User Manual - Lindo Guitars
Care and Maintenance
How to put on a Guitar Strap
Setting up Your Electric Guitar
Connecting Your Guitar to an Amp
Built-in Digital Tuner
1 and 3-Year Warranties
an introduction to your guitar care
Lindo Guitars has developed this handbook to offer electric and acoustic guitar owners an informative guide to maintaining and caring for their instrument.
It is extremely important that you look after your guitar to ensure it lasts as long as possible and plays as it should for the duration of its lifetime.
The guide starts with simple procedures in cleaning and conditioning which helps to keep your guitar looking as good as new. We also explain how temperatures and climate can affect your guitar and how important it is that you store your instrument correctly.
This handbook also covers guitar tuning and general setup so that your guitar sounds great and is easy to play. We have also included guidance on connecting your guitar to an amplifier and guitar equalisation so that you can really expand your knowledge and experience on what your guitar can do!
Lastly, we cover routine procedures like changing your strings and adjusting hardware. We finish with an overview of our return policies and how to register your warranty.
We wish you all the best with your guitar and if we can be of any help, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Care & maintenance
• Wipe down the fretboard with a clean soft, dry cloth after every use.
Sweat, oil and dirt can build up very quickly. Regular cleaning will not only prolong the life of your strings by removing the dirt that makes them deteriorate but will make cleaning the frets much easier.
• Clean the frets each time you re-string. All that oil and dirt from playing build up on your fretboard. After you have removed the strings wipe the fretboard down with a soft cloth.
About once or twice a year we suggest conditioning the wood of the fretboard. This will help prevent the wood from cracking. There are various products on the market such as Dr Ducks Ax Wax or Jim
Dunlop Fretboard 65 Lemon Oil.
Humidity and Temperature Control
Guitars are made of wood which is affected by temperature and humidity. Acoustic guitars are made of thin/curved wood and the affects of the temperature and humidity are more severe when compared to a solid wood body electric guitar. A room at 22-25 degrees Celsius is ideal for storing your guitar. For an extensive overview on temperature and humidity, please refer to our warranty manual.
• Regularly check and tighten screws, strap buttons, output and preamp where applicable. This will stop any rattling and keep hardware secure.
• Never leave your guitar leaning on an amp or wall. We would recommend buying a guitar stand if you would like to keep your guitar safe on display.
how to put on a guitar strap
Only One Strap Button?
If your guitar has the traditional one guitar strap button this is so that the other end of the strap can be attached around the guitar headstock with a cord. This makes for a more evenly weighted and comfortable playing position.
Instructions for One Strap Button
Attach the bottom of the strap to the button on the bottom of the guitar.
Using the cord supplied with the strap, make a loop with the cord around the neck of the guitar just above the nut/base of the headstock and underneath the strings.
Secure knot back through the top strap eyelet.
If you need further help with putting on your guitar strap there are also plenty of videos on Youtube demonstrating the assembly.
You will need to tune your guitar on arrival. Standard guitar tuning is from the low E string (which is the thickest) to the high E string (which is the thinnest): E A D G B E
Stretch the Strings
Before you tune your guitar, it is important to stretch the strings.
Loosen all strings a little, but make sure there is still a good amount of tension to them.
One string at a time, place your thumb under the string just above the sound hole and gently pull it upwards by about 15mm. Do this 3 or 4 times and then move gradually up the fret board 4 frets at a time, again gently pulling the string upwards.
Once you have done this on all the strings, it’s time to tune the guitar!
Concentrating on one string at a time, tune the string gradually until you reach the required note.
Repeat the stretching process as per point number 2. You will notice that once you have stretched the string, it will go out of tune again.
This is perfectly normal and is not indicative of a fault with the strings.
Tune the string again and repeat the stretching process until the string stays in tune, which will take approximately 4 or 5 stretches. Please be gentle when doing this as claims cannot be accepted under your warranty for broken strings.
It is also important to change your guitar strings regularly as they are not made to last forever! When you play your guitar; sweat, moisture and your skins natural oils build up on the strings over time causing them to tarnish and weaken. This will also make the guitar sound quite dull. There is not a recommended amount of time you should have a set of strings on your guitar for. You will need to gauge this depending on how often you play and if (when you look at the strings close up) there is any tarnishing. If so, it’s time for a new set of strings! Professional musicians change their strings before every gig.
Setting up your ELECTRIC Guitar
Due to the many styles of playing and personal preference for string gauge, your guitar will not necessarily be set-up to your requirements.
Whilst it will tune and play perfectly straight out of the box, there are adjustments you can make to make it perfect for you. You may find that the action is a too light, or even too heavy. Your guitar has height adjustable saddles so you can adjust the action to suit your playing style. You will find this a great thing to learn as it will increase your technical guitar knowledge, it will also help to tailor the guitar to your playing style, making sure it sounds its absolute best.
Use the Allen keys provided to make these adjustments but be careful not to lower the height too much or you will cause “fret buzz”. The fretboard of your guitar has a radius to it and you should follow this radius when adjusting the saddle height, thus creating a curve with the strings. Remember, it’s only a subtle curve so to the naked eye the strings will look similar.
You can also move the saddles backwards and forwards and this will adjust the “intonation” of the guitar. The distance between the nut and the saddle has to be precise to allow each note to be at perfect pitch when fretted along the entire neck. You can check this easily with your guitar tuner. Working on one string at a time, tune the open string to pitch. Then finger the 12th fret. If your guitar is perfectly intonated then it will register as in tune on your tuner display. If it registers as sharp, then you will need to move the saddle back away from the fretboard thus increasing its length from the nut. If your tuner is showing as flat then you will need to move the saddles closer to the fretboard thus decreasing its length from the nut. Be sure to adjust the intonation after you have adjusted the saddle height as this can also affect the intonation.
In the future, you may want to change the strings to a lighter or heavier gauge, again depending on your playing style, so please bear in mind that you will also need to make fine adjustments in order to compensate for this.
The Truss Rod
The truss rod is located on the heel of the neck which is visible through the sound hole (on acoustic guitars) or via the guitar headstock.
Loosen the strings off and using an Allen key of the appropriate size you can turn this clockwise to tighten or anti clockwise to loosen a quarter of a turn at a time, depending on the curve you are trying to achieve.
Because guitars are mainly made from wood, they tend to flex and change shape over time which can cause problems with fret buzz, intonation and high action. The truss rod adds strength and provides adjustability, if required, to correct the aforementioned issues.
Ideally the neck should be relatively straight with a small amount of natural relief (bow) which establishes the ideal distance between the strings and frets (action). However, this is a personal preference depending on what is comfortable for you and the music you play!
Bow: When there is too much relief in the neck it can increase the distance between the strings and fingerboard (action). When the tension on the truss rod does not counteract the string tension, it will cause the head to pull up (hindering playability). This can also affect how the strings intonate up and down the neck. You can correct this by tightening the truss rod (clockwise).
Back bow: A back-bowed neck is where the truss rod is pulling the neck backwards and causing the strings to touch the frets. This will cause fret buzz, making the guitar unplayable. You can correct this by loosening the tension on the truss rod (anti- clockwise).
Connecting your Guitar to an Amp
If you have purchased an electric, bass, or an electro-acoustic guitar, then you may be connecting it to an amp. The first thing to bear in mind is that the amp should not be plugged into a multi socket or extension lead as this will cause unwanted electrical interference which will be amplified through the speaker.
A guitar cable that is not plugged into the guitar but is plugged into a live amp can act like an antenna and create interference. If your volume is turned right up then this interference could damage your speaker.
Remember not to sit right in front of your amplifier with your guitar pointing straight at the speaker as this will cause feedback. The pickups of your guitar are essentially microphones and if they are too close to an amplifier, the pickups amplify the noise coming from the amplifier speaker, creating a loop which manifests itself as a screeching noise.
Connecting Your Guitar to an Amp
Firstly make sure the power on the amplifier is off and before you turn on your amplifier, make sure that the volume and equalisation controls are turned down.
With the amplifier still turned off, connect a 1⁄4” jack cable to the amplifier input. Now connect the other end of the jack cable to the guitar’s output.
If you are playing an electric or bass guitar, you will want the guitar volume on full when you power on the amp. We don’t recommend turning an electro-acoustic volume knob up to full to achieve a balanced output. With both ends of the jack connected, you can now turn on the amp.
Next, gradually begin to increase the volume on the amplifier to reach the required level and adjust the EQ settings as needed.
What is Equalisation
Equalisation, or EQ, is the control and manipulation of sound frequencies. These frequency controls are mostly simplified by bass, middle and treble. The key to getting the best sound from your guitar and amplifier is to experiment. Your electro-acoustic guitar preamp is powered by a 9-volt battery, this is included but please ensure the battery is unwrapped and inserted in its compartment.
With all of the EQ controls turned to ‘0’ on your amplifier, you will have a very thin sound.
Start by adding a little bass - try a quarter of the way up to begin with.
This will sound quite muffled so you will then need to add some middle.
Adjust the middle to about a third - you will immediately notice that the sound is much brighter.
Now time to experiment! If you are playing rhythm guitar then you should be aiming for a warmer sound which is created by a little more bass and middle but with less accent on the higher treble frequencies.
If you are playing lead guitar solos, try some treble at about half way to enhance the higher frequencies and create a more ‘cutting’ tone.
Equaliser on Your Electro-Acoustic Guitar
You will notice that you have bass, middle and treble controls. On selected models you will also have a prescence control. The prescence control is an extra boost to the upper frequencies and should be used carefully. When these controls are set to ‘0’ - this indicates that no EQ is being added or taken away. These controls should only be used for slight enhancements in sound.
The volume control will need to be up full for maximum output from the pickup, but by dropping the volume back somewhat, you can also use this as a way to boost the volume independently from the amp if required for a lead/solo passage for example.
Auto Tuning Mode
On selected models of electro-acoustic guitar, the preamp has a built-in tuner. To operate this, press the “Power” button and the LCD will light up, this will also mute the output. It will default to “Auto” mode when powered up and this will be shown in the LCD. This means that the tuner will automatically detect the note you are trying to tune.
If you wish to use an alternative tuning then you can press the “Note” button multiple times to scroll through and select which note you would like to tune to. The LCD screen will show a needle moving backwards and forwards depending on model of preamp. Above the screen are 3
LED lights which indicate flat, in-tune or sharp.
Save Battery Life
Remember to turn the tuner off once you have finished with it as it doesn’t need to be on for the pickup and preamp to function. On selected preamp models, the LCD will automatically turn off after a period of inactivity.
Check out our Youtube channel for demonstrations and help on our whole range of preamps - www.youtube.com/lindoltd
Acoustic Guitar (Steel-Strung)
Remove the string by popping out the pin on the bridge or pull the strings through if the guitar has a ‘string-through’ bridge. Unwind the machine heads and discard the string.
Thread the ball end of a new string into the bridge pin hole and secure it with the pin. If the guitar has a ‘string-through’ bridge, a bridge pin will not apply.
Stretch the new string up the neck, into the nut and through the eye of the machine head of the guitar. Ensure you leave enough slack so that the string can be coiled around the peg at least 3 times. Sharply bend the string to help hold it in place on the peg.
Turn the machine head counter-clockwise to tighten the string. While you turn the machine head, apply light pressure to the pin to keep it from popping out as tension develops.
Pull the string with your thumb and index finger to stretch the new string (follow the section on page 2 regarding stretching strings), and then turn the machine head a bit to retighten it.
Use wire cutters to snip off the string excess, leaving as little as possible protruding from the string eyelet. You can now tune up your string!
Changed Your Mind?
You have 14 days from the receipt of your Lindo guitar where you can change your mind and decide to return the guitar – you are entitled to a full refund. You will need to cover the return postage costs and the item must be returned in the packaging it was originally sent in. It is your responsibility to make sure the guitar is not in danger of being damaged on return otherwise you will be liable for all related costs/claims.
1-Year and 3-Year Warranty
After the first 14 days of receiving your Lindo guitar, you will be covered by a 12-month repair or replace warranty and a 3-year warranty if you purchase one of our ‘select’ models. Your guitar is also covered against manufacturing faults for this period of time which starts on the day you receive your item.
All service of this instrument must be performed by Lindo Guitars.
Any service performed on this instrument by anyone other than Lindo
Guitars will terminate this warranty.
To register your warranty, visit - www.lindoguitars.com/warranty
If you have any other queries, please contact our Customer Support before returning any items to us.
+44 (0)117 300 9806 [email protected]
Excluded from warranty - (A) Any non-factory installed electronic components or hardware; (B) Damage or defects due to alteration, misuse, abuse, wear and tear, extremes of normal temperature, humidity or abnormal strain; (C) Accidental or intentional damage; (D) Damage in shipping; (E) The repair or replacement of any expendable maintenance items including but not limited to, strings or scratched pick guards; (F) Fret wear; (G) Plating on metal parts; (H) Cracking or damage to the finish; (I) Any damage from accessories;
(J) An instrument whose serial number has been defaced; (K) Tonal characteristics; (L) Any instrument purchased anywhere other than directly from Lindo Guitars or an authorised retailer.
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