V-Series Dobby Loom User`s Manual

V-Series Dobby Loom
User’s Manual
AVL Looms
3851 Morrow Lane, Suite 9
Chico, CA 95928-8305
U.S.A.
530 893-4915
530 893-1372 fax #
[email protected]
www.avlusa.com
Version 1
March 2010
V-SERIES - TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
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About AVL1-1
The V-Series Design Concept1-1
SET UP
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Receiving Your New Loom
Shipping Damage
Assembled or Not
Unpacking an Assembled Loom
2-1
2-1
2-1
2-2
LOOM ASEMBLY
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Before You Begin
Tools
About Those Nuts and Bolts
Figure 3-1 - Assembling Lower Left
Back Corner
Left and Right Side Frame Assembly
Figure 3-2 - Left Side Frame Hardware
and Parts
Figure 3-3 - Right Side Frame Hardware
and Parts
Figure 3-4 - Dobby Cam Cylinder
Installation
Figure 3-5 - Cam/Pulley Assembly
Installed
Install the Lower Rear Cross Member
Figure 3-6 - Set Both Frames
Side-by-Side on the Front Verticals
Figure 3-7 - Cross Member Mounting
Hole Locations
Install the Cloth Storage Beam
Figure 3-8 - Installation of the Cloth
Storage Beam
Install the Lower Front Cross Member
Figure 3-9
Install the Brake Pedal
Figure 3-10a - Brake Pedal Mounting
Hardware (lower beam position, pedal
to right hand side)
Figure 3-10b - Brake Pedale Mounting
Hardware (upper beam position, pedal
to left hand side)
Install the E-Lift Supports and Spring
Anchor
Figure 3-11 - Location and Installation
of Crossmembers and Spring Support
3-1
3-1
3-2
3-2
3-3
3-3
3-4
3-5
3-6
3-7
3-7
3-8
3-9
3-9
3-10
3-11
3-12
3-12
3-12
3-13
3-14
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V-SERIES - TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Page TOC-
Install Central Support Cross Member
Squaring the Completed Frame
Install the Harness Pulley Support
Assembly
Figure 3-12 - Mounting the Hardware
Pulley Support Assembly
Install the Dobby Back (for your
Compu-Dobby)
Figure 3-13 - Installation of the Dobby
Head (dobby back)
Install Harness Assemblies and
Springs
Make Texsolv Harness Assemblies
Figure 3-14 - Texsolv Heddle Installation
Install the Harnesses and Springs
Figure 3-15 - Harness System with
Springs
Install the Beater Assembly
Figure 3-16 - Standard Beater Support
Install the Warp Beam/s
Figure 3-17 - Installation of Two Plain
Beams and Handles
Figure 3-18 - Installation of the Second
Separation Beam Brackets, Separation
Beams, and Breast Beam
Installation of the Breast Beam and
Separation Beam/s
Brackets for Second Warp Separation
Beam
Mount the Brake Cable System
Figure 3-19 - Installation of the Brake
Pedal - Left Side
Figure 3-20 - Tension Adjustment for
Brake Pedal
Install the Shelf
Installation of the E-Lift II
Install the E-Lift II Motor Box
Install the Cam-to-Motor-Cable
Install the Cam-Cylinder-to-Slide-Plate
Cable
Install the Spring and the Return Cord
Completing Installation of the E-Lift II
Setting the Home Position
Selection of Single or Double Action
Mode
Required Maintenance for the E-Lift II
3-15
3-15
3-16
3-17
3-18
3-18
3-19
3-20
3-20
3-21
3-22
3-23
3-24
3-26
3-27
3-28
3-29
3-29
3-30
3-30
3-31
3-32
3-33
3-33
3-33
3-34
3-34
3-35
3-36
3-36
3-36
V-SERIES - TABLE OF CONTENTS
WARPING THE
PLAIN BEAM
WARPING THE
SECTIONAL BEAM
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Suggested Maintenance for the E-Lift II
Installation of the Compu-Dobby
Figure 3-21 - Solenoid Tips Aligned
Correctly
3-37
3-37
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Creating Two Crosses
Figure - Threading Cross / Raddle Cross
Securing the Crosses
Removing the Warp from the Warping
Board
Adjusting the Tension Device
Attaching the Raddle
Winding the Apron
Attaching the Warp to the Apron
Figure
Inserting Sticks in the Raddle Cross
Feeding the Raddle
Figure
Preparing the Paper
Figure - Prepared Paper with Folding Edge
Winding the Warp
Threading Cross
Removing the Raddle
Using Two Beams
When Do You Need to Tension Your
Warps Separately?
Setting Two Beams
Figure - Warp Routing
More Than Two Warps, Only One Beam?
Separate Tensioning!
4-1
4-1
4-2
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Sectional Beam Calculation
Extension Cords
Feeding the Spool Rack
The Tension Box
Tension Box Heddle Installation
Instructions
Figure - Tension Box
Positioning the Tension Box
Threading the Tension Box
Winding the Warp
Figure - Winding on the Warp
Adjusting the Size of the Section
Figure
Counting Turns or Yardage
5-1
5-3
5-3
5-4
3-37
4-2
4-2
4-3
4-3
4-3
4-3
4-4
4-4
4-4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-6
4-6
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4-7
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4-8
4-8
5-4
5-5
5-5
5-6
5-8
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5-9
5-9
5-10
Page TOC-
V-SERIES - TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Figure - Attaching Yardage Counter
to Tension Box
Creating the Cross
Inserting Sticks in the Threading Cross
Readjusting the Tension
Combining Sectional and Plain Warping
5-11
5-11
5-12
5-12
5-13
THREADING,
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SLEYING, & TYING •
ON
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Preparation for Threading
Threading the Harnesses
Unused Heddles
Sleying the Reed
Tying On to the Apron
Figure - Warp Routing
Figure
Tying On to An Old Warp
6-1
6-1
6-2
6-2
6-2
6-3
6-4
6-4
LOOM CONTROLS
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E-Lift II
Brake System
Cloth Storage System
Removable Breast and Separation Beam
Swinging Beater
Sectional Beam
Plain Beam
Dobby Head and Compu-Dobby
Harness Springs
Harnesses
Table 1 / Harnesses
7-1
7-1
7-2
7-2
7-2
7-3
7-3
7-3
7-4
7-4
7-5
LOOM
MAINTENANCE
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Tightening the Bolts
Lubrication and Cleaning
Cleaning the E-Lift Filters
Checking Cords and Cables
Tool Kit and Spare Parts
8-1
8-1
8-1
8-1
8-2
AVL CUSTOMER
SERVICE
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AVL Warranties
AVL Returns Policy
9-1
9-1
Page TOC-
V-SERIES - INTRODUCTION
About AVL
AVL Looms has been in the business of designing and
building some of the world’s finest handweaving looms
since 1976.
Jon Violette, the “V” in AVL, initiated Ahrens and Violette Looms when he approached Jim Ahrens about a
partnership in 1977. Mr. Violette, an industrial management professional, had discovered Ahrens’ work through
his sister who ran the Pacific Basin School of Textiles in
Berkeley, where Ahrens was a volunteer advisor.
The two men worked together in the Bay Area for three
years until Violette moved the business to Chico, where
it officially became known as AVL Looms Inc., and has
operated ever since.
In 1982, Mr. Violette was instrumental in the development of the first computerized dobby, then called the
“Apple Dobby”. He retired from active life in the company in 1987. We have christened this new V-Series Loom
in recognition of Jon’s contribution to handweaving.
Over the years, many people, from customers to staff,
have offered suggestions that have helped us improve
our products. Once known for our production looms, AVL
has broadened its line considerably and we now offer
customers a full spectrum of fine weaving equipment,
ranging from our small Home Looms, to our Industrial
Dobby Looms, Rug Looms, and Jacquards.
The V-Series
Design Concept
We wanted to design a loom with a dynamic mix of
simplicity and sophistication, a “no frills” approach for
weavers who want complex weaving capability in a more
fundamental package. We’ve streamlined this loom so
you get a lot of harnesses and strength on a small rugged loom.
Page 1-
V-SERIES - SET UP
RECEIVING YOUR
NEW LOOM
If your loom was assembled by AVL, it will have arrived
on a pallet. Looms delivered outside the continental
U.S. will probably be further contained within a protective framework. Accessories too large to include with
the loom will be located in supplementary boxes. Looms
delivered knocked-down will arrive in several large and
small boxes.
Please confirm that you received the number of boxes
indicated on your copy of the Bill of Lading. If any are
missing, please call the delivery company, as you may
have parts still roaming the countryside.
SHIPPING
DAMAGE
Rarely is a loom damaged in shipping, however, if you do
discover damage, please call the delivery company immediately. Then call us at 530 893-4915.
Freight haulers are not agents of AVL and only the consignee, that is you, the customer, may file a damage
claim. It’s best if you save your packing materials; some
freight companies wish to examine them as part of their
claims process. Photographs of the damaged boxes and
parts are also beneficial.
AVL will immediately replace the damaged parts and invoice you for them. You, in turn, should present the bill
to the freight company. They, in turn, will reimburse us
(they always have!). It’s inconvenient for all of us, but
we’ll make an extra effort to get your replacements to
you quickly.
ASSEMBLED OR
NOT
If you purchased your loom pre-assembled, please proceed now to the instructions Unpacking an Assembled
Loom. If you requested your loom knocked-down, move
on to Assembly on page 3-1.
Page 2-
V-SERIES - SET UP
UNPACKING AN
ASSEMBLED LOOM
If we assembled your loom at our facility, it will arrive on
a pallet, wholly or mostly in one unit.
1)
Cut and remove the plastic strapping.
2)
Use a screwdriver or other flat implement (not
a knife, please!) to separate the top and bottom
trays from the cardboard sides.
3)
Pull off the cardboard top cap.
4)
Lift the sides up and over the loom (they are joined
into a single piece).
5)
Untape and remove any ancillary boxes. We try
always to leave a tab at the end of each piece of
tape, so you can pull it off rather than cut it.
6)
Get a helper to aid you in lifting the loom off its
plywood skids.
7)
Move the loom to its permanent location.
8)
Carefully untape the beater, harnesses, and all
other mechanisms.
9)
Replace any cables that have obviously been dislodged.
10) Carefully check the loom for damage.
Page 2-
V-SERIES - SET UP
Once you’ve installed the Compu-Dobby, your loom will
be weaving ready. We’ll explain the Compu-Dobby installation later, but first let’s make a quick inspection.
You may wish to consult the section on Loom Controls if
any of our part names are unfamiliar to you.
1)
Remove the Shelf Retention Pin at the rear of the
Harness Pulley Supports. Slide the shelf out and
set it aside.
2)
Working down from the top of the loom, please
verify that:
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
f)
g)
h)
i)
3)
All Harness Cables are located in their pulleys.
All Harnesses are attached to Harness Cables.
Dobby Cables are not tangled in the Dobby
Head.
Harness Springs are connected between
Spring Levers.
Treadle Cables are connected and strung over
pulleys.
Treadles operate freely.
Swinging Beater swings smoothly, without
interference from adjacent parts.
Cloth Advance Handle engages with Cloth
Storage Beam Ratchet and advances the
beam.
Depressed Brake Pedal(s) releases tension on
cables.
Replace the shelf.
Page 2-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
BEFORE YOU
BEGIN
Let us offer a few words of encouragement. You may be
a little intimidated by the prospect of assembling your
new loom — perhaps you don’t consider yourself very
mechanical or are afraid you’ll make some horrendous,
irremediable error that will finally prove to the world that
you are a complete technical incompetent. Relax; you
do many things in your daily life that are more complicated and technically challenging than the thing you’re
about to do. If at any point you become disoriented,
unsure, or outright confused, call us at 530 893-4915.
We’re here to help. If you’re nervous that you might
be asking a dumb question, console yourself with the
knowledge that with absolute certainty someone else has
already asked it. The only dumb question, of course,
is the one not asked. Besides, we know you’re brilliant
— you bought an AVL!
There is a definite advantage in assembling your own
loom. You’ll come to know it very well, sooner than you
otherwise would, and the better you know your loom, the
better you’ll be able to use and maintain it.
TOOLS
First, you’ll need tools:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
Hammer
Socket Wrench with 1/2”, 7/16”, and 9/16” sockets
Large Bladed Screwdriver
Medium Phillips Screwdriver
Large Phillips Screwdriver
Scissors
Crescent Wrench
Level (a small one will do)
Occasional Extra Pair of Hands
Packed with your hardware are a few additional tools
that you may not have. They’ll be there when you need
them.
Once you’ve gathered your tools, open all the boxes and
lay the contents out just as you find them. Please DO
NOT REMOVE the tape from any of the components
until we tell you. Please, too, leave the hardware bags
unopened until they are required. Clear away all your
packing materials — they’ll just be in the way. It’s best if
you keep your work area as organized and free of clutter
as possible.
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
You’ll need a space about 5’ x 5’ to assemble your loom.
In addition, a conveniently located desk or table will
come in very handy for several of the operations.
Depending on your particular style of work, the entire
assembly operation will take between three and eight
hours.
ABOUT THOSE
NUTS AND BOLTS
NOTE: Given the limited space provided by the nut access holes, it’s a little challenging getting the nuts onto
the bolt ends. It gets easier with practice. You’ll find it
helpful to push each bolt in just until it just appears in
the access hole. Move the nut into position over the end
of the bolt and back it with your finger. Push the bolt
in a little further and seat the nut. Slowly turn the bolt
clockwise and when the nut engages, tighten it most,
but not all, the way down. It’s best to leave everything a
little loose at first.
Finally, if your fingers are just too big to comfortably manipulate the nut, try backing it with a flat bladed screwdriver.
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
LEFT AND RIGHT
SIDE FRAME
ASSEMBLY (see
Figures 3-1 and 3-2)
1)
Locate the Hardware Packets that came with the
Frame parts and sort them to check that all parts
are present and accessible during assembly.
2)
Now that your Right and Left Frames are assembled, you will install the Dobby Cam/Pulley Assembly. This Assembly provides mechanical advantage
to the right treadle, greatly reducing the amount of
effort required for harness lifting. Please refer to
Figures 2 through 5, during this Assembly.
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
Page 3-
3)
Locate the Right Side Frame you just assembled.
This side is distinguished from the Left Side by the
small block mounted to #13 and two holes running
through parts #3 and #4. Check that part #3 is
loose enough to be pivoted on its axis.
4)
Locate the Cam/Pulley Assembly. Loosen the Lock
Collars and withdraw all parts from the Axle. Be
sure to take these parts off in their precise order,
so that you can replace them exactly as they were
shipped to you.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Make sure there isn’t anything (string, tape)
lodging the Axle in the cam.
5)
Insert the Axle from your left side, into the mounting hole in the front face of in part #3 (see Figure
3-4). Push it through the hole until about 1/2 of
the Axle is coming out the other side of #3.
6)
Rotate #3 about 20 degrees, so that the free end
of the Axle points to the outside of the loom and
toward you.
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
7)
Page 3-
Thread the Cam/Pulley Assembly and wooden pulley back onto the Axle. Do not tighten any of the
Lock Collars at this time. From left to right, the
parts should be mounted as follows:
a)1
Lock Collar
b)
Right Side Frame #3
c)
2
Lock Collars
d)1
Cam/Pulley Assembly
e)
2
Lock Collars
f)1
Return Pulley
g)
2
Lock Collars
8)
Pivot #3 back into position so that the free end of
the Axle now points to the mounting hole in #4.
9)
Push the Axle through the hole in #4, centering
it between the two verticals. Mount the last Lock
Collar on the Axle to secure with both ends of the
rod in their respective holes.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
10) Position the first and last Lock Collars against the
face of their respective frame members and tighten
them into place. The other parts will be positioned
and tightened later.
Assembly of the Side Frames is complete!
INSTALL THE
LOWER REAR
CROSS MEMBER
(#17) (see Figure
3-7)
In the next stage of your loom assembly, you’ll attach
the various members that connect the Left and Right
Side Frames. Please refer to Figure 3-7 for parts identification and placement.
The tools you already have at hand will suffice.
1)
Please locate:
a)
Lower Back (#17)
b)
Cross Member Hardware Pack
2)
Sort the hardware.
3)
Select four 3-1/4” hex bolts, with square nuts. Remove the nuts.
4)
Brace both side frames on their feet, about 2’
apart, with their access holes facing inward. Put
yourself at the front of the frames.
5)
Pivot both frames forward 90 degrees so that they
lay on their Front Verticals (#2) (see Figure 3-6).
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
6)
Locate the mounting holes for the Lower Back (as
shown in Figure 3-7), between Parts #1 and #11.
7)
Insert the four bolts in their holes, but not so far
that they protrude out the other side.
8)
Position the Lower Back between the two Side
Frames, at the mounting holes, and orient it so
that the access holes are facing the floor when the
loom is upright.
9)
Push the bolts into the access holes at both ends of
the Lower Back; add the nuts and tighten to secure
the bolt, but not all the way. Final tightening will
occur when you square the finished frame.
10) The frame is now self-supporting. Put it back on
its feet.
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL THE
CLOTH STORAGE
BEAM (see Figure
3-8)
The Cloth Storage beam MUST be installed at this point
in the assembly process. Its Axle fits into holes in the
Side Frames and once the frames are joined further, it
will be impossible to add the beam (refer to Figure 3-8).
1)
Locate the Beam mounting holes in each Side
Frame. These are about 1” in diameter and lay
opposite one another in the Mid Front Horizontals
(#7, #13). They are drilled completely through
the frames.
2)
Locate the Cloth Storage Beam. It has a metal
ratchet on one end. Find, too, the Cloth Advance
Handle.
3)
You’ll see that the Advance Handle has an oblong
hole at one end. Fit this hole over the Cloth Storage Beam Axle, next to the ratchet, with the black
handle pointing to the interior of the loom.
Page 3-
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL THE
LOWER FRONT
CROSS MEMBER
(#16) (see Figure
3-9)
Page 3-10
4)
Now, with the Handle Assembly to the right side,
gently ease the two Side Frames apart and slip
both ends of the Beam into their mounting holes.
5)
Allow the handle to rest atop the small block installed in the Right Side Frame. Be sure to hold
the Cloth Storage Pawl out of the way, when installing the Beam.
6)
Screw this assembly into place, in the pre-drilled
hole and tighten securely.
7)
Push the side frames together. CAUTION: Until
the Lower Front Assembly is installed, take care
not to dislodge the Beam!
1)
Locate the Lower Front Assembly Cross Member
(#16) and Hardware.
2)
Select four hex bolts and remove the nuts. Identify the Lower Front mounting holes on the diagram,
located at the base of #2R and #2L.
3)
Move again to the front of the loom; this time,
pivot it away from you and lay it on its Rear Verticals. You may want to rope the two sides together
near the Cloth Storage Beam to lend more stability
during this maneuver.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
4)
Place the mounting bolts, from the outside, in the
bottom holes in the Front Verticals, but not so far
that they are protruding into the interior of the
loom.
5)
Bring the Lower Front Cross Member into position, with the access holes facing the bottom of the
loom.
6)
Push the mounting bolts all the way into the access
holes and tighten with the nuts, just enough to secure the assembly.
7)
For easier installation in the next step, leave the
loom on its Rear Verticals for now. The Frame is
now secure enough to support the Cloth Storage
Beam in place.
Page 3-11
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL THE
BRAKE PEDAL (see
Figure 3-10)
Page 3-12
1)
If you will be using a single Warp Beam, you’ll
want to mount the Brake Pedal on the left side
of the loom. If you have two Warp Beams, you’ll
need to mount two pedals; one left, one right. If
this is the case, note that the Left Brake Pedal is
smaller than the right because of its proximity to
the E-Lift Spring Lever Assembly.
2)
Locate the Brake Pedal Assembly (Assemblies).
3)
Remove and set aside the nut, washers, and carriage bolt. Leave the smaller bolt assembly at the
end of the pedal in place.
4)
Find the Left Brake Pedal mounting hole in #16;
located near the bottom of the Left Castle Vertical
and immediately above the access hole.
5)
Orient this assembly inside the loom, at the mounting hole in the Left Castle (#16), with the long end
of the pedal pointing to the front of the loom.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
6)
Insert this assembly through the mounting hole,
using light hammer taps to seat the bolt, if necessary. Mount the hardware and Brake Pedal onto
the bolt as follows, securing tightly with the nylock:
Left Side Pedal:
7)
For the Right Side Pedal (optional, for second
beam), locate the hole at the bottom of #4. Install
it to the inside of the #4 vertical, inserting the
carriage bolt from the outside. Hardware will be
mounted in this order:
Right Side Pedal:
INSTALL THE
E-LIFT SUPPORTS
(#19, #20) AND
SPRING ANCHOR
(see Figure 3-7)
Carriage Bolt
Side Frame
Washer
Brake Pedal
Washer
Low-Profile Nylock
Carriage Bolt
Side Frame
Washer
Jamb Nut
Hex Nut
Washer
Brake Pedal
Washer
Nylock
1)
The Front Cross Member (#19) has two holes
through the flat sides. Orient this piece between
Verticals #3 (right side) and #12 (left side), with
the rectangular wooden block pointing down and to
the inside of the loom.
2)
Select two attachment bolts and remove the nuts.
Insert them partially, as you have done previously,
and, with the Front Cross member in place, install
the bolts and secure with the nuts.
3)
The Rear Cross Member (#20) has the same block,
with more hardware (for the E-Lift Spring Lever)
and a second, oblong block, with eye hooks in it,
on the top. Position this piece between Verticals
#4 and #16. Again, point the wooden block down
and all hooks and hardware to face Support #19.
This will position the oblong block on top of the
support.
Page 3-13
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
Page 3-14
4)
Select two more attachment bolts and remove the
nuts. Insert them partially, as you have done previously, and slip the Rear Cross Member into place.
Install the bolts and secure with the nuts.
5)
If you have not already done so, take the wrapping
off the Spring Support, freeing it from #20. It
is bolted loosely in place. Remove the bolt and
hardware mounted in the middle of #19. Pivot
the Spring Support to bring the free end over the
hole in the center/top of #19. Re-install the bolt,
bringing it in from the bottom, up through #19 and
the Support. The nut and washer will nest in the
inset opening. Tighten both bolts firmly into place
(see Figure 11).
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL CENTRAL
SUPPORT CROSS
MEMBER (#18)
(see Figure 3-11)
SQUARING THE
COMPLETED
FRAME
6)
You’re quickly becoming a Master Loom Builder;
have you noticed? Give yourself a quick pat on the
back.
1)
Locate the Central Support Cross Member #18
and prepare two mounting bolts, with washers and
square nuts for mounting.
2)
Position this Cross Member as follows:
a)
Between #3 and #12.
b) At the two holes located just above the Front
Spring Cross Member (#19).
c)
With the access holes at either end pointing
to the back of the loom.
d) This will place #12 directly over the access
hole for the second bolt that secures the
Spring Support in place.
3)
Insert the bolts, with washer, from the outside,
through the ends and secure with the nuts. Tighten securely.
4)
One more set of Cross Members and you’ll be
hanging the Dobby, then the beater and harnesses.
Soon, you’ll be finished!
Now that you have completely assembled the Loom
Frame, it is time to assure that the frame is square and
level. Tightening of all bolts for the Frame Sides and
Cross Members has been put off for this procedure.
Please make a note of this process, as it is an important part of the maintenance of your loom. The many
features of this loom will perform better and give more
years of service if this process becomes a part of your
regular loom maintenance.
1)
Using a tape measure, note these measurements:
a)
The distance from the inside corner of the
Rear Left Vertical (5L) to the inside corner of
the Front Right Vertical (2R).
b) The distance from the inside corner of the
Rear Right Vertical (5R) to the inside corner
of the Front Left Vertical (2L).
Page 3-15
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL THE
HARNESS PULLEY
SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY (#21
AND #22)
(see Figure 3-12)
Page 3-16
2)
These two measurements should match. If they
do not, you will need to adjust the frame slightly,
by pushing and pulling at the corners, until they do
match. The Frame will then be square.
3)
Now, using a level, check the verticals at the corners and the cross pieces at bottom and top. Depending on the flooring, you may need to use
shims under the four corner verticals in order to
achieve level.
4)
Once the loom is square and level, then you must
check and tighten all bolts and nuts that connect
the frame pieces.
5)
Over time, due to the shaking and movement the
loom experiences during use, these connections
will shake loose, requiring periodic checking and
tightening. Make a check of these components a
regular part of your loom maintenance.
1)
Locate this assembly. It is comprised of two pieces
of wood (Parts #21 and #22), a little wider than
your loom, held together by three sets of pulleys,
two sets of which are close to one end. The entire
assembly is held together by shipping wrap and
tape. Do not unwrap it until the unit is in place
and ready to secure.
2)
From your hardware pack, select four 1/4” x 5-1/2”
Flat Head Machine Screws and 1/4” Square Nuts.
3)
Orient the Harness Pulley Support Assembly on top
of the top horizontals, #10 and #15, so that the
end with the two rows of pulleys is at the right side
of the loom and the small plaque with your loom’s
serial number facing to the front of the loom. It
should overhang about 4” on the right side (as
shown in Figure 3-12).
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
4)
Align the four mounting holes in the Pulley Supports with those in the Top Horizontals. If you are
not able to align the holes without removing the
packing strips, take extra caution to move the
Horizontals into place without pulling them
apart.
5)
Cut and carefully remove the packing tape, if you
have not already done so.
6)
From above, insert the Flat Head Machine Screws
into the four mounting holes, punching holes in
the plastic. Now remove the plastic and add the
square nuts. Tighten securely.
7)
Remove the top shelf held between #21 and #22
by pulling the retainer pin (located at the back of
the rear Harness Pulley Support) and sliding the
board out to one side. Set the shelf aside while the
harnesses are mounted into place.
Page 3-17
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
8)
INSTALL THE
DOBBY BACK (FOR
YOUR COMPUDOBBY) (see Figure
3-13)
Page 3-18
Take a moment to breath and appreciate your
progress. You’ve achieved something like the
pinnacle of the assembly process. Everything’s a
down hill coast from here.
Your Compu-Dobby is comprised of two parts:
•
The Dobby Back –This is the mechanical side of the
Dobby; the flat board to which are mounted the
Dobby Cables, Slide Rods, and Slide Plate.
•
The Compu-Dobby – This is the electrical side of
the Dobby; containing the solenoids and processor
that enable the commands from your computer to
fire the correct solenoids. This is mounted to the
Dobby Back for safe shipment, in a very special
box. Please, if at all possible, retain this box, in
the event the Compu-Dobby must be returned to
AVL Looms for warranty work or servicing.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL HARNESS
ASSEMBLIES AND
SPRINGS
1)
Remove the Compu-Dobby from the Dobby Back,
by removing the four black thumbscrews at the
sides. Replace the thumbscrews in their holes and
store the Compu-Dobby in the shipping box for the
time being. The Dobby Cables are now exposed.
Please exercise caution to avoid creating bends in
these Dobby Cables.
2)
Figure 3-13 shows the location of the three mounting holes pre-drilled in the right side castle. Note
that three mounting bolts protrude from the back
of the Dobby Back. If any of these have come
loose, you’ll need to reposition them from inside
the Dobby Box. Note that each bolt head seats in
a recess in the wood.
3.)
Remove the nuts and washers from the mounting
bolts and carefully align the Dobby Back over the
corresponding holes located in the right side of the
loom frame (as shown in Figure 3-13). You can
drape the bundled harness cables up and over the
top of the pulleys located directly above the Dobby
Back.
4)
From inside the frame, slip a washer onto each bolt
end, then thread on a hex nut. Tighten with a 1/2”
socket.
It’s time to add some of the muscle and sinew to your
loom: the Harness Cables, Harnesses, and Harness
Springs. If you ordered your loom with Texsolv heddles,
you’ll need to assemble your harnesses now. Please follow the directions below. If your loom is equipped with
metal heddles, proceed immediately to step #1 of the
harness installation instructions. You may wish to save
space by mounting the Harness Frames as they are completed.
Page 3-19
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
MAKE TEXSOLV
HARNESS
ASSEMBLIES
1)
Locate the …
a)
Harness Sticks
b) Harness Wires
c)
Texsolv Heddles
d) Harness Cables
e)
Harness Springs
2)
The sticks are divided into two groups: top and
bottom sticks. The hooks on the top sticks are
closer to the center. The hooks in the bottom
sticks then, are closer to the edges.
3)
Select one top and one bottom stick. Lay them on
a table top parallel to one another, about 12” apart.
Orient them so that the hooks point away from the
opposite stick.
HARNESS WIRES
Page 3-20
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL THE
HARNESSES AND
SPRINGS (see
Figure 3-15)
4)
Thread 50 heddles onto the sticks (we provide 50
heddles per harness, plus 200 extra). Move all of
them to the center, positioning two at each of the
outer ends of the sticks.
5)
Select two harness wires and slide one through the
end hole of the top stick so that the copper fitting
at the end of the harness wire is at the top. Insert
the blank end of the wire through the end hole of
the bottom stick.
6)
Add the second harness wire. Move one heddle out
to either end of the harness, immediately adjacent
to the harness wire. These two heddles will be
helpful in maintaining the rectangular shape of the
harness until and after it is hung in place.
7)
If you wish to save space by mounting each
harness as it is assembled, proceed to the next
section now, for instructions on hanging the
harness and installing the springs.
The Harness Pulley Support has a top that serves as a
shelf and slides out to give you access to the pulleys. If
you have not done so by now, please remove the shelf
by pulling the pin in the center rear Harness Pulley Support and sliding the shelf out to one side.
8)
Locate the bundle of harness cables. Remove the
ties and select one. You’ll see that each cable has
two terminal ends, a long and a short, each ending
in a loop. A small berkeley clip is mounted in the
loop at the opposite end of the cable.
9)
It will be easier to begin by hanging the rearmost
harness and then, mounting each in succession,
moving towards the front. Take the Dobby Cable
nearest to the rear of the loom. Notice it ends in a
small loop.
Page 3-21
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
10) It will be necessary to squeeze the sides of the
berkeley clip, to expose the hooked ends and allow the insertion of the Dobby Cable loop into the
hook. You may wish to use pliers for this operation. Once you have attached the Harness Cable to
the Dobby Cable. Lay the cable over the rearmost
pulley at the right hand side. Now, orient the longest end of the cable over the pulley furthest from
the Dobby and the shortest leg over the pulley in
the middle set.
Page 3-22
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
11) Check that the cable is not twisted on itself — this
will cause problems when you are weaving.
12) Take up the Harness Frame you assembled earlier.
Orient the frame so the hooks that are set closest
together are at the TOP of the frame.
13) Hang the harness from the cable you just installed,
looping the two ends of the Harness Cables onto
the eyehooks.
14) Locate two harness springs. Fasten one of these
springs to the bottom eyehook on the right side of
the harness and loop the other end over the correlating eyehook mounted on the right side of the
Spring Support immediately below the harnesses.
Repeat for the left-hand spring.
15) This completes the installation of one Harness Assembly. Now repeat steps 1 through 14 for each
remaining harness. Check your work periodically;
it’s easy to connect the wrong harnesses or springs
into the wrong set of eyehooks.
INSTALL THE
BEATER
ASSEMBLY (see
Figure 3-16)
Your V-Series Loom comes equipped with a Bottom
Swing Beater.
1)
Locate the box containing the Beater Assembly.
Attached to the assembly are bags with mounting
hardware. In them you will find:
a)
Beater Supports (2)
b) Shuttle Race
c)
Beater Top
d) Beater Legs (2)
e)
Reed (1)
f)
Reed Support (1)
g) Hardware Package (1)
2)
Locate the two Beater Supports and find the predrilled holes, one each, on the Lower Horizontals,
#1 and #11, just below and forward of where the
Verticals, #3 and #12, meet the Lower Horizontals.
There is one for each side of the loom, so we’ll
start on the right side. Please refer to Figure 3-16
for correct placement.
Page 3-23
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
Page 3-24
3)
Orient the right-hand side support so that the
round spacer and metal pins are facing toward the
side of the loom and the spacer with the threaded
rod and the metal bracket is to the front of the
loom. The metal bracket will overlap the Lower
Horizontal.
4)
Remove the lock nut and washer from the bolt in
the rear spacer and insert the bolt through the
right Lower Horizontal. Slip the washer and nut
back on and tighten the nut just to the point where
is almost cinches the two parts together. You
want to leave it a little bit loose so that the Beater
Support can pivot during adjustment. Since the
nut is a locknut, it will not loosen.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
5)
Now locate two 1-1/2” long screws located in the
beater hardware package. Position the metal
bracket that’s attached to the front of the Beater
Support over the two pre-drilled holes and insert
the screws. Tighten them down.
6)
Repeat this process for the left side.
7)
Position the Shuttle Race at the front of the loom,
so that it is resting on the Horizontals, #7 and
#13, above the Beater Supports. Orient it so that
the lengthwise groove that runs along one side is
to the top and facing toward the rear of the loom.
Now empty your hardware bag onto a table top.
Pick up the four 1/4” x 2-3/4” carriage bolts with
washers and hex nuts.
8)
Now locate the Beater Legs. Notice that they have
been marked to designate left and right. Using
each leg, orient them so that, with the bottom
slot riding in the center pin in the Beater Support,
the tapered side of each leg faces away from the
loom. As shown in Figure 3-16, insert the bolts,
from the front of the race, through the race, and
into the two corresponding holes in each Beater
Leg. Attach the washers and nuts and tighten only
slightly. Repeat this procedure for the other side
of the loom making sure that the tapered side of
the leg is always facing away from the loom. Attach the washers and nuts leaving them loose for
the moment.
9)
Center your reed in the slot.
10) Now orient your Beater Top so that the groove is
facing down and the cut outs at either end are facing toward the rear of the loom. Insert 1/4” x 2”
carriage bolts into the holes located at each end,
starting them from the front. Placing the Beater
Top over the race and reed, slide the bolts into the
slots at the top of the Beater Legs and once the
reed is securely inside the groove in the Beater
Top, attach the washers and wing nuts and tighten
them to hold, but wait for adjustment in the next
step before tightening fully.
Page 3-25
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
11) Center the Beater Assembly in the loom.
a)
Place a level in the center of the race and adjust the height of each side, using the black
adjustment knob at the metal plate on the
Beater Support. These enable you to raise or
lower the race on either side, to ensure the
race is level.
b) Once the race is level, holding the Beater Top
at its center and push the Beater all the way
back, to meet the Beater Bumpers. Ensure
that both sides of the Beater are touching the
bumpers.
c)
Check that the legs are spaced equally from
the outer sides of the loom. Adjust as needed, with slight horizontal movements to the
Beater Top. This insures that the legs will not
rub on the loom frame.
d) Continue holding the Beater against the
bumpers and tighten the bolts that attach
the Beater Legs to the Shuttle Race and the
Beater Top to the legs.
INSTALL THE
WARP BEAM/S
(see Figure 3-17)
For ease of installation, you may wish to jump to the
sections in this manual for installation of the E-Lift II
and Compu-Dobby, prior to proceeding with the install of
your Warp Beam/s. Otherwise, later in this process, you
may find it necessary to remove these beams for easier
access to the loom. Once you have completed those
steps, return to this section and proceed from here.
The loom is designed to carry two Plain Warp Beams or a
single Sectional Beam. Plain Beams may be used in either the upper or lower position. A Sectional Beam may
only be mounted in the upper position.
If you intend to use two beams simultaneously, an additional assembly needs to be fixed to the Rear Verticals.
We’ll explain all that a bit later.
If you are using a single Plain Beam or a Sectional Beam,
install it in the upper position.
Page 3-26
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
1)
Locate your Warp Beam and the axle pockets located on the front edge of the Rear Verticals.
2)
Loosen the little bolts that hold the flat beam
retainers over the two pockets.
3)
Swing the retainers aside and position the Beam in
place. Bring the warp beam into position. If you
are using the upper location, orient the beam so
that the long end of the axle extends to the left of
the loom (opposite the Dobby Head).
4)
Seat the Beam in the axle pockets and, holding the
Beam in place, rotate each retainer back down, to
safely secure the Beam.
5)
Locate the Warp Beam Handle and remove its
hardware.
Page 3-27
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
Page 3-28
6)
Slip the handle over the protruding end of the
Beam Axle. Insert the bolt and secure with the
washer and nut. Note that the handle is connected
with a carriage bolt, the head of which must fit into
its stamped recess.
7)
Follow the same procedure to mount a second,
Lower Beam. The Lower Beam should be oriented
so that the handle is on the Dobby Side (right hand
side) of the loom. Remember, a Sectional Beam
can only be mounted in the upper location.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION OF
THE BREAST BEAM
AND SEPARATION
BEAM/S
Your package includes one Breast Beam and a Separation Beam for each Warp Beam ordered. These Beams
are identical. Each has a deep groove running the length
on one side and an extension at each end to fit into
the cut-outs at the top of the Front (#2L,R) and Rear
(#5L,R) Verticals. Simply drop the Beams into the cutouts (as shown in Figure 3-18).
The slots will face down when installed and used as Separation Beams. Figure 3-18 shows the placement of the
Breast Beam, when it is to be used during wind-on from
a Tension Box. The First Separation Beam will be inverted to expose the slot, converting the Beam into a Track
and Mount for your Tension Box!
If you have a Second Warp Beam, you will need to install
a bracket for the second Warp Separation Beam, as follows:
BRACKETS FOR
SECOND WARP
SEPARATION
BEAM (see Figure
3-18)
NOTE: If you ordered a loom with two Warp Beams,
these brackets and hardware will have been packed with
the Side Frame Parts.
As noted above, if you intend to use two Warp Beams in
your weaving, you’ll need to attach a set of brackets to
the Rear Verticals. These Warp Separation Beam Brackets support an additional cross member which is used to
direct the warp from your lower Beam to the harnesses.
1)
Locate the two Separation Beam Brackets. They
are identical, so you needn’t be concerned about
left and right. As shown in the diagram, these
brackets bolt into the top of the back edge of the
Rear Verticals.
2)
We’ve pre-installed the mounting bolts in the
brackets. Remove the square nuts from the bolt
ends, push the brackets into place, and tighten the
bolts against the square nuts placed in the access
holes on the inside face of Horizontals #6L and
#6R.
Page 3-29
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
MOUNT THE
BRAKE CABLE
SYSTEM
Page 3-30
1)
You’ve already installed your Brake Pedal(s), now
you need to add the Cable/s and Spring/s.
2)
Brake Cables come in different lengths, depending
on the type of Beam you’re using, and its location.
Your Cable Assembly/ies are individually bagged
and marked, but if you become confused, consult
the table below:
Beam Type
Cable Length
(length is tip of loop
to tip of clip)
1/2 Yard Sectional
Upper Plain Beam
Lower Plain Beam
76-5/8”
53-3/4”
47-5/8”
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
3)
Select the poly bag with the appropriate Cable
Assembly. You will receive one assembly for each
Warp Beam ordered. It will contain:
a)1 — Steel Brake Cable
b)1 — Tension Tie-Up with Toggle
c)1 — “J” Bolt assembly
d)1 — Eye Bolt/Spring Assembly
4)
Figure 3-19 indicates the holes for the cable
mounting hardware.
5)
Mount the “J” and eye bolts, making sure that
each points to the inside of the loom. The “J” bolt
should also point down.
6)
Use a 7/16” wrench to remove the nut from the
bolt in the end of the Brake Pedal, then slide the
bolt most of the way out.
7)
Insert the tip of the bolt through the three strands
of cord that create the loop, with the toggle remaining above the pedal.
Page 3-31
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
8)
Push down on the end of the brake pedal so that
you can attach the spring to the same bolt. You’ll
have both the tie-up and the spring on the bolt.
9)
Push the bolt back through the pedal and replace
the nut.
10) Hook the loop at one end of the cable on the
proper J-bolt. Bring the cable immediately up and
around the exterior side of the Brake Drum. Wrap
it around the Brake Drum; it will pass over the top
of the drum three times. Take care not to cross
the cable on itself.
11) When you’ve just enough cable remaining to almost reach the brake pedal, collect the three loops
of the cord into the snap hook.
12) Check again to make sure the cable isn’t crossed
on itself.
13) Use the toggle on the tie-up to adjust the tension
on the pedal. To increase tension, pull the two
ends of cord away from the toggle (as shown in
Figure 3-20). To decrease the tension, squeeze
the buttons on either side of the toggle and move
it up and down on the looped ends.
INSTALL THE
SHELF
Page 3-32
You’re nearly finished! – it’s time to install the shelf.
1)
Orient the shelf so that the felt strips on the bottom will lay atop the three sets of Harness Pulleys
when the shelf is in place. These act as Cable Retainers and will keep your Harness Cables properly
located during lifting of the harnesses.
2)
Slide the shelf into the grooves in the Harness Pulley Supports.
3)
Insert the retention pin into its hole. It will, and
should be, tight. It will loosen over time.
4)
If you cannot push the pin all the way into the
shelf, check that you haven’t put the shelf in
backwards.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION
OF THE E-LIFT II
(see Figures 3-5 and
3-11)
The E-Lift II replicates the action of treadling. When you
activate the foot switch, the motor turns and selected
harnesses rise or fall. The motion is smooth, quick, and
precise and does not jar the harnesses.
You may recall that, earlier, you installed the Interior
Cross members #19 and #20, along with the Harness
Spring Support (see Figure 3-11). There are some hardware and smaller parts secured to these Cross Members.
It is to pieces, #19 and #20, that we shall now return.
INSTALL THE
E-LIFT II MOTOR
BOX
INSTALL THE
CAM-TO-MOTORCABLE
1)
From the packaging, remove the black E-Lift Motor Box and the hardware bag. Place the Motor
Box beneath parts #19 and #20, orienting it so the
two electrical switches face the back of the loom,
the small circular plug is to the front, and the four
holes in the top plate of the Motor Box align with
the matching holes in the wooden Support Blocks.
As the Motor Box is quite heavy, you may wish to
put something under the Motor Box to hold the top
plate flush with the bottom of both wooden Support Blocks.
2)
Take the four 5/16 x 2” hex bolts, with lock washers and square nuts from the hardware pack. Remove the square nuts.
3)
Insert the bolts, with lock washers, from the bottom, up through the top plate and support blocks.
Secure with the square nuts, on top.
4)
Notice that there is a long Lever bound to #20.
Release this; it will hang down for the moment.
5)
Now look to the Cam you installed (see Figure
3-5). The cable is wrapped around it and sealed
down with plastic wrap. Remove the wrap and
unwind this Cam-to-Motor-Cable. Be sure to find
the small cotter pin that is attached to the end of
the cable at the copper fitting. Remove it from the
cable and keep it safe for the next three steps.
Page 3-33
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
INSTALL THE
CAM-CYLINDERTO-SLIDE-PLATE
CABLE
6)
Wind the cable over the top of the Cam, toward the
outside of the loom, back around, under the Cam,
and over to the pulley mounted on top of the Motor
Box.
7)
Pass the cable across the front of the Motor Pulley,
around to the left and into a hole on the pulley’s
barrel. The tip of the cable will now be visible in a
hole on the top, flat side of the pulley.
8)
Pull the tip of the cable out the top of the pulley
and replace the small cotter pin at the tip of the
cable. This will prevent the cable from pulling out
and allow for the cable to be taken up and let out
from the pulley as it turns.
9)
Immediately to the right of the larger Cam is the
Cam-Cylinder. Remove the wrap and unwind the
Cam-to-Slide-Plate Cable. This cable ends in a
loop.
10) Manually lift the slide plate that slips up and down
on the slide rods, mounted to the Dobby Back. If
you lift it far enough, it will pass over the little
dobby balls. Several of them will act as support for
the slide plate.
11) A large hole located in the center of the bottom
plate of the Dobby Back is not exposed. Slip the
loop up through the hole and drop it over the open
tip of the large, opened eye bolt on the underside
of the slide plate.
INSTALL THE
SPRING AND THE
RETURN CORD
12) Unpack the spring and slip one end of it onto the
eyebolt at the tip of the lever.
13) Hook the other end of the spring onto the J-bolt at
the left side of #20.
14) The return cord is already attached to the top, right
side of the slide plate with a Quick Link. Undo the
twist tie and straighten out the cord. Check to see
that the Quick Link is vertically aligned and that
the cord is coming over the pulley and held in place
with the retainer that pivots on the pulley bolt.
Page 3-34
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
15) Move to the rear of the loom and maintain some
tension on the cord as you bring it down the side
and under the Return Pulley and over the top of the
pulley mounted on the rear E-Lift Support Mount
Block.
16) Continue pulling on the cord toward the left side of
the loom. Loop the cord under the pulley mounted
on the lever and bring it over the pulley, back toward the center of the loom.
17) With one hand maintaining tension on the cord,
grasp the bottom of the lever with the other hand
and pull it, against the spring tension, back toward
the loom center. Take care not to pinch fingers between the spring and the lever. Use the slack created in the cord to extend it back toward the right
side of the loom and the waiting eye bolt.
COMPLETING
INSTALLATION OF
THE E-LIFT II
18) Now that the cord and cables are installed, it is
time to check that the Cam and pulleys are aligned
to allow for smooth, vertical movement. Use an
allen wrench to tighten all six lock collars securely
in place (please refer to Figure 3-5). The Cam and
pulleys should be allowed to turn freely, but without and lateral wiggle.
19) Locate and connect the foot switch cord to the
front of the E-Lift II. Connect the female end of
the power cord at the back of the housing (be sure
it’s completely inserted). Turn off the E-Lift II
power switch. Plug the male end of the power cord
into a good quality surge-protected power strip,
preferably the same one as used for your CompuDobby as this will allow you to turn on the loom
more easily.
Page 3-35
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
SETTING THE
HOME POSITION
Before you use the E-Lift II, you must set the “home” or
neutral position:
20) Turn off the E-Lift II power switch. Unwind the
cord on the Motor Box Pulley and bring the Dobby
Slide Plate to its upper most position.
21) Rewind the Motor Pulley Cord, making sure the
Dobby Slide Plate remains at least approximately
1/4” above the ball on the rear most Dobby Cable
(or cylindrical crimp if you have Dobby Wires).
Turn on the E-Lift II power switch.
You have now set your Home Position and may start to
weave!
SELECTION
OF SINGLE OR
DOUBLE ACTION
MODE
The E-Lift II is programmed with two modes: Double- or
Single-Shed selection.
The Double-Shed™ mode completes every lifting cycle
with the shed open. For example, assume you’ve just
completed a shot and the shed is still open. You depress
the foot switch and the shed closes, the Dobby advances
to the next pick, and the shed opens — all as a single
continuous movement. You’ll very quickly develop a
rhythm and will find there’s ample time to beat while the
shed is transitioning between Open-Close-Open. To use
the Double-Shed mode, find the selector switch located
at the rear of the E-Lift II and set it to the “On” position
(see Figure #5).
In Single-Shed mode, you activate the foot switch once
to open the shed and again to close the shed. In other
words, you achieve one action per activation. If you
wish to use the Single-Shed mode, ensure that the Double-Shed mode selector switch in the “Off” position.
REQUIRED
MAINTENANCE
FOR THE E-LIFT II
Page 3-36
You’ll need occasionally to clean the air filter, which is
located on the front of the E-Lift II housing. To clean,
unsnap and remove the plastic baffle. Remove the foam
element and carefully wash it in warm soapy water. Be
sure the element is completely dry before you replace it.
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
SUGGESTED
MAINTENANCE
FOR THE E-LIFT II
The E-Lift II Pulley-Cam, pulley to slide plate and counterweight cables may stretch with extensive use. If after
setting your Home position, you find that the counterweight is hitting the floor with the shed open, this is likely the cause. To adjust, simply push the cable through
the Cam-Pulley and re-tie the knot to a shorter length.
For the counterweight cable, tie a knot in the cable at a
location where it won’t run over a pulley in normal operation.
Inspect the cables for wear, especially where they move
over a pulley. Do this monthly if you weave regularly.
Check the supporting hardware and re-tighten if loose.
Your E-Lift II is designed to provide years of dependable
service. When replacement parts, such as the air filter
or cables are needed, AVL is your source. AVL can also
rebuild your E-Lift II when it reaches the end of its wear
cycle. Please contact us at 530-893-4915 or [email protected] to place your order or to arrange service.
INSTALLATION OF
THE COMPUDOBBY (see Figure
3-13 for parts and
placement)
1)
Take the Compu-Dobby from its protective box and
have the four thumbscrews free from the Dobby
Back and at hand for this installation.
FIGURE 3-21 – SOLENOID TIPS ALIGNED CORRECTLY
2)
Check to see that all of the little black plastic tips
on each solenoid appear concave, when viewed
from above. They can be easily turned with a
slight touch (see Figure 3-21).
Page 3-37
V-SERIES - LOOM ASSEMBLY
Page 3-38
3)
Before proceeding further, locate the four mounting
holes in the narrow sides of the Dobby Back. Behind each hole, seen from the interior loom, there
is what appears to be the head of a standard slotted screwdriver. This is the end of the barrel nut
that will secure the tip of each thumbscrew. Be
sure these slots are aligned horizontally. Use a
screwdriver to rotate them into place.
4)
Bring the Compu-Dobby up to the Dobby Back and
align the four mounting holes located on the edge
of the sides, with the four holes on the sides of
the Dobby Back. The Compu-Dobby is heavy and
must be grasped and supported from the bottom.
We suggest using a pot-holder or pad to make this
more comfortable on your hands.
5)
Align the four sets of holes and insert one thumbscrew into each. Wait until all are installed before
tightening completely.
6)
Prior to tightening, press the Compu-Dobby flush
against the loom castle. There is a little bit of play
in the holes and the solenoids will perform best if
they are positioned correctly.
7)
Attach the power cable to the Compu-Dobby at
the plug by the power Switch located on the lower,
front of the unit.
8)
Attach male end of the beige RS-232 serial cable
at the female connection on the lower, front of the
unit and the female end of the cable to the male
serial port on your computer or, using a high-speed
serial adapter, to a USB port on your computer.
9)
Please refer to your weaving software manual for
further information about the computer interface
with your Compu-Dobby.
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
If you have ordered only a Sectional Beam, proceed to
the section titled Warping the Sectional Beam.
Various warping methods can be adapted to the AVL
loom. However, we recommend the following method in
which the warp is first wound on to the Plain Beam with
the use of a Raddle. Please study this method and try it.
We have found that it aids in getting a uniform warp tension, especially when dealing with long warps.
Creating Two
Crosses
To begin, wind the warp on a warping board or reel.
Make sure you put in two crosses, one at each end of
your warp:
1)
The Threading Cross (each thread crosses the next
thread in opposite directions; all are secured in a
single loop).
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
2)
The Raddle Cross (warp threads are tied in groups,
depending on how many ends will be put in each
section of the raddle).
In the Threading Cross, each thread crosses the next
thread in opposite directions and all are secured in a single loop at the axis of the cross. The number of threads
in a Raddle group can be determined by the number of
ends to be placed in each section of the Raddle.
SECURING THE
CROSSES
Before removing the warp from the board or the reel,
secure the crosses. Use four ties to secure each cross,
in addition to the tie at the cross axis. These ties go on
each side of both pegs holding the cross.
It is usually a good idea to use different color threads
for the ties on the tops of the pegs and another color to
tie the bows underneath the pegs. By color-coding your
ties, you are less likely to twist the warp later.
REMOVING THE
WARP FROM THE
WARPING BOARD
Remove the warp from the warping board by chaining
or by winding on the kitestick. Start from the Threading
Cross and proceed to the Raddle Cross.
Since the capacity of the warping board is limited, for
wide warps you will end up making a number of miniwarps and taking them off individually.
ADJUSTING THE
TENSION DEVICE
Page 4-
In Chapter 3, you installed the Brake/Tension Device.
Before winding on the warp, there are a few small things
to take care of on the loom. First, check the tension
device to make sure the rope is wrapped three times
around the tension drum and that the rope end is clipped
to the spring, which is held by the Hook Bolt. Test that
you are able to turn the Beam in a clockwise direction. If this proves difficult, you can let some length out
of the nylon cord by pressing on the toggle button and
moving the toggle up and down on the cord. This will
allow you to turn the beam backwards during winding
and the Beam will be stabilized the beam when at rest.
Don’t forget to retighten the cord when you are ready to
thread the heddles!
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
ATTACHING THE
RADDLE
Now secure the Raddle to the back of the loom. If you
have an AVL Raddle, simply slip the mounting rods into
the set of holes in the back of the rear vertical members.
WINDING THE
APRON
Standing at the left side of the loom, with the handle
in front of you, the warp will be wound on in a counter
clockwise direction. Put your apron on the beam with
velcro and wind your beam in the counter clockwise, so
that your apron is wound on the beam.
ATTACHING THE
WARP TO THE
APRON
Bring the apron around the Separation Beam and put the
metal rod through the sleeve at the end. You can also
lash your warp sections onto that rod or you can attach
another rod which has been slipped through the loop at
the end of the warp with the Raddle Cross.
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
INSERTING
STICKS IN THE
RADDLE CROSS
Place two lease sticks in either side of the Raddle Cross
and secure together with string through the holes in the
ends of the sticks. Now remove the ties from the Raddle
Cross and spread the warp out on the sticks.
Measure the center of your Raddle to use it as a center
of your warp. The warp threads should either go through
the middle of the Raddle or be offset four inches to the
right.
FEEDING THE
RADDLE
To feed the Raddle, distribute yarns across the Raddle
by dropping each Raddle Cross group into a dent in the
Raddle.
If you are using an AVL Raddle with a sliding cover, slide
it on after the Raddle is threaded and secure it with two
or three cord ties so it can’t come off. Remove the Raddle Cross sticks when this is completed.
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
PREPARING THE
PAPER
Prepare the paper for winding between the warp layers.
Again, for the most professional results, and fewer tension problems, we suggest that the warp be as smooth,
tight, and compact as possible. This would mean not
using corrugated paper or sticks as they will make the
warp too soft and/or lumpy. Corrugated paper is just too
soft and the warp can never be wound tight enough with
it. Heavy wrapping paper works well; seventy pound
craft paper is good. If you are going to be using smooth,
slippery warp yarns like fine linens or perle cottons, the
edge yarns are going to need extra help in order not to
slip off the sides. To do this, cut your paper four inches
wider than the warp width and then fold over the edges
an inch on each side. Be sure the warp is wound between the two folded edges not overlapping them.
WINDING THE
WARP
When winding the warp on from the back, i.e., with the
warp spread out in back of the loom, turn the crank in
a counter-clockwise direction so that the warp comes in
from the bottom.
Remember, wind the warp on tightly under a lot of tension. This will vary with each warp material, but a good
rule to remember is that the tension of the wound-on
warp must as greater as the tension during the weaving
operation. You will need one person to hold a warp under tension on the back and one person to wind the warp
on the beam using a handle. The person winding the
warp can also insert the paper. For a wide, heavy warp,
several helpers may be required.
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
If you have to do it yourself, you can use the jerking
method. Make one turn around with your beam crank
and then go to the back of the loom and jerk one narrow section (2-3 inches in width) at a time to make the
newly wound warp tight on the beam. The idea of this
method is that the warp does not need to be under tension all the time, but the part that is on the beam has to
be tight. Make another turn, go to the back of the loom,
and jerk all the sections again and so on. If you have a
wide warp, you might need to do up to ten jerking motions after each turn.
THREADING
CROSS
When you come to the end of your warp, insert lease
sticks at either side of your Threading Cross. Tie the two
sticks together at each end.
REMOVING THE
RADDLE
When the warping is completed, free the warp from the
Raddle. If you have an AVL Raddle, first untie the security strings, lift the Raddle top off, and remove the warp
from the Raddle. Afterwards, replace the top on the
Raddle and leave it in its place on the back of the loom if
so desired as it will not interfere with the weaving process. Then be sure to bring the end of the warp around
the Separation Beam so that it now travels into the loom.
Using a strong cord, suspend the lease sticks between
the Separation Beam and the Harnesses.
Now remove the five ties from each Threading Cross and
spread the warp out on the sticks.
USING TWO
BEAMS
There will be times when you will want to use more than
one warp, which cannot be put together on one beam.
You will have to put them on separate beams with separate tension systems.
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
WHEN DO YOU
NEED TO TENSION
YOUR WARPS
SEPARATELY?
SETTING TWO
BEAMS
When weaving:
1)
Very different size yarns.
2)
Yarns with different stretching qualities.
3)
Different densities.
4)
Different structures.
5)
Supplementary warp techniques (because some
warp threads do not interlace as often as others).
6)
A group of special yarns for selvedges and borders.
Loops, piles, or puckers like seersucker.
7)
More then one layer with different setts in each
layer.
8)
More than one layer with a different pick count in
each layer.
If you are confident in setting one beam, it is just as
easy to set up a loom with two beams. It might take
twice as much time and you do need to be more careful
not to mix sequences.
For those who ordered the second Plain Beam, it is
wound in the same manner as the first Warp Beam
except your second beam will be in the bottom position, with the Handle at the right side of the loom. This
means your wind-on direction will now be clockwise.
1)
Wind each warp on the beam the same way you
would do it if there were only one beam on the
loom (plain or sectional). Make a cross and have a
pair of lease sticks with a cross in each warp.
2)
See enclosed picture for warp routing.
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
3)
MORE THAN TWO
WARPS, ONLY
ONE BEAM?
SEPARATE
TENSIONING!
Page 4-
Proceed with a threading as if you only had one
beam/one cross. Follow your threading instructions and take special care which thread from
which pair of lease sticks comes next.
If you have more than two warps to set and not more
than two beams, you need to weight/tension your additional warps separately (do the same if you only have
one beam and more than one warp to set).
1)
Make your warp sections on the warping board and
take them off the board in a chain, on a kite stick,
or just in a plastic bag.
2)
Make sure that each bundle is not too thick. You
will know when you need to divide each bundle
if you feel that all the threads are not being tensioned evenly.
3)
The weight needs to have a strong loop of string
on it so the warp bundles can be slip knotted into
it. This makes it easy to undo the slip-knot and
move the weight when it climbs up to the back
beam and must be let down again.
V-SERIES - WARPING THE PLAIN BEAM
4)
The weight also needs to be adjustable. Plastic
bottles, with handles, filled with water are perfect.
You can also use fishing weights, washers, nuts,
bolts. They are not as easily adjustable as water
bottles, but take less space. The closer to the floor
you can hang them, the less often you need to reposition them.
Page 4-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
The AVL Sectional Beam is designed to be warped in
sections with the use of a Tension Box. The yarn travels
directly from cones or spools, which are mounted on a
rack behind the loom, through the Tension Box, and onto
the Beam. Throughout the warping process, the Tension
Box automatically keeps a constant and uniform tension
on the warp. Not only does this system save time, but
it makes it possible to wind on very long warps which
would never fit on a warping board or reel.
SECTIONAL BEAM
CALCULATION
First, you must calculate the number of spools or cones
of yarn you will need. Each section is wound onto the
Sectional Beam separately; therefore, you’ll need to
have one spool or cone for each end in that section (if
your section is 2” wide, with sixteen E.P.I., that would be
thirty-two spools or cones of yarn).
NOTE: It used to be that all sections were 2” wide. On
an AVL Sectional Beam with metal hoops, you can decide
to use 1”, 2”, or any number of inches sections. You can
simply add more hoops in the pre-made holes or take
them out.
To prepare for Sectional Beam warping, we need to calculate:
•
how many spools we need to wind
•
how many yards do we need to wind on each spool
•
total yardage for the project
•
NUMBER OF SPOOLS?
Sectional Beaming requires the use of as many
spools loaded with thread per individual section as
your Ends Per Inch, or planned sett in the reed,
dictates.
To calculate the actual number of spools required,
we need to know:
•
how many EPI (this is the sett) are you going
to use in the warp
•
what SIZE of SECTIONS (1” or 2”) will you
use on the Beam
If your warp is set at 24 epi per 1”, you will need
24 spools for a Sectional Beam with 1” sections or
48 spools for a Beam with 2” sections.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
Therefore we can say:
# OF SPOOLS = EPI x SIZE OF THE SECTION
•
NUMBER OF YARDS PER SPOOL?
To calculate the number of yards per spool, we
need to know:
•
the LENGTH OF THE WARP
•
NUMBER OF SECTIONS on the Beam
We calculate the number of sections by dividing
the WIDTH OF THE WARP by the SIZE OF THE
SECTION. If the warp width is 30” and we are
using 2” sections, our number of Sections is 15.
All together, we can say:
# OF YARDS PER SPOOL = LENGTH OF THE
WARP x # OF SECTIONS
•
TOTAL YARDAGE?
If it is a single color warp or if a color sequence
is repeating in each section, the same spools or
cones can be used to wind all the sections needed
for the warp.
TOTAL YARDAGE = # OF SPOOLS x
# OF YARDS PER SPOOL
It is important to make these calculations in advance so
that you can purchase your yarn in spools or cones corresponding to the amount of yardage needed on each.
Sometimes this is not possible and you will need to wind
your own spools from yarn that is in larger packages.
For doing this, you will need empty plastic spools, a bobbin winder (preferably electric), and a yardage counter.
These items are available from AVL.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
EXTENSION
CORDS
FEEDING THE
SPOOL RACK
You might want to make a permanent set of Extension
Cords to use when warping the Sectional Beam. Extension Cords are also called “apron cords” and serve the
same function as the apron on the Plain Beam. They
give you “reach” from the Warp Beam and allow you
to weave every possible inch until the end of the warp
touches the last Harness you are using. Make them out
of a strong non-stretchable linen or cotton cord. You
will need to make one Extension Cord for each section in
your Sectional Beam. For each Extension Cord:
1)
Measure a piece of cord long enough to reach from
the axle of the Warp Beam, at least one and a half
revolutions around the Beam and then reach to the
back most Harness.
2)
When measuring the length of the cords, take into
account that, when the warp is attached to the Extension Cord, the lark’s head of the Cord and overhand knot of the warp will fall between the Crosspieces of the Sectional Beam, not on them. This
will keep the warp smooth on the Beam without
going over the knots created when attaching the
warp to the cords.
3)
Now double that length and cut it.
4)
Take the two ends of the cord and knot them together, using an overhand knot.
5)
All Extension Cords should be exactly the same
length, so it’s better to cut all you will need before
proceeding.
Next, place a Spool or Cone Rack about five or six feet
behind your loom. Place the spools or cones for the first
warp sections on the Cone Rack.
Make sure you put each thread through the metal eye on
the spool rack so the threads do not get tangled.
When arranging the spools on the Spool Rack, it doesn’t
matter whether you go top to bottom or bottom to
top, the important thing is to be consistent in vertical
columns and to place the spools in the order that the
threads are in the warp.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
THE TENSION BOX
TENSION
BOX HEDDLE
INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS
Page 5-
This is an essential tool for Sectional Warping, which:
1)
Puts threads under even tension.
2)
Spreads threads to the proper width of the section.
3)
Makes a thread-by-thread cross.
If this is your first time to use a Tension Box, you need
to install heddles on the harnesses of your Tension Box.
Your Tension Box is delivered with one bundle of one
hundred heddles. These are held together with twist
ties. Leave these on for now. Refer to the upcoming diagram to familiarize yourself with the Tension Box and its
parts. Push down on one of the harnesses until it stops.
This causes the other harness to go up. You will use that
later for making a Threading Cross. Right now we’ll need
to use it to help in the assembly of the heddles to the
harnesses.
1)
Remove the “heddle retainer” of the harness that is
up, using a phillips head screwdriver.
2)
Notice there are four twist ties holding the heddles
together. Separate the top two. Insert the top bar
(of the harness that is up) into the space created
by pulling apart the twist ties. Insert the bottom
bar (of the harness that is up) into the space created by pulling apart the bottom two twist ties,
making certain that the heddles aren’t’ twisted.
Now remove the twist ties.
3)
Count off fifty heddles and cut the loop at the top
between the 50th and the 51st heddle.
4)
Now put the four twist ties back on the fifty heddles that were the last to go on the harness.
5)
Remove these fifty and reattach the “heddle retainer”.
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
POSITIONING THE
TENSION BOX
6)
Now push down on the harness that is up, making
the other harness come up.
7)
Remove the heddle retainer.
8)
Pull apart the top two twist ties and insert the top
of the harness (which is up) into the space created.
Pull apart the bottom two twist ties and insert the
bottom of the harness into the space created.
9)
Reattach the heddle retainer.
First bring the Front Beam to the back of the loom and
mount it in the two notches located on the Mid-Rear
Horizontals (see part #6A, page _____). Next, flip the
Separation Beam at the back of the loom, exposing the
side with the groove in it. If you have two Warp Beams
and have mounted the Separation Bar for that beam,
remove it for this process.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
Mount the Tension Box in the groove, with the Counter
facing into the loom. The Tension Box is fastened to the
Separation Beam with a small cross piece and wing nuts.
This will stabilize the Tension Box and allow it to travel
smoothly from one section to another. The wing nuts
can be released for the Tension Box to move easily from
side to side. Each time the Tension Box is moved and
centered properly for a particular section, the wing nuts
must to be tightened again.
THREADING THE
TENSION BOX
The best way to thread the Tension Box is to take one
thread from the furthest left cone (as you face the Cone
Rack, with your back to the loom) and thread it all the
way through all the parts of the Tension Box, nearest to
the back plate of the Box, then the next thread all the
way through. It works best to use the threads from the
rack in a vertical order rather than a horizontal order.
Now let’s go through the sequence for threading the Tension Box. First, move the two adjustable Tension Pegs
up above the Stationary Pegs or remove them completely. Now, using a sley hook, draw the thread through the
Rear (stationary) Reed. Since this reed is eight dents
per inch, you will divide the E.P.I. into eight to find out
how many ends will be in each dent (with sixteen E.P.I,
put two ends in a section). If your E.P.I. does not divide equally by eight, you can either vary the number of
ends in each dent (with twenty E.P.I., alternate two and
three ends in the dents) or thread the dents a little wider
than two inches (with twenty E.P.I., put two ends in each
dent; with forty ends, the reed will be sleyed 2-1/2”
wide).
Next, bring the thread straight through the Tension Peg
section, between the larger adjustable Tension Pegs and
the smaller, stationary Pegs or just above the smaller
stationary Pegs if you have removed the larger ones.
Thread the first end through one heddle on the Front
Harnesses, nearest to the back plate. The next end will
go through the first heddle on the rear Harness. Repeat
this, alternating harnesses for the rest of the ends. The
heddle system will be used later to create the Threading
Cross.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
Now thread the end through the front Pivoting Reed.
Here you have a choice of using an eight dent or ten
dent reed. Pick the one that can be sleyed evenly and
as close to the desired section width as possible. If you
cannot get the exact width of the section, sley your reed
slightly wider. This will make it just slightly wider than
the space between the hoops. The section will be narrowed down by pivoting the Reed. Never sley the reed
narrower than the section on the Beam because it is
critical that the ends wind on evenly across the width of
each section. If the ends are set too narrow at the Pivoting Reed, there is no way to expand it.
After the Tension Box is completely threaded, move the
larger Pegs downward and tighten their wing nuts securely, to apply tension to the yarns. The further down
the Pegs are moved, the more tension will be applied
to the yarn. This is an adjustable system as different
yarns require more or less tension. With a heavy wool,
the Pegs may only need to be moved half-way down,
whereas with a fine silk, the Pegs may need to be moved
all the way down and the yarn wrapped an extra time
around one of the stationary Pegs to get the proper tension. Once you have adjusted the tension correctly, do
not change it during the winding of the Beam, as long as
you are using the same type of yarn.
Once the Tension Box has been threaded, it is not always
necessary to rethread it. If you need to change spools
or cones, simply tie the new ends on to the old ends just
before the rear stationary reed and pull gently on the old
ends until the new ends have come all the way through
the box.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
WINDING THE
WARP
In Chapter 3 you installed the Brake/Tension Device. Before winding on the warp, there are a few small things to
take care of on the loom. First, check the tension device
to make sure the rope is wrapped three times around
the tension drum and that the rope end is clipped to the
spring, which is held by the Hook Bolt. Test that you are
able to turn the Beam in a clockwise direction. If this
proves difficult, you can let some length out of the nylon
cord by pressing on the toggle button and moving the
toggle up and down on the cord. This will allow you to
turn the Beam backwards during winding, while stabilizing the Beam when it is at rest. Don’t forget to retighten
the cord before you begin threading the heddles!
Before you start winding the warp, the Extension Cord
must be attached to the Beam and the section of the
warp to the Extension Cord.
First, wind the tied end of the Extension Cord around the
Beam Axle. At the knot, separate the two ends and pull
the other end of the cord all the way through and tighten
the Extension Cord around the axle.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
Next, tie an overhand knot near the end of the warp
threads from one section and slip that knot into the
opening of the larkshead knot you create in the Extension Cord. Pull it tight.
Line up the Tension Box approximately over the section
you will be winding.
ADJUSTING THE
SIZE OF THE
SECTION
Now, slowly wind about one revolution onto the Beam.
As you wind, you will need to fine-tune the placement
of the Tension Box along the track. When it is centered
properly, tighten down the wing nuts under the Tension
Box. At this point, you can pivot the “pivoting reed section” so that the yarn comes close to, but doesn’t quite
touch, either the hoop to the left or the hoop to the
right. Now tighten the wing nut under the pivoting reed.
This shouldn’t need to be readjusted until you are using
yarn of a very different size in another section.
Extra care to correctly center and adjust the width of
each warp section will result in more perfect tension
while weaving.
Make sure that the threads are going on to the Beam in
flat layers. If you notice that warp piles up at the hoops,
the section of the warp is too wide. If the warp falls
down at the hoops, the warp section is too narrow.
Page 5-
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
If any of the above is happening, gently unwind the warp
(into a box, perhaps) and pivot the front reed on the
Tension Box again until you get perfectly flat layers. This
is very important, otherwise you will end up having different length threads in one section, since the circumference of the Beam within the section is not going to grow
evenly. This uneven tension will end up causing lots of
tension problems.
COUNTING TURNS
OR YARDAGE
To determine the length of the warp you are putting on
the Beam, you need to count either turns, revolutions, or
yards.
To count turns, you can do it in your head, but it is more
reliable to use a digital or mechanical revolution counter.
Counting revolutions even with a digital counter will only
give the approximate warp length, because the circumference of the Beam will increase slightly with each rotation. This is called “Beam Build Up”.
To count yards with a Yardage Counter while warping the
Sectional Beam, you need to place the Yardage Counter at the front of the Tension Box. You should use an
extra thread for measuring yardage, because if you use
one of the threads from your warp section, that particular thread would have a different tension once you start
weaving. The extra thread you use for measuring purposes can then be reused for each section.
Page 5-10
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
CREATING THE
CROSS
When there is about a half-yard left to be wound onto
the Beam, it is time to make the Threading Cross. Simply push on the rear Heddle Frame of the Tension Box,
making half of the threads go up and the other half go
down.
Now slip in an 8” piece of contrasting thread (called a
c) through the opening (called a Shed) created between
the threads above and the threads below. Position this
Marking Thread about halfway between the Tension Box
and the Separation Beam (AKA the Breast Beam).
Page 5-11
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
Now push down on the front Heddle Frame, making the
other half of the threads go up. You may need to give
a gentle tug to the section, behind the Box, to help the
threads separate into the new Shed. Now take one end
of your Marking Thread and bring it through this Shed.
The two ends of the Marking Thread should now be together. Tying them in a bowknot, you have just made
the Cross. Continue to wind the first section on, until the
Cross is nearly on the Beam. Cut the ends, and secure
to the section using a piece of masking tape.
Continue winding all the sections in the same manner by
moving the Tension Box along its track.
Remove the Tension Box from its track in the Back Beam
and flip the Beam over.
Replace the Separation Beam into its former position
atop the front verticals, with the groove facing down, the
better to now serve you as the Breast Beam.
INSERTING
STICKS IN THE
THREADING
CROSS
When all the winding is complete, remove the rubber
tape, unwind a few feet of warp from each section, and
slip one lease stick through the path created at one
side of each Marking Tie. Now slip another lease stick
through the path created by the other side of each Marking Tie. Secure the lease sticks together, leaving about
two inches between them, using masking tape or string
through the end holes of the lease sticks. Now bring the
lease sticks, with the warp ends, around the outside of
the loom and over the Back Beam, so that warp travels
towards the center of the loom (harnesses).
READJUSTING
THE TENSION
Now tie the lease sticks on the side of the loom so that
they are at eye level when you are in your threading position.
To keep the warp from slipping forward during the
threading process, retighten the tension rope around
the pulley and tension drum and clip the rope end to the
spring.
Page 5-12
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
COMBINING
SECTIONAL AND
PLAIN WARPING
If you are winding a very fine warp, say forty ends to the
inch or more, and do not have or do not want to wind
a lot of spools or cones, it may be more convenient to
wind separate warp sections on a warping board or reel
and go from there directly to the Sectional Beam. If you
decide to do this, however, your warp will be limited in
length by what will fit on the warping board or reel. If
you choose this method, follow these steps:
1)
Calculate number of threads for each section on
your Sectional Beam.
2)
On the Warping Board or Warping Wheel, make
“baby warps” for each section on your Beam.
3)
Make crosses at each end: raddle cross on one
side and thread-by-thread cross on the other.
4)
Take the warp off the board or reel by taking off
the thread-by-thread cross first.
5)
Put the warp threads from a first “baby” warp in
the Raddle, making sure that threads are spread
evenly and that they are creating flat layers when
wound on the Beam. Put the raddle top on or secure warp threads with rubber bands.
6)
Instead of a regular raddle, you can put a miniraddle in place of the front reed on the Tension
Box. In this case, the Tension Box is used only for
guiding threads into the sections. It is not necessary to sley threads in the Tension Box, either
through the harnesses or through the back reed,
and you do not need to adjust tension with the
Pegs.
7)
Attach each baby warp to the Extension Cords and
proceed as in regular Sectional Beaming procedure.
8)
Since you are not using the Tension Box for tension, be sure to keep it taut manually.
Page 5-13
V-SERIES - WARPING THE SECTIONAL BEAM
9)
When you come close to the end of the section,
take the reed cover off and continue winding the
rest of the baby warp.
10) Secure that section to the Beam and continue to
the next one.
If you wish to utilize the Tension Box to maintain tension on your warp during the Wind-On phase, it will be
necessary to make a Cross at both ends of your warp. If
you can make your warp slightly longer, you can use the
extra length to leave in your Tension Box for the purpose
of tying on the subsequent sections.
Page 5-14
V-SERIES - threading, sleying, & tying on
PREPARATION
FOR THREADING
To prepare for threading, tie the threading cross-sticks
in a comfortable and visible position between the Back
Beam and the harnesses.
You may also find it helpful to raise the harnesses. To
raise all the harnesses, turn on the E-Lift, with the Double Action off, and pedal once. It is not necessary to
turn on the Compu-Dobby at this time.
It is helpful to remove the Breast Beam and the Beater
for further comfort and accessibility.
The important thing in threading is your comfort. Take
the time to position everything so that your body feels at
ease while threading.
THREADING THE
HARNESSES
Now we’re ready to thread the loom. If you are right
handed, it is recommended to start at the right side of
the warp. Grasp one group of ends in your left hand and
your sley hook in your right hand. Direct the “hook end”
of the sley hook through the “eye” of the first heddle you
need to thread. Pull the thread through (for example,
if you had a straight draft on eight harnesses, your first
thread would go through the eye of a heddle on the 8th
harness. The second thread would be threaded through
the eye of the first heddle on the 7th harness, the third
thread through the first on the 6th harness, and so on).
Some weavers mark the center heddle on each harness
and thread from center, out to each side. This allows for
leaving an equal number of heddles at both sides of the
harnesses, when threading is completed.
Page 6-
V-SERIES - threading, sleying, & tying on
UNUSED HEDDLES
After threading is complete, make sure that the unused
heddles are all pushed to the far sides of the harness
sticks between the screweyes and the ends of the harness sticks. For balance, there should be approximately
equal numbered groups of unused heddles on both sides
of each harness. In some cases, such as a very wide
warp with a lot of unused heddles on the ends of the
harnesses, you may need to tie each group of unused
heddles into a tight bundle with tie tapes or string to
keep them from falling off the ends of the harness sticks
or you may wish to take heddles off the loom altogether.
In the first six months of using a new loom with polyester heddles, the heddles stretch out to adjust to the harnesses. For this reason, we do not recommend removing
heddles from the loom for six months.
SLEYING THE
REED
Now sley the warp ends through the reed. Some weavers start from the right side; some from the left; some in
the middle. But, in all cases, be sure to measure accurately before starting so that the warp will be centered in
the reed (or offset four inches to the right if the warp on
the beam is already offset). Weavers have various ways
of positioning and stabilizing the reed between the harnesses and the Breast Beam for ease during the sleying
process.
TYING ON TO THE
APRON
Now that you have your warp ends ready to tie, we need
to prepare the apron. The ends will be tied to the apron
rod.
Notice that the apron has two hemmed ends. One end
has loops on it and the other end has a velcro strip. The
Cloth Storage Beam also has a velcro strip. Measure to
find the center of the Beam and, using tape, mark the
center above the velcro strip. Find the center on the
apron, at the end with the velcro and fold it in half, with
the velcro doubled on itself and facing out. Match center
of your fold to the center of the Beam velcro, with the
apron length hanging to the floor. Press the velcro strips
together firmly, while pulling gently toward each side of
the beam, making sure it is centered.
Page 6-
V-SERIES - threading, sleying, & tying on
Now you can remove the tape marker and, turning the
top of the Beam away from you, wind so the apron is
wrapped once around, holding itself in place. Route the
apron underneath the Cloth Beam and, towards the harnesses. Spread it out flat and center it over the Cloth
Beam and insert the metal rod into the loops at the hem.
Now tie the ends to the metal rod. Starting from the
middle, bring a first bundle toward you over the apron
rod, then around and under it. Divide it in half and bring
one half up on each side of the bundle. Use the ends to
tie a surgeon’s knot. It is the same as the first tie you
make tying a shoelace, except you loop the end through
twice. This kind of knot is very good for hold and readjusting the tension.
Page 6-
V-SERIES - threading, sleying, & tying on
Start with one section in the middle, then the far right
and the far left outside ones. Work your way in. After
tying the knot, pull only until you feel some resistance
and tighten the knot and proceed to the next section.
By now, the sections that were tied first maybe quite a
bit looser than the ones tied last. To correct this, you
do not need to untie the knots, simply grasp the ends
and pull them away from you, then re-tighten the knots,
remembering to only pull until you feel, what is now, a
uniform resistance at each group. Repeat this until all of
the sections are at approximately the same tension. It
is important to remember at this point, that you are not
tying to achieve weaving tension, only uniform tension
across the width of your warp. Attaining weaving tension is what the Cloth Beam Ratchet is for!
TYING ON TO AN
OLD WARP
Page 6-
A new warp can be tied on to an old warp, thus eliminating the threading and sleying process, if the new warp
introduced into the loom uses the same threading pattern and E.P.I. as the last warp. This process is especially good for production weavers as it saves time. It
also takes less concentration and there is less chance of
making mistakes in threading.
V-SERIES - threading, sleying, & tying on
The tying on process starts when you are finishing the
last warp on the loom. Before you cut off the fabric from
the old warp, make sure to leave enough unwoven warp
to extend one foot behind the harnesses, through the
heddles, and about six inches past the reed when the
beater is in its rear position. Now open two opposite
tabby sheds and insert the lease sticks into these sheds
behind the harnesses. Secure the sticks together with
tie tapes through the holes.
Now carefully cut the fabric from the loom and tie bundles of warp coming through the reed together with a
half-knot so the yarn can’t slip back through the reed.
Cut the warp in back (leaving one foot past the lease
sticks) and also use a half-knot to tie bundles of yarn
together for security.
After winding on the new warp on the Beam, you can sit
behind the loom, on a small stool and tie corresponding yarns from the two sets of lease sticks together. An
overhand or weaver’s knot work well. This may seem
slow at first, but you will work up a faster rhythm with
some practice. A good goal to reach would be to tie 200
to 250 ends together an hour.
When all ends are tied together, go to the front of the
loom and gently pull on the bundles of yarn going
through the reed to pull the new warp through the heddles and reed. You may find that turning small bundles
of the warp in a circular, clockwise motion will help the
through the heddles and reed. Then tie on to the apron.
Page 6-
V-SERIES - LOOM CONTROLS
E-LIFT II
BRAKE SYSTEM
1)
Power Switch
2)
Double-Action Switch
3)
Cable Functions
4)
Explanation – works independently of the CompuDobby
Your V-Series Loom is equipped with a locking brake
system. This means that the Warp Beam will be held
absolutely captive — will not release warp — until you
depress the Brake Pedal. It’s fairly foolproof and affords very taut warps. When your fell has moved as far
forward as you’re comfortable, and you wish to advance
your warp, quickly depress the pedal with a short, taptype motion and crank the warp forward with the Cloth
Advance Handle. You will have one Brake Pedal per
Warp Beam and you’ll need to depress them separately,
if you wish to advance from two Beams, maintaining two
separate tensions.
If you find that the Brake Cable is not releasing properly,
even when you’ve fully depressed the pedal, try releasing a little of the nylon cord from the toggle, in short
increments. If this is unsuccessful, you may need to
remove the Warp Beam Tension Cord and lightly sand
the groove in the brake drum (use 220# sandpaper or
finer). In times of high humidity especially, the grain at
polar sides of the drum may raise and prevent the cable
from slipping. Never, under any circumstances,
should you apply wax, talc, or other finishes to the
groove. The wood here needs to be raw for the mechanism to operate as intended.
If you remove the Brake Cable, please be sure, when you
reinstall it, that the looped end is secured to the “J” bolt,
that the cable is drawn immediately up from this bolt
and around the back of the drum (x3), and that it then
routes down the front of the drum where it connects to
the spring at the pedal. Be sure the cable does not cross
over itself at any time.
If the cable is installed in the wrong direction the Beam
will turn easily toward the front of the loom and you will
be unable to establish good tension.
Page 7-
V-SERIES - LOOM CONTROLS
Cloth Storage
System
The Cloth Storage System consists of the Cloth Storage
Beam (immediately in front of your knees), the Cloth
Storage Apron, and the Cloth Advance Handle and pawl.
As directed in the preceding warping instructions, you’ll
secure the front of your warp to the Cloth Storage
Beam via the apron. Use the handle at the right of the
Beam to advance the warp and raise the tension. Simply release Warp Beam tension by depressing the Brake
Pedal(s) as described above, push the handle forward
to engage in the toothed ratchet, and rotate it down. It
will wrap the warp onto the beam and draw the fell away
from the Beater. The Pawl is that finger device that engages in the ratchet. Its job is to keep the Beam from
rolling backwards and it must be engaged to hold the
tension.
Removable
Breast and
SEPARATION
BEAMS
You will have either two or three of these Beams. They
are interchangeable and, besides enhancing the structural integrity of the loom and giving you a convenient armrest, serve to establish the warp in its horizontal plain.
The Beam at the front of the loom is called a Breast
Beam; the Beam at the rear, the Back Beam, or Separation Beams, in the event you have two Warp Beams.
Illustrations in the Assembly Instructions identify the
mounting position of the second Separation Beam, if you
have one. These Beams can be moved to the interior
slot to help with winding-on and threading.
SwingING
Beater
The Swinging Beater is a standard feature of the V-Series Loom. You may square (or “rack”) it by loosening
the four bolts that attach it to its arms, bringing it fully
forward and retighten, while holding it firmly in place.
The Swinging Beater will not take a good adjustment unless a reed is in place.
The angle of the race can be adjusted to one of three
positions furnished by the three steel pins in the Beater
Support. The slots in the lower end of the Beater Legs
will easily fit over these. Be sure both sides are on
matching pins.
Page 7-
V-SERIES - LOOM CONTROLS
The height of the Beater can be adjusted as well, by
turning the three-pointed Knob mounted to the bracket
on the Beater Support, to raise or lower the support.
You may wish to use a small level to ensure that you
have made equal adjustments to both sides of the Beater.
Sectional Beam
If you have purchased a Sectional Beam, you will find it
to be extremely adaptable to your needs. Because each
of its hoops is removable, you may create sections of any
width you like, provided they are calculated in one-inch
increments. Tying on to the beam is explained in the
section entitled Sectional Beam Warping.
There are two things to remember:
1)
You may only use a Sectional Beam in the upper
position and …
2)
The loom will not accommodate more than one
Warp Beam if you are using a Sectional Beam.
PLAIN BEAM
The Plain Beam is provided with an apron, which will
allow you to maximize the length of your warp. You
may use two Plain Beams at a time; however, if you do
so, please orient them so that the handle on the Upper
Beam is to the left side of the loom and the handle on
the Lower Beam is to the right.
Dobby Head AND
Compu-Dobby
The Dobby Head is that many-cabled box hanging from
the right of your loom. It works in tandem with the
Compu-Dobby and together they provide the interface
between your computer and loom. The operation of
the Compu-Dobby is explained in its own manual and
we won’t reprise those instructions here. Suffice it to
say, that it is extremely important that you achieve and
maintain a good adjustment of the Solenoid Box. If this
device is out of tune, your harnesses will behave erratically.
These are the basic components on your loom. You’ve a
world of weaving ahead you, so best get started!
Page 7-
V-SERIES - LOOM CONTROLS
HARNESS
SPRINGS
There are two springs of for each harness. The purpose
of these springs is to stabilize the harnesses and encourage their vertical fall when the shed is released. Some
threadings, such as Summer/Winter, call for many more
ends to be carried on one or two harnesses. In this
instance, you may experience “Harness Float”. An indication of this problem is the looseness of heddles on a
particular harness, above the warp ends, and the ends
pushing against the top of the heddle eye. If you find
that this is interfering with your looms ability to create a
clean shed, you may wish to order a few extra springs to
help alleviate this problem, mounting a second spring on
the eyehooks, below.
HARNESSES
You will have ordered your AVL A-Series with either
polyester or metal heddles. The supporting harnesses
(or shafts) are different for the two heddle types: metal
heddles, whether twisted wire or flat steel, are suspended from steel heddle bars mounted in rigid frames;
polyester heddles are carried on Harness Sticks, top and
bottom. In all cases, the harnesses are stabilized at the
bottom by a series of spring-tensioned levers, Spring Levers. These hold the harnesses down and prevent your
heddles from floating.
Some weavers like metal heddles because they feel
these are easier to thread; others prefer the lighter and
quieter polyester heddles.
On occasion you will find that one or more of your harnesses will misbehave. That is more likely to happen
with harnesses with Polyester Heddles. There are a finite
number of things that can cause these problems.
Page 7-
V-SERIES - LOOM CONTROLS
TABLE 1 / HARNESSES
Symptom
Possible Cause
How to Fix it
A.) One or more top harness stick
collapses; it assumes a diagonal
angle and one leg of the harness
cable from which it is suspended
goes slack.
1.) Your heddles are bunched
together towards the center of the harness or on one
side only. This is a problem
because the heddles are part
of the harness structure.
Move a few heddles to each end
of your harness sticks; just to the
inside of the harness wires that connect the top and bottom sticks. That
way your harnesses will be balanced.
2.) The harness cable supporting the shaft has come
out of its pulleys at the top of
the loom.
Trace the cable back through its
pulleys in the Harness Pulley Support and make sure that the cable is
properly seated. Check the action of
the Dobby Cable as well. Make sure
that it moves easily up and down.
If the Dobby Cable seems to bind,
check for debris in the hole where it
comes through the Dobby Top. You
may need to use a very thin piece of
wire to dislodge accumulated yarn
dust or other debris.
B.) The heddles float; they are
lifted upwards by the warp thread
when you tension the warp and
your shed is not even or not large
enough.
1.) The tension in your warp
is greater than the tension in
the springs that hold the harnesses down.
Take up a link or two in the chain
that spans the Harness Spring Levers
for that particular harness. Check
the result and take-up more links
if you feel you need more holddown tension. Do not try to make
all chains the same size. The size
will depend on how much tension is
required for each harness depending
again on the number of threads going through that harness.
C.) One or more harnesses that
are supposed to raise don't.
1.) Left treadle isn't being
pressed all the way down.
Concentrate on getting both treadles
all the way through their travel.
2.) Dobby arm out of adjustment.
Realign the dobby arm according to
the assembly instructions.
3.) Dobby cables out of finger Rearrange the cables according to
slots.
the assembly instructions.
D.) Harnesses don't raise properly.
1.) Harness cables have been Rearrange the cables.
hooked to the wrong harness.
2.) Chains from the spring
levers have been hooked to
the wrong harnesses.
Rearrange the cables.
3.) Copper hooks on the
Straighten the hooks with pliers.
spring levers have been bent.
E.) Harnesses jam up on each
other.
1.) Heddles are not distributed evenly over the harness
sticks.
Redistribute the heddles evenly on
both sides from the center of the
harness sticks.
2.) Harness wire that connects the harness sticks has
jumped out and got stuck in
the heddles of the other harness.
Pull the wire out, make sure it does
not catch any heddles, and replace it
to just connect the top and the bottom harness sticks.
If you have a large number of extra
heddles on each side, you might
want to tie them in bundles to prevent getting caught by the harness
wires.
Page 7-
V-SERIES - LOOM MAINTENANCE
Tightening the
Bolts
The single most important thing you can do to extend
the life of your loom, and preserve its operation, is
tighten the bolts that hold its frame together. These will
loosen over time, due to changes in its environment and
to your own creative exertions. A loom which is allowed
to become loose-jointed will certainly cost you weaving
time, perhaps affect the quality of your work, and definitely become older than its years.
Loom Parts
Lubrication and Cleaning
Shuttles, Shuttle Race, Single-Box Flyshuttle Picker
Grooves
Paste Wax
Slide Rods (sliding beater rods, bobbin winder)
Steel Wool
Axles (pulleys, spring levers, overhead beater)
Silicon Spray
Warp Beam Metal Rods (where metal works against the
wood frame)
Paraffin
Warp Beam Brake Drum
Sandpaper
Lubrication
and Cleaning
There are several mechanisms on your loom which will
benefit from the occasional light application of an appropriate lubricant. Not all lubricants are suitable in the
weaving environment. Machine oils and greases, for example, may provide plenty of slick, but they also capture
yarn dust and will, over time, actually impede the action
of your loom.
Cleaning the
E-Lift Filters
Occasionally you will need to clean the air filters, which
are located on the front and back of the E-Lift II housing.
To clean, unsnap and remove the plastic baffle/covers.
Remove the foam elements and carefully wash them in
warm soapy water. Be sure the filters are completely dry
before you replace them.
Checking Cords
and Cables
Check all cords and cables for wear. All machines wear
and cords are usually the first things that fatigue on a
loom.
Page 8-
V-SERIES - LOOM MAINTENANCE
Tool Kit and
Spare Parts
Here’s a list of the basics, nice-to-have-around items:
1)
Minimum Tools
[
[
[
[
[
[
[
[
[
[
Page 8-
]
Socket Wrench with
[ ] 7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16” socket
] 6” or 8” Crescent Wrench
] Medium Standard Blade Screwdriver
] 4-1 Screwdriver or Medium Phillips and
Standard Screwdrivers
]1/8” Allen Wrench
] Level
] Paste Wax
] 0000 Steel Wool Pad
] 220# Sandpaper
] Paraffin Wax
2)
Spare Parts You Might Consider Having
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
Spare Treadle Cable (left/right)
6’ length of 350# Braided Dacron
Cord (for emergency repairs)
V-SERIES - AVL CUSTOMER SERVICE
AVL offers free technical support to the original owner of
all our looms. This means if you ever have a problem,
you can call, fax, or e-mail us and we’ll help you find a
solution. Please take advantage of this service; your
satisfaction is extremely important to us.
Customer Service Phone: (530 893-4915)
Fax: (530) 893-1372
E-Mail: [email protected]
AVL WARRANTIES
Your loom carries a full warranty on parts and labor for
two years from the date we ship it to you. Your CompuDobby is fully warranted for two years. If a part wears
or breaks during this period, we will replace or repair it
at our discretion, but at no charge to you.
AVL RETURNS
POLICY
All goods, excepting software, may be returned for refund within thirty (30) days of the shipping date.
A 15% restocking fee will be assessed for all but defective items.
AVL will pay all shipping costs for defective items within
the continental United States for the entire warranty
period. Special provisions apply for the return of looms
(please contact your sales person for more information).
AVL will generally return repair or replacement items via
UPS Ground service. Additional charges for expedited
shipping are the responsibility of the customer.
Page 9-