Part # 13027197 70-74 Chrysler “E” Body Rear AirBar

Part # 13027197 70-74 Chrysler “E” Body Rear AirBar
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
Part # 13027197
70-74 Chrysler “E” Body Rear AirBar
w/ Double Adjustable Bars
Driver side upper bar mount
Passenger side upper bar mount
Driver side upper Shockwave mount
Passenger side upper Shockwave mount
Front lower bar mount
Axle mounts
Inner support plate
Brake line spacer
Upper bars – TT 7.375” (9 ½” C-C length)
Lower bars – TT 21.25”
Threaded Kevlar lined Heim end
¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end
Aluminum spacer for Heim end
Kevlar lined Heim end - Left Hand Thread
¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end - Left Hand Thread
Wide Front Lower Heim Spacer
Inner axle tab (Larger)
Outer axle tab
Lower billet Shockwave mount
5/8” shock studs w/ hardware
Aluminum spacer for stud
9/16” SAE hex nut ( For U-bolts )
9/16” SAE flat washer ( For U-bolts )
U-bolts - Axle mount
Jig brackets for upper bar installation
Hardware: (Part # 99010022)
1/2”-13 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt
1/2"-13 x 1 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt
1/2”-13 Gr. 5 Nylok nut
5/16”-18 x 1 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt
5/16” SAE flat washer
5/16” lock washer
1/2”-13 x 2 ¾” Gr.5 bolt
1/2”-13 Nylok nut
1/2” SAE flat washer
5/8”-11 x 4” Gr. 5 bolt
5/8”-11 Gr. 5 Nylok nut
5/8” SAE flat washer
5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt
5/8”-11 Nylok jam nut
3/8”-16 x 1” thread forming bolt
3/8”-16 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt
3/8”-16 x 1” Gr. 5 bolt
3/8”-16 x 2 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt
3/8”-16 Nylok nut
3/8” SAE flat washers
3/8”-16 x ¾” Gr. 5 bolt
3/8”-16 nut
Billet mount to axle bracket
Billet mount to axle bracket
Billet mount to axle bracket
Brake line & spacer
Brake line & spacer
Brake line & spacer
Upper Shockwave mount to body
Upper Shockwave mount to body
Upper Shockwave mount to body
Shockwave to upper mount & front bar to body
Shockwave to upper mount
Shockwave to upper mount
Upper & lower bars
Upper & lower bars
Shockwave and upper bar mounts to frame
Lower front bar mount
Inner support plate
Inner support plate
Inner support plate
Shockwave and upper and lower bar mounts
Upper bar installation jig
Upper bar installation jig
1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
with the suspension hanging freely.
2. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs, front leaf spring mounts, shocks, tail pipes, bump
stops, sway bar and pinion snubber. Refer to the factory service manual for proper disassemble
procedures. Save the hardware for the bump stops and pinion snubber, they will be reused.
3. Place the upper bar mount up to
the body. It will align off of the two
sway bar mount holes and the front
bump stop mount hole.
4. Mark and drill the remaining 6
holes in the frame with a 5/16” bit.
The 3 holes in the body will be drilled
with a 3/8” bit. Six 3/8” x 1” thread
forming bolts and flat washers will
secure the mount to the frame.
5. On the driver side you will have to
temporarily remove the brake line
body mount.
6. The inner support plate will bolt to
the floor pan on the inside of the car
using six 3/8” x 1” bolts, Nyloks and
flat washers. The remaining 4 holes
will need to be drill and will use 3/8” x
2 ¼” bolts, Nyloks and flat washers.
7. Using the supplied U-bolts, fasten
the lower axle bracket to the factory
leaf spring pad.
8. Bolt the lower Billet Shockwave
mount to the axle bracket using a ½”
bolts and Nyloc nuts. Position the
mount in the middle two holes.
Note: It is easier to tighten these
nuts before installing the lower bar.
9. Bolt the new lower bar frame
mount to the body using 3/8” x 1 ¼”
bolts, Nyloc nuts and flat washers.
10. Attach the one end of the lower
bar to the frame mount using a 5/8” x
4” bolt and Nyloc jam nut, it uses the
wide spacer(90002084) on the
outside with a narrow (90000552) on
the inside. The other end will attach
to the axle mount using a 5/8” x 2 ¾”
bolt and Nyloc jam nut with a narrow
spacer (90000552) on each side.
Note: Do not tighten these nuts yet.
They must be tightened at ride
11. Check the length of the upper
bar; it should be 9.50” C-C. Bolt the
axle tabs to the setting jig as
specified on the next page. Then
place the other end into the cradle.
Both ends use a 5/8” x 2 3/4" and
should not be fully tightened yet. For
now just the let axle tabs sit on the
12. Before welding the tabs to the
axle pinion angle must be set; the
axle must be centered between the
rails; and the axle must be raised to
ride height. One trick to help
maintain these setting is to tack weld
a temporary 8 ½” spacer between
the body and the axle.
13. Tack-weld the tabs to the axle
then recheck alignment. After
removing the bar jig the tabs can be
welded solid. To avoid warping the
axle, weld 1” at a time and skip
Upper Bar Installation Jig
This jig has been supplied to aid in the installation of the upper 4 link bar. It can be
temporarily used to properly align, locate and weld the tabs onto the axle. It will also ensure
that the mounting bolts are parallel to the ground.
Follow the diagram below to set the jig to the same length as the upper bar, use the 3/8” x 3/4”
bolt and nuts to set the length.
Position the axle at ride height. Center the axle left to right between the quarter panels. Set
pinion angle.
Bolt one end of the jig to the cradle using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt.
Using another 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt, fasten the axle tabs to the other end. The tabs must be bolted
to the outside of the jig. The Taller Tab goes to the Inside of the car with the Shorter Tab on
the Outside, both tabs have the long side pointing to the front of the car.
Swing the bar down letting the tabs rest onto the axle. Trim the brackets as necessary to
minimize the gap to be welded.
Check pinion angle, ride height and axle center. Tack-weld the tabs in place.
Remove jig and install upper bar.
Repeat this process for the other side.
Recheck pinion angle, ride height and axle center. (Sound familiar?)
After the tabs have been tack welded on both sides, remove the upper bars to avoid melting
the rubber bushings. Let the axle drop down for better access to the tabs. Lay 1” welds on the
inside and outside of the tabs. Skip around from one side to the other to avoid overheating
the tube.
Item # Description
Upper bar
3/4”-16 jam nut
Heim end
Alignment jig
Aluminum spacer
5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” bolt
3/8”-16 nut
3/8”-16 x 3/4" bolt
14. How do you set the
pinion angle? On a singlepiece shaft you want to set it
up where a line drawn
through the center of the
engine crankshaft or output
shaft of the transmission and
a line drawn through the
center of the pinion are
parallel to each other but not
the same line.
A simple way to do this is
to place a digital angle finder
or dial level on the front face
of the lower engine pulley or
harmonic balancer. This will
give you a reading that is 90
degrees to the crank or
output shaft unless you have
real problems with your
balancer. At the other end,
you can place the same level
or angle finder against the
front face of the pinion yoke
that is also at 90 degrees to
the centerline. If you rotate
the yoke up or down so both
angles match, you have
perfect alignment.
Road testing will tell you if
you have it right. If you
accelerate and you get or
increase a vibration, then the
pinion yoke is too HIGH.
Rotate it downward in small
increments of a degree or
two until the problem goes
away. If you get or increase
a vibration when
decelerating, then the pinion
yoke is too LOW. Rotate it
upward to correct it.
15. Once pinion angle, axle center
and ride height are double-checked
the tabs can be tack-welded to the
axle. Then remove the bar (to avoid
frying the bushings) and weld the
tabs solid. Weld 1” at a time and skip
around to avoid warping the axle.
Reattach the bar to the axle.
16. Attach the upper Shockwave
mount to the factory upper shock
mount using a ½” x 2 ¾” bolt, Nyloc
nut, and flat washers. Swing the
bracket out to the frame rail to mark
and drill 5 holes in the frame with a
5/16” bit. Fasten with 3/8” x 1” thread
forming bolts and flat washers.
17. Apply thread sealant to a 90
degree air fitting and screw it into the
top of the Shockwave. These
pictures show the 9000 series
Shockwave, but this kit will use the
7000 series.
18. Screw the lower shock stud into
the billet mount. Slide the
Shockwave over the stud with a large
washer on each side of the bushing.
Secure the unit with the Nyloc nut
supplied with the kit.
19. Insert a 5/8” x 4” bolt through the
upper mount and Shockwave eye.
There should be a 5/8”ID Spacers on
each side of the Shock bearing and a
washer next to the head of the bolt.
Fasten the assembly with a 5/8”
Nyloc nut.
20. All of the bar mounts can now be
21. Remove the 8 ½” spacer.
22. Ride height on this unit is 13”,
should be around 75 psi, but will vary
to vehicle weight and driver
23. To remount the brake line body
mount the 1” spacer is require to
allow clearance with the upper bar
mount. A longer 5/16” x 1 ¾” bolt, flat
washer and lock washer are also
24. Double-check to make sure
nothing can rub the Shockwave at
any point through full suspension
travel. Allowing the air spring to
rub will cause failure and is not a
warrantable situation.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in?
Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation.
The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to
interfacing with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two
planes to properly distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll,
rather than cut, threads into the vehicle structure.
Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision
damage in these areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in
severe racing applications with sticky racing slicks and high speed corners. In these
cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar components into your vehicle. Even
in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire AirBar assembly first
[including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your
installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”.120” ] than the .188” thick AirBar brackets. If you burn through the vehicle sheet metal
structure you may end up with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to
weld it.
The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a
welding kind of guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and
equipment to do it. In that case…weld away with our blessing!
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