Here - Singer
You are about to discover the wonderful pleasure of sewing with your new
Stylist* Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER. We know you are eager to
| get started on a sewing project . . . but we urge you to become familiar with
this book before you begin. It is designed to help you get the benefit of all
the capabilities of your machine. Especially, we recommend that you keep
| the following points in mind :
| e Choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric—if either is the
wrong size or type, you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or
faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table on page 11
will help you make a perfect choice.
e Make sure that the needle is not bent or blunt. If the needle is
damaged—or improperly inserted in the machine—it can cause
| skipped stitches. See page 9 for instructions.
e Follow the instructions on page 15 for threading the machine. Note
particularly the directions for threading the tension discs.
e thread properly when you insert a wound bobbin. Page 14
u how to do this perfectly.
: amiliar with the instructions for regulating stitch length
8), presser-foot pressure (page 19), and thread tension
0). Take advantage of the capability of your sewing machine!
2 machine regularly, as instructed on page 61. Don't allow
; © accumulate in the bobbin case area—they can cause
cessive noise.
\ |
t expert, dependable SINGER* service is always
Er sewing machine should require maintenance or
2: to call your Singer Sewing Center or Authorized
You will find the number listed under SINGER
our telephone book.
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Copyright © 1978 THE SINGER СОМ
Getting to Know Your SINGER” Sewing Machine
Principal Parts—And What They Do
Accessories—And When to Use Them
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Getting Ready to Sew ........1.10210200 0044 aa ea ea a ee
Preliminary Steps
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Choosing Needle and Thread ............... cc...
Threading Your SewingMachine ..........................
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Sewing a Seam
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Basic Zig-Zag Patterns 2.224020 4 424 4 4 44 4 4 4 4 a a ee naaa
Flexi-Stitch" Patterns
Twin-Needle Stitching
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Threading the Needle
Buttons and Buttonholes
Sewing the Professional Way
Sewing Knitand Stretch Fabrics
Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics
Construction Details
Decorative Touches
Tubular Bed Sewing
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Keeping Up Appearances 000 4 a aa a aa A4 aa
Caring For Your Machine
Cleaning the Machine
Removing Bobbin Case, Face Plate and Bulb
Performance Checklist
Special Accessories for Special Jobs
Your Personal Measurement Chart
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and what they do
Bobbin-Winder Tension Disc regulates thread tension for bobbin
Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all-
purpose setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure,
and for darning.
Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.
Presser-Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and
lower presser foot. High-lift position allows easy placement of bulky
. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience.
. Needle Clamp holds single and twin needles and is designed to
eliminate the possibility of inserting needle backwards.
. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. The feet snap off for quick
. Needle Plate lifts out for easy removal. Guidelines on right and left
sides extend to slide plate to help you keep seams straight.
Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.
Slide Plate opens for easy removal and replacement of the bobbin, and
raises and lowers the pin that holds the needle plate in place.
Extension Table lets you convert the machine for either flat or tubular
bed sewing.
Extension Table Release Push Button unlocks the extension table.
Sewing Light illuminates the sewing area.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial sets the machine for F/exi-Stitch pattern
sewing and varies the balance of F/exi-Stitch patterns in order to obtain
desired pattern appearance.
Dial must be set in O (off) position when not in use.
Hand Wheel positions take-up lever and needle. Always turn it
toward you.
Bobbin Winder lets you fill the bobbin with thread quickly and easily.
Spool Holder with Horizontal Pin holds thread spools of various
sizes. Holder lets thread unwind without tug or drag.
Snap-in Thread Guide Post provides smooth flow of thread from
spool holder to tension discs. |
Needle-Thread Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for
your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in
duplicating settings.
Needle-Thread Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial,
regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread.
Pattern Selector Dial lets you select a variety of practical and decor-
ative zig-zag and F/exi- Stitch patterns.
Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and posit-
ions needle for straight stitching. Use | setting for straight stitching.
Stitch Length Selector and Buttonhole Dial allows for a variety of
stitch lengths, including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special
settings for buttonholing and Flexi- Stitch pattern sewing.
Reverse-Stitch Push Button has two separate functions. It lets you
reverse stitching direction and balance buttonhole stitch density.
Needle-Position Dial places needle in either left, center or right
stitching position. Use center position for straight stitching.
26. Hand Wheel Disc engages hand
wheel to sewing mechanism. Dis-
engage hand wheel for bobbin wind-
i by pressing & bobbin symbol on
27. Transparent Bobbin shows thread
supply . . . is easily removed for
bobbin winding.
28. Power and Light Switch turns on
the power and the sewing light
29. Electrical Connections and
Speed Controller are designed for
convenience and safety.
See instructions for connecting machine
and operating machine and controller on
page 10.
accessories . .. and when to use them
The accessories that come with your Stylist sewing machine are designed to
help you do many kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. Additional acces-
sories, listed on page 66 at the back of this instruction book, are available
for purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center.
|| |
General-Purpose Needle Plate
— {№ 4
| Straight-
…” Stitch
Straight-Stitch Needle Plate
Feed-Cover Needle Plate
The general-purpose foot and the general-
purpose needle plate are in place on the
machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these
fittings can be used for either straight or
zig-zag stitching. Always use them to-
gether when alternating between straight
and zig-zag stitching.
The straight-stitch foot and the straight
stitch needle plate are used when your
fabric or sewing procedure requires close
Especially useful for:
e Precision stitching of curved and
scalloped edges, topstitching, edge
stitching etc.
» Stitching delicate or spongy fabrics,
synthetics, and knits.
The feed-cover needle plate replaces the
general-purpose needle plate (or straight
stitch needle plate) when fabric feeding
is not desired. Use it for button sewing
(page 34) and free-motion darning
(page 60).
The special-purpose foot is used with the
general-purpose needle plate for all kinds
of decorative zig-zag stitching. Use it for:
» Zig-zag satin stitching
Ornamental stitching with Flexi-Stitch
e Appliqué
* Twin-needle stitching
The buttonhole foot is used with the
general-purpose needle plate to make
four-step, bar-tack buttonholes in fabrics
of light and medium weight. For instruc-
tions, see page 36.
The zipper foot is used to place stitching
close to a raised edge. Thus, it is as useful
for corded seams and tubular cording as
it is for zipper insertion (page 46). It can
be fitted to either the right or the left side
of the needle and may be used with the
straight-stitch or general-purpose needle
The blindstitch hem guide is used with
the general-purpose foot to position the
hem fold for blindstitch hemming (page
48). To attach, simply loosen presser-foot
screw and slip guide between screw and
presser-foot shank. Position guide so that
it clears both slide plate and presser-foot
toe. Tighten screw.
The presser feet that are supplied with
your machine snap on and off a common
shank. To change the foot:
1. Raise presser-foot lifter and turn hand
wheel toward you to raise needle to its
highest position.
2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as
far as it will go) and then snap down to
remove the foot.
3. Center the new presser foot under the
shank and lower the presser-foot lifter
so that the shank fits over the presser-
foot pin.
4. Press down on presser-foot screw until
foot snaps into place.
To remove the complete foot (with
shank), as for free-motion darning or
embroidery, see page 60, loosen the
presser-foot screw and remove shank and
foot together.
1. Raise needle to its highest position and
raise the presser-foot lifter (you do not
need to remove the presser foot).
2. Open slide plate with downward finger
pressure. Draw plate toward you, open-
ing it a/l the way to raise the locking pin
that holds the needle plate in place.
3. Place thumb under right side of needle
plate; lift and withdraw plate to the
4. Insert new needle plate under locking
pin and over positioning pin.
5. Close slide plate to lower locking pin
and secure the needle plate.
Transparent, drop-in bobbin, # 172336,
shows thread supply at a glance.
e Style # 2020 needles for all-purpose
e Style # 2045 ball-point (yellow band)
needle for sewing knits and stretch
o Style # 2025 twin needle for decor-
ative twin-needle stitching.
machine has been designed to obtain
best results with SINGER needles. You
should follow the recommendations in
this instruction book and on the needle
package for correct style and size of needle
for different types and weights of fabrics.
The needle clamp is designed so that the
needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the needle to the back. To change
the needle:
1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and re-
move needle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the
flat side of the needle to the back;
push it up as far as it will go.
3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
The spool holders hold spools of various
sizes in position on the horizontal spool
pin. Because the spool does not turn,
thread unwinds without tug or drag.
The secondary detachable spool pin is
used for twin-needle stitching.
preliminary steps
Before plugging in your machine, be sure
that the voltage and number of cycles
indicated on the plate under the hand
wheel conform to your electrical power
Push the machine plug into the receptacle
at the right end of the machine bed. Then
connect the power-line plug to your
electrical outlet.
To turn on both machine and sewing
light, press power and light switch to
ON position (red bar on switch will be
visible). To turn off machine and light,
press switch at red bar to OFF position.
CAUTION: We recommend that you
turn off the power and light switch before
changing needles, presser feet, and needle
plates and when leaving the machine
unattended. This eliminates the possibility
of starting the machine by accidently
pushing the speed controller.
To run the machine, press the speed
controller. The harder you press, the
faster the machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing,
remove pressure from speed controller.
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being
stitched. The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread selection.
Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and
type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
t Use with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.
threading your
sewing machine
Like all sewing machines that produce
what is called a “lockstitch™, your Stylist
sewing machine sews with two threads.
The upper thread comes from the spool
and is threaded through the eye of the
needle. The lower thread comes from the
bobbin, the small transparent spool that
you wind using the machine. It is best to
wind the bobbin before threading the
Spool Holders
е Remove spool holder from spindle by
sliding it to the left.
Place spool of thread on horizontal
spool pin. If spool being used has a
retaining slit, this should be placed
against the spool cushion on the right.
\ e Select correct spool holder according
= to type and diameter of the end of the
spool being used. The diameter of the
end of the spool holder should always
be larger than that of the spool itself.
Press Here |
for Bobbin Winding e Press spool holder firmly against spool.
A = Winding the Bobbin
>, À e Press hand wheel disc at bobbin
se у symbol 623
$ 7 e Open slide plate. Draw plate toward
| vou to make bobbin accessible.
e Lift out the bobbin and close slide plate
to make sure needle plate is secure
Removing Bobbin while winding.
es Place spool of thread on spool pin.
Snap thread in the thread guide post
then lead thread around bobbin winder
tension disc, as illustrated above.
Pass thread, from the inside, through
hole in bobbin and place bobbin on
Push bobbin and spindle to the right
to engage the bobbin winder. Hold
thread end as shown and start the
machine, winding at moderate speed.
Cut off thread end after a few coils
have been wound on the bobbin.
When required amount of thread has
been wound (winding will stop when
bobbin is full), stop machine. Cut con-
necting thread.
Push bobbin and spindle toward the
left to disengage bobbin winder. Re-
move bobbin.
+ Press hand wheel disc for sewing.
Press Here
for Sewing
1. Open slide plate. Hold bobbin so that
thread unwinds in direction shown, and
put bobbin in bobbin case.
2. Pull thread into notch, draw it under
tension spring and back into slot.
3. Draw about three inches of thread
diagonally across the bobbin.
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to
enter slot between the needle plate and
slide plate.
Threading the Needle
1. Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever
to its highest position, and raise presser
foot to release the tension discs.
2. Place spool of thread on spool holder
and lead thread through all points as
shown, making sure to:
* Hold thread as illustrated while guiding
thread into tension discs.
es Thread tension discs as illustrated.
» Thread take-up lever from back to front,
guiding thread down over top of lever
and then up into eyelet.
es Thread needle from front to back,
drawing about four inches (10 cms) of
thread through eye of needle.
Now that you have wound the bobbin and
threaded the needle, you will need to raise
the bobbin thread through the needle hole
in the needle plate.
1. Hold needle thread lightly with left
hand and turn hand wheel slowly
toward you so that needle enters hole
in needle plate.
2. Continue turning hand wheel and hold-
ing needle thread until needle rises.
Tighten your hold on the needle thread
and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.
3. Open the loop with your fingers.
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads
under presser foot, and draw to back of
... You are now ready to sew
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
* Pattern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position: À
Stitch Width: :
e Stitch Length: To suit fabric
e Straight Stitch Needle Plate or
General Purpose Needle Plate
e Straight Stitch Footor
General Purpose Foot
Before you move the selectors to set your
sewing machine for straight stitching,
turn the hand wheel toward you until the
needle is above the needle plate.
Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to off
position O.
» Move needle position selector to
center Y.
* Setstitch width selector on
Best results will be obtained if you use
the straight-stitch foot and needle plate.
However, the general-purpose foot and
needle plate may also be used.
es Place needle and bobbin threads under
presser foot and draw to back of
» Position the needle in the fabric where
stitching should start.
es Lower the presser foot and start the
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of
fabrics adjust stitch length, pressure and
thread tension as instructed on the
following pages.
For information on straight stretch stitch-
ing turn to page 39.
adjusting selectors for your fabric
The stitch length selector controls the
length of stitches. The numbers around
the edge of the selector dial express stitch
length in stitches per inch; the higher the
number, the shorter the stitch. Generally,
shorter stitches are best for lightweight
fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. The
FINE area is used for the adjustment of
zig-zag satin stitching.
Setting Selector
* Turn dial so that the stitch length
desired is positioned under the arrow-
head W onthe control panel.
* To shorten the stitch, turn the dial
clockwise to a higher number.
» To /engthen the stitch, turn the dial
counterclockwise to a lower number.
For reverse stitching, press the reverse-
stitch push button (located in the center
of the dial) in as far as it will go and hold
in place (the button can be pushed in
while the machine is sewing). Release
pressure on the push button to return to
forward stitching.
(For detailed instructions on adjusting
the stitch length for zig-zag satin stitching,
see page 28.)
The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the
fabric. Correct pressure is important because it enables the fabric to feed
smoothly and evenly, without being marred. The NORM (normal) setting
is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of
fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings,
above and below NORM (normal), are also provided. When you need extra
control, regulate the setting for heavier or lighter pressure to suit the fabric
being sewn.
When darning without an embroidery hoop, set the dial at the lowest
setting, # . See page 59 for instructions.
Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.
es To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward MAX
» To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM (normal) toward +.
* For darning, set dialon #f .
Correct tension is important because too
much or too little will weaken your seams
or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a
test sample with the fabric and thread you
==} Je plan to use and examine it. A perfect
stitch will have the needle and bobbin
threads locked between the two layers of
fabric with no loops on top or bottom and
no puckers.
Needle-Thread Tension
The tension dial regulates the degree of
tension on your needle thread. Set it
according to the type of thread and fabric
you use. The numbers on the dial
eliminate guesswork in duplicating set-
If the stitches in your test sample look
loose, increase needle-thread tension. If
the fabric puckers, decrease tension.
2345 * To increase tension, turn dial to
NONE higher number.
ee To decrease tension, turn dial to
lower number.
sewing a seam
1. Set stitch length selector for desired
number of stitches per inch.
2. With presser foot up, align fabric with
appropriate seam guideline on needle
plate (as described below). Position
needle in fabric about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm)
from the back edge.
3. Lower presser foot. Backstitch to the
edge of the fabric for reinforcement by
pushing in the reverse-stitch push
button located in the center of the
stitch length selector dial. Hold the
button until the stitches reach almost
the edge of the fabric and then release
for forward stitching.
As you stitch, use one of the numbered
lines on the needle plate as a guide for
keeping the seams straight. Numbers
indicate distance, in eighths of an inch
from the needle. If you want a 5/8 inch
(1.5 ст) seam, for example, keep the
right-hand edge of your fabric on the
number 5 guideline.
To turn a square corner 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
from the fabric edge, you need not
measure or mark the seam. Simply use the
crosslines on the slide plate.
* Line up your fabric with right or left
guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch
seam, slowing speed as you approach
e Stop stitching, with the needle down,
when the bottom edge of the fabric
reaches the cornering crosslines on the
slide plate.
* Raise presser foot and turn fabric on
needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric
in line with guideline 5.
« Lower the presser foot and stitch in
new direction.
Pin basting is a time-saver and can be
used when you sew easy-to-handle
fabric. Use fine pins and place them:
«+ On top of the fabric (never on the
underside in contact with the feed).
* Atright angles to the stitching line.
» Just nipping into the fabric at the
stitching line (never extending under
both sides of the presser foot).
Most fabrics need only to be guided in
front of the presser foot. Some fabrics,
however, require support while being
stitched. Filmy sheers, panné velvet, and
tricots, for example, need to be held taut
in front and back of the presser foot while
being sewn.
For information on sewing knit and
stretch fabrics with zig-zag stitching,
refer to page 38.
CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while
you are stitching as this may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
1. Use a short stitch length for elasticity
and strength. For example, if you use 12
stitches per inch for straight seams,
select 15 to 20 per inch to stitch curved
seams in the same fabric.
2. For the greatest accuracy, use the
straight-stitch foot and needle plate.
Stitch to the fabric edge. Backstitch
1/2 inch (1 cm) to reinforce the end of
the seam by pushing in the reverse-stitch
push button and then releasing.
1. Turn hand wheel toward you to bring
needle to its highest point.
2. Raise presser foot and remove fabric by
drawing it to the back and left.
3. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of
presser bar.
The zig-zag stitches built in to your sewing machine include basic zig-zag
patterns and F/exi-Stitch patterns. Basic zig-zag patterns and their
selector settings are shown below; information on Flex/-Stitch patterns
starts on page 29. You will find instructions for both decorative and
practical uses of these patterns in the section called “Sewing the Profes-
sional Way" beginning on page 38.
basic zig-zag patterns
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e Turn Flexi-Stitch pattern dial to off
setting O.
* Set pattern selector for stitch desired.
s Adjust stitch length, stitch placement,
stitch width and needle-thread tension
as instructed on following pages.
Set the stitch width selector on : before |
moving the stitch pattern selector. Fe Zaa
ee BB A OE
| Anm
SELECTOR For Blindstitch
For Plain Zig-Zag Stitching
* Move dial to ==
For Blindstitching UT i 1
* Movedialto 53 - ELLO
. . a For Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag
For Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag LU
e Move dialto ER Setting Pattern Selector
Tin =!
® —{—# * 1H
Before moving selector, make sure stitch
length dial is OFF buttonhole settings
and needle is above fabric
To produce a zig-zag stitch pattern, move
the stitch width selector dial from the
straight-stitch setting ! to any zig-zag
setting to the right. Stitch width is in-
creased as the dial is moved to the right.
Before moving selector, make sure stitch
length dial is OFF buttonhole settings
and needle is above fabric
Most of your basic zig-zag stitching will
be done in center € $ ) needle position.
Left ( Y ) and right ( | ) settings are
used for special stitch placement, as in
button sewing.
Basic zig-zag stitching requires less
needle-thread tension than straight stitch-
ing. Make a test sample with the fabric
and thread you plan to use so that you can
adjust the tension properly. The stitches
should lie flat against the fabric without
causing the fabric to pucker.
If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is
puckered, lower the needle-thread tension
by turning the dial to a lower number.
Any stitch length setting from 6 to 25
will give you an open zig-zag stitch of
the basic zig-zag stitch pattern you select.
The lower the number, the more open, or
farther apart, your stitches will be. The
FINE stitch area, between 0 and 25 on the
dial 1s used for adjusting zig-zag satin
stitching (see next page for specific in-
Stitch Length Dial
satin stitching
Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced
zig-zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-
like surface, is useful for both practical and
decorative work.
When you wish to produce a satin stitch,
for appliqué or bar tacks, for example,
make a test sample first so that you can
adjust the stitch length and thread tension
properly. Soft fabric may require a backing
to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn
or organdy is suitable for this purpose.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
Pattern Selector: =
Needle Position: JJ
Stitch Width: $ to 3
Stitch Length: FINE
General Purpose Needle Plate
Special Purpose Foot
Pressure: NORM
Adjusting Stitch Length
1. Turn stitch length selector dial to 25
(the beginning of FINE area).
2. Run the machine at a slow speed.
3. Gradually turn the stitch length dial
clockwise until stitches are closely
spaced and form a smooth surface.
e 23
Adjusting Thread Tension
Satin stitching requires less tension than
straight stitching or open zig-zag stitch-
ing. Furthermore, the wider the stitch, the
lighter the tension on the thread must be.
Notice the stitching on your sample. If
(sus ile E | A the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-
ERR 10: lower number, 09 De tension die
Flexi-Stitch patterns
With your Stylist sewing machine you can sew four F/exi-Stitch patterns.
Instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these patterns begin
on page 38.
Flexi-Stitch PATTERNS
Г F |
Mt AA X EK у = es a | Pa
a 101 Tec ora | ve Work
lant Overedae Stit
Lets you seam and overedo
In one operation.
To Sew a Flexi-Stitch Pattern
Use Red Selector Settings
e Set F/exi-Stitch pattern dial on red Ë .
Set pattern selector for desired stitch.
Set Stitch length dialonred ==.
Adjust stitch placement, stitch width,
thread tension, and stitch balance as
instructed on following pages.
Sew at moderate speed.
Setting Stitch Pattern Selector o ——
Set the stitch width selector on before
moving the stitch pattern selector.
ree SU
For ric-rac stitch mn
* Move pattern selectorto => . or Feather $
For slant overedge stitch
e Move pattern selector to
For feather stitch _
* Move pattern selector to a
For straight stretch stitch
ss Any pattern selector setting at stitch
width :
SL prt
dj & 3
To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the
stitch width selector must be moved from
the straight-stitch setting : to a setting
Нот $ to &. Stitch width is increased
as the dial is moved to the right.
On setting : all width is removed from
Flexi-Stitch patterns and the straight
stretch stitch is produced.
Flexi-Stitch patterns can be sewn in
either I (left), À (center) or A (right)
needle positions. Center needle position
is recommended.
Some Flexi-Stitch patterns require more
needle-thread tension than others. Make
a test sample with the fabric, thread and
presser foot you plan to use so that you
can adjust tension to suit the stitch you
have chosen.
For your test sample, set the tension dial
on 3 or 4. Notice the stitching; if the fabric
puckers, decrease tension by turning the
dial to a lower number. Sew at moderate
Before moving needle position and stitch
width selectors make sure needle is above
fabric and the stitch length dial is OFF
buttonhole settings.
When you use a Flexi-Stitch pattern,
stitch length is controlled with a single
setting of the stitch length dial. No further
adjustment should be made.
To set, turn dial until red bar mm is centered
under the arrowhead W on the control
NOTE: Stitching cannot be reversed when
the Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is on red
Flexi-Stitch setting.
You may need to adjust the F/exi-Stitch
pattern dial when using a F/exi-Stitch
pattern in order to achieve the correct
pattern appearance. Before you move the
Flexi-Stitch pattern dial from its neutral
position (red bar |} centered under W ),
make a test sample. If adjustment is
required, stitch slowly and move the Um I 1?
Ц ll
control dial as you sew. mil
e Turn the dial to the right to bring
stitches of the pattern together.
* Turn the dial to the left to separate
stitches of the pattern.
Turn to page 19 under “Straight Stitching”
for instructions on adjusting pressure.
For information on choosing accessories
refer to detailed instructions for sewing
with Flexi-Stitch patterns included in the
section called “Sewing the Professional
Way", which starts on page 38.
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By using a twin needle, you can produce
two parallel, closely spaced, decorative
lines of stitching simultaneously. You can
use either one or two colors of thread, and
you can choose either a straight-stitch,
zig-zag stitch, blindstitch, or multi-stitch
zig-zag setting.
Straight Stitching
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: Any setting
* Needle Position: y only
e StitchWidth: |
e Stitch Length: Optional
s General Purpose Needle Plate
e General Purpose Foot
Zig-Zag Stitching
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
* Pattern Selector: = or Jd or
+ Needle Position À only
e Stitch Width: See illustration at left
e Stitch Length: Optional
_ « General Purpose Needle Plate
+ General Purpose Foot (open stitching)
e Special Purpose Foot (zig-zag
satin stitching)
Twin-needle stitching can also be pro-
duced using a Flexi-Stitch pattern. Select
one of the patterns illustrated on page 29.
Center ( I ) needle position setting must
be used. Stitch width must not exceed
settings illustrated at left.
Use SINGER* twin needle, Style 2025 (size 14).
Before inserting the twin needle, make
sure you are using the general-purpose
needle plate a that the needle position
dial is set at JX, , and the stitch width
does not exceed the settings shown on
page 32.
To insert the twin needle, simply raise
needle to its highest point and loosen the
needle-clamp screw. Remove the single
needle and insert the twin needle in its
place. Tighten needle-clamp screw
threading for twin-needle stitching
For best results, use No. 50 mercerized or synthetic thread. Thread the
machine as for single-needle stitching, except pass thread between center
and back tension discs, and through right eye of needle. Attach secondary
spool pin in hole on top cover. Pass thread from second spool through guide
(by-passing the snap-in thread guide post) as illustrated, then between
center and front tension discs. Thread through remaining points, making
certain to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass thread through
left eye of needle.
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: =
se Needle Position: L
Stitch Width: See illustrations at left
Feed Cover Needle Plate
General Purpose or Special Purpose Foot
Flat buttons can be sewn on quickly and
easily using the plain zig-zag stitch
pattern. The space between the holes in
the button determines stitch width set-
tings. For buttons with standard hole
spacing, use settings | and Sas shown.
For buttons with unusual hole spacing,
use setting : and increase or decrease
the width ( Z ) as necessary.
Attach feed-cover needle plate (see page
8), and turn F/exi-Stitch pattern dial to O.
1. Set stitch width at : and needle
position at L (left). Position button
under foot and lower needle into center
of left hole by turning hand wheel to-
ward you. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel
toward you until needle rises out of
button and is just above the foot.
2. Set stitch width at medium-wide zig-
zag ( +) setting. Check stitch width by
turning hand wheel slowly toward you;
the needle should enter the right hole of
the button. Take six or more zig-zag
cre ue to attach button. End on left
3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch
width | and take three or four stitches.
Replace feed-cover needle plate with the
general-purpose needle plate when work
is completed.
NOTE: For best results, and when using
buttons less than one inch (2.5 cm) in
diameter, the Button Sewing Foot is
recommended (see page 66).
Accurate guidelines are essential to keep
buttonholes a uniform distance from
faced edge of garment, evenly spaced,
and on grain of fabric. For center closures,
place guidelines as follows:
1. Mark center line of garment as in-
dicated on your pattern. This guideline
can be hand basted and should follow
a lengthwise fabric thread.
2. Mark a position guideline for each
e Horizontal buttonholes are placed to
extend 1/8 inch (3 mm) beyond center-
line basting of garment. Horizontal
guidelines for buttonholes should
follow a crosswise thread of fabric and
if basted, be longer than finished length
of buttonhole. Determine length of
buttonhole (as described below) and
mark ends of each buttonholevertically.
e Vertical buttonholes are placed so that
center-line basting of garment is in
center of buttonholes. Determine
buttonhole length and mark ends of
each buttonhole horizontally across
center line and use center-line basting
as a buttonhole guide when stitching.
First, decide how long button opening
must be. Then, add 1/16 inch (2 mm) to
measurement for each bar tack (closing
stitches at each end of buttonhole). To
find length of button opening, cut a slit in
a scrap of fabric the diameter of button
you intend to use. Increase length of
opening until button slips through easily.
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
Pattern Selector: =
General Purpose Needle Plate
Buttonhole Foot
Stitch-Density Balance: Neutral
The four dial settings for buttonholing are
located on the stitch length selector dial.
Raise the needle above the fabric before
turning the buttonhole dial.
As you turn the dial for each step, your
machine is set for correct needle position,
stitch width, and stitch length, as well as
stitching direction for that step. You need
not turn fabric during buttonholing.
Always make a test buttonhole on a
sample of your fabric. Be sure to duplicate
thickness of garment and include inter-
facing. If the two sides of the buttonhole
sample are of unequal density, adjust
balance as instructed on page 37.
Place work under buttonhole foot, align
center marking of buttonhole with center
line on foot, and align end marking of
buttonhole with horizontal line on foot.
Do not lower the needle.
Step 1: Side Stitching
Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to step 1
(aligning it with arrowhead above dial).
Position needle in fabric at point A.
Lower foot and stitch to end of buttonhole
(point B). End marking should be aligned
with horizontal line on foot.
Step 2: Bar Tack
Raise needle above fabric by turning hand
wheel toward you.
Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise
© step 2. Take four or six stitches (point
Step 3: Side Stitching
Raise the needle above the fabric.
Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to
step 3. Stitch to within a few stitches of
the end of the buttonhole (point D).
Step 4: Bar Tack
Raise the needle above the fabric.
Turn buttonhole dial counterclockwise to
step 4. Take four or six stitches (point E).
For a heavier buttonhole, stitch around the
buttonhole twice. When stitching the
second time, follow the same procedure
as for stitching once around. It is not
necessary to reposition your garment.
Remove the work, draw threads to the
underside, tie, and trim. Place a pin across
cutting space at each end of buttonhole to
protect bar tack stitching. Then, using a
pair of small, sharp scissors, cut button
opening. Insert blade in center of button-
hole cutting space and cut from this point
in either direction.
On some kinds of fabrics, there may be a
difference in the density of the stitches on
the right and left sides of the buttonhole.
This is easily adjusted by turning the push
button to balance the stitching. A very
slight turn will produce a noticeable
e Begin with the stitch-density balance
line in a neutral position (aligned with
arrowhead above dial).
e Turn the push button to the /eft to
increase the density of the stitches on
the /eft and decrease on the right.
s Turn the push button to the right to
increase the density of the stitches on
the right and decrease on the left.
When buttonholing is completed, bring
stitch-density balance line back to its
neutral position, if it has been altered.
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Stitch balance
Balance LIne
in Neutral Position
sewing knit and stretch fabric
When you sew stretch fabric, doubleknit, tricot and jersey, choose one of
the stitch patterns that sew stretch into the seam. A wide variety of different
stitches are available so you can choose just the right one for your fabric and
sewing job. The table below will help you make the right selection.
Remember to use a SINGER ball-point needle (Style # 2045) on the
machine when you attach elastic or sew a knit or stretch fabric.
a ==
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red @
e Pattern Selector: Any setting
e Needle Position: +
e Stitch Width: !
Stitch Length Dial: Red ms
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Speed: Moderate
When you use the straight stretch
stitch to seam knit, stretch, and
elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and
strength are built in as the seam Is
being sewn. Because it is equally
useful for closed or press-open seam
construction and will not break
thread under stress, the straight
stretch stitch is also good for seams
that receive an unusual amount of
strain when worn. For example:
crotch seaming, sleeve insertion, and
construction seams in sportswear
and bathing suits.
1. Make a test sample to determine
thread tension and stitch balance.
Most fabrics of stretch or knit
construction need only to be guided
in front of the presser foot when you
use one of the stretch stitches.
Simply increase presser bar pressure
and let the machine move the fabric
to make the stitches that give
s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam.
Some fabrics, however, require
support while being stitched.
» For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet
and similar synthetic knits, apply
gentle tension by holding fabric
taut in front and back of the
presser foot as you sew.
Straight Stretch Stitching
Be sure to insert a ball-point
(yellow band) needle in machine
If you are stitching a synthetic
knit fabric, and increase presser
bar pressure if necessary.
2. Stitch and guide fabric as you do
for plain seams stitched with the
regular straight stitch. letting the
machine make the back-
and-forth stitches that give
s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. If
fabric has an unusual amount of
elasticity, it should be stitched
under tension as instructed below
under "Guiding and Supporting
3. Press seam as when using the
regular straight stitch.
CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric
while you are stitching as this may
deflect the needle causing it to
Applying Gentle Tension
Elastic will remain stretchable when it is
attached with the multi-stitch zig-zag.
The flexible joining produced by this
stitch allows elastic banding to be
stitched under, over, or between fabric
layers, making it particularly useful in the
construction of lingerie and swimsuits.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: -::
Needle Position: L
Stitch Width: 2 or = (maximum)
Stitch Length: About 20
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
A ladder seam made with blindstitching is
both functional and decorative. Partic-
ularly appropriate for knit and stretch
fabrics, the blindstitch provides stretch-
able, decorative construction seams and
edge finishes for necklines, pockets and
collars in sportswear and swimwear.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
Pattern Selector: 3
Needle Position: J
Stitch Width: = (maximum)
Stitch Length: 10t0 15
Thread Tension: Light
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
ес ее
After stitching, open seam by pulling
fabric back on opposite sides of seam to
produce ladder effect. Press seam allow-
ances of construction seams to one side.
Seam allowances of enclosed seams are
pressed together in the usual way after
seam has been opened.
To make seams in lingerie durable and
flexible, use a combination of straight and
zig-zag stitching. Make a test sample to
help you decide which of the following
methods is most appropriate for your
fabric and garment. Method # 1 is
particularly suitable for 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
bias seams in woven fabric and Method
# 2 is best for seams in nylon tricot.
Method # 1
For a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam:
e Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch
width at | ) on wrong side of fabric.
¢ Press both seam allowances inthesame
« From the right side, topstitch with
narrow zig-zag stitching, letting needle
alternately enter seamline and seam
Method # 2
For a narrow seam:
* Cut the fabric for a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
e Straight-stitch seamline on wrong side
of fabric, using a regular or stretch
s Place a line of medium-width, open
zig-zag stitching close to the straight
stitching. (Stitch width medium to
medium-wide; stitch length 20.)
es Trim away excess fabric close to
stitching to produce a narrow seam
Seams in knit and stretch fabric can be
joined and finished in one operation with
the slant overedge stretch stitch. Two
different methods may be used. Method
# 1 (overedging) is recommended for
firm fabrics in garments where a 1/4 inch
(6 mm) seam allowance is adequate.
Method # 2 (mock overedging) is most
appropriate for bulky knits and fabrics
that have a tendency to curl or fray and
should be used where a wider seam
allowance is needed. Make a test sample
to help you decide which method is best
for your fabric and garment. Be sure to
duplicate the cut of the garment seam in
your test.
Remember to use a ball-point (yellow
band), Style 2045, Size 14 needle in your
machine if you are sewing a synthetic
—e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red I
e Pattern Selector: 3
* Needle Position: y
e Stitch Width: = (maximum)
Stitch Length Dial: Red mm
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
¢ Speed: Moderate
Method # 1 — Overedging
1. Cut and fit the garment allowing for a
5/8 inch (1.5cm) seam allowance.
Baste seamline.
2. Trim seam edges evenly to a scant
1/4 inch (6 mm) from seamline bast-
3. Place trimmed seam under the presser
foot so that the straight stitches fall on
the basted seamline and the zig-zag
stitches fall over the seam edge.
Method #2 — Mock Overedging
When it is not practical to overedge
a seam because of the construction
of the garment or the fabric, a mock
point (yellow band) needle if you
are sewing a synthetic knit fabric.
overedge finish can be applied. This ze a bue che (1 Bom) 200
finish is appropriate for bulky knits, allowance. Baste ecamiino
fine tricots, and fabrics that curl or :
fray. 3. Place seam under the presser
foot so that the straight stitches
fall on the seamline basting.
1. Make a test sample before begin- 4. Press after stitching and trim
ning garment construction to test
machine adjustments. Be sure to
duplicate the cut of the garment
seam in your test, and use a ball-
away excess fabric to produce a
narrow seam edge. When the
seam supports the garment, omit
the trimming step.
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
"a <
Pattern Selector: -:: ог 3
Needle Position: J
Stitch Width: = (maximum)
Stitch Length: 8to 25 (depending on fabric)
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Applying Facing Finish
Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch
fabrics will be less apt to press through
and mark when given a flat edge finish.
Edge finishing with the multi-stitch
zig-zag or blindstitch, eliminates the bulk
of turned-in edges and retains fabric
1. Make a test sample.
2. Place stitching close to hem or facing
3. Press after stitching and trim away
excess fabric close to the stitching line
If necessary
Finished Facing
hints on sewing special fabrics
« Use masking tape or zipper adhesive
tape instead of pins or basting to hold
seams, zippers and hems in place for
e Stitch with a slightly longer-than-
normal stitch. A short stitch may cut the
» Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch
accurately. Seams cannot be ripped out
without leaving needle marks in the
e The shiny side of some vinyls tends to
stick to metal surfaces. Use a strip of
tissue paper between the fabric and
metal machine surfaces to prevent this.
Topstitching holds seams and garment
edges smooth and flat and adds a
decorative note.
« Reinforce button and buttonhole areas
with interfacing. Bound buttonholes
Diagonal Stitching are the best choice for vinyls with knit
Across the Point backing.
« For sharp points on collars and lapels,
take one or two stitches diagonally
across the point to allow enough space
to smoothly enclose the seam edge.
CIRE (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)?
Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to
hold seams, zippers and hems in place for stitching.
Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped out because needle marks
remain in the fabric.
Sew seams under light tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and
back of needle.
Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch and use an enclosed edge finish
for seams and hems.
Stitch ciré knits with a medium-length stitch and use a fine ball-point
Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as bound buttonholes) can be
made in ciré fabric. Always use an interfacing and make sure the close
zig-zag stitches do not cut the fabric.
tThe Even Feed Foot described on page 66 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.
e Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins
at close intervals at right angles to the
seamline. Pins with colored heads are
easy to see and remove.
* Sew in direction of nap.
e Stitch with a fairly long stitch and use
cotton-wrapped synthetic thread in a
size 14 or 16 Style # 2020 needle.
e Âs seam is stitched, smooth pile away
from seam allowance with a darning
needle or upholstery pin.
es After stitching seams with a 5/8 inch
(1.5cm) seam allowance, use small
hand scissors to shear pile from entire
seam allowance to reduce bulk.
e Stitch a 1/4 inch (6 mm) pre-shrunk
tape into neckline and shoulder seams
for stability and reinforcement or stitch
with the straight stretch stitch.
se Leather and leather-look fabrics com-
plement fur fabrics; use them for bound
buttonholes and easy button loops.
Coat hems are less bulky if narrow and
finished with a 3inch (8 cm) fabric Deep-Pile Fabrics
facing or grosgrain ribbon.
e Slash through the center fold of darts
and finger-press open or stitch with a
narrow zig-zag stitch. Trim away excess
fabric after stitching.
Use a light pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile.
Mark and baste with silk thread.
Use a size 11 Style # 2020 needle, and a fine thread for seaming. “A”
silk or nylon thread is recommended for velvet.
Always stitch in the direction of the nap.
For unpuckered seams, pin or hand baste together and then stitch under
light tension (see page 20). Extra-long, straight seams may be machine
basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.
When inserting a zipper, use the blindstitch for an almost invisible finish
(see page 47).
To sew panné velvet, use a ball-point needle and a shorter-than-normal
stitch length.
iThe Even Feed Foot described on page 66 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.
Smoothing Pile away
from Seam Allowance
construction details
At the notions counter in your Singer
Sewing Center, you will find many differ-
ent kinds of zippers, one of which will be
just right for whatever you want to sew.
The zipper package will contain easy-to-
follow instructions for inserting the zipper.
And, with the zipper foot, you will find it
easy to form an even line of stitching close
to the zipper.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
Pattern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position: J,
Stitch Width:
General Purpose Needle Plate or
Straight Stitch Needle Plate
Zipper Foot
Attaching the Zipper Foot
When the zipper is to the right of the
* Move position block on zipper foot to
left, to allow shank to enter right side of
foot, so that needle will enter right
notch in foot.
When the zipper is to the /eft of the needle:
« Move position block on zipper foot to
right, to allow shank to enter left side of
foot, so that needle will enter left notch
in foot.
(The zipper foot is snapped onto shank as
instructed on page 8.)
The corded seam is a professional treat-
ment for slipcovers, children’s clothes,
blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded
seam, make the welting first (or buy it
ready-made at a notions counter), then
stitch it into the seam. For both steps, use
the zipper foot to place the stitching close
to the cord.
e Flexi-Stiteh Pattern Dial: O
‚ <,
e Pattern Selector: =
Needle Position: L
Stitch Width: 3
Stitch Length: 12
General Purpose Needle Plate
Zipper Foot
Blindstitching, used instead of straight
stitching for the final step in zipper inser-
tion, gives a fine finish that is almost in-
visible. Ideal for knits, napped fabrics, and
Allow for a 7/8 inch (2.2 cm) seam
allowance in the zipper area when you
cutthe garment.
. Insert zipper in the usual way up to the
final step; then, turn garment right side
out and spread flat with zipper face up.
. Work from the right side and pin zipper
tape into position.
, Baste a guideline for blindstitching
alongside zipper, about 3/8 inch (1 cm)
from garment seam. Make sure basting
stitches go through all fabric layers and
zipper tape. Remove pins.
. Adjust zipper foot to right side of
. Turn garment wrong side out. Place
lower end of zipper tape over feed and
turn front section of garment back to
line of basting, creating a soft fold to
the left of the needle.
. Set stitch width selector and position
work so that the straight stitches will go
through the seam allowance and zipper
tape, and the sideward stitches catch a
few threads of the fold.
8. Lower zipper foot and stitch slowly.
After stitching, remove basting and
press lightly.
Creating Soft Folc
rr 1
Blindstitching Hem
Wrong Side
FT pe
BAT Bli ndstitch Hem Completed
e Flexi-Stiteh Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: =
e Needle Position: y or A
Stitch Width: To suit fabric
Stitch Length: 10to 20
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Blindstitch Hem Guide
Blindstitching provides a durable hem
finish that can be used on a variety of
light and medium weight fabrics. It is best
suited to straight hems. Taped, bound,
turned, or unfinished hem edges can be
blindstitched with equal ease. Blind-
stitching takes a little practice, however,
so make a test sample first.
1. Attach blindstitch hem guide as in-
structed on page 7.
2. Mark, turn, and press hem in the usual
way. (You may want to baste the
turned hem to fold it in place. If so, be
sure to place the basting at least 1/2
inch (1.2 cm) from hem edge.)
3. With the work wrong side up, turn the
hem under, creating a soft fold about
1/4 inch (6 mm) from hem edge. Press
4. Position the hem under the foot with
the soft fold resting against wall of
guide. Make sure flange of guide is
between the soft fold and top ofhem.
5. Lower the presser foot and stitehso that
the straight stitches fall on the hem
edge and the sideward stitches pierce
the soft fold. While stitching, guide
hem edge in a straight line and feed the
soft fold evenly against the wall of the
hem guide.
A practical, simple way to accent the
lines of a dress or coat is to place one or
more rows of stitching along collars,
lapels, facing edges, pockets, seams, etc.
For a tailored look, use lines of regular
straight stitching; use the straight stitch
foot and sew them with buttonhole twist
for added emphasis. For decorative
interest, use a decorative zig-zag or
Flexi-Stitch pattern. To add firmness to
hems and seams in knit and stretch
garments, topstitch with the straight
stretch stitch.
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: -::: or Z
Needle Position: J
Stitch Width: = (maximum)
Stitch Length: 20 or to suit fabric
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
With zig-zag stitching, interfacings can be
shaped without bulk.
1. Cut out the dart allowance on the
stitching line.
2. Bring raw edges together and pin or
baste in place over a muslin stay.
3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends of
dart for reinforcement.
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: = or 3 or =
Needle Position: J,
Stitch Width: $ or Z
e Stitch Length: 8to 20, depending on
choice of stitch and fabric
e General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Seam edges support the garment and
should be given a durable finish if the
fabricis likely to ravel.
Make a test sample first to determine
the stitch pattern that best suits your
. Adjust stitch length and stitch width to
suit fabric. Choose the settings that
will give you the most “open” stitch
that will secure the fabric edges;
avoid harsh, over-stitched edges.
. Trim the seam edges evenly.
Place stitching near the edge of the
seam allowance or over the raw edge
as illustrated.
. If stitching is placed near the edge of
the seam allowance, trim away the
excess fabric after stitching.
decorative touches
Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You
can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coloring book,
or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture
combine equally well.
A closely spaced zig-zag stitch is most commonly used in appliqué work,
but decorative stitch patterns may also be used effectively. Although you
may vary stitch width to accomodate fabric weave or texture, never allow
the stitch to be too wide.
When appliquéing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the
following methods is most appropriate for your fabric and design.
» Baste appliqué design to fabric.
e Outline design with straight stitching
(use a short stitch).
+ Remove basting and press.
» Attach special-purpose foot (and
general-purpose needle plate).
Method # 1 — Trimming after
1. Set machine for desired appliqué stitch
and set stitch width. Adjust stitch
length in the FINE area of the stitch
length dial.
2. Outline the entire design with appliqué
3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges
of the stitching with embroidery
Method # 2 — Stitching after
1. Trim outside fabric edges close to
straight stitch outline of design.
2. Set machine for plain zig-zag stitching
and set stitch width. Adjust stitch
length in the FINE area of the stitch
length dial.
3. Overedge the design with zig-zag satin
stitching. This step will produce a
smooth, lustrous finish that requires no
additional trimming.
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
Pattern Selector: S
Needle Position: J
Stitch Width: $ to =
Stitch Length: 12to 25
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
On soft, fine fabrics such as tricot, voile
and crepe, shell edging makes an attrac-
tive finish for narrow hems or bias folds in
blouses, slips, and petticoats.
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red [J
Pattern Selector 3
Needle Position: 3
Stitch Width: &
Stitch Length: Red mm
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Speed: Moderate
The art of joining two pieces of fabric with
an open, lacy decorative stitch is called
fagoting. You can create this attractive
trimming with the feather stitch. Use it
for decorative stretch seams in bathing
suits or for joining together narrow strips
of fabric to make an entire garment
Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel,
formerly put together with hand stitching,
can be quickly “pieced” and decorated
at the same time by using the feather
stitch. Joinings are both flexible and
_ when this F/ex/-Stitch pattern is
tubular bed sewing
The tubular bed simplifies fabric hand-
ling when you sew circular and hard-
to-reach garment areas. A few of the
sewing jobs for which you will find it
particularly useful are illustrated. To
prepare your machine for tubular bed
sewing, press the extension table
release push-button and remove the
extension table.
Use the tubular bed of your machine
when you make hats, bags and dolls’
clothes. You will find it a real advan-
tage for seaming small circular areas,
and in the placement of decorative top
Attaching a cuff to a gathered sleeve
or accenting it with decorative top
“stitching is greatly simplified when
you use the tubular bed. The fabric
flows smoothly around the bed giving
you full visibility and control of the
seam line.
Badges, emblems and insignia of all
sizes and shapes can be quickly
attached to shirts and uniforms when
the tubular bed is used. Slip the sleeve
or other hard-to-reach area over the
tubular bed and secure emblem with
zig-zag sewing.
keeping up appearances
Many zig-zag and F/exi-Stitch patterns
are just as useful for mending as they
are for creative sewing. A few of the ways
in which you will find them useful are
shown on this and following pages.
You will enjoy discovering others for
Mending a Tear
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial : O
e Pattern Selector:
Needle Position: J
Stitch Width: $ or $
Stitch Length: About 20
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
1. Trimragged edges.
2. Place underlay on the wrong side of
tear for reinforcement. (It is best not
to baste or pin the underlay since you
will be bringing the edges of tear to-
gether in the next step.)
3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the
edges of the tear together.
4. Shorten stitch length at ends and
corners to give extra strength.
5. Trim underlay.
“ Bar Tacks
Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain,
are made with the plain zig-zag stitch at
satin stitch length. Use them at pocket
corners, to attach garters, secure shoulder
straps, belt loops and zipper openings.
Repairing Stretch Garments
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: Red |
Pattern Selector: 2
Needle Position: Ÿ,
e Stitch Width: $ to =
Stitch Length: Red wm
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
* Speed: Moderate
Seams in stretch garments and lingerie
retain their elasticity when stitched with
the feather stitch. This Flexi-Stitch pattern
builds s-t-r-e-t-c-h into the seam as it is
being sewn and is equally suitable when
used to topstitch (as shown) or to over-
edge. Make a test sample to check dial
Repairing Seams
Breaks in press-open seams can be
repaired quickly and easily when you
use the straight stretch stitch. This flexible
stitch is ideal for knit and stretch fabrics
and particularly useful for repairing or
strengthening curved seams or seams
that will receive strain when being worn.
1. Make a test sample to check dial
settings. .
2. Remove loose thread along the break
and press seam edges together.
3. Re-stitch along original seamline,
guiding seam under presser foot with-
out stretching fabric, lettng the machine
move the fabric to make the back-and-
forth stitches that give s-t-r-e-t-c-h to
the seam. Overlap stitching one inch
at each end. Press seam open.
Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes,
knits, and household linens can be
darned effortlessly and quickly with little
practice. You may choose to darn either
with or without an embroidery hoop.
When greater control is needed, an
embroidery hoop is usually best.
Darning Without Embroidery Hoop
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pâttern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position: §
Stitch Width: !
Stitch Length: 12
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Pressure: HF
1. If area to be darned is open, baste an
underlay in place.
2. Place area to be darned under presser
foot; lower presser foot and start
stitching, alternately drawing fabric
toward you and pulling it gently away
from you.
3. Continue this forward-and-backward
motion as you fill the area with
parallel lines of stitching. For additional
strength, cover area with crosswise
lines of stitching.
Feed-Cover Needle Plate
\[ /
Darning with Embroidery Hoop
Darning With Embroidery Hoop
e Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial: O
e Pattern Selector: Any setting
e Needle Position: J
e Stitch Width: !
e Stitch Length: In FINE area
e Feed Cover Needle Plate
s No Presser Foot
s Presser Bar: Lowered
Remove presser foot with shank (by re-
moving the screw which fastens the
shank to the presser bar). Attach feed-
cover needle plate. Instructions for chang-
ing the needle plate are given on page 8.
Trim ragged edges from area to be
Center worn section in embroidery
. Position work under needle over feed-
cover plate and lower presser bar to
engage tension.
. Hold needle thread loosely with left
hand, turn hand wheel over, and draw
bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold
both thread ends and lower needle
into fabric.
. Outline area to be darned with running
stitches for reinforcement.
. Stitch across opening, moving hoop
under needle at a slight angle from
lower left to upper right. Keep lines of
stitching closely spaced and even in
When opening is filled, cover area with
crosswise lines of stitching.
This method of controlling fabric move-
ment with an embroidery hoop may be
used to do embroidering and mono-
cleaning the machine
Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few
moments of your time to keep it clean. How often you will need to clean the
machine will depend on how often you use it.
CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, disconnect power-line
plug from electrical supply.
Clean between
Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts. tension discs Clean
With a soft cloth, clean:
e Tension discs, take-up lever, and
thread guides.
o Presser bar and needle bar.
« Bobbin case. (If there is an excessive
amount of lint in the area, remove the
bobbin case for cleaning. See page 62
for instructions.)
e Machine surface. (If necessary, dampen
the cloth and use a mild soap.)
Remove face plate as instructed on page
62 and clean area behind it with a lint
Remove needle plate as instructed on
page 8 and, using a brush, clean the
rotating hook area under the needle plate
and slide plate.
NOTE: Your machine requires no oiling
under normal conditions. Your SINGER
representative, or Approved Dealer will
examine the permanently lubricated parts
whenever your sewing machine requires
tA lint brush designed for this purpose is available
for separate purchase at your local Singer Sewing
0, removing bobbin case,
Raise Presser Foot. face plate and bulb
CAUTION: Before removing bobbin
case, face plate and light
bulb, disconnect power-
line plug from electrical
Raise the presser foot.
* Turn hand wheel toward you until
needle is above the presser foot.
» Remove needle plate as instructed on
page 9.
« Remove bobbin.
To remove bobbin case, turn bobbin case
holder to back as far as it will go. Lift out
bobbin case.
To replace bobbin case, guide the forked
end under the feed and then draw the
bobbin case under the position plate as
Illustrated. Turn holder all the way forward
to lock bobbin case in position. After lock-
ing bobbin case in position, check that
bobbin case is not jammed, but has slight
rotational movement.
Replace needle plate.
» Fully close slide plate to lower the
Face Plate Cover needle plate locking pin and secure the
| needle plate.
e Loosen and remove screw and remove
face plate by sliding it downward.
e Slide face plate up so that rim is en-
gaged under edge of top cover.
e Align screw hole at lower edge of plate
with screw hole in machine and replace
and tighten screw.
This machine is designed to use a 15 watt maxi-
mum light bulb.
CAUTION: Before removing bulb,
disconnect power-line
plug from electrical sup-
Removing the Bulb
With thumb and forefinger lower the
light bracket. Do not attempt to unscrew
bulb. Press it up into socket and at same
time turn bulb over in direction shown to
unlock bulb pin.
Replacing the Bulb
Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin
entering slot of socket, and turn it over in
direction shown to lock bulb in position.
Push bracket back into recess.
You will not have any occasion to remove
the slide plate. However, if it should
accidentally become disengaged from the
machine, it is easily replaced.
+ Raise presser foot and needle.
e Place slide plate in slideway with the
front edge close to, but not covering,
the retaining spring (as shown in
« With a screwdriver, lift each end of the
spring into each of the side grooves on
the underside of the slide plate.
» Draw the plate gently toward you and
fully engage the spring.
e Close slide plate.
performance checklist
Should sewing difficulty be encountered, review the sections of this
instruction book that explain the sewing operation you are performing.
If the problem still exists, the following hints will help you correct it.
If the machine does not sew, make sure .. .
* Machine is connected to the electrical supply.
es Power and light switch is on.
Hand wheel disc is in sewing position. (See page 13.)
If needle bar moves but stitch is not formed, make sure...
* Needleis straight and sharp.
* Needle size is correct for the thread you are using. (See page 11.)
Machine is correctly threaded.
« Bobbin contains thread.
« Bobbin and bobbin case are correctly inserted in machine.
» Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.
If fabric does not move, make sure...
* Presser foot is down and that pressure dial is adjusted for the weight and
texture of your fabric.
* Stitch length selector is correctly set.
» Feed-cover needle plate has been replaced with the correct needle plate
for the stitching you are doing.
e All lintis removed from around the feed.
To avoid breaking of needles, make sure...
e Needle Is not bent or burred, and that it is correct for the machine, and
proper size for the thread you are using.
* Needleis fully inserted in needle clamp.
* Machine is set for straight stitching at center needle position when you
are using the straight-stitch needle plate and foot.
Twin needle does not strike needle plate when doing twin-needle
stitching. (See page 32.)
* Presser-foot shank is securely fastened to presser bar.
* Needle plate is correctly seated and slide plate is fully closed.
* Fabric being guided or supported behind the needle is not being pulled
too hard or too fast.
If stitching is irregular, or needle thread breaks, make sure...
e Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is set at O when straight or zig-zag stitching.
e Flexi-Stitch pattern dial is balanced when sewing Flexi- Stitch patterns.
e Machine is correctly threaded
» Thread is even and free from knots.
» Needle is straight and sharp and right size for thread.
* Needle-thread tension is not too tight.
+ Bobbin case is correctly threaded and properly inserted.
e Threads are correctly placed under presser foot when you start to sew.
» Bobbin case area is free of lint and loose thread ends.
`е Bobbin or bobbin case is not damaged.
Also remember to...
e Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle and take-up lever.
s Raise needle above fabric before making adjustments to stitch width and
needle position.
» Use red selector settings for Flex /-Stitch pattern sewing.
o Turn F/exi-Stitch pattern dial to O when making buttonholes.
e Start and finish sewing with take-up lever in its highest position.
» Adjust stitch length, pressure, and thread tension to suit your fabric.
» Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting a sewing job.
e Lower presser foot before setting pressure dial.
e Press hand wheel disc for sewing and disengage bobbin winder after
winding a bobbin.
e Remove feed-cover needle plate after button sewing and after darning
with an embroidery hoop.
Sew at a moderate speed when using a Flexi- Stitch pattern.
e Clean your machine periodically.
Enjoy Sewing!
If you have any questions, please write to:
Consumer Affairs Department
The Singer Company
321 First Street, Elizabeth, N.J. 07207
special accessories for special jobs
Fashion" aids have been designed to enable you to give your sewing that
extra professional touch. The ones described on these pages are just a few
of the complete selection available at your local Singer Sewing Center.
Professional® Buttonholer No. 102878
sews six kinds of buttonholes, plus
eyelets, in a variety of fabrics.
Even Feed Foot No. 507806 is effective
in keeping fabric plies even and in
matching plaids, stripes and patterns. It
is an invaluable aid for sewing hard-to-
feed vinyl and fake fur, pile, stretch,
bonded and laminated fabrics. Ideal for
topstitching on all fabrics.
Ruffler No. 86742 offers a simple,
effective way to make gathered and
pleated ruffles. The ruffler is used for
straight stitching only.
Binder Foot No. 81245 is used to apply
ready-made bias tape or unfolded bias
binding to an unfinished fabric edge. It
is particularly useful for binding seam
edges that might ravel.
Button Foot No. 161613 holds any
two-hole or four-hole button securely for
stitching. The groove in the foot can be
used to hold a needle, over which a
thread shank can be formed.
Seam Guide No. 161172 helps keep
seam width uniform when extra control is
needed, especially on unusually wide or
narrow seams. Used as a guide for top-
stitching and blindstitch hemming.
Edgestitcher No. 36865, used with the
straight stitch setting, is ideal for joining
and inserting lace, tucking from pin width
up to 1/4 inch (6 mm), French seaming
and seam piping, facing, and seam
Gathering Foot No. 161659 can be
used for evenly spaced shirring as well as
for a single line of gathering. This foot is
used for straight stitching only.
Hemmer Foot No. 161671 is used for
turning and stitching narrow hems in one
operation. Thus, you can eliminate bast-
ing or pinning whenever you are making
ir edges, lingerie finishes, and the
Darning and Embroidery Foot No.
161876 is recommended for all types of
free-motion work. It is ideal for em-
broidery, monogramming and decorative
designs because the transparent toe fully
reveals the line of the design to be
Leather-Sewing Needle, Style # 2032 is used for stitching leathers
and suedes.
SINGER Oil, available in tube or one-application capsules, is especially
prepared for leaving a fine film of lubricant on the precision bearing surfaces
of your machine. It ensures freedom of parts movement and protects metal
parts from excessive wear.
Lint Brush, with its nylon bristles, is an essential tool for cleaning the
thread handling areas which can accumulate lint and fluff.
SINGER Sewing Book . . . a complete guide to sewing, with new ideas
and new techniques for fashion sewing and home decorating. It has over
1500 color illustrations dramatizing every step of the instructions, and
twenty-four pages of exciting color photographs.
Deluxe Monogrammer No. 171278. With the deluxe monogrammer you
will have the pleasure of stitching initials 1-1/2 inches high to create
monograms that are ideal for adding a personal touch to table linens,
towels and wearing apparel. An attractive flower motif can also be made.
your personal measurement chart
This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. Have someone assist
you in taking the measurements carefully with an accurate tape measure.
The illustrations below show where the tape measure should be placed when taking each
Inches (cm)
1. BUST — Fullest part —
slightly higherin back .. ............
2. WAIST — Around natural
waistline .. eee EEG
3. HIP — u (Mh below
natural waistline (fullest
PAY ax ear pews NASA
4. SHOULDER — From base
of neck to top of arm di Te
— From armhole to arm-
hole 5 inches down from
centershoulder .. .. iin. .
From armhole to armhole 4
inches down from center
shoulder .. ETS
From neck base at shoulder
to aline even with point of
bust Si 6 ZE O NONE
—From neck base at
shoulder over fullest patte of
bustto waistline .. .. ........ a...
From the prominent bone
at base of neck to natural
waistline .. .. ws... .... a
10. SLEEVE WIDTH — -Around
arm at upper edge of under-
armseam .. as MATA aa
Shoulder to elbow a arado —
towel ZA. GE HUBO ;
Down center from waist-
line to hem... .. .. iain
Down center from waist-
line to hem о ihe нео ен В
15. FULL LENGTH — Waist to
floor at side seam .. RB LEE :
to ankle ce eee eae о ...
17. CROTCH SEAM (st stand-
ing wn GERD dB RANA
18. CROTCH SEAM (seated)
— Waist to chair at side 69
seam E a Fi HE :
Accessories ........... EEE 6
ADBHOUE simmons 51
Blindstitch Hem Guide ........................ 7,48
Blindstitch Hems i 48
ВОВ coisas 5,9
Winding eee ‚12
Bobbin Case
Removing and Replacing 62
Threading ere 14
Buttonhole Foot... cman 7, 36
Buttonholes:.....—.. e ee 35
Stitch Density Balance ............... | 37
CRBEKNSE spam нони енаий ‚ 64
Cleaning the Machine ee .. 61
Darning ae EEE . 59
Dartsin Interfacing …………………………………. 49
Elastic, Attaching оне 40
Electrical Connections a... 5,10
Speed Controller … а ны 10
Embroidering . BO
Fabric, Thread and Needle Table a 11
Face Plate
ome and ió 62
Fagoting..... Aún 52
Fashion Aids... A | | 67
Feed-Cover Needle Plate 6, 34, 60
Feed ........ : 3
Finishes for Hems and Facings . on 43
Flexi-Stitch Pattern Dial ............3, 25, 29, 31
Flexi-Stitch Patterns … ste 29
Adjusting Stitch Balance... 31
Free-Motion Stitching . _ 60
General Purpose Foot an 6
Guiding and Supporting Fabric . 23, 35
Напа оао а орала 3
Hand Wheel Disc ...... В 5
Hems, Blindstitch .. cgi ncn 48
Knit Fabrics, Sewing occ. 38
Light Bulb ns 63
Lubrication . emo _ 61
MOTTO ==: ie a vea 57
Needle... 220 _ Le 9
CHANCE == ea 9
Twin Needle ee cn 33
Needle Clamp .......... ¿qui ue Oe
Needle Position Dial ........ a 17. 26, 30
Needle Plate В | 3,6
GRNANeInO iu ris 8
Patchwork Quilting... As 52
Personal Measurement Chart . Le 69
PUTDAcROO veneran QU 22
Power and Light Switch оааьннесненснннных
Presser Foot men esse 6, 78
Changing ...............——— eee 8
Presser Foot Lifter ini 3
Pressure Adjustment 3,19
Principal Parts ere 2
Reverse-Stitch Push Button ........... 4,
Satin SUtchiINO === —. cz... —..e 28
Seams, SEWING cores EN
Corded esis, 46
CUNA aura cn 23
Finishes orme | 50
ВОО ОГ saone „40
EBENE a . “1
Overedged eee 42
PIQNTOLrOION uuu a cana 39
Shell Edging iii, 52
Slide Plate —.——— ——2——. ome. 3, 63
Snap-in Thread Guide... . 3
Special Fabrics, SEWINO ae ‚ 44
Special Purpose Foot .................7, 27, 32, 51
Spool Holder o. 3, 9,12
SPOOI PÎN rer . 9
Stitch Density Balance
(But) ek as 37
Stitch Length Dial 4, 18, 28, 31
Stitch Width Dial ..............—..—.".. 4,17, 26, 30
Straight Stitch Foot... 6, 17
Straight Stitching SE 17
Adjusting Selectors................———.. | 18
Stretch Fabrics, Sewing ccc... 38
Take-up Lever manne sans 3
Tension Adjustment .............-.........—.—.——.. 4
For Straight Stitching ..............—..—... 20
For Zig-Zag SE ess 26, 28, 30
TRread Cutter: == uan ¡AND 3
Threading the Machine 12, 33
Тор ЗОВИ 2 asc hace eme iaréis 49
Tubular Bed Sewing... ‚ 58
Twin-Needle Stitching ..................——.—.—. 32
Winding the Bobbin ................ 12
Zig-Zag StR commis 25
Basic Zig-Zag Patterns . ax 25
Needle Position oon. .26, 30
Satin SUtCHINO: ....— e... 2——— 28
Selecting Stitch Pattern ................... 25
Stitch Length ooo 27, 28, 31
Sútch WI... anna ano 26, 30
FIionet FOOT ccm cena ao 7,46
Zippers ser EEE 46
Blindstitch Zipper Insertion ............ 47
Dear Customer:
We recommend that for future reference you record the Serial
Number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided.
Refer to illustration Serial No.
at right for location
of Serial Number on
your machine.
Serial No.
Here, there, everywhere... S Ï N G E R
Form K9049 (1078) *A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Printed in Great Britain
(Part No. 116427-001)
...Makes great vacuum cleaners, too! |
A good vacuum cleaner is like a good sewing machine. You use it day in, day out.
It works hard. You expect years of dependable service.
You already know we make great sewing machines. But did you know we also
make great vacuum cleaners 7 And we've been making them for over 46 years,
with the same pride that goes into every Singer product.
For carpets, there's our Golden Powermaster* upright Моде! U-69; it has our twin- x
fan suction system that distributes suction power evenly over the entire nozzle. |
(Fact: Only Singer makes a two fan system.) Plus one of the largest disposable к
dust bags in the industry. The high performance vibrator |
brush (approx. 4000 rpm) first shakes dirt free, then
; < _
sweeps, then air-washes your carpet—that's triple
action cleaning power!
For floors and above-the-floor jobs, we have powerful
canister cleaners . . . like our Golden Glide* canister
Model C-17 ... which offers a two stage motor with 3.3
peak horsepower! Plus a pair of “pop-up” indicators.
One tells you when your bag should be changed; the
| other (an exclusive to Singer) lets you know if you've
| accidentally clogged your cleaner with socks, match-
books, etc. . . . That's fail-safe cleaning! Plus an air-
power control console that lets you adjust the suction
power to 6 different cleaning jobs . . . including carpets.
The C-17 has a separate motor-driven powerhead (for
carpet cleaning) which adjusts to 4 different carpet pile
And, there are other upright and canister models to
choose from. Come in and see them today.
= i N G E The first name in sewing,
the last word in cleaning.
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