PatternMaker Software
Teen Girls’ (Juniors’) Collection
Designer: Leena Lahteenmaki
INTRODUCTION
The garments in this Teen Girls’ garment collection are based on the same garments as those in the
Women’s Vol. 1 Collection. However, the darts and other pattern elements are drafted for a smaller
bust, narrower hips, etc. You don’t have to be a teenager to use these patterns – anyone with a more
slender figure can use this collection.
The macros have been designed to create an entire wardrobe from a single set of measurements. The
designs are simple basic patterns which look good on most figures. Just type in your measurements,
and the program draws a complete pattern for you.
This package includes macros for making a wide range of garments. After you learn to use the
PatternMaker program, you can save time by letting the macro create the basic garment for you to
modify to your own design or you can draft your own patterns from scratch.
WHAT ARE MACROS?
Each PatternMaker macro is a small computer program which is run by PatternMaker. You will be
asked to make some style choices and type in your measurements. The program then does some
calculations and draws a garment pattern. These are complete patterns, ready to cut out and sew. All
of these macros have been tested in commercial use for a wide range of sizes and measurements.
Once you make a pattern from a macro, you can change it to create your own individual garment.
Most of these garments require an intermediate or advanced level of sewing skill. If you do not already
know how to assemble a garment, sew buttonholes, etc., you will need to refer to a general sewing text
as well as these instructions. For beginners, the Skirt macro is the easiest to make. For advanced
sewers and pattern makers, the Bodice serves as a sloper, or fitting shell, to design your own patterns.
PatternMaker has many patternmaking features, and the macros are a good way to start learning
about them. Use this booklet to get started making patterns. Practice the tutorials to see how some of
 PatternMaker Software and Leena Lahteenmaki
Teen Girls’ Collection Rev. 4/00
Teen Girls’ Collection
the PatternMaker commands are used, and read the User’s Manual to learn the details.
OVERVIEW
Here’s what you need to do to make your new set of garments with PatternMaker:
• Take your measurements. Everything else depends on having good measurements. The
measurement form included in this package provides detailed instructions on how to take the
measurements. Read the instructions carefully, and be very careful when taking the
measurements.
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If you want to make clothes for more than one person, photocopy the measurement form (both
sides) for each subject. Don’t write on the original before you copy it! You will use these
measurements for all the macros, so keep the form in a safe place for future reference. Don’t
forget to fill in the name and date – you may not remember whose measurements these are a few
months from now.
Make a test muslin. This is especially important the first time you use the macros to make sure
your measurements are good. Use the GBODICE.MAC or GPANTS.MAC macro to make a basic
fitting muslin. If it doesn’t fit right, adjust your measurements and try again.
Run the macro for the garment you want. PatternMaker will ask you for some measurements,
which you will type in. Then it will draw the pattern. If you already have a pattern on the screen,
the new items will be added to it. You can now use all of PatternMaker’s various features to modify
your pattern, if you wish. Or you can just print it out and sew it.
Add seam allowances. The macros in this collection do not automatically draw seam allowances
for the patterns, so if you want a printed seam allowance, use the OFFSET command to add it.
Suggested amounts are ¼ inch (.5 cm) for collars, (½ inch (1 cm) for most seams and 1½ inch (3
cm) for trouser hems.
Arrange for printing. You may need to use the MOVE and ROTATE commands to arrange the
pieces for the most efficient printing.
Print your pattern. If you have a small desktop printer, you will need to tape the pages together.
The pages will be marked to make it easy to assemble them.
Cut out and sew your new garment. This booklet gives you most of the sewing instructions you
need, but always rely on your common sense. We hope you enjoy your new clothes!
RUNNING A MACRO
When you first start the PatternMaker program, you will see a blank drawing area. To run the macros,
select the MACRO command from the File menu, or click on the icon which has the word MAC. (Users of
PatternMaker Basic should select OPEN from the File menu, or click the OPEN icon.)
A dialog box will ask you to select a file. Each macro is a separate file in your PatternMaker directory.
Descriptions of each macro are given later in this book. The file names in this collection are:
• GBODICE
• GBLOUSE
• GDRESS
• GJACKET
• GPANTS
• GPULLOVER
• GSHIRT
• GSKIRT
Click on the name of the file, and then click “OK”. It may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the
macro.
You will now see a series of dialog boxes which ask questions and offer choices. The dialog boxes are
different for each macro. To continue through the macro, you must use your mouse to click on one of
the options. If you click "Cancel," or if you click "OK" without making a selection, the macro will abort
and you will be returned to the drawing screen. Also, be aware that you cannot move backwards
through the options. You may wish to write down which options you choose.
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After you’ve made your garment style choices, a dialog box will ask you for the measurements. The
illustration at the right shows the first of two measurements dialog
boxes. Fill these in from your measurement chart. Remember to use
decimal numbers:
1/8----------.125
1/4----------.25
3/8----------.375
1/2----------.5
5/8----------.625
3/4----------.75
7/8----------.875
Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right spaces. When you
are ready, click “OK” or press the <Enter> key.
You may have to wait a minute for the macro to run, especially if you
don’t have a fast computer. You will know the macro is done when the hourglass cursor changes back
to an arrow and the word Command: appears on the prompt line.
IF YOU CANNOT SEE THE PATTERN PIECES, OR IF YOU ONLY SEE PART OF THEM, PRESS
THE <END> KEY TO VIEW ALL THE PIECES IN THE DRAWING.
Look at your macro
The macro will draw your new pattern in the drawing area. If you already have a drawing, the new
items will be added to the existing ones. To zoom out and see the entire pattern, press the <END>
key. To zoom in, use <F2> or <F3>. Use the arrow keys to move up, down, left, and right. (See the
PAN and ZOOM commands in the Help file.)
ARRANGE YOUR PATTERN
Now, you can use the PatternMaker editing features to make changes to your pattern. PatternMaker
has tools to make almost any alteration. Some simple changes you may want to make before you print
are:
• Erasing an object (ERASE command)
• Add seam allowances (OFFSET command)
• Moving an object (MOVE command)
• Rotating an object 90 or 180 degrees (ROTATE command)
• Label your pieces (TEXT command)
Refer to the User’s Manual or the Help file for detailed instructions on these commands.
IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE
If you make a mistake in one of the above operations, you can use the UNDO command to undo your
last change. The Undo icon looks like a letter “U.” If you make a really big mistake, you can use the
New command (on the File menu) to start all over. Luckily, this isn’t hard to do.
READ THE MANUAL
Here are some other commands you’ll want to learn before long. Look them up in the User’s Manual
or the on-line Help system.
• MOVE VERTEX to adjust shapes
• SET LINE to draw dotted lines
• COLOR to draw in different colors
• GROUP to keep groups of things together
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Teen Girls’ Collection
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DIM and SET/MEASURE DISTANCE to check measurements
POLY to draw your own objects
COPY and MIRROR to copy objects
LAYER to hide things from view
Note: These commands are available only in the Home Version and higher.
PRINT YOUR PATTERN
Before you print out your pattern, you should use the MOVE command to arrange the pieces in the
most efficient way you can, to save paper. The pieces aren’t arranged for you, because the best
arrangement will depend on your measurements and the size of the printer you have. If possible,
arrange the pieces to fit within a rectangle no wider than your printer’s page size. Make sure you leave
enough room for seam allowances, if you didn’t already add them.
We assume you already have your printer set up and working. PatternMaker works with any Windowsdriven printing or plotting device. If you have a printer with tractor-feed paper, print in Landscape mode
to make the pages connect in the correct order.
See “Printing a pattern” in the Help file for details about the various Print commands, and “Assembling
a printed pattern” for instructions on putting the pages together.
TESTING MEASUREMENTS WITH TEST GARMENT
To test that you have taken the measurements correctly, it is strongly advised that you make muslins
from the basic bodice and pants macros and try them on. This muslin will make your own customized
fitting shell. Advanced sewers can use this as a basis for new patterns. Sew it with actual seam
allowances and try on. Close with pins at front and center.
These are the most important measurements for the macros to work well:
• back width
• front length
• back length
To see if these are taken correctly, run macro GBODICE.MAC
(see the following section “How to run a Macro”) with your
measurements.
Back piece should be as in picture; shoulder tip (1) somewhat
outside back armscye edge (2). Line from point 1 to point 2
should never curve outwards (3). If this should be the case,
recheck your shoulder length measurement and your back
width measurement.
Front shoulder slope can vary depending on front and back lengths and on size of bust. The angle of
the shoulder line may be different than what you are accustomed to, because the macros are designed
to vary this angle to account for bust size. A steep shoulder line indicates a large bust (4). If you don’t
have a large bust, check front and back length measurements. Either front measurement is too much
or back measurement is too little.
If front shoulder slop is almost horizontal (5), you must have long back compared with front. This is the
case i.e. when your back is rounded or when you have a flat bust. If not, check front and back length
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measurements. Either front measurement is too little or back measurement is too much.
If you don’t have any of these properties, your basic bodice should look something like picture (6).
MAKE A MUSLIN WITH BASIC BODICE PATTERN
The basic bodice GBODICE.MAC is a fitting shell, not an actual garment. Use it to make your own
customized fitting shell (sloper).
Note:
• bodice should be very tight, like a “second skin.” Do no add any ease in the measurements, since
this is done by each pattern macro.
• you cannot make any garments with this pattern (with the exception of knit or elastic fabrics when
you, however, might need to do something to the size of the neck opening). This is a base pattern
for further designs of your own for which you have to add the needed ease for each garment.
• sleeve cap has ease which is to be shrunk when sewing sleeve to garment. Some fabrics are not
easy to shrink, therefore do not mind in this phase if there seems to be too much ease in sleeve
cap.
Things to check for:
• horizontal levels are correct (bust, waist, hip) front/back
• if bust is not in correct place, change neck-bust measurement
• if waist is not in its correct place, change front length and/or back length (note that you might
not need to change both)
• if hip is not in its correct place, change hip height measurement
• back width is correct
• shoulder length is correct
• width is correct on bust, waist, abdomen and hip
If your body is asymmetrical:
You will have to check separate measurements for each side of your body. This can be done with test
bodice, too.
If you have to increase or decrease shoulder slope, you cannot do it by changing measurements.
Make separate patterns for each side and adjust with PatternMaker’s MOVE VERTEX command.
Once you have measured the needed amount to be corrected, you can use the same correction with all
subsequent garments.
What if it still doesn’t fit?
If your bodice is still a poor fit after checking the above:
• Recheck your measurements. Make sure that you are measuring at the points indicated in the
instructions and the illustration.
Sometimes, more adjustments will be necessary. For some measurements, it’s hard to judge the
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Teen Girls’ Collection
correct points to take the measurements until you’ve done it a few times. For a few people, you will
need to modify the measurements even though they were taken correctly. Here are some things to try:
• Shoulder length. Adjust this if the shoulder seam forms an odd angle with the armscye. Increasing
this will give more of a curve in the upper armscye and will make a sharper angle where the
armscye meets the shoulder seam. This can be changed by up to ½ inch (1 cm) from the
measured value.
• Back width. Adjust this if the armscyes are not in the right place. Increasing the back width
transfers fullness from the chest to the back and moves the armscyes forward, and vice versa. For
instance, if the bodice is tight across the chest and puffs out in back, you should decrease the back
width. Choosing the correct points for measuring the back width requires some practice, so you
may have to make some adjustments here the first few times you do it.
• Neck. Increasing the neck measurement makes the neckline larger, of course. It also makes the
shoulder line steeper. You may need to adjust this because it’s easy to put the measuring tape a
little bit too high when measuring, which will make the neck measurement too small.
• Crotch depth. This is a critical measurement in fitting pants. It’s better to make this too large than
too small, because any excess will come out in the waist height and can be corrected when you
sew it.
Try your changes on the computer
Before you start sewing a muslin with your modified measurements, try your changes on the computer
screen. Use the COLOR command to draw the pattern in two different colors, one with the old
measurements and one with the new, and compare them. You can learn a lot about pattern
construction this way. One of the great advantages of using a computer is that you can try out more
modifications than would be possible if you had to draft each pattern by hand.
Does it look right?
If your new, modified pattern looks better, it probably is. If it looks wrong, it probably is. Keep
experimenting until you have a pattern that corrects all the fitting problems in your first muslin.
When you have determined what changes will make your bodice fit correctly, write down the new
measurements and make another fitting muslin. If this fits properly, save the corrected numbers on
your measurement chart.
Important – Use the corrected measurements for all macro patterns. Remember that the purpose of
making the fitting muslin is to find the correct values for the measurements on the chart. Once you
have got these right, use the same values for all the other macros. Don’t use the old numbers. Ease
for each pattern is added by the program.
MAKE A MUSLIN WITH BASIC PANTS PATTERN
Make a test garment with basic pants pattern i.e. without pleats in front. Check that the pants fit. If
they don’t fit properly, change the recorded measurements accordingly and you will have a well-fitting
trouser pattern. Pants fit is snug, something like jeans. If you want pants with more ease, use pleated
version or else add to measurements of waist, abdomen and hip.
Things to check for:
• waist line is correct (if waist of pants is too low, add to crotch depth measurement and vice versa)
• width is correct on waist, abdomen and hip (if it is not, increase or decrease measurements
accordingly)
• pants fit at front crotch. Double-check the crotch depth vertical measurement. If necessary, you
can correct the situation by moving front crotch end to make it longer or shorter. Caution: Moving
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Teen Girls’ Collection
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the crotch end or shaping the crotch is a difficult change for the inexperience sewer, and may
cause surprises.
pants fit at back crotch (if they don’t, you can correct this by moving back crotch end to make it
longer or shorter)
you can add ease to future pants by increasing the waist, abdomen or hip measurements
MAKE A MUSLIN WITH BASIC SKIRT PATTERN
Make a test garment also with skirt basic pattern. Check that the skirt fits. Skirt should fit quite tightly.
If you want to have a skirt with more ease, add to measurements of waist, abdomen and hip.
Things to check for:
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waist line is correct (if waist of skirt is too low, add to abdomen height measurement, and vice
versa)
hip line is correct (if hip of skirt is too low, decrease hip height measurement, and vice versa)
width is correct on waist, abdomen and hip (if they are not, increase or decrease the
measurements accordingly)
TEEN GIRLS’ GARMENT MACRO DESCRIPTIONS:
BASIC BODICE (GBODICE.MAC)
This is the only pattern which you cannot use as it is because it has too little fitting ease. Sew a muslin
with this pattern to see that your measurements have been taken correctly. Basic bodice should be
like a “second skin” to you. If it does not fit, check the measurements. If the basic bodice fits perfectly
on you, you can make any other pattern with the same measurements with peace of mind. All other
macros derive from this basic pattern. Basic bodice has a circumference ease of 3¼ in (8 cm) on bust,
2½ in (6 cm) on waist, and 1½ in (4 cm) on abdomen and hip.
PULLOVER (GPULLOV.MAC)
This is a fitting pullover without darts or collar. With collars macro (COLLARS.MAC) you can draw a
collar for it, if you want to. First change neck opening similar to that in basic bodice, but 3/8 inch (1
cm) wider for each 1/4 neck opening and 3/8 in. (1 cm) deeper. Eases “minimum” and “normal” are
only meant to be used with knit or elastic fabrics. Which ease to use depends on how elastic the fabric
is.
FITTED BLOUSE (GBLOUSE.MAC)
Blouse is a fitted garment with shoulder pads, princess seams in front and waist, and shoulder darts in
back. It is meant to be worn under jackets, hem on or under skirt or pants waist. If you want to sew a
loose fitting blouse from this pattern, leave waist darts unsewn. There are two alternative sleeves from
which you can choose: fitting sleeve which has no cuff, and shirt sleeve with cuff. There is a
convertible collar. If you want to, you can add a different kind of collar for this garment with the collars
macro (COLLARS.MAC) using the measured garment neck length.
If you want to sew a loose-fitting blouse from this pattern, leave waist darts unsewn. You can also use
this pattern to develop a pattern for a garment like a men’s vest. Choose maximum ease option. Cut
front neck and hem according to your wishes and erase sleeves. Draw facings.
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SHIRT (GSHIRT.MAC)
Shirt is a boxy, loose fitting garment like a men’s dress shirt with dropped sleeve caps. This pattern
can also be used for other boxy garments such as tunics, T-shirts, sweaters, blazers etc. Shirt has a
two-piece shirt collar. Collar band can be used as a Chinese collar. With the collars macro
(COLLARS.MAC), you can add different collars.
JACKET (GJACKET.MAC)
Woman’s suit-type jacket with shoulder pads. The cut is princess-style, with seams to shoulders.
You have options for single- or double-breasted jacket, with three ease options. Minimum ease
creates a close-fitting jacket to be worn over underwear. Under a medium ease jacket you can wear a
blouse. Maximum ease jacket is to be worn indoors in winter or outdoors in spring, summer, and
autumn. It is meant to be sewn of thick (wool) fabric. A light sweater can be worn under it.
Jacket also has two sleeve options (one-piece or two-piece), and three lapel heights: low (from waist),
normal (middle of waist-bust), and high (from bust).
Jacket has shoulder princess seams in front and back pieces. You can easily change the seams to
armscye by moving upper end of seams to armscye and closing shoulder darts. Try making other
kinds of designs by moving darts.
Jacket length can be freely determined, so this macro can also be used to create patterns for a jacketstyle dress.
Jacket has a traditional tailored collar. By joining collar to front piece you can change the jacket to
shawl collar jacket. Use Move and Join commands to do this. Shape collar outline according to your
wishes. If you want to change jacket neck to jewel type you can correct the neck opening by
comparing it with the neck opening of a basic bodice. Make neck line 3/8 inch (1 cm) wider (per 1/4
neck) and 3/8 inch (1 cm) deeper if you do this. You can use collars macro to create a different kind of
a collar. Change neck opening as for jewel neckline before attaching one of these collars.
You can also change neck opening to V-shape. When doing so, do not make it completely straight,
but curve the edges a bit.
DRESS (GDRESS.MAC)
Dress has options for sleeveless and sleeve versions. Sleeveless version has smaller armscyes and
facings for the armscyes. Both have neck facings. Both have three alternative eases. Dress has
dividing seams in front and back pieces. You can change the design of the dress by moving shoulder
darts as described for jacket. Sleeve is a closely fitting sleeve with narrow wrist and a dart at elbow.
For a button slit, transfer dart to wrist. If you are using elastic fabric, you can omit the elbow dart: just
stretch sleeve seam at front edge to fit it to back edge.
The dress has a jewel neck opening. There is a 12" (30 cm) long zipper at back center seam at waist.
By changing the hem length, you can use this macro to create dresses from mini to full length. There
is a back slit at hem. For short dresses (above the knee) or of elastic fabrics, omit the slit.
SKIRT (GSKIRT.MAC)
Skirt is a straight basic skirt with back slit. It tapers slightly toward the hem. The skirt has either one or
two darts at front and back waist, depending on difference between waist and hip measurements. By
changing the hem length, you can use this macro to create skirts from mini to full length.
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PANTS (GPANTS.MAC)
Slacks have options for normal fitted version with darts at front and back waist, and a version with
pleated front. Fitted version has a further option for normal and narrow legs. Narrow legged slacks
are like jeans.
ABOUT EASE
Patterns cannot be drawn exactly according to your body measurements because you could not move
in the finished garment. Also, fashion determines how much ease there is in certain garments.
Jackets, dresses and blouses, for example, are rather tight-fitting and body-hugging nowadays. A few
years ago, jackets used to be boxy and straight.
The amount of ease calculated for PatternMaker patterns is moderate, according to prevailing fashion.
Ease is also added for shoulder pads, if you have chosen the shoulder pad option when running the
macro.
Ease for basic patterns (Basic Bodice, Skirt and Pants) is predetermined and cannot be changed.
They are close-fitting garments with only the needed fitting ease added.
If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body, pants or skirt pieces vertically in two
and move parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. Don't add or
decrease anything to side, armscye or sleeve seams. This is also the technique to be used, if you
want to add ease to a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket.
Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by adding space to (only) side seams.
The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own designs and you have to add the needed ease
for fitting and style yourself. Basic bodice is not to be used as-is for any garment. It will fit like “a
second skin.”
Other garment patterns have three ease choices:
Minimum, Normal, and Maximum. Be sure to notice the numbers given in the Ease dialog box. They
will tell you how much ease is to be added. “Normal” ease for the Lshirt macro is not the same as
“Normal” ease for the Lblouse.
You should always make the first garment with normal ease. This is good for most cases. It contains
enough wearing ease as well as the ease needed for garment design. Don’t add anything to your body
measurements – the program calculates the needed ease. Garment patterns drawn with PatternMaker
macros are ready to be sewn as they are.
Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease.
Minimum ease:
• garments of very thin fabrics
• close-fitting garments and evening dresses
• garments made of elastic fabrics
• closely fitting sleeveless dresses
• underwear
Maximum ease:
• garments of thick fabrics
• jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use
• garments for leisure use
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•
loose-fitting garments like (tunics, T-shirts, sweaters etc.) outer garments to be worn over other
garments
You might want your garments to have more or less ease than normally used. Once you are familiar
with the patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or minimum according to your wishes. By
testing different eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes. (Keep in mind that the type of
fabric you choose will also affect the amount of ease that will be appropriate.)
You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease. It won’t
work. You don’t know all the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as the
program calculates some measurements for you.
EASE CHART
Ease is normally described by giving ease at bust circumference. There is also ease at other places
such as at neck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length, etc. These
eases are not given in the following table, but the differences correspond to bust ease.
Garment
Basic Bodice
Pullover
Blouse
Shirt
Jacket
Dress
Minimum
-- 7/8” (2 cm)
+ 4” (10 cm)
+ 5-1/2” (14 cm)
+ 4” (10 cm)
+ 4” (10 cm)
Normal
+ 3-1/4” (8 cm)
+0 cm
+ 4-3/4” (12 cm)
+ 6-3/8” (16 cm)
+ 4-3/4” (12 cm)
+ 4-3/4” (12 cm)
Maximum
-+ 3-1/4” (8 cm)
+ 5-1/2” (14 cm)
+ 7-1/8” (18 cm)
+ 5-1/2” (14 cm)
+ 5-1/2” (14 cm)
Garment
Skirt waist
Pants waist
Waist
+ 7/8” (2 cm)
+ 0 cm
Abdomen
+1-1/4” (3 cm)
+ 1-5/8” (4 cm)
Hip
+1-1/4” (3 cm)
+ 1-5/8” (4 cm)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
FOLLOW THESE STEPS FOR WORRY-FREE CONSTRUCTION
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
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When you buy your fabric, ask how much it will shrink when washed. In all cases, when the fabric is
washable and when you are not sure that the fabric won't shrink, it is safe to wash and iron it before
cutting. Don't forget to preshrink lining as well.
•
Cut pattern pieces on folded fabric, right side of the fabric folded inwards. Make the necessary
marks on the fabric with chalk or pencil. If the fabric is plaid, striped or checkered, align the hem
lines at the same point on the repeating pattern. For sleeves, the repeating pattern should match
where the bottom of the armscye and bottom of sleeve cap meet. Vertical centerline of sleeve
should be placed at a vertical stripe or at center of a plaid square. Jacket, blouse and dress front
center should be placed the same way.
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Transfer notch marks from your pattern to the fabric by cutting snips (depth 1/4 inch/5 mm) into
seam allowances. When joining garment pieces, place corresponding notch marks in the two
pieces together.
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Cut and iron interfacings onto under collars, facings, waist bands, slit facings, blouse and shirt
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button extensions and sleeve cuffs. If you use interfacing at jacket's hem seam allowance, you get
a neat hem.
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If you sew a patch pocket and don't line it, fasten interfacing to it also. Woven interfacing gives the
best results. The macros draw all facings on top of the garment pieces, with dashed lines. If you
want to print them apart from the pieces, use the Move command to move them before printing.
•
Cut lining along with garment patterns without space for facings (but remember to add seam
allowances) and hem seam allowances. Do not cut lining for collars. Lining fabric usually is not as
elastic as garment fabric, so cut it with about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) wider seam allowances than for the
garment pieces.
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Use the longest possible machine stitches for basting. It is quick and the stitches can easily be
removed.
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The macros make the patterns without seam allowances. If you want to add seam allowances, use
PatternMaker's Draw Offset and Draw Seam Allowances commands. The suggested seam widths
are 3/8 inch (1 cm) for most seams, and 1 - 1/2 inch (4 cm) for hems and sleeve ends without cuffs.
When you are sewing your first garment with PatternMaker patterns, add extra seam allowance so
that you can make corrections to the garment if it should be necessary.
•
You will get the best result if you always press seams and darts as you sew. First iron seams or
darts flat without turning them to either direction. Then press them towards center, side seam
towards front. Two-piece sleeve seams are both pressed towards shoulder mark. Use a steam
iron. If you press seams from right side of the fabric, use pressing cloth if necessary.
•
Edgestitching gives a well-finished look to garment, but only if it is straight and even. Long stitches
of 1/4 inch (4-5 mm) look best in edgestitching. Sew edgestitching only after you have ironed the
seam.
HOW TO FASTEN WAISTBAND to skirt or pants
1. Iron interfacing to wrong side of waistband. Overlock edges. Fold waistband lengthwise, right
sides out, and press. Sew one horizontal edge of waistband to garment, right sides together, (1).
Space for button and buttonhole extension extends beyond center front mark at each end of the
band. Garment’s waist should always be slightly larger than waistband. Easestitch garment waist
to fit waistband.
2. Fold waistband lengthwise, right side inside,
and sew across one end (buttonhole end)
(2). Cut corners and turn waistband right
side out. Press seam allowance upward
(raw edges of seam will be inside waistband
when finished).
3. Fold seam allowance of waistband in about 2
inches (5 cm) from each end but leave rest
of waistband seam allowance flat (flat makes
it easier to catch when sewing through from
the right side, but leaves the raw edge on
the wrong side of the skirt instead of tucked
into the waistband). Stitch on right side of
garment along first stitch line (4) called
“stitch in the ditch.” Sew button hole and
fasten button.
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HOW TO SEW POCKETS
Flap, welt or buttonhole pocket: The techniques for these three kinds of pockets are similar. The
difference lies in treatment of the pocket opening.
1. Garment preparation: First, decide on the width of the pocket opening, also called the pocket line
or cutting line. Mark the pocket line with a pencil on the wrong side of the garment. Transfer
markings to the right side with basting thread (2).
2. Cut a piece of interfacing measuring 1¼ in. (3 cm) wide and 1½ in. (4 cm) longer than pocket line.
Baste or press interfacing to wrong side of garment.
3. Stitch a rectangle or “box” around pocket line as in picture (3). The edge pieces for flap, welt, or
buttonhole opening are attached to the garment along this stitched “box.” The rectangular “box” is
about ¾ inch (2 cm) high and the length of the pocket opening.
4. Cut flap, welt, or buttonhole pieces along the straight grain of fabric, as described below. Always
include seam allowances. Press interfacing to wrong side of pieces. Fold pieces as described,
and place on right side of garment. With machine basting, fasten edge pieces to stitched “box” as
described below.
a) Flap Cut two pieces with a finished width equal to the cutting line plus seam allowances and a
finished length sufficient to cover the stitched “box.” Interface. Place pocket flaps right sides
together and stitch along sides. Leave raw edge to be fastened to garment. Turn piece right
side out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch if desired (1).
b) Buttonhole The buttonhole pocket mouth has two narrow folded strips of fabric meeting in the
center of the stitched “box.”
Cut a strip of fabric, width 1½ “ (4 cm) and long enough for all the pockets. For the length of
the strip, multiply the length of each pocket plus seam allowances, by twice the number of
pockets.
Iron interfacing to strips, fold them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press lightly.
Overlock raw edges of strips. Machine baste strips ¼” (6 mm) from the folded edge to mark
stitching line. Place two strips on the rectangular “box,” with the folded edges meeting over the
pocket cutting line, and machine basting over the stitch lines of the “box.” Zigzag the folded
edges together to hold them in place until the pocket is completed, then remove the zigzag.
Stitch rectangle again from wrong side.
c) Welt Cut welt piece with a length two seam allowances longer than the stitched rectangle.
Welt piece height is twice the stitched box height, plus two seam allowances. Normal height of
finished welt piece is ½” (1-2 cm). Interface welt, overlock raw edges and fold lengthwise
wrong sides together.
Place welt on the stitched rectangle with the welt seam line along lower stitching line of “box.”
Folded edge faces down, and raw edge is turned upward toward the “box” center. From wrong
side, stitch around “box” rectangle again.
5. Attach pocket piece: Cut a rectangle with width 2½ -4½ inches (4-6 cm) greater than pocket line
and length twice the desired pocket depth, about 16 inches (40 cm) total (4). If you don’t have
enough garment fabric, the lower half can be of pocket lining fabric.
6. Pin pocket fabric to right side of garment over the pocket opening and the attached edging. Place
the horizontal centerline of pocket fabric onto the upper edge of the stitched rectangle.
Working from the wrong side of garment (5), stitch again over the stitched “box.”
7. On wrong side of garment, slash rectangle along pocket center line and diagonally to the rectangle
corners. Cut the garment and pocket material carefully along cutting line, being careful not to cut
stitching (6). DO NOT CUT POCKET FLAP, BUTTONHOLE, OR WELT pieces.
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8. Pull pocket through the opening; turn pocket to inside and press well. Edgestitch over the
rectangle.
9. Turn pocket downwards, sew and overlock pocket edges (8) together. Press.
10. Turn pocket edging to its correct position on the right side of garment, press well (7). Topstitch the
edging treatment as appropriate to make sure it lies flat.
PATCH POCKET WITH LINING
Note: An unlined patch pocket requires interfacing on the wrong side of pocket.
1. Cut pocket lining using the pocket pattern minus facing (1). Iron interfacing to pocket facing (2).
With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to upper edge of pocket, leaving an unsewn opening
about 2” (5 cm) for turning (3). Turn lining (4). Stitch sides and lower edges.
2. Trim seam. For square pocket, cut seam diagonally across lower corners. For rounded pocket,
notch curves as in picture. Open seams well and press.
3. Turn pocket right side out and slipstitch opening. Topstitch upper edge about 1” (2.5 cm) from top.
Pin pocket to garment. Stitch along sides and edges of pocket, simultaneously edgestitching it.
HOW TO SEW SIDE POCKETS
1. Cut 4 pieces for pockets, 2 for
pocket back pieces and 2 for
pocket linings.
2. Place pocket lining piece on
the shell, right sides together.
Sew along pocket mouth (1).
Cut seam allowance diagonally
(2).
3. Turn pocket lining to inside
and topstitch pocket mouth (3).
Place pocket back piece under
pocket lining piece edges
matching (4). Sew and
overlock along round and bottom edges. Pocket back piece is attached to side seam when sides
are sewn. Be careful not to sew pocket mouth.
HOW TO SEW ZIPPER to pants and skirt
1. Sew seam to the point where zipper begins and mark zipper’s full length with basting. Press the
seam open. Remove basting stitches.
2. Mark front (or back) centerline with basting (1). Fold one seam allowance of zipper placket at
about ¼” (0.5 cm) distance from front (or back) centerline (2). Sew one zipper edge under the
extended seam allowance (3).
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3. Close zipper placket temporarily with pins on right side of garment (4). On wrong side pin other
zipper edge flat on seam allowance (5). Make certain that the zipper is straight and lies flat at an
even distance from edges of seam allowance. Remove pins from right side. Sew from wrong side
through all thicknesses, across bottom and up the pinned edge of zipper near zipper teeth.
If you want to, you can sew a second row of stitches one presser foot’s distance from the first one
(7). If you are making jeans or other pants that need to be very strong, strengthen bottom of zipper
placket with tight zigzag (bartack) on right side.
For an unnoticeable zipper placket:
Sew zipper directly onto garment seam, placing zipper upside down on a basted seam on wrong
side of garment. The distance between the seam and the zipper stitching is the width of the
presser foot. Basting is removed after sewing. This kind of a zipper is good for a dress back seam
and is also widely used in skirts.
HOW TO SEW COLLARS for shirts and blouses
1. Iron interfacing to two under collar pieces (both collar band and collar) (1). Fold neckline seam
allowance of collar band inwards and baste (2).
2. Sew collar together at outer edges, leaving lower edge raw. Trim seam allowance at corners.
3. Turn collar right side out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch.
4. Sew upper collar band pieces together at upper seam, sandwiching collar between them. Leave
neckline edge raw. Trim seam allowance at corners and at curves. Turn collar right side out, open
seams well and press.
5. Stitch collar assembly to shirt/blouse neck along raw edge, right side of collar against wrong side of
shirt/blouse. Turn seam allowance up. Pin basted edge of collar on shirt’s/blouse’s neck to right
side. Baste. Blindstitch or stitch. Edgestitch lower part of collar.
6. Sew convertible collars accordingly (5). Notice that convertible collars are placed at front center of
shirt/blouse and not over extension for buttons as for shirt collar.
HOW TO ATTACH COLLARS
1. For the collar, cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 piece of interfacing. The under collar piece is on the
inside, hidden by the upper piece, when the garment is completed.
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2. Overlock button placket and front center edges. Sew front center seam from hem to where button
placket begins (1). Fold button placket inwards along fold line and sew along bottom (2) and top
(3) ends from fold line to front center. Cut seam allowances diagonally at point where seam ends,
so that button placket can be turned right side out.
3. Turn button placket right side out (4). Place button plackets' front center marks on top of each
other and sew a box at bottom end of placket. Stitch through all layers of fabric.
4. Iron interfacing to under collar. Turn bottom seam allowance of under collar inside and baste (5).
5. Place collar pieces with right sides together and sew along edges (6). Trim seam allowances and
cut corners. Turn right side out.
6. Sew raw edge of upper collar to shell's neck from front center to front center, right sides together.
Press seam allowance upwards and pin basted edge of under collar on top of previous seam. Sew.
If you have difficulties in sewing a neat collar, sew basted edge of under collar by hand.
HOW TO SEW AND ATTACH SLEEVE CUFFS
1. Fold in seam allowance of one
long edge of sleeve cuff and
baste (1).
2. Fold cuffs horizontally in two, right
sides inside, and sew along ends
(2). Note that seam allowance of
one edge has been folded in, but
the other is unfolded, so the
edges don't meet. Cut seam
allowance diagonally at corners
and turn cuffs right side out.
3. Cut slits at ends of sleeves and
overlock edges. Turn seam allowances inside and edgestitch on right side (3). Fold slit with right
side inside and sew across bottom of slit (4).
4. Fold ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats near split (5). Sew raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with
right side of cuff against wrong side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and press. Pin
basted edge of cuff onto previous seam and edgestitch from right side.
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5. Sew buttonholes and attach buttons to cuffs.
HOW TO SEW BACK SLIT FOR SKIRT OR DRESS
1. Overlock back center seam. Baste seam for zipper (1), sew back center seam between zipper and
slit (2), and baste folding line for slit (3). Press seam open. Cut seam allowance diagonally at
upper end of slit (4).
2. Fold vertical seam allowance of
one half of slit inside, and
edgestitch (5). Press flat (6).
3. Fold other half of slit (along right
side of back centerline) inwards
and sew across bottom at hemline
(7).
4. Turn slit out to its correct position.
Strengthen top of slit with
horizontal or diagonal stitch line
through all thicknesses on right
side (8).
SEWING THE SKIRT
1. Cut waist band on fold.
2. Sew front and back darts (1). Sew back slit (2) according to instructions above. Sew and overlock
side seams (3). Fasten zipper (4) according to instructions above.
3. Overlock back seam of lining
and slit edges of hole (5).
Fold seam allowances along
slit inwards and edgestitch (6).
Baste back seam from top to
where the end of the zipper
will be, and sew from there to
slit hole. Press back seam
open and remove zipperbasting stitches. Edgestitch
zipper slit.
4. Fold waist darts to form soft
pleats and pin (7). Sew and
overlock side seams. Fold seam allowance for hem inside twice and sew. Make sure that the
lining will be about an inch (a couple of centimeters) shorter than the skirt when both are done.
5. Place lining inside skirt and pin at waist, wrong side against wrong side and side seams matching.
Easestitch waist with normal seam allowance, using your machine's longest stitches to fasten lining
to skirt.
6. Fasten waistband to waist according to above instructions. Tighten or loosen waist easestitching
so that waistband fits to skirt waist. The result should have no gathers or wrinkles.
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7. Fold skirt hem allowance and blindstitch with machine or by hand. Sew buttonhole and fasten
button.
SEWING THE BLOUSE
1. Fold front edge's seam allowances (1 cm) inwards and baste (1). Fold again, but now with right
side inside along button extension fold line. Stitch button extension across top and bottom edges
(2). If you are going to sew convertible collar to blouse, stitch top end from fold only to center front,
and cut seam allowance diagonally there. Turn button extension to its proper position and sew
along folded edge of seam allowance on wrong side.
2. Sew and overlock front dividing seams (3). Sew back shoulder and waist darts (4). Sew and
overlock shoulder seams.
3. Fasten collar according to instructions above. Sew convertible collar beginning from front center,
and shirt collar beginning from edge of button extension (fold).
4. Cut sleeve slits at sleeve ends. Overlock slit edges, turn inwards and edgestitch (5). Stitch across
end of slits on wrong side (6).
5. Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance (7). Sew sleeves to armscyes along
ease stitching, right sides together, sleeves' shoulder mark matching blouse's shoulder seams.
Pull ends of easestitching along cap to adjust ease. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve
cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should
be as much ease as possible but no wrinkles at cap seams when ready. Overlock.
6. Sew and overlock sleeve and side seams continuously from blouse hem to sleeve end.
7. Fold in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (8). Fold cuffs horizontally in
two, right sides inside, and sew along ends. Note that seam allowance of one edge has been
folded in and the other is not folded, so the edges don't meet. Cut seam allowance diagonally at
corners and turn cuffs right side out. Fold ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats at distance between
slit and sleeve center line.
8. Sew raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with cuff's right side against wrong side of sleeve. Turn
seam allowance inside cuffs and edgestitch basted edges to sleeves from right side.
9. Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons to front center and to
sleeve cuffs.
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SEWING A SHIRT (see picture for blouse)
Sew according to sewing instructions for blouse. Shirt, however, does not have front dividing seams or
back darts.
SEWING THE PULLOVER
1. Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams (1). Sew and overlock shoulder seams of neck facing
(2). Place neck facing on pullover, neck right sides together, and sew with normal seam allowance
(3). Notch seam allowances at intervals of about 3/4 inch (2 cm). Turn facing inside pullover and
press. Edgestitch from right side, or sew only through garment and facing seam allowances near
fold line. Fasten facing to shoulder seams by hand with small stitches.
2. Easestitch sleeve caps along seam
line (4). Sew and overlock sleeve
seams (5). Turn sleeve right side out
and pullover wrong side out. Place
sleeve inside pullover (right sides
together) so that sleeve shoulder
mark matches with pullover shoulder
seam and sleeve seam matches with
pullover side seam (6). Pull ends of
ease stitching along sleeve cap to
adjust ease. Sew along ease
stitching and overlock sleeve to
pullover. If there tends to be too
much ease in sleeve cap (some
fabrics tolerate more ease than others
do), place sleeve lower at armpit.
There should be no wrinkles at cap
seams when done.
3. Fold hem and sleeve cuff allowances inside and sew with twin needle on right side of pullover. Cut
excess fabric from inside near stitch line.
SEWING THE DRESS (see pullover picture)
1. Sew and overlock vertical seams at front and back pieces. Overlock back center seam (use at
least ¾” or 2 cm seam allowance to leave room to fasten zipper). Sew back seam from neck to
zipper, baste for length of zipper, sew seam to back slit and baste along length of slit.
2. Sew slit according to separate instructions above.
3. Fasten invisible zipper according to separate instructions above.
4. Continue according to instructions for sewing pullover. Blindstitch hem and sleeve ends, however,
with machine or by hand.
SEWING THE PANTS
Pattern pieces include:
Pants front: Cut two pieces. Two styles are available – either with darts or with pleats. Mark the
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darts or pleats, but do not cut them.
Pants back: Cut two pieces. Do not cut out the darts.
Waistband: Cut one on fold of fabric. Waistband piece includes a 1½” extension for button and
buttonhole.
Pockets: Cut two pieces for each pocket. One piece is of trouser fabric and one of lining material.
Interfacing: Cut an interfacing piece for the waistband, using the waistband pattern cut in half
lengthwise.
Lining: For trouser lining, use pants pattern pieces. Cut two front pieces and two back pieces.
DARTS AND PLEATS (1)
To make darts in front or back, fold the dart lines with right sides together. Stitch on the dart lines.
Press fold of dart toward center of garment.
To make pleats in each FRONT, bring pleat lines right sides together and pin or baste them at top.
BACK SEAM (2)
Sew and overlock back center seam, with elastic stitching if possible.
FRONT SEAM AND ZIPPER (3-4)
Overlock front center seam and edges of zipper placket. Sew front center seam from inside seam to
where zipper placket begins (3).
Fasten zipper according to general instructions above.
POCKETS (5-6)
Cut front piece pocket corner off, don't forget to add seam allowance.
Put a reinforcing strip of non-elastic fabric (not included in pattern) into the seam to prevent pocket
mouth from stretching during use. Place pocket lining along slacks front piece's pocket line, right
sides together, and sew (5). Turn pocket lining inside and edgestitch pocket mouth. Sew another row
of stitches at presser foot's width from the first row of stitches. Place pocket corner pieces under
pocket lining with round edges matching. Sew and overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth open
(6).
LEG SEAMS (7-8)
Place front and back sections of slacks on top of each other, right sides together. Sew and overlock
outside seams. Sew and overlock inside leg seams from cuff to cuff.
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LINING (optional)
Lining is optional, depending on fabric and style. For a full lining, waistband is attached to trousers and
lining together. For a front lining only, handle front garment and front lining pieces as if they were one.
For a full lining, cut lining pieces using pants front and back patterns. Overlock all edges. Fold darts
into pleats and baste at seam allowance. Stitch back seam. Stitch front seam from crotch to
beginning of zipper placket allowance. Fold seam allowance of placket opening inside and edgestitch.
Place front and back pieces of lining right sides together; stitch together along side seams. Stitch and
overlock leg inside seams from cuff to cuff. Press seam open. Fold hem border in twice and baste or
pin into position.
Turn lining inside out. Pin to pants at the waist, wrong sides together with side seams matching.
Attach waistband, handling pants and lining as one. Tack placket lining carefully to zipper tape, about
¼” from zipper teeth. Check hem length of lining, and stitch hem.
WAISTBAND
Fasten waistband according to general instructions above.
CUFFS
Overlock cuffs, fold cuff allowances inwards and press. Blindstitch with machine or by hand.
SEWING A JACKET
Cut upper collar 0.5 cm larger at outer edge than under collar. This will help collar to turn in to its
proper position.
Use the pattern pieces as a guide in cutting lining pieces. Note that in (8) in the illustration, you need
to add a pleat extension to the back lining. This extension is not given in the pattern.
FRONT/BACK SIDE SEAMS, BACK CENTER SEAM (1)
Sew and overlock front and back dividing seams and back center seam (1). Edgestitch if desired.
Sew pockets to front pieces according your styling preferences (see general instructions ).
COLLAR (2-3)
Sew upper and under collar together at edges, right sides together, (2). Trim seams and cut seam
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allowance at corners. Turn collar right side out and press. Edgestitch if desired. Sew collar to jacket's
neck collar with center back matching jacket back center seam and collar edges matching notch marks
at lapels (3).
SLEEVES (4-7)
Sew and overlock sleeve seam (4). This is the seam that will go between arm and body when the
jacket is worn. Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance (5). Sew sleeve upper
seam from top to where button placket begins, and from there around placket at distance of normal
seam allowance (6).
Baste placket fold line (7). Fold sleeve cuffs' seam allowance inside and sew with invisible stitches.
Sew buttons to sleeve button plackets through all thicknesses of material.
Turn sleeve right side out and jacket wrong side out. Place sleeve inside jacket (right side against right
side) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with jacket shoulder seam and seam between the two
sleeve pieces matches with jacket side seam. Pull on easestitching in sleeve cap to adjust cap ease.
Sew and overlock sleeve cap to jacket. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabrics
tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should be as much ease as
possible but no wrinkles at cap seams when done.
LINING (8-11)
Cut extra width to upper part of lining's back (8). Sew lining pieces together, right sides together (9).
Fold hem inside twice and sew (10). Zigzag back neck facing to the neck of back lining with lining's
wrong side against linings right side (11).
JOIN JACKET AND LINING (12)
Fasten jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right sides together (12). Overlock. Sew and fasten
sleeves to lining as you did to jacket.
To join jacket and lining, place them on top of each other, right sides together. Put collar between
jacket and lining. Sew continuously as follows: across front facing hem, along one front edge, around
neckline to other front edge and finally across other front facing hem. Cut seam allowance at starting
point of lapels and neck seam at intervals of ¾” inch (2 cm). Cut corners diagonally. Turn lining inside
jacket. Open seams and press well. Edgestitch if desired.
Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons to jacket. Do final pressing.
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