PatternMaker Software
Women's SuperPants Collection
Designer: Leena Lahteenmaki
Macro and Sewing Instructions
Welcome to the PatternMaker Pants SuperMacro! From four basic styles you can create over 260
variations of pants, jeans and shorts. With the extensive options available, you can easily create
flattering pants to suit any occasion, from casual jeans to elegant slacks.
The sewing instructions included with this macro refer to illustrations which are included with your
software package. These illustrations are pattern files with a “.PAT” extension. You can view or print
the illustrations by using the OPEN command, and selecting the file referred to in the instructions.
For the Pants SuperMacro you will
need several of the same
measurements as for other
PatternMaker macros. Use the
measuring chart and instructions
that are included with this macro
package. The illustration at the
right shows the measurements
dialog box. (Note that the items
you see may vary slightly,
depending on which basic pant
type you have selected.)
 PatternMaker Software and Leena Lahteenmaki
Pants SuperMacro Rev. 3/99
SuperPants Collection
When you first start the PatternMaker program, you will see a blank drawing area. To run the Pants
SuperMacro, select the MACRO command from the File menu. Or click on the icon, which has the
word MAC. (Users of PatternMaker Basic should select OPEN from the File menu, or click the OPEN
A dialog box will ask you to select a file. Each macro is a separate file in your PatternMaker directory.
The Pants SuperMacro is called SUPERPNT.MAC. Click on the name of the file, and then click OK. It
may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the macro.
You will now see a series of dialog boxes which ask questions and offer choices. To continue through
the macro, you must use your mouse to click on one of the options. If you click "Cancel," or if you click
"OK" without making a selection, the macro will abort and you will be returned to the drawing screen.
Also, be aware that you cannot move backwards through the options. You may wish to write down
which options you choose.
First you will select one of four basic starting garments: plain front, pleated front, jeans, or shorts.
Next, depending on which garment you are using, you may see any or all of the following choices:
• choice of waist style
• choice of pockets
• number of front pleats
• choice of leg width
Regardless of which garment you have selected, the macro will ask you if you want to use inches or
centimeters for your measurements. Use your mouse or arrow keys to select your choices.
After you have made your choices, a dialog box will ask you for the measurements. Fill these in from
your measurement chart. Remember to use decimal numbers, so 8-3/4 inches is 8.75 inches and so
forth. Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right spaces. When you are ready, click “OK” or
press the Enter key.
You may have to wait for the macro to run, especially if you do not have a fast computer. You will
know the macro is done when the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow and the word Command:
appears on the prompt line.
If you cannot see the pattern, or if you only see part of it, press the <END>key on your
Note: Refer to the PatternMaker User's Manual for instructions on running the program and printing
the pattern pieces.
Pattern pieces include:
• Pants front: Cut two pieces. Mark the pleats, but do not cut them.
• Pants back: Cut two pieces.
• Waistband: Cut one on fold of fabric. Cut waistband according to your actual waist
measurement. Waistband piece includes a 1-1/2" (3 cm) extension for button and buttonhole.
SuperPants Collection
Pockets: Cut two pieces for each pocket. One piece is of trouser fabric and one of lining
Interfacing: Cut an interfacing piece for the waistband, using the waistband pattern cut in half
Lining: For trouser lining, use pants pattern pieces. Cut two front pieces and two back pieces.
1. Cut waistband on fold.
2. Sew front and back darts (1). If you are sewing a pleated version, fold front pleats soft and pin or
baste them at top. Sew and overlock back center seam with elastic stitching, if possible (2).
Overlock front center seam and edges of zipper placket. Sew front center seam from inside seam
to where zipper placket begins (3). Fasten zipper according to instructions below (4).
3. If you are putting on standard pant pockets, you will need to cut off the top side corner of the front
pieces to allow hand space into pocket: do not forget to add seam allowance. Put a reinforcing strip
of non-elastic fabric (not included in pattern) into this seam to prevent pocket mouth from stretching
during use. Place under pocket (lining) along slacks front piece’s pocket line, right sides together,
and sew (5). Turn under pocket (lining) inside and edgestitch pocket mouth. Sew another row of
stitches at presser foot’s width from the first row of stitches. Place pocket corner pieces under
pocket lining with round edges matching. Sew and overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth
open (6).
4. Place front and back sections of slacks on top of each other, right sides together. Sew and
overlock side seams. Sew and overlock leg seams from cuff to cuff.
5. Fasten waistband (see separate instructions). Fold cuff seam allowances inwards and blindstitch
with machine or by hand.
6. If you want to put a lining in the slacks, cut lining pieces using the slacks patterns and sew them
without pockets. Fasten lining to slacks at waistband seam when fastening waistband. Handsew
lining at edges of zipper placket. You can also line only the front pieces of slacks. Or sew facing to
front pieces only at knee for a distance of about 4" (10 cm) up and down from knee. Fasten lining
to seams when sewing the seams.
1. Overlock edges of waistband. Fold waistband lengthwise, right side out, and press. Sew one
horizontal edge of waistband to garment, right sides together, (1). Space for button and buttonhole
extends beyond center front mark at each end of the band. Garment’s waist should always be
slightly larger than waistband. Easestitch garment waist to fit waistband.
2. Fold waistband lengthwise, right side inside, and sew across one end (buttonhole end) (2). Cut
corners and turn waistband right side out. Press raw edges of seam so that they will be inside
waistband when finished.
3. Fold seam allowance of waistband in about 2" (5 cm) from each end but leave rest of waistband
seam allowance flat (flat makes it easier to catch when sewing through from the right side but
leaves the raw edge on the wrong side of the skirt instead of tucked into the waistband). Stitch on
right side of garment along first stitch line (4) called “stitch in the ditch”. Sew buttonhole and fasten
SuperPants Collection
1. Sew seam to the point where zipper begins and mark zipper’s full length with basting. Press the
seam open. Remove basting stitches.
2. Mark front (or back) centerline with basting (1). Fold one seam allowance of zipper placket at
about 1/4" (0.5 cm) distance from front (or back) centerline (2). Sew one zipper edge under the
extended seam allowance (3).
3. Close zipper placket temporarily with pins on right side of garment (4). On wrong side pin other
zipper edge flat on seam allowance (5). Make certain that the zipper is straight and lies flat at an
even distance from edges of seam allowance. Remove pins from right side. Sew from wrong side
through all thicknesses, across bottom and up the pinned edge of zipper near zipper teeth.
If you want to, you can sew a second row of stitches one presser foot’s distance from the first one
(7). If you are making jeans or other pants that need to be very strong, strengthen bottom of zipper
placket with tight zigzag (bartack) on right side.
Flap, welt or button hole pocket: The techniques for these three kinds of pockets are similar. The
difference lies in treatment of the pocket opening.
1. Garment preparation: First, decide on the width of the pocket opening, also called the pocket line
or cutting line. Mark the pocket line with a pencil on the wrong side of the garment. Transfer
markings to the right side with basting thread (2).
2. Cut a piece of interfacing measuring 1¼ in. (3 cm) wide and 1½ in. (4 cm) longer than pocket line.
Baste or press interfacing to wrong side of garment.
3. Stitch a rectangle or “box” around pocket line as in picture (3). The edge pieces for flap, welt, or
buttonhole opening are attached to the garment along this stitched “box”. The rectangular “box” is
about 3/4" (2 cm) high and the length of the pocket opening.
4. Cut flap, welt, or buttonhole pieces along the straight grain of fabric, as described below. Always
include seam allowances. Press interfacing to wrong side of pieces. Fold pieces as described,
and place on right side of garment. With machine basting, fasten edge pieces to stitched “box” as
described below.
a. Flap Cut two pieces with a finished width equal to the cutting line plus seam allowances and a
finished length sufficient to cover the stitched “box”. Interface. Place pocket flaps right sides
together and stitch along sides. Leave raw edge to be fastened to garment. Turn piece right
side out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch if desired (1).
Place flap on the upper edge of the box with the raw edge toward the center. Pin pocket flap
on right side of garment; finished side placed over top edge of stitched “box” and raw edges
placed on pocket line. Stitch into place, stitching again on the top row of the rectangular “box”.
b. Buttonhole The buttonhole pocket mouth has two narrow folded strips of fabric meeting in the
center of the stitched “box.”
Cut a strip of fabric, width 1-1/2” (4 cm) and long enough for all the pockets. For the length of
the strip, multiply the length of each pocket line plus seam allowances, by twice the number of
Iron interfacing to strips, fold them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press lightly.
Overlock raw edges of strips. Machine baste strips 1/4 in (6 mm) from the folded edge to mark
stitching line. Place two strips on the rectangle “box”, with the folded edges meeting over the
pocket cutting line, and machine basting over the stitch lines of the “box”. Zigzag the folded
SuperPants Collection
edges together to hold them in place until the pocket is completed, then remove the zigzag.
Stitch rectangle again from wrong side.
c. Welt Cut welt piece with a length two seam allowances longer than the stitched rectangle.
Welt piece height is twice the stitched box height plus two seam allowances. Normal height of
finished welt piece is 1/2" (1-2 cm). Interface welt, overlock raw edges and fold lengthwise
wrong sides together.
Place welt on the stitched rectangle with the welt seam line along lower stitching line of “box”.
Folded edge faces down, and raw edge is turned upward toward the “box” center. From wrong
side, stitch around “box” rectangle again.
5. Attach pocket piece: Cut a rectangle with width 2-1/2" - 4-1/2" (4-6 cm) greater than pocket line
and length twice the desired pocket depth, about 16" (40 cm) total (4). If you do not have enough
garment fabric, the lower half can be of pocket lining fabric.
6. Pin pocket fabric to right side of garment over the pocket opening and the attached edging. Place
the horizontal center line of pocket fabric onto the upper edge of the stitched rectangle.
Working from the wrong side of garment (5), stitch again over the stitched “box”.
7. On wrong side of garment, slash rectangle along pocket center line and diagonally to the rectangle
corners. Cut the garment and pocket material carefully along cutting line, being careful not to cut
8. Pull pocket through the opening; turn pocket to inside and press well. Edgestitch over the
9. Turn pocket downwards, sew and overlock pocket edges (8) together. Press.
10.Turn pocket edging to its correct position on the right side of garment, press well (7). Topstitch the
edging treatment as appropriate to make sure it lies flat.
Note: An unlined patch pocket requires interfacing on the wrong side of pocket.
1. Cut pocket lining using the pocket pattern minus facing (1). Iron interfacing to pocket facing (2).
With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to upper edge of pocket, leaving an unsewn opening
about 2" (5 cm) for turning (3). Turn lining (4). Stitch sides and lower edges.
2. Trim seam. For square pocket, cut seam diagonally across lower corners. For rounded pocket,
notch curves as in picture. Open seams well and press.
3. Turn pocket right side out and slipstitch opening. Topstitch upper edge about 1" (2.5 cm) from top.
Pin pocket to garment. Stitch along sides and edges of pocket, simultaneously edgestitching it.
PatternMaker Software
Measuring instructions for SuperPants Collection
Date: _________________
Following are the instructions on how to measure for the PatternMaker SuperPants collection. Take your time and
measure carefully. Accurate measurements are critical to getting a good custom-fit pattern.
Don’t try to take the measurements yourself. Ask someone else to take them, because bending over to read the
tape will distort the measurements. Stand straight but relaxed while your measurements are being taken. You will
receive the best results if the measurements are taken over underwear.
You will need: Two (2) pieces of 1” wide elastic or heavy twill tape to mark the waist and hip points; measuring
tape; another person to read the measuring tape.
It is IMPORTANT to use the elastic bands throughout all measuring. Do not remove them before all necessary
DO NOT TIGHTEN MEASURING TAPE. Please refer to the picture related to this measuring form.
Begin measuring: Place 1-inch wide elastic bands as instructed around the following points:
Waist elastic should be at your natural waistline. Be sure the elastic is level from front to back.
Elastic should be placed around the fullest point of your hip circumference. (Make sure the elastic is
level from front to back.) Search carefully for the correct spot where the measurement is greatest.
Determine whether this point is on your buttocks (7-8 inches/18-20 cm below the waist) or on top of
your thighs (10-12 inches/25-30 cm below the waist). Using the bottom of the elastic band, record
this measurement.
Continue taking your measurements and fill in the rest of the chart below.
You can use either centimeters or inches. Measure to the closest ½ centimeter or ¼ inch. Give inches in decimals.
Be especially careful when taking the CROTCH DEPTH measurement. This is crucial for a good-fitting pattern.
After you have taken all the measurements, take this one again.
Except for cuff circumference, all measurements are body measurements. DO NOT ADD ANY EASE to the
measurements. The program does it for you.
Make a copy of this chart for each person for whom you want to make patterns.
Waist Circumference: Measure at the elastic tape
Hip Circumference: Measure over the largest part of
your bottom/thighs (at elastic)
Waist-Hip: Measure vertically from lower edge of
waist elastic to lower edge of hip elastic. Measure
at the side.
Zipper Length: Length of zipper you will use
Crotch Depth: Sit on unpadded bench or chair.
Measure from waist elastic to chair level on both
sides, and use the longer measurement. Measure
in a straight line, not along the outside hip curve
Outside Seam: Measure from waist over the outside
curvature of the hip to the desired cuff length.
Cuff Circumference: Desired cuff circumference,
not ankle circumference
Rev. 3/99
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