a) D C a) 3 0 D C C) Cl) C) C C-) Cs’ C C, Simple, up-to-date sewing Congratulations! You have bought a high-quality product that provides unique advantages. Your new hobbylock 756 can take any material in its stride and will sew, trim and neaten up for you in one ope ion. Your PFAFF hobbylock features the very latest in design and technology, and it is just as easy to use as this instruction manual is to follow. If you now take a bit of time to study the instruction manual nothing can go amiss. It is certainly time well spent, since it is the only way to find out just what your machine can do and put it to full use. If you have any further questions just ask your PFAFF dealer. He is happy to be of service with any help or advice. So now let’s get started! We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your very own fashion ideas. Safety ru’es For the United Kingdom only terminal I nor to a plug The leads must under no circumstances be connected to the safety-lead with three pins. The wires in the mains lead are coloured according to the following code: Blue: Neutral Brown: Live correspond to the colour As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not coding of the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows: is marked with the lettter N The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which or coloured black. which is marked with the letter The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal L or coloured red. be disposed of immedia Under no circumstances should cut-off mains plugs be used. They should tely. Defective mains leads must be completetly replaced. BS 1 362 and the fuse cover Only 3 A spare fuses must be used as approved by ASTA according to must be marked 3 A or with the corresponding colour code. are available from electrical sup The plug must never be used without fuse covers. Spare fuse covers pliers or the PFAFF agencies. Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2. : ___________________ IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS For the United States only This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSHOLD use only. When you use an electric appliance, the following basic safety precautions should always be adhered to: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. DANGER : To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts. 3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately. 4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid. WARNING 1: To reduce risk of burns fire electric shocks or injury to persons 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Great care is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Only use this sewing machine for its intended purpose as described in this manual. Only use attachments re commended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth 5. 6. 7 8. 9 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15 16. Never drop or insert anything into any opening. Do not use out of doors. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered To disconnect, turn all controls to off (,,O’) position, then remove plug from socket. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, hold the plug, not the cord. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. Do not use bent or blunt needles, Only use needles recommended by the manufacturer. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing itto break. Switch the sewing machine off ( 0’) when making any adjustments in the needle area such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow plug to whip when rewinding. : 17. I Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2 KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS IN A SAFE PLACE. 4 .1 Notes on safety Notes on safety for domestic sewing machi nes according to EN 60335-2-28 bzw. IEC 335-2-28. 1. The user must exercise adequate caution with regard to the up and down move ment of the needle and keep the sewing area under constant observation while working. I Environment The recommended environment is: Ambient temperature 100 C to 40° C Humidity 20 % to 80 % 2. When leaving the machine, during maintenance work or when changing mechanical parts or accessories, always disconnect the machine from the mains by pulling out the mains plug. This sewing machine is a high-quality electro mechanical appliance; it is a machine for supervised use in the home. It should be ope rated in such a way that it is not exposed to: dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, sta tic electricity, heat-producing objects, corro sive chemicals or liquids. 3. The maximum permissible wattage for the sewing lamp is 15 Watts. 4. The tension of the drive belt should only be adjusted by a Ptaff mechanic. To permit adequate ventilation the machine must be kept unblocked and used on a firm and even surface. 5. The machine should be put into operation as indicated on the specification plate. 6. Do not place any objects in openings on the machine. 7. Do not use the sewing machine if: there is visible damage, its function is defective, it is wet, e.g. with condensation. Treatment Always make sure not to damage your machine by knocking or dropping it. — — — 8. Do not pull the mains plug out of the sok ket by its cord. 9. If this appliance is used for another pur pose than that intended or if it is wrongly operated, we cannot accept any liability for any damage caused. 1 0. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not open the machine. There are no parts in side the machine which the user can re pair. This the exclusive responsibility of our qualified service staff. 11. Be sure to use only original PFAFF parts. Cleaning Housing and display: To clean the housing, use a dry, clean and soft cloth which is free of fluff. To remove any stub born dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol or paraf fin. Please Note! Never use insecticides or chemical products such as petrol (gas) or thin chemicals to clean the housing. 2 Ir I I I I CONTENTS Page 1 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 4 J 15. 16. 17. Accessories Needle information Principal parts How to open looper cover Principal parts behind looper cover Preparation prior to sewing Setting up the thread guide holder How to remove and insert needle • To remove needle (s) • To insert needle (s) How to remove and replace cloth plate How to remove and replace cylinder cover Threading the machine • Threading diagram • Understanding the color code • Stitch diagram a To thread the machine correctly • Important threading information Chaining off and test sewing Basic stitch types • 4 thread overlock mock safety stitch • Wide 3 thread overlock stitch a Narrow 3 thread overlock stitch How to adjust thread tension • Suggested tension settings for 4 thread overlock mock safety stitch a Correct balance of the 4 thread overlock mock safety stitch a How to balance the 4 thread overlock mock safety stitch Suggested tension setting for the • 3 thread overlock stitch balance of the 3 thread Correct • overlock stitch • How to balance the 3 thread overlock stitch How to change threads/tie on method How to adjust the stitch length How to disengage movable upper knife • To place movable knife in nonworking position • To place movable knife in working position 4 4 5 6 6 6 7 8 8 8 Page 18. 19. 20. 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 17 18 19 21. 19 19 19 19 20 20 22. 23. 24. 20 25. 21 21 . . . . . . 21 .22 23 .23 Seam guide lines How to adjust the overedge seam width How to sew a rolled hem • Machine set up • Suggested tension settings for standard rolled hem • Suggested tension settings for upper looper thread wrapped rolled hem • How to balance the upper looper thread wrapped rolled hem • Additional information about rolled hemming • To secure the rolled hem thread chain Stitch variations and sewing techniques • How to sew a flatlock decorative seam • How to sew an overlock blind hem • How to sew pin tucks • Turning square corners • Pin placement • Securing the thread chain • Applying elastic • How to reinforce a seam • Braiding by chaining off • Differential feed (with differential feed machine only) How to adjust the presser foot pressure. Free arm sewing Relationship between cloth, thread and needle Machine maintenance • Cleaning the machine • Oiling the machine • How to replace the stationary knife • How to exchange light bulb Troubleshooting chart Optional accessories and attachments Specification . 26. 27. 28. 24 25 26 26 27 . . . .27 27 28 28 29 29 31 31 32 33 33 34 35 35 . . . . 36 .38 38 39 40 40 40 .41 42 43 44 45 23 24 3 1. ACCESSORIES ( ( Needle set tal) Screwdriver (sheet me ® © © Tweezers plate Rolled hemming throat Hex-head wrench fl 1 - 0 UJ ) Sciewdiver (small si7e 1 I L accessories. See page 44 for optional V N 2. NEEDLE INFORMATIO t shank industrial needle This overlock uses a fla sibility of inserting the that eliminates the pos needle backwards. a standard household Do not attempt to use any size or type in this sewing machine needle of overlock. * * is furnished with the needle #2054 size 14 for nt needles (#2054-42) machine. Regular poi s dle nee nt poi and ball sewing woven fabrics th Bo ts. kni le for sewing (2054-06) are availab es 10, 12, 14 & 16. siz in types are available * * 4 the page 39 for selecting Refer to the chart on ts. r sewing projec correct needle for you #2054 Overlock needle Sizes available I__________ Regular Point wovens #2054-42 Ball Point knits #2054-06 10 10 12 12 3. PRINCIPAL PARTS © ® © © ® ® © © © © © ® © ® Thread guides and holder Handle Pressure regulating screw Left needle thread tension dial (blue) Right needle thread tension dial (green) Upper looper thread tension dial (orange) Lower looper thread tension dial (yellow) Throat plate Cylinder cover Cloth plate Looper cover Power & light switch Stitch length dial Hand wheel Motor cover Spool stand Cone adapter Spool pin 5 HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER 4. Push the cover to the right as far as it will go. Pull cover down toward you. () * * Caution: Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND LOOPER COVER 5. () Upper looper () Movable upper knife ® Presser foot ® Stationary lower knife ® Lower looper 6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING Connect the controller/electric plug tD to the machine receptacle (). * Plug power line * * * * * * Push “I” mark side Power switch (used also for light switch) to turn “ON” Push “0” mark side to turn “OFF” To run the machine and control the speed, press the controller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew. To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot from the controller. This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrican to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way. 6 © into electric outlet ®. For this sewing machine has to be used foot controWe No. 4 C-316 B. Be sure to make reference to “Warning” on foflowing page. Warning: 7. * Be sure that the electrical voltage of the elect ric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of the motor. * Handle the foot controller with care and avoi d dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use. * Disconnect the powerline plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, press er feet or throat plates, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the cont roller. * Befor&cleaning your machine, disconnect the powerline plug from the electric outlet. SETTING UP THE THREAD GUIDE HOLDER * This machine is shipped with the thread guide holder in the lowered position. * Fully extend the thread guide holder. * The two joints on the telescope will click into place when they are correctly positioned. * Center the thread guides above the spool pins. * Place thread over the cone adapters on the spoo l pins. Note: If the machine is threaded, straighte n the threads to prevent tangling. 7 RT HOW TO REMOVE AND INSE NEEDLES 8. • TO REMOVE NEEDLE (S) ine from the Be sure to disconnect the mach . le(s) need electric outlet before removing * the needle Turn the hand wheel toward you until is at its highest position. * needle set screw Loosen, but do not remove the with the small screwdriver. left needle set screw right needle set screw © * — — Remove the needle(s). * • TO INSERT NEEDLE (S) ce to the back. Hold the needle with the flat surfa * le clamp as far as it Insert the needle into the need will go. * Note: The left needle ® than the right needle * will be slightly higher ®. screw. Securely tighten the needle set Note: * * 8 needles. Refer to This machine uses #2054 mation. infor le page 4 for additional need the cylinder cover Remove the cloth plate or remove and replace if you find it difficult to the needle. Rat surface to the rear 1? 9 HOW TO REMOVE AND REPLACE CLOTH PLATE * Remove cloth plate for free arm sewing (tublar work) * To remove, pull cloth plate to the left while pressing the push botton on underside of cloth plate upward. * To replace, guide latch on cloth plate into hole in cylinder cover and push cloth plate to the right as far as it will go. :10. •1 HOWTO REMOVEAND REPLACE CYLINDER COVER * Removing the cylinder cover exposes the lower looper for easy threading and cleaning of the machine. * Cylinder cover can be removed together with the cloth plate by pulling the cylinder cover to the left. * To replace the cylinder cover together with the cloth plate, push cloth plate with the cylinder cover attached, to the right as far as it will go. * To remove the cylinder cover when cloth plate is not fitted on the machine, it can be removed easily by lifting it upward while pulling to the left. * To replace only the cylinder cover, place tab on top of cylinder cover under the throat plate and press cover downward and to the right. Warning: Do not hold the cylinder cover when lifting or carrying the machine. Caution: Be sure cylinder coveris replaced when sewing. 9 4 11. THREADING THE MACHINE r • THREADING DIAGRAM * A color coded threading diagram is located inside the loopei cover for quick refcrcnce. * Thread the machine in the order shown. ® to as • UNDERSTANDING THE COLOR CODE * * * * Left needle thread Right needle thread Upper looper thread Lower looper thread — — — Blue Green Orange Yellow ® ® ® © • STITCH DIAGRAM * * * * Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Right needle thread Left needle thread — — — — Orange Yellow Green Blue © Topside • TO THREAD THE MACHINE CORRECTLY (1) Threading the Upper Looper (Orange) * 10 Thread the upper looper as indicated © Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide D * F F Pass thread through hole @ from front to back, then to the front through right slot as shown. * F While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. * I I * * Thread the looper area of the machine following the orange color coded thread guides. (®- ®) Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back ®. Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory set to aid in threading the looper. * Pull about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. :4 11 - -- .- .- - (2) Threading the Lower Looper (Yellow) Thread the lower looper as indicated D * gh the Pass thread from back to the front throu thread guide * to back, Pass thread through hole J from front shown. as slot right gh throu then to the front * * 12 While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. ine following Thread the looper area of the mach es guid d ®®. threa d the yellow color code * I: I expose the Remove the cylinder cover (page 9) to . lower looper for threading * the lower Turn the hand wheel toward you until looper is at the far left. * I 10 cm (3 Pull 7.5 e (ij. guid thread * j 4 inches) of thread through of the lower Insert the thread through the left end looper.® * Drop the thread. * the accessory set Note: Use the tweezers that are in to aid in threading the looper. * * * * until the lower Turn the hand wheel toward you looper is at the far right. gh the hole in Pick up the thread and pass it throu the end of the looper ®. in the groove of The thread should be positioned the lower looper. through the Pull about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread the upper of top the over looper and place it . plate t throa the of looper and to the back 13 : rr t (3) Threading the Right Needle (Green) Thread the right needle as indicated * I (iJ--®. — . \ L_—4 1• * * 14 — Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide D * A —- Pass thread through hole ® from front to back, then to the front through right slot as shown. While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. II * s® Continue to thread point thread through upper Be sure to pass the Note: * * —®. guide(). thread path of the thread right needle ®. Thread the eye of the the easier to thread when The needle may be n no d and placed in the upper knife is disengage e 23). operating position. (see pag before sewing. Be sure to engage knife r back, under the presse Place the thread to the foot. — * 15 L (4) Threading the Left Needle (Blue) * Thread the left needle as indicated * Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide * I from front to back, Pass thread through hole slot as shown. right through front the then to °Tfl * While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. J 16 (. Continue to thread points * ®—®. Note: Be sure to pass the thread through lower thread path of the thread guideC. * * Thread the eye of the left needle. ® The needle may be easier to thread when the upper knife is disengaged and placed in the non operating position (see page 17). Be sure to engage knife before sewing. — * Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot. • IMPORTANT THREADiNG INFORMATION * I .1 1 *1 * Always thread the needle(s) last to prevent mis threading the lower looper. If the lower looper should come unthreaded. 1) Unthread the needle(s) 2) Thread the lower looper 3) Thread the needle(s) Correct view Wrong view 17 12. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING * When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads over the throat plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot. * Hold the threads and apply a slight tension. * Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain. * Lower presser foot. * Continue holding the chain and press on the foot control until the chain is 5 7.5 cm (2 3 inches) in length. * Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and sew a test sample. Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break. * At the end of the sample, continue to run the machine with the presser foot down until the chain reaches 5 7.5 cm (2 3 inches) in length. * Clip the thread chain. Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine always chain off and sew a test sample to test tensions and make adjustments as necessary. 18 13. BASIC STITCH TYPES • 4 THREAD OVERLOCK MOCK SAFETY STITCH * uses This machine is a four-thread overlock that 5.7mm a two needles and two loopers to create stitch. (7/32 inch) wide four-thread mock safety • WIDE 3 THREAD OVER LOCK STITCH * When the right needle is removed a wide 5.7mm (7/32 inch) three-thread stitch is sewn. 4 • NARROW 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH When the left needle is removed a narrow 3.5mm (9/64 inch) wide three-thread stitch is sewn. adjust Note: The stitch width can be increased by ing the knife (page 25). The left needle stitch width can be in creased from 5.7mm (7/32inch) to 7.2mm (9/3 2inch), in The right needle stitch width can be 5.0mm to ch) creased from 3.5mm (9/64in (1 3/64inch). * — — 114. HOW TO ADJUST THREAD TENSION * I * * * *1 .4 S The thread tensiod dials on this machine are a oneturn system. As the number increases on the dial the thread tension becomes tighter. 0 = lowest tension 9 = highest tension Be sure the machine is correctly threaded other wise proper thread tension cannot be obtained. s, When making adjustments to balance the tension it is recommended that half 1) Adjustments be made in no greater than a number at a time. 2) Sew a test sample after each adjustment. Current Setting is 1’. Adjustment would be to 1 or 2 for Y 2 turn adjustment. 19 • SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR 4 THREAD OVERLOCK MOCK SAFETY STITCH Note: Tension Dial Light weight These are suggested tension settings only. Tension settings are effected by 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread * * • CORRECT BALANCE OF THE 4 THREAD OVER LOCK MOCK SAFETY STITCH • HOW TO BALANCE THE 4 THREAD OVER LOCK MOCK SAFETY STITCH When the upper looper thread lies on the under side of the fabric Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (orange) to a higher number Or turn lower looper thread tension dial (yel low) to a lower number. * — — * When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric Turn lower looper thread tension dial (yellow) toward a higher number Or turn the upper looper thread tension dial (orange) toward a lower number. — * When the left needle thread tension is too loose Turn the left needle thread tension dial (blue) toward a higher number. — * When the right needle thread tension is too loose Turn the right needle thread tension dial (green) toward a higher number. — 20 Upper looper thread Right needl’\ needle J’ thread thread L ierXooper \ hread Underside TINGS FOR • SUGGESTED TENSION SET TCH THE 3 THREAD OVER LOCK STI * Tension Dial Fabric Note: * lock Stitch Left Needle/Wide 3 Thread Over settings only. These are suggested tension by Tension settings are effected ric fab of ss kne thic and e 1) Typ 2) Needle size content of thread. 3) Size, type and fiber Light weight Blue 3 : Medium weight Heavy weight Orange Yellow Green 5 1 2 1 2 1.5 2.5 Overlock Stitch Right Needle/Narrow 3 Thread Tension Dial Fabric Blue Green Orange Yellow Lightweight 3 1.5 2 Medium weight 4 1,5 2 5 2 2.5 : Heavyweight THE 3 THREAD • CORRECT BALANCE OF OVER LOCK STITCH I Needle 1 Topside READ • HOW TO BALANCE THE 3 TH OVER LOCK STITCH * 1, lies on the under When the upper looper thread side of the fabric ad tension dial Turn the upper looper thre (orange) to a higher number. ad tension dial Or turn the lower looper thre (yellow) to a lower number. ears on the top When the lower looper thread app ad tension dial Turn the lower looper thre . ber (yellow) toward a higher num tension dial ad thre Or, turn the upper looper (orange) to a lower number. Needle thread — I — I I * 1 Topside - Underside Lower looper thread — Upper looper thread Needle thread — Topside * 1. L9Werloper b00 Underside loose, Turn the When the needle thread is too to a higher en) gre or e needle tension dial (blu number. Topside Underside 21 HOW TO CHANGE THREADS/TIE ON METHOD 15. To change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool. * * Place new thread on stand. * Tie new thread and old thread ends together. 3 cm (1 inch) length. If Clip thread tails to 2 clipped too short, threads may come untied. * 22 * Firmly pull both thread to test knot security. * Note tension dial settings. * Turn the tension dials down until the dial stops. machine one at a Pull the threads through the time. check for tangles on If threads do not pull easily, er thread stand. thread guides or looping und * * 1’ ugh the needle, STOP When pulling thread thro the needle. when the knot is in front of it through the needle. Cut the thread, and insert vious settings. Return tension dials to pre * * * STITCH HOW TO ADJUST THE LENGTH 16. be set on the 3mm The stitch length dial should ing conditions. (7/64 inch) setting for most sew 4mm (5/32 inch) when Adjust the stitch length to . sewing heavy weight fabrics 2mm (5/64 inch) when Adjust the stitch length to to obtain excellent sewing light weight fabrics seams without puckering. * * * J MOVABLE HOW TO DISENGAGE UPPER KNIFE 17. IFE IN TO PLACE MOVABLE KN NON WORKING POSITION 9 onnected from the Be sure the machine is disc power Source. Open looper cover (page 6). der to the right as far as Push the movable knife hol * I * * it will go. I you until the knife Turn the knob away from n. clicks into a horizontal positio * I the up position Note: If the knife stops in * * you until the knife Turn the hand wheel toward clears the top of the machine. fe to the horizontal Continue to rotate the kni position. 23 • TO PLACE MOVABLE KNIFE IN WORKING POSITION Open looper cover and push the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. Turn the knob up and toward you until the knife clicks into the operating position. * * [ Caution: Always close looper cover before operating machine. 18. SEAM GUIDE LINES When the left needle is inserted, the thick line on the left of the looper cover is 16.0mm (5/8 inch). * * When sewing with the right needle, the thick line on the left of the looper cover is 14.0mm (35/64 inch). Note: All lines are 2.0mm (5/64 inch) apart. 24 OVEREDGE HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH 9. four-thread stitch The machine is set to sew the tion stitch at a posi le and three-thread left need ). width of 5.7mm (7/32 inch * e-thread right The machine is set to sew the thre of 3.5mm (9/64 needle position stitch at a width inch). * Left need’e Left need’e be increased to The 5.7mm (7/32 inch) setting can m (9/64 inch) 7.2mm (9/32 inch) and the 3.5m (13/64 inch) by setting can be increased to 5mm adjusting the stationary knife. * Right needle * * * * * * * I disconnected from the Be sure the machine is power source. Open the looper cover (page 6). knife (page 23). Disengage the movable upper e 9). Remove the cylinder cover (pag holder set screws Loosen the 2 stationary knife ided in the accesso with the hex-head wrench prov ries. (1) to the right to Move the stationary knife holder left to decrease increase the stitch width, or to the the stitch width. of the stationary Be sure to align the cutting edge throat plate. of knife level with the top surface the (2) * * * ‘ (2) Tighten set screws. (3) Replace the cylinder cover (page 9). nal position Return the movable knife to its origi (page 24). to corn * Test sew and adjust tensions as necessary ease in stitch pensate for the increase or decr width. width below Note: Do not set the overedge seam 3.5mm (9/64 inch). (31 25 HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM 20. * * * and overedging Rolled hemming is done by rolling the fabric edge. organdy, Light weight fabrics such as lawn, you, crepe, etc. perform the best. heavy or stiff Rolled hemming is not suited for fabrics. 1F MACHINE SET UP 0 the Be sure the machine is disconnected from power source. Remove the left needle. the right Insert a #2054 size #10 or #14 needle in * * * needle position. le Turn the hand wheel toward you until the need is at its highest position. Unscrew the throat plate 3crew. * * plate being Install the rolled hemming throat the plate een betw ds threa the careful not to catch and the machine. Replace throat plate screw. * * Open looper cover (page 6). Disengage upper knife (page 23). Remove the cylinder cover (page 9). * * * * * with the Align the left edge of the stationary knife . plate t throa ming hem d “M” mark on the rolle See page 25 for adjustment. not in contact Note: Be sure the stationary knife is ming throat hem with the edge of the rolled plate. * 26 r knife and Replace the cylinder cover, engage uppe close the looper cover. Stationary knife holder Set the stitch length dial to “2—F” and a fine seam will be sewn. * This machine can sew two types of rolled hems. * • SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR STANDARD ROLLED HEM * Always sew a test sample and adjust tension balance if neccessary. Underside Topside Adjust tension balance the same as for a narrow three—thread overlock stitch (page 21). * Tension Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow 3.5 3.5 2.5 SUGGESTED TENSION SETTINGS FOR UPPER LOOPER THREAD WRAPPED ROLLED HEM For medium and heavy weight fabrics that are difficult to roll. Always sew a test sample, and if neccessary, adjust tension balance as instructed below. * 1 I Topside For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower loopet with lightweight regular thread. Tension Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow 3.5 1 5.5 i • HOW TO BALANCE THE UPPER LOOPER THREAD WRAPPED ROLLED HEM * When the upper looper thread is too loose Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (orange) to a higher number. Needle thread Upper looper thread — Topside : Low looper Underside 27 ead is too loose When the lower looper thr thread tension dial per Turn the lower loo ber. (yellow) toward a higher num ead tension dial thr per loo Or, turn the upper . (orange) to a lower number * — I — Topside loose When the needle thread is too n dial (green) to Turn the needle thread tensio a higher number. * — \ Uppee thread Topside RMATION ABOUT • ADDITIONAL INFO ROLLED HEMMING to in when you begin sewing * Hold the thread cha o the seam. keep it from curling int sewing on the material in the Place a slight tension ed. ain seam finish can be obt direction and a finer * be ge stitch width that can The minimum overed 1.5 ly ate im rox app ming is obtained for rolled hem cutting width cannot be the mm (1/16 inch) since h). set below 3.5mm (9/64 inc * LLED HEM THREAD • TO SECURE THE RO CHAIN liquid seam sealant to the Apply a small drop of in to dry, then cut the cha end of the seam. Allow close to the stitches. ss m sealant for color fastne Note: Test the liquid sea before use. * 28 \ Lower looper Neidle thread Underside 21. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES • HOW TO SEW A FLATLOCK DECORATIVE SEAM * A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the three-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam and pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. * The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only. (1) MachineSetUp * Remove the left or right needle. * Begin with the machine threaded and tension balanced for the three-thread overlock stitch (page 21). * Loosen the needle thread tension (green or blue) generously. * * Loosen the upper looper thread tension (orange) slightly. Tighten the lower looper thread tension (yellow) generously. (2) FatIocking a Seam * Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of the garment. * Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric. * The needle thread (green or blue) will form a V on the underside of the fabric. * The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the fabric edge. 29 the Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull stitches flat. * (3) Decorative Flatlocking Place the movable uper knife in the nonworking position (page 23). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. * * Fold fabric wrong sides together. Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric. * Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten. * about Flatlocking (4) Additional Information * * * sted for the The tensions must be correctly adju fabric to pull flat. inent thread The upper looper thread is the prom e thread in rativ deco in the fiatlock stitch. Place a ds in the threa s cuou the upper looper and inconspi lower looper and needle. For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides inent together. The needle thread will be the prom thread that creates the ladder (A). Note: (page An optional Edge Guide is available 44) to aid in sewing a flatlock stitch. Underside Topside (A 30 • HOW TO SEW AN OVER LOCK BLIND HEM The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation. The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible. Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a narrow three-thread overlock stitch. Note: The three-thread flatlock stitch can also be used. * Set the stitch length dial at 4 5. * * * Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric, then back to the right side with 6mm (1/4”) beyond the fold. Stitch on the extended hem edge, allowing the machine needle to barely catch the edge of the fold Note: An optional blind hem foot (ULTR HEM FOOT) is available (page 45) • HOW TO SEW PIN TUCKS I Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting out the garment Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a narrow three-thread overlock stitch. this Note The rolled hem stitch can also be used for * * * g technique. Place the movable upper knife ir the nonoperat ing position (page 23) Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks using a water soluble fabric marker I ii 31 Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew. * Press the pin tucks in the same direction. * • TURNING SQUARE CORNERS (1) Outside Corner from * Cut out approximately 2 cm (51/64 inch) edge. ge seam the corner, in line with the overed * Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop. * Raise needle and presser foot. Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the throat plate. * Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail. Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge. * Pull slack threads up, then start to sew. * (2) Inside Corner Cut fabric at seam edge. * 32 Place movable upper knife in nonoperating posi tion (page 23). * Stitch on cut edge of fabric. Stop sewing before you reach the corner and fold the fabric to the left to straighten the corner. * * Continue to sew slowly holding the fabric edge in a straight line moving the fold as you sew. * • PIN PLACEMENT I. Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cut ting action of the knives. Caution: Sewing over pins will damage and/or de stroy the cutting edge of the knives. * • SECURING THE THREAD CHAIN * I * Thread a large eye, hand sewing needle (such as a tapestry needle) with the thread chain. Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure thread. Note: To secure a rolled hem thread chain see page 27. I 33 • APPLYING ELASTIC t Place the movable upper knife in the nonopera 23) ing position. (page * Divide the elastic and the area where the elastic a will be attached into quarters and mark with watersoluble marker. * g Lay elastic on the wrong side of the fabric makin sure elastic and fabric edges are even. * * * * * 34 Line up with edge of throat plate. Elastic should be sewn using the three-thread overlock stitch or the four-thread overlock mock safety stitch. 3 stitches, continue After securing with 2 sewing, allowing the fabric to feed through the machine while gently stretching elastic (a quarter at a time) with the right hand.• the Use the left hand to keep the fabric even with edge of the throat plate. E A SEAM • HOW TO REINFORC redge sewing will Inserting twill tape while ove stabilize the seam. e in the front of Insert the tape through the hol the foot. t to the back of the Position the tape under the foo m. sea t machine and sew the garmen * * * is sewn. The tape is attached as the seam * F • BRAIDiNG BY CHAINING OF * * * * fe in nonoperating Place the movable upper kni position. or twill tape through Insert filler cord such as yarn t. the hole in the front of the foo er the foot and chain Position the filler cord und off the desired length. used individually or Chained off braids can be woven into 3 or 4 ply braids. 35 DIFFERENTIAL FEED (with differential feed machine only) * Differential feed is a system which “stretches” or “gathers” the fabric, when amount of feed of front feed dog in relation to the rear feed dog is changed. * The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.77 1:2.0. Adjustment is made by means of the dif ferential feed adjusting lever as shown. * Feed Control Lever Center Mark Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias. (1) Gathered Overedge (Use regular throat plate) * Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems, etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey be fore assembling into garment. To set the differential feed adjusting lever * Open looper cover and loosen differential feed adjusting lever thumb screw. * Slide adjusting lever downward below the center mark, as required, to gather, and tighten the thumb screw. Note: The setting position of the lever will differ de Tighten Gather Loosen pending on the material being sewn and the amount of feed for shirring. * When differential feed adjusting lever is set to maximum gathering ratio, the stitch length will automatically change to 3mm (7/64inch) if previous setting was higher than setting “3”. * Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting lever to center mark for normal overedge stitching. J 36 (2) Stretch overedge (Use regular or rolled hemming throat plate) * Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. To set the differential feed adjusting lever * Open looper cover and loosen differential feed adjusting lever thumb screw. * Slide adjusting lever upward above the center mark, as required, to stretch, and tighten the thumb screw. Stretch Loosen * To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot. Note: If amount of “stretch” is not correctly set in relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improperly sewn overedge seam. In such case, reset differential feed adjusting lever closer to the center mark. * Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting lever to center mark for normal overedge stitching. 37 HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE 22. The presser foot pressure of the machine is pre adjusted for sewing medium weight fabrics. * screw Pressure regulating thumb It may be necessary to adjust the pressure to sew different weights of fabrics by turning the pressure regulating screw. For light weight fabric—decrease pressure. For heavy weight fabric—increase pressure. * FREE ARM SEWING (tubular work) 23. This machine becomes a free arm machine simply by removing the cloth plate and is especially suited for sewing hard to reach garment areas such as armholes and overcasting trouser cuffs. (See page 9 for removal of cloth plate) * * 38 Place garment over the free arm and sew. pressure Less pressure ore r 24. EAD AND NEEDLE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THR Type of Fabric Needle Type of Thread Light Weight No. 10/70 Cotton No. 100 Silk No. 100 Spun No. 80 Tetron No. 80 Cotton No. 60 Silk No. 50 Spun No. 60 Tetron No. 60 Oxford, Denim Tweed, Corduroy, Cotton No. 40 — Silk No. 40 — Serge Spun No. 60 Tetron No. 60 Spun No. 80 Tetron No. 60 Spun No. 60 Tetron No. 60 Cotton No. 60 Spun No. 60 Tetron No. 50 Lawn, Organdy Voil, Crepe, etc. Medium Weight Muslin, Sheersucker Satin, Gabardine, Broadcloth, etc. 90 — 100 — 80 — No. 14/90 80 — 80 — Heavy Weight 60 No. 14/90 60 No. 16/100 — — 80 80 Knit Tricot Jersey Wool (woven, knit) No. 10/70 - — — — — — — 90 No. 10/70 80 No. 14/90 80 No. 10/70 80 No. 14/90 80 80 No. 10/70 60 No. 14/90 Woolly nylon Woolly tetron 4. Note: For additional needle information see page ii 4 ..‘ 39 25. MACHINE MAINTENANCE An overlock requires more maintenance than a conventional machine mainly due to two reasons. 1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives. 2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts. * . CLEANING THE MACHINE Danger: Before cleaning your machine, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle. Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry lint brush. * • OILING THE MACHINE Danger: Before lubricating your machine, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle. should be The oiling points shown in the diagram, oiled periodically. any other Note: Use sewing machine oil. Do not use oil or damage could result. * 40 / HOW TO REPLACE THE STATiONARY KNIFE Danger: Before replacing the stationary knife, dis connect power line plug from the wall receptacle. The stationary knife should be changed when it becomes dull. The stationary knife can be replaced according to the directions provided, however if there are any re difficulties experienced, consult your adjustments. make the to presentative * * * Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source. * Open the looper cover and set the movable upper knife D in the nonoperating position (page 23). * Loosen the stationary knife clamping plate set screw ® and remove the stationary knife ® * Place a new stationary knife in the groove of the stationary knife holder, align the cutting edge level with the top surface of the throat plate ®. * * Tighten stationary knife clamping plate set screw Return the movable upper knife CI) to its operat ing position. 41 26. • HOW TO EXCHANGE LIGHT BULB TROU Danger: Always unplug before relamping. * shop. Take Light bulb is available at your shop and ask for same bulb. old bulb to the * If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of l27V, ask for light bulb your machine is 110 conforming to following specification. Fabrb feed — Bayonet type ll0- 127V 15W T-20 • Glass shape BA 15D/19 • Lamp cap 48mm • Overall length * * Need] Remove light cover screw and while pushing the cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and remove from machine as shown in the illust ration. Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb, push bulb into the socket and turn to the right. If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 200 240V, ask for light bulb conforming to following specification. Thre 1 Stitci Light cover screw Edison type (screw type) 200 240V 15W T-22 Glass shape E14 Lamp cap Overall length 56mm — * Remove light cover screw and while pushing the cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and remove from machine as shown in the illust ration. Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace, screw bulb into socket turning it to the right. Irregi Replace Remove Fabri Irreg Fabr MacI oper 42 26. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART Solution Problem Fabric does not feed well — — — Needle breaks — — — — Thread breaks — — — — — — Stitches skip — — — — — — — Irregular stitches — — — Page Lengthen stitch length Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabric 23 38 Insert needle correctly Do not pull fabric while sewing Tighten needle set screw Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics 8 18 8 39 38 Check threading Check for tangled or caught thread Insert needle correctly Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or have a blunt point Use a high quality thread Loosen thread tension 10— 17 22 8 8 Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or have a blunt point Tighten needle set screw Insert needle correctly Change type or size of needle Check threading Increase presser foot pressure Use a high quality thread 8 8 8 4 10— 17 38 39 Balance thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Check threading 19— 21 22 10—17 Loosen thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Use high quality light weight thread Shorten stitch length Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabrics 19— 21 22 39 23 38 39 19 —21 F move Fabric puckers — — — — Irregular trimming — — Fabric jams — — Machine does not operate — Check alignment of knives Replace one or both knives 41 41 Close looper cover before sewing Check for tangled or caught thread Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine before sewing with overlock 6 22 Connect machine to power source 6 43 27. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES AND ATTACHMENTS (1) Sewing with an Overlock * For additional information, the following book is recommended, Sewing with an Overlock-From The Sewing Reference Library, published by Cy Decosse Incorporated. (2) Edge Guide * Attaches to the looper cover to aid in seaming and decorative sewing such as flatlocking and pin tucking. set screw (3) Spool Cap (S) * Adapts a regular thread spool for use on the over lock machine. (4) Anti-spill Net (S) * For use with threads that easily spill off the cone. I 44 F- (5) Ultra Hem Foot Special foot that makes sewing a blind hem easier. The machine will trim the excess fabric, finish off the edge and sew a hem in one operation. * (See page 31) (6) Clean Pocket * Fits under the base of the machine and catches the fabric scraps as they are trimmed. (7) Fabric Separator * Most suited for gathering when sewing tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts etc. (See Gathered Overedge, page 36 for gather stitching). 28. SPECIFICATION Item Specification Sewing speed Stitch length (feed amount) Differential feed ratio Overedge stitch width Needle bar stroke Presser foot rise 1,300 spm maximum 1-5 mm (Standard: Rolled hemming F -2, ordinary overedge 3) 1: 0.77 -1: 2.0 (with differential feed machine) Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.5-7.2 mm Needle Number of threads Machine dimensions Weight hobbylock 756 27 mm 5 mm No. 10/70, No. 14/90 4 Width 326 mm x depth 272 mm x height 270 mm 6,1 kg 45 PFAFF G. M. Pfaff Akt i en g esel Isch aft Werk Karisruhe-Durlach GritznerstraIe 11 76227 Karlsruhe Gedruckt n Deutschland Druckerel Geblenc GmbH 76356 Weingarten, Stettiner StraSe 17 Technische Anderungen vorbehalten. Nr.: 29-62999558/OOO DG englisch 4/95 4/96 . .