Brassmasters EasiChas Instructions Manual

Brassmasters www.brassmasters.co.uk

Scale

Models

EasiChas

Chassis and Detailing Kit for

Bachmann G2 Locomotive and

Tender

For EM and P4 Gauges only

Instructions

PO Box 1137 Sutton Coldfield B76 1FU

Copyright Brassmasters 2017

1 Introduction

1.1 The EasiChas frames for Bachmann G2 locomotive, based on the original concept devised by John Brighton, have been specifically designed to allow easy conversion to EM or P4 gauge, which results in a fully sprung locomotive and tender.

Furthermore, the basic conversion can be completed without the need to solder any of the main components together.

1.2 There are various levels of conversion with the builder choosing which, of any, additional detail required beyond the basic conversion.

1.3 Basic level of conversion makes use of: fold up mainframes keep plate and ashpan with sprung bearings fold up replacement tender frame with sprung bearings.

1.4 Further components are provided to add to the detail of the conversion. These are, working from the front: replacement buffer beam replacement buffer beam bracket locomotive guard irons drain cock operating linkage replacement coupling rods

– 2 jointed version replacement reach rod - both original and strengthened valve gear sander operating linkage replacement brake hangers and blocks brake pull rods for single and double braked versions cab floor replacement tender brake gear replacement tender guard irons replacement tender coal rails replacement tender frames, drag and buffer beams lamp irons for engine and tender replacement rear footsteps for tender cab locomotives

1.5 The replacement set of frames buffer beam etc. replaces the lower half of the Bachmann tender giving the proper distance between the frames rather than the over wide ones on the Bachmann model. An alternative set of frames is available for the Whale type frames with D shaped opening used on the earlier version (BC3) of the Bowen Cooke tender.

1.6 Unfortunately, it is not possible to re-use the Bachmann pick-ups on this EasiChas. However, a suggested method for making pick-ups has been given, which has worked very successfully on the test build, although there are many other methods which the builder may prefer to use.

1.7 Suitable wheels are available from Alan Gibson and Ultrascale. The standard replacement wheel packs with 3mm axles are suitable for the G2 EasiChas. However, if you already have wheels with 1/8” axles, the bearings in the kit can be exchanged for 1/8” bearings.

1.8 The earlier 3-piece coupling rods are also available from Brassmasters (ref C106 ).

Locomotives that can be built using the Bachmann G2 model and the Brassmasters’ EasiChas kit 1.9

The history of the LNWR 0-8-0 is long and complicated, so rather than try to include it all here, these notes deal only with the history as it affects the locomotives that can be built from the Bachmann model and Brassmasters’ EasiChas. For the full history,

‘Eight-Coupled Goods engines’ by Edward Talbot is essential reading.

There are two different basic versions of the Bachmann locomotive, plain cab side and cab side fitted with sandbox filler, and three different versions of the tender, plain tender, tender cab without rear steps, tender cab with rear steps. The only limitation of locomotives that can be modelled is that the cab side sand filler was not introduced until 1946 and then only on locomotives fitted with tender cabs and rear steps to replace the withdrawn 0-8-4 tanks at Edge Hill and Buxton, and later for other locations.

Apart from the limitation above, the Bachmann G2 can be used as a basis for any G1, G2 and G2A once fitted with Belpaire boiler and cut down cab, both appearing from about 1924, except those fitted with steam brake.

The later batches of G1 (built in 1914 onwards) and the G2 were all built with strengthened brake gear. From 1924 strengthened brakes were introduced on vacuum fitted locomotives. The strengthened brake gear consisted of a second brake cylinder in front of the firebox operating the linkage on the leading two wheelsets, with the original cylinder under the cab operating the linkage on the trailing two wheelsets. The modification commenced with the locos that had been built with vacuum brakes (G1

– LMS 9225 onwards, all G2s). As locomotives were converted from steam brake to vacuum brake most were fitted with two cylinders and the majority were converted in the next 10 years. However, some retained steam brakes until scrapped.

The G2s were built with a modified motion with a direct drive. This was mounted higher in the frames and resulted in a cranked reach rod in place of the straight reach rod for those locos fitted with indirect drive. From the early 1920s G1s began to be fitted with ‘strengthened motion’ as it was known.

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At the start of our period of interest, the G1s were fitted with three-piece rods and the G2s were fitted with one-piece jointed rods.

As time went on more locomotives were fitted with single-piece jointed rods.

G2A locomotive that appeared from 1935 were G1s that were fitted with a 175 lb/sq.in. boiler and nominally strengthened brakes and direct motion. Some locomotives were already fitted with one or both but converted locomotives often lacked one or the other.

Various changes were introduced during the life of the locos and the most noticeable were parallel buffers (1933 onwards), smokebox handles in place of wheel (early WW2 onwards), strengthened buffer beam (1942 onwards) and Stanier chimney (1944 onwards). Fitting was not necessarily fast and not all locos were fitted during their life.

As for the tender, once the locos were converted to vacuum brake the locos were only paired with one of the last two designs of

Bowen Cooke tender. The Bachmann model is of the last type of Bowen Cooke tender (BC4), but the previous type (BC3) had the same body, but with Whale type frames. The first tender cabs were built in WW1 but only one was fitted to a BC3 tender. The tender cabs in 1946 and later were fitted only to BC4 tenders and they also had steps at the rear of the tender.

So, with this number of variations, a picture of the locomotive you wish to model at the right period is necessary to get the detail right.

All these variations can be built using the appropriate Bachmann model, the EasiChas kit and several additional items:

Indirect or direct reach rod – EasiChas

Original or strengthened brakes

– EasiChas

Three piece rods

– available separately from Brassmasters (ref C105 – includes extra-long crankpins)

Single piece rods – EasiChas

LNWR buffers – sprung buffers available separately from Brassmasters (ref A217)

Parallel buffers – on Bachmann model or sprung buffers available separately from Brassmasters (ref A101)

Smokebox door wheel – on Bachmann model or in EasiChas

Smokebox door handles

– on Bachmann model or available separately from Brassmasters (ref A022)

Original or strengthened buffer beam - EasiChas

LNWR chimney

– whitemetal one available separately from Brassmasters (ref A251)

Stanier chimney - on Bachmann model or whitemetal one available separately from Brassmasters (ref A252)

BC4 tender frames – Bachmann model or brass in EasiChas

BC3 tender frames – available separately from Brassmasters (ref B244)

Rear tender steps to footplate – Bachmann model or in EasiChas

2 General Notes

2.1 There are four main etches, one for the Easichas for the locomotive and tender, one for the detailing kit for locomotive and tender, one for the coupling rods and one for the replacement tender frames. There are also two supplemental etches for replacement parts. Numbers shown in square brackets [ ] in the instructions refer to the etch (L or T for the Easichas etch, D for the detail etch, C for the coupling rods and F for the replacement tender frames) and part numbers, e.g., [L2] is part 2 on the

Easichas etch. The part number appears on the separate etch diagrams. Certain parts, e.g. screws, wire, springs, are not numbered.

2.2 Some of the parts are small and easily damaged, so do please take care. Parts should be removed from the sheets as and when needed by use of a small scalpel etc., and the tabs and etch cusp removed with a small fine-cut file.

2.3 All folds and bends are made with the half-etched line on the inside unless otherwise stated.

2.4 On some parts it is necessary to emboss rivet / bolt heads from the reverse sides by use of a punch. There are halfetched test rivet holes on the back of the etch edging strip. Use these to get used to forming uniform rivets.

2.5 You should look at instruction 5.1 regarding pre-preparing the wheels before commencing building.

2.7 User guide

We have created a user guide on our website – www.brassmasters.co.uk. In which we have taken advantage of the medium to provide more detail than we can include in traditional paper-based Instructions. In particular, it includes selected prototype photographs which are quick and easy to view. We hope you will find this new way of presenting our instructions helpful when building your model, and welcome your comments on it. It is an excellent way to familiarise yourself with the kit, particularly since the constructional photographs are reproduced in colour and to a much larger size than those included below.

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3

3.1

Before you start

Tools Required

A selection of cross head and normal miniature screwdrivers

Small pliers

Small plastic bags and labels to identify parts & screws when dismantling

Small files

Soldering iron (for electrical connections)

A steel rule

Back to Back wheel gauge

Plastic solvent, superglue and epoxy resin (24 hour & 5 minute)

The Mazak chassis block is very soft and the retaining screws are fine pitch. If any screws are incorrectly inserted (i.e. a 3.2 self-tapper into a machine screw hole) or they are over tightened the thread will be stripped and correct fastening will be impeded.

3.3 In all cases bag and label all small parts and source of screws as soon as removed (they are all different lengths) - trust us on this one!

4 Dismantling the locomotive and tender

4.1 Firstly check that the locomotive works and the motor runs because the warranty is about to be invalidated! With pliers, pull out the electrical plug under the tender and release the engine from the tender by manipulating the drawbar, plug and wires.

4.2 Unclip the brake pull rods from each brake block hanger so that the pull assembly hinges on the rear brake cylinder cross shaft. Carefully unclip this cross shaft by bending the shaft with pliers. Unless you are very careful, the end pips will break off .

4.3 Unscrew the front and rear screws, pull the chassis vertically to remove the chassis from the body. The rear screw releases the tender drawbar. Make sure you don’t lose this.

4.4 To remove the keeper plate (with brakes attached), remove the remaining screws. Remove the wheel sets from the chassis, unscrew the machine screws from the wheels and remove the coupling rods. Put the screws back into the wheels for safekeeping.

4.5 Remove the glued-on sandboxes (by twisting with pliers) and sand pipes. Store these for use later.

4.6 Remove the screw from the pickup PCB contact plate in the bottom of the chassis and pull out (the wires are quite long).

Unsolder or cut the wires to remove the PCB. Tuck the wires back into the hole for now. There are slots in the EasiChas and keeper plate to feed the wires through for the new pickups later in the instructions.

4.7 Before carrying out the next steps, cover both the tender link electrical socket and the gear train in the chassis with tissue to prevent swarf getting into them.

4.8 File off the pips in the chassis block behind where the sandboxes were fitted and also those on the underside of the chassis block at the rear. The footplate support bracket in the middle of each side also needs filing back to clear the

EasiChas frames.

4.9 The raised area on the Bachmann chassis around the third axle slot needs to be removed, by filling, for P4, and around both the second and third axle slots for EM.

4.10 Finally, the cast brake shaft brackets and representation of the central activating cylinder need to be removed from the Bachmann chassis block using a piercing saw and files (see photo of one side completed).

4.11 The chassis now looks like this (see photo):

4.12 De-grease the chassis sides.

4.13 We have found that only one drive gear is required on the third axle. Using two causes problems with quartering and is unnecessary with properly fitted coupling rods. Hold the one of the wheels with wheels with a gear wheel and with a twisting pulling motion pull off the wheels from the axle. Also, slide off the brass bushes. Place the axle in a vice such that the gear wheel is supported on the vice sides, but the axle is loose. Tap the axle with a hammer or similar and the gear wheel will slide off the axle. If you do not have a vice, use a pair of pliers on one side of the gear wheel, gently slide the plastic gear down and off the axle by holding the axle vertical and pressing down. It is very important not to damage this gear .

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4.14 Taking the tender, unscrew the two rear screws behind the buffers. The front is secured by two clips that extend vertically from the front tender bulkhead down through the tender floor/platform (chassis top). Some have suffered from stray glue so need pressure from below to free them. With the rear screws now removed lever up the rear of the tender and the front clips will release the body.

4.15 Spring the tender side frames apart to release the brake pull rod assembly. Again, spring the tender side frames apart to release the wheels. Remove the rear tension lock coupling (put a screwdriver below it and twist) to reveal the screw holding the coupling pocket. Remove this.

4.16 You will now have a box of bits and an invalid Bachmann guarantee!

4.17 possible.

Wash your hands as you will have grease on them from stripping the chassis and the etches should be kept as clean as

5 Basic locomotive conversion

5.1 If you are using Alan Gibson wheels you will need to drill the crankpin holes using a 0.65mm drill. The hole must be perpendicular to the wheel. If fitting 3-piece rods (c105), the extra-long crankpins provided need to be fitted to the wheels on the second and third (flangeless) axles. The following will prevent problems with loose crankpins. Countersink the rear of the crankpin screw holes using a 3mm drill and half screw the 12BA screws home, if the crankpin hole is not fully clear of the centre plastic boss then cut some of this away to aid countersinking. Using 24 hour epoxy, smear the remaining thread and screw the 12BA screws home.

Smear a little epoxy over the head for additional security but there should not be a big blob that will catch on wheel rotation. Leave in a warm place for 24 hours to set. This will retain the screws and stop them from rotating. See photo (before the epoxy wa s applied) of a larger diameter but similar wheel. Now is also a good time to ‘fill in’ behind the ‘H’-section spokes with black plasticard for those segments fitted with balance weights – different axles had different balance weight arrangements and there were variations, especially on the driven (flangeless wheel) axle. Study prototype photos. Do not copy the Bachmann wheels as this is incorrect for at least the driven axle. We cut a piece of plasticard 4mm wide and make ‘triangles’ out of this and carefully fit them from behind fixing with super glue. This is a time-consuming job, but if you do not do it now you will regret it because it is very noticeable on the running model!

5.1.1 Before stating on the main EasiChas frames it is necessary to make a couple of decisions.

5.2 The bottom of the Bachmann chassis block is a lot lower than the bottom of the frames of the G2, so it has been necessary to lower the bottom edge of the EasiChas frames between the wheels to partially hide the chassis block. The dimension used is not without precedent as we have used the frame depth from the 0-8-2 and 0-8-4 tanks that had deeper frames to support the additional weight of the tanks. However, if you want the correct height to the frames, there is a half-etched line on the back of the frames between the wheels marking the correct height, which will need filing back to.

5.2.1 The frames include the brackets for the second brake shaft between the second and third axles. These were fitted to G2 and G2A locos. If you are modelling a G1 or G2 with only one brake cylinder, these brackets need to be removed. Do this by cutting through the two legs of the bracket each side (see photo with the cut line shown dotted).

See photo of the finished job. As an

EasiChas frames can be cut away to footplate. For this option, cut back

5.2.2 The EasiChas includes replacement locomotive buffer beam brackets. To use them requires the cast brackets behind the buffer beam on the

Bachmann footplate to be removed. This is quite easy to do with a burr in a mini-drill but can also achieved with drills and files alternative, the leading part of the clear the original casting on the the frames to the half-etched lines on the inside of the frames.

5.3 Remove the locomotive mainframes [L1] and clean up the residual tabs with a small file. With a riveting tool or sharp implement push through the half-etched rivets at the rear and centre of each frame.

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5.4 Place the frames flat on the bench and with a thin metal rule fold to produce a ‘U’ section. Either again using a ruler or using a strong pair of pliers, fold up the small top sections along the edge of the main frames at 90 degrees, and then on the two top sections each side towards the front which have bend down sections, bend these down (see photo with these folded down on back frame). For added strength, solder these to the frame.

5.5 Fold over the rear brake shaft brackets between the frames, with the fold line on the outside . These should lie against the frame

– solder or glue (cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin) may be used to encourage this. See Photo

5.5.1 Ensure the mainframes fit over the original Bachmann chassis. The frames should sit parallel to the Bachmann frames and not be ‘splayed’ out at the top. If necessary, file the top sections back to ensure this. Remove the mainframes. There is a portion of dummy framing under the Bachmann Mazak footplate, remove the front brakes and sandpipes from this by snapping them off – put them in a safe place. It makes fitting the etched frames easier if the residual pips, etc are removed from the dummy framing by filing them off.

5.5.2 Check the fit of the brass bearings into the slots in the mainframes. If tight, using a smooth sharp file, lightly file away the cusp equally on both of the edges of the slots until the bearing slides up and down with no binding. It is very important that too much metal is not removed resulting in a sloppy fit

– no side play whatsoever is the aim, just a smooth sliding fit.

5.6 Identify all the items within and attached to the outside of the keep plate [L2], remove them and store them safely. Remove the keep plate [L2]. Fold up the four

U shaped pieces between the leading and second axles and the second and third axles. Ensure they slide between the mainframes [L1]. Fold down the eight axle keep plates along each side of the keep plate (G2 variant is shown with the second brake cylinder bracket).

5.7 Test fit the keeper plate and the chassis to the

Bachmann chassis

5.8 Unless you are using the replacement etched brake gear, fold up the ‘cups’ on the frame sides and keep plate front that will hold the Bachmann plastic brake hangers so that the y form a flat bottom gentle ‘L’-shape with a slight sloping upright (see picture in section 5.18 lower when formed).

5.9 Fold up the ashpan [

L3] by firstly bending into a ‘U’-shape along the inner bend lines and then bend each side through 180 degrees along the outer bend line (bend line to the outside). See photo. This fits between the frame and the keeper plate with the tongue facing forward in the correspondingly shaped cut out.

IMPORTANT - Carefully examine the bearings because they are not symmetrical. It can be seen that the flange on one side of the slot is wider than the other side. For EM gauge, the bearings need to be mounted in the frames with the thicker flange towards the centre of the frames. For P4 gauge, the bearings need to be mounted with the thinner flange towards the centre of the frames. Increased side-play on the drivers can be obtained by having the thin side of the bearings on the outside or rubbing off the circular beading round the axle hole. For EM gauge, it will be necessary to file off the raised rim on the inside face of the bearings to ensure the bearings move up and down freely.

5.10 Again, fit the mainframes to the

Bachmann chassis, place the bearings in the slots and check for easy movement.

See photo.

5.11 Temporarily fit the keep plate, using the original Bachmann screws and lower keeper plate, plus washers [L4]. Ensure the bearings slide to the bottom of each slot in the keep plate. Rather than use the washers, the screws could be shortened.

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5.12 Take the new 3mm axles and test fit them, firstly in the axleboxes (if tight ream them out to 3mm using a reamer or, if you do not have one, a small round file, a precision drill or a broach), then place each through the axleboxes and through the “slots” in the Bachmann chassis block. If the axles catch the side of the Bachmann chassis block file away the offending part of the block.

The Mazak is not the most stable material so it is surprising how much metal may need to be removed from some axle slots. This is much easier to do at this stage than when the wheels are mounted or at an even later stage.

5.13 Take the axles and file the sharp edges of the end to a rounded profile. Use a drill bit of around 5mm diameter to chamfer the rear of each wheel axle hole. These two actions help the axle to ‘centre’ in the wheel when they are pressed on.

5.14 Fit the Bachmann axle gear wheel onto the new axle by gentle pushing the gearwheel onto the axle, ensuring that the worm wheel is centred on the axle so the gear wheel engages properly, and the same amount of axle protruding each side of the chassis when it is fitted. Personally, we roll a file edge pressed very hard against the axle in the position the gear will sit before fixing, thereby ‘knurling’ the axle and providing extra grip for the gear, but this is probably not necessary!

5.15 Mount the bearings on all axles the correct way round (see section 5.7), then any spacing washers required (there will be about 0.8mm lateral movement of an axle with no washers in 18.83 gauge – so not many washers are required. For 18.83mm gauge we suggest one full washer is fitted each side of axles 1, 3 and 4, for EM one half washer on each side of the leading and trailing wheels, and finally press the wheels on the axles and quarter the wheels, remembering that the flangeless wheels should be fitted to the axle with the gearwheel. For these ex-LNWR locos they should be quartered with the left hand wheel leading the right hand wheel by 90 degrees. However, as you will never see both sides at the same time, and commercially available quartering jigs have the right hand wheel leading, it won’t be the end of the world if the right hand wheels lead.

5.16 Place the bearing springs over the tongues on the frames (a small spot of grease in the spring helps to retain the springs in place when fitting and removing the wheels), fit the wheelsets into the main frames and attach the keep plate and ashpan. See

Photo. Check that the motor turns the driven wheelset with no sign of any binding by applying power to the motor. Remove the springs and put them safe while working on the rods and checking for free running.

5.17 If fitting the buffer beam brackets to the frames, push through the rivets in the bracket bases

[L5 left hand side, L6 right hand side] and attach to the frames ensuring the bracket web [L6] fits through the slot in the bracket base and frames. If intending to use working sprung buffers on the front of the locomotive the bracket webs [L6] will need to be cut back to clear the buffer tail. Attach the buffer beam web [L7] to each side of the frames (see photo).

5.18 Attach the brake shaft bracket strengthening rings [L11] to the outside of the brake shaft brackets on the rear of the frames and, if the locomotive has two brake cylinders, to the brake shaft brackets on the keep plate. bases

5.19 Identify the footplate bracket

[L8] left hand side and [L9] for the right hand bottom side (the corner cut-out is at the and towards the rear). Position the appropriate bracket base over the slot frames and hold in position with the in the footplate

Repeat bracket web [L10] and secure in place. for the other side. See photo and 7.2.5

5.20 Push through the rivets in each guard the right hand side) and form to a slight ‘S’ shape. frames, with the curved face towards the rear, bracket. See photo.

If you wish to fit the replacement etched brake iron ([D1] for left hand side and [D2] for

Glue, or preferably solder, to the immediately behind the buffer beam blocks and supporting brackets, now is a good time to jump to section 7.2 and assemble the sequence from 7.2.1 to 7.2.5.

Coupling rods

5.21 Fit the Bachmann coupling rods with the eight bushes provided. This will require each hole to be opened up to with a rattail round file to accept the bushes, if you are careful these can be an interference fit. If not, the bushes have to be soldered or glued with epoxy centrally in place. If needed, open out the bushes using a reamer, broach or file to take the Gibson crankpin bushes - see photo.

A finer scale solution is to solder up a new set of coupling rods, but this of course takes longer (see section

7.1).

5.22 Fit the rods and temporarily secure with a piece of electrical wire sleeve (does not come unscrewed unlike a proper

14BA nut!). Check that all the wheels now turn without binding when power is applied to the motor and are quartered correctly.

Be careful as you tighten the retaining screws as it can distort the chassis just slightly which results in the axleboxes not sliding freely ( don’t forget to add the washers under the screw heads if using them). See photo.

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5.23 Fit the eight springs above the axleboxes to achieve a fully sprung chassis. Note that the driven axle should not drop too low to allow it to drop out of mesh with the gear above.

If this is happening, solder or glue a packer onto the top of the keeper plate to stop this as it will damage the gears if allowed to repeatedly occur.

Electrical pick-ups

5.24 Locomotive pick-ups. It is not possible to re-use the Bachmann pickups so you will need to fabricate your own. Many modellers have their own ideas on pickups, this is how we do it. Using a copperclad sleeper (cut to fit between the keeper plate springs) and 33 swg phosphor bronze wire (not supplied but available from Eil een’s Emporium), wind a ‘spring’ shape with extended end. We clamp a fine screw driver in the vice and holding the wire one end in the fingers and the other in a pair of round nose pliers, form the spring round the screw driver shaft. Note one pickup is wound clockwise, one anti-clockwise. There is only just over 3.2mm clearance between the keeper plate and the brake pull rods and cross shafts on this locomotive so it is wise to thin the paxalon sleeper to about 1.5mm – it just gives you that little bit more room for the pickup wires. Solder to the copperclad (gapping it first!) as the photo above. If you are using the existing Bachmann wires that you carefully tucked inside the chassis block it is advisable to enlarge the hole in the keeper plate and ashpan to allow these to come through easily

– do not try and force them through small holes or it will distort the chassis.

5.24.1 Electrics. If you are DCC, you will need to use the jump leads to the tender just as supplied by Bachmann and put the de-coder in the tender. If you are DC, the electrical jumper can be made redundant by bridging the solder blobs on the top of the plate where the jumper pushes in. Join each outer solder blob with the one adjacent to it. This will allow you to use the ori ginal wires to the Bachmann pick-ups to feed the motor through the resistors that are factory fitted.

5.25 Glue the paxolin pick-ups to the chassis keeper plate in the positions shown (some will need shaping around the screw fitting points in the photo below so they gently press on the wheel flanges). Most are virtually invisible behind the brake blocks.

Test the polarity and direction of travel with another locomotive and connect together with thin rigid wire and to the motor wire.

Test run.

5.25.1 If the locomotive is run when not sitting on the track there is a chance that the gear wheel will come out of mesh. If this happens, reduce the amount of downward play by soldering a piece of wire on top of the axlebox retainers on the keeper plate each side below the axle.

5.26 When happy, remove the temporary crank pins, shorten the bushes and fit the crankpin bushes (note, if you are going to fit new coupling rods as per section 7.1 do not shorten the bushes ). Shorten the crankpins flush with the front of the crankpin nuts.

Brakes

Note – if you are replacing the brake blocks and hangers with the etched version go to section 7.2

5.27 The Bachmann plastic brake hangers are single whereas the prototype had two hangers, one on each side of each brake block. However, using the plastic brake blocks does eliminate potential shorts. If you decide to fit these plastic brakes, then carefully cut the brake blocks and hangers off the Bachmann keeper plate and footplate casting by sawing next to the main part of the centre solid section. Once the saw cut is started hold the brake block (not the bigger keeper plate) as they will ping off across the room! See photo of a similar operation on a 4F. Keep safely for later use.

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5.28 Clean up the cut line on the plastic brake hangers to ensure there are no raised edges and if necessary shorten the hanger back ‘studs’ (that fit in the ‘cups’) so they line up with the wheel treads. Remember the chassis is sprung and the wheels will move upwards under the locomotive weight.

5.29 Attach the two brake hanger assemblies cut from the footplate to the leading brake hanger attachment point each side using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

5.30 Then attach the remaining brake hanger assemblies to the brake hanger attachment points using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. See photo 5.32.6 after fitting the cross shafts.

5.31 When it comes to the brake pull rods there is a choice of the amount of detail you may want to include. iii. include the brake cylinder levers

The instructions cover the full assembly as in iii., but any items can be omitted. i. Just the pull rods and brake shafts ii. add overlays to the pull rods and pull rod levers

5.32 If your locomotive has only the rear brake cylinder, there is only one continuous brake pull rod to assemble.

5.32.1 Take the brake pull rod etch [L12], and twist the rear section though 90 degrees (see photo 5.30.2).

5.32.2 If you are fitting the brake beam overlays and wish to replicate the slot in the front beam, file the front edge of the of the front beam on the brake pull rod [L12] as shown on the diagram in Appendix 2. Identify the eight brake beam overlays fitted to the top and bottom of the brake pull rods [L13 for the front beam, L14 for the second beam, L13 for the third beam and L15 for the rear beam]. Using a piece of 0.5mm wire through the holes, solder or glue the top and bottom overlays to the pull rod. Trim back the wire almost flush on top of the beam but leave a small section on the bottom to represent the nut. For the one continuous brake pull rod version fill the two blind holes on the rear overlays (it just has a bolt in the middle), for the two part pull rod version there are two bolts through the outer holes and the centre one needs filling. See photo of one part pull rod.

5.32.3 If you are fitting the brake cylinder lever, cut three pieces of 1.2mm dia tube 6, 2 and 3.5mm long and cut a piece of

1.0mm wire about 15mm long to fit through the brake shaft brackets. Clean up the ends of the wire and tube and make sure the tube will slide over the wire. Adjust by filing back the wire so it is flush with the outside of the brake shaft brackets on the rear of the frames.

5.32.4 Take the brake pull rod overlays [L16] and add to each side of the brake pull rod lever [L17].

5.32.5 Assemble the brake shaft by pushing the wire through the right hand brake shaft bracket then first placing the 6mm length of tube over the wire, followed by the brake pull rod lever [L17] with the lever at the bottom pointing to the left, followed by the

2mm length of tube, followed by the rear brake cylinder lever [L18] with the lever to the right and upwards followed by the 4mm long piece of tube and finally push the wire through the brake shaft bracket in the left hand frame (see drawing). DO NOT

SOLDER/GLUE the assembly together at this stage .

5.32.6 Spring the brake pull rods into place between the brake hangers.

5.32.7 Align the half-etched end of the brake pull rods and the brake pull rod lever, cut back as necessary and join together with solder or glue.

5.32.8 Rotate the rear brake cylinder lever [L18] until the piston rod is vertical.

Carefully apply solder or glue to the assembly to lock the levers in place on the tube and wire assembly ensuring that the brake shaft can still be sprung out of the brake shaft brackets. (See drawing) Note that the actual brake cylinder wa s some 7” off centre on the prototype which is why the vertical actuating rod is so positioned and also the reason for removal of the

Bachmann casting (which is also incorrectly shaped).

5.32.9 To remove the brake pull rods, first unclip the brake hanger assemblies from the end of the support wire and then unclip the brake shaft by springing the brake shaft brackets apart.

5.33 If your locomotive has two brake cylinders there are two brake pull rods to assemble then follow this section, otherwise jump to section 5.32.

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5.33.1 Take the rear brake rear brake pull rods etch

[L19] and twist the rear section through 90 degrees (see photo).

5.33.2 Identify the four brake beam overlays fitted to the top and bottom of the rear brake pull rods, [L13] for the front beam, and [L15] for the rear beam. Using a piece of

0.5mm wire through the holes, solder or glue the top and bottom overlays to the pull rod. Trim back the wire almost flush on top of the beam but leave a small section on the bottom to represent the nut. (see photo).

5.33.3 Follow instructions 5.32.3 – 5.32.8 for the rest of the assembly of the rear pull rods and brake shaft.

5.33.4 Take the front pull rods [L20] and make sure the slot at the end will allow a 0.4mm thick etch to pass along it. If you are fitting the brake beam overlays and wish to replicate the slot in the front beam, file the front edge of the of the front bea m on the brake pull rod [L20] as shown on the diagram Appendix 2

5.33.5 Identify the four brake beam overlays fitted to the top and bottom of the front brake pull rods, [L13] for the front beam, and [L14] for the rear beam. Using a piece of 0.5mm wire through the holes, solder or glue the top and bottom overlays to the pull rod. Trim back the wire almost flush on top of the beam but leave a small section on the bottom to represent the nut (see photo of one part pull rod 5.30.2).

5.33.6 Cut two pieces of 1.0mm diameter tube 5.2mm and 5.6mm long and cut a piece of 1.0mm wire about 15mm long to fit across between the brake shaft brackets. Clean up the ends of the wire and tube and make sure the tube will slide over the wire.

The wire should be flush with the outside of the brake shaft brackets on the keep plate.

5.33.7 Attach the brake shaft lever overlays [L21] to each side of the front brake shaft lever [L22]

5.33.8 Take the front brake cylinder lever [L23] and bend at the marks as shown in the diagram Appendix 3.

5.33.9 Assemble the brake shaft by pushing the wire through the right hand brake shaft bracket in the keeper plate, then first placing the 5.2mm length of tube over the wire, followed by the brake cylinder lever [L23] with the lever to the right and the spigot towards the top, followed by the brake shaft lever [L22] with the lever at the bottom pointing to the left, followed by the 5.6mm length of tube, and finally pushing the wire through the brake shaft bracket in the left hand side of the keep plate (see drawing ).

DO NOT SOLDER/GLUE THE ASSEMBLY TOGETHER AT THIS STAGE .

5.33.10 Spring the front brake pull rods into place between the brake hangers.

5.33.11 Rotate the brake shaft lever until it passes between the forked end of the front brake pull rods and join together with solder or glue.

5.33.12 Rotate the brake cylinder lever until it is horizontal. Carefully apply solder or glue to the assembly to lock the levers in place on the tube and wire assembly ensuring that the brake shaft can still be sprung out of the brake shaft brackets. (See drawing)

5.33.13 To remove the brake pull rods, first unclip the brake hanger assemblies from the end of the support wire and then unclip the brake shaft by springing the brake shaft brackets apart.

Rear Sandboxes

5.34 The Bachmann rear sandboxes are the correct shape if the locomotive has the sandbox fillers in the cab side sheets. If the locomotive has the original fillers inside the cab, new sandboxes have to be made.

5.34.1 For the original design of sandbox, take two pieces of the 2.5mm thick plastic strip just over 6mm long and glue together. Take the sandbox template [D3] and file the blocks of plastic to shape. Make a second sandbox in the same way.

5.34.2 Take a sandbox bottom flange [D4] and fit to the bottom of the sandbox with the centre

1.5mm in from the outside edge using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. Repeat for the other sandbox making sure they form an opposite pair.

5.34.3 Drill through the hole in bottom flange to take 0.7mm wire.

5.34.4 Mount the sandboxes on the EasiChas frames so that the top is level with the top of the frames and the front edge just covers the half-etched dot on the frames using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

5.34.5 Make new sandpipes from 0.7mm wire and bend to shape. Attach using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

5.35 For the sandboxes with the filler in the cab side sheet, the sandboxes are the correct shape but need to be made thicker before refitting.

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5.35.1 Cut a piece of 2.0mm thick plastic strip just over 7mm long and glue to the back of the Bachmann sandbox. File the plastic strip to the same shape as the sandbox.

5.35.2 Enlarge the hole in the bottom of the sandbox to take 0.5mm wire. Shape a piece of 0.5mm wire to a ‘J’ configuration terminating just short of the rear wheels, remembering that the shorter diagonal edge of the sandbox is towards the front of the locomotive. Repeat for the other sandbox. On the prototype there was a ‘trap’ just below the sandbox.

This can be represented by a joint in the wire (refer to photos).

5.35.3 Mount the sandboxes on the EasiChas frames so that the top is level with the top of the frames and the front edge just covers the halfetched dot on the frames.

5.35.4 Take the left hand brake pipe support bracket [S1] and bend over the half-etched part to 90 degrees. If necessary, curve the bracket so that it fits flat on the frames and over the sandpipe. Repeat for the right hand bracket [S2]. Attach the brackets to the frames and sandpipe by soldering or using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

Front sand pipes

5.36 of wheels.

Sand pipes were fitted to the front two sets

5.36.1 Make two notches in the top of the frame etch to take 0.7mm wire at 20mm and 44mm from the front edge of the frames both sides.

5.36.2 Take a piece of 0.7mm wire and bend the first 3.5mm over at a right angle with a fairly sharp bend, then shape the rest of the wire to shape around the brake hanger (see prototype photo).

5.36.3 frame.

Solder in position in the top edge of the

5.36.4 Take a front sandpipe bracket [S3], curve the end round a piece of 0.7mm wire, cut to length and

5.36.5 Repeat for the other three sandpipes. attach to the sandpipe and frames by solder or using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

5.37 Re-fit the locomotive body. The basic locomotive conversion is now complete.

6 Basic tender conversion

6.1 Remove all the parts (washers etc) from the tender frames [T1] and place them in your safe place. There are four spacing tabs, two at each end of the frames that need to be filed off if they are being fitted in the plastic Bachmann tender frames. Do not file them off if you are also building the replacement outside frames (actually it is not the end of the world if you do so don’t panic if you later decide to build the replacement outside frame). Fold up the tender frames [T1] to form a U section, taking special care with the narrow section on the bottom of the U towards the front of the tender. Fold the outer half of the slotted axle bearing sections through 180 degrees back on themselves inside the frame. Note: the etched line is on the outside of the bend. To ensure a tight bend, squeeze the two halves together using a pair of pliers. (see Photo)

6.2

6.3

Open up the slots in the tender frames [T1] so that the tender axles slide freely without any slop.

Bend at 90 degrees the eight small ears on each side of frames so they protrude outside of the frames. Bend the four brackets that will support the vacuum reservoir through 90 degrees towards the track (see photo).

6.4 Cut off the plastic pillar which held the tension lock coupling at the rear of the Bachmann tender frames.

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6.5 Remove the A frame towards the rear of the Bachmann tender floor. Also, the body retaining clips on the Bachman tender body at the front of the tender need to be reduced in width to clear the EasiChas frames using a craft knife or file.

6.6 Ensure that the new frames fit into the Bachmann tender. Secure in place using the Bachmann tension lock coupler screw in the rear hole. This is sufficient to hold the new frames in place. Remove the screw and tender frames.

6.7 Take the six axleboxes [T2] and, if necessary, open out the axle holes so that the axles rotate freely with a very slight amount of slop.

6.8 Fold up the six axleboxes [T2]. This is best done by placing the etch with the half-etched middle section perpendicular to the edge of a rule, or similar, to form a ‘T’ shape. Push down on each end of the etch so that it begins to wrap over each side of the rule. See photo.

6.9 Remove from the edge of the rule and push together between the fingers. Complete the bend by squeezing the two edges furthest from the bend with a pair of pliers (this is best done with a 2mm axle through the two holes which ensures two holes line up).

6.10 Assemble the rear tender wheelsets by firstly fitting spacing washer(s), then a bearing, then the second bearing, then more spacing washer(s) and finally the second wheel. Sufficient washers need to be fitted between the wheel and the bearing to ensure there is minimum sideplay.

For guidance for P4 two full width and one half-etched washers per side is recommended on the rear axles, one and a half on the leading and one none on the centre. For EM a single washer on the rear is sufficient. For less than 3ft curves, fewer will be required.

A tip to check the first wheel fitted is running true, is to balance them on a steel rule holding the axle with a file and move to left and right spinning the wheels, and wobble can be corrected by ‘twisting’ the wheel with finger pressure and then re-checking. See Photo.

6.11 Mount the wheelsets in the ‘U’ slots on the frames with the axleboxes on the outside of the frame.

6.12 Take the thin 8 thou steel spring and put a 2mm right angle bend in the end, cut to

77mm long and then slide the wire through the frame ears and holes in the axleboxes

(this is a bit of a fiddle!). Bend over the end of the wire to retain. See Photo.

6.13 Fit the frames to the Bachmann tender, locating and refit the tender top.

6.14 Ensure that the tender runs smoothly and that all the axleboxes are free to move up and down. Adjust the Bachmann tender coupling to suit your model curves.

6.15 Re-assemble the tender. The locomotive tender coupling has quite a bit of slop in it. If desired, solder a 2mm washer to the bottom of the coupling link over the rear hole. This then slides onto the tender pin without slop.

The basic tender conversion is now complete, but significant visual improvements can be made by replacing the tender brake gear, see section 8.

7 Additional locomotive components

The following additional items are provided in the kit and may be used if the builder requires.

7.1 Replacement coupling rods

7.1.1 There are two types of coupling rods suitable for this locomotive, the later type made up of three jointed sections and the earlier ones that are made up of three separate rods on each side (the centre rod overlaps the two outer ones). Generally, the 3part rods lasted up to WW2 to be replaced by jointed ones; however, some locomotives were built with the later type. By BR days, the 3-part rods were very scarce. Study your photos of the prototype! The later type is provided with the kit, but the earlier type is available separately from Brassmasters (ref C106 ).

7.1.2 These instructions refer to the jointed type included in the base kit. Each side is manufactured from six etches and hinged in front of the second crankpin and behind the third crankpin. There are also overlays for the bosses. There are spares for the bosses so don’t worry when there are some left over at the end.

7.1.3 Cut two of the centre pair of rods from fret [C1].

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7.1.4 Open the crankpin holes using a 1.5mm drill.

When complete drill a hole using the same size drill perpendicular in a scrap piece of wood. Leave the drill in the hole in the wood. Tin the mating surfaces of a pair of coupling rods and place over the drill. This holds one end of the rods accurately ready for soldering. It is critical to align the two halves exactly in order to make one rod, so take some time tweaking. See photo.

7.1.5 Attach a boss [C2] to the front and back of each boss, again using the drill to ensure alignment.

7.1.6 Place a little flux along the top surface of the rod and apply heat; the solder on the soldering iron will run down between the rods and join them. The secret is to apply only a little solder at a time. Solder will fill the “cusp” and give the impression of a solid rod. See photo. Repeat for the whole length of the rod.

7.1.7 Repeat for the second pair of centre rods [C1]. The rod below has the overlays added on the right end only and has been dressed with the file as below in section 7.1.11.

7.1.8 Next take a pair of outer rods [C3 and C4] and open out the crankpin holes with a 1.5mm drill. Again, assemble using the drill to align the rods.

7.1.9 Take two of the boss overlays [C5] and attach to the front and rear of the rods holding it in place with a cocktail stick and solder in place using the same technique as for joining the rods. Finally take two of the forked joint overlays [C6] and attach either side of the forked ends.

7.1.10 Repeat for the other three outer rods.

7.1.11 Clean up each rod with files.

Carefully blend the bosses into the front face of the rods. The prototype radius of the blend at the crankpin bosses is 6” so it is best to use a file of about 4mm diameter. We used an oval file. Referring to the middle rod in the attached photo, the file should be placed in middle step and then filed downwards to give the result in the top rod.

7.1.12 The rods for each side of the locomotive have two knuckle joints to manufacture. They are joined with a small rivet pushed through from the front after carefully opening the holes out to accept the rivet with a reamer. It is vitally important not to let these holes ‘drift’ or this will result in rods that do not match the wheelbase of the chassis. See photo.

7.1.13 Using a larger drill, lightly countersink the rear face of the forked end.

7.1.14 To stop solder flooding the joint apply a little oil to the surfaces not to be soldered - this will prevent the solder running into the joint. Keep the rear of the rod clean. Solder can then be quickly applied with a very hot iron to the back of the rod to fix the rivet in place. Clean off excess solder leaving enough to keep a strong joint. See photo above of completed rods.

7.1.15 A comparison of the Bachmann and Brassmasters rods is shown in the photo.

7.1.16 Open up the crankpin holes in order that the crankpin bushes will rotate freely in the rods. This can be done with a reamer, broach or a fine

Swiss file.

7.1.17 Fit the rods to the wheels and test run.

7.2 Replacement brakes and brake hangers

7.2.1 The plastic brakes are rather nicely moulded. However metal replacement brake hangers can be fitted if the Bachmann brake hangers are lost or a metal replacement is preferred. Remember plastic does not produce an electrical short and the wheels are sprung so move vertically!

7.2.2 Take the two brake hangers [L26 and L27] and open out the top and hole to clear 0.5mm wire, the centre hole to clear

0.9mm wire and the bottom hole to clear the ends of the brake pull rods [L12, L19 or L20]. Then take the brake block [L28] and open out the hole to clear 0.9mm wire.

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7.2.3 Drill two holes vertically in a piece of wood through the top and bottom holes in one of the brake hangers, using an a

0.5mm drill and an appropriate size drill for the bottom hole. Put two pieces of appropriately sized wires in the two holes then place one of the brake hangers over the wires with the half-etched brake block uppermost. With a piece of 0.9mm wire through the centre hole, mount a brake block [L28], followed by the opposite hand brake hanger with the half-etched brake block downwards. Make sure the brake block is the same way round as the half-etched version on the brake hangers, and then solder the three pieces together. Ensure that the top and bottom wires are not soldered to anything . Remove the assembly and cut and file the 0.9mm wire so that a small amount protrudes on one side to represent the bolt holding the brake block. Make another three brake blocks the same, and then another four with the 0.9mm protruding from the opposite side.

7.2.4 Solder four pieces of 0.5mm wire across the mainframes using the holes provided so that about 7mm protrudes from the frames on both sides, making sure there is a good solder joint inside both sides of the frames. DO NOT CUT OFF THE WIRE BETWEEN

THE FRAMES at this stage.

7.2.5 Mount a brake hanger bracket [L29] over each one of the wires and attach to the frames with the top edge horizontal.

7.2.6 Cut eight short pieces of 1.0mm diameter tube about

0.5mm long. This is best done using a craft knife such as a Stanley knife and rolling the tube back and fore with the blade until it cuts into the tube. Be careful as the piece may go flying off. Clean up the tube and also the ends of the 0.5mm wire through the frames and make sure the tube goes over the ends of the wire.

7.2.7 With a wheelset in place, put a piece of tube over the wires adjacent wire and position the brake block assembly in the appropriate place across the tread of the wheel. Slide the piece of tube up to the brake hanger and measure how far the outside edge of the tube is from the frames. Remove the wheelset and the brake hanger assembly and then solder a piece of tube to each wire the measured distance from the frame.

7.2.8 Cut back and file the outer ends of the wire so that they protrude through the brake hanger assembly by about 0.5mm.

7.2.9 It is now time to cut the wire between the frames but DO NOT USE

CUTTERS to make the first cut as it will distort the frames; either use a piercing saw or a triangular file. Once the wire is cut, then cutters can be used to trim back the wire inside the frames so that the frames can be remounted on the Bachmann chassis block.

7.2.10 Assemble the brake pull rods as per paragraphs 5.30.1 and 5.30.2 for single brake pull rods, or as per paragraphs 5.31.1,

51.2, 5.31.5 and 5.31.6 for the two sets of pull rods. Do not build the brake shafts at this time .

7.2.11 With the frames mounted on the chassis block, mount the wheels without the suspension springs and retain in place with the keep plate.

7.2.12 If the locomotive you are modelling has only one set of brake pull rods, mount two brake block assemblies on the rear most wire and two on the fore most wire. If the locomotive has two sets of brake pull rods, mount the brake block assemblies on the rear most and next wires. Position the brake pull rods through the holes in the brake hangers ([L12] for the single pull rod,

[L19] for the rear pull rod).

7.2.13 With the locomotive standing on its wheels, manoeuvre one of the brake block assemblies so that it is vertical and is far enough away from the tread for the wheel and brake block not to come into contact when the wheel moves up and down. Solder the brake block assembly to the pull rod.

Repeat for the other three brake block assemblies.

7.2.14 Remove the pull rod/brake block assembly by springing the top of each brake block assembly over the end of the wire. If you have used an active flux, remove the wheels and clean thoroughly to remove any flux.

7.2.15 If the locomotive has two sets of pull rods, repeat 7.2.12 – 7.2.14, but with the brake block assemblies mounted on the foremost and second wires and using the front brake pull rods [L20].

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7.2.16 If the locomotive has only one pull rod, mount the remaining brake block assemblies on the wires and solder them to the pull rods.

7.2.17 The brake shaft(s) can now be assembled as per rest of section 5.30 for the single pull rods and as per the rest of section

5.31 for the two brake pull rods.

7.2.18 Removal of the complete assembly is now carried out by springing the brake blocks assemblies off their wires and then springing the brackets to release the brake shafts.

7.3 Cylinder drain cock mechanism and operating lever

7.3.1 Remove the frames from the chassis and the wheels from the frames and then open out the holes in the two cylinder drain cock brackets on the front lower edge of the frames to clear 0.4mm wire.

7.3.2 Take the drain cock operation rod [D5], open out the hole to clear

0.4mm wire and bend the end of the rod through 180 degrees with the bend line on the outside.

7.3.3 Thread a piece of 0.4mm wire through the right hand side bracket in the frame, through the hole in the end of the drain cock operating rod, making sure it is correctly orientated, and then through the hole in the opposite frame.

7.3.4 Position the operating rod so that it is close to the right hand frame. With the vertical part of the operating rod parallel with the axlebox, hold in position and solder to the frames (We used a miniature wood clothes peg from the really useful set sold by Eileen’s Emporium for less than £1).

7.3.5 Position the other end of the rod slightly way from the bracket and solder to the wire and then solder the wire in the bracket. Solder the wire to the bracket at the other end as well.

7.3.6 Cut the wire between the rod on one side and the bracket on the other,

BUT DO NOT USE CUTTERS TO MAKE THE FIRST CUT because it will distort the frames; use either a piercing saw or a triangular file. Then you can use cutters to make the second cut.

7.3.7 Cut back the wire on the outside of the brackets and file flush with the front.

7.3.8 Reassemble the frames on the chassis block.

7.3.9 Take the cylinder drain cock operating mechanism etch [S4], and bend up each side (see photo). Be careful when handling this etch

– hold at the ends otherwise the rods distort – guess how we know!

7.3.10 Cut a piece of 0.6mm wire 14mm long and solder across the etch in the slot provided, with an equal amount protruding each side.

Position the assembled etch on the underside of the chassis block and cut back the wires until it fits in position and the wire clears the bracket on the frames at one end and the operating lever at the other.

7.3.11 Attach the etch to the chassis block with the extension piece towards the front using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.4 Replacement buffer beams

7.4.1 The locomotives were fitted with two types of buffer beam, the original [D7] and the strengthened [D8] fitted to some locomotives from mid-1942.

7.4.2 Take the locomotive body and remove the Bachmann buffers by gripping with a pair of pliers and wriggling then until they come loose.

7.4.3 Remove the detail from the cast Bachman buffer beam with a file (We actually use a burr in a mini-drill for removing the buffer bases). Now is the ideal time to solder replacement coupling hook to the etched replacement buffer beam

– we use a

Brassmasters one! (ref MC005 )

7.4.4 If refitting the Bachmann buffers, after pushing through the rivets, attach the buffer bases [D9] to the buffer beam by by solder or using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.4.5 Attach the buffer beam to the locomotive using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.4.6 Fit replacement buffers or replace the Bachmann buffers. Undoubtedly you will have damaged the Bachmann red paint so it is probably best to remove this from all the buffer body before refitting.

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7.5 Replacement reach rod

7.5.1 The prototype locomotives were fitted with two versions of Joy valve gear, the original indirect drive, and the later direct drive, each type having a different reach rod and weighbar lever. The indirect drive can be identified as the reach rod is straight, on direct drive it is cranked (the bend is behind the second splasher sand box). By the 1930s direct drive was far more common.

If you need to study photographs, 9204 on p117 of LNWR Eight coupled locomotives is indirect drive, 9061 p107 is direct. As well as providing for the different reach rods and weighbar levers, the kit also provides for the valve gear to be in the mid position or the full forward position.

7.5.2 Remove the boiler and cab from the footplate by undoing the screws underneath the footplate under smoke box and under the firebox backplate. The backplate can then be removed and the boiler/cab assembly can be lifted off. Remove the cab handrail for safe keeping.

7.5.3 Remove the reach rod by cutting behind the sandbox and cutting between the rod and the bracket on the third splasher.

Do not damage the bracket as it is used with the new reach rods.

7.5.4 The sandbox on the second splasher is too wide to allow the reach rod to pass down the back. Reduce the width of the sandbox from the back by 0.5mm (the prototype did this too).

Earlier indirect valve gear

7.5.5 In this version of the valve gear, the weighbar was mounted low down in the frames. Firstly chose whether the valve gear is to be in mid position or full forward.

7.5.6 Select the appropriate weighbar lever front and back (for mid gear [D10] lever front, [D11] lever back, for forward gear,

[D12] lever front, [D13] lever back).

7.5.7 Open out the two upper holes to clear 6mm wire then carefully bend the lever front and lever back as shown in the diagram (there is a half-etched dimple where the outer rod needs to be bent at the bottom). A piece of 6mm wire passed through the holes needs to be parallel to the footplate. When satisfied solder together.

7.5.8 Take the indirect each rod [D14], open out the hole to clear 6mm wire and push through the rivets for the joint from the back. Attach the joint plate [D15] to the back of the rod behind the rivets.

7.5.9 The weighbar lever is attached to the footplate in the position shown in the diagram, using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. However, if you are going to fit replacement sander levers (see section 7.6) it is best to attach the reach rod and weighbar after these.

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7.5.10 Trim back the reach rod at the cab end so that it clears the cab front when in position. Using the washers [D16] between the reach rod and the back of the weighbar lever, Make sure the rod will sit in the correct position out from the boiler, thinning the back of the bracket on the splasher if necessary.

7.5.11 Place the reach rod in position and insert a short length of 6mm wire through the joint with the weighbar lever. Secure the reach rod in position behind the bracket on the third splasher using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.5.12 Solder or glue the joint wire in position and trim to length.

7.5.13 If not fitting the replacement sander operating rods, re-assemble the boiler, cab and footplate.

Later direct valve gear

7.5.14 In this version of the valve gear the weighbar was mounted level with the top of the frames. First chose whether the valve gear is to be in mid position or full forward.

7.5.15 Take the bearing base [D17] and carefully bend at right angle along the back of the full etched piece (see photo of an direct weighbar). Attach a spacer [D18] to the bottom.

7.5.16 Select the appropriate weighbar lever front and back (for mid gear, [D19] lever front, [D20] lever back, for forward gear, [D21] lever front, [D22] lever back).

7.5.17 Open out the two upper holes to clear 6mm wire then carefully bend the lever front and lever back as shown in the diagram. A piece of 6mm wire passed through the holes needs to be parallel to the footplate. When satisfied, solder together.

7.5.18 Solder the weighbar levers to the back of the bearing base (see photo).

7.5.19 Take a piece of 2.0mm wire and file the end 4mm into a ‘D’- shape, such that the ‘D’ is slightly less than half the original diameter (0.8mm). Cut two lengths 1.5mm long.

7.5.20 Attach one length to the top of the bearing base (see photo).

7.5.21 Make the bearing for the opposite end of the weighbar by taking two spacers [D18] and soldering them together. Attach the second piece of the D shaped wire to the top (see photo).

7.5.22 Take the direct reach rod [D23] and open out the hole to clear 6mm wire and push through the rivets for the joint from the back. Attach the joint plate [D15] to the back of the rod behind the rivets.

7.5.23 Make two bends at right angles in the reach rod at the half-etched bend lines. Apply a generous fillet of solder to the inside of both bends to represent the shape of the rod at this point (see diagram).

7.5.24 The weighbar lever and opposite bearing are attached to the footplate in the positions shown in the diagram, using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.5.25 Trim back the reach rod at the cab end so that it clears the cab front when in position. Make sure the rod will sit in the correct position out from the boiler, thinning the back of the bracket on the splasher if necessary.

7.5.26 Place the reach rod in position and insert a short length of 6mm wire through the joint with the weighbar lever. Secure the reach rod in position behind the bracket on the third splasher using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. However, if you are going to fit replacement sander levers (see section 7.6), it is best to attach the reach rod and weighbar after these .

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7.5.27 Solder or glue the joint wire in position and trim to length.

7.5.28 If not fitting the replacement sander operating rods, re-assemble the boiler, cab and footplate.

7.6 Replacement sander operating rods

7.6.1 If not already done so, remove the boiler/cab assembly as in 7.5.2. This is what you are aiming for.

7.6.2 Carefully cut off the plastic sander operating mechanism below the lever and behind the bracket on the splasher (see photo). File the top of the mechanism flat

– you will need to leave about 1.35mm of the upstand present. If you leave too much, the mechanisms foul the boiler cladding.

Strangely, the right hand side of the Bachmann boiler seems closer to the sandboxes than the left – be aware of this when you are making these mechanisms and try a ‘dry run’ of fitting the boiler before securing these mechanisms . Also, it will be necessary to carve the back of the bracket on the splasher until it is slightly thinner.

7.6.3 Drill a 0.35mm hole vertically in the centre of each sander valve (see photo)

7.6.4 Drill a 0.35mm hole horizontally through the sander bracket on the splasher (see photo)

7.6.5 Take four sander levers [D30] and reduce the overall length to 2mm to help clear the boiler cladding.

Ensure the holes clear 0.33mm wire.

7.6.6 Drill a 0.33mm hole vertically in a piece of wood, insert a short length of 0.33 wire in the hole, place a sander lever over the wire and solder in place. Trim the wire on one side of the lever almost flush.

7.6.7 Repeat for the other three levers.

7.6.8 Take the two sander operating rods ([D31} left hand side and D32] right hand side) and make sure the holes in the bottom clear 0.33 wire.

7.6.9 Using the same piece of wood, insert a short length of 0.33 wire in the hole, place a sander operating rod over the wire and solder in place. Trim the wire on the inside of the rod almost flush.

7.6.10 Repeat for the other sander operating rod.

7.6.11 Place two of the sander levers in the left hand sandboxes and inset the left hand operating rod [D31] into the back of the bracket on the footplate.

7.6.12 Carefully adjust the position of the levers and rod so that the rods are horizontal and the two levers are in the correct position. Secure in place using cyanoacrylate glue or if you are brave a tiny dab of solder between the lever and the rod.

7.6.13 Repeat for the right hand sander rod and levers.

7.6.14 Replace the boiler and cab assembly on the footplate by reversing the sequence in 7.5.2

7.7 Cab footplate floor

7.7.1 Check that the cab footplate floor [D33] fits in position before attaching using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

7.8 Lamp irons

7.8.1 The lamp irons provided on the locomotive are plastic and are therefore too thick. Etched replacements are provided for the footplate ones and the one on the top front of the smokebox.

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7.8.2 Remove the plastic lamp irons on the Bachmann footplate by carving them off and fill any resultant holes with filler.

7.8.3 Take three footplate lamp irons [D34] and bend them at right angles where the upright joins the base. Glue in position on the footplate using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. The centre one should be offset to the right (looking at the locomotive front) by just over 0.5mm

(0.67mm) and the same distance back from the front edge of the footplate. The other two are in line with the buffers and again just over

0.5mm (0.67mm) from the footplate edge. Remember, the vertical part of the bracket is furthest away from the buffer beam with the section with two bolts to the front.

7.8.4 If you are going to fit a replacement whitemetal LNWR chimney, jump to section 7.10 as it is safer to do that now. The top lamp iron is quite respectable especially if carefully thinned with a file. Be careful not to damage the rivets on the smokebox top . To fit the replacement brass smoke box top lamp iron [D35] requires the handrails to be removed and this means that the three handrail knobs on the front of the smokebox have to be pulled out. This can be done quite easily be putting the points of a pair of tweezers either side of the handrail knob from the outside of the smokebox and levering very gently on the smokebox door (We put a piece of cardboard over the door to lever on so as not to mark the door). Remove the handrail by pulling it out of the knobs down the left hand side of the locomotive and out of the hole on the right hand side of the locomotive.

7.8.5 Carefully remove two knobs from the short end of the wire. Put one carefully away, but the other will need to be mounted in a pin chuck with the base outwards. This is best done by mounting the hand rail on a short piece of wire, putting the wire into the chuck between the jaws and then tightening the chuck on the knob.

7.8.6 Using the wire to orientate the knob, file flats on each side of the knob spigot at right angles to the wire until the slot on the lamp iron [D35] slides over the spigot. File a similar flat on what will be the top side of the spigot to ensure the lamp iron sits down on the knob far enough. Finally, reduce the thickness of the knob base by filing around the spigot.

7.8.7 Cut off the top plastic lamp iron and file the top of the smokebox smooth. Be careful not to damage the rivets on the smokebox.

Carefully carve off the representation of the lamp iron base on the smokebox front. Don’t forget that the smokebox door opens. Clean up any over enthusiastic application of glue by Bachmann round the other holes.

7.8.8 Remount the removed handrail knobs on the wire, the centre one first and in the correct orientation. Refit the wire handrail to the loco, being careful that the knobs do not fall off the end of the wire as you do so (We thought we had lost one of ours!). Push the knobs into place into their original holes.

7.8.9 Pull each of the outer two knobs out in turn, carefully apply a small spot of glue to the spigot and push back in. Apply a small spot of glue to the rear of the top lamp iron, pull the centre knob out slightly, position the lamp iron and push the knob into place. We used cyanoacrylate for this, but epoxy resin would also work.

Smokebox Door Handles

Some Bachmann models come with twin smokebox door darts (a wartime fitting and far from universal); also the plastic wheel is quite heavily moulded.

7.9 To replace either the outer handle or wheel, remove the plastic handle or wheel. Take the smokebox door wheel [D61] and open up the centre hole to accept 0.3mm wire. Solder a piece of 0.3mm wire through the hole. Drill a 0.33mm hole in the centre of the inner handle and glue in place using cyanoacrylate or epoxy resin.

LNWR chimney

7.10 All the Bachmann models come with Stanier chimneys, which were not fitted until the late

1930s and did not become common until the 1950s. A replacement cast whitemetal LNWR chimney is available from Brassmasters (ref A251 ).

7.11 Cut off the plastic chimney with cutters finishing off with files and fine emery paper. It is essential that a smooth smokebox top is formed.

7.12 Clean up the whitemetal chimney and shorten the base stub which fouls on the Bachmann weight inside the smokebox.

7.13 Drill out the top to a deeper level as this improves appearances and fit with glue.

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8 Additional tender components

8.1 Replacement brake gear

8.1.1 The Bachmann tender brake gear is moulded as part of the frames and is perhaps the weakest visual area of the model..

8.1.2 Cut the brake gear away and clean up the cuts, especially the inside of the ‘round ended’ cut-outs .

8.1.3 Bend up the front brake shaft bracket [D37] and solder in position across the top of the EasiChas frames with the centre tongue engaging in the frame cut-out. These brackets should be immediately behind the tender frames, the plastic frames are further apart than prototypical so if you are not fitting replacement Brassmasters frames but retaining the plastic Bachmann ones then adjust the bends (there is a second half-etched line above the ‘V’) so they are in this position.

8.1.4 Solder the brake shaft bracket overlays [D38] in position on the outside of the rear brake shaft brackets on the EasiChas frames with the bolt heads in a square configuration (like :: ) bolts parallel to the track.

8.1.5 Identify the handbrake lever [D39], the handbrake pull rods [D40] and the vacuum brake lever [D41] and open out the holes in the end to clear 0.6mm wire. Also ensure the holes in the two brake shaft brackets will also clear 0.6mm wire.

8.1.6 Cut two pieces of 0.6mm wire long enough to go across the two brake shaft brackets and be flush on the outside.

8.1.7 For the rear brake shaft cut three pieces of 1.2mm x 0.6mm inside diameter tube, 1.8mm, 6.8mm and 2.2mm long.

8.1.8 Place a piece of 0.6mm wire through the rear brake shaft bracket and position the handbrake lever [D39] over the wire and then push the wire through the opposite bracket. Hold the handbrake lever against the inside of the right hand frame (left hand when looking from below) and with the end against the base of the EasiChas, solder in position at the base end. DO NOT

SOLDER TO THE WIRE .

8.1.9 Pull the wire back so that it just goes through the bracket and handbrake lever and then assemble the rear brake shaft by first mounting the 1.8mm piece of tube on the wire, then one of the handbrake pull rods [D40] (the end with the slot is towards the front - see photo to get the correct orientation), then the 6.8mm piece of tube, then the second joining rod and then 2.2mm piece of tube. Finally push the wire through the opposite side bracket. Check that the tube does not cause the brackets to splay out sideways.

8.1.10 For the front brake shaft cut, four pieces of 1.2mm x 0.6mm inside diameter brass tube 7.5mm (8.0mm if fitting to the plastic frames of the Bachmann tender), 5.6mm, 0.8mm and 7.5mm long (8.0mm if fitting to the plastic frames of the Bachmann tender).

8.1.11 Now assemble the front brake shaft by putting the wire through the left hand side bracket (again the right when looking from underneath) and then mount the 7.5mm (8.0mm) piece of tube, then the free end of the first joining rod, then the 5.6mm piece of tube, then the vacuum brake lever [D41] with the piston rod towards the front, then 0.8mm piece of tube, then the free end of the second joining rod, then the 7.5mm (8.0mm) piece of tube. Finally push the wire through the opposite side bracket.

Check that the tube does not cause the brackets to splay out sideways. The assembly should then look like this (see photo, although the rear wire here has not been cut flush).

8.1.12 Push the wire on the rear brake shaft slightly out through the bracket and apply a small drop of oil, then push it slightly out of the opposite side and apply a further drop of oil. Now with the brake shaft wire flush at both ends, carefully apply solder or glue to the rear shaft (the oil will prevent the wire and tube being soldered to the bracket).

8.1.13 Repeat for the front brake shaft, ensuring the brake cylinder spindle is vertical.

8.1.14 Remove the handbrake linkage assembly by springing the brackets apart.

8.1.15 The prototype tender brakes and their actuation linkages are a horribly complicated assembly with four pull rods situated both sides of each wheel. Study the drawing Appendix 1 at the end of these instructions and print it off. This kit follows this faithfully and will test your modelling skills. Open out the holes in all the brake pull rods [D42] and [D43] to clear 0.5mm wire. Note that the one on the bottom of the etch has no centre hole (left hand end)

– keep this separate as it needs to be the inside pull rod

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8.1.16 Prepare the brake hangers and blocks ([D44] left hand front, [D45] right hand front, [D46] left hand, [D47] right hand) by pushing through the half-etched rivet in the middle of the brake block from the rear. Then open out the holes in the top and bottom of the brackets to clear 0.5mm wire and the hole near the bottom to clear 0.6mm wire.

8.1.17 Open out the hole in the link that protrudes at the rear of the front brake hanger and blocks ([D44] and [D45] to clear

0.5mm wire.

8.1.18 Remove the appropriate assembly jig for the etch frame (21mm for

P4 and 20mm for EM are on the EasiChas etch frame, the 18mm for 00 is on the detailing etch frame). Open out the holes to clear 0.5mm wire and bend the jig into a

‘U’- shape.

8.1.19 Push two 25mm lengths of 0.5mm wire through the two holes.

8.1.20 Place the upper hole of a left brake hanger [D46] over the lower

0.5mm wire on one side of the jig and rest it against the upper wire. Repeat with a right brake hanger [D47] on the opposite side. Inset a piece of 0.6mm wire through the lower of the two exposed holes in the brake hanger and solder each end in place. We use blue tack to hold the wire in place and mini clothes pegs to hold the brake hangers in place during soldering (removed for the picture as they obscured the jig).

8.1.21 Push a 30-40mm piece of 0.5mm wire through the upper exposed hole in one brake hanger, then through the single hole of two brake pull rods ([D40] and [D41]) with the detail side face to face. Ensure that the rods are correctly orientated. Finally push the wire through the opposite brake hanger. Make sure that an equal amount is showing either side of the brake hangers and solder into place to the brake hanger only (not the pull rod at this stage).

8.1.22 Remove the lower wire from the jig and remove the assembly.

8.1.23 Place the second pair of brake hangers in the jig and again solder a piece of 0.6mm wires between the lower of the exposed holes.

8.1.24 Repeat 8.1.21, this time putting the wire through the appropriate holes in the centre of the pull rods, again ensuring correct orientation (see photo below and diagram Appendix 1).

8.1.25 Finally mount the two leading brake hangers [D44] and

[D45] in the jig and solder a piece of 0.6mm wire between the lower of the exposed hole.

8.1.26 Repeat 8.1.21, this time putting the wire through the appropriate holes in the front of the rods, again ensuring correct orientation (see photo/diagram).

8.1.27 With the wheels and handbrake linkage assembly removed, place three pieces of 0.5mm wire 25mm long through the holes in the EasiChas frame and solder into place in both frames, making sure an equal length protrudes from both side of the frames.

8.1.28 Take six pieces of 1.0mm x 0.5mm diameter tube about 1.0mm long and solder one piece on each end of the wire with the outside edge the same distance apart as the jig size used in paragraph 8.1.8.

8.1.29 Replace the wheels and then assemble the brake gear by mounting the brake hanger assemblies over the ends of the support wires.

8.1.30 Mount the remaining brake pull rods ([D42] and [D43]), with the detail side outermost, over the ends of the 0.5mm wire, and position the correct distance out from the face of the wheels to ensure that the wheels do not touch the rods when the wheels are at their fullest amount of side play, but also still narrower than the tender side frames.

8.1.31 Pull the brake gear off the wheels to ensure that the brake blocks do not touch the wheels and solder the brake pull rod to the 0.5mm wire. Check the position of all brake hangers and solder all the remaining brake hangers to the pull rods.

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8.1.32 Position the pull rods that are loose on the 0.5mm wires between the brake hangers so they do not touch the wheels when the wheels are at their fullest amount of side play and solder in place on the

0.5mm wire.

Note the vertical brake cylinder lever is on the incorrect side in this photo

– see correct picture in

8.1.11.

8.1.33 Remove the brake gear by springing the top of the hangers off the support wires. If you have used an active flux, remove the wheels and clean thoroughly to remove any flux.

8.1.34 The brake gear now needs to be finished off.

Mount short lengths of 0.5mm wire through the remaining holes in the brake pull rods and solder in position. Please note that there is no hole in the link at the bottom of the front brake hangers but a short piece of wire still needs soldering through the outer hole.

8.1.35 Trim the outer ends of the 0.6mm cross wire so it is flush with the face of the brake hanger and trim all the ends of the short wires to represent bolt heads.

8.1.36 The 0.5mm cross wire now needs to be cut between the inner brake hangers frames but DO NOT USE CUTTERS TO

MAKE THE FIRST CUT because it will distort the brake gear. Make the first cut with a saw or triangular file, then cutters can be used to trim the wire back the brake hanger.

8.1.37 The complete brake gear, including the handbrake linkage assembly can now be mounted on the frames.

8.2 Vacuum reservoir

8.2.1 If you have not already done so, bend down the four tabs in the base of the EasiChas frames to 90 degrees.

8.2.2 Cut the 8.0mm tube to 10.2mm long.

8.2.3 Form the tender straps [D48] into a circular shape around a suitable round object (pin vice?) and solder at

0.7mm and 7.7mm from one end of the tube (the leading end).

8.2.4 Glue or solder the tube to the supports, with the leading end towards the front, so that the front edge of the tube is 12.0mm in front of the centre axle. The completed chassis mounted in replacement BC3 frames is shown here.

8.3 Coal compartment doors

8.3.1 Take the coal space doors [D51] and, with a square or triangular file, cut a groove through the centre of the door on the half-etched side, using the gap in the beading top and bottom as a guide, so as to form a bend line. Bend the door with groove innermost to a gentle ‘V’ angle that measures 11mm from outer edge to outer edge.

8.3.2 Solder the door centre [D52] in the groove formed with the file in the centre of the door with the angle end at the top, with the edge against the doors (i.e. not flat against the doors).

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8.3.3 Remove the two plastic handles (Water scoop and Brake) and their support box to save from damage by holding the box behind the wheel with a pair of pliers and pulling. If you are lucky the spigot will pull out the tender front; if not, it will break off. Store them carefully.

8.3.4 Carefully make two saw cuts down the front of the coal space about 10mm apart and equidistant about the door centreline and about 9mm down from the top edge. Join the bottom edge of the two saw cuts by sawing across.

8.3.5 Make a series of holes with a drill in the coal space floor just behind the front wall between the saw cuts. Open up between the saw cuts so that piece falls out.

8.3.6 With files, carefully widen the opening to 11mm wide and down to the bottom edge of the moulded line.

8.3.7 The door can now be glued in place using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

8.4 Replacement fire iron rails

8.4.1 The part of the fire iron rails along the top of the tender fender is missing. Also, the fire iron rails that are there on the

Bachmann tender are a plastic moulding and over thick and over tall. Provided in the kit are a straight etch for the uprights along the tender edge and a replacement etch for the main curved rails. The straight etch can be used with the plastic original curved rails or with the replacement curved rails.

8.4.2 T he uprights on the prototype were ‘T’-shaped steel and need fabricating. Take the straight fire iron rails [D49] and solder

0.3mm wire into the grooves in the front of the uprights on the same side as the full etch base. Make sure the wire is no longer than the grooves . You will see just beyond the end of the groove a small etched dot. Don’t confuse this with the end of the groove as the dot indicates a bend point, so the wire must stop short of the dot

8.4.3 Turn the etch over and fill the groove in the back of the upright with solder.

8.4.4 With the fully etched strip towards you, bend the uprights on the straight fire iron rails where they meet the fully etched part away from you until they are at right angles, then bend them back again at the bottom of the wire to form an ‘S’- bend (see photo). Check that they sit over the top edge of the tender fender.

8.4.5 If you are fitting these uprights with plastic curved rails a corner needs to be filed off the lower edge of the end of the curved part of the plastic rails so that it fits over the etched foot. This is not easy and requires the plastic part to be forced over the edge of the tender and held with pliers whilst filing. Fortunately, the plastic is so pliable it will take this abuse. (Unfortunately, there is no picture of this as we didn’t have enough hands to work the camera as well!)

8.4.6 Attach the uprights etch to the top inside of the tender using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

8.4.7 Take the curved fire iron rails [D50} and solder 0.3mm wire into the grooves on the back of the uprights. You will see just beyond the end of the groove a small etched dot. Don’t confuse this with the end of the groove as the dot indicates a bend point, so the wire must stop short of the dot.

8.4.8 With the wire side towards you, bend the curved rails along the row of dots at the bottom of the uprights towards you until the resulting angle is less than 90 degrees (see photo). Ensure that the rails sit vertically. Adjust the bend if they do not.

8.4.9 Again, with the wire side towards you, bend the end of the curved rails around a 4mm drill through 90 degrees towards you (see photo).

8.4.10 Carefully cut the base of the uprights of the plastic curved rails and discard the rails, carve any remnants flat and then carve off the

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rivets on the tender top where the base of the etched curved rails will be. Attach the curved rails to the tender top using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. Note that the curved rail joins the edge of the last upright on the straight rails on the side nearest the next upright (see photo).

8.5 Replacement lamp irons

8.5.1 The lamp irons provided on the tender are plastic and over thick, and there is no lamp iron provided on the top rear of the tender.

Etched replacements are provided for the footplate ones and also for the top one.

8.5.2 Remove the plastic lamp irons on the

Bachmann tender by carving them off.

8.5.3 Take three footplate lamp irons [D34] and bend them at right angles where the upright joins the base. Glue in position on the footplate using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. The centre one should be offset to the right (looking at the tender rear) by just over 2mm (2.17mm) and flush with the rear edge of the footplate. The other two are in line with the buffers and just under 1mm (0.92mm) from the footplate edge.

Remember, the vertical part of the lamp iron is nearest to the edge of the footplate.

8.5.4 Take a fender lamp iron [D55] and the fender spacer [D56] and solder the spacer to the back of the lamp iron. Attach the lamp iron to the centre of the tender fender below the lip (see photo).

8.6 Handbrake and water scoop handwheels

8.6.1 The original drawings of the Bowen Cooke tenders show larger handwheels fitted. The only known photo of the front of a tender in service is shown in the book ‘The North Western at Work’ and shows large wheels with turned knobs.

8.6.2 If you have not already removed them, we found it easier to replace the handwheel if the complete wheel and box assembly are removed. Hold the box behind the wheel with a pair of pliers and pull. If you are lucky, the spigot will pull out the tender front, if not it will break off.

8.6.3 Remove the original Bachmann plastic handwheel by cutting immediately behind it.

8.6.4 Drill down through the centre of the plastic boss on the box with a 0.6mm drill.

8.6.5 Drill out the hole in the back of the rim of the handwheel [D57] to clear 0.4mm wire.

8.6.6 Use a file to remove the cusp around the outside of the wheel and then round off the outer edge, then solder a 1.75mm length of 0.4mm wire to form the handle.

8.6.7 Mount a length of 0.6mm wire in the box using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin and cut back so about 0.6mm is left protruding.

8.6.8 Attach the handwheel to the spindle using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

8.6.9 Re-attach the assembly to the tender front using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

Guard irons 8.7

8.7.1 Take holding the base over to a right bending it away rivet holes ) (see an ‘S’-bend the left hand guard iron ([D53] and, part in a hand vice or pliers, bend angle ( making sure you are from the side with the half-etched photo). Then bend the lower part into leaving 1.5mm at the tip of the guard the second bend, we used round iron straight (for nose pliers).

8.7.2 Repeat for the right hand guard iron [D54].

8.7.3 Push through the rivets from the rear and fix in position on the inside of the Bachmann tender frames using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

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8.8 Replacement tender cab steps

8.8.1 The steps fitted to the Bachman tenders with tender cabs are plastic and are therefore too thick. The replacement steps can be fitted to both the original Bachmann tender frames or to the replacement frames

8.8.2 Remove the Bachmann originals if fitted.

8.8.3 Take the left rear footstep [D58] and heavily scribe a line across the etch as shown in the photo. Then, with the corner of a square file, file a groove across the etch as shown in the photo.

8.8.4 Similarly, take an upper footstep [D59], scribe a line then file a groove 6mm in from the edge (see photo). Fold the footstep along the groove line.

8.8.5 Fold up the sides if the footstep along the half-etched line and then fold up the back of the footstep along the groove.

8.8.6 Solder the upper footstep between the footstep supports.

8.8.7 Bend the leg of the footsteps support with the two etched rivets into a slight ‘S’-shape, using the halfetched dots as bend points, making sure that both supports are now the same length (see photo which also shows top bent over for fitting to Bachmann frames).

Fitting to Bachmann plastic frames

8.8.8 If fitting to the Bachmann frames, bend over the tops of the supports either side level with the rearward facing tab and towards the front of the locomotive.

8.8.9 Again, if fitting to the Bachmann frames, reduce the length of the rear support by 1.0mm, then bend it back at about 24 degrees and bend the last 0.6mm over so that it lies flat against the frames.

8.8.10 Attach the steps to the plastic frames using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin

8.8.11 Repeat for the footsteps on the other side using the right rear footstep [D60] and another upper footstep [D59].

Fitting to replacement frames

8.8.12 Bend the rear support back at about 24 degrees and bend the last 0.6mm over so that it lies flat against the frames.

8.8.13 Attach the steps to the frames, either Bachmann or replacement, using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

8.8.14 Repeat for the footsteps on the other side using the right rear footstep [D60] and another upper footstep [D59].

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9 Replacement tender frames

The Bachmann tender frames are spaced a lot further apart than on the prototype due to an over allowance for the thickness of

00 wheels and to the thicker frames. This results in the axleboxes being too shallow. The replacement frames, top plate, drag and buffer beams fit in place of the Bachmann originals, and in turn, the EasiChas frames fit to the underside of the replacement frames. The replacement frames still allow the tender to negotiate 3 foot curves in both EM and P4.

There are two types of tender underframes. The type that comes with the Bachmann locomotive is the last Bowen Cooke type, referred to in Talbot’s book as BC4. An earlier version, BC3, had the same body but the frames were to a Whale design and these tenders were common on the G1, G2 and G2A locos. A separate etch for these frames to produce a BC3 tender is available from Brassmasters (ref B244 ).

9.1 Push through all the rivets in the tender frames [F1]. There are a lot of them.

9.2 Fold over the five tabs on the base of the tender frames [F1] back on themselves (see photo). Ensure they are completely flat. ( note the bend lines are on the outside )

9.3 Fold up the sides of the tender frames to 90 degrees, then fold up the two mounting guides to 90 degrees. Strengthen these last two with solder. (note photo shows BC3 frames but construction is identical for BC4 frames)

9.4 Make sure that the Bachmann adjustable tender coupling will fit through the gap of the leading mounting guide

– the gap may need a gentle dressing with a file.

9.5 Reduce the head diameter of the Bachmann body retaining screws by holding them in a pin chuck and rotating them against a file

9.6 Ensure the four tabs on the top of the frames [F1] engage in the slots in the tender footplate [F2]. Solder the two together through the various slots between the frames not along the side of the frame (otherwise this may affect the fitting of the rivet strip later). Make sure the top face of the footplate is completely flat.

9.7 There are two types of buffer beam, the normal flat type and the riveted type which was fitted to a few tenders. Identify which of the two types is required ([F3] for the flat type, [F4] for the riveted type.

9.8 Take the buffer beam back [F5] and push through the rivets. Solder the buffer beam front [F3 or F4] and the buffer beam back [F5] together.

9.9 If re-using the Bachmann plastic buffers, push through the rivets on the back of the buffer bases [F6] and solder them in place on the buffer beam.

9.10

CHOSEN BUFFERS . If using replacement brass buffers, solder to the bufferbeam and file back so the rear of the bufferbeam is flush.

AT THIS POINT IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU OPEN OUT THE HOLES IN THE BUFFER BEAM TO SUIT YOUR

9.11 Solder the buffer beam assembly to the tender base and frames ensuring that it is the correct way up (the buffer holes should be towards the bottom of the buffer beam when fitted). You will probably also have to open the hole in the brass buffers out with a 0.5mm drill as solder will have flooded the hole

9.12 There are two different types of draw beam front in the EasiChas kit, a cut-away one for use with the Bachmann coupling [F7] and the full beam [F8] if a different coupling is being used. Solder the appropriate draw beam front to the draw beam back [F9]. If using the full beam, solder on the drawbar pocket casting

[F10].

9.13 Solder the draw beam assembly to the tender base and frames.

9.14 Solder the left hand rivet strip [F11] vertically to the rear end of the left hand side frames butted up against the buffer beam back and the footplate. Repeat for the right hand rivet strip [F12] on the right hand side.

9.15 Take the two footplate valances ([F13] left hand and [F14] right hand). If you are not building a locomotive with a tender cab, file off flush with the valance edge the two triangular pieces.

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9.16 Take the valance jig [F15] and bend to a U shape along the bend lines. Make sure that the valances fit in the slots.

9.17 Position the left hand side valance [F13] in position in the half-etched recess on the left hand edge of the footplate with the triangular piece (or the place where it was) towards the back and away from the footplate, and hold upright using the jig. Photo shows jig in place to hold the valence at 90 degrees during soldering.

9.18 Tack solder the valance in four or five positions along the footplate, moving the jig as you do so. Do not try to solder the valance in one go as it will distort with the heat. Carefully fill in the gaps between the tacks allowing the valance to cool between each one. Repeat for the right hand valance [F14].

9.19 Open out the hole each side in the rear lower edge of the frames to clear

0.7mm wire. Insert a piece of 0.7mm wire through the holes, ensure the frames are parallel and solder the wire to both frames. Trim back the wire flush with the frames.

9.20 Tack solder the left hand frame strengthening strip [F16] in place along the bottom of the left hand frame in four or five places ensuring the curved corner is at the front and to the outside. Do not try to solder the strip in one go as it will distort with the heat. Carefully solder the strip between the tacks allowing the strip to cool between each one. Repeat for the right hand strengthening strip [F17].

9.21 Take a footstep [F18] and solder in place to the step back [F19] with the half-etched edge towards the bottom, in the slot in the footstep back, take time to position it accurately. Then take the left hand step outside edge [F20] and, starting from the top, curve it to fit round the outside edge of the step back [F19]. Solder in place making sure the back edge is flush with the back of the step back.

9.22 Turn over the very end of the outer edge to form the end of the footstep tread.

9.23 Take the left hand step inside edge [F21] and curve it round the inside edge of the step back. This is not easy and will require some patience.

9.24 Take a piece of softwood and with a small screwdriver make an indent in the wood large enough to accommodate the tab on the back of the left hand step inside edge [F21]. With the tab in this hole place the footstep assembly on the wood and solder the inside edge in position making sure that the back edge is flush with the back of the step back.

9.25 When your patience and sense of humour have returned, repeat for the right hand step using the foot step [F18], the step back [F19] the footstep [F21], the right hand outside edge [F22], and the right hand inside edge [F23]. Do not attach to the tender frames yet.

9.26 tender frames. File away the spigot of the buffer housing and the buffer rod from the side until it fits in the hole in the buffer beam and misses the side frame. This will mean removing about 50% of the spigot (see photo).

If you are re-using the Bachman buffers, gently pull the buffers from the rear of the Bachmann

9.27 Attach the buffers to the buffer beams on the replacement frames using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 26 September 2017

Note - a better method is to fit brass sprung buffers - available separately from Brassmasters (ref A217 ).

9.28 Cut the axlebox and spring hanger assemblies from the Bachmann frames using a piercing saw. Reduce the thickness of the back of each assembly, and then attach to the replacement frames.

Note - a better method is to fit new whitemetal axlebox and springs - available separately from Brassmasters (ref B245 )

(see photo which is actually of a

BC3 framed version)

9.29 Attach the two footstep assemblies to each side of the frames using solder, cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin.

9.30 Prepare the guard irons as in 8.7 and solder them to the inside of the replacement tender frames.

9.31 If using with the EasiChas tender frames, solder an 8 BA nut in the recess on the top centre of the tender footplate

[F2]. Solder the Bachmann locomotive coupling nut over the hole towards the front of the footplate.

9.32 Remove the Bachmann fall plate from the tender body by unbending the two tabs. Insert the two tabs in the thin slots in the new footplate and bend over the tabs.

9.33 Fit the locomotive coupling in place using the original Bachmann screw and then attach the EasiChas frames to the footplate frame assembly using an 8BA screw. Finally fit the tender body in place by insetting the two tabs into the slots at the front of footplate and securing in place using the two original Bachmann screws through the two rear holes.

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 27 September 2017

Etched Components

Locomotive and Tender EasiChas

L8

L9

L10

L11

L12

L13

L1

L2

L3

L4

L5

L6

L7

L14

L15

L16

L17 main frames keep plate ash pan washer buffer beam bracket base left buffer beam bracket base right buffer beam bracket web footplate bracket base left footplate bracket base right footplate bracket web (2) brake shaft ring brake pull rod (single) brake beam overlay (1 hole) (4) brake beam overlay (2 holes) (2) brake beam overlay (3 holes) (2) brake pull rod overlay (2) brake pull rod lever

L25

L26

L27

L28

L29

L18

L19

L20

L21

L22

L23

L24

T1

T2

T3

T4 rear brake cylinder lever rear brake pull rods front brake pull rods front brake shaft lever overlay (2) front brake shaft lever front brake cylinder lever brake hanger 1 (8) brake hanger 2 (8) brake block (8) brake hanger bracket

3mm axle washers 0.4mm thick

3mm axle washers 0.2mm thick tender frames tender axleboxes (6)

2mm axle washers 0.4mm thick

2mm axle washers 0.2mm thick

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 28 September 2017

Detailing Etch

D1

D2

D3

D4

D5

D6

D7 loco guard iron left loco guard iron right sandbox template sandbox bottom flange drain cocks drain cock operating rod buffer beam original

D34

D35

D36

D37

D38

D39

D40

D8

D9 buffer beam strengthened buffer bases (2)

D41

D42

D10 indirect valve gear lever front (mid gear) D43

D11 indirect valve gear lever back (mid gear) D44

D12 indirect valve gear lever front (fore gear) D45

D13 indirect valve gear lever back (fore gear) D46

D14 indirect reach rod

D15 reach rod joint plate

D16 washer

D17 bearing base

D18 spacer

D19 direct valve gear lever front (mid gear)

D20 direct valve gear lever back (mid gear)

D21 direct valve gear lever front (fore gear)

D22 direct valve gear lever back (fore gear)

D23 direct reach rod

D24-D29 not used

D30 sandbox levers (4)

D31 sander operating rod left

D32 sander operating rod right

D33 cab floor

D47

D48

D49

D50

D51

D52

D53

D54

D55

D56

D57

D58

D59

D60

D61 footplate lamp iron (6) smokebox lamp iron

00 brake frame (not used) brake shaft bracket brake shaft bracket overlay (2) handbrake lever handbrake pull rod (2) vacuum brake lever brake pull rod 1 (2) brake pull rod 2 (2) brake hanger and block left front brake hanger and block right front brake hanger and block left (2) brake hanger and block right (2) vacuum reservoir straps (2) fire iron rail straight fire iron rail curved coal space doors coal space doors centre tender guard iron left tender guard iron right tender top lamp iron lamp iron spacer tender handwheels rear footstep left upper footstep

Note

– the brake hangers on the main etch did not all etch correctly and so additional parts have been provided on a supplementary etch.

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 29 September 2017

Tender Frame Etch

F8

F9

F10

F11

F12

F13

F1

F2

F3

F4

F5

F6

F7

Coupling rod etch

tender frames tender footplate early buffer beam riveted buffer beam buffer beam back buffer base (2) draw beam (cut away) draw beam (full) draw beam back drawbar pocket casting rivet strip left hand rivet strip right hand footplate valance left hand

C1

C2

C3

C4

C5 centre rods (4) centre rod boss left hand (4) centre rod boss right hand (4) outer rod half (4) outer rod half (4)

F21

F22

F23

F24

F25

F14

F15

F16

F17

F18

F19

F20 footplate valance right hand valance jig frame strengthening strip left hand frame strengthening strip right hand left hand step outside edge step back (2) left hand step inner edge footstep (2) right hand step outer edge right hand step inner edge guard iron left guard iron right

C6

C7

C8

C9 outer boss overlay (4) inner boss overlay left (2) inner boss overlay right (2) forked end overlay (8)

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 30 September 2017

Supplementary etch

S1 rear sandpipe bracket left

S2

Other Components rear sandpipe bracket right brass axleboxes (8) axlebox springs (8)

0.33mm brass wire

0.4mm brass wire

0.5mm brass wire

0.6mm brass wire

0.7mm brass wire

0.9mm brass wire

1.0mm brass wire

2.0mm brass wire

0.008” spring wire

Appendix 1

S3

S4 front sandpipe brackets (4) cylinder drain cock mechanism

1.0mm x 0.5mm brass tube

1.2mm x 0.6mm brass tube

1.2mm x 1.0mm brass tube

5/16” brass tube

2.0mm x 6.3mm plastic strip

2.5mm x 6.3mm plastic strip rivets for replacement rods (4) bushes for Bachmann rods (8)

10 BA cheese head screw

10 BA nuts

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 31 September 2017

Appendix 3

Appendix 2

Brassmasters G2 EasiChas v1.0 32 September 2017