Sidewall Application - Red Diamond Wallaba Shingles

Sidewall Application - Red Diamond Wallaba Shingles
Sidewall Installation
The instructions provided herein are not meant
to supersede local construction code
requirements. Be sure to consult with your local
building code official for guidelines unique to
your municipality. Red Diamond Premium Grade
shingles are backed by a 50-year limited
warranty. Utilizing this guide will assist in the
proper installation of your Red Diamond shingles
and help provide decades of protection and
beauty with minimal maintenance.
Pneumatic Nailer, Hammer, Chop Saw, Jig Saw
Tape Measure, Storey Pole, Block Plane, Chalk
Line, Caulking Gun, Utility Knife, Ladder/
Scaffolding, Drill, Level, T-Bevel
Make sure to keep the shingles covered and dry
before and during installation. Keep the shingle
bundles off the ground or cement floor.
The specifications in this guide apply to the
installation of Red Diamond shingles to exterior
wall surfaces. Consult your local building code
for proper preparation and installation
requirements. Failure to comply with local
building codes will void any warranty. Be sure to
prepare all walls before beginning installation.
Walls should be smooth and free of protrusions,
bulges, or nail ends.
 Cutting of the shingles is best accomplished
with the use of a saw. A utility knife may be
used to trim the tapered end.
 Calculate the number of courses to be
installed by measuring the surface area to be
covered and divide it by the desired exposure.
 The butt end of the first course must extend
at least 1” below the top of the foundation, so
add 1” to the wall height. Adjust the exposure
to produce even courses. A 6” exposure is
 Utilizing appropriate fasteners ensures the
shingles are properly anchored and
prevents potential chemical reactions with
wood extractives that may lead to
premature fastener degradation and
assembly failure. Use ONLY type 304
stainless steel ring shank nails or type 316
stainless steel ring shank nails if within 15
miles of saltwater. The fastener length
should be of sufficient length to penetrate
the underlayment and at least ¾” into the
 Use two fasteners per shingle. Fasteners
should be driven ¾” - 1” from edges and no
more than 1” above the butt line of the
overlapping shingle. Red Diamond shingles
may be installed over minimum ½” thick
exterior grade plywood or OSB with ASTM
D 226 felt underlayment. However,
installing shingles over a ventilation system
will allow for greater air circulation and a
wall system that provides decades of long
lasting protection.
Apply type 30 ASTM D 226 or ASTM D 4869 felt
underlayment material over sheathing horizontally per
manufacturer’s instructions. Be sure to allow for a 2”
horizontal overlap with each succeeding course. Ensure
that a 6” vertical overlap is maintained when utilizing a
new roll. The underlayment should be wrapped 4”
around both inside and outside corners.
Attach minimum 1”x 4” vertical spacers 16” on centers
to the frame or existing wall covering per applicable
building code. Attach minimum 1”x4” furring strips to
vertical spacers at desired exposure to correspond
with fastener placement. Screened venting should be
installed to prevent ingress of insects and debris.
Caulk openings around all windows, doors, and corners
with silicone caulk. Then install metal flashing above
windows and door openings, which typically extends 4”8” on each side (or per applicable building code). Proper
caulking and flashing is a critical step to the prevention
of water damage. Next apply trim around the windows
and doors and caulk as needed.
Utilizing the storey pole to measure exposures over
several courses, lay out courses avoiding narrow
shingles adjacent to windows and doors. Adjust
exposure as needed to produce even courses.
Exposures should align with tops and bottoms of
windows. If not, leave at least 4” for the top course of
the wall and doors and at the top and bottom of
windows. Draw lines on the wall or use a horizontal
board for proper shingle alignment. Use your storey
board as reference while installing your shingles.
For optimal installation, work from the bottom to the
top. Install the first row with a double course of shingles
at the base. Note that the first course (over the starter
course) should be ½” below the starter course to form
a drip edge. This drip edge helps prevent drawing
moisture up between the shingle layers by capillary
action. Be sure to leave a ½” space between the butt
end of shingle courses and all surfaces to prevent
moisture wicking. Shingle joints shall be offset by 1 ½”.
No joints shall be aligned in any three adjacent courses.
The starter course must extend at least 1” below the
top of the foundation.
Install the initial starter-course shingle at corners. Be
sure to extend the shingle beyond the corner to allow
weaving of alternating rows if you so desire. Install
succeeding courses in single-layer straight rows at the
desired weather exposure. Be sure to maintain straight
and level courses and consistent shingle spacing.
Sidewall shingles shall be spaced by ⅛ ”- ¼”.
To prevent warping, avoid butting shingle edges.
Instead, provide a joint space of 1/8”- 1/4” between
shingles. Use two fasteners per shingle at about 3/4” to
1” from each edge, and at 1” above the butt-line of the
overlapping shingle. Red Diamond shingles come in
random widths. Joints in any 3 consecutive courses
should never line up and should be offset by at least 1
The butt line of the starter course must have a minimum
8” ground clearance (or according to your local building
code). Be sure to provide 1” clearance from adjacent
horizontal structures and 2” from roof shingles.
Corner weaving is a commonly used method of
finishing intersecting rows. By using alternating
exposed corner seams with each course, an
aesthetically pleasing flush seam is created.
1. Start
shingles with widths
wide enough to extend
past the corner. Cut it
cleanly with a saw. Nail
it in place.
2. Using the installed
corner shingle as a
guide line, mark and
cut another shingle so
it is flush with the face
of the other. Use the
block plane to keep shingle corners flush and even.
3. Fasten the lower corner of the shingle with a stainless
steel ring shank nail. Pre-drilling may be required.
Alternate the fastener locations on succeeding rows
for a uniform and visually pleasing aesthetic.
NOTE: If you are not intending to weave inside corners, install
corner trim pieces leaving adequate room for caulking after
shingles are installed.
apply the fascia to the furring strip. Leave a 1” gap
between the last shingle and the spacer for air
flow. Once all the shingles are installed, apply caulk
to all trim joints.
Shingle rows will terminate and butt into windows.
Where the row meets the bottom of the window, make
sure that the vertical joints align with the bottom
corners of the window.
Glue and nail each corner of the shingle installed below
the window. The shingle and the bottom molding of the
window should be butted against one another. Predrilling is recommended for these face nails, for a clean
uniform appearance.
Window flashing that extends beyond the trim is
required for the window header. The butts of shingles
must be ¼” to ½” above the flashing to ensure proper
drainage and airflow.
1. Corner boards make finishing corner details simple
and easy.
2. Bevel the edge of each board and join the halves to
together with appropriate fasteners
3. Corner boards are susceptible to ground moisture.
Be sure to seal the ends with 2 coats of sealant and
caulk before fastening to wall with appropriate
There are two typical ways to finish the top of a wall.
1. Install molding to the wall and butt the shingles to
it, remembering that the final course needs to have
a minimum of a 4” exposure. Leave a ½” gap
between the molding and the soffit for air flow.
Finishing under gables require special attention because
the triangular shapes have visible nails.
1. Install horizontal rows as described above.
2. Use a T-bevel to capture the angle for cutting
along a gable. Cut the ends to fit the slope.
3. Install flashing. Then install angled shingles pieces
1”-2” above the flashing followed by full sized units.
4. Glue and nail into each of the corners. Once all
the shingles are installed, apply silicone caulk to all
trim joints.
2. Apply a fascia over the top of the shingle. Butt 1”x
wood strip next to the soffit for a spacer, and then
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