350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546 Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632 www.ridetech.com Part # 13027197 70-74 Chrysler “E” Body Rear AirBar w/ Double Adjustable Bars Components: 1 90000611 1 90000612 1 90000608 1 90000609 2 90000599 2 90000615 1 90000644 1 90000610 2 90002085 2 90002090 4 90001589 4 99752004 14 90000552 4 90001591 4 99752006 2 90002084 2 90000144 2 90000155 2 90001624 2 90001617 4 90002067 8 99566002 8 99566003 4 99566004 2 70010694 Driver side upper bar mount Passenger side upper bar mount Driver side upper Shockwave mount Passenger side upper Shockwave mount Front lower bar mount Axle mounts Inner support plate Brake line spacer Upper bars – TT 7.375” (9 ½” C-C length) Lower bars – TT 21.25” Threaded Kevlar lined Heim end ¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end Aluminum spacer for Heim end Kevlar lined Heim end - Left Hand Thread ¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end - Left Hand Thread Wide Front Lower Heim Spacer Inner axle tab (Larger) Outer axle tab Lower billet Shockwave mount 5/8” shock studs w/ hardware Aluminum spacer for stud 9/16” SAE hex nut ( For U-bolts ) 9/16” SAE flat washer ( For U-bolts ) U-bolts - Axle mount Jig brackets for upper bar installation Hardware: (Part # 99010022) 2 1/2”-13 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt 2 1/2"-13 x 1 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt 4 1/2”-13 Gr. 5 Nylok nut 1 5/16”-18 x 1 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt 1 5/16” SAE flat washer 1 5/16” lock washer 2 1/2”-13 x 2 ¾” Gr.5 bolt 2 1/2”-13 Nylok nut 4 1/2” SAE flat washer 4 5/8”-11 x 4” Gr. 5 bolt 2 5/8”-11 Gr. 5 Nylok nut 6 5/8” SAE flat washer 6 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt 8 5/8”-11 Nylok jam nut 26 3/8”-16 x 1” thread forming bolt 8 3/8”-16 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt 6 3/8”-16 x 1” Gr. 5 bolt 4 3/8”-16 x 2 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt 18 3/8”-16 Nylok nut 48 3/8” SAE flat washers 2 3/8”-16 x ¾” Gr. 5 bolt 2 3/8”-16 nut Billet mount to axle bracket Billet mount to axle bracket Billet mount to axle bracket Brake line & spacer Brake line & spacer Brake line & spacer Upper Shockwave mount to body Upper Shockwave mount to body Upper Shockwave mount to body Shockwave to upper mount & front bar to body Shockwave to upper mount Shockwave to upper mount Upper & lower bars Upper & lower bars Shockwave and upper bar mounts to frame Lower front bar mount Inner support plate Inner support plate Inner support plate Shockwave and upper and lower bar mounts Upper bar installation jig Upper bar installation jig 1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle with the suspension hanging freely. 2. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs, front leaf spring mounts, shocks, tail pipes, bump stops, sway bar and pinion snubber. Refer to the factory service manual for proper disassemble procedures. Save the hardware for the bump stops and pinion snubber, they will be reused. 3. Place the upper bar mount up to the body. It will align off of the two sway bar mount holes and the front bump stop mount hole. 4. Mark and drill the remaining 6 holes in the frame with a 5/16” bit. The 3 holes in the body will be drilled with a 3/8” bit. Six 3/8” x 1” thread forming bolts and flat washers will secure the mount to the frame. 5. On the driver side you will have to temporarily remove the brake line body mount. 6. The inner support plate will bolt to the floor pan on the inside of the car using six 3/8” x 1” bolts, Nyloks and flat washers. The remaining 4 holes will need to be drill and will use 3/8” x 2 ¼” bolts, Nyloks and flat washers. 7. Using the supplied U-bolts, fasten the lower axle bracket to the factory leaf spring pad. 8. Bolt the lower Billet Shockwave mount to the axle bracket using a ½” bolts and Nyloc nuts. Position the mount in the middle two holes. Note: It is easier to tighten these nuts before installing the lower bar. 9. Bolt the new lower bar frame mount to the body using 3/8” x 1 ¼” bolts, Nyloc nuts and flat washers. 10. Attach the one end of the lower bar to the frame mount using a 5/8” x 4” bolt and Nyloc jam nut, it uses the wide spacer(90002084) on the outside with a narrow (90000552) on the inside. The other end will attach to the axle mount using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt and Nyloc jam nut with a narrow spacer (90000552) on each side. Note: Do not tighten these nuts yet. They must be tightened at ride height. 11. Check the length of the upper bar; it should be 9.50” C-C. Bolt the axle tabs to the setting jig as specified on the next page. Then place the other end into the cradle. Both ends use a 5/8” x 2 3/4" and should not be fully tightened yet. For now just the let axle tabs sit on the axle. 12. Before welding the tabs to the axle pinion angle must be set; the axle must be centered between the rails; and the axle must be raised to ride height. One trick to help maintain these setting is to tack weld a temporary 8 ½” spacer between the body and the axle. 13. Tack-weld the tabs to the axle then recheck alignment. After removing the bar jig the tabs can be welded solid. To avoid warping the axle, weld 1” at a time and skip around. Upper Bar Installation Jig This jig has been supplied to aid in the installation of the upper 4 link bar. It can be temporarily used to properly align, locate and weld the tabs onto the axle. It will also ensure that the mounting bolts are parallel to the ground. Follow the diagram below to set the jig to the same length as the upper bar, use the 3/8” x 3/4” bolt and nuts to set the length. Position the axle at ride height. Center the axle left to right between the quarter panels. Set pinion angle. Bolt one end of the jig to the cradle using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt. Using another 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt, fasten the axle tabs to the other end. The tabs must be bolted to the outside of the jig. The Taller Tab goes to the Inside of the car with the Shorter Tab on the Outside, both tabs have the long side pointing to the front of the car. Swing the bar down letting the tabs rest onto the axle. Trim the brackets as necessary to minimize the gap to be welded. Check pinion angle, ride height and axle center. Tack-weld the tabs in place. Remove jig and install upper bar. Repeat this process for the other side. Recheck pinion angle, ride height and axle center. (Sound familiar?) After the tabs have been tack welded on both sides, remove the upper bars to avoid melting the rubber bushings. Let the axle drop down for better access to the tabs. Lay 1” welds on the inside and outside of the tabs. Skip around from one side to the other to avoid overheating the tube. Item # Description 1. Upper bar 2. 3/4”-16 jam nut 3. Heim end 4. Alignment jig 5. Aluminum spacer 6. 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” bolt 7. 3/8”-16 nut 8. 3/8”-16 x 3/4" bolt 14. How do you set the pinion angle? On a singlepiece shaft you want to set it up where a line drawn through the center of the engine crankshaft or output shaft of the transmission and a line drawn through the center of the pinion are parallel to each other but not the same line. A simple way to do this is to place a digital angle finder or dial level on the front face of the lower engine pulley or harmonic balancer. This will give you a reading that is 90 degrees to the crank or output shaft unless you have real problems with your balancer. At the other end, you can place the same level or angle finder against the front face of the pinion yoke that is also at 90 degrees to the centerline. If you rotate the yoke up or down so both angles match, you have perfect alignment. Road testing will tell you if you have it right. If you accelerate and you get or increase a vibration, then the pinion yoke is too HIGH. Rotate it downward in small increments of a degree or two until the problem goes away. If you get or increase a vibration when decelerating, then the pinion yoke is too LOW. Rotate it upward to correct it. 15. Once pinion angle, axle center and ride height are double-checked the tabs can be tack-welded to the axle. Then remove the bar (to avoid frying the bushings) and weld the tabs solid. Weld 1” at a time and skip around to avoid warping the axle. Reattach the bar to the axle. 16. Attach the upper Shockwave mount to the factory upper shock mount using a ½” x 2 ¾” bolt, Nyloc nut, and flat washers. Swing the bracket out to the frame rail to mark and drill 5 holes in the frame with a 5/16” bit. Fasten with 3/8” x 1” thread forming bolts and flat washers. 17. Apply thread sealant to a 90 degree air fitting and screw it into the top of the Shockwave. These pictures show the 9000 series Shockwave, but this kit will use the 7000 series. 18. Screw the lower shock stud into the billet mount. Slide the Shockwave over the stud with a large washer on each side of the bushing. Secure the unit with the Nyloc nut supplied with the kit. 19. Insert a 5/8” x 4” bolt through the upper mount and Shockwave eye. There should be a 5/8”ID Spacers on each side of the Shock bearing and a washer next to the head of the bolt. Fasten the assembly with a 5/8” Nyloc nut. 20. All of the bar mounts can now be tightened. 21. Remove the 8 ½” spacer. 22. Ride height on this unit is 13”, should be around 75 psi, but will vary to vehicle weight and driver preference. 23. To remount the brake line body mount the 1” spacer is require to allow clearance with the upper bar mount. A longer 5/16” x 1 ¾” bolt, flat washer and lock washer are also supplied. 24. Double-check to make sure nothing can rub the Shockwave at any point through full suspension travel. Allowing the air spring to rub will cause failure and is not a warrantable situation. 350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546 Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632 www.ridetech.com Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in? Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation. The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to interfacing with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two planes to properly distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll, rather than cut, threads into the vehicle structure. Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision damage in these areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in severe racing applications with sticky racing slicks and high speed corners. In these cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar components into your vehicle. Even in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire AirBar assembly first [including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”.120” ] than the .188” thick AirBar brackets. If you burn through the vehicle sheet metal structure you may end up with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to weld it. The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a welding kind of guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and equipment to do it. In that case…weld away with our blessing!
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