

Fuel tank - removal and repair - general and installation information

........................

See Chapter 1

........... 6

General information ....................................

Idle Speed

Multi-Point

Control

Injection

(ISC) servo-check

(MPI) - general and replacement information ..............

Thermostatic air cleaner check (carbureted

Throttle body - removal and installation models)

.....................

.......

. . See Chapter 1

Specifications

Accelerator cable freeplay

Carbureted

Fuel-injected engines engines

2.4L engine

Manual transmission

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Automatic transmission

3.OLengine

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . ..-...................................

Fuel pressure

Carbureted models _ . . _ _ _ . . . . _ . _ . _ . _ . _ _ _ _ _ _ . _ . . . . _ . . . . .

Fuel-injected models

Vacuum hose connected

Vacuum hose disconnected to pressure regulator from regulator

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.00 to 0.04 inch

0.04 to 0.08 inch

0.12 to 0.20 inch

0.04 to 0.08 inch

4.6 to 6 psi

38 psi at curb idle

47 to 53 psi at curb idle

. . _f

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Fuel injector resistance ...........................

13to16ohms

Idle speed

1983 and 1984 models

Federal

2.OL engine

Five-speed

Automatic manual transmission and four-speed

.................... manual transmission

2.6L engine

Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

1983 and 1984 models

California

.............................

...........................

2.OLengine

2.6L engine

.......................................

Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

.............................

...........................

Canada

2.OLengine

2.6Lengine

.......................................

1985 and 1986 models

Federal and California

2.OLengine

2.6L engine

.......................................

Manual transmission .............................

Automatic transmission

Canada

Manual

Automatic transmission transmission

...........................

....................

.............................

1987 through 1989 models

2.OLengine .......................................

2.6Lengine .......................................

1990 and later models

2.4Lengine ........................................

3.OLengine ........................................

........

..........

Idle-up (throttle opener) engine speed

(carbureted air-conditioned models) ..........

Float level (1986 and earlier models) .............

Dashpot speed (1987 through 1989 models)

Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

...................................

.................................

Slow Cut Solenoid Valve (SCSV) resistance

(1987 through 1989 models) ....................

Fast idle opening

1985 and 1986 models

2.OL engine with manual transmission

2.OL engine with automatic transmission

2.6L engine with manual transmission

2.6L engine with automatic transmission

1987 models

Manual transmissbn

2.OLengine

2.6Lengine..

.......................................

...........................

Automatic transmission

2.OLengine .......................................

2.6Lengine .......................................

1988 models

Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

.................................

....................

.................... and

.....................

..................

.._ .......

..........

700f100rpm

750 f 1 OO- rpm

750 f 100 rpm

800 f 1 OO_rpm

750 f 1 MTrpm

750~lOOrpm

800 f 100 rpm

850 f 50 rpm

750 f 100 rpm

750*lOOrpm

800&1OOrpm

750 f 50 ~rpm

800 f 50 rpm

750 f 100 rpm

800rtlOOrpm

750 f 50 rpm

700 f 50 rpm

850 to 950 rpm

0.787 in & 0.0394 in

2000 rpm

1500 rpm

48 to 60 ohms

0.025 inch

0.028 inch

0.031 inch

0.0394 inch

0.0476 inch

0.0433 inch

0.0520 inch

0.031 inch

0.035 inch

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Fast idle opening (continued)

1989 models

Manual transmission

2.OLengine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.6Lengine . . . . ..__r._...._........_..........__..

Automatic transmission

2.OL engine . . . . . . . . . . . . .._.............._.*.......

2.6Lengine . . . .._...r...._._......._._......_.__._

0.025 inch

0.031 inch

0.028 inch

0.035 inch

Choke valve-to-choke bore clearance (1987 through 1989 models)

Unloaderopening

Choke breaker

1987 models

First stage

2.OLengine

......................................

2.6Lengine

Second stage

2.OLengine

2.6Lengine

1988 models

Firststage

Secondstage

....................................

...........................

....................................

........................................

.....................................

1989 models

First stage

2.OLengine

2.6Lengine

Second stage

2.OLengine

2.6Lengine

.....................................

. ........

0.075 to 0.083 inch

0.087 to 0.094 inch

0.098 to 0.106 inch

0.114 to 0.122 inch

0.126 to 0.133 inch

0.091 to 0.098 inch

0.118 to 0.126 inch

0.079 to 0.087 inch

0.091 to 0.098 inch

0.114 to 0.122 inch

0.118 to 0.126 inch

Idle Speed Control (ISC) servo coil resistance

2.4Lengine

3.OLengine

..... .._._..._..._

..........................................

........................

Torque specifications

Carburetor mounting bolts/nuts ............................

Throttle body mounting nuts

19913.OLengine

Allothers

........

...........................................

..__...._........__.__..___~

Idle Speed Control (ISC) servo mounting screws

Air intake plenum mounting bolts ..........................

Fuel high-pressure hose attaching bolts ....................

Fuel pressure regulator mounting bolts .....................

.............

5 to 35 ohms

28 to 33 ohms

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

132 to 168 in-lbs

84 to 108 in-lbs

11 to 16

22 to 38 in-lbs

11 to 14

12 to 24 in-lbs

60 to 96 in-lbs

4-3

1 General information

Fuel system

The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, a mechanical or electric fuel ’ pump, an air cleaner, either a carburetor or a fuel injection system and the hoses and lines which connect these components.

All 1983 through 1988 and some 1989 models*are carbureted. These models have a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the cylinder head. The pump is driven by an eccentric on the camshaft. Beginning in 1985, carburetors began being equipped with Feedback Control (FBC) systems which utilize sensors and solenoid actuators, controlled by the engine’s electronic control module, to control emissions.

Some 1989 and all 1990 and later models are fuel-injected. A multi- point (one injector per cylinder) Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system is used on both 3.OL and 2.4L engines. All fuel-injected models use an in- tank electric’fuel pump. refer to Section 18.

For more information regarding the EFI system,

Exhaust system

The exhaust system consists of the exhaust manifold(s), exhaust pipes, catalytic converter and muffler. For information moval and installation of the exhaust manifold(s), regarding refer to Chapter the re-

2, Part

A. For information regarding exhaust system and catalytic converter servicing, refer to the last Section in this Chapter. For further information regarding the catalytic converter, refer to Chapter 6.

Refer to illustration 2. I

1 Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump harness at the rear side of the fuel tank (see illustration).

2 Start the engine, let it run until it stalls and turn off the ignition switch.

3 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery and re-connect it after repairs are complete.

Fuel pressure

Fuel*pump/fuel relief procedure pressure-check

(fuel-injected models)

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open f@mes or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage wherea naturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterh&terorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

2.1 The electrical connector (arrow) for the fuel pump harness located on the rear side of the fuel tank is 3.11a The check connector for the fuel pump (located on the rear side of the fuse block) (1990 pick-up models) immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Carbureted models

1 Before deciding that the fuel pump is defective, it should be tested for correct pressure while still in the vehicle.

2 To check the fuel pump pressure, you will need a ‘T’ fitting, a length of hose (with the same inside diameter as the fuel hoses), a fuel pressure gauge and a tachometer.

3 Loosen the hose clamp and pull the fuel hose off the fuel pump outlet fitting. Insert one end of the ‘T’fitting into the hose that was disconnected from the pump and tighten the hose clamp. Cut a short length of hose, slip one end over the ‘T’ fitting and the other end onto the fuel pump outlet fitting.

4 Connect another length of hose (approximately six inches long) between the fuel pressure gauge and the remaining end of the ‘T’ fitting. In- stall hose clamps on all the connections.

5 Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the fuel return hose, which returns fuel to the fuel tank from the carburetor. Slip a short length of hose, which has been plugged, onto the fitting and install the hose clamp.

6 Connect manufacturer. the tachometer according to the instructions provided by the

7 Starttheengineandallow itto runforafew momentsbeforetakingthe pressure reading. This will allow any air in the pump to be vented, which will ensure an accurate reading.

8 Make sure the engine idle speed is correct, then note the pressure reading on the gauge and compare it to this Chapter’s Specifications.

9 Stop the engine and observe the gauge. The pressure should remain constant or return to zero slowly.

10 If the pressure was higher or lower than specified, or if it dropped to zero instantly when the engine was shut off, the fuel pump is defective and should be replaced with a new one.

Fuel-injected models

Fuel pump check (2.4L models only)

Refer to illustrations 3.1 la, 3.1 lb, 3. Ilc and 3. lld

11 Turn the ignition switch to Off, open the fuel tank filler cap, apply battery voltage directly to the check connector for the fuel pump (see illustrations) and listen for the whirring sound of the electric pump through the filler port. Now squeeze the fuel high-pressure hose-you should be able to feel pressure in the hose. If you cannot hear whirring, the fuel pump or its circuit is defective. If you can hear whirring. but pressure does not develop in the fuel high-pressure hose, the fuel pump is defective.

Fuel pressure check

Refer to illustrations

3.1 Bb, 3.22 and 3.23

3.13a, 3.13b, 3.14a, 3.14b, 3.18a,

12 Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2), detach the cable from the negative battery terminal and reconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.

13 Disconnectthe trations). Cover fuel high-pressure the connection hose at thedelivery pipe (see illus- with shop rags to absorb any fuel that leaks out.

14 Attach your fuel pressure gauge (it must have a range through 50 psi) to the special adapter (MD998700 or equivalent) as shown (see illustration). On 3.OL models, attach the special hose (MD998753 to the adapter as shown (see illustration).

15 Attach the gauge with adapter to the fuel delivery pipe.

16 Reconnect the battery terminal. or equivalent)

3.11 b The check connector for the fuel pump

(located on the right side of the engine compartment) (1991 and later pick-up models)

3.11~ Fuel pump driving terminal

(check connector) location on 1989 and

1990 Montero models

3.11d The check connector on 1991 and later Montero models is located at the right center of the engine firewal

Chabter 4 Fuel and exhaust svstems

Fuel pressure

.-----gauge

O-ring or gasket

MD998700

3.13a To disconnect the fuel high-pressure hose flange from a 2.4L engine, remove these two bolts (arrows)

3.13b To disconnect the fuel high-pressure hose flange from a 3.OL engine, remove these two bolts (arrow)

3.14a To measure the fuel pressure on a fuel-injected engine, attach a fuel pressure gauge to the special adapter

(MD998700 or equivalent) - be sure to seal the two parts with an O-ring or gasket as shown

MD998700

/ I

3.14b On 3.OL engines, you’ll also need to attach a special hose (MD998753 or equivalent) to the adapter as shown - be sure to seal both hose flanges with

O-rings or gaskets as shown

3.18a Fuel pressure regulator/vacuum hose (2.4L engine) (arrow)

3.18b Fuel pressure regulator/vacuum hose (3.OL engine) (arrow)

Symptom

Fuel pressure is lower than standard value

Probable cause

Clogged fuel strainer

Faulty pressure regulator

Fuel pressure is higher than standard value

Faulty fuel pump

Faulty pressure regulator

Fuel pressure does not vary even if the vacuum hose is conoected

Clogged fuel return hose or pipe

Leakage. around vacuum hose

,Remedy

Replace fuel strainer

Replace pressure regulator

Replace fuel pump =

Replace pressure regulator

] Clean or replace hose or pipe

Replace the vacuum hose

3.22 Fuel pressure troubleshooting table for fuel-injected engines

4-6 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Fuel pressure drops slowly after engine is stopped

Faulty injector (leaks)

Fuel pressure drops sharply Faulty fuel pump immediately after engine is (pump inside check valve binding) stopped

Replace injector

Replace fuel pump

3.23 Fuel pressure drop troubleshooting table for fuel-injected engines

17 Apply battery voltage to the fuel pump check connector (see illustrations 3.11a, 3.11b and 3.11~) and activate the fuel pump. Make sure there’s no fuel leaking from the pressure gauge/adapter setup.

18 Start the engine and run it at curb idle speed, measure the fuel pressure with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator (see illustrations) and compare your reading to the pressure listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications.

19 Detach the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator, plug the hose, measure the fuel pressure again and compare this reading to the pressure listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

20 Race the engine two or three times in quick succession, then recheck the fuel pressure to verify it doesn’t fall when the engine runs at idle.

21 Gentlysqueezethefuelreturn hosewithyourfingerswhilerepeatedly racing the engine to verify fuel pressure in the return hose. If the volume of fuel flow is insufficient, there won’t be any fuel pressure in the return hose.

22 If the results of your readings aren’t within the specified values, use the accompanying table (see cause and make the necessary illustration) repairs. to determine the probable

23 Stop the engine and verify that the reading on the fuel pressure gauge doesn’t drop. If it does drop, note the rate of drop and use the accompanying table (see illustration) to determine the cause and make the necessary repairs.

24 Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2).

25 Coverthefuel high-pressure hoseconnection sorb leaking fuel, disconnect the fuel high-pressure gauge/adapter the high-pressure assembly, install

~@$J?JJ screws for the fuel high-pressure a new O-ring hose fitting and reconnect with ashoptowel hose, remove in the groove the hose. Tighten hose fitting to the torque toab- the fuel in the end of the attach- listed in this

,.+$%apter’s Specifications.

-$X5 Apply battery voltage to the fuel pump terminal, operate the pump and

.,.+feck the fuel high-pressure hose for leaks.

4 Fuel pump - removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage wherea naturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterheaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When youperform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety g/asses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Carbureted engines

Refer to illustration 4.6

1 The fuel pump is mounted on the cylinder head immediately in front of the carburetor. It is held in place with two nuts.

2 Pull the coil high-tension lead out of the distributor and ground iton the

’ engine block. Remove the spark plugs and place your thumb over the number one cylinder spark plug hole.

3 Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction (with a wrench on the large bolt attaching the pulley to the front of the crankshaft) feel the compression pressure rising in the number until you can one cylinder.

4 Continue rotating the crankshaft until the notch on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the ‘T’on the timing mark tab on the timing chain case.

At this point, the lift of the fuel pump drive cam is reduced to a minimum, which will make the pump easier to remove.

5 Install the spark plugs and hook up the wires. Do not forget the coil high-tension lead.

6 Loosen the hose clamps and remove the fuel hoses from the pump fittings (see illustration). Plug the ends of the hoses.

7 Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts and pull the pump off the engine. You may have to tap the pump body with a soft-faced break the gasket seal. hammer to

8 If the pump is difficultto remove, take off the valve cover (see Chapter

2) and guide the pump rocker arm out of the head from the inside.

9 Remove the insulator block and scrape off all traces of the old gaskets and sealer. Clean the mating surfaces on the head and inSulator blockwith lacquer thinner or acetone.

IO Before installing the new pump ensure and down without binding or sticking. that therocker arm moves up

11 Coat-both sides of the new gaskets with silicone-type before installation. gasket sealer

12 Slip the first gasket, the insulator block and the second gasket (in that order) onto the fuel pump mounting studs.

13 Install the fuel pump. It may be necessary to guide the rocker arm into place from inside the head. Work slowly; there is not much clearance between the rocker arm and the valve gear.

14 Once the fuel pump is properly seated, install the mounting nuts and tighten them evenly. Do notovertighten them or the insulator block may be cracked.

15 Install the valve cover if it was removed.

16 Install the hoses (after inspecting them for cracks) and the hose clamps.

17 Start the engine and check for fuel leaks at the hose fittings. Check for oil leaks where the fuel pump mounts on the cylinder head.

Fuel-injected engines

18 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 5).

19 Remove the six fuel pump retaining nuts and pull the pump assembly out of the fuel tank(see illustration 5.4b).

20 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure the gasket between the fuel pump assembly and the fuel tank is in good shape. If not, replace it.

21 Install the fuel tank (see Section 5).

5 Fuel tank - removal and installation

Refertoillustrations5.3.5.4a.5.4b,5.6. 5.7a. 5.7band5.8

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a naturalgas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safzty glasses and have a C/ass B type fire extinguisher on hand.

1 Before doing any work around the fuel tank, make sure that the ignition switch is off and remove the key from the ignition lock. Block the front

2.OL engine

Chapter

4 Fuel and exhaust systems

1

4-7

2.6L engine

4.6 An exploded view of the mechanical pumps used on 2.OL (upper) and 2.6L (lower) engines

I Air cleaner housing

2 Fuel hose

3 Fuelpump

4 Push rod

5 Gasket

6 Insulator

7 Gasket

3 -b

2 %I

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

5.3 Remove the drain plug to drain the fuel from the fuel tank l wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling, then raise the rear of the vehicle and set it on jack stands.

2 Remove the tank filler cap so any pressure in the tank can escape.

3 Position a suitable container (large enough to hold the fuel that it is in the tank) under the tank. Remove the drain plug (see illustration) and allow the fuel to drain into the container. Be very careful when working aroundgasoline; it is highly explosive. Afterthefuel hasdrainedcomplete- ly, reinstall the drain plug.

4 Loosen the hose clamps on the main, return and vapor fuel hoses, then pull the hoses off the tank (see illustrations).

5 Unplug the electrical wires from the fuel pump (fuel-injected models) and fuel level sending unit.

6 Remove the filler neckmud shield from the inside of the left rear wheel well. It is held in place with three bolts (see illustration).

7 Loosen the hose clamps on the filler connecting hose (large) and the breather hose (small) where they attach to the tank (see illustrations).

Pull the hoses off the tank. {Be careful not to damage them in the process).

8 Support the fuel tank, preferably with a portable jack and a block of wood. Remove the four mounting nuts (see illustration), carefully and move it out from under the vehicle. lower the tank

9 Check the tank interior for rust and corrosion. If the tank is not extremely corroded, it can be cleaned and reused. Special solvents made especially for cleaning fuel tanks are available. If you use one, be sure to follow the directions on the container. The inside of the tank is plated with zinc so be sure to use a cleaner that will not harm it in any way.

10 If the tank is severely corroded, replace it with a new one or a clean used one.

11 Look for evidence of leaks and cracks. If any are found, take the tank to a repair shop to have it fixed.

12 Inspect all fuel and breather hoses for cracks and deterioration.

Check all hose clamps for damage and proper operation.

13 Installation of the tank is basically the reverse of removal. Be sure to double check all hoses for proper routing. Also, if you have not already done so, be sure to tighten the drain plug securely.

14 Fill the tank with fuel and check for leaks. After the engine has been run, make a second were removed. check for leaks, particularly at the hose fittings that

1 Fuel tank

2 Fuel filler cap

3 Filler hose protector

4 Filler neck

5.4a An exploded view of a typical fuel tank (carbureted models)

5 Connecting hose

6 Separator tank (two pieces)

7 Fuel filter

8 Two- way valve

9 Check valve

IO Fuel gauge unit

11 Fuel main pipe

12 Soft vinyl tube

13 Fuel vapor pipe

14 Vapor hose

15 Vapor hose

16 Vapor hose

17 Vapor hose

18 Fuel return pipe

19 Soft vinyl tube

20 Breather hose

Standard body

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

5.4b An exploded

(iuel-injected view of typical mod&s)

1 Side skirt panel stay

2 Fuel gauge unit connector

3 Fuelpump connector

4 Main hose connection

5 Return hose connection

6 Vapor hose connection

7 Breather hose connection

8 Fuel filler hose connection

9 Fuel tank protector (4 WDj

10 Fuel tank mounting nut

11 Fuel tank

12 Overfill limiter (two-way valve)

13 Fuel pump assembly

14 Packing

15 Fuel gauge unit

16 Fuel filler cap

17 Filler neck cover

18 Reinforcement

19 Filler neck

20 PAeking

21 ei%etainer

22 Grommet

23 Check valve br

Long body and extended cab

4-10 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

5.6 Remove the filler neck mud shield 5.7a Filler connecting clamp location hose 5.7b Breather hose clamp location

5.8 Remove the four fuel tank mounting nuts while supporting the tank securely

7.2 Slide back the hose clamp and remove the snorkel tube (carbureted engines)

7.3 Pull off the crankcase hose (carbureted engines) breather

6 Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information

1 All repairs to the fuel tank or filler neck should be carried out by a professional who has experience in this critical and potentially dangerous work. Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes can remain and ignite during repair of the tank.

2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle, it shouldn’t be placed in an area where sparks oropen flames could ignite the fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially careful inside garages where a natural gas-type appliance is located, because the pilot light could cause an explosion.

7 Air cieaner assembly - removal and installation

1 The air cleaner assembly must be removed in order to perform many maintenance repair and adjustment procedures. It is very important to remove and instafl it carefully and correctly to ensure proper engine operation,

(farbureted engines

&fertoi//usfrafions7.2, 7.3, 7.4, 7.5, 7.7, 7.8aand7.8b

2 Remove the snorkel tube (connected between the aircleanerand headlight brace) from the air cleaner (see illustration). the

3 Pull off the crankcase breather hose (if equipped) from the front of the air cleaner housing (see illustration).

4 Remove the large hose leading to the secondary valve (see illustration). air supply system

5 Slide back the hose clamp and remove the hose that leads to the purge control valve from the air cleaner housing (see illustration).

6 Remove the top cover (it is held in place with four spring clips and a wing nut) and lift out the filter element.

7 Remove the two nuts, lock washers and flat washers attaching the air cleaner housing to the valve cover (see illustration).

8 Carefully lift up on the housing and disconnect the hot-air duct between the exhaust manifold and aircleaner housing (see illustration) and the vacuum hose leading to the air bleed valve in the housing. (The hose is color coded white) (see illustration).

9 Install the air cleaner by reversing the removal procedure. Be sure to line up the arrows on the top coverand the housing before setting the cover in place.

Fuel-injected engines

Refer to i//u.sfrafions 7.1 Oa and 7. lob

10 Remove the air intake hose (see illustrations).

11 Unplug the electrical connector for the air flow sensor assembly.

12 On 1991 and later models, remove the mounting nuts and remove the air flow sensor (on 1990 models, the air flow sensor is an integral part of the air cleaner housing mounted on the inside of the air cleaner cover).

13 Remove the air cleaner housing mounting bolts and remove the housing.

14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-11

7.4 Remove the large hose leading to the secondary air supply system reed valve (carbureted engines)

7.5 Remove the hose that leads to the purge control valve (carbureted engines)

7.7 Remove the two nuts, lock washers and flat washers (carbureted engines)

7.8a Disconnect the hot air duct (carbureted engines) 7.8b Remove the vacuum hose (carbureted engines)

7.10a An exploded view of the air cleaner assembly

(1990 fuel-injected models)

1 Breather hose (3.OL engine only)

2 Air intake hose

3 Air cleaner assembly

4 Air duct

5 Air cleaner cover

6 Air cleaner filter element

7 Air cleaner housing

8 Cover

9 Grommet

10 Air flow sensor’ assembly

11 Air Ilow sensorgasket

12 Noise reduction filter

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

7.10b An exploded view of the air cleaner assembly

(1991 and later fuel-injected models)

1 Air intake hose

2 Air duct

3 Air cleaner assembly

4 Air flow sensor assembly

5 Gasket

6 Air cleaner

7 Air cleaner element

8 Air cleaner housing

8.2 Detach this accelerator cable clamp from the valve cover to replace the cable - or loosen the screw and slide the clamp back and forth to adjust the cable

(earlier carbureted engines)

Accelerator cable - replacement and adjustment

Refer to illustrations 8.2. 8.3 and 8.4

Removal and installation

1 Remove the air cleaner housing (see Section 7).

2 On carbureted cover (see illustration) engines, loosen the cable clamp on top of the valve and detach the cable from the valve cover. On

3.OL engines, remove the two cable adjusting bolts from the air intake plenum and detach the cable from the plenum.

3 If the cable has a support bracket at the carburetor loosen the locknut from the bracket. at the bracket (see illustration) or throttle body, and detach the cable

4 Working inside the vehicle, under the dash, unhook the throttle return spring, pull outthecotterpinanddisconnecttheacceleratorcabiefr6r;i’the accelerator pedal assembly (see illustration).

8.3 Typical accelerator cable support bracket with locknut and adjusting carbureted engines nut arrangement and on 2.4L fuel-injected

(used on later engines)

5 Detach the cable guide fro& the firewall. Earlier guides are threaded into the firewall; later units are

6 Disconnect the cable from attached to the firewall the throttle lever with two bolts. at the carburetor throttle body and remove the cable.

7 Installation is the reverse of removal. or

Adjustment

8 To adjust the cable on carbureted engines, loosen the cable clamp on thevalvecover(earlierengines)orthelocknutatthecablesupport bracket

(later engines). Move the cable toward or away from the carburetor until there’s just eriough freeplay to allow the throttle valve to close freely when

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-13

8.4 An exploded view of a typical accelerator cable and pedal assembly

7 Accelerator

2 Return spring cable

3 Accebratorpedalstopper

4 Accelerator pedal assembly

5 Pedal pad the accelerator pedal is released, with a little bit of slack. Pull the cable

(clamp-type) or turn the adjustment nut (support bracket type) until the cable starts to lift the throttle lever off its stop, then let the cable come back slightly (clamp-type) or back off the adjustment nut one turn (support bracket type). To ensure the correct gap between the throttle lever and its

* stopper, insert a feeler gauge between the lever and the stopper. The correct gap is listed in this Chapter’s or support bracket locknut.

Specifications. Tighten the clamp bolts

9 Before adjusting the accelerator cable freeplay on fuel-injected engines, turn off the air conditioner and all lights, warm up the engine, verify the idle speed is correct (see Section 13, ‘I 5 or 17) stop the engine (ignition switch off) and make sure there are no sharp bends in the accelerator cable. Then, before checking the cable freeplay, turn the ignition switch to

On (with the engine stopped) and keep it in that position for 15 seconds.

This 15-second key-on/engine off interval fully extends the probe for the idle speed control actuator.

10 The cable on 2.4L fuel-injected engines is adjusted basically the same way as later carbureted engines with a support bracket, locknut and adjustment nut. The cable on 3.OL fuel-injected engines is adjusted basi- callythesamewayasearliercarburetedengineswithaclamponthevalve cover, except it uses two bolts and slotted clips on top of the air intake plenum. To ensure the correct gap between the throttle lever and its stopper, insert a feeler gauge between the lever and the stopper. The correct gap is listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the locknut (2.4L) or adjustment bolts (3.OL) securely.

11 Now,check the accelerator pedal: It should operate smoothly and the throttle valve must open fully by the time the accelerator pedal has been depressed as far as it will go.

12 Periodically, apply athin coat of multi-purpose tor pedal pivot points. grease to theaccelera-

9 Fuel h&es and vapor separator - replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage whereanaturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterheaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. lfyou spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type tire extinguisher on hand.

Note: Since the fuel injection system is under considerable pressure, always replace all @amps released or removed with new ones.

Fuel hoses

1 Periodically, check all rubber fuel hoses and metal fuel lines for cracks, bends, deformation, deterioration or clogging.

2 Remove the air cleaner assembly.

3 On fuel-injected engines, relieve the fuel system pressure (see Sec- tion 2). *

4 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

5 Loosen the hose clamps or bolts (if equipped), wrap a cloth around each end of the hose to catch the residual fuel and twist and pull (clamped on type), pull straight off (bolted-on type) or unscrew the hose (screwed-in type) to remove the hose.

6 When replacing hoses, always use original e.quipment-type replacement hose and use new hose clamps or O-rings. Pressure hoses for the fuel injection system are made from special materials to handle the high pressures - use only hoses made to the same high standards.

7 Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

8 install the air cleaner assembly.

Vapor separator (carbureted models)

9 The vapor separator is the small canister mounted high on the left front fendernell. It is mounted in the fuel system between the fuel pump and the carburetor and is designed to prevent vapor lockcaused by high underhood temperatures.

10 The main fueldine from the fuel pump is connected to the middle fitting

(color-coded red) leads to the carburetor

(which is also color-coded accelerator red). The hose connected pump to the bottom housing fitting

(colorcoded yellow) leads to thecarburetorfuel inlet (alsocolorcodedyel- low).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

11.5 Removing the float bowl vent tube from the carburetor 11.6 R’emove and plug the three fuel hoses

11 The color-coded lines and fittings reduce the possibility of incorrect hose installation during carburetor servicing.

12 If the vapor separator is somehow damaged or begins to teak, it must be replaced with a new one. When installing a new vapor separator, position it so that the red fitting is at the top. passages of the carburetor. To do the job properly, you will also need a clean place to work and plenty of time and patience.

10 Carburetor-servicing

1 A thorough road test and check of carburetor adjustment should be done before any major carburetor service. Specifications for some adjustments are listed on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label found in the engine compartment.

2 Some performance complaints directed at the carburetor are actually a result of loose, misadjusted or malfunctioning engine or electrical components Others develop when vacuum hoses leak, are disconnected are incorrectly routed. The proper approach to analyzing carburetor prob- or lems should include a routine check of the following areas:

3 inspect all vacuum hoses and actuators for leaks and proper installation (see Chapter 6).

4 Tighten the intake manifold nuts and carburetor mounting nuts evenly and securely.

5 Perform a cylinder compression test (see Chapter 2).

6 Clean or replace the spark plugs as necessary.

7 Test the resistance of the spark plug wires (see Chapter 5).

8 Inspect the ignition primary wires and check the vacuum advance operation. Replace any defective parts.

9 Check the ignition timing with the vacuum advance linedisconnected and plugged.

10 Set the carburetor idle mixture (see Section 13).

11 Check the fuel pump pressure (see Section 3).

12 Inspect the heat control valve in the air cleaner for proper operation

(see Chapter 6).

13 Remove compressed the carburetor air filter element and blow out any dirt with air. If the filter is extremely dirty, replace it with a new one.

14 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system (see Chapter 6).

15 Carburetor problems usually show up as flooding, hard starting, stalling, severe backfiring, poor acceleration and lack of response to idle mixture screw adjustments. A carburetor that is leaking fuel and/or covered with wet-looking

16 Diagnosing deposits definitely needs attention. carburetor problems may require that the engine be started and run with the air cleaner removed. While running the engine without the air cleaner it is possible that it could backfire. A backfiring situation is likely to occur if the carburetor is malfunctioning, but removal of the air cleaner alone can lean the air/fuel mixture enough to produce an engine backfire.

17 Once it is determined that the carburetor disassembled, cleaned and reassembled is indeed at fault, it should be using new parts where necessary. Before dismantling the carburetor, make sure you have a carburetor rebuild kit, which will include all necessary gaskets and internal parts, carburetor cleaning solvent and some means of blowing out all the internal

11 Carburetor - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 11.5 and 11.6

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage wherea naturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa water heaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel tank, wear safety g/asses and have a Class B type fire exfinguish- er on hand.

Removal

1 Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2 Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. Be sure to label all vacuum hoses attached to the air cleaner housing (see Section 7).

3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle lever on the carburetor (see Section 8).

4 If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, the TV (kickdown) cable from the throttle lever. disconnect

5 Clearly label all vacuum and coolant hoses and fittings, then disconnect the hoses (see illustration).

6 Disconnect the fuel lines from the carburetor (see illustration).

7 Label the wires and terminals, then unplug all electrical connectors.

8 Remove the nuts (there are five on most models) and lock washers attaching the carburetor to the intake manifold. Removal of the idle speed adjusting screws (SAS) from the carburetor body will make access to the left rear mounting nut less restricted. Remove the carburetor gasket. Stuff a shop rag into the intake manifold openings. mounting

Ins talla tion

9 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of gasket material and sealant from the Intake manifold (and the carburetor, if it’s being reinstalledJL then remove the shop rag from the manifold openings. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

10 Place a new gasket on the intake manifold.

11 Position the carburetor on the gasket and install the mounting nuts.

12 To prevent carburetor distortion ordame, tighten the nuts in acriss- cross pattern, i/4-turn at a time, to the torque listed in this Chapter’sSpec- ifrcations.

13 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

14 Check and, if necessary, or 17). adjust the idle speed (see Section 13, 15

15 If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission,

Chapter 78 for the TV (kickdown) cable adjustment procedure.

16 Start the engine and check carefully for fuel leaks. refer to

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-15

12.la Remove the air cleaner hold-down stud

12.1 b Slide back the hose clamps and remove the coolant hose

12.2a Remove the spring clip, then pry the throttle opener rod out of the throttle lever (air conditioned models only)

12.2b The throttle opener is held in place with two screws

12.3a Remove the fuel cut-off solenoid ground wire

12.3b Remove the solenoid retaining screw

12 Carburetor (32-35 DIDTA) (1983 and 1984 non-FBC models) -overhaul

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage whereanaturalgas-typeappliance (sochasa waterheaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a C/ass 6 type fire extinguisher on hand.

Note: The following gverhaul procedure is for an early model carburetor.

The procedure for carburetors installed on later models is essentially the same, but slight detail changes made to these models may slightly affect the disassembly and reassembly sequence.

Disassembly

Refer to illustrations iZ.la, 12.14 12.2a, 12.2b, 12.3a, 12.36, 12.3c,

12.4a, 12.4b, 12.5a, 12.5b, 12.5c, 12.5d, 12.5e, 12.6a, 12.6b, 12.7a,

12.7b, 12.8a. 12.8b, 12.8~. 12.9, 12.10, 12.11, 12.12a, 12.12b, 12.12c, iZ.i2d, 12.13a, 12.13b, 12.13c, 12.14a, 12.14b, 12.15, 12.16, 12.17,

12.18, 12.19, 12.2Oa, 12.206, 12.2ia, 12.2ib, 12.2ic, 12.2id, 12.22a,

12.22b. 12.23, 12.24a, 12.24b, 12.24~. 12.25, 12.26a, 12.26b, 12.26c,

1226d, 1226e, 1226f, 12.27a, 12.27band 12.28

1 Remove the carburetor (see Section 11). Remove the air cleaner hold-down stud (see illustration) and the air cleaner gasket from the top of the carburetor. Pull back the hose clamp and remove the coolant hose from the back of the carburetor (see illustration).

2 Remove the spring clip and carefully pry the throttle opener actuating rodoutoftheprimarythrottleshaftlever(airconditioned modelsonly)(see illustration). Remove the throttle opener from the carburetor body; it is held in place with two screws (see illustration).

3 Disconnect the fuel cut-off solenoid ground wires from the carburetor body (see illustration). Remove the solenoid retaining screw (see lllus- nation) and lift the solenoid away from the carburetor (see illustration).

Do not lose the O-ring on the solenoid body.

4 Unscrew and remove the idle mixture screw, the spring, the washer and rubber seal (see illustrations).

5 Disconnect the linkage at the sub EGR valve by prying off the spring clip (see illustration) and removing the pin (see illustration). Slide the linkage out of position and remove the spring and ball from the end of the sub EGR plunger. Using a screwdriver, unsnap the accelerator pump linkage from the throttle shaft arm (see illustration) and remove the accelerator pump from the carburetor body. It is held in place with four screws

(see illustration). Disassemble the pump and inspect the parts (see ll- lustration).

8 Remove the vent system ground wire (see illustration) and the three screws holding the solenoid to the carburetor body (see illustration).

Carefully lift the solenoid and the spring inside it away from the carburetor

(see illustration).

9 Remove the one remaining screw holding the ventsystem body to the

carburetor (see illustration) and lift it off (don’t forget to remove the rubber gasket from the carburetor body).

4-16 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

12.3~ Carefully lift the solenoid away from the carburetor

12.4a Remove the idle mixture screw 12.4b idle mixture screw, spring, washer and rubber seal

12.5a Pry the spring clip off the sub-EGR valve linkage pin

12.5b Sub-EGR linkage pin

_: _

12.5~ Unsnap the accelerator pump linkage from the throttle shaft arm

12.5d Remove the accelerator pump from the carburetor body

12.!% Accelerator pump components 12.6a Remove the ASV housing screws

6 Remove the four screws holding the ASV housing in place (see iiius- tration) and lift off the housing. Remove the spring, the spring cap, the springguideandthediaphragm. Laythepartsoutonacleansurfaceinthe order of disassembly (see illustration).

7 Remove the screw attaching the ASV body to the carburetor lustration) and carefully lift off the ASV body (see illustration).

(see ii-

10 To disassemble the vent valve, remove the spring clip, thewasher, the valve seal from the end of the plunger. Slip the O-ring off the body. The diaphragm and plunger (one piece) can now be withdrawn from the valve body. Lay the parts out on a clean surface in the order of disassembly (see illustration).

11 Remove the enrichment system diaphragm housing. It is held in place by three screws. Remove the gasket, separate the two halves of theous: ing, and lift out the spring and the diaphragm (see illustration).

12 Remove the CAV housing. It is held in place by three screws (see ii- lustration). Lift out the spring guide, the springs, the spring cap and the diaphragm. Lay the parts out on a clean surface in the order of disassembly (see illustration). Remove the three screws holding the choke unloader diaphragm plate to the carburetor body (see illustration). Lift off the plate and remove the spring (see illustration).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-17

12.6b ASV components 12.7a Remove the ASV body attaching screws

12.7b The ASV body

12.8a Remove the vent system ground wire

12.8b Remove the screws attaching the, solenoid to the carburetor body

._ . ._

12.8~ The solenoid and spring

12.9 Remove the screw holding the vent system body to the carburetor

12.10 Vent system components 12.11 Enrichment system components

. i2.12a Remove the CAV housing screws

12.12b CAV components 12.12~ Remove the choke unloader diaphragm plate screws

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

12.12d Choke unloader diaphragm plate and spring

12.13a Pry the secondary diaphragm link out of the secondary throttle lever

12.13b Pull the hose off the carburetor body

12.13~ Remove the secondary diaphragm mounting screws

12.14a Disconnect the throttle return spring from the primary throttle lever

12.14b Note the reference lines on the upper choke pinion gear assembly mount

12.15 Remove the two screws holding the choke pinion gear assembly to the carburetor

12.16 Remove the screws attaching the choke plate to the choke shaft

12.17 Remove the spring clip from the manual choke unloader linkage rod

13 Carefully throttle lever pry the secondary diaphragm link out of the secondary

(see illustration) and pull the hose off the carburetor body

(see illustration). Remove the two mounting screws and lift off the diaphragm assembly (see illustration).

14 Disconnect the throttle return spring from the primary throttle lever

(seeillustration).Theupperchokepiniongearassemblymount hasase- rfes of lines scribed on it. Note which one is lined up with the dot on the body (see illustration).

15 Remove the two screws holding the choke pinion gear assembly to the carburetor body and carefully pull it free (see illustration).

16 Separate the choke plate from the choke shaft. It is held in place with two small screws (see illustration).

17 Remove the spring clip and carefully pry the manual choke unloader linkage rod out of the choke lever (see illustration).

18 Using small pliers, pull out the pin holding the choke unloader diaphragm in alignment (see illustration).

19 Remove the throttle return spring mount. It is held in place with one bolt (see illustration).

20 Pulloutthechokeunloaderdiaphragmandlinkage(seeillustration), then withdraw the choke shaft from the carburetor body (see illustration).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-19

12.18 Pull out the pin holding the choke unloader diaphragm in alignment

12.19 Remove the throttle return spring mount

12.20a Pull out the choke unloader diaphragm and linkage

12.20b Withdraw the choke shaft 12.21a Unhook the secondary return spring

12.2lb Remove the two choke mechanism housing screws

____ - :” .-.-.-,

A- . . . . _ , c--v

12.21~ Lift the choke mechanism housing away from the carburetor body

12.21d Separate the spacer and O-ring from the housing

21 Unhook the secondary return spring from the choke mechanism housing (see illustration). Remove thetwoscrews (see illustration) and lift the choke mechanism housing away from the carburetor body (see illustration). Separate the spacer and small O-ring from the housing (see illustration).

22 Remove the four remaining screws (see illustration) and lift the top cover off the carburetor. Be careful not to bend or otherwise damage the float mechanism (see illustration).

23 Before removing the float, invert the top cover and measure the distance from the float seam to the gasket surface of the top cover (see illustration). Record the measurement for future reference.

24 Carefullyslideoutthepivotpinandseparatethefloatandinletneedle from the top cover (see illustration). Slip the needle out of its mount on

12.22a Remove the top cover screws the float (see illustration). Unscrew and remove the inlet needle seat and washer (see illustration).

25 Remove the top cover gasket from the carburetor body (see illustration).

26 Hold your finger over the accelerator pump discharge plunger bore

(see illustration). Tip the carburetor upside down and let the steel ball from the anti-overflow mechanism in the bottom of the float bowl fall out

(see illustration). Next, remove the accelerator pump steel check ball and weight (see illustration). Draw a simple diagram showing the sizes

(stamped on the jets) and the locations of the primary and secondary main jets, then unscrew and remove them from the carburetor body (see illustrations).

4-20 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

12.22b Lift the top cover off; dOn’t bend the float arm

12.23 Measure the distance from the float seam to the gasket surface of the top cover

12.24a Slide out the pivot pin

12.24b Separate the float and needle from the top cover

12.24~ Remove the inlet needle seat 12.25 Remove the top cover gasket

12.26a Accelerator pump discharge plunger bore

12.26b Anti-overflow mechanism steel ball

12.26~ Accelerator pump steef che&- ball and weight location

12.264 Remove the primary main jet 12.26e Remove the secondary main jel

12.261 Remove the idle jets

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems ’ 4-21

12.27a Remove the two screws attaching the throttle body to the carburetor body

27 Remove thetwo attaching screws (see illustration) and separate the throttle body from the carburetor body (see illustration). Do not remove any plugs or fittings from the carburetor body that have been sealed with white paint.

28 Slipoff therubberbootandslidethesub-EGRvalveplungeroutofthe throttle body (see illustration).

Inspection

29 Once the carburetor has been completely disassembled, the parts should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. There are many commercial carburetor cleaning solvents available which can be used with good results.

30 Thediaphragmsandsomeplasticpartsofthecarburetorcan bedam- aged by solvents; avoid placing these parts in any liquid. Clean the external surfaces of these parts with a clean cloth or soft brush. Shake or wipe dirt and other foreign material from the stem plunger side of the diaphragm. Compressed air can be used to remove loose dirt, but should not be connected to the vacuum diaphragm fitting.

31 If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, hot water will produce the best results. After rinsing, all traces of water must be blown from the passages using compressed air. Never clean jets with a wire, drill bit or other objects. The orifices may be en- larged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance.

32 When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is often difficult to be sure they are serviceable. It is therefore recommended that new parts be installed, if available, when the carburetor is disassembled. The required parts should be included in the carburetor rebuild kit.

33 After all the parts have been cleaned and dried, check the throttle valve shaft and choke shaft for proper operation. If sticking or binding occurs, clean the shafts with solvent and lubricate them with engine oil.

34 Checkthejetsfordamageorclogging. Replacethemifdamageisevi- dent.

35 Inspect the idle mixture adjusting screw. The tapered portion of the screw must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged replace the screw with a new one.

36 Check the strainer screen for clogging and damage.

37 Check the vacuum chamber. Push the vacuum chamber rod in, seal off the nipple and release the rod. If the rod does not return, the vacuum chamber is most likely in good condition. If the rod returns when rel&j.sed, the diaphragm is defective. The vacuum chamber should be replaced with a new one if this condition exists.

38 To check the fuel cut-off solenoid, connect a jumper lead to the positive (+) terminal of a 12-volt battery and the wire lead of the solenoid. Con- nect a second jumper lead to the negative (-) terminal of the battery and the solenoid ground wire. The needle should move in toward the solenoid when the battery is connected and out when the battery is disconnected. If it does, the fuel cut-off solenoid is good.

12.27b Separate the throttle body from the carburetor body

(don’t disassemble the throttle shafts and linkages at this time)

12.28 Slide the sub-EGR plunger out of the throttle body

Reassembly

Note: The reassembly process will be easier if the sequencedphotos the disassembh section are fqllowed in reverse. in

39 Using a new gasket, assemble the throttle body to the carburetor body and tighten the mounting screws securely.

40 install the main and pilot jets in the carburetor body. Make sure they are installed in the correct bores.’

41 Place the anti-overflow ball in place in the bottom of the float bowl and insert the accelerator pump steel check ball and weight into the accelerator pump bore.

42 Install the new inlet needle seat in place in the carburetor top cover;

(don’t forget to include a new washer). Assemble the new inlet needle to the float and attach the float to the top cover.

43 Invert the top cover and measure the distance from the float seam to the gasket surface of the top cover (see illustration 12.23). If the measured distance is more or less than it was during disassembly, remove the float from the top cover, unscrew the inlet needle seat and add or remove washers (as necessary) to change the float height. Reassemble the inlet needle and float and recheck the measurement. Repeat the procedure as required until the distance is the same as it was during disassembly. When checking the float level on 1984 models, measure the distance from the bottom of the float to the gasket surface of the float chamber (it should be

0.787 + or - 0.394 inches).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

13.5 Idle speed (SAS) and mixture (MAS) adjustment screw locations

44 Gently lay the top cover in place using a new gasket and install the mounting screws. Tighten them evenly and securely.

45 Install the choke mechanism housing and tighten the screws securely. Make sure the manual choke unloader rod is facing in the proper,direction.

46 Slide the choke shaft into place and install the choke plate. It is a very good idea to use a thread locking compound on the choke plate attaching screws.

47 Insert the manual choke unloader rod into the choke lever.

48 Install the choke unloader/diaphragm and push the pin into place.

49 Install the throttle return spring mount and tighten the screw securely.

50 Engage the spring loop on the choke pinion gear assembly, hold the choke plate closed and engage the plastic gear teeth of the choke pinion gear with the gear teeth on the choke set lever. Install the screws, move the pinion gear assembly to line up the marks exactly as they were before disassembly, then tighten the screws securely.

51 Install the secondary diaphragm assembly and hook up the hose. Slip the diaphragm link into the secondary throttle lever.

52 Install the choke unloader diaphragm plate and tighten the screws.

53 Install the CAV internal parts and housing then tighten the mounting screws evenly and securely.

54 Assemble the enrichment system components and install the housing in place on the carburetor body. (The wire clamp fits over the upper left mounting screw). Tighten the mounting screws securely.

55 Assemble the vent valve. Lubricate the O-ring on the valve body and slide the valve into place in the carburetor body. Tighten the mounting screws securely.

56 Install the vent valve solenoid and tighten the mounting screws. At- tach the ground wireto the carburetor body.

57 install the ASV housing (with the wire clamp on the longest screw) and tighten the mounting screws finger-tight. Assemble the ASV internal parts, install the housing and tighten the mounting screws.

58 Install the accelerator pump and hook the linkage to the throttle shaft arm.

59 Slip the small steel ball and the spring into place in the end of the sub-

EGR valve plunger Install the rubber boot and push the plunger into place in the throttle body. Hold the linkage in place, install the pin and snap the spring clip into place on the end of the pin.

60 Make sure the O-ring is in place on the fuel cut-off solenoid body, then firsstall the solenoid and tighten the mounting screws. Remove the short screw on the ASV body. Install the fuel cut-off solenoid ground wire and tighten both ASV body mounting screws securely.

61 Insert the throttle opener actuating rod into the primary throttle shaft lever. Install the spring clip and mount the throttle opener on the carburetor

(air-conditioned models only).

‘62 Install the coolant. hose and slide the hose clamps into place.

63 Double check all screws to make sure they are tight and the carburetor reassembly is complete.

13 Carburetor (32-35 DIDTA) (1983 and 1984 non-FE models) - adjustments

Idle speed and mixture

1 An exhaust gas analyzer must be used to adjust the idle mixture.

Since the average home mechanic doesn’t have access to such equip’ ment, we recommend the idle speed and mixture adjustments be done by a dealer service facility perform. department or a suitably-equipped automotive tune-up

2 However, you can do the basic adjustments for the idle speed and mixture without an exhaust gas analyzer if you follow the steps outlined here. Just remember that final adju_stment must be done with the proper equipment to ensure compliance

3 Before making the idle speed with emission standards. and mixture adjustments, check the ignition system, including the ignition timing. Look for cracked or disconnected vacuum lines.~ Make sure the intake manifold and carburetor mounting nuts are tightened evenly and securely; any intake leaks muI be fixed before proceeding. temperature so the choke

Also, the engine is completely open. must be at normal

Place operating the transmission in

Neutral and set the parking brake. The air conditioner, lights ansail accessories must be off.

4 Hook up a tachometer its manufacturer. in accordance with the instructions provided by

2.OL engine (49~states only)

Refer to illustration 13.5

5 Wiih the engine running, carefully turn the idle mixture adjusting screw (MAS) (see illustration) clockwise, preferably by hand, until the engine starts to slow down or misfire. When this happens, slowly turn the

MAS in the opposite direction (counterclockwise).

f

he engine should start to speed up again. Then, as the MAS is turned farther, the engine should begin to slow down or misfire.

6 These two points are sometimes eye on the tachometer. difficult to discern, so keep a close

The idle mixture adjusting screw should be turn&d approximately 1 /I 6 of a turn each time, allowing about ten seconds for tne engine speed to stabilize beween adjustments.

7 Once you have determined how the engine reacts to changes of the

MAS position, slowly until the smoothest, turn it clockwise fastest idle speed or counterclockwise, is obtained. as necessaQ,

8 Next, turn the idle speed adjusting screw (SAS) until the speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is obtained.

9 Recheck the MAS to make sure it is still providing the smoothest, fastest idle speed at that position.

10 Slowly turn the MAS clockwise, while watching the tachometer, Until the engine is idling atthe specified idle speed. Turning the MAS clockwise leans the idle mixture, forcing it to fall into the emission specification range, and causes the engine to slow down. If the engine misfires badly, repeat the procedure, turning the MAS further counterclockwise initiany.

2.OL engine (California only) and 2.6L engine (all)

11 Remove the air hose from the inlet of the secondary air supply system reed valve and plug the reed valve inlet.

12 With the engine running, carefully turn the idle mixture adjusting screw (MAS) (see illustration 13.5) clockwise, preferably by hand, until the engine starts to slow down or misfire. When this happens, slowly turn the MAS!n the opposite direction (counterclockwise). The engine should start to speed up again. Then, as the MAS is turned further, it should begin to slow down or misfire.

13 These two points eye on the tachometer. are sometimes difficult to discern, so keep a close

The MAS should be turned approximately 1 /I 6 of a turn each time, allowing about ten seconds for the engine speed to St&i- lize between adjustments.

14 Once you have determined how the engine reacts to changes ofke

MAS position, slowly turn it clockwise or counterclockwise, as necessary, until the smoothest, fastest idle speed is obtained. Next turn the idle spmd adjusting screw (SAS) until the idle speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifi- cations is obtained. Recheck the MAS to make sure it is still providing the smoothest, fastest idle speed at that position.

15 Unplug the reed valve inlet and hook up the air hose.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Truck with A, T and with .

M/‘T for federal

Truck with M T for

4-23

13.19 Throttle opener (idle-up) adjusting screw location (air-conditioned models)

16 If the idle speed changes, return it to the specified rpm by turning the

SAS in or out as necessary.

17 If the engine misfires badly, repeat the procedure, further counterclockwise initially. turning the MAS

Air-conditiqned models

Refer to illustration 13:19

18 Afterthe idle mixtureandspeed have been adjusted, an additionalad- justment must be made to all air-conditioned models.

19 Turn off all accessories. Put the transmission in Neutral and apply the parking brake. If the vehicle has power steering, put the wheels in the straight ahead position so the power steering pump isn’t loaded. Now turn the air conditioner control switch to On (this activates the throttle opener on the carburetor). Adjust the idle speed to the idle-up engine speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications justing screw (see illustration) by turning the throttle opener (idle-up) ad- in or out as necessary.

20 When the speed has been set, turn off th& air conditioner switch-the engine should return to the specified idle speed. control

Automatic choke

21 The choke valve is automatically throughaset ature increases. leverandarackandpiniongearsetupas operated by a wax element that senses the coolant temperature. This element allows the choke valve to close under spring pressure at low coolant temperatures and opens it thecoolanttemper-

22 The wax element plunger pushes against an adjustable screw on the choke set lever; This screw is preset at the factory to provide for proper chokeclosing and opening and sealed with white paint. Do nottamperwith it, as choke operation will be adversely affected.

23 The choke should not require any adjustment as long as the rack and pinion gears are properly oriented and the choke pinion gear assembly is adjusted so that the choke plate is lightly seated in the closed position when the choke linkage is installed.

14 Carburetor (FBC) (1985 and 1986 models) -overhaul

Warning: Gasoline is extreme/y flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a naturalgas-type appliance (such as awaterheaterorclothes dry- er) with a pilot light is present If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire exfin- guisher on hand.

14.1 Remove the coolant hose, throttle return spring and damper spring

Disassembly

Refer to illustrations 14.1, 14.3, 14.4, 14.5, 14.7, 14.8a, 14.8b, 14.10,

14.11,14.12,14.13, 14.14, 14.16, 14.17a,14.17b,14.16,14.19a,14.19b,

14.20, 14.21, 14.22and 14.23

Note: Do not remove the choke and throttle valves from the shafts.

1 Remove the carburetor (see Section 11) and detach the coolant hose from the carburetor (see illustration).

2 Remove the throttle return spring and the-damper

3 Grind off the heads on the choke cover screws spring.

(see illustration) with a hand grinder, then remove the cover.

4 Remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (see

5 Remove the throttle opener/dashpot illustration). rod from the free lever, then remove the throttle opener/dashpot tration). from the float chamber cover (see illus-

6 Unplug the wiring harness from the electrical connector.

7 Unscrew and remove the three solenoid valves -deceleration, richmentandjet mixture-from thefloatchambercover(seeillustration). en-

8 Remove the bowl vent solenoid and valve (see illustrations).

9 Remove the vacuum hose from the depression chamber and the throttle body fitting.

IO Remove the screws and detach the choke breaker cover tration).

(see illus- i

4-24 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

14.3 Grind ott the heads on the choke cover screws

(arrows) and remove the choke cover

14.4 Remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

14.5 Remove the throttle openerfdashpot 14.7 Remove the solenoid valves

14.8a Remove the bowl vent solenoid.. .

11 Remove the depression chamber rod from the secondary throttle le- vet’, then remove the depression chamber (see illustration).

12 Detach the accelerator pump rod from the throttle lever (see illustra- tlon).

13 Remove the snap-ring from the choke rod, then disconnect from the choke lever (see illustration). the rod

14.8b. . . and valve

14 Remove the float chamber cover screws (B) and remor/? the throttle body (see illustration). ’

15 Remove the screws (A) and remove the float chamber cover from the main body.

16 Pull out the pin and remove the float and the needle (see illustration).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-25

14.10 Remove the choke breaker cover 14.11 Remove the depression chamber

14.12 Remove the accelerator pump rod 14.13 Remove the snap-ring, then remove the choke rod

14.14 Remove the float chamber cover 14.16 Remove the pin and the float, then remove the needle

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

14.178 When removing the needle seat, . . . 14.17b . . . grasp the seat at area A, not in area B

14.18 Remove the main jets 14.19a To remove the pilot jet, remove the retainer, . . I

14.19b . . . then carefully needle-nose pull out the jet with pliers

14.20 Remove the iwo lock screws and remove the choke pinion assembly

17 Unscrew the retainer and remove the needle seat with a pair of pliers

(see illustration). Caution: When removing the need/e seat, clamp area

A with pliers, not area 6 (see illustration).

18 Using a screwdriver with the right size tip, remove the main jets from the jet blocks (see illustration).

19 Remove the pilot jet retainer and pull out the secondary pliers (see illustrations). pilot jet with

20 Remove the two lock screws and remove the choke pinion assembjy

(see illustration).

21 Remove the checkweight fill device (see illustration). and ball, and the steel ball of the anti-over-

22 Remove the accelerator pump mounting screws and remove the pump cover link assembly, diaphragm, spring, body and gasket from the main body (see illustration).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Accelerator pump outlet

Check weibt and ball

Accelerator pump inlet check ball Anti-overfill device

4-27

14.21 Remove the check weight and ball from the accelerator pump outlet and remove the steel ball of the anti-overfill device

14.22 Remove the accelerator pump mounting screws and remove the pump cover link assembly, diaphragm, spring, body and gasket from the carburetor

Pin’

14.23 Remove the snap-ring from the sub-EGR control valve pin

14.31 A universal float level gauge setup for measuring float height

23 Remove the snap-ring from the sub-EGR control valve pin (see illustration).

24 Remove the pin, then remove the link from the valve. Then take out the steel ball and spring from the sub-EGR control valve.

* 25 Remove the sub-EGR control valve from the throttle body.

Reassemb&

26 Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent and blow out all air passages with compressed air before beginning reassembly..

27 Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Don’t reuse any old gaskets or O-rings. Use the new ones in the carburetor rebuild kit.

28 When replacing jets, make sure the old jet and new jet are the same size (a No. is stamped on each jet).

29 lnspectthe operation of the throttle and choke linkage, and the sub-

EGR valve. They should operate smoothly.

Float adjustment

Refer to illustrations 14.31 and 14.32

30 Invert the float chamber cover assembly without a gasket.

31 Position a universal float level gauge, or equivalent instrument, as shown (see illustration). The float level (distance from the bottom of the float to the surface of the float chamber) should be within the dimension listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Shim location

14.32 Shim location for float height adjustment shims

32 If it isn’t, the shim under the needle seat (see illustration) must be changed. Shim kit MD606952 contains three shims f.0118 in., .0157 in.- and .Oi 96 in.). Adding or removing a shim changes the float level by three times the thickness of the shim you add or remove.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

14.33 Fit the strangler spring to the choke lever 14.34 Align the inscribed line or black painted line of the choke pinion with the inscribed line on the cam lever

14.35 Temporarily tighten the new lock screws

14.36 Set the choke valve by moving the pinion arm up or down, align a punched mark on the float chamber at the center of the three inscribed lines and secure the pinlon arm with the lock screws

14.37a After installing the choke cover and the new cover screws, cut off the heads of the A screws. . .

Choke valve setting

Refer to illustrations 14.33, 14.34, 14.35, 14.36, 14.37a. 14.37b

33 Fit the strangler spring to the choke lever (see illustration).

34 Align the inscribed line or black painted line of the choke pinion with the inscribed line on the cam lever (see illustration).

35 Temporarily tighten the new lock screws (see illustration).

14.37b . . . and peen over the heads of the B screws

36 Set the choke valve by moving the pinion arm up or down, align a punched mark on the float chamber at the center of the three inscri.bed lines and secure the pinion arm with the lock screws (see

37 Install the choke cover and tighten the lock screws illustration).

(see illustrations). Cut off the head of the A lock screws. Peen the heads of the B lock screws with a ball peen hammer or punch.

ChaWer 4 Fuel and exhaust svstems

Throttle

_ opener adjusting screw

SAS-1

SAS-3

14.39 Using a drill bit of the specified diameter, measure the fast idle opening; if it’s not correct, adjust it with the fast idle adjusting screw

15.la idle speed adjusting screw (SAS-1) location (1985 and 1986 FBC carburetor) - don’t touch the other idle speed adjusting screw (SAS-3); the throttle opener adjusting screw is for adjusting the air conditioning idle-up speed over the mixture adjusting screw. Once this is done, follow the procedure in Section 13.

There’s one other important carburetor adjustment on FBC carburetors - theThrottle Position Sensor (TPS) adjustment. You’ll find the procedure forthis adjustment in Chapter6, in the”lnformation sensors”Section.

15.lb Don’t touch idle speed adjusting screw (SAS-2) - it’s preset at the factory (1985 and 1986 FBC carburetors)

Fast idle opening adjustment

Refer to illustration 14.39

38 The carburetor shouldsit in an ambient temperature of 73-degrees F. for an hour before adjusting the fast idle opening.

39 Using a drill bit of the specified diameter, measure the fast idle open- ingand compare it to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specification+ (see illustration). If it’s not correct, adjust it with the fast idle adjusting screw.

15 Carburetor (FBC) (1985 and 1986 models) - adjustments

Refer to illustrations 15. la and 15. lb

The procedure for adjusting the idle speed and, on air-conditioned models, the idle-up speed, is essentially the same on models with FBC carburetors as it is on earlier models with non-FBC carburetors (see Sec- tion 13). However, the location of the adjusting screws is different (see illustrations). Caution: Don’t touch idle speed adjusting screw No. 2

(SAS-2), which is preset at the factory. SAS-2 determin& the relationship between the throttle valve and the free lever and has been accurately set at the factory. If this setting is disturbed, throttle opener adjustment and dashpotadjustmentareimpossible toset. There’s athird idle screw known as SASB. Don’t tamper with it either!

The idle mixture is factory pre-set on these models and should not require adjustment under normal circumstances. If, however, you must adjust the mixture, you’ll have to drill out and remove the concealment plug

16 Carburetor (FBC) (1987 through 1989 models) -overhaul

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage whereanaturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterheaterorclothesdty- er) with a pilot light is present. lfyou spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a C/ass B type fire extinguisher on hand.

--==

Disassembly

Refer to illustrations 16.1, 16.5, 16.6, 16.7a, 16.76, 16.8, 16.9, 16.1Oa,

16.1Ob, 16.11a, 16.11b, 16.18, 16.21and 16.23

Caution: When loosening a Phillips screw which is very tight, use a Phil- lips screwdriver that’s an exact fit for the screw. Also, during the following disassembly procedure, don’t disassemble the choke valve; the choke shaft and automatic choke device; the inner venturi; the throttle valve and throttle shaft: or the fuel inlet nipple.

1 After removing the carburetor (see Section ll), remove the throttle return spring, damper spring and throttle return spring bracket (see illustration).

2 Remove the throttle opener/dashpot.

3 Remove the accelerator cable bracket.

4 Remove the vacuum delay valve and both short sections of vacuum hose to which it’s connected.

5 Using a pin or a small screwdriver with a thin, fiat tip, push the stopper portionto removeeachofthethreeTPSterminalsfrom therearoftheelec- trical connector (see illustration). Make sure the terminals aren’t bent when the connectors are unplugged.

6 Removethefloatchambercoverscrews,thefloatchambercoverand the cover gasket. Don’t try to force off the cover if it’s stuck to the gasket.

Insert a screwdriver between the enrichment cover and the float chamber cover, lightly pry and lift up the float chamber cover (see illusttqtion).

7 Remove the float pivot pin (see illustrations), the float, the needle ’ valve, the O-ring and the packing. Don’t let the float drop and don’t put a load on the float. And don’t damage the end of the needle valve.

8 Using a pair of flat-bladed screwdrivers, pry up the needle valve seat at both edges (see illustration) and remove the seat. Don’t damage the float chamber cover when pushing on the needle valve seat.

4-30 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

f 6.1 An exploded view of the two main components of the f 987 through f 989 FBC carburetor

1 Throttle return spring

2 Damper spring

3 Throttle return spting bracket

4 Throttle opener/dashpot

5 Bracket

6 Vacuum hose

7 Vacuum delay valve

8 Vacuum hose

9 Screw

IO Float chamber cover assembly

11 Float chamber cover gasket

12 Mixing body and throttle body assembly

,12

Stopper portion

Connector

/ Pin

TPS terminals

(three pieces) f 6.5 (above) Using a pin or small screwdriver with a thin, fiat tip, push the stopper portion to remove the three TPS terminals from the rear of their respective connectors - (below) TPS terminal locations

9 Remove the retainer screw and retainer for the feedback solenoid,

Using a pin or a small screwdriver with a thin, flat tip, push the stopper portion and remove the two terminals from behind the electrical connector

(see illustration), then remove the feedback solenoid and the O-rings

(the feedback solenoid can’t be removed until the the terminals are removed from the connector). Make sure you don’t bend any terminals dur- f 6.6 if the float chamber cover is stuck to the gasket, insert a screwdriver between the float chamber cover and the enrichment cover and pry the float chamber cover loose ing removal of the connector. Remove the tube for the electrical harness.

10 Remove the retainer for the Slow Cut Solenoid Valve (SCSV) and rii- move the SCSV and O-rings. When removing the SCSV, grasp the valve body- not the leads (see illustration). Using a pin or a small screwdriver with a thin, flat tip, push the stopper section and remove the two terminals from behind the connector (sea illustration).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

16.7a An exploded view of the float chamber assembly

(1985 through 1987 FBC carburetor)

1 Float pivot pin

2 Float

3 Needle valve

4 Needle valve seat

5 O-ring

6 Packing

7 Retainer

8 Feedback Solenoid

Valve (FBSV)

9 O-ring

10 O-ring

II Tube

12 Retainer

13 Slow-cut solenoid valve (SCSV)

14 O-ring

15 O-ring

16 Plate

17 Bimetal assembly

18 Packing

19 Connector

20 Cover

21 Diaphragm

22 Spring seat

23 Spring

’

Body

Spring

Diaphragm

Valve

Mixture control valve (MCV) assembly

Gasket 29

Cover

Spring

Diaphragm

Body

Spring

Diaphragm

Bracket

Cover

Spring

39 Diaphragm

40 Body

4 I Primary main air jet

Primary pilot jet

Secondary pilot jet

Float chamber cover

11 1hi5 L a

I

12 4-31

16.7b To remove the float, knock out the float pivot pin

FBSV terminal

(two pieces)

16.8 Using a pair of flat-bladed screwdrivers, pry up on b the edges of the needle valve seat

16.9 FBSV terminal locations

16.10a Remove the retainer for the Slow Cut

Solenoid

Valve (SCSV) and remove the SCSV and O-rings

SCSV terminal

(two pieces)

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Brmetal

Plate assembly \

16.70b SCSV terminal locations

Bimetal assembly

Terminal

16.11a To remove the bimetal assembly, heads of the two rivets (Canadian models grind have off the no rivets) and remove the screw (arrow)

16.11 b Bimetal terminal location

11 Grind off the heads of the two rivets of the bimetal assembly with a hand grinder, remove the screw (see illustration), remove the plate, the bimetal assembly and the packing. Knock out the remainder of each rivet body with a pin punch. Using a pin or asmallscrewdriverwith a thin, flat tip, push the stopper section and remove the terminal from behind the electrical connector (see illustration). Make sure you don’t bend the terminal during connector removal. Note: Canadian models don’t have any rivets, just three screws, ho/ding the bimetal assembly plate.

12 Remove the cover, diaphragm, spring seat, spring, body, spring, diaphragm and valve from the carburetor

16.7a).

(parts 20 through 27 in illustration

13 Remove the mixture control valve (MCV) assembly and the gasket.

14 Remove the cover, spring, diaphragm,

(parts 30 through 35 in illustration 16.7a). body, spring and diaphragm

15 Remove the bracket (part 36 in illustration 16.7a).

16 Remove the cover, spring, diaphragm and body (parts 37 through 40 in illustration 16.7a).

17 Remove the primary main air jet, the primary pilot jet and the secondary pilot jet. When you remove jets, use a screwdriver that’s an exact fit for their respective slots so you don’t nick or gouge them during removal.

18 Remove the steel ball, weight, ball, plug, O-ring and ball (see illustration).

19 Remove the screw(s) from the underside of the throttle body. Make sure the Phillips screwdriver crosshead out of the screw. you use is an exact fit to prevent

Any burrs created stripping the

.in the head of this screw could produce a gap between the throttle body and the manrfold surface.

20 Separate the throttle body from the mixing body. Discard the gasket between the two. Don’t reuse it.

21 Remove the primary main jet and the secondary tration). Again, use an appropriately sized screwdriver main jet (see illus- that fits tightly to prevent damage to the jets. The jets are stamped on top to indicate their size. Be sure to note which size jet goes where so they can be reassembled the same way.

22 Remove the cover, spring and diaphragm (parts 11 through 13 in illustration 16.18).

23 Remove the enrichment jet valve (see illustration). Caution: This valve has many small parts; don’t lose even one of them! Again, use a screwdriver whose tip is an exact fit for the cross slots in the head of the jet toavoiddamaging thejetduringremoval. Usingascrewdriver, takeout the enrichment jet, the spring and the ball from the enrichment jet valve.

24 Remove the accelerator pump cover assembly, diaphragm, pump body and gasket (parts 18 through 21 in illustration 16.18). spring,

25 Remove the hose, auxiliary accelerator phragm and check valve (parts 23 through 27). pump cover, spring, dia-

26 Remove the vacuum hose and detach the depression

(dashpot) (parts 28 and 29).

27 Remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (part 31). chamber

28 Do NOT remove the throttle lever, cam follower, fast idle adjusting screw, free lever, apartment plate, idle speed adjusting screw (SAS-2), spring, secondary lever, idle speed adjusting screw (SAS-I), plug or mixture screw (parts 32 through 42).

Inspection

Refer to illustration 16.4 1

29 Wash thecarburetor mixing body andthrottle solvent and blow dry with compressed air. bodythoroughly in fresh

30 Inspect ail fuel circuits (jets) and air circuits (jets or orifices) for clogging. If a circuit is plugged, blow it out with compressed air - don’t stick metal wires into circuits.

31 Inspect all diaphragms for tears a’nd cracks. Replace as necessary.

32 Verify that the needle valve operates smoothly. If it’s hard to slide or binds, repair or replace it. If the carburetor’s been overflowing, to-seat contact is probably bad. Inspect this area thoroughly. the valve-

Alsocheck the fuel inlet filter immediately

33 Check the operation above the needle valve for clogging. of the float assembly. Look for any deformation the float or lever. Replace as necessary.

34 Check the operation of the throttle valve, choke valve and link. If they don‘t operate smoothly, scrub and clean them with solvent, blow dry, apply in new engine oil to the shaft and recheck. If the assembly still binds, repiace it.

35 Inspect the float chamber and main body for damage and cracks,

36 Apply battery voltage directly to the Slow Cut Solenoid Valve (SCSV) terminals and verify that the valve clicks.

37 Using a self-powered test light or continuity checker, verify that there’s no continuity between the solenoid viilve body and the terminals

38 Measure the resistance between the SCSV terminals. Compare y&Jr measurement to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

39 Replace the SCSV if it fails any of the above tests.

40 Apply battery voltage directly to the Feedback Solenoid Valve (FBSV) terminals and verify that the valve clicks.

41 Inspect the jet in the FBSV (see illustration). Make sure it’s not clogged.

42 Using a self-powered test light or continuity checker, verify continuity between the FBSV body and the terminals.

43 Measure the resistance between the FBSV terminals.

44 Replace the FBSV if it fails any of the above tests.

45 Using a self-powered test light or continuity checker, measure the resistance between the terminal and body of the bimetal assembly. tance should be approximately 6 ohms.

Resis-

46 Verify that the dashpot operates properly. Pull on the dashpot rod - you should feel a steady resistance. Release the rod - it should return quickly to its retracted position. If you feel no resistance when you pull on the rod, thediaphragmorcheckvalveis broken. Iftherodreturnsslowlyto

ChaDter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-33

16.18 An exploded view of the mixing body and throttle body assemblies (1985 throunh

1987 iBC carburetbr) -

1 Steelball

2 Weight

3 Ball

4 Plug

,.t

5 O-ring

6 Ball

76 Screw

8 Gasket ’

Primary main jet

Secondary main jet

Cover

Spring

Diaphragm

Enrichment j& valve

Enrichment jet

Spring

Ball

Pump cover assembly

Diaphragm

Spring

Pump body

Gasket

’

Vacuuni hose

Auxiliary accelerator pump cover

Spring

Diaphragm

Check valve

Vacuum hose

Depression

Mixing body chamber (dashpot)

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Throttle lever

Cam follower

Fast-idle adjustment screw

Free lever

Throttle linkage adjustment plate

Idle-speed ao@stment screw (SAS-2)

Spring

Secondary lever

Idle-speed adjustment screw (SAS-I) “,g ”

Concealmentplug

Mixture-adjustment

Throttle body screw (MA-$)

.,i

16.21 Remove the primary main jet and the secondary main jet with a small screwdriver-make sure the screwdriver tip fits snugly to prevent damage to the slots in the jets

16.23 Remove the enrichment jet valve - again, use a screwdriver with a tip size that just fits into the cross slots in the head of the valve

4-34 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

16.41 Inspect the jet (arrow) in the FBSV to make sure it’s not clogged

16.52 Install the ball, O-ring, plug, ball, weight and steel ball in their correct locatlons

16.54a Fit the bimetal end over the choke valve lever, . . . 16.54b . . . and install the plate and the screw, align the mating marks its retracted position, the check valve is binding. In either case, replace the dashpot.

47 Inspect the depression chamber diaphragm for damage. First, push the rod all the way in, plug the vacuum pipe with your finger and release the rod. If the rod doesn’t return to its initial position, the diaphragm is in good condition. If the rod returns, the diaphragm is broken. Replace the depression chamber.

48 Inspect the mixture adjusting screw (MAS) for any damage caused to its tapered end by overtightening.

49 Inspect the Throttle Position Sensor (see Chapter 6).

Reassembly

Refer to illustrations 16.52, 16.54a, 16.54b, 16.55 and 16.56

50 Reassembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly. note the following points as you reassemble the carburetor.

But be sure to

51 The main jets are stamped on the top to indicate their size. Be sure the jets go back @to their original locations.

52 Install the ball, O-ring, plug, ball, weight and steel ball in the correct sequence and at the correct locations (see illustration).

53 Make sure you install the correct size secondary pilot jet, primary pilot jet and primary main air jet in the correct locations. The size of each jet is stamped on the side of the jet body.

54 Fit the bimetal end over the choke valve lever (see illustration), install the plate, slightly tighten thescrew, align the mating marks (see illustration), put the rivets in position, install the bimetal assembly with a hand riveter, tighten the screw and install the terminal at the correct location in the electrical connector (see illustration 16.11 b). Note: The bimetalas- sembly on Canadian models doesn’t use rivets.

55 When you install the Slow Cut Solenoid Valve (SCSV) and the Feed- back Solenoid Valve (FBSV), make sure you install the terminals at their correct locations in the electrical connector (see illustration).

56 After you’ve installed the float chamber cover assembly, install the three Throttle Positton Sensor (TPS) terminals at the correct locations in the electrical connector (see illustration).

Fast idle opening adjustment

Refer to illustrations 76.57and 16.58

57 Set the lever on the highest step of the fast idle cam (1987 m‘odels) or the second highest step (1988 and i989 models) (see-illustration).

58 Using a drill bit, measure

(fastidleopening) the primary valve-to-throttle

(seeillustratlon)andcompareyourriTeasur~tientWEh bore clearance the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. specification, adjust it with the the fast idle adjusting

If the clearance screw. is outDf

If you turn the adjusting screw clockwise, the valve opening increases and the fast idle rpm increases; if you turn the screw counterclockwise, the valve opening decreases and the fast idle rpm decreases.

Unloader opening adjustment

Refer fo illustrations 76.60 and 16.61

59 Lightly press the choke valve with your finger to close it all the way.

60 Fully open the throttle valve and measure the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance (see illustration). Compare your measurement clearance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. to the

61 If the clearance is out of specification, indicated point (see illustration). bend the throttle lever at the

If you bend the lever up, the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance increases and response deteriorates; bend the lever down, the clearance decreases. if you

Choke breaker adjustment

‘Refer to illustration 16.64

62 Lightly press the choke valve with your finger to close it all the way.

63 Push the choke breaker rod toward the diaphragm and measurethe choke valve-to-choke bore clearance. Compare yourmeasurement to the clearance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

TPS output (yellow green/red)

4-35

FBSV (red)

SCSV’ (red)

Front view

‘For bimetal assembly

16.55 A terminal guide for installing the terminals of the Slow Cut Solenoid

Valve (SCSV) and Feedback Solenoid

Valve (FBSV)

TPS 0 (black/red)

16.56 A terminal guide for installing the terminals of the Throttle Position

Sensor (TPS)

16.57 On 1988 and 1989 models, set the lever on the second highest step of the fast idle cam, as shown here; on

1987 models, set it on the highest step

Choke valve

16.58 Measure the primary valve-to-throttle bore clearance (fast idle opening); if it’s off, adjust it with the the fast idle adjusting screw-turning the adjusting screw clockwise increases the valve opening and the fast idle rpm; turning the screw counterclockwise decreases the valve opening and the fast idle rpm

16.60 Fully open the throttle valve and measure the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance

Lever ’

16.61 If the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance is incorrect, bend the throttle lever at the point indicated by the arrows - bending the lever up increases the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance; bending the lever down decreases clearance

64 If the clearance is out of specification, adjust it by bending the throttle lever at the indicated point (see illustration). If you bend the lever open, the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance increases, startability deteriorates and the engine is more likely to stall; if you bend the lever closedr clearance decreases.

Choke valve operation check

65 Operate the chokevalve with afinger andcheckforfreeplay, incorrect operation and binding.

Rod

-L

16.64 If the clearance is out of specification, adjust it by bending the throttle lever at the indicated point - bending the lever open increases the choke valve-to-choke bore clearance, hurts startability and increases the likelihood that the engine will stall; bending the lever closed decreases clearance

66 If the choke doesn’t operate smoothly and lightly, reclean the area. around the choke valve with fresh solvent, then apply a light coat of engine oil.

67 If the freeplay is excessive, replace the float chamber cover.

Secondary throttle valve operation check

68 Open the throttle valve all the way and operate the secondary throttle valve lever with your finger to check for freeplay, incorrect operation and binding.

4 - 36 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

17.8a if the idle speed isn’t within the specified limits, readjust it by turning adjusting screw No. 1 (SAS-1)

17.8b Don’t touch MS-2 - this screw, preset at the factory, establishes the relationship between the throttle valve and the free lever; if you alter this relationship, throttle opener and dashpot adjustments won’t be accurate

17.10 if the throttle opener speed is outside the specified limits, adjust it with the throttle opener adjusting screw

17.13 Open the throttle valve so the dashpot rod is extended the full length of its stroke and the free lever contacts SAS-3

69 if the valve doesn’t operate smoothly, reclean the area around the valve and apply a thin coat of engine oil.

76 If freeplay

Port check is excessive, replace the throttle body.

71 Connect a hand-operated clogging of the passages. vacuum pump to each port and check

72 If any port is clogged, reclean it and blow compressed airinto for the port.

17 Carburetor (FBC) (1987 through 1989 models) - adjustments

1 Make sure all lights and accessories are turned off. Place the transmission in Neutral. If the vehicle is equipped with power steering, center the steering wheel (wheels pointed straight ahead).

2 Hook ufacturer’s up a timing instructions. light and tachometer in accordance with the man-

3 Start the engine and warm it up to its normal operating temperature.

Idle speed

Refer to illustrafions 17.8a and 7 7.8b

4 Depress the accelerator pedal once to release the fast idle cam.

5 Check the ignition timing. Adjust it if necessary (see Chapter I).

6 Run the engine at idle for two minutes.

7 Note the idle speed and compare your reading with the idle speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

8 If the idle speed isn’t within the specified limits, readjust it by turning adjusting screw No. 1 (SAS-1) (see illustration). Caution: Don’t touch

SAS-2 (see i//usfretion). This screw, which is preset at the factory, establishes the relationship between the throttle valve and the free /ever. If this relationship is altered, the throttle openeranddashpot adjustments below won’t be accurate.

Throttle opener (air-conditioned models)

Refer to illustration 17.7 0

Note: Check and, if necessar): adjust the ignition timing (see Chapter 1) and idle speed (see above) before doing this aqjustment. Andsee Steps 1 through 3.

9 Turn on the air conditioner switch; this opens the solenoid valve, allowing intake manifold vacuum to actuate the throttle opener. Note what happens to engine speed when you turn on the switch. It should be within the range listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

10 if the engine speed is outside the specified limits, adjust it with the throttle opener adjusting screw (see illustration).

Dashpot speed

Refer to illustration 17.13

11 Adjust the idle speed (see above). And see Steps 1 through 3.

12 Start the engine and run it at idle.

13 Open the throttle valve until thedashpot rod is extended the full length of its stroke and the free lever contacts SAS-3 (see illustration).

14 Close the throttle lever until SAS-2 contacts the free lever and note the engine speed at that moment of contact. Compare your reading with the dashpot speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

15 If the dashpot speed isn’t as specified, adjust the dashpot speed by turning SAS-3.

16 Release the free lever and verify that the engine returns to idle spe&i slowly.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-37

related emission control systems, particularly the information sensors and the engine control unit, refer to Chapter 6.

18 Multi-Point Injection (MPI) -general information

Some 1989 and all 1990 and later models are equipped with an electronic fuel injection system known as Multi-Point Injection (MPI). Aside from slight differences in some emissions-related components, the MPI systems used on 2.4L and 3.OL engines are virtually identical. Both are computerized, electronically controlled fuel, ignition and emission control systems. Their important sub-systems include air induction, fuel delivery, fuel control, emission control and the engine control unit. Each system dif- fers slightly in the type and location of these components.

Air induction system

The air induction system includes theaircleaner assembly, the throttle body, the ductwork between the air cleaner and the throttle body, the

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and the Idle Speed Control (ISC) servo.

Fuel delivery sys tern

The fuel delivery system provides fuel from the fuel tank into the fuel control system. It also returns any excess fuel back into the fuel tank. The system includes an in-tank electric fuel pump, fuel filter and return line.

Fuel control system

The fuel control system includes the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel rail and the fuel injectors. On MPI systems, the intake manifold supplies air only; fuel is sprayed directly into the ports by the fuel injectors.

Emission controls and the engine control unit

The oxygen sensor, airflow sensor, intake air temperature gine coolant temperature sensor, Throttle Position Sensor sensor,

(TPS), en- idle position switch, crank angle sensor and barometric pressure sensor are all important to the proper operation of the MPI system, but they’re more closely related to emissions than to fuel. If you’d like to know more about

19 Fuel injection system-check

Note: the fool/owing procedure is based on the assumption, that the fuel pressure is adequatk (see Section 3).

1 Checkall ground wire connections ness connectors related for tightness. to the MPI system. Loose

Check connectors all wiring har- and poor grounds can cause many problems that resemble more serious malfunctions. Also check all vacuum connections and make sure all vacuum hoses are in good condition and not hardened, cracked or plugged.

2 Verify that the battery is fully charged; the engine control unit and the information sensors depend on an accurate supply voltage to function properly.

3 verely

Check impede the air filter element-a performance dirty or partially blocked filter will se- and economy (see Chapter 1).

4 Check for blown fuses. If a blown fuse is found, replace it and see if it blows again. If it does, search the circuit for a short.

5 Look for leaks in the air intake duct between the air cleaner housing and the throttle body and at the gasket between the throttle body and the air intake plenum. Air leaks cause an excessively spect all vacuum hoses connected to the throttle lean mixture. body and intake

Also in- man- ifold.

6 Remove the air intake duct from the throttle’body and check for dirt, carbon or other residue build-up. If the throttle body is dirty (pay particular attention to the area just inside the throttle plate), clean it with carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush.

7 With the engine running, place a screwdriver against each injector, one at a time, and listen through the handle for the clicking sound made by the solenoid inside. This sound should be clearly audible at idle.

20.2 An exploded view of the throttle body assembly and related components (2.4L engine)

I Air intake hose

Breather hose

Wiring harness connector

Air intake pipe

Air hose

Accelerator cable

TV (kickdo wn) cable

Coolant hose

Vacuum hose(s) (California models have extra hoses)

Throttle body

Gasket

4-38 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

body

Air intake plenum side

20.12 Be sure to install the throttle body gasket with the projection in the position shown - if gasket installation is Incorrect, it can affect idle quality and cause other problems

20 Throttle body - removal and installation

2.4L engine

Refer to illustrafions 20.2 and 20.12

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the air intake hose from the air intake pipe (see illustration).

3 Detach the breather hose from the air intake pipe.

4 Unplug the wiring harness connector(s).

5 Remove the air intake pipe mounting bolts and remove the air intake pipe.

6 Remove the air hose.

7 Disconnect the accelerator cable (see Section 8).

8 Disconnect the TV (kickdown) cable (see Chapter 7, Part B).

9 Place some absorbent shop towels under the connections coolant hoses, then detach both hoses. Some coolant will be lost. for the

10 Detach the vacuum hose(s).

11 Remove the four throttle body mounting bolts, the throttle body and the gasket. Use ascraper to remove all traces of old gasket material from the throttle body and plenum mating surfaces. Wipe the surfaces with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to install the gasket correctly (see illustration). Tighten the throttle body mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Connect the negative battery cable and adjust the accelerator cable when you‘re through (see Sec- tion 8). Add coolant to replace the coolant lost when you disconnected coolant hoses from the throttle body. the

3.OL engine

Refer to illustration 20.14

13 Disconnectthe negative cable from the battery. Disconnectthe erator cable (see Section 8).

14 Detach the vacuum hose(s) (see illustration).

15 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the air intake hose. accel-

16 Unplug the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) electrical connector.

17 Unplug the Idle Speed Control ([SC) servo electrical connector.

18 Place some absorbent shop towels under the connections for the coolant hoses, then detach both hoses. Some coolant will be lost.

19 Remove the throttle body mounting bolts, the throttle body and the gasket. Using a scraper, remove all traces of old gasket material from the throttle body and air intake plenum mating surfaces. Clean the surfaces: with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

20 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the throttle body mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Adjust the accelerator cable when you’re through (see Section 8), and coolant to replace the coolant lost when you disconnected add the coolant hoses from the throttle body. Connect the negative battery cable.

20.14 An exploded view of the throttle body assembly and related components (3.OL engine)

1 Accelerator cab/e

2 Vacuum hose(s) (California models have extra hoses)

3 Air intake hose

4 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) electrical connector

5 Idle Speed Control (EC) electrical connector

6 Coolant hose

7 Throttle body

8 Gasket

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Idle speed control servo connector

21.2 Using an ohmmeter or multimeter at the connector terminals, compare check the continuity your measurement this Chapter’s with

Specifications of the ISC servo coil and the resistance

(2.4L engine) listed in

21.5 On the 3.OL engine, the ISC servo is located under the throttle body

.21.8 Using an ohmmeter or multimeter, check the continuity of the ISC servo connector compare your measurements

Chapter’s Specifications at the indicated terminals with the resistance listed and in this

(3.OL engine)

21 Idle Speed Control (ISC) servo-check and replacement

Check

2AL.engine

Refer to illustration 21.2

1 Unplug the electrical connector for the Idle Speed Control (ISC) ier- vo.

2 Using an ohmmeter or multimeter at the connector terminals (1 and

2), check the resistance your measurement of the EC servo with the resistance coil (see illustration). Compare listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions.

3 Hook ~?p a 6V DC battery between terminal 1 and terminal 2 of the connector

Caution: for the ISC servo side the /SC servo. and verify

Don’t use a more powerful that the ISC servo battery is operating. or you may lock the gears in-

4 If the ISC servo fails to operate when powered up by a 6V DC battery, or if the indicated resistance is outside the specified resistance, replace the servo as an assembly.

3.OL engine

Refertoillustrations21.5,21.8and21.12

5 Listen to the ISC servo (see illustration) while an assistant turns the ignition switch to On (not to Start). The servo should make an audible sound.

6 If the servo is silent, inspect the electrical circuit. If the circuit is in good shape, the likely cause is a malfunction of the servo or the engine control unit.

7 Unplug the ISC servo electrical connector.

21.12 Holding the ISC servo as shown, power it up with a 6V

DC battery by touching the terminals of the electrical connector in the sequence described in the accompanying text

8 Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 1, and between terminals 2 and 3 (see illustration) and compare your reading to the resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

9 Measure the resistance between terminals 5 and 6, and between terminals 5 and 4 and compare your reading to the resistance listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications.

IO Remove the throttle body (see Section 20).

11 Remove the ISC servo (see below).

12 Hook up the positive terminal of a 6V DC battery to terminals 2 and 5

(see illustration).

13 Holding the ISC servo as shown in the preceding illustration, hook up the negative terminal of the6V DC battery to each terminal of the connector in the following sequence and note whether there’s any vibration (a very slight shaking of the servo) as the motor is activated.

1) Connectthe negative battery terminal toconnectorterminals3

2) Connect the negative battery terminal tqconnectorterminals and 6.

1 and6.

3) Connectthenegative batteryterminaltoconnectorterminals 1 and4.

4) Connect the negative battery terminal toconnectorterminals3and4.

5) Connectthenegative batteryterminaltoconnectorterminals3and6.

6) Repeatthe above five steps in the reverse sequence (5 through 1).

4-40 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

21.16a An exploded view of the throttle body assembly

(2.4L engine)

1 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

2 Idle Speed Control (EC) servo assembly

3 Throttle valve set screw

4 Throttle body

3

CD f

21.16b An exploded view of the throttle body assembly

(3.OL enaine)

1 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)/ idle position switch assembly

2 Idle Speed Control (/SC) servo assemblv

3 Throile body c

14 If the servo vibrates slightly during these tests, it’s okay; if it doesn’t, replace it.

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 2 1.16a and 2 1.166

15 Unplug the ISC servo electrical connector, if you haven’t already done so.

16 Remove the ISC servo mounting screws (see illustrations). The threads of these screws have been coated with adhesive, so make sure you don’t strip out the heads trying to loosen them.

17 Remove the ISC servo unit.

18 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the screws to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

22 Air intake plenum - removal and installation

2.4L engine

Refer to illustration 22.1

1 If you’re planning to replace the air intake plenum assembly, remove the throttle body (see Section 20); if you’re only removing the plenum to replace agasket or service the cylinder head (i.e. if you intend to reinstall the same plenum assembly), the throttle body can remain attached. De- tach all hoses, cables and connectors from the throttle body as if you were going to remove it, but leave it attached to the plenum (see illustration).

2 Disconnect vacuum hoses. the PCV hose, brake booster vacuum hose and other

3 Remove the ignition coil (see Chapter 5).

4 Unbolt the air intake plenum assembly and remove it and the gasket.

5 Using a scraper, remove all traces of old gasket material from the plenum and intake manifold mating surfaces. Clean the surfaces with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use anew gasket and tighten, the plenum mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapters center out.

Specifications in several stages, working from the

3.OL engine

Refer to illustration 22.6

6 If you’re planning to replace the air intake plenum assembly, remove the throttle body (see Section 20); if you’re only removing the plenum to replace a gasket or service the cylinder head (i.e. if you intend to reinstall the same plenum assembly), the throttle body can remain attached. De- tach all hoses, cables and connectors from the throttle bodyas if you were going to remove it, but leave it bolted to the plenum (see illu$ration).

7 Unplug the electrical connector for the EGR temperature sensor.

8 Detach the brake booster vacuum hose, all other vacuum hoses and the PCV hose from the plenum.

9 Remove the ignition coil (see Chapter 5). Detach the accelerator and

TV (kickdown) cable brackets from the plenum.

IO Detach the bracket for the engine oil filler neck.

11 Remove the EGR pipe attaching bolts and detach the EGR pipe from the plenum.

12 Unbolt and remove the plenum stays. Remove the mounting bolts for the plenum assembly.

13 Remove the plenum and gasket.

14 Using a scraper, remove all traces of old,gasket material from the ple- -~ num and intake manifold mating surfaces. Wipe the mating surfaces clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a new gasket and tighten ,_ the plenum mounting bolts In several stages, working from the center out, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-41

22.1

An exploded view of the air intake plenum assembly (2.4L engine)

Air intake hose

Breather hose

Air intake pipe

Air hose

Accelerator

Throttle body cable and TV (kickdown)

Gasket

PCVhose

Brake booster vacuum hose

Vacuum hose

High tension cable

Ignition coil

Air intake plenum assembly

Plenum gasket cable

.6 An exploded view of the air intake plenum assembly (3.OL engine)

Air intake hose

Throttle

Position Sensor (TPS) electrical connector

Idle Speed Control (KC) servo electrical connector

Accelerator

TV (kickdown) cable adjusting bolt cable

Accelerator

Coolant hoses cable

EGR temperature sensor electrical connector

Vacuum hose

Brake booster vacuum hose

High tension cable

Ignition coil

Engine oil filler neck bracket

PCV hose

Vacuum hoses

EGR pipe attaching bolt

Gasket

Plenum stay-to-plenum

Bolt and nut bolt

Air intake plenum assembly

Plenum gasket

-

4-42 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

23 Fuel rail assembly - removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage wherea naturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterheaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and hqve a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Section 2).

2 Disconnect

3 Disconnect the negative all hoses, cable from the battery. cables and connectors from the throttle body

(see Section 20)

4 Remove the throttle body and air intake plenum as an assembly (see

Section 22).

2.4L engine

Refer to illustration 23.5

5 Pull up the retaining clip on each injector electrical connector and unplug the connector from the fuel injector (see illustration).

6 Cover the connection for the fuel high-pressure hose with a shop rag to absorb any spilled fuel (there’s still residual pressure in the line, even afterthefuel hose attaching

O-ring. pressure has been relieved). Remove the fuel high-pressure bolts and detach the high-pressure hose. Discard the old

7 Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the fuel return hose.

8 Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

23.5 An exploded view of the fuel rail assembly (2.4L engine)

Air intake hose

2 Breather hose

3 Fuel injector wiring harness

4 Air intake pipe

5 Air hose

6 Accelerator cab/e

7 Kickdown cable

8 Coolant hose

9 Vacuum hose

10 Throttle body

11 Gasket

/2 Fuel injector wiring harness electrical connector

13 Fuel high-pressure

14 Fuel return hose hose

15 Bolt

16 Fuelpressure regulator

17 O-ring

18 Fuel rail assembly

19 Insulator

20 Fuel injector

27 O-ring

Grommet

Insulator

9 Remove the bolt that attaches the metal pipe between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel return hose.

10 Remove the bolts that attach the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail. Remove the fuel pressure regulator/metal pipe assembly. Discard the

O-ring.

11 Remove the fuel rail assembly andthe insulators. Pull gently up on the rail, using a rocking motion. Inspect the insulators. If they’re in-satisfactory condition, they can be reused. If they’re cracked or damaged, replace them.

12 Installation is thereverse of removal. Do not reuse the O-rings for the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel high-pressure hose flange. Use new ones. Be sure to tighten the fuel pressure regulator mounting bolts and the fuel high-pressure ter’s Specifications. hose attaching bolts to the torquefisted in this Chap-

3.OL engine

Refer to illustrations 23.13 and 23.18

13 Cover the connection for the fuel high-pressure hose with a shop rag to absorb any spilled fuel (there’s still residual pressure in the line, even afterthefuel pressure has been relieved). Remove the fuel high-pressure hose attaching bolts (see illustration) and disconnect the hose. Discard the O-ring.

14 Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the fuel return hose.

15 Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and any other vacuum hoses in the way.

16 Pull up the retaining clip on each injector electrical connector and unplug the connector from the injector.

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-43

23.13 An exploded view of the fuel rail assembly

(3.OL engine)

4 s

Air intake plenum assembly

Fuel high-pressure

Fuel return hose hose

Vacuum hose

Fuel pressure regulator

O-rfng

Fuel injector wiring harness electrical connector

Fuel rail assembly

Fuel injector

O-ring

Grommet

Insulators insulator

17 Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts and remove the fuel rail and the insulators. Pull gently up on the rail, using a rocking motion. Discard the insulators.

18 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to use new insulators for the fuel rail (see illustration) and fuel injectors. Also, use a new O-ring for the fuel high-pressure hose connection and coat the O-ring with gasoline before installation. Tighten the fuel high-pressure hose attaching bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

24 Fuel injector(s) -check, removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a naturalgas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class 6 type fire extinguisher on hand.

Check

Refer to illustration 24.2

1 With the engine running or cranking, listen to the sound from each injector with an automotive stethoscope and verify the injectors are all clicking the same. If you don’t have a stethoscope, place the tip of a

23.18 After installing the fuel rail and mounting bolts, verify that all four insulators are properly seated before tightening the bolts (3.OL engine) screwdriver against the injectors and press your ear against the handle of the screwdriver. Also feel the operation of each injector with your finger. It should sound/feel smooth and uniform and its sound/feel should rise and fall with engine RPM. If an injector isn’t operating, orsounds/feels erratic, check the injector connector and the wire harness connector. If the connectors are snug, check for voltage to the injector, using a special injector harness test light (available at most auto parts stores).

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

24.2 If the injector is malfunctioning, check the resistance across the terminals and compare your measurement to the resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications - if the indicated resistance is outside specification, replace the injector

24.5 Make sure you install a new grommet and O-ring at the correct location on each injector

2 If there’s voltage to the injector but it isn’t operating, or if it sounds or feels erratic, check the injector’s resistance (see illustration). Compare your measurement to the resistance listed in this Chapter’s Specifica- tions. If the indicated resistance is outside the specified range, replace the injector.

Removal and installation

Refer to illustration 24.5

3 Remove the air intake plenum assembly (see Section22) rail assembly (see Section 23). and the fuel

4 Place the fuel rail assembly on a clean work surface so the fuel injectors are accessible. To remove an injector from the fuel rail, gently pull it straight out. Twisting it slightly as you pull may help. Discard the old O-ring and grommet.

5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Install a new O-ring and grommet onto each injector (see illustration). Apply a light coat of fresh gasoline to the O-ring to facilitate installation. To install an injector into the fuel rail, push it straight into its bore in the fuel rail, gently twisting it to the left and right as you push. Once the injector is fully seated, try to rotate it back and forth. It should turn smoothly if its properly installed. If it doesn’t, the

O-ring may be pinched or jammed; remove the injector and check the O- ring. If it’s okay, reinstall the injector; if the O-ring is damaged, replace it before installing the injector.

6 Install the fuel rail assembly with the injectors installed in the fuel rail

(see Section 23). Install the air intake plenum assembly (see Section 22).

25 Fuel pressure regulator - removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work an any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage wherea naturalgas-type appliance (such as a waterheaterorctothesdry- er) with a pilot tight is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

1 Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2).

2 Disconnectthe cable from the negative battery terminal.

3 Remove the air intake plenum (see Section 22).

4 Detach the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator tion 23.5 or 23.13).

(see illustra-

5 Loosen the hose clamp, slide it back on the fuel return hose and disconnect the fuel return hose from the metal tube attached to the fuel pressure regulator.

6 On 2.4L engines, remove the bolt that attaches the bracket for the metal pipe between the regulator and the fuel return hose.

7 Unbolt the fuel pressure regulator and detach it from the fuel rail. Dis- card the old O-ring.

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a new O-ring and coat it with a light coat of fresh gasoline. Tighten the fuel pressure regulator mounting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

26 Exhaust system servicing -general information

Refer to illustrations 26. la and 26. lb

Warnlng: lnspectionandrepairofexhaustsystemcomponentsshoul~be done only with the engine and exhaust components completely cool. Also, when working under the vehicle, make sure it’s securely supported on jackstands.

1 The exhaust system (see illustrations) consists of the exhaust manifold(s), the catalytic converter, the muffler, the tailpipe and all connecting pipes, brackets, hangers and clamps. The exhaust system is attached tc the body with mounting brackets and rubber hangers. If any of the parts are improperly installed, excessive to the body.

2 Conduct regular inspections noise and vibration of theexttaustsystem wiU be transmitted~ to keep it safe and quiet. Look for any damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes, loose connections, excessive corrosion or other defects which could allow exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. Deteriorated exhaust system components shouldn’t be repaired; they should be replaced with new parts.

3 If the exhaust system components are extremely corroded or rusted together, welding equipment will probably be required to remove them.

The convenient way to accomplish this is to have a muffler repair shop remove the corroded sections with a cutting torch. If, however, you want to save money by doing it yourself (and you don’t have a welding outfit with a. cutting torch), simply cut off the old components have compressed air, special pneumatic cutting with a hacksaw. chisels

If you can also be used.

If you do decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from metal chips and work gloves to protect your hands.

4 Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust system: a) Work from the back to the front when removing exhaust system components. b) Apply penetrating oil to the component fasteners to make them. easier to remove. c) Use new gaskets, system components. hangers and clamps when installing exhaust d) Apply anti-seize compound fasteners during reassembly. to the threads of all exhaust system e) Be sure to allow suff icrent clearance between newly installed parts and all points on the underbody to avoid overheating the floor pan and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention to the catalytic converter and heat shields

(see illustration).

U-engine (For Federal)

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-45

NOTE: The* indicates whicles which can he told in Federal. States.

TBD-engine

U-engine (For California)*

W-engine (For California)*

4-wheel drive models

U-engine (For Federal)

26.la An exploded view of typical pre-1687 exhaust systems

1 Front bxhaustpipe

2 Asbestos

3 Hanger plate

Main muffler

Gasket

Suspender

Center exhaust pipe

Protector

W-engine (For Federal and Canada) and

TBD-engine

W-engine (For California)*

4-46 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

26.1 b An exploded view of typical exhaust systems

1 Gasket

2 Front exhaust pipe (left)

3 Front exhaust pipe (right)

4 Front exhaust pipe

Oxygen sensor

Catalytic converter

Center exhaust pipe

Heat cover used on 1987 and later models

9 Hanger

10 Main muffler

11 Catalytic converter hanger

12 Tail pipe hanger

c c

Chapter 2 Part D

General engine overhaul procedures

Contents

Crankshaft-inspection ..... .._ .........................

Crankshaft - installation and main bearing oil clearancecheck .....................................

Crankshaft-removal ...................................

Cylinder compression

Cylinder head -cleaning check ............................. and inspection ....................

Cylinder head -disassembly

Cylinder head - reassembly

.............................

Cylinder honing

Engineblock-cleaning

..............................

Engine block - inspection

.................................

...............................

Engine overhaul-disassembly

Engine overhaul -general

Engine overhaul-reassembly sequence information sequence

_. ....

...................

.....................

....... _ ...........

.. 16

Engine rebuilding alternatives .................

Engine -removal and installation ........

Engine removal - methods and precautions

.._...._....._

_ ..........

....... _ .........

General information ....................................

Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul

Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection

...................

...............

...

Pistons and connecting rods - inspection

Pistons and connecting rods - installation

.............. and rod bearing oil clearance check ..............

Pistonsandconnectingrods-removal

._. ..................

. ., ..................

Pistonrings-installation ........

Rear main oil seal - installation

Valves-servicing

.._ _ .....

.................

..... .._....._...._.....-.~~.~-..-~.-.

:...*.

_ ....

__...._

_ ... - .....

.. 21

Specifications

2.6L engine

General

Displacement

Bore

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .._........................................

Stroke ‘:.............................................

Cylinder compression pressure _ _ . . . . . . . _ _ . . . _ . . . _ _ . . . _ _ . .

Oil pressure (at 3000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . _ . .

En&e block

Cylinder taper limit

Cylinder out-of-round limit

.*..

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . _ . . . _ . . _ . . , _ .

155.9 cubic inches

3.59 inches

3.86 inches

130 to 150 psi at 250 rpm

25!0 90 psi

0.0008 inch

2D-2 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

2.6L engine (continued) ,

Pistons and rings

Piston diameter .......................................

Piston ring side clearance

1983 through 1986

Top compression ring

Standard .......................................

Service limit ........................

Second compression

Standard ring

.......................................

Servicelimit

1987 on

Top compression

.................................... ring

Standard .......................................

Service limit .......... ._. ........................

Second compression ring

Standard

Servicelimit

Piston ring end gap

1983 models only

.......................................

....................................

Top compression

Standard ring

.......................................

Servicelimit ....................................

Second compression

Standard ring

......................................

Servicelimit

Oil ring

....................................

Standard

Servicelimit

.......................................

1984 through 1986

....................................

Top compression

Standard ring

.......................................

Servicelimit

Second compression

.................................... ring

Standard

Servicelimi;.:::::::::::::::::::::

Oil ring

Standard .............................

Servicelimit ....................................

1987 on

Top compression ring

Standard

Servicelimit

.......................................

Second compression

.................................... ring

Standard .......................................

Service limit ....................................

Oil ring

Standard .......................................

Servicelimit ....................................

............

..............................

. .........

3.5866 inches

0.002 to 0.004 inch

Not available

0.001 to 0.002 inch

Not available

0.0020 to 0.0035 inch

0.0047 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

0.0039 inch

0.010 to 0.015 inch

Not available

0.010 to 0.018 inch

Not available

0.012 to 0.024 inch

Not available

0.012 to 0.018 inch

Not available

0.010 to 0.015 inch

Not available

0.012 to 0.024 inch

Not available

0.0118 to 0.0177 inch

0.031 inch

0.0098 to 0.0157 inch

0.031 inch

0.0118 to 0.0315 inch

0.039 inch

Crankshaft and connecting rods

Endplay (standard) .....................................

Main bearing journal

Diameter

Taper limit

...........................................

1983through1986

19870n

.................................

.........................................

Out-of-round limit

1983through1986 .................................

19870n

Connecting

Diameter

..... rod journal

. ...................................

...........................................

Taper limit

1983through1986

19870n

.................................

.........................................

Out-of-round

19870n limit

1983through1986 .................................

.........................................

0.002 to 0.007 inch

2.3622 inches

0.0004 inch

0.0002 inch

0.0004 inch

0.0006 inch

2.086 inches

0.0004 inch

0.0002 inch

0.0004 inch

0.0006 inch

Chanter 2 Part D General encline overhaul procedures

Main bearing oil clearance

1983 through 1986

Standard . .................................

Servicelimit ......................................

1987 on

Standard .........................................

Service limit .......................................

Connecting rod bearing oil clearance

1983 through 1987

Standard ............. .._.......................

Servicelimit ......................................

1988 on

Standard ..........................................

Service limit .......................................

Connecting rod endplay (side clearance) ...................

Camshaft

Endplay .............................................

Silent shafts

1983 through 1986

Front bearing journal diameter ..........................

Front bearing oil clearance .............................

Rear bearing journal diameter ..........................

Rear bearing oil clearance .............................

1987 on

Right silent shaft

Front bearing journal diameter ........................

Front bearing oil clearance ...........................

Rear bearing journal diameter ....................

Rear bearing oil clearance ...........................

Left silent shaft

Front bearing journal diameter ........................

Front bearing oil clearance ..: .........................

Rear bearing journal diameter ........................

Rear bearing oil clearance ...........................

Cylinder head and valves

Head warpage limit ....................................

Valve seat angle ........................................

Valvefaceangte .......................................

Valve margin width

Intake

Standard .........................................

Servicelimit ......................................

Exhaust

Standard .........................................

Service limit (1983 through 1986) ......................

Service limit (1987 on) ..............................

Valve stem-to-guide clearance

Intake

Standard .........................................

Servicelimit ......................................

Exhaust

Standard .........................................

Servicelimit ......................................

Valve spring free length

1983and1984

Standard .........................................

Serviceiimit ......................................

1985 on

Standard .........................................

Servicelimit ......................................

Valve spring installed height

Standard .......................................

Servicelimit ........................................

Jet valves

Stem diameter ......................................

Seatangle .........................................

Springfreelength ....................................

Springpressure .................... . ................

. ......

...

; ...

.._.

0.0008 to 0.0020 inch

0.004 inch

0.0008 to 0.0018 inch

0.004 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

0.004 inch

0.0007 to 0.0022 inch

0.004 inch

0.004 to 0.010 inch

0.004 to 0.008 inch

0.906 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

1.693 inch

0.0024 to 0.0039 inch

0.830 inch

Not available

1.693 inch

0.0039 to 0.0053 inch

0.906 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

1.693 inch

0.0039 to 0.0053 inch

0.004 inch

45-degrees

0.047 inch

0.028 inch

0.079 inch

Not available

0.059 inch

0.0012 to 0.0024 inch

0.004 inch

0.0020 to 0.0035 inch

0.006 inch

1.869 inch

1.479 inch

1.961 inch

1.922 inch

1.590 inch

1.629 inch

0.1693 inch

45-degrees

1.165 inch

7.7 Ibs. at 0.846 inch

2D-3

2D-4 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul prmedures

2.6L engine (continued)

Torque specifications*

Jetvalves ..........................................

Main bearing cap bolts ................................

Connecting rod bearing cap nuts ........................

* Note: Refer to Part A for additional torque specifications.

Ft-lbs

(unless otherwise indicated)

2.OL and 2.4L engines

General

Displacement

2.OL ..............................................

2.4L ..............................................

Bore

2.OL ..............................................

2.4L ..............................................

Stroke

2.OL ..............................................

2.4L . .._._ ........................................

Cylinder compression pressure ...........................

Oil pressure (at 3000 rpm) ...............................

Cylinder head and valves

Head warpage limit

Standard ...........................................

Servicelimit ........................................

Valve margin width intake

Standard

Servicelimit

Exhaust

.........................................

......................................

Standard .........................................

Servicelimit ......................................

Valve stem diameter (intake and exhaust)

Valve stem-to-guide clearance

1987 only

Intake

Standard .......................................

Service limit ....................................

Exhaust

Standard

Servicelimit

All others

Intake

.......................................

....................................

Standard

Servicelimit

.......................................

....................................

Exhaust

Standard .......................................

Service limit ....................................

Valve spring

Out-of-square limit ...................................

Pressure ...........................................

Installed height ......................................

Free length

1983 and 1984

Standard

Servicelimit

1985 on

Standard

.......................................

....................................

.......................................

Servicelimit

Jet valves

Stem diameter

1987through1989

....................................

.................................

All others

Face/seat angle

........................................

1987through1989

All others

.................................

........................................

...................

121.9 cubic inches

143.4 cubic inches

3.35 inches

3.41 inches

3.46 inches

3.94 inches

130 to 150 psi at 250 rpm

25 to 90 psi

0.002 inch

0.008 inch

0.047 inch

0.028 inch

0.079 inch

0.059 inch

0.3100 inch

0.0012 to 0.0020 inch

Not available

0.0020 to 0.0031 inch

Not available

0.0012 to 0.0024 inch

0.004 inch

0.0020 to 0.0035 inch

0.006 inch

3-degrees

72 Ibs (322 N)

I.591 inch

1.870 inch

Not available

1.960 inch

1.921 inch

0.1693 inch

Not available

45-degrees

Not available

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

Spring

Free length

1987through1989 ...............................

All others .......................................

Load

1987 through 1989 .............

Allothers ......................................

..b .*. ............

Crankshaft and connecting rods

Connecting rod journal

1983 through 1987

Diameter ....................................

Out-of-round/taper

Bearing oil clearance

1988 on limits .............................

...............................

Diameter

Out-of-round

.........................................

...............................

Taperlimits .......................................

Bearing oil clearance ...............................

Connecting rod endplay (side clearance)

Main bearing journal

1983 through, 1987

...................

Diameter

Out-of-round

. . ....................................... limits/taper

Bearing oil clearance limits- ........................

..............

................

1988 on

Diameter

Out-of-round

Taperiimit

......................................... limits .................................

........................................

Bearing oil clearance

Crankshaft endplay

...............................

....................................

Cylinder bore

Diameter (nominal)

2.OLengines

2.4Lengines

Out-of-round/taper

........................................

........................................ limits .................................

Pistons and rings

Piston diameter (nominal)*

2.OL ..............................................

2.4L ..............................................

Piston-to-bore clearance

2.OL ..............................................

2.4L ..............................................

Piston ring end gap

1983 and 1984

Number 1 (top) compression

Standard ring

.......................................

ServiCelimit ....................................

Number 2 compression ring

Standard ........................

Servicelimit

Oil ring

Standard

....................................

Servicelimit

1985 and 1986

.......................................

....................................

Number 1 compression

Standard ring

.......................................

Servicelimit ....................................

Number 2 compression

Standard ring

.......................................

.................................... Servicelimit

Oil ring

Standard .......................................

Servicelimit

19870n

........................

Number 1 compression ring

Standard

Servicelimit

........................................

....................................

. ..............

_ ....

.._ ....

.._ ... _. ....

1 .I 65 inch

Not available

7.7 Ibs at 0.846 in

Not available

1.7720 inch

0.0004 inch

0.0008 to 0.0020 inch

1.7720 inch

0.0006 inch

0.0002 inch

0.0006 to 0.0020 inch

0.004 to 0.010 inch

2.2440 inches

0.0004 inch

0.0008 to 0.0020 inch

2.2440 inches

0.0006 inch

0.0002 inch

0.0008 to 0.0020 inch

0.002 to 0.007 inch

3.346 inches

3.406 inches

0.0008 inches

3.346 inches

3.406 inches

0.0004 to 0.0012 inch

0.0008 to 0.0016 inch

0.010 to 0.018 inch

Not available

0.008 to 0.016 inch

Not available

0.008 to 0.020 inch

Not available

0.010 to 0.018 inch

Not available

0.008 to 0.016 inch

Not available

0.008 to 0.028 inch

Not available

0.010 to 0.016 inch

0.031 inch

2D-5

2D-6 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

2.OL and 2.4L engines (continued)

Number 2 compression ring (2.OL only)

Standard .......................................

Servicelimit ....................................

Number 2 compression ring (2.4L only)

Standard .......................................

Servicelimit ....................................

Oil ring

Standard

Servicelimit

.......................................

....................................

Piston ring side clearance

1986 and earlier

No. 1 (top) compression

Standard ring

.......................................

Servicelimit ....................................

No. 2 compression

Standard ring

.......................................

Servicelimit

1987 on

....................................

No. 1 (top) compression ring

Standard .......................................

Servicelimit

No. 2’compression

Standard

.................................... ring

.......................................

Servicelimit .................................... l

Measured 5164~inch up from bottom of skirt

Silent shafts

Right silent shaft

Fronf bearing journal diameter

Front bearing oil clearance

1987only ........................................

..........................

All others ........................................

Rear bearing journal diameter ..........................

Rear bearing oil clearance

19870nly ........................................

All others

Lefl silent shaft

........................................

Front bearing journal diameter

Front bearing oil clearance

1983fhrough1986

..........................

.................................

19870nly

All others

.........................................

........................................

Rear bearing journal diameter ..........................

Rear bearing oil clearance

1987only ........................................

All others ........................................

Torque specifications*

Mainbeanngcapbolfs

Connectingrodcapnuts

Jetvalves

................................

..............................

.......................................... l

Note: Refer to Part i3 for additional torque specifications.

0.008 to 0.014 inch

0.031 inch

0.008 to 0.016 inch

0.031 inch

0.008 to 0,028 inch

0.039 inch

0.002 to 0.004 inch

Not available

0.001 to 0.002 inch

Not available

0.0012 to 0.0028 inch

0.004 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

0.004 inch

1.650 inch

0.0031 to 0.0043 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

1.610 inch

0.0043 to 0.0055 inch

0.0020 to 0.0036 inch

0.728 inch

0.0008 to 0.0020 inch

0.0008 to 0.0021 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

1.6lOinch

0.0043 to 0.0055 inch

0.0020 to 0.0036 inch

Ft-lbs

37 to 39

37 to 38

13to16

3.OL engine

General

Displacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder compression

Oiipressure pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine block

Inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder taper limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _

Cylinder out-of-round limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

181 cubic inches

3.587 inches

2.992 inches

119at250rpm

11.4 psi at idle

3.586 to 3.587 inches

0,0008 inch

0.0008 inch

Chader 2 Part D General endne overhaul procedures

Pistons and rings

Piston diameter .......................................

Piston ring side clearance

Top compresston ring

Standard .........................................

Service limit ................................

Second compression ring

Standard

Service limit

.........................................

...... ................................

Piston ring end gap

Top compression ring

Standard .........................................

Servicetimit

Second compression

...................................... ring

Standard .........................................

Service limit ......................................

Oil ring

Standard

Servicelimit

................................

......................................

Crankshaft and connecting rods

Endplay

Standard

Servicelimit

Out-of-round

...........................................

........................................

Main bearing journal

Diameter ...........................................

Taperllmit ...................................... limit ....................................

Connecting

Diameter..

Tapertimit

Out-of-round rod journal

.............................

.................................. limit ....................................

Main bearing oil clearance

Connecting rod bearing

....................... oil clearance ......................

Connecting rod endplay (side clearance)

Standard

Servicelimit

..........................................

........................................

Cylinder head and valves

Head warpage limit .....................................

Valveseatangle .......................................

Valve face‘angle

Valve margin width

.......................................

Intake

Standard .... . ....................................

Service limit ......................................

Exhaust

Standard .........................................

Valve

Servicelimit

Intake stem-to-guide

...................................... clearance

Standard ....................

Service limit ......................................

Exhaust

Standard

Servicelimit

.........................................

......................................

Valve spring free length

Standard ...........................................

Servicelimit ........................................

Valve spring installed height

Standard ...........................................

Servicelimit ........................................

Valve stem diameter

Intake ............................................

Exhaust ...........................................

..l..................

Torque specifications

Mainbearingcapbolts

Connecting rod bearing

.................................. cap nuts ..........................

* Note: Refer to Part C for additional torque specifications.

. .....

..I ......

. ...........

..i .....

. ...

.....

3.587 inches

0.0012 to 0.0035 inch

0.004 inch

0.0008 to 0.0024 inch

0.004 inch

0.0118 to 0.0177 inch

0.031 inch

0.0098 to 0.0157 inch

0.031 inch

0.0079 to 0.0276 inch

0.040 inch

0.002 to 0.010 inch

0.012 inch

2.361 to 2.362 inches

0.0002 inch

0.001 inch

1.968 to 1.969 inch

0.0002 inch

0.001 inch

0.0008 to 0.0019 inch

0.0006 to 0.0018 inch

0.004 to 0.010 inch

0.016 inch

0.002 inch

45degrees

45-degrees

0.047 inch

0.027 inch

0.079 inch

6.059 inch

0.0012 to 0.0024 inch

0.004 inch

0.0020 to 0.0035 inch

0.066 inch

1.988 inch

1.949 inch

1.591 inch

1.630 inch

0.313 to 0.314 inch

0.312 to 0.313 inch

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

2D-7

2D-8 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

Model

Four cylinder and V-6 engines

Engine number

(Displacement)

Valve type

Pick-up

G63B . .

G54B . .

G54B .

4664

6672 . .

Montero

6G72

G54B

(2.0L)(1983-1984)

(2.OL) (1985-l 989)

(2.6L) (1983-1984)

(2.6L) (1985-l 989)

(2.4L) (1990 on) .

(3.OL) (1990 on) .

. Adjustable w/Jet valve

. . Hydraulic w/Jet valve

. Adjustable w/Jet valve

. .

. Hydraulic w/Jet valve

. Hydraulic we/Jet valve

(3.OL) (1989 on) .

(2.6L) . . . . . .

. Hydraulic we/Jet valve

. . Hydraulic w/Jet valve

2.4a Remove the oil pressure sending unit (switch) and install a pressure gauge in its place (2.6L engine shown)

1.4 Engine Identification Chart

1 General information

Included in this portion of Chapter 2 are the general overhaul procedures for the cylinder head(s) and internal engine components.

The information overhaul ranges and the purchase from advice of replacement concerning preparation for an parts to detailed, step-by-step procedures covering removal and installation of internal engine components and the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been written based on the assumption engine has been removed from the vehicle. For information concerning the in-vehicleengine components repair, as well as removal necessary for the overhaul, and installation of the external see Part A (2.6L engine),

B (2OL and 2.4L engines) or Part C (3.OL V6 engine) of this Chapter.

Part

The Specifications included in this Part are only those necessary the inspection and overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to Parts for

A, B and C for additional Specifications.

2 Engine overhaul-general information

Refer to ksfrations 2.4~1, 2.46 and 2.4~

It’s not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered.

High mileage isn’t necessarily an indication an overhaul is needed, while low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine that% had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance,will vice. Conversely, most likely give many thousands a neglected engine may require of miles of reiiable an overhaul very ser- early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure oil leaks aren’t responsible before deciding the rings and/or guides are bad. Per- form a cyiinder compression check to determine the extent of the work required (see Section 3).

Remove the oil pressure sending unit and check the oil pressure with a gauge installed in ifs place (see illustrations). Compare the results to this Chapter’s Specifications. As a general rule, engines should have ten psi oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm’s. If the pressure Is extremely low, the bearings and/or oil pump are probably worn out.

3.OL Engine

2.4b Location of the oil pressure sending unit on 2.4L engines 2.4c Locatlon of the oil pressure sending unit on 3.OL engines

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures 2D-9

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they’re all present at the same time. If a complete tune-up doesn’t remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring the internal parts to the specifications of a new engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a re- bore is done by an automotive machine shop, new oversize pistons will also be installed. The main bearings, connecting rod bearings and camshaft bearings are generally replaced with new ones and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be reground to restore the journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they’re usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be rebuilt as well. The end result should be a like-new engine that will give many trouble free miles. Note:

Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, drivebelts, ther- mostatand is overhauled. watcrpump MUSTbereplacedwithnewparts

The radiator should be checked carefully whenanengine to ensure clogged or leaking (see Chapter 3). Also, we don’t recommend it isn’t overhauling the oil pump - always install a neti one when an engine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiarize yourself with the scope and requirements

Overhauling an engine isn’t particularly difficult, if you follow of the job. all of the instructions carefully, have the necessary close attention to all specifications; tools however, and equipment and pay it can be time consuming.

Plan on the vehicle being tied up for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive tioning. Check on availability of parts machineshopfor repairorrecondi- and make sure any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts to determine if they must be replaced. Of- ten an automotive machine shop will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement. Note: Always wait until the engine has been completely disassembled and all components, especially the engine block, have been inspected before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. Since the block’s condiiion will be the major factor to con- sider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have machine work done on other components until the block has been thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it doesn’t pay to install worn or substandard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, clean environment. everything must be assembled with care in a spotlessly

Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which doesn’t build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the undersides heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest of the valve gauge reading obtained.

8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders and compare the results to this Chapter’s Specifications.

9 If the readings are below normal, add some engine oil (aboutthree squirtsfromaplunger-typeoilcan) toeachcylinder, through thesparkplug hole, and repeat the test.

IO If the compression increases after the oil is added, the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression doesn’t increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent valves.

11 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compression, there’s a strong possibility the head gasket between them is blown. The appear- anceof coolant in the combustion chambers or the crankcase would verify this conditidn.

12 If one cylinder is about 20-percent lower than the others, and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft could be the cause.

13 If the compression is unusu,ally high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the cylinder head(s) should be removed and decarbonized.

14 If compression is way down or varies greatly between cylinders, would be a good idea to have a leak-down test performed by an automotive repair shop. This test will pinpoint exactly where the leakage is occurring and how severe it is. it

4 Engine removal - methods and precautions

If you’ve decided the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the vehicle, will be needed. If a shop or garage isn’t available, at the very IeaSt a flat, level, clean work surface made of concrete or asphalt is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and engine before beginning the removal procedure will help keep tools clean and organized.

An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and its

3 Cylinder compression check

Refer to illustration 3.6

1 A compression check will tell you what mechanical condition the upper end (pistons, rings, valves, head gaskets) of the engine is in. Specifi- cally, it can tell you if the’compression is down due to leakage caused by worn piston rings, defective valves and seats or a blown head gasket.

Note: The engine must be at normal operating temperature and the battery must be fully charged for this check.

2 them.

Begin by cleaning

Compressed theareaaround thesparkplugs before you remove air should be used, if available, otherwise a small brush or even a bicycle tire pump will work. The idea is to prevent dirt from getting into the cylinders as the compression check is being done.

3 Remove all of the spark plugs from the engine (see Chapter 1).

4 Block the throttle wide open.’

5 Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse (see Chap- ter 4).

6 Install the compression illustration). gauge in the numberonespark plug hole (see

7 Crank the engine over at least seven compression the gauge. The compression should build up quickly strokes in a healthy and watch engine.

3.6 A compression gauge with a threaded fitting for the spark plug hole is ppferred over the type that requires hand pressure to maintain the seal

2D-10 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

accessories. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.

If the engine is being removed by a novice, a helper should be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of thevehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange for or obtain all of the tools and equipment you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine removal and installation safely andwith relqtive ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a heavy duty floor jack, complete sets of wrenches and sockets as described in the front of this manual, wooden blocks and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil, coolant and gasoline. If the hoist must be rented, be sure to arrange for it in advance and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite a while. A machine shop will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without special equipment. These shops often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consult them before removing the engine in order to accurately rebuild or repair components estimate the amount of time required to that may need work.

Always be extremely careful when removing and installing the engine.

Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take yourtime and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successful-

IY.

5 Engine - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 5.5

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuelsystem. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage wherea naturalgas-typeappliance (suchasa waterheaterorclothesdry- er) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a C/ass B type fire extin- gufsheron hand. Also, theairconditioningsystemisunderhighpressure- have a dealer service department before disconnecting or service any of the hoses station or fittings. discharge the system

Note: Read through the following steps carefully and familiarize yourself with the procedure before beginning work.

Removal

1 On air conditioned models only, have the air conditioning charged by a dealer service department or service station. system dis-

2 Refer to Chapter 4 and relieve the fuel system pressure, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

3 Cover the fenders and cowl and remove the hood (see Chapter 11).

Special pads are available to protect the fenders, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

4 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4).

5 Label the vacuum lines, emissions system hoses, electrical connectors, ground straps and fuel lines to ensure correct reinstallation, then detach them. Pieces of masking tape with numbers or letters written on them work well (see illustration). If there’s any possibility of confusion, make a sketch of the engine compartment wires. and clearly label the lines, hoses

6 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. cooling system (see Chapter 1). and

Drain the

7 Label and detach all coolant hoses from the engine.

8 Remove the coolant reservoir, cooling fan, shroud and radiator (see

Chapter 3).

9 Remove the drivebelt

10 Disconnect and idler, if equipped the fuel lines running from the engine

(see Chapter to the chassis

1).

(see

Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open fittings/lines.

11 Disconnectthe throttle linkage (and TV linkagelcrui~econtrol equipped) from the engine (see Chapters 4 and 7). cable, if

12 Unbolt the power steering pump and set it aside (see Chapter 10).

Leave the lines/hoses attached and make sure the pump is kept in an up; right position in the engine compartment.

13 Unbolt the air conditioning compressor aside. Do not disconnect the hoses.

(see Chapter 3) and set it

14 Drain the engine oil and remove the filter (see Chapter 1).

15 Remove the starter and the alternator (see Chapter 5).

16 Check for clearance and remove the brake master cylinder, if necessary, to allow clearance for the engine [see Chapter 9).

17 Disconnect the exhaust system from the engine (see Chapter 4).

18 If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the torque converter bolts (see Chapter 7, Part 8). Do not remove any of the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts.

19 Support the transmission with a jack. Position a block of wood on the jack head to prevent damage to the transmission.

20 Attach an engine sling or a length of chain to the lifting brackets on the engine.

21 Roll the hoist into position and connect the sling to it. Take up the slack in the sling or chain, but don’t lift the engine. Warning: DONOTplace any part of your body under the engine when it’s supported only by a hoist or other lifting device.

22 Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).

23 Remove the engine mount-to-chassis bolts. Refer to the appropriate

Chapter (2A, 2B or 2C) for the complete illustrations of the engine mounts.

24 Remove the engine-to-transmission bellhousing bolts.

25 Kecheckto mission. Disconnect be sure nothing is still connecting the engine to the tran& anything still remaining.

26 Raise the engine slightly to disengage the mounts. Also, slightly raise the jack supporting the transmission. Move the engine forward, disengagt ing it from the transmission. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, be sure the clutch pressure plate is clearof the transmission input shaft. If thevehicle~sequrpped with anautomatictransmission, the torque converter stays with the transmission and doesn’t makesure stick to the driveplate. Slowly raise the engine out of the vehicle. Check carefully to make sure nothing is hanging up as the hoist is raised.

27 Once the engine assembly is out of the vehicle, be sure the torque converter (automatic transmission) stays in place (clamp a pair of vise- grips to the housing to keep the converter from sliding out).

28 Lower the engine to the ground and support it with blocks of wood.

Remove the clutch and flywheel or driveplate and mount the engine on an engine stand.

installation

29 Check the engine and transmission mounts. If they’re worn or damaged, replace them.

30 If you’re workmg on a manual transmission equipped vehicle, install the clutch and pressure plate (see Chapter 7). Now is agood time to install a new clutch. Apply a dab of high-temperature grease to the input shaft.

5.5 Label each wire before unplugging the connector

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures 2D- 71

The home mechanic is faced with a number of options when performing an engine overhaul. The decision to replace the engine block, piston/ connecting rod assemblies and crankshaft depends on a number of factors, with the number one consideration block. Other considerations are cost, access being the condition to machine of the shop facilities, parts availability, time required to complete the project and the extent of prior mechanical experience.

Some of the rebuilding alternatives include:

Individual parts- If the inspection procedures reveal the engine block and most engine components are in reusable condition, purchasing individual parts may be the most economical shaft and piston/connecting rod assemblies alternative. should

The block, crank- all be inspected carefully. Even if the block shows little wear, the cylinder bores should be surface honed.

Short block -A short block consists of an engine block with a crankshaft and piston/connecting bearings are incorporated and all clearances camshaft, valve train components, rod assemblies cylinder already head(s) installed. will be correct.

All new

The existing and external parts can be bolted to the short blockwith little or no machine shop work necessary.

Long block -A long block consists of a short block plus an oil pump, oil pan, cylinder head(s), valve cover(s), camshaft and valve train components, timing sprockets and chain and timing chain cover. All component< are installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets incorporated throughout. The installation of manifolds and external parts is all that’s necessary.

Give careful thought to which alternative is best for you and discuss the situation with local automotive experienced rebuilders before machine ordering shops, or purchasing auto parts dealers replacement and parts.

31 Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment the transmission. transmissionandengine and mate it to

Caution: DO NOTuse thebellhousingbolts to force the together. If you’re working on an automatic trans mission equipped vehicle, take great care when installing the torque converter, following the procedure outlined in Chapter 78. Line up the holes in the engine mounts with the holes in the frame and install the bolts, tightening them securely.

32 Add coolant, oil, power steering and transmission fluid as needed. If the brake master cylinder was removed, bleed the brakes (see Chapter9).

Recheck the fluid level and test the brakes.

33 Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation of all accessories, then install the hood and test drive the vehicle.

34 If the air conditioning system was discharged, charged and leak tested by the shop that discharged have it evacuated, it. re-

6 Engine rebuilding alt&natives

Engine overhaul - disassembly

Refer to illustrations 7.5a, 7.56 and 7.5~ sequence

1 It’s much easier to disassemble and work on the engine if its mounted on aportableenginestand.Astandcanoften be rentedquitecheaplyfrom an equipment rental yard. Before it’s mounted on astand, the flywheel/drf- veplate should be removed from the engine.

2 If a stand isn’t available, it’s possible to disassemble the engine with it blocked up on the floor. Be extra careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand.

3 If you’re going to obtain a rebuilt engine, all external components must come off first, to be transferred to the replacement engine, just as they will if you’re doing a complete engine overhaul yourself. These include:

Alternator and brackets

Emissions control components

Ignition coil/module assembly, spark plug wires and spark plugs

Thermostat and housing cover

Water pump .

Carburetor/EFl components

Intake/exhaust manifolds

Oil filter

1 Engine mounts

Clutch and flywheel/driveplate

Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during installation. Note the installedposition ofgaskets, seals, spacers, pins, brackets. washers, bolts and other small items.

4 If you’re obtaining a short block, which consists of the engine block, crankshaft: pistons and connecting rods all assembled, then the cylinder head(s), oil pan and oil pump will have to be removed as well. See Engine rebuilding alternatives for additional information regarding the different possibilities to be considered.

5 If you’re planning a complete overhaul, the engine must be disassembled and the internal components der removed in the following general or-

(see illustrations on following page):

2.6L engine

Valve cover

Cylinder head and camshaft

Timing chain housing

Silent shaft chain and sprockets

Timing chain and sprockets

Oil pan

Oil pump

Piston/connecting rod assemblies

Rear main oil seal housing

Crankshaft and main bearings

2.OL and 2.4L engines

Valve cover intake/ejihaust manifolds

Rocker arm assembly

Hydraulic lash adjusters (if equipped)

Camshaft

Timing belt cover

Timing belt and sprockets

Cylinder head

Oil pan

Oil pump

Piston/connecting rod assemblies

Crankshaft and main bearings

3.OL V6 engine

Valve covers

Exhaust manifolds

Rocker arm assemblies and camshafts

Rocker arms

Intake manifold

TimTng belt cover

Timing belt and sprockets

Cylinder heads

Oil pan

Oil pump

Piston/connecting rod assemblies

Rear main oil seal housing

Crankshaft and main bearings

6 Before beginning the disassembly and overhaul procedures, make sure the following items are available. Also, refer to Engine overhaul - reassembly reassembly. sequence for a list of tools and materials needed for engine

Common hand tools

Small cardboard boxes or plastic bags for storing parts

Gasket scraper

Ridge reamer

Vibration damper puller

Micrometers

Telescoping gauges -

Dial indicator set

Valve spring compressor

Cylinder surfacing hone

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

2D-12 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

Note:

Electric drill motor

Tap and die set

Wire brushes

Oil gallery brushes

Cleaning solvent

Cylinder head

Refer to illustrations

7.5a Exploded view of the cylinder block and internal engine components (2.6L engine)

-disassembly

8.2, 8.3 and 8.4

Newandrebuiltcylinderheadsarecommonlyavailableiormosten- gines at dealerships andautoparts cialized tools are necessary stores. Due to the fact that some spe- for the disassembly and inspection procedures, and replacementparts aren’t a/ways readily available. it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase replacement head(s) rather than taking the time to disassemble, inspect aiid recondition the orIginal(

1 Cylinder head djsassembly involves removal of the intake and exhaust valves and related components. The rocker arm assemblies and camshaft(s) must be removed before beginning the cylinder head disassembly procedure (see Part A, 6 or C of this Chapter). Label the parts~or store them separately so they can be reinstalled in their original locations.

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures 2D-13

7.5~ Exploded view of the internal engine components (3.OL engine)

7.5b Exploded view of the cylinder block and internal engine components (2.4L engine)

I Flywheel (manual transmission)

2 Pilot bearing

3 Adapter plate

4 Driveplate (automatic transmission)

Crankshaft

Rear plate ad?pter

7 Bell housing cover

8 Oil seal case

9 Gasket

10 Oil separator

II Rear main oil seal

12 Bearing cap

13 Lower bearing

14 Crankshaft

15 Upper bearing

UPPER BEARING

(GROOVED1

BEARING

BLOCK CAP

20-14 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

8.2 A small plastic bag, with an appropriate label, can be used to store the valve train components so they can be kept together and reinstalled in the original location

2 Before the valves are removed, arrange to label and store them, along with their related components, installed in their original locations so they can be kept separate and re-

(see illustration).

3 Compress the springs on the first valve with a spring compressor remove the keepers and

(see illustration). Carefully release the valve spring compressor and remove the retainer, the spring and the spring seat (if

I used).

4 Pull the valve out of the head, then remove the oil seal from the guide.

If the valve binds in the guide (won’t pull through), push it back into the headanddeburrtheareaaround the keepergroovewithafinefileorwhet- stone (see illustration).

5 Repeattheprocedurefortheremainingvalves. Remembertokeepall the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same locations.

6 Once the valves and related components have been removed and stored in an organized manner, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the en- ginedisassembly procedures and inspection process. before beginning the cylinder head cleaning

9 Cylinder head - cleaning and inspection

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head(s) and related valve train components, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be done during the engine overhaul.

Note: lftheengine wasseveretyoverheafed, fhecylinderheadisprobably warped.

Cleaning

2 Scrape all traces of old gasket material and sealant off the head gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold mating surfaces. Be very careful not to gouge the cylinder head. Special gasket removal solvents that soften gaskets and make removal much easier are available at auto parts stores.

3 Remove all built-up scale from the coolant passages.

4 Run a stiff wire brush through the various holes to remove deposits that may have formed in them.

5 Run an appropriate size tap into each of the threaded holes to remove corrosion and thread sealant that may be present. If compressed air is available, use it to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

6 Clean the camshaft bearing cap bolt threads with a wire brush.

7 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly. Com- pressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes and re- cessedareasareclean. Note: Oecarbonizingchemicalsareavaitableand

8.3 Use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring, then remove the keepers from the valve stem

8.4 If the valve won’t pull through the guide, deburr the edge of the stem end and the area around the top of the keeper groove with a file or whetstone mayprove very useful when cleaning cylinder heads and valve train components. They’re verycausticandshouldbeused with caution. Besure’to follow the instructions on the container.

8 Clean the rocker arms and bearing caps with solvent and dry them thoroughly (don’t mix them upduring the cleaning process). Compressed air will speed the drying process and can be used to clean out the oil passages.

9 Clean all the valve springs, spring seats, keepers and retainers with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Do the components from one valve at s time to avoid mixing up the parts.

10 Scrape off any heavy deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a motorized wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves don’t get mixed up.

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 9.12, 9.14, 9.15, 9.16, 9.17, and 9.18

Note: Be sure to perform at/ of the following inspection procedures before concluding machine shop work is required. Make a list of fhe items that need attention.

Cylinder head

11 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other damage. If cracks are found, check with an automotive machine shop concerning repair. If repair isn’t possible, a new cylinder head should be obtained.

Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures 2D-15

9.12 Check the cylinder head gasket surface for warpage by trying to slip a feeler gauge under the straightedge (see this

Chapter’s Specifications for the maximum warpage allowed and use a feeler gauge of that thickness)

9.14 A dial indicator can be used to determine the valve stem-to-guide clearance (move the valve stem as indicated by the arrows)

VALVE MARGIN WIDTH

0

4

NO MARGIN

NEW VAL’. E WORN VALVE

9.15 Check for valve wear at the points shown here

I Valve tip

2 Keepergroove

3 Stem (least worn area)

4 Stem (most worn area)

5 Valve face

6 Margin

9.16 The margin width on each valve must be as specified (if no margin exists, the valve cannot be reused)

12 Using a straightedge surface for warpage (see and feelergauge, check the head gasket mating illustration). If the warpage exceeds the limit in this Chapter’s Specifications, chine shop. it can be resurfaced at an automotive ma-

Note: If the V6 engine heads are resurfaced, the intake manifold flanges will also require machining.

13 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. they’re pitted, cracked or burned, the head will require valve service that’s

If beyond the scope of the home mechanic.

14 Check the valve stem-to-guide clearance by measuring the lateral movement of the valve stem with a dial indicator attached securely to the head (see illustration). The valve must be in theguideand approximately l/16-inch off the seat. The total valve stem movement indicated by the gauge needle must be divided by two to obtain the actual clearance. After this is done, if there’s still some doubt regarding the condition of the valve guides, they should be checked by an automotive machine shop (the cost

’ should be minimal).

Valves

15 Carefully inspect each valve face for uneven wear, deformation, cracks, pits and burned areas. Checkthe valve stem for scuffing and galling and the neck for cracks. Rotafe the valve and check for any obvious indication that it’s bent. Look for pits and excessive wear on the end of the

9.17 Measure the free length of each valve spring with a dial or vernier caliper stem. The presence of any of these conditions (see illustration) indicates the need for valve service by an automotive machine shop.

16 Measure the margin width on eachvalve(seeiiiustration). Any valve with a margin narrower than specified in this Chapter will have to be replaced with a new one.

Valve components

17 Checkeach valve spring for wear (on the ends) and pits. Measure the free length and compare it to this Chapter’s Specifications (see iiiustra-

2D-16 Chapter 2 Part D General engine overhaul procedures

9.18 Check each valve spring for squareness tlon). Any springs that are shorter than specified have sagged and shouldn’t be reused. The tension of all springs should be checked with a special fixture before deciding they’re suitable for use in a rebuilt engine

(take the springs to an automotive machine shop for this check).

18 Stand each spring on a fiat surface and check it for squareness (see illustration). If any of the springs are distorted or sagged, replace all of them with new parts.

19 Check the spring retainers and keepers for obvious wear and cracks.

Any questionable parts should be replaced with new ones, as extensive damage will occur if they fail during engine operation.

20 If the inspection process indicates the valve components are in generally poor condition and worn beyond the limits specified, which is usually the case in an engine that’s being overhauled, reassemble the valves in the cylinder head and refer to Section 11 for valve servicing recommendations.

10 Valves - servicing

1 Because of the complex nature of the job and the special tools and equipment needed, servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the valve guides, commonly known asavalve job, should bedone by a professional.

2 The home mechanic can remove and disassemble the head, do ihe initial cleaning and inspection, then reassemble service department or an automotive machine and deliver it to a dealer shop for the actual service work. Doing the inspection will enable you to see what condition the head and valvetrain components are in and will ensure that you know what work and new parts are required when dealing with an automotive machine shop.

3 The dealer service department, or automotive machine shop, will remove the valves and springs, recondition or replace the valves and valve seats, recondition the valve guides, check and replace the valve springs, rotators, spring retainers and keepers (as necessary), seals with new ones, reassemble the valve components replace the valve and make sure the installed spring height is correct. The cylinder head gasket surface will also be resurfaced if its warped.

4 Afterthevalvejobhasbe