Cleveland | 24-CGA-10 | Specifications | Cleveland 24-CGA-10 Specifications

Descaling Procedure-SteamCraft Ultra and Gemini Series
How Much DISSOLVE to Use
Model
Dissolve
Ultra 3
1/2 Gallon
Ultra 5
1 Gallon
Ultra 10 (Elec.)
1 Gallon (ea.)
Ultra 10 (Gas)
1½ Gallon
Gemini 6 & 10
1 Gallon (ea.)
6. Let the descaler soak in generator for
approximately one hour:
7. After one hour, turn the unit power
Off: This will drain and rinse the generator
for about 3 minutes.
1. Turn the unit OFF and open the
doors:
This will drain and rinse the generator for about
3 minutes.
2. Turn the unit power back On:
The generator will begin to refill with water.
3. Select Timed with the Timed/Manual
switch:
DO NOT start the timer, since you do not want
to heat the water during descaling. Leave the
doors open.
4. Remove descaling port cap and add
with the specified amount of
DISSLOVE: (See chart above)
Do this while the unit is refilling. The generators
can take-up to 8 minutes to refill.
5.
After refill has stopped, add extra tap
water into the descaling port until
liquid is seen entering the cooking
cabinet. Note: Ultra 10 gas will have liquid
coming out of the drain,
Adding extra water when descaling will raise the
descaling solution higher than the normal fill level,
allowing the DISSOLVE to work on sensors and
surfaces above the water line
Note: Some SteamCraft Ultra models (the
electric powered Ultra 10 and Gemini 6 and 10,
for example) have two generators and two
descaling ports. Both units should be descaled
at the same time, using this procedure
8. After the 3-minute drain cycle
completes, turn the unit back ON. After
the filling has stopped, add water until
liquid enters the cooking compartment (or
drain for the ultra 10 gas), and then turn
the unit OFF. This will drain and flush any
residue from the water level control
assembly. Replace descaling cap.
9. After the 3 minute drain cycle
completes, Turn the unit ON and set
the Timer for 20 minutes: Make sure the
Time/Manual switch is in the timed setting
and the doors are closed.
10. When the timer times out (after 20
minutes) turn the power Off:
This will drain and rinse the generator for
about 3 minutes.
This ends the descaling procedure. You can
now turn the unit back on and resume normal
startup and cooking operations.
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
STEAMCRAFT 3.1 ELECTRONIC TIMER (PROBE)
CUSTOMER
CONNECTION
380/415V
L1
FIELD CONVERSION FROM 3•
3Ø
L2
TO 1• IS NOT PERMITTED
W/ NEUTRAL
L3
DRYING ELEMENT
N
FU
FU
TB
HEATING ELEMENTS
CONTACTOR
L1
CUSTOMER
CONNECTION
1•
L2
FU
FU
DRYING ELEMENT
TB
CONTACTOR
L1
CUSTOMER
CONNECTION
L2
3•
L3
HEATING ELEMENTS
TB
FU
FU
H4
RESET CIRCUIT
BREAKER
H1 PRIMARY
X2 SECONDARY
X1
120V
BLK
DESCALE
TIMER
L
3 2
4
1
78
A
NO
6
5
WHT
L
NO
DESCALE INDICATOR
& RESET SWITCH
3
2
FILL VALVE
1
POWER SWITCH
POWER ON
3 MIN TIMER
R
HEAT
FILL
H
N
TRANSFORMER
24 VAC
COMPARTMENT
THERMAL SWITCH
WATER
BOARD
TO
PROBES
XL HI C
ELECTRONIC
TIMER
FU
COIL R1
( OPT )
DOOR
SWITCH
( SCS OPT )
MAGNETIC
TIMED
CONTACTOR
R1
NO
MANUAL
C
HI LIMIT
SWITCH
CONDENSER
VALVE
1
2
HEAT STANDBY
TIMER
3
( STACKED UNITS OPTION )
COOLING FAN
BLOWDOWN OPTION
R1
C
NC
1
INTERMITTENT
BLOWDOWN
TIMER
DRAIN VALVE
2
3
L106346 M
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
STEAMCRAFT 5.1 MECHANICAL TIMER
CUSTOMER CONNECTION
380/415V 3Ø W / NEUTRAL
TB
L1
TO
L2
CONTACTORS
L3
N
FUSEBLOCK
TO H1
FU
FU
TO H4
HEATING ELEMENTS
CONTACTORS
TB
L1
L2
L3
CUSTOMER
CONNECTION
3•
FUSEBLOCK
DRYING ELEMENT
TB
FU
FU
H4
H1 PRIMARY
X1
X2 SECONDARY
TRANSFORMER
RESET CIRCUIT
BREAKER
BLK
WHT
120V
DESCALE
TIMER
L
3 2
4
1
78
L
A
NO
6
5
DESCALE INDICATOR
& RESET SWITCH
NO
3
2
FILL VALVE
1
POWER ON
3 MIN TIMER
POWER SWITCH
R
HEAT
FILL
H
N
WATER
BOARD
XL HI C
TO
PROBES
TIMER
T3
3
L1
T1
2
1
3 SEC TIMER
DOOR SWITCH
( SCS OPT )
BUZZER
COIL R1
( OPT )
TIMED
MAGNETIC
CONTACTOR
MANUAL
THERMAL SWITCH
( HEAT STANDBY )
CONTACTOR
HI LIMIT
SWITCHES
CONDENSER
VALVE
INTERMITTENT
BLOWDOWN OPTION
R1
C
BLOWDOWN
TIMER
NC
DRAIN VALVE
1
2
3
L106380 F
STEAMCRAFT 5.1 ELECTRONIC TIMER
CUSTOMER CONNECTION
380/415V 3Ø W / NEUTRAL
TB
L1
TO
L2
CONTACTORS
L3
N
FUSEBLOCK
TO H1
FU
FU
TO H4
HEATING ELEMENTS
CONTACTORS
TB
L1
L2
L3
CUSTOMER
CONNECTION
3
FUSEBLOCK
DRYING ELEMENT
TB
FU
FU
H4
H1 PRIMARY
TRANSFORMER
RESET CIRCUIT
BREAKER
X2 SECONDARY
X1
BLK
WHT
120V
DESCALE
TIMER
L
3 2
4
1
78
L
A
NO
6
5
DESCALE INDICATOR
& RESET SWITCH
NO
3
2
FILL VALVE
1
3 MIN TIMER
POWER ON
POWER SWITCH
R
HEAT
FILL
H
N
TRANSFORMER
24 VAC
COMPARTMENT
THERMOSTAT
WATER
BOARD
XL HI C
TO
PROBES
TIMER
( ELECTRONIC )
FU
COIL R1
( OPT )
CONTACTOR
DOOR SWITCH
( SCS OPT )
MAGNETIC
TIMED
CONTACTOR
HI LIMIT
SWITCH
HI LIMIT
SWITCH
MANUAL
CONDENSER
VALVE
THERMAL SWITCH
( HEAT STANDBY )
INTERMITTENT
BLOWDOWN OPTION
R1
BLOWDOWN
TIMER
C
NC
2
1
DRAIN VALVE
3
L106379 F
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
PROBLEM:
24CGA10
Steam
cabinet won't
steam with time on
the timer and time/
manual switch in
the timed position
Steam cabinet
won't steam
Is the red light on?
No
Is there power to
the steamer?
No
Yes
See
Steamer won't
fill.
No
Is there water in
the sight glass?
Yes
Yes
See
Steamer
generator
won't ignite
Replace the
on/off rocker
switch
Has the steam
generator ignited?
No
Yes
Repair or
replace the
wiring to the
switch
No
Is there power to
the Timed/Manual
switch?
No
Yes
Replace the
switch
No
Yes
Is there power
from the Timed/
Manual switch?
Replace
the timer
Yes
Does the steamer
have the optional
door switch?
No
Yes
Replace the
door switch
Is there 120 VAC
accross the coil of
the steam
solenoid.?
Yes
Yes
Does the steam
cabinet steam
when the door
switch is
bypassed?
Does the steamer
steam in manual
mode?
No
Replace the
steam solenoid
No
Repair
or replace the
wiring to the steam
solenoid
Connect power
to steamer.
Steam generator
won't fill.
PROBLEM:
24CGA10
Steam
generator
won't fill
Yes
Is there power
to the
steamer?
No
Supply power to
the steamer.
No
Supply cold water
to the steamer.
Yes
Is there water
to the
steamer?
Yes
Is there 120 VAC
between the H and N
on the water board?
No
Replace the on/off
rocker switch .
Yes
Is there
120 VAC
between Fill and
N on the water
board?
No
Remove
the wire from the HI
terminal on the water
board. Is there 120
VAC between Fill and
N?
No
Replace the water
board
Yes
Yes
Replace the wiring
to the fill solenoid.
No
Is there
120 VAC across
the coil of the fill
solenoid?
No
Yes
Is
water leaving
the fill
solenoid?
Is there
debris on the
HI probe in the
probe assy?
Yes
Replace the fill
solenoid
Clean the probes
or replace the
probe assy.
Yes
Replace wiring to
drain solenoid.
No
Does
the steamer have
the optional
intermittent
blowdown timer?
No
Is there
120 VAC across
the coil of the
drain valve?
Yes
Yes
Replace the wiring
to the intermittent
blowdown timer .
No
Is
there 120 VAC
between terminals
2&3 on the timer?
Yes
Replace the
intermittent
blowdown timer.
Is water
draining from
the generator?
Yes
Replace the drain
valve.
No
If water is leaving
the fill solenoid
and not draining
from the generator
where is it going?
check for leaks..
No
Replace the wire
to the Hi probe.
PROBLEM:
24CGA10
Steam generator
won't ignite
Is the red light on?
Steam generator
won't ignite
No
No
Connect power
to the steamer
Yes
Yes
See
Steamer won't
fill
No
Is there water in
the sight glass?
Replace the
on/off switch
Yes
Clean or
replace the
probe assy.
Is there power to
the steamer?
Is there 120 VAC
between Heat and N
terminals on the water
No
level board with a
jumper between
terminal XL and C?
Is there 120 VAC
between the
terminals Heat and
N on the water
level board with
the the low probe
submerged?
No
Yes
Yes
Replace water
level board.
Replace the
igniton module.
Replace the
Timed/Manual
switch.
No
Is there 120 VAC
to the coil of
cabinet relay R1?
No
No
Adjust or
replace the air
prover switch.
Yes
No
With the Top
cabinet in the
No manual position, is
there 120 VAC to
the fan?
Yes
Replace the
cabinet relay
(R1or R2).
Is there 24 VAC
on ignition
transformer?
No
Yes
With the bottom
cabinet in the
manual position, is Yes
there 120 VAC to
the fan?
Is there 24 VAC to
the R4 coil?
Yes
With the high limit
temporarily by
passed is there 24 Yes
VAC to the ignition
module?
Replace the
fan.
Replace the
high limit.
No
Does the fan turn? Yes
Is there 24 VAC to
the gas valve?
Yes
No
Replace the R4
relay.
No
Yes
Is there 24 VAC to
the R3 coil?
Yes
Is there 120 VAC
to the cabinet relay
R2 coil?
No
Is there 24 VAC to
the PV and MV/PV
terminals on the
No
Gas valve and
spark to the igniter
for 90 seconds?
Replace the
timed/manual
switch.
Replace the R3
relay
Replace the
ignition module
Yes
Is the pilot valve
opening?
No
Replace the
gas valve.
No
Supply gas to
the steamer
Yes
Due to the
construction of the
burner box it is best to
replace the ignitor,
ignition cable and sensor
(ground wire ) at the
same time.
Yes
Is there gas to the
steamer?
PROBLEM:
24CGA10
Electronic timer displays "PAUS" and won't count down
START
Is steam heating
the cooking
cabinetabove 192
degrees (the set
temp of the
thermo-switch)?
No
See
Steamer
won't steam
No
Replace the
electronic timer
Yes
Replace the
thermo-switch
Yes
Does the timer
count down when
the thermo-switch
is bypassed?
PROBLEM:
24CGA10
Steam leaks around the door.
START
Is COLD water
supplied to the
steamer?
No
Supply cold
water (35-60
PSI) to the
steamer.
Yes
Is the door gasket
physically
damaged?
Yes
Turn over the
gasket or
replace it.
No
Is the door out of
alignment?
No
Is the drain
obstructed?
No
Is there 120 VAC
across the coil of
the condensate
solenoid?
Yes
Yes
Yes
Replace the
door bearings
and pins.
Remove the
obstruction
Is the solenoid
opening?
Yes
Replace the
condensate spray
nozzle
No
Replace the
wiring to the
condensate
solenoid.
No
Replace the
condensate
solenoid.
Steamer
won't
stop
steaming
Is the
timed/manual switch
in the timed position
with no time on the
timer?
PROBLEM:
24CGA10
Steamer won't stop steaming with
door open
No
Steamer will steam
constantly in the
manual position. Put
the timed/manual
switch in the timed
position with no time on
the timer.
Yes
Does the steamer
have the optional
door switch?
No
Does steamer
continue to steam with
both wires removed
from terminal 1 on the
heat standby
timer?
No
Is there
120 VAC to the
coil of the
contacter?
Yes
No
Is
there an amp
draw at the
element?
Yes
Yes
Yes
Replace the timer.
Adjust or replace
the door switch.
Replace the heat
standby timer.
Replace the
contactor
Problem:
24CGA10
Steamer won't preheat
Steamer won't
preheat
Is the
timed/manual
switch in the timed postion
with time on it or in the
manual
postion?
Yes
See Problem:
steamer won't
steam.
No
This steamer is
not equiped with a
preheat
thermostat. The
timed manual
switch must be in
manual or time
must be on the
timer.
No
When power is
removed from the
element steam is
still made for
approximately 10
seconds. This is
normal.
Generator overpressurizes
PROBLEM:
24CGA10 Generator over-pressurizes (relief valve
discharges constantly)
Replace spray
nozzle
See Problem:
Steamer
Floods
No
Yes
Is discharge from
relief valve cold?
No
Is the condensate spray
nozzle spraying a cone
of cold water down the
drain?
Yes
Is condensate
solenoid operating
properly?
Yes
No
Does generator
over-pressurize
with door open
(and optional door
switch bypassed)?
Yes
Is gas pressure
correct (Natural:
2.0" Low and 3.5"
high. L.P.: 4.2"
low, 10" high)?
Adjust or
replace the gas
valve
Yes
No
Check drain for
any obstructions
and correct
installation.
No
Replace the
normally open
relief solenoid
Replace
condensate
solenoid.
Yes
Does the generator over-pressurize
only when both cabinets have been
running and are then shut down?
No
Descale
generator
Yes
Does generator over-pressurize when
the steam supply hoses have been
disconnected from the steam
manifolds? Warning: Steam is
hot!!
No
Replace the
steam
solenoids
Problem: 24CGA10 Steamer Floods (Water is entering cabinet through the steam nozzles)
Steamer Floods
Replace the fill
solenoid.
No
Is 120 VAC to the
fill solenoid with
water touching the
top probe?
Replace the
water level
board.
Yes
Replace the 3
minute timer.
No
Is there 120 VAC
to the fill solenoid
with the wire
removed from
terminal 1 on the 3
min. timer?
Yes
Yes
Is there 120 VAC to the fill
solenoid with a jumper
placed from the HI terminal
to the C terminal on the
water level board?
No
Clean
or replace the
probe housing
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
SteamCraft Gemini 10
®
TM
MODEL: 24-CGA-10.2
TWO COMPARTMENT FLOOR MODEL DESIGN
PRESSURELESS CONVECTION STEAMER
TWIN, INDEPENDENT GAS-FIRED GENERATORS
Cleveland Standard Features
■ Cooking Capacity for up to ten 12˝ x 20˝ x 2 1/2˝ deep
ITEM NUMBER __________________________________________
JOB NAME / NUMBER __________________________________
Cafeteria Pans, five each compartment.
■ Totally independent cooking compartments, each has its'
own generator, gas valve and water level controls - no
shared components
■ Exclusive High Efficiency Gas Power Burner (forced air)
Generator: Produces more steam for faster cooking while
lowering operating costs (72M BTU's per compartment)
■ Easy Access Cleaning Port: Each generator has a deliming
port located on the outside, top of the unit
■ Generator Cleaning Light for each compartment warns the
operator to delime generator
■ Instant Steam Standby Mode: Holds generator at a
steaming temperature, allows unit to start cooking instantly
■ Each compartment has one, 60-Minute Electro-Mechanical
Timer with load compensating feature. Manual Bypass
Switch for constant steaming.
■ Durable 14 Gauge, 304 Stainless Steel construction for
compartment door, cooking cavity and steam generator
■ Exclusive Two-Piece Compartment door: Slammable,
self-adjusting door provides and airtight seal, reversable
door gasket for extended life
■ Exclusive Gemini Drain/Power Control System: Simple,
reliable 1/2" ball valve style drain automatically turns power
ON/OFF
Short Form Specifications
Shall be Two Compartments, Cleveland Convection Steamer series
SteamCraft Gemini 10, Model 24-CGA-10.2, Twin Gas Atmospheric
Steam Generator, 72M BTU"s input per compartment. Independent
steam generator, gas valve and water level control system.
Automatic Generator Blowdown. Steam Generator with Automatic Water
Fill on start up. Exclusive remote probe-type water level controls.
Exclusive Brass “Steam Jet” distribution system. Two-piece freefloating compartment door. Type 430 Stainless Steel exterior and cooking compartments. Pullout service drawer for controls and Gemini
Drain/Power Control System. Exclusive Cold Water Condenser design.
Choice of Compartment Controls. Manual
TM
■ Exclusive Brass Steam Jets distribute even-high velocity
steam throughout cooking compartment for faster cooking
times
■ Easy, Front -Access Generator Controls comes with a
pullout drawer for simple servicing of unit
■ 6˝ Stainless Steel Adjustable Legs with Flanged Feet
■ Approvals: CSA (AGA, CSA) and U.L/NSF#4
■
Compartment Steam Shut-Off Switch (SCS)
❐ Propane Gas (PG)
Options & Accessories
❐ Electronic Timer with Compensating Feature (ETC)
❐ On/Off Steam Switch Controls, no timer (MC)
❐ Dissolve ® Descale Solution, 6 one gallon container w/quart
markings (106174)
❐ Water Filters
SECT.
Cleveland Range Inc.
IV
13
PAGE
0402
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Ph: 1-216-481-4900 Fx: 1-216-481-3782
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
Each Compartment has
capacity for:
• Five, 12˝ x 20˝ x 21⁄2˝ deep
Cafeteria Pans.
WATER QUALITY
REQUIREMENTS
The quality of water varies
greatly from region to region.
Steam equipment generators
must be drained daily and
chemically descaled periodically
to ensure proper operation. To
minimize service problems
caused by the accumulation of
minerals and chemicals in water
review the following quality
guidelines with a local water
treatment specialist. Inlet water
that is beyond these specified
guidelines should be treated to
achieve these acceptable limits.
Total Dissolved Solids less than
60 ppm, Alkalinity less than 20
ppm, Silica less than 13 ppm,
pH factor greater than 7.5,
Chlorine less than 30 ppm.
A
DE
B
GAS
ELECTRIC
11⁄4 ˝ IPS line size, 3⁄4˝ (13mm) connection
120V-1Phase, 60 Hz.
35 psi minimum
60 psi maximum
NATURAL
PROPANE
BTU
2 Blowers & Controls
Piping 3⁄4˝ N.P.T.
Piping 3⁄4˝ N.P.T.
72,000 each
150 watts each
C
COLD WATER
Supply pressure
Supply pressure
Generator,
One (E) 1/4" dia.
4.50˝ W.C. Min.
11.00˝ W.C. Min.
144,000 total
NPT for Generator
14.00˝ W.C. Max.
14.00˝ W.C. Max.
One (D) 1/4" dia
Manufacturer must be notified if unit will
be used above 2,000 feet
NPT for Condenser
C
CLEARANCE
Right - RIGHT
3”, Left - 3”,
=
Rear -3”
D DRAINAGE
3˝ operating, 11⁄2˝ dia.
12˝ if adjoining wall or
(12” on control side if adjoining
wall or equipment
LEFT =is over
3˝ 30”
high for service access)
Do not connect other
units to this drain
REAR = 3˝
Allow 6˝ space min.
Drain must be vented
when located near
Do not use PVC pipe
Contact factory
for variances
to and sides
from rear
clearances.
combustible walls
NOTES:
Cleveland Range reserves right of design improvement or modification, as warranted.
Many regional, state and local codes exist and it is the responsibility of the owner and installer to comply with the codes.
Cleveland Range equipment is built to comply with applicable standards for manufacturers. Included among those approval agencies are UL/NSF#4 and CSA (AGA, CGA).
(NOT TO SCALE)
SECT.
PAGE
0402
Litho in U.S.A.
IV
14
CLEVELAND RANGE 24CGA10.2
SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS
Mechanical Timer
Starting with the timed manual switch in the timed position, and no time on the timer.
1. To turn the unit on, turn the ON/OFF lever clockwise to the ON position
• This mechanically closes the drain.
• The red “Power On” indicator is energized.
• 115 VAC is sent through the timer to the three-second timer, which activates the
buzzer for three seconds.
• 115 VAC is sent through the normally closed R1 contacts to the fan motor, turning it
ON
•
115 VAC is sent to H and N of the water level board
2. With the water level board energized and no water in the generator
• 115 VAC is sent from the FILL terminal to the fill solenoid.
• The fill solenoid opens and the generator fills.
3. The water fills to the low probe shorting it to ground
•
115 VAC is sent from the HEAT terminal to the timed manual switch.
•
115 VAC is sent through the high limit to the primary of the 24VAC transformer.
•
The water continues to fill until the water level reaches the high probe then 115 VAC is
removed from the FILL terminal and the fill solenoid is turned off
4.
24VAC is sent to the ignition module.
• Spark is sent to the igniter.
• 24VAC is sent to the pilot coil of the gas valve and the coil of the R1 relay.
• The normally closed R1 contacts open, turning off the fan
• The pilot lights, which acts as a standby heater. When the pilot is ignited and the
module detects 1.0 micro amps DC, the MV terminal on the module is energized it
remains in this standby heat mode until a cooking compartment is turned “ON” (see
step 5).
5. When the timed/manual switch is in the timed position and time is on the timer or the timed
manual switch is set to the manual position:
• 115 VAC is sent to the clean light timer.
• When the clean light timer times down 115 VAC is sent to the clean light switch.
• When the clean light switch is depressed the timer is reset.
• 115 VAC is sent from the compartment timer through the door switch to the normally
closed contacts of the compartment thermostat and R2 relay coil.
• The “Sure Cook” light is energized.
• 115 VAC is also sent from the door switch through the now closed contacts of the R1
relay to the fan motor.
• The fan motor turns ON, and comes up to speed.
•
•
•
The fan prover switch makes allowing 24 VAC to the normally open R2 contacts.
The normally open R2 contacts close and 24 VAC is sent to the main coil of the gas
valve.
The main burner is ignited and the water heated to steam.
• Steam enters the cabinet and the compartment thermostat closes at 193 degrees.
• The “Sure Cook” light is de-energized.
• If in the timed mode, 115 VAC is sent to the timer motor and the timer begins
counting down.
• The condensate solenoid is energized sending cold water down condensate spray
nozzle pulling the steam around the product and down the drain.
6. When the timer times out or the unit is switched to the timed mode (with no time on the
timer) from the manual mode, 115 VAC is sent to the 3 second timer and then to the buzzer
for 3 seconds.
7. Whenever the water level drops below the high probe for 5 seconds 115 VAC is sent to the
FILL terminal again.
8. When the on/off lever is turned off :
• The drain is mechanically opened, and the generator begins to drain.
• The red “Power On” indicator light is de-energized.
• 115 VAC is sent to the 3-minute timer and the fill solenoid is energized for 3 minutes
flushing the drain.
PROBLEM:
24CGA6
24CGA10.2
Steamer won't
steam
Steamer won't
steam with handle
in on position
Is the red light on?
Is there power to
the steamer?
No
No
Connect power
to steamer.
Yes
See
Steamer won't
fill.
See
Steamer won't
ignite
No
Is there water in
the sight glass?
Yes
Yes
Adjust or
replace the
on/off micro
switch
Has the pilot
ignited?
No
Yes
Replace the
wiring to the
switch
No
Is there power to
the Timed/Manual
switch?
No
Yes
Replace the
switch
No
Yes
Is there power
from the Timed/
Manual switch?
Replace
the timer
Yes
Does the steamer
steam with the
door switch
bypassed?
Does the steamer
steam in manual
mode?
No
Is there 120 VAC
to the R2 relay?
Replace
the wiring
to relay
No
Yes
Yes
Is the fan
turning?
Replace the
door switch
Is there 120 VAC
to the fan?
No
No
Check the
R1 relay
Yes
Yes
Is there 24 VAC to
the main coil of the
gas valve?
Yes
Replace the
gas valve?
Replace
the fan
No
Does the coil to
the main gas valve
get 24 VAC when
the fan prover
switch is
bypassed?
Yes
Replace the
the fan prover
switch.
No
Replace the R2
relay.
Steamer won't
fill
PROBLEM:
24CGA6
24CGA10.2
Is there power
to the steamer?
Steamer won't fill
with the handle in
the on position
No
Connect
power to the
steamer
No
Supply
water to the
steamer.
No
Adjust or
replace on/off
micro switch
Yes
Is there water to
the steamer?
Yes
Is there 120 VAC
between the
terminals H and N
on the watr level
board?
Yes
Is there 120 VAC
between terminals
Fill and N on the
water board?
Adjust or
replace the on/
off micro switch
Replace the fill
solenoid.
No
No
Yes
Yes
Is there 120 VAC
across the coil of
the fill solenoid?
Is there debris on
the HI probe in the
probe assy?
Yes
Yes
Is water leaving
the fill solenoid?
Clean or
replace the
probe assy.
Yes
Clean or
replace the
drain valve.
No
No
With the wire
removed from the HI
terminal on the water
No
level board, is there
120 VAC between
terminals Fill and N?
Does the manual
drain valve close
completely?
Yes
No
Replace the
water level
board.
Replace the
wire to the HI
probe.
PROBLEM:
24CGA6
24CGA10.2
Steam generator
won't ignite
Is the red light on?
Steamer won't
ignite
No
No
No
Connect power
to the steamer
No
Replace the
gas valve.
Yes
Yes
See
Steamer won't
fill
Is there power to
the steamer?
Adjust or
replace the
on/off micro
switch
Is there water in
the sight glass?
Yes
Clean or
replace the
probe assy.
No
Is there 120 VAC
between Heat and N
terminals on the water
level board with a
jumper between
terminal XL and C?
No
Yes
Is there 120 VAC
between the
terminals Heat and
N on the water
level board with
the the low probe
submerged?
yes
Is there 120 VAC
across the primary
of the 24 VAC
ignition
transformer?
Replace water
level board.
No
Does the pilot gas
valve open when
the 24 VAC is
applied?
Yes
Replace the
transformer
No
Replace
the high
limit
Is there 24 VAC to
the secondary of
the ignition
transformer?
Yes
Is spark generated
at the igniter?
Yes
No
Replace the
igniter and
wire
Yes
Replace the wires
to the ignition
module.
No
Is there 24 VAC to
the ignition
module?
Is there at least
1.0 micro amps
DC at the burner
ground terminal on
the ignition
module?
Yes
Replace the
ignition module
No
Is there spark from
the module until
the 90-second lock
out?
Yes
Yes
Replace the
ignition module
Yes
Is there 24 VAC to
the pilot coil on the
gas valve until the
90-second lock
out?
No
Yes
Supply gas to
the steamer
No
Does the steamer
have gas supplied?
No
Is the pilot flame
blue and
No
enveloping the
igniter?
Yes
Replace the
ground wire
Replace the
pilot assy
PROBLEM:
24CGA6, 24CGA10.2
Electronic timer displays "PAUS" and won't count down
START
Is steam heating
the cooking
cabinetabove 192
degrees (the set
temp of the
thermo-switch)?
No
See
Steamer
won't steam
No
Replace the
electronic timer
Yes
Replace the
thermo-switch
Yes
Does the timer
count down when
the thermo-switch
is bypassed?
PROBLEM:
24CGA6, 24CGA10.2
Steam leaks around the door.
START
Is COLD water
supplied to the
steamer?
No
Supply cold
water (35-60
PSI) to the
steamer.
Yes
Is the door gasket
physically
damaged?
Yes
Turn over the
gasket or
replace it.
No
Is the door out of
alignment?
No
Is the drain
obstructed?
No
Is there 120 VAC
across the coil of
the condensate
solenoid?
Yes
Yes
Yes
Replace the
door bearings
and pins.
Remove the
obstruction
Is the solenoid
opening?
Yes
Replace the
condensate spray
nozzle
No
Replace the
wiring to the
condensate
solenoid.
No
Replace the
condensate
solenoid.
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
CLEVELAND RANGE
SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS
24CGP10
Mechanical Timer
1. To turn the unit on, depress the red on/off rocker switch.
• 115 VAC is sent to normally open drain valve closing it.
• 115 VAC is sent to the Timed/Manual switches for the
cabinets.
• 115 VAC is sent to L1 and L2 of the water level board.
2. With the water level board energized and no water in the boiler
• 115 VAC is sent from the IND terminal to the low water
indicator light on the console.
• 115 VAC is sent from the WF terminal to the fill solenoid
after a 5-second delay.
• The fill solenoid opens and the boiler fills.
• The water fills to the secondary low water cutoff probe in the
boiler, shorting it to ground
• 115 VAC is removed from the IND terminal and the low
water indicator light is de-energized.
• 115 VAC is sent from the HTR terminal through the
normally closed contact of the high-pressure switch to the
normally open contacts of the amber reset switch,
• 115 VAC is sent through the normally closed R1 contacts
to energize the amber light on the reset switch.
• If the low water cut off probe is not grounded for 20
seconds, 115 VAC is removed from HTR and sent back to
IND energizing the low water light.
3. When the momentary amber switch is depressed 115 VAC is sent
to the R1 relay closing it.
• The normally closed R1 contacts open de-energizing the
amber light.
• The relay latches through the normally closed contacts of R1
• If either the high-pressure switch (set at 15 PSI) or the
low probe circuit on the water level board opens, then the
latch circuit opens.
• When the water level or pressure returns to a safe
condition the amber light will energize and the process
may begin again.
4. The R1 relay contacts close sending 115 VAC through the
normally closed operating pressure switch to the primary coil of
the 24 VAC transformer.
•
24VAC is sent from the secondary of the 24 VAC transformer
through the low water cutoff float switch to the R2 relay coil.
• The normally open R2 contacts close and send 115 VAC
to the fan.
• The fan turns and the air prover switch is closed.
• 24 VAC is sent through the air prover switch to the
ignition module.
• With 24 VAC to the ignition module a spark is
generated at the igniter.
• 24VAC is sent to the pilot coil on the gas valve.
• The pilot valve is energized and opens.
• Gas is sent to the pilot burner.
• The gas is ignited and the flame rectifies the AC
current.
• When the ignition module reads at least 1.0 micro
amps DC current through the ground wire the coil to
the main gas valve is energized
• The pilot flame lights the main burner.
• If the module does not read 1.0 micro amps DC in 90
seconds it will shut down the main burner and make
one more try before locking out.
5. The water in the boiler is heated to steam.
• As steam is generated and pressure builds the air is pushed out
through the steamtrap on the lower steam manifold.
• Steam goes through the steam trap heating it to 192 degrees
closing the steam trap.
6. Pressure builds in the boiler to the set point of 8-10 PSI.
• The operating pressure switch opens and the heat circuit is
de-energized.
7. With the timed/manual switch in the timed position and time on
the timer.
• 115 VAC is sent to the steam solenoid and steam is sent to
the cooking cabinet. There the steam is directed around the
product
• 115 VAC is sent to the normally open contacts of the
compartment thermostat.
• The normally open contact close when the thermostat
reaches 193 degrees.
• 115 VAC is sent to the timer motor and the timer begins
to count down
• 115 VAC is sent to the condensate solenoid and cold
water is sent to the condensate spray nozzle pulling the
steam down the drain..
•
When the steam pressure drops below the operating set point
the heat circuit is energized and the heat process begins again.
8. Water continues to fill the boiler until the operational water float is
lifted and closes, shorting the HI terminal on the water level board
to the C terminal. .
• When the HI terminal is shorted to the C terminal the WF
terminal on the water level board is de-energized.
• If the water level drops and the operational water float switch
opens for more than 5 seconds the WF terminal is energized
and the water fill circuit begins again.
9. When the mechanical timer counts down:
• 115 VAC is removed from the condensate circuit.
• 115 VAC is removed from the steam solenoid.
• 115 VAC is sent to the 3-second timer
• 115 VAC is sent from the 3-second timer to the buzzer for 3
seconds.
10. With the timed/manual switch in the manual position
• 115 VAC is sent to the steam solenoid and steam is sent to
the cooking cabinet. There the steam is directed around the
product
• 115 VAC is sent to the normally open contacts of the
compartment thermostat.
• The normally open contact close when the thermostat
reaches 193 degrees.
• 115 VAC is sent to the condensate solenoid and cold
water is sent to the condensate spray nozzle pulling the
steam down the drain..
• When the steam pressure drops below the operating set point
the heat circuit is energized and the heat process begins again.
11. The unit is turned off by depressing the red rocker switch.
• 115 VAC is removed from the timing and heat circuits.
• 115 VAC is removed from the normally open blowdown valve
allowing the unit to drain.
• 115 VAC is sent to the 3-minute timer.
o The three-minute timer will energize the fill and rinse
solenoids for 3 minutes while the steamer drains assisting
and cooling the blowdown. .
CLEVELAND RANGE
SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS
24 CGP 10
Electronic Timer
1. To turn the unit on, depress the red on/off rocker switch.
• 115 VAC is sent to normally open blowdown valve closing it.
• 115 VAC is sent to the 24 VAC transformer to the timer.
• 24 VAC is sent to the timer.
• 115 VAC is sent to the Timed/Manual switches for the cabinets.
• 115 VAC is sent to L1 and L2 of the water level board.
2. With the water level board energized and no water in the boiler
• 115 VAC is sent from the IND terminal to the low water indicator light on the console.
• 115 VAC is sent from the WF terminal to the fill solenoid after a 5-second delay.
• The fill solenoid opens and the boiler fills.
• The water fills to the secondary low water cutoff probe in the boiler, shorting it to
ground
• 115 VAC is removed from the IND terminal and the low water indicator light is
de-energized.
• 115 VAC is sent from the HTR terminal through the normally closed contact of
the high-pressure switch to the normally open contacts of the amber reset switch,
• 115 VAC is sent through the normally closed R1 contacts to energize the amber
light on the reset switch.
• If the low water cut off probe is not grounded for 20 seconds, 115 VAC is
removed from HTR and sent back to IND energizing the low water light.
3. When the momentary amber switch is depressed 115 VAC is sent to the R1 relay closing
it.
• The normally closed R1 contacts open de-energizing the amber light.
• The relay latches through the normally closed contacts of R1
• If either the high-pressure switch (set at 15 PSI) or the low probe circuit on the
water level board opens, then the latch circuit opens.
• When the water level or pressure returns to a safe condition the amber light will
energize and the process may begin again.
4. The R1 relay contacts close sending 115 VAC through the normally closed operating
pressure switch to the 24 VAC transformer.
• 24VAC is sent through the low water cutoff float switch to the R2 relay coil.
• The normally open R2 contacts close and send 115 VAC to the fan.
• The fan turns and the air prover switch is closed.
• 24 VAC is sent through the air prover switch to the ignition module.
• With 24 VAC to the ignition module 24VAC is sent to the pilot coil on the gas
valve.
• A spark is generated at the igniter.
•
•
•
•
•
•
The pilot valve is energized and opens.
Gas is sent to the pilot burner.
The gas is ignited and the flame rectifies the AC current.
When the ignition module reads at least 1.0 micro amps DC current
through the ground wire the coil to the main gas valve is energized
The pilot flame lights the main burner.
If the module does not read 1.0 micro amps DC in 90 seconds it will shut
down the main burner and make one more try before locking out.
5. The water in the boiler is heated to steam.
• As steam is generated and pressure builds the air is pushed out through the steamtrap
on the lower steam manifold.
• Steam goes through the steam trap heating it to 192 degrees closing the steam trap.
6. Pressure builds in the boiler to the set point of 8-10 PSI.
• The operating pressure switch opens and the heat circuit is de-energized.
7. With the timed/manual switch in the timed position (with time on the timer) or in the
manual position:
• The timer display alternates between “PAUS” and the time set.
• 115 VAC is sent to the steam solenoid and steam is sent to the cooking cabinet.
There the steam is directed around the product.
• When the cooking compartment reaches 193 degrees internally the thermal switch
closes.
• The timer begins to count down
• 115 VAC is sent to the condensate solenoid. The condensate solenoid sends cold
water to the condensate spray nozzle pulling the seam down the drain.
• When the pressure drops below the set point the heat circuit is energized and the heat
process begins again.
8. Water continues to fill until the operational water float is lifted and closes, shorting the
HI terminal on the water level board to the C terminal. .
• When the HI terminal is shorted to the C terminal the WF terminal on the water level
board is de-energized.
• If the water level drops below the operational water float switch for more than 5
seconds the WF terminal is energized and the water fill circuit begins again.
9. When the electronic timer counts down:
• 115 VAC is removed from the condensate circuit.
• 115 VAC is removed from the steam solenoid
10. With the timed/manual switch in the manual position
• 115 VAC is sent to the steam solenoid and steam is sent to the
cooking cabinet. There the steam is directed around the product
• 115 VAC is sent to the normally open contacts of the compartment
thermostat.
•
•
The normally open contact close when the thermostat reaches
193 degrees.
• 115 VAC is sent to the condensate solenoid and cold water is sent
to the condensate spray nozzle pulling the steam down the drain..
When the steam pressure drops below the operating set point the heat
circuit is energized and the heat process begins again.
11. The unit is turned off by depressing the red rocker switch.
• 115 VAC is removed from the timing and heat circuits.
• 115 VAC is removed from the normally open blowdown valve allowing the unit to
drain.
• 115 VAC is sent to the 3-minute timer.
• The three-minute timer will energize the fill and rinse solenoids for 3 minutes
while the steamer drains assisting and cooling the blowdown. .
1333 East 179th Street
Cleveland, Ohio 44110
Phone: (216) 481- 4900
Fax: (216) 481- 3782
Installation Instructions
For P/N 110329
Replacement Boiler Inspection Cover Assembly
for the Power 10
1 – Cover Brace
2 – Inspection Cover
Parts List
Replacement P-10 Boiler
Inspection Cover
1 – P/N 110316 Cover Brace
2 – P/N 110315 Inspection Cover
3 – P/N 110248 Gasket
4 – P/N 110330 Sealing Nut
Sealing Side
3 – Gasket
4 – Sealing Nut
(Shown enlarged)
1333 East 179th Street
Cleveland, Ohio 44110
Phone: (216) 481-4900
Fax: (216) 481 3782
Part No. 260AVG – A 5/01
Replacement Instructions Rear Inspection Plate.
1) Start with the unit turned off and completely cool. Before starting this
process, verify that the Power switch is in the OFF position, the boiler is
completely cool and the pressure gauge adjacent to the power switch is not
showing any pressure in the boiler.
2) Remove the Rear Cover Panel (See
Figure 1). If the unit being worked
on does not have a Rear Cover
Panel, remove the rear panel itself.
3) If the unit is already equipped with a
boiler inspection cover of the type
shown on the front cover of this
instruction, remove the old cover
and go directly to Step 7.
Rear Cover Panel
Figure 1 Rear Cover Panel
4) Before the new inspection cover can be installed it will be necessary to first
remove the old cover plate and then “prepare” the boiler for installation of the
new cover.
Preparing the Boiler for the New Inspection Cover
5) Remove the six nuts holding the old inspection cover in place (do not discard
these nuts as they will be needed in a later step). Next remove the existing
inspection cover and gasket.
6) The studs, which held the old
inspection cover in place, will need
to be removed (shortened). The
best way to shorten these studs is
to place the nuts (removed in Step
5) onto the exposed stud (see
Figure 2). Tighten the nut down onto
to the stud with a wrench or socket
until it threads flush with the weld
base of the stud. Continue to tighten
the nut until the stud breaks.
Providing the remaining stud is not
higher than ¼ inch, no additional
conditioning of the stud base is
necessary. If the remaining base of
the stud is still higher than a ¼ inch,
file down its height until the top is no
more than a ¼ inch above the plate.
1 of 5
Reinstall Nut
on Stud
Nut Threaded
Down to Base
Final Shortened
Stud
¼ inch Max
Figure 2 Stud Removal
WARNING
Do not use any method of stud removal such as
grinding, which might damage or gouge the boiler
face itself. Such damage to the boiler could result in
failure of the pressure vessel and cause premature
equipment failure, property damage, personal injury
and/or death.
7) Remove any excess scale and
loose material around the inside and
outside of the inspection opening
using a scraper and a wire brush
(See Figure 3). DO NOT USE ANY
POWERED GRINDING METHOD
TO CLEAN THESE SURFACES,
WHICH MIGHT REDUCE THE
ACTUAL
BOILER
WALL
THICKNESS.
8) The new boiler inspection cover has
a centering plug to insure that it is
properly located when installed into
the inspection port. To prepare the
opening itself, lightly tap the edge of
the boiler opening and/or use emery
cloth to remove any build-up that
would effect the roundness of the
opening or reduce the diameter of
the opening. The opening must be
sufficiently cleared as to easily allow
the insertion of the centering plug of
the new inspection cover. (see
Figure 4)
Figure 3 Cleaning the
Boiler Surface
Either Tap Lightly
with a Hammer
and/or use Emery
Cloth to Remove
Build-Up in the
Opening Itself
Figure 4 Cleaning the Inside of the
Boiler Opening
Installing the New Inspection Cover
9) Insert the cover brace into the
opening (See Figure 5). It is
designed so that it cannot fall down
into the boiler during the installation
process, so this is not a concern
when installing or removing this
cover.
Figure 5 Cover Brace
2 of 5
10) Place the gasket over the centering plug of the new inspection cover (See
Figure 6). Place the inspection cover with the gasket side down, oriented as
shown in Figure 6, onto the boiler brace bolt and start the sealing nut (gasket
side down, see Figure 7) provided onto the bolt.
Gasket
Gasket
Inspection
Cover
Inspection
Cover
Sealing Nut
(Nylon Edge Installed
Towards the Boiler for
Proper Sealing)
Figure 7 Sealing Nut Direction
Figure 6 Gasket and Cover
IMPORTANT
In order for the sealing nut provided to properly seal,
the nylon side of the nut must be installed against the
inspection plate cover (see Figure 7).
11) Before tightening the sealing nut, position the plate such that the assembly
fits flush onto the boiler face and does not rock. It may be necessary to turn
the assembly slightly to allow the clearance holes in the gasket to line up
over the stubs left from the old mounting studs.
12) Tighten the nut hand tight until it
clears the end portion of the bolt,
which is provided with a flat. It will
probably be necessary to grab the
flat end on the bolt with a wrench or
pair of pliers (see Figure 8), to
prevent the assembly from spinning,
before attempting to complete the
tightening process. Tighten the nut
onto the bolt until it becomes snug.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THIS
ASSEMBLY.
3 of 5
Tighten
Figure 8 Tightening the Nut
WARNING
Do not over tighten the sealing nut. Over tightening
can damage the boiler head and the brace assembly,
which may prevent the assembly from sealing and/or
cause premature equipment failure, property
damage, personal injury and death.
Test procedure (See the operating label found on the unit for additional details
of the start-up procedure for the boiler)
13) Turn on the main power switch to the boiler, which will fill the unit with water.
14) Turn the individual control compartments to the timed (with the timers
zeroed) or OFF position, depending on model.
15) Once the unit is filled with water, press the amber-lighted steam switch. The
boiler will light and come up to pressure. When the burners turn off, the
boiler should now be at operating pressure (the steam pressure gauge
should read about 12 psi).
16) Check the inspection opening for any signs of leaks. If a leak is observed,
put a wrench onto the nut (holding the flat of the bolt if necessary to prevent
the assembly from spinning) and turn the nut tighter.
Note: If the nut bottoms out, and the assembly continues to leak even after
the nut seems completely tight, DO NOT CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN. Turn
OFF the main power switch, and allow the unit to cool. Remove the nut, and
put a bead of high temperature silicone around the threads at the sealing
surface. Reinstall the nut as shown in Figure 7. Repeat Steps 12 – 16.
17) Once the seal of the new inspection plate has been checked, turn off the
power to the unit and allow the unit to cool. If the original steamer had an
opening in the rear panel for inspection plate access, go to Step 19,
otherwise it will be necessary to cut a clearance opening in the rear sheeting.
18) If your steamer does not currently have an inspection opening in the rear
panel it will be necessary to fashion a clearance opening in this panel to
clear the mounting bolt of the new rear inspection cover for the boiler. Cut at
least a 2” diameter or larger opening 11 ⅛ in from the top of the rear panel
centered in the middle using a Greenlee knockout punch or similar method
(See Figure 9 on the following page). Alternatively, a rectangular cutout as
shown in Figure 9 in dotted lines can also be used. Be sure to remove any
burrs or sharp edges left in the new opening from the cutting operation.
4 of 5
11.125
As an alternate, a
rectangular opening
can be cut out to
remove
the
four
louvers shown
11.875
Figure 9 Rear Panel Modification
19) Reinstall any panels that were
removed to install the new boiler
inspection cover. If your steamer
had a rear cover panel installed on
the rear sheeting, this can either be
left off the unit once the new boiler
cover is installed or modified by
installing a clearance hole to clear
the bolt. See Figure 10.
20) The Steamer is now ready for operation.
5 of 5
Cut a 2” Diameter
Hole or Similar
Opening Centered
on the Plate
Figure 10 Modifying the Rear
Cover Panel
Cleveland Range, LLC
Ph: 1-216-481-4900
Fx: 1-216-481-3782
1333 East 179th St., Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A. 44110
Visit our Web Site at www.clevelandrange.com
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