tile roof installation manual addendum

tile roof installation manual addendum
Distributed and serviced in the USA by
Hot Sun Industries Inc
103-13200 Kirkham Way,
Poway CA 92064
858-683 0800
e-mail: [email protected]
web site: http://www.h2otsun.com
Note: In winter ensure all piping slopes downhill to drain and all drains are left open (unless you
live where it won’t freeze.) Hot Sun’s flexible fin-tubing can freeze full of water without concern.
 2009-2016 copyright Hot Sun Industries Inc (USA) and Hot Sun Industries Ltd (Canada) All rights
Make sure you know the plumbing scheme recommended for your unique situation.
Consult Hot Sun or your dealer. Background information is at www.h2otsun.com/pools .
Hot Sun solar pool heaters come with full design support and warranty. This technology
is tricky.
Read the general installation manual. It covers how to attach headers to fin tubes and other important
instructions that apply to all systems. This manual only discusses the methods unique to tile roofs.
The fin tubing comes in 88 foot lengths , 3.75 inches in width , including 6 water flow tubes. Three of these
strips of the fin tubing fit on one row of tile. A single header manifold corresponds to the same one row of
tile. A header manifold is 13.5 inches long. In most cases headers will alternate meaning the male ends are
connected via couplings (removable or glue-one) and the female ends are connected via lengths of 1.5” pvc
pipe. These lengths are determined by the tile row spacing. You want to match the header manifolds to the
fin tubes one row of tile at a time.
If your tile spacing is tighter than 13.5” you can steal and extra inch by gluing the male end to the female
end of two adjacent headers but don’t glue too many together like this. You want to be able to service it.
Read the main installation manual for instructions on the use of pvc cement. We recommend heavy body
grey pvc cement for the connections to the headers (no primer).
1) Once its laid out and you know which row to do first without wasting fin tubing (see main manual)
attach the first header to the first 3 strips of fin tubing.
2) Roll out that first row of fin tubing and strap it down one foot away from the header. Strapping it down is
done with a one tube wide strip of fin tubing “stitched” to the roof with an 8” length of black pvc coated
solid copper electrical wire.
The strap is made by separating one or two tubes of Powerstrip material. It tears along a perforation once
Use regular solid electrical wire (12 gage). Just cut pieces about 8”long, bend one end 90 degrees, lift tile
with a screwdriver, slide the bend end between tiles until you can rotate the wire 90 degrees so it grabs the
top of the tile below. See ideo under videos at www.h2otsun.com This wire can secure the strap. This
positions and secures all the fin tubing. You can glue it all down later with construction mastic or use a strap
every tile trough negating the need to glue the fin tubing down at all . This is called stitching the system to
the roof.
3) Attach the second header to its fin tubes and roll those fin tubes out and strap them down part way.
Attach this header manifold to the first one and secure the assembly to the roof. This row of headers will sit
in a trough. Its very important that the fin tubes come off the headers at the same angle and that the fin tubes
don’t touch the roof next to headers. The headers will expand and contract with temperature and this
movement against the tile will wear the fin tubing and a leak will develop. See repair manual under manuals
on www.h2otsun.com
The supplied riveted plate (a ss strap bracket riveted to a ss plate supplied by Hot Sun) can be slipped
between tiles. Secure this plate by gluing it to the tile above and below. Gluing is done with construction
mastic. Lepages Premium or Loctite Powergrab are the ones we typically use. Other methods can be
employed. Continue until your entire row of headers is complete. Note the reason you attach a header
before stitching the fin tube to the roof is so you don’t have to trim the fin tubing to length. The reason you
attach fin tubes to headers before connecting headers together is ease of assembly. Its easy to glue headers
together. The work and the challenge is gluing (see general manual) the fin tubes to the headers fully. You
have to inspect from all angles and you can’t do that if the header is glued in place first.
Take the weight of the headers. Its best to do this at the bottom because if you hang it at the top as shown,
you stress all the removable coupling connections.
One good way is to slip ppa coated ss strap through a strap bracket as shown above left. Then just slip it
between tiles (lift tiles with a screwdriver) . Note we glued the cap to the end of the row of headers via an
elbow so we had an easy way to hang it. Another good way is to secure to the wood you will find under the
ridge cap as seen below left..
Secure the headers down every 2 headers to prevent lifting in wind. Remember the headers still need to
expand and contract as they change temperature so don`t lash them down tight. Below right is a plate with
a strap bracket riveted to it, glued between tiles using construction mastic. Then a loop of ppa coated ss
strap goes around the header and the loop is completed with a strap clamp.
If you strip the 6 tube wide strips into individual tubes you can twist it to go around bends as shown above
right. Separating into individual tubes at the end and attaching each tube individually to the header allows
you to angle the headers. The headers do not need to be perpendicular to the flow!
If the headers are angled it simply means there is a longer stub of pvc pipe between female ends. You`ll
need a glue-on PVC coupling for each male to male end. Always paint any piping exposed to the sun. We
recommend paint that comes in a can as opposed to spray paint. For more on corners and angled headers
refer to the main installation manual.
4) Assemble the headers at the other end to the fin tubes first, then to each other and secure to the roof using
the same methods described. It’s very important you don’t try to glue the headers to each other first.
Attach headers to fin tubes first then to each other.
Complete the stitching to the roof. The straps go every trough which is approximately every foot and stitch
to the roof at every single row of tiles. Its one stitch for every square foot. You might want to complete the
plumbing first and run water thru the system to keep the surface cool as you crawl around on it. Hot Sun
collectors can be very hot in hot sun.
¼” copper tube drains dead corner
The vacuum breaker should be teed off the pipe entering the bottom corner of the bank of collectors. It
needs to be positioned vertically. Recognize that water freezes inside a black surface exposed to the night
sky at an air temperature of 42F not 32F. There’s one place that water gets trapped and that’s the dead
lower corner of the bank. You can put a drain there that has to be opened (nah) or you can plumb from there
to the return pipe with a ¼” copper tube (see main manual) or you can install an automatic freeze dump
valve that we can supply.
Once system is plumbed, check pressure at vacuum breaker location with solar off and with solar on. It
should be zero with solar off and no more than 3 with solar on. If not read the main installation manual or
consult with Hot Sun or your dealer.
Flexibility is absolutely key to longevity of a solar heater like this and Hot Sun collectors are the only
flexible collectors made in North America that are not epdm synthetic rubber and therefore do not break
down in pool chemistry guaranteed. See www.h2otsun.com/warranty.pdf
Watch the video on tile roof installations under videos at www.h2otsun.com
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