United States Stove NITED STATES STOV 1602M Operator`s manual

United States Stove NITED STATES STOV 1602M Operator`s manual
BRECKWELL®
Exceptional Heat, Outstanding Value
Installation/Operator’s Manual
Model: SF747
Wood or Coal Gravity Style (Up-Flow) Supplemental Furnace
SAFETY NOTICE:
If this furnace is not properly installed, a house fire may result! For your safety, follow these installation instructions. Contact
local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation requirements in your area. This furnace must be installed by a
qualified technician. Keep these instructions for future reference.
Safety Tested to UL 391
United States Stove Company • 227 Industrial Park Road, P.O. Box 151 • South Pittsburg, TN 37380 • www.Breckwell.com
8520001
2
CUT HERE
"
WARRANTY INFORMATION CARD
Name__________________________________________ Telephone #: (_____)_____________
City____________________________________________ State_______ Zip_________________
Email Address __________________________________________________________________
Model # of Unit________________________________ Serial #___________________________
Fuel Type: qWood
qCoal qPellet
qGas
qOther _________________________
Place of Purchase (Retailer)______________________________________________________
City____________________________________________ State_______ Zip_________________
If internet purchase, please list website address___________________________________
Date of Purchase _______________________________________________________________
Reason for Purchase:
qDecoration
qAlternative Heat
qCost
qMain Heat Source
qOther _________________________
What was the determining factor for purchasing your new appliance?_____________
I have read the owner’s manual that accompanies this unit and fully understand the:
Installation q Operation q and Maintenance q
of my new appliance.
Print Name
Signature
Date
Please attach a copy of your purchase receipt.
Warranty not valid without a Proof of Purchase.
"
CUT HERE
Warranty information must be received within 30 days of original purchase.
Detach this page from this manual, fold in half with this page to the inside and tape together. Apply a
stamp and mail to the address provided. You may use an envelope if you choose.
You may register online by going to www.usstove.com
All information submitted will be kept strictly confidential. Information provided will not be sold for advertising purposes.
Contact information will be used solely for the purpose of product notifications.
3
CUT HERE
"
Ê
Fold Here
Fold Here
É
4
"
United States Stove Company
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
CUT HERE
PLACE
STAMP
HERE
INTRODUCTION
Thank You for your purchase of a U.S. Stove Wood/Coal Burning
Gravity Style (Up-Flow) Furnace. Your decision to buy our furnace
was undoubtedly reached after much careful thought and consideration. We are very proud you chose this furnace and trust you will receive the comfort and economy that others realize when heating with
a U.S. Stove product.
Do not place the furnace directly on a combustible floor. If you are
placing it on a combustible floor, an approved fire retardant material,
equivalent to 3/8” UL Listed millboard, should be placed under the
unit. The material must extend at least 16 inches beyond the front of
the unit and 8 inches on either side of the fuel loading door opening. It
must also extend underneath the chimney connector and to each side
of the connector by at least 2 inches.
Your dealer is important in your experience with the furnace not only
with the purchase, but for recommendations for professional installation in your home. The qualified professional installer has been expertly trained in solid-fuel furnace installation to assure the safety and
comfort for your family while saving you money. Trust your experienced installer. He is a specialist in this field.
CLEARANCES
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
IMPORTANT
Before installing and using your furnace, please read the following
pages thoroughly and carefully. If you follow the instructions, your
furnace will give you safe and more dependable service for years to
come.
• First step: Check your local codes. This installation must comply
with their rulings.
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
20”
(TOP VIEW)
22”
FLUE
• To prevent injury or damage, do not allow anyone who is unfamiliar with the furnace to operate it.
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
TO A COMBUSTIBLE
WALL
CAUTION:
DO NOT store
combustible or
flammable materials or
liquids near the
furnace.
12”
• Do Not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer
• Always have a smoke or ionization detector and a CO detector
installed in your home.
15”
REDUCED CLEARANCES
• NEVER INSTALL outside the home.
NFPA guidelines and most codes permit reduced clearances to combustible walls and ceilings if adequate protection is added. A common
mistake is to assume that sheet metal, masonry, or millboard placed
directly against a wall protects it. Materials installed in this manner
actually provides very little protection. These materials are good heat
conductors, so they will be almost as hot on their back side as they are
on the exposed side. Therefore, the combustible wall behind is still a
fire hazard.
• Spend adequate time with your furnace to become well acquainted with the different settings and how each will affect its burning
patterns. It is impossible to state just how each setting will affect
your furnace because of the variations in each installation.
A wall can be kept cool using these items but only if they are mounted
and spaced out from the wall by an inch or two to allow free air circulation behind the protective panel. The protective panel should also
have a gap between the floor and ceiling.
• This furnace must be installed ONLY in the prescribed manner
shown in illustrations 1, 2, or 3 under the Installation Examples
in this manual. It is NEVER to be installed as a counter-flow or
down-draft furnace, or in any manner wherein the heated air is
directed in a downward flow into the home or toward to an existing central furnace.
Three rules to follow when constructing wall protectors:
DISCLAIMER NOTICE
The BTU ranges and heating capacity specifications are provided as a
guide and in no way guarantee the output or capacity of this unit. The
actual BTU output depends on the type of fuel being burned and its
conditions, the thermostat setting, the draft adjustment and the chimney to which the unit is attached. The actual area that this unit will
heat depends on factors such as the conditions of the building, heat
loss, type of construction, amount of insulation, type of air movement,
the location of the unit and more importantly the duct work and return air facility.
Warning:
Do not alter this appliance in any way other than specified in these
instructions. Doing so may void your warranty.
LOCATING YOUR FURNACE
The furnace is to be installed maintaining the clearances specified in
the following illustrations.
1. Non-combustibility of all materials including mounting and
supporting.
2. A well ventilated air space between protector and wall.
3. Sufficient strength and rigidity so that the protector and air
space will be durable.
2 in. [5cm]
FROM CEILING
CONSTRUCTING
NON-COMBUSTIBLE
WALLS
PROTECTIVE COVERING
AND ALL SUPPORTS MUST
BE NON-COMBUSTIBLE
1 in [2.5cm]
AIR SPACE
2 in [5cm]
FROM FLOOR
5
CHIMNEY REQUIREMENTS
A fireclay lined masonry or Class A 103HT All-Fuel Metal Insulated
Chimney must be used in all airtight wood furnace installations. The
minimum recommended flue size for the model AAF747 is 6 inches,
inside diameter. When making new chimney installations, always follow the chimney manufacturer’s instructions.
If at all possible, use the factory built, class A 103HT chimney mentioned above. They are safer and perform better than traditional masonry chimneys. If a masonry chimney is a must, be certain it has a
fire clay liner and that it is intact, clean and recently inspected. And
remember, masonry chimneys are far more prone to the formation of
hazardous creosote.
1. The furnace should be the only heating using the chimney flue
. One furnace per flue outlet.
TOP OF CHIMNEY MUST BE
2 FEET [61cm] ABOVE
HIGHEST POINT OF THE
ROOF WITHIN 10 FEET
[305cm].
2 FT [61cm]
MINIMUM
MINIMUM 3 FT[91cm] FROM
TOP OF CHIMNEY TO
POINT AT WHICH IT
PASSES THROUGH THE
ROOF.
3 FT [91cm]
MINIMUM
RECOMMENDED
MINIMUM HEIGHT
20 FT [610cm]
2. A masonry chimney should have a tile or stainless steel liner.
CREOSOTE - FORMATION AND NEED
FOR REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors,
which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote
vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning
fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice
monthly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up
has occurred. If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to
reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
SMOKE PIPE INSTALLATION
Clearances to combustible materials (i.e. paneling, ceiling tile, sheet rock,
plaster, draperies, casements or wood trim, etc.) will vary with the type
of flue connection used. Be sure to maintain the specified clearances
for your type of installation.
TYPE OF FLUE REQUIRED
CONNECTION CLEARANCE
24 Gauge or Heavier .................................................. 18”
Single Wall Stainless Steel
or Black Pipe
Double Wall, Stainless Steel or................................... 6”
Double Wall, Black Pipe w/
Stainless Steel Inner wall
Class A 103HT All-Fuel or Equivalent .................... 2”
According to NFPA standards, single wall stove pipes can be within
9” of combustibles provided an approved fire retardant material covered with 28 gauge sheet metal, spaced out 1” on non-combustible
spacers, is utilized. See illustration.
3. The masonry chimney should not have any missing mortar or
loose bricks.
4. There should be no mortar or parts of the chimney blocking the
chimney flue.
5. There should be a two inch clearance between any chimney (masonry or metal) and combustibles. (such as the house)
6. The chimney should extend at least 2 foot above the highest point
of the house, or 2 foot above the point at which the chimney is 10
foot from the roof.
7. The chimney should be relatively straight and vertical.
8. The portion of an all-fuel metal chimney that extends above the
roof should be well secured.
9. A masonry chimney should be built on footings and not attached
to the house.
10. A rain cap, complete with an animal or bird screen, should be installed on top of the chimney.
6
18” [46cm]
9” [23cm] 18” [46cm]
When using a Class A or double wall flue pipe connection, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions.
When constructing a single wall smoke pipe, the following guidelines
must be observed.
1. The connector pipe should be 24 gauge or heavier steel or black pipe.
stainless
2. Secure all joints with three #8 screws.
3. If the connector pipe must pass through a wall, an approved insulated or ventilated thimble, at least three times the diameter of the
smoke pipe must be used. (i.e. a 6” diameter smoke pipe needs an
18” thimble).
4. The connector pipe should never be used as a chimney.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR ALL
CONNECTOR PIPES
The connector pipe must be constructed and installed so that it maintains clearances, keeps condensation and creosote within the pipe, and
is capable of withstanding a 2100°F degree chimney fire.
1. The connector pipe should slant down toward the furnace a minimum of 1/4” to the foot. At no time should the pipe turn downward
toward the chimney or run horizontal.
2. There should be no more than two 90 degree elbows.
3. The connector pipe should never be longer than six feet. If it is
absolutely necessary to make a run of more than six feet (not
recommended) use extra support brackets every 3 feet.
4. The connector pipe should never be reduced to a smaller size than
flue opening on the furnace.
5. The connector pipe should not block the flue of the chimney or
extend into it in any way.
6. A good airtight thimble should be used to hold the connector pipe
in the chimney. It should be constructed so the connector pipe can
be removed for cleaning.
7. The connector pipe should not leave the heated portion of the
building to reach the chimney.
8. The connector pipe should not pass from one story to the next
before entering the chimney, nor should it pass through any closed
or enclosed space.
9. The connector pipe and any elbows must be of 24 gauge or greater.
10. The connector pipe should not be located near or in a walk way or
well traveled area.
11. All male ends of connector pipe should run or point towards the
furnace.
12. Install a cast iron adjustable damper in the first joint of the connector pipe, nearest to the flue collar.
the use of its furnaces to be installed and/or used as a free-standing
heater, it is possible to achieve a reasonably safe and functional installation IF certain standard procedures are followed. The following are
guidelines only and are intended to enable the furnace user to obtain
reasonable efficiency from his furnace, and with due respect to safety
when installing as a “free-standing heater”. If installed correctly, and
in accordance with the instructions found in this manual, your warm
air furnace may be installed as a “space heater” within living quarters,
cabins, garage, or workshop. Please adhere to the following:
1. The use of a cold air return and/or filter box is mandatory. This will
not only increase your blower life and provide filtered air, it will
also help prevent the blower or blowers from “capturing” heated air
exiting from the top of the furnace heat outlets.
2. If installed as purchased , without directing the heat away from the
furnace itself, it will simply sit and cycle, turning the blowers off and
on. The thermostat may not function properly.
3. All larger furnaces (or those with multi-speed blowers) absolutely
require BACK PRESSURE to prevent premature motor winding
failure. If allowed to operate at high RPM (As in “FREE AIR” mode
- no duct work or flow restrictions) the windings overheat, insulation
melts and the motor simply burns up - not covered under warranty.
We strongly recommend that the hot air duct work be installed by a
home heating specialist. If doing the installation yourself, before you
decide which installation will best suit your needs, consult a qualified
heating technician and follow his recommendations as to the safest and
most efficient method of installation.
The following illustrations are the ONLY acceptable configurations
CONNECTING HOT AIR DUCT
TO FURNACE
when installed with existing oil or gas furnaces.
DAMPERS ON STOVE PIPES
When burning coal, we recommend a Barometric Draft Damper be
installed at a safe convenient place between chimney and your furnace
preferably less than 3’ from the flue collar.
When you have installed the connector pipe between your furnace
and the chimney, tap the pipe hard with your fingernail. Remember
the sound it makes - it will be a “ting” echoing inside the stove pipe. If
later you tap and hear a muffled thud, you are building up soot in the
pipe and should clean it. This pipe should be cleaned at least once or
twice during the heating season.
DO NOT CONNECT TWO HEATERS TO THE SAME CHIMNEY
FLUE. The National Fire Prevention Association recommends that wood
burning appliances vent into a separate flue from gas or oil furnaces. If
such an installation is contemplated, first check with a local building
inspector to find out if a separate flue for a wood burner is required.
Use of a Barometric Draft Control (when burning wood) is recommended
ONLY in the event your chimney creates excessive draft leading to an
over-firing condition.
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES
INSTALLATION #1
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional) is inserted into
the heat run before the plenum of the existing furnace to prevent air
from the existing furnace to blow back into the furnace when it is not
in use. When a back damper is employed, it should be located as close
to the existing furnace plenum as practical.
HEATED AIR DISCHARGE
The furnace is designed for use as a supplemental heating source. When
used as a supplementary furnace, it is connected in conjunction with an
oil, gas, or electric furnace to the existing duct work which distributes
the heated air into several rooms and/or areas.
Though United States Stove Company expressly Does Not recommend
7
INSTALLATION #2
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into the existing plenum
will help direct the flow of air from the furnace as well as the flow in
the existing furnace. Ducting entering the existing plenum at an angle
(approximately 45 degrees) will facilitate air flow from the furnace while
diverting air from the existing furnace.
INSTALLATION #3
The baffle on this system should be made the full width of the furnace
plenum in order to properly direct the air into the distribution ducts.
THE PLENUM OPENINGS DIFFER
BETWEEN THE 1602 AND 1802
PLENUM OPENING
13”
x 18”
MODEL 1602
- 13”Rectangular
x 18” Rectangular
MODEL 1802 - 18” x 18” Rectangular
RETURN AIR IS VERY IMPORTANT
When installing your furnace, return air MUST BE incorporated into
the system. Return air can be provided by installing a separate duct
system or by tying into the cold air return of an existing gas or oil
furnace. The cold air return duct can be connected to the furnace with
either a factory manufactured filter box, model UFB908 or an equivalent fabricated from sheet metal.
When installing a cold air return, the minimum size shall be a 16” x
20” or equivalent (320 sq. in.) in order to insure proper furnace performance. Failure to provide return air ducts of the specified size will
void your warranty.
A filter should be installed in the cold air return. Furnace filters should
be checked and cleaned/replaced regularly.
If return air is not provided, the warm air distributed into your home
will be restricted and the efficiency of the furnace is decreased. Without a return air system, warm air will be drawn into your basement,
unnecessarily heating unused areas of the home. In extreme cases, if
your basement or utility room is fairly airtight, the blowers on the furnace could depressurize the room and pull toxic flue gases from the
furnace, a gas water heater, or gas furnace. The fumes could then be
distributed throughout the house.
8
NEGATIVE
PRESSURE IN
BASEMENT
COMBUSTION AIR
All fires need air (specifically oxygen) to burn. Furnaces, fireplaces,
and wood burning furnaces need enough oxygen for complete combustion of their fuels. The incomplete combustion that takes place
when a furnace is “air starved” causes carbon monoxide (CO) to be
formed in quantities that can be dangerous inside a well sealed house.
Having a source of combustion air from outside the home will prevent
“air starvation” of the furnace. A simple positive air supply can be constructed using dryer vent and a modified termination.
FURNACE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Unpack your Furnace and insure that there is no shipping damage. If
damage exists, please contact your dealer immediately.
Your furnace will require some assembly before operation. All needed
hardware and components for the following assemblies are included
within the parts boxes inside the furnace and in the ash pan. Read and
follow these instructions for proper furnace assembly.
DOOR HANDLES
Insert door handle into door. From rear side of door, place a 1/2”
washer over the threaded part of the handle, then attach the lock nut.
Tighten the nut, then back off 1/4 turn to allow free operation of the
handle.
Follow these same directions for the ash door handle assembly.
SHAKER GRATE HANDLE
Insert the Shaker Rod into the hole on the ash door frame as shown.
Then attach the Shaker Bracket to the front of the furnace using two
1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolts and two 1/4-20 Lock Nuts. Next, insert the
shaker Rod into the bracket and attach to the shaker grate bar using
the 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Bolt and a 1/4-20 Lock Nut. The bolt and nut retaining the shaker bar and rod should be left loose to allow free movement of the grates.
(1) Shaker Rod
(1) Shaker Bracket
(1) 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolt
(3) 1/4-20 Lock Nut
BRACKET
(2) Door Handle
(2) 1/2” Washer
(2) 1/2” Lock Nut
ASH DOOR SPIN DRAFT
Screw the spin draft onto the 3/8” x 2-1/2” carriage bolt. Then screw
the spin draft and bolt into the ash door allowing approximately 1/2”
of the bolt to stick through the back side of the ash door. Secure the
bolt in place with the 3/8”-16 lock nut.
(1) Spin Draft
(1) 3/8-16 Carriage Bolt
(1) 3/8-16 Lock Nut
FUEL & ASH DOOR LATCH
With two 1/4-20 x 3/4 hex bolts each, attach the door latches to the
door latch mounting brackets on the left side of the door frames as illustrated. The slots in the brackets and latches are for door seal adjustment. Make the proper adjustments, then tighten the nuts. The door’s
gasket should be snug against the door frame on the furnace.
(1) Feed Door Latch
(1) Ash Door Latch
(4) 1/4-20 x 3/4 Hex Bolt
(4) 1/4-20 Kep Nut
Feed Door
Illustration
Ash Door
Illustration
SMOKE CURTAIN
Using two 1/4-20 x 1-1/4” Carriage bolts, the smoke curtain clips and
two nuts, attach the smoke curtain in place above the Fuel Feed Door
as shown below. After installation, the smoke curtain should swing
freely back into the furnace.
(1) Smoke Curtain
(2) Smoke Curtain Clips
(2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 Carriage Bolt (2) 1/4-20 Kep Nut
1/4-20 NUT
SMOKE CURTAIN
CLIP
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
CARRIAGE BOLT
SMOKE CURTAIN
NUT
BOLT
SMOKE CURTAIN
CLIP
SMOKE CURTAIN
FRONT
9
SPRING HANDLES
Attach the four(4) spring handles to the Feed/Ash Doors, Baffle Rod,
and Shaker Rod by twisting the springs counter-clockwise while applying pressure until you have screwed them approximately 3/4”-1”
onto the rods.
(4) Spring Handles
DISTRIBUTION BLOWER & ACC.
1.
Remove all contents and insure that all components are present for assembly. See the part list below
2.
Begin by attaching the blowers to the unit. Insert a clip into each mounting hole in the furnace’s cabinet back. Be sure to install the gasket between the blower and cabinet back. Insert the eight bolts provided and
tighten.
3.
Mount the Honeywell limit control to the cabinet back. The conduit assembly should already be attached to the limit control, otherwise, do so
then make the correct wiring connections to the limit control. See wiring
diagram.
4.
Next, mount the junction box and insulation using two of the #10 x 1/2
screws provided. Make a small slice in the 5 x 5 insulation to allow the
wires from the draft blower to protrude, then Install it between the cabinet back and junction box, with the foil side to the cabinet back. Attach
the conduit assembly from the limit control to the junction box as shown.
5.
If not already installed, snap the rocker switch into the top of the junction
box. Provide a 110 volt power supply and connect to the junction box
with the cable clamp to the right side.
6.
Attach the two longer conduit assemblies to the junction box and to each
blower.
7.
Before mounting the Fan Center, make all the wire connections per the
wiring diagram, then attach the fan center to the junction box.
All electrical connections should be done by a qualified electrician.
NOTE: The extra brown wire on the fan center has no use. It
should be capped off or removed.
The conduit may be cut shorter to provide a cleaner installation.
10
(2)
(2)
(8)
(8)
(2)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(3)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(8)
800 CFM Blower
Gasket, Blower
Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20
1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt
Conduit Assembly (5ft)
Honeywell Limit Control
Conduit Assembly (1ft)
Junction Box
Insulation (5” x 5”)
Rocker Switch
Romex Cable Clamp
Fan Center Control
73B Wire Nut
74B Wire Nut
Female Term. (blue)
Female Term. (red)
#10 x 1/2 Screw
WIRING DIAGRAM
FORCED DRAFT BLOWER - 69189
Using two 1/4-20 x 1” bolts and nuts, attach the draft blower adapter
to the draft tube on the front of the furnace. Then mount and secure
the draft blower to the adapter with the three 10-24 Kep nuts. Plug the
blower into the outlet on the front of the furnace.
(1) Draft Blower
(1) Draft Blower Adapter
(2) 1/4-20 x 1 Hex Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 Lock Nut
(3) 10-24 Kep Nut
FIREBRICK AND BAFFLE REPLACEMENT
FIREBOX BRICK REPLACEMENT
BAFFLE/BRICK REPLACEMENT
This furnace comes from the factory with the firebrick installed. However, if brick replacement is necessary, follow these instructions. Before furnace operation, remove the brick retaining strip. This piece is
used during shipping to reduce brick damage.
If baffle replacement is necessary, slide the baffle out until you can access the nuts thru the flue outlet. Once the nuts have been removed,
slide the baffle off the rod and thru the opening in the firebrick. You
may have to remove one of the firebrick to make baffle removal easier.
For model AAF747, there are 6 full brick and 1 half brick per side.
Install the half brick first by putting the bottom of the brick in first
and let it rest against the firebox side and fire grates. Then slide it to
the rear. After that, install the #2, #3, #4, #5 & #6 brick, sliding the
6th brick forward to allow for the 7th brick. Repeat for opposite side.
For model AAF747, there are 4 full brick and 1 half brick in the top of
the furnace. Install the brick by inserting one end of the brick angled
upward and then allowing the opposite end to rest on the firebox lip.
Lay the brick between the spacer and firebox back. Slide the baffle to
the rear and let it rest on that half brick. After installing brick #2 in
the front, install #3 and slide it under the baffle. Finally install bricks
#4 and #5.
NOTE: Prior to operation, be sure to remove the brick retaining
strips.
11
TESTING AND OPERATING PROCEDURES
Setting the thermostat four degrees higher than your existing therGENERAL FURNACE OPERATION
After installation of the furnace is complete, it is ready for operation.
The Honeywell Limit Control, in conjunction with a wall thermostat,
operates the distribution blowers and the draft blower on the front of
the furnace. The limit control can be adjusted to your desired blower
On/Off times. The factory settings are 100/150/200.
The wall thermostat setting operates the ON time of the draft blower.
If the temperature is below the setting on the wall thermostat, the draft
blower will come on. (Recommended setting at 5 to 10 degrees higher
than other heating thermostats.)
The first two set points on the limit control operates the distribution
blower(s). When the furnace plenum reaches the second set point
on the limit control, the distribution blower(s) will come on. If the
temperature falls to the first set point, the distribution blower(s) will
shut-off. The rocker switch on the top of the junction box gives you the
option to run one blower or two. If the switch is ON, both blowers will
come on when the plenum reaches the set temperature.
When the furnace reaches the third set point on the limit control, the
draft blower will shut-off. The draft blower will come back on if the
temperature falls below the setting on the wall thermostat.
TESTING
1. Check the draft blower by turning the room thermostat up high
enough so that the draft blower turns on. Then lower the thermostat
setting until you hear it shut off.
2. Use a sheet of newspaper to test your draft by placing it inside the
furnace and lighting it.
With completion of the tests above, you are ready to light the furnace.
Follow the operating steps.
STARTING A WOOD FIRE
Using Forced Air Draft
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene,
charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire
in the furnace. Keep all such liquids well away from the furnace while
it is in use.
1. Open spin draft cap on ash door.
2. Pull the slide baffle rod to the front position.
3. Open the fuel load door and light fire using kindling and several
sheets of newspaper, then close the furnace door. The furnace door
should remain closed for 5 to 10 minutes in order to establish the
fire. If the fire has established, you are ready to load the furnace.
CAUTION: To prevent flame and smoke spillage, the slide baffle must
be pulled out and the fuel door must be cracked for ten seconds before
being fully opened.
Do not over fire your furnace! After you have become familiar with its
operating, you should know how much wood to use.
4. Load the furnace, close the load door and push the slide Baffle rod
to rear.
5. Close the spin draft cap on ash door, leaving it cracked about the
diameter of a dime.
6. The forced air draft cycles on demand from the wall thermostat.
12
mostat is recommended. In operation, the power draft blower will
run until the thermostat temperature setting is reached. The draft
regulator on the forced air draft is preset at the factory and should
require no adjustment.
CAUTION: To avoid excessive temperatures, do not operate with fuel door or ash pan open.
STARTING A COAL FIRE
If you burn coal, a forced air draft is required
Shut off FAD when fuel door is open
 Open smoke pipe damper all the way. Open all draft controls on
your AAF747. Pull the slide baffle forward.
 Place about 10-15 lb. of coal in on the shaker grates. It should come
up to about half of the first firebrick level.
 Place crumpled paper over the coal and crisscross a couple handfuls
of dry kindling wood 3/4” in thickness on top of paper.
 Ignite the paper and close loading door. Wait about 30 minutes until
coal fire is established before adding more coal. NOTE: NEVER load
coal over the level of firebrick.
 Close by-pass damper and set all draft controls to your own needs.
It may take 3 to 4 coal fires to determine how your local coal and
the furnace reacts together. Adjusts drafts accordingly.
 Loading with a good bed of coals in the morning - Open by-pass
damper.
1. In normal shaking, only rock the grates a small amount to sift
ash through. Do not agitate the fire bed too often. This practice
will waste coal. If glowing coal is visible in the ash pan, you have
shaken too much.
2. Remove all ashes every day from ash pit.
CAUTION: Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight
fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial
in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the
closed container until all coals have thoroughly cooled.
3. With your poker, push hot burning embers to the rear of the unit
and add green coal in front. NEVER load over height of firebrick.
This can result in damage to your furnace and home.
4. Close by-pass damper.
 Too much draft air will cause clinkering of coal and will waste heat
up the chimney. Shut draft down to as low a point as you can and
still heat your home.
1. NOTE: Never stand in front of loading door when opening it.
Stand to the side.
2. NEVER completely cover the live fire with fresh coal. Always leave
a generous area of glowing coal at the top of the fire and at the rear.
3. Always keep the ash pit clean.
 If the fire goes out or does not hold overnight, look for:
1. Poor draft.
2. Incorrect damper settings.
3. Improper firing methods for coal being used.
4. More combustion air needed.
5. Coal not sized to the furnace. We recommend 1” to 3” diameter
pieces of coal.
6. Ashes, if allowed to accumulate in the ash pit, will not allow the
passage of required air for combustion. Keep ash pit clean.
7. This furnace is not to be used with an automatic stoker unless
so certified.
 There are ONLY two types of coal allowed for use in this furnace:
Bituminous Coal (soft coal) and Anthracite Coal (hard coal). NEVER
USE Cannel (or Channel) coal or Brown (Lignite) Coal.
 See our Bulletin RC454 at the rear of this manual for the best information available on burning coal.
 Do not over draft the furnace! It is designed to operate at .06 inches
of water column and must be set with a draft gauge to maintain a
steady draft. (Barometric Damper recommended.)
 Do not allow ashes to build up higher than 2” above grates.
 Never allow the ashes in the ash pan touch the grate section. RE-
OPERATING NOTES
MOVE ASHES FREQUENTLY!
 Be extremely careful when removing furnace ash pan; it can get very
hot.
than necessary early in the fall and late spring, as you cannot keep
the firebox hot enough (without overheating your home) to burn
gases. Slow fires can cause excessive creosote build-up in smoke
pipe, chimney and firebox.
 Wood should be placed directly onto the cast iron shaker grate of the
furnace. Do not use additional grates and/or irons.
 In the event of a power failure, you may operate the AAF747 furnace
provided the following instructions are followed:
1. Any air filter should be removed.
2. Observe the furnace operation closely and often till power is
restored.
 Do not burn garbage, plastics, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable
liquids. Plastics, when burned, form hydrofluoric and hydrochloric
acids which will damage and destroy your furnace pipe and chimney.
The burning of trash or oil can result in an extremely hot fire and is
sometimes a cause of chimney fires. NEVER BURN GREEN WOOD
OR TIRES.
 Do not store fuel or other combustible material within marked installation clearances.
NOTE: For further information on using your furnace safely, obtain
a copy of the National Fire Protection Association publication “Using
Coal and Wood Stoves Safely.” NFPA NO. NW-8-1974. The address of
the NFPA is 470 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Massachusetts 02210.
 With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt on the metal.
You may smell an odor. This is normal during the first operation.
You may want to assemble the furnace out of doors and build a small
fire in it to “burn off ” this dirt and oil before installing the unit.
 The furnace is designed to burn air dried wood and coal at a predetermined firing rate. Over firing could result in damage to the
heat exchanger and cause dangerous operation. Over firing occurs
when the ash door is left open during operation or a highly volatile
fuel, i.e. large amounts of small kindling, is used. If any portion of
the connector pipe glows orange or red, you are in an over-firing
situation. Close all dampers.
 When tending the firebox always pull the baffle slide rod out prior
to opening load door. Open load door slowly to avoid a “flash back”.
After closing load door, push the baffle slide rod to the rear.
 Equip your home with fire extinguishers and smoke detectors appropriately located.
 Inspect air filters regularly. The air filter in the filter box should be
changed at least every 30 days.
 Oil motor on forced air draft every 90 days with a few drops of 30
wt. oil.
THIS IS A WOOD AND COAL BURNING FURNACE AND SHOULD NOT BE
ALTERED IN ANY WAY! DOING SO
WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!
 The distribution blower motors may be one of two types. If the motor
has sealed bearings, no oiling is required.
If the motor is equipped with fill holes, the motor should be oiled
every 90 days with several drops of 30 wt. oil.
 Check the fit on the load door. It must fit tightly. If it does not, check
for deterioration or wear of the ceramic rope seal. Replace defective
seals.
 Inspect and clean your chimney and stove pipe regularly.
 In event of chimney fire, shut all draft controls and call your fire department immediately. Alert everyone in the house. If the fire is still
burning vigorously, throw baking soda into firebox or discharge a fire
extinguisher into the firebox. After chimney fire is over, completely
inspect system for damage before further use.
 NEVER throw water on the fire or at the furnace, as rapidly expanding steam could result in a severe scalding.
 Slow fires: It is not recommended burning the furnace any more
13
TROUBLE SHOOTING AND PROBLEM SOLVING
1. Problem:
Distribution blower continues to run or will not run
Smoke puffs from furnace
Solution:
Solution:
A.Check fan limit or heat sensor and cable.
A. Check chimney draft. Check for blocked chimney or flue pipe.
Use mirror to check chimney clearance.
B. Check to see that blower is properly wired.
(See Wiring and Assembly Instructions).
B. Check ash pit — if it is too full, empty.
C. Check fuse box or power source.
C. Make sure furnace room is not too airtight.
D. Check power supply.
D. Make sure all of chimney mortar connections are airtight.
6. Problem:
E. Check ash drawer. Make sure it’s airtight.
Draft blower continues to run or will not run
F. Check chimney for possible down-draft caused by taller surrounding trees or objects. Correct with proper chimney vent
cap.
Solution:
G. Check the possibility of a cold chimney forcing cool gases
backward. Remedied by properly insulating chimney with
non-combustible liner — non-combustible insulation.
H. Fuel may be too green.
I. Make sure no other fuel burning devices are connected to the
chimney impairing the draft.
J. Check chimney draft, it should be .06 inches of water column.
This service is provided by a certified chimney sweep.
A. Check wiring.
B. Check thermostat or thermostat wire for short.
C. Make sure temperature is calling for heat.
7. Problem:
Odor from first fire
Solution:
A. The odor from new steel should disappear in a few hours.
B. If the odor remains, call you dealer immediately. A bad weld
can cause a fume leak.
2. Problem:
8. Problem:
Inadequate heat being delivered to your home
Excessive Creosote
Solution:
Solution:
A. Check home insulation — is it adequate?
A. Check the grade of wood you are burning.
B. Check hook-up to furnace — is it installed correctly?
B. Make sure your unit is serviced by its own proper chimney.
C. Cool air inlet may be inadequate or furnace room too airtight.
C. Check length of flue pipe and its connections.
D. Your wood fuel may be too low grade. Hardwoods are recommended.
D. Make sure you are burning the smallest, hottest fire to adequately
heat your home.
E. Make sure your hot air duct (and other duct work) is airtight.
E. Also see Solutions to Problem one.
F. If furnace room is warm but your home isn’t, check back draft
dampers.
9. Problem:
G. Is air to the blower available?
Solution:
If the fire goes out or does not hold over night
3. Problem:
A. Poor Draft.
Excess smoke or flames coming out door when refueling
B. Incorrect damper settings.
Solution:
C. Improper firing methods if burning coal.
A. Wait 15 seconds and open door SLOWLY — then refuel.
D. More combustion air needed.
B. Check length of flue pipe to chimney. Your unit should be
within six (6) feet of your chimney.
E. Coal not sized to the furnace. We recommend 1” to 3” diameter
pieces of coal.
C. Make sure chimney cap is not too close to the top of the chimney.
F. Ashes, if allowed to accumulate in the ash pit, will not allow
passage of the required air for combustion. Keep ash pit clean.
D. Check chimney draft — make sure chimney flue pipe is clean
and chimney is of adequate height.
E. Make sure you’re not suffocating the fire with excessive amounts
of unburned wood.
F. Slide baffle should be pulled out prior to load door opening.
4. Problem:
Distribution blower vibrating
Solution:
A. Tighten blower wheel to motor shaft.
B. Check for bad fan bearings.
5. Problem:
14
G.This furnace is not to be used with an automatic stoker unless
so certified.
PARTS DIAGRAM
23
35
34
28
29 30
34
22
36
33
21
20
3
18
19
16
4
17
3
2
1
27
25
26
37
24
9
3
8
7
10
6
14
15
16
17
2
5
3
32
31
13
12
11
15
PARTS DIAGRAM AND LIST
Key
Description
Part #
Qty
Key
Description
Part #
Qty
1
Feed Door Assy. (w/Rope Gasket)
69679
1
39
Blower Gasket
88127
2
2
Door Handle
24179
2
40
Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20
83340
8
N/S
Lock Nut, 1/2-13
83444
2
41
Bolt, 1/4-20 x 3/4
83339
8
N/S
Washer
83835
2
42
Conduit Assembly (5ft)
69578
2
3
Spring Handle
891135
4
43
Honeywell Limit Control
80145
1
4
Feed Door Latch
23786
1
44
Conduit Assembly (1ft)
68859
1
5
Ash Door Assy. (w/Rope Gasket)
68880
1
45
Junction Box
25625
1
6
Draft Cap
23859
1
46
Insulation (5” x 5”)
25626
1
7
Ash Door Latch
23823
1
47
Rocker Switch
C42373
1
N/S
C21399
4
48
Romex Cable Clamp
80362
1
8
Shaker Handle
69005
1
49
Fan Center Control
80130
1
9
Bracket, Shaker Handle
24204
1
50
Water Coil Access Cover
23819
1
10
Ash Pan
68882
1
11
Grate Retainer
40312
2
12
Shaker Bar
891341
1
13
Shaker Grate Section
40314
5
14
Back Liner
40313
1
15
Front Liner
40344
1
16
Full Firebrick (4-1/2 wide x 9 tall x 1-1/4 thick)
89066
16
17
Half Firebrick (2-1/4 wide x 9 tall x 1-1/4 thick)
891414
3
18
Slide Baffle
24231
1
19
Baffle Rod
86603
1
20
Lock Nut, 1/2-13
83444
2
21
Gasket, Flue Collar
88032
1
22
Flue Collar
40246
1
23
Flue Collar Ring
22761
1
24
Smoke Curtain
23800
1
25
Smoke Door Clip
23787
2
26
Carriage Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 Long
83445
2
27
Kep Nut, 1/4-20
83250
2
28
Cabinet Side, Left
69676B
1
29
Insulation, Side
C98771
2
30
Insulation Retainer
83884
41
Key
Description
Part #
Qty
31
Cabinet Side, Right
69675B
1
1
Drqft Blower Assembly
69190
1
32
Receptacle, Snap-In
80351
1
2
FAD Bracket
69192
1
33
Cabinet Back
69573B
1
3
Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1”
83379
2
34
Insulation, Panel
C98871
2
4
Lock Nut, 1/4-20
83261
2
35
Cabinet Top
69088B
1
5
Kep Nut, 10-24
83244
3
36
Front Filler
69674B
1
37
Draft Cover
23818B
1
38
Room Blower - 800 CFM
80530
2
16
Hinge Pin, 5/16” x 1”
1
2
4
3
5
UFB908 COLD AIR RETURN / FILTER
BOX - OPTIONAL KIT
DOMESTIC HOT WATER COIL KIT OPTIONAL
As mentioned earlier in this manual, a cold air return and/or filter box
should be incorporated into your furnace installation. A cold air return or filter box will increase the life of your blowers and offer filtered
distribution air for your home. The model UFB908 is offered as an
option and can be purchased from your local dealer.
The UFB908 utilizes a standard 16” x 20” filter that can be purchased
from your local dealer or any hardware/duct work supply store. When
installing a UFB908, follow the installation instructions supplied with
the kit.
2
1
ACCESS
PANEL
3
REAR WALL OF
FIREBOX
5
4
DOMESTIC HOT WATER
COIL
DR6 - 6” DRAFT REGULATOR KIT OPTIONAL KIT
1. NUT
2. WASHER
3. GASKET
TURN INSIDE NUTS UP
TO END OF THREADS
6
This Furnace will accept the installation of a Domestic Hot Water Coil
Kit. The kit is a 1124 Water Coil and it may be purchased from your
local dealer.
1. Remove the access panel on the rear of the furnace enclosure.
2. With a utility knife, cut away a section of the insulation (if
equipped) directly behind the access panel.
3. Remove the cover plate from the rear of the furnace firebox.
4. Place one nut on each end of the water coil and thread each nut up
to the end of the threads on the coil.
In the unlikely event that your furnace “overfires” (a condition evidenced by elbows, stove pipes, and connectors glowing red in appearance or otherwise discoloring), then your installation is subject
to excessive draft created by either a chimney too tall or too great in
diameter in conjunction with its height, or some other factor of an indeterminate cause. In this event, you should install a barometric draft
regulator. Such installation will preclude any over-firing and/or any
hazardous consequences of potential overfiring.
Barometric draft regulators are generally available where you purchased your stove.
5. Insert the coil through the holes from the inside of the firebox.
Install a gasket, washer and nut onto each end of the water coil.
Tighten the nuts down securely to insure an air tight seal.
The installation is now ready to be plumbed to your existing hot water
system. Choose one of the three methods described in the Hot Water
Coil instructions.
6. Remove knockouts from the access panel and re-attach to the furnace enclosure.
Have a qualified plumber connect your domestic hot water pipe to the
coil with the appropriate fittings.
17
BULLETIN RC454
A GUIDE TO BURNING COAL IN YOUR FURNACE
Furnaces that are capable of burning coal usually will burn
both Bituminous and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps
the best coal fuel because of its long even burn time, high heat
output, and cleanliness which make it a good choice for the
home. However, keep in mind it is a much more difficult fuel to
use, requires more care and patience, is not so widely available,
and is usually much more expensive than Bituminous.
SIZE OF COAL:
Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will work in a coal furnace; for
best results we recommend large “nut” coal to small “egg” coal
(1-3/4” diameter to 4” diameter). When burning Anthracite,
use “egg” or “broken” with sizes between 2-5/16” thru 4-3/8”.
Note that it is important to the long life of your stove to buy
coal which has been sized and cleaned. Cleaning insures removal of rocks and other minerals. Never use coal smaller than
1” or larger than 5” in diameter. Small sized coal will smother
the fire. Too large a size of coal will not burn well.
STOVE OPERATION:
All coal fires should be started with wood which will allow the
fire to get hot enough to ignite the coal. The best ignition fires
utilize dry pine or other resinous soft woods as kindling, with
hard wood (oak, hickory, ash) added to increase the heat prior
to addition of the coal.
Before starting the fire, open the stove pipe damper (if
equipped), turn the thermostat to high, open the ash pit door
and feed door, place newspaper and finely split kindling on the
grate, light the paper, add larger hard wood after the kindling is
burning brightly. CAUTION: Never use gasoline, lantern fuel,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or other flammable liquids to
start or freshen up a fire in any heater. Place the larger pieces of
wood on the fire so that they are slightly separated and form a
level for the addition of coal. It will take 10 to 20 minutes before
this wood is thoroughly ignited. Adding coal too soon will cut
the air supply and smother the fire.
BURNING BITUMINOUS:
Once your kindling and wood fire has produced a bed of well
established coals, start adding coal in layers allowing each to
ignite before adding more. Bituminous has a high volatile content and, as a result, should be fired with the “conical method”
- with the highest portion of your fire bed in the center of the
firebox. The first flames will be long and generally orange or
yellow and produce quite a bit of smoke. As the gases burn
off the flames become shorter, change color and produce less
smoke.
Once the fire is WELL ESTABLISHED add coal to the center of
the firebox forming the cone. Burning in this fashion allows heat
to drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence created increases
the burn efficiency. There will have to be some experimenting
18
with the individual setup as no two chimney’s or installations
are going to be the same. Just remember to allow enough air to
enter the firebox and keep the stove pipe damper open so that
volatiles are properly burned. Before refueling, take the time to
break up the cone a little with a poker, especially if it has caked
over or formed a crust. But, be careful not to mix the coal as
this increases the chances of forming clinkers. When shaking
the grate(s) be gentle. Just a few short movements - a couple of
“cranks” - is better than a lot of agitation. The objective is to
remove a small amount of the ashes without disturbing the fire.
Stop when you see a glow in the ashes or the first red coals fall
into the ash pan. Excessive shaking wastes fuel and can expose
the grate(s) to very high temperatures which can cause warpage or burnout.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time) shake the
fire and add coal, retaining the center cone. Once the volatiles
are burned off, close the feed door and adjust the stove pipe
damper, if equipped. Then adjust the thermostat to the desired
heat level.
More MAINTENANCE will be needed with bituminous coal
than with anthracite coal as more soot will collect on heating
surfaces and in pipes, requiring more frequent cleaning.
ANTHRACITE:
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to the
wood fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or cut off
the draft. Then, add a second heavier layer after the coal is ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a third layer to bring
the coal up to the top of the front liner (not above!). Be sure to
close the ash door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure to leave a red spot of glowing coals in the center of the firebox to insure that the fire has
not been smothered and to help ignite the gases given off by
the new charge. A deep charge will give a more even heat and
a longer fire, but it may take one to two hours before the whole
bed is fully ignited.
When the fire is well established and the room is becoming
warm, partially close the dampers. Some experimenting will
have to take place with each particular setting of all dampers
and controls as the chimney provides the draft necessary to
not only exhaust the smoke, but to pull combustion air into the
heater as well - and no two chimney’s perform the same. Under
ideal draft conditions, one should be able to turn the secondary
air supply below the feed door (some models) to a near closed
position - but leave the ash pit damper at least partially open to
prevent the fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper
to reduce the draft on the fire. With anthracite there will be
short blue flames above the coal, except when the fire is started
or a new charge is added. If, however, there is no flame then the
fire needs more air from the bottom (unless it is near the end of
its burn cycle and needs to be recharged).
BULLETIN RC454
A GUIDE TO BURNING COAL IN YOUR FURNACE
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth it
is time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open the stove pipe
damper and turn the thermostat damper to high, which will
allow the fire to burn off any accumulated gases. Open the
feed door, and with a small rake, hoe, or hooked poker pull
the glowing coals to the front of the firebox. Try not to disturb
the fire too much. Next, add a fresh charge to the back being
careful not to seal off the top. Close the feed door, but leave the
spin damper (or thermostat) open for a few minutes until the
volatile gases have burned off. It is not necessary to shake down
the ashes each time you refuel the furnace. Experience will be
your best teacher.
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous coal,
sub bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (sometimes called channel coal or candle coal).
NEVER burn wax or chemically impregnated sawdust logs their intended use is for fireplaces only.
NEVER fill the stove or furnace above the firebrick or cast iron
liner.
BANKING THE FIRE:
For extended operation, such as overnight, the fire will need to
be banked. To do so heap coal up along the sides and back of
the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it over a longer period of time. The intensity of the fire will also be reduced without letting it go out. Follow the same procedure as for refueling.
If possible, avoid shaking, as a heavier layer of ash will help
reduce the intensity of the fire during this time. After loading,
let the fire establish itself for about 30 minutes. Then close your
damper and automatic control to the point where the house
does not become too cold. It is important that you begin banking early enough before retiring or leaving that you can make
necessary adjustments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, (1) open the ash door
and stove pipe damper and close the spin damper under the
door to get a good draft through the grate. (2) place a thin layer
of dry coal over the entire top of the fire. DO NOT POKE OR
SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after the fresh coal has
become well ignited shake the grate (just a little), refuel.
19
HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS
This manual will help you obtain efficient, dependable service from the furnace, and enable
you to order repair parts correctly.
Keep this manual in a safe place for future reference.
When placing an order or for warranty claims, please provide the following information
found on the Certification Plate located below the ash door.
PART NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NUMBER - SF747
SERIAL NUMBER______________
United States Stove Company
227 Industrial Park Road
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
(423) 837-2100
Customer Service: (800)-750-2723 • Repair Parts: (888) 299-1440
20
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF

advertisement