file - Scotia Homes
HOME OWNER’S
INFORMATION PACK
for
Dubford,
Bridge of Don
(applicable to ground and first floor self-contained apartments)
www.scotia-homes.co.uk
Please read this document in conjunction with the NHBC booklet ‘Guide
to your new home – A practical guide to looking after your new home’
Rev. 2 10.03.15
Contents
Page
GENERAL MAINTENANCE AND SAFETY ____________________________ 4
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR GAS-FIRED CENTRAL HEATING,
HOT WATER AND COLD WATER SYSTEMS __________________________ 4
HOMESERVE EMERGENCY COVER _________________________________ 6
RADIATOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND RADIATOR NOTES__________ 7
HEATING AND HOT WATER INSTALLATION ________________________ 8
GAS SYSTEM _______________________________________________________ 8
HOT AND COLD WATER SERVICES _________________________________ 9
KITCHENS ________________________________________________________ 10
EXTRACTOR FANS (DMEV SYSTEM) ________________________________ 10
VENTILATION AND AVOIDING CONDENSATION __________________ 11
COMMUNAL DIGITAL TELEVISION AND SATELLITE INSTALLATION12
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION _____________________________________ 12
WINDOWS ________________________________________________________ 12
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION14
IF AN ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT FAILS ________________________________ 15
SMOKE, HEAT & CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS / ALARMS ______ 15
EXTERNAL DOORS ________________________________________________ 16
INTERNAL DOORS ________________________________________________ 17
WALL TILING _____________________________________________________ 17
SHOWER WALL PANELLING (WHERE FITTED) _____________________ 17
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FLOOR FINISHES _________________________________________________ 17
ROOF SPACE (WHERE APPLICABLE) _______________________________ 18
CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS, PARTITIONS, FLOORS & CEILINGS ____ 18
FIXING TO WALLS, CEILINGS OR FLOORS – IMPORTANT NOTICE __ 20
EXTERNAL FIXINGS ______________________________________________ 20
HIGH PERFORMANCE KEIM MASONRY PAINT _____________________ 21
K REND EXTERIOR FEATURES ____________________________________ 21
MOCK CHIMNEYS _________________________________________________ 21
EFFLORESCENCE ON EXTERNAL WALLS __________________________ 21
EXTERNAL AREAS ________________________________________________ 22
RADON MEMBRANE ______________________________________________ 23
ROOF RAINWATER SYSTEM _______________________________________ 23
SURFACE AND RAIN WATER DRAINAGE CONSIDERATIONS ________ 24
METERS __________________________________________________________ 25
LOCAL AUTHORITY REFUSE AND RECYCLING COLLECTION_______ 26
COUNCIL TAX ____________________________________________________ 26
BUS SERVICE _____________________________________________________ 27
SCHEDULE OF TEST CERTIFICATES _______________________________ 29
SCHEDULE OF MATERIALS ________________________________________ 30
NOTE:
The information contained in this document is for our standard apartment types
and may not cover any specific variations requested by you.
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GENERAL MAINTENANCE AND SAFETY
Regular maintenance work is required for all homes to keep them at their best in the years to
come and to ensure that they continue to be a safe home environment. We recommend that you
employ competent tradesmen/contractors to carry out the maintenance work, however if you
decide to carry out maintenance work (or alteration works) on your home yourself, then there
follows a list of some of the basic rules to bear in mind;
Always plan the job thoroughly in advance.
Consider any risks - is there adequate ventilation? Do you need any safety equipment? Can the
job be done another way to make it safer? If you are in doubt then do not attempt the job
yourself – seek advice from a professional or employ a skilled tradesman or contractor.
Check any materials you are going to use for any warnings or precautions and heed the material
safety recommendations.
Always use the right tools for the job and use them in accordance with their instructions.
If you intend to work at height please be aware of the risks involved. Try to avoid working at
height if at all possible but if you decide it is necessary then please make sure your ladder or
stepladder is in good condition and securely held in place. There is a large amount of information
and recommendations available on the subject of working at height on the internet or in most
good public libraries – take the time to familiarise yourself with the risks and recommendations
involved in working at height before carrying out the job.
If there is risk involved, try and avoid working alone.
Dispose of any surplus materials and waste according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
adherence to Local Authority waste regulations, and consideration for the environment.
Always keep a well stocked first aid kit.
Please also refer to your NHBC ‘Guide To Your New Home’ for more information on
maintenance.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR GAS-FIRED
CENTRAL HEATING, HOT WATER AND COLD
WATER SYSTEMS
Introduction
Your home has been fitted with a gas-fired heating system serving radiators and a domestic hot
water supply.
The gas–fired boiler is located in the utility room or kitchen (depending on the type of
apartment) and you will find the operating and maintenance instructions for the boiler in your
handover pack.
If, after referring to the user information on boiler controls in the boiler instruction manual, you
are unable to find the answers to any boiler problems and the problem is an emergency which
has arisen during the first 24 months after your legal date of entry to the house, then please
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contact HomeServe (please see section on HomeServe below for more details). If the fault is not
an emergency (as described in the HomeServe cover summary) then please contact Scotia during
normal office hours.
You are responsible for the annual maintenance and servicing of the boiler, this should be
arranged through any reputable, Gas Safe registered, plumbing and heating contractor.
Heating and Domestic Hot Water Controls
The system has the following controls:1. Boiler isolating switch.
2. Programmable Room Thermostat
3. Thermostatic radiator valves to radiators (except on the by pass radiator/s)
1. Boiler Isolating Switch
This switch will be found on the wall next to the boiler.
This switch is to isolate the electrical supply to the boiler and should be left on at all times.
Only use this switch if a fault develops on the boiler.
2. Programmable Room Thermostat
Your home has a programmable room thermostat located on the wall in the utility or kitchen
(depending on the apartment type) and linked to a sensor located typically in the hall.
The programmable room thermostat controls the boiler, telling it when you require central
heating and hot water. The programmer has the facility to give several on/off times.
Temperatures can also be selected for each on/off time. When the heating is selected on the
system it will operate until the set temperature is achieved. Note that the temperature is
measured in the hallway by the remote temperature sensor. The remote temperature sensor
should not be covered or otherwise obstructed as this may impair its ability to accurately measure
the temperature.
When the system is selected off, the boiler will not operate unless the temperature in the hallway
drops below the setback temperature selected. You can select your minimum desired
temperature, normally this can be set between 12 and 16°C.
Please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions in your handover pack for the programmable
room thermostat for further instructions.
3. Thermostatic Radiator Valves
Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRV’s) are fitted for comfort control i.e. 1 – low level heat, 5 –
maximum level heat. They are fitted to all radiators except radiators located where there is a
room thermostat sensor. They are essential to the full efficiency of your heating system and allow
you to lower temperatures in unoccupied rooms thus reducing heating costs. TRV’s sense room
temperature changes in individual rooms and adjust the flow of heated water through the
radiators to maintain the desired temperature. Depending on level of comfort required, 2 – 3
should be selected.
Please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions in your Handover Pack for full details.
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Central Heating
Should your central heating or hot water fail to work, please ensure that all of the procedures laid
out in the boiler manufacturer's literature are followed. Failure to do this may result in a charge
being made for an unnecessary call out.
Bleeding of Radiators
This should not be required with a sealed system. However, radiators feeling warm at the bottom
but cold at the top would indicate air in the radiator. There are airing points normally at the top
of the radiator. Use an air-bleeding key to turn clockwise to reduce air. You can do this by
inserting the key and turning it anti-clockwise, then once the air stops a small amount of water
will be discharged, quickly turn the key clockwise to tighten. Check pressure gauge on boiler, if it
is below that recommended in the manufacturer's instructions, then it will be necessary to top up
the system. See enclosed boiler user guide for full instructions.
HOMESERVE EMERGENCY COVER
Your home is covered under HomeServe’s Home Emergency Assistance Cover for a period of
24 months from your legal date of entry. This service provides emergency cover for your heating
system in the event of a loss of central heating or hot water providing the equipment has been
maintained and serviced in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
It also extends to blocked drains, burst pipes and damaged window and door locks where there
is a risk to security. In an emergency situation (as defined in the Cover Summary as provided to
you direct by HomeServe) where any of the above is affected you should contact HomeServe
directly instead of Scotia. At the time of writing, the emergency contact number for HomeServe
is 0800 247999.
Where any problem is not classed as an emergency by HomeServe you should contact the Scotia
customer care department during normal office hours.
Examples of what is covered/ not covered;
Examples of what is covered
Examples of what is not covered
Internal Plumbing & Drainage
Showers including the shower unit, controls, outlet or
shower head
Repairs to your internal plumbing and drains including
where there is a loss of water to your property, blocked
drainage and leaks
Replacement of water tanks/radiators, thermostatic
radiator valves, hot water cylinders and sanitary ware
Clearing blocked toilets and waste pipes
External Drainage
Shared drains
Clearing total blockages to your drainage pipes
External guttering, rainwater downpipes, rainwater
drains and soakaways
Repair of a collapsed external drain
Electrical Emergency & Breakdown
An emergency caused by, or breakdown of, the
domestic electrical wiring supply system, including
permanent damage caused by a power cut
Security
Making your property secure in the event of broken
All non-permanent wiring/electrics, e.g. kettles, fairy
lights or any other and appliances with plugs
Shower unit or immersion heater unit
Doors (and windows) which do not secure your
property, such as internal porch doors, internal doors
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locks for external windows and doors that are your
responsibility
and internal conservatory doors
Gas Central Heating Breakdown
Boilers which have been declared beyond economical
repair (i.e. if the cost of parts incl. VAT is more than
85% of the retail price of the boiler)
Failure of breakdown of the external locking
mechanisms to doors or windows for outbuildings or a
garage
A leak within or breakdown of the ‘natural gas’ gas
central heating boiler, the central heating system and
its associated pipework
Drain down and isolate leaking water tanks, radiators
and hot water cylinders
If you suffer a gas leak, you should first call the
National Grid Emergency Service immediately on 0800
111 999
Electrical Heating Breakdown
Repairs or replacement of the part(s) of the heater or
replacement heaters.
Oil Fired Central Heating Breakdown
A breakdown of the boiler and/or system
Drain down and isolate leaking water tanks, radiators
and hot water cylinders
Repairs if we have advised you to carry out
maintenance work to prevent a future breakdown (until
that work is complete)
Repairs, where due to obsolete parts, we can no
longer cover you (the policy will continue without boiler
cover until the boiler is replaced)
Any repair to heaters which are beyond economical
repair (if the cost of parts incl. VAT, is more than 85%
of the retail price of the heater)
Heated towel rails, infra red heaters, electric fires,
skirting or kick-space floor heaters
Boilers which have been declared beyond economical
repair (i.e. if the cost of parts incl. VAT is more than
85% of the retail price of the boiler)
Repairs if we have advised you to carry out
maintenance work to prevent a future breakdown (until
that work is complete)
Repairs, where due to obsolete parts, we can no
longer effect a repair
RADIATOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND RADIATOR
NOTES
Users should ensure that those who may come into close proximity to hot radiators are aware of
the risks of burns.
Users should take any necessary steps to minimise the risks of burns from hot radiators (for
example where there are very young children in the room). Where applicable, consideration
should be given to placing guards in front of the radiators or reducing the temperature of
individual radiators by turning the thermostatic radiator valve to a low setting.
Radiators are heavy items and are securely fastened to the wall on installation, with appropriate
fasteners to secure the radiator bracket and suit construction of the wall.
Decorative covers (such as the decorative perforated MDF or timber covers that you can
purchase from DIY stores) will significantly reduce the output of a radiator and thermostatic
radiator valves should not be inside these radiator covers (as this will stop the valves from
working efficiently). These covers are not recommended as they will, by consequence, impede an
individual room’s heat requirement, which your new heating system has been designed to
provide. The only exception to this would be the comments above regarding safety of young
children. If you do need to fit a radiator cover for this purpose then you should use one of the
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metal mesh type covers, similar to a fire place guard, which will not impede the flow of heat from
your radiator into the room.
Radiators should not normally be used for the mounting of clothes airers, cat beds or other such
fixtures. The mounting brackets of the radiator are designed to support the weight of the radiator
itself and water contents, allowing for an adequate safety margin, additional weight may
compromise this margin and cause risk of failure, leaks and potential hot water burns.
Appropriate facilities are required by Building Regulations for internal and/or external drying
facilities and these are provided (please see “Ventilation and avoiding condensation”). Radiatormounted airers and other devices may lead to excessive internal moisture and any chips/damage
caused to the radiator itself may compromise the protective coating and potentially lead to
corrosion/failure, which may not be covered by warranties.
Note regarding curtains – Heavy curtains or lined curtains drawn over the windows are an
effective way of reducing any heat loss through the windows during the autumn and winter
months. The sooner you draw the curtains in the evening the more heat you will save. However,
please note that if there is a radiator located below the window, and the curtains are too long and
cover the radiator then much of the heat generated by the radiators will not find its way into the
room and will instead be wasted out the window. Curtains covering the thermostatic radiator
valves will also interfere with the operation of the valves.
HEATING AND HOT WATER INSTALLATION
Heating and hot water are provided by an Alpha InTec 34C wall mounted, high efficiency
condensing combination boiler with a gas saver flue gas heat recovery unit.
A thermal store may also have been installed (the installation of a thermal store depends on the
apartment type).
Please note that to obtain the maximum performance and efficiency benefits the gas saver flue
(and thermal store where fitted) must be switched on. Turning off the gas saver flue will mean
you lose efficiency benefits. Turning off the thermal store (where fitted) will mean you lose
efficiency benefits and the available volume of hot water will be significantly reduced.
A copy of the user manual, installation & service instructions, inspection, commissioning and
service record logbooks for the system are enclosed with your handover pack.
An annual gas service of the boiler and inspection/maintenance of the associated
equipment, in accordance with the above instructions, is required to be carried out by
Gas Safe registered personnel. Failure to carry this out will invalidate the manufacturer’s
and NHBC warranties.
GAS SYSTEM
Never obstruct gas boiler flue outlets or any ventilation, if provided, to the boiler. Never tamper
with the gas installation or equipment.
Any alterations to the gas supply pipework or work in construction with any gas appliance
should only be carried out by GasSafe registered personnel.
If you suspect a gas leak:
1.
Extinguish all naked flames.
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2.
Do not use any electrical switches or appliances
3.
Turn off the gas at the meter.
4.
Open all doors and windows.
5.
Call the National Gas Emergency Service on its emergency number which is in the
telephone directory under ‘GAS, Gas Emergency’. There is no call-out charge. The
current emergency number at date of preparation of this document is 0800 111999.
This service operates 24 hours a day and 365 days a year.
HOT AND COLD WATER SERVICES
Mains Cold Water Service
The stopcock for the incoming cold water service is typically located under the kitchen or utility
room sink (depends on your apartment type).
There is also a single mains incoming water service with a stopcock, which is located in the
boundary box in the footpath.
Make sure that you know where all mains water stopcocks are located so that you can turn them
off quickly in an emergency.
Domestic Hot Water
The Alpha Intec 34C boiler produces domestic hot water in an energy efficient manner and the
operation of this is fully explained in the enclosed Instruction Manuals. Please also refer to the
notes in the Heating and Hot Water Installation section above.
External Water Tap (if fitted)
Where there is a risk of severe frost, water supply to tap should be isolated, pipe work drained,
and the tap should be left in the open position. We also recommend fitting an insulated external
tap cover to outside taps during winter months- these covers are available from any good
gardening or DIY store.
Sanitary Ware/Taps
Sanitary ware should be cleaned in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions which are
enclosed in your Handover Pack.
The manufacturer of the bath recommends the use of an anti slip mat when a shower is installed
over the bath.
Thermostatic mixing valve
A thermostatic mixing valve to limit the hot water temperature at the bath tap to a maximum of
46°C is fitted below the bath.
It is recommended that initial temperature checks are carried out six weeks after occupation of
the property, and then an annual check is to be carried out to test the water temperature to
ensure the maximum limit of 46°C is not exceeded.
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Hot Water Temperature (kitchen sinks and wash hand basins)
The hot water from your kitchen sink taps and wash hand basins can be very hot depending
upon your boiler settings. The hot water can initially have a low temperature as cooler water
sitting in the pipes is discharged but can then become hot suddenly. Appropriate care should be
taken to avoid risks of scalding.
KITCHENS
Kitchen Appliances, Sink Units and Worktops
Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for operating and cleaning of kitchen appliances, sinks,
units and worktops, these are enclosed in your Handover Pack.
Cooker Hoods fitted with charcoal filters – Please note that the kitchen cooker hood has been
installed for use in the recirculation mode and active charcoal filters have been fitted. The
charcoal filters normally require changing after every three/four months or more frequently if
used more than 3 hours a day. Replacement charcoal filters are available from on-line retailers.
Please refer to the instruction manual for your cooker hood which is contained in your
Handover Pack for more details, and for other important operating and maintenance
information for your cooker hood.
Connecting Appliances – (where applicable)
When fitting a dishwasher or washing machine, please ensure the blanked end of the waste pipe
tee piece has been removed. Note – this is not applicable where a ‘standing waste’ pipe has been
provided. Please also ensure that the water supplies and wastes are securely connected to the
pipework.
Please also note that, where Scotia have not installed a washing machine but have left a space for
one with a cold water supply adjacent to it, then the home owner is responsible for removal of
the cap that has been fitted to the cold water washing machine valve – please ensure you remove
this cap before making the water connection to your washing machine. Please also ensure that
the appliance water supply and waste pipe is securely connected to the house pipework before
turning the appliance on.
EXTRACTOR FANS (dMEV SYSTEM)
Greenwood Airvac Unity CV2GIP mechanical extract fans have been fitted in your home. These
are continuously running single point dMEV (decentralised Mechanical Extract Ventilation) fans
with GIP (Guaranteed Installed Performance). The fans run continuously at a low (extremely
quiet) speed and are automatically ‘boosted’ to a higher speed when required (the fans boost
automatically using their humidity sensor). It is essential that the fans remain in operation at all
times (unless switched off for maintenance) to maintain good air quality.
Pictures of the Greenwood Airvac CV2GIP fan
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This is an energy efficient fan designed to provide an economical ventilation solution to the
modern home. It utilises SMART Technology to control humidity and boost run on times to
minimise the periods of time when it is running at its highest speed, minimising nuisance running
noise and unnecessary energy wastage and heat loss typically associated with ‘traditional’ extract
fans.
Please note that, in conjunction with Greenwood Airvac, where ‘wet rooms’ (such as en-suites,
bathrooms and the like) have windows we have installed trickle vents in the windows- these are
to allow you to provide extra ventilation to these rooms if required. The statement in the fan
User/Homeowner Guide saying that trickle vents should not be installed in the same rooms as
the fan can be ignored.
More information on these ventilation fans can be found in the User/Homeowner Guide
contained in your handover pack. Please read these instructions carefully to ensure their
continuing smooth operation.
VENTILATION AND AVOIDING CONDENSATION
Condensation will be a problem in all new homes if adequate background heating and ventilation
is not used. All new homes need ‘running-in’ and we recommend that you read carefully the
section within the NHBC booklet: Guide to your new home, ‘Reducing Condensation’.
Most windows are fitted with “trickle” ventilators at the top of the window. These can be
opened or closed to allow more or less trickle ventilation. If you close the window trickle vents
the dMEV fans described in the previous section will still continue to draw fresh air into your
home, however, particularly during the ‘running-in’ period we recommend that they are left fully
or partially open to maximise the fresh air entering your home.
The following are general guidelines for your information.
To deal with condensation, take these two steps:
1. Produce less moisture
Ordinary daily activities produce a lot of moisture very quickly.
Cooking: To reduce the amount of moisture in the kitchen, cover pans and do not leave kettles
boiling, open a window to allow excessive amounts of steam to be ventilated to the outside.
Washing clothes: Put washing outdoors to dry if you can. Alternatively, please dry the washing in
the bathroom (which is designed to accommodate drying clothes) with the door closed – the
humidistat function of the extractor fan will help to remove the moist air to the outside (also if
weather conditions permit – the bathroom window can be opened). If you have a tumble dryer,
ventilate it to the outside (unless it is the self-condensing type). D.I.Y. kits are available for this.
Drying clothes on radiator-mounted airers or on airers in rooms other than the bathroom may
lead to problems associated with excessive internal moisture.
2. Ventilate to remove moisture
You can ventilate your home without making draughts.
Some ventilation is required to expel the moisture, which is produced all the time, mostly just by
normal breathing of occupants. Keep a small window ajar or a trickle ventilator open when
someone is in the room.
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You need much more ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom during cooking, washing up,
bathing and drying clothes. This means opening windows to assist in the ventilation of moisture
to the outside and ensuring that the extractor fans are in full working order.
Close the kitchen and bathroom doors when these rooms are in use. This helps prevent the
moisture reaching other rooms, especially bedrooms, which are often colder and more likely to
get condensation.
COMMUNAL DIGITAL TELEVISION AND SATELLITE
INSTALLATION
A television aerial socket has been provided within the Lounge area (specific room may depend
on apartment type, please refer to plans), to which a communal digital aerial and satellite signal is
fed. Your individual alterations may have requested additional points or a ‘returned’ signal to
additional points in other rooms. Further information is provided in the Handover Pack.
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION
The main telephone point is located in the Lounge area (specific room may depend on apartment
type, please refer to plans), it is compatible with any BT approved phone.
It is your responsibility to arrange connection to your chosen telephone service provider and
arrange final connection of secondary socket wiring to main point.
WINDOWS
Your home has white uPVC Sheerframe 8000 (Nairn 8000) system ‘Tilt + Turn’ inwards opening
windows, all manufactured and supplied by C R Smith of Dunfermline.
The windows are fitted with lockable window handles to all ground floor windows and standard
(non-locking) handles to all first floor windows. Please refer to C R Smith’s ‘window and door
operating & maintenance guidance’ for more information on opening your Tilt + Turn windows.
Please note that the Tilt opening function is intended for general day to day use. The ‘turn’
opening function (where whole sash is opened into the room) is intended for cleaning and
emergency escape purposes only. Care should be taken when using the ‘turn’ open function that
the sash (or the trickle ventilator installed in the head of the sash) does not cause damage to the
plasterboard window ingoes when fully open. The window should never be left unattended when
open in the cleaning/escape ‘turn’ position.
A key is supplied to operate the lockable handles and care should be taken to prevent damage to
the handle by trying to force it open when lock is engaged.
The first floor handles are non-locking to comply with the requirements of the Building
Regulations in respect of emergency fire escape. However, the Building Regulations
recognise that individual home owners may want to fit additional locking mechanisms to first
floor windows after they have moved in to their new home (for example where there are small
children in the room) and if you wish to install any of the large variety of ‘child restrictor catches’
or any other additional locking mechanism that are available to your first floor windows then
please note that they must be a ‘quick release’ type (without a key which might be lost) - a type
which does not hinder escape through the window in the event of an emergency. The restrictor
must also be suitable for the type of window and we also recommend that they are fitted by a
skilled tradesman and that particular care is taken to ensure that they are fitted strictly in
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accordance with the restrictor catch manufacturer’s instructions. An incorrectly fitted additional
locking mechanism can damage the window and lead to window guarantee problems. Advice can
also be obtained from the window supplier (refer to the Schedule of Materials for contact
information).
Glass may be cleaned with either a proprietary household glass cleaner (following the
manufacturer’s instructions) or a mild, neutral pH, diluted detergent. Glass can be easily
scratched, therefore ensure heavy grime or dirt is removed carefully using soapy water.
uPVC frames should be cleaned every 3 months with a soap and water solution.
A non abrasive proprietary cleaner suitable for uPVC may be used for more stubborn blemishes
following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Avoid using solvent based or acid based detergents or abrasive cleaners as these will damage the
uPVC frames and glass.
Please refer refer to the C R Smith ‘Window & Door Operating & Maintenance Guidance’
(contained within your Handover Pack) for more information including recommendations on
lubricating and general maintenance.
Notes regarding glass coatings:
To comply with current building regulations all double glazed units installed in your home will
have a low emissivity coating. Low emissivity (Low-e) glazing is a vital component of an energy
efficient window or French door. It has a surface coating that allows short wavelength heat from
the winter sun to enter your home through the glazing, while reflecting back into the room the
long wavelength heating produced by your heating system. This reduces heating costs and
minimises internal condensation. Please note that this Low-e coating has considerable advantages
but you should be aware that there are some minor features, due to the coating of the glass,
which you can see in some or all of the following ways;
• As a tint in the glass
• As a ‘haze’ when viewing through the glass at some angles and in some lighting conditions
• By the appearance of condensation on the outside of the glass under certain weather
conditions (which is positive proof that the glass is preventing heat loss from your house)
• There may be minor blemishes visible arising from the coating process and the tint may also
change between individual double glazed units if the units are made from different batches of
glass. These are not detrimental to the functioning of the unit and are not a defect.
Please note that if you are replacing any of your double glazed units in the future you should
ensure that your glazier uses low emissivity glass in your windows.
Note regarding glass specifications:
In addition to the note regarding Low-e coatings above, you should also be aware that certain
windows may have either laminated or toughened safety glass installed. This ‘safety glazing’ is
installed to comply with the Building Regulations. Also, some of the windows have acoustic
rated double glazed units fitted (to bedrooms and in some cases to living rooms).
Any future replacement glazing units should be to the same specifications as originally fitted.
Any competent glazier will be able to identify the glazing specification used and you should
ensure that lower specifications are not used.
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Note regarding external sealant to windows and doors;
The windows and, if applicable, French doors (and external doors) have an external polysulphide
sealant bead between the uPVC frame and the external render bead. This sealant bead is
designed to provide a tough weather-tight seal to these joints. The sealant beads should be
inspected at least once a year and if any signs of deterioration of this bead are found it should be
repaired or replaced with an equal specification exterior polysulphide sealant.
Manufacturer’s window & door operating & maintenance guidance;
PVCu Tilt & Turn Windows
Operation
Your windows are designed to open in two ways. They can tilt inwards from the top to
approximately 30 degrees to provide ventilation, or turn inwards, like a door, for cleaning or
emergency egress.
To tilt your window, move the handle so that it is in the horizontal position. Pull the handle
towards you. The window will tilt inwards stopping at approximately 30 degrees.
To open your window like a door for cleaning or emergency escape (turn function), move the
handle to the vertical position then pull it towards you.
To close your window, using the handle, push the window into the closed position. Maintaining
light pressure on the handle move it until the handle is pointing directly to the floor.
Maintenance
To ensure the smooth operation of your tilt & turn windows you must carry out the following
maintenance at least once a year:
1. Lubricate or oil all moving parts & locking points, using only clean and non-resinous
grease or oil.
2. Check all components for looseness or wear. If necessary tighten fixing screws.
3. Only clean your windows with a mild, neutral pH, diluted detergent. Never use
aggressive, acid based detergents or scouring powders because they can damage the
protective surface of your windows and window hardware.
4. After cleaning the hardware, surface treat with a silicone and corrosion free (i.e. nonacidic) oil, e.g. sewing machine oil.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ELECTRICAL
INSTALLATION
The electrical Consumer Control Unit for your home is located in the vestibule cupboard
(ground floor apartments) or ground floor cupboard (first floor apartments). It contains a
labelled main isolator, RCDs and circuit breakers or “trip switches”.
The consumer control unit is a device that controls the electricity supply to your home, splitting
the incoming electric supply into the various electrical circuits around your home.
The consumer control unit contains the Mains Switch, RCBOs (Residential Current circuit
Breaker with Overload protection), RCDs (Residual Current Device) and MCBs (Miniature
Circuit Breakers). The main switch is normally ‘ON’. In order to isolate all supplies, switch to
‘OFF’.
- 14 -
There are normally two RCDs in your consumer unit. Each RCD protects a section of the
consumer unit. They are designed to ‘trip’ when there is an electrical leakage to earth thereby
giving protection to personnel. An RCD would normally trip before an MCB.
These circuit breakers and RCDs are all designed to trip if there is a fault in a circuit, or if a faulty
appliance is switched on. This helps to prevent serious accidents that may result in damage and
injury. Under fault conditions these will be in the ‘tripped position’.
IF AN ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT FAILS
A circuit may trip OFF. If this happens, you should follow the procedure set out below.
1. Check with the aid of a torch whether the RCD (mid position) or MCB (fully down) is in the
OFF position.
2.
Switch RCD (press down then push to the fully up position) or MCB to ON position.
3.
If the RCD does not re-set, switch off all the MCBs, re-set the RCD then switch on each
MCB individually until the faulty circuit is identified.
4.
To identify the cause of the fault switch off all appliances in that circuit, re-set the RCD
and MCB, then switch back on each appliance until the defective appliance is found.
Over-filling kettles, irons etc. can cause this type of fault.
N.B.
It is important to ensure that the bulbs used in light fittings do not exceed the rating for that
fitting.
NOTE: Electricity is dangerous and can kill. If you are unsure of any
aspect of your electrical installation, please consult a qualified
electrical contractor.
SMOKE, HEAT & CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS
/ ALARMS
Your apartment is fitted with smoke detectors, typically located in the halls and living
room/lounge areas (locations depend on your apartment type). Also a heat detector may have
been fitted in the kitchen area and a CO (Carbon Monoxide) alarm may also have been fitted in
the utility room or room containing the gas fired boiler.
These alarms are mains operated with battery back up and connected to bedroom lighting
circuits. The smoke detectors are extremely sensitive to smoke and dust particles of any kind and
can be activated by the likes of burning toast. The heat detector in the kitchen area is less likely
to cause ‘false alarm’ problems as it is not responsive to any type of smoke or fumes, only heat
such as generated by a chip pan type fire (but not from smoke caused by burning toast or
similar). The CO detector monitors Carbon Monoxide levels and its alarm will activate if safe
levels are exceeded.
You must read and fully familiarise yourself with the instructions for the smoke, heat and CO
detectors. Copies of the instructions are contained in your hand over pack and are also available
- 15 -
for downloading from the manufacturer’s website- the instructions contain vital information on
the operation and maintenance of your detectors.
If any of the smoke detectors are activated you should check the property and, if no reason for
its activation is found, it could be a nuisance alarm caused by cooking smoke reaching one of
your smoke detectors or something similar. If this occurs, open a window to clear the smoke or
dust and the alarm will cease and test/ maintain the detector as described in its instructions.
If the heat detector activates you should follow the advice contained in the heat detector
instructions.
If the CO alarm activates please carry out the instructions contained in your carbon monoxide
alarm instructions. Depending on the type of CO alarm fitted these instructions typically include
the following -ventilate the area, turn off appliances, evacuate the property, get medical help for
anyone suffering from the effects of CO poisoning, ring your gas supplier or other supplier on
their emergency number, do not re-enter the property until the alarm has stopped (if the alarm
has been silenced by pressing the Test/Hush button, wait at least 5 minutes to allow the alarm to
check that the CO has cleared). Do not use the fuel burning appliance(s) again until they have
been checked by an expert. In the case of gas appliances this must be a Registered Gas Installer.
To reset or to test the smoke, heat and CO detectors follow the manufacturer’s instructions as
enclosed in your Handover Pack.
The back up batteries should be changed as recommended by the manufacturer and an
intermittent beep normally indicates that the battery needs to be replaced. The CO detector
sensor module typically must be replaced after 5 years of operation (refer to its instructions).
EXTERNAL DOORS
All ironmongery should be cleaned on a regular basis using warm soapy water. Do not use
abrasive or corrosive material to clean the ironmongery as this will damage the finish to handles,
letter plate, eye viewer, chain and rain deflectors.
Glazing can be cleaned with warm soapy water, avoid using anything which may scratch the
glass.
The multi point locking system should be lubricated with WD40, or a similar product, on a
regular basis to ensure the smooth operating capabilities of the cylinder, handle and the locking
mechanism.
The weather sill at the base of the door (the threshold sill) should be kept clear of debris to allow
the drainage holes to function.
- 16 -
The rubber gaskets in the sill and door frame should also be checked periodically for damage and
replaced as required.
INTERNAL DOORS
Handles should be cleaned with a soft non abrasive cloth and for stubborn stains mild soapy
water may be used. Care should be taken to avoid scratching surface of handles.
The mechanism of the handle should be lubricated once a year with a light oil.
Hinges and latches/locks should be lubricated on a regular basis with WD40 or similar product.
WALL TILING
Wall tiles and in particular the grout between tiles should be regularly cleaned using a proprietary
tile/grout cleaner in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Grout should be inspected
and any areas which become loose should be replaced.
The sealant between the wall tiling and any worktops should be inspected and replaced as
necessary.
SHOWER WALL PANELLING (WHERE FITTED)
Laminate wall panelling (where fitted) should be cleaned by using hot water and a mild detergent
applied with soft cloths or soft nylon brush. Non scratch cleaners may also be used. On no
account should scouring pads, acid based toilet cleaners or limescale cleaners be used.
Wall panelling and shower enclosure/tray should be dried off after use. Abrasive or aggressive
cleaning products should not be used as they will damage the laminate surface of the panel.
The sealant around the base of the wall panel should be inspected and replaced as necessary to
prevent water ingress between the shower tray and the panelling.
FLOOR FINISHES
Please note that any wooden flooring or other feature flooring such as tiles or adhered
‘Karndean’ (or similar flooring) laid by you when you move into your home will not be lifted and
re-laid as a result of any maintenance work which may require access to the floor. If maintenance
work is required to any part of a floor or to any under-floor services we will require you to
arrange the lifting and replacement of any feature flooring to allow us access.
Notes regarding concrete floors (normally ground floors) – concrete floors in your home have
been finished to standard tolerances obtainable by the material. Before laying floor coverings
such as vinyl or wooden overlay flooring to concrete floors you should be aware that some
important steps should be taken by you;
(1) You should have your floor covering installer check the moisture content of the
concrete floor. This is particularly important if you are laying the floor covering
immediately after moving into your home, as the concrete floor may still be drying out
and moisture can affect some flooring materials. If necessary you should allow the
concrete floor to dry out sufficiently before laying any flooring which may be affected by
moisture or the concrete floor should be treated in accordance with the flooring
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supplier’s recommendations before installing any vinyl or wooden or other feature type
flooring.
(2) Concrete floors will normally need a self levelling screed applied prior to laying any vinyl
or overlay type floor covering, again in accordance with the floor covering installers
recommendations.
Notes regarding Chipboard Flooring - Chipboard flooring (normally to the first floors) should be
prepared in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations prior to fitting of vinyls, wooden
overlays or ceramic floor tiles. Also note that chipboard flooring may have service ducts installed
(sections of flooring which can be removed to allow access to pipes and other services). We have
installed these ducts so that they are level with the adjacent floor – however it should be noted
that because timber floors naturally shrink as they dry this drying shrinkage of the floor may
result in minor differences in level between the duct cover and the surrounding floor. This may
become evident with some types of thin floor coverings and your choice of floor coverings
should take this possibility into account.
Note regarding installation of carpets to staircases (where applicable)– carpet grippers must be
glued or screwed to timber staircases – not nailed. Scotia will accept no responsibility for risers
damaged due to nailing of carpet grippers.
ROOF SPACE (WHERE APPLICABLE)
The attic space, where applicable, has not been designed to allow for storage. Do not use the
attic space for storage. Flooring the roof space and using it for storage may cause deflection in
the roof structure.
The attic has mineral wool insulation between and over ceiling joists. This insulation can cause
skin irritation. If handling the insulation it is recommended that appropriate protective clothing
and equipment be worn.
Care should also be taken if entering the attic – the ceiling plasterboard between the joists will
not support your weight and there may be service pipes, extract fan ducting and cables hidden by
the insulation that you can damage by inadvertently stepping on them.
Where the attic access hatch is located in the first floor hall ceiling in close proximity to the
stairwell then particular care should be taken if you are entering or exiting the attic space to avoid
falling into the stairwell. Do not stand on or use the stairwell balustrade as a support if entering
or exiting the attic.
It is advised that you do not enter the attic space.
CONSTRUCTION OF WALLS, PARTITIONS, FLOORS
& CEILINGS
The following notes provide, for your information, outline details of the construction for each
part of your home. This information is generalised and particular areas of your home may differ
– always seek appropriate advice and carry out detailed investigation works before making any
alteration to your home in the future.
External walls:
The external walls comprise 100mm thick block-work (with render finish),
50mm wide cavity and EcoWalltf timber framed kit inner leaf. The timber
framed inner leaf comprises; a reflective breather membrane on the cavity
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side on a 9mm sheathing board, on 140mm thick load bearing timber studs
at maximum 600mm centres, with 140mm thick mineral wool insulation
(FrameTherm 35) between the studs, 30mm PIR insulation fitted to the
inside of the studs, and a reflective vapour control layer fitted on the inside
face of the PIR insulation. On the inside of the timber kit there is a 38mm
timber framed service void and 2 layers plasterboard lining. Safety Note –
all external walls are load bearing and designed to achieve apartment fire
and acoustic building regulation requirements and must not be altered
without getting professional advice.
Indicative diagram of a Typical EcoWall timber framed external wall for your information (note that
apartments have two layers of plasterboard internally);
Party walls:
(Walls between your property and adjoining neighbouring property - where
applicable). These walls comprise two 90mm thick timber panels with 9mm
sheathing boarding to the cavity side and a 50mm cavity between the
panels. Acoustic insulation is fitted between the timber studs. On the room
side a layer of 19mm thick plasterboard plank is fitted and then this is over
laid with 12.5mm plasterboard. Where there are sockets or other items of
electrical services installed on the party walls a service void is also formed
using 38mm thick timber framing overlaid with a layer of 12.5mm
plasterboard lining. Safety Note – all party walls are load bearing and are
constructed to a fire resistant/ acoustic specification – they must not be
altered in any way. If any damage occurs to plasterboard and plank linings
to then it must be repaired immediately.
All partitions:
Timber framed partitions with 15mm thick plasterboard each side. Mineral
wool acoustic insulation is fitted in the partitions to bedroom, bathroom
and the like areas. SAFETY NOTE – some internal walls are loadbearing
and have two layers of plasterboard fitted to each side. Do not remove or
alter load bearing partitions, or make substantial alterations to them,
without getting professional advice.
Ground floors:
Concrete floor slab on rigid insulation. The ground floor may also
incorporate a radon / gas membrane located under the floor – please refer
to the Section ‘Radon Membrane’ for more information.
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First floors (apartment separating floors);
Separating floors comprise engineered I joists with a 15mm decking board
on top of the joist with dynamic floor battens, acoustic insulation between
the battens, 19mm thick plank and finally an over-lay of 22mm thick
chipboard flooring. To the underside of the I joists are 2 layers of 15mm
thick plasterboard fixed to a resilient bar system which is fixed to the joists.
A layer of acoustic insulation is installed between the joists. Safety note – all
apartment separating floors are load bearing and designed in accordance
with the building regulations in respect of fire and acoustic requirements –
the separating floors must not be altered.
Top floor
ceilings:
Plasterboard fixed to the underside of the roof trusses.
Future alterations – should you consider making any alterations to your home in the
future such as altering the partition layout or forming a new opening through a wall you
should check relevant Local Authority permissions and/or use the services of a qualified
architect before starting.
The external wall service voids, internal partitions, 1st floors and attic space all have
services such as pipes and cables installed in them – refer to the safety precautions below
if installing any fixings into these parts of your home.
Appropriate proprietary fixings should always be used to suit the wall construction (see below).
FIXING TO WALLS, CEILINGS OR FLOORS –
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Wall fixings (for pictures, mirrors etc.) must be of the appropriate type for the type of walls
described above. Be very careful if nailing or drilling into walls, ceilings or floors to avoid contact
with any pipes or electric cables which may lie hidden behind the surface. We recommend that
you use a services detector (cable detector) before drilling or nailing – it can reduce the risk of
serious injury. If using power tools to install a fixing, you should always use a R.C.D. (residual
current device). You should also always check for pipes and cables before drilling or nailing into
floors or ceilings.
Note for any apartments with under-floor heating (if applicable) - you should never drill or nail
into any floor which has under-floor heating fitted.
In addition to the above please note that fixings should never be made to the following wall
areas:a)
Directly above or below any electrical socket outlet, switch or appliance.
b)
Directly horizontal to any electrical socket outlet, switch or appliance.
This is because electrical cables run in these areas.
EXTERNAL FIXINGS
Any external fixings should only be made with consideration to the Deed of Conditions.
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HIGH PERFORMANCE KEIM MASONRY PAINT
Some exterior features of your home such as pre-cast concrete window sills, base course blockwork and in some instances the feature window and door surround bands may have been painted
with a Keim Mineral Paints Ltd paint system. Keim mineral silicate paint systems were invented
over 125 years ago to provide long term protective and decorative finishes for renders and
masonry subject to harsh climatic conditions.
This specialist paint system has a considerably longer life cycle than other masonry paints.
Manufacturer’s studies have shown that redecoration over a 30 year period was required once for
the Keim paint system (after 16 years), whereas between 3 and 9 redecorations were required for
other masonry paints.
K REND EXTERIOR FEATURES
Some exterior features of your home such as the external bands around windows and external
doors may have been formed with pre-coloured K Rend Silicone FT render. K Rend Silicone FT
is a water repellent cement based and polymer modified self coloured render which provides a
high quality durable weatherproof coating with a natural finish.
MOCK CHIMNEYS
Lightweight mock chimneys (where fitted) are manufactured by Capvond Plastics Ltd of
Glasgow. The mock chimneys have been independently tested in respect of wind load resistance,
hygrothermal test (extremes of heat/rain and freeze/thaw cycles) and water ingress and passed
the strictest testing requirements.
The chimney stack has a render finish applied to the outside. The chimney cope and pots are
GRP.
Note that the mock chimney is not designed to support additional loadings such as satellite
dishes or TV aerials or other such apparatus. Do not install any fixings to the mock chimney.
EFFLORESCENCE ON EXTERNAL WALLS
The appearance of a white deposit on external walls is caused by ‘efflorescence’. This is a
consequence of drying out and can often occur after a new house is constructed and is drying
out. It can also occur when a wall dries out after period of heavy rain or in the spring as a result
of drying out after a wet winter. As well as external wall materials such as block-work and mortar
joints, it can also occur on products such as precast window sills, driveway paviors and paving
slabs and also internally on concrete floors and areas of similar construction.
The efflorescence is caused by natural salts being drawn out of the wall materials while drying out
and is quite normal. It is neither harmful nor detrimental to the performance of the material and,
whilst it may look unsightly, the majority of efflorescence deposits usually disappears over time.
The advice given by most brick, block, cement and precast concrete manufacturers is that it is
best dealt with by the combined effect of time and weather. If efflorescence occurs externally on
your home it is our policy to follow this advice and allow it to disappear naturally. It will usually
disappear within a few weeks, washed away by normal rainfall. This process may take some time
- 21 -
to draw out and remove all of the natural salts causing the efflorescence however it should be
apparent that each time the efflorescence appears it will be in decreasing amounts.
If efflorescence occurs on internal concrete floors or other such areas then it too can be removed
by brushing with a non metallic brush and then removing the deposits with a vacuum cleaner.
Internally occurring efflorescence should disappear quicker after brushing and vacuuming than
external efflorescence as the home is dried out by the heating.
Should persistent efflorescence occur internally which does not disappear after removing it by the
methods described above, then please contact Scotia for further advice.
EXTERNAL AREAS
Manholes give access to the drains, usually where branches join together, do not obstruct or
cover them with soil. You may need to provide access to them quickly if there is a blockage.
Please note that there are live underground services cables in the ground around your house.
Great care MUST be taken if digging or carrying out excavation work in the vicinity of live
underground cable routes.
Underground cables may be found just below the surface, although they are normally laid
between 0.45m to 1.0m deep from the surface. Reduced depth may result from ground
disturbance after laying or because the cable had to be laid over an underground obstruction.
Even shallow excavations (e.g. for post holing and fencing work or for garden features such as
ponds) may be a source of danger.
If you do uncover a cable during excavation work - ALWAYS assume it is live. If in any doubt
contact a qualified person to seek advice before carrying out excavation work.
Garden and Exterior Maintenance - Caring for your garden
Caring for the grass (including trees and shrubs where they have been provided) in your garden is
essential. This will ensure that the planting is successfully established and your garden thrives.
The rear gardens of most new homes are finished in roto-vated topsoil, allowing you the
opportunity of designing and landscaping to your own requirements. It is important that the
landscaping is carried out as soon as possible after the date of the handover, as it is only by
working the soil that it will remain aerated and weeds will be prevented from becoming
established. This will also help to establish the finished level of the soil and ensure it drains more
effectively- so reducing the potential of any flooding during wet weather conditions. However, if
there has been rain please take this into consideration when carrying out landscaping work to
your rear garden – let the topsoil dry out sufficiently before working on it - compacting wet
topsoil will damage it making it unsuitable for good grass or plant growth.
The front gardens are normally turfed or may have bark chippings and also may have shrub or
trees planted in them. There are some important care and maintenance requirements, particularly
in the first year after handover (note – not all of these requirements may apply to every plot):
Watering – In the absence of regular heavy rainfall you should water your turf at least twice a
week – daily if the weather is hot and dry – after moving in. A newly turfed garden looks
deceptively mature but the new grass has only a very small reserve of moisture in the soil
attached to the turf. Until the grass roots grow into the underlying soil the turf is prone to drying
out and shrinking. This can leave unsightly gaps. Light rain is often not enough to sufficiently
water the turf and underlying soil. The best way to irrigate your garden is by using an oscillating
sprinkler. If your property has metered water you may be put off by the cost of using a sprinkler
- 22 -
but it is likely to be much more costly to rectify problems caused by drying out. Trees and
shrubs also need copious watering after planting. As with turf, the roots have not yet grown into
the surrounding soil and can only pick up moisture from a very limited area. Planning permission
for planting schemes usually requires that planting shown on the approved plans is maintained or
replaced for a specified period of time. This obligation is passed on to you once you take up
ownership of the property. Scotia does not replace turf, trees or shrubs that have failed due to a
lack of watering.
Damage – Walking on turf before it has properly settled in can cause considerable damage.
Dents and hollows made on new turf will not disappear and are often difficult to repair. It
usually takes about a month to become firm enough to walk on, but this can vary according to
weather and soil conditions. If you are installing or removing a sprinkler use wide boards to
spread your weight and minimise damage.
Mowing – it is recommended that you do not mow the turf for at least the first week after
moving in. Let it grow to establish itself and make sure before mowing for the first time that its
roots have grown down into the soil below. For the first cut leave the grass higher than normal
and then gradually reduce the height in subsequent mowings until you reach the height you want.
Bark Chippings (where applicable) – decorative bark chippings will need ‘topping up’ on a
regular basis to keep them looking their best.
Rotary Clothes Dryer (where provided) – If a rotary clothes dryer has been provided, please note
that children should not play with this product – it is recommended that when not in use it is
folded and stored safely out of the reach of children.
Damp Proof Courses – there are damp proof courses built into your external walls to prevent
damp from the ground soaking up the outside walls. These are normally approximately 150mm
from the ground level around your home. It is important that these damp proof courses are kept
clear – if you are carrying out any landscaping or ground-works alongside your external walls
then please ensure that you do not cover these damp proof courses or otherwise bridge them,
allowing damp to rise up past the damp proof course.
RADON MEMBRANE
There may be a radon gas membrane under the concrete ground floors (depends on the location
of your home within the development).
Should you intend to carry out any work involving alterations to your ground floor which would
involve puncturing the radon membrane then it should be protected/ reinstated in accordance
with the manufacturer’s recommendations.
ROOF RAINWATER SYSTEM
The rainwater from your roof is piped to a communal SUDS (Sustainable Urban Drainage
System) detention basin facility. No maintenance is required by yourselves to the pipework from
the disconnecting manhole on the boundary of your plot to the SUDS facility and the SUDS
facility itself is maintained by Scottish Water/ Aberdeen City Council.
If you decide to install a water butt to one or more of your rainwater downpipes please ensure
that you also fit an over-flow back into the rainwater downpipe (to avoid the water butt overflowing and causing flooding) and that any water butts are located in accordance with any
relevant Deed of Conditions. Kits for water butt overflows are available in any good garden
centre.
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SURFACE AND RAIN WATER DRAINAGE
CONSIDERATIONS
We have designed the rainwater and any driveway drainage to comply with Local Authority
Regulations (such as planning, building control and roads construction consent conditions) and
SEPA (Scottish Environment Protection Agency) requirements including SUDS (Sustainable
Urban Drainage Systems) requirements. In simplified terms these regulations require us to ensure
that the drainage systems designed and installed around your home collects any rainwater which
falls onto your home and surrounding plot and drains it away in a responsible manner.
It is common for the regulations to require that the rainwater falling on your garden ground is
attenuated within your plot boundary and encouraged to soak away into the surrounding ground
rather than running off your plot into the local authority drainage system. This practice minimises
the risk of the local authority drainage systems becoming over loaded in periods of high rainfall
therefore reducing the possibilities of flooding.
There are a number of very important points that you should be aware of in relation to the
drainage around your home;
1. Alterations to your driveway or parking spaces (or other areas within your plot curtilage).
It is very important that rainwater does not run off your plot onto the adjacent roads and
footpaths (this is particularly important where the road is adopted by the local authority).
We have designed the access driveway to ensure that any rainwater falling onto it either
runs off into your plot where it soaks away into the ground or is collected into a gully or
a permeable surface is used on the drive (such as gravel or permeable blocks). If you
subsequently make any alterations to your drive you must bear this in mind and make
sure you have obtained the necessary permissions from the relevant local authority. For
example if you have a gravel drive which slopes down to the road outside your home and
you decide to have it tarred then you will also have to install suitable drainage to deal
with any rainwater which falls onto the drive. Failure to make such drainage provision
will be likely to lead to the local authority demanding that the original surface be
reinstated. Also if you extend your drive over garden ground you must ensure that
existing drainage provisions are adequate. Finally, it should also be noted that if you are
changing the surface of your driveway the local council may require that the first two
meters of your drive must be a ‘hard surface’ – not stone chippings or gravel or similar
loose surface- again it is important that you obtain the necessary permissions prior to
making any alteration to your drive.
2. Alterations to your garden ground. Removal of garden areas and installation of, for
example, large impermeable patio areas or a large area of other hard standing will reduce
the area of ground available to soak up rainwater and could lead to flooding problems if
adequate drainage is not installed at the same time. If you decide to ‘slab over’ your
garden ground you must also ensure that you make adequate provision for dealing with
any rainwater to avoid increasing the risks of flooding your own and your neighbours
properties.
3. Maintenance of the drainage system. It is essential that the drainage provisions installed
around your property are maintained to keep them in good working order. This not only
ensures that any rainwater which falls onto your house and plot dealt with efficiently, but
will ensure that risk of flooding to your home and surrounding properties is minimised.
Depending on the particular drainage systems installed around your home the following
general maintenance notes should be adhered to (where applicable);
• Permeable block drives and parking areas (where installed) – Permeable blocks
have small gaps between each block to allow water to drain between the blocks
and into the layers of material below and ultimately into the surrounding subsoils. For this to remain effective you should ensure that you do not allow the
- 24 -
gaps between the blocks to become clogged with fine soils or other debris.
Generally most permeable block manufacturers recommend that sweeping the
blocks twice a year to remove any loose particles from the surface is adequate
and if the gaps do become badly clogged they can be cleaned out with a suitable
tool. However please note that generally these porous blocks are designed to
deal with a much higher rainfall intensity than normally encountered in the UK
therefore their continued operation can accommodate a reasonable amount of
debris in the gaps of the blocks. Power washing of the blocks is not
recommended because it can lead to the fine bed that they are laid on becoming
eroded and rutting, depressions and cracking of the block surface can arise as a
result.
Diagram showing a typical arrangement for permeable block paving;
•
Gravel drives (where applicable)– these are generally maintenance free and only
need raked level on occasion to remove any rutting caused by cars or footpath
traffic and the gravel may need ‘topped’ up from time to time to keep it looking
at its best.
• Garden ground – please refer to the maintenance information contained in the
previous ‘External Areas’ section.
4. Avoiding Blocked Drains. The foul drainage system from your home is designed to take
used water from sinks, showers, baths and toilet waste. The drainage is not designed to
take inappropriate items such as wipes (baby, personal cleaning and the like), sanitary
items, cotton wool, cotton buds, disposable nappies, cooking fat or oil or grease and the
like. Scottish Water, who maintain the drainage network in the streets, have to deal with
on average 40,000 blocked drains every year across Scotland- blocked drains can lead to
flooding of your property and your neighbouring properties. Around 80% of these
blocked drains are caused by inappropriate items being put down the toilet or fat, oil or
grease being put down the sink. Please ensure that you do not dispose of inappropriate
items into your drainage system. Refer to the Scottish Water leaflet included in your
hand over pack for more information.
METERS
The Electric meter is located in the vestibule cupboard or ground floor cupboard (depending on
the apartment type).
The Gas meter is located in an external semi-concealed ground meter box.
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LOCAL AUTHORITY REFUSE AND RECYCLING
COLLECTION
The development has been planned to incorporate the required storage stances for wheeled bins
and routes for collection vehicles. Aberdeen City Council has responsibility for refuse collection
at Dubford, Bridge of Don and, at the time of writing, will provide appropriate bins to each plot
on completion. It remains your responsibility for making these bins available for collection on
the designated days in accordance with good practice and the Council’s policies.
Should you have any queries or need advice regarding Waste and Recycling, perhaps for
additional bins, advice on special collections or waste collection calendars in your area, please
contact the Aberdeen City Council Waste Team on 0845 6080919 or
[email protected], http://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk
COUNCIL TAX
The local authority will be aware of the new homes which are within your development, with a
responsibility for payment of council tax falling upon the new owner (yourself). The authority
will have made a banding valuation for your own property type and will issue payment
instructions and schedules accordingly.
Should you not receive confirmation of this from Aberdeen City Council or have any questions,
please contact their Revenues and Benefits team at:
Corporate Governance
Business Hub 16
Third Floor West, Marischal College
Broad Street
Aberdeen
AB10 1AB
Email: [email protected]
Fax: 01224 346700
Website: http://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk
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BUS SERVICE
As part of the Planning guidelines for the development, appropriate bus services are extended to
cover Dubford, including designated routes and turning point/s. Detailed below is the specific
service provided by First Bus, anticipated to commence from 1st May 2015.
- 27 -
- 28 -
SCHEDULE OF TEST CERTIFICATES
ALPHA INTEC GAS BOILER
Installation and servicing instructions (including service record) are contained in your hand over
pack.
- 29 -
SCHEDULE OF MATERIALS
Item
Windows
Skirting boards &
Facings
Ironmongery for
internal doors
Description
White uPVC inwards
opening Sheerframe 8000
tilt and turn windows
Jeld-Wen Arlington 6
panel smooth heavy
weight
Smith & Frater Ltd GRP
Doorsets
MDF ogee 7 skirting
boards and Ogee facings
Heritage Windsor
Chrome
Kitchen Units &
Worktops
Laings Directline range
with Duropal worktops.
Kitchen Appliances
Various (depending on
plot)
Kitchen sink
Leisure Euroline stainless
steel inset sink 1 ½ bowl
Internal Doors
Leafs
External Doorsets
Sanitary-ware
Taps
Shower Valve
Shower Head & Rail
Bath Screen
Central Heating +
Hot Water System
Radiators
Radiator Valves
Switches & Sockets
Extract Fans
Paving Slabs
Pavers (where not
permeable pavers)
Supplied by
C R Smith,
Dunfermline
Tel No.
01383 732181
International Doors &
Windows
01224 682229
International Doors &
Windows
Fleming Buildbase
01224 682229
Williams
Ironmongery,
Aberdeen
James Laing & Son
Ltd, Inverurie,
Aberdeenshire
James Laing & Son
Ltd, Inverurie,
Aberdeenshire
Plumbline
01224 644441
Plumbline
01224 561100
Plumbline
01224 561100
Bristan Prism
Thermostatic Shower
Valve CP
Bristan Quadrant Shower
Kit CP Ref. kit2c- CP
Novellini Aurora 3
Plumbline
01224 561100
Plumbline
01224 561100
Plumbline
01224 561100
Alpha Intec 34C and
associated components
Myson Premier HE
Danfoss RASC2 (10mm
or 15mm)
Mode Range
Greenwood Airvac Unity
CV2GIP Dmev
mechanical extract fans
Grey Riven natural grey
coloured paving slabs
Marshalls Driveline 50
Northern Heating
01224 663322
Northern Heating
Northern Heating
01224 663322
01224 663322
Edmundson Electrical
Edmundson Electrical
01224 894050
01224 894050
Concrete Products
(Kirkcaldy) Ltd
Keyline Builders
01592 261326
Ideal Standard Alto 55cm basin
and semi pedestal to bathroom
and Alto 45cm wash hand basin
to cloakrooms. Ideal Standard
Ventuno 1700 x 700 bath. Ideal
standard alto WC pan close
coupled with Alto cistern and
Alto seat and cover.
Bristan Ruby mono bloc sink
mixer (kitchen), Bristan Prism
basin mixers and Bristan Prism
mono bath filler.
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01224 258200
01467 620311
01467 620311
01224 561100
01224 576100
Roof Tiles- ‘grey’
roofs
Marley Edgemere
interlocking tiles. Colour
Roof Tiles – ‘red’
roofs
Sandtoft 20/20
interlocking tiles. Colour
Basecourse
Radon Barrier (under
ground floor)(where
fitted)
Cast Stone
Dressings (window
sills, feature lintels and
door canopies – where
applicable)
External walls
Render (Dry Dash
Render)
External Walls
Render (Wet Dash
Render)
K Rend (feature render
bands around windows and
doors where applicable)
smooth grey with Marley
Modern ventilated dry ridges
and European Plastics Ltd
Type M continuous dry verge
(where applicable)
natural red with Sandtoft half
round ventilated dry ridges and
Sandtoft segmental verges
(where applicable)
Fair Faced Grey Blocks
(chamfered to public
elevations)
Visqueen Radon Barrier
(and associated components
Merchants, Aberdeen
Roof Tiles and
associated ridge and
verge materials
supplied and installed
by Marley Contract
Services, Bishopbriggs
Roof tiles and
associated ridge and
verge materials
supplied and installed
by Marley Contract
Services, Bishopbriggs
Breedon Fyfestone
0141 761 4321
0141 761 4321
01467 651000
Keyline Builders
Merchants, Aberdeen
01224 576100
Plain Grey Smooth
Precast concrete (notesome may have been
painted with Keim paintsee below)
Dry Dash Roughcast with
Inverurie Precast
01467 624367
Keyline, Aberdeen
01224 576100
Plots with wet dash
render use K Rend
Keyline, Aberdeen
01224 576100
Smooth K Rend Silicone
FT render, colours vary
depending on plot as
follows;
Keyline, Aberdeen
01224 576100
including damp proof course
and top hat units)
colours depending on the
specific plot. Colours used in
the development are as follows;
Buttercream – buttercream
drydash roughcast backing coat
with a 4 to 6mm quartz chip.
White – Snowcrete white
drydash roughcast backing coat
with Essno white chips.
Dark Grey – Cement Grey
drydash roughcast backing coat
with Kemnay granite grey
chips.
Light Grey – Cement Grey
drydash backing coat with
Glenarm Limestone chips.
Sandelwood – terracotta
backing coat with Balmullo
pink chips.
materials (with colours
depending on the specific plot).
Colours used in the
development are as follows;
Buttercream – Ivory K rend
White- white K rend
Light Grey – grey coloured K
Rend
Sandelwood – terracotta 5562
K Rend.
- 31 -
Buttercream Render Colour
Plots – K rend colour for
surrounds is York.
White render colour Plots – K
Rend colour is pewter grey.
Dark Grey Plots- K Rend
colour is Grey.
Light Grey plots- K rend
colour is Pewter Grey.
Sandelwood colour plots- K
Rend colour is champagne.
K Rend (product
Contact details for
product manufacturer
manufacturer)
GRP Chimneys
Lightweight window
mullions (where
applicable)
Keim Masonry Paint
(to window sills, base-courses
and the like- where
applicable)
Gutters &
Downpipe
Paint to Internal
Walls
Paint to skirting
boards etc.
Kilwaughter Chemical
Company (K Rend),
N Ireland
Capvond Plastics Ltd,
Glasgow
Capvond Plastics Ltd,
Glasgow
028 2826 0766
Keim Soldalit masonry
paint. Colours vary as
follows;
Keim Mineral Paints
Ltd, Telford
01952 231250
Marley Deep-flow colour
black
Glidden Contract Matt
Emulsion
Dulux Eggshell
Drain Centre
01224 626497
Dulux Decorator
Centre
Dulux Decorator
Centre
01224 573044
Lightweight GRP
chimneys
Lightweight Cast Resin
window mullions
Buttercream render colour
plots = Keim 4017 Beige.
White render coloured plots =
Keim 9008 black (or
unpainted).
Sandelwood render coloured
plots = Keim 9295 (off white).
0141 876 9000
0141 876 9000
01224 573044
Note - Not all items or colours are applicable to all properties
Scotia Homes Limited
Balmacassie, Ellon, AB41 8QR ● Tel: 01358 722441 ● Fax: 01358 723499
Email: [email protected] ● www.scotia-homes.co.uk
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