Rivera | Quiana Studio | Troubleshooting guide | Rivera Quiana Studio Troubleshooting guide

OWNERS MANUAL
Version 1.0
July, 2002
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 1
Introduction
Your Rivera Amp Is An Important Part Of Your Sound
Your sound is your signature, your mark, your voice. An amp only deserves to have
your guitar plugged into it if it can deliver the tone you want—and, of course, the
dependability you need. It's as simple as that. And it's exactly why you bought your
RIVERA amp. For that, we thank you, and we're confident that you'll enjoy your amp for
years to come.
Many factors go into creating a great amp—experience, an understanding of what
guitarists want, and a lot of hard work. You'll notice that tone isn't on any parts list.
Roadworthiness isn't, either. And there's no law saying that an amp must sound good
or be well-made. But we dedicate ourselves to making the best-sounding, most reliable
amplifiers anywhere. That's why we use only the highest-quality components,
regardless of price. Such features as metal jacks, ultra-strong dadoed cabinet
construction, and highest-quality electronic components are part of our uncompromising
approach. They're chosen for their precision, strength, and ability to withstand the
rigors of years of use—and occasional abuse—on the stage and in the studio. No
compromises are made because cutting any corners—no matter how small—means
settling for second best. This is the premise and promise by which we make amps.
This requires dedication to you, the guitarist, and a belief that an amp is more than a
collection of parts. It's part of your sound.
Please fill in the following information for future reference:
Model Name: Quiana or Fandango
Model Number:
Serial Number:
Dealer's Name:
Dealer's Address:
Date of Purchase:
Rivera Research & Development Corporation
13310 Ralston Ave.
Sylmar, CA 91342 USA
Ph: (818) 833-7066
Fax: (818) 833-9656
Email: rivera@rivera.com
Web: http://www.rivera.com
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 2
Packing Information
Unpacking
Before you plug in, inspect your Quiana/Fandango amp for any damage. Your
amp was inspected and sound-tested before shipment, but transportation can
sometimes be tough. Check that the FS-7 Footswitch and power cord have been
shipped with the amp. If parts are missing, or if any damage has occurred,
contact your dealer.
Packing Materials
We designed the original box and packing materials to protect your amp during
shipment. Save them. If you ever need to send your amp to us or to anyone else, the
original box and packing materials will ensure safe transit.
Safety
Throughout this manual, the lightning flash with an arrowhead symbol
within a triangle is intended to alert you to the presence of un-insulated
"dangerous voltages" within the product's enclosure that may be of
sufficient magnitude to constitute a risk of electric shock to persons.
Warning: There are no user-serviceable parts inside of this amplifier.
Warning: To avoid the risk of shock or fire, do not expose this amplifier to moisture. Do
not remove the chassis from its cabinet, or remove metal covers from chassis parts.
Removing the chassis from its cabinet exposes extremely dangerous high voltages.
There are no user-serviceable parts inside. Hazardous voltages are present inside the
chassis. Refer all servicing to qualified personnel.
The exclamation point within a triangle is intended to alert the user to
the presence of important operating and maintenance (servicing)
instructions in the literature that accompanies the product.
Caution: To avoid a fire hazard, always replace the fuses with the same type and
rating.
Caution: Always replace the line cord (mains supply) with the proper type.
Caution: Always turn off the amplifier before making or unplugging any speaker
connections.
Always transport your amplifier securely, preferably in a suitable flight case or packing
carton. Before operating your amplifier, be sure the speakers used are properly
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 3
connected. For countries where 220 to 240 volts AC is encountered, make sure that
you have the correct power cord. Our 230-volt export unit can be used with any of
these voltages. For the United Kingdom, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand, we
build a special 250V version able to handle higher Mains voltages. For Japan 100 VAC
models, all instructions for the 115 VAC models apply.
In the event that you have questions, comments, or suggestions, please contact us at:
Rivera Research & Development Corporation
13310 Ralston Ave.
Sylmar, CA 91342 USA
pH: (818) 833-7066
Fax: (818) 833-9656
Email: rivera@rivera.com
Web: http://www.rivera.com
No Time To Read The Manual?
At Least Read This Part Now!
Before you plug in:
Take a quick look inside the back of your amp. Make sure of the following:
The tubes are securely seated in their sockets.
A speaker cord is plugged into the Speaker 1 output (this jack must always be used
first) and the input jack on a speaker cabinet with a minimum impedance of 4 ohms.
The impedance selector is set to match the cabinet's impedance.
The power cord is plugged in.
Now look at the front to make sure:
The Volume and Master controls are set at low levels ('2' is a good starting point).
The Power switch is off (the lower half is pushed in).
The Standby switch is set to standby mode (the lower half is pushed in).
Plug in!
Now plug the amp into the wall, plug your guitar into either input jack, and set your
controls to one of the Quick Start settings outlined here. Then turn on the Power
switch. Wait for about a minute for the tubes to warm up. Turn on the Standby switch.
Now it's time to rock.
After you've played with your Quiana or Fandango for a while, check out the rest of the
manual for some good tips on getting the most out of your amp.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 4
Quick Start Settings
If you're looking for a good starting point, try these settings. Remember that
every guitar and speaker cabinet sounds different, so try both inputs, and adjust
the Focus and Presence to suit your taste.
Quiana and Fandango Differences
The Quiana and Fandango are very closely related. Whenever the Quiana is
mentioned in the manual, it is safe to assume that the Fandango will function
similarly. In cases where the two amps are different, the words "Quiana only" or
"Fandango only" will be used.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 5
Front Panel
STANDBY
21
PULL
PULL
PULL
PULL
BRIGHT
NOTCH
NINJA
WARM
TREBLE
MIDDLE
HANDCRAFTED BY
RIVERA RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT SYLMAR, CA USA
76
76
STANDBY
POWER
FOCUS
21
43
21
5
PRESENCE
43
21
5
REVERB
43
43
21
5
MASTER
5
43
5
43
5
43
5
43
5
43
43
76
76
43
43
76
5
76
5
76
5
76
76
5
76
43
21
10 9 8
76
5
BASS
10 9 8
21
10 9 8
21
10 9 8
21
10 9 8
PULL
BOOST
VOLUME
10 9 8
21
76
MASTER
10 9 8
PULL
SCOOP
21
10 9 8
PULL
SELECT
TREBLE
10 9 8
21
76
MIDDLE
10 9 8
21
10 9 8
LOW
GAIN
BASS
10 9 8
HIGH
GAIN
10 9 8
21
76
VOLUME
76
INPUTS
POWER
FOCUS
43
21
5
PRESENCE
43
21
5
REVERB
43
43
21
5
MASTER
5
43
5
43
5
43
5
43
5
43
5
43
76
43
43
76
5
76
5
76
5
76
43
21
10 9 8
5
BASS
10 9 8
BOOST
21
10 9 8
PULL
SELECT
MIDDLE
10 9 8
21
76
TREBLE
10 9 8
21
10 9 8
PULL
VOLUME
10 9 8
21
76
MASTER
10 9 8
21
76
TREBLE
10 9 8
21
76
MIDDLE
10 9 8
21
10 9 8
LOW
GAIN
BASS
10 9 8
HIGH
GAIN
10 9 8
21
76
VOLUME
76
INPUTS
PULL
PULL
PULL
PULL
BRIGHT
NOTCH
NINJA
WARM
HANDCRAFTED BY
RIVERA RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT SYLMAR, CA USA
High Gain input
This is a high-sensitivity input. If your guitar has hot pickups, then plugging into it makes
it easy to overdrive the preamp section, creating harmonic distortion. Guitars equipped
with low-output pickups seem hotter than usual when plugged into this input.
Low Gain input
This is a low-sensitivity input. Guitars plugged into it have more headroom before
distortion sets in (meaning that you can crank up a channel's volume a little louder
before you experience Preamp distortion). This is a good choice for a clean overall
sound, and is especially well-suited to active pickups or guitars equipped with Preamps.
Channel 1
Both channels are voiced differently, and Channel 1 is definitely geared toward creating
impressive and massive crunch and lead tones while retaining a vintage feel (think of as
a great "British" tone). Grit, grunge, dirt--whatever you're looking for in the distortion
department is here, from sweet and singing to hard-driving to maximum sustain. Note:
Like the controls on all classic amps, the Treble, Middle, and Bass interact, creating
smooth, musical tone changes. All three controls operate with even response
throughout their ranges. This amp has so much potential gain and sustain, you should
not assume that the Volume controls should be set on a typical "10" to start with. You
might try 3-5 as a starting point.
Volume (with channel-select Pull-Switch)
Although it's labeled "Volume," this control does a lot more than determine how loud
Channel 1 is. It regulates the Preamp's volume and works with the Master to set the
level and distortion amount. A simple rule of thumb is, the higher the Volume is set, the
more distortion you get. The push switch selects which channel is active. Its circuitry is
designed so that you don't hear a pop or click when the channel is changed (The FS-7
footswitch also selects channels; the Volume's pull switch can be activated with the FS7 plugged in or not, but to control the amp from the footswitch, keep the switch pushed
in. ). See info on the FS-7 and its functions.)
Bass
The "chunk" and support that form the backbone of your tone come from this control. Its
effect on your overall sound will be different at high and low volumes due to the
speaker's characteristics and how much distortion you use. The bass EQ curve has
been specially tailored to complement the maximum bass response of the RIVERA
Quiana and Fandango speaker enclosures. Also, the internal speakers of the Quiana
and Fandango Amplifiers have been voiced to complement the circuitry and cabinet
size.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 6
Middle Quiana only
The midrange circuit provides the "meat" that fills out your sound. It has a slight notch in
the frequency spectrum at about 550 Hz, and turning the knob alters the depth of that
notch, letting you dramatically change the overall voicing of your tone.
Middle (with Pull Scoop switch) Fandango only
Provides the "meat" that fills out your sound. It has a slight notch in the frequency
spectrum at about 550 Hz, and turning the knob alters the depth of that notch, letting
you dramatically change the overall voicing of your tone. When you pull the control, the
notch frequency is raised to 750 Hz.
Treble
Whether you're looking for edge, slash, or just a little shimmer, this knob's for you. Like
the Bass control, the apparent effect of the Treble changes with the loudness and
distortion you dial in.
Master (with Pull Boost switch)
Think of the Master as a sort of governor that sets the maximum loudness for the
channel. Also, think of it as the second half of what the Volume knob does. With the
Volume turned down and the Master up, there's less distortion than if you crank up the
Volume and set the Master lower. The Master control comes after all distortion and
tone-shaping on Channel 1, so its level doesn't have a bearing on your basic tone.
When you pull the Boost switch on Channel 1, it adds a whole range of harmonics, and
not just gain. This is easy to hear by playing a power chord and comparing its sound
with the switch pushed in and pulled out. With the switch activated, the tone blooms,
going from fat to ferocious.
Channel 2
Channel 2 is extremely flexible, with a flavor that brings to mind the great classic
American tones and textures. You can get some pretty impressive blues overdrive
distortion out of Channel 1, and as a rhythm channel it brings out every subtlety of your
playing. The range of tones can be anywhere from sparkling-clean to perfect for bluesy
rhythm--the kind of sound that has an attitude and gets meaner as you pick harder.
Volume The Volume knob regulates the Preamp's volume and works with the Master to
set the level and distortion amount. A simple rule of thumb is, the higher the Volume is
set, the more distortion you get.
Treble (with Pull Bright switch)
This treble control is similar in operation to the one on Channel 1. In addition, it has a
built-in Pull Bright switch. When pulled out, it adds bright highlights to the tone. As the
Volume control is increased past about "5", the bright switch's effectiveness will be
decreased.
Middle (with Pull Notch switch)
The midrange circuit has a slight notch in the frequency spectrum at about 550 Hz, and
turning the knob alters the depth of that notch. Its Pull Notch switch shifts the frequency
center of that notch down to about 250 Hz. (For reference, most 1950s tweed amps as
well as many British amps have their notch centered at 550 Hz, while classic
"blackface" American amps have theirs centered at 250 Hz.) Experiment with this,
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 7
especially if you're looking for a uniquely expressive rhythm texture.Typically, a
humbucking equipped guitar already has a lot o bass and midrange. If you are seeking
clean comping or rhythm tones, having the notch pulled out (250Hz) will allow for more
string definition and headroom. Conversely, a single coil equipped guitar has less mids
and may need the fat sound of the notch switch pushed in (550Hz).
Bass
The "chunk" and support that form the backbone of your tone come from this control.
Also, when using a singled coil guitar for a jazz or bebop tone, this control will add the
needed fatness to the lower strings.
Master (with Pull Boost switch)
Channel 2 has a special EQ circuit that works in conjunction with the distortion circuit to
sweeten the tone. Therefore, the Master knob's effect goes beyond loudness control.
Try it with different Volume and Middle settings to adjust the amount of "singing" and
"grit." The Boost, activated by pulling the Master knob (or pressing the switch on the FS7 Footswitch), is a sweet-sounding boost characterized by a more subtle effect on the
harmonics than Channel 1's Boost control while adding sustain. The Ch.2 Boost helps
to drive the power amp, and the best description of its influence over the tone is that it
thickens it.
Reverb
This control allows for the excellent "Hammond 6 Spring Long Pan" Reverb to be
enjoyed. This is a "Parallel" effect, and is adjustable for intensity up to 50%. Adjust to
taste.
Focus
This control is another RIVERA exclusive that actually lets you change the speaker's
response characteristics, from tight to loose. The effect can give closed-back cabinets a
sound more akin to an open one, and vice-versa, plus you can "custom blend" the
amount of hardness your final sound has. New to Rivera amps, first unveiled on Quiana
is a new "Pull Warm". By pulling this control, the bottom end response of the power amp
section changes as well as the high end, giving a sweet contoured tone. The Focus and
Presence controls will also be modified in their sweep, increasing their effectiveness.
Presence
The Presence control is incorporated as a vital part of the power amp section. Think of it
as a final brightness control after all the EQ, distortion and effects.
Standby
By turning the Power on and the Standby off (the down position, labeled with a "0"), you
can warm up the amplifier before applying full voltage to the Preamp and power output
tubes. This prolongs tube life. Using the Standby switch when you're taking a break also
helps to extend the tubes' life, plus it keeps the amp constantly at the ready. Just flip the
Standby switch to the up ("I") position, and you're ready to play.
Power
This is your main power switch. The on position is indicated by the light being
illuminated. The off position is marked by the "0" on the switch. Before turning the amp
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 8
on, always check that a speaker is connected and that the power cord is firmly plugged
into the amp and the outlet.
Rear Panel
E
E
4
MODEL
QUIANA/FANDANGO
RIVERA RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT CORP., SYLMAR, CALIFORNIA, USA
21
43
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
RETURN
LEVEL
5
FUS
FUS
3A 250V 500MA 250V
SLO-BLO
SLO-BLO
FOOTSWITCH
USE FS-7 ONLY
8
IMPEDANCE
SELECTOR
EFFECTS LOOP
RETURN
SEND
Z IN
250K Ω
Z OUT
560 Ω
SEND
LEVEL
21
10 9 8
115V ~ 60Hz
LINE OUT
560 Ω
10 9 8
INPUT POWER
300 WATTS
SPEAKER 2
SERIAL NUMBER
43
SPEAKER 1
16
FUS
CAUTION
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF ELECTRIC
SHOCK,DO NOT REMOVE CHASSIS
E
FUS
E
H.T.
FUSE
5
VINTAGE / MODERN
USE FIRST
MAINS
FUSE
76
REPLACE FUSE WITH SAME TYPE AND RATING
76
MAINS INPUT
CAUTION: CHASSIS SURFACE HOT
CAUTION: NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE. REFER SERVICING TO QUALIFIED PERSONNEL
Mains Input
Your RIVERA amp has a detachable power cord that connects to the chassis AC
connector labeled Mains Input. Always use this cord and, in the event that the power
cord requires replacement, replace it with the same type of power cord. Consult your
RIVERA dealer for further information. Be sure to use a grounded electrical mains
power supply socket whenever possible. These outlets have a grounding pin in addition
to the normal line and neutral pin. The power cord supplied with your RIVERA amp has
a 3-pin plug. Do not cut off or damage the ground pin. If the available electrical outlet is
of the older 2-pin type, use a suitable ground-lift adapter.
The U.S.A., Canada, and Japan share a common CSA/UL-style cord. Most of Europe
and Scandinavia utilize a Euro plug and have a SEMKO/VDE-style cord. Australia uses
a different type of plug, as does England, and South Africa as well.
Note: Avoid using long power extension cords. Long cords have sufficient resistance to
electrical current that the voltage arriving at your amp can be significantly reduced. This
can have a bad effect on your tone.
Mains Fuse (50Watt-55Watt Quiana and Fandango models)
This AC line fuse protects your amplifier from damage due to shorts, momentary
surges, and defective power tubes. In the event of a fuse failure, always replace it with
the same type of fuse.
Note: Always turn the amp off and wait about five minutes before
replacing a fuse. This allows the parts to cool and high voltages to
dissipate.
For 100VAC versions, the Mains Fuse is:
3 Amp, 250 Volt Slo-Blo type (size 3AG, or MDL)
For 115VAC versions, the Mains Fuse is:
3 Amp, 250 Volt Slo-Blo type (size 3AG, or MDL)
For 230/250VAC versions, the Mains Fuse is:
T 1.6A (time-delay, 5mm x 20mm size)
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 9
Mains Fuse – Quiana 100 and Fandango 100
For 100VAC versions, the Mains Fuse is:
5 Amp, 250 Volt Slo-Blo type (size 3AG, or MDL)
For 115VAC versions, the Mains Fuse is:
4 Amp, 250 Volt Slo-Blo type (size 3AG, or MDL)
For 230VAC versions, the Mains Fuse is:
T 2A (time-delay, 5mm x 20mm size)
HT Fuse
The power amplifier circuit has its own fuse for protecting the output section from short
circuits and transient current peaks that exceed the normal current draw. These
conditions are usually caused by a bad tube. When a short circuit or transient peak
causes the fuse to blow, the output tubes should be checked and replaced, if
necessary.
For 100VAC and 115VAC versions, the HT Fuse is:
1/2 Amp, 250 Volt Slo-Blo type (3AG, or MDL)
For 230/250 VAC versions, the HT Fuse is:
T 500ma (time-delay, 5mm x 20mm size)
HT Fuse – Quiana 100/Fandango 100
For 100VAC and 115VAC versions, the HT Fuse is:
1 Amp, 250 Volt Slo-Blo type (3AG, or MDL)
For 230VAC versions, the HT Fuse is:
T 1A (time-delay, 5mm x 20mm size)
Note: Repeated blowing of this fuse is a clear indicator of a defective
output tube. Always use the correct fuse value when replacing the HT
Fuse.
If the Mains Fuse or the HT Fuse repeatedly blows, refer your amp to your local
RIVERA dealer or contact us at (818) 833-7066 for further service assistance.
Vintage-Modern switch
Switching amongst the two settings will produce a change of output power as well as
harmonic balance. In Modern mode, the output power amplifier operates in "Pentode"
and will sound the cleanest, have the most headroom, and sound bright, with odd
harmonics (i.e.1,3,5,7, etc.) more noticeable. Vintage mode brings the output tubes to
work in "Triode" mode, halving the power selected by the High-Low power switch, and
lowering the odd harmonics while raising the even (2,4,6,8, etc.) resulting in a sweeter,
darker tone. Do not switch while playing. Best way is to place the amp on standby first,
then switch.
Speaker outputs
A speaker must always be connected to your Quiana/Fandango. The amp is designed
to deliver at least 50 watts to a 4-16 ohm speaker load (with the Impedance selector
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 10
appropriately set to match the given load). If it has to drive speaker loads lower than 2
ohms, its output transformer or other components could be damaged. You can use 8- or
16-ohm extension cabinets, either alone or in pairs (one into each speaker output). A 2ohm speaker cabinet alone or a pair of 4-ohm extension speaker cabinets together can
be used, however, it is not an optimum match, and the Impedance Selector Switch must
be set at it's lowest setting, 4 ohms. The only time you may run the amp without a
speaker connected is if you have a proper "dummy" impedance load box plugged into
the speaker output. Using a dummy load protects the output transformer, but prolonged
use shortens the life of the amp's output tubes when the amp is operated at high levels..
Just because you cannot hear the amp does not mean it is not working hard. Always
use a heavy-gauge speaker cord. The larger the diameter of the wire, the lesser of
power to be lost. A shielded guitar cord can't handle the power that your amp provides,
and therefore won't sound right--plus it may actually harm your amp. Refer to the
connection diagrams for further information.
Note: Never use a speaker output to connect directly to the input of a
mixer, a tape recorder, a slave amp, or headphones. For further
information, refer to the hook-up diagrams for proper connection with
extension speaker cabinets.
Line Output
Your RIVERA Quiana or Fandango amp can drive another RIVERA amp, power amp, or
other guitar amplifier. The Line Out is post-power amp, so every bit of tone from your
Preamp, effects (if used), and power-amp circuitry is sent from this jack. Use a shielded
cord connected between the amp's Line Out and the input of a second amplifier (check
that amp's manual--it may recommend a specific input). The Line Out can also be used
to feed a signal to a tape recorder or mixer. Although the recorder or mixer doesn't
receive the tone that comes from the speaker, it does receive all of the signal from
every other stage of the amp, and for live-performance recording it does an excellent
job of isolating your guitar sound.
Note: Do not connect the Line Out to speakers or headphones. For
further information, refer to the hook-up diagrams for proper connection.
Impedance Selector
Set the Impedance Selector to match the impedance load of your internal speakers (8
Ohms), or a different setting when used with external cabinets Here's how:
4-ohm setting = One 4-ohm cabinet or two 8-ohm cabinets (one plugged into each
speaker output, like an internal 8 Ohm and an external 8 Ohm)). Use this setting if a 4 to
2 ohm load is needed to drive.
8-ohm setting = One 8-ohm cabinet or two 16-ohm cabinets (one plugged into each
speaker output, or when using just the internal speakers, 8 Ohms).
16-ohm setting = One 16-ohm cabinet plugged into the Speaker 1 jack
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 11
Note: Loads that are not matched properly may harm your amp. If
unequal speaker cabinets loads, i.e. a 4 ohm cabinet and an 8 ohm
cabinet are used together, unequal amounts of power may be
distributed to these cabinets due to a non symmetrical load.
If you aren't sure if your speaker load is correct, contact your RIVERA dealer, or call
RIVERA Customer Service.
Footswitch jack
This 8-pin DIN plug is designed to work specifically with the included FS-7 footswitch.
Your Quiana/Fandango amp will function perfectly without a footswitch. However, the
footswitch provides a hands-free way to switch channels, and select boost functions. Its
three switches control the following:
Channel Select 1-2
Gain Boost for Channel 1
Gain Boost for Channel 2
Note: If you are using the FS-7 footswitch, all of the Front Panel switching functions
remain intact and can be selected by the respective controls pull-switch function. Also,
the switches and their LEDs are driven by the amplifier's power; there is no battery to
replace inside the FS-7.
The footswitch jack can also be used to connect the optional FS7M MIDI interface. This
allows the amp to be controlled by any MIDI controller including the Rivera Head
Master. The MIDI interface replaces the footswitch, the interface and the pedal cannot
be used at the same time.
Effects Loop
Of course, you can use pedals and rack-mounted effects between your guitar and the
amp. In fact, that's where most wah-wahs and other pedals sound exceptionally good.
However, rack signal processors are often best suited to being placed after the
Preamp's tone-shaping circuitry. Your Quiana/Fandango's Effects Loop is designed to
give you the best match between the amp and the processor by allowing you to set the
level of the signal going to the effect, as well as the one coming back. Therefore, you
can tailor your amp/effects levels for best signal-to-noise ratio and the amount of
distortion you want. Note: The Effects Loop send can be used to route a signal to a
guitar tuner, recording mixer, another guitar amplifiers effects loop return (for Bi-Mono
amping), etc.
The Effects Loop comes after the Preamp section. In addition, its low-impedance
circuitry lets you drive everything from the simplest stomp-box effect to the most
sophisticated pro signal processor with excellent results. It's also fully buffered, meaning
that it can drive long cords and line-level gear and mixing consoles. (Because the signal
is electrically unbalanced, you can use an unbalanced-to-balanced output transformer
to connect to equipment requiring a balanced input.)
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 12
Before you connect a signal processor to your amp, either turn the amp off or to
standby. Use high-quality shielded cords between the amp and processor. Never use a
speaker cord.
Setting Effects Loop levels
1. After you connect the amp's Send and Return with the signal processor's input and
output, set the amp's Send Level and Return Level between 1 and 2.
2. Plug in your guitar, turn the signal processor on, and then turn on the amp (or flip the
standby switch).
3. Set the amp's Effects Loop Send Level and the signal processor's input level so that
you don't overload the processor. Keep your ears open for unwanted distortion from the
signal processor (you'll know it by its crackly, unmusical sound). Whack a few chords on
your guitar to check that your settings are correct.
4. Now turn up the Effects Loop Return knob until the proper volume and overdrive are
dialed in. You'll probably have to experiment with the signal processor's output level
until you get the best sound and lowest amount of noise.
5. Make sure that you consider the straight/effects blend at the signal processor, since
all of your Preamp's signal is passed through the Effects Loop. You may also use the
"mix" output, if the unit has one, adjusting the mix on the effects processor to suit your
taste. Note: If delay sounds such as slap echo, reverb, and repeat delay will be your
primary choice of effects, usually a 50% wet mix from the effects should be used.
The Effects Loop Send is configured so that it is always active, so you can use it as a
variable output. Note that if you use the Send to drive slave amps, etc., and have
nothing plugged into the Return jack, the signal still passes from the Preamp to the
power amp even when the Effects Loop is internally bypassed.
Connecting The Quiana/Fandango With Other Gear
The following illustrations will help you to properly connect your Quiana/Fandango to
other amps, extension speaker cabinets, and recording and P.A. gear. Make sure the
amp and all other gear are turned off whenever you make or change any connections.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 13
Driving one external speaker cabinet
SPEAKER 1
SPEAKER 2
USE FIRST
LINE OUT
560 Ω
8Ω
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
Using a heavy-gauge speaker cord, connect the output jack labeled Speaker 1 to the
speaker input on an extension cabinet with a minimum of a 4-ohm impedance and
power-handling capacity of at least 60 watts for the Quiana 50/Fandango 55. A single 8or 16-ohm extension cabinet can be used, too. For the best tone and maximum output,
we recommend using any of the RIVERA speaker cabinets loaded with either Celestion
Vintage 30's, or our special 10" driver. For the Quiana/Fandango 100, make sure the
combined power rating of the speaker system or enclosure is at least 120 Watts.
Note: Regardless of the type or number of speaker cabinets you use, always make sure
that the Quiana/Fandango's Impedance Selector is set to match the speaker cabinet's
impedance.
Driving internal and one external speaker cabinet
SPEAKER 1
USE FIRST
SPEAKER 2
LINE OUT
560 Ω
8Ω
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
TO INTERNAL
SPEAKER
In this configuration, the Quiana is driving the internal speaker load, with an identical
impedance external load. Using heavy-gauge speaker cords, connect the output jack
labeled Speaker 2 to the speaker inputs on extension cabinets with a minimum 8-ohm
impedance and power-handling capacity of 60 watts. Set the Quiana's Impedance
Selector to 4 ohms.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 14
Driving two speaker cabinets
SPEAKER 1
SPEAKER 2
USE FIRST
LINE OUT
560 Ω
8Ω
8Ω
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
In this configuration, the Quiana/Fandango is driving two speaker cabinets with identical
impedance's. Using heavy-gauge speaker cords, connect the output jacks labeled
Speaker 1 and Speaker 2 to the speaker inputs on extension cabinets with a minimum
8-ohm impedance and power-handling capacity of 60 watts (for 50W Quiana/Fandango
55). You can also hook up two 16-ohm cabinets, but avoid if possible the use of two 4ohm cabinets, because the overall impedance load will be below what is optimum for
the amplifier and sustained use could result in overheating damage. When using two 8ohm cabinets, set the Quiana/Fandango's Impedance Selector to 4 ohms. When using
two 16-ohm cabinets, set it to 8 ohms.
Running two amps in parallel without a Y-cord
INPUTS
HIGH
GAIN
LOW
GAIN
INPUTS
HIGH
GAIN
LOW
GAIN
FROM
GUITAR
The Preamp and output amp sections, as well as all controls, function normally in this
setup. Use a shielded cord. Note: Make sure speaker cabinets are connected to both
RIVERA amps.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 15
Slaving a second Quiana/Fandango
SPEAKER 2
USE FIRST
LINE OUT
560 Ω
RETURN
LEVEL
EFFECTS LOOP
RETURN
SEND
LEVEL
SEND
43
5
10 9
543
21
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
21
Z IN
250K Ω
Z OUT
560 Ω
10 9 8
876
76
SPEAKER 1
PARTS INSIDE. REFER SERVICING TO QUALIFIED PERSONNEL
TO SPEAKER
CABINET
SPEAKER MUST
BE CONNECTED
Using a shielded cord, connect the first RIVERA's Line Out to the Effects Loop Return
jack on a second RIVERA. Adjusting the Return Level of the second amp sets the
relative volume of the second amp. All tone and distortion adjustments are made by the
first amp. Alternatively, you can use the Effects Loop Send jack from the first amp
instead of its Line Out. The Send Level control sets the signal level being sent to the
second amp. Note: Make sure that at least one speaker cabinet is connected to each
amp at all times.
Slaving a second amp or power amp
SPEAKER 1
SPEAKER 2
USE FIRST
LINE OUT
560 Ω
POWER AMP
IN
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
TO SPEAKER
CABINET
SPEAKER MUST
BE CONNECTED
Connect a shielded cord from your Quiana/Fandango's Line Out to the Power Amp In or
Effects Loop Return of a second amp. All volume and tone changes made on the
Quiana/Fandango will affect what comes out of the second amp. Caution: Never use the
speaker outputs as line outputs. Their power level is extremely high and can cause
tremendous damage to another amp's input. If you don't have any effects patched into
the Quiana/Fandango's Effects Loop, you can use its Send jack instead of the Line Out.
The Send Level knob then acts as a variable output level.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 16
Placing a signal processor in the effects loop
EFFECTS LOOP
RETURN
SEND
LEVEL
SEND
98
10
Z IN
250K Ω
INPUT
OUTPUT
432
765
543
10 9
876
1
RETURN
LEVEL
Z OUT
560 Ω
21
PARTS INSIDE. REFER SERVICING TO QUALIFIED PERSONNEL
Using shielded cords, connect the Effects Loop Send to the processor's input, and the
processor's output to the Effects Loop Return. Adjust the mixture of effect/non-effect
sounds at the signal processor, and set the levels at the amp and processor for lowest
distortion. If you use multiple signal processors, connect them in series (processor 1's
output to processor 2's input, etc.), and patch the Quiana/Fandango's Send to the first
processor's input and the Quiana/Fandango's Return to the last processor's output. If
the processor has stereo outputs, you can connect one to the Effects Loop Return of a
second amp.
Sending a direct signal to P.A. or recording gear
SPEAKER 1
SPEAKER 2
USE FIRST
LINE OUT
560 Ω
LINE INPUT
TOTAL MIN. Z 8 Ω 55 W. RMS
SPEAKER JACKS IN PARALLEL
WARNING: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE
OR ELECTRIC SHOCK, DO NOT EXPOSE
THIS EQUIPMENT TO RAIN OR MOISTURE
TO SPEAKER
CABINET
SPEAKER MUST
BE CONNECTED
Using a shielded cord, connect the Quiana/Fandango's Line Out to the line input or
channel input of a mixer or recorder. (The signal comes from the amp's output stage, so
all tone, distortion, and overdrive characteristics are included.) You can use the Effects
Loop Send jack instead of the Line Out, too. Caution: Never use the speaker output.
You will need to adjust the equalization of the mixer carefully, as this sound differs
greatly from a sound heard by a microphone placed in front of a speaker cabinet. Using
a "Cabinet Emulator" in the signal path may be a good idea to try. Speakers act as giant
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 17
filters, and as the signal from the Line Out is full frequency, not affected by the
mechanical-acoustic filter of a speaker, it will have a lot more high frequencies present.
Care And Troubleshooting
Chances are, you bought your RIVERA amp to make your guitar sound great, not to
improve your skills with electronics. What we're saying is, "If something ever goes
wrong with your amp, don't try to fix it yourself." There are some potentially lethal high
voltages inside the amp, plus if you do something that causes even more damage than
when you started out, the person who does the real repair will probably tell you, "Hey, I
know what's wrong. Somebody's been monkeying around in here." And, of course, your
warranty will be void.
There are some things you can do to keep your amp running and to determine (and
hopefully remedy) common difficulties.
Keep the amp out of the elements
A lot of this is common sense. Don't use your amp in a sauna or in the bathtub. Don't
leave it out in the rain or in a damp basement. If you take it to a gig or to practice and it's
cold out, give it 15 minutes or a half-hour to stand in the room where you'll be playing.
That way, it can get acclimated and sound its best when you're ready to play.
Be nice to it
The jury is still out on whether talking to plants makes them happy, or whether Elvis
lives on the moon, but the verdict on pampering amps is well-known. Don't drop, knock
over, kick, or otherwise mistreat your amp. If you don't have a flight case for travel, use
the box it came in, or wrap it in something thick, soft, and protective. RIVERA amps are
built to take a lot, but why push it? If you treat your amp well, it will treat you (and your
guitar's tone) well.
Check for loose tubes
Here's as close as you should get to being inside your amp. With the amp unplugged
and cooled off, examine the tubes to make sure they're in tight and straight. Note:
Unlike light bulbs, tubes push straight into their sockets. Never try to twist them! Also
note that some of the tubes are inside of metal sleeves. These are easy to remove for
checking the tubes. Grasp the sleeve with your fingers and depress it (it's springloaded) and turn to the left (counterclockwise). Now pull it off; this may require a little
wiggling action. Remember to put the sleeve back on after you check the tube.
Make sure the power cord is tightly plugged in
This is critical at both ends of the cord. And don't use one of those 3-pin-to-2-pin
adapters unless you connect the ground lug to the outlet. Leaving the ground
disconnected isn't just cheating--it's dangerous to un-ground any electrical device that's
supposed to be grounded.
Let it idle before you play
If you have a few minutes to spare before you play, turn the amp on and set it to
standby so that all the parts can get warmed up and stable. Once the amp's nice and
warm (5 or 10 minutes), flip the Standby switch and get busy on your guitar.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 18
Clean your amp once in a while
You can use a damp but not wet cloth, or one moistened in a weak solution of
dishwashing detergent and water to wipe off grime, dried Pepsi, Beer, and whatever
else accumulates on the vinyl covering. If you use Gaffers or Duct Tape to hold Picks on
the surface of the Quiana/Fandango and you need to remove the adhesive, use a small
amount of Rubbing Alcohol on a soft cloth, then wipe off the residual with a soap/water
solution. Make sure the amp is unplugged first. Also make sure that no liquid is spilled
into the top ventilation grille, or that the tubes have any liquid of any source dripped on
them. Everything else can be vacuumed, as long as you're gentle and use a soft-bristled
brush attachment on the vacuum hose.
Quick Troubleshooting Guide
Amp won't turn on
1. Make sure that the AC mains cord is securely connected at both ends.
2. Verify the power source with something that you know works (a radio, a light, etc.).
3. Check the Mains Fuse, and replace it if necessary (if it blows again, refer your amp to
qualified service personnel).
There's no sound
1. Make sure that the guitar cord to the input is okay (wiggle it--check your guitar's
volume setting, too).
2. Check the Volume controls.
3. Check the Standby switch.
4. If an effect or signal processor is plugged into the Effects Loop, make sure it's turned
on and that the level controls on the amp and processor are set correctly.
5. Check the speaker cable or cables to see if they are disconnected or shorted.
6. Check for blown speakers.
7. If a fuse is blown, replace it (if it blows again, refer your amp to qualified service
personnel).
The amp shuts down unexpectedly
1. Follow the seven steps in the "There's no sound" section.
2. Turn off the amp and wait 25 minutes before turning it on again. An internal thermal
protection circuit can shut the amp down if it becomes overheated.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 19
3. After 25 minutes, turn it on, and if it shuts down again, refer the amp to qualified
service personnel.
Note: On SEMKO 230/250-volt models, there are two additional T 1.6A (250-volt SloBlo type, 5mm x 20mm) fuses and one T 10A (250-volt Slo-Blo type, 5mm x 20mm)
fuse located internally. These protect the amp's output tube filaments and should only
be replaced by qualified service personnel.
There's unwanted distortion
1. Check the speaker(s).
2. Check the cables.
3. Check the signal level at other devices in the signal path.
4. One or more tubes may be bad (refer to the tube information in this manual, or take
your amp to qualified service personnel).
Tube Care & Replacement
Like a sports car, there's a certain amount of wear and tear to be expected in a highperformance tube amp. Over time, especially with hard use, tubes may need
replacement. That's why it's a good idea to make note of when you purchased your amp
and whenever you replace tubes. It's no accident that your amp has two common types
of tubes: They're great-sounding and reliable, and it's easy to find replacements. Here's
a tube chart to show you which tubes go where.
Quiana 50/Fandango 55
V6
V1 V2 V3
V7
V4 V5
Quiana 100/Fandango 100
V6
V1 V2 V3
V7
V8
V9
V4 V5
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 20
Location
V1
V2
V3
V4
V5
V6
V7
V8 (100W Models)
V9 (100W Models)
Type
12AX7A
12AX7A
12AX7A
12AX7A
12AX7A
6L6GC(Quiana), EL-34 (Fandango)
6L6GC(Quiana), EL-34 (Fandango)
6L6GC(Quiana), EL-34 (Fandango)
6L6GC(Quiana), EL-34 (Fandango)
Here's a brief description of what each tube does:
V1 Input buffer and tone control driver for Channel 2, and also the first Preamp stage of
Channel 1.
V2 Tone control follower for Channel 2 and an additional gain stage for Channel 1.
V3 Third gain stage for Channel 2 and for Channel 1
V4 Reverb follower gain stage, and mixer for both channels
V5 Phase inverter driver tube for the power amp section
V6-V9 Power amp tubes--for best operation, all power tubes should be changed at the
same time. Use a matched pair if at all possible.
Checking for microphonic tubes
As tubes wear, some problems can come up. One of the most common symptoms is a
ringing sound. This is usually due to the tube becoming microphonic (like its name
suggests, it's picking up sound and amplifying it).
With the amp unplugged and cooled off, examine the tubes to make sure they're in tight
and straight. Never twist them! Gently grasp the tube and wiggle it into place. Because
some of the tubes are inside of metal sleeves, you will have to remove the sleeves to
check them for microphonics. Grasp the sleeve with your fingers and depress it (it's
spring-loaded) and turn to the left (counterclockwise). Now pull it off; this may require a
little wiggling action.
Preamp tube first aid
If you hear ringing (a feedback-like high-pitched sound) in your amp, it's probably
coming from a Preamp tube. Here's a procedure to find which tube is giving you trouble.
With nothing plugged into either the High Gain or Low Gain inputs, and the Master
controls turned down to 5 or below, turn the amp on.
Turn up the Volume on Channel 1, or Channel 2. Now use the tip of a pencil to gently
tap the end of each of the small tubes (V1 through V5) and listen for sustained ringing.
Turn up the Volume and Master knobs and keep tapping until you find the tube that
rings (or squeals).
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 21
Turn off the amp, and allow the tubes to cool. Now pull out the troublesome tube and
replace it with one of the same value (that is, if you're pulling out a 12AX7, replace it
with a 12AX7).
Make sure that the tube is oriented correctly when pulling it out or putting it back in. If
you look at the end of the tube and the socket, you'll notice that the nine pins are
arranged in an incomplete circle. Always make sure the pins are aligned correctly.
Never force a tube into its socket.
Remember to put the sleeve back on after you check or replace a tube.
Power amp tube first aid
Like Preamp tubes, power amp tubes can go bad or wear out. Your Bonehead has four
power amp tubes, and if one goes bad, they should all be replaced. This assures
optimum output and tone.
If a power tube shorts out, the HT Fuse will be blown. Remove power from the amp and
replace the fuse before doing the following:
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 22
1. Let the power tubes cool. Remember the way the eight pins are arranged, and note
that the center hole on the tube socket has a keyway that matches the center post on
the tube.
2. Replace one tube. Turn the amp on. If the fuse blows (or the tube glows cherry red,
indicating an internal short), you've found the bad tube. Turn off the amp immediately. If
the fuse doesn't blow, replace another tube and turn the amp on again. Repeat this
procedure until you've determined which tube is bad.
3. When the tubes have cooled, remove them. Replace all power tubes. (Don't throw
away good tubes from the old set, though--save them as spares!).
General information about tube types
6L6GC is the most common of all American high power tube types, used in Hi-Fi, P.A.,
and Musical Instrument amplifiers for over 50 years. RCA built great ones as well as the
best coming from Sylvania. However, as we write this manual, there are only four
factories in the world building this tube; Svetlana in St. Petersburg, Russia, Reflector
(Sovtek) in Russia, JJ/Tesla in Slovenia, and a factory in China. NOS (New old stock)
supplies from various other factories are still available, albeit in short supply.
Unfortunately due to the conflict of NATO and Serbia, the Yugo 6L6 is no more, and it
was a poor tube anyway. Out of all that are currently made, we have had the best
success with the Svetlana, and some of the recent Chinese that are a copy of the
Sylvania, sold by Ruby Tubes. For EL-34, we use mostly Svetlana brand as well.
EL-34 has been the most common of high power output tubes used by European Hi-Fi
and Musical Instrument amplifier manufacturers. The tone of EL-34’s is very different
from 6L6GC. Besides the Chinese, Sovtek, Svetlana, and JJ/Tesla are the only EL-34’s
that are commonly available (as of the writing of this manual). We are very critical in our
testing of our tubes, and throw away many that do not make our grade. All of our amps
are built with matched tubes, that are graded as well. When you need to purchase
replacement tubes, if you order the same grade number that are in your amp originally
from the factory (provided that no one has changed the bias set at the factory), you can
change out the tubes without needing the bias to be re-adjusted. If you use tubes not
from us or of a different grade or value, you will need to have the amp rebiased. In
terms of 12AX7A types, there are only 3 factories that we know of building this tube
type; JJ/Tesla, Sovtek, and Ruby Tubes in China. Again, NOS stocks still exist of RCA,
G.E., Mullard, Telefunken, Sylvania, Mazda, and Philips. Usually the Chinese sound the
brightest and have the most gain. Recently the Sovtek 12AX7LP has been made
available and it is improved from it's predecessors, yet has less gain and less high end
than the Chinese. RCA, G.E. Philips, Mullard (NOS) are great tubes, but may need to
be selected for microphonics. We are using mostly Sovtek for the 12AX7A's. We use
12AX7WA or WB for V1-V3, and 12AX7LP/LPS for position V4 and V5. Together this
creates a tone and gain balance similar to running Chinese 12AX7’s.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 23
FS7
Female sockets
Viewed from amplifier back panel
NC
Channel LED
NC
6
3 8 1
5 2 4
7
+18VDC
Boost Switch / LED
GND
Channel Switch
Ninja Boost Switch / LED
NC
NC
Channel LED
7
1 8 3
4
5
2
6
Channel Switch
Ninja Boost Switch / LED
Male pins
Viewed from end of cable
+18VDC
Boost Switch / LED
GND
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 24
Quiana 50/100 and Fandango 55/100 Specifications
High-gain input impedance: 1 Megohm
Low-gain input impedance: 33k ohms
Output impedance: Selectable, 4 ohms, 8 ohms, or 16 ohms
Line Output impedance: 330 ohms minimum
Effects Loop Send Output impedance: 560 ohms minimum
Effects Loop Return Input impedance: 10k ohms minimum
Total harmonic distortion: 5% at rated power
Bandwidth: 50 Hz to 20kHz
Preamp tubes: Five 12AX7A
Quiana Output tubes: Two 6L6GC or Four 6L6GC (100W)
Fandango Output Tubes: Two EL-34 or Four EL-34 (100W)
Tube voltage: 430 volts DC
Quiana 50 Output power: 50+ watts RMS into 4,8,or 16 ohms
Fandango 55 Output Power: 55+ watts RMS into 4, 8,or 16 ohms
Quiana/Fandango 100 Output power: 100+ watts RMS into 4,8,or 16 ohms
Operating voltage: 115 volts AC, 230 or 250 volts AC (export model), or 100 volts AC
(Japan only)
FS-7 Footswitch functions:
Channel Select,
Channel 1 Boost,
Channel 2 Boost
Quiana 50 212 and 410 Dimensions and weight:
Height: 21" (212), and 26-1/2" (410)
Width: 26-1/2"
Depth: 12"
Weight: 70 lbs. (212), 85 lbs. (410)
Fandango 112 and Quiana Studio 112 Dimensions and Weight
Height: 18"
Width: 23-3/4”
Depth: 12"
Weight: 55 lbs. (Quiana Studio 112), 53 lbs. (Fandango 112)
Fandango 100 212 and Quiana 100 212 Dimensions and Weight
Height: 19-1/2"
Width: 27-1/2"
Depth: 12"
Weight: 75 lbs. (Quiana 100 212), 69 lbs. (Fandango 100 212)
Cabinet material: 3/4" and 5/8"-thick Birch Plywood
Cabinet thickness: 3/4"
Construction: Dadoed joints
Covering: 30-oz. vinyl
Cleaning of vinyl covering: Moist cloth, dishwashing liquid
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 25
Warranty
Subject to the Obligations and Exclusions found below, this RIVERA product is
warranted against manufacturing defects in material and workmanship for the period of
one (1) year from the date of purchase, with the exception of tubes, which carry no
warranty, and loudspeaker drivers, which are covered for 90 days.
The warranty period commences on the date of purchase by the original user.
Performance under this warranty must be obtained at one of the following: a RIVERA
Authorized Service Station, by returning the unit to the RIVERA factory with prior
authorization, or (in countries outside of the United States) by a representative RIVERA
distributor. A list of RIVERA Authorized Service Stations can be obtained from
RIVERA, 13310 Ralston Ave., Sylmar, CA 91342, USA, ATTN.: Warranty Service.
Telephone (818) 833-7066; telefacsimile (818) 833-9656. Email:rivera@rivera.com
Obligations
This warranty will be honored only on the presentation of the original proof of purchase.
Transportation of the product to the service station or RIVERA factory is the
responsibility of the user unless specifically stated otherwise in this warranty. RIVERA
will pay for return shipping charges if the repairs are covered by the warranty.
Exclusions
This warranty shall not cover adjustment of customer-operated controls as explained in
the appropriate model's instruction manual, or products that have been altered,
replaced, or have missing serial numbers.
This warranty shall not apply to the appearance of accessory items including, but not
limited to, cabinets, cabinet parts, or knobs.
This warranty does not apply to uncrating, setup, installation, or the removal and
reinstallation of products for repair.
This warranty shall not apply to repairs or replacements necessitated by any cause
beyond the control of RIVERA including, but not limited to, any malfunction, defects, or
failure caused by or resulting from unauthorized service or parts, damage resulting from
improper packaging when returning product, damaged or broken tubes, incorrect line
voltage, improper maintenance, modification or repair for the user, abuse, misuse,
neglect, accident, fire, flood, or other Acts of God.
This warranty shall not apply to any loudspeaker drivers that have been damaged due
to thermal destruction, or physical destruction such as moisture, rips, tears, shock, or
transport.
Responsibility for any repair of any RIVERA product sold outside of U.S. boundaries is
borne by the RIVERA representative in that particular country or territory. Also, the
warranty term and conditions may be different from those stated above. Please contact
the RIVERA distributor or dealer in your country for more information.
The foregoing is in lieu of all other expressed warranties, and RIVERA does not
authorize any party to assume for it any other obligation or liability. In no event shall
RIVERA be liable for special or consequential damages arising from the use of this
product, or for any delay in the performance or this warranty due to causes beyond our
control. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 26
and/or do not allow the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the above
limitations on implied warranty and consequential damages may not apply to you. This
warranty gives you specific legal rights. You may have other rights that vary from state
to state.
© 2002 Rivera Research & Development. All rights reserved.
Quiana and Fandango 1.0 p 27
Download PDF