Indoor Western Red Cedar
Cabin Sauna Assembly Instructions
Please read and understand the complete instructions prior to assembly and use of your
Required:
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2 People (recommended)
Rubber Mallet
6’ Step Ladder
Cordless Drill & #2 Robertson Bit
Red Robertson screwdriver
Carpenter’s Level
7/16” Wrench
Tape Measure
1.
Start by deciding where you would like your indoor cabin sauna to be placed. Locating it over a moisture-sensitive surface
such as hardwood or engineered flooring is not recommended as there could be some spillage of water from time to time,
and heat and humidity over time could have an adverse effect on certain flooring materials. A reasonably level concrete or
tile floor that will not be damaged by heat or moisture is recommended. Also consider the availability of 220v power for
your sauna heater when deciding on your sauna’s location.
2.
Find the half-height side wallboards (there will be two, and they will have flat bottoms with no grooves in them) and insert
the “knock-in” nuts into the bottom sides of the pre-drilled holes. Screw the threaded rods in from the top side until flush
as shown. Tap in with a hammer until flush.
Fig. 2.1
3.
Fig. 2.2
Stand one of the side board/threaded rod assemblies upright and lower the special flat-bottom front and back wall boards
(Note that just these bottom boards have flat bottoms – no groove) down onto it, threading the rods through the holes in
the ends (see Fig. 2.1) Note that with all of these wall boards, the rabbeted (recessed) ends always have the rabbeted
side (shown facing upward in Figs. 1.1 and 1.2) facing towards the inside of the sauna. (see Fig 3.2)
Fig. 3.1
Fig. 3.2 Recessed face towards the inside.
Fig. 3.3 Bottom layer assembled
4.
After the first layer of wall boards has been assembled, begin placing the short boards on the front side of the sauna to frame
the door. Note, as always, rabbeted sides face inward.
Fig 4.1
Fig. 4.2
Fig. 4.3
Fig. 4.4
Note: You can invert the pre-hung door assembly (prior to attaching the handles) to change the direction that the door opens.
5.
Benches: The height of the benches is up to you. Most people like the lower benches about 16-18” from the wooden sauna
floor (Duck Boards) and the top bench a similar distance above the lower one. First, lay down the duck boards. In the larger
sized saunas, the duck boards may be in two separate halves. Begin by marking for the top of the bench from the duck boards.
(see Fig. 5.1). For saunas with 6’ or longer benches, fasten the middle bench supports to the pre-installed cross support board
on the bottom of the lower bench. Start three 2½” screws into the bench supports under the ends of the bench(s). Have
someone hold the bench in line with the wall markings while you drive the screws into the sauna walls.
Fig. 5.1
Fig. 5.2
6.
Assemble the roof, starting with an end piece with trim, and continuing a board at a time across to the other side.
Fig. 6.1
Fig. 6.2
Fig. 6.3
Tighten up the spacing between boards as you go.
Use the included 2” wood screws every second board into the top boards of the front and back walls.
Fig. 6.4
Fig. 6.5
Place the final roof board/trim assembly and
secure with 2” screws
Then apply the front and back trim.
Fig. 6.7
Fig. 6.6
Fig. 6.8
7.
Attach the towel pegs where you want them.
Fig. 7.1 Four #2 Robertson flathead wood screws
8.
Attach the Towel Rack on the inside of the door and the Door Handle on the outside of the door at preferred height.
Fig. 8.1 Fasten towel hanger on inside of door
9.
Fig. 7.2 Beside the door is a good place for towel pegs.
Fig. 8.2 Attach the door handle
Heater Installation: This next step requires qualified electrician to install the wiring according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. You must ensure that the manufacturer’s suggested recommended distances from the floorboards (10½”),
walls and guards (2”) are met. Installing the heater can be done later, but if you wait until the roof is installed you’ll be
working in the dark.
Fig. 9.1
Fig. 9.2
10. Install the moulding on the corners of the sauna with supplied screws in 4 places per side (every fifth board or so). Avoid
cracks. See Fig. 10.2
Important note on aligning wall corners:
Before securing the corner moulding assemblies (Fig.
13.1), use a rubber mallet to align the corner joints and
close up any visible cracks in the inside corners:
With the nut on the top of the threaded rod snug, (not
tight), from inside, hit the ends of side wall boards
outward at the corner joint, then from the outside at
this same corner, hit the ends of the front wall boards
inward. Repeat this until you can no longer see any
cracks in the inside corner. Tighten threaded rod nut.
When the inside corner is even with no cracks showing,
fasten the outside moulding assemblies using the
supplied screws (1-½”-long #2 Roberston flat head
wood screws) 4 screws per board. (every 5th board or
so, avoiding cracks. Do this for both sides of the corner
as shown below in Fig. 11.2.). - Repeat for all corners.
Fig. 10.1
Fig. 10.2
11. The wooden sauna guard fence is also included and it is designed to fit around your heater to prevent contact with the unit
when hot. Start three 2½” screws per end. Fix the guard fence so that there is a minimum clearance between the heater
and the guard fence of 2”.
Congratulations, you have successfully assembled your Indoor Cedar Cabin Sauna!
WARRANTY
Our Products are warranted to be free of defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and service, for a
period of three years (3 Years) from date of purchase. With the warranty you will get a NO HASSLE next business day
(depending on shipping service) replacement for all requested parts. Product must be cared for properly, this
warranty does not cover misuse or negligence and the manufacturer is not liable for any injury or damage caused by
the product. The warranty is also not valid if repairs are attempted by anyone not authorized to do so.
HOW TO TAKE A SAUNA
1. Pre-heat your sauna to the desired temperature. The preferred temperature for perspiration is between 80-95°C. Higher
temperatures may actually inhibit perspiration. The amount of time needed to heat a sauna to the desired temperature
should be 20-30 minutes. Pregnant women and small children should keep the temperature below 70°C.
2. While it’s warming up, take a nice hot shower to open up your skin’s pores, and to keep your sauna cleaner, longer.
3. Take two large terrycloth towels into the sauna with you; one to rub your skin with to help you to perspire, and the other to
fold and sit on to reduce the amount of perspiration going onto the benches.
4. Enter the pre-heated sauna. Relax and allow your body to perspire in the soft dry heat. Do not throw water on the rocks
during the first part of the session. The appropriate amount of time for a sauna session is 15-20 minutes at the most.
5. Cool off with a cold shower.
6. Re-enter the sauna and sprinkle water on the rocks. This will increase humidity to about 30% to assist in perspiration.
About one cup of water every five minutes should be enough. Too much water will just cool off the rocks and you’ll get less
steam. Using hot water will keep from cooling off the rocks as much, enabling you to make more steam with less water. It
will also prolong the life of the rocks, as using cold water will cause more cracking over time.
7. After your sauna session, take a cold shower, or take a dip in a lake or pool. Repeat this sauna/cold shower or swim
process as often as desired.
8. It is important to hydrate during your sauna session and even to have a light snack.
9. Like bathing in a hot tub, excessive temperatures or exposure times can be harmful to a person’s health. People with poor
health should consult their physicians before using the sauna.
THESE ARE GUIDELINES ONLY. ENJOY YOUR SAUNA HOWEVER YOU DESIRE. CHILDREN MUST BE SUPERVISED BY ADULTS.
MAINTAINING YOUR SAUNA AFTER INSTALLATION
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9.
It is a good idea to wash off the sauna rocks before using them. They will be coated with a thick layer of rock dust from
processing and handling. If you don’t wash it off it will end up making a mess when water gets sprinkled on the rocks.
When your sauna is set up and working you should “break-in” the sauna before using it for the first time. Turn it on its
highest setting and keep it like that for about 1 hour with the sauna door open. This is recommended by the heater
manufacturer to burn off any oils and impurities from manufacturing processes. It also “cures” the woodwork. After about
¾ hour, slowly pour about one litre of water on the rocks. It should all turn to steam and not come out of the bottom of
the heater. If it does, you’re pouring too fast.
It is considered good sauna etiquette that guests take a shower with soap and sit on a double-layer of terrycloth towels to
prevent perspiration from getting onto the benches and walls where the oils will accumulate over time.
After each use, leave the door fully open for the wood to dry out. Duck boards can be lifted up to air out if necessary.
Under normal conditions, a slight wash of the floor and benches several times a year will maintain its cleanliness. The cedar
benches can be washed with a mild solution of liquid cleaner and water to remove any buildup and perspiration stains from
the wood. Never use ammonia or harsh cleaners as they can turn the wood gray.
Good care should be taken of the wooden bucket and ladle. They should be stored upside down to promote drying.
The igneous rocks may need to be replaced in 6 to 10 years, depending on severity and frequency of use. In many cases,
the rocks could last up to 15 years.
Do NOT use commercial wood sealers from local lumberyards or hardware stores. These are not designed to withstand the
sauna temperatures or humidity!
Contact your local dealer or Dundalk LeisureCraft Inc. directly if you have further questions or concerns regarding your
product.
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