PatternMaker Software Men/Young Men’s Collection Designer: Leena Lahteenmaki INTRODUCTION Welcome to the PatternMaker Men/Young Men’s Collection! This collection contains four basic garments to use as suit pieces. The patterns can also be modified to make more casual garments. We suggest you make a fitting muslin at least when sewing the first jacket or vest. If you don't, you can provide for alterations after the garment is complete by adding extra seam allowance. WHAT ARE MACROS? Each PatternMaker macro is a small computer program which is run by PatternMaker. You will be asked to make some style choices and type in your measurements. The program then does some calculations and draws a garment pattern. These are complete patterns, ready to cut out and sew. All of these macros have been tested in commercial use for a wide range of sizes and measurements. Once you make a pattern from a macro, you can change it to create your own individual garment. Most of these garments require an intermediate or advanced level of sewing skill. If you do not already know how to assemble a garment, sew buttonholes, etc., you will need to refer to a general sewing text as well as these instructions. PatternMaker has many patternmaking features, and the macros are a good way to start learning about them. Use this booklet to get started making patterns. Practice the tutorials to see how some of the PatternMaker commands are used, and read the User’s Manual to learn the details. OVERVIEW Here’s what you need to do to make your new set of garments with PatternMaker: • Take your measurements. Everything else depends on having good measurements. The measurement form included in this package provides detailed instructions on how to take the measurements. Read the instructions carefully, and be very careful when taking the PatternMaker Software and Leena Lahteenmaki Men/Young Men’s Collection Rev. 4/00 Men/Young Men’s Collection measurements. • • • • • • If you want to make clothes for more than one person, photocopy the measurement form (both sides) for each subject. Don’t write on the original before you copy it! You will use these measurements for all the macros, so keep the form in a safe place for future reference. Don’t forget to fill in the name and date – you may not remember whose measurements these are a few months from now. Make a test muslin. This is especially important the first time you use the macros to make sure your measurements are good. Make a test garment out of inexpensive fabric before you cut into your actual garment fabric. If the test garment doesn’t fit right, adjust your measurements and try again. Run the macro for the garment you want. PatternMaker will ask you for some measurements, which you will type in. Then it will draw the pattern. If you already have a pattern on the screen, the new items will be added to it. You can now use all of PatternMaker’s various features to modify your pattern, if you wish. Or you can just print it out and sew it. Add seam allowances. The macros in this collection do not automatically draw seam allowances for the patterns, so if you want a printed seam allowance, use the OFFSET command to add it. Suggested amounts are ¼ inch (.5 cm) for collars, (½ inch (1 cm) for most seams and 1½ inch (3 cm) for trouser hems. Arrange for printing. You may need to use the MOVE and ROTATE commands to arrange the pieces for the most efficient printing. Print your pattern. If you have a small desktop printer, you will need to tape the pages together. The pages will be marked to make it easy to assemble them. Cut out and sew your new garment. This booklet gives you most of the sewing instructions you need, but always rely on your common sense. We hope you enjoy your new clothes! RUNNING A MACRO When you first start the PatternMaker program, you will see a blank drawing area. To run the macros, select the MACRO command from the File menu, or click on the icon which has the word MAC. (Users of PatternMaker Basic should select OPEN from the File menu, or click the OPEN icon.) A dialog box will ask you to select a file. Each macro is a separate file in your PatternMaker directory. Descriptions of each macro are given later in this book. The file names in this collection are: • MJACKET • TBPANTS • MPANTS • TBSHIRT • MSHIRT • MVEST Click on the name of the file, and then click “OK”. It may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the macro. A dialog box will now ask you for the measurements. The illustration at the right shows the first of two measurements dialog boxes. Fill these in from your measurement chart. Remember to use decimal numbers: 1/8 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4 7/8 -------------------------------------------------- .125 .25 .375 .5 .625 .75 .875 2 Men/Young Men’s Collection Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right spaces. When you are ready, click “OK” or press the <Enter> key. You may have to wait a minute for the macro to run, especially if you don’t have a fast computer. You will know the macro is done when the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow and the word Command: appears on the prompt line. IF YOU CANNOT SEE THE PATTERN PIECES, OR IF YOU ONLY SEE PART OF THEM, PRESS THE <END> KEY TO VIEW ALL THE PIECES IN THE DRAWING. Look at your macro The macro will draw your new pattern in the drawing area. If you already have a drawing, the new items will be added to the existing ones. To zoom out and see the entire pattern, press the <END> key. To zoom in, use <F2> or <F3>. Use the arrow keys to move up, down, left, and right. (See the PAN and ZOOM commands in the Help file.) ARRANGE YOUR PATTERN Now, you can use the PatternMaker editing features to make changes to your pattern. PatternMaker has tools to make almost any alteration. Some simple changes you may want to make before you print are: • Erasing an object (ERASE command) • Add seam allowances (OFFSET command) • Moving an object (MOVE command) • Rotating an object 90 or 180 degrees (ROTATE command) • Label your pieces (TEXT command) Refer to the User’s Manual or the Help file for detailed instructions on these commands. IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE If you make a mistake in one of the above operations, you can use the UNDO command to undo your last change. The Undo icon looks like a letter “U.” If you make a really big mistake, you can use the New command (on the File menu) to start all over. Luckily, this isn’t hard to do. READ THE MANUAL Here are some other commands you’ll want to learn before long. Look them up in the User’s Manual or the on-line Help system. • MOVE VERTEX to adjust shapes • SET LINE to draw dotted lines • COLOR to draw in different colors • GROUP to keep groups of things together • DIM and SET/MEASURE DISTANCE to check measurements • POLY to draw your own objects • COPY and MIRROR to copy objects • LAYER to hide things from view Note: These commands are available only in the Home Version and higher. PRINT YOUR PATTERN Before you print out your pattern, you should use the MOVE command to arrange the pieces in the most efficient way you can, to save paper. The pieces aren’t arranged for you, because the best 3 Men/Young Men’s Collection arrangement will depend on your measurements and the size of the printer you have. If possible, arrange the pieces to fit within a rectangle no wider than your printer’s page size. Make sure you leave enough room for seam allowances, if you didn’t already add them. We assume you already have your printer set up and working. PatternMaker works with any Windowsdriven printing or plotting device. If you have a printer with tractor-feed paper, print in Landscape mode to make the pages connect in the correct order. See “Printing a pattern” in the Help file for details about the various Print commands, and “Assembling a printed pattern” for instructions on putting the pages together. TESTING MEASUREMENTS WITH TEST GARMENT Things to check for: • back width is correct • sleeve length is correct • width is correct on chest, waist, and hip If your body is asymmetrical: You will have to check separate measurements for each side of your body. This can be tested with the sample garment, too. Does it look right? If your new, modified pattern looks better, it probably is. If it looks wrong, it probably is. Keep experimenting until you have a pattern that corrects all the fitting problems in your first muslin. When you have determined what changes will make your bodice fit correctly, write down the new measurements and make another fitting muslin. If this fits properly, save the corrected numbers on your measurement chart. Important – Use the corrected measurements for all macro patterns. Remember that the purpose of making the fitting muslin is to find the correct values for the measurements on the chart. Once you have got these right, use the same values for all the other macros. Don’t use the old numbers. Ease for each pattern is added by the program. ABOUT EASE We do not include an ease chart for the men's garments because it is usually not necessary to make many ease adjustments for men's garments. Remember that the macros automatically add fitting and styling ease. You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease. It won’t work. You don’t know all the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as the program calculates some measurements for you. MEN/YOUNG MEN’S GARMENT MACRO DESCRIPTIONS: VEST (MVEST.MAC) Lined vest, to be worn either with a suit or by itself. 4 Men/Young Men’s Collection MENS’ SHIRT (MSHIRT.MAC) Long-sleeved men's dress shirt. This is a full-cut (American-style) shirt and not a fitted (Europeanstyle) shirt. This model can also be used for a casual shirt. Convert this pattern to a T-shirt or a sweater by leaving the button placket and back pleat out, and joining back yoke and back piece into a single piece. Sew short sleeves if desired. This pattern can also be used as a basis for a sport coat by adding width to all vertical seams and drawing a different collar with Collars macro. In that case sleeves are sewn without cuffs. PANTS (MPANTS.MAC) Men's casual or dress slacks. To convert these to sew sport slacks with elastic waist, cut front and back pieces vertically in two and add width to the pieces (5-10 cm each). Add ribbing to leg cuffs if desired. JACKET (MJACKET.MAC) Suit jacket. This is for advanced sewers only, so the instructions will assume that you already understand jacket construction. Note: for a sport coat, modify shirt pattern as discussed above. Note that the facing pieces (dashed lines) are drawn on top of the pieces they belong with. You should move them apart before printing and cutting them. YOUNG MEN’S SHIRT (TBSHIRT.MAC) Similar to men’s shirt, but does not have back yoke piece. Also has slightly fuller sleeves. YOUNG MEN’S PANTS (TBPANTS.MAC) Same as men’s pants. COLLARS (COLLARS.MAC) This macro is provided free of charge in the PatternMaker demo. Included are a two-piece shirt collar, shirt mock-collar, and two different kinds of convertible collars. Use these collars as variations on the standard collars. Convertible collars have pointed and rounded versions. Before you run this macro, run the macro for the garment you will use it with and measure the neckline length with the Set/Measure Distance function. The collar measurement you enter in the dialog box is the circumference of the garment neck, not the actual body measurement. These collars can also be used for jackets in which case you might want to make them about 1 cm wider on outer edge. Two-piece shirt collar’s lower part can also be used separately for Chinese collar. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS • When you buy your fabric, ask how much it will shrink when washed. In all cases, when the fabric is washable and when you are not sure that the fabric won't shrink, it is safe to wash and iron it before cutting. Don't forget to preshrink lining as well. • Cut pattern pieces on folded fabric, right side of the fabric folded inwards. Make the necessary marks on the fabric with chalk or pencil. If the fabric is plaid, striped or checkered, align the hem 5 Men/Young Men’s Collection lines at the same point on the repeating pattern. For sleeves, the repeating pattern should match where the bottom of the armscye and bottom of sleeve cap meet. Vertical centerline of sleeve should be placed at a vertical stripe or at center of a plaid square. Jacket, blouse and dress front center should be placed the same way. • Transfer notch marks from your pattern to the fabric by cutting snips (depth 1/4 inch/5 mm) into seam allowances. When joining garment pieces, place corresponding notch marks in the two pieces together. • Cut and iron interfacings onto under collars, facings, waist bands, slit facings, blouse and shirt button extensions and sleeve cuffs. If you use interfacing at jacket's hem seam allowance, you get a neat hem. • If you sew a patch pocket and don't line it, fasten interfacing to it also. Woven interfacing gives the best results. The macros draw all facings on top of the garment pieces, with dashed lines. If you want to print them apart from the pieces, use the Move command to move them before printing. • Cut lining along with garment patterns without space for facings (but remember to add seam allowances) and hem seam allowances. Do not cut lining for collars. Lining fabric usually is not as elastic as garment fabric, so cut it with about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) wider seam allowances than for the garment pieces. • Use the longest possible machine stitches for basting. It is quick and the stitches can easily be removed. • The macros make the patterns without seam allowances. If you want to add seam allowances, use PatternMaker's Draw Offset and Draw Seam Allowances commands. The suggested seam widths are 3/8 inch (1 cm) for most seams, and 1 - 1/2 inch (4 cm) for hems and sleeve ends without cuffs. When you are sewing your first garment with PatternMaker patterns, add extra seam allowance so that you can make corrections to the garment if it should be necessary. • You will get the best result if you always press seams and darts as you sew. First iron seams or darts flat without turning them to either direction. Then press them towards center, side seam towards front. Two-piece sleeve seams are both pressed towards shoulder mark. Use a steam iron. If you press seams from right side of the fabric, use pressing cloth if necessary. • Edgestitching gives a well-finished look to garment, but only if it is straight and even. Long stitches of 1/4 inch (4-5 mm) look best in edgestitching. Sew edgestitching only after you have ironed the seam. HOW TO FASTEN WAISTBAND to pants 1. Iron interfacing to wrong side of waistband. Overlock edges. Fold waistband lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Sew one horizontal edge of waistband to garment, right sides together, (1). Space for button and buttonhole extension extends beyond center front mark at each end of the band. Garment’s waist should always be slightly larger than waistband. Easestitch garment waist to fit waistband. 6 Men/Young Men’s Collection 2. Fold waistband lengthwise, right side inside, and sew across one end (buttonhole end) (2). Cut corners and turn waistband right side out. Press seam allowance upward (raw edges of seam will be inside waistband when finished). 3. Fold seam allowance of waistband in about 2 inches (5 cm) from each end but leave rest of waistband seam allowance flat (flat makes it easier to catch when sewing through from the right side, but leaves the raw edge on the wrong side of the skirt instead of tucked into the waistband). Stitch on right side of garment along first stitch line (4) called “stitch in the ditch.” Sew button hole and fasten button. HOW TO SEW POCKETS Flap, welt or buttonhole pocket: The techniques for these three kinds of pockets are similar. The difference lies in treatment of the pocket opening. 1. Garment preparation: First, decide on the width of the pocket opening, also called the pocket line or cutting line. Mark the pocket line with a pencil on the wrong side of the garment. Transfer markings to the right side with basting thread (2). 2. Cut a piece of interfacing measuring 1¼ in. (3 cm) wide and 1½ in. (4 cm) longer than pocket line. Baste or press interfacing to wrong side of garment. 3. Stitch a rectangle or “box” around pocket line as in picture (3). The edge pieces for flap, welt, or buttonhole opening are attached to the garment along this stitched “box.” The rectangular “box” is about ¾ inch (2 cm) high and the length of the pocket opening. 4. Cut flap, welt, or buttonhole pieces along the straight grain of fabric, as described below. Always include seam allowances. Press interfacing to wrong side of pieces. Fold pieces as described, and place on right side of garment. With machine basting, fasten edge pieces to stitched “box” as described below. a) Flap Cut two pieces with a finished width equal to the cutting line plus seam allowances and a finished length sufficient to cover the stitched “box.” Interface. Place pocket flaps right sides together and stitch along sides. Leave raw edge to be fastened to garment. Turn piece right side out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch if desired (1). b) Buttonhole The buttonhole pocket mouth has two narrow folded strips of fabric meeting in the center of the stitched “box.” Cut a strip of fabric, width 1½ “ (4 cm) and long enough for all the pockets. For the length of the strip, multiply the length of each pocket plus seam allowances, by twice the number of pockets. Iron interfacing to strips, fold them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press lightly. Overlock raw edges of strips. Machine baste strips ¼” (6 mm) from the folded edge to mark 7 Men/Young Men’s Collection stitching line. Place two strips on the rectangular “box,” with the folded edges meeting over the pocket cutting line, and machine basting over the stitch lines of the “box.” Zigzag the folded edges together to hold them in place until the pocket is completed, then remove the zigzag. Stitch rectangle again from wrong side. c) Welt Cut welt piece with a length two seam allowances longer than the stitched rectangle. Welt piece height is twice the stitched box height, plus two seam allowances. Normal height of finished welt piece is ½” (1-2 cm). Interface welt, overlock raw edges and fold lengthwise wrong sides together. Place welt on the stitched rectangle with the welt seam line along lower stitching line of “box.” Folded edge faces down, and raw edge is turned upward toward the “box” center. From wrong side, stitch around “box” rectangle again. 5. Attach pocket piece: Cut a rectangle with width 2½ -4½ inches (4-6 cm) greater than pocket line and length twice the desired pocket depth, about 16 inches (40 cm) total (4). If you don’t have enough garment fabric, the lower half can be of pocket lining fabric. 6. Pin pocket fabric to right side of garment over the pocket opening and the attached edging. Place the horizontal centerline of pocket fabric onto the upper edge of the stitched rectangle. Working from the wrong side of garment (5), stitch again over the stitched “box.” 7. On wrong side of garment, slash rectangle along pocket center line and diagonally to the rectangle corners. Cut the garment and pocket material carefully along cutting line, being careful not to cut stitching (6). DO NOT CUT POCKET FLAP, BUTTONHOLE, OR WELT pieces. 8. Pull pocket through the opening; turn pocket to inside and press well. Edgestitch over the rectangle. 9. Turn pocket downwards, sew and overlock pocket edges (8) together. Press. 10. Turn pocket edging to its correct position on the right side of garment, press well (7). Topstitch the edging treatment as appropriate to make sure it lies flat. PATCH POCKET WITH LINING Note: An unlined patch pocket requires interfacing on the wrong side of pocket. 1. Cut pocket lining using the pocket pattern minus facing (1). Iron interfacing to pocket facing (2). With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to upper edge of pocket, leaving an unsewn opening about 2” (5 cm) for turning (3). Turn lining (4). Stitch sides and lower edges. 2. Trim seam. For square pocket, cut seam diagonally across lower corners. For rounded pocket, notch curves as in picture. Open seams well and press. 3. Turn pocket right side out and slipstitch opening. Topstitch upper edge about 1” (2.5 cm) from top. Pin pocket to garment. Stitch along sides and edges of pocket, simultaneously edgestitching it. HOW TO SEW ZIPPER to pants 1. Sew seam to the point where zipper begins and mark zipper’s full length with basting. Press the seam open. Remove basting stitches. 2. Mark front (or back) centerline with basting (1). Fold one seam allowance of zipper placket at about ¼” (0.5 cm) distance from front (or back) centerline (2). Sew one zipper edge under the extended seam allowance (3). 8 Men/Young Men’s Collection 3. Close zipper placket temporarily with pins on right side of garment (4). On wrong side pin other zipper edge flat on seam allowance (5). Make certain that the zipper is straight and lies flat at an even distance from edges of seam allowance. Remove pins from right side. Sew from wrong side through all thicknesses, across bottom and up the pinned edge of zipper near zipper teeth. If you want to, you can sew a second row of stitches one presser foot’s distance from the first one (7). If you are making jeans or other pants that need to be very strong, strengthen bottom of zipper placket with tight zigzag (bartack) on right side. For an unnoticeable zipper placket: Sew zipper directly onto garment seam, placing zipper upside down on a basted seam on wrong side of garment. The distance between the seam and the zipper stitching is the width of the presser foot. Basting is removed after sewing. This kind of a zipper is good for a dress back seam and is also widely used in skirts. HOW TO SEW COLLARS for shirts 1. Iron interfacing to two under collar pieces (both collar band and collar) (1). Fold neckline seam allowance of collar band inwards and baste (2). 2. Sew collar together at outer edges, leaving lower edge raw. Trim seam allowance at corners. 3. Turn collar right side out, open seams well and press. Edgestitch. 4. Sew upper collar band pieces together at upper seam, sandwiching collar between them. Leave neckline edge raw. Trim seam allowance at corners and at curves. Turn collar right side out, open seams well and press. 5. Stitch collar assembly to shirt/blouse neck along raw edge, right side of collar against wrong side of shirt/blouse. Turn seam allowance up. Pin basted edge of collar on shirt’s/blouse’s neck to right side. Baste. Blindstitch or stitch. Edgestitch lower part of collar. 6. Sew convertible collars accordingly (5). Notice that convertible collars are placed at front center of shirt/blouse and not over extension for buttons as for shirt collar. HOW TO ATTACH COLLARS 1. For the collar, cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 piece of interfacing. The under collar piece is on the inside, hidden by the upper piece, when the garment is completed. 9 Men/Young Men’s Collection 2. Overlock button placket and front center edges. Sew front center seam from hem to where button placket begins (1). Fold button placket inwards along fold line and sew along bottom (2) and top (3) ends from fold line to front center. Cut seam allowances diagonally at point where seam ends, so that button placket can be turned right side out. 3. Turn button placket right side out (4). Place button plackets' front center marks on top of each other and sew a box at bottom end of placket. Stitch through all layers of fabric. 4. Iron interfacing to under collar. Turn bottom seam allowance of under collar inside and baste (5). 5. Place collar pieces with right sides together and sew along edges (6). Trim seam allowances and cut corners. Turn right side out. 6. Sew raw edge of upper collar to shell's neck from front center to front center, right sides together. Press seam allowance upwards and pin basted edge of under collar on top of previous seam. Sew. If you have difficulties in sewing a neat collar, sew basted edge of under collar by hand. HOW TO SEW AND ATTACH SLEEVE CUFFS 1. Fold in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (1). 2. Fold cuffs horizontally in two, right sides inside, and sew along ends (2). Note that seam allowance of one edge has been folded in, but the other is unfolded, so the edges don't meet. Cut seam allowance diagonally at corners and turn cuffs right side out. 3. Cut slits at ends of sleeves and overlock edges. Turn seam allowances inside and edgestitch on right side (3). Fold slit with right side inside and sew across bottom of slit (4). 4. Fold ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats near split (5). Sew raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with right side of cuff against wrong side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and press. Pin basted edge of cuff onto previous seam and edgestitch from right side. 5. Sew buttonholes and attach buttons to cuffs. 10 Men/Young Men’s Collection SEWING THE SHIRT Note: Men’s shirt can be sewn according to the instructions for Women’s Blouse, as follows. Shirt, however, does not have front dividing seams or back darts. 1. Fold front edge's seam allowances (1 cm) inwards and baste (1). Fold again, but now with right side inside along button extension fold line. Stitch button extension across top and bottom edges (2). If you are going to sew convertible collar to blouse, stitch top end from fold only to center front, and cut seam allowance diagonally there. Turn button extension to its proper position and sew along folded edge of seam allowance on wrong side. 2. Sew and overlock front dividing seams (3). Sew back shoulder and waist darts (4). Sew and overlock shoulder seams. 3. Fasten collar according to instructions above. Sew convertible collar beginning from front center, and shirt collar beginning from edge of button extension (fold). 4. Cut sleeve slits at sleeve ends. Overlock slit edges, turn inwards and edgestitch (5). Stitch across end of slits on wrong side (6). 5. Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance (7). Sew sleeves to armscyes along ease stitching, right sides together, sleeves' shoulder mark matching blouse's shoulder seams. Pull ends of easestitching along cap to adjust ease. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should be as much ease as possible but no wrinkles at cap seams when ready. Overlock. 6. Sew and overlock sleeve and side seams continuously from blouse hem to sleeve end. 7. Fold in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (8). Fold cuffs horizontally in two, right sides inside, and sew along ends. Note that seam allowance of one edge has been folded in and the other is not folded, so the edges don't meet. Cut seam allowance diagonally at corners and turn cuffs right side out. Fold ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats at distance between slit and sleeve center line. 8. Sew raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with cuff's right side against wrong side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and edgestitch basted edges to sleeves from right side. 9. Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons to front center and to sleeve cuffs. SEWING THE PANTS Pattern pieces include: 11 Men/Young Men’s Collection Pants front: Cut two pieces. Two styles are available – either with darts or with pleats. Mark the darts or pleats, but do not cut them. Pants back: Cut two pieces. Do not cut out the darts. Waistband: Cut one on fold of fabric. Waistband piece includes a 1½” extension for button and buttonhole. Pockets: Cut two pieces for each pocket. One piece is of trouser fabric and one of lining material. Interfacing: Cut an interfacing piece for the waistband, using the waistband pattern cut in half lengthwise. Lining: For trouser lining, use pants pattern pieces. Cut two front pieces and two back pieces. DARTS AND PLEATS (1) To make darts in front or back, fold the dart lines with right sides together. Stitch on the dart lines. Press fold of dart toward center of garment. To make pleats in each FRONT, bring pleat lines right sides together and pin or baste them at top. BACK SEAM (2) Sew and overlock back center seam, with elastic stitching if possible. FRONT SEAM AND ZIPPER (3-4) Overlock front center seam and edges of zipper placket. Sew front center seam from inside seam to where zipper placket begins (3). Fasten zipper according to general instructions above. POCKETS (5-6) Cut front piece pocket corner off, don't forget to add seam allowance. Put a reinforcing strip of non-elastic fabric (not included in pattern) into the seam to prevent pocket mouth from stretching during use. Place pocket lining along slacks front piece's pocket line, right sides together, and sew (5). Turn pocket lining inside and edgestitch pocket mouth. Sew another row of stitches at presser foot's width from the first row of stitches. Place pocket corner pieces under pocket lining with round edges matching. Sew and overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth open (6). LEG SEAMS (7-8) Place front and back sections of slacks on top of each other, right sides together. Sew and overlock outside seams. Sew and overlock inside leg seams from cuff to cuff. 12 Men/Young Men’s Collection LINING (optional) Lining is optional, depending on fabric and style. For a full lining, waistband is attached to trousers and lining together. For a front lining only, handle front garment and front lining pieces as if they were one. For a full lining, cut lining pieces using pants front and back patterns. Overlock all edges. Fold darts into pleats and baste at seam allowance. Stitch back seam. Stitch front seam from crotch to beginning of zipper placket allowance. Fold seam allowance of placket opening inside and edgestitch. Place front and back pieces of lining right sides together; stitch together along side seams. Stitch and overlock leg inside seams from cuff to cuff. Press seam open. Fold hem border in twice and baste or pin into position. Turn lining inside out. Pin to pants at the waist, wrong sides together with side seams matching. Attach waistband, handling pants and lining as one. Tack placket lining carefully to zipper tape, about ¼” from zipper teeth. Check hem length of lining, and stitch hem. WAISTBAND Fasten waistband according to general instructions above. CUFFS Overlock cuffs, fold cuff allowances inwards and press. Blindstitch with machine or by hand. SEWING THE JACKET (refer to illustration on following page) Notes: • Remember that the macros do not automatically add seam allowances. You should do this yourself with the OFFSET command before printing the pieces. • When cutting the pieces, do not add seam allowance to pocket mouth. • When cutting pieces, cut upper collar piece about ¼ inch (½ cm) bigger at outer edges. This forces the collar to turn down to its correct position when it is done. • Notice that you must add width for a pleat to the back lining piece. This is shown in (18) in the illustration below. APPLY INTERFACING Iron interfacing to jacket's front facing and back neck. Interfacing is also ironed to under collar and pocket welts or flaps. If you want the jacket to be very "stiff," iron interfacing to jacket's front piece as well. It is also good to iron interfacing to jacket's hem – set it in just beyond the hem seam allowance. FRONT/BACK SEAMS, FRONT DART, POCKET (1-7) Sew and then overlock all vertical seams on body. Collar, shoulder and sleeve seams do not need to be overlocked. Press all seams after sewing and overlocking them. 13 Men/Young Men’s Collection Sew front waist dart (1). Stitch pocket mouth edges together with temporary zigzag stitches (2). To strengthen pocket mouth, iron interfacing to its wrong side (3). Do the same with the section of pocket mouth on the side panel (4). Sew front piece to side panel, right sides of material together (5). Use the standard pocket techniques (in separate manual) to attach the pockets. The kind of pocket openings to use, and exactly where to place them, are styling decisions for you to make. If you sew a patch pocket at hip, place it so that it covers the zigzagged pocket mouth. Attach welt, buttonhole or flap pocket onto zigzagged pocket mouth. Sew back pieces to front/side piece (6) and back seam (7), right side against right side.. SLEEVES (8-12) The sleeves come in two pieces, top and bottom. Place bottom piece on top of upper sleeve, right side against right side, and sew from corner of sleeve cap to where button placket begins (8). Sew from there around button placket (9 and 10). Baste button placket fold line (11). Press button placket under upper sleeve and remove basting. Fold inside and press seam allowance at cuff. Check that length of sleeves is correct, then sew buttons to button placket. Sew them through all layers of fabric. Buttonholes are optional. Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) (12). Sew front seam of sleeves. Turn sleeves right side out and jacket wrong side out. Place sleeves inside jacket (right side against right side) so that sleeves' shoulder marks match with jacket shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestitches. Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. Sew sleeve cap to jacket. If there tends to be too much ease at sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), you can adjust this by placing sleeves lower at armpit. There should be as much ease as possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done. COLLAR (13-17) As noted above, cut upper collar about 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) bigger at outer edges. This forces the collar to turn down to its correct position when it is done. Place under collar on upper collar, right side against right side, and sew along edges (13). Trim seam allowances and cut corners before turning the collar right side out. Turn collar right side out and press. Edgestitch if desired. Place collar on jacket neckline, with right side of under collar piece against jacket's right side. Sew from shoulder (14) to lapel corner (15). Cut jacket's neck seam allowance at corner (16). Now turn jacket's lapel under the collar and sew from lapel corner to lapel notch mark (from 16 to 17). After having sewn both ends of collar to lapels, attach the rest of the collar to jacket's back neck. If you have difficulties in this (collar will be a bit longer than neck), first easestitch jacket neck at distance of normal seam allowance. 14 Men/Young Men’s Collection LINING (18-20) The entire lining is assembled separately as follows, then attached to the rest of the jacket as a unit. When cutting jacket lining, cut extra width at top part of back piece (18). Sew lining's back seam at edge. Baste extra width along back center seam to make a soft pleat. Iron the pleat, then remove the basted stitches. Sew front pieces of lining to side panels (19) and front/side pieces to back piece (20). Fold hem of lining in twice and sew. The lining should be an inch or so (about 2 cm) shorter than the jacket when done. Fasten jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right side against right side. Sew shoulder seams. Attach sleeves to lining as you did with jacket shell. JOIN JACKET AND LINING To join jacket and lining, place the lining on top of the jacket with right side against right side. Leave collar in between and upside down. Sew a continuous seam as follows: across hem of front facing, along one front edge, around neck to other front edge and finally across other front facing. Leave jacket hem open. Snip seam allowance at starting point of lapels and at neck seam at about 1 inch (2 cm) intervals. Cut corners diagonally (including at front of hem) so that you will be able to turn it right side out.. Turn lining inside jacket. Open seams well and press. Edgestitch if desired. Attach lining to sleeve ends. Sew hem with invisible stitches. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons. Do a final pressing. SEWING THE VEST Vests are made with both a lining and a shell. For vests that are worn with a jacket, both shell and lining in back are usually made of lining material. The following uses a rare and ingenious way of lining a vest, which we have been very pleased with. The same method can be used for lining ladies' and children's vests. FRONT DARTS, FACING, AND LINING (1-7) Sew darts closed on front shell (1) and lining (2). Iron interfacing to front facing (3) and to armscye facings (4). Sew front facing to front lining right side against right side (5). Zigzag armscye facings onto linings, wrong side of lining against right side of shell. Place front pieces onto linings, right side against right side and sew armscye seams (6). Leave side seam raw and sew bottom and front edges (7). Leave shoulder seam raw. Turn front pieces right side out and press. 15 Men/Young Men’s Collection BACK DARTS, FACING, AND LINING (8-13) Sew back darts closed on back shell and lining (8). Sew back seam (9). Iron interfacing to neck facing (10) and armscye (11) facings. Zigzag facings onto lining, with their wrong side against lining's right side. Sew back seam of lining (12). Place back piece onto back piece of lining, right sides together, and sew along hem (13). Press. Leave all other seams raw. JOINING FRONT AND BACK SECTIONS (14-17) Sandwich front pieces between back piece and back lining as follows: Place front pieces between back piece and back lining. Right side of front piece is against right side of back and right side of front piece's lining is against right side of back piece's lining. Pin side and shoulder seams through all layers of fabric. Sew a continuous seam along side seam (14), back armscye (15), shoulder (16) and part of neck (17). This way, you sew the front and back side seams and shoulder seams simultaneously. Sew other side of the vest the same way. Leave a hole at back of neck for turning the vest right side out. Turn the vest right side out. Close hole at back neck by hand. Sew buttonholes and fasten buttons to center front. Edgestitch if desired. Do final pressing. 16 PatternMaker Software Measuring for Men's Garments 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. body height neck circumference chest circumference waist circumference hip circumference chest width (Front Width) back length back width sleeve length knee circumference outside seam length inside seam length Following are the instructions on how to measure for PatternMaker men's macros. You will need three pieces of elastic or heavy twill tape, a measuring tape, and another person to read the measuring tape, if you are the subject. Don't try to take the measurements yourself, because bending over to read the tape will distort the measurements. Stand straight but relaxed when you are being measured. You will receive the best results if the measurements are taken over underwear. Take measurements accurate to the nearest ¼ inch or ½ centimeter. Place 1” (3 cm) wide elastic bands around the chest, waist and hip. Search carefully for the correct places of these elastic bands. Waist elastic should be at the natural waistline for shirt, jacket, and vest macros. For the pants macro only, the waist elastic should lie around the point where you want your pants’ waistband to fit. For all other patterns, be sure that the elastic is level from front to back. Hip elastic goes around the points where your hip circumference is maximum (these may not be the points that look largest in profile). It is IMPORTANT to use the elastic bands throughout all measuring. ALL VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN FROM AND TO THE LOWER EDGE OF ELASTIC BANDS. Don’t remove the elastic until all necessary measurements have been taken. Except for pants' and sleeve cuff circumference and jacket length, you should use the actual body measurements. DO NOT ADD ANY EASE to the measurements, the program does it for you. DO NOT TIGHTEN MEASURING TAPE. You can use either centimeters or inches. Give inches in fractions PatternMaker Software Men’s Measuring Chart Name: ___________________________ Date: ___________ SHIRT AND JACKET 1 Body Height: Measure the full height of the subject. 2 Neck Circumference: Measure around lowest part of neck, at the base. 3 Chest Circumference: Marked with elastic. Measure around the fullest part of the chest, under armpits, keeping the tape high at the back. 4 Waist Circumference: Measure waist at elastic. 5 Hip Circumference: Measured over the largest part of the subject’s bottom/thighs at elastic. 6 Chest Width: Measure across chest at widest point from sleeve seam to sleeve seam. Hold your arms relaxed at your sides. Measure at the points where the arms touch the body. 7 Back Length: From bottom of back neck to back waist center. For the bottom of the neck, use the fifth vertebra (the one that makes a bump at the base of the neck). 8 Back Width: Width across shoulder blades from sleeve seam to sleeve seam. Measure at widest point of back. Hold your arms relaxed at your sides. Measure at the points where the arms touch the body. 9 Sleeve length: Measure from shoulder tip to wrist. Shoulder tip is where you can feel a gap between the shoulder and arm bones. Hold your arm horizontal, if necessary, to find the point. Hold arm slightly bent and measure over outside of elbow. Jacket Length from Waist: From waist to desired length of jacket. Jacket sleeve cuff circumference: Desired jacket sleeve cuff circumference; not needed for shirt PANTS 4 Waist Circumference: Measure around the point where you want the pants’ waistband to fit. This may be at a different level than for shirt and jacket. Some men want to wear pants below abdomen at front. 10 Knee Circumference: Measured over the largest part of the subject’s knee 11 Outside Length: From bottom edge of waist elastic to desired cuff length. Measure over the outside curvature of the hip. 12 Inside Length: Ask subject what inseam he usually buys, or measure from crotch to desired cuff length on an existing pair of pants. Cuff Circumference: Desired circumference of pants’ cuff. This is the actual circumference of the pants leg, not the ankle measurement.
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