Royal Enfield 350 BULLET 1957 Workshop Maintenance Manual

Document

WORKSHOP
ROYAL ENFIELD
WORKSHOP MANUAL
MAINTENANCE MANUAL
FOR THE
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Enfield
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350 BULLET 1956 on
500 BULLET 1956 on
350 CLIPPER 1958 on
Including AIRFLOW models
And TRIALS WORKS REPLICA
MAN7
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
Contents
1956-62 &quot;350 Bullet&quot; and &quot;500 Bullet&quot;, 1958--61 &quot;350 Clipper&quot; (including
&quot;Airflow&quot; models) and Trials &quot;Works Replica&quot; 1958 onwards
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350 DATA TECHNICAL
SECTION A14b
500 DATA TECHNICAL
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SECTION A14a
SERVICE OPERATIONS WITH ENGINE IN FRAME
SECTION D2
SERVICE OPERATIONS WITH ENGINE REMOVED
SECTION G2k
SECTION H5
HEAD AND TAIL LAMPS
FRAME
FRONT FORK
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SECTION J1
BATTERY
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SECTION G5d
GENERATOR/RECTIFIER CHARGING SET
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SECTION G4a
SR1 MAGNETO
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SECTION G1e
CARBURETTER
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SECTION F4
GEARBOX AND CLUTCH
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SECTION E1
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SECTION C14
FRONT WHEEL (DUAL BRAKE)
SECTION K7
FRONT WHEEL (7” SINGLE BRAKE)
SECTION L12
REAR WHEEL (NON-DETACHABLE)
SECTION M2 and M4
SECTION P1
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SECTION L13
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SECTION K6
REAR WHEEL (QUICKLY DETACHABLE)
SPECIAL TOOLS
AIRFLOW FAIRING
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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350 BULLET 1961
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION A14a
Technical Data
350 Bullet 1956-62, 350 Clipper and Trials Works Replica 1958-62
Cubic Capacity ...
Stroke ...
...
Bore
...
...
Guide Hole in Cylinder Head (All
Bullets and Trials; Clipper,
1960 onwards only)
.622/.623 in.
Guide Hole in Cylinder Head (Clipper
up to 1959) .................... ... ....... ...... .622/ .623 in.
Tappet Stem Dia. (all models)
.375/.374 in.
Tappet Guide Internal Dia. (all
models)
.3760/.3752 in.
Tappet Guide External Dia. (all
models)
.7510/.7505 in.
Guide Hole in Crankcase (all models)
.750/.749 in.
Tappet Clearance with cold engineInlet .................... ... ....... ... ....... ................. Nil
Exhaust ............. ... ....... ... ....... ................. Nil
Valve Spring Free LengthInner .................. ... ....... ... ....... .....
2.02 in.
Outer
....
2.095 in.
(Renew when reduced by 3/16 in.)
Valve Timing with .012 in. clearanceExhaust Opens ........... ... ....... .... 75&deg; before B.D.C
Exhaust Closes ............ ... ....... ..... 35&deg; after T.D.C.
Inlet Opens .................. ... ....... ... 30&deg; before T.D.C.
Inlet Closes ............................. ..... 60&deg; after B.D.C.
Cam Spindle External Diameter ...
.6240/.6235 in.
Cam Bush Internal Diameter ........ ... .6255/.6250 in.
Cam Lift ............................................ ...
.3125 in.
Valve Lift (approximately) ............. ...
.3125 in.
Contact Breaker (Coil Ignition)Speed
........... ... ....... ... ....... ... 1/2 Engine Speed
Points
........... ... ....... ... .....
.014/.016 in.
Timing .. .......
1/2 - 7/16 in. before T.D.C.
MagnetoSpeed
........... .......... ..........
1/2 Engine Speed
Points
........... ... ....... ...
.012/.015 in.
Timing ........... .......... 1/2 - 7/16 in. before T.D.C.
Engine Sprocket (Bullet and Clipper)
25 teeth
Engine Sprocket (Trials) ................. ............. 20 Teeth
Clutch Sprocket (all models) ......... ............. 56 Teeth
Final Drive Sprocket (Bullet)
............. 20 Teeth
Final Drive Sprocket (Trials)
............. 17 Teeth
Final Drive Sprocket (Clipper up
to 1959) ............. ....... ... ....... ... .......... 15 Teeth
Final Drive Sprocket (Clipper, 1960
onwards) ................ ....... ... ....... ... .......... 20 Teeth
Primary ChainType ....... .............. ....... ... ....... ...Duplex No. 114038
................. ........... .......... .......... .............Endless
Length .............. .... 90 Pitches (Trials 88 Pitches)
Width
.............. ....... ... ....... ...
.628 in.
Pitch
.............. ....... ... ....... ...
.375 in.
Feed Oil Pump
Speed .............................. ....... ... ....... ... 1/12 Engine Speed
Piston Diameter ... ....... ... ....... .. .24975/.24950 in.
Stroke .................... ....... ... ....... ... ............ .5 in.
Return Oil Pump
Speed ..................... ....... ... ....... ... 1/12 Engine Speed
Piston Diameter ... ....... ... ....... .. .37475/.37450 in.
Stroke .................... ....... ... ....... ... ............ .5 in.
Sparking PlugType .......... Lodge H.14, KLG F.70, Champion L10S,
...................
(Trials: Lodge HN)
Diameter ... ........... ....... ... ....... ... ........... 14 mm.
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... ...
...
346 c.c.
...
...
90 mm.
... Nominal ..
70 mm.
Actual
69.874 mm./2.751 in.
(Rebore to .020 in. when wear exceeds .0065 in. and again
to .040 in. after a further .0065 in. wear.)
Compression Ratios:
350 Bullet to 1958, 350 Clipper
to 1959, and all Works Replica
models
7.25 to 1
350 Bullet, 1959 onwards, and
350 Clipper, 1960 onwards
........ 7.75 to 1
Piston DiameterBottom of Skirt-Fore and Aft 69.811/69.786 mm.
Top Lands
... 69.32/69.27 mm.
Piston Rings
Width-Plain Rings. (Two)
.0635/.0625 in.
Scraper Ring. (One)
.156/.155 in.
Radial Thickness ......................... .3.085/2.833 mm.
Clearance in Grooves-Plain Rings .003/.001 in.
Scraper Ring .004/.002 in.
(Renew Piston Rings when gap exceeds 1/16 in.)
Oversize Pistons and Rings available up to +0.060 in.
Piston Boss Internal Diameter
.7501/.7499 in.
Gudgeon Pin Diameter ........... ......... .7501/.7499 in.
Con. Rod Small End Diameter
.7507/.7505 in.
Con. Rod Big End Diameter...........1.62625/1.62575 in.
Crank Pin Diameter
..... ......1.24900/1.24875 in.
Con. Rod Floating Bush:
Outside Diameter ........ ... ........... . 1.6235/1.6230 in.
Inside Diameter ........... ... ........... . 1.2502/1.2498 in.
Width
.983/.980 in.
Driving Side Main Ball and Roller Bearings
Later type 350 Bullet and Works Replica, and
350 Clipper, 1960 onwards, use SKF.CRL.8 and
SKF.RLS.8. Up to 1959 350 Clipper, use two
SKF.RLS.8 bearings.
Outside Diameter ........ ... ........... ...
2.25 in.
Inside Diameter ........... ... ........... ...
1 in.
Width
.625 in.
Timing Side Main Roller BearingOutside Diameter ........ ... ........... ...1.876/1.875 in.
Inside Diameter ... ....... ... ........... ...1.5002/1.4998 in.
Width .................. ... ....... ...
.750 in.
Size of Rollers:
Diameter ............ ... ....... ..
.2500/.2490 in.
Length .........................................
.328/.327 in.
Graded rollers are available in steps of .0001 from .2490
to .2500 in.
Rocker Bearing Inside Diameter ...
.626/.625 in.
Rocker Spindle Diameter .................
.6240/.6235 in.
Inlet Valve Stem Diameter ................
.3430/.3425 in.
Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter
.3410/.3405 in.
Valve Guide Internal Diameter (All
Bullets and Trials; Clipper,
1960 onwards only) ................
.3447/.3437 in.
Valve Guide External Diameter (All
Bullets and Trials; Clipper,
1960 onwards only)
.6275/.6270 in.
Valve Guide Internal Dia. (Clipper,
up to 1959)
.3452/.3442 in.
Valve Guide External Dia. (Clipper,
up to 1959)
... ....... ... ..........
.625/.623 in.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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500 BULLET 1956
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION A14b
Technical Data
&quot; 500 Bullet Engine &quot; 1956 onwards
Cubic Capacity ...
Stroke ...
..
Bore
...
Tappet Guide External Diameter
.7510/.7505 in.
Guide Hole in Crankcase ..................... ......
.750/.749 in.
Tappet Clearance with cold engine
Inlet
...
Nil
Exhaust ................. ............ ... ........................... Nil
Valve Spring Free Length
Inner (Earlier Type)
... ......... ... ......... 2 .032 in.
Outer (Earlier Type)
... ......... ............ 2.095 in.
Inner (1959 onwards)
... ......... ... .........
1.5 in.
Outer (1959 onwards)
............ ... ........ 1.11/16 in.
(Renew when reduced by 3/16 in.)
Valve Timing with 012 in. clearance.
Exhaust Opens ............ ... ......... ... . 75&deg; before B.D.C.
Exhaust Closes ............ ... ......... ... 35&deg; after T.D.C.
Inlet Opens
............ ... ......... ... . 40&deg; before T.D.C
Inlet Closes
............ ... ......... ... 70&deg; after B.D.C.
Cam Spindle External Diameter
...
.6240/.6230 in.
Cam Bush Internal Diameter ............... ..
.6255/.6250 in.
Cam Lift .................................................... ... ....
.3125 in.
Valve Lift (approximately) .................... ... ....
.3125 in.
Contact Breaker (Coil Ignition)Speed
... ........ ............ ... ......... ... .. 1/2 Engine Speed
Points
... ........ ............ ... ......... ...
.014/.016 in.
Timing
........... ............ ... ......... 5/16 in. before T.D.C.
Magneto
Speed
... ........ ............ ... ......... ... .. 1/2 Engine Speed
Points
... ........ ............ ... ......... ..
.012/.015 in.
Timing
... ........ ............ ... ......... 5/16 in. before T.D.C.
Engine Sprocket ............ ............ ... ......... ... ........... 25 Teeth
Clutch Sprocket
............ ... ........................ 56 Teeth
Final Drive Sprocket.
Solo ........... ... ........ ............ ... ......... ... ........... 21 Teeth
Sidecar .................. ............ ... ......... ... ........... 18 Teeth
Primary Chain..
Type .......... ... ........ ............ ... ......... ... Duplex No. 114038
.................... ........... ............ ............ .............. Endless
Length
... ........ ............ ... ......... ... ..........90 Pitches
Width
... ........ ............ ... ......... ...
.628 in.
Pitch
... ........ ............ ... ......... ...
.375 in.
Feed Oil Pump
Speed ............................... ............ ... ......... ... 1 /12 Engine Speed
Piston Diameter ............ ... ......... ... .24975/.24950 in.
Stroke .............................. ............ ... ......... ...
.5 in.
Return Oil Pump
Speed ............................... ............ ... ......... ... . 1/12 Engine Speed
Piston Diameter ............ ...
.37475/.37450 in.
Stroke ................... ............ ... ......... ...
.5 in.
Sparking Plug
Type ........... ... ........ ............ .. ..... Lodge HLN, KLG FE80
Champion NA8 (not 1959) Long Reach
Diameter ... ........ ............ ... ..........................14 mm.
.626/.625 in.
.6240/.6235 in.
.5617 .5615 in.
.5627/.5622 in.
.3430/.3425 in.
.3410/.3405 in.
.3447/.3437 in.
.6275/.6270 in.
.626/.625 in.
.375/.374 in.
.3760/.3752 in.
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Rocker Bearing Inside Diameter
Rocker Spindle Diameter .................... ...
Rocker Spindle Dia., 1959 onwards
Rocker Bush Diameter, 1959 onward
Inlet Valve Stem Diameter
Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter
Valve Guide Internal Diameter
Valve Guide External Diameter
Guide Hole in Cylinder Head
Tappet Stem Diameter ................ ........ ...
Tappet Guide Internal Diameter
...
s.
Size of Rollers.
Nominal Size
........... ...1/4 in. dia. x 21/64 in. long
Diameter ................... ........ ... ........... .2500/.2490 in.
Length ................................ ..
.328/.327 in.
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Timing Side Main Roller Bearing..
Outside Diameter ............ ... ............ 1 .876/ 1 .875 in.
Inside Diameter ... ........ ... ............1.5002/1 4998 in.
Width ......................... ........ ... ............
.750 in.
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Driving Side Main Ball and Roller Bearings
SKF.CRL.8 and SKF.RLS.8.
Outside Diameter ............................. .... 2.25 in.
Inside Diameter ................ ... ............ .... 1 in.
Width ......................... ........ ... ............ .625 in.
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...
...
...
499 c.c.
...
...
90 mm.
... Nominal ..
84 mm.
Actual .. 3.30725/3.30675 in.
(Rebore to .020 in. when wear exceeds .008 in. and again to
.040 in. after a further .008 in. wear.)
Compression Ratio .................................. . .. 6.5 to 1
Compression Ratio, 1959 onwards ............. 7.25 to 1
Piston Diameter.
Bottom of Skirt.Fore and Aft ... 3.3047/3.3042 in.
Top Lands
... ..... 3.284/3.281 in.
Piston Rings
Width.Plain Rings (Two)
...
.063/ .062in.
Scraper Ring (One)
...
.156/.155 in.
Radial Thickness .............................
.115/.108 in.
Clearance in Grooves.Plain Rings
.0035/.0015 in.
Scraper Ring
.0035/.0015 in.
(Renew Piston Rings when gap exceeds 1/16 in.)
Oversize Pistons and Rings available... .020 in. and .040 in.
Piston Boss Internal Diameter
...
.7500/.7497 in.
Gudgeon Pin Diarreter ............ ... ............
.7500/.7497 in.
Con. Rod Small End Diameter
.. ... .7507/.7505 in.
Con. Rod Big End Diameter ... ............ ..1.62625/ 1.62575 in.
Crank Pin Diameter
... ............ .. 1.24900/1.24875 in.
Con. Rod Floating Bush.
Outside Diameter ............. ... ............ ..1.6235/1.6230 in.
Inside Diameter ................ ... ............ .. 1.2502/12498 in.
Width ......................... ........ ... ............
.983/.980 in.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION C 14
Service Operations with Engine in Frame
&quot; 350 and 500 Bullet,&quot; 1956 -62, &quot; 350 Clipper &quot;
and Trials &quot;Works Replica&quot; 1958 -62
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through the relief valve can be seen. It may take
several minutes before there is sufficient oil in the
engine for the return flow through the relief valve
to commence.
2. Valve Timing
The cams are integral with the cam pinions and
the position for correct timing is marked on the
pinions by small dots.
Rotate the engine to top dead centre and put
the exhaust (or right-hand) cam pinion in position
so that the pair of dots on it are opposite the pair
of dots on the timing pinion on the crankshaft.
Put the inlet (or left-hand) cam pinion in
position so that the single dot on it is opposite the
single dot on the exhaust cam pinion.
The correct timing at .012 in. tappet clearance
is as follows
&quot;350 Bullet&quot;
Exhaust opens 75&deg; before bottom dead centre.
Exhaust closes 35&deg; after top dead centre.
Inlet opens 30&deg; before top dead centre.
Inlet closes 60&deg; after bottom dead centre.
&quot;500 Bullet&quot;
Exhaust opens 75&deg; before bottom dead centre.
Exhaust closes 35&deg; after top dead centre.
Inlet opens 40&deg; before top dead centre.
Inlet closes 70&deg; after bottom dead centre.
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1. Removal of the Timing Cover
First place a tray under the engine to catch the
oil which will escape when the cover is removed.
Remove the exhaust pipe and silencer.
Remove ten screws from the cover, taking care
not to lose the sealing washers, one for each
screw.
Draw off the timing cover, tapping it lightly if
necessary.
In refitting the timing cover see that the joint
washer is correctly located over the oil holes, using
a little grease (not compound) to hold it in
position.
See that the cork plug is in position in the hole
in the pump worm. If the plug is damaged it
should be renewed to ensure oil pressure to the big
end bearing.
When refitting the timing cover it is important
that the engine is turned gently forwards while the
cover is being put in place. This will help the
engagement of the pump worm with the pump
spindle and prevent damage to the gears.
The filter chamber should be filled with
clean oil before the timing cover is refitted.
To verify that the oil pumps are working after
replacing the timing cover, start the engine up and
remove the oil filler cap so that the oil return
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3. Tappet Adjustment
The tappets are adjusted by the ball and socket
joints which are located in a compartment at the
side of the cylinder and access to which is obtained
by removing the inspection cover.
Before checking the clearance or making any
adjustment, rotate the engine until the piston is at
the top of the firing stroke. This will ensure that
both valves are closed and that the tappets are
well clear of the silencing ramps on the cams. If
the cylinder head has been dismantled, make sure
that the end caps have been put back on the valve
stems.
Later type &quot;350 and 500 Bullet&quot; valves have
hardened ends and are not fitted with detachable
end caps.
Because of the ball and socket joints at the
bottom of the push rods, the tappet clearance
cannot be measured there, but between the valve
Section C14 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
stems and rockers, with the rocker box covers
removed. To remove the rocker box covers the
petrol tank must be taken off. (See Subsection 5.)
The correct clearance is nil or as little as
possible with the engine COLD.
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Section C14 Page 2
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4. Ignition Timing
The setting of the ignition depends upon the
position of the magneto or contact breaker drive
pinion relative to the shaft.
To obtain access to the pinion it is necessary to
remove the timing cover (see Subsection 1).
On engines fitted with magneto and
autoadvance mechanism, the latter is in unit with
the driving pinion, and is held to the shaft on a
smooth taper and secured by a nut having a
right-hand thread.
There is some difference in all &quot;350 Clipper&quot;
(see subsection 18) and all &quot;Trials&quot; models, and in
&quot;350 and 500 Bullets&quot; from 1960 onwards.
To remove the pinion and the auto-advance
device, unscrew the nut and this will draw the
pinion off.
Before setting the timing remove the magneto
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To make the adjustment hold the push rod
bottom end (top hexagon) and turn the locknut
(middle hexagon) to the left. Screw the push rod
cup (bottom hexagon) to the left to take up
clearance or to the right to increase the clearance,
at the same time holding the push rod bottom end
(top hexagon). Lock the adjustment by tightening
the locknut against the push rod end and then
recheck the clearance.
Owing to the initial bedding down of the
wearing surfaces, the tappets on new engines may
require adjustment after the first few hundred
miles.
cover and adjust the contact breaker points to a
clearance of .015 in. when fully opened.
Because of the auto-advance mechanism, the
timing is normally in the &quot;retard&quot; position when
the engine is stationary. Rotate the two halves of
the coupling relatively to each other against the
springs, i.e. into the &quot;advance&quot; position, and hold
it in this position by a piece of wire.
To set the timing, turn the engine until the
piston is 1/2-7/16 in. for the 350 c.c. Engine, or
3/8-5/16 in. for the 500 c.c. Engine, before top
dead centre on the compression stroke, i.e. with
both valves closed.
Insert a thin piece of paper between the point
of the contact breaker and turn the magneto
forwards (or clockwise looking on the contact
breaker) until the paper can just be pulled out.
Tighten the pinion and auto-advance device on
to the shaft, taking care that it does not slip.
Remove the piece of wire holding the
auto-advance mechanism.
The timing can be checked by removing the cap
from the magneto and holding the rotor in the
advanced position by means of a screwdriver,
without the necessity of taking off the timing
cover.
On no account must the cam be altered
from its original position on the rotor shaft or
the efficiency of the magneto will be affected.
For all &quot;350 Clippers,&quot; the auto-advance
mechanism used is of a different type from that on
the &quot;350 Bullet&quot; up to 1959, and the engine must
be checked and set in the fully retarded position.
This and the following remarks apply to &quot;350 and
500 Bullets,&quot; 1960 onwards.
Gap setting should be .015 in. to .018 in. and
the engine should be timed so that the contact are
on the point of opening when the piston is 1/16 in.
before top dead centre.
The best way to check the opening point is to
switch on the ignition and rotate the engine slowly
until the ammeter needle returns to its central
position.
To adjust the timing, slacken the clamping bolt
on the contact breaker housing and rotate the
housing. If the timing cover has been dismantled,
start with the contact breaker housing so that the
name on the cover is roughly horizontal.
&quot;Works Replica.&quot; The contact breaker should
be set so that the points are just breaking when the
piston is 7/16 in. before top dead centre on the
compression stroke, ignition fully advanced.
5. Removal of the Petrol Tank
Turn off the petrol tap.
Disconnect the petrol pipe.
Remove the bolt which holds the front of the
tank to the frame, pull upward, to release the
spring clip holding the tank at the rear.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
the rocker will help to ensure this. See that the
valve stem caps are in place.
After the engine has been run long enough to
get thoroughly hot, the tightness of the nuts
should be rechecked.
It will be found convenient for this purpose
to use a small auxiliary petrol tank while the
engine is being warmed up on the stand, because
all the cylinder head nuts are not accessible with
the proper tank in position.
See that the rocker box gaskets are intact and
replace the rocker box covers.
After tightening the cylinder head nuts with
the engine hot, recheck the tappet clearance at
some convenient time when the engine is cold.
&quot;500 Bullet,&quot; 1959 onwards
Remove the cylinder head steady bar, exhaust
pipe, carburettor, plug lead and the decompressor
cable at the handlebar end. Disconnect the rocker
oil feed pipes. Unscrew the five long nuts on the
top of the head, the nut adjacent to the sparking
plug and the sleeve nut by the decompressor.
Withdraw the five studs from the crankcase the
have squared ends to take a spanner.
Remove the rocker covers, rockers and push
rods. The rockers are removed by undoing the
nuts at either end; one of these nuts is bored and
tapped to take the oil union. Slide out the
spindle, taking care that the spring washer at the
push rod end and the plain washer at the other
end do not fall down the push rod tunnel.
Withdraw the push rods and lift the head.
For replacement reverse the order of the
above instructions. Make the joint between
cylinder head and barrel carefully as described in
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6. Removal of the Cylinder Head
&quot;350 Bullet,&quot; &quot;350 Clipper,&quot; &quot;Works
Replica&quot; and early &quot;500 Bullet&quot;
Remove the petrol tank (see Subsection 5).
Disconnect the engine steady.
Disconnect the plug lead and oil pipe.
Remove the exhaust pipe.
Push the carburettor back clear of the studs
after removing the fixing nuts.
Remove the rocker box covers.
Remove the decompressor cable from the
lever on the handlebar.
Turn the engine until both valves are closed.
Remove the rockers and bearings complete by
undoing four 1/4 in. nuts on each.
Lift out the push rods.
Remove six nuts, taking care not to lose the
washers.
Remove the 1/4 in. nut above the tappet chest
to avoid possible damage to the crankcase.
Lift the cylinder head off the barrel, tapping it
gently beneath the exhaust and inlet ports with a
hide hammer to break the carbon seal. Do not tap
the fins.
When fitting the head again, apply jointing
compound to both sides of the gasket, replace the
six nuts and tighten them progressively and
diagonally from one side to the other to prevent
distortion.
Replace the 1/4 in. nut above the timing
chest.
Replace the push rods with the adjustable parts
downwards, remembering that the shorter rod is
the inlet.
Replace the rockers and bearings, making sure
that the oil feed holes are at the bottom and that
the caps and bases are in line when tightened
down. A sharp tap with a hammer on the end of
Section C14 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
burrs are not removed and the valve is forced out,
the guide may be damaged.
8. Removal of the Rockers
See Subsection 6.
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the foregoing paragraph. Replace the push rods
and the five long studs in the crankcase,
tightening these very carefully. Replace all the
securing nuts, tightening them progressively to
avoid distortion.
Replace the rocker spindles, inserting them
through the box, through the spring washer held
at the push rod end, through the rocker and the
plain washer at the valve end and through the
other side of the rocker box. Put on the nuts, test
the rockers for freedom, replace the oil unions
and the rocker box covers. Deal with the sparking
plug, carburettor, exhaust pipe, decompressor
cable and head steady and so complete the
assembly.
9. Removal of the Valve Guides
To remove the valve guides from the head two
special tools are required which can easily be made.
The first is a piece of tube with an internal bore
of not less than 7/8 in.
The second is a mandrel about 4 in. long, made
from 9/16 in. diameter bar with the end turned
down to 11/32 in. diameter for 1/2 in.
Support the cylinder head on the tube which fits
over the collar of the valve guide. Using the
mandrel, force the guide out of the head with a hand
press or by using a hammer.
To fit a new guide, support the head at the correct
angle and use a hand press and the same mandrel. If
a hand press is not available and the guide is replaced
by a hammer, use the mandrel to prevent damage to
the guide.
It is necessary to recut the valve seat to the
correct profile and grind in the valve after a guide
has been replaced.
11. Removal of the Piston
Remove the cylinder head and cylinder barrel (see
Subsections 6 and 10).
With the tang of a file remove the wire circlip
retaining the gudgeon pin on the timing side.
Extract the gudgeon pin using Special Tool No.
E.5477 (with adaptor if necessary), having first
marked the pin so that it, and the piston, may be
replaced the same way round, i.e. split skirt to the
front.
During this operation put a piece of clean rag in
the top of the crankcase to prevent foreign matter
getting in. In particular, take care not to drop the
circlip in the crankcase.
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Section C14 Page 4
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7. Removal of the Valves
Remove the cylinder head and rockers (see
Subsection 6).
Prise away the hardened steel thimble or end
cap where fitted. If this has stuck it can be
removed by means of a screwdriver.
Using a suitable compressing tool, compress
the valve springs and remove the split conical
collets from the end of the valve stem.
Slacken back the compressing tool and release
the springs.
Withdraw the valve and place its springs, top
spring collar (and bottom collar if it is loose), the
end cap and split conical collets together in order
that they may be reassembled with the valve from
which they were removed.
Deal similarly with the other valve in the head.
If the valve will not slide easily through the valve
guide, remove any slight burrs on the end of the
valve stem with a carborundum stone. If the
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10. Removal of the Cylinder Barrel
Remove the Cylinder Head (see Subsection 6).
Put the piston at bottom dead centre.
Remove the 1/4 in. nut above the tappet chest
and lift the barrel off.
When replacing the cylinder barrel, clean off the
joint faces and fit a new paper washer.
12. Decarbonising
Having removed the cylinder head as described in
Subsection 6, scrape away all carbon, with a suitable
tool, bearing in mind that you are dealing with
aluminium which is easily damaged. Scrape gently to
avoid scoring the combustion chamber or the valve
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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spring over the valve stem and beneath the head,
insert the valve into its appropriate guide, press it
on to the seat using a tool with a suction cup and
with a backwards and forwards rotary motion,
grind it on to its seat. Alternatively, a tool which
pulls on the valve stem can be used. Frequently lift
the valve and move it round so that an even and
true seating is obtained. If no light spring is
available, the lifting will have to be done by hand.
Continue grinding until a bright ring is visible on
both valve and seating.
The face and seat of the exhaust valve is cut at
45 degrees but the profile of the inlet valve is of a
special streamlined design which eliminates
pockets and sharp edges and allows a smooth flow
of gas without eddies.
If the inlet valve or its seat is pitted and
requires recutting, care must be taken to reproduce
the correct profile as shown in Fig. 6.
The cylinder head should preferably be returned
to the Works for the inlet valve seat to be recut,
but if this is not possible a special tool consisting of
an arbor and cutter is available. For the &quot;350
Bullet&quot; the arbor and cutter are No. T.2053 and
T.1891; for the &quot;500 Bullet,&quot; T.2053 and T.1892.
Great care must be exercised in using, this tool, as
it is located off the valve guide and this may be
damaged if suitable apparatus is not employed.
The inlet valve face and seat can be cut at 45
degrees in case of expediency but this may have a
deleterious effect on the performance of the
engine.
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13. Grinding in the Valves
To grind a valve, smear the seating with a little
grinding-in compound, place a light, short coil
14. Reassembly after Decarbonising
Before building up the engine, see that all parts
are scrupulously clean and place them
conveniently to hand on a clean sheet of brown
paper.
When reassembling the engine, it is advisable to
fit a new paper washer between the cylinder barrel
and the crankcase.
Smear clean oil over the piston and space the
ring gaps, having replaced the rings if these have
been removed. The taper ring is marked &quot;TOP&quot; on
the upper face. Lower the piston over the
connecting rod and insert the gudgeon pin. Fit the
circlip securing the gudgeon pin.
If the piston ring gaps exceed 1/16 in. when the
rings are in position in the barrel, new rings should
be fitted. The correct gap for new rings is .011 in. 015 in. The gap should be measured in the least
worn part of the cylinder, which will be found to
be the extreme top or bottom of the bore.
Oil the cylinder bore and lower the barrel over
the piston and seat it gently on the paper washer.
Tighten down the nut above the tappet chest and
replace the cylinder head and rockers as described
in Subsection 4.
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seats, which are of austenitic iron shrunk into the
head. Be careful not to injure the joint face which
beds down on to the head gasket.
Do not, in any circumstances, use caustic soda
or potash for the removal of carbon from
aluminium alloy.
Scrape away all carbon from the valve heads
and beneath the heads, being careful not to cause
any damage to the valve faces.
If the piston rings are removed, the grooves
can be cleaned out and new ones fitted. For
cleaning the grooves a suitable tool is a piece of
broken ring thrust into a wooden handle and filed
to a chisel point.
While the cylinder and piston are not in
position, cover the crankcase with a clean cloth to
prevent the ingress of dust and dirt of all kinds.
Do not, of course, attempt to scrape the carbon
from the piston when the mouth of the crankcase
is open.
Section C14 Page 5
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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The silencer of the &quot;350 and 500 Bullet&quot; from
1961 onwards, may be dismantled for cleaning
before refitting to the machine.
After removing the 5/16 in. nut and tab
washer in the tail, the tail piece and central body
may be drawn off the long central stud located in
the front portion of the silencer.
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15. Cleaning the Oil Filter
The oil filter is located in the timing cover
immediately below the return oil pump. The felt
element should be taken out and washed in petrol
after the first 500 miles and every subsequent
2,000 miles. Fit a new element every 5,000 mile.
The filter element is removed by unscrewing
the nut holding the end cap in position. When
reassembling the filter after cleaning, take care
that no grit or other foreign matter is sticking to
it. After emptying the filter chamber it is essential
to run the engine slowly for about five minutes to
ensure that oil is reaching the big ends. If the
timing cover has been removed, fill the filter
chamber with clean oil before replacing the cover.
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16. Overhaul of Oil Pumps
Remove the timing cover, as described in
subsection 1.
Remove the end plates from both pumps,
Remove the pump discs and plungers.
Remove the pump spindle which can be
pulled out from the front or return pump end.
Check the fit of the plungers in the pump disc,
which should have a minimum of clearance but
should be able to be moved in and out by hand.
If, when fitting a new disc or plunger, the
plunger is found to be too tight a fit, carefully lap
with metal polish until it is just free. If the pump
disc is not seating properly or if a new pump disc
is being fitted, it should be lapped to the seating
with Special Tool No. E.5425, using
carborundum 360 fine paste or liquid metal polish
until an even grey surface is obtained.
Replacement pump discs have a lip left on the
flat, at the opposite side to the lapped face. The
purpose of this is to hold the disc central in the
housing during lapping-in. It should be filed off
before the pump is finally assembled, care being
taken not to damage the lapped face.
Wash all passages, etc., thoroughly with petrol
after lapping, to remove all trace, of grinding
paste.
Section C14 Page 6
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
To take up slack in the primary chain, unscrew the
locknut and turn the adjuster beneath the curved slipper
until correct chain tension is obtained; retighten the
locknut.
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20. Removal of the Engine and Clutch Sprockets
The primary chain is endless so that it is
necessary to remove both the engine and clutch
sprockets simultaneously.
Remove the alternator stator by undoing three
fixing screws.
Remove the central hexagon nut securing the
alternator rotor, which can then be drawn off, taking
care not to lose the key.
Unscrew the engine sprocket nut using Special
fool No. E.4877. The engine sprocket is mounted on
splines and can then be removed with the clutch
sprocket.
To remove the clutch sprocket unscrew tile
clutch spring pins then lift away the spring cap,
springs and distance pieces, clutch front plate, centre
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Access to the primary chain adjuster is gained
by removing the primary chain cover, which is
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18. Removal of the Magneto or Contact
Breaker Pinion Unit
After first removing the timing cover of an
engine having magneto ignition, the pinion of the
type which incorporates an auto-advance unit is
removed by unscrewing the centre nut. This will
draw the pinion and auto-advance unit of the
shaft.
Coil ignition models: The auto-advance
mechanism in this case is in the contact breaker
unit, and the pinion is drawn off by removing the
securing nut and operating the extractor tool.
The &quot;Works Replica,&quot; which employs
magneto ignition, but no auto-advance
mechanism, also follows this procedure.
19. Primary Chain Adjustment
held in position by a single nut. Before removing the
nut, place a tray under the engine to catch the oil
from the chaincase.
Beneath the bottom run of the chain is a curved
slipper on which the chain rests and which may be
raised or lowered by turning the adjusting screw after
having first slackened the locknut.
The chain should be adjusted so that there: is &frac14; in.
up and down movement at the centre of the top run
of the chain.
After replacing the chain cover remember to
replenish the chaincase with oil.
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17. Removal of Pump Worm and Timing
Pinion
Remove the timing cover as described in
Subsection 1.
Unscrew the worm shaft by a hexagon head
behind the worm, using Special Tool No. E.5451.
This is a left-hand thread.
Withdraw the timing pinion by means of a flat
chisel placed behind the pinion and tapped gently.
When refitting the timing cover see that the
cork or rubber plug is in position in the hole in
the pump worm and is undamaged.
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Check the pump disc springs for fatigue by
assembling in the timing cover and placing the
pump covers in position. The latter should be held
1/8 in. off the timing cover if the springs are
correct.
In the case of the 500 c.c. engine see that the
steel end pads are in position on the outer ends of
the springs.
The pump spindle should be renewed if
excessive wear has taken place on the teeth.
Reassemble the oil pumps, replacing the paper
cover gaskets if necessary. Before fitting each
cover fill the pump chamber with clean oil.
Having assembled the pumps, lay the timing
cover flat and fill the oil ports by means of an oil
can. Turn the pump spindle with a screwdriver in
a clockwise direction looking on the front and it
can then be seen whether the pumps are operating
correctly.
Before replacing the timing cover on the
engine, fill the filter chamber with clean oil.
The oil feed to the big end can be checked by
partially unscrewing the feed plug in the timing
cover between the oil pumps while the engine is
running and the oil return to the tank can be
checked by removing the oil filler cap.
Section C14 Page 7
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
retaining ring and the assembly of driving and
driven clutch plates. The clutch sprocket can then
be withdrawn from the centre after removal of
the large circlip which secures it.
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21. Removal of the Tappets and Guides
It is only necessary to remove the tappets and
guides if they have become worn.
To remove the guides use Special Tool No.
E.5410.
The guide should have an interference fit of
.0015 in. to .0025 in. in the crankcase and can be
driven in with a bronze drift, care being taken
when the guide is nearly home to avoid damaging
the collar. Excessive hammering may close up the
bore of the guide which would necessitate
removing the tappet and reaming again. In no
circumstances should the guide be reamed in
position on the 350 c.c. engine as swarf might get
into the recess in the guide.
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Section C14 Page 8
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24. Removal of the Final Drive sprocket
Remove the clutch as described in Subsection
23.
Remove the primary chain tensioner
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23. Removal of the Clutch
Remove the engine sprocket and clutch
sprocket together as described in Subsection 20.
To remove the clutch centre, hold the clutch
with Special Tool No. E.4871, and remove the
centre retaining nut and washer with a box
spanner.
The clutch centre can then be withdrawn from
the shaft with Special Tool No. E.5414.
If the circlip is not removed the sprocket and
clutch centre can be removed together.
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22. Dismantling the Breather
If the breather is not operating efficiently, it
may cause pressure in the crankcase, instead of a
partial vacuum, giving rise to smoking or
overoiling. If the breather is of the disc type, see
that the discs and backplate are clean and
undamaged and that the discs are seating
properly.
When reassembling the breather, apply
jointing compound very sparingly to the back of
the steel plate taking great care to keep it away
from the discs or their seatings.
If the breather is of rubber tube type, there
are no moving parts and it is only necessary to
see that the tube is not damaged or distorted.
If the breather body is detached from the
driving side crankcase by removing the three
screws, see that the faces are clean when refitting
and apply jointing compound to ensure that the
seal is airtight.
Remove the rear half of the primary chaincase
by taking out three socket screws.
Remove the grub screw locking the final drive
sprocket nut.
Hold the sprocket and remove the nut (right
hand thread) The sprocket can then be
withdrawn.
25 Pressure Relief Valve
There are two pressure feeds to the big end
and to the rocker gear respectively. Their function
is to prevent excessive pressure and their setting is
not critical. The feed to the rocker gear comes
from the return oil from the crankcase to the tank.
The pressure relief valves are set before leaving
the Works and should not normally require to
disturbed. If, however, it is found necessary to
dismantle either of them, they can be reset as
follows.
Rocker Feed Relief Valve. This is located on
the outside of the crankcase immediately below
the lower end of the external oil pipe. It has a
hexagon head and can be removed complete by
unscrewing it out of the case.
The valve itself cannot be dismantled and if
found to be faulty, should be replaced by a new
one.
Big End Relief Valve. This is located in the
timingside crankshaft and can only be adjusted
when the crankshaft has been dismantled. It
consists of a 5/16 in. diameter steel ball and spring
held in position by a screwed plug.
The valve is set to open when the oil pressure
exceeds about 35 lb. per square inch and when set
correctly there is a movement of about 3/32 in. of
the ball off the seat. This can be measured without
dismantling the crankshaft by pushing a thin rod
through the hole in the pump worm with the oil
feed plug in the timing cover removed.
If the crankshaft is dismantled for any reason,
it is always advisable to fit a new spring to the
relief valve in case the original one has become
weak.
If the valve is set to give too high a
pressure, the pump disc will be forced off its
seating.
26. Removal of the Magneto or Contact
Breaker Unit
The magneto of all but &quot;Works Replica models”
also the contact breaker unit fitted to the &quot;350
Clipper&quot; and later &quot;Bullets,&quot; is removed taking off
the timing cover (Subsection 1) and the driving
pinion (Sub-section 18), behind which are located
three screws which secure the spigotted magneto or
contact breaker unit
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
The magneto on the &quot;Works Replica&quot; is held
by a strap and when the nut securing this has been
released, the magneto may be lifted from its
locating dowels.
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27. Fitting the Alternator
The alternator consists of two parts, the stator
and the rotor. The stator of later models is
mounted on to the three studs of the adaptor ring,
which in turn is secured to the back half of the
primary chaincase by three screws.
On earlier models the stator is of greater
diameter and mounted on to the primary chaincase
with three studs and distance pieces.
The rotor, which contains the permanent
magnet, is mounted on the end of the crankshaft
and is located by a key and secured by a nut and
spring washer on 1960/62 models, and by a nut
and tab washer on earlier models.
The radial air gap between the rotor and the
poles of the stator should be .020 in. in all positions
and care must be taken when refitting to see that it
is not less than .010 in. at any point.
Fit the rotor first, making sure that it is located
concentrically on the end of the crankshaft.
Attention must be given to the seating of the key
because a badly fitting key may cause the rotor to
run unevenly. Finally secure the rotor with the
appropriate bolt or nut and washer.
Having fitted the rotor, secure the adaptor ring
on later models with the three cheese-headed
screws, and shake-proof washers, or, in the case of
earlier models, place the three distance pieces over
the three chaincase studs. The stator may then be
fitted with the coil connections facing outward, the
leads on the inside at 12 o'clock.
Replace the nuts and shake-proof washers only
fingertight, and insert six strips (preferably of
non-magnetic material) .015 in. thick and about
1/8 in. wide between the rotor and each pole
piece.
Tighten the stator nuts and withdraw the strip.
Check the air gap with narrow feelers and less
than .010 in. at any point, remove the stator and
file or grind the pole piece carefully until the
correct gap is obtained.
An alternative, and more satisfactory method
of assembling the alternator requires the use of
Special Tool No. T2055. This is a gauge .015 in.
greater in radius than the rotor and fits over the
adaptor on the end of the crankshaft in the rotor's
place.
The stator is then put in position on the studs
in the chaincase and the nuts tightened up.
Remove the gauge and fit the rotor, then check
the air gap.
When refitting, note that the shaft may have a
large or a small keyway. The small keyway is the
latest type of fitting and the large one for the old
type. Do not fit a small key into the large keyway.
Section C14 Page 9
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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350 TRIALS WORKS REPLICA 1960—61
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350 BULLET 1959
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION D2
Service Operations with Engine Removed
“350 and 500 Bullet” Engines
The driving side inner roller race and the inner
distance piece will remain on the engine shaft.
The flywheel assembly may be difficult to
remove from the driving side of the crankcase
owing to the shaft being a tight fit in the inner
race of the ball bearings. This is particularly likely
in the earlier engines with two ball bearings. In
this case push the shaft out of the bearings using
crankshaft extractor E.5121.
4. Main Bearings
To remove the Outer roller race(s) (or inner
ball race on earlier 350 Bullet engines) from the
crankcase halves, heat to 100&deg;C or more and drop
the half case sharply on a flat block of wood or
bench, when the race(s) will drop out, together
with the distance piece in the case of the driving
side and the thrust washer in the case of the
timing side.
Remove the circlip from the driving side
crankcase and re-heat to remove the second ball
race.
To replace the bearings, heat the crankcase
and press in the races in the following order
Driving Side. Use Special Tool No. 4817.
Small steel washer.
Cork oil-retaining washer
Large steel washer.
Ball bearing complete.
Circlip.
Outer distance piece
Outer roller race
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1. Removal of the Engine from the Frame
Disconnect the battery leads and remove the
battery.
Turn off the petrol and disconnect the petrol
pipe.
Take the slides out of the carburettor.
Remove the air cleaner.
Remove the exhaust pipe.
Disconnect the electric horn leads.
Disconnect the control cable from the
magdyno.
Disconnect the engine steady.
Remove the rear chain.
Remove the footrest bar.
Support the engine on a suitable box or wood
block.
Remove the centre stand and the stand stop.
Remove the front engine plates.
Remove the bolt securing the rear engine plate
to the frame.
Lift out the engine.
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Timing Side. Use Special Tool No. 4816.
Steel thrust washer. Outer
roller race(s).
Care must be taken to see that the lead on the
outside of the outer roller race enters the case first
to make sure that it is square with the housing.
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3. Dismantling the Crankcase
350 + 500 c.c. Engine. Drain the oil tank by
removing the drain plug.
Having removed the engine from the frame as
described in Subsection 1, dismantle the cylinder
head, barrel, piston, timing gear, magdyno, etc., as
described in Section C.2.
Remove the nuts on the driving side of the
engine from four fixed studs at the rear of the
crankcase.
Remove six studs passing through the crankcase.
The two halves of the crankcase can then be
separated.
The timing side outer roller race and the bronze
bush will remain in the timing side half of the
crankcase.
The driving side ball race and the driving side
outer roller race will remain in the driving side half
of the crankcase.
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2. Removal of the Gear Box
Remove the primary chain case, engine sprocket
and clutch (see Section C.2, Subsection 24).
Remove four 3/8 in. nuts and the gearbox can
then be withdrawn from the engine.
5. Replacement of the Cam and Idler Spindles
To remove the cam spindles heat the
crankcase and tap the spindles out from inside.
Section D2 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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To remove the idler spindles heat the crankcase
as before, hold the spindles in a vice and tap the
crankcase lightly with a hide hammer.
To replace the spindles use Special Tool No.
E.6462 which is a locating plate for all the
spindles.
Start the spindles in the holes in the crankcase
by tapping them lightly.
Offer the locating plate to the spindles, making
sure that they are all upright. Tap the plate over
the spindles until it touches the timing chest face,
having first made sure that the latter is quite clean.
Drive the spindles home with a small hammer
(not heavier than J lb.) and a drift.
Remove the locating plate.
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Section D2 Page 2
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6. Flywheel Assembly
350 c.c. Engine. The flywheel assembly consists of the crankshaft and the connecting rod.
To dismantle the crankshaft remove the set
screws securing the crankpin nuts.
Holding the crankshaft in a Special Jig, No.
E.2775, remove the crankpin nuts.
Using E.2775, with a pair of steel bars (about 1
in. x 3/8 in. x 9 in. long) placed across, press out
the crankpin with a hand press.
The connecting rod can then be removed.
Turn the crankshaft over in the jig and repeat
with the other side if necessary.
To remove the main shafts, remove the set
screws from the shaft nuts and unscrew the nut.
Drive the shafts out with a hammer and drift.
To replace the main shafts, reverse the above
process, making sure that the keys are a good fit.
To re-assemble the crankshaft, press the crankpin into the timing side flywheel, making sure that
the oil hole is in the correct position and that the
thrust washer is facing the right way, i.e., with the
chamfer away from the flywheel.
Test the oil passages with an air line or oil gun
to make sure that they are clear.
Smear oil over crankpin and floating bush.
Put the floating bush over the crankpin.
Put the connecting rod over the floating bush.
Place the other thrust washer over the
crankpin, also with the chamfer away from the
flywheel.
Place the other thrust washer over the
crankpin.
Press the driving side flywheel on.
Put the flywheel in the assembly jig E.2775, to
ensure that the flywheels and shafts are in line and
replace the nuts, tighten securely and refit the set
screws.
Test the oil passages again to ensure that they
are clear.
If the same crankpin has been put back, it will
be necessary to drill out the grub screw, in order to
clean the oil passages after which a new grub screw
must be fitted.
Mount the crankshaft between centres and true
up to .0005 in. on either side of the shafts.
If the readings for the two shafts are high on
opposite sides, the error can be corrected by gently
tapping either or both of the flywheels.
If the readings are high on the same side of the
two shafts, it is probably due to dirt or foreign
matter in the joints and the crankshaft should be
dismantled again, carefully examined and cleaned
and re-assembled.
500 c.c. Engine. The flywheel assembly consists of the crankshaft and the connecting rod.
To dismantle the crankshaft remove the set
screws securing the crankpin nuts.
Holding the crankshaft in a special jig, No.
E.2775, remove the crankpin nuts.
Using E.2775 with a pair of steel bars (about 1
in. x 3/8 in. x 9 in. long) placed across, press out
the crankpin with a hand press.
The connecting rod can then be removed.
Turn the crankshaft over in the jig and repeat
with the other side if necessary.
To remove the timing side main shaft, take the
set screw from the shaft nut and unscrew the nut.
Drive the shaft out with a hammer and drift. To
replace the timing side shaft, reverse the above
process, making sure that the key is a good fit and
that the nut is tightened securely by means of a
box spanner with a 12 in. tommy bar.
The driving shaft has no nut but is secured by
tightening the sprocket nut after the assembly of
the engine. It should be pressed in and out with a
hand press or a hammer and drift. If the latter is
used care must be taken not to damage the centre.
To re-assemble the crankshaft, press the crankpin into the timing side flywheel, making sure that
the oil hole is in the correct position and that the
thrust washer is facing the right way, i.e., with
chamfer away from the flywheel.
Test the oil passages with an air line or oil gun
to make sure that they are clear.
Put the floating bush over the crankpin.
Put the connecting rod over the floating bush.
Place the other thrust washer over the
crankpin, also with the chamfer away from the
flywheel.
Press the driving side flywheel on.
Put the flywheel in the assembly jig, E.2775, to
ensure that the flywheels and shafts are in line and
replace the nuts, tighten securely and refit the set
screws.
Test the oil passages again to ensure that they
are clear.
If the same crank pin has been put back, it will
be necessary to drill out the grub screw, in order to
clean the oil passages after which a new grub screw
must be fitted.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Mount the crankshaft between centres and
true up to .0005 in. on either side of the shafts.
If the readings for the two shafts are high on
opposite sides, the error can be corrected by
gently tapping either or both of the flywheels.
If the readings are high on the same side of the
two shafts, it is probably due to dirt or foreign
matter in the joints and the crankshaft should be
dismantled again, carefully examined and cleaned
and re-assembled.
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7. Reassembly of the Crankcase
Replace the outer roller races, etc., in the
crankcase halves as described in Subsection 4.
Fit the inner distance piece and the rollers and
cage in the driving side crankcase.
Lay the thrust washer on the bearing.
Assemble the flywheel into the bearing, if
necessary using the sprocket nut with suitable
packing piece to draw the driving shaft through
the inner race(s) of the ball bearing(s).
Make sure that the crankcase face is clean and
apply jointing compound to it.
Put the thrust washer on the timing side shaft
and the rollers and cage.
Put the magdyno straps over the studs in the
timing side crankcase and place the latter in
position over the flywheel.
Bolt the two halves of the crankcase together,
making sure that the joint matches correctly so
that the cylinder base is flat.
Section D2 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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350 CLIPPER 1958
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION E1
Gearbox and Clutch
&quot; Meteor 700&quot; &quot; 500 Twin &quot; &quot; 500 Bullet&quot; &quot; 350 Bullet&quot;
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1. Removal of Gearbox
This is described in section Dl or D2. The gearbox
can, however, be completly dismantled with the engine
in the frame except for removal of the inside operator
and the bearings in the gearbox shell.
2. To Dismantle the Gearbox
First remove the kickstart crank, the gear
changelever and the neutral finder and pointer.
Remove the top small inspection cover and
disconnect the clutch cable.
Remove four screws and the gearbox outer cover
can then be detached.
Remove the gear change mechanism by taking off
the two nuts securing it.
Remove the main shaft bearing cover which is
attached by two screws.
Remove four cheese-headed screws and
hexagon bolt.
Remove the spring box locating plunger nut
and washer.
Remove the main shaft nut (Left Hand Thread).
The gearbox inner cover can then be removed
The mainshaft can be drawn straight out if the
clutch has been removed, which, however, should be
done before taking off the gearbox cover.
Section E1 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section E1 Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
(See Section C1 or C2.) The top gear pinion and
dog will come away with the mainshaft.
The layshaft can then be removed and the 2nd
and 3rd gears drawn off the final drive sleeve
together with the operator fork.
To take out the final drive sleeve, the final
drive sprocket must be removed and this is
preferably done before removing the inner cover.
(See Section C1 or C2.)
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6. Dismantling and Re-assembly of the Clutch
The method of removing the clutch is
described in Section C1 or C2.
When re-assembling, note that two of the steel
plates are dished and that the other(s) are flat. The
correct order of assembly is shown on the
exploded drawing.
Do not forget to replace the cush rubber plate
retaining cover before fitting the pressure plate.
Make sure that the distance tubes inside three
of the springs pass through the holes in the
pressure plate. The other three springs are located
by means of bosses on the clutch cap.
Tighten the spring pins as far as they will go
If the clutch lifts unevenly it is probable that one
of the springs has taken a set, in which case new
springs should be fitted.
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3. Removal of the Ball Races
The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed
by using a stepped drift 1.7/16 in.–1.11/64 in.
diameter for the bearing in the box and 13/16 in.39/64 in. diameter for the bearing in the cover.
When refitting the bearings stepped drifts
of2.5/16 in.-1.11/64 in. diameter and 1.11/16 in.39/64 in. diameter must be used for the bearings
in the box and cover respectively.
Note the felt washer in the recess behind the
larger main shaft bearing and the dished pen-steel
washer between the bearing and the felt washer.
The second dished pen-steel washer, if fitted, has
a smaller central hole and is on the other side of
the main shaft bearing and is nipped between the
inner face of the bearing and the shoulder on the
final drive sleeve. See that both of the dished
pen-steel washers have their raised portions facing
towards the clutch and final drive sprocket.
If the main shaft top gear pinion and dog have
been removed, make sure that the dog is replaced
the right way round or third and top gears can be
engaged simultaneously.
Make sure that the trunnions on the operator
fork engage with the slots in the inside operator.
See that the main shaft is pushed right home
(It may tighten in the felt washer inside the final
drive shaft nut.)
The layshaft top gear and kickstarter pinion
should be assembled on the layshaft and the
kickstarter shaft and ratchet assembled on to it
before fitting the end cover. Do not forget the
washer on the layshaft between the kickstarter
pinion and the kickstarter shaft.
The joint between the gearbox and the inner
cover should be made with gold size, shellac or a
similar jointing compound.
Make sure that all parts are clean before
commencing assembly. In normal climates the
recesses in the gearbox should be packed with soft
grease and the box should be filled up to the
correct level with gear oil. (See Subsection 9.) On
no account must heavy yellow grease be used.
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7. Adjustment of the Clutch Control
It is essential that there should be about 1/16
in. free movement in the clutch cable, to ensure
that all the spring pressure is exerted on the plate.
There are two points of adjustment for the
clutch cable. The first is at the top of the gearbox
just behind the oil filler plug and is provided for
taking up any stretch in the cable. The adjustment
is made by screwing the collar in or out of the
gearbox shell. The connection between the end of
the cable and the horizontal lever can be seen if the
top small inspection cover on the front of the
gearbox is removed. Tighten the locknut on the
screwed collar after adjustment has been made.
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5. Re-Assembling the Gearbox
The procedure is the reverse of that given in
Subsection 2 but the following points should be
noted:
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4. Gear Change Mechanism
If the two nuts securing the gear change
ratchet mechanism are slackened, the adjuster
plate can be set in the correct position. In this
position the movement of the gear lever
necessary to engage the ratchet teeth will be
approximately the same in each direction.
If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be
found that, after moving from top to third or
from bottom to second gear, the outer ratchets do
not engage the teeth on the inner ratchets
correctly.
If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the
gears do not engage properly, ascertain whether a
little more movement is required or whether there
is too much movement so that the gear slips right
through second or third gear into neutral. If more
movement is required, this can be obtained by
filing the adjuster plate very slightly at the points
of contact with the pegs on the ratchet ring.
If too much movement is already present, a
new adjuster plate giving less movement must be
fitted.
Section E1 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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The other point of adjustment is behind the
lower inspection cover on the front of the gearbox
and is for compensating for wear on the clutch
plate inserts. To make the adjustment, remove the
inspection cover, slacken the locknut and turn the
central screw. Tighten the locknut after adjustment
has been made.
The reason for the two points of adjustment is
to enable the lever behind the cover to be kept in
its proper position whether the need for
adjustment is caused by plate wear or cable stretch.
Owing to initial bedding down of the clutch
plate inserts, the clutch control may require
adjustment after the first few hundred miles with a
new machine. This point should therefore be
examined soon after delivery and adjustment made
if necessary.
On earlier models the clutch operating
mechanism is exposed on the front of the gearbox,
but the adjustments are, however, the same in
principle as those described above.
The cable adjustment is at the bottom of the
front of the gearbox just in front of the kickstart
lever. The collar is screwed in or out of a lug on
the gearbox cover and is secured by a locknut as
before.
The other adjustment is made by slackening the
clamping bolt in the horizontal lever and turning
the lever on its spindle, which is the end of the
operating worm in the gearbox cover.
When correctly adjusted, the lever should be
approximately square with the cable when the
clutch is fully lifted.
The position of the lever endwise on the worm
spindle is important and it should be positioned so
that it does not foul the kickstart lever.
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8. Adjustment of the Neutral Finder
The neutral finder is adjusted by means of an
eccentric stop secured to the front of the gearbox
cover by a bolt which limits the travel of the
operating pedal. Slacken the bolt and turn the
eccentric until the correct movement of the pedal is
obtained.
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9. Gearbox Oil Level
The gearbox is replenished with oil by removing
a plug in the top and the correct level can be
checked by removing a second plug lower down on
the right hand side looking at the cover.
On earlier models a dip-stick is attached to the
filler plug for measuring the level of the oil or was
provided loose in the tool kit.
On some models the filler plug is on the side of
the gearbox and in such cases the oil should be
level with the plug hole and no dip-stick is required.
The oil will be found to run into the box more
easily on these models if the engine is started up
and allowed to tick over so that the gears and shafts
rotate.
Section E1 Page 4
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
Amal Monobloc Carburetter
The supply of air to the engine is controlled by a
throttle slide which carries a taper needle operating
in the needle jet. The needle is secured to the
throttle slide by a spring clip fitting in one of five
grooves and the mixture strength throughout a large
proportion of the throttle range is controlled by the
position of this needle in the slide and by the size of
the jet in which it works. There is, however, a
restricting or main jet at the bottom of the needle jet
and the size of this controls the mixture strength at
the largest throttle openings. At very small throttle
openings petrol and air are fed to the engine
through a separate pilot system, which has an outlet
at the engine side of the throttle. The air supply to
this pilot system is controlled by the pilot air screw
and the slow running of the engine can be adjusted
by means of this screw and a stop which holds the
throttle open a very small amount. The throttle slide
is cut away at the back and the shape of this
cut-away controls the mixture at throttle openings
slightly wider than that required for slow running.
There is a compensating system to prevent undue
enriching of the mixture with increasing engine
speed, this system consisting of a primary choke
surrounding the upper end of the needle jet through
which air is drawn in increasing quantities as the
depression in the main choke increases. This air
supply and the supply to the pilot system are taken
from two separate ducts in the main air intake to the
carburetter so that all the air passing to the engine
can be filtered by fitting an air cleaner to the main
carburetter air intake.
Two small cross holes in the needle jet, at a level
just below the static level in the float chamber,
permit petrol to flow into the primary choke when
the engine is not running or when it is running at
very low speeds, thus forming a well of petrol
which will be drawn into the engine on starting or
accelerating from low speeds. At moderately high
engine speeds the level of petrol in the float
chamber falls slightly and in consequence no more
fuel flows through the cross holes in the needle jet
so that the petrol well remains empty until the
engine slows down or stops.
A handlebar controlled air slide is provided to
enrich the mixture temporarily when required.
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1. General Description
The Amal Monobloc Carburetter has been
introduced as an improvement on the earlier
standard needle type. In general it gives better
petrol consumption, combined with improved
starting and acceleration from low speeds and a
small increase in maximum speed.
The float chamber is integral with the mixing
chamber and contains a pivoted barrel-shaped
float operating on a nylon fuel needle. There is a
considerable leverage ratio between the float and
the needle and, in consequence, flooding is rare
unless there is dirt on the needle seating.
2. Tuning the Carburetter(s)
The throttle opening at which each tuning point
is most effective is shown in Fig. 2. It should be
remembered, however, that a change of setting at
Section F4 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
then undesirably fast it can be slowed down by
unscrewing the throttle stop a fraction of a turn.
It will be noted that of the four points at which
adjustments are normally made, i.e., pilot air
screw, throttle cut-away, needle position and main
jet size, the first and third do not require changing
of any parts of the carburetter. Assuming that the
carburetter has the standard setting to suit the
particular type of engine any small adjustments
occasioned by atmospheric conditions, changes in
quality of fuel, etc., can usually be covered by
adjustment of the pilot air screw and raising or
lowering the taper needle one notch. If, however,
the machine is used at very high altitudes or with a
very restricted air cleaner a smaller main jet will be
necessary. The following table gives the reduction
in main jet size required at different altitudes:
Altitude, ft.
Reduction, %
3,000
5
6,000
9
9,000
13
12,000
17
In the case of carburetters for engine running
on alcohol fuel considerably larger jets are
needed. In most cases a No. 113 needle jet will be
required and the main jet size will require to be
increased by an amount varying from 50% to
150% according to the grade of fuel used.
If the engine is run on fuel containing a small
proportion of alcohol added to the petrol, a rough
and ready guide is that the main jet should be
increased by 1 % for every 1 % of alcohol in the
fuel. In most cases alcohol blends available from
petrol pumps do not contain sufficient alcohol to
require any alteration to the carburetter setting.
The range of adjustment of the taper needle
and the pilot air screw are determined by the size
of the needle jet and of the pilot outlet
respectively. Standard needle jets have a bore at
the smallest point of .1065 in. and are marked
106. Alternative needle jets .1055 in., .1075 in.,
.109 in. and .113 in. bore are available and are
marked 105, 107, 109 and 113 respectively.
The standard pilot outlet bore is .025 in. but in
some cases larger size pilot outlets are used. Since
the pilot outlet is actually drilled in the body of
the carburetter it is necessary to have a
carburetter with the correct size pilot outlet if the
best results are to be obtained.
The accompanying table shows the standard
settings for Amal Monobloc Carburetters used on
Royal Enfield motor cycles.
Both instruments used for the twin carburetter
models are identical in all respects but for the float
chamber arrangement, which is as follows:
The carburetter which supplies the left-hand
cylinder has an integral float chamber which
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Third-the throttle valve should be selected with
the largest amount of cut-away which will prevent
spitting or misfiring when opening the throttle
slowly from the idling position.
Fourth-The lowest position of the taper needle
should be found consistent with good acceleration
with the air slide wide open.
Fifth-The pilot air screw should be checked to
improve the idling if possible. When setting the
adjustment of the pilot air screw this should be
done in conjunction with the throttle stop. Note
that the correct setting of the air screw is the one
which gives the fastest idling speed for a given
position of the throttle stop. If the idling speed is
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any point will have some effect on the setting
required at other points; for instance, a change of
main jet will have some effect on the mixture
strength at half throttle which, however, is mainly
controlled by the needle position. Similarly an
alteration to the throttle cut-away may affect both
the needle position required and the adjustment of
the pilot air screw. For this reason it is necessary to
tune the carburetter in a definite sequence, which
is as follows:
First-Main Jet. The size should be chosen
which gives maximum speed at full throttle with
the air control wide open. If two different sizes of
jet give the same speed the larger should be
chosen for safety as it is dangerous to run with too
weak a mixture at full throttle.
Second-The pilot air screw should be set to give
good idling. Note that the pilot jet is detachable
and two sizes are available, 25 c.c. and 30 c.c. If
the pilot air adjusting screw requires to be screwed
out less than half a turn the larger size pilot jet
should be used; if the air screw requires to be
screwed out more than 2-3 turns fit the smaller
size of pilot jet.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section F4 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
dirt is present or, of course, the float is punctured.
If it is necessary to remove the jet block note
that this is withdrawn from the upper end of the
mixing chamber after unscrewing the jet holder.
Be careful not to damage the jet block when removing or refitting it. Note that the large
diameter of the jet block pulls down on to a thin
washer.
A single strand of an inner control cable is
useful for clearing the small passages in the jet
block and care must be taken not to enlarge these
by forcing the wire through them. Compressed air
from a pipe line or a tyre pump is preferable. A
choked main jet should be cleared only by
blowing through it.
4. Causes of High Petrol Consumption
If the petrol consumption is excessive first
look for leaks either from the carburetter, petrol
pipe, petrol tap(s) or tank. If coloured petrol is in
use this will readily indicate the presence of any
small leaks which otherwise might pass unnoticed.
If the petrol system is free from leaks, carefully set
the pilot adjusting screw as described in
Subsection 2 to give the correct mixture when
idling. Running with the pilot adjusting screw too
far in is a common cause of excessive petrol
consumption. If the consumption is still heavy try
the effect of lowering the taper needle in the
throttle slide by one notch. Do not fit a smaller
main jet as this will not affect consumption except
when driving on nearly full throttle and may make
the mixture too weak at large throttle openings,
thus causing overheating. Remember that faults in
other parts of the machine can have a marked
effect on petrol consumption. Examples of this
are binding brakes, chains too tight or out of line
and, in particular, under-inflated tyres.
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also controls the fuel supply via a connecting pipe
to the right-hand instrument which does not have
a float chamber in unit with it.
It is important that the pilot air screws of both
carburetters are in identical positions, relative to
one another, the same applying to the throttle
valves when seated on their stops. This is essential
for an even smooth tickover and low-speed
running. The speed of the tickover is regulated by
these four adjuster screws. For an instant pick-up,
both throttle valves must commence to rise from
their stops simultaneously, when the twist grip is
rotated. This is obtained by adjusting the twin
control cables. Each main jet needle must be in
the third groove.
Both air slides, operated from a single
handlebar lever, must open and close identically,
as failure to do this may result in one slide not
opening fully, with a resultant loss of power.
It is most important that all of these
adjustments are carried out in a thorough and
careful manner if the maximum power and
smoothness is to be obtained.
The &quot;ears&quot; to be found on the leading edges of
the battery and toolbox lids are to shield the
carburetter air intakes and so prevent misfiring at
maximum revs.
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3. Dismantling Carburetter
The construction of the carburetter is clearly
shown in Fig. 3.
If the float chamber floods, first make sure
that there is no dirt on the fuel needle seating.
Owing to the use of a nylon needle and the
leverage ratio between float and needle, flooding
is very unlikely with this type of carburetter unless
Section F4 Page 4
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section F4 Page 5
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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1961 350 CLIPPER
1956 350 BULLET
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION G I e
Lucas Rotating Magnet Magneto Model SR1
Used on 350 Bullet 1956-59; 500 Bullet 1956-59
thus preventing the retention of moisture at the
terminal connection. The coil and capacitor are
robustly constructed and specially treated to
withstand very arduous condition.
2. Routine Maintenance
(a) Lubrication:
TAKE GREAT CARE TO PREVENT
OIL OR GREASE GETTING ON OR
NEAR THE CONTACTS.
(i) After 1,000 running hours (say 30,000 mile.)
remove the moulded cover, slacken the nut
securing the end of the contact breaker spring and
lift off the moving contact assembly. Smear the
pivot pin with a small quantity of Mobilgrease No.
2 or its equivalent.
(ii) The magneto rotor is mounted on ball
bearings. These bearings are packed with high
melting point grease before leaving the factory
and require no attention for a considerable time.
About every two years, or when the engine is
undergoing a general overhaul, the magneto
should be dismantled by a Lucas Service Depot or
Agent and the bearing repacked with high melting
point grease.
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1. General
The magneto rotor comprises a permanent
magnet fitted with two laminated pole shoes. The
stator consists of laminated pole pieces bridged by
a laminated coil core. The coil has concentrically
wound primary and secondary windings.
The rotor is driven by the engine through an
automatic advance coupling and induces an
alternating magnetic field in the laminated iron
core of the coil. This field in turn induces
alternating voltages in the primary and secondary
windings of the coil. Magnetic flux due to current
flowing in the primary winding tends to oppose
any change in direction of the magnetic field in the
laminated iron core. In this way, field reversals due
to the rotating magnet are delayed until the
contact breaker opens. This removes the
restraining influence of the primary winding and
the consequent rapid reversal of the magnetic flux
linked with the coil causes a high voltage to be
induced in the secondary winding.
The body of the magneto is formed of a single
casting enclosed at the contact breaker end by a
moulded cover. The cover is designed with the
high tension cable outlet in a downward direction,
Section G1e Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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(b) Cleanings
(i) Occasionally remove the moulded cover
and wipe the inside of the cover with a soft dry
cloth. Clean the outside of the cover before
replacing it.
(ii) Examine the contact breaker. If the
contacts are burnt or dirty, clean them by
polishing with a very fine carborundurn stone or
fine emery cloth. The contacts may be cleaned
more easily if the moving contact assembly is
removed, as Sub-section 2 (a) (i).
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(c) Adjusting Contact Breaker
After cleaning check the gap between the
contacts. Turn the engine until the contacts show
the maximum opening which should measure
0.010 in. to 0.012 in. If the setting is incorrect
slacken the two screws securing the fixed-contact
plate and move the plate until the correct gap is
obtained. Tighten the securing screws and
measure the gap again.
3. Servicing
To locate cause of misfiring or failure of
ignition, check as follows :
(i) Remove the sparking plug from the engine.
Hold the end of the high tension cable about 1/8
in. from the cylinder block and operate the
kickstarter. If strong and regular sparking is
produced the sparking plug should be cleaned
and adjusted.
(ii) If no sparking is produced, examine the
high tension cable and if necessary renew it as
described in Subsection 2 (d).
NOTE: In no circumstances must the
contact breaker cam be removed from or
turned on the spindle. The cam is correctly
positioned when the magneto is built and the
performance of the instrument depends on this
position being maintained
4. Automatic Advance Mechanism
This is automatically lubricated and requires
no attention beyond making sure that it operates
freely and the springs are securely fastened. For
timing instructions see Section C5, Subsection 4.
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(d) Replacement of High Tension Cable
Use 7 mm. neoprene-covered rubber ignition
cable for the high tension lead. When connecting
a new cable to the magneto do not bare the cable
but cut it off flush to the required length. Remove
the moulded cover, slacken the cable retaining
screw and pull out the old cable. Push the new
cable fully home and secure by tightening the
screw. The pointed end of this will pierce the
insulation, make contact with the cable core and
lock the cable in place. After fitting a high tension
cable a continuity test should be made between
the cover electrode and plug end of the cable.
Section G1e Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION G2K
Lucas A.C. Lighting-Ignition System
Used on 350 Bullet and 500 Bullet, 350 Clipper and Trials
Work Replica 1961 onwards
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1. General
The Lucas A.C. Lighting-Ignition System
comprises seven main components
(1) Alternator with magnet rotor.
(2) Bridge-connected rectifier.
(3) Ignition coil.
(4) Contact breaker unit, and automatic
timing control.
(5) Lighting switch.
(6) Ignition switch.
(7) 6-volt battery (see Section G4a).
3. Circuit Detail
The alternator stator carries three pairs of
series connected coils. One pair being
permanently connected across the rectifier bridge
network. The purpose of this latter pair is to
provide some degree of charging current for the
battery whenever the engine is running.
2. Alternator Models RM14 and RM15
Early models are fitted with type RM14
alternator, which has an outside diameter of'
5.7/8 in. Later models are fitted with type RM I 5
(see Fig. 1) with an outside diameter of 5 in. They
give a high output at low r.p.m. The alternator
comprises two main components, a stator and a
rotor. The stator is built up from iron laminations
and carries three pairs of series-connected coils
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Under normal running conditions, electrical
energy in the form of rectified A.C. passes
through the battery from the alternator, the rate
of charge depending on the position of the
lighting switch. When no lights are in use, the
alternator output is sufficient only to trickle
charge the battery. When the lighting switch is
turned to the &quot;Pilot&quot; or &quot;Head&quot; positions the
current increases proportionately.
insulated from the laminations. The rotor has a
hexagonal steel core, each face of which carries a
permanent magnet keyed to a laminated pole tip.
The pole tips are riveted circumferentially to brass
side plates, the assembly being cast in aluminium
and machined to give a smooth external finish.
The stator and rotor can be separated without the
need to fit magnetic keepers to the rotor poles.
As the rotor turns, rapid and repeated reversals
of flux take place in the coil cores. These lines cut
through the turns of the coil and induce
alternating voltages in that coil. External
connections are taken to these coils from a bridge
connected rectifier (see Fig. 2).
Connections to the remaining coils vary
according to the position of the lighting and
ignition switch controls, as shown schematically in
Fig. 3.
Section G2k Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
5. Direct Operation
Short journeys without the battery can be
made with the switch in the &quot;EMG&quot; position. To
do this, the cable normally connected to the
battery negative terminal must be connected to
an earthed point on the machine. If lights are
required when the battery is disconnected, use
only the headlights and keep the engine speed
low to prevent excessive voltage rise.
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the battery. It should be noted that with the
ignition switch at EMG and the engine running,
the battery receives a charging current, so that its
terminal voltage begins to rise. This rising voltage
opposes the alternator voltage, and, on single
cylinder machines in the event of a rider omitting
to return the ignition key to IGN after an
emergency start has been made, misfiring may
occur. This will cease on turning the ignition key
to the normal running position, IGN.
This system, which on a single cylinder
machine could cause trouble through unwanted
sparks on the compression stroke of the engine,
does not do so on the twin, owing to the fact that
the distributor permits the passage of a spark
only when the engine is near the firing position.
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Section G2k Page 2
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4. Emergency Starting
An emergency starting position is provided on
the ignition switch, for use if the battery has
become discharged and a normal start cannot
therefore be made. Under these conditions, the
alternator is connected direct to the ignition coil,
allowing the engine to be started independently of
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When no lights are in use the alternator output
is regulated to its minimum value by interaction of
the rotor flux and the flux set up by current flowing
in the short-circuited coils.
In the &quot;Pilot&quot; position these coils are
disconnected and the regulating fluxes are
consequently reduced. The alternator output
therefore increases and compensates for the
additional parking light load.
In the &quot;Head&quot; position the alternator output is
further increased by connecting all three pairs of
coils in parallel.
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6. Routine Maintenance
The alternator and rectifier require no
maintenance apart from ensuring that all
connections are clean and tight.
If the rotor, stator, engine crankshaft or rear
half of the chaincase have been disturbed, the air
gap between the rotor and stator should be
checked. If a feeler gauge of at least .008 in. thick
cannot be passed between the rotor and each of
the stator poles the alignment should be checked.
If removal of the rotor becomes necessary for
any purpose, there is no necessity to fit keepers to
the rotor poles. When the rotor is removed wipe
off any metal swarf which may have been attracted
to the pole tips. Place the rotor in a clean place.
The nuts which clamp together the rectifier
plate assembly must not under any circumstances
be slackened. They have been carefully set during
manufacture to give correct rectifier performance.
A separate nut is used to secure the rectifier to the
frame of the motor cycle.
7. Ignition Coil Model Q6 or MA6
The ignition coil should be kept clean and the
terminals kept tight.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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the fixing bolt has been replaced and the engine
run for a few minutes, the oil will be forced out
over the automatic advance mechanism by
centrifugal force.
To expose the automatic timing mechanism
remove the two screws in the slotted holes of the
C/B base plate.
Later Models. Remove the contact breaker
cover and use clean engine oil to lubricate the
automatic timing mechanism in the base of the
unit. To obtain access, remove the contact
breaker arm, contact plate, condenser and the
screw in the end of the cam. The unit may then
be lifted out.
Cleaning every 6,000 miles. Examine the
contact breaker; the contacts must be free from
grease or oil. If they are burnt or blackened, clean
with fine carborundum stone or very fine emery
cloth, afterwards wiping away any trace of dirt or
metal dust with a clean petrol moistened cloth.
Cleaning of the contacts is made easier if the lever
carrying the moving contact is removed.
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8. Contact Breaker Unit
Early Models: Type CA1A
Later Models: Type 15D1
Lubrication every 3,000 miles. No grease or
oil must be allowed to get on or near the contacts
when carrying out the following procedure.
Smear the surface of the cam very lightly with
Mobilgrease No. 2 non-creep oil or clean engine
oil.
Place a spot of Ragosine oil or clean engine
oil on the contact breaker pivot of type CA1A.
Contact Breaker Setting. The contact
breaker setting should be checked after the first
500 mile, running and subsequently every 6,000
miles. To check the gap, turn the engine over
slowly until the contacts are seen to be fully open
and insert a 0014-0016 in. feeler gauge between
the contacts.
If the gap width is correct the gauge will be a
sliding fit. To adjust the setting, set the engine in
the position giving maximum contact opening.
Slacken the two screws securing the fixed contact
plate fitted to early models, and the single screw in
the case of later models. Adjust tile position of the
plate until the gap is the thickness of the gauge,
and tighten.
Automatic Timing Control
Early Models. Every 3,000 miles remove the
central fixing bolt and inject a small amount of
clean engine oil into the hole thus exposed. When
9. Renewing High Tension Cables
If any of the high-tension cables show signs
of perishing or cracking they must be replaced,
using 7mm. neoprene-covered rubber ignition
cable. To connect the cable to the distributor or
ignition coil model Q6, remove the metal washer
Section G2k Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
and moulded terminal nut from the defective
cable. Thread the new cable through the moulded
terminal nut and cut back the insulation for about
1/4 in. Pass the exposed strands through the
metal washer and bend them back radially. Screw
the terminal into the pick-up moulding
To connect the cable to ignition coil model
MA6, pass the cable through the rubber grommet,
push the metal clip into the end of the cable
(which should be cut off square), insert the cable
and clip into the socket in the end of the coil, and
slide the grommet into place to exclude water.
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Section G2k Page 4
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
Battery Model PUZ7E
Heat is produced by the mixture of acid and
water, the electrolyte should be allowed to cool
before pouring it into the battery.
The specific gravity of the electrolyte varies
with the temperature. For convenience in
comparing specific gravities, they are always
corrected to 60&deg; F., which is adopted as a
reference temperature.
The method of correction is as follows :
For every 5&deg;F. below 60&deg;F., deduct .002 from
the observed reading to obtain the true specific
gravity at 60&deg;F. For every 5&deg;F. above 60&deg;F. add
.002 to the observed reading to obtain the true
specific gravity at 60&deg;F.
The temperature must be that indicated by a
thermometer having its bulb actually immersed in
the electrolyte and not the ambient temperature.
Fill the cells to the tops of the separators, in one
operation. The battery filled in this way is 90%
charged. When time permits, a short freshening
charge for no more than four hours at the normal
recharge rate of 1.5 amp. should be made.
3. Routine Maintenance
Fortnightly (or more frequently in hot
climates) examine the level of electrolyte in the
cells and if necessary add distilled water to bring
the level up to the tops of the separators. The use
of a Lucas Battery Filler will be found helpful, as
it ensures that the correct electrolyte level is
automatically maintained and also prevents
distilled water from being spilled on the top of the
battery (see Fig. 2).
Occasionally examine the terminals, clean and
coat them with petroleum jelly. Wipe away all
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2. Preparation for Service
The electrolyte is prepared by mixing together
distilled water and concentrated sulphuric acid,
using lead-lined tanks or suitable glass or
earthenware vessels. Slowly add the acid to the
water, stirring with a glass rod. Never add water to
the acid, as this causes dangerous spurting of the
concentrated acid. The specific gravity of the
filling electrolyte depends on the climate in which
the battery is to be used.
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1. General
The model PUZ7E (see Fig. 1) is a
&quot;drycharged&quot; battery and is supplied without
electrolyte but with its plates in a charged
condition. When the battery is required for service
it is only necessary to fill each cell with sulphuric
acid of the correct specific gravity. No initial
charging is required, but the battery must be left to
stand at least one hour after filling before putting
the machine into service and then adjusting the
acid level if necessary.
Section G4a Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
The following table shows the state of charge
at different values of specific gravities
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dirt and moisture from the top of the battery and
ensure that the connections are clean and tight.
4. Servicing
If the battery is subjected to long periods of
night parking with the lights on, without suitable
opportunities for recharging, a low state of charge
is to be expected.
Measure the specific gravity of the acid of each
cell in turn with a hydrometer (see Fig. 3).
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If the battery is discharged, it must be
recharged, either on the motor cycle by a period
of daytime running or from an external D.C.
supply at the normal recharge rate of 1.5 amp.
Section G4a Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION G5d
Head and Tail Lamps
3. Replacing the Light Unit and Bulb
Slacken the securing screw at the top of the
headlamp rim. Remove the front rim and Light
Unit assembly.
Withdraw the adaptor from the Light Unit by
twisting it in an anti-clockwise direction and
pulling it off. Remove the bulb from its locating
sleeve at the rear of the reflector.
Disengage the Light Unit securing springs
from the rim and lift out the Light Unit.
Position the new unit in the rim so that the
word &quot;TOP&quot; on the lens is correctly located when
the assembly is mounted on the headlamp. Refit
the securing springs ensuring that they are equally
spaced around the rim.
Replace the bulb and adaptor. The bulb must
be the Lucas &quot;prefocus&quot; type-6 v. 30/24 watt
Lucas No. 312.
Locate the bottom of the Light Unit and front
rim assembly in the headlamp shell or in the fixing
rim attached to the Casquette fork head. Press the
front on and tighten the securing screw at the top
of the headlamp.
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1. Headlamp
In all models the headlamp incorporates the
Lucas Light Unit MCF 700 built into the
Casquette fork head which also contains twin
parking lamps as well as the ammeter and
headlight switch.
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2. Lucas Light Unit
The unit incorporates a combined reflector
and front lens assembly (see Fig. 1). This
construction ensures that the reflector and lenses
are permanently protected, thus the unit keeps its
high efficiency over a long period. A
&quot;prefocus&quot;bulb is used, the filaments of which
are accurately positioned with respect to the
reflector, thus no focusing device is necessary.
The bulb has a large cap and a flange, which
has been accurately positioned with relation to
the bulb filaments during manufacture. A slot in
the flange engages with a projection on the inside
of the bulb holder positioned at the back of the
reflector.
A bayonet-fitting adaptor with spring-loaded
contacts secures the bulb firmly in position and
carries the supply to the bulb contacts.
The outer surface of the lens is smooth to
facilitate cleaning. The inner surface is formed
of a series of lenses which determine the spread
and pattern of the light beams.
In the event of damage to either the lens or
the reflector a replacement light unit must be
fitted.
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4. Parking Lights
Access to the parking bulbs is obtained by
removing the parking lamp rim (see Fig. 2). This is
forced over the edge of the rubber lamp body and
is additionally secured by means of a small fixing
Section G5d Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
screw. After removal of the lamp rim the parking
lamp lens can be pulled out of the rubber body,
after which the bulb will be accessible.
from excessive heat affecting the plastic cover. At
the same time, the 6 watt filament, if used as a
stop-tail light, will be ineffective in bright sunlight
or at night when the tail light filament is
illuminated.
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5. Tail Light
The Lucas lamp, Type 564 (Fig. 3) is a
combined stop and tail light and also incorporates
a reflector.
Access to the bulb is obtained by removing the
two screws which secure the plastic cover.
The correct bulb is Lucas No. 352, 6 volt, 3/18
watt for machines up to 250 c.c., or Lucas No.
384, 6 volt, 6/18 watt for larger capacity machines.
The 3 or 6 watt filament provides the normal tail
light, while the 18 watt filament is illuminated on
movement of the brake pedal.
Care must be taken that the leads to the stop
tail lamp are correctly connected, as the use of the
18 watt filament on the normal tail light will not
only discharge the battery but could cause trouble
Section G5d Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section H5 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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compress these by hand. Heavier springs having a
rate of 130 lb. per inch are available which may
require the use of a spring compressor, as shown
in Fig. 2.
5. Removal of Swinging Arm Chain Stays
First remove one of the pivot pin nuts and pull
the pivot pin out from the other end. To release
the pivot bearing it is necessary to spread the rear
portion of the frame, using the frame expander
E.5431, which will spread the frame sufficiently to
enable the spigots on the thrust washers to clear
the recesses in the pivot lugs forming part of the
frame.
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Section H5 Page 2
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4. Servicing Rear Suspension Units
The proprietary units fitted are sealed and
servicing of the internal mechanism can be
carried out only by the manufacturers.
The rubber bushes in the top and bottom
eyes can easily be renewed and the spring can be
removed by pushing down on the top spring
cover so as to release the split collar above it.
After removal of the split collar the top cover
and spring can be lifted off. When reassembling,
the spring should be greased to prevent rust and
squeaking if it should come into contact with
either of the covers.
The standard solo springs have a rate of 100
105 lb. per inch and it is not difficult to
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1. Description of Frame
The frame is built throughout of cold drawn
weldless steel tubing with brazed or welded
joints, liners being fitted where necessary for
extra strength. All the main frame members are
made of chromemolybdenum alloy steel tubing
which retains its strength and resistance to
fatigue after brazing or welding.
The swinging arm unit which forms the
chain stays is fitted with large diameter
phosphor bronze bushes and pivots on a stout
steel tube which is secured to the main frame by
a long bolt passing through the pivot lugs.
Hardened steel thrust washers are provided to
deal with side thrust. The torsional rigidity of
the swinging arm unit helps to maintain the rear
wheel upright in the frame and thus relieves the
wheel spindle of bending stresses to which it is
subject with other types of rear suspension.
2. Steering Head Races
The steering head races, 34085, are the same
at the top and bottom of the head lug and are
the same for all models. They are easily
removed by knocking them out with a hammer
and drift and new races can be fitted either
under a press or by means of a hammer and a
wooden drift.
3. Removal of Rear Suspension unit
'
On the &quot;Constellation&quot; and &quot;Super Meteor&quot;
from 1961 onwards, the valances on either side
of the frame must be removed to gain access to
thetop pivot pin. See Section C, paragraph 8.)
The procedure for all models is then as
follows. Remove the top pivot pin nut, drive
out the pivot pin, then hinge the suspension
unit back on the lower pivot pin. After
removing the lower nut, the unit may be pushed
off the pivot pin welded to the fork end.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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DUAL SEAT – MUDGUARD ASSEMBLY 1961 ONWARDS
Fig. 3
Section H5 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
If it is necessary to remove the bronze bushes
these can be driven out by means of a hammer and
a suitable drift and new bushes can be fitted under
a press without difficulty. After fitting the bushes
they must be reamed to .844/.843 in.
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6. Centre Stand
To remove the centre stand unscrew the nut
from one end of the stand spindle, knock out the
latter and withdraw the stand complete with its
bearing sleeve after disconnecting one end of the
stand spring.
9. Dismantling the Rear Mudguard-dual Seat
Assembly, 1961 onwards
Having removed the assembly front the frame
as described in Section C, paragraph 8,
dismantling for repair or replacement is a simple
matter.
First remove the single, 3/16 in. bolt securing
the number plate, and disconnect the rear light
wire at the junctions. The lifting handles are next
pulled out, after undoing the two 5/16 in. nuts on
each handle. The grommets may be left in position
in the mudguard.
Take out the two 3/16 in. bolts in the nose of
the muduard. These screw into tapped holes in the
dual seat. When replacing, the shakeproof washer
must be next to the head of the bolt and the large
plain washer must be against the underside of the
mudguard.
Remove the single 3/16 in. nut and bolt attaching the rear of the mudguard to the carrier. Note
the large plain washer, this must be under the bolt
head, and bear against the top of the mudguard on
assembly. Also the shakeproof washer and metal
plate on the underside.
Lastly, the two 1/4 in. bolts attaching the front
of the carrier to the mudguard, and the two 5/16
in. bolts in the carrier bridge piece, can be undone.
They fit into tapped holes in the dual seat
Note that shakeproof washers are fitted to all
bolts and studs. Plain washers must be placed as
described above and shown in Fig. 3.
On some early 1961 &quot;Constellation&quot; models,
this mudguard is made from glass-fibre and in the
event of damage small repair kits, consisting of a
quantity of resin, catalyst and glass fibre, are
available from our Service Department.
Instructions for carrying out minor repairs are
issued with this kit. All other models have the
mudguard of pressed steel.
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Section H5 Page 4
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8. Lubrication
The steering head races, swinging arm pivot
bearing and stand pivot bearing should be well
greased on assembly. The swinging arm pivot and
stand pivot are provided with grease nipples but
no nipples are provided for the steering head
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7. Wheel Alignment
Note that it is not possible to guarantee that
the wheels are correctly aligned when the same
notch position is used on both adjuster cams. It is
therefore not sufficient to count the notches and
use the same position on both sides of the
machine. The only way to guarantee that the
wheels are in line is to check the alignment from
front wheel to back using either a straight edge or
a piece of taut string. The alignment should be
checked on both sides of the machine and if the
front and rear tyres are of different section
allowance must be made for this.
It is usual to check the alignment of the wheels
at a point about six inches above the ground but, if
the alignment is checked also towards the top of
the wheels, it will be possible to ascertain whether
or not the frame is twisted so as to cause one
wheel to be leaning while the other is vertical. To
do this it is always necessary to remove the
mudguards and, unless a straight edge cut away in
its centre portion is available, it will be necessary
also to remove the cylinder, toolboxes, battery,
etc., in order to allow an unbroken straight edge or
a piece of taut string to contact the front and rear
tyres.
as experience has shown that the provision of
nipples at this point causes trouble through chafing
and cutting of control and lighting cables. If the
steering head bearings are well packed they will last
for several years or many thousands of miles.
Recommended greases are Castrolease (Heavy),
Mobilgrease (No. 4), Esso Grease Energrease C. I
or Shell Retinax A.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION J1
Front Fork
With Casquette and Aluminium Alloy Bottom Tubes
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2. Operation of the Fork
The fork provides a range of movement of 6
in. from the fully extended to the fully
compressed position. The movement is
controlled by the compression spring and by the
hydraulic damping system. The hydraulic
damping is light on the bump stroke and heavier
on the rebound stroke, thus damping out any
tendency to pitching or oscillation without
interfering unduly with the free movement of
the fork when the wheel encounters an obstacle.
The fork is filled with S.A.E. 20 to a point
above the lower end of the fork spring so that
the damper chamber &quot;B&quot; is always kept
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1. Description
The telescopic fork consists of two legs each
of which comprises a main tube of chrome
molybdenum alloy steel tubing which is
screwed into the Casquette fork head at the
upper end and securely clamped to the fork
crown. Fitted over the lower end of the main
tube is the bottom tube made of high strength
aluminium alloy with an integral lug which
carries the wheel spindle. Fitted on the lower
end of the main tube is a steel bush which is a
close fit in the bore of the bottom tube. The
upper end of the bottom tube carries a bronze
bush which is a close fit over the outside
diameter of the main tube. The bush is secured
to the bottom tube by means of a threaded
housing which contains an oil seal. A stud
known as the &quot;spring stud&quot; is fitted in the lower
end of the bottom tube and a valve port is
secured to the lower end of the main tube. As
the fork operates oil is forced between the
spring stud and the bore of the valve port
forming a hydraulic damping system. A
compression spring is fitted inside the main tube
between the upper end of the spring stud and the
upper end of the main tube. The lower end of
the main tube and upper end of the bottom tube
are protected by a cover secured to the fork
crown.
A special fork is available for sidecar
machines. This has bottom tubes with extended
wheel lugs giving less trail and is fitted with
stronger springs and a steering damper.
Section J1 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
3. Dismantling the Fork to Replace Spring,
Oil Seal or Bearing Bushes
Place the machine on the centre stand,
disconnect the front brake control and remove the
front wheel and mudguard complete with stays.
Unscrew the bottom spring stud nut (38080)
which will allow oil to run out of the fork down
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full of oil. Upward movement of the wheel
spindle forces oil from the lower chamber &quot;A&quot;
through the annular space between the spring
stud (38067) and the bore of the main tube valve
port (38138) into the damper chamber &quot;B.&quot;
During this stroke the pressure on the underside
of the valve plate (38073) causes this to lift so
that oil can also pass from &quot;A&quot; to &quot;B&quot; through
the eight holes in the valve body. Since,
however, the diameter of chamber &quot;B&quot; is less
than that of chamber &quot;A&quot; there is not room in
&quot;B&quot; to receive all the oil which must be displaced
from &quot;A&quot; as the fork operates. The surplus oil
passes through the cross hole in the spring stud
and up the centre hole in the stud, spilling out
through the nut (38076) which secures the upper
end of the spring stud to the bronze guide at the
lower end of the fork spring.
On the rebound stroke the oil in the damper
chamber &quot;B&quot; is forced through the annular space
between the spring stud and the bore of the main
tube valve port. During this stroke pressure in
chamber &quot;B&quot; closes the two disc valves at the
upper and lower ends of the chamber so that the
only path through which the oil can escape is the
annular space between the spring stud and the
port. Damping on the rebound stroke is therefore
heavier than on the bump stroke. At the extreme
end of either bump or rebound stroke a small
taper portion on the spring stud enters the bore
of the valve port, thus restricting the annular
space and increasing the amount of damping. At
the extreme end of the bump stroke the larger
diameter taper on the oil control collar (38075)
enters the main counterbore of the valve port
thus forming a hydraulic cushion to prevent
metal to metal contact.
Section J1 Page 2
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to the level of the cross-hole in the spring stud.
Now knock the spring stud upward into the fork
with a soft mallet, thus allowing the remainder
of the oil to escape. Pull the fork bottom tube
down as far as possible, thus exposing the oil
seal housing (38157). Unscrew this housing
either by means of a spanner on the flats with
which it is provided or by using the gland nut
handgrips (E.5417). The bottom tube can now
be withdrawn completely from the main tube,
leaving the bottom tube bush, oil seal housing
and oil seal in position on the main tube.
Now unscrew the main tube valve port using
&quot;C&quot; spanner (E5418). The spring stud and
spring can now be withdrawn from the lower
end of the main tube.
The steel main tube bush (38156) can now
be tapped off the lower end of the tube, if
necessary using the bottom tube bush for this
purpose. Before doing this, however, it is
advisable to mark the position of the bush with
a pencil line so as to ensure reassembling it in
the same position on the main tube. The reason
for this is that these steel bushes are finish
ground to size after fitting on to the tubes so as
to ensure concentricity to the main tube. After
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
removal of the main tube bush the bottom tube
bush, oil seal housing and oil seal can be
removed.In case of difficulty in removing the main
tube bush it is possible to withdraw the oil seal
housingafter loosening the crown clip bolt 39038,
removing the plug screw 38968 and unscrewing
the main tube from the fork-head by means of a
hexagon bar .500 in. across flats (Unbrako wrench
W. 11) or the special tool shown in Fig. 2.
up sharply against the spring until two or three
threads on the stud project beneath the end of
the bottom tube. Now fit the nut and washer and
pull the stud into position by tightening the nut.
If necessary fit the nut first without the washer
until sufficient thread is projecting to enable the
washer to be fitted.
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4. Spring
Solo and Sidecar springs are available. The free
length of each is 20.1/2 ins. The spring should be
replaced if it has closed by more than 1 inch.
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5. Reassembly of Parts
When refitting the oil seal, or fitting a new one,
great care must be exercised not to damage the
synthetic rubber lip which forms the actual seal. If
the seal has been removed from the upper end of
the main tube and is refitted from this end a
special nose piece (Fig. 3) must be fitted over the
end of the tube to prevent the thread from
damaging the oil seal.
The spring stud is a tight fit in the hole at the
lower end of the bottom tube. Once the stud has
been entered in the hole push the bottom tube
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6. Steering Head Races
The steering head bearing consists of two
deep groove thrust races each containing
nineteen 1/4 in. diameter balls. The bearing is
adjusted by tightening the steering stem locknut
after loosening the ball head clip screw and both
the fork crown clamp bolts. The head should be
adjusted so that, when the front wheel is lifted
clear of the ground, a light tap on the handlebars
will cause the steering to swing to full lock in
either direction, while at the same time there
should be only the slightest trace of play in the
bearings. When testing for freedom of
movement the steering damper, if fitted, should
be disconnected by unscrewing the anchor plate
pin. Do not forget to tighten the ball head clip
screw and fork crown clamp bolts. Before
tightening the latter make sure that the cover
tubes are located centrally round the main tubes
so that the bottom tube does not rub inside the
cover tube. A pair of split bushes (Fig. 5) is
useful to ensure centralisation of the cover tubes.
SHOWING THE POSITIONS OF THE CLAMP BOLTS
SECURING THE STEERING STEM AND FORK TUBES
Fig. 4
7. Removal of Complete Fork
The fork complete with front wheel and
mudguard can be removed from the machine if
necessary by adopting the following procedure.
Section J1 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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The leads to the lighting switch and ammeter
should be disconnected from the battery,
regulator, tail lamp, etc. at their lower ends or by
means of the plug and socket connectors when
these are provided. The switch and ammeter are
push fits into the rubber bushes (LU/365408) in
the fork head.
Disconnect the speedometer drive from the
speedometer head and unscrew the steering
damper knob and rod (if fitted) after removal of
the split pin through the lower end of the rod.
Undo the steering damper anchor plate pin so as
to disconnect the damper from the frame of the
machine.
Remove the two plug screws (38968) and
loosen the steering head clip bolt and the two
fork crown clamp bolts.
Now unscrew the fork main tubes from the
fork head and the steering stem locknut from the
top of the steering stem, turning each tube and the
nut a turn or two at a time. When the nut has been
removed from the steering stem and the main
tubes have been completely unscrewed from the
fork head the complete fork and wheel with
steering stem can be lifted out of the head lug of
the frame.
9. Air Vents
The earlier forks of this type were provided
with holes at the upper end of each main tube
communicating with small vent holes in the
Casquette head. Experience has shown that on
rough roads oil may escape through these air vents
which in consequence are now omitted. Escape of
oil from the earlier forks can be largely eliminated
by fitting specially long plug screws, which are
available. The Part Number is 40118. If these are
fitted and the final vent hole is stopped up with a
wooden plug leakage at this point is impossible.
Fitting the special plug screws alone is sufficient in
most instances.
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8. Lubrication
The lubrication of the fork bearings is effected
by the oil which forms the hydraulic damping
medium. All that is necessary is to keep sufficient
oil in the fork to ensure that the top end of the
bottom spring stud is never uncovered even in the
full rebound position. The level of oil in the fork
can be gauged by removing the top plug screw
and inserting a long rod about 3/8 in. diameter. If
slightly tilted this will ledge against the nut at the
upper end of the bottom spring stud and indicate
the level of oil above the stud. If the fork is empty
to start with the quantity required is
approximately 7.1/2 fluid ounces in each leg.
Recommended grades of oil are Castrolite,
Mobiloil Arctic, Essolube 20, B.P. Energol S.A.E.
20 and Shell X-100 20/20W.
Section J1 Page 4
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION K6
Front Wheel
With Dual 6in. Brake
and unscrew the cover plate nuts 31347. The
right and left hand cover plate assemblies can
then be withdrawn from the respective brake
drums.
3. Removal of Brake Shoes and Springs
This is best done by unscrewing the pivot pin
locknuts, 28715, and the operating lever nuts,
10314, after which the assembly of brake shoes,
return springs, pivot pin and operating cam can
be removed from the cover plate by light blows
with a hammer and drift on the ends of the pivot
pin and the operating cam, see Fig. 2. The return
springs, 29236, can then be unhooked from the
spring posts in the brake shoes thus allowing the
whole assembly to fall apart.
4. Replacing Brake Linings
Brake linings are supplied either in pairs
ready drilled complete with rivets or ready
fitted to service replacement brake shoes.
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1. Removal from Fork
To remove the front wheel from the fork
place the machine on the centre stand and front
stand, if fitted, or alternatively with sufficient
packing (about 2 in.) beneath each side of the
stand to lift the wheel clear of the ground when
tilted back on to the rear wheel. Slacken brake
cable adjustments and disconnect cables from
handlebar lever and from operating cam levers
on hub. Unscrew the four nuts securing the fork
bottom tube lug caps (Part No. 38593) and allow
the wheel to drop forwards out of the front fork.
Make sure that the machine stands securely on
the rear wheel and centre stand-if necessary
place a weight on the saddle or a strut beneath
the fork to ensure this.
2. Removal of Brake Cover Plate Assemblies
Lock the brake &quot;on&quot; by pressure on the
operating lever, 38905 (R.H.) or 38906 (L.H.),
Section K6 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
When riveting linings to shoes secure the two
centre rivets first so as to ensure that the lining
lies flat against the shoe. Standard linings are
Ferodo MR41, which are drilled to receive
cheese headed rivets.
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the inner edge of the outer race of the bearing
and the back of the recess in either end of the
hub barrel. To prevent any possibility of
sideways movement of the hub barrel on the
bearings it is, therefore, necessary for the
bearings to be a tight fit in the barrel but this fit
must not be so tight as to close down the outer
race of the bearing and thus overload the balls.
The following are the manufacturing tolerances
which control the fit of the bearings. The figures
for the bearings themselves are for SKF bearing;
but other manufacturers' tolerances are similar.
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Bearing o/d
Housing bore
Bearing bore
Shaft diameter
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REMOVAL OF BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 2
8. Refitting Ball Bearings
To refit the bearings in the hub two hollow
drifts are required, as shown in Fig. 3. One
bearing is first fitted to one end of the spindle by
means of the hollow drift; the spindle and
bearing are then entered into one end of the hub
barrel which is then supported on one of the
hollow drifts. The other bearing is then threaded
over the upper end of the spindle and driven
home by means of the second hollow drift either
under a press or by means of a hammer which
will thus drive both bearings into position
simultaneously. In order to make quite sure that
there is clearance between the inner faces of the
outer bearing races and the bottom of the
recesses, fit the distance washer 30538, and the
cover plate nuts, 31347, with either the cover
plates themselves or additional packing washers
behind the nuts. Tightening the nut should not
have any effect on the ease with which the
spindle can be turned. If tightening the nuts
makes the spindle hard to turn this may be taken
as proof that the bearings are bottoming in the
recesses in the hub barrel before they are solid
against the shoulders on the spindle. In this cage
the bearing should be removed and a thin
packing shim fitted between the inner race and
the shoulder on the spindle.
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Section K6 Page 2
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5. Removal of Hub Spindle and Bearings
To remove the hub spindle and bearings
having already removed the brake cover plate
assemblies, lift out the felt washers, Part No.
21466, and distance washers, Part No. 30538.
Now hit one end of the wheel spindle with a
copper hammer or mallet, thus driving it out of
the hub bringing one bearing with it and leaving
the other in position in the hub. Drive the
bearing off the spindle and insert the latter once
more in the hub at the end from which it was
removed. Now drive the spindle through the hub
the other way, when it will bring out the
remaining bearing.
6. Hub Bearings
These are deep groove single row journal ball
bearings 5/8in. i/d by 1.9/16in. o/d by 7/16in.
wide. The Skefko Part No. is RLS5. Equivalent
bearings of other makes are Hoffmann LS7,
Ransome and Marles LJ5/8in., Fischer LS7.
7. Fitting Limits for Bearings
The fit of the bearings in the hub barrel is
important. The bearings are locked on the
spindle between shoulders and the distance
pieces, 30538, which in turn are held up by the
cover plate nuts 31347. In order to prevent
endways pre-loading of the bearings it is
essential that there is a small clearance between
1.5622/1.5617 in.
1.5620/1.5616 in.
0.6252/0.6247 in.
0.6252/0.6248 in.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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9. Reassembly of Brake Shoes to Cover Plates
Assemble each pair of shoes with their return
springs on to the pivot pin and operating cam,
putting a smear of grease in the grooves of the
pivot pin and on the operating faces of the cam.
Now fit the assembly into the cover plate,
putting a smear of grease on to the cylindrical
bearing surface of the operating cam and secure
with the pivot pin locknut, 28715, and washer,
17551. Fit the operating lever, 38905 or 38906,
on its splines in a position to suit the extent of
wear on the linings and secure with the nut,
10314, and washer, 14613. Note that the
position of the operating levers may have to be
corrected when adjusting the brake after refitting
the wheel. The range of adjustment can be
extended by moving these levers on to different
splines. Limit of wear is reached when the cam
is turned through nearly 90&deg; with the brake hard
on so that there is a danger that the operating
springs cannot return the brake to the off
position.
brakes are
to take any
two linings
brake shoe
11. Refitting Brake Cover Plates
After assembling the brake shoe pivot pins
and operating cams into the cover plates repack
the hub bearings with grease. The recommended
greases are Castrolease (Heavy), Mobilgrease
(No. 4), Esso Grease, Energrease C3 or Shell
Retinax A. These are all medium heavy lime
soap or aluminium soap greases. The use of
H.M.P. greases which have a soda soap base is
not recommended as these tend to be slightly
corrosive if any damp finds its way into the
hubs.
Before fitting the distance washers and felt
washers make sure that the inside of the brake
drums are quite clean and free from oil or
grease, damp, etc., and replace the brake cover
plate assemblies. Securely tighten the cover
plate nuts, 31347.
12. Wheel Rim
The rim is Type WM2-19 in. plunged and
pierced with forty holes for spoke nipples. The
spoke holes are symmetrical, i.e., the rim can be
assembled to the hub either way round. Rim
diameter after building is 19.062 in., tolerances
on the circumference of the rim shoulders where
the tyre fits being 59.930/59.870 in. The
standard steel measuring tape for checking rims
is 5/16in. wide, .011 in. thick and its length is
59.964/ 59.904 in.
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10. Floating Cam Housings
Note that the cam housings, Part No. 26836,
are intended to be left free to float. The bolt
holes in the cam housings are slotted and the
securing pins, Part No. 252, are provided with
double coil spring washers beneath their heads
to enable them to be tightened sufficiently to
prevent the cam housings moving under the
influence of road shocks, while at the same time
they can be, and should be, left free enough to
be capable of being moved by hand in the
direction of the slots. The pins, 252, are secured
by locknuts, 7916, which are centre punched as
an additional precaution.
The leading shoes (i.e., those towards the rear
of the machine) have a servo action which
renders them more effective than the trailing
shoes. This servo action causes the linings on the
leading shoes to wear more quickly than those on
the trailing shoes and at the same time tends to
lift the leading shoes off the cams and press the
trailing shoes harder on to the cams. With a fixed
cam housing the result is that the majority of the
cam pressure is applied to the less efficient
trailing shoe. By leaving the housing free to float
the cam can follow up the leading shoe thus
maintaining equal pressure between the cam and
the two shoes and so making full use of the more
efficient leading shoe. Owing to the servo action
the wear on the leading shoe with a floating cam
housing is greater than that of the trailing shoe
and in time the limit of float of the cam housing
will be reached, after which the brake will
continue to function as a fixed cam brake with
some loss of efficiency. This can be restored by
removing the shoes and fitting them in the
opposite positions. Floating cam
self-centering and there is no need
special precautions to see that the
are of equal thickness or that the
assembly is centred in the drum.
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13. Spokes
The spokes are of the single butted type 8-10
gauge with 90&deg; countersunk heads, angle of
bend 95&deg;-100&deg;, length 65/8 in., thread diameter
.144 in., 40 threads per inch, thread form British
Standard Cycle.
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14. Wheel Building and Truing
The spokes are laced one over two and the
wheel rim must be built central in relation to the
nuts which secure the brake cover plates. The
rim should be trued as accurately as possible, the
maximum permissible run-out both sideways
and radially being plus or minus 1/32in.
15. Tyre
The standard tyre is Dunlop 3.25-19in.
Ribbed tread.
When removing the tyre always start close to
the valve and see that the edge of the cover at
the other side of the wheel is pushed down into
the well in the rim.
Section K6 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
17. Lubrication
No grease nipple is provided on later hubs.
due to the tendency to over-grease, resulting in
grease finding its way past the felt seal; on to the
brake linings.
The correct method of lubrication is to pack
the bearings with grease after dismantling the
hub, as described above.
Note that the brake cams are drilled for
grease passages but the ends of these are
stopped up with countersunk screws instead of
being fitted with grease nipples. This is done to
prevent excessive greasing by over-enthusiastic
owners. If the cams are smeared with grease on
assembly they should require no further
attention but in case of necessity it is possible to
remove the screws, fit grease nipples in their
place and grease the cams by this means.
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When replacing the tyre fit the part by the
valve last, also with the edge of the cover at the
other side of the wheel pushed down into the
well.
If the correct method of fitting and removal of
the tyre is adopted it will be found that the
covers can be manipulated quite easily with the
small levers supplied in the toolkit. The use of
long levers and/or excessive force is liable to
damage the walls of the tyre. After inflation
make sure that the tyre is fitting evenly all the
way round the rim. A line moulded on the wall
of the tyre indicates whether or not the tyre is
correctly fitted. If the tyre has a white mark,
indicating a balance point, this should be fitted
near the valve.
16. Tyre Pressure
The recommended pressure for the front tyre
is 18lb. per square inch for wheel loads up to
240lb.
Section K6 Page 4
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION K7
Front Wheel
With Single Brake
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1959-60 &quot;350 Bullet,&quot; 7-inch Brake
1958-60 &quot;350 Clipper&quot; and 1958-60 Trials &quot;Works Replica.&quot; 6-inch Brake
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1. Removal from Fork
To remove the front wheel from the fork place
the machine on the centre stand with sufficient
packing (about 2 in.) beneath each side of the stand
to lift the wheel clear of the ground when tilted
back on to the rear wheel. Slacken the brake cable
adjustment and disconnect the cable from the
handlebar lever and from the operating cam lever
on the hub. Unscrew the four nuts securing the fork
leg caps and allow the wheel to drop forward out of
the front fork. Make sure that the machine stands
securely on the rear wheel and centre stand, if
necessary place a weight on the saddle or a strut
beneath the fork to ensure this.
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hammer or mallet, thus driving it out of the hub,
bringing one bearing with it and leaving the other
in position in the hub. Drive the bearing off the
spindle and insert the latter once more in the hub
at the end from which it was removed. Now drive
the spindle through the hub the other way, when
it will bring out the remaining bearing.
1959/1960 &quot;350 Bullet&quot; machines with 7 in.
brakes have no loose, pressed cover on the
nonbrake side (see Fig. 1). Where this is fitted, the
three screws holding it, and the cover plate, must
be removed before attempting bearing removal.
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5. Removal of Hub Spindle and Bearings
To remove the hub spindle and bearings having
first removed the brake cover plate, unscrew the
retaining nut and remove the dust excluder from
the non-brake side of the hub. Now remove the felt
washers and the distance washer from the brake
side and hit one end of the spindle with a copper
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4. Removal of Brake Operating Cam
To remove the operating cam unscrew the nut,
10314, which secures the operating lever to the
splines on the cam. A sharp tap on the end of the
cam spindle will now free the lever, after which the
cam can be withdrawn from its housing. Do not try
and remove the brake shoe pivot pin; it is cast into
the brake cover plate and cannot be removed.
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3. Removal of Brake Shoes for Replacement,
etc.
The brake shoes can be removed after detaching
the return springs. The brake linings are bonded to
the shoes and if requiring to be renewed should be
sent for servicing.
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2. Removal of Brake Cover Plate Assembly
Lock the brake &quot;on&quot; by pressure on the
operating lever and unscrew the cover plate nut. The
cover plate assembly can then be withdrawn from the
brake drum.
Section K7 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
6. Hub Bearings
These are deep-groove single-row journal ball
bearings 5/8 in. i/d by 1.9/16 in. o/d by 7/16 in.
wide. The Skefko Part No. is RLS5. Equivalent
bearings of other makes are Hoffmann LS7,
Ransome and Marles LJ 5/8 in., Fischer LS7.
9. Reassembly of Brake Shoes and Operating
Cam into the Cover Plate
No difficulty should be experienced in
carrying out these operations. Put a smear of
grease on the pivot pin and on the operating face
of the cam: also on to the cylindrical bearing
surface of the operating cam. Fit the operating
lever, 38905 on its splines in a position to suit the
extent of wear on the linings and secure with the
nut and washer. Note that the position of the
operating lever may have to be corrected when
adjusting the brake after refitting the wheel. The
range adjustment can be extended by moving this
lever on to a different spline. Limit of wear is
reached when the cam is turned through nearly
90&deg; with the brake hard on, so that there is a
danger that the operating springs, cannot return
the brake to the off position.
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7. Fitting Limits for Bearings
The fit of the bearings in the hub barrel is
important. The bearings are locked on the spindle
between shoulders and the distance pieces, 30538,
which in turn are held up by the nuts on the
spindle. In order to prevent endways pre-loading
of the bearings it is essential that there is a small
clearance between the inner edge of the outer race
of the bearing and the back of the recess in either
end of the barrel. To prevent any possibility of
sideways movement of the hub barrel on the
bearings it is therefore. necessary for the bearings
to be a tight fit in the barrel, but this fit must not
be so tight as to close down the outer race of the
bearing and thus overload the balls. The following
are the manufacturing tolerances which control
the fit of the bearings. The figures for the
bearings themselves are for SKF. bearings, but
other manufacturers tolerances are similar.
Bearing o/d, 1.5622/1.5617 in.
Housing bore, 1.5620/1.5616 in.
Bearing bore, .6252/.6247 in.
Shaft diameter, .6252/.6248 in.
between the inner faces of the outer bearing race,
and the bottom of the recesses, fit the distance
washers, cover plate, dust excluder and the nut,
on the spindle. Tightening the nuts should not
have any effect on the ease with which the
spindle can be turned. If tightening the nuts
makes the spindle hard to turn this may be taken
as proof that the bearings are bottoming in the
recesses in the hub barrel before they are solid
against the shoulders on the spindle. In this case,
the bearing should be removed and a thin
packing shim fitted between the inner race and
the shoulder on the spindle.
10. Final Assembly of Hub before Replacing
Wheel
Before replacing the felt washers which form
the grease seals, pack all bearings with grease.
Recommended greases are Castrolease (Heavy)
Mobilgrease (No. 4), Esso Grease, Energrease
C3 or Shell Retinax A. These are all medium
heavy, lime soap or aluminium soap greases. The
use of H.M.P. greases which have a soda soap
base is not recommended, as these tend to be
slighty corrosive if any damp finds its way into
the hubs.
Make sure that the inside of the brake drum is
quite free from oil or grease, damp, etc. Replace
the felt washers, distance collars, dust excluder
and brake cover plate and securely tighten the
spindle nuts.
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8. Refitting Ball Bearings
To refit the bearings in the hub, two hollow
drifts are required, as shown in Fig. 2. One
bearing is first fitted to one end of the spindle by
means of the hollow drift; the spindle and bearing
are then entered into one end of the hub barrel,
which is then supported on one of the hollow
drifts. The other bearing is then threaded over the
upper end of the spindle and driven home by
means of the second hollow drift either under a
press, or by means of a hammer, which will thus
drive both bearings into position simultaneously.
In order to make quite sure that there is clearance
11. Wheel Rim
1959 and 1960 350 Bullet and 1960 Clipper:
The wheel rim is WM2-17 in., plunged and
pierced with forty holes for spoke nipples. The
spoke holes are symmetrical, i.e. the rim can be
assembled to the hub either way round. The rim
diameter after building is 17.062 in., the tolerance,
Section K7 Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
14. Tyre
The standard tyre is Dunlop 3.25-17 in.
Ribbed. &quot;350 Bullet&quot; up to 1958. &quot;350 Clipper&quot;
up to 1959, &quot;500 Bullet&quot; up to 1962: use a 3.25-19
in. When removing the tyre always start close to
the valve and see that the edge of the cover at the
other side of the wheel is pushed down into the
well in the rim.
When replacing the tyre fit the part by the
valve last, also with the edge of the cover at the
other side of the wheel pushed down into the
well.
If the correct method of fitting and removal of
the tyre is adopted it will be found that the covers
can be manipulated quite easily with the small
levers supplied in the tool-kit. The use of long
levers and/or excessive force is liable to damage
the walls of the tyre. After inflation, make sure
that the tyre is fitting evenly all the way round the
rim. A line moulded on the wall of the tyre
indicates whether or not the tyre is correctly fitted.
If the tyre has a white mark indicating, a balance
point, this should be fitted near the valve.
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on the circumference of the rim shoulders where
the tyre fits being 53.642/53.582 in. The standard
steel measuring tape for checking rims is 5/16 in.
wide, .011 in. thick, and its length is 53.676/
53.616 in.
Up to 1959 &quot;Clipper,&quot; up to 1962 &quot;500 Bullet,&quot;
up to 1958 &quot;350 Bullet&quot;: The wheel rim is
WM2-19 in. plunged and pierced with forty holes
for spoke nipples. The spokes are symmetrical, i.e.
the rim can be assembled either way round. The
rim diameter after building is 19.062 in., the
tolerances on the circumference of the rim
shoulders where the tyre fits being 59.930/59.870
in. The standard steel measuring tape for checking
rims is 5/16 in. wide, .011 in. thick and its length
is 59.964/59.904 in.
15. Tyre Pressures
The recommended pressures for the front
tyres are 16 lb. per square inch for wheel loads
not exceeding 200 lb., 18 lb. per square inch for
load up to 240 lb., 20 lb. per square inch for loads
up to 280 lb., and 24 lb. per square inch up to 350
lb.
16. Lubrication
Grease the bearings by packing them with
grease after dismantling the hub as described
above.
Note that the brake cam is drilled for a grease
passage but the end of this is stopped up with a
countersunk screw instead of being fitted with a
grease nipple. This is done to present excessive
greasing by over-enthusiastic owners. If the cam is
smeared with grease on assembly it should require
no further attention but in case of necessity, it is
possible to remove the screw, fit a grease nipple in
its place and grease the cam by this means.
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13. Wheel Building and Truing
The spokes are laced one over two, and the
wheel rim must be built central in relation to the
faces of the nuts on the spindle. The rim should
be trued as accurately as possible, the maximum
permissible run-out both sideways and radially
being plus or minus 1/32 in.
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12. Spokes
&quot;350 Clipper,&quot; 1960: The spokes are of the
singlebutted type, 8-10 gauge, with 90&deg;
countersunk heads, thread diameter .144 in., 40
threads per inch, thread form British Standard
Cycle. The inner spokes are 5.5/8 in. long with an
angle of bend 100', and the outer spokes 5.3/4 in.
long with an angle of bend 80&deg;.
The &quot;Trials&quot; model has a 6 in. brake, the front
rim is WM1-21 in., there are forty spokes 7.9/16
in. long 10-8 gauge. On all &quot;350 Bullets&quot; up to
1958, &quot;Clippers&quot; up to 1959 and &quot;500 Bullets&quot; up
to 1962, the inner and outer spokes are 6.5/8 in.
long. &quot;350 Bullets,&quot; 1959 to 1962 have spokes
6.5/16 in. long.
Section K7 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION L12
Rear Wheel (Non-Detachable Type)
1958-59 350 Clipper
the dual seat if fitted, and the detachable portion of
the rear mudguard. Disconnect the rear driving
chain at the spring link and remove the chain from
the rear wheel sprocket, leaving it in position on
the gearbox countershaft sprocket. Unscrew the
rear brake rod adjusting nut completely and depress
the brake pedal so as to disengage the rod from the
trunnion in the brake operating lever. Unscrew the
brake cover plate anchor nut and remove this
together with the washer behind it. Disconnect the
speedometer driving cable, loosen the spindle nuts
and mark the chain adjuster cams to ensure
replacing in the same position. Slide the wheel out
of the fork ends, tilting it so as to disengage the end
of the brake shoe pivot pin from the slot in the
fork end.
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2. Removal and Replacement of Wheel
Place machine on the centre stand, if necessary
putting packing pieces beneath the legs of the
stand to lift the wheel clear of the ground. Remove
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1. Description
These instructions cover the servicing of two
different rear wheels, both of the non-detachable
type incorporating a rubber cush drive and an
internal expanding brake. Both types have a solid
spindle and give a 3 in. chain line.
The heavier type used on the &quot;Meteor 700&quot; and
&quot; 500 Bullet&quot; has a 7 in. diameter brake drum while
the lighter type used on the &quot;500 Twin&quot; and &quot;350
Bullet&quot; has a 6 in. diameter brake.
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When replacing the wheel make sure that the
dogs on the speedometer drive gearbox are
engaged with the slots in the end of the hub
barrel. Make sure also that the speedometer drive
gearbox is correctly positioned so that there is no
sudden bend in the driving cable. Make sure that
the closed end of the spring link points in the
direction of travel of the chain. Replace the chain
adjuster cams in their original positions or, if
necessary, turn each of them the same number of
notches to tension the chain and maintain correct
wheel alignment. Do not forget to refit the brake
rod and adjust the brake so that the wheel turns
freely while the brake is off, while at the same
time only a small travel of the brake pedal is
necessary to put the brake on.
6. Hub Bearings
These are deep groove single row journal ball
bearings. The lighter bearings used in the &quot;350
Bullet&quot; and 500 Twin hubs are 5/8 in. i/d by
1.9/16 in. o/d by 7/16 in. wide. The Skefko Part
No. is RLS5. Equivalent bearings of other makes
are Hoffmann LS7, Ransome and Marles LJ 5/8
in., Fischer LS7.
The heavier bearings used in the &quot;Meteor 700&quot;
and &quot;500 Bullet&quot; Models are 5/8 in. i/d by
1.13/16 in. o/d by 5/8 in. wide. The Skefko Part
No. is RMS5. Equivalent bearings of other makes
are Hoffmann MS7, Ransome and Marles MJ 5/8
in., Fischer MS7.
7. Fitting Limits for Bearings
The fit of the bearings in the hub barrel is
important. The bearings are locked on the spindle
between shoulders and the distance pieces, which
in turn are held up by the cover plate nuts. In
order to prevent endways pre-loading of the
bearings it is essential that there is a small clearance
between the inner edge of the outer race of the
bearing and the back of the recess in either end of
the hub barrel. To prevent any possibility of
sideways movement of the hub barrel on the
bearings it is, therefore, necessary for the bearings
to be a tight fit in the barrel but this fit must not be
so tight as to close down the outer race of the
bearing and thus overload the balls. The following
are the manufacturing tolerances which control the
fit of the bearings. The figures for the bearings
themselves are for SKF bearings but other
manufacturers tolerances are similar.
350 Bullet
Meteor 700
and 500 Twin
and 500Bullet
Bearing o/d 1.5622/1.5617 in. 1.8122/1.8117 in.
Housing bore 1.5620/1.5615 in. 1.8115/1.8110 in.
Bearing bore .6252/.6247 in.
.6252/.6247 in.
Shaft diameter .6252/.6248 in. .6252/.6248 in.
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5. Removal of Hub Spindle and Bearings
To remove the hub spindle and bearings,
having already removed the brake cover plate
assembly and speedometer drive gearbox, lift out
the felt washers and distance pieces then hit one
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4. Replacing Brake Linings
Brake linings are supplied either in pairs ready
drilled complete with rivets, Part No. 37786BX (6
in. shoes) or 37787BX (7 in. shoes), or ready
fitted to service replacement brake shoes, Part
No. 38042 (6 in. shoes) or 38043 (7 in. shoes).
When riveting linings to shoes secure the two
centre rivets first so as to ensure that the lining
lies flat against the shoe. Standard linings are
Ferodo MR41 which are drilled to receive cheese
headed rivets.
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3. Removal of Brake Shoes for Replacement,
Fitting New Linings, etc.
Remove the complete wheel as described
above, then remove the left hand spindle nut,
chain adjuster and distance collar, thus permitting
the complete brake cover plate with operating
cam, pivot pin, shoes and return springs to be
lifted off the hub spindle.
In the case of the 7 in. brake fitted to the
&quot;Meteor 700&quot; and &quot;500 Bullet&quot; Models the brake
shoes can then be removed, after detaching the
return springs.
In the case of the 6 in. brake fitted to the &quot;500
Twin&quot; and &quot;350 Bullet&quot; Models, unscrew the
pivot pin locknut and the operating lever nut,
after which the assembly of the brake shoes,
return springs, pivot pin and operating cam can
be removed from the cover plate by unscrewing
the pivot pin and applying light blows with a
hammer and drift on the end of the operating
cam. The return springs can then be unhooked
from the spring posts in the brake shoes, thus
allowing the whole assembly to fall apart.
end of the spindle with a copper hammer or mallet
thus driving it out of the hub, bringing one bearing
with it and leaving the other in position in the hub.
Drive the bearing off the spindle and insert the
latter once more in the hub at the end from which
it was removed. Now drive the spindle through the
hub in the opposite direction, when it will bring
out the remaining bearing.
8. Refitting Ball Bearings
Note that the two ends of the spindle are not
identical. The end with the shorter plain portion
between the thread and the shoulder must be fitted
to the brake drum side of the wheel.
To refit the bearings in the hub two hollow
drifts are required, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. One
bearing is first fitted to one end of the spindle by
means of the hollow drift; the spindle and bearing
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
are then entered into one end of the hub barrel
which is then supported on one of the hollow
drifts. The other bearing is then threaded over the
upper end of the spindle and driven home by
means of the second hollow drift either under a
press or by means of a hammer which will thus
drive both bearings into position simultaneously.
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10. Cush Drive
The sprocket/brake drum is free to rotate on
the hub barrel. Three radial vanes are formed on
the back of the brake drum and three similar
vanes are formed on the cush drive shell. Six
rubber blocks are fitted between the vanes on the
brake drum and those on the cush drive shell,
thus permitting only a small amount of angular
movement of the sprocket/brake drum relative to
the hub barrel and transmitting both driving and
braking torque and smoothing out harshness and
irregularity in the former.
If the cush drive rubbers become worn so
that the amount of free movement measured at
the tyre exceeds 1/2 in. to 1 in., the rubbers
should be replaced. To obtain access to them
remove the complete wheel as described above,
remove the brake cover plate complete with the
brake shoe assembly, unscrew the three locknuts
at the back of the cush drive shell-if necessary
holding the studs, 32431, by means of the flats on
the heads inside the brake drum. Drive out the
three studs into the brake drum after which the
sprocket/brake drum can be separated from
should not have any effect on the ease with which
the spindle can be turned. If tightening the nuts
makes the spindle hard to turn this may be taken
as proof that the bearings are bottoming in the
recesses in the hub barrel before they are solid
against the shoulders on the spindle. In this case
the bearing should be removed and a thin packing
shim fitted between the inner race and the
shoulder on the spindle.
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In order to make quite sure that there is
clearance between the inner faces of the outer
bearings and the bottom of the recesses fit the
distance washers against the inner races of the
bearings and either fit the assembly of brake cover
plate, speedometer gearbox, etc., or make up this
distance with tubular distance pieces. Fit and
tighten the spindle nuts. Tightening the nuts
9. Removal of Brake Operating Cam and
Brake Shoe Pivot Pin
The method of doing this has already been
described in Paragraph 3 dealing with the 6 in.
brake. The method is precisely the same for the 7
in. brake except that, owing to the different type
of return springs used, it is, in this case, possible
to remove the shoes from the pivot pin and
operating cam before the latter are removed from
the cover plate.
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the cush drive shell and the six cush drive rubbers
can be lifted out.
When reassembling the cush drive the entry of
the vanes between the rubbers will be facilitated if
the latter are fitted into the driving shell first and
then tilted. The rubbers should be liberally
painted with soapsuds to facilitate entry of the
vanes.
When reassembling the cush drive coat the
inside of the bore of the sprocket/brake drum
liberally with grease where it fits over the hub
barrel and also put grease on the inner face of the
lockring, 10097. The three Simmonds nuts should
be tightened down solid as there is a shoulder on
the stud which prevents tightening of the nuts
from locking the operation of the cush drive.
14. Wheel Rim.
The rim fitted to both types of wheel is WM219 in. pierced with 40 holes for spoke nipple The
internal width is 1.580 in. and the diameter after
building 19.062 in., the tolerance on the
circumference of the rim shoulders where the tyre
fits being 59.930/59.870 in. The standard
measuring tape for checking rims is 5/16 in. wide
.011 in. thick and its length is 59.964/59.901.
Note that two makes of rim are used &quot;Dunlop&quot;
and &quot;Palmer Jointless.&quot; These differ in the
positions of the pierced spoke holes. The Dunlop
rims have a group of three holes on one side of
the centre line, then a single hole on the other side,
a further group of three and a single hole and so
on. Palmer rims have the hole alternately spaced
either side of the centre line. Both rims are
interchangeable and both use the. same length
spokes but the method of lacing the wheel is
different (see paragraph 16). Neither type of rim is
symmetrical and care must he taken that they are
built the right way round into the wheel.
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15. Spokes
The spokes are of the single butted type 8-10
gauge with 90&deg; countersunk heads, angle of bend
95&deg;-100`, thread diameter .144 in., 40 threads per
inch, thread form British Standard Spoke lengths
are as follows :
&quot;350 Clipper&quot; up to 1959, 8.5/8 in. and 7.3/4 in.
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12. Centering Cam Housing
Note that the bolt holes in the cam housing are
slotted, thus enabling the brake shoe assembly to
be centered in the drum. It is not intended that on
rear brakes the cam housing should be left free to
float but the shoes should be centered by leaving
tile screws just short of dead tight. The brake
cover plate assembly with the shoes should then
be fitted over the spindle into the brake drum and
tyre brake applied as hard as possible by means of
the operating lever. This will centre the shoe-in
the drum. The screws should then be tightened
dead tight and secured with the locknuts. If the
shoes are not correctly centered the brake will be
either ineffective or too fierce, depending on
whether the trailing or leading shoe first makes
contact with the drum. With the brake assembly
correctly centered and the screws securing the cam
housing correctly tightened wear on both linings
should be approximately equal
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11. Reassembly of Brake Shoes, Pivot Pin and
Operating Cam into Cover Plate
No difficulty should be experienced in
carrying out these operation. Make sure that the
pivot pin is really tight in the cover plate and put
a smear of grease in the grooves of the pivot pin
and on the operating face of the cam; also on the
cylinder al bearing surface of the operating cam if
this has been removed. Fit the operating lever and
trunnion on its splines in a position to suit the
extent of wear on the linings and secure with the
nut. The range of adjustment can be extended by
moving the lever on to a different spline.
13. Final Reassembly of Hub before Replacing
Wheel
Before replacing the felt washers which form
the grease seals, pack both bearings with grease
Recommended greases are Castrolease (Heavy ),
Mobilgrease (No. 4), Esso Grease, Energrease C3;
or Shell Retinax A. These are all medium heavy
lime soap or aluminium soap greases. The use of
H.M.P. greases which have a soda soap base is not
recommended as these tend to be slighty corrosive
if any damp finds its way into the hub
Make sure that the inside of the brake drum
quite free from oil or grease, damp, etc. Replace
the felt washers, distance collars, the brake cover
plate assembly, speedometer drive gearbox,
distance collars, chain adjuster cams, the loose
section of the spindle and the spindle nut. The
wheel is then ready for reassembly into the
machine
16. Wheel Building and truing
Spokes are laced one over three and the wheel
must be built central in relation to the outer faces
of the distance collars which fit between the
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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valve last, also with the edge of the cover at the
other side of the wheel pushed down into the
well.
If the correct method of fitting and removal of
the tyre is adopted it will be found that the covers
can be manipulated quite easily with the small
levers supplied in the toolkit. The use of long
levers and/or excessive force is liable to damage
the walls of the tyre. After inflation make sure that
the tyre is fitting evenly all the way round the rim.
A line moulded on the wall of the tyre indicates
whether or not the tyre is correctly fitted. If the
tyre has a white mark, indicating a balance point,
this should be fitted near the valve.
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18. Tyre Pressures
The load which the tyre will carry at different
inflation pressures is shown below:
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17. Tyres
Standard tyres are Dunlop 3.50-19 in.
Universal tread except on the &quot;350 Bullet&quot; where
a 3.25-19 in. Universal tyre is used.
When removing the tyre always start close to
the valve and see that the edge of the cover at the
other side of the wheel is pushed down into the
well in the rim.
When replacing the tyre fit the part by the
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fork ends. The rim should be trued as accurately
as possible, the maximum permissible run-out
both sideways and radially being plus or minus
1/32 in.
Fig. 5 shows the difference between the lacing
when using Dunlop and Palmer rims. The key to
correct lacing is the inside spokes to the large
flange on the cush drive shell which must slope in
the direction shown in Fig. 5. With the Dunlop
rim this spoke goes to the middle hole of one of
the groups of three (see paragraph 14) and the rim
must be built into the wheel so that these groups
of three holes are on the right of the centre line
when the cush drive is on the left, i.e. the inside
spokes to the large flange cross from the left to
the right of the centre line.
With the Palmer rim the spokes from the large
flange on the cush drive shell go to the more
steeply angled holes in the rim which must be on
the left of the centre line when the cush drive is
on the left, i.e. none of the spokes crosses from
left to right of the centre line.
19. Lubrication
A greasing point is provided in the centre of
the hub barrel. Unless the barrel is packed full
with grease on assembly (which is apt to lead to
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
trouble through grease finding its way past the felt
seals on to the brake linings) this greasing point is
of little value and the best way to grease the
bearings is by packing them with grease after
dismantling the hub as described above.
Note that the brake cam is drilled for a grease
passage but the end of this is stopped up with a
countersunk screw instead of being fitted with a
grease nipple. This is done to prevent excessive
greasing by over-enthusiastic owners. If the cam is
smeared with grease on assembly it should require
no further attention but in case of necessity it is
possible to remove the screw, fit a grease nipple in
its place and grease the cam by this means.
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Section L12 Page 6
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION L13
Rear Wheel
Brake and Full-Width Hub)
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(Quickly Detachable Type with 7 in. diameter
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2. Removal and Replacement of Main Portion
of Wheel for Tyre Repairs, etc.
Place the machine on the centre stand, if
necessary putting packing pieces beneath the legs
of the stand to lift the wheel clear of the ground.
Remove the dual seat (if fitted) and the detachable
portion of the rear mudguard. Unscrew the loose
section of the spindle, 41369, and withdraw this,
together with the chain adjuster cam, 36649,
preferably marking this to ensure that it is replaced
in the same position. Now slide the distance collar,
41372, out of the fork end and lift away the
speedometer drive gearbox, which can be left
attached to the driving cable. The spacing collar,
40989, and the felt washer behind it may now be
removed to prevent risk of them falling out when
manipulating the tyre. If, however, these are too
tight a fit in the hub to come out easily they may
be left in place. The main body of the wheel can
now be pulled across to the right-hand side of the
machine, thus disengaging the six driving pins
from the cush drive shell and enabling the wheel
to be lifted out of the machine.
When replacing the main portion of the wheel,
reverse the foregoing procedure. The cush drive
shell can be prevented from rotating when turning
the wheel to engage the six driving pins, if the
machine is placed in gear or the rear brake is
operated, taking care, when replacing the
speedometer drive gearbox, that the driving dogs
inside the gearbox engage with the slots in the end
of the hub barrel. Before tightening the centre
spindle make sure that the speedometer drive
gearbox is correctly positioned so that there is no
sharp bend in the driving cable.
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1. Description
This wheel is of the &quot;detachable&quot; type, which
enables the main portion of the wheel to be
removed from the machine without disturbing the
chain or brake. The wheel incorporates the
well-known Enfield cush drive and also a 7-in.
internal expanding brake.
3. Removal and Replacement of Complete
wheel for Access to Brake
Place the machine on the centre stand and
remove the dual seat (if fitted) and detachable
portion of the rear mudguard as if for removal of
the main portion of the wheel only. Disconnect
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REMOVAL OF WHEEL (OFFSIDE VIEW)
Fig. 2
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Section L13 Page 2
of the fork ends, tilting it so as to disengage the
end of the brake shoe pivot pin from the slot in
the fork end.
When replacing the wheel make sure that the
dogs on the gear in the speedometer drive gearbox
are engaged with the slots in the end of the hub
barrel. Make sure also that the speedometer drive
gearbox is correctly positioned so that there is no
sudden bend in the driving cable. When replacing
the connecting link in the driving chain make sure
that the closed end of the spring link points in the
direction of travel of the chair. Replace the chain
adjuster cams in their original positions or, if
necessary, turn each of them the same number of
notches to tension the chain and maintain correct
wheel alignment. Do not forget to refit the brake
rod and adjust the brake so that the wheel turns
freely when the brake is off, while at the same
time only a light pressure on the brake pedal is
necessary to put the brake on.
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Note that the wheel is not necessarily
correctly lined up when the same notch
position is used on both adjuster cams. Once
the position of the cams which gives correct
alignment has been found this alignment will,
however, be maintained if both cams are
moved the same number of notches.
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the rear driving chain at the spring link and remove
the chain from the rear wheel sprocket leaving it in
position on the gearbox countershaft sprocket.
Unscrew the rear brake rod adjusting nut
completely and depress the brake pedal so as to
disengage the rod from the trunnion in the brake
operating lever. Unscrew the brake cover plate
anchor nut, 7598, and remove this together with the
washer behind it. Unscrew the loose section of the
spindle, 41369, two or three turns and the spindle
nut, 28832, by a similar amount. Mark the chain
adjuster cams to ensure replacing in the same
position.* Disconnect the speedometer driving
cable and slide the wheel out
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4. Removal of Brake Shoes for Replacement,
etc.
Remove the complete wheel as described
above, then remove the spindle nut, 28832, chain
adjuster and the distance collar, 41373, thus
permitting the complete brake cover plate with
operating cam, pivot pin, shoes and return
springs to be lifted off the hub spindle. The brake
shoes can then be removed after detaching the
return springs. The brake linings are bonded to
the shoes and if requiring to be renewed, should
be sent for servicing.
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5. Removal of Brake Operating Cam and
Brake Shoe Pivot Pin
The pivot pin is threaded into the torque
plate, 41109, from which it can be unscrewed
after removing the locknut, 41375.
To remove the operating cam unscrew the
nut, 10314, which secures the operating lever to
the splines on the cam. A sharp tap on the end of
the cam spindle will now free the lever, after
which the cam can be withdrawn from its
housing.
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6. Cush Drive
The sprocket/brake drum, 41233, is free to
rotate on the hub barrel. Three radial vanes are
formed on the back of the brake drum and three
similar vanes are formed on the cush drive shell,
40967. Six rubber blocks are fitted between the
vanes on the brake drum and those on the cush
drive shell, thus permitting only a small amount
of angular movement of the sprocket/brake
drum relative to the hub barrel and transmitting
both driving and braking torques and smoothing
out harshness and irregularity in the former.
If the cush drive rubbers become worn so that
the amount of free movement measured at the tyre
exceeds 1/2 in. to 1 in the rubbers. should be
replaced. To obtain access to them remove the
complete wheel as described above ; then unscrew
the loose section of the spindle, 41369, completely.
The main portion of the wheel can then be lifted
away from the assembly consisting of the fixed
portion of the spindle, sprocket/brake drum
complete with brake and the cush drive shell. Now
remove the brake cover plate complete with brake
shoes as described above, and unscrew the three
nuts at the back of the cush drive shell after
bending back the locking washers. The three studs,
41002, are brazed to the lockring, 10097, and
should be driven out of the cush drive shell, each a
little at a time to avoid distorting the lockring or
bending the studs. The sprocket/brake drum can
now be separated from the cush drive shell, and the
six cush drive rubbers lifted out.
When reassembling the cush drive the entry of
the vanes between the rubbers will be facilitated if
the latter are fitted into the driving shell first and
then tilted. The rubbers should be liberally smeared
with soapsuds to facilitate entry of the vanes.
Grease the inner face of the lockring, 10097, before
assembling and tighten the three nuts down solid as
there is a shoulder on the stud which prevents
tightening of the nuts from locking the operation of
the cush drive. Do not forget to bend up the tabs of
the three locking washers.
When reassembling the cush drive, coat the
inside of the bore of the sprocket/brake drum
liberally with grease where it fits over the hub
barrel.
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7. Removal of Ball Bearings
To remove the ball bearings take the complete
wheel out of the machine and separate the main
portion of the wheel from the sprocket/brake
drum, cush drive shell assembly, as described above.
To remove the bearing from the sprocket/ brake
drum, first remove the brake cover plate complete
with brake shoe assembly ; then remove the
distance collar, 41105, and unscrew the bearing
retaining ring, 41108, with peg spanner. Now screw
the loose section of the spindle into the fixed
section and drive out the bearing by hitting the
hexagon-headed end of the loose section of the
spindle.
To remove the bearings from the loose half of
the hub barrel, first lift away the distance collar,
41372, speedometer drive gearbox, the spacing
collar, 40989, and the felt washer, 41006. Remove
the bearing retaining circlip from the driving
sprocket end of the barrel. Between the two
bearings is a spacer, 40995, slotted at one end to
enable a drift to be used on the bearing at that end.
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
Remove this bearing first, then enter the loose
section of the spindle into the spacer and drive out
the remaining bearing by means of a hammer and
drift applied to the hexagon-headed end of the
spindle.
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8. Hub Bearings
These are deep-groove single-row journal ball
bearings. The sprocket/brake drum bearing is a
Skefko RLS7, 7/8 in. i/d, by 2 in. o/d, by 9/16 in.
wide. Equivalent bearings of other makes are
Hoffmann LS9, Ransome &amp; Marles LJ. 7/8 in.,
and Fischer LS9. The two bearings in the hub
barrel are Skefko RLS5, 5/8 in. i/d, by 1.9/16 in.
o/d, by 7/16 in. wide. Equivalent bearings of
other makes are Hoffman LS7, Ransome &amp;
Marles LJ 5/8 in., and Fischer LS7.
11. Reassembly of Brake Shoes, Pivot Pin and
Operating Cam into Cover Plate
No difficulty should be experienced in
carrying out these operations. Make sure that the
pivot pin is really tight in the cover plate and put
a smear of grease in the grooves of the pivot pin
and on the operating face of the cam ; also on to
the cylindrical bearing surface of the operating
cam if this has been removed. Fit the operating
lever and trunnion, 23371, on its splines in a
position to suit the extent of wear on the linings
and secure with the nut. The range of
adjustment can be extended by moving the lever
on to a different spline.
12. Centering Cam Housing
Note that the bolt holes in the cam housing,
26347, are slotted, thus enabling the brake shoe
assembly to be centered in the drum. It is not
intended that on rear brakes the cam housing
should be left free to float but the shoes should
be centred by leaving the screws, 26309 and
35140, just short of dead tight. The brake cover
plate assembly with the shoes should then be
fitted over the spindle into the brake drum and
the brake applied as hard as possible by means of
the operating lever. This will centre the shoes in
the drum. The screws should then be tightened
dead tight and secured with the locknuts. If the
shoes are not correctly centered the brake will be
either ineffective or too fierce, depending on
whether the trailing or leading shoe first makes
contact with the drum. With the brake assembly
correctly centered and the screws securing the
cam housing correctly tightened wear on both
linings should be approximately equal.
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Section L13 Page 4
13. Final Reassembly of Hub Before
Replacing Wheel
Before replacing the felt washers which form
the grease seals, pack all bearings with grease.
Recommended greases are Castrolease LM,
Mobilgrease MP, Esso Multipurpose Grease H,
Energrease L2, Shell Retinax A or Marfak
Multipurpose 2. These are all medium heavy lime
soap or aluminium soap greases. The use of
H.M.P. greases which have a soda soap base is
not recommended as these tend to be slightly
corrosive if any damp finds it way into the hubs.
Make sure that the inside of the brake drum is
quite free from oil or grease, damp, etc. Replace
the felt washers, distance collars, the brake cover
plate assembly, speedometer drive gearbox,
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10. Refitting Ball Bearings
To refit the sprocket/brake drum bearing, use
a hollow drift as shown in Fig. 4. The bearing is
first fitted to the fixed section of the spindle ; the
spindle and bearing are then entered into the
sprocket/brake drum and driven home, preferably
under a press or using light hammer blows.
The two bearings in the hub barrel are pressed
in, using the drift part of E.4823. First assemble
the bearing into the circlip grooved end of the
barrel and fit the circlip. Replace the bearing
spacer, the slot in the spacer can be at either end of
the hubs, and assemble the second bearing,
supporting the hub on the inner race of the other
bearing. If the drift part of E.4823 is not available
it is essential that the last bearing is assembled by
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9. Removal of Hub Driving Pins
To remove the six driving pins from the
aluminium fullwidth hub, first remove the hub cap
after unscrewing the three screws attaching it to
the hub. Unscrew the six Simmonds nuts and
drive out the pins.
applying pressure to both inner and outer races
simultaneously to avoid pre-loading the two hub
barrel bearings.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
distance collars, 41373 and 41372, chain adjuster
cams, the loose section of the spindle and the
spindle nut, 28832. The wheel is then ready for
reassembly into the machine.
17. Tyre
Sizes are as follows:
&quot;350 Clipper&quot; 1960 onwards: 3.25-17 in.
&quot;350 Bullet&quot; 1959 onwards: 3.25-17 in.
&quot;500 Bullet&quot; up to 1959: 3.50-19 in.
&quot;500 Bullet&quot; 1960 onwards: 3.25-19 in.
When removing the tyre always start close to
the valve and see that the edge of the cover at the
other side of the wheel is pushed down into the
well in the rim.
When replacing the tyre fit the part by the valve
last, also with the edge of the cover at the other
side of the wheel pushed down into the well.
If the correct method of fitting and removal of
the tyre is adopted it will be found that the covers
can be manipulated quite easily with the small
levers supplied in the toolkit. The use of long levers
and/or excessive force is liable to damage the walls
of the tyre. After inflation make sure that the tyre is
fitting evenly all the way round the rim. A line
moulded on the wall of the tyre indicates whether
or not the tyre is correctly fitted. If the tyre has a
white mark indicating a balance point, this should
be fitted near the valve.
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14. Wheel Rim
The wheel rim is type WM2-19 in. plunged and
pierced with forty holes for spoke nipples. The
spoke holes are symmetrical, i.e., the rim can be
assembled to the hub either way round. The rim
diameter after building is 19.062 in., the tolerances
on the circumference of the rim shoulders where
the tyre fits being 59.930/59.870 in. The standard
steel measuring tape for checking rims is 5/16 in.
wide, .011 in. thick, and its length is
59.964/59.904in.
The &quot;350 Bullet&quot; details are as given below:
The wheel rim is type WM2-17 in. plunged and
pierced with forty holes for spoke nipples. The
spoke holes are symmetrical, i.e. the rim can be
assembled to the hub either way round. The rim
diameter after building is 17.062 in., the tolerances
on the circumference of the rim shoulders where
the tyre fits being 53.642/53.582 in. The standard
steel measuring tape for checking rims is 5/16 in.
wide, .011 in. thick, and its length is 53.676/53.616
in.
The spokes are of the single-butted type, 8-10
gauge, with 90&deg; countersunk heads, thread
diameter .144 in., 40 threads per inch, thread form
British Standard Cycle. The inner spokes are 5.5/8
in. long with an angle of bend 100&deg;, and the outer
spokes 5.3/4 in. long with an angle of bend 80&deg;.
possible, the maximum permissible run-out both
sideways and radially being plus or minus 1/32 in.
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16. Wheel Building and Truing
The spokes are laced one over two and the
wheel rim must be built central in relation to the
outer faces of the distance collars 41373 and
41372. The rim should be trued as accurately as
19. Lubrication
Grease the bearings by packing them with
grease after dismantling the hub as described
above.
Note that the brake cam is drilled for a grease
passage but the end of this is stopped up with a
countersunk screw instead of being fitted with a
grease nipple. This is done to prevent excessive
greasing by over-enthusiastic owners. If the cam is
smeared with grease on assembly it should require
no further attention but in case of necessity it is
possible to remove the screw, fit a grease nipple in
its place and grease the cam by this means.
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15. Spokes.
The spokes are of the single butted type, 8-10
gauge, with 90&deg; countersunk heads, thread
diameter, .144 in., 40 threads per inch, thread form
British Standard Cycle. The inner spokes are 6.5/8
in. long with an angle of bend 100&deg;, and the outer
spokes 6.3/4 in. long with an angle of bend 80&deg;.
&quot;Works Replica&quot; up to 1960 and &quot;500 Bullet&quot; up
to 1961: inner and outer spokes 6.5/8 in.&quot;350
Bullet&quot; up to 1958: 6.5/8 in. and 6.3/4 in.&quot;350
Bullet&quot; 1959 onwards, &quot;350 Clipper&quot; 1960
onwards: 5.3/4 in. and 5.5/8 in.
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18. Tyre Pressures
The recommended pressures for the rear tyre
are 16 lb. per square inch for wheel loads not
exceeding 280lb., 18 lb. per square inch for loads
up to 320lb., 20 lb. per square inch for loads up to
350lb., 24 lb. per square inch for loads up to 400
lb., 28 lb. per square inch up to 450lb., and 32 lb.
per square inch up to 500 lb.
Section L13 Page 5
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION M2
Special Tools
Use
Page
Magdyno Pinion Extractor (Tool Kit) ........... ... ...... 1
Valve Spring Compressor ............. ....... ........... ... ...... 1
Valve Guide Mandrels ................... ....... ........... ... ...... 1
Gudgeon Pin Extractor (Adaptor if necessary)
I
Valve Grinding Tool ...................... ....... ........... ... ...... 2
Pump Disc Lapping Tool
... ....... ........... ... ...... 2
Pump Worm Shaft Spanner
... ....... ........... ... ...... 2
Tappet Guide Extractor
….. .... ........... ... ...... 2
Clutch Centre Extractor
………………….2
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SECTION C2
SubSection
No.
4, 18
14835
7
TE1124
9
11
E5477
13
TE1167
16
E5425
17
E5451
21
E5410
23
E5414
SECTION D2
3
E5121
4
E4816
4
E4817
5
E6462
6
E2775
6
E2774
SECTION H 1
5
E5431
SECTION J I
3
E4912
3
E5418
SECTION J 3
3
E4912
3
E5418
SECTION J4
2
E4912
2
E 5417
2
E5418
For &quot;Bullet &quot; Models
Frame Expander
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Gland Nut Grips
Lockring Spanner
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Crankshaft Extractor
................... 4
Roller Race Assembly, Timing Side
........... ... ...... 3
Bearing Assembly, Driving Side
........... ... ...... 3
Locating Plate for Assembly of Cam Spindles.......... 4
Crankshaft Pot or Jig (&quot;350 Bullet &quot;) ............... .. . 4
Crankshaft Pot or Jig (&quot;500 Bullet'')
4
5
5
Outer Tube Hand Grips ........... ... ........ ... ........ ... ...... 5
Gland Nut Hand Grips ........... .. ......... . .......... ... ...... 5
Lockring Spanner ........... ........... ... ........ ... ........ ... ...... 5
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Gland Nut Hand Grips ........... ... .............................. 5
Lockring Spanner
........... ................................. 5
Section M2 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section M2 Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section M2 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section M2 Page 4
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section M2 Page 5
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section M2 Page 6
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section M4 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
SECTION Pl
&quot;Airflow&quot; Fairing
bridge piece from the bottom of the speedometer,
it may be removed.
To remove the ammeter it is only necessary to
take off the rubber band from the body of the
ammeter, after disconnecting the leads, and press
down the small metal tabs which will be found
turned outwards. The ammeter will then pull out
from the top of the fairing.
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1. Description of the Fairing
The &quot;Airflow&quot; fairing and front mudguard
are fibre glass units and therefore very light,
rigid and tough. The fairing, with the
windscreen, provides full weather protection. It
has two cubby holes and incorporates the
headlamp, speedometer, ammeter and lighting
switch.
On the rare occasions that it may be
necessary to remove the mudguard and fairing
from the machine, it will be found to present no
difficulty if the following sequence is adopted:
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6. Removal of the Front Mudguard
From the top of the fairing the two clamp
bolts holding the mudguard to the fork crown
can be reached. Unscrew the nuts and push out
the bolts.
On early models it is necessary to remove the
centre pin securing the guard to the bottom of
the steering stem. The mudguard may now be
withdrawn.
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4. Removal of the Headlamp Switch,
Speedometer and Ammeter
Undo the switch knob screw and remove the
knob. Unscrew the switch plate nut and remove
the switch plate. The switch body may now be
pulled out from beneath the fairing. Do not lose
the plain washer situated beneath the switch
knob.
Disconnect the speedometer drive, and, after
removing two nuts, the spring washers and the
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3. Removal of the Headlamp
Take out the small screw from the underside
of the headlamp rim. Raise the rim to clear its
spigot plate from the slot in the lamp body shell
and remove. Next take off the rubber ring from
the light unit. By slackening the three light unit
adjuster screws and rotating the light unit in an
anti-clockwise direction, the unit may then be
withdrawn sufficiently to disconnect the four
leads.
Should it be necessary to remove the lamp
body shell this may be done by unscrewing the
four screws spaced round its flange. This also
releases the rubber washer. Care should be taken
not to lose the four screw locking plates inside
the fairing.
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2. Removal of the windscreen
Remove the two screws which attach the
number plate to the fairing. Removal of the
number plate will expose a screw in the centre
of the fairing which may now be taken out,
together with the screws at each corner of the
screen. The screen and metal back plate may
now be lifted clear, taking care not to lose the
five female screws with their plain steel and
rubber washers.
5. Removal of the Front Wheel and Fork Legs
To remove the front wheel from the fork,
place the machine on the centre stand with
sufficient packing (about 2 in.) beneath each side
of the stand to lift the wheel clear off the ground
when tilted back on to the rear wheel. Slacken
the brake cable adjustment and disconnect the
cable from the handlebar lever and from the
operating cam lever on the hub. Unscrew the
four nuts securing the fork leg caps and allow the
wheel to drop forward out of the front fork.
Make sure that the machine stands securely on
the rear wheel and centre stand-if necessary
place a weight on the saddle or a strut beneath
the fork to ensure this.
Unscrew the plug screws in the fork head,
when the sliding fork legs, complete with springs
and spring distance tubes, can be withdrawn
from the lower ends of the main tubes.
7. Removal of the Fairing
First take off the exhaust pipe. This is held to
one of the front engine bearer bolts and to the
pillion footrest stud at the rear.
Slacken the hose clips and remove the
attachment caps from the ends of the attachment
stud to which the lower part of the fairing is
anchored.
Unscrew the nuts and push out the stud which
secures the upper part of the fairing to the tube
extending forward from the steering head.
If required the two bottom attachment studs
may be removed.
Section P1 Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section P1 Page 2
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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Section P1 Page 3
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
8. Repairs
In the event of damage to the fairing, small
repair kits consisting of a quantity of resin,
catalyst and glass fibre are available from our
Service Department. Instructions for carrying
out minor repairs are issued with this kit.
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9. Reassembly of the
Fairing
If these have been removed replace the two
bottom fairing attachment studs, also fit the
rubber sleeve to the down tube. Next raise the
fairing over the fork cover tubes, locating the
bottom attachment plates on each leg shield
over the attachment studs.
Incline the fairing outwards and thread the
light and switch leads through the strut tube
aperture, and the speedometer cable through the
smaller hole below it. The fairing can then be
pushed towards the forks until the strut tube,
complete with buffer assembly, has entered the
aperture and is positioned between the strut tube
attachment plates. Fit the stud through the buffer
assembly and attachment plates and secure
washers and nuts to either end.
Complete the fairing assembly to the
machine by fixing the attachment cap over the
attachment stud rubber. Compress these parts
together and secure with the attachment clip.
The exhaust system may now be fitted.
lamp wire, through the hole in the lamp body
shell. Fit the body shell rubber washer between
the fairing and the lamp body shell rim, and line
up the holes in the shell rim, the washer and the
fairing aperture rim. Secure with the four screws
and locking plates, keeping the threaded plate at
the bottom.
Connect the blue and red and the blue and
white wires to the main bulb wires in the back of
the light unit. Push the green and brown lead
into the pilot lamp socket and the single red
earth wire from the main harness into the socket
on the main bulb fitting.
The light unit may now be pushed over the
three adjusters, after first slackening them. Turn
the light unit in a clockwise direction to secure.
Afterwards tighten all the adjusters as far as
possible.
Place the rubber ring over the light unit, with
the face marked &quot;BACK&quot; facing the light unit
rim. Locate the spigot plate, situated on the top
underside of the rim, with the slot in the lamp
body shell. Press the rim downwards and screw
in the pin at the bottom of the rim.
Finally, adjust the aim of the light beam by
turning the adjuster screws in a clockwise
direction from the rear as neccessary. Do not
turn them further than required, not more than
two screws will need adjusting.
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Section P1 Page 4
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11. Reassembly of Headlamp
Thread the red earth wire, the blue and red,
and the blue and white main bulb wires from the
dipper switch, and one green and brown pilot
12. Reassemble of Ammeter, Headlamp
Switch and Speedometer
Insert the ammeter into the off-side hole in
the fairing, turn up under the fairing the small
tabs on the ammeter, and fit the rubber ring,
pushing it up as far as possible. Connect up the
two wires with the tab washer type connections
to the ammeter terminals.
Push the switch up from the underside of the
fairing, place in position the switch plate and
secure with the nut. Finally, put on the small
washer and the switch knob, and secure with the
screw.
Push the speedometer into the fairing from
above, and secure the bracket with the nuts and
washers from below. Fit the speedometer drive
and lamp.
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10. Reassembly of Mudguard, Fork Legs
and Wheel
Fit the two sealing washers to the fork cover
tubes, not forgetting the small sealing washer for
the fork crown extension tube on Early Models.
Raise the mudguard, and thread the cover tubes
(and the fork crown extension when fitted)
through their respective holes. Line up the
mudguard bracket holes with the fork crown clip
bolt holes and fit the bolts, washers and nuts
finger tight. (On Early Models fit the fork crown
extension stud and washer.)
Slide the fork legs up into the fork head.
Centralise the fork leg top with the cover tube,
and push up to the full extent. Fit and tighten the
plug screws in the fork head.
The fork crown clip bolts may now be
tightened.
Replace the wheel and connect up the brake
cable at both ends. Do not forget to readjust
the brake.
13. Reassembly of Windscreen
Put the female screws, with their plain steel
and rubber washers, into the back plate and
windscreen, and line up with the holes in the
fairing. Be sure to use the shortest male screw
for the centre countersunk hole, and the two
longest for attaching the number plate.
ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
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SPARES for ROYAL ENFIELD &amp; AMAL
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HITCHCOCK’S MOTORCYCLES
ROSEMARY COURT
OLDWICH LANE WEST
CHADWICK END
SOLIHULL
B93 0EY
ENGLAND
TELEPHONE: 01564 783 192
s.
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E-MAIL: [email protected]
WEB: hitchcocksmotorcycles.com
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