Century Helicopter Products | Predator 60 | Specifications | Century Helicopter Products Predator 60 Specifications

Predator Gas
Instruction
& Gas SE
Manual
SPECIFICATIONS
D
D
D
D
D
D
MAIN BLADES
MAIN ROTOR SPAN
TAIL ROTOR SPAN
OVERALL LENGTH
HEIGHT
ENGINE
Gas
710mm
62.2 in
10.5 in
56.9 in
18 in
Z231H
Gas SE
700mm
61.4 in
11.2 in
56.9 in
18 in
Z260H
Century Helicopter Products
Designed and Developed in USA
3rd Edition, Copyright February 2005. All rights reserved.
Building Instructions for the Predator Gas eCCPM helicopter kits.
Introduction
Congratulations on your purchase of Century Helicopter Product's newest RC helicopter model. The
Predator Gas eCCPM is an excellent addition to Century’s Predator model helicopter line. The two stroke
gasoline Predator is well suited for all flying levels and lowers fuel costs while extending into markets where
the glow engines cannot compete. Compared to other 60 class models, pilots will be elated to find the
Predator Gas is easy to build. This kit will exceed your expectations for precision control at an affordable
price.
In order to take advantage of the Predator’s performance capabilities we recommend using a high quality
computer radio system with 120 degree eCCPM mixing. The radio system should have at least 8 channels
to use modern heading lock gyros and throttle governors. The radio should also have a minimum of 5
programmable points on both throttle and pitch curves. Servos used should be a matched set of 3 for the
collective system, be of quality coreless, ball bearing and having a minimum torque rating of 70 oz/in. The
tail rotor servo should have a servo speed of 0.11sec/60 degrees or better.
Warning
This radio controlled model is not a toy! It is a precision machine requiring proper assembly and setup to
avoid accidents. It is the responsibility of the owner to operate this product in a safe manner as it can inflict
serious injury otherwise. It is recommended that if you are in doubt of your abilities, seek assistance from
experienced radio control modelers and associations. As manufacturer, we assume no liability for the use of
this product.
Pre-assembly Information
Upon opening the kit, all the major component parts are bagged by relationship to the different sections of
the helicopter. Various assemblies have been pre-assembled only requiring the final assembly. The particular
parts, screws and nuts required for each step are packaged in the same bag as the parts. Be careful when
opening each bag as not to lose any hardware. As a reminder, all metal to metal screw assemblies require
L242 Blue thread lock compound, all metal to plastic screw assemblies require slow setting cyanoacrylate
adhesive (Slow CA) and all bearing race to metal shafts should use L262 Red threadlock compound.
Care has been taken in filling and packing of each bag however mistakes do happen, if there is a parts
shortage or missing hardware please contact us at:
Century Helicopter Products
1740 Unit C Junction Ave.
San Jose, CA 95112
Tel: 1-408-451-1155
www.centuryheli.com
2
Helicopter Building Safety
Upon opening the helicopter kit, various components have been
pre-assembled to allow the builder to progress quickly through
the construction process. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to
check and verify that all components are installed and setup to
operate properly.
Predator Gas & Gas SE Construction Manual
This manual has been written for both the Predator Gas, CN1303 & Predator Gas SE, CN1304 series of
helicopter kits. The manual follows a step by step approach to building the helicopter with highlight labeling for components that are included in the Gas SE only.
Every attempt has been made to ease the assembly of your kit, at each step where there are complex assemblies you
can read the detailed written instructions to walk you through each step. Remember to take a few minutes before each
step to carefully examine the step in order to become familiar with the parts and assembly sequence before beginning
that step.
Symbols used to help assist you in building the kit:
Full Scale
Drawing
Repeat Steps
as specified
Partially
tighten
Helpful
Tip
Apply
oil
Apply threadlock
Purchased
Separately
Cut away
Shaded
Portion
Special
Attention
Apply JB
Weld
Apply
Grease
Apply CA
glue
Remove oil
residue from
fasteners before applying any
threadlock agent.
Tap holes with
machine screws
before installing steel
balls in plastic.
Hardware Description and Identification:
M3x6 Phillips Machine Screw
M - metric
3 - diameter
6 - length
Tap holes with
machine screws
before installing self tap
screws in plastic.
Tap holes with
machine screws
carefully in plastic holes
with bottoms.
M3x6 = 3x6mm and can refer to screws or ball bearings.
M3x6 Self Tapping Screw
M - metric
3 - diameter
6 - length
M3x10 Socket Cap Screw
M - metric
3 - diameter
6 - length
3x7 Ball Bearing
M - metric
3 - inside
6 - outside
Recommended Tools & Accessories
The tools and materials listed below are
the minimum needed to build the helicopter:
In addition, the following will make assembly and setup
easier, and prove useful later in your model toolbox:
Screwdrivers - Slotted and Phillips head.
Long-Nosed Pliers.
Allen Wrenches - 1.5 to 5.0mm
Appropriate Socket Wrench - Spark Plug
Hobby Scissors
Double Sided Foam Tape ( 1/16" - 3/32" )
Foam Rubber ( radio packing )
JB Weld ( bond clutch lining )
Locktight 260 Green, 242 Removeable
& 262 Permanent
Hobby Grease ( Super Lube )
Oil to lubricate sliding shafts (Triflow)
Tygon Fuel Line 1/8” ID - Z231 (3 feet)
Tygon Fuel Line 3/32” ID -Z260 (3 feet)
Part#CN2015
Part#CN2026
Part#CN2034A
Part#CN2052
Part#CN2293
Part#CN2055
Part#CN2070
Part#CN2219
Part#CN2255
Part#CNWI26555
Strap Wrenches
Torque Wrench
Hardened Tip Hex Screw Driver Set
Pitch Gauge with Paddle Gauge
150 Curve Tip Ball link Pliers
Main Blade Balancer
Fan Hub Puller
Ball Link Sizing Tool
Universal Flybar Lock
Ball Link Easy Driver
Control Rod Guage
5.5mm Nut Driver
3
Step 1 Rotor Head Block
The entire rotor head comes pre-assembled with
the standard HI6181A (red) head dampers
installed. 3D and aerobatic pilots should disassemble the rotorhead and install the hard
HI6181B (black) head dampers. Press in the
head dampers into the rotor head block. Lubricate the inside surface of each damper with
light oil. Leave the M2.5 screws loose.
#HI6181A
Head Dampers Standard (Red) x 2
Sport & Scale Flying
#HI6181B
Head Dampers
Hard (Black) x 2
3D Flying
Step 2 Seesaw Assembly
Insert one ball bearing into each
bearing cup and insert into the offset
plate. Apply one small drop of slow
cyanoacrylate glue (Slow CA) to the
joint between the backside of the
bearing cup and the offset plate.
Insert one ball bearing into each tie
bar, using an available M3 socket
cap screw form threads into both
ends of the tie bars. Insert one M3x6
button head screw through the right
side hole of the offset plate (see
photo) and thread into one tie bar.
Make two identical sub-assemblies.
Note that the bearing cups face
outwards from the head block. Insert
one M3x15 button head screw
through the tie bar bearing, slide one
steel spacer and carefully apply
L242 Blue threadlock to the exposed
threads and insert into the right side
of the head block. Do not overtighten. Repeat for the second subassembly. Once complete apply a
small amout of slow cyanoacrylate
glue and insert one HI6167 special
long thread ball into each offset plate
to complete the assembly.
#HI6160
Rotor Head Block
& M2.5x8 Socket Screw x 2
Completed rotor head.
Bond bearing cup
holder to metal
offset plate.
#HI3167F
Bearing Cups x 2
#HI3167B Offset
Plates x 2
#HW6001
M3x6 Button
Head Screw x 2
#HI3167G
Tie Bars &
Spacers
#CNBB48
M4x8 Ball
Bearing x 2
#CNBB37
M3x7 Ball
Bearing x 2
#HI6167
Special Ball x 2
Steel Ball on Left side.
M3x15 Button
Head Screw
#HW6001
M3 Threaded Stud
Step 3 Head Button - Gas SE
Gas SE only
Bond the M3 threaded stud into the head button using
L262 Red threadlock then apply more threadlock to the
exposed threads and thread into the top of the rotor head
block. Remove any extra threadlock compound.
4
#CN2215A
Machined Head
Button
#HW6205
M3x5x3 Steel
Spacer x 2
Step 4 Bell Mixer
#CNLR1014
Short Ball
Press one M3x7 flanged ball bearing into
one side followed by one M3x5 spacer and #HI6189
another flanged bearing from the opposite Bell Mixing
side. If the bearing is tight, lightly sand the Arm
bell mixer and use L262 Red threadlock to
bond the bearing in place. Install the
#CNLR1020
CNLR1014 short steel ball into the single
Medium Ball
hole side of the bell mixer and install the
CNLR1020 medium steel ball using L242
Blue threadlock. Install the medium steel
ball according to the table to suit your
flying preference. Use the center hole for
Bell Mixer Ratios
sport flying. Make two assemblies.
1:1.6 3D
1:1.3
1:1
#CNBB816
M8x16 Ball
Bearing
#HI6184
Main Blade
Grip
#HW6183
M14 Thrust
Washer
#CNBB37F
M3x7 Flange Ball
Bearing x 2
#HW6001
M3x18 Special
Shoulder Bolt
3D & Sport
Sport & FAI
Step 5 Main Blade Grip
Press one M8x16 ball bearing into both ends of
each main rotor blade grip. Slide one M14
thrust washer against the bearing closest to the
main rotor blade. Make sure that the bearing
and the thrust washer are properly seated into
the deep end of the blade grip. If necessary use
a socket that matches the outside diameter of
the bearing and press into position. Make two
assemblies.
Step 6 Main Blade Grip Assembly
Using an available M3 screw,
carefully form the threads in the
blade grip arm. Slide the M3x18
special socket shoulder screw
through the bell mixer arm from the
flat side, add one M3x5x3 spacer
and apply a drop of Slow Cyanoacrylate glue or Epoxy glue to
the end of the threads before
installing into the blade grip. Tighten
the bolt until there is no end to end
movement, but do not overtighten
the bolt as you can strip out the hole.
Make two assemblies.
Bell Mixer
Assembly
M3x18 Special Socket
Shoulder Screw
#HW6001
#CNLR1014
Short Ball
#CNLR1020
Medium Ball
Blade Grip assembly
from Step 5
Slow cyanoacrylate
or Epoxy glue
#HW6205
M3x5x3
Spacer
5
Step 7 Feathering Spindle & Blade Grip
#HW6182
Stiffness
Shims
#HW6180A
Feathering
Spindle
Round Recess on
Top
#HW6180A M5x10
Socket Screw & M5
Flat Washer
Large
thin
race
(inside)
larger ID
#CNBB715T
M7x15 Thrust
Ball Bearing
thick race
(outside)
smaller ID
Hobby Grease
Generally, grease is
needed for thrust
bearings and the tail
rotor gears. A light
Lithium or Silicon
grease should be
used, commonly
found at hobbyshops
for RC cars.
Remove one damper and press the feathering spindle to seat the ball near the center of the rotor hub. Reposition the
rubber damper in the rotor hub and slide one large shim against the damper followed by three regular stiffness shims and
one blade grip assembly onto the feathering spindle. The bell mixer and pitch arm of the blade grip is mounted on the
leading edge when as the head rotates clockwise. Install the M7x15 thrust bearing and lubricate the bearings with light
grease. Looking at the two steel races of the thrust bearing, note that the innermost surfaces have different widths
because the inside diameters are different. Slide the first larger diameter steel washer (thin race, larger ID) followed by
the greased ball race, followed by the second steel washer (thick race, smaller ID). Remove any grease that may have
transfered to the threads using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Apply L242 Blue threadlock to the inside threads on the
feathering spindle using a pin and install the M5x10 socket cap screw with washer. Do not overtighten this bolt because it
will flair the end of the spindle making removal of the blade grip nearly impossible. Repeat for the other blade grip.
Step 8 Flybar Control Yoke
M3x12 Button
Cap Screw
M4x5 Set
Screw
Ball Link Direction
Circle Mark
presses over
steel ball.
All ball links are molded to be installed in only one
direction. Look carefully at the hole for the ball,
one side is clean while the other side has a
circular mark, 1mm larger than the hole. The
marked side presses over the steel control balls.
#CNLR1006
M4x6 Micro Washer
#HW3176C Double
Studded Steel Ball
#HI3176C
Flybar
Control Arm
Pushrod A 47mm
(center to center)
#HI6145 Ball Link x 2
#HW6192 25mm Pushrod x 2
6
#HI3176C
Tapered
Standoff
Pushrod A is already assembled but check that the
length is actually 47mm (center to center). As the
pushrods are build and installed they should be checked
for tightness. Press one ball link onto each double
studded steel ball, making sure that pressure is applied
from the side of the ball link with circle mark. While
holding one flybar control arm, apply a small amount of
slow cyanoacrylate glue and thread one end of the
double studded steel ball into each standoff. When it
becomes difficult to turn with fingers, apply slow CA to
the threads and start screwing in the tapered control
arm stand-off on the other end of the ball.
A correctly installed the ball link should rotate with
some resistance when the metal pushrod is rotated in
your fingers. If the ball link to too tight the preferred
solution is to purchase Century’s ball link sizing tool
[CN2055] to custom fit each ball link to its steel ball.
Step 9 Flybar & Flybar Paddles
M4x5 Set
Screw
Note: Bell Mixer
positioned on
leading edge as
head rotates
clockwise.
#HW6173 Flybar 520mm
*packed with tailboom.
Pushrod B
26mm (center to center)
#HI6145 Short Ball Link x 2
#HW6192 14mm Pushrod x 2
M3x12 Button
Head Screw
HI6179 20gr 3D
Grey
HI6179A 30gr Sport Black
Gas SE
Gas
Slide and center the flybar through the head assembly. Carefully look at the flybar control arm assemblies from the previous step and notice that when installed correctly, the securing set screw is on top. Insert one M4x6x0.5 micro washer
#CNLR1006 against each bearing then slide the control arm halves onto each side, so that they match together and the set
screw remains on top. Insert one M3x12 button head socket screw to secure the opposite standoff, hold the tapered
standoff using pliers while tightening the screw (to avoid the double studded ball from stripping the plastic threads in the
center). Loosely tighten the M4x5 set screws into the round aluminum inserts aligned with the flat spots on the flybar.
Using a ruler, check the distance between the end of the flybar and the control arm and adjust until the lengths are the
same. Tighten both set screws, one at a time using L242 Blue threadlock. Make a pencil mark 5mm past the threads on
both ends of the flybar. Thread the flybar paddles onto the flybar until the mark is reached, align the paddles parallel. Again
using the ruler, rotate one paddle or the other to get equal distances, remember leading edge of the paddles turn clockwise.
Set the length of pushrod B to 26mm (center to center) and attach to the ball on the adjustable side of the bell mixer and to
the steel ball on the lower seesaw assembly. Check the ball links for proper fit, adjusting if necessary and remember that
the bell mixer is positioned on the leading edge as the rotor head rotates clockwise.
Step 10 Cooling Fan
The cooling fan hub and fan comes assembled but
requires final assembly. Remove each of the M3x6
flat head screws one at a time, apply L242 Blue
threadlock and tighten back into the cooling fan hub.
If a governor is planned to be installed, install magnets into the holes provided in the bottom of the
cooling fan. A similar hole has been made in the
cooling fan shroud mount plate to mount the sensor
on the right side (muffler side) of the engine.
#HI6009A Cooling Fan
M3x6 Flat Head
Screws x 4
#HW6012A
Cooling Fan
Hub
Holes for installing
governor magnets.
7
Step 11 Gas Engine Preparation
Remove and keep the four M4x14 Phillips head
screws to remove the pull start unit from the factory
mount plate. Similarly remove the factory pull start
plate and also keep the M5x14 flat head screws. The
screw will be reused to mount the engine and pull
start unit to the helicopter.
Care must be taken in removing the M5 flat head
screws from the engine because they are very tight.
Use the T-handle Phillips screwdriver tool that is
included with the engine, as this it the correct size.
#HW6207
M6x13x0.2 Shims x 4
#HW6117B
Landing Gear
Frame
M5x14 Countersunk Phillips
Screws x 3
(with engine)
M4x6 Socket Cap
Step 13
Screw x 2
Removeable Pull Start
Mount & Hardware - Gas SE
Install the spacers onto the M4 socket
bolts. Install two M4x6 socket bolts
with spacers to the rearmost holes
using L242 Blue threadlock. These
only hold the plate while starting, do
not overtighen. Install the M4x10
socket bolts with spacers to the
forwardmost holes using threadlock.
Using the original M4x14 Phillips
bolts, insert the screws through the
removable plate with the larger end of
the keyholes in the counter clockwise
direction. Mate the pull start unit from
the other side with the handle down
and rearward and secure with four
M4 locknuts. This will position the
handle on the carburetor side with
space to pull freely.
8
Step 12 Landing Gear Frame
Align the engine crankcase to the
landing gear frame and carefully route
the red coil wire above the coil without
putting a strain on the wire. Insert
three M5x15 countersunk Phillips
screws using L242 Blue threadlock.
On some helicopters, the clutch will sit
slightly below the bottom of the
clutchbell. If needed, insert three shims
between the engine and the landing
gear frame.
M4x10 Socket
Cap Screw x 2
M4x6x4
Spacer x 4
#HW6117B
Landing Gear
Frame
M4x6 Socket
Cap Screw &
Spacer x 2
(shorter)
M4x10 Socket
Cap Screw &
Spacer x 2
(longer)
M4x14 Phillips
Machine Screws &
M4 Locknuts x 4
Gas SE only
HW6118A
Removeable Pull Start Plate &
M4 Locknut x 4
Observe
correct
direction!
Step 14 Removeable Pull Start Plate
Carburetor Mount
Note that the pull start handle should be on the carburetor side.
Align the pull start plate keyholes to the bolts on the bottom plate,
press towards the engine and once the two plates are flush, rotate
the pull starter unit clockwise until it stops. Removal is just the
opposite. When choosing to use the removeable plate, the starter
unit must be removed prior to flying the model, as it could easily fall
during flight off from vibration.
Gas SE only
Handle is mounted
on carburetor side.
A greater danger is the potential to generate sufficient RF
(radio) noise to cause radio gitching and in certain circumstances will force a PCM reciever into radio lock out,
commonly resulting in a crash.
M4 Locknuts x 4
Step 15 Fixed Pull Start Unit
M4x14 Phillips
Machine Screws x 4
(with engine)
Look carefully at the bottom plate as there are four
M4 threaded holes to the immediate right edge of
each oval slot. These are to permanently attach the
pull start unit to the bottom plate. Position the pull
start unit to have the handle point rearward when the
handle is mounted on the carburetor side of the
engine. This will allow the handle to be pulled without
interference with the landing struts. Attach using four
M4x14 Phillips machine screws using L242 Blue
threadlock.
Step 16 Cooling Fan Shroud Mount Plate
Lay the cooling fan shroud mount plate onto the
face of the engine with the straight edge towards the cylinder head and the access hole on
the muffler side. Install four M5x8 socket cap
screws to secure the plate using L242 Blue
threadlock. Do not overtighten these bolts as
they thread into the front half of the aluminum
cast engine crankcase. Dip a cloth in rubbing
alcohol and degrease the threads in the end of
the engine crankshaft. Apply liquid oil to the
outside taper of the engine crankshaft, the entire
taper should be coated. Do not get oil into the
internal threads. Use Triflow or equivalent oil.
Access hole for
optional governor
Sensor
M5x8 Socket Cap
Screws x 4
Degrease crankshaft
threads.
#HW6118
Cooling
Shroud
Mount Plate
Overtightening the fan hub in the next step
can cause these screw heads to interfer with
the fan, these can be shortened if necessary.
9
M6x15 Socket Cap
Bolt & M6x13 Flat
Washer
Step 17 Engine Cooling Fan
Slide the cooling fan assembly onto the engine.
Locate the M6x15 socket cap screw and M6x13
flat washer and thoroughly clean these parts to
remove any oil residue. Install the fan assembly
onto the crankshaft. Slide the washer onto the
M6x15 socket cap screw install through the center
of the fan hub. Using a strap-wrench wrapped
around the outside of the cooling fan, tighten the
M6x15 socket cap screw until hand tight and check
the runout of the fan assembly. Acceptable runout is
0.002”, if more, remove the fan assembly and install
again. Once satisfied, remove the M6x15 socket
cap screw, apply L242 Blue thread lock and secure
in place.
#HW6012A
Fan Hub
5.0mm Hex
Key required
#HI6009A
Cooling Fan
#HI6020A
Fiberglass
Cooling Shroud
Step 18 Cooling Fan Shroud
Slide the fan shroud over the cooling fan and secure
using three M2.5x8 socket cap screws using L242
Blue threadlock. Tighten these until they stop and
that’s it, do not torque these bolts!
M2.5x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 3
#HW6011A
Clutch Shoe
M3x6
Button Head
Screws x 4
Step 19 Clutch Assembly
Apply light oil to the Torrington bearing in the center of the clutch shoe. Be
sure that no grease contacts the edge of the clutch or it could get transfered
to the clutchbell. Slide the clutch shoe onto the fan hub, press down and install
four M3x6 button head screws using L242 Blue threadlock.
Apply a few drops of
light oil on the
Torrington bearing.
Take the time now to make sure that the clutch shoe is
properly seated on the fan assembly by looking at it from the
side and making sure there is no vertical movement as you
slowly turn over the engine. Experience modelers can dial
indicate the clutch, the acceptable amount of runout is 0.002”
10
If you plan to install a governor, it is best to fabricate the mount for the sensor at this time, get it
fitted and set the sensor gap before the fan shroud
is installed.
Step 20 Rear & X Frame Assembly
Align the rear X frame with the left side of the
rear lower frame (notice the spark plug access
holes align) for the spark plug wire. Insert one
M3x8 socket cap screw from the outside of the
lower frame, through the lower hole only in the X
frame and secure with an M3 locknut on the
inside. Attach the right side lower frame in
exactly the same way.
#HW6117A
Rear X Frame
#HW6115C
Rear Lower
Frames - Left
Side
Align the
cutouts.
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screw &
M3 Locknut x 2
Assemble these bolts only to position the frames
at this time, they will be tightened when the upper
frames are installed. Note that the upper hole
remains empty until that time also.
Step 21 Rear Lower &Bottom Frame
Spark Plug Wire
with isolator,
through the
frames.
Black coil
engine lead, not
used.
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screw x 4
Step 22 Battery Tray
Four M3x20 socket cap screws need to
be installed from the inside and threaded
through the battery tray. After the fuel
tank is installed, there is no access to
hold the head of these bolts. We recommend that these bolts be bonded in
placing using L262 Red threadlock (JB
Weld or Slow Cyanoacrylate glue can be
used as an alternative) to permanently
bond these bolts in place.
#HW6117B
Landing Gear
Frame
Slide the rear frame assembly over the
landing gear frame and insert the spark
plug wire through the cutout in the left side
frame and the X frame. Insert four M3x8
socket cap screws through the lower
frames into the landing gear frame, do not
use threadlock at this time. Press the spark
plug cap over the spark plug in the engine.
Similarly, the M3x8 socket cap screws will
not be tightened until after the upper
frames are installed.
Attached to the coil is a black wire, this is
generally not used in helicopters and
should be secured out of the way with a
cable tie.
M3x20 Socket
Cap Screw x 4
#HW6112C
Battery Tray
11
Step 23 Servo & Front Lower Frame - Left Side
The fuel tank isolators are a “U” profile that need to be fitted
to the fuel tank openings on the lower front side frames.
Start at the center of one edge and work the isolator into the
frame, seating the corners. Towards the end, continue
forcing the rubber material until the ends butt against each
other. Note that the frames are different sizes and some
trimming is necessary. Starting from the left side, slide one of
the servo side frames onto the threaded studs on the battery
tray, followed by two M3x10x8 spacers and finally the Left
(with smaller fuel tank opening) front lower frame. Secure
using one M3 locknut at the rearmost stud, do not overtighten
as it could loosen the bolt on the battery tray.
#HW6112
Servo Side
Frame
M3x10x8 Short
Frame Spacers x 2
M3 Locknut
Battery Tray
Assembly
#HW6115B
Front Lower
Frame (Left)
#HI6138
Fuel Tank
Isolator
Step 24 Vertical Frame
#HW6112B
Vertical Frame
(flange rearward)
Align the front frame holes to the vertical frame
(flange goes rearward) and the upper holes of the
vertical frame to the battery tray. Insert two M3x8
socket cap screws from the front lower frame
through the vertical frame and secure using two
M3 locknuts. Insert two M3x8 button head cap
M3x10 Button
screws (for fan shroud clearance) from the
Head Screw x 2 &
vertical frame side and secure using two M3
M3 Locknut x 2
locknuts (locknuts need to be held with pliers) from
under the battery tray.
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
M3
Locknut x 2
Step 25 Fuel Tank Fittings
13mm
Following these dimensions, drill three 5mm holes for the fuel
fittings. Using a paper clip, bend the clip to insert the blind
fitting accessed through the tank opening and secure
with one M5 hex nut using threadlock. Install
one M5 hex nut on to the “J” and fitting
and secure similarly.
“J” Fitting (2)
M5 Hex
Nut (4)
Tank
Clunk
#HI6138B
Fuel Fitting Set
Tank Side
50mm
15mm
36mm
J #2
Straight
Neoprene Fuel A
Straight FittingLine
(1)
20mm
B
J-Type #1
Tank Top
Press the Neoprene fuel line onto the straight fitting
before installing into the tank. After securing the fitting
into the tank, bend the paper clip into a “J” to pull out the
line to attach the clunk. Continue to shorten the inside
fuel line until the clunk will move freely front to back
and top to bottom.
#HW6138
Fuel Tank
Set
C
Insert the M2.5x18 self tapping screw through the large cap, the rubber
stopper and the small cap. Continue tightening until the screw is just
visible through the small cap and press into the fuel tank. Tighten the
screw until the large cap starts to bend and the tank is sealed. Then
install the cable tie around the stopper assembly.
12
#HW6112
Servo Side
Frame
J Fitting
#1
To top
of tank
“J” Fitting
#2
Straight
Fitting
Step 26 Right Front Lower Frames
Starting from the right side of the battery tray, slide
the matching servo frame in place first followed by
two M3x10x8 spacers. Install the fuel tank with the
opening on the left side (the tank only fits one way)
and slide the front lower side frame over the
exposed threaded studs. Insert two M3x8 socket
cap screws through the front side frame and secure
with two M3 locknuts on the inside flange of the
vertical frame. Install one M3 locknut on the
rearmost stud at the back of the battery tray, the
front stud remains empty at this time.
M3x10x8 Short
Frame Spacers x 2
M3 Locknut
x2
M3 Locknut
#HW6115B Front
Lower Frame (Right)
#HI6138A Fuel
Tank Spacer &
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screw
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
Step 27 Fuel Tank Spacer
As you will notice the fuel tank will float between
the front lower side frames. Install the M3x10x17
fuel tank spacer on the right side frame into the
center hole with one M3x8 socket cap screw using
L242 Blue threadlock.
Step 28 Front Frame Assembly
Do not threadlock the frame
bolts until the upper frames are
installed as it is critical to have
the clutch and clutch bell assembly align perfectly. To accomplish the frames can be shifted
within the limits of the fasteners.
M4x10 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
& M4 Flat
Washer x 2
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 4
Slide the front frame assembly over the landing gear frame and insert four M3x8
socket cap screws through the lower frames into the landing gear frame, do not
use threadlock at this time. Install one M4x10 socket cap screw and M4 flat
washer into the slot in the frame, threaded into the side mounts on the engine
crankcase. Do not used threadlock until after the upper frames are installed.
13
Step 29 Clutch Bell & Short Bearing Block
#HW6045 Lower
Short Bearing
Block
Pre-Assembled
As the 15T pinion has a larger diameter than the top
surface of the clutchbell, it must be removed before the
clutch bearing is changed or installed. The pinion has a
standard right hand thread, if available use strapwrenches, grip the outside of the pinion and the clutch
bell firmly and turn anti-clockwise. The bearing must be
installed into the bearing block before it is installed onto
the clutchbell. Clean the inside race of the ball bearing
and the surface that where the clutchbell will be
installed.
#HW6013E
Clutch Bell
Assembly 15T
Apply a small amount of L262 Red threadlock to the top edge of the
clutchbell and press in place using a thin walled automotive socket that puts
pressure only on the inside race of the ball bearing. Pressing from the outside
race will damage the bearing which is not covered by warranty. Finally, re-install the pinion
being careful not to cross the threads using L242 Blue threadlock.
#HW6007
Clutch Shaft
Bearing Block
#HW6045 Lower Long
Bearing Block
(flange down)
M3x12 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
Clean the top of the pinion gear and the inside surfaces of both
the upper and lower bearings inside the clutch shaft bearing block
using alcohol. Apply a small amount of L262 Red threadlock to
the top edge of the clutch gear where it will contact the bearing.
Press the bearing block in place, firmly seating the bearing against
the top of the pinion gear. Insert two M3x12 socket cap screws
from below to attach the long bearing block to the short block. Do
not use threadlock until the gear mesh has been set.
Step 31 Upper Canopy Mount
Looking carefully at the upper frames, the longer canopy mount is
installed on the same side as the counter sunk hole above the main
gear. Install one M3x8 button head screw from the inside of the
frame using L242 Blue threadlock. Repeat for both upper frames.
#HW6110A M3x10 Button
Upper Side Head Screw
Frame
(Right)
#HW6125A
Long Upper
Canopy
Mount
14
Step 30 Clutch Shaft & Lower Long
Bearing Block
Gas SE only
Step 32
Upper Main Shaft Bearing Block - Gas SE
Install the upper main shaft bearing block into the
upper holes in the left side of the upper frame using
two M3x8 socket cap screws. Do not use threadlock
at this time, until after the main shaft is installed.
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screw x 2
#HW6042A
Triple Bearing
Block
#HW6042 Main Shaft
Bearing Block
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
M3x8 Socket Cap
Screws x 4 & M3
#HW6110A Upper
Flat Washers x 4
Side Frame (Left)
(No threadlock!)
#HW6125A Long
Canopy Mount &
M3x8 Button Head
Screw
26mm Threaded
Hex Spacer
Step 33 Upper Side Frame Assembly
Temporarily insert an
available M3x8
Socket Cap Screw
here without
threadlock until the
gear mesh has been
set.
(No threadlock!) M3x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
Install the upper main shaft bearing block with the bearing facing upwards onto the left upper side frame (notice the
countersunk hole) using two M3x8 socket cap screws. Install the clutch bell assembly with bearing blocks using four M3x8
socket cap screws and four M3 flat washers. Install one M3x8 socket cap screw only into the forward most hole in the
lower bearing block and install the 26mm hex spacer in the front of the upper frames, secured using one M3x8 socket cap
screw. Do not use any threadlock on bearing blocks or frame spacers until the gear mesh is set.
CCPM (cyclic collective pitch mixing) requires that the three servos that drive
the swashplate be the same model and more importantly the same speed and
torque rating. Digital and analog servos will fly the Predator with ease as long as
the minimum torque rating selected is 70oz/in, rated at 4.8 volts.
Step 34 Elevator Servo
Look at the upper side frame, the remaining right side will have
the slots to install the elevator servo. Having previously installed
the rubber gromments and eyelets (see on the right), install the
elevator servo with its output shaft to the rear from the inside
(outside has the countersunk hole above the main gear) of the
side frame, and secure using four M2.3x10 Phillips
servo screws and two servo mount tabs. Continue
tightening the screws until tight, then back off
1/4 turn.
#HI3205 Servo
Mount Tabs x 2
#HW6110A
Upper Side
Frame (Right)
Servo installed
from inside the
frame.
M2.3x10 Phillips
Servo Screws x 4
Servo Grommets & Eyelets
Install the four rubber gromments
that are supplied with the servo
onto the servo mounts and insert
the brass eyelets so that the flat
washer side of the eyelet is installed
against the side frame. For the
elevator servo the eyelets are
installed from the top of the servo.
15
M3x8 Socket Cap
Screws x 4 & M3
Flat Washers x 4
#HI6032 Rear
CCPM Lever
Step 35 Upper Frame Assembly
Start by installing the elevator bell crank
assembly, note that the left side ball
bearing is flush with the pivot axle. On
the right side frame, the axle extends
outward from the frame to attach the
elevator arm. Install four M3x8 socket
cap screws into the upper main shaft
bearing block, front hex spacer and
forewardmost lower bearing block.
Install four M3x8 socket cap screws into
the clutchbell blocks with M3 flat
washers. Do not use any threadlock at
this time, these need to be loose until the
main shaft is installed and after the gear
mesh has been set.
R
(No threadlock!)
L
#HW6110A
Upper Side
Frames (Left &
Right)
M3x8 Socket
Cap Screws x 4
(No threadlock!)
Step 36 Front CCPM Bellcranks
Starting on the right side, insert one M3x30 socket cap screw through the right bellcrank (look at the left photo carefully)
on the side with the molded elevator plastic arm. Slide one stepped spacer with the step towards the ball bearing and
position the 26mm threaded spacer between the upper side frames in the rearmost hole (1200 CCPM setup) and secure
the right bellcrank assembly. Assemble the left side bellcrank in the same way, do not apply the threadlock until after the
gear mesh has been set and tighten into the left side of the upper frames.
#HI6031
CCPM
Cyclic
Bellcrank Set
#CNLR1014
Short Ball x 2
M3x30 Socket
Cap Screw x 2
26mm Threaded
Spacer
#CNLR1020
Medium Ball x 4
Stepped
Spacer x 2
#CNBB37
M3x7 Ball Bearing x 4
Right Side
Bellcrank
The technique to remove the two M3x30 socket cap
screws without damaging the 26mm spacer is to
slowly loosen each screw 1/8 turn at a time, changing from side to side to evenly unload the threaded
spacer. If you notice one side spinning the spacer,
tighten the opposite side again and repeat.
16
R
L
Step 37 Rear CCPM Arm
Align and press the rear ccpm
arm onto the exposed axle with
the arm pointing to the bottom of
the upper side frames. This is a
tight fit, light tapping with a plastic
hammer will help here. Once the
arm is seated, install the M3x10
button head screw to secure it in
place.
M3x10 Button
Head Screw
#CNLR1014
Short Steel Ball
Step 38 Constant Drive Gear Assembly
The constant drive autorotation unit simply slides apart, pull the inner hub assembly up and out from the outer hub. Install
the inner tail gear by aligning the four countersunk holes in the top of the inner gear with the auto hub inserted from below
using four M3x6 flat head screws and L242 Blue threadlock. Tighten the bolts in numbered order. Assemble the main gear
in the same fashion with the main gear installed on top of the autohub, notice there is an alignment groove. Gas SE kits use
an M15x18x0.20 shim between the inner and outer hubs.
#HI6058M
Autohub - Inner
Gear CT Drive
4
2
1
3
2
#HI6058N
Autohub - Outer
Gear CT Drive
3
1
#HI6058H
Machined Main
Gear 88T - CT
Drive
#HI6058B Machined Inner Gear
70T - CT Drive
M3x6 Flat Head
Screws x 4
4
M3x6 Flat Head
Screws x 4
#HI6064D
M15x18x0.20
Sprague
Shim
Gas SE only
4
2
1
3
#HI6064A
Autohub - Inner
Gear Sprague CT
Drive
#HI6064B
Autohub - Outer
Gear Sprague CT
Drive
4
1
2
3
17
Step 39 Auto Hub Spacer
Step 40 Main Gear Pin #HW6001 M3x15 Steel Pin &
M4x4 Set Screws x 2
Do not remove the
two set screws
that are already
installed in the top
auto hub, these are
factory installed.
#HW6054
M10x14x3.5 Spacer
Mark the set screws that
secure the pin.
Before the main gear assembly can be installed this spacer must be positioned
in the recess of the lower bearing block assembly, it will simply self align in the
block. Slide the main shaft through the upper bearing block, the constant drive main gear assembly, the spacer and finally
through the lower bearing block assembly. Look carefully through the two open M4 threaded holes in the top hub and align
with the hole in the main shaft. Insert and press the M3x15 steel pin through the hub and roughly center it in the main
shaft. Using a permanent marker, mark both holes that will lock the pin in place. Insert the M4x4 set screws in each side
and tighten them equally, using L242 Blue threadlock. These do not need to be torqued down.
Step 41 Bottom Collar
Inspect the bottom collar, make sure that the reduced
step diameter is towards the ball bearing. Slide the
bottom collar against the bearing and insert two M3x6
flat head cap screws using L242 Blue threadlock.
Now that the main shaft is installed, remove the
four screws that secure the upper main shaft
bearing block and the forwardmost lower bearing
block screw and one at a time and apply L242
Blue threadlock and tighten in place.
Step 42 Bottom Collar - Gas SE
Slide the flat side of the thrust bearing spacer against the
bearing, followed by the larger ID race, apply grease to the
ball race and and finally the smaller ID race. Slide the bottom
collar with the flat side towards the thrust bearing and insert
two M3x6 flat head cap screws using L242 Blue threadlock.
#HW6054 Bottom Collar &
M3x6 Flat Head Screws x 2
Gas SE only
#HW6054 Bottom Collar &
M3x6 Flat Head Screws x 2
18
Offset step
away from
thrust bearing.
thin
race
(upper)
larger ID
#HW6045A Thrust
Bearing Spacer
#CNBB1018T
Main Shaft Thrust
Bearing
thick race
(lower)
smaller ID
Step 43 Mast Stopper
#HW6053 Main Shaft
Start one M2.6x8 socket cap screw
into the mast stopper. Slide the mast
stopper
onto the main shaft, ensure the
#HW6054 Mast
raised
lip is towards the bearing. Pull
Stopper & M2.6x8
up on the main shaft to remove any
Socket Cap Screw
vertical play, press the mast stopper
down and tighten in place using L242
Blue threadlock.
If not already
done, remove
and apply L242
Blue threadlock
x 4 and tighten
in place.
Step 44 Mast Stopper & Upper Thrust Bearing - Gas SE
If not already done, remove and apply L242 Blue
threadlock to the upper main shaft bearing block
screws and the forwardmost screw on the lower
bearing block. Tighten in place.
#HW6045A Thrust Bearing Spacer
#HW6054 Mast
Stopper & M2.6x8
Socket Cap Screw
The Gas SE includes the triple upper bearing block.
Slide the flat side of the thrust bearing spacer
against the bearing, followed by the larger ID race,
apply grease to the ball race and and finally the
smaller ID race. Start the M2.6x8 socket cap
screw into the mast stopper. Slide the mast stopper
onto the main shaft, ensure the raised lip is towards
the bearing. Pull up on the main shaft to remove
any vertical play, press the mast stopper down and
tighten in place using L242 Blue threadlock.
Gas SE only
thick
race
(upper)
smaller ID
thin race
(lower)
larger ID
#CNBB1018T Main Shaft
Thrust Bearing
Step 45 Starting Shaft and Hex Coupler
The gas kits include the regular starting shaft and hex coupler as in all the Predator kits to align the clutch to the clutchbell.
Clean both the starting shaft and the inside race of the bearing inside the clutchbell and the inside race of the top starting
shaft bearing. Apply a small amount of L262 Red threadlock positioned just above where the bottom clutchbell bearing will
sit on the starting shaft. Slide the starting shaft up through the bearing
blocks. Apply a small amount of L242 Blue threadlock to the top of
the starting shaft and slide the hex coupler in place aligning
the flat spot with one of the holes. Apply L242 Blue
#HW6002 Hex
threadlock to the the two M4x4 set screws and tighten in
place.
Coupler & M4x4 Set
The hex starting system has been successfully used with
the Z231H engine but significant wear on the hex coupler
is common. Regular replacement of the hex coupler is
normal and is not covered by warranty. The pull start
should be used for the first start of the day. Afterwards
using a heavy duty electric starter is possible.
Screws x 2
#HW6005
Starting Shaft
The hex starting is not recommended for the
Z260H engine as damage can occur to your
starting equipment and helicopter components.
19
Step 46 Main Gear & Clutchbell Gear Mesh
M3x8
Socket Cap
Screws x 8
& M3 Flat
Washers x 8
M3x12 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
Loosen the eight M3x8 socket cap screws
that hold the clutchbell assembly and the
two M3x12 socket cap screws between
the upper and lower bearing block assemblies. Cut a strip of regular copy paper
12mm x 50mm and thread between the
main gear and the clutchbell gear. Press
the clutch bell towards the main gear and
tighten up the eight bolts. Proper gear
mesh is achieved when the paper strip will
pass between the gears without ripping or
damaging the paper strip, but no looser.
One at a time, remove each of the M3x8 and M3x12 socket cap screws, apply L242 Blue
threadlock and tighten in place. After completion, you should still be able to thread the
paper strip through the gears. If not, repeat this procedure.
Step 47 Frame Spacers
#HW6127B Gas Frame Spacer Set
14mm Servo
17mm Rear Frame
Frame Spacers
Spacers x 4
10mm Gas Frame
X Frame x 2
Spacers x 10
26mm
Threaded
Hex Spacer
22mm Threaded
Hex Spacer
Step 48 Clutch & Clutchbell Alignment
Over the next few steps the upper and lower frames
will be joined. The frames have the necessary slots to
allow for precise alignment between the clutch and the
clutchbell. The goal is to have the clutch sit parallel and
centered in the clutchbell. It is best to sight the bottom
edge of the clutch with the aluminum clutchbell in both
fore-aft and left-right directions to ensure remains
parallel when all the fasteners have been tightened. It
may be necessary to further loosen the frame fasteners.
Parallel
Now that the gear mesh has been set, go back and remove all
the upper frame screws one screw at a time, apply L242 Blue
threadlock and tighten in place. These include the M3x8
frame screws, M3x30 bellcrank screws and the front hex
spacer screws.
20
26mm Threaded
Spacers x 2
Ensure that the correct
spacers are used in the
correct locations when
assembling the upper and
lower frame assemblies.
Rear frame
spacers are
stacked.
Step 49 Upper and Lower Frame Assembly
Position the upper and lower frame assemblies, aligning the starter shaft in the clutch bell to the torrington bearing in the
clutch. While holding this in place, insert the M3x25 socket cap screws on both sides through the servo frames, position the
14mm standoffs and thread into the 26mm round threaded spacer into the forwardmost hole. The 22mm threaded hex
spacer must be positioned at the top of the vertical frame and held with pliers while installing the screws. Install the rear
M3x35 socket cap screws for each side through the top lower frame holes, position the 17mm frame spacers followed by
the 10mm frame spacers and thread into the bearing block between the frames. Insert two M3x35 socket cap screws
through the lower holes, through the X frame and position two X frame spacers along with two 10mm spacers, finally
threading into one 26mm round threaded frame spacer.
26mm
Threaded
Spacer
14mm Servo
Frame
Spacers x 4
10+17mm
Frame Spacer
x4
M3x25
Socket Cap
Screws x 4
10+X Frame
Spacer x 2
M3x35 Socket Cap
Screws x 6
22mm Threaded
Hex Spacer
Up to this point we have not used threadlock on any of the fasteners. Take the time now to align the clutch to the clutchbell
as accurately as possible. The upper and lower frames have been slotted to allow this adjustment. Once the clutch is
parallel to the clutchbell both fore-aft and left-right, test by slowly pulling the starter cord. Watch as the clutch turns to
make sure that it does not turn the clutchbell at any point. All the fasteners should be tightened by this point, both the frame
spacers and the M3x8 socket cap screws to attach the lower frames to the landing gear frame. Start and remove each of
the frame spacer bolts one at a time, apply L242 Blue threadlock and tighten in place. After completion, repeat the test to
verify that the clutch is still in perfect alignment. Remember to threadlock the M4 engine bolts also.
Step 50 Pushrod Assembly
Pushrod A & C have been assembled already and are included with the rotor head. These pushrods should be removed
and checked against the table and sized if necessary to properly fit the steel balls. Build the remaining pushrods following
the table and remember that most of the pushrods will have ball links that attach in opposite directions from each other,
check the location of the balls before installing the pushrod and ensure that the length remains the same. *The throttle
pushrod needs to be shorted from 104mm to 94mm taking 5mm off each end to be able to achieve the 112mm length.
Circle Mark
presses over
steel ball.
All pushrods are measured
center to center.
Ball links install
only in one
direction.
Location
Washout to flybar (2)
Bell mixer to seesaw (2)
Bell mixer to swashplate (2)
Front CCPM to servos (4)
Elevator arm to servo
Throttle arm to servo
Front CCPM to swashplate (2)
Pushrod
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
Rod
24
15
80
104
80
104*
35
Length
47
26
99
120
100
112
56.5
21
Step 51 Swashplate
Starting with the inside race, apply L242
Blue threadlock to the two long silver steel
balls and attach them across from each
other. The balls need to be started by hand
at one of the holes in the outer swashplate
rim and then tightened with an M2.0 hex
key through the same hole. Insert two
short steel balls across from each other
using L242 Blue threadlock. Intall three
short steel balls on the outside ring in
either the 1200 degree (normal) or 1400
degree positions using threadlock.
#HW6146
Dual Bearing
Swashplate
Assembly
#CNLR1014
Short Steel Ball
x5
#HI3152C
Washout
Assembly
#CNLR1019 Long
Steel Ball x 2
Step 52 Washout Assembly
#HI3152A
Radius Link
& Pin
#CNLR1020
Medium Steel
Ball x 2
#CNBB37 M3x7
Ball Bearing x 4
#CNLR1003
M3x5x0.5 Micro
Washer x 2
#HI6205
M3x5x3 Steel
Spacer x 2
Step 53 Rotorhead Attachment
Slide the swashplate followed by the washout
unit (make sure the screw is on the left side
of the main shaft), the washout guide and the
rotor head onto the main shaft. Insert the
M4x22 shoulder socket cap screw through
the rotor head hub and main shaft and secure
with one M4 locknut, torque down the screw.
Apply L242 Blue threadlock to the M2.5x8
socket cap screws and tighten into the
bottom of the rotor head block to clamp
against the main shaft, do not overtorque.
Position the washout guide against the collar
and align one hole to the vertical slot in the
rotor head. Apply L242 Blue threadlock to
the M3x4 set screws and evenly tighten set
screws in place.
22
#HW6001 M3x16
Button Head Screw x 2
Apply a small amount of slow cyanoacrylate (Slo CA) glue Attach the
two medium steel balls to the end of the
washout control arms, do not overtighten
the balls into the plastic. Press one M3x7
ball bearing into one side followed by one
M3x5x3 spacer and the second ball
bearing from the other side. Insert one
M3x15 button head screw from the
hollowed side of the washout arm, slide
one M3x5x0.5 micro washer and apply a
small amount of Slo CA glue to the
exposed threads and thread into the
washout hub, again being carefull not to
overtighten the screw. When correctly
assembled the screw is positioned on the
left side (see photo) of the main shaft.
#HW6001 M4x22
Shoulder Socket
Cap Screw & M4
Locknut
M2.5x8 Socket
Cap Screw x 2
#HW6053
Main Shaft
#HI6153 Washout
Guide & M3x4 Set
Screw x 2
Step 54 CCPM Radio Review and Setup
The next section covers setting the pushrods and servos that will control the helicopter. It is important at this time that you
review the instructions provided with your radio that control the ccpm mixing for the 3 cyclic servos. Reviewing the radio
instructions will assist you in becoming familiar with the functions that affect the individual servos and affect the interaction
of the three servos working together to control the swashplate.
Radio Setup Procedure
1. It is best to choose a new model memory (if available) and use the Reset feature to remove any previous settings or
mixes, remember this usually also returns the radio configuration to single servo.
2. Locate and activate the swashplate mixing for 1200 ccpm (most manufacturers set single servo by default).
3. Return both the aileron and elevator subtrims to neutral along with any hover pitch knobs to neutral.
4. Adjust the servo reversing switch to make sure the servos are moving in the correct direction, together as the collective
stick is raised. If the servo reversing does not correct the movement of a servo, there is always a travel adjustment
function inside the swashplate mixing menu. Change the default setting to be opposite, for example, if set to +60 then
change to -60 and change any servos that are affected.
5. After each servo horn is mounted, it is critical that the horn be 900 degrees to the respective pushrod.
The goal in the end after all the servos are mounted is to have the swashplate sit level or at 900 degrees to the main shaft
and have the swashplate move equally fore, aft and side to side. The swashplate will also travel up and down as the three
servos work together. This will result when the radio setup procedure has been followed and the servo centering for the 3
CCPM servos set very, very accurately to eliminate pitch change when moving the aileron or elevator sticks.
Step 55 Front and Rear CCPM Pushrod Setup
Before proceeding, the three CCPM servos should be identical in speed and torque. Install the rubber grommets and
eyelets from the bottom of the servo tabs. Install the two front CCPM servos from the outside of the servo side frames
using eight M2.3x12 Phillips screws from the top of the servo and securing using four plastic servo mount tabs. The tabs
need to be held with pliers from the inside of the servo frame. The steel balls installed on the servo horns must be positioned at a 20mm radius from the center of the servo. Install two ultra short M2 steel balls to the bottom of each servo
horn, 1800 apart and secure with two M2 hex nuts. Install one ultra short steel ball on the bottom of the elevator servo
horn, positioned at 20mm radius from the servo center and secure with one M2 hex nut. Attach pushrods D & E and adjust
the servo horn subtrims to level the swashplate.
Pushrod D 120mm (center to center) x 4
Pushrod E 100mm (center to center) x 1
Parallel
Be carefull when attaching the ball links, to
ensure they are attached in the correct direction.
900
E
Par
alle
l
#HW6192A
Lower Linkage
Rod Set
D
#HI6145 Ball Link Set
(26 long & 4 short)
#CNLR1018 Ultra
Short Steel Ball x 5
& M2 Hex Nut x 5
Optional #CN2288
Metal Servo Arm
Pack
23
Step 56 Idle Adjustment Screw & Carburetor Spring
The idle adjustment screw is used to limit the travel of the throttle
valve inside the carburetor. Turn the adjustment screw until the point
is flush to the bottom of the rotary lever, this will be the throttle stop
position. The spring is already installed on the carburetor and should
be left in place. The spring provides the necessary tension along the
length of the throttle lever axle to prevent wearing of the shaft
prematurely. Install the carburetor to the engine crankcase using the
screws and gaskets included with the engine with the primer bubble
Idle Screw, position flush to
facing rearward and the fuel fittings on top.
bottom of throttle lever.
Step 57 Throttle Pushrod & Carburetor Arm
Before the carburetor arm is tightened to the to the carburetor throttle shaft, the pushrod will be attached and adjusted to
achieve a linear geometry that will result in a 900 degree angle between the pushrod and both the servo horn and the
machined carburetor arm. Install one steel ball into the carburetor arm positioned in the center hole (13.5mm from the
center of the arm) and the servo horn at 13.5mm, using L242 Blue threadlock. If you have not already done so, shorten the
throttle pushrod from 104mm to 94mm by cutting 5mm off each end. Install the ball links and set pushrod F to 112mm
center to center. Move the collective stick to the center and press the servo horn onto the servo close to the final angle.
Slide the carburetor arm over the throttle lever shaft and attach Pushrod F. Using the subtrim on the throttle channel, fine
tune the servo horn to achieve the 900 degree setting. Looking through the venturi, move the valve to the 450 position and
lightly tighten the M3x4 set screw on the side of the carburetor arm. Check the end points and continue to adjust the set
screw postion until the carburetor will move through the entire throttle range with out binding. Once complete, firmly hold
the external throttle lever, remove and apply L242 Blue threadlock to the M3x4 set screw and tighten in place.
900 Degrees
900 Degrees
Optional #CN2288 #CNLR1018 Ultra
Metal Servo Arm
Short Steel Ball &
Pack
M2 Hex Nut
#HW6192C
Pushrod F 112mm
(center to center)
Step 58 Fuel Lines
Of the three lines to the fuel tank, both the primer
return line and the atmosphere line can use the 1/8”
ID fuel line. The fuel pickup line on the Z231H
engine should use the same 1/8” ID fuel line but use
the larger 3/16” ID fuel line on the Z260H engine.
The atmosphere line should run from the top of the
fuel tank, upward and looped near the top of the
vertical frame and then routed and tied to one of the
landing gear spacers, making sure that the fuel line
extends 1/4” past the plastic struts.
24
#CNLR1018 Ultra
Short Steel Ball &
M2 Hex Nut
#HW6192B
Carburetor Arm &
M3x4 Set Screw
Primer Return Line
Tygon fuel line not Fuel Pickup Line
included.
Atmosphere
Line
Optimal Throttle Arm Positioning.
Following is a method of achieving
maximum deflection range in the
throttle control. This is the recommended setup to get top performance out of your gas powered
Predator.
In the closed position it will be difficult to
reach the set screw for the throttle arm.
You should follow these guidelines for
optimal throttle performance in the
Predator Gasser.
The ball for the throttle lever must be
placed in the furthest hole from the
center for best deflection.
Set the throttle to the full closed
position.The control ball on the throttle
arm should be aligned as pictured
aligned with the brass ball in the bulb
plate.
This is the throttle control pointer plate.
When the set screw is tightned, the
throttle arm moves this plate.
Grab the throttle pointer and move it
with your thumb until exposing the set
screw. Prepare your index finger to
hold the position of the throttle arm.
After exposing the set screw carefully
hold the position of the throttle pointer
and arm in order to tighten the set
screw.
Try testing the method of positioning the
arm. Tighten set screw with locktite only
when position is final.
The halfway point on the throttle is
found by aligning the flat long end of the
throttle pointer with the bolt as shown.
25
Step 58A Radio Switch Mount
M2.3x12 Self Tap
Screws x 4 &
#HI3205 Servo
Mount Tabs x 2
#CN2290
Switch Mount
Position the switch mount plate in the empty servo
opening. Install the switch and insert two M2.3x12
Phillips self tapping screws through the left side and
start the servo mount tabs. Slide the plate in place and
secure the right side screws. Normally, the switch is
off in the rear position.
Step 59 Upper Rotorhead Pushrods
Attach pushrod A to the washout control arms and
pushrod C from the single side of the bell mixer down
the to the long ball on the inner race of the swashplate,
being careful when connecting ball links to install the
link in the correct direction. When the collective stick
is centered the blade pitch should be set to 00 degrees
and the bell mixer, flybar arms, washout arms and
swashplate should be parallel. It should be noted that a
perfect parallel geometry is not possible but get as
close as to parallel as possible within one half ball link
rotation.
#HW6001 M5x35
Socket Cap Screws x 2
& M5 Locknut x 2
#HI6145 Ball Link Set
(26 long & 4 short)
Parallel
#HI6192 Upper Linkage
Rod Set (6 rods)
Pushrod A 47mm (center
to center) x 2
Pushrod G 56.5mm
(center to center) x 2
Main blade grips shown
at 00 degrees.
Pitch Range Settings
The following table should be used as a guide while
setting up the pitch curves in the different flight
modes on the transmitter.
Mode
N
1
2
H
26
Description
Normal
Idle Up 1
Idle Up 2
Throttle Hold
Low
-6
-10
-10
-10
Mid
0
0
0
0
High
+10
+10
+10
+12
Pushrod B 26mm (center
to center) x 2
Pushrod C 99mm (center
to center) x 2
When attaching all pushrods,
make sure that same length
pushrods are actually the same
length from the beginning
otherwise it will be difficult
later to figure out where the
source of the linkage problems.
#HI6122 Landing Gear
Plastic Struts x 2
~ 1 1/2”
[37mm]
M3x5 Set Screws x 4
Step 60 Landing Gear Assembly
Assemble the metal landing skids
onto the plastic struts, noting that the
correct direction is to have the struts
sweep forward. Position the rear
strut at 37mm from the end of the
skid and secure the M3x5 set screw.
Leave the front strut loose for now.
#HW6123 Landing Gear
Metal Skids x 2
Step 61 Landing Gear Spacers
Measure and drill new holes spaced 60mm
apart for the landing struts. Starting with
the rear landing strut, insert two M3x35
socket cap screws with M3x11 flat
washers from the bottom of the plastic
strut, through the landing gear spacers.
Apply L242 Blue threadlock to the exposed threads and thread into the landing
gear frame. Align the front struts and
attach the bolts and spacers. Remember to
insert and secure the remaining two M3x5
set screws to secure the front landing
struts to the skids.
#HW6127C
M3x15x19 Landing
Gear Spacers x 4
M3x35 Socket Cap Screws x 4
& M3x11 Flat Washers x 4
Step 62 Tail Transmission
The tail transmission output shaft is
already assembled. We suggest that
you disassemble the components and
carefully bond the bearings in place
using L262 Red threadlock. Starting
with the M5x10 collar positioned on
the middle flat spot on the shaft. Slide
one M5x7x2 spacer and M5x11 ball
bearing on the short end and carefully
bond the bearing. Slide another
spacer and finally the torque tube
fitting and its M4x5 set screw using
L242 Blue threadlock. Slide the gear
and position and bond the front
bearing using the transmission for
alignment.
#CNBB511 M5x11
Ball Bearing x 2
#HI6060 Front Tail
Transmission
#HW3057
Tail Bevel
Gear M3x5 Set
Insert the M3x5 set screw into the bevel
gear but leave this loose until after the
transmission has been installed and the
tail gear mesh is set.
Screw
#HW6059 Tail #HW6059 M5x10
Transmission Output
Collar, M5x7x2 Spacers
Shaft
x 2 & M3x5 Set Screw
#HI6154 Torque
Tube Drive Coupler
& M4x5 Set Screw
27
#HW6063BS
Stainless Steel
Torque Drive Shaft
Step 63 Tail Boom and Torque Drive Shaft
The tail transmission and tail gear box have the same circular
mounts that engage the tail boom and lock it in position.
#HI6060 26mm
Apply a few drops of light oil (Triflow) to both bearings on
Threaded Hex
assembled torque drive shaft and apply a small amount of
liquid soap to the o-rings. Looking at the bearing supports,
Spacers x 3
press the drive shaft into the tail boom so that the shaft
keeps the supports together. If pressed in the wrong direction, the support will disassemble. Generally center the tail
drive shaft inside the tail boom. Press three threaded hex
spacers into one half, slide and position the tail boom flush
the to the front edge and close with the second tail transmis#HW6062B
sion half.
Tailboom 825mm
Step 64 Tail Output Shaft & Gear
The tail output shaft has an M2
through hole and an M3 threaded hole
in one end of the shaft. Insert one
M3x6 set screw into the end using
L242 Blue threadlock and tighten until
the set screw stops. Slide the tail
output gear (smaller 13 teeth) onto the
tail output shaft with the gear teeth
towards the solid end and align the
hole in the gear to the hole in the
shaft. Secure with one M3x4 set
screw using L242 Blue threadlock.
Slide the spacer tube onto the tail
output shaft and position against the
(larger 14 teeth) gear. Then slide on
the two M5x7 washers before sliding
on the ball bearing (5x13x4).
#CNBB513
Ball Bearing
5x13x4
M3x6 set
screw
M3x6 set
screw
M5x7
Washer (2)
#HW6073
Tail Output
Shaft
#HW6075A
14 Tooth - Tail
Input Gear
(larger)
28
#CNBB511
Ball Bearing
5x11x4
#HW6074 Tail
Spacer Tube
#HI6054 Torque Tube Coupler
& M4x5 Set Screw
Step 65 Tail Input Shaft & Gear
The tail output shaft has an M2 through hole and an M3
threaded hole in one end of the shaft. Insert one M3x6
set screw into the end using L242 Blue threadlock and
tighten until the set screw stops. Slide the tail input gear
(silver) onto the tail input shaft with the gear teeth flush
to the hollow end and align the hole in the gear to the
hole in the shaft. Secure with one M3x4 set screw using
L242 Blue threadlock. Slide two M5x13 ball bearings
and the torque tube coupler onto the tail shaft and install
temporarily into one half of the tail gearbox (positioning
the bearings) and secure the M4x5 set screw when the
torque coupler and the silver gear are flush to the
bearings. Remove the assembly, press the bearings
together and apply a small amount of L262 Red
threadlock on the shaft in the final positions of the
bearings. Slide the bearings back in place and put back
into the gearbox half to allow the threadlock to dry.
#HW6075A
13 Tooth - Tail
Output Gear
(smaller)
#CNBB513 M5x13
Ball Bearing x 2
#HW6075
Silver Gear - Tail
Input Shaft, Clockwise Teeth
M3x4 Set
Screw
#HW6070 Tail
Input Shaft
Step 66 Tail Gear Mesh
#CNBB513 M5x13
Ball Bearing
Apply a small amount of L262 Red threadlock to the
shaft ahead of the spacer on the tail output shaft and
slide one M5x13 bearing against the spacer. Remove
the tail input shaft and position both the input and output
shafts into the right side of the tail gearbox. Apply a
liberal amount grease to cover the gears.
#HI6078 Tail
Gearbox Set
Tail gear mesh is controlled by the gears. Initially the
tail mesh will be tight until the tail gears wear in.
Grease to be used inside the tail gearbox should be a teflon, light
lithium or silicon type of grease commonly found in a hobbyshop
for R/C cars. Do not use any grease on any other gears.
M3 Locknut x
3
#HI6078 Tail
Gearbox Set
R
Step 67 Tail Gearbox Assembly
M3x10
Socket Cap
Screw
Apply a small amount of L262 Red threadlock
to the end of the tail output shaft and slide one
M5x11 ball bearing in place flush with the
gear. Slide the tail boom into the left half,
ensuring that the hole in the tailboom half
engages the boss in the gearbox. Press the
left tail gear box half to close the gearbox and
insert one M3x10, M3x15 and M3x20 socket
cap screws from the left half. Secure using
three M3 locknuts.
#CNBB511
M5x11 Ball
Bearing
L
M3x15 Socket
Cap Screw (mid
M3x20 Socket Cap
top)
Screw (mid bottom)
Step 68 Tail Pitch Plate
Apply a small amount of slow cyanoacrylate glue to the
lip on the brass tube and insert into the flat side of the
pitch plate (the molded stand off is flush to the bearing)
and press firmly in place. Apply a small drop of L262
Red threadlock at the joint of the pitch plate and the
tube and slide one M6x10 ball bearing, followed by the
pitch plate housing. Slide the second M6x10 bearing
and apply the L262 Red threadlock with a needle to the
joint between the bearing and the brass tube. Allow the
threadlock to cure. Slide the M6x9x0.35 flat washer
and the lock ring to secure the assembly together.
Using slow cyanoacrylate or JB Weld bond the lock
ring to the brass tube.
#HI3089 Tail
Pitch Ball Links
x 2 & M2x8 Pin
x2
Make sure that the tail output shaft is
mounted on the right side of the helicopter.
M6x9x0.35
#CNBB610 M6x10
Ball Bearing x 2 Steel Washer
Lock
Ring
#HI3087A
Pitch Plate
Extreme care must be taken to avoid damaging the bearing by
leaking adhesive inside. This is not covered by warranty.
29
Step 69 Tail Bellcrank
#HW6001 M3x14
Special Shoulder
Screw
Press one M3x7 flange bearing into
one side of the tail bellcrank, followed
by one M3x5x3 spacer and the second
M3x7 flange bearing from the other
side. Slide the assembled pitch plate
onto the tail output shaft.
#CNBB37F M3x7
Flange Bearing x 2
#HI6102 M3x5x2
Spacer
#CNLR1020
Medium
Steel Ball
#CNLR1003 M3x5x0.5
Micro Washer
Step 70 Tail Rotor Blade Grips
Apply a small drop of L262
Red threadlock on the tail hub
near the bearing stop. Slide
one M4x10 ball bearing
followed by the plastic tail
rotor grip. Look carefully at
the thrust bearing and slide the
thin race (larger inside diameter) followed by the ball race,
remember to grease the ball
race, followed by the thick
race (smaller inside diameter)
inside the tail grip. Slide one
M3x5x0.5 micro washer and
the M3x9 ball bearing. Apply a
drop of L262 Red threadlock
to the threads and tighten the
M3 locknut until the tail grip
rotates smoothly without
binding. Repeat for the other
side.
#HI3087A Pitch
Plate Assembly
#HW3098A
Steel Tail Rotor
Hub
#CNBB410
M4x10 Ball
Bearing x 2
#HI6102 Tail
Bellcrank Lever
#CNLR1013 Short
Steel Ball x 2
#CNLR1003
M3x5x0.5 Micro
Washer
thin race
(first)
larger inside
diameter
Step 71 Tail Rotor Hub Assembly
Carefully form the threads in the tail gear box
mount for the tail bellcrank using an available M3
socket cap screw. Align the hole in the tail bell
crank to the steel ball on the tail pitch plate and
insert the M3x14 special socket cap screw
through the bellcrank and slide on one M3x5x0.5
micro washer. Apply a small amount of slow
cyanoacrylate glue to the newly formed threads in
the bellcrank mount and tighten the screw until
there is no play. Slide the tail rotor grip assembly
onto the tail output shaft, ensuring that the steel
ball is on the leading edge of the grip as it would
rotate into the downwash of the main rotor
blades. Align the hole in the hub with the indent in
the shaft and secure using one M3x4 set screw
using L242 Blue threadlock. Attach the tail pitch
links to the steel balls on the tail blade grips.
#HI6096 Tail
Blade Grips x 2
#CNBB39 M3x9
Ball Bearing x 2
M3 Locknut x
2
thick race
(second)
small inside
diameter
#CNBB49T
M4x9 Thrust
Ball Bearing
#HW6001 M3x14
Special Shoulder
Screw
M3x4 Set
Screw
Steel ball mounted closest
to the gearbox.
Gearbox Bottom View
30
Step 72 Carbon Tail Rotor Blades - Gas SE
The carbon tail rotor blades will not fit the tail
rotor grips without trimming the ends. Attach the
two rotor blades together and grind 3-4mm off the
end of both blades as shown.
#HW6204
M3x10x1.5
Spacers x 4
#HI6099 95mm Tail
Rotor Blades x 2
Gas SE only
Grind 3-4mm off
the end of the
blades.
CN261056
105mm Rotortech
Tail Blades x 2
#HW6001 M3x18
Special Socket Cap
Screw
Step 73 Mount Tail Blades
Slide one M3x18 special socket cap screw from the inside of the tail rotor
grip and position the first M3x10x1.5 spacer, insert the tail blade, another
spacer and secure using one M3 locknut from the molded recess on the
outside.When correctly installed, the leading edge of the tail rotor blades
will rotate into the down wash from the main rotor blades.
Tail blade tension should be set tight enough that the rotor blade
will stay straight on its own, but will pivot easily when the blade
tip is moved.
M3
Locknut
After flying the model, if a vibration is noticed on the horizontal
fin, the complete tail rotor assembly can be removed with the
hub and further balanced using a High Point balancer.
M3x10 Flat Head
Screw x 2
M3x8 Socket Cap
Screw x 2
#HW6204
M3x10x1.5
Spacer x 2
#HW6001 M3x18
Special Socket Cap
Screw
Step 74 Tail Boom Transmission Mount
M3x12 Socket Cap
Screw x 4 & M3
Locknut x 4
Insert four M3x12 socket cap screws
through the tail transmission mount over the
tail boom (make sure the tail rotor is on the
right side when viewed from behind) and
secure with four M3 locknuts inserted into
the molded recesses. Look at the threaded
hex spacers and make sure that they are
flush on both sides of the mount. Slide the
completed tail boom assembly, aligning the
three holes on the upper side frames and
roughly position the tail bevel gear on the
inner gear. Insert two M3x10 flat head cap
screws and four M3x8 socket caps screws
using L242 Blue threadlock. Do not overtighten these bolts!
31
Step 75 Tail Bevel Gear Mesh
M3x5 Set Screw
Now that the tail transmission is in place the tail bevel gear mesh
must be set. Rotate the tail transmission shaft until the flat spot is
visible through the hole in the bevel gear. Apply L242 Blue threadlock
to the M3x5 set screw and insert into the bevel gear. Slide the gear
forward until there is zero backlash but the inner gear does not bind.
The initial flights will wear in the gears, eliminating any high spots that
may be noticeable when turned by hand.
Make sure the set screw is
positioned over the flat spot in
the tail transmission shaft.
As a reminder, the main gear, pinion gear and
tail bevel gear should NOT be lubricated! Any
type of lubricant will attract dirt that will
ultimately damage the helicopter gears.
Carbon Tube
Step 76 Carbon Tail Pushrod
End Cap x 2
Insert and mark the position where the end cap overlaps one end
of the carbon pushrod. Remove and sand through the glossy
surface up to the marked position. Sand or score the inside
surface of the end cap. Mix up JB Weld or slow Epoxy and bond
only one end cap onto the carbon pushrod. Thread one Grey ball
link onto the M2 pushrod, inserting the rod 10mm into the link.
Apply L242 Blue theadlock to the pushod and thread into the end
cap until it stops. Allow it to cure overnight for highest strength.
#CNLR1000S
Tail Ball Link Grey x 2
#HW6065 Tail
Pushrod Set
M2 Pushrod
#HI6080 Rudder
Mounts x 2
M2.5x12 Self
Tapping
Screws x 4
Servo Output
on the right.
Step 77 Rudder Servo Mount
Insert the rubber grommets and the eyelets from the bottom of the
servo. Attach the two mounts to the servo from behind the mounting
tabs with the servo output shaft on the right side using four M2.5x12
self tapping screws. Attach the matching rudder mount clamps using
two M2.5x12 socket cap screws at the pivot ends, notice the bolts
only go in one way. Curve the mount liners around the tail boom and
trim 1-2mm from the length for a good fit. A slight gap is preferred.
M2.5x12 Socket Cap
Screw x 2
Insert one steel ball into the servo arm at 12-14mm
from the servo center and secure with one M2 hex
nut. Position the servo horn on the servo at 900
M2.5x12
degrees with the transmitter trim in the center. Wrap
Socket Cap
the liners and insert two M2.5x12 socket cap screws
Screw x 2
to secure the rudder mount to the tail boom next to
the tail transmission. Continue tightening until the
liners are seated but the rudder servo can still be
Optional #CN2288
moved. After the rudder pushrod is installed the
Metal Servo Arm
exact position will be set.
Pack
32
Tail Mount
Liner x 2
#HI6080
Rudder Mount
Clamps x 2
900
#CNLR1018 Ultra Short
Steel Ball & M2 Hex Nut
Step 78 Carbon Tail Support Struts - Gas SE
Insert and mark the position where the machined end
fittings overlap the ends of carbon struts. Remove and
sand through the glossy surface up to the marked position
and ensure that the fittings will easily slide over the tubes.
Sand or score the inside surface of the end fittings. Mix
up JB Weld or slow Epoxy and bond the fittings in place
making sure one end fitting is turned 900 degrees on each
strut. Allow to dry overnight.
#HW6202A Carbon Support
Struts x 2 & End Fittings x 4
Gas SE only
Step 79 Horizontal Tail Fin
Insert two M3x35 socket cap screws through the horizontal fin and slide the the tail fin mount half ( thicker mount half
with the square ends) against the fin. Position over the tail boom and slide the matching fin mount with the tapered ends
(taller side of the taper toward the mechanics), followed by the aluminum tail support struts and loosely install the two M3
locknuts.
#HI6067
Horizontal Tail
Fin
#HI6068
Upper Tail Fin
Mount
#HW6202
Aluminum
Support
Struts x 2
M3 Locknut
x2
#HI6068
Lower Tail Fin
Mount
M3x35
Socket Cap
Screw x 2
Step 80 Horizontal Tail Fin - Gas SE
Insert two M3x40 socket cap screws through the horizontal fin and slide the the tail fin mount
half ( thicker mount half with the square ends) against the fin. Position over the tail boom and
slide the matching fin mount with the tapered ends (taller side of the taper is towards the
mechanics), followed by the carbon tail support struts and loosely install the two M3 locknuts.
#HI6067A
Carbon
Horizontal Tail
Fin
#HI6068
Upper Tail Fin
Mount
M3x40
Socket Cap
Screw x 2
#HW6202A
Carbon
Support
Struts x 2
Gas SE only
M3 Locknut
x2
#HI6068
Lower Tail Fin
Mount
33
Step 81 Tail Support Struts
M3x9x2
Spacer x 2
Insert one M3x12 socket cap screw through the strut
fitting (carbon or aluminum), one M3x9x3 plastic
spacer, through the mount hole in the rear side frame
and secure with one M3 locknut. Repeat for the
other side.
Now that the struts are mounted to the mechanics,
position the horizontal fin square to the tail boom and
tighten up the M3 screws and locknuts to secure the
horizontal fin in place.
M3x12 Socket Cap Screws x 2
& M3 Locknuts x 2
Step 82 Tail Support Bridge - Gas SE
Slide one M3 flat washer onto the M3x15 socket cap
screw and insert through the two mated support
bridge halves, slide another washer and secure using
one M3 locknut. Leave loose for now. Carefully
press the curved ends over the struts and position the
bridge as close to the mechanics as the slot adjustment will allow and tighten the center bolt. Secure
the bridge in place using four cable ties and trim the
ends.
Step 83 Rudder Pushrod Completion
Slide the two pushrod guides over the unfinished end of the carbon tail
pushrod and attach to the tail boom. Press the ball link onto the steel ball on
the tail pitch bellcrank. Position one guide infront of the horizontal fin and one
half way between the fin and the mechanics bringing the pushrod to the right
side of the helicopter.
#HW6065
Carbon Tail
Pushrod
Roughly positioned the rudder servo approximately 12mm away from the tail transmission.
Temporarily assemble the end cap, pushrod and
ball link and position over the steel ball when the
rudder servo arm is 900 to the servo. Mark the
carbon tube at the start of the end cap and then
mark the offset distance the carbon tube will
extend inside the end cap. Cut and sand the end
of the pushrod and bond the end cap in position
using JB Weld or Epoxy.
34
M3x15 Socket Cap
Screw, M3 Flat Washer x
2 & M3 Locknut
Cable Tie x 4
Gas SE only
#HI6106
Adjustable Tail
Guides x 2
#HI6082 Tail Support
Bridge Half x 2
M2.5x12 Socket Cap
Screw x 2
Carbon Tube
End Cap
#CNLR1000S Tail
Ball Link - Grey
900
Step 84 Tail Pushrod Guides
#HI6106 Cable
Ties x 2
Once the pushrod has cured, the servo position can be
fine tuned by moving the servo mount, generally
position the pitch plate assembly centered between the
tail hub and the tail gearbox. The instructions included
with the gyro will have specific instructions for the tail
setup.
Insert two cable tie wraps in the rudder pushrod
guides and snug them up. Disconnect the ball link
from the rudder servo horn and adjust the guides and
the angle of the rudder servo to get the smoothest
movement. Once all binding has been removed tighten
the cable ties with pliers and trim the excess. Remember to tighten the M2.5x12 socket cap screws in the
rudder mount.
#HI6106 Pushrod
Guides x 2
Step 85 Vertical Tail Fin
Holding the vertical fin (plastic or carbon) insert two M3x35 socket cap screw through the rear holes and two M3x45
socket cap screws into the forward holes. Slide one spacer onto each screws and finally slide the vertical fin mount half
(thinner than the horizontal mount) onto the forward screws.
#HI6067 Vertical Tail Fin
#HI6067
M3x5x6 Steel
Spacers x 4
#HI6067A
Carbon Vertical
Tail Fin
M3x45 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
M3x35 Socket
Cap Screws x 2
Gas SE only
#HI6068
Vertical Fin
Mount Half (thin)
Step 86 Vertical Tail Fin Mounting
Holding the vertical fin (plastic or carbon) from the previous step and position the fin on the left side of the tail
boom. Insert the M3x35 rear screws through the mounts in
the tail gearbox and slide the matching vertical fin mount
over the front screws to capture the tail boom. Secure in
place using four M3 locknuts.
Carbon or Plastic
Tail Fin
M3 Locknut x 4
#HI6068 Vertical Fin Mount
Half x 2
Be carefull when tightening the four screws
on the carbon tail fin. This fin has a hollow
section and can be damaged if the screws
are overtightened.
35
Step 87 Windshield
Leave the protective plastic sheet on the
windshield while the rough cut is made, leaving
3mm [1/8”] of extra material beyond the molded
line in the windshield. Use a black marker if
necessary to trace the line to see it clearly while
cutting. Continue trimming and cutting the
windshield until it will fit into the matching
recess in the canopy.
#HI6133 Windshield
Step 88 Drilling the windshield Holes
Tape the windshield in place and mark 8-9
positions around the windshield’s edge and
centered in the recess of the canopy. Carefully
drill all the holes using a 2.3mm [0.090”] drill bit.
Remove the windshield and redrill the holes to
3mm [0.125”] in the windshield and set aside.
Drill 8-9 Holes
2.3mm Diameter
Step 89 Canopy Decals
Using scissors cut out the main cabin decals
from the decal sheet. These can be trimmed
along the colored edge of the decal. Clean the
canopy with rubbing alcohol to remove any
grease and position the decals as shown. Each
decal has the position listed on the sheet for
easy reference.
#HI6130 Fiberglass
Gelcoat Canopy
When cutting out the tail fin decals, leave 3mm
[1/8”] of extra decal material on all edges.
It is better to plan the position of the lower decal
to overlap the gromment hole. After the decals
have been applied, insert the four rubber
gromments.
#HW6125A Rubber
Grommet x 4
#HI6131A Gas
Decal Sheet
Step 90 Reinforce Rubber Grommet
Reinforce the
grommets using
Goop or Epoxy
36
After the gromments have been installed, it is recommended
to reinforce and bond them in place from the inside of the
canopy. Using Goop adhesive or Epoxy, lift the inside edge
and insert the adhesive between the grommet and the
canopy to form a fillet around the outside edge.
Step 91 Windshield Wooden Blocks
Using Epoxy, bond one wooden block from the inside of
the canopy, centered over each hole for the windshield
screws. Each block should be flush or slightly below the
edge of the canopy. Let the Epoxy completely cure. Using
the 2.3mm [0.090”] drill bit, redrill the holes through the
wooden blocks. Using an available M3x6 self tapping
screw, form the threads in all the wooden block.
Mount the windshield to the canopy using the M3x6 self
tapping screws being careful not to overtighten the screws.
The wooden blocks will hold the screws quite well. After
the canopy is finished, the wooden blocks can then be
painted white to match the canopy.
#HW6125A Wooden
Blocks x 10
Blocks mounted flush to
the canopy edge.
#HW3129A Canopy
Thumb Screws x 2
Step 92 Upper Canopy Mount Screws
When attaching the canopy to the helicopter, install
the two M3x10 Phillips washer head screws to the
upper canopy standoffs. This will keep the canopy in
position during fast backwards flight.
#HI6131A Gas Decal
Sheet
Step 93 Tail Fin Decals
Cut out the tail fin decals from the sheet
leaving 3mm [1/8”] of material along each
edge. Clean both tail fins using rubbing
alcohol and apply the decals. The decal
sheet has the appropriate positions listed for
each piece and can be copied in pencil to
the backside of each decal section.
It is easier to apply the decals when the fins are
removed from the helicopter. Take each section
and align over the intended fin and continue
trimming the edge of the decal to get a good fit.
37
Predator Gas Replacement Parts
HI6009A
HI6020A
HI6031
HI6032
HI6058B
HI6058H
HI6058M
HI6058N
HI6060
HI6064A
HI6064B
HI6064C
HI6064D
HI6067
HI6067A
HI6068
HI6078
HI6080
HI6082
HI3087A
HI3089
HI6096
HI6099
HI6099-O
HI6102
HI6106
HI6122
HI6122A
HI3129A
HI6130
HI6130A
HI6131A
HI6132A
HI6133
HI6138
HI6138A
HI6138B
HI6145
HI3152A
HI3152C
HI6153
HI6154
HI6160
HI6167
HI3167B
HI3167F
HI3167G
HI3176C
HI6179
HI6179A
HI6181A
HI6181B
HI6184
HI6189
HI6200
HI6201
HI6202
HI3205
COOLING FAN - GAS
FIBERGLASS COOLING FAN SHROUD - GAS
CCPM CYCLIC BELLCRANKS
CCPM ELEVATOR LEVER SET
MACHINED TAIL GEAR - 70T CT DRIVE
MACHINED MAIN GEAR - 88T CT DRIVE
INNER TAIL GEAR AUTO HUB - CT DRIVE
OUTER MAIN GEAR AUTO HUB W/T.B. - CT DRIVE
FRONT TAIL TRANSMISSION (L&R)
INNER GEAR AUTOHUB - SPRAGUE TYPE
OUTER GEAR AUTOHUB - SPRAGUE TYPE
SPRAGUE AUTOHUB ASSEMBLY
SPRAGUE SHIM WASHER (2)
TAIL FIN SET - PLASTIC
TAIL FIN SET - CARBON
TAIL FIN MOUNT SET
TAIL GEARBOX (L&R)
TAIL BOOM SERVO MOUNT SET
TAIL STRUT SUPPORT BRIDGE SET - SE
TAIL PITCH SLIDER SET
TAIL PITCH BALL LINKS
TAIL BLADE GRIP SET
TAIL ROTOR BLADES - PLASTIC (2) CLEAR
TAIL ROTOR BLADES - PLASTIC (2) ORANGE
TAIL PITCH LEVER SET
TAIL PUSHROD GUIDES (2)
LANDING STRUTS - PLASTIC (2)
LANDING STRUTS - CARBON (1)
CANOPY MOUNT THUMB SCREWS (2)
FIBERGLASS CANOPY ONLY
FIBERGLASS CANOPY w/ SOLID WINDSHIELD
PREDATOR GAS DECAL
INSTRUCTION MANUAL - PREDATOR GAS & GAS SE
WINDSHIELD ONLY (for HI6130)
FUEL TANK w/FUEL FITTINGS & ISOLATORS
FUEL TANK SPACER - GAS
FUEL TANK FITTING SET - GAS
BALL LINK SET (26 LONG, 4 SHORT)
RADIUS LINK W/PIN (2)
WASHOUT SET - 10MM
WASHOUT GUIDE - ALUMINUM
TORQUE TUBE DRIVE COUPLER
ROTOR HEAD YOKE
SPECIAL BALL SET (2)
SEESAW OFFSET PLATES (2)
BEARING CUPS & SPACERS (2) - M8
SEESAW TIE BAR & SPACERS (2)
SYMMETRICAL FLYBAR YOKE SET
FLYBAR PADDLES - 20 GRAM 3D
FLYBAR PADDLES - 30 GRAM SPORT
HEAD DAMPING O-RINGS - STANDARD (4) RED
HEAD DAMPING O-RINGS - HARD (4) BLACK
MAIN ROTOR BLADE GRIPS (2)
METAL BELL MIXER ARM SET (2)
TYGON 1/8” FUEL LINE, 3FT - Z231H
TYGON 3/32” FUEL LINE, 3FT - Z260H
NEOPRENE 3/32” FUEL LINE, 6” (2)
SERVO MOUNTING TABS (10)
HW6000
HW6001
HW6002
HW6005
HW6007
HW6011A
HW6012A
HW6013E
HW6014
HW6042
HW6042A
HW6045
HW6045A
HW6053
HW6054
HW6054A
HW3057
HW6059
HARDWARE PACK
HEAD BOLTS, SPECIAL BOLTS & WASHER SET
5MM HARDENED HEX ADAPTER
STARTER SHAFT
START SHAFT BEARING BLOCK w/BB
CLUTCH SHOE - GAS
COOLING FAN HUB - GAS
CLUTCH BELL ASSEMBLY - 15T GAS
CLUTCH LINING (2)
UPPER M/SHAFT BEARING BLOCK w/BEARING
UPPER M/SHAFT DUAL BEARING BLOCK w/THRUST
LOWER BEARING BLOCK ASSEMBLY w/BEARING
THRUST BEARING SPACER 14X16X1 (2)
MAIN SHAFT
MAST STOPPER w/BOTTOM COLLAR
ROTORHEAD COLLAR & SCREW
TAIL TRANSMISSION BEVEL GEAR
TAIL TRANSMISSION DRIVE SHAFT
38
HW6062B
HW6063BS
HW6065
HW6070
HW6073
HW6074
HW6075
HW3098A
HW6110A
HW6112
HW6112B
HW6112C
HW6115B
HW6115C
HW6117A
HW6117B
HW6118
HW6118A
HW6123
HW6123A
HW6125A
HW6127B
HW6127C
HW6146
HW6173
HW6180A
HW6182
HW6183
HW6192
HW6192A
HW6192B
HW6202
HW6202A
HW6203
HW6204
HW6205
HW6206
HW6207
TAIL BOOM 855mm - GAS
TAIL S/S TORQUE DRIVE SHAFT - GAS
TAIL PITCH CONTROL ROD - CARBON
TAIL GEARBOX INPUT SHAFT
TAIL GEARBOX OUTPUT SHAFT
SPACER TUBE - TAIL OUTPUT SHAFT
TAIL GEAR SET
STEEL TAIL ROTOR HUB
UPPER SIDE FRAME - L&R
SERVO SIDE FRAMES (2)
VERTICAL FRONT FRAME - GAS
BATTERY TRAY - GAS
FRONT LOWER FRAMES - L&R GAS
REAR LOWER FRAMES - L&R GAS
REAR X FRAME - GAS
LANDING GEAR FRAME - GAS
COOLING FAN SHROUD PLATE - GAS
PULL START MOUNT PLATE - GAS
LANDING SKIDS - ALLOY 10mm (2)
LANDING SKIDS - ALLOY 12mm (2)
CANOPY MOUNTS & GROMMET SET - GAS
FRAME STANDOFF SET - GAS
LANDING GEAR STANDOFF SET - GAS
CCPM SWASHPLATE 120-140 DEGREE
FLYBAR 520mm - ALL
FEATHERING SHAFT w/ BALL
HEAD SHIM SET - 8x13(6), 8x15(2)
HEAD THRUST BEARING SPACER (2)
UPPER LINKAGE SET (6 RODS)
LOWER LINKAGE SET (8 RODS)
THROTTLE LINKAGE & CARB ARM - GAS
TAIL BOOM SUPPORT STRUTS - ALLOY (2)
TAIL BOOM SUPPORT STRUTS - CARBON (2)
MAIN BLADE WASHERS (4)
TAIL BLADE WASHERS (4)
M3X5X3 STEEL SPACER (4) - BELLCRANKS
M3X5X2 STEEL SPACER (4) - TAIL BELLCRANK
M6X13X0.20 ENGINE SHIMS (4) - GAS
HI6032A
HI6189A
HW6176D
HW6176P
CN2215A
CN2290
CN2293
CN2294
CN2342
CN267001
CN267201
CN260956
CN261056
CN261156
CN261206
METAL ELEVATOR LEVER SET
METAL BELL MIXER SET - 1:1 RATIO
METAL FLYBAR CONTROL ARM - BROWN
METAL FLYBAR CONTROL ARM - PURPLE
HEAD BUTTON - SILVER
SWITCH MOUNT SET - GAS
FAN HUB PULLER - GLOW & GAS
PUSH PULL ELEVATOR SET
AEROTECH 710mm H/P ARF MAIN BLADES
ROTORTECH 700mm 3D CARBON BLADES
ROTORTECH 720mm 3D CARBON BLADES
ROTORTECH TAIL BLADES 95mm
ROTORTECH TAIL BLADES 105mm
ROTORTECH TAIL BLADES 115mm
ROTORTECH TAIL BLADES 120mm
CNBB37
CNBB37F
CNBB0930
CNBB48
CNBB49T
CNBB410
CNBB511
CNBB513
CNBB610
CNBB812F
CNBB812TB
CNBB715T
CNBB816
CNBB1018T
CNBB1019
CNLR1000S
CNLR1003
CNLR1006
CNLR1013
CNLR1014
CNLR1018
CNLR1019
CNLR1020
Bearing - seesaw, washout, cyclic & bell mixers
Bearing - tail pitch lever
Bearings - tail grip (2)
Bearing - flybar
Bearing - tail grip thrust
Bearing - tail grip
Bearing - start shaft, tail trans & output
Bearing - tail trans, tail input & output
Bearing - tail pitch plate
Bearing - elevator lever
Bearing - clutch, torrington bearing
Bearing - main grip thrust
Bearing - main grips, tail drive support
Bearing - main shaft thrust
Bearing - main shaft
Grey Ball LInk 2mm (10)
Micro Washer 3X5x0.5 (10)
Micro Washer 4x6x0.5 (10)
Short Steel Ball M2 (2)
Short Steel Ball M3 (2)
Ultra Short Steel Ball M2 (2)
Long Steel Ball M3 (2)
Medium Steel Ball M3 (2)
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