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Wire Harness Installation Instructions
Manual for Installing Harness Numbers:
10308:
18-Circuit Customizable Chassis Harness w/ Extra Length
Wires
Manual 90527
Painless Performance Products recommends you, the installer, read this installation manual from front to back before installing this harness.
Painless Performance Products, LLC
2501 Ludelle St.
Fort Worth, TX 76105-1036
PHONE: 800-423-9696 FAX: 817-244-4024
EMAIL: [email protected]
If you have any questions concerning the installation of this harness, feel free to call Painless Performance Products' Tech Line at 1-800-423-
9696. The Tech Line can be reached from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. central time,
Monday through Thursday, and 8 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. on Fridays.
We have attempted to provide you with as accurate instructions as possible and are always concerned about corrections or improvements that can be made. If you have found any issues or omissions, or simply have comments or concerning these instructions, please write us at the above address, send us a fax at (817) 244 – 4024, or email us at
[email protected]
. We sincerely appreciate your business.
Painless Performance Products, LLC shall in no event be liable in contract or tort (including negligence) for special, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages, such as but not limited to, loss of property damage, or any other damages, costs or expenses which might be claimed as the result of the use or failure of the goods sold hereby, except only the cost of repair or replacement. i
CAUTION:
BEFORE THE REMOVAL OF YOUR ORIGINAL
HARNESS AND/OR THE INSTALL OF YOUR NEW PAINLESS
HARNESS, DISCONNECT THE POWER FROM YOUR VEHICLE BY
REMOVING THE NEGATIVE OR POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM
THE BATTERY.
•
A full-color copy of these instructions can be found online at:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/manuals/10308.pdf
•
If your vehicle has an existing harness, you will want to retain it for the possible re-use of various pigtails and connector housings particular to your application. During the removal process, avoid making any unnecessary cuts.
•
This harness is universal in nature. This means most/all ends are left open to allow you to cut each wire to length and make the appropriate connection. The small parts package and the bag kits with terminals and connectors included with the harness will enable you to make connections.
•
Only printed wires have a 900-series number. These 900-series numbers are used to identify various wires and circuits in the wiring diagrams that are a part of these instructions.
•
This harness will not support the use of a factory or aftermarket
Ammeter.
In the event that there are unused or unconnected wires, they will need to have their ends terminated with an insulated terminal or electrical tape. Doing so will prevent the wires from shorting and causing harness failure or fire. ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE # SECTION
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
10
10
11
12
14
27
28
29
30
30
31
32
33
34
35
38
15
16
16
16
17
18
19
19
20
22
24
26
INTRODUCTION
CONTENTS
SMALL PARTS
TOOLS NEEDED
TO REMOVE A TERMINAL
INSTALLING FACTORY STYLE TERMINALS
GROUNDS
WHY ARE CLEAN GROUNDS IMPORTANT?
FUSE BLOCK
HORN RELAY
FLASHERS
FUSE IDENTIFICATION
RELAYS & SWITCHES
OLD FACTORY HARNESS REMOVAL
PRE-INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
FIREWALL PASS-THRU
FUSE BLOCK MOUNTING
FIREWALL MOUNTING
HARNESS ROUTING
ON THE INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
HEADLIGHT SECTION
LEFT / DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT
3-prong, Sealed Beam/Sealed Beam Halogen/ H4 Halogen
Headlights with Pigtails
LEFT PARK / SIDE MARKER LIGHT
LEFT TURN / PARK LIGHT
39
40
41
42
44
46
47
48
Continued…
HORN
RIGHT TURN / PARK LIGHT & HEADLIGHT
ENGINE SECTION
BRAKE SWITCH (Hydraulic)
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
ELECTRIC CHOKE
COIL
Turbo 400 Transmission
Tachometer
START/CHARGE SECTION
ALTERNATOR
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT
GM SI SERIES ALTERNATORS
GM CS-130 SERIES ALTERNATORS
GM CS-130D SERIES ALTERNATORS
GM EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATOR
FORD EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATORS
Method #1 iii
SECTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE #
73
74
75
76
78
79
65
66
67
69
71
72
80
82
82
83
84
59
61
63
64
64
48
49
51
51
52
53
54
56
58
Method #2
FORD 3G ALTERNATOR
MOPAR EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATOR
Mechanical Regulator
Electrical Regulator
MIDI FUSE
STARTER SOLENOID
Mopar Starter Relays
INTERIOR HARNESS
DIMMER SWITCH
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
GM HEADLIGHT SWITCH
FORD HEADLIGHT SWITCH
CHRYSLER HEADLIGHT SWITCH
PAINLESS UNIVERSAL HEADLIGHT SWITCHES
TOGGLE / ROCKER HEADLIGHT SWITCH
BRAKE SWITCH
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
GM COLUMNS / AFTERMARKET GM STYLE COLUMNS
EXTERNAL / CLAMP-ON COLUMN MOUNTED SWITCH
SPDT TOGGLE SWITCH
HAZARD SWITCH
HORN BUTTON
NEUTRAL SAFETY / CLUTCH SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH
GM COLUMN MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
GM DASH MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
FORD KEY ON THE DASH
PAINLESS UNIVERSAL IGN. SWITCH -
INSTRUMENT PANEL
FACTORY PRINTED CIRCUIT GAUGES
#80153
94
94
94
96
85
85
87
92
93
94
AFTERMARKET GAUGES
SEPARATE HARNESS- PAINLESS
HARDWIRING
RADIO & ACCESSORIES
RADIO
ACCESSORY SECTION
Wiper Switch
Fan Relay Activation Using #906 Accessory Power (Ign.)
Powering a Component
Relays
98
100
100
Continued…
Additional Wires
TAIL SECTION
LEFT SIDE MARKER LIGHT
#30301 & 30302 iv
PAGE #
101
101
102
103
103
106
107
SECTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LICENSE PLATE LIGHT
LEFT TURN / BRAKE LIGHTS
TAIL LIGHTS
FUEL SENDING UNIT
RIGHT TURN/ BRAKE/ REVERSE/ MARKER LIGHTS
TESTING THE SYSTEM
WIRE INDEX
SCHEMATICS
PAGE # SECTION
12
13
12 VOLT SOURCE ACTIVATION
GROUND ACTIVATION
13
23
25
28
29
33
FAN RELAY GROUND ACTIVATION
STREET ROD “BUCKET” STYLE HEADLIGHTS
SIDE MARKER LIGHTS
HEADLIGHT SECTION
ENGINE SECTION
CHOKE & TH400 TRANSMISSION
46
47
50
51
52
54
55
55
36
37
37
38
40
41
43
45
56
57
60
60
62
63
63
64
64
65
65
66
Continued…
BALLAST RESISTOR CONNECTIONS
HEI COIL ON CAP CONNECTIONS
MSD IGNITION CONNECTIONS
CHARGE / BATTERY POWER
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT
10-SI ALTERNATOR
CS-130 ALTERNATOR
CS-130D ALTERNATOR
EXTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
FORD EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATORS
FORD 3G ALTERNATOR
MOPAR EXTERNAL REGULATOR (pre-1970)
MOPAR EXTERNAL REGULATOR (1970+)
GM STARTER CONNECTIONS
FORD CHARGE/BATTERY POWER SCHEMATIC
FORD STARTER SOLENOID
MOPAR STARTER RELAY
SR14 RELAY
HEADLIGHT DIMMER SWITCH
FORD HEADLIGHT DIMMER SWITCH
HEADLIGHT SWITCH & DIMMER SWITCH
EARLY STYLE GM HEADLIGHT SWITCH (also PAINLESS #80152 )
LATER STYLE GM HEADLIGHT SWITCH
FORD STYLE HEADLIGHT SWITCH
CHRYSLER STYLE HEADLIGHT SWITCH
PAINLESS HEADLIGHT SWITCH #80151
PAINLESS HEADLIGHT SWITCH #80154
NON-LIGHTED SPST TOGGLE/ROCKER HEADLIGHT SWITCH v
PAGE #
90
91
92
95
95
96
97
97
98
98
99
99
100
104
105
80
80
81
81
82
82
86
87
66
68
72
73
74
74
78
79
87
88
88
89
89
SCHEMATICS
SECTION
LIGHTED SPST TOGGLE/ROCKER HEADLIGHT SWITCH
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH & BRAKE SWITCH
EXTERNAL / CLAMP-ON COLUMN MOUNTED SWITCH
TOGGLE SWITCH TURN SIGNAL
3PST ON-OFF HAZARD SWITCH
SPST ON-OFF HAZARD SWITCH (BRAKES ONLY)
IGNITION SWITCH SCHEMATIC
COLUMN MOUNTED GM IGNITION SWITCH
’55 – ’57 CHEVY IGNITION SWITCH PINOUT
EARLY 60s GM DASH MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH SCHEMATIC
MID TO LATE 60s GM DASH MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
’67-’72 GM TRUCK DASH MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH SCHEMATIC
FORD DASH MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
PAINLESS UNIVERSAL IGNITION SWITCH #80153
30301 or 30302 CONNECTOR PINOUT
POWERING AFTERMARKET GAUGES (SPLICING)
POWERING AFTERMARKET GAUGES (CHAINING/JUMPING)
GROUNDING AFTERMARKET GAUGES (SPLICING)
GROUNDING AFTERMARKET GAUGES (CHAINING/JUMPING)
AFTERMARKET GAUGE LIGHT POWER (SPLICING)
AFTERMARKET GAUGE LIGHT POWER (CHAINING/JUMPING)
AFTERMARKET GAUGE SENDER WIRES
INSTRUMENT PANEL
RADIO & ACCESSORY SECTION
POWERING A COMPONENT (INSIDE THE VEHICLE)
POWERING A COMPONENT (ENGINE COMPARTMENT OR TAIL SECTION)
12V RELAY ACTIVATION (INSIDE THE VEHICLE)
12V RELAY ACTIVATION (ENGINE COMPARTMENT OR TAIL SECTION)
FAN RELAY 12 VOLT ACTIVATION
FAN RELAY GROUND ACTIVATION
GM HEADLIGHT SWITCH DOME LIGHT ACTIVATION
CHRYSLER STYLE HEADLIGHT SWITCH DOME LIGHT ACTIVATION
FORD HEADLIGH SWITCH DOME LIGHT ACTIVATION
SIDE MARKER
TAIL SECTION W/ INTEGRATED TURN/BRAKE LIGHTS
TAIL SECTION W/ SEPARATE TURN/BRAKE LIGHT vi
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for your purchase of a Painless Performance Products harness. This is a customizable harness; therefore, we suggest you retain your original harness for any unique plugs or connectors you may need while installing your new harness.
The fuse block is pre-terminated, and the proper fuses for each circuit are preinstalled. All wires are colored based on GM color codes. Also, each wire is marked with a 900-series wire number, what section the wire is in, and the wire’s function. These 900series numbers are assigned by Painless and do not correspond to any circuit numbers found on any factory wiring schematics. A Wire Index is beginning on page 107 provides a quick reference guide for the individual wires of this harness. The Wire Index identifies the gauge, color, what’s printed on the wire, and point of origin for each wire.
During the course of this manual, you will notice wires with a slash ( Ex.
BLUE / WHITE ). This indicates a wire with a stripe. The first color listed is the main wire color, and the second color will reference the stripe color. Therefore, the BLUE / WHITE example will be a BLUE wire with a WHITE Stripe.
Do not let the length of this instruction manual intimidate you. Much of the information contained in this manual is helpful information about each wire, where the wire comes from, where it goes, why a component needs it, etc. In many cases, there are multiple schematics as well as alternate connection options for the same wire/connection point due to this being a customizable harness. You will find that the actual install portions of this manual are pretty straightforward and easy to follow.
Individual components and sections are tied together for easy routing of the harness. GM color-coded wires, along with the schematic diagrams found throughout this manual and the printed circuit numbers and description printed on the wire, will help you identify the different circuits during installation and later on if additions to the overall system are necessary.
As you read through this installation manual, prior to installing your new harness, you will find blank areas titled NOTES in each section and in the back of the manual. You may find these sections beneficial for taking your own notes, listing components you are connecting to on your vehicle and the factory or manufacturer wires that are coming from the component. You can then use the text in the manual and the wire index in the back of the manual to identify the wire and circuit number in the Painless harness that will connect to that requirement. For example, a turn signal switch for a 1966 Impala:
1
CONTENTS
Refer to the Contents Figure (below) to take inventory. See that you have everything you’re intended to have in this kit. If you find that anything is missing or damaged, please contact the dealer where you obtained the kit or Painless Performance at (800) 423-9696.
The Painless Wire Harness Kit 10308 should contain the following:
•
Pre-terminated fuse block and harness.
•
Pre-terminated ignition switch wiring for GM key on column vehicles.
•
Parts Kits: (1) insulated loose piece terminals kit (1) un-insulated terminal kit
•
3 bag kits: Alternator bag, heat shrink bag, a bag w/ zip ties, and other parts
•
This manual: 90527
2
SMALL PARTS
This Painless harness includes several parts kits containing a variety of terminals, fuses, and screws. Many of the terminals are non-insulated and require heat shrink to be applied after the terminal is properly crimped. Heat shrink is supplied with this kit.
These non-insulated terminals allow you to keep a cleaner, more factory look; colored insulated terminals can look out of place. When crimping these terminals, take notice of the split in the terminal. Always make sure the split in these non-insulated terminals is facing the groove.
3
TOOLS NEEDED
In addition to your regular hand tools, you will need, at least, the following tools:
•
Wire Crimping and Stripping Tools:
This style of hand crimper can be purchased from just about any local auto parts store, home improvement store or can also be purchased online.
You will need this style of crimper to crimp the heat shrinkable and non-heat shrinkable, insulated terminals included in the small parts kit.
Another style of crimpers is “Jaw
Crimpers” or “Roll-Over Crimpers.”
These crimpers will crimp factory style, non-insulated terminals. These types of terminals are provided in the kit for connecting to an HEI distributor, headlights, and factory-style alternator.
Painless offers “Jaw Crimpers,” such as those seen to the right, under Painless part #70900.
A good set of wire strippers is required to strip wire properly. This style of wire stripper is ideal for this harness install because of its ability to properly strip wire gauges 10 to 20. These are available from just about any local auto part store, electrical supply shop, home improvement store or can be purchased online.
•
Volt/Ohm Meter:
A Volt/Ohm meter is always a good tool to have on hand when installing any type of electrical components in a vehicle. Most basic units provide the two functions required to diagnose electrical issues seen during a harness install.
These two functions are the ability to read DC Voltage and electrical continuity or Ohms. They can be purchased from any home improvement store, local hardware store, electrical supply shop, and online.
4
•
Electric Drill & Drill Bits:
A drill and bits are needed in order to mount the MIDI fuse holder and the fuse block. Additionally, a ¼” drill bit is required in order to mount the “umbrella” style zip-ties provided with the kit.
•
Heat Gun:
Very useful to shrink the heat-shrinkable terminals found in the parts kit.
•
Small (10 amp or less) Battery Charger
See TESTING THE SYSTEM located on page 106 .
.
•
Factory Wire Schematic
This isn’t absolutely necessary; however, having one handy is good practice with any electrical job.
TO REMOVE A TERMINAL
.
•
Notice the locking tang that holds the terminal in the connector. Locate the tang access slot on the terminal end of the connector. Push a paper clip, stiff wire, or a small flat head screwdriver into the slot to depress the locking tang on the terminal.
•
Once depressed, pull the harness wire from the connector. Do not pull too hard or you could pull the wire out of the terminal; this leaves the terminal stuck in the connector.
5
INSTALLING FACTORY STYLE TERMINALS
In the parts kit, you will see different uninsulated male and female terminals. These terminals are for factory-style connections and require rollover crimpers.
• Strip about ¼” of insulation off of the wire.
•
Insert the wire into the terminal. There are two terminal straps on the terminal. For instructional purposes, we will label them 1 and 2. Strap 1 crimps the exposed copper strands of the wire, while strap 2 crimps the wire insulation. Make your strip length long enough to ensure only copper strands are crimped by Strap 1 but short enough that only insulation is crimped by Strap 2. The photo to the left best demonstrates this.
•
Using the appropriate jaw on the crimpers, crimp Strap 1. The appropriate jaw depends on the wire gauge as well as the terminal stiffness. If you are unsure which jaw to use, you can always start with the biggest and work your way down until you get a tight crimp.
•
With Strap 1 crimped, move onto crimping the insulation strap: Strap
2. Place Strap 2 into the appropriate jaw of the crimpers. This jaw will be larger than the one used to crimp the first strap. Crimp down on Strap 2 making sure the strap folds down into the wire, and not overlapping itself. Refer to the drawing to the left.
Overlapping could cause problems with the terminal fitting into the factory connector.
6
GROUNDS
7
Throughout this instruction manual, and when looking at the
Painless harness, you will see the word GROUND. Maybe you have seen the ground symbol on wiring diagrams before? What exactly is a ground and why do you need it?
You have probably noticed the large cable coming from the negative side of your battery going down to the frame or to the engine. This cable allows voltage to get back to the battery through the metal of the frame and all the other metal pieces bolted to the frame. It is also important to have ground cables going from the frame to the engine and from the frame to the body.
A ground is simply the common path electrical current follows back to the battery. A ground, or chassis ground as it is often called, is any bare metal surface found on the vehicle which is in turn connected back to the frame/negative side of the battery through mounting points and ground straps. Grounds are needed in order for the electrical current to complete the circuit.
There are two ways components are grounded in vehicles: through mounting and through a wired connection.
Some grounds are supplied through mounting of the metal housings in which bulbs are installed, like turn signal or tail light housings. Components with plastic housings or non-conductive housings, like headlights which are glass, get their grounds through wires from the chassis harness.
Make sure all mounting points are clean by removing any dirt, corrosion, and/or paint. This includes light housings that ground through mounting them and the harness ground wire connection point. This is especially important for cars that have recently been painted as paint build-up will cause grounding issues. 80 grit or courser sandpaper should be all that’s needed to properly clean grounding points.
WHY ARE CLEAN GROUNDS IMPORTANT?
As an example, we will use a front turn signal that also functions as a park light.
Follow the red line from right to left in the diagram below. This red line indicates the path the electrical current takes when everything is properly grounded. The diagram on the next page represents when the ground is bad. Notice which bulbs illuminate when good and bad grounds are present.
In our park light example with a good ground source, current travels from the headlight switch to the park light bulb element. Since the bulb is properly grounded, current passes cleanly through the bulb causing it to illuminate and the current exits the bulb through the ground source back to the battery. The ground allows everything to work properly without any issues.
8
When a ground is not connected properly or is contaminated with dirt, corrosion, or paint, the current will then find the easiest path to ground. This is represented in the diagram below.
Current travels from the headlight switch to the park light bulb element, but wait: there is no ground at the bulb. Since the ground it normally uses is not there, the current finds another path to ground and back to the battery. When this happens, things that should not have power receive power coming from the park light bulb. Since the turn signal wire also goes to the bulb, the current will travel out of the bulb through the turn signal wire. Notice this bad ground at the front park/turn signal bulb can cause issues on the interior of the vehicle at the turn signal indicator on the dash. In this case, the turn signal indicator light is illuminated when it should not be. Also, since this one power source which was only supposed to power 1 bulb is now powering 2 bulbs, both bulbs may be dimmer than they would be if everything was grounded properly. This is one of the problems with diagnosing a bad ground: they can cause issues throughout the entire vehicle.
9
FUSE BLOCK
Your Painless harness contains a pre-terminated fuse block that uses modern ATC blade style fuses. There are 8 fuses controlling 18 circuits. This fuse block allows the convenience of having both flashers (turn signal and hazard), as well as the horn relay, all mounted in one location.
HORN RELAY
On the fuse block, you will find a horn relay that replaces the factory core support/firewall mounted horn relay found on many older vehicles. The fuse block mounted horn relay uses a standard 30 amp SPST relay and is ground activated from a wire in the Turn Signal Switch group of wires.
Replacement relays for the horn relay can be found at any auto parts store or by ordering
Painless part number #80131 .
FL
ASHER
S
The two flashers simply switch power on and off going to the turn signal switch and hazard switch. The flasher on the right is the hazard flasher. The flasher on the left is the turn flasher.
How a flasher functions is simple.
Power is switched off and on according to heat built-in the resistance wire inside the flasher. As soon as the current is drawn through the flasher, as when the turn signal or hazard switch is activated, the resistance wire heats up and makes contact with the output side of the flasher. This contact passes power through the flasher, into the switch and to the turn signal lamp(s). Once this contact is made, the resistance wire is no longer resisting any current, so it begins to cool; this cooling causes the flasher to lose contact. This loss of contact means that there is no longer any current going to the switch, causing the turn signal light to turn off. Once contact is lost, the resistance wire begins heating up and the entire process starts over again until the turn signal switch or hazard switch is disengaged
Some LED turn signals do not draw enough current to activate a typical thermal flasher. If you are using LED turn signals, and your turn signals do not work properly and you are certain everything is connected properly, a no-load flasher will be required ( Painless part number #80230 ).
10
FUSE IDENTIFICATION
The drawing above shows all the switched ignition fuses. These fuses are powered by wires coming from the ignition switch (wires #932 and #933) and receive power depending on what position the ignition switch is in.
NONE OF THESE FUSES SHOULD
HAVE POWER WHEN THE IGNITION IS IN THE OFF POSITION.
The Ignition Switch
Section beginning on page 78 of this manual will go into further detail about power supplied to these fuses.
The drawing below shows all the battery power fuses. These fuses are powered by a wire that comes from the large power splice, seen on page 38 . The battery power fuses have power at all times.
11
RELAYS & SWITCHES
All ACCESSORY wires found in this harness can support up to 15 amps alone.
Components requiring more amperage will need to be connected to a relay. The amount of amperage needed by the component will determine the size of the relay and circuit breaker needed. An ACCESSORY wire can be used as a 12-volt activation source or 12volt source for ground activation in these circumstances. Take a look at Painless Relay
Banks (part #’s 30107 & 30108) or
Painless Single Relays (like part #’s 80130 &
80131) to fill your relay needs at www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/relay .
A 12-volt activated relay is constantly grounded. As the name implies, the relay sends power from the output side of the relay to the component being powered when 12 volts is applied. The 12-volt source can be wired directly to the relay or interrupted by a switch, as shown in the 12-VOLT SOURCE ACTIVATION drawing.
Wiring directly to the relay, as indicated by the dashed line, would be used in the case of wiring a water pump relay or any other high amperage component you would want to run continuously while the key is in the on position. In these cases, make certain the 12-volt wire you are using is an Ignition Switched 12-volt wire and not a battery constant hot.
The 12-volt activation wire can also be wired to a switch to offer the user OFF/ON capabilities. In these situations, a constant battery power source would be used. This would allow a component to be turned OFF or ON without the key in the ON position.
12
A ground activated relay is just the opposite of the 12-volt, activated relay; 12 volts
(battery constant or switched) are supplied uninterrupted and the ground wire is switched.
The Horn Relay pre-wired in the Painless harness is a Ground Activated Relay. Another example of this method is a thermostat operated fan relay. In this case, however, a thermostatic switch would replace the switch in the drawing above (see below).
IN THE EVENT THAT A TOGGLE/ROCKER SWITCH IS BEING USED
WITHOUT A RELAY, MAKE SURE THE AMPERAGE OF THE COMPONENT YOU
ARE POWERING DOES NOT EXCEED THE CAPABILITIES OF THE SWITCH OR
SWITCH FAILURE WILL OCCUR. IF YOU NEED A RELAY KIT PAINLESS OFFERS
PART #’S 30128, 30128, & 30130
.
13
OLD FACTORY HARNESS REMOVAL
During the removal of the old, factory harness, avoid making any unnecessary cuts to any wires. The entire harness should be able to come out of the vehicle without any cutting at all unless someone has modified connections.
Labeling the factory harness is highly suggested as it may be helpful to look back at the factory harness during the install of the new Painless harness. Plus, taking this step helps you identify anything that may not be included in the Painless harness and will need to be re-used. Individual wires and connectors can easily be labeled using masking tape.
Take photos or make a drawing of any connections that have multiple connectors, like at the wiper motor, wiper switch, radio, etc., to help with reconnecting the new harness.
For cars with aftermarket air, power locks/windows, and/or a power antenna, this harness does not provide circuits for these features.
To aid in the removal and installation of the harness, first, remove the driver seat or bench seat and then the steering wheel. It is not completely necessary to remove the steering wheel; however, doing so allows you more room to work while removing the factory harness and installing the new Painless harness. Also, if the Tail Harness is to be routed through the interior of the vehicle , the sill plates and rear seat will need to be removed in order to route the wires under the carpet.
14
PRE-INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
LEARNING YOUR NEW HARNESS:
Before moving your harness into your vehicle, it is a good exercise to lay the entire harness out next to your vehicle. This will allow you to identify all sections of your new
Painless harness. Wires are clearly marked to help ease the process of routing.
The only wires that make up the main harness are those leading directly to the fuse block. All lay-in wires can be found in separate bags. The majority of the wires being free of the main harness allows for greater ease in customization. All wires have ample length to account for the numerous way components can be mounted in the vehicle. This will allow you to route your wires cleanly and terminate at the length you find fits your build best.
•
Engine/Headlight Group - Includes high beam, low beam, park, right turn, left turn, electric fan, horn, starter solenoid and battery feed, alternator and alternator exciter wire, coil, water temperature, and oil pressure.
•
DASH GROUP - Includes wires to connect gauges, indicator lights, and switches to their proper sources.
•
REAR LIGHT GROUP - Includes tail lights, left and right turn signals, brake lights, and fuel sender.
PRE-INSTALLATION SETUP OPTIONS:
•
Turn Signal Switch: If you are using an external/clamp-on style turn signal switch with an indicator light, you’ll usually require a 3-pin flasher. This will allow the onboard indicator lights of the switch to function properly. In order to integrate a new, 3-pin flasher into the system you must bypass the 2-pin flasher of the Painless harness. The flashers do not come pre-installed on the fuse block but rather are found in your parts kit. Therefore, do not install the turn signal flasher. Then, on the wire side of the fuse block unpin the PURPLE wires leading to the flasher and splice them together. Additional information on connection your 3-pin flasher can be found on page 72 .
•
Ignition Coil/ Control Box: If you use an aftermarket ignition box, such as an MSD,
Accel, etc., the PINK #920 wire may need to be pulled from the Engine Section and routed to where the box is mounted.
•
Choke : RED #954 found in the Engine Section can also be pulled back to the fuse block if you have a mechanical choke or if you are running fuel injection. As previously stated, Painless does not recommend removing any power wires from the fuse block as they can possibly be used to power other things.
15
FIREWALL PASS-THRU
Decide how Headlight Section, Engine Sections, and possibly the Tail Section bundle of wires will be routed into the engine compartment.
•
If you have existing holes in your firewall, these wires can pass through them. Any hole with wires passing through them absolutely MUST have a grommet installed.
•
The wires of this Painless harness will require a
1” bore/opening in the grommet. If you need to enlarge a pre-existing hole, you can make use of the grommet provided with this kit, and enlarge your pre-existing hole to 1¼” .
•
If you do not have a hole, one will need to be created. Using a hole saw, drill a 1
¼” hole
. This will to accommodate this grommet provided in this kit. Once a hole has been drilled, install the provided grommet. Wires will be passed through this grommet after the fuse block has been mounted.
FUSE BLOCK MOUNTING
To begin mounting the fuse block, find a suitable location with easy access in the event that a fuse needs to be replaced. Most of the time, the vehicle’s original fuse block location is ideal.
This fuse block must be mounted inside the vehicle as it is not suitable for wet conditions.
•
After the fuse block is mounted, install the two supplied flashers from the parts kit.
FIREWALL MOUNTING:
•
You will first want to locate and mark your four fuse block mounting holes.
•
Once marked, and you are sure you have chosen the most suitable location for your fuse block, use a
¼” drill bit to create holes for the four bolts provided to mount the fuse block.
•
Install the bolts through the firewall and through the fuse block. Install the flat washers and nuts provided in the parts kit; this requires the use of a 7 ∕
16
” socket or wrench . A helper with a flat head screwdriver is needed to keep the bolts from turning while the mounting nuts are tightened.
16
HARNESS ROUTING
Loosely route all of the wire groups to their designated connection points. NO
CONNECTIONS OR CUTTING WILL TAKE PLACE AT THIS TIME. Harness routing is and should be a time-consuming task. Taking your time will enhance the appearance and quality of the installation. Please be patient and TAKE YOUR TIME.
REMEMBER
TO ROUTE THE HARNESS AWAY FROM SHARP EDGES, EXHAUST PIPES, HOOD,
TRUNK AND DOOR HINGES, ETC.
WHILE ROUTING WIRES: If you are to go through an inner fender well, core support, or any other metal pass-through YOU MUST
INSTALL A RUBBER GROMMET.
•
Route the Headlight Section down the inner driver side fender to the core support.
In some cases, you can route this section inside the fender and over the wheel well to help hide the wires to keep the install clean. Loom will need to be added to the harness prior to routing the harness over the wheel well.
•
If you are using a charge indicator light, route the WHITE #914 wire in the Engine
Section with the RED /BLACK #935 wire toward the instrument panel.
•
GREY / WHITE #906 in Acc. Section B+ will provide an accessory relay, like a cooling fan relay, a switched ignition 12v activation source. THIS IS NOT A POWER SOURCE
FOR THE RELAY, ONLY AN ACTIVATION SOURCE. If a relay is to be mounted on the core support, make certain to route one end of this wire to that location.
•
Once at the core support, isolate the wires for the left-hand side and right-hand side lights. The BROWN #927 (park/marker lights), LT. GREEN #908 (high beam), and
TAN #909 (low beam) wire bundles can be found in the Headlight Switch Section and Dimmer Switch Section bags. o Each bundle consists of several wires spliced together. The BROWN #927 , LT.
GREEN #908, and TAN #909 will have different lengths, a longer and a shorter, with the short wires obviously running to the first group of lights you come to. o Take notice at this time to the GREEN #924 horn wire, and where the horn(s) are located. Route the wires for the other side lights across the core support to the other side of the vehicle. On most vehicles, the radiator hold-down will usually need to be removed to allow access to the channel that runs along the top of most core supports where factory wiring was once run. This routing of the front light section makes good use of the supplied zip ties. The other wires in these splices will lead to the headlight switch ( BROWN #927 ), dimmer switch ( LT. GREEN #908 & TAN
#909 ), and high beam indicator ( GREEN #936 ).
•
Route the Engine Section and Start/Charge Section towards the center of the firewall. Routing of the individual wires will be easier to accomplish during the time of their specific connections.
•
Locate the WHITE #918 & ORANGE #917 wires in the Engine Section (the WHITE
#918 is spliced to the WHITE #918 wire that leads to the turn signal). If you have a hydraulic brake switch installed at the master cylinder or on a brake line, the brake
17
switch wires can be routed to the engine compartment with the Engine Section . If you have a pedal mounted switch, the brake switch wires will need to be re-routed to the Turn Signal Section since the brake switch is close to the turn signal switch connection.
ON THE INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE:
•
Route the wires intended for dash-mounted components/switches towards their connection points on the dash at this time. Pay attention to the Accessory
Sections as both of these bundles contain wires that can/will be routed to different places.
•
Temp Light : Locate the Instrument Panel Section . Vehicles with a factory engine temperature indicator light, instead of an actual gauge, may notice a tab on the ignition switch labeled “GND” or ground. This will send a ground source to the light when the ignition switch is in the “START” position. This will illuminate the light, letting the operator know the light is functioning. When the key is returned to the
“ON/RUN” position, the switch no longer provides ground and the light goes out.
To connect this Indicator light so it functions in this manner, either run the LT.
GREEN #921 from the temp sender to the ignition switch and from the ignition switch to the light or from the temp sender to the light and from the light to the ignition switch. See page 80
– 81 for examples.
•
Route the Tail Section group of wires either through the interior of the vehicle to the rear or through the firewall and underneath the vehicle.
OR
•
In trucks and some cars, you will run the tail section wiring through the firewall grommet and underneath the vehicle along the frame rail. If you route the Tail
Section down the frame under the vehicle, it is especially important to cover the wire with some sort of wiring loom
•
Always ensure wires are not exposed or routed too close to high heat locations, such as the exhaust.
•
At the back of the vehicle, route the wires to the left and right connections as indicated by the print found on the wires.
•
Once all the wires are routed and running to the general location of their components, you can begin making connections.
We prefer to start with the
Headlight Section and work from the front of the vehicle to the back.
When bundling wires into groups, use zip-ties, split loom, or tape.
The exposed wires in the engine compartment and wires running to the rear of the vehicle are best protected by wire loom or covering. Painless offers the Power Braid Kit part #70920 and the Classic Braid #70970 to fill this need.
These kits include everything you will need to properly protect your new chassis harness.
18
HEADLIGHT SECTION
The Headlight Section of this Painless Harness includes all the power wires needed to properly hook up both driver and passenger side headlights, front turn signal lights, and park/marker lights. There is also a power wire from the fuse block mounted horn relay to power the horn(s). All wires in the Headlight Section can be seen in the
Headlight Section Schematic on page 28 .
Ground wires will need to be provided for both front turn signals. Ground for the headlights can be sourced through the wire on the provided pigtails.
If halogen bulbs are being used, a separate headlight relay kit MUST be used.
Due to the higher amperage demands of halogen lights, these lights will cause the circuit breaker in the headlight switch to fail. A headlight relay harness provides battery power through the relays directly to the headlight bulbs. The headlight switch will activate the relays, thus drawing only 1 amp of current. This is beneficial for both the longevity of the headlight switch and the brightness of headlight bulbs themselves. Painless offers part
# 30814 for dual/quad headlights and # 30815 for single headlight vehicles.
LEFT / DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT
Your first connection in Headlight Section will be the Left/Driver Side Headlight.
Two wires are provided for connection to the Left Headlight, they are:
LT. GREEN : 16-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #908 > TO HEADLIGHT
HIGH BEAM > ; this wire provides power to the high beam filament of the headlamp.
This wire runs from the dimmer switch and has power when the dimmer switch is in the high beam position and the headlight switch is in the headlight ON position.
TAN : 16-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #909 > TO HEADLIGHT LOW
BEAM > ; this wire provides power to the low beam filament of the headlamp. This wire runs from the dimmer switch and has power when the dimmer switch is in the low beam position and the headlight switch is in the headlight ON position.
The connection of these wires will depend on the style headlights you are using in your application…
19
3 prong, Sealed Beam/Sealed Beam Halogen/H4 Halogen
Pre-terminated connectors (shown in the image below) have been provided in the parts kit to allow proper connection to these style headlights.
•
Most factory headlights were grounded to the core support. If your vehicle has this grounding location, cut the pre-installed splice off the BLACK wire of the pigtail
•
Strip
¼”
of insulation from the wire and install a 3 ∕
8
” insulated ring terminal from the parts kit. This will keep you from having to run a separate ground wire to the headlamp(s). If you cannot, or do not, want to ground the headlamp(s) in this way, a ground wire must be provided by you, the installer.
•
Route the #908 & #909 wires for left/driver side headlamp connection to the back of the headlamp. Removing the headlamp may be necessary.
•
Taking the length of the pigtail wires into consideration, cut the #908 & #909 wires to length and strip
¼”
of insulation from them.
20
If your vehicle is equipped with dual/quad headlights, meaning the vehicle has a high/low beam light and also a separate high beam light on each side, as shown below, additional pigtails will need to be purchased ( Painless #80300 ). The LT. GREEN wire from one of these pigtails will also splice to the LT. GREEN #908 wire. See the diagram on page 28 for a visual reference.
•
Using a set of standard crimpers, as shown on page 4 , and matching wire colors, crimp the #908 & #909 wires onto the 3-prong headlight pigtail. Splice the ground wire at this time too if you are not grounding with a ring terminal.
•
Plug the connector onto the prongs of the headlamp. Make sure the connector is inserted straight onto the prongs as these prongs will easily bend making a proper connection difficult.
21
Headlights with Pigtails
In order to make the appropriate connections, consult the manufacturer's instructions of the headlights you are using to identify the function of each wire. If you do not have instructions or know the manufacturer of the lights on your vehicle, you can test a light using your vehicle's battery.
On units that have three wires, in almost all cases there will be a black wire, this is typically a ground, while the other two-colored wires are obviously the power for the high and low beams. Units with five or six wires also have turn/park light features.
•
Touch one of the colored wires to the positive side of the battery.
•
With the colored wire touching the positive side, touch the BLACK wire, or both
BLACK wires if your lamp also has a turn/park, to the negative side. You may see a couple of tiny sparks upon connecting to the negative side but this is normal. The light should now be on, take notice of how bright the light is.
•
Remove both wires from the battery and repeat this process with the other colored wire(s). First to the positive side, and then the ground(s) to the negative side.
•
Whichever wire on the positive side of the battery made the light(s) brighter is the high beam power wire or turn signal if your lamps have this option. Write this down in the notes section at the back of this manual for future reference.
22
In some cases, headlamps will have a GREEN , BROWN or TAN , and BLACK wire coming from them, as shown in the photo on the previous page. This is a common GM style color code meaning: BLACK = ground, BROWN or TAN = low beam, GREEN = high beam.
•
Connection of the #908 & #909 wires of the Painless harness will be made using the splices provided in the parts kit.
•
Each wire, coming from the headlight bucket as well as the Painless Harness will need to be cut to length and have
¼”
of insulation stripped from them.
•
Connect the splice to each of the 3 wires on the Painless harness.
•
Insert the wires from the headlight bucket into the splice that corresponds with the wires function:
High Beam wire to the Painless LT. GREEN wire printed #908
Low Beam wire to the Painless TAN wire printed #909
Ground wire to the installer created ground
23
LEFT PARK / SIDE MARKER LIGHT
The driver side, fender-mounted marker light is the next connection. Some vehicles may not have this light. If this is the case with your install, skip to the next section, LEFT
TURN / PARK LIGHT on page 26 . It can serve one or two purposes: One, it can work simply as a front marker/park light or two, it can work as a park light as well as a turn signal. Both functions are dependent on how you wire the lamp socket.
The park light feature is activated by a power source coming from the headlight switch. This light illuminates any time the headlight switch is in the “PARK” or “ON” position. The turn signal feature is provided by a power source coming from the turn signal switch.
The left side marker requires two wires to work properly; the way you want the light to function determines if both wires need to connect to the park/marker light. These wires are:
BROWN : 18-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #927 > TO FRONT PARK
LIGHTS > this is a power wire for the park and marker light function. This #927 is spliced to the other #927 wire in the Headlight Section . This wire has power anytime the headlight switch is in the Park/Tail Lights ON or Headlights ON position.
LT. BLUE : 18-gauge wire, [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #926 > TO LEFT FRONT TURN
SIGNAL > , this wire is the power for the turn signal function. This wire comes from the turn signal switch and has interrupted switched power from the turn flasher anytime the left turn signal is activated. It also receives interrupted battery power from the hazard flasher anytime the hazard switch is in the ON position.
•
Most vehicles will need to use an installer sourced light socket like the one seen below.
These can either be cut from your factory harness or purchased from most auto supply stores using part #PT60 or #S74 . These sockets use a wedge base #194 bulb,
•
Looking at the backside of the marker lamp housing, you will see that it has a keyed opening to correspond with the tabs on the socket (as seen in the photo). Temporarily install the socket into the marker light assembly
24
25
•
Route the BROWN #927 wire to one of the wires of the socket and cut the #927 to length; save the cut off piece of #927 . It does not matter which wire on the socket the #927 connects to.
•
If you do not want the park/side marker lights to also work as turn signals, connect the other wire from the socket to a chassis ground source. If you are using a new socket, it may already have a ring terminal preinstalled.
•
For the park/marker light to also work as a turn signal, route the LT. BLUE #926 wire to the other wire of the socket and cut the #926 to length, save the cutoff piece of
#926 .
•
Using splices from the parts kit, connect the #926 and #927 wires to the lamp socket.
Double up with the cut off pieces to allow connection to the front turn/park light as shown in the diagram below.
If you are connecting the #926 turn signal wire to the park/side marker light, you will notice that there are no means for a direct ground to be applied to the light. This is because the path to ground will travel from this park/side marker socket to the front turn signal socket, through either one of the wires, and ground through the front turn/park light.
The front turn/park signal socket is a higher wattage bulb. So, when the ground passes through that bulb it will not cause the front lamp to illuminate since it has a greater power requirement than the park/side marker light.
LEFT TURN / PARK LIGHT
The Left Turn/Park Light of the Painless harness consists of 2 wires. These wires are:
BROWN : 18-gauge wires, printed [HEADLIGHT
SECTION] #927 > TO FRONT PARK LIGHTS > , this wire provides power to the park lights. This wire splices to a single BROWN wire leading to the headlight switch. This wire has power anytime the headlight switch is in the Park/Tail Lights ON position.
LT. BLUE : 18-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #926 > TO LEFT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL > , this wire is the turn signal power. This wire has interrupted switched power from the turn signal flasher any time the left turn signal is activated and the ignition is in the ON position. It also receives interrupted battery power from the hazard flasher any time the hazard switch is in the ON position.
If your turn signal has a dual filament bulb and only 2 wires, you do not need to connect a separate ground wire. Your light socket grounds through the mounting of the lens/bucket. If your vehicle has been freshly painted, you will need to clean the paint from the mounting surface of the light housing. The use of a small star washer on the mounting screws can ensure your light housing is grounded properly.
If you find that your turn signal requires a ground wire, this connection must be sourced by you, the installed.
If your light has a single filament bulb, your light will only act as a turn signal, because the #927 wires will not have a connection point. Check your local laws to see if front park lights are required; you could be in violation of the law without them. If you can run without the front park lights, the #927 wires, along with the single wire going to the headlight switch they splice to, can be removed from the Painless harness.
•
In some cases, your turn signal will have wires hard wired to the light and exiting the turn signal assembly; usually into a connector of some sort. Remove this connector and use the blue insulated pin/socket terminals to connect the #926 & #927 wires to the turn signal.
•
For those with a turn signal that requires a light socket, either cut the socket from your old harness or contact your favorite auto parts supplier for a new one. Many of these light sockets can be purchased as a pigtail. Splices have been provided to connect the #926 & #927 wires to the turn signal pigtails
•
Route the wires needed for installation to the turn signal. Cut the wires to length and strip ¼” of insulation from all wires.
26
HORN
The Headlight Section has a single wire dedicated to connecting to a horn. * Most horns ground through their mounting and only require a power connection. This wire is:
GREEN : 14-gauge wire, printed
[HEADLIGHT SECTION] #924 > TO
HORN > , this is a power wire that comes from the fuse block mounted horn relay. It is ground activated by the horn button on the steering column, and only has power when the horn button is pressed.
•
Route the #924 wire to the horn and cut to length. If you pass this wire through any metal surfaces, you will find small grommets in the parts kit to protect the wire. If you have two horns, save the cutoff portion of
#924 .
•
If you have a tab on the horn, insulated “spade” style terminals have been provided in the parts kit.
#10 ring terminals have been provided for those with “screw” or “post & nut” connections. If your horn has a wire to connect to, then a splice from the parts kit will work for this connection
•
Strip ¼” of insulation from the #924 wire and crimp the appropriate terminal onto the wire. If you have more than one horn, strip
¼”
wire from the cutoff piece of #924 and double the cutoff piece of #924 to the #924 coming from the relay. A terminal to connect this wire to the horn will need to be sourced by the installer, doubled up 14gauge wires will require a 10-gauge terminal .
•
If your horn requires a ground wire, it will need to be provided by the installer.
27
RIGHT TURN / PARK LIGHT & HEADLIGHT
The connections on the right/passenger side of the vehicle all connect in the same manner as those on the left/driver ’s side. The only difference you will find is the turn signal wire for the right turn signal is a different color than the one used for the left turn signal.
The right turn signal will be:
BLUE : 18-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #925 > TO RIGHT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL > , this wire is the turn signal power and goes to the turn signal switch.
This wire has interrupted switched power from the turn signal flasher any time the right turn signal is activated and the ignition is in the ON position. It also receives interrupted battery power from the hazard flasher any time the hazard switch is in the ON position.
28
29
ENGINE SECTION
Engine Section consists of seven wires, some of which may or may not have already been re-routed to other places in the vehicle. These wires connect to the oil pressure and coolant temperature sending units for gauges or lights, the coil or ignition system, and an electric choke on a carburetor. There are also wires for those with hydraulic brake switches. If you routed the brake switch wires of your harness inside the vehicle because you have a pedal mounted switch, your brake switch instructions will follow later in the manual. Locations of all of these components will vary from vehicle to vehicle, so no specific routing instructions can be given.
All wires of the Engine Section have ample length to account for the numerous way components can be mounted inside an engine compartment. For example, an ignition box mounted on the inner fender requires more length of wire than a firewall mounted coil.
BRAKE SWITCH (Hydraulic)
The location of the brake switch will vary from vehicle to vehicle as this connection depends on the style switch your vehicle uses.
Hydraulic switches, like Painless #80171 (shown), will be mounted in the engine compartment usually near or on the master cylinder. A mechanical switch, like Painless
#80172 (2-pin) or #80176 (4-pin) , also included in our torque converter lockup kits
#60109 & #60110 ), will be mounted on or near the pivot point of the brake pedal.
There are two wires found in the Painless chassis harness for proper Brake Switch connection, they are:
ORANGE : 14-gauge wire, printed [ENGINE SECTION] #917 >TO BRAKE SWITCH
(POWER B+) > , which provides power from a 15-amp fuse on the fuse block. This wire will have power at all times.
WHITE : 16-gauge wire, printed [ENGINE SECTION] #918 > BRAKE SWITCH OUTPUT
> . This wire supplies power from the brake switch to the brake lights. This wire goes into a splice with two other wires. This splice can be seen in the Engine Section
Schematic above.
•
Route the brake switch wires to the brake switch and connect using the loose piece insulated terminals provided in the parts kit.
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR
LT. GREEN : 18-gauge wire, printed < TO TEMP SENDER
[ENGINE SECTION] < #921 > TO TEMP GAUGE
[INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] > , this wire sends a resistive ground signal to the engine coolant temp gauge. If you are using an aftermarket mechanical gauge, this wire is not needed. See the Engine Section
Schematic above.
The coolant temp sending unit or temp switch can be mounted in the intake manifold or in the side of either cylinder head. These will have a peg, tab, or threaded post to connect to, as seen in the photos on this page. Terminals have been provided for those with the style of sensor seen below. Your factory notched connector will need to be re-used; rollover crimpers will be needed to properly install this terminal.
Two-wire sending units found on vehicles with indicator light clusters, meaning there is no temp gauge only a temp light, usually require a chassis ground source on one side of the sending unit. Trace your factory harness or better yet, consult a wiring diagram from your year/make/model vehicle to see what your requirements are.
30
Two-wire temperature sensors on fuel injected engines are for engine computer input, not for gauge signal.
Also, if connecting to an engine in a vehicle that has electric cooling fans, make certain you know the difference between the coolant temp sensor and the electric fan thermostatic switch; both of these sensors can look identical.
If you are installing a new temp sensor, or are unsure of the temp sensor currently mounted in your engine, make sure there is no sealant tape on the sensor threads. The tape can interfere with the ground source the sensor needs to read correctly. Anti-seize works well on the threads.
•
Route this LT. GREEN #921 wire to the coolant temp sensor, cut to length, strip ¼” insulation, and crimp on the appropriate terminal for your connection, and connect.
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
LT. BLUE /BLACK : 18-gauge wire, printed < TO
OIL SENDER [ENGINE SECTION] < #922 > TO
OIL GAUGE [INSTRUMENT PANEL
SECTION] > , this wire sends a ground signal to the oil pressure gauge. If you are using a mechanical pressure gauge, this wire is not needed. See the Engine Section Schematic on page 29 .
The oil pressure sending unit will generally be located near the oil filter or on the back of the block behind the intake manifold.
•
Route this LT. BLUE /BLACK #922 wire to the oil pressure sending unit, crimp-on the appropriate terminal for your connection, and connect.
Terminals have been provided for those with the style of sensor seen above. Your factory notched connector will need to be re-used; rollover crimpers will be needed to properly install this terminal.
Two-wire sending units found on vehicles with indicator light clusters, meaning there is no oil gauge only an oil light, usually require a chassis ground source on one side of the sending unit. Trace your factory harness or better yet, consult a wiring diagram from your year/make/model vehicle to see what your requirements are.
If you have a 2-wire sensor on a newer, fuel-injected, donor engine, it will not work for your pressure gauge. Two-wire sensors on fuel injected engines are for fuel pump control and are not designed for oil pressure gauge readings. These types of sensors are generally found on GM TBI and TPI engines.
31
ELECTRIC CHOKE
RED : 18-gauge wire, printed
[ENGINE SECTION] #954 > TO ELECTRIC
CHOKE > , this wire provides a switched ignition power source to the choke from a 10amp fuse on the fuse block. It has power when the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position.
When you turn your key to the
“ON/RUN” position, the voltage this wire carries heats the bi-metal spring called the
“choke thermostat.” This spring will unravel as it is heated causing the choke to slowly open. When the ignition is turned to the “OFF” position, power is no longer on this wire, causing the spring to begin to cool and contract, closing the choke.
•
If you do not have an electric choke, you do not need this wire and it can be capped off and stowed. If you are using a Turbo 400 transmission, see the instructions on the following page before terminating the #954 wire.
•
Route the RED #954 wire to the + terminal of the electric choke, install the supplied terminal and connector and connect. If you are using a Turbo 400 transmission, and a throttle switch is in the engine compartment, see the instructions on the following page before terminating the #954 wire.
•
Double up the cut off piece of #954 at the choke to provide power to the Turbo 400 kick down throttle switch.
•
Ensure the choke is properly grounded (the ground wire is not supplied in the Painless harness) before continuing with the installation. This is normally provided with the carburetor.
32
Turbo 400 Transmission
33
The Turbo 400 transmission requires a 12v power source to downshift the transmission under wide-open throttle. This is done through the use of a throttle switch either located on the accelerator pedal inside the vehicle or on the throttle linkage on top of the engine.
•
Double up the cut off piece of #954 at the choke. Route this cutoff piece of #954 to one side of the throttle switch and cut to length. Use terminals from the parts kit to connect the wire.
•
If you have a factory, accelerator pedal mounted switch, you can use a switched power source inside the vehicle or you can route the cutoff piece of #954 to the interior, connect at the throttle switch, and then route it back out to the transmission.
COIL
A single wire, coming from the fuse block, supplies power to the coil/ignition system. The connection of this wire varies depending on what ignition system (factory or aftermarket) you use. The wire needed to supply a switched ignition power source is:
PINK : 14-gauge wire, printed [ENGINE SECTION] #920 COIL + (IGN POWER) ; this wire comes from a 15-amp fuse on the fuse block. This wire has power anytime the ignition switch is in the ON and START positions. This wire provides the coil/ignition system with switched power in 1 of 4 ways:
•
If the Coil you are using is not internally resisted, a ballast resistor, along with the installer provided bypass wire shown on page 36 , will be required. If a coil is not internally resisted and a ballast resistor is not used, the coil will overheat within a few minutes to the point that it will no longer work. A ballast resistor can be obtained at your local parts store using part number
RU11 . See the Ballast Resistor
Connection Diagram on page 36 .
•
HEI coils, internally resisted coils, and aftermarket ignition boxes do not require the use of a ballast resistor. The #920 wire connects directly to the + side of the coil. See the
•
If you use an aftermarket ignition box, such as an MSD, Accel, etc., this PINK #920 wire will supply the ignition box with the switched power source it requires. This wire goes to the aftermarket ignition box and not the Coil; the ignition box will provide the
Coil + connection. This #920 wire may need to be pulled from the Engine Section and routed to where the box is mounted. See the i gnition box manufacturer’s instructions for a specific connection point of this power source. MSD Ignition
Connection on page 37 has been provided.
•
If you have converted to fuel injection, are using a standalone harness, such as a
Painless fuel injection harness, and coil power is supplied through the fuel injection harness, in LT1/LS1 and newer applications, this PINK #920 wire provides the fuel injection harness with the switched power source the harness requires. If you use a
Painless fuel injection harness, this PINK #920 wire will connect to the open-ended
PINK wire of the fuel injection harness labeled “IGN” or “Fuse Block IGN.”
•
Route this PINK #920 wire to its proper connection point and cut to length, install the appropriate terminal for your connection, and connect.
34
Tachometer
PURPLE / WHITE : 18-gauge wire, printed < COIL (-) [ENGINE SECTION] < #923 >
TACHOMETER [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] > , this wire sends a tachometer signal from the coil to the gauge cluster. This wire only needs to be connected if you are using a tachometer (factory or aftermarket). See the Engine Section Schematic on page 29 . If you do not have a tachometer, this wire may be removed from the harness. Depending on your ignition system (factory or aftermarket), or use of fuel injection, the connection of this #923 wire can vary:
•
Standard factory type installs with an HEI distributor, or external coil ignition systems, require the #923 wire to be connected to the negative (-) side of the coil. Refer to the diagrams on pages 36 – 37 for proper connection.
•
If you are running fuel injection and the tach output wire of the fuel injection harness does not reach the tachometer, this #923 wire will connect to the tach output wire from the ECM.
•
If an aftermarket ignition box is being used, such as an MSD, Accel, etc., this #923 wire will connect to the tach output found on the ignition box. Refer to the MSD Ignition
Connection on page 37 and to the ignition manufacturer’s installation procedure.
•
Route this # 923 tach signal wire to its proper connection point and cut to length, install the appropriate terminal for your connection, and connect.
35
Use one of the following four diagrams to properly connect the coil power ( #920 )
945and tachometer ( #923 ). Not shown in the diagrams are the wire(s) connecting the coil and the distributor, these are not included.
36
37
START/CHARGE SECTION
The Start/Charge Section consists of four wires for connections to the alternator, starter solenoid, and inline MIDI fuse (included with the kit). Locations of all of these components vary from vehicle to vehicle so no specific routing instructions can be given.
38
ALTERNATOR
The alternator connections vary depending on the alternator your vehicle currently has installed. The alternator may also need to be removed in order to gain access to the connection points. This harness will only support alternators outputting 100 amps of less.
Alternators with an output of more than 100 amps will also require the use of Painless part 30700 with this harness.
The one connection all alternators have in common is the output post. This wire sends power from the alternator to the battery, it is:
RED : 10-gauge wire, printed, [START/CHARGE SECTION] #915 > TO ALTERNATOR
OUTPUT POST >, this wire provides power out of the alternator to the fuse block and from the fuse block to the battery. See Charge/Battery Power Schematic on page 38.
•
Connect this wire to the B+/Output stud on the alternator using an insulated ring terminal provided in the kit.
CAUTION: IF USING AN ALTERNATOR WITH AN OUTPUT LARGER THAN
65 AMPS AND NOT EXCEEDING 100 AMPS, YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO
USE THE RED #960 JUMPER WIRE INCLUDED IN KIT.
RED : 10-gauge wire, printed, ALTERNATOR TO BATTERY
SOURCE #960, this wire provides power out of the alternator to the MIDI fuse. This wire is not part of the harness but is a separate, rolled piece of wire provided with the kit. This wire is only needed if you are using an alternator larger than 65 amps.
See Charge/Battery Power Schematic on page 38.
•
The wire end with the ring terminal and rubber boot will connect to the alternator output lug. Route the other end to the MIDI fuse holder. Cut the wire and crimp on a ring terminal. The other side of the MIDI fuse holder will be covered on page 53 .
If your vehicle has an aftermarket,
ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR
, meaning it does not require a switched 12v source or regulator connections, or if the
Painless or other aftermarket fuel injection harness you are using has an alternator connector, then this output wire is the only wire used in this section at the alternator.
Locate the wire intended for alternator regulator connection; it is:
WHITE : 14-gauge wire, printed
[START/CHARGE SECTION] #914 > ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER > , this is the indicator light wire and has switched ignition power from the fuse block. This wire will not be needed if you have a one-wire alternator.
If you have a one wire alternator, and only if you have a one wire alternator, you need to insulate the end of this wire and stow it in the harness, IT IS A POWER WIRE .
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CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT
Those wanting to add a charge indicator light will need to re-route the WHITE #914 wire found in the Start/Charge Section of wires. This wire will be connected to the light and then out the other side of the light to the alternator voltage regulator. The way the light will function is this:
Electrical current moving from the fuse block, through the filament, and out to the alternator causes the light to illuminate. This light illuminates when the key is in the
ON/RUN position and the alternator is not charging because the engine is not running or when the alternator is not working properly. Once the alternator is charging, the voltage regulator no longer needs the switched ignition voltage supplied by the #914 wire, which stops the current flow. Since power is no longer flowing through the filament, the bulb does not illuminate.
If you are using a one-wire alternator, a charge indicator light cannot be installed since you do not have an alternator exciter wire going to the regulator.
•
Connect the WHITE #914 wire to one side of the light; the remainder of #914 connects to the other side of the light to provide power out to the voltage regulator . See the diagram below.
It is also recommended, but not necessary, to wire in a 15-ohm, 2-watt resistor between the power in and power out, as seen in the diagram below. This provides enough power to the voltage regulator to allow the alternator to still charge in the event the bulb burns out. This resistor can be found through online, electronic component suppliers such as
Mouser or Allied Electronics under part
# OY150KE .
The remaining alternator connections vary based on which alternator is being used. Choose the alternator that best represents the alternator found on your vehicle from those on the next few pages. Then, follow the instructions provided for your particular alternator.
40
GM SI SERIES ALTERNATORS
The 10-SI and 12-SI alternators are easy to identify. They have an external fan behind the pulley (the 12-SI has enclosed style fan blades) and a 2-pin connection. This
2-pin connection is circled on the second example in the image above. These are also commonly referred to as “Delco” or “Delcotron” alternators.
The two wires, WHITE #914 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER and an installer supplied jumper from the alternator post, connect to the two posts on the back edge of the alternator.
•
Route the two wires to the numbered 1 & 2 terminals on the alternator and cut to length. Strip ¼” of insulation from both wires.
•
A factory-style connector and terminals, seen in the photo to the right, are provided in the parts kit. Crimp a terminal onto each of the two wires.
•
Insert the wires into the connector as shown in the diagram below. When the terminal pin-out is complete, plug the connector into the alternator.
You may experience engine run on. This is caused when the alternator back feeds voltage down the #914 wire after the key has been turned off. This allows the ignition system to still function causing the engine to continue running even though the key is turned off or even removed from the ignition. If this should happen, unplug the alternator connector to shut the engine off. If you experience this, a remedy has been provided.
As shown in the photo above and the diagram below, a diode, splices and heat shrink can be used if engine run-on occurs. Simply install the diode as shown. When the diode is installed inline of the #914 wire with the stripe towards the alternator it lets current flow towards the alternator, but not away from the alternator back-feeding the ignition system, thus fixing the run-on issue.
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GM CS-130 SERIES ALTERNATORS
The CS-130, CS-121, and CS-144 alternators closely resemble the SI series alternators. They have an external fan behind the pulley and, generally, a plastic casing on the side and back. These alternators have a 4-pin, sealed connector, shown in the photo below and circled in the image above. The regulator will be marked P, L, S, F. This type of alternator was used on GM TPI and LT1 fuel injected engines among other late
1980s to mid1990’s GM vehicles.
The two wires, WHITE #914 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER and an installer supplied jumper from the alternator post, connect to the regulator on the back of the alternator.
•
Route the two wires to the connector on the alternator and cut to length. Strip ¼” of insulation from both wires.
•
The factory 4-pin alternator connector from a factory GM harness is needed (seen to the right). It is not included with this
Painless chassis harness.
•
The CS-130 alternator requires a resistance on the WHITE #914 wire. Without this resistance, the regulator on the alternator will burn up. A resistor, splices, and heat shrink, seen below, are required. The resistor* will simply need to be installed inline on the #914 wire as shown in the diagram on the next page.
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* In factory applications where this alternator was used, a charge indicator light created the necessary resistance. For those with an instrument panel with a charge indicator light, the resistor is not needed . However, the #914 wire needs to be routed to one side of the charge indicator light and the other side of the light then routes out to the alternator. A charge indicator light was explained in more detail on page 40 .
•
Use two splices and heat shrink to splice the CS-130 pigtail to the #914 with a resistor.
The RED wire from the pigtail can be connected directly to the alternator post.
GM CS-130D SERIES ALTERNATORS
The CS-130D can be spotted by the lack of an external fan behind the pulley.
These alternators have an internal fan and a plastic casing on the back. These alternators have an elongated, oval, 4-pin, sealed connector, seen circled in the image above. The regulator will be marked P, L, I, S. This type of alternator was used on many engines, including the GM LS series, Vortec, and Gen. III Vortec truck fuel injected engines.
The WHITE #914 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER connects to the regulator on the back of the alternator.
•
Route the WHITE #914 to the connector on the alternator and cut to length. Strip
¼”
of insulation.
•
The factory, 4-pin alternator connector from a factory
GM harness or a CS-130D pigtail purchased from
Painless (part #30705 ; see photo), needs to be used.
•
The CS-130D alternator requires a switched power source to pin “I” of the regulator and a resisted power source on the wire going to pin “L” of the regulator.
Without this resistance, the regulator on the alternator will burn up. A resistor, splices, and heat shrink will be needed. The resistor simply needs to be installed inline on the pin “L” wire, #914 , as shown in the diagrams on the next page.
In factory applications where this alternator was used, a charge indicator light created the necessary resistance. For those with an instrument panel with a charge indicator light, the resistor is not needed . However, the #914 wire needs to be routed to one side of the charge indicator light and the other side of the light then routes out to the alternator. A charge indicator light was explained in more detail on page 40 .
•
Splice the CS-130D pigtail to the WHITE #914 wire according to one of the diagrams on the next page.
Both diagrams accomplish the same task: they use the WHITE #914
ALTERNATOR REGULATOR POWER (IGN) wire to provide a switched power source and a resisted power source to the 2 wires of a CS-130D alternator pigtail/connector when a charge indicator light is NOT being used. Pick the method that easiest for you to understand.
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45
GM EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATORS
The WHITE #914 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER connects to the regulator on the back of the alternator.
•
Route the WHITE #914 wire of the Painless harness to the connection point on the regulator, cut to length, and strip ¼” of insulation from the wire.
•
The factory, 2-pin alternator connector and 4-pin regulator connector from a factory
GM harness need to be used. Due to a lack of usage by most customers, these connectors are not included with this Painless chassis harness. If you do not have these connectors, they can be obtained online, at a local auto parts store, or you can use the loose piece insulated terminals in the parts kit to make connections.
•
Connect the WHITE #914 wire to the “4” terminal on the regulator.
Three 14-gauge wires, which run from the regulator to the alternator, and a 14gauge wire for a ground need to be provided by the installer to finish the connections.
These wires are not in the Painless harness .
• Connect the “3” terminal on the regulator to the alternator post. This was a red wire from the factory.
• Connect the “2” terminal on the regulator to the “R” terminal on the alternator. This was a white wire from the factory.
• Connect the “F” terminal on the regulator to the “F” terminal on the alternator. This was a blue wire from the factory.
• The last connection will be connecting a wire from the “G” post on the alternator to a chassis ground source.
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FORD EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATORS
Note: Your Alternator may not appear exactly as represented above. However, the circuits are wired in the same manner.
•
Route the WHITE #914 wire of the Painless harness to the connection point on the regulator, cut to length, and strip
¼”
of insulation from the wire.
•
The 4-pin regulator connector from a factory harness will need to be used. Due to a lack of usage by most customers, these connectors are not included with this Painless chassis harness. If you do not have these connectors they can be obtained online, at a local auto parts store, or you can use the loose piece insulated terminals in the parts kit to make connections.
•
The two methods to power the regulator depicted in the diagrams above are explained on the next page. The difference in the diagrams is where the #914 wire connects, which in turn, will decide how many wires run from the regulator to the alternator.
Please be advised that a charge indicator light will only work if the regulator is wired according to Method 1.
Method #1:
•
Connect WHITE #914 wire to the Voltage Regulator “l” terminal.
•
Connect a 14-gauge wire from the Voltage Regulator
“A” terminal to the Alternator post.
•
Connect a 14-gauge wire from the Voltage Regulator
“S” terminal to the Alternator
Stator (S) terminal.
•
Connect a 14-gauge wire from the Voltage Regulator “F” terminal to the Alternator
Field (F) terminal.
•
The Alternator case must be clean, and free from corrosion where it contacts the block. An additional connection from the ground stud on the rear of the alternator to the engine ground is highly recommended.
Method #2: An alternate (and less-used) method is to omit the Alternator Stator wire:
•
Connect WHITE #914 wire to the Voltage Regulator “S” terminal. Since the #914 is on the “S” terminal of the regulator, “S” or stator post on the alternator will not be connected.
•
Connect a 14-gauge wire from the Voltage Regulator “A” terminal to the Alternator post.
•
Connect a 14-gauge wire from the Voltage Regulator
“F” terminal to the Alternator
Field (F) terminal.
•
The Voltage Regulator Ignition (l) terminal is not connected.
•
The Alternator case must be clean, and free from corrosion where it contacts the block. An additional connection from the ground stud on the rear of the alternator to the engine ground is highly recommended.
NOTE: The base of the Voltage Regulator MUST be grounded in order for it to function correctly.
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49
FORD 3G ALTERNATOR
The WHITE #914 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER connects to the pigtails on the back of the alternator.
There are two connectors, a D-shaped, 3-pin and a single pin (circled in the image above), from the factory Ford harness that need to be used. Also, the installer will need to supply an inline fuse with a rating of 125 amps or more for this alternator. Due to a lack of usage by most customers, these connectors and fuse are not included with this Painless chassis harness. If you do not have these connectors and fuse, they can be obtained through Painless by purchasing our Ford 3G Alternator Harness ( p/n:
30831 ) online, at https://www.painlessperformance.com
.
•
The 3G alternator requires a switched power source to pin I of the regulator, this will be the #914 wire.
Route the WHITE #914 to the LT. GRN / RED wire of the “I” terminal on the regulator pigtail and cut to length. Strip
¼”
of insulation.
•
Route the RED #915 to battery post along with the YLW wire of the “A” Terminal on the regulator pigtail.
•
Using a splice and heat shrink provided, splice the 3G harness to the WHITE #914 wire according to the diagram on the above.
The 2G and 4G alternators wire up in the same manner as the 3G in regards to the “I” and “A” terminals on the regulator.
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51
MOPAR EXTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATOR
Mopar uses one of two kinds of voltage regulators: An electronic regulator and a mechanical one.
Mechanical Regulator
The mechanical regulators, pre1970, will have two posts marked “IGN” and “FLD”.
One post will exit one side of the regulator, while the other post will exit the other side.
This regulator will use an alternator that has a single field terminal, as shown below.
•
The WHITE #914 wire is connected to the “IGN” terminal of the regulator.
• The “FLD” terminal of the regulator is connected to the field terminal of the alternator.
The #914 wire left from the first connection should have sufficient length for this.
Electrical Regulator
The electrical regulators, 1970+, will also have two posts marked “IGN” and “FLD”, but both posts will be found on top of the regulator and will require a connector. This regulator will use an alternator that has two field terminals, as shown in the diagram above.
The factory, 2-wire regulator connector from the harness needs to be used. Due to a lack of usage by most customers, these connectors are not included with this Painless chassis harness. If you do not have these connectors, they can be obtained online, at a local auto parts store.
•
Plug the connector into the voltage regulator.
•
Then, route the WHITE #914 wire to the BLUE factory wire running from the “IGN” terminal on the regulator connector. Cut to length and strip ¼” of insulation.
•
Splice the BLUE factory wire and the WHITE #914 wire together with the cutoff portion of the #914 wire using a butt-splice and heat shrink from the parts kit (see image above).
•
Then, route the WHITE #914 wire to one of the “FLD” tabs of the alternator. Cut to length, strip ¼” of insulation, and connect using an insulated spade terminal from the parts kit.
•
Route the GRN factory w ire from the regulator connector to the other “FLD” tab of the alternator and connect.
Finally, make sure BOTH the alternator and the voltage regulator housing are grounded.
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MIDI FUSE
A large, inline MIDI fuse is included in the Painless kit. This inline fuse provides a fused link between the alternator and battery.
•
Find a suitable location to mount the supplied fuse holder using the (2) self-tapping screws provided. A drill with a ¼” nut driver is required in order to drill holes for the mounting screws.
With the fuse holder now mounted, locate the following two wires:
RED : 10-gauge wire, printed [START/CHARGE SECTION] #916 > BATTERY POWER
SOURCE > , all power sources in this Painless harness originate from this wire. This wire provides battery power to the fuse block, which in turn supplies battery power to the ignition switch, which provides switched power. During normal operation, this wire has constant battery power at all times.
•
Route the #916 wire to one side of the fuse holder. If your alternator is a 65-100-amp alternator, then the the RED #960 wire that was connected to the alternator will connect to the same side of the fuse as the #916 wire. Cut the wires to length.
RED : 8-gauge wire, not printed, this 8-gauge wire can be found with the RED #960 in the
Painless kit. This wire will complete the connection from the MIDI fuse to the battery
“+” post or to the starter solenoid.
•
Make connections to both sides of the fuse holder with the large ring terminals with the small, #10 hole provided with the kit. A schematic showing these connections can be found on page 38 .
•
Connect the 8-gauge RED wire to the MIDI fuse holder opposite of the RED #915 wire. Then route it to the “+” side of the vehicle’s battery or to the battery post on the starter solenoid. DO NOT CONNECT THE # 8-GAUGE RED WIRE TO THE ACTUAL
BATTERY AT THIS TIME. If routed to the starter solenoid, this wire will NOT replace the battery cable needed by the starter from the positive side of the battery to the
“BAT” or (+) post of the starter solenoid.
•
Once you install the ring terminals onto both studs of the fuse holder, the fuse can be installed and everything can be tightened down with the two retaining nuts provided with the fuse holder. Once everything is tightened, the cover can be reinstalled.
Depending on how your crimp flares the ring terminal, the cover may or may not need slight trimming in order to snap into place.
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STARTER SOLENOID
The connections to the starter solenoid vary depending on your ignition system, the location of a neutral safety/clutch switch, and your connection point on the battery power source for the MIDI fuse.
One connection to the starter solenoid all vehicles share is:
PURPLE : 12-gauge wire, printed [START/CHARGE SECTION] #919 > TO STARTER
SOLENOID > , this wire will supply the solenoid with a switched power source from the ignition switch. This power will activate the starter solenoid causing it to turn the engine over for startup. This wire will only have power when the ignition switch is in the Start/Crank position.
•
Route the PURPLE #919 and the ballast bypass, if needed, to the starter solenoid and cut to length. If the 8-gauge RED wire from the MIDI fuse is being connected to the “BAT” or (+) post of the starter solenoid, it may be routed at this point as well. Be sure to keep all wires away from the exhaust manifold or header.
•
Locate ring terminal from the parts kit that best fits the posts found on the starter solenoid and install onto the wires going to the starter solenoid.
•
The PURPLE #919 wire will connect to the “START” or “S” post on the solenoid and the bypass wire, if needed, will connect to the “I” or “R” post of the solenoid.
•
If you are connecting the battery supply to the MIDI fuse to the battery cable/post on the starter, connect it now. BE SURE THE BATTERY CABLE IS DISCONNECTED
FROM THE BATTERY BEFORE MAKING THIS CONNECTION.
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55
Mopar Starter Relays
Use the following instructions and diagrams if you are wiring in a Mopar starter relay. Please be aware that if a ballast resistor is being used, you will need a relay with a ballast terminal. Locate ring terminals from the parts kit that best fit the posts/terminals found on the starter relay, crimp and connect.
•
Connect the PURPLE #919 wire to the Starter Relay Ignition (l) terminal. This will activate the relay when 12v is applied when the key is in the “START” position.
•
Connect a 14-gauge wire (not supplied) from the Starter Relay Ground (G) terminal to the center terminal of the transmission mounted Neutral Safety Switch. o Older Mopar neutral safety switches have only one terminal. On newer switches, the two outside terminals are for backup lights. Use existing wiring to connect these two terminals as shown in the diagram below.
•
If using a harness with the GM column connectors, but using the Mopar Neutral Safety
Switch, or neutral safety switch on a floor shifter, you will need to splice together the
PURPLE wires at the steering column wiring.
•
If the Neutral Safety Switch is mounted in the floor shifter, connect the Starter Relay
Ground (G) terminal to chassis ground.
• Connect the “BAT” post on the relay to a battery power source. This is easily done by connecting this post to the output/harness side of the MIDI fuse, inline on the #916 wire as shown in the diagrams above and on the following page. This post provides the power that is transferred through the relay, to the starter. o Those without a Mopar reverse switch/neutral safety switch, conn ect the “G” terminal to a clean chassis ground source using a cut off piece of 16- or 18-gauge wire from a previous connection, as shown in the SR14 Relay diagram on the next page.
56
• The terminal on the relay marked “SOL” will need to have a wire that runs from this terminal to the “S” post on the starter. This terminal on the relay provides power to the starter solenoid. The Painless harness does not have a wire dedicated for this connection, but a 12- or 14-gauge scrap wire cut from another connection of this harness will work.
•
If you are using an SR14 Relay and a ballast resistor, connect the PINK #920 wire to one end of the Ballast Resistor.
•
Then, connect the other end of the ballast resistor to the ignition coil POSITIVE (+) terminal with 14-gauge wire (you may have enough PINK #920 wire left over to accomplish this). Then run a 14-gauge wire
(not supplied) to the “BAL” terminal on the
Starter Relay
NOTES:
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INTERIOR HARNESS
Now that the Engine Sections are wired, move to the interior of the vehicle.
Before you make any connections on the inside of the vehicle, let’s address the component switches: like the headlight switch, brake switch, turn signal switch, ignition switch, and headlight dimmer switch.
With older vehicles and hot rods in general, many times switches are replaced by what’s available or what previous owners had lying around. In some cases, these switches are not marked and there is no idea what pins on the switch controls each function. If you are unsure about positions or functionality of the switches currently in your vehicle and are not really up to the task of figuring out what each pin does, Painless offers several solutions. We have switch kits and also sell switches individually.
For those wanting a dash-mounted ignition switch, a common switch kit that many people choose is Painless part #80121 . This kit provides you with a new headlight switch, new dimmer switch, door jamb switches, and ignition switch, all clearly marked with each terminal’s function. Part numbers for individual switches are given in each individual section.
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DIMMER SWITCH
The first connection is the group of three wires that belong to the Dimmer Switch
Section . These three wires provide power to the headlights for low beam and high beam power. These wires can be seen in the Headlight Dimmer Switch Schematic on page 60 .
They are:
BLUE / YELLOW : 14-gauge wire, printed < TO DIMMER SWITCH < #907 > TO
HEADLIGHT SWITCH > , this wire provides power to the dimmer switch from the headlight switch. This wire has power whenever the headlight switch is in the
“HEADLIGHT ON” position.
TAN : 14-gauge wire, printed #909 DIMMER SWITCH , this wire provides power from the dimmer switch and into a splice with two other wires. The other two wires feed power to each low beam of the headlights, as seen in the Headlight Section Schematic on page 28 . Once connected, this wire has power when the headlight switch is in the
“HEADLIGHT ON” position and the dimmer switch is in the “LOW BEAM” position.
LT. GREEN : 14-gauge wire, printed #908 DIMMER SWITCH , this wire provides power from the dimmer switch and into a splice with several other wires. The other wires feed power to each high beam of the headlights and to the high beam indicator as seen in the Headlight Section Schematic on page 28 . Once connected, this wire has power when the headlight switch is in the “HEADLIGHT ON” position and the dimmer switch is in the “HIGH BEAM” position.
The connection point of these wires depends on the location of the dimmer switch.
Most have a floor-mounted dimmer switch, although, those using a later model GM column may find the dimmer switch on the side of the column.
•
These three wires have a factory style connector and terminals (seen to the right) pre-installed.
•
Connect the three wires to the dimmer switch as shown in the diagram on the next page.
Those needing a GM style, a floormounted switch can purchase one from
Painless using Painless part #80150 .
•
If you are using a different type of dimmer switch, simply remove the connector and splice into the existing pigtail or use the insulated spade terminals to make the connections.
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60
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
The headlight switch ’s connections send power to the headlights, front park/marker lights, rear taillights, and component backlighting, such as gauges and the radio. These wires can be seen in the Headlight Switch & Dimmer Switch Schematic on the next page.
These seven wires are:
ORANGE : 14-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SWITCH SECTION] #959 > TO
HEADLIGHT SWITCH (POWER B+) > ; this wire supplies constant battery power for the park/tail lights as well as for the gauge backlighting. This wire comes from the 15amp fuse on the fuse block.
BROWN : 18-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SWITCH SECTION] #927 < TO FRONT
PARK LIGHTS < , this wire supplies power to the park lights. This wire has constant battery power any time the headlight switch knob is pulled to Park Light ON and, depending on your switch, the Headlight ON position.
BROWN : 14-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SWITCH SECTION] #929 < TO TAIL
LIGHTS < , this wire supplies power to the taillights. This wire has constant battery power any time the headlight switch knob is pulled to both the park light ON and headlight ON positions.
BROWN : 18-gauge wire, printed #930 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTING , this wire provides power to the gauge lights. This wire should have constant battery power any time the headlight switch knob is pulled to both the park light ON and headlight ON positions.
BLUE / YELLOW : 14-gauge wire, printed < TO DIMMER SWITCH <#907> TO
HEADLIGHT SWITCH > , this wire supplies power to the dimmer switch for headlight operation. This wire has constant battery power any time the headlight switch knob is pulled to the headlight ON position.
RED /BLACK: 12-gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SWITCH SECTION] #928 > TO
HEADLIGHT SWITCH (POWER B+) > ; this wire provides constant battery power to the headlight switch for headlight operation. This wire comes from the 25-amp fuse on the fuse block.
•
Route the wires to the headlight switch and connect them. If your vehicle has dome/courtesy lights, additional connections to the headlight switch can be found beginning on page 98 .
The use of some or all of these wires will depend on the headlight switch you use.
Diagrams have been provided of the most common switches, along with universal switches that Painless also offers.
If your switch does not have a separate terminal for gauge backlighting, connect wire #930 with the tail light wire #929 at the switch. If yo ur switch doesn’t have separate tail and park terminals, #927 and #929 wires will connect together at the switch. In the case you do not have a backlighting terminal and also do not have separate tail/park terminals, all three wires #930 , #927 , and #929 will all share the same terminal on the switch.
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62
GM HEADLIGHT SWITCHES
Use the following diagrams to connect to a GM style headlight switch. GM used this style headlight switch from the 1960s up through the 1980s. There are two different types of these switches, commonly referred to as early and late styles. The only difference is the tab to which the park lights connect (see the diagrams below for an illustration of this difference).
Painless offers the early style switch with a headlight pull, part #80152 , seen in the photo to the right.
If you do not have a connector, use the light blue insulated terminals found in the parts kit to make these connections.
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FORD HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Use the following diagram to connect to a Ford style headlight switch. This style switch was common on Ford vehicles used in the 1960s and 1970s. Use the insulated terminals found in the parts kit to make these connections.
•
The BROWN #927 wire can be connected to the “P” terminal as well, but doing so will cause the park lights to switch off when the headlights are on.
•
The RED /BLACK #928 wire can also be connected to the “B” terminal. However, connecting the #928 wire to the “A” terminal bypasses the internal circuit breaker, which was known to cause issues.
CHRYSLER HEADLIGHT SWITCH
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PAINLESS UNIVERSAL HEADLIGHT SWITCHES
Painless offers several universal switches as well, and even one with hi-low beam dimmer functions. Use the following diagrams to connect to either of the universal headlight switches offered by Painless. Use the blue insulated ring terminals found in the parts kit to make these connections.
TOGGLE / ROCKER HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Some vehicles, such as T-buckets, and others which may have a smaller narrower dashboard, may not have the room or want the clutter of a bigger headlight switch.
Reference the diagrams below to install a lighted or non-lighted SPST (Single Pole Single
Throw) toggle or rocker switch. This will also require the use of 2 SPST relays.
The small black and red lines and seen in the diagrams are wires that need to be provided by the installer, these can be small 18-gauge wires since they are only providing ground/ power for relay activation and power for the backlighting of a switch.
The diode seen in the diagram is the same as the diode provided in the alternator bag kit. If you are not using the diode with your alternator it may be used for this purpose, if you need a diode, Painless offers #30720 .
Those using a lighted toggle/rocker switch, connections are the same as a nonlighted only you will need to provide a power source to the backlight of the switch. This will generally be a tab on the back of the switch that is opposite of the terminals for the input and output(s) as seen below.
You can get a battery power 12v source from either the #928 or #959 wires of the headlight switch section.
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BRAKE SWITCH
The location of the brake switch varies from vehicle to vehicle as this connection depends on the style switch your vehicle uses.
Hydraulic switches, like Painless part #80171 , are mounted in the engine compartment, usually near or on the master cylinder. A mechanical switch, like Painless part #80172 (2-pin) or #80176 (4-pin, also included in our torque converter lockup kits
#60109 & #60110 ), will be mounted on or near the pivot point of the brake pedal.
If you have a hydraulic switch, see page 30 for instructions. If you’re using a mechanical switch you should have re-routed the wires from the engine compartment on pages 17 & 18 . The following steps will guide you on how to connect a mechanical switch.
There are two wires found in the Painless chassis harness for proper brake switch connection, and they are:
ORANGE : 14-gauge wire, printed [ENGINE SECTION] #917 > TO BRAKE SWITCH
(POWER B+)> , which provides power from a 15-amp fuse on the fuse block. This wire will have power at all times.
WHITE : 16-gauge wire, printed [ENGINE SECTION] #918 > BRAKE SWITCH OUTPUT
> , this wire supplies power from the brake switch to the brake lights. This wire goes into a splice with two other wires. This splice can be seen in the Engine Section
Schematic on page 29 .
•
Route the brake switch wires to the brake switch and connect them. Be sure to route the wires away from the moving parts of the brake pedal and/or clutch pedal.
If your brake switch has four connection pins :
•
Two pins will have contact or will be closed when the brakes are not applied. This is usually the pair of terminals closest together. These pins are for cruise control and/or torque converter lockup.
•
Two pins will be separate, or open when the brakes are not applied. This is usually the pair of terminals further apart. You will need these two posts that are normally open for brake light function.
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TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
The turn signal switch provides power to each turn signal and turn signal indicator.
For those using a later model or aftermarket GM style column, turn signal switch connectors are provided. As noted on page 10 , if you use LED lights, a no-load flasher is required (Painless part #80230 ).
In this group of instructions, you will see the term “integrated turn/brake lights.”
Most vehicles have integrated lights. This terminology refers to turn signals that also function as brake lights. You can easily tell if your vehicle has integrated turn/brake signals or separate turn/brake lights by looking at the lamp socket(s) on the rear of the vehicle. Only looking at the passenger or the driver side, how many sockets going into red lenses do you see?
Integrated turn brake signal vehicles will usually have 1 socket per side with a dual filament bulb (brighter filament for turn/brake, dimmer filament for tail lights). You can also have vehicles that have integrated lights but also have multiple sockets and lenses.
Separate turn brake signal vehicles will usually have 2 or 3 sockets:
1 socket with dual filaments (brighter filament for brake, dimmer for tail) and 1 socket with a single filament for the turn signal. Remember to count the bulb filaments or the contacts on the bottom of the bulb, not the wires going to them, as your sockets may or may not have ground wires. These types will sometimes also have an amber lens.
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The wires provided in the Painless harness for turn signal connection can be identified by the wires reading “ TURN SWITCH.
” These wires can be seen in the Turn
Signal Switch & Brake Switch Schematic on page 68 , they are:
PURPLE : 16-gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SECTION] #952 > TURN SIGNAL
SWITCH POWER (IGN) > , this wire provides power to the turn signal switch. It comes from the turn signal flasher found on the fuse block. It is an ignition power wire but it has power only when the turn signal switch is activated, which causes the flasher to send power through this wire. See Flashers on page 10 for how this process works.
LT. BLUE : 18-gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SWITCH] #926 LEFT FRONT TURN
SIGNAL , this wire provides power to the front left turn signal. This wire has power anytime the hazard switch is activated and also when the turn signal lever is in the down/left turn position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position.
BLUE : 18-gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SWITCH] #925 RIGHT FRONT TURN
SIGNAL , this wire provides power to the front right turn signal. This wire has power anytime the hazard switch is activated and also when the turn signal lever is in the up/right turn position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position.
WHITE : 16-gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SECTION] #918 > BRAKE LIGHT
POWER >, this wire feeds the brake light power into the turn signal switch. This wire has power anytime the brake pedal is pressed. This wire will only be needed if you have integrated brake lights.
YELLOW : 16-gauge wire, printed [TAIL SECTION] #949 > TO LEFT TURN/BRAKE > , this wire provides power to the left rear turn signal. This wire has power anytime the hazard switch is activated and when the turn signal lever is in the down/left turn position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position. On vehicles with integrated turn/brake lights, this wire also carries the brake light power. In those cases, this wire will also have power anytime the brake pedal is pressed.
GREEN : 16-gauge wire, printed [TAIL SECTION] #948 > RIGHT TURN/BRAKE > , this wire provides power to the right rear turn signal. This wire has power anytime the hazard switch is activated and when the turn signal lever is in the up/right turn position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position. On vehicles with integrated turn/brake lights, this wire also carries the brake light power. In those cases, this wire will also have power anytime the brake pedal is pressed.
BROWN : 14-gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SECTION] #951 > TO EMERGENCY
FLASHER SWITCH > , this wire provides power to the hazard switch. It comes from the hazard flasher found on the fuse block. It is a battery power wire but it has power only when the hazard switch is activated which causes the flasher to send power through this wire. See Flashers on page 10 for how this process works.
BLACK: 18-gauge wire, [TURN SIGNAL SECTION] #953 > TO HORN SWITCH > , this wire is a ground activation signal to the horn relay. The only time this wire is grounded is when the horn button on the steering wheel makes contact to a ground source.
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•
Route the turn signal wires to the turn signal switch and cut to length.
•
Use one of the following turn switch diagrams and connect each wire of the Turn
Signal Switch Section to its correct connection.
•
If a diagram is not provided, a factory schematic for your vehicle may be needed in order to figure out your connections.
GM COLUMNS / AFTERMARKET GM STYLE COLUMNS
•
Locate the black connectors in the kit that fit your column the terminals in the bag kit. Most columns will use the plug seen to the right, which is found on most aftermarket columns, as well as
GM columns from the mid-1970s onward. These
GM columns are a popular retrofit item because of their key on the column and tilt function.
•
Using the diagram below, pin each wire into its correct location on the connector. Remember,
WHITE #918 will only be connected if you have integrated brake lights.
•
If you use the connector, once all wires have been installed, fold the locking tab down onto the connector. It will click/snap and lock the terminals in their place.
•
Connect the now installed connector onto the connector on the steering column.
EXTERNAL / CLAMP-ON COLUMN MOUNTED SWITCH
There are many versions of this typical “hot rod/street rod” style switch. In most cases, this type of switch will have wires coming from it in which the chassis harness will connect. Do not try to match the color of the wires on your switch to the colors found on the Painless harness. Due to so many variations and manufacturers of this type of switch, a specific pinout/ schematic cannot be given for every switch. Below is a schematic with the most common way to connect one of these switches into the Painless harness. This diagram covers popular models from Grote & Speedway.
NOTE: The colors in the diagram reflect those found in many Grote and cheaper, aftermarket switches. However, they may not match your particular switch. Please refer to manufacturer instructions to ensure you’re connecting the proper wires together.
If your clamp-on switch has an indicator light, then a 3-pin flasher is generally required. This will allow the onboard indicator lights of the switch to function properly. The
Painless harness you are installing comes equipped with two 2-pin flashers which obviously will not work, and the fuse block does not have a provision for a 3-pin flasher.
However, the pre-installation steps on page 10 covered the initial steps on how to integrate a 3-pin flasher into the Painless system.
•
The PURPLE #952 wire from the Painless harness will provide the flasher relay with power. On most 3-pin flashers, this will be either the terminal labeled “X” or “B.”
•
The other two prongs will wire to the switch wiring . The “L,” or “load” terminal will provide the load to the turn signal switch. The “P” or Pilot will go to the indicator light.
•
As stated before, do not try to match the switch colors to the Painless harness colors, as there are many variations in switches.
Follow the manufacturers’ instructions on proper connections of the wires from the switch.
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SPDT TOGGLE SWITCH
If you do not have a turn switch, a simple On-Off-On SPDT switch can be used for this function. Please be aware that the diagram and instructions provided below are for separate turn/brake light vehicles only. Those with integrated lights are encouraged to purchase a clamp-on turn signal switch as seen on the previous few pages.
•
Connect the PURPLE #952 wire to the input of the switch.
•
Connect the front and rear left turn signal wires, the LT. BLUE & YELLOW #949 , to one position on the switch.
•
Connect the front and rear right turn signal wires, BLUE & GREEN #948 , to the remaining position on the switch.
HAZARD SWITCH
If you do not have a factory style hazard switch, a 3PST On-Off switch can be used for this function.
•
Connect the BROWN #951 wire from the hazard flasher to all 3 poles of the switch by chaining the terminals together. This wire provides power from the flasher to the switch.
•
Then, connect the WHITE #918 , LT. BLUE , & BLUE wires to the other 3 terminals.
These wires connect the brake lights, as well as the front turn signals to the hazard switch. o If you have separate turn brake lights, #918 can connect directly to the toggle. If you have integrated lights, then run a wire from the toggle switch and splice into the #918 wire.
Also, a simple SPST On-Off switch can be used to flash only the brake lights in the event of an emergency. This diagram will not flash the front turn signals like a traditional hazard flasher which your local laws may require.
•
Connect the BROWN #951 power wire from the flasher to the switch. If you have separate turn brake lights, the WHITE #918 wire can connect directly to the toggle. o If you have integrated lights, then run a wire from the toggle switch and splice into the WHITE #918 wire.
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HORN BUTTON
If you are using an external/clamp turn signal or a toggle switch for turn signal activation, the remaining BLACK wire found in the Turn Signal Section will be for horn function.
•
If you have a horn button on the column, the connection will depend on if you have a one or two-wire horn button.
•
Connect the BLACK wire found in the Turn Signal Section to the horn button. o If your horn button has one wire, this is all you need do as your horn button is grounded through the mounting. o If your horn button has two wires, connect a user-supplied ground wire to the other wire.
•
If your column does not have a horn button, a momentary SPST switch can be used.
This switch will have two prongs, toggle switches will look identical to the one seen above. Connect the BLACK #953 wire to one prong and a user-supplied ground wire to the other.
NEUTRAL SAFETY / CLUTCH SWITCH
This switch is a safety device that prevents the vehicle from being started while in gear and causing an unfortunate accident. The purpose of this switch is to only allow the engine to be started when the vehicle is in park or neutral (automatic transmissions) or if the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmissions). When the transmission is put into park/neutral or the clutch pedal is depressed, contact is made between these two pins, closing the switch. This allows power to flow from one pin to another, transferring power through the switch to the starter solenoid.
The neutral safety/clutch switch connection is a single wire:
PURPLE : 12-gauge wire, printed [START/CHARGE SECTION] #919 > TO STARTER
SOLENOID > , this wire will supply the solenoid with a switched power source from the ignition switch. This power will activate the starter solenoid causing it to turn the engine over for startup. This wire will only have power when the ignition switch is in the Start/Crank position. This wire can be seen in the Charge / Battery Power
Schematic on page 38 and in the various ignition switch schematics found on pages
78
– 82
.
•
In order to use a neutral safety switch, you will install it in-line on the PURPLE #919 wire.
If you have an automatic transmission with a column shift, the NSS is usually located at the base of the steering column, as seen in the photo to the right. This same switch can be found at the base of factory console shifters.
•
Route the PURPLE #919 wire to the NSS, cut to length, and attach it to the switch.
•
Connect the cut off portion of the PURPLE #919 wire to the other terminal on the NNS and then route it toward the ignition switch. The ignition switch connection will be covered in the next section.
If you are using an aftermarket floor shifter:
•
If you have a manual, the clutch switch is located at the top of the clutch pedal, much like the brake switch on the brake pedal.
•
Route the wires to the reverse switch, cut to length and strip ¼” of insulation. Also, strip
¼”
of insulation from the cutoff piece of PURPLE #919 wire as it will connect to the switch as well.
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Re-use the connector from the factory harness, seen to the right, or use the small insulated terminals that have been provided in the parts kit. It does not matter which tab each wire connects to. Once connected to the switch, route the cutoff portion of #919 to the ignition switch. The ignition switch connection will be covered in the next section.
•
Those with a 4L60e/4L80e transmission, a starter relay must be used (not supplied) if using a factory switch. The switch is not capable of handling the amperage the solenoid requires.
If you do not have a neutral safety/clutch switch and do not plan on getting one, connect these wires together and route the #919 wire directly to the Starter Solenoid “S” Terminal.
Painless does not recommend operating your vehicle without a neutral safety/clutch switch.
NOTES:
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IGNITION SWITCH
The most important connection of a wiring harness, the ignition switch, controls power to the switched ignition fuses in the fuse block as well as sending power to the starter solenoid to crank the engine.
The ignition switch connection consists of five wires. All wires going to the ignition switch can be seen in the Ignition Switch Schematic below.
RED : (2) 12-gauge wires, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] #934 > TO IGNITION
SWITCH POWER B+ > , these wires come from a buss bar on the fuse block and feed battery power to the ignition switch. These wires have power at all times.
ORANGE : 12-gauge wire, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] #933 > TO IGNITION
SWITCH
“IGN” TERMINAL >
, this wire provides the switched power source to the fuse block. This wire powers all of the switched power circuits to the harness.
This wire only has power when the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position.
PURPLE : 12-gauge wire, printed [START/CHARGE SECTION] #919 > TO STARTER
SOLENOID > , this wire will supply the solenoid with a switched power source from the ignition switch. This power will activate the starter solenoid causing it to turn the engine over for startup. This wire will only have power when the ignition switch is in the Start/Crank position.
BROWN : 16-gauge wire, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] #932 > TO IGNITION
SWITCH ACCESSORY TERMINAL > , this wire carries power to the RADIO fuse on the fuse block. This BROWN wire has power when the ignition is in the ACCESSORY position and when in the ON/RUN position.
Since there are so many different types of ignition switches, chose from one of the following that best fits your application:
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GM COLUMN MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCH
Many of the popular retro-fitted GM columns people use in their vehicles have the ignition key on the column. The diagram and instructions below demonstrate how to properly connect to this type of ignition switch.
•
Locate the factory style connectors and terminals provided in the kit (see image to the right).
•
Install the wires into the connectors according to the diagram below. Remember the diagram shows the connector from the wire side.
•
Locate the ignition switch on the top of the steering column, seen in the photos below, and route the ignition switch wires to the switch.
•
The connectors must be installed in a specific order; the clear connector needs to be attached first, and then the black. Part of the black connector will overlap the clear connector.
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GM DASH MOUNTED IGNITION SWITCHES
Your vehicle may have one of the many different dash-mounted ignition switches.
Some have functions printed next to each pin on the switch; this allows for identification as to where each wire connects. Others will need a factory schematic to identify the functions of their switch. Below, there are diagrams showing the proper connection of a few of these popular switches.
Since there are so many different types of ignition switches, chose from one of the following that best fits your application:
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FORD KEY ON THE DASH
Below you will see a diagram to a common Ford dash-mounted ignition switch.
This switch was used on many cars and trucks throughout the 1960s and 1970s. It is easily identified by a thread post that comes out of the center; position C in the drawing below.
Pin D will provide a ground source to the warning lights when the ignition switch is in the ON position and the vehicle is not running. This will give the driver a visual indication that all warning lights have functioning bulbs. Connections for this pin are not supplied in this harness but can easily be added by the installer.
PAINLESS UNIVERSAL IGNITION SWITCH -
#80153
Painless offers a universal, dash mount ignition switch. This switch comes with the trim ring, which screws onto the switch to hold the switch in place, as well as two keys.
The switch can be found as part #80153 or in switch kit #80121 .
•
Use insulated ring terminals, found in the parts kit, to make these connections.
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INSTRUMENT PANEL
The instrument panel connections of the Painless harness vary according to the gauge cluster or aftermarket gauges you are using. The wires for this connection are grouped together. These wires are:
BROWN : 18-gauge wire, printed #930 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTING , this wire provides a power source for gauge backlighting. The BROWN #930 wire comes directly from the headlight switch and has power anytime the headlight switch is in the
Park/Tail Lights ON or Headlights ON position. This wire can also be seen in the
Headlight Switch & Dimmer Switch Schematic on page 62 .
PINK : 18-gauge wire, printed < FUEL SENDER [TAIL SECTION] < #939 > FUEL
GAUGE [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] > , this wire is a ground signal from the fuel level sending unit in the fuel tank. The resistance to ground will vary on this wire according to the amount of fuel in the tank. This wire can also be seen in the Tail
Section Schematics on pages 104 & 105 .
RED / WHITE : 18-gauge wire, printed [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] #935 > TO
VOLTMETER SOURCE (DASH POWER B+) > , this wire provides a switched ignition power source to the cluster. This wire comes from the 15-amp fuse on the fuse block.
This wire has power anytime the key is in the ON/RUN position.
LT. GREEN : 18-gauge wire, printed < TO TEMP SENDER [ENGINE SECTION] < #921
> TO TEMP GAUGE [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] > , this wire is a ground signal from the engine coolant temperature sending unit. The sending unit will create resistance to ground according to engine temperature. This resistance is transferred through this wire to the gauge.
PURPLE / WHITE : 18-gauge wire, printed < COIL (-) [ENGINE SECTION] < #923 >
TACHOMETER [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] , this wire is a ground signal from the negative side of the ignition coil. This wire can also be seen in the coil connection diagrams on pages 36 & 37 .
LT. BLUE /BLACK: 18-gauge wire, printed < TO OIL SENDER [ENGINE SECTION] <
#922 > TO OIL GAUGE [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] , this wire is a ground signal from the oil pressure sending unit. The sending unit will create resistance to ground according to oil pressure. This resistance is transferred through this wire to the gauge.
GREEN : 18-gauge wire, printed [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] #936 > TO HIGH
BEAM INDICATOR > , this wire provides power to the high beam indicator when the headlight switch is in the “ON” position and the dimmer switch is in the “HIGH” position.
LT. BLUE : 18-gauge wire, printed [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] #937 > TO LEFT
TURN INDICATOR > , this wire provides power to the left turn indicator when the turn signal switch is in the left turn position.
BLUE : 18-gauge wire, printed [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] #938 > TO RIGHT
TURN INDICATOR > , this wire provides power to the right turn indicator when the turn signal switch is in the right turn position.
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FACTORY PRINTED CIRCUIT GAUGES
A factory schematic or your factory harness is necessary to identify the connector pinout needed for your gauges. If your cluster requires a bigger or smaller connector, use the new terminals provided and re-use your factory connector.
•
Most factory, GM printed circuit gauge clusters used a 12-pin connector like the one in the diagram below. You may use a factory schematic or your factory harness to fill in the blanks on the image with the function and/or Painless wire color and circuit number for each connector location.
If you have a charge/alternator light, the WHITE #914 wire that provides ignition power to the alternator needs to be routed to the gauge cluster, cut to length, and the cut off portion then routed from the gauge cluster out to the alternator.
If you have a brake warning light, a wire (not supplied) needs to be run from the gauge cluster to the emergency brake switch and to the brake warning switch if equipped.
This was most commonly an 18 ga TAN wire on factory harnesses.
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AFTERMARKET GAUGES
The following instructions will be universal in nature due to all the different manufacturers of aftermarket gauges. Use the following instructions along with the gauge manufacturer’s instructions.
Most electric aftermarket gauges require four or five wire connections:
•
Gauge Power - a Switched 12-volt power source
•
Gauge Ground (some gauges do not require this)
•
A signal from a sensor or sending unit
•
Gauge Light Power - 12-volt power source from the Gauge Lighting circuit
•
Gauge Light Ground
Most mechanical aftermarket gauges only require two wires to be connected:
•
Gauge Light Power- 12-volt power source from the Gauge Lighting circuit
•
Gauge Light Ground
All of these connections are present in the wiring Painless harness. However, it will be up to the installer to distribute the power for the gauge and the gauge lights as well as the grounds. This additional splicing will be dependent on the method the gauge wires are connected to the gauges.
There are two methods of connecting aftermarket gauges:
•
Separate harness
•
Hardwiring
SEPARATE HARNESS –
PAINLESS #30301 & 30302
To facilitate wiring individual aftermarket gauges Painless offers, and recommends, the use of Painless part
#30301 ( #30302 if using an electric speedometer). This is a universal gauge cluster harness that has all the splicing and termination pre-installed for these types of applications. This harness also offers you the benefit of having an inline connector instead of hardwiring the chassis harness directly to the gauges.
•
Using the terminals and connector found in the 30301 or 30302 kits, install the wires of the Painless chassis harness according to the diagram below. Use the numbers on the connectors as well as the circled reference points in the diagram for the proper cavity location. A gauge light ground will not be used.
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HARDWIRING:
For those who choose to wire aftermarket gauges with just the wires found in the
Painless chassis harness, and not purchase an additional gauge harness, the following steps will walk you through the process of distributing power and ground as well as connecting the sender wires. The following diagrams only show temp, oil pressure, volt, and fuel level gauges. Power, ground, and sender wires connect in the same manner to speedometers and tachometers.
Power to the gauges comes from the RED / WHITE #935 wire, and it needs to be connected to the “I” or “12v” post on each gauge. The power wire can be connected in one of two ways:
#1) Splicing - This is when you connect multiple wires to a single wire to distribute power/ground to multiple components. In this case, splices on the RED / WHITE #935 wire are running wires to several gauges to provide power to each gauge.
#2) Chaining or Jumpering - Run the RED / WHITE #935 wire to a power post. Before terminating the wire with the proper terminal, insert another wire into the terminal and crimp. You now have 2 wires in 1 terminal. This additional wire then routes to the next gauge’s power post. Before terminating that wire with the proper terminal, insert another wire into the terminal; and so on.
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Grounds need to be supplied to the gauge lights and to any ground tab on the gauges. The installer needs to run their own ground circuit for gauge connections. To make these ground connections you can splice from the installer provided ground wires to all the gauges or chain/jumper it all together. Both methods can be seen in the following two drawings:
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Gauge light power is supported by the BROWN #930 wire. This wire connects to one of the leads for the gauge light or to the gauge light tab found on gauges with LED backlighting. To make these connections you can splice from this BROWN #930 wire to all the gauges or chain/jumper it all together.
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The last connections that need to be made are the sending unit wires or signal wires. These are the wires which come from the temperature sending unit, oil pressure sending unit, and fuel level sending unit. Not shown in the diagram, but also provided in the Painless chassis harness is the PURPLE / WHITE #923 TACHOMETER SIGNAL wire.
NOTES:
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RADIO & ACCESSORIES
This Painless harness includes provisions for several accessory components that may or may not be used on your particular install. These accessory wires include wiper power, which should have already been connected. Below, you will find information about each of these accessories and the wires provided in this harness to connect them.
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RADIO
The Painless harness includes two wires for the radio connections. They are:
RED : 18-gauge wire, printed [ RADIO SECTION] #940 RADIO BATTERY POWER , this wire provides the radio a battery power source that allows the time and radio presets to remain every time the ignition is turned off. This wire comes from a 10-amp fuse and can be seen in the Radio & Accessory Schematic on page 92 .
RED /BLACK: 18-gauge wire, printed [RADIO SECTION] #941 RADIO POWER (IGN), this wire provides the radio with ignition-switched power for operation. This wire has power when the ignition switch is in the ACCESSORY and ON/RUN positions. This wire comes from a 10-amp fuse of the fuse block and can be seen in the Radio &
Accessory Schematic on page 92 .
If you are wanting to wire in a radio dim/backlight, then you will need to splice into the BROWN #930 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTING wire. This wire will provide a power signal to the radio to dim the backlighting/display during low light conditions. On older radios, this power source will illuminate the backlighting. This wire will have power anytime the headlight switch is in the Park/Tail Lights ON or Headlights ON position. This wire/splice can be seen in the Headlight Switch Schematic on page 62 .
•
If you are using an aftermarket radio, refer to the manufacturer’s installation guide for proper connection. Splices and quick-disconnect terminals have been provided in the parts kit.
•
If you are using a factory radio, a factory schematic for the vehicle it came out of will be needed to identify the connections to the radio.
Many older radios require one power source, Painless recommends connecting the RED /BLACK #941 to the radio in these circumstances so that the radio will only operate when the ignition switch is in the ACCESSORY or ON/RUN position. This will prevent the radio from draining the battery if it is accidentally left on.
•
You must supply your own ground for the radio.
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ACCESSORY SECTION
The Accessory Section of the Painless harness consists of four wires for various accessory applications. Locations of all of these components vary from vehicle to vehicle, so no specific routing instructions can be given.
Wiper System
BLUE : 16-gauge wire, printed [ACCESSORY SECTION] #905 > WIPER POWER (IGN)
> , this wire provides ignition switched power to the wiper motor or switch depending on your set-up and comes from a 15-amp fuse.
•
Only a power wire for the wiper system is provided, this is due to Painless not knowing what type/speed of wiper system and the total number of wires your particular install requires. There will be enough cut off 16-gauge wires during the install you should be able to use these cut offs to make the appropriate connections from your wiper switch to your wiper motor.
Fan Relay Activation Using #906 Accessory Power (Ign.)
GREY / WHITE : 18-gauge wire, printed [ACCESSORY SECTION] #906 > ACCESSORY
POWER (IGN) > , this wire provides a switched Ignition power source for an accessory not exceeding 5 amps. In most cases, this wire is used to provide a cooling fan relay a switched 12v source activation. DO NOT POWER A COOLING FAN WITH THIS
WIRE.
If the #906 wire will be used to power some other accessory, re-route the #906 in the harness to where ever the accessory is located.
GREY / WHITE : 18-gauge wire, printed < [HEADLIGHT SECTION] ACCESSORY/RELAY
ACT. < #901 > [ACCESSORY SECTION] ACCESSORY/RELAY ACT.
; this wire will only have power if it is connected to the GREY / WHITE #906 wire. This wire can be used for the activation of the relay coil only and MUST NOT be used to directly power a cooling fan.
There are numerous ways these two wires can be used and connected. If an accessory is to be powered or an accessory relay, like a cooling fan or driving/fog light relay, is to be installed, choose the best connection method according to the instructions and diagrams that follow. This wire can only be used to power an accessory up to 10 amps when an electric choke is also connected.
If there is no need for an extra switched ignition power source at this time, simply insulate the #906 wire with an insulated terminal from the parts kit. #901 can remain openended or removed from the harness
Powering a Component
The component you are powering, plus the other circuits tied to the CHOKE fuse, must not exceed 20 amps. The fuse found pre-installed on the fuse block for the CHOKE circuit is 15 amps and may be swapped out in favor of a larger 20-amp fuse if the need arises.
DO NOT EXCEED A 15 AMP FUSE as the wires on these circuits are only 16- and 18gauge wires.
The connection for powering an aftermarket component will depend on where the component is located. If the component is located within reach of the #906 wire on the inside of the vehicle, wire #901 will not be used.
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•
Route wire #906 to the component to be powered. Use male and female disconnect terminals to connect the #906 wire to the terminal/stud/wire on the component requiring a switched ignition power source.
•
If a component is located in the engine compartment or at the rear of the vehicle, connect #906 and #901 together. This will supply power to the #901 accessory wire can be routed to the front of the vehicle or to the Tail Section.
Relays
Those needing to activate relays have two options: power-activate the relay or ground activate the relay. The difference will determine how the #906 and #901 wires are wired.
Refer to the RELAY& SWITCHES section at the front of this manual for a better understanding of 12v and ground activating.
If you are ground activating a relay, such as in the case of a cooling fan using a grounded thermostatic switch (coolant temp switch), or activating using a ground output from a fuel injection ECM, connect according to the instructions below. In these instances, pin “85” of the relay will connect to the ground activation source, the coolant temp switch, or ECM ground activation wire.
The instructions below also work when installing a relay that will operate an electric fuel pump, water pump, or some other component that you want to activate anytime the k ey is in the “ON/RUN” position. In these instances, pin “85” of the relay will connect to chassis ground.
•
If the relay is to be installed on the interior, not recommended for cooling fan relays:
Connect the #906 to the “86” pin of the relay. This will be the only wire supplied by the
Painless harness for relay connection. See the diagrams below for the proper connection of the remaining relay pins.
A switch can also be placed in line of the 12v activation wire to allow additional control of the activation
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•
If the relay is to be installed in the engine compartment: Connect #906 and #901 together using a red splice from the parts kit. This will supply power from the fuse block, through the #906 wire, to the #901 wire going to the bulkhead. Then, from the bulkhead in the engine compartment, to the #901 wire in the engine harness.
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See the relay section of our website to select the appropriate relay kit(s) for your application: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/relay
Additional Wires
ORANGE : 16-gauge wire, printed #945 TO ACCESSORY (CONSTANT HOT) , this wire provides a constant battery power source for an accessory not exceeding 15 amps.
This wire can be used to power a USB charger, cigarette lighter, clock, etc.
In most cases this wire will be used to power dome/courtesy lights. Additional wires, not supplied, will be needed to complete installations where a dome/courtesy light is being used. Activation wires from the headlight switch and/or jamb switches, and additional splicing will need to be created to accommodate your particular installation. Scrap wire from the installation of this harness can be used for this.
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TAIL SECTION
The Tail Section wires are the last group to be connected. This group of wires connect to things like the right & left turn signals, taillights, reverse lights, license plate light, and fuel level sending unit. All the wires found in the Tail Section can be seen in the schematics found on pages 104 & 105 .
•
Route the wires with the print reading “TAIL SECTION” to the rear of the vehicle. Make sure to avoid pinch points around door/trunk hinges and moving parts like window regulators.
LEFT SIDE MARKER LIGHT
The left side marker light is the next connection. The marker light is activated by a power source coming from the headlight switch. This light illuminates any time the headlight switch is in the PARK or ON position.
The park light requires two wires to work properly, they are:
BROWN : 16-gauge wire, printed [TAIL SECTION] #929 > TO TAIL LIGHTS > , this is a power wire for the park or marker light function. This wire has power anytime the headlight switch is in the Park/Tail Lights ON or Headlights ON position. This wire, along with all the other wires and splices it is associated with, can be seen in the tail section schematics on pages 104 & 105 .
•
This wire also provides power to the left tail light and license plate light. These lights will need to be hardwired together using the chaining or jumper method discussed on page 87 .
•
Route the tail light wire to the marker light and cut to length. Strip ¼” of wire from the wires of the Painless harness and from the wires on the socket. Splice the wire of the
Painless harness with the excess wire you just cut off to the wires on the socket and provide a ground. It does not matter which wire goes where.
•
Keep the remainder of the wire will be routed to the tail light and then license plate light.
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LICENSE PLATE LIGHT
The plate light is the next connection that needs to be made. This light is tied to the rear marker lights and taillights and will illuminate the license plate when the headlight switch is in the park light “ON” or headlight “ON” positions.
BROWN : 16-gauge wires, printed [TAIL SECTION] #929 > TO TAIL LIGHTS > , this is a power wire for the license plate light function. This wire has power anytime the headlight switch is in the park light ON or headlight ON positions. This wire, along with all the other wires and splice it is associated with, can be seen in the tail section schematics on pages 104 & 105 .
•
In most cases, your license plate light will have a socket/bullet terminal connection.
Insulated terminals have been provided in the parts kit to connect to these types of plate lights. You can cover the insulated terminal with heat shrink once connected to clean up the look of this connection since colored insulated terminals can often look out of place.
•
Your factory light socket must be re-used. Splice the Painless harness wires to the factory wires coming from your socket.
LEFT TURN / BRAKE LIGHTS
Connection to the turn signal/brake lights depends on if your vehicle has integrated or separate turn/brake signals; both are explained on page 69 .
To begin making connections to the turn/brake lights, locate the wires in the tail section dedicated to these functions, they are:
YELLOW : 16-gauge wire, printed [TAIL SECTION] #949 > TO LEFT TURN / BRAKE> , this wire provides power to the left turn signal. This wire has power anytime the turn signal is in the down/left position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position.
For vehicles with integrated turn/brake signals, this wire is also the brake light power.
The wire has power anytime the brake pedal is pressed or anytime the hazard switch is activated. This wire can be seen in Tail Section Schematics on pages 104 & 105 .
ORANGE : 18-gauge wire, printed [TAIL SECTION] #950 > TO THIRD BRAKE LIGHT > , this wire provides power to the brake lights on vehicles with separate turn/brake lights, or a third brake light, and has power anytime the brake pedal is pressed or the hazard switch is activated. This wire can be seen in the Tail Section Schematics on pages
104 & 105 .
Notice there is only one separate brake light wire going to the Tail Section . Since
Painless has no idea if this wire will be needed in your particular application, and since it is not used in most applications, we only provide one wire to prevent additional unused power wires to be taped up in the harness. If separate turn brake sockets are used, it will be up to you to splice or link this brake light power to both brake lights.
If you have integrated turn/brake lights and no 3 rd brake light, install an insulated terminal on this ORANGE #950 wire and tape it up into the harness, this wire will not be used.
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Your factory turn signal sockets must be re-used. Splice the Painless harness wires to the factory wires coming from your sockets.
•
Loosely route the YELLOW #949 turn signal wire to the turn signal. On integrated brake/ turn housings/assemblies with a dual filament bulb, this will be the brighter filament. If you have separate turn/brake lights this will connect to the socket with the yellow lens.
•
If you have separate turn/brake lights, route the ORANGE #950 brake light wire to the closest brake light as well. On housings/assemblies with a dual filament bulb, this will be the brighter filament.
•
If your housing requires a ground source, ground wires need to be connected at this time.
•
Cut the wires to length and connect to the appropriate contact/wire in the housings/assemblies. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions if you are using aftermarket assemblies. Splices are provided to make these connections.
TAIL LIGHTS
In most cases, your rear exterior lights have at least one housing/assembly with a dual filament bulb. The tail light connections attach to the dimmest filament(s) of this type of housing/assembly. One wire is provided in the tail section for these connections, it is:
BROWN : 16-gauge wires, printed [TAIL SECTION] #929 > TO TAIL LIGHT > , this wire provides the tail light power. This wire receives power from the headlight switch and has power anytime the headlight switch is pulled into the PARK/TAIL LIGHT ON and
HEADLIGHT ON positions. This wire can be seen in the Tail Section Schematics on pages 104 & 105 .
•
Your factory tail light sockets must be re-used. Factory style terminals and button contacts are supplied to allow easy re-use of your sockets. If you find that these terminals do not work with your sockets, you will need to splice the Painless harness wires to the factory wires coming from your sockets.
•
Loosely route the BROWN #929 tail light wire to the tail light. On housings/assemblies with a dual filament bulb, this will be the dimmer filament.
•
Cut the wires to length and connect to the appropriate contact in the housings/assemblies. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions if you are using aftermarket assemblies.
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FUEL SENDING UNIT
The fuel level sending unit sends a ground signal to the fuel level gauge. The float inside the tank moves up and down with the level of fuel in the tank. This raising and lowering of the fuel level moves an arm/contact across a resistor of the sending unit. This sends a resisted signal to the fuel level gauge. The amount of resistance the gauge sees is evident based on the reading of the gauge. In order for the fuel gauge to work properly, the fuel level sending unit operating range must match the gauges operating range. One wire is included in this Painless kit for this function, it is:
PINK : 18-gauge wire, printed < FUEL SENDER [TAIL SECTION] < #939 > FUEL
GAUGE [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION] > , this wire sends the ground signal from the fuel level sending unit to the fuel level gauge.
•
Route the PINK #939 wire to the fuel level sending unit.
*Note: If a hole has to be drilled in the trunk pan, be sure to not puncture the fuel tank . Also, before a hole is drilled, make sure there is no other way to get the #939 wire to the fuel sender.
•
The parts kit provides insulated terminals to make this connection.
•
The sending unit must be grounded in order to work properly; Painless does not offer a wire specifically for this. Some sending units have a tab for a ground connection while others may rely on the sending unit mounting. If your sending unit has a ground tab, run a wire from a clean chassis ground source to this tab.
If you do not have a ground tab, run a ground wire from a clean chassis ground source to one of the mounting bolts of the sending unit. Do not rely on a ground through the mounting of the sending unit to the tank.
RIGHT TURN/ BRAKE/ REVERSE/ MARKER LIGHTS
The connections mentioned above all connect in the same manner as those on the left/driver side. The only difference you will find is the turn signal wire for the right turn signal is a different color than the one used for the left turn signal. The right turn signal will be:
GREEN : 16-gauge wire, printed [TAIL SECTION] #948 > TO RIGHT TURN/BRAKE >, this wire provides power to the right turn signal. This wire has power anytime the turn signal is in the up/right position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position. For vehicles with integrated turn/brake signals, this wire is also the brake light power and has power anytime the brake pedal is pressed or the hazard switch is activated. This wire can be seen in the Tail Section Schematics on pages 104 & 105 .
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TESTING THE SYSTEM
Use a small (10 amps or less) battery charger to power up the vehicle for the first time to test the circuits. If there is a problem anywhere, the battery charger's low amperage and internal circuit breaker will provide circuit protection.
•
Make sure the negative
(-) battery cable is connected to the frame or engine block, and make sure there is a ground between the engine and frame. The negative battery cable should still be disconnected from the
Battery
•
Connect the positive (+) battery cable to the positive side of the battery and make sure the other end of this cable is connected to the B+ side of the starter solenoid.
•
At this point connect the 8 ga.
RED from the MIDI fuse to the positive side of the battery, either through the starter lug or the battery lug.
•
Connect the Battery Charger's NEGATIVE cable to the automobile chassis, engine block, or to the disconnected Negative Battery cable. Do NOT connect the Battery
Charger's NEGATIVE cable to the Battery.
•
Connect the Battery Charger's POSITIVE cable to the automobile's positive battery terminal lug.
•
INDIVIDUALLY turn on each light, ignition, wiper circuit, etc. and check for proper operation. Turn off each component before testing another.
Note: If you try to test more than one circuit at a time, the charger will not provide enough amperage for each circuit to work correctly.
•
After all circuits have been checked, disconnect the battery charger and attach the vehicle's negative (ground) battery cable to the battery.
•
Once testing is complete, re-install any panels, lens, or other parts that were removed during the harness installation. You are now finished installing this Painless Harness, congratulations!
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Color
Blue
Light Blue
Tan
Tan
Brown
Brown
Light Green
Light Green
Green
Grey /White
Color
White
Red
Red
Purple
WIRE INDEX
•
The index is listed in the same order in which the manual instructed components to be connected.
•
The BLUE descriptions indicate sections found throughout the harness.
•
ORIGIN indicates where the opposite end of this wire is.
Gauge
18
18
16
16
18
18
16
16
14
18
Pink
Color
Light Green 18
Lt.Blue
/Black 18
Purple /White 18
Red 18
Orange
White
Gauge
14
14
16
Gauge
14
10
10
12
HEADLIGHT SECTION
Wire Print
#925 TO RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL
#926 TO LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL
#909 TO HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM
#909 TO HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM
#927 TO FRONT PARK LIGHTS
#927 TO FRONT PARK LIGHTS
#908 TO HEADLIGHT HIGH BEAM
#908 TO HEADLIGHT HIGH BEAM
#924 TO HORN
#901 ACCESSORY/RELAY ACT.
ENGINE SECTION
Wire Print
#931 TO IGNITION SWITCH (COIL IGNITION)
TO TEMP SENDER #921 TO TEMP GAUGE
TO OIL SENDER #922 TO OIL GAUGE
COIL (-) #923 TACHOMETER
#954 TO ELECTRIC CHOKE
#917 TO BRAKE SWITCH (POWER B+)
#918 BRAKE SWITCH OUTPUT
START/CHARGE SECTION
Wire Print
#914 TO ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER
#915 TO ALTERNATOR OUPTUT POST
#916 TO BATTERY SOURCE
#919 TO STARTER SOLENOID
Origin
Turn Switch
Turn Switch
Dimmer Switch
Dimmer Switch
Headlight Switch
Headlight Switch
Dimmer Switch
Dimmer Switch
Horn Relay
Accessory
Origin
Fuse Block
Instrument Panel
Instrument Panel
Instrument Panel
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Turn Switch
Origin
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
NSS/ Ign. Switch
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Color
Light Green
Tan
Blue / Yellow
Color
Red /Black
Orange
Blue / Yellow
Brown
Brown
Brown
Gauge
12
14
14
18
18
14
Color
White
Blue
Light Blue
Green
Yellow
Brown
Purple
Black
Gauge
14
14
14
Color Gauge
Red
Red
Orange
Brown
Purple
12
12
12
16
12
Gauge
16
18
18
16
16
14
16
18
DIMMER SWITCH SECTION
Wire Print
#908 DIMMER SWITCH
#909 DIMMER SWITCH
TO DIMMER SWITCH #907 TO HEADLIGHT SWITCH
HEADLIGHT SWITCH SECTION
Wire Print
#928 TO HEADLIGHT SWITCH (POWER B+)
#959 TO HEADLIGHT SWITCH (POWER B+)
TO DIMMER SWITCH #907 TO HEADLIGHT SWITCH
#927 TO FRONT PARK LIGHTS
#930 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTING
#929 TO TAIL LIGHTS
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH SECTION
Wire Print
#918 BRAKE LIGHT POWER
#925 RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL
#926 LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL
#948 TO RIGHT TURN/BRAKE
#949 TO LEFT TURN/BRAKE
#951 TO EMERGENCY FLASHER SWITCH
#952 TURN SIGNAL SWITCH POWER (IGN
#953 TO HORN SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH SECTION
Wire Print
#934 TO IGNITION SWITCH POWER B+
#934 TO IGNITION SWITCH POWER B+
#933 TO IGNITION SWITCH "IGN" TERMINAL
#932 TO IGNITION SWITCH ACCESSORY TERMINAL
#919 TO STARTER SOLENOID
Origin
Headlight Section
Headlight Section
Headlight Switch
Origin
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Dimmer Switch
Headlight Section
Instrument Panel
Tail Section
Origin
Brake Switch
Headlight Section
Headlight Section
Tail Section
Tail Section
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Origin
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Starter/NSS
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Color
Blue
Light Blue
Red /White
Light Green
Lt.Blue
/Black
Purple /White
Pink
Brown
Green
Gauge
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
Red
Color
Red /Black
Color
Grey /White
Grey /White
Blue
White
Color
Yellow
Green
Brown
Brown
Orange
Pink
Gauge
18
18
Gauge
18
18
16
18
Gauge
16
16
16
16
18
18
INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION
Wire Print
#938 TO RIGHT TURN INDICATOR
#937 TO LEFT TURN INDICATOR
#935 TO VOLTMETER SOURCE (DASH POWER B+)
< TO TEMP SENDER #921 TO TEMP GAUGE >
< TO OIL SENDER #922 TO OIL GAUGE >
< COIL (-) #923 TACHOMETER >
< FUEL SENDER #939 FUEL GAUGE >
#930 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTING
#936 TO HIGH BEAM INDICATOR
RADIO SECTION
Wire Print
#940 RADIO BATTERY POWER
#941 RADIO POWER (IGN)
ACCESSORY SECTION
Wire Print
#906 ACCESSORY POWER (IGN)
#901 ACCESSORY/RELAY ACT.
#905 TO WIPER SWITCH (IGN)
#945 TO ACCESSORY (CONSTANT HOT)
TAIL SECTION
Wire Print
#949 TO LEFT TURN/BRAKE
#948 TO RIGHT TURN/BRAKE
#929 TO TAIL LIGHTS
#929 TO TAIL LIGHTS
#950 TO THIRD BRAKE LIGHT
< FUEL SENDER #939 FUEL GAUGE >
Origin
Turn Switch
Turn Switch
Fuse Block
Engine Section
Engine Section
Engine Section
Tail Section
Headlight Switch
Dimmer Switch
Origin
Fuse Block
Fuse Block
Origin
Fuse Block
Headlight Section
Headlight Section
Fuse Block
Origin
Turn Switch
Turn Switch
Headlight Switch
Headlight Switch
Brake Switch
Instrument Panel
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Painless Performance Products, LLC
Limited Warranty and Return Policy
Chassis harnesses, fuel injection harnesses, and Trail Rocker units are covered under a lifetime warranty.
All other products manufactured and/or sold by Painless Performance are warranted to the original purchaser to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use. Painless Performance will repair or replace defective products without charge during the first 12 months from the purchase date. No products will be considered for warranty without a copy of the purchase receipt showing the seller's name, address, and date of purchase. You must return the product to the dealer you purchased it from to initiate warranty procedures.
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Painless Performance Products LLC
2501 Ludelle Street
Fort Worth, TX 76105
Phone (817) 244-6212

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