Instructions for use Mode d`emploi GRANDE COMPLICATION

Instructions for use Mode d`emploi GRANDE COMPLICATION
Instructions for use
Mode d’emploi
G rande C omplication
R oyal O ak et
J ules A udemars
Calibre 2885
Selfwinding
<
<
2
9
1
9
Royal Oak
3
6
3
2
1
8
6
8
7
Jules Audemars
7
5
5
;
:
;
4
:
4
c
c
f
e
f
e
d
d
k
k
g
i
A
j
g
i
A
B
h
h
j
B
English
1 Introduction
p 41
The Manufacture Audemars Piguet
The Grande Complication
Corrections if the watch has stopped for more
than 3 days
1. The leap-year
2. The month
p 50
4. The day
5. The week
Views of the movement
Movement technical data
Watch indications and functions
6. The moon phase
Table of contents
3 Basic functions
English
3. The date
2 Watch description
7. Time reset
p 55
Setting the time
Time-zone adjustments
Winding the watch
Functions and use of the split-seconds
chronograph
Functions and use of the minute repeater
Adjusting the perpetual calendar indications
The moon phase
The leap-year cycle
Corrections if the watch has stopped for less
than 3 days
4 Accessories
p 67
Rotating presentation case
Sounding board
Setting stylus
5 Additional comments
p 69
Quick-link contents page.
Simply click on the relevant title or subheading to
following the link to your chosen section.
Click on the white “English” to return to the main
contents page.
38
39
English
The Manufacture
Audemars Piguet
1 Introduction
The Vallée de Joux : cradle of the watchmaker’s art
I
n the heart of the Swiss Jura, around 50 kilometres
north of Geneva, nestles a landscape which
has retained its natural charm to this day : the
Vallée de Joux. Around the mid-18th century, the harsh
climate of this mountainous region and soil depletion
drove the farming community settled there to seek other
sources of income. With their high degree of manual
dexterity, inexhaustible creativity and enormous
determination, the inhabitants of the valley, known as
Combiers, were naturally drawn to watchmaking.
Due to their high quality, the movements they produced
acquired great popularity with the Geneva firms which
used them to create complete watches.
From 1740 onwards, watchmaking developed into the
principal industry of the Vallée de Joux. This region was
thus transformed, as an 1881 chronicle put it, “ into a
land of milk and honey, in which poverty has rapidly
disappeared ”.
40
41
n 1875, two young men passionate about
Haute Horlogerie — Jules-Louis Audemars and
Edward‑August Piguet — decided to pool their skills
to design and produce watches with complications
in the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of Haute
Horlogerie. Determination, imagination and
discipline led them to instant success. A
branch in Geneva was their next move in about
1885 and new commercial links were forged
at the 1889 Paris World Exposition, where
they exhibited complication pocket watches.
The Audemars Piguet factory continued to
expand as the years went by. Its creations
represented major milestones in the history of
Haute Horlogerie, like the first minute repeater
wristwatch in 1892 and the smallest
five-minute repeater movement ever
made in 1915.
From 1918 onwards, the founders
passed the reins of the business onto
their sons, who in turn perfected their
expertise in manufacturing men's and
ladies' wristwatches as well as designing
new sophisticated, ultra-thin movements. Perseverance
and initiative were the watchwords : while the Wall
Street crash in 1929 was a bitter blow, the company
directors were soon designing so-called skeleton
watches before embarking on chronograph production.
42
English
I
But this new momentum was abruptly interrupted by
the Second World War. Re-organisation was necessary
in the aftermath of the conflict. The factory focused
on creating top-of-the-range items in keeping with its
tradition of innovation. A strategy that would
prove its worth, especially since it was backed
by outstanding creative daring.
Audemars Piguet continued to build on its
now international reputation with creative
designs. 1972 saw the launch of the Royal
Oak, the first, immediately successful
high-quality sports watch in steel, followed
in 1986 by the first ultra-thin tourbillon
wristwatch with automatic winding. The
creative spirit of the Manufacture has
not faltered since, offering aesthetically
original timekeepers with outstanding
movements. Thus it brought watches with
complications back into fashion at the end
of the 1980s, launching its extraordinary
Tradition d’Excellence collection in 1999.
All the signs of a bold spirit rooted firmly in
tradition and auguring well for the future.
1 Introduction
Two names for a great adventure
43
“ Grande Complication ”
W
1 Introduction
English
hat is a “ Grande Complication ”? The layman would
compare it to an intr icate maze, whereas a
watchmaker would say that a major complication allows a
timepiece to reveal more about time. The master watchmaker — a virtuoso of arrangements that might seem
improbable to others, enamoured of fine workmanship
as well as cutting-edge technology — knows that a
Grande Complication takes the finishing process to the
limit. Yet again, this proves how the hand of a skilled
craftsman makes all the difference.
Complications can be classified in three categories. The
first consists of watches with one or several additional
hands to indicate the time (e.g. the chronograph,
split-seconds and jumping seconds chronographs).
The second contains all watches featuring striking
mechanisms. The third refers to watches with mechanisms that provide astronomical indications (e.g. date,
moon phase and equation of time). The prestigious
" Grande Complication " designation is bestowed upon
a watch that possesses at least four different functions
out of these three categories.
It takes great mastery to create a timepiece offering
excellence in every department : design and reliability,
as well as prec ision. The Calibre 2885 by the
Manufac ture Audemars P iguet is a case in point.
Fourteen lignes in diameter (31.60 mm) and 8.55 mm
thick, this self-winding mechanical watch is endowed
with a split-seconds chronograph, a minute repeater and
a perpetual calendar with moon-phase functions.
44
45
Founded in Le Brassus in 1875, the Manufacture Audemars
Piguet soon demonstrated its skills in the art of striking
watches. In 1889, it presented a “ Grande Complication ”
model equipped with a minute repeater mechanism striking the hours, quarters and minutes.
A minute repeater watch strikes on demand a low-pitched
note for each hour, a double high- and low-pitched
note for the quarters, and a high-pitched note for every minute that has elapsed since the last quarter. This
called for a particularly sophisticated mechanism, since
the watch must not only be tuned like a musical instrument, but must also “ know ” at any given time how many
notes it must strike.
English
Watchmakers in the Vallée de Joux have always nurtured a great passion and an innate talent for striking
mechanisms. Perhaps because, amid the silence of the
mountains and the hushed serenity of long snowbound
winters, the crystal-clear sound of these miniature musical marvels strikes an even deeper, more meaningful
chord. Or possibly because such a complex mechanism
was bound to stir their legendary inventive spirit.
1924, making a complete break with the standard analog reading of time, the Manufacture in Le Brassus had
introduced a pocket-watch with jumping hours and small
seconds at 6 o’clock, distinguished by the inherently understated elegance of Art Deco.
A wealth of complexities
Inside the watch, a balance wheel regulates the
movement with precision, at a steady rate of 19,800
vibrations per hour. On the dial, 12 indications decipher
the mysteries of time. The leap-year hand takes four
years to make one full revolution, the month and week
hand one year. The moon phase disc starts its cycle
over again every second lunation. The date hand goes
around once a month, skipping days as decreed by the
calendar. The day of the week hand takes seven days to
complete its circle.
1 Introduction
Musical hours
Throughout the 20 th century, this know-how was
displayed and consolidated in timepieces
much coveted by connoisseurs, in which
striking mechanisms are often associated with other complex mechanisms.
In 1992, Audemars Piguet presented a wristwatch combining a Minute
Repeater mechanism with another of its
specialities: jumping hours. As early as
46
47
English
The chronograph minute hand takes thirty minutes to
complete its journey. Four large hands sweep around
the entire dial face: the hour and minute hands run
continuously, while the chronograph seconds and splitseconds hands can be activated by pressing on their
respective push-pieces. Meanwhile, the imperturbable
small seconds hand continues to conf irm that sixty
seconds still make one minute.
1 Introduction
A remarkable design feat
The striking mechanism is activated by a well-protected
sliding bolt built into the left side of the case-middle.
Tiny hammers str ike a two-pitched gong, v isible
through the transparent sapphire caseback and
sounding the hours, quarters and minutes.
The Grande Complication by Audemars Piguet starts
life on the watchmaker's workbench as an impressive
puzzle with 648 scattered pieces. With great patience,
precision and skill, the master craf tsman creates a
masterpiece whose heart will go on beating much longer
than his own! Only a select few qualif y to enter the
world of complications.
48
49
Views of the movement
Calibre 2885
Movement technical data
Basic thickness : 8.55 mm
Total diameter : 31.60 mm (14 lignes)
Bridge side
English
Fitting diameter : 31 mm
Frequency : 19,800 vibrations/hour (2.75 Hz)
2 Watch description
Number of jewels : 52 rubies
Power reserve : approx. 50 hours
Unidirectional automatic winding
(direction : counter-clockwise, from the dial side)
Self-winding
mechanical movement
Split-seconds chronograph
Variable-inertia balance wheel
Balance spring with the Breguet-Phillips curve
" KIF Elastor " shock protection system
Number of parts : 648
Dial side
Minute repeater
50
Perpetual calendar
51
Corrector push-pieces to adjust the :
(see figure on the inside cover)
g Day of the week
1 Hour hand
h Date (date and day)
2 Minute hand
i Week
3 Small seconds hand
j Month and leap year
4 Chronograph hand
k Moon phase
English
Watch indications and functions
5 Split-seconds chronograph hand
7 Day of the week hand
8 Date hand
9 Week hand
: Month hand
; Leap-year hand
< Moon phase indicator
Chronograph :
c Push-piece to use the chronograph
Push once to start
Push a second time to stop
d Push-piece to reset the chronograph
Split-seconds chronograph :
e Push-piece to activate the split-seconds hand
Push once to stop (and read an intermediate time).
Push a second time to allow the split-seconds
hand to catch up to the chronograph hand
(superimposed position).
Your watch is fitted with a two-position crown :
2 Watch description
6 Minute counter hand
A Crown in manual winding position
B Crown in time-setting position
The Grande Complication indicates the:
• Hours, minutes and seconds
(small seconds at 9 o'clock)
• Date, day, week and month
• Leap-year cycle
• Lunar calendar (moon phases).
The watch strikes the following on request:
• Hours, quarters and minutes
The split-seconds chronograph times:
• Intervals of 1/5th of a second while counting
the total minutes elapsed
• Several events starting at the same time but of
a different duration.
Minute repeater :
f Repeater slide to activate the striking mechanism
52
53
Setting the time
3 Basic functions
English
Pull the crown to position B . You may now set the
time by winding in either direction without risk of
damaging the movement. Recommendation : make
sure to set the time precisely by carefully moving
the hands forward to the time desired.
Warning :
•Never try to set the time when the striking
mechanism is activated.
• Do not confuse noon and midnight.
Time-zone adjustments
The ideal moment for correcting the perpetual
calendar mechanisms is between 1 am and 6 pm.
If it is necessary to move the hands back af ter
midnight, the date and the day of the week will
remain one day ahead. This difference is temporary
and does not require correction.
Winding the watch
To wind the watch manually: turn the crown (in
position A ) at least 30 times. The movements
of the wearer's wrist will activate the automatic
system and keep the watch running.
Warning : the watch must be worn to activate the
automatic system. If not, the automatic system
will not work and the watch will stop after about
two days.
54
55
Functions and use of the
split-seconds chronograph
Functions of the chronograph (view – caseback side)
English
The mechanism is composed of the two timer hands
(chronograph hand and split-seconds hand) in the
centre of the dial. They are in a superimposed
position.
3 Basic functions
Push-piece C is used to activate the chronograph.
Push-piece E is used to control the split-seconds
hand, which c an be used to simult aneously
measure several events that start at the same time
but are of a different duration.
Push-piece C is used to start the chronograph
and split-seconds hands at the same time and to
stop them. The hands take one minute to make
one revolution. Push-piece E is used to stop the
split-seconds hand and read the time for a first
event. The chronograph hand continues to run.
The chronograph starts when push-piece c is pressed.
(N.B. : the view is from the caseback side, so the push-piece is shown in
reverse.)
To stop the chronograph, press push-piece c again. (N.B.: The view is
from the caseback side, so the push-piece is shown in reverse.)
56
57
Press push-piece e again: the split-seconds hand will catch up
with the chronograph hand and they will keep running together
(superimposed).
English
If one presses push-piece E again, the splitseconds hand will catch up with the chronograph
hand. They will keep running together, superimposed. After timing the last event, use the reset
button ( D ) to stop the hands and return them to
their initial position (superimposed).
3 Basic functions
The minute counter hand at three o'clock counts
the total minutes elapsed (one revolut ion is
equivalent to 30 minutes).
Important : the split-seconds chronograph is
designed to measure intervals of elapsed time,
not to run continuously. In addition, never press
push-pieces C and D at the same time : this
might seriously damage the mechanism.
Functions of the split-seconds hand with the chronograph
running (view - caseback side)
Press once on the same push-piece e to stop the split-seconds hand and
read the time for the first event. The chronograph will keep running.
58
After timing the last event, use the reset button (d) to stop
the hands and return them to their initial position (superimposed).
(N.B.: the view is from the caseback side, so the push-piece is shown in reverse.)
59
Functions and use of the
minute repeater
View of the
hour strike mechanism
The striking mechanism is activated by means of
the repeater slide F built into the lef t side of
the case-middle.
View of the
quarter strike mechanism
3 Basic functions
Example : 3 hours 37 minutes
English
The Grande Complication Automatique strikes
the hours, quar ters and minutes on request.
Two tiny hammers strike a gong pitched low for
the hours and high for the minutes; these two
pitches alternate for the quarters.
View of the
minute strike mechanism
A safety system makes it impossible to activate
the striking mechanism if the slide has not been
fully deployed.
N.B. : the extent of slide deployment depends on
the number of hours to be struck.
N.B. : when the strike mechanism is activated,
the slide should be completely free of all external
constraints.
View of the mechanism repeating the hours,
quarters and minutes
60
61
Corrections if the watch has stopped
for less than 3 days
Preliminary notes
Check that the crown is in the proper manual
winding position (position B ). Using the crown,
turn the hands clockwise until they reach the
correct indications.
Indicat ion set t ings may be disturbed if the
correctors are not used properly. These correctors
should only be used when necessary and following
the instructions below closely.
English
Adjusting the perpetual calendar
indications
The moon phase
Precautions
One l unat ion l a s t s f or 29 day s, 12 hour s,
44 minutes and 2.8 seconds.
Check that the crown is in the manual winding
p o s i t i on (p o s i t i on B ). B e f or e u s in g t h e
correctors, use the crown to turn the hands until
the date indicator moves 1 day forward. Continue
to tur n t he hands clock w ise unt il t he y are
positioned at ten minutes past ten. In this position
the mechanism is at rest and the correctors may be
activated with no risk of damaging the calendar
mechanism.
N.B. : The table in the appendix indicates the dates
of different moon phases.
The leap-year cycle
A leap year is a year divisible by four (a year when
the month of February has 29 days).
For example : 1916, 1920 … 2008, 2012, 2016 and
2020.
3 Basic functions
Corrections if the watch has
stopped for more than 3 days
Use the correctors with great care (use the setting
st ylus delivered w ith the watch). Press on
them until the adjustment has been
completed.
The years that are evenly divisible by 100 are not
leap years, unless they are also evenly divisible
by 400.
For example : 1600, 2000 and 2400.
62
63
Procedure for corrections
Correct and set the following indicators, in order :
English
1. Leap-year : adjust if required, using the
corrector ( J ) at 8 o'clock.
2. Month : with the corrector ( J ) at 8 o'clock,
set this indicator to one month before the
desired one.
3 Basic functions
3. Date : with the corrector ( H ) at 4 o'clock,
adjust the day, week, month and year simultaneously.
4. D
ay : set using the corrector ( G ) at 2 o'clock.
5. Week : set using the corrector ( I ) at 9 o'clock.
Day and week
6. Moon phase : set using the corrector ( K ) at
10 o'clock.
To adjust the moon phase:
a) D isplay the full moon disc (the disc in which
the moon is fully visible and which corresponds to the 15th day of the lunar calendar).
b) F ind out the date of the last full moon. Press
the corrector push-piece K once for each
day elapsed from the date of the last full
moon to the date of the present day.
Moon phase
7. Setting the time :
If the present time is earlier than the time
shown on the watch (ten minutes past ten),
turn the hands counter-clockwise.
64
Mechanism on February 29th
65
Rotating presentation case
English
The Grande Complication Automatique is delivered
with a rotating presentation case equipped with
two batteries to ensure continuous rewinding
capability.
4 Accessories
Sounding board
The core of the system consists of two sounding
boards made from coniferous softwood, separated
by a few centimetres of space.
A bridge transmits the vibrations from the watch
to the sounding boards. The fold-down cover
maximises amplif ication of the gong strike by
exerting just the right amount of pressure on the
watch. The lid has a second function. When open
and facing the listener, it projects sound towards
the latter. In this way, the resonator is conceived
as a musical instrument in its own right.
Setting stylus
Important : the only instrument that you should
use to adjust your watch is the stylus delivered
with it.
66
67
Guarantee and care
5 Additional comments
English
All details concerning the guarantee and
instructions on caring for your watch are provided
in the enclosed certificate of origin and guarantee.
68
69
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF

advertisement