Bernina | artista 165 Embroidery | Instruction manual | Bernina artista 165 Embroidery Instruction manual

BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 1
Safety Instructions
1
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety
precautions should always be followed, including the
following.
10. Always unplug the sewing machine from the
electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating
or when making any other user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this instruction manual.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected
from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the
power outlet.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are
being used or where oxygen is being administered.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”)
position then remove the plug from the outlet.
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the
plug before pulling.
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible
damage as the result of misuse of the machine.
WARNING
17. This machine is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions
for Servicing of Double-Insulated machines.
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to
persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is
necessary when this appliance is used by or near
children.
2. Use appliance only for its intended use as described in
this manual. Use only attachments recommended by
the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this appliance if:
· it has a damaged cord or plug,
· it is not working properly,
· it has been dropped or damaged
· it has fallen into water
Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer
or service center for examination, repair, electrical or
mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air openings
blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot controller free from accumulation
of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care
is required around the sewing needle.
SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation
are provided instead of grounding. No means of
grounding is provided on a double-insulated product nor
should a means for grounding be added to the product.
Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme
care and knowledge of the system and should only be
done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts
for a double-insulated product must be identical to those
parts in the product. A double insulated product is
marked with the words “DOUBLE INSULATION” or
“DOUBLE INSULATED”.
The symbol
may also be marked on the product.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
6. Always use an original or recommended BERNINA
stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to
break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may
deflect the needle causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to “0” when making any
adjustments in the needle area, such as threading
or changing the needle, threading the bobbin or
changing the presser foot.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 2
2
Choosing a BERNINA Sewing & Embroidery System is a decision which will have
a positive impact on your sewing for years to come.
Customer satisfaction has been the driving force of our family company for over
100 years and I intend to continue that tradition of delivering superb Swiss quality,
future-orientated sewing technology and unrivaled customer service.
The new BERNINA family of creative sewing machines gives you the unique
“Welcome
opportunity to select what you need to satisfy your sewing needs and
requirements.
to the
As the name suggests, the “artista” range of computer sewing is pure artistry.
These machines provide unlimited scope for total sewing pleasure. They inspire
BERNINA
family!”
creativity and allow you to translate your ideas into practical sewing of the finest
quality.
In addition, a wide range of sewing accessories, together with sewing publications
full of practical and creative ideas, add to the joy of sewing the BERNINA way.
It gives me great pleasure to welcome you into the BERNINA family.
H.P. Ueltschi
BERNINA Sewing
Machine Company
www.bernina.com
Fritz Gegauf Ltd. · BERNINA Sewing Machines · CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 3
Contents
1
Safety Instructions
2
Foreword
4–5
6–12
13–14
15
Details of the machine
Setting up the machine
Stitch Summary
Presser feet
16–17
Practical stitches/buttonholes
18–21
General instructions
22–28
Functions
29
Messages
29–37
Buttonholes
37–38
Alphabets/numbers
38–43
Memory
44
Quilt stitches
45
Balance
46
Help
47–48
TC (Tutorial / Creative Consultant)
49
Smart function
50–61
Setup program
62
eco (ecology) function
62–65
Optional accessories
65–67
Needles, Thread, Fabric feed
68
Cleaning and maintenance
69
Troubleshooting
70
Glossary of terms
71–72
Index
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
3
BA_165_engl
4
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 4
Details
Details of the machine
12
17
49
11
10
16
9
14
7
15
13
18
19
20
23
21
22
24
25
30
26
31
27
33
28
6
29
32
8
5
2
4
3
1
35
Front view
37
38
36
39
Back view
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
34
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 5
Details
36
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
41
40
50
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
View from the left side
42
48
49
50
48
47
43
46
44
45
View from the right side
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Bobbin cover
Stitch plate
Attachment base for optional accessories
Darning ring connection
Presser foot
Needle clamp
Thread guide
Needle threader
Thread take-up cover
Thread path
Thread take-up
Bobbin pre-tension
Quick reverse button
F (Favorite Function) button
Pattern end
Screen
Bobbin winder with on/off switch and
thread cutter
Practical stitch button
Buttonhole button
Decorative stitch button
Alphabet button
External embroidery button
Quilt stitch button
clr (Clear) button
mem (Memory) button
Needle stop up/down
“?”( Help) button
TC (Tutorial/Creative Consultant) button
Stitch width knob
Stitch length knob
Needle position
smart button
setup button
eco (Ecology) button
FHS connection (optional accessory)
Presser foot lifter (manual)
Carrying handle
Spool pins
Sewing table socket
Thread cutter
Presser foot pressure dial
Handwheel
Power switch on/off
Power plug socket
Drop feed-dog
Foot control socket
Embroidery module connection
(optional accessory)
PC serial port
Tension adjustment
Magnifying glass holder
5
BA_165_engl
6
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 6
Setting up the machine
Carrying case
Carrying case
· protects from dust and dirt
· compartment for accessories
Accessories
· foot control
· instruction manual
· power cable
· warranty card
· FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System)
· ruler for sewing table
· sewing table (attached)
· To remove the sewing table, lift slightly and remove.
To remove the case
· grasp both sides
· pull up vertically
Accessory box
Standard accessories *
· 4 bobbins
· selection of 130/705H needles
· seam ripper
· small screwdriver
· brush
· seam guide
· reverse pattern foot No.1
· overlock foot No.2
· buttonhole foot No.3
· automatic buttonhole foot No.3A
· zipper foot No.4
· blind stitch foot No.5
· embroidery foot No.6
· jeans foot No.8
· height compensating tool
· vertical spool holder pin
· three spool discs
· foam pad
· Compensation plate for sewing buttonholes
*can vary from country to country
Important:
(USA/Canada only!)
Use only foot controller type LV1
with sewing machine models 165.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 7
Setting up the machine
7
Power cable
The power cable is stored in the case
· plug A into machine
· plug B into electrical outlet
Important! (USA/Canada only)
This sewing machine has a polarized plug
(one blade wider than the other). To
reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug
is intended to fit only one way into a
polarized outlet. If the plug does not fit
fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it
still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
Foot control cable
· plug C into machine
A
C
B
Foot control
Sewing speed
· control the sewing speed
by depressing the foot
control with your toe
· raise or lower the needle
by tapping on the foot
control with your heel
A
B
C
Use only foot controller
type LV1 for sewing
machine model 165
(USA/Canada only)
Cable tidy
· wind the cable round the
spool
· insert the plug into A
When sewing
· unwind the cable to the
desired length and slip
into B or C
Power switch
The power switch is on the
handwheel side of the machine
1 the machine is switched on
0 the machine is switched off
Refer to the safety
instructions!
The sewing light is switched on
and off within the Setup
program.
Sewing table
Larger sewing surface
· the sewing table
increases the sewing
surface
· free arm for larger
tubular items such as
pant legs and waistbands
To attach
· push over the free arm
and press firmly so that it
engages on the fixing lug
(needle and presser foot
fully raised)
To remove
· pull to the left
· remove
Seam guide
· insert into the groove
(underside of table) from
the right
· it can be freely adjusted
over the whole width of
the table
Scale
· number “0” corresponds
to the centre needle
position
FHS (Free Hand System) presser foot lifter
Raising and lowering the
presser foot.
· the presser foot lifter
raises and lowers the
presser foot
· push to the right with
your knee
· the presser foot is raised
and the feed-dogs are
lowered simultaneously
· the feed-dogs come up
automatically as soon as
the first stitch is sewn
Attaching the presser
foot lifter
· the presser foot lifter is
stored in the case.
· insert the presser foot
lifter into the opening in
the base plate
· you should be able to
operate the lifter in your
normal sitting position.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Note:
Your dealer can adjust the
position if necessary.
BA_165_engl
8
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 8
Setting up the machine
Winding the bobbin
Winding the bobbin
· turn power switch on
· place empty bobbin on
spindle
Thread cutter
Threading the bobbin
· following the direction of the arrow take thread through · cut the thread on the
the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud
thread cutter
· wrap the thread around the inner bobbin two or
three times and cut off any excess thread on the thread
cutter
· press the engaging lever against the bobbin
· press the foot control
the motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full
· remove the bobbin
Bobbin case
A
To remove
· raise the needle
· turn power switch to 0
· open the accessory box
cover
· open the bobbin cover
· grasp the latch of the
bobbin case
· remove case
To insert
· hold the bobbin case
latch
· the opening on the case
should be at the top
· insert so that it engages
· close the bobbin cover
· close the accessory box
cover
Bobbin thread cutter
· insert the bobbin case
· take thread over cutter A
· cut thread
Refer to the safety
instructions!
Note:
For normal sewing, the
bobbin thread does not have
to be brought up as the loose
end is just the right length to
start sewing.
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that
the thread runs clockwise.
Pull the thread counterclockwise into the slot.
Pull the thread to the left
under the spring until it
lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
The bobbin must turn
clockwise when the thread
is pulled.
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 9
Setting up the machine
Changing the needle
Removing the needle
· raise the needle
· turn power switch to 0
· lower the presser foot
· loosen the needle clamp with the torx screwdriver
· pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
· flat side of needle to the back
· insert the needle as far as it will go
· tighten the needle clamp
Refer to the safety instructions!
Changing the presser foot
Changing the presser foot
· raise the needle and
presser foot
· turn power switch to “0”
Raising the lever
· raise the clamping lever
· remove the presser foot
Attaching the presser foot
· guide the foot upwards
over the cone
· press the clamping lever
down
Supplementary spool pin (vertical)
Vertical spool pin
· the supplementary spool pin
(vertical) is stored in the accessory
box
· insert the pin from right to left in
the opening
· to remove, pull to the right at the
base of the spool pin
· essential sewing aid when using
more than one thread, i.e. double
needle, etc.
· threads wound onto spools
in a stacked manner work
best when feeding from a
vertical spool pin
· using a vertical spool pin
with metallic threads will
help avoid fraying and
splitting of the thread
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Refer to the safety
instructions!
9
BA_165_engl
10
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 10
Setting up the machine
Threading the upper thread
C
A
Attaching the thread spool
· raise the needle and presser foot
· turn the power switch to «0» (off)
· attach the foam pad
· place spool on pin (spool turns clockwise)
· attach the appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool
disc is disc size. There must be no clearance between
the disc and the spool
· take thread through rear guide A
· then into slit of upper thread tension
D
B
E
Down
· pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
Up
· take thread up to the left of the cover to C in the
direction of the arrow
Down
· take thread down and through guides D and E
Refer to the safety
instructions!
Needle threader
A
Thread in hook
· lower the presser foot
· lay the thread behind
hook A and hold lightly
C
B
Lever down
· press lever B down
Thread in front of needle
· take the thread in front
of the needle C
· pass the thread from the
bottom to the top of the
needle until it catches in
the hook
Let go of lever and thread
· let go of lever B and
thread
· pull the thread loop
through the needle eye
Bringing up the lower thread
Bringing up the lower thread
· if bobbin thread is cut on the cutter
(page 8), there is no need to bring it up
· hold the upper thread
· sew one stitch
· pull the upper thread to bring the lower
thread up through the stitch plate hole
· take both threads through the slit on the
presser foot to the back
· pull threads over the cutter
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Note:
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the
stitch plate for certain
types of work. The length
of thread is sufficient for
most normal work if the
lower thread cutter has
been used.
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 11
Setting up the machine
11
Thread cutter
Thread cutter on head frame
· lower the presser foot and pull both
threads from front to back over the cutter
· the threads release as soon as the first
stitch is sewn
Stitch Plate
1
25
5/8
20
1/4
10
1/4
10
5/8
20
1
25
Stitch plate markings
· the stitch plate is marked with vertical
lines in mm and inches
· mm measurements are at the front
· inch measurements are at the back
· the measurements correspond to the
distance from the needle to the line
· needle insertion point is position 0
(center needle position)
· the mm/inch measurements are marked
to the right and left
· the lines help to guide the fabric for
perfectly spaced stitching
· the horizontal markings are helpful for
sewing buttonholes, etc.
Feed-dog
Button under the handwheel
Button flush with base plate = sewing
position
· for all machine-fed sewing
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered
· for free-hand sewing (darning, freehand embroidery, free-hand quilting)
· for embroidery with the Embroidery
Module
Presser foot pressure
Dial on head frame
· the presser foot pressure
dial is on the left of the
head frame
Standard pressure
· for all normal sewing
Reduced pressure
· for jerseys and loose
knits, quilting
· prevents fabric stretching
· adjust pressure so that
the fabric still feeds
correctly
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Increased pressure
· for sheer, slippery
lightweight fabrics,
quilting
· improves fabric feed and
prevents puckering
BA_165_engl
12
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 12
Setting up the machine
Thread tension
The tension is factory set for best possible sewing results
using a 100 weight, 3 ply polyester thread (100/3). Other
types and weights can affect the stitch, causing a need
for a tension adjustment to get the best results.
3
A
5
Basic setting
· the basic setting is indicated when
the red line on the tension
adjustment wheel is in line with the
marking A
· the tension does not need adjusting
for normal sewing work
· for special sewing, the tension can
be adjusted to suit the fabric
Different threads, including embroidery and decorative
threads, may require tension adjustments. The tensions
should be adjusted to suit the thread, fabric and stitch.
Example:
Tension
Needle
Metallic thread
approximately 3
90
Monofilament
approximately 2–4 80
To reduce the tension
· Adjust to between
3 and 1
To increase the tension
· Adjust to between
5 and 10
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 13
Stitch Summary
Practical stitches
Buttonholes
Decorative stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
13
BA_165_engl
14
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 14
Stitch Summary
Quilt stitches
Alphabets
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 15
Presser feet
15
Presser feet
3
2
1
1
Reverse pattern foot with
code
Practical and decorative
stitches
2
Overlock foot
Overlock seams, hems,
oversewing edges,
narrow satin stitch
3
Buttonhole foot
Buttonholes
5
Blind stitch foot
Blind hems
Edge stitching
3A
Automatic Buttonhole foot
Buttonholes in flat materials, Darning program
8
6
5
4
4
Zipper foot
Sewing in zippers
3A
6
Embroidery foot
Embroidery, applique,
satin stitch seams, monograms
BERNINA Special Presser Feet
8
Jeans foot
Straight stitching in thick,
firm fabrics and over
seams
Samples of Specialty Presser Feet
The standard selection of presser feet covers most normal sewing requirements but we recommend the use of
BERNINA specialty feet for specific sewing tasks such as
quilting, heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring,
etc.
They are available from your BERNINA dealer.
32
9
32
Pintuck foot with 7 grooves
Used with a 2 mm double
needle to stitch pintucks on
medium weight fabrics such
as fine wool and cotton
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
9
Darning foot
Use with the feed dogs in
a lowered position for
darning, monograms, and
freehand embroidery
BA_165_engl
16
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 16
Practical stitches
Practical stitches
1 Straight stitch
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight
stitch work.
11 Super stretch
Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics
such as Lycra,
2 Zig-zag
Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag
applications such as oversewing fine
fabrics, attaching elastic, lace and
appliqué.
12 Gathering stitch
Most types of fabric. Gathering with
shirring elastic. Butted seams (edge to
edge).
3 Vari-overlock
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch
overlock seams and hems.
13 Stretch overlock
Medium weight knits, toweling and
firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat
joining seams.
4 Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending,
patching, reinforcing seams.
14 Jersey stitch
Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics
and delicate knits. Visible seams and
hems. Mending jersey/interlock.
5 Securing stitch
All types of fabric. Secures the
beginning and end of seams sewn
with straight stitch.
15 Universal stitch
Firm fabrics such as felt and leather.
Flat joining seams, visible seams,
sewing on elastic, decorative seams.
6 Triple straight stitch
Reinforced seams in tough, heavy
fabrics.
16 Sewn-out zig-zag
Oversewing woven fabrics, reinforcing
edges, attaching elastic, decorative
seaming.
7 Triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible
hems and seams, decorative stitching,
couching.
17 Lycra stitch
All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining
seams and hems, reinforced seaming
on underwear.
8 Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and smooth
fabrics. Visible seams and hems.
18 Stretch stitch
All stretch fabrics, open seam in
sportswear.
9 Blind stitch
Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell
edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics,
decorative seams.
19 Reinforced overlock
Medium to heavy weight knits and
toweling, overlock seams, flat joining
seams.
10 Double overlock
All types of knit. Sews and finishes
edges in one operation.
20 Knit overlock
All knits, machine or hand sewn.
Overlock = sew and neaten in one.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 17
Practical stitches/Buttonholes
21 Basting
Basting seams, hems, etc.
24 Bar tack program
Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops
etc.
22 Simple darning program
Automatic darning in fine and
medium weight fabrics.
25 Bar tack program
Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops
etc.
23 Reinforced darning program
Automatic darning in heavy
weight fabrics.
17
For more information on using various
practical stitches, refer to the artista 165
Sewing Manual, pages 2–20.
Buttonholes
51 Standard buttonhole
Fine to medium weight fabrics.
Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinen, etc.
57 Keyhole buttonhole with pointed
bartack
For non-stretch firm fabrics.
Jackets, coats, leisure wear.
52 Standard buttonhole narrow (heirloom)
Fine to medium weight fabrics.
Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers, children’s and baby clothes, doll clothes and
heirloom.
58 Keyhole buttonhole with horizontal
bartack
For firm, non-stretch fabrics.
Jackets, coats, leisure wear.
53 Stretch buttonhole
All stretch fabrics made from cotton,
wool silk and synthetic fibers.
59 Straight stitch buttonhole
For reinforcing satin stitched
buttonholes, making bound
buttonholes, and stitching
buttonholes leather or imitation
suede.
54 Round buttonhole with normal bartack
For medium to heavy weight fabrics
of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats,
rainwear.
60 Button sewing on program
For buttons with 2 and 4 holes.
55 Round buttonhole with horizontal
bartack
For medium to heavy weight fabrics
£of all types. Clothes, jackets, coats,
rainwear.
61 Narrow zig-zag eyelet
Opening for cords and narrow
ribbons/bands, decorative work.
56 Keyhole buttonhole with normal
bartack
Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics.
Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear,
etc.
62 Straight stitch eyelet
Opening for cords and narrow ribbons.
For more information on stitching various
types of buttonholes, refer to the artista
165 Sewing Manual, pages 21–30.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
18
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 18
General instructions
Screen
The artista is operated with a combination of external buttons and
knobs and a touch screen.
Switch machine on
· power switch to “1”
Welcome screen
· welcome
· appears for approximately 3 seconds
· can be omitted in the Setup program
165
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
K
J
Practical stitch screen
· the practical stitch screen appears
immediately after the welcome
· screen shows:
A – presser foot indicator
B – needle stop position
C – assigned “F” button function
D – selected stitch and number
E – stitch width (basic setting
always visible)
I
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
F – needle position (11 possibilities)
G – up/down scroll arrows
H – stitch length
(basic setting always visible)
I – scroll arrows for functions
J – stitch selection with numbers
(selected stitch is highlighted)
K– functions
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 19
General instructions
19
On screen stitch selection/stitch display/functions
Select a stitch
· touch the stitch of your choice
· the stitch is highlighted
· every stitch is displayed with its
number
Altering the needle
position
· press the right or
left needle position
button
· each press moves
the needle one
point to the right or
left
Altering the stitch width
· turn the upper knob
Presser foot indicator
· the recommended
presser foot is
displayed by number
· altered width is shown on the
stitch width bar (basic setting
visible)
· stitch is displayed with altered
setting
· the stitch width can be altered
from 0–5.5 mm
· stitch width bar automatically
shows 0–5
Return to basic settings
· press the external
clr button
· the stitch will revert
to its basic settings
Altering the stitch length
· turn the lower knob
· altered length is shown on the
stitch length bar
· the basic setting will be visible
(shown at 3mm)
· stitch length can be altered from
0 mm to 5.5 mm on most stitches
Display of selected stitch
(to the left of stitch width bar)
· the stitch number is always visible
in the center of the upper portion
of the screen
· stitch number is displayed to the
top left of the stitch graphic in the
center of the upper portion of the
screen
Selecting functions
· touch the function of your choice
· the selected function is highlighted
(a number of different functions
can be selected simultaneously)
· touch the function toolbar arrow to
scroll more functions
· activate another function if desired
· touch the toolbar arrow to scroll
again
· the toolbar can be customized in
Setup
· for more information functions, see
pages
22–28
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Needle stop
adjustment
· press the needle
stop button
· arrow points down
· the machine always
stops with the
needle down
· press needle stop
button again –
needle stop reverts
to up (arrow points
up)
BA_165_engl
20
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 20
General instructions
Stitch selection
Stitches can be selected using one of the two methods listed below.
Direct selection by scrolling up/down
· touch the arrow (down)
· scroll the screen to view all stitches
· the top row disappears
· the next two rows move up
· a new row appears at the bottom
· touch the arrow (up)
· the first row of stitches appears
again
· the scroll function (up/down) is
used to find and view all the
machine’s stitches
· use when a visual search for a
particular stitch is needed when the
desired stitch is located, touch it to
select
Select a stitch by number
· touch the function “0–9”
· the screen changes to stitch
numbers
· touch numbers to select the stitch
of your choice
· the number of the selected stitch
appears in the top row
Correct
· to correct mistakes or deselect,
touch del top right
· the cursor moves to the left and
deletes the number
· select new number
Confirm and go to next screen
· touch OK to confirm
· touch esc
· the screen displays the selected
stitch
· the selected stitch is active
(highlighted)
· the stitch selected by number will
be ignored
Note:
The screen does not react if an
unavailable stitch number is
entered.
Back to previous screen
· touch esc
· the previous screen appears
Simple menu selection
Practical
stitches
Buttonholes
Decorative
stitches
Quilt stitches
Alphabets
Embroidery
Practical stitch button
· the practical stitch menu appears
· straight stitch top left is active
· 15 practical stitches appear on the
screen
· use arrows to scroll for viewing
additional stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
External menu buttons
· press a button
· the program is selected
· the first stitch/stitch program or
stitch summary appears on the
screen
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 21
General instructions
Buttonhole button
· the buttonhole menu appears,
including the eyelet and button
sew-on programs
Decorative stitch button
· the decorative stitch menu appears
· pattern types can be selected
· 5.5 mm decorative stitches
· touch to select the desired stitch
group
· the selected stitch group appears
Alphabet button
· the alphabet menu appears
· touch to select the alphabet of your
choice
Quilt stitch button
· the menu appears
· touch symbol to activate quilt
stitches
External connections
· the following accessories can be
connected to the machine
· embroidery module
· embroidery cards
· menu appears
· touch to select
Setup
· press the external Setup button
· menu appears
· use Setup to customize your
machine’s settings
· stitches and functions can be
combined to form a customized
(Personal program) menu
· customized menu (Personal
program) can be saved
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· saved customized menu (Personal
program) can be opened at any
time
· customized settings can be
cancelled at any time
21
BA_165_engl
22
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 22
Functions
External function buttons
clr (Clear) button
· press the clr button
· stitch length, width and needle
position will be returned to basic
settings
· most functions will be deleted (see
individual functions)
mem (Memory)
· press the mem button
· memory is open and appears on
the screen
· the memory bar replaces the third
row of stitches on the screen
· see chapter on Memory
· press mem button to close
· for more information on using the
memory, see pages 38–43
Needle stop adjustment
· the default setting of the needle is
in the “up” position
· press the needle stop button
· the on-screen arrow points down
· the machine will always stop with
needle down
· press the needle stop button again
to revert to needle stop up
“?” (Help)
· press the Help button
· touch a stitch or function
· explanation for the selected stitch
or function appears
TC (Tutorial/Sewing Consultant)
· press the button
· menu appears
· Tutorial (instructions in brief)
· Creative Consultant (advice on
fabric/needle/techniques)
· touch to select the desired menu
· the information selected is activated and the appropriate screen
will appear
Needle position
· press the left or right needle
position button
· the needle moves to the right or
left
· total of 11 needle positions: 5 left,
5 right, center
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Smart button
· press the Smart button
· the stitch is saved with all
adjustments to width, length, and
needle position
· select a new stitch, e.g. buttonholes
· press the Smart button to return to
the previous screen with saved
settings
· use the Smart button to toggle
between stitches as you work
Setup
· press Setup
· menu appears
· use Setup to customize your
machine’s settings
· stitches and functions can be
combined to form a customized
menu (Personal program)
· customized menu (Personal
program) can be saved
· saved customized menu (Personal
program) can be opened at any
time
· customized settings can be
cancelled at any time
eco (ecology) button
· press the eco button
· energy use by the machine is cut
by 50%
· particularly useful for long
interruptions in work
· all settings remain active; foot
control is inactive
· screen saver is activated
· press the eco button again to
restore the sewing machine to
normal function
Quick reverse button (above needle)
· press the quick reverse button
· secure the seam beginning and end
– sews in reverse as long as button
is depressed
· used to program buttonhole length
· used to program darning length
· used to switch to straight stitch
securing program (Stitch no. 5)
· used to start/stop stitching with
the embroidery module (special
accessory)
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 23
Functions
23
F (Favorite function) button
(above needle)
· this button can be individually
programmed in Setup with a
function of your choice
· selected function can be cancelled
and reprogrammed at any time
with another function
· personal program can be
programmed into “F” button
· for more information on the
Favorite function button, see
page 54
Single Pattern (above needle)
· press the pattern end button
· machine stops at the end of the
next stitch pattern sewn
On-screen functions
Fields are highlighted when functions are activated.
Activated functions can be cancelled individually by
pressing a second time.
All selected functions can be cancelled simultaneously by
pressing the external clr button.
Exceptions:
Needle stop and Double needle limitation.
These functions must always be cancelled individually.
General functions
The following functions are found on various screens and
programs of the artista sewing machine. They are consistently
used in the same manner for specific tasks when accessing and
moving between different programs.
Scroll up
· touch one or more times
· screen scrolls up to show more
options
· touch the symbol continuously to
scroll quickly
Scroll down
· touch one or more times
· screen scrolls down to show more
options
· touch the symbol continuously to
scroll quickly
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Closing special applications
· touch esc
· the special application closes
· returns to previous screen
OK
· touch to confirm and activate
adjustment/selection, e.g. thread
tension change
· programmed adjustment/selection
is ready to sew
BA_165_engl
24
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 24
Functions
Function toolbar
The following functions are available on the artista
sewing machines. Any function which can be used in the
selected program will appear on the screen in the bottom
row. If there are more than eight (or four memory
Complete function toolbar as it
appears in the practical stitch program.
functions), the remaining ones will be hidden and can be
accessed by using the arrow in the lower right corner to
scroll. When a hidden function is active, the arrow will
flash.
Hidden functions that can be
accessed by scrolling with the arrow.
Note: The scroll arrow and the 0–9 (stitch selection by
number) will remain on the screen for easy access and will
never be hidden. A total of eight functions (or four regular
and four memory functions) will shown on-screen.
Pattern begin
· touch symbol
· the needle moves to the beginning
of a stitch or stitch combination
· field is highlighted but reverts to
normal after 2 seconds or after
beginning to sew
· if selecting Pattern begin for a
memory combination, the cursor
will appear to the right of the first
stitch on-screen
Applications:
· embroidery, buttonholes, working
in memory
Securing
· touch symbol
· individual stitches will be secured at
the beginning and end with
4 stitches
· securing in memory: stitch and
letter combinations will be secured
at the beginning and end
Applications:
· sewing individual decorative
stitches
· sewing individual letters
· sewing stitch combinations and
words
Long stitch
· touch symbol
· machine sews every second stitch
(max. stitch length 10 mm)
· can be activated for all practical
and decorative stitches except
buttonholes
· functions and stitches can be
combined
· can be saved in memory
· does not operate with the
embroidery module (special
accessory)
Applications:
· combine with straight stitch to
baste
· combine with triple straight stitch
for topstitching
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Motor speed 1⁄4, 1⁄2, 3⁄4, 4⁄4
· touch symbol one or more times to
select speed
· selected speed is displayed
· reduces or increases the motor
speed
· will sew the selected maximum
speed with the foot control fully
depressed
Applications:
· adjust speed for decorative sewing
machine work such as freehand
embroidery or freehand quilting
and when more control is desired
for the sewing task
· when children are sewing
Pattern end 1–9
· touch symbol one or more times to
select number required
· 1 = machine stops at the end of an
individual stitch or stitch combination
· 2–9 = machine stops at the end of a
stitch or stitch combination after
the number of repeats selected
Applications:
· sewing individual motifs
· combine with practical stitches and
decorative sewing
Horizontal mirror image
· touch symbol
· machine sews selected the stitch in
horizontal mirror image (left/right –
determined by the sewing direction)
· can be saved in memory
Applications:
· decorative stitching
· pattern combinations in memory
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 25
Functions
Stitch selection by number
· touch number symbol
· select stitch by touching the
appropriate number combination
Applications:
· quick selection of individual stitch
· quick selection for stitch
combination in memory
Scroll
· touch one or more times to view
more functions
Applications:
· view all available functions
· combine functions with stitches for
individual motifs or in memory
Vertical mirror image
· touch symbol
· machine sews selected stitch in
vertical mirror image (up/down –
determined by the sewing direction)
· can be saved in memory
Applications:
· decorative stitching
· pattern combinations in memory
Pattern extension 2–5x
· touch one or more times
· the numbers 2–5 appear
depending on the type of stitch
selected
· the length of selected stitch will
be increased by 2–5 times
· lengthened stitches can be
programmed in memory
Applications:
· lengthen existing patterns
without affecting the stitch
density
· combine stitches
Double needle limitation
· touch one or more times to select
number from 2 to 5
· the numbers represent the distance
between the needles in mm
· the stitch width will be limited
automatically
· this prevents the needles from hitting the presser foot or stitch plate,
avoiding needle breakage
· can be saved in memory
Applications:
· sewing pintucks
· hemming knits
· decorative stitching
Note: There is one additional function, Hemstitch Needle
Limitation, available for placement on the function
toolbar (see Functions in Setup, page 26). This can be
placed on the toolbar using the Setup program
(see page 54).
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
25
Continuous reverse sewing
· touch symbol
· sews the selected stitch in reverse
Application:
· darning with straight or running
stitch
· decorative stitching on sleeves or
trouser legs
· quilting
Half pattern
· touch symbol
· machine automatically stops at the
halfway point of the stitch pattern
· when stitching is resumed, the
pattern is completed and the first
half of the next pattern is stitched
before the machine automatically
stops again
· use Single pattern to stop at the
end of the second half of the stitch
pattern
Application:
· turning corners
· altering decorative stitches for a
new look
Balance
· touch symbol to open balance
screen
· correct forwards and reverse stitches
Applications:
· adapting practical and decorative
stitches to various types of
fabrics
· altering decorative stitches for a
new look
· adapting buttonholes to different
fabrics
Clear All
· clears all settings that were
changed except those that were
changed using the Setup program
· returns to default settings
· Settings affected:
Continuous Reverse
Long Stitch
Pattern End
Securing Function
Horizontal Mirror Image
Vertical Mirror Image
Pattern Extend
Balance
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Needle Position
Half Pattern
Double Needle Limitation
Hemstitch Needle Limitation
Needle Stop Position
Motor Speed
Alphabet Size
Stored Buttonholes
BA_165_engl
26
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 26
Functions
Functions in Setup
The functions below are found in the Setup program of the
artista sewing machine. They are accessed by pressing the
external Setup button on the front of the machine and then
touching Functions on the screen. These functions are used
when setting the features and functions of the machine to your
personal requirements.
Personal program
· touch symbol
· personal screen appears
Delete functions
· touch symbol
· delete functions
Applications:
· quick method to open personal
program
Insert functions
· touch symbol
· insert functions
Reset
· touch symbol
· personal settings are reverted to
basic settings
The function below is available in the Setup program of
the artista sewing machine. It is a sewing function used
from the sewing screens; however, it will not show up on
the toolbar at the lower edge of the screen unless
specifically placed there. For more information, see
pages 53–55.
Hemstitch (wing) needle limitation
· will not show up on the toolbar
unless it is inserted by the user
· can be installed in the Setup
program
· the stitch width is limited
automatically
· needle position limited to center
· prevents the needle hitting the
presser foot or stitch plate – no
needle breakage
Application:
· hemstitching
· decorative stitching·
Functions in Memory
Check
· touch symbol
· memory contents are displayed
Application:
· check and correct memory contents
Delete
· touch symbol
· delete individual stitches or letters
to the left of the cursor
· delete stitch combinations
Select memory
· the opened memory is displayed
with its number
· touch to display the contents of the
memory bank
· touch esc to close memory bank
· press the external mem button to
close memory
Applications:
· working in memory
· saving stitch combinations
Store
· touch symbol
· saves individual stitches, stitch
combinations and letters in memory
Application:
· corrections in memory
· delete complete memories
Applications:
· saving programs
Scroll left
· touch symbol one or several times
· memory contents are scrolled
backwards
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 27
Functions
Scroll right
· touch symbol one or several times
· memory contents are scrolled
forwards
27
Edit memory contents
· touch symbol
· correct, edit stitches, letters or
numbers to the left of the cursor
· insert functions, mirror image
· touch symbol again to close edit
screen
Applications:
· correcting, changing memory
contents
Functions in Editing
The following functions become available in the center
of the screen when the edit function is selected. All
functions on the toolbar (except del) will become inactive
when the edit function is selected and will reactivate
when the edit function is closed.
Motor speed
· touch symbol one or more times to
select speed
· selected speed is displayed
· full speed is 880 stitches per minute
(unless the basic setting has been
changed in the Setup program)
· reduces or increases the sewing
speed 1/ 4 at a time ( 1/ 4, 2/ 4, 3/ 4, 4/ 4)
Vertical mirror image
· touch symbol
· machine sews selected stitch in
vertical mirror image
· alteration of selected stitch is
shown on-screen
Securing function
· touch symbol
· the end of the last stitch in the
memory will be secured with
4 tiny stitches
Memory sub-division
· touch symbol
· the memory has up to 255 sections
or banks
· each bank can be subdivided as
desired
· total memory (all banks together)
holds 1023 stitches
Long stitch
· touch symbol
· machine sews every second stitch
(max. stitch length 10 mm)
Horizontal mirror image
· touch symbol
· machine sews selected stitch in
horizontal mirror image
· alteration of selected stitch is
shown on-screen
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Pattern Extend 2–5x
· touch one or more times
· the numbers 2–5 appear depending
on the type of stitch selected
· the length of selected stitch will be
increased by 2–5 times
· the stitch density is not affected
· lengthened stitches can be
programmed in memory
Balance
· touch symbol to open balance
screen
· correct forwards and reverse
stitches
Letter size
· touch one or more times
· one half of field is highlighted
· the gray section visually indicates
the letter size: large (5,5 mm) or
small (4 mm)
BA_165_engl
28
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 28
Functions
Buttonhole program functions
The functions below appear on the function toolbar at
the lower edge of the screen when any buttonhole
(stitches 51–62) is selected.
Buttonhole length – direct length
entry
· touch symbol to open number
screen
· Buttonhole length =
buttonhole opening in mm
Manual buttonhole
· touch symbol
· follow procedure (4–6 steps,
depending on buttonhole type)
Application:
· for individual manually sewn
buttonholes
· to repair existing buttonholes
Application:
· use this method if you know the
size of your button
Stitch counter buttonhole
· select buttonhole
· touch symbol
· stitch counter buttonhole will be
activated
Buttonhole length – on screen
measurement
· touch symbol to open measuring
screen
· hold button to bottom lower left
corner of screen and use the stitch
width knob to measure it
· buttonhole length will be
programmed with 2mm added
automatically
Application:
· simple method to determine
buttonhole size
Alphabet program functions
The following functions will appear in the lower left
corner of the screen when a letter of an alphabet is
selected. It will reduce the number of normal functions
shown on the toolbar by one, causing it to be hidden.
Letter size
· appears in toolbar when any letter
or character of one of three
styles of alphabets is selected
· touch one or more times
· one half of field is highlighted
· the gray section visually indicates
the letter size: large or small
Applications:
· size selection
· works in memory (letters do not
have to be reprogrammed but can
be resized using the edit function)
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 29
Messages/Buttonholes
29
Messages
The following messages may appear on the screen of
the artista sewing machine during certain operations.
They are reminders, warnings, or confirmations about
the function or stitch being selected. Below is a list
of the messages pertaining to the sewing machine (see
embroidery manual for messages that pertain to the
embroidery module) and the appropriate responses.
MESSAGE
RESPONSE
Please check the upper thread.
Check to see if the needle thread has run out or has
broken. Rethread the needle thread if needed. Machine
will not sew until this is corrected.
The bobbin winder is on.
Check to see if bobbin winder is on. If the bobbin winder
is on, the foot pedal is inactive and the machine will not
sew. Disengage the winder if needed. Machine will not
sew until this is corrected.
Note: This message will appear when winding a bobbin;
touch esc to clear it from the screen.
Do you really want to delete the
contents of this memory?
Confirms the delete command before any stitches or
functions are erased from memory. Touch OK to continue
with the deletion process; touch esc to abort the process.
Personal Program memory is full.
To save a stitch, an already saved stitch must be deleted.
Memory is full.
To save a stitch, an already saved stitch must be deleted.
Buttonholes
Buttonholes are practical closures
which can also be used for a
decorative effect. The artista165
provides a very versatile selection.
Buttonholes/Button sewing on program/eyelets
· press the external Buttonhole
button (to the right of screen)
· screen shows an overview of all
buttonhole and eyelet types
· 51 standard
· 52 narrow (heirloom)
· 53 stretch
· 54 round with normal bartack
· 55 round with horizontal bartack
· 56 keyhole with normal bartack
· 57 keyhole with pointed bartack
· 58 keyhole with horizontal bartack
· 59 straight stitch buttonhole
All buttonholes can be sewn and
programmed in a variety of ways.
· 60 button sew-on program
· 61 zig-zag eyelet
· 62 straight stitch eyelet
Select buttonhole/button sew-on
program/eyelet
· touch symbol
· selected buttonhole, eyelet or
button sew-on program is activated
· If one of the buttonholes (51–62) is
activated, all functions are reset to
the default settings
The following buttonholes and related stitches are found on the
buttonhole screen.
For additional information on uses for each type, see page 17.
51 Standard buttonhole
53 Stretch
buttonhole
55 Round
buttonhole horizontal
bartack
52 Narrow
buttonhole
(heirloom)
54 Round
buttonhole normal bartack
56 Keyhole
buttonhole –
normal bartack
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
30
Buttonholes
9:34 Uhr
Seite 30
57 Keyhole
buttonhole –
pointed bartack
59 Straight Stitch
buttonhole
61 Eyelet –
narrow zigzag
58 Keyhole
buttonhole –
horizontal
bartack
60 Button Sewon program
62 Eyelet –
straight stitch
Automatic buttonholes (standard and stretch)
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
Note: the automatic buttonhole foot 3A must lie flat on
the fabric, i.e. not on a seam allowance, otherwise the
length will not be measured accurately.
3A
Automatic buttonhole
· the lens on the buttonhole foot 3A will register the
length that you determine automatically
· for making buttonholes from 4–29 mm length
For buttonhole example,
refer to the artista 165
Sewing Manual, page 25.
Sewing the first bead
· the sewn section will be
displayed on the screen
(to the right of the
presser foot indicator)
· sew the first bead
forwards, stop the
machine at the desired
length
Buttonhole Leveler (optional accessory)
When sewing a buttonhole using Automatic Buttonhole Foot
No. 3A on an uneven area (such as over a seam allowance),
use the Buttonhole Leveler. This accessory will create a smooth
surface for the foot and help make a perfect buttonhole.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Programming the
buttonhole
· press and release the
quick reverse button
· auto appears in
buttonhole symbol =
length is programmed
· machine sews straight
stitch backwards
Auto buttonhole
· machine sews first
bartack automatically
· machine sews second
bead forwards
· machine sews second
bartack automatically
· machine sews securing
stitches automatically
· machine stops and
returns automatically to
the beginning of the
buttonhole
· all subsequent
buttonholes will be sewn
automatically to the
same length (without
pressing the quick
reverse button)
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 31
Buttonholes
31
Automatic buttonholes (round and keyhole)
Both beads of the buttonhole are
sewn in the same direction.
3A
Note: The graphics shown on the
screen are the same as for a standard
buttonhole (see above) when stitching a round or keyhole buttonhole
For buttonhole example, refer to the
artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 26.
Buttonhole length =
buttonhole opening in mm
Sewing the first straight stitches
· the sewn section will be displayed
on the screen (to the right of the
presser foot indicator)
· sew straight stitches forwards, stop
the machine at the desired length
Programming the buttonhole
· press the quick reverse button
· when auto appears under the buttonhole symbol, the buttonhole is
programmed
Auto buttonhole
· machine sews circle or eye
automatically
· machine sews the first bead
backwards automatically
· machine sews straight stitches
forwards up to circle or eye
· machine sews 2nd bead backwards
automatically
· machines sews bar tack
automatically
· machines sews securing stitches
automatically
· machine stops and returns
automatically to the beginning of
the buttonhole
· all subsequent buttonholes will be
sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the
securing button)
Automatic buttonhole (all types)
Direct entry length
If the desired length of a buttonhole
is known, it can be directly entered
into the machine (in millimeters).
3A
When using the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A for stitching
keyhole buttonholes, the maximum
length that should be entered is
24 mm. That leaves room for the
keyhole, which the machine will add
automatically.
Enter the length
· numbers 1–0 appear on the screen
· enter the buttonhole length
(4 – 29 mm) with numbers
· the length appears to the right of
the buttonhole symbol
· touch OK to confirm, screen
changes automatically
Buttonhole length =
buttonhole opening in mm
On-screen display
· ”auto” below the buttonhole
symbol indicates that the
buttonhole is programmed
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Open number screen
· buttonholes can be sewn to a
specific length with the automatic
buttonhole foot 3A
· select type of buttonhole
· touch buttonhole with question
mark symbol
Corrections:
· touch del to delete wrong numbers
Back to buttonhole menu
· touch esc
BA_165_engl
32
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 32
Buttonholes
Automatic buttonhole (standard and stretch)
Length calculated from button
3A
The buttonhole size can be determined by holding a button on the
screen. The length will be determined
by the machine and displayed on the
screen.
Open calculation screen
· select buttonhole
· touch button size function
Determine button size
· a scale appears on the screen
· hold the button (4 – 27 mm) against
the bottom left corner of the
screen
· use the external stitch width knob
to move the vertical line on the
screen, changing the size of the
box around the button
· the buttonhole size is shown in mm
on the right, e.g. 20 mm
Back to buttonhole menu
· touch OK to confirm and return to
buttonhole screen
Corrections for thick buttons
· for buttons which are particularly
thick, e.g. raised buttons etc., do
not move the vertical line right up
to the edge of the button
· move it to within about 1–4 mm of
the right edge of the button,
depending on the button height
Recommendation
· sew a test buttonhole on a scrap of
the fabric and interfacing you
intend to use
· cut buttonhole open
· push button through hole
· correct the size if necessary
Buttonhole size
· the computer calculates the
buttonhole size from the button
diameter
· 2 mm are added automatically to
take the bartacks of the buttonhole
into account
Stitch counter buttonholes (all types)
The first bead of the buttonhole is
sewn forward and the second,
backwards.
3
The appearance of a stitch counter
buttonhole can vary on different
types of fabric so it must be
reprogrammed for different fabrics.
Stitch using Buttonhole Foot No.3 or
Automatic Buttonhole Foot No.3A;
and sew at a consistent speed.
Presser foot
· select buttonhole
· touch the presser foot No.3 symbol
· the machine registers that the stitch
counter program has been selected
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· the buttonhole length is now
measured by the stitch counter, i.e.
number of stitches
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 33
Buttonholes
33
1st bead length
· sew the first bead, stopping the
machine at the desired buttonhole
length
· press and release the quick reverse
button on the frame
Bartack, 2nd bead
· the machine sews the end of the
buttonhole and automatically
switches to stitching the reverse
bead
· Continue stitching the reverse
bead, stopping when the needle is
even with the beginning of the
buttonhole
· press and release the quick reverse
button
Bartack, securing stitches
· the machine sews 5 bartack stitches
and secures the buttonhole
automatically
· auto appears under the graphic of
the buttonhole on the screen
· the buttonhole is now programmed
· all subsequent buttonholes will be
sewn as programmed
Changes
· the buttonhole must be
reprogrammed after altering the
stitch length, width, or balance
For buttonhole example, refer to the
artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 27.
Buttonhole corrections (all types)
The following adjustments can be made to a buttonhole
and will remain in effect until the machine is turned off.
Permanent adjustments can be made using the Setup
program (see pages 50–61).
Buttonhole too wide
· to reduce the width of the
buttonhole, reduce the stitch width
Bead density
· increase or reduce the stitch length
by approximately 2 steps to achieve
the desired effect
Balancing the beads
· balance will influence the bead and
the eye density
· balance affects both beads and the
eye
Open balance screen
· select buttonhole
· touch Balance
· balance ↑ to increase the density
· balance ↓ to reduce the density
· sew buttonhole until area to be
corrected is reached. Adjust
balance. Continue sewing. The
correction will be incorporated in
all subsequent buttonholes.
Recommendation:
· always test sew on the piece of
fabric you intend to use
Delete balance adjustments
· press clr or touch reset
For additional information about
buttonholes, refer to the artista 165
Sewing Manual, pages 21–28.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
34
Buttonholes
9:34 Uhr
Seite 34
Buttonhole in Long Term Memory
One buttonhole of each type may be
saved in special buttonhole memory
banks. This does not affect the
standard memory of the machine.
3A
Once the length of the buttonhole is
determined, the programmed
buttonhole can be saved using the
store function on the toolbar.
Long term saving of buttonhole
programs is only possible for buttonholes originally stitched as autolength buttonholes (see pages
29–32).
Saving the Buttonhole (Store)
· program the desired automatic
buttonhole according to the
directions on pages 29–32
· touch store on the function toolbar
Recalling the Saved Buttonhole
· select the desired buttonhole style
· touch mem
· touch the buttonhole length or
button measurement function to
recall the saved buttonhole
· the length of the buttonhole will
appear on the screen
Changing the Saved Buttonhole
· select the desired buttonhole style
· touch mem
· touch the buttonhole length or
button measurement function to
recall the saved buttonhole
· change the length, and touch OK to
confirm
· touch store
· programming a new length overrides the existing stored one
Manual 4–6 step buttonholes
Manual buttonholes are ideal when
making single buttonholes or for
repairing existing buttonholes. The
number of steps depends on the type
of buttonhole selected.
Note: A manual buttonhole cannot
be saved.
Open buttonhole screen
· select buttonhole
· touch the man function
Step symbols
· step symbols appears on the screen
for the buttonhole selected
· the arrow in the circle is on “0”
when the buttonhole is selected
· standard buttonhole has 6 steps
· round buttonhole has 4 steps
· keyhole buttonhole has 4 steps
For buttonhole example, refer to the
artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 28.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 35
Buttonholes
35
Sewing a Four-step Buttonhole (round and keyhole)
Note:
The graphics shown above will
appear on the screen for both the
round and keyhole buttonholes.
Sewing a 4-step buttonhole
· touch “1”
· sew the 1st bead
· stop the machine at the desired
length
· touch “2”
· machine sews the keyhole or eye
· touch “3”
· machine sews the 2nd bead in
reverse
· stop machine at the first stitch
· touch “4”
· machine sews the top bartack and
securing stitches before stopping
automatically
· length of beads is determined by
the user
· bartack, keyhole, and securing
stitches are preprogrammed
· use an awl to punch the keyhole
before cutting the buttonhole open
Leave program
· touch esc
· screen reverts to buttonhole screen
Sewing a Six-step Buttonhole
Note: The graphics shown on the screen (see below) are the same when
stitching the standard, narrow, and stretch buttonholes.
Sewing a 6-step buttonhole
· touch “1” on the screen
· symbol shows section of button to
be sewn
· sew the 1st bead
· stop stitching at the desired length
Sewing the buttonhole
· touch “2”
· machine sews straight stitch
backwards
· stop machine at the first stitch
· touch “3”
· machine sews the top bartack and
stops automatically
· touch “4”
· machine sews the second bead in
the forward direction
· stop machine
Leave program
· touch esc
· screen reverts to buttonhole screen
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· touch “5”
· machine sews the bottom bartack
and stops automatically
· touch “6”
· machine sews securing stitches and
stops automatically
· length of beads is determined by
the user
· bartacks and securing stitches are
preprogrammed
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
36
Buttonholes
9:34 Uhr
Seite 36
Straight stitch buttonholes
Straight stitched buttonholes are
particularly useful for reinforcing
satin stitched buttonholes on all soft
and loosely woven fabrics such as
wool, or for buttonholes which are
subject to extreme wear. They are
also useful for stitching bound
buttonholes and reinforcing
buttonhole openings in leather, vinyl,
or felt.
Straight stitched buttonholes
· select stitch No. 59
· the sequence is determined by the
presser foot used
· this program functions exactly the
same as the corresponding
buttonhole program which will be
stitched over the straight stitched
buttonhole
· Automatic buttonhole foot No.3A
– programming is exactly the same
as for the auto buttonhole
program (page 29–32)
· Buttonhole foot No.3 –
programming is exactly the same
as for the stitch counter
buttonhole program
(page 32–33).
Alter the distance
· alter the stitch width if the distance
between the two rows of stitching
is too narrow or too wide
Cutting buttonholes open
Seam ripper
· use the seam ripper to cut the buttonhole open,
starting at each end and working towards the middle
Buttonhole cutter and block
· place the fabric on a piece of wood
· position the cutter in the center of the buttonhole
· press the handle of the cutter to punch the buttonhole
Button sew-on program
Buttons with 2 and 4 holes can be
sewn on by machine.
Button sew-on program
· select stitch 60
· the button sew-on foot No.18 is
available as a special accessory
· the distance (shank) between the
button and fabric can be adjusted
as desired
18
For button sew-on example,
refer to the artista 165 Sewing
Manual, page 29.
Sew button on
2-hole buttons
· adjust the stitch width if necessary
to equal the distance between the
holes of the button
· machine stops automatically at the
end of the program
· wind thread ends around the thread
under the button to create a thread
shank
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
4 hole buttons
· adjust the stitch width if necessary
to equal the distance between the
holes of the button
· sew the two front holes
· move work forwards
· sew two back holes
· wind thread ends around the thread
under the button to create a thread
shank
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 37
Buttonholes/Alphabets/Numbers
37
Eyelet program
Eyelets
· select eyelet
· 61 zig-zag eyelet
· 62 straight stitch eyelet
Sewing the eyelet
· machine stops automatically at the
end of the program
Punching the eyelet
· use an awl to punch the hole in the
eyelet
For eyelet examples, refer to the
artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 30.
There is a choice of three different
alphabet styles.
Each alphabet can be sewn in two
sizes.
Alphabets/numbers
Alphabets
· press the external Alphabet button
· the Alphabet menu appears
· screen shows:
· Block letters
· Double block letters
· Upper case italics
· touch to select the desired style
· the selected style is activated
Screen: Letter selection
· the presser foot indicator and
needle stop symbol are in the usual
positions
· scroll up and down to select letters
and numbers
Alter size
· when an alphabet is selected the
larger size is activated
· touch symbol
· the highlighted area changes
For alphabet example, refer to the
artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 43.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· this indicates that the smaller size is
active
· touch symbol again
· the larger size is now active
BA_165_engl
38
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 38
Alphabets/Numbers/Memory
Programming letters/numbers
Programming
· open memory
· touch to select letter
· the letter appears in memory
· the cursor moves to the right
behind the letter
Continue programming
· touch to select the next letter
· the letter appears in memory
· continue in this manner
· for additional information on
saving in memory, see pages 38–43
For alphabet example, refer to the
artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 43.
Memory
Stitches, letters and numbers can be
programmed, saved and corrected in
memory.
The memory has a capacity of 1023
stitches that can be divided into 255
memory segments or banks. The
memory banks are as large as
required, depending on the number
of stitches that are saved in each
one.
The memory is long-term, i.e.
contents remain saved until they
are deleted or overwritten. Power
disconnections or long periods of
non-use do not have any effect on
the memory contents.
Any alterations to stitch length,
stitch width, and needle position
should be made before entering the
stitch into memory.
In contrast to the stitch menu,
selected stitches are shown turned
90˚ counter clockwise in the memory
bar. The sewing direction is always
from left to right on the memory bar.
For memory examples, refer to
the artista 165 Sewing Manual,
pages 41–43.
Open Memory
Open Memory
· press the external mem button
· the memory bar appears on the
screen
· the third row of stitches disappears
from the screen
· scroll up and down to view these
and further stitches
· the cursor appears as a vertical line
in the memory bar
· all changes (programming, inserting
functions, corrections) affect the
character to the left of the cursor
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· the function toolbar at the bottom
of the screen changes automatically
to include those functions appropriate for memory
· the opened memory bank is indicated by its number in the bottom bar
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 39
Memory
39
Programming stitches
Programming
· select the desired stitch
· make any desired adjustments to
stitch width, stitch length, and
needle position
· open the memory by pressing the
external mem button
· touch mem 1 to access the memory
storage screen
Note: if the machine has been
turned off since the last time the
memory feature was used, mem 1
Continue programming
· select the next desired stitch
· the stitch appears in the mem field
· continue in this manner
· start sewing; when the foot control
is pressed, the cursor will go to the
beginning of the stitch combination
for sewing the complete grouping
Note: if the contents of the memory
have been changed using the edit
function (page 40), the Pattern
begin function must be selected to
start the stitching at the beginning
of the combination.
·
·
·
·
·
will show on the screen when the
memory is activated. If the machine
has not been turned off, the last
memory bank opened will show.
select an empty memory bank
touch OK to return to the previous
screen
select the desired stitch
the stitch appears in the mem field
the cursor moves to the right as
stitches are selected
· use Pattern end to stop
automatically
Toolbar function – Pattern end will
stop after the selected number of
combinations have been stitched
External button – Pattern end will
stop after stitching the stitch
pattern to the left of the cursor
· to save, touch store
· store will blink once to indicate it is
saving
Scroll memory
· scroll arrows are to the right and
left of the memory bar
· touch to view the programmed
contents either forward or
backward
· to close the memory, press the
external memory button
· if the stitch combination has not
been saved, a message screen will
appear asking if you would like to
save it
Programming stitches by number
Stitches by number
· open memory
· touch function 0–9
· numbers appear on the screen
· the memory bar remains visible
· touch numbers to select stitch
· the number selected appears above
the other numbers
Confirm and continue programming
· touch OK to confirm
· the stitch selected appears in the
memory bar
· touch store to save in memory
· select the next stitch by pressing
the appropriate number and
proceed as above
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Correct
· touch delete if you make a mistake
· the cursor moves to the left and
deletes the number
· select new number
BA_165_engl
40
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 40
Memory
Back to stitch screen
· touch esc
· the screen reverts to the stitch
screen which includes the selected
stitch
· the selected stitch is activated
(highlighted)
Editing memory contents
Stitches with functions
· stitches can be modified after being
programmed into memory
· program the first two stitches
normally
· touch edit
· all available functions appear in the
top right section of the screen
· the last stitch in memory (left of
cursor) appears above the editing
functions
Inserting functions, e.g. mirror image
· place the cursor to the right of the
stitch to which mirror image is to be
applied
· touch edit
· select mirror image in the functions
screen
· the stitch will be shown in mirror
image
· the same procedure for insertion
applies to all functions
· touch edit to close
Visible functions (in memory bar)
· the securing function appears as a
function in the memory bar
· delete unwanted functions from the
memory bar before continuing with
programming
· touch edit to close functions
Memory functions
The following functions become
available in the center of the screen
when the edit function of the
memory feature is selected. All
functions on the toolbar (except del)
Motor Speed
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
will become inactive when the edit
function is selected and will
reactivate when the edit function is
closed. For more information on
these functions, see pages 27.
Long Stitch
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 41
Memory
Securing Function
Horizontal Mirror
Image
Memory Sub-division
Vertical
Mirror Image
Pattern Extend
Letter Size
41
Balance
View memory contents
View memory contents
· touch check
· the memory contents appear in a
window
· the cursor is visible
· the cursor can be moved into
position with the arrows for editing
applications
· after viewing, touch esc
Corrections in memory
Rule:
All changes and corrections are always made to the left of the cursor.
Deleting the last programmed
stitch/letter
· touch del
· the last stitch entered (left of
cursor) is deleted
Deleting a stitch/letter within a
memory
· place the cursor to the right of the
stitch to be deleted
· touch del
· the stitch to the left of the cursor is
deleted
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· the window closes and the memory
bar appears
· the cursor is in exactly the same
place as it was in the view window
BA_165_engl
42
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 42
Memory
Inserting a stitch in memory
· place cursor where the stitch is to
be inserted
· select stitch/letter
· the new stitch is inserted to the left
of the cursor
Saving memory contents/leave memory
Save and leave memory
· touch store
· the contents are saved
· the memory can be opened and
viewed at any time
· touch external mem button
Turning off machine without saving
· memory contents will be lost if the
machine is turned off without
touching store
Open individual memory
Returning to a previously
programmed memory bank
· open memory by pressing the
external mem button
· touch mem 1 on the functions
toolbar
Note: if the machine has been
turned off since the last time the
memory feature was used, mem 1
will show on the screen when the
memory is activated. If the machine
has not been turned off, the last
memory bank opened will show.
· an overview of the memory banks
appear on the screen
· the open memory bank is
highlighted (dark gray)
· the occupied memory banks are
displayed in light gray
Memory capacity
Open mem screen
· open memory by pressing the
external mem button
· touch mem on the functions toolbar
· the memory bank screen appears
· the total capacity used by stored
stitch patterns is shown in % in the
top row
· total capacity of all memory banks
together is 1023 stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· empty memory banks are shown in
white
· memory banks can be scrolled if
more than 15 are occupied (can be
up to 255 memory banks)
· select an occupied memory bank
· the contents are shown in the
memory
· touch esc to return to the previous
screen
· the contents of the selected
memory remain active
· you can sew, insert, or correct these
contents
Note: Contents of memory should be
sewn from a stitch screen, not the
memory storage screen.
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 43
Memory
43
Memory sub-division
Note: Fabric should be repositioned
as needed to stitch each section of
the memory.
Memory sub-division
· the contents of a memory can be
sub-divided as desired, e.g. name,
street, town, etc. by using the edit
feature
· program the name
· program the street
· touch edit
· place cursor after the last letter of
the name
· select Memory Sub-division
· the sub-divider is inserted to the
left of the cursor
· the characters belong to the one
memory (e.g. mem 4) but are totally
independent of one another so they
can be sub-divided as desired
Sewing
· activate Pattern begin and sew
Note: when Pattern begin is
activated, the cursor will move to
the right of the first letter in that
memory bank. Stitching will start
with the letter to the left of the
cursor
· the machine only sews the contents
of that particular sub-division
· to sew the next section, place the
cursor in anywhere in that section
· begin sewing; when the foot
control is pressed, the cursor will
go to the beginning of the stitch
combination for sewing the
complete grouping
Note: if the contents of the memory
have been changed using the edit
function (page 40–41), the Pattern
begin function must be selected to
start the stitching at the
beginning of the combination.
· if a section is to be sewn only once,
touch Pattern End 1 on the function
toolbar
Delete memory
· open memory (press external
button)
· touch mem on the functions
toolbar
· an overview of the memories
appears
· touch memory of choice
(e.g. mem 3)
· touch del
· a message will appear asking if you
really want to delete the contents
of the memory
· touch yes
· the memory contents are deleted
· touch esc to return to the previous
screen
Deleting memory
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
44
Quilt stitches
9:34 Uhr
Seite 44
Quilt stitches
Menu selection: Quilt stitches
· press the external “Quilt Stitches”
button
· menu appears
· touch symbol
· quilt stitches appear
Decorative quilt stitches
Quilt stitches
· selection of various stitches which
are particularly suitable for quilting,
piecing, applique, and crazy
patchwork:
· 326 Short Straight Stitch
· 327 Stippling Stitch
· 328 Hand-look Quilting Stitch
· 329 Blanket Stitch
· 330 Heavy Blanket Stitch
· 331 Blindstitch
· 332 Feather Stitch
· 333–338, 351 Feather Stitch Variations
· 346–350 Quilting Stitch Variations
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· touch to select desired stitch
· the stitch is activated
· all normal information and
functions are visible on the
screen
· stitch length and width can be
adjusted as desired
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 45
Balance
45
Balance
All stitches are checked and fully
adjusted before the machine leaves
the factory.
stitch formation can be adjusted
where necessary to suit the fabric.
There are 50 vertical steps.
Different fabrics, threads, stabilizers,
and interfacings can affect
programmed stitches so that
sometimes they might not close or
they might overlap, i.e. they are too
wide or too narrow.
Open Balance
· touch function b
· if the function is not visible on
screen, touch the arrow in the
function toolbar to scroll through
all the available functions
These effects can be corrected with
the electronic balance so that the
Balance for practical and decorative stitches
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
When sewing soft fabrics such as
jersey or tricot, the fabric tends to
stretch under the presser foot which
also stretches the stitch being sewn.
For example, the Honeycomb stitch
opens up and is too long. Thicker
fabrics might cause the stitch to
overlap, making it too short.
Correcting with balance is very
simple.
Balance
· select any stitch
· touch b to activate balance; balance
screen appears
· when adjusting practical stitches, a
graphic of the honeycomb stitch
appears in the center of the screen
(this is used as the example for all
practical stitches)
· when adjusting decorative stitches,
a graphic of the satin stitched oval
appears in the center of the screen
(this is used as the example for all
decorative stitches)
· two malformations are displayed on
either side of the stitch – left too
short and right too long
· the arrows at the bottom of the
screen show in which direction the
stitch must be corrected
Corrections
Stitch too long:
· touch the arrow shown on the right
(approximately 3)
· the number of steps activated will
be shown directly above the arrow
· the stitch will be shortened
· the change is not shown on screen
· 2–5 steps are normally sufficient to
correct the stitch (max. 50 steps)
· sew a test and make additional
corrections if needed
Stitch too short:
· proceed as above, using the arrow
on the left
· sew a test and make additional
corrections if needed
Returning to stitch screen
· after all corrections are made,
touch OK to confirm the changes
and return to the stitch screen
· touching reset will return the stitch
to the same condition as when the
balance function was opened
· before selecting a new stitch, press
the external clr button to close
balance, otherwise it will affect all
subsequent stitches
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
46
Help Program
9:34 Uhr
Seite 46
Help
The Help program provides on-screen
explanations about individual stitches
and all functions, eliminating the
need to refer regularly to the
instruction manual. The information
shown corresponds to information in
the instruction manual, but is quicker
and easier to find electronically.
No matter which screen is displayed,
the help feature for stitches and
functions can be opened. Touch esc
to return to the previous screen.
Opening help
· press the external ?-button
· select the desired stitch or function
· a clock on the screen shows that
the computer is searching for the
desired information
Help screen/Stitches
· the screen offers the following
information:
· name of the stitch
· suitable fabrics
· brief listing of main applications
Help screen/Functions
· the screen offers the following
information:
· name of the function
· explanation
· brief listing of main applications
Back to previous screen
· touch esc
· Help is closed
· the previous screen appears
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Note:
The Help program can be opened at
any time without affecting the work
at hand.
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 47
Tutorial/Creative Consultant
47
Tutorial
In computer language, tutorial means
self-help. The tutorial provides
concentrated on-screen information
about various aspects of the
machine.
External TC button
· press the external TC button
Menu
· the following menu appears:
· Tutorial
· Creative Consultant
· touch Tutorial
Subjects
· the Tutorial sub-menu appears:
· Beginning to Sew
· FHS system
· Help
· Tips and Tricks
· CPS
· Embroidery module
· Embroidery Software
· touch to select the desired subject
· touch OK to confirm
· to change subjects, touch esc to
return to menu
Information
· a clock on the screen shows that
the computer is searching for the
desired information
· information about the subject of
your choice appears on the screen
· touch esc to close the screen and
return to the menu
Creative Consultant
The Creative Consultant provides
information and help for a variety of
sewing needs.
After entering the type of fabric
and technique you wish to use,
the Creative Consultant provides
suggestions regarding needles,
presser feet, interfacings, special
External TC button
· press the external TC button
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
settings, etc. The suggested presser
feet are not necessarily standard with
the machine but may be special
accessories which can be obtained
from your BERNINA dealer.
BA_165_engl
48
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 48
Tutorial/Creative Consultant
Menu
· the following menu appears:
· Tutorial
· Creative Consultant
· touch Creative Consultant
Fabric menu
· 3 columns of fabric types are
displayed
· light-weight fabrics
· medium-weight fabrics
· heavy-weight fabrics
· the most commonly used fabrics are
listed in the three columns
· if the fabric you wish to use is not
listed, select a similar type of fabric
· use the arrows to scroll up and
down for all choices
· touch to select the desired fabric
· touch OK
Techniques menu
· several common sewing techniques
appear on-screen:
· Seaming
· Overcasting
· Topstitching
· Buttonhole
· Zipper
· Decorative work (decorative
stitches)
· Machine quilting
· Freemotion machine quilting
· Appliqué
· touch to select the desired
technique
· if the technique you want to use is
not listed, select a similar technique
· touch OK to confirm and move to
the information screen
Information, special suggestions,
thread tension
· the screen displays settings and
suggestions for the type of fabric
and technique you have chosen:
· Presser foot number(s)
· Needle size and type
· Feed dog position
· Thread tension
· Presser foot pressure
· Stabilizer needed
· Special suggestion
· there may be several suggestions
for the presser foot and needle type
· some presser feet suggested may
be special accessories which are
particularly suitable for the chosen
technique (they may not be
standard accessories, but can be
purchased separately)
· select the presser foot and needle
according to your particular wishes
and preferences
· a stabilizer will be suggested if it is
required to suit the technique and
fabric
· provides a reminder to use
buttonhole cord (gimp) if necessary
to reinforce a buttonhole
Back to selected stitch
· touch OK to confirm
· the machine will automatically go
to the appropriate practical stitch
screen with the correct stitch
automatically selected
· if decorative work was selected, the
machine will go to the first screen
of decorative stitches with stitch
101selected
· sewing can begin immediately
· the suggested stitch can be
changed at any time
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 49
Smart Function
49
Smart Function
Sometimes you have to interrupt a
task at hand to complete another
piece of sewing which must be done
before you can carry on any further.
The Smart function was designed
specifically for the purpose of
“remembering” the machine’s
current settings so that you can
return to them later.
Application
· you have created and stored
something in memory
· you have tested or completed some
of the work
· you plan to finish at a later time
Saving the screen with the Smart
Function
· press the external Smart button
· the screen, complete with all the
settings (stitch, functions, memory
etc.) is saved
Second Task
· switch to any appropriate stitch
menu for another task
· complete this task
Smart Function – back to screen
· press the external Smart button
· the original screen appears
· all settings are exactly as you left
them and you can carry on with
your original task
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
The screen in which you are working
with all the settings you made can be
saved and easily re-opened.
Saved settings in the Smart Function
are lost when the machine is turned
off.
BA_165_engl
50
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 50
Setup-Program
Setup Program
The Setup program allows you to
personalize the screen to suit your
own requirements and preferences.
All changes made in the Setup
program will be saved, even when
the machine is turned off.
You can change basic settings
permanently and program the F
(Favorite function) button on the
head frame (above the needle).
There are numerous possibilities –
check the headings and decide what
you want to do.
The machine can be reset and
returned to the factory settings at
any time.
Setup
· press the external Setup button
· the menu appears
· you can alter any of the features
listed
· the original settings can be reset at
any time
Menu
· the menu lists all those features
which you can alter to suit your
requirements:
· Personal Program
· Functions
· Stitch length/width/needle
position
· Beeper
· Motor speed
· Start screen
· Return to basic settings
· Sewing light
· Service
· Screen Contrast
· personal settings remain saved even
when the machine is turned off
· the machine can be reset to its
original settings or reprogrammed
with desired settings at any time
The functions at the right are found
in the set-up program of the artista
sewing machine. They are accessed
by pressing the external set-up
button on the front of the machine
and then touching Functions on the
screen. These functions are used
when personalizing the screen to
your requirements and preferences.
Functions in Setup
Personal program
· touch Personal
program
· your Personal
program is activated
· this function can be
programmed in the
Setup program
Application:
· move this function
to the toolbar for a
fast way to access
your Personal
program
Back to basic settings
· touch reset
· all changes in the
Setup program are
returned to basic
settings
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Changing the screen
· touch arrow
· removes functions
from the Setup
program
Insert functions in
Setup
· touch arrow
· inserts functions
into the Setup
program
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 51
Setup-Program
Personal Program
Use the Personal program to design a
screen with the stitches you use most
often. Whether it is made up of
stitches for a certain type of sewing,
such as heirloom or garment, or just
your favorite decorative stitches, this
screen will make it easy and quick to
sew any project.
Setup
· press the external Setup button
· menu appears
· touch Personal Program
· Personal Program screen appears
Personal program
(programming first stitch)
· straight stitch always appears as the
first stitch
· personal selections can now be
entered in the “empty” screen
Inserting stitches
· press the Practical stitches external
button
· select Honeycomb stitch (stitch 8)
Personal screen
· the screen changes to the Personal
Program
· Honeycomb stitch appears
· touch store to save the stitch in
your personal program
· when a new stitch is programmed,
it will be inserted automatically
after the last stitch
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
When inserting stitches into the
Personal program, variations
(different stitch widths, stitch
lengths, and needle positions)
of all stitches may be entered
into the Personal program.
Alphabets cannot be stored in the
Personal program.
51
BA_165_engl
52
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 52
Setup-Program
Inserting the second stitch
· press the external Buttonhole
button
· touch the round buttonhole
(stitch 54)
Personal screen
· screen changes to personal
program
· the round buttonhole appears on
the screen
· touch store to save the buttonhole
in your personal program
· continue programming in this
manner until all desired stitches
are selected
Personal program (additional stitches)
· the top row of five spaces is
occupied
· the 6th stitch appears in the next
row
· you can program upto 60 stitches in
the personal program
· if more than 15 are programmed,
the arrows can be used to scroll the
screen in the standard program
Save and close
· touch OK
· screen closes and Setup menu
appears
· touch esc to close
· returns to the last stitch screen
opened with the last selection still
highlighted
Personal program function
· to open your personal program, the
Personal Program function must be
inserted in the function toolbar (see
pages 53–55)
Favorite function
· for even easier access, your
personal program can be
programmed into the Favorite
function button located on the
frame of the machine above
the needle (see page 54)
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 53
Setup-Program
Deleting stitches from the Personal Program
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· select personal program
Personal screen
· personal screen appears
· select stitch to be deleted
(will be highlighted)
Delete the stitch
· press the external clr button
Stitch deleted
· the stitch is deleted
· all remaining stitches move back
one space
· touch store to save the changes
Close
· touch OK
· the screen closes
· Setup menu appears
Programming functions
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button
· menu appears
· touch Functions
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
53
BA_165_engl
54
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 54
Setup-Program
Functions screen
· all functions available appear on
the screen
· the bottom two rows of functions
are the same as those that are
active in the practical stitch screen
(includes functions that may be
hidden on the stitch screen)
· these functions can be used in any
screen
· all functions in the lower rows are
active
· the upper two rows of functions
correspond to the lower functions
· the arrows in the center row are
used to move functions
Removing functions
· select Motor Speed in the lower
two rows
· touch the up arrow
· the function disappears from the
lower rows
· the function has now been
transferred to the upper rows and
will no longer appear on individual
screens, such as the practical stitch
screen
· the function is highlighted in the
upper rows and has been
deactivated (removed) from the
lower ones
· move and deactivate other
functions in the same way
Insert function
· a removed function can be
reinstated at any time
· select Motor Speed in the upper
rows
· touch the down arrow
· the function is moved to the first
position in the function toolbar in
the lower rows
· all other functions move one space
to the right
Insert new function between two
existing functions
· a new function can be inserted
between two existing functions
· select a function from the upper
rows
· touch the position in the bottom
rows where you want to insert the
function
Program F (Favorite Function) button
· select any function (including the
Personal Program) from the top two
rows
· press the external F button (above
the needle)
· press the down arrow
· the F button is now programmed
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· touch the down arrow
· the function will be transferred to
the selected position
· the replaced function (the one you
selected) and all others will move
one space to the right
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 55
Setup-Program
55
· the programmed function is
displayed on the screen to the right
of the needle stop position symbol
· it can be reprogrammed in the same
manner as often as you like
Return all functions to basic settings
· touch reset
· all functions will be returned to
their original positions except the
Favorite function button on the
head frame
· to reprogram the Favorite function
button, follow the same steps
· the new function will replace the
old
Save changes and close
· touch OK
· changes are saved
· screen closes
· Setup screen appears
Changing basic settings for stitch width, stitch length
and needle positions
Open Setup
· select stitch for which you want to
alter the width, length, and/or
needle position
· press the external Setup button
· menu appears
· select stitch length, stitch width,
needle position
Changing the settings
· the stitch width, length and needle
position screen appears
· alter the stitch width and length
settings using the external controls
· alter the needle position with the
external buttons
· touch OK to save
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· to return to basic settings, touch
reset
· touch esc to close Setup and return
to the last selected stitch screen
BA_165_engl
56
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 56
Setup-Program
Beeper
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· touch Beeper
· beeper menu appears
Audio signals
· audio signals can be applied to the
following:
· stitches
· functions
· feed-dog raised/lowered
(for embroidery)
· upper thread control
· position of presser foot
(for embroidery)
· bobbin winder
· embroidery end
· audio signals can be turned on and
off
· the number of repeats can be
selected
· the number of beeps can be set at
1, 2, or 3
Adding a signal
· select desired item from the menu
· touch on
· touch the number pad until the
number of beeps you want
(1, 2, or 3) is highlighted
Deleting a signal
· select desired item from the menu
· touch off
· the audio signal is turned off for
this feature
Save and close
· touch OK
· changes are saved
· screen closes
· Setup screen appears
Changing the motor speed
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· touch Motor Speed
· menu appears
Change the maximum motor speed
· touch the arrows to alter the
maximum sewing speed (880
stitches/minute is the basic setting)
· a reduction or increase in the motor
speed is reflected in this number
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· each touch of an arrow increases or
decreases the number of stitches
per minute by 10
· any change of the maximum speed
affects all 4 speeds ( 1/ 4, 1/ 2, 3/ 4, 4/ 4) =
slower or faster at all four levels
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 57
Setup-Program
Save and close
· touch OK to confirm the change
· touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
· touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Back to basic settings
· follow the directions above to
enter the motor speed menu
· touch reset to revert to factory
settings
Start screen on and off
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button
· menu appears
· touch Start Screen
165
Turn start screen off
· start screen appears
· the start screen can be turned on
or off
· touch off
· the start screen will not appear
next time the machine is turned on
· the practical stitch menu will
appear immediately when the
machine is turned on
Turn start screen on
· touch on
· the start screen will appear every
time the machine is turned on,
followed automatically by the
practical stitch menu
Save and close
· touch OK to confirm the change
· touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
· touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Return to basic settings
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· touch Return to Basic Settings
· a message will appear asking you
to confirm that you want to return
the machine to the basic settings
· touch yes; the Setup screen
reappears
· a clock shows on the screen
indicatig that all changes in Setup
are being reversed
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· touch no; the Setup screen
reappears
· all existing changes to Setup
remain in effect
57
BA_165_engl
58
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 58
Setup-Program
· a message will appear switch off
and on your machine
· the factory settings are restored
Sewing light
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· select Sewing Light
Switch light on/off
· touch on
· light will be on continuously when
machine is turned on
· touch off
· light will not come on at all
Save and close
· touch OK to confirm the change
· touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
· touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Service
The service function of the Setup
program gives information about
the version of software in the artista
and lets you make calibration adjust-
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
ments to the screen and hoop of
the embroidery module (special
accessory).
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 59
Setup-Program
59
Version Information
The version screen shows information
about the version of software loaded
into the sewing machine and embroidery module (special accessory). This
information is helpful if you are
asking questions of the dealer or if
you plan to upgrade the software.
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· touch service
Service Screen
· service screen appears
· select version
V 3.02
V 3.02
Version information
· version screen appears
· shows the version of software
loaded into the artista sewing
machine
· shows the version of software
loaded into the embroidery module
(special accessory), if applicable
· the embroidery module must be
connected to the machine to show
the version on the screen
· the version of software in the
sewing machine and in the
embroidery module must be the
same for optimum results
· touch esc to return to the previous
screen
Calibrating the screen is important
for making on-screen selections by
touch. If the screen is not calibrated,
you may touch one selection and the
machine will read one next to it. For
precision touch selection, the screen
may be calibrated.
Note: The screen is calibrated at
the factory, but shipping and transporting may affect it.
The screen only needs to be calibrated if there is a problem with
precision touching.
Screen Calibration
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· touch Service
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
60
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 60
Setup-Program
Service Screen
· service screen appears
· select screen
· select this screen if the on-screen
buttons do not react properly when
selected (touched)
Calibration
· screen calibration screen appears
· press each black point in the center,
one after the other
· it is not important which point is
selected first
· the machine will beep when the
dots are touched to let you know
contact was made
· will automatically go back to the
previous screen
· touch esc to return to the setup
screen
· touch esc to return to last selected
stitch screen
Important Note: When calibrating
the screen, take care to touch the
black dots only. If the screen is
miscalibrated by touching any area
other than the black dots, it may
require a technical adjustment by
an authorized technician.
Embroidery hoop adjustment
This adjustment calibrates the
needle to the center of the embroidery hoop and is only needed the
first time the embroidery module
(special accessory) is being used. The
hoop adjustment can only be activated if the Embroidery Module is
attached
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button
· menu appears
· touch service
Service Screen
· service screen appears
· select Adjustment of hoop
Hoop adjustment
· hoop adjustment screen appears
· connect the embroidery module to
the machine
· attach the large hoop to the
embroidery module
· insert the embroidery template into
the hoop
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
· touch check – the machine reads
the hoop position; the needle
should be positioned exactly over
the center point of the template
· if it is not, adjust with the arrows
· it is only necessary to adjust the
hoop once – the same setting
changes will apply to all the hoops
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 61
Setup-Program
Save and close
· Touch OK – close the screen
· Touch esc – close Setup
· Touch check in Layout 1 – close
embroidery hoop adjustment
Screen contrast
The contrast of the screen can be
adjusted for easier viewing.
Setup menu
· press the external Setup button,
menu appears
· touch contrast (lower right of
screen)
· contrast screen appears
Adjust contrast
· two adjustments are provided
to adjust the contrast
(– = lighter, + = darker)
· touch to increase or reduce the
contrast
· the original screen is visible on the
left to control and check the
adjustments as they are being made
Save and close
· touch OK
· changes are saved
· screen closes
· Setup menu appears
Leave Setup program
Leave Setup menu
· touch esc
· Setup is closed
· changes are saved
· changes remain saved when the
machine is turned off
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
61
BA_165_engl
62
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 62
eco function/Optional accessories
eco (ecology) function
The green eco (ecology) function
button on the front of the machine
saves energy when the machine is
not in use, but you don’t want to
turn it off and lose the settings. It
can be compared to the sleep feature
on a computer.
If the eco function is activated, the
machine uses about 50% less energy.
The screen in which you are currently
working, all memory contents, and
any other functions which you have
selected remain active. The screen
goes dark and details are just visible.
Once you begin working again,
the machine will be returned to its
normal state.
Besides saving energy, the eco
function is also a child safety device.
Once the eco function is activated,
the machine is “locked” and the foot
control is inactive. The machine will
only sew after turning off the eco
function (pressing the button once),
returning it to the last active screen.
Eco function
· touch the external eco button
· energy used will be reduced
by 50%
· useful when interrupting work for
longer periods
Screen
· screen goes dark, details are just
visible
· the machine will not sew in eco
mode, it is “locked”
· all settings remain
· foot control will not operate the
machine
Return to sewing
· touch the eco button
· machine returns to normal function
· the eco function is cleared when
the machine is turned off
Optional accessories
The following pages offer information about additional accessories
and attachments available for the
artista sewing machine. These
accessories will add to the capabilities and versatility of the machine,
offering unlimited possibilities for
expressing your creativity.
Ask your Bernina dealer for more
details!
CPS Program (optional accessory)
CPS Program (Customized Pattern
Selection)
This program allows you to replace a
variety of stitches on your sewing
computer AND replace designs and
alphabets within the embroidery
module (optional accessory).
The CPS program allows you to
personalize your sewing machine to
suit your preferences and sewing
requirements. And you can do it as
often as you want.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Ask your BERNINA dealer for further
details!
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 63
Optional accessories
63
Embroidery module (optional accessory)
Embroidery module (optional
accessory)
The embroidery module is a wonderful addition to your sewing machine,
offering you unlimited possibilities to
use your imagination and creativity
to their full extent. It provides the
possibility of sewing a wonderful
array of large motifs in full color.
The module attaches to the free arm
and is connected to the right side of
the machine in the connecting socket
provided; it comes preprogrammed
with 18 assorted motifs. When
selected, they appear on the screen
and can be sewn immediately. You
can position, mirror image, enlarge
and reduce the motifs.
Connecting the embroidery module
· turn the sewing machine off
· remove the accessory box or sewing
table
· position the module on the back of
the free arm
· push the engaging lugs into the
base plate of the machine (back
right)
· insert the plug in the connection on
the right side of the machine
(embroidery module symbol)
· turn sewing machine on
Designs
· embroidery menu appears
· touch the embroidery module
symbol to access the
preprogrammed designs
· touch the teddy bear symbol to
access designs from cards (extra
accessories – see page 64)
· the position, size, and density of
the motifs can be altered
· designs can mirror imaged, as well
as rotated
· a detailed instruction manual is
supplied with the embroidery
module.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Additional embroidery motifs,
covering a wide range of subjects are
available on cards. Just insert a card
into the embroidery module, select,
and sew!
A detailed instruction manual is
supplied with the embroidery
module.
BA_165_engl
64
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 64
Optional accessories
Embroidery cards (optional accessory)
Preprogrammed embroidery design
cards covering a wide range of
subjects can be used in conjunction
with the embroidery module.
Each card is devoted to one particular
theme. New cards are introduced on
a regular basis so that you can build
up a diverse library of beautiful
motifs, each relating to a specific
subject or theme.
The cards are inserted into the
embroidery module. You can then
view the motifs on the screen of your
sewing machine.
Inserting the card
· turn the sewing machine off
· insert the card into the slot in the
module
Embroidery card menu
· the embroidery menu appears
· touch the teddy bear symbol
Embroidery motifs on the card
· the first motif screen appears
· each motif is numbered
· scroll to view further motifs
· select and sew the same as for
stitches programmed on the
embroidery module
artista Embroidery Software (optional accessory)
BERNINA Software comes in a variety
of levels enabling you to choose the
software right for you. All are
Windows based, easy to learn and
fun to use.
Artlink comes with 24 designs,
including many licensed designs. This
Software has the ability to rotate, rescale, mirror image and preview designs before they are sewn.
Editor provides a powerful base for
the designer software. It comes with
211 designs and 42 alphabets giving
you the creative freedom to edit existing designs and personalize them.
Add Auto-Designer for automatic
digitizing capabilities with a single
click beginning with your own artwork. Move to the Designer level to
have manual digitizing tools, plus the
ability to use your Windows True Type
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
fonts in your embroideries. Add
Cross-Stitch at any level to do cross
stitch embroidery by machine. Add
PhotoSnap to be able to stitch a picture at the Auto-Designer level and
on. Choose one software package for
your embroidery needs or have it all
with DesignerPlus.
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 65
Optional accessories/Needle, thread, fabric feed
Connection cable
· turn the machine off before
attaching the cable
· insert the cable into the appropriate
socket on the right side of the
machine (PC symbol)
· turn the machine on
65
Detailed instruction manuals are
supplied with the artista software
programs.
Important facts about sewing machine needles
Sewing machine, needle and thread
Your Bernina uses needle system 130/705H.
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70–120. The
finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows
you which needle is suitable for which threads. The
needle size select must correspond to the thread size.
Needle/
thread table
70
80
90
100
Darning thread
Embroidery
thread
Mercerized
cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Thick threads,
synthetic merc.
thread
Buttonhole thread
for decorative
seams (cordonnet)
Correct needle/thread
combination
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on
the needle.
Unsatisfactory
needle/thread combination
If the needle is too fine the
groove on the front cannot
accommodate the thread
and faulty stitching occurs.
Needle and fabric /
Condition of needle
The needle must be in
perfect condition.
Problems can occur with
damaged needles.
bent needle
blunt needle
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
burred needle
110–120
BA_165_engl
66
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 66
Needle, thread, fabric feed
Important facts about sewing machine needles
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are
available at your BERNINA dealer.
Needle table
Description
Needle point
Suitable for
Standard
needle
130/705H
Normal point,
slightly rounded
Universal needle for woven,
synthetic and natural fibers, e.g.
linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy,
wool, satin, decorative stitching,
embroidery
Special
needles
130/70H-SES
Fine ball point
Fine knits, especially for synthetic
fibers
130/705H-SUK Medium
ball point
Heavier knits in synthetic or natural
fibers
130/705H-S
Medium
ball point,
stretch
Special needle for delicate of
difficult stretch fabrics
Jeans needles
130/705H-J
Very fine point
Overalls, heavy linen, denim, canvas. Pierces dense fabrics easily
Leather
needle
130/705
H-LR+H-LL
Cutting point
Natural and
synthetic leather, plastic, coated
and waxed fabric
Double needle 130/705 H/TWI Needle distance
1.6, 2.0, 2.5,
3.0, 4.0
Visible hems in stretch fabrics,
pintucks, decorative sewing
Triple needle
130/705 H/TRI
Needle distance
2.5, 3.0
Decorative sewing
Hemstitch
needle
130/705H/HE
wide needle
Hemstitching in fine fabrics
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 67
Needle, thread, fabric feed
67
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch
length, the steps are also short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing
speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch length.
Important
Let the fabric feed evenly!
Pulling or pushing will
result in gaps.
Holding back will result in
knots.
Height compensation tool
1
The feed-dog can work
normally when the foot is
level.
If the foot is at an angle,
e.g. when sewing over
thick to thin or vice-versa,
the feed-dog can not grip
and feed the fabric and
the work sticks.
To solve this problem,
place one, two or three
compensating plates as
required behind the needle
under the presser foot.
When sewing corners only
a small section of the
fabric is actually on the
feed-dog so that it cannot
grip the fabric well.
Correct this by placing one
or more compensating
plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
Feed-dog and sewing corners
The gap between the two
rows of teeth is relatively
large due to the width of
the stitch plate hole.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
To correct the height in
front of the foot, place
one or more plates to the
right of the foot next to
the needle. Sew until the
foot is level again and
remove the plates.
BA_165_engl
68
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 68
Cleaning and Maintenance
Cleaning
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it
should be brought to a warm room about
1 hour before use.
Cleaning
Periodically remove thread fluff and
remnants which collect under the stitch
plate.
· turn power switch to 0
· remove presser foot and needle
· open the free-arm cover
· press the stitch plate down back right
· lift and remove it
· clean the area with the brush
· replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the screen
· wipe with a damp cloth
Cleaning the hook
· power switch to 0
· remove the bobbin case
· press the lower release lever to the left
· fold down the semi-spherical locking
strap with black hook race cover
· remove the hook
· clean the hook using the brush provided
or a cotton swab. The use of any sharp
instrument could damage the hook.
· insert the hook, turning the handwheel
if necessary until the hook driver is on
the left
· close the black hook race cover and
locking strap, the pawl must engage
· check by turning the handwheel
· insert the bobbin case
Lubricating
For machines with the
metal CB-hook system,
lightly oil (1-2 drops) the
hook race. After replacing
the bobbin case and bobbin, sew off the machine
on scrap fabric to prevent
oil from getting on your
work. Machine should be
oiled each time it is cleaned.
Important!
Never use oil, alcohol or
solvents of any kind on any
part of the machine!
Cleaning the machine
· wipe with a damp cloth
· if really soiled, wipe with a solution of
water and a few drops of soap liquid
Replacing the Sewing Light
Contrary to an ordinary bulb, the CFL sewing light has a
better illumination and a longer life.
Caution:
Please note that a defective CFL sewing light must ONLY
be replaced by an authorized technician. The sewing
computer must be brought to an
authorized BERNINA dealer!
Please refer to the safety instructions!
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 69
Troubleshooting
69
Trouble shooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy
faults by checking the following.
Check whether:
· the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
· the needle is inserted as far up as possible with the flat
side to the back
· the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread
table
· the machine is clean – brush out any thread fluff
· the hook race is clean
· any threads are trapped between the tension discs or
under the bobbin case spring
Upper thread breaks
Faulty stitching
· the upper thread tension is too tight.
· the needle is not designed to be used with the selected
thread. Check the chart on page 65–66 and the
Creative Consultant.
· the needle has been inserted incorrectly. The flat side
of the shank must be to the back.
· the needle is bent or blunt.
· poor quality, knotted or dried out thread has been
used.
· use the correct spool disc.
· stitch plate or hook tip damaged. Take your machine to
your BERNINA dealer.
· remnants of thread between the tension discs.
· remnants of thread under the bobbin case spring.
· the thread is still threaded in the finger of the bobbin
case.
· incorrect threading. Check upper and lower threads.
· use the correct spool disc.
Machine fails to run or runs slowly
·
·
·
·
plug not fully inserted.
power switch in off (0) position.
machine has been standing in a cold room.
bobbin winder still switched on.
Lower thread breaks
· the lower thread tension is too tight.
· the bobbin is jamming in the bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
· the hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the
needle. This must be polished by a Bernina Certified
Technician.
· the needle is blunt or bent.
Machine sews in reverse
reverse sewing function is still activated.
Defective sewing light
Please note that it is forbidden to change the new CFLsewing light by a unauthorized person. For Models with
this new CFL-sewing light, the light can ONLY be replaced by an authorized Bernina Dealer.
Skipped stitches
· wrong needles used. Use only 130/705H system.
· the needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted.
Push right to the top when inserting.
· the needle point does not suit the fabric being sewn.
If necessary use a ball point for knitted fabrics and
cutting point for hard leather.
Needle breaks
· needle clamp screw loose.
· fabric taken out forwards instead of behind the presser
foot.
· when sewing over thick area, the fabric was pushed
with the needle still in the fabric.
· poor quality thread, unevenly wound or knotted.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
70
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 70
Glossary of terms
Glossary of terms
check
· to preview the contents of a memory bank
clr (clear)
· remove or restore settings, back to basic settings
cursor
· on-screen positioning marker (vertical line)
· used in memory for marking deletions, insertions, etc.
customized
· customer-oriented, individualized, personalized
Delete
· Delete/clear the previous command
edit
· alter, modify
esc (escape)
· close screen/program, return to previous or start screen
help
· an integrated program providing brief information and help concerning functions and
specific stitches
memory
· sewing machine program to store stitches and combinations of stitches, letters and
numbers for recall at any time
menu
· summary of program contents, e.g. stitches, functions from which selections can be
made
ok
· to confirm a task or selection before continuing
outline
· stitches with outer contours which are not filled in
pattern
· motif, stitch
PC
· Personal Computer
PC Embroidery Software
· User friendly program designed especially for our customers
· PC program for use in conjunction with our embroidery module to edit, mirror image
and resize existing motifs. You can also use it to create and convert your own designs
into beautiful embroidery.
scroll
· to move the screen up or down to view
Setup
· sequences and settings which can be altered and adapted to suit your personal
preferences
smart
· program which saves the stitch and all settings in use during interruptions.
Toggle between two stitches.
software
· computer programs
store
· save in memory for recall at any time
toolbar
· a term used for on-screen groups, e.g. functions
touch screen
· screen which operates the machine by touch
tutorial
· self-help program for learning about various machine features
update
· load new software onto machine
upgrade
· load new software onto machine
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
BA_165_engl
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 71
Index
71
Index
A
E
Accessory box
6
Alphabets/numbers
37–38
·alter size
37
·programming
38
Alphabet programming functions 28
eco function
Editing functions
·balance
·letter size
·long stitch
·mirror image
·motor speed
·pattern extend
·securing end of stitch
·sub-division
Embroidery cards
Embroidery module
External stitch buttons
·alphabet button
·buttonhole button
·decorative stitch button
·external connections
·practical stitch button
·quilt stitches button
·Setup button
External function buttons
·clr button
·eco button
·F (Favorite Function) button
·Help
·mem button
·needle position
·Needle stop adjustment
·Pattern end
·Quick reverse button
·Setup button
·Smart button
·TC button
Eyelet program
B
Balance
45
Bobbin – winding, inserting
8
Bringing up the lower thread
10
Bulb, replacing
68
Buttonhole program functions
28
·button measurement
28
·direct length entry
28
·manual buttonhole
28
·stitch counter buttonhole
28
Buttonholes
29–37
·auto round and keyhole
31
·auto standard and stretch
30
·auto with direct length entry
31
·buttonhole corrections
33
·long-term memory
34
·manual 4–6 step buttonholes 34–35
·on-screen button measure
32
·stitch counter buttonhole
32–33
·straight stitch buttonholes
36
Buttonholes, applications
17
Button sew-on program
36
C
Carrying case
Cleaning, maintenance
Contents
CPS program
Creative Consultant
·Fabric menu
·Techniques menu
6
68
3
62
47–48
48
48
D
Details of the machine
4, 5
G
62
27
27
27
27
27
27
27
27
27
64
63
20–21
21
21
21
21
20
21
21
22–23
22
22
23
22
22
22
22
23
22
22
22
22
37
General functions
·esc
·OK
·Scroll down
·Scroll up
Glossary of terms
H
23
23
23
23
23
70
Help program
46
L
Letters/numbers
37–38
M
Maintenance, cleaning
68
Memory
38–43
·Corrections in memory
41
·Deleting memory
43
·Functions
40–41
·Open memory
38
·Open individual memory
42
·Memory capacity
42
·Programming stitches
39
·Programming stitches by number 39
·Programming with functions
40
·Save/leave memory
42
·Sub-division
43
·View memory contents
41
Messages, on-screen
29
N
F
F (Favorite function) button
Fabric feed, thread, needle
Feed dogs and fabric feed
Feed dogs
FHS Free Hand System
Foot control
Functions, memory
·check
·delete
·edit memory
·select memory
·store
·scroll left
·scroll right
Functions in Setup
Functions, on-screen selection
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
54
65–67
67
11
7
7
26–27
26
26
27
26
26
26
27
26, 50
19
Needle threader
Needle, changing
Needle, thread, fabric feed
Needle position, altering
Needle stop
10
9
65–67
19
19
O
Optional accessories
62–65
P
PC Embroidery Software
64-65
Power cable
7
Power switch
7
Practical stitches, applications 16–17
Presser feet
15
·Reverse pattern foot No.1
15
·Overlock Foot No. 2
15
·Buttonhole foot No.3
15
·Auto buttonhole foot No.3A
15
·Zipper foot No.4
15
·Blind stitch foot No.5
15
·Embroidery foot No.6
15
·Jeans foot No.8
15
BA_165_engl
72
16.4.2004
9:34 Uhr
Seite 72
Index
Presser feet, special
15, 63
Presser foot pressure
11
Presser foot, changing
9
Presser foot indicator
19
Programming letters/numbers
38
·Securing
·Stitch selection by number
·Vertical mirror image
Touch screen selection
Troubleshooting
Tutorial/Creative Consultant
24
25
25
18–21
69
47–48
Q
Quilt stitches
44
S
Safety instructions
Screen
Selecting on-screen functions
Setup
·Beeper
·Embroidery hoop adjustment
·F (Favorite function) button
·Functions, programming
·Functions in Setup
·Motor speed
·Needle position
·Personal program
·Return to basic settings
·Save and leave Setup
·Screen Calibration
·Screen Contrast
·Service
·Sewing light
·Start screen
·Stitch width, length
·Version Information
Sewing machine needles
Sewing table
Smart function
Standard accessories
Stitch width/length, altering
Stitch plate
Stitch selection, on-screen
Stitch selection by number
Stitch summary
·alphabets
·buttonholes
·decorative stitches
·practical stitches
·quilt stitches
Supplementary spool pin
1
18
19
50–61
56
60
54
53–55
50
56
55
51–53
57
61
59–60
61
58
58
57
55
59
65–66
7
49
6
19
11
19–20
20
13–14
14
13
13
13
14
9
T
Thread cutter
Threading upper thread
Thread, needle, fabric feed
Thread tension, altering
Touch screen functions
·Balance
·Clear All
·Continuous reverse sewing
·Double needle limitation
·Hemstitch (wing) needle
·Half pattern
·Horizontal mirror image
·Long stitch
·Motor speed
·Pattern begin
·Pattern end
·Pattern extension
·Scroll
11
10
65–67
12
24–26
25
25
25
25
26
25
24
24
24
24
24
25
25
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 1
Sewing Manual
artista 165
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 2
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 3
Contents
2–5
6
7–11
12, 13
Straight stitch, Zig-zag
Altered memory
Practical stitch seams
Sewing knits
14
Zippers
15
Long stitch function
16
Basting stitch
17
Blind hem
18, 19
20
21–28
Elastic, cord
Bartack program
Buttonholes
29
Button sew-on program
30
Eyelets
31–34
Mending/darning
35
Decorative stitches
36
Cross stitches
37–39
Quilt stitches
40
41–43
Decorative stitches combined with functions
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
44
Balance
45
Index
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
1
NA_165_englisch
2
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 4
Straight stitch
Straight stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight Stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Jeans foot No. 8 (for sewing denim)
Straight stitch
· the machine is ready to sew as soon as it is turned on
· after the welcome screen (3 seconds), the machine
automatically goes to the practical stitch screen with
the pre-selected Straight Stitch highlighted
Screen
· suggests using Reverse pattern presser foot No.1
· basic settings (length and width) for Straight Stitch
are preset at 2.25mm (length) and 0mm (width)
· basic settings as well as altered settings are always
visible on the screen
A
B
C
A straight stitch with length of
2.25 mm preset length
B straight stitch with altered
stitch length
C straight stitch with altered
needle positions
Alter the stitch length
· the stitch length can be altered while sewing
· turn the external stitch length knob to the right to lengthen
· turn the external stitch length knob to the left to shorten
Change the needle position
· push the external needle position buttons to change the needle position
so stitching can be placed exactly where it is desired
· each push of the button moves the needle one position in the direction
of the symbol
· < five positions to the left
· > five positions to the right
· total of 11 positions, including center
· excellent for edgestitching, topstitching, and making tucks
Securing with Quick Reverse
· press the quick reverse button and the machine sews in reverse
· release the button and the machine sews forward
☞
TIPS
Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric:
· e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3mm – 4mm) with
denim, shorter length(2mm–2.5mm) with batiste
Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread:
· e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3mm – 5mm) when
sewing with cordonnet thread for top stitching
Activate needle stop down
· prevents the fabric slipping when you stop to adjust it
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 5
Straight stitch
Securing stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Securing stitch No. 5
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Securing program
· for all fabrics
· secures beginning and end of seam
· reverse stitching is exactly on top of the seam,
preventing puckers
Stitch selection
· touch stitch No. 5
· quick reverse symbol will appear on-screen as a
reminder to use it when ending the seam
Screen
· suggests using reverse pattern presser foot No.1
· basic settings (length and width) for Straight Stitch
are preset at 2.5mm (length) and 0mm (width)
Beginning the seam
· machine secures the seam automatically (4 stitches
forward, 4 stitches reverse)
· machine continues straight stitching
Ending the seam
· when coming to the end of the seam, press and release
the quick reverse button above the needle
· machine will secure the seam automatically (4 stitches
forward, 4 stitches reverse)
· machine stops automatically when securing is complete
☞
TIP
Seaming
· quick and easy securing at beginning and
end of seam
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
3
NA_165_englisch
4
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 6
Straight stitch
Edge stitching
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight Stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or cordonnet (topstitching)
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Blindstitch Foot No. 5 or
Edgestitch Foot No. 10 (optional accessory)
Narrow edge stitching
5
Needle position
· left for outer edge
· right for inner edge
Presser foot
· Blindstitch foot No. 5
Outer edge
· place finished or folded edge of fabric against the
guide of the foot
· select needle position at desired distance from the edge
5
1
Hem edges
· place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) against
the guide on the foot
· select a needle position that places the stitching along
the upper edge of the folded hem
Foot 5 – use any left or far right needle position
Foot 10 – use any left or right needle position
Wide edge stitching
Needle position
· any needle position can be used for this stitching
· different needle positions will place the stitching at
various distances from the edge of the fabric
Presser foot
· reverse pattern foot No. 1
Guiding the fabric
Presser foot as a guide:
· align the edge of the presser foot with the finished or
folded edge of the fabric
Stitch plate as a guide:
· guide the folded edge along the markings on the
stitch plate for stitching 1cm–3cm from the edge
Quilting/Seam guide as a guide:
· insert the quilting/seam guide bar into the hole on the
back of the presser foot shank
· adjust as desired, measuring from the needle
· tighten the screw
· guide the finished or folded edge of the fabric along
the quilting/seam guide
· to sew parallel lines, guide the quilting/seam guide bar
along a previously sewn line of stitching
1
☞
TIP
Edge stitching with quilting/seam guide
· eliminates tedious marking when sewing
parallel lines or grids
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 7
Zig-zag
5
Zig-zag stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Zig-zag No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Zig-zag applications
· for all fabric types
· for finishing raw edges
· for decorative work
Stitch selection
· touch stitch No. 2
Screen
· suggests using reverse pattern presser foot 1
· basic settings (length and width) for Zigzag Stitch
are preset at 1.5mm (length) and 3.5mm (width)
· basic settings as well as altered settings are always visible
on the screen
B
Altering the stitch width
· the stitch width can be altered while sewing
· turn the external stitch width knob to the right to
make the stitch wider
· turn the external stitch width knob to the left to
make the stitch more narrow
· move the knob in a smooth, gentle rotation for a
smooth tapering of the stitch
Satin stitch
· short stitch length setting indicated by parallel lines
· filled-in stitch used for applique, cutwork, embroidery, and
other decorative applications
☞
TIPS
Oversewing edges with Zig-zag
· if edges roll, use the Vari-overlock stitch and foot No. 2
Embroidery with satin stitch
· experiment with adjusting the stitch width for new
decorative effects
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
C
A zigzag stitch with altered
stitch length
B zigzag stitch with altered
stitch width
C fabric edges finished with
zigzag stitch
Alter the stitch length
· the stitch length can be altered while sewing
· turn the external stitch length knob to the right to lengthen
· turn the external stitch length knob to the left to shorten
· move the knob in a smooth, gentle rotation for a smooth
transition of the stitch length
Oversewing edges
· good edge finish for most types of fabric
· guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot
· needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into
the air on the other
· do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch –
the edge should lie flat and not roll
A
NA_165_englisch
6
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 8
Personal (altered) Memory
Altered Memory
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Any selected stitch
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Altered Memory
· for all stitches and fabrics
· altered stitch length and width settings are saved
automatically
· sew a stitch (e.g. zig-zag stitch)
· select and sew a second stitch (e.g. straight stitch)
· when the first stitch (zig-zag), is recalled, all altered
settings remain
· particularly useful when alternating between two
applications, such as seaming and edge finishing
· the altered memory can hold as many stitches as
needed
· the altered memory is lost when the machine is
turned off
Altering the basic settings
· select zig-zag stitch No. 2
· alter stitch width to 5mm
· alter stitch length to 1mm
· sew a line of the altered zigzag stitch
· select running stitch No. 4
· alter stitch width to 5mm
· alter stitch length to 1mm
· sew a line of the altered running stitch
Altered settings remain active
· select zig-zag stitch No. 2
· altered settings remain active
· sew a line of the altered zigzag stitch
· select running stitch No. 4
· altered settings remain active
· sew a line of the altered running stitch
Return to basic settings
· Method 1: press the external clr button
· Method 2: alter the stitch width and length manually
· Method 3: turn machine off – altered settings will not be
saved
☞
TIPS
Altering stitch width and length
· the width and length of all stitches can be adjusted
to suit the fabric and type of sewing. Very convenient
when sewing a project which may require using the
same stitches repeatedly.
Changing Stitches
· alternating between sewing seams and finishing edges
is easy with altered settings for many stitches, which
remain altered once set
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
A
B
A altered zigzag stitch changed to
altered running stitch
B changed back to altered zigzag
stitch and then changed again
to altered running stitch
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 9
Practical stitch seams
Practical stitch seams
Open seams
Seams which are pressed open
· seam allowance width as wide as desired
· seam lies flat
· seam does not stretch
Suggested stitches:
· straight, narrow zigzag, super stretch, and triple zigzag
Application:
· primarily for woven fabrics
· works for most types of sewing projects, including
clothing, home accessories, and crafts
Closed seam (overlock seams)
Seams which cannot be pressed open
· sewn and finished in one operation
· narrow seam allowances
Suggested stitches:
· vari-overlock, double overlock, and jersey
Application:
· primarily for knits and jerseys
· excellent for knit clothing, lingerie, and bed linens
Flat joining seams
Seams where the edges are overlapped and then sewn
· stitching is on the seam allowances
Suggested stitch:
· stretch overlock
Application:
· particularly good for terry cloth
· also good for beachwear, leisure wear, and lingerie
Zig-zag seam
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Zig-zag stitch No. 2
approximately 1mm
approximately 0.5mm
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Open seam applications
· stitch has more “give” than a straight stitch
· use for knits, outer wear, children’s knit clothes
· seam lies flat and is not bulky
· allows a garment to be let out
☞
TIP
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
7
NA_165_englisch
8
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 10
Practical stitch seams
Triple Straight Stitch seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Triple Straight Stitch No. 6
80–90 universal or jeans
polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Jeans foot No. 8
Open seam
· durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such
as denim and corduroy
· reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard wear
☞
TIP
For heavy layers or very densely woven fabrics
Use the height compensating tool to help foot sew
smoothly and evenly when joining seams.
Stretch/Super stretch seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Super stretch No. 11 or Stretch No. 18
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Open seam
· stretch seam for knit fabrics
· ideal for sports and leisure wear
· seam lies flat and is not bulky
☞
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch ball point needle
(130/705H-S); needle point slides between the fibers
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 11
Practical stitch seams
Vari-overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2
Closed seam
· stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and
interlock
2
Sewing
· guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
· the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of
the fabric
☞
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S); the
point slides easily between the fibers
Double overlock seam/Jersey overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Double Overlock No.10 or Jersey Overlock No. 20
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2
Closed seam
· overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits
and jerseys
2
Sewing
· guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
· the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of
the fabric
☞
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch ball point needle (130/705H-S);
the point slides easily between the fibers
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
9
NA_165_englisch
10
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 12
Practical stitch seams
Stretch overlock seam/Reinforced overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stretch Overlock No. 13 or Reinforced Overlock No. 19
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Overlock foot No. 2
Closed seam
· overlock seam in coarse or loose knits
Sewing
· sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
· the stitch should go over the edge of the fabric on the
right swing of the needle
☞
TIP
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
Flat joining seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stretch Overlock No. 13
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Flat joining seam
· fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch is placed on
the seam allowance
· produces a very flat, durable seam
· ideal for fluffy, thick materials such as terry cloth, felt
and leather
Sewing
· sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
· the stitch should go over the edge of the top layer of
fabric on the right swing of the needle
☞
TIPS
Fabric and thread
· use a matching thread color, for less visibility in fluffy
fabrics
Thick seam
· particularly suitable for fabrics in which a normal
straight stitch seam would stretch open
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 13
Practical stitch hems
Hems with practical stitches
Preparation
· fold and press hem; baste if desired
Sewing
· sew hem at desired depth (right side)
· trim excess fabric (wrong side)
Visible hem with Jersey stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Jersey stitch No. 14
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Visible stretch hem
· for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber
jerseys
☞
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops of
the knit fabric
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary, use a stretch needle (130/705H-S); the
point slides easily between the fibers
Visible hem with Triple Zig-zag
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Triple Zig-zag No. 7
2.5 mm – 5 mm depending on fabric
basic setting
universal or jeans
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Strong visible seam
· for firm, densely woven fabrics, particularly good for
denim and canvas
☞
TIPS
Hems on fabrics which may ravel
· finish the raw edge of the hem; do not trim them after sewing
Sewing firm, hard fabrics
· use a jeans needle for better penetration
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
11
NA_165_englisch
12
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 14
Sewing knits
Sewing knits
Important tips for sewing knit fabrics
Start with a new needle
· blunt needles can damage knits
Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary
· the needle point slides easily between the fibers
Use a fine sewing thread
· coarse threads can damage knits and cause holes when
the garment is washed
When basting, use a darning thread
· very lightweight (80 weight) darning thread is easier to
remove once the seam is complete
Sew a test, when necessary
· the elasticity of knit fabrics varies greatly
· adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the seam
should be as stretchy as the fabric
· for greater elasticity:
· use a shorter stitch length
· use a wider stitch width
(only one of these adjustments may be necessary)
Presser foot pressure
· soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat the machine
must still feed the fabric properly
Honeycomb stitch edges
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Honeycomb stitch No. 8
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Honeycomb stitch edges
· for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber knits
Preparation
· turn the raw edge under by 1 cm ( 3/ 8”); press and
baste if desired
Sewing
· sew from the right side
· trim excess fabric from the wrong side
Balance/corrections
· Stitch is too open – make the stitch shorter by touching the
“up” (↑) balance arrow several times
· Stitch is overlapping – make the stitch longer by touching
the “down” (↓) balance arrow several times
☞
TIPS
Needle stop down
· needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and
armholes)
Presser foot pressure
· reduce pressure if hem stretches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 15
Sewing knits
Ribbing with overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2
Ribbing with overlock seam
· for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits
2
Preparation
· fold ribbing in half
· pin and baste to opening, front edge to outside
Sewing
· sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
· guide the raw edge along the pin of the foot
· the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of
the fabric
☞
TIP
Needle stop down
· needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the
ribbing on curves (neck edge, armholes)
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
13
NA_165_englisch
14
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 16
Zippers
Zippers
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Zipper foot No. 4
far right or far left
Preparation:
· baste or pin zipper in place
· fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
Sewing
· sew both sides of zipper from bottom to top
· needle position should be fully to the right on one side
and and fully to the left on the other
· edge of presser foot runs next to zipper teeth
· position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge
of the zipper teeth
4
☞
TIPS
To sew around the zipper pull
· close the zipper and sew up to about 5 cm (2”) away
from the pull
· stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the
presser foot. Open the zipper, pulling the tab below
the needle; lower the foot and continue to sew
Starting to sew
· hold the thread firmly when starting to sew
· pull the fabric gently behind the needle for a few
stitches
Dense fabric
· for even stitch formation, use a 90 or 100 needle
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 17
Long stitch
Long stitch function
This function works with the straight stitch to produce a
longer than usual stitch.
The machine sews every second stitch when the Long
stitch function is activated. The longest stitch possible is
10 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm.
For decorative top stitching, the Long stitch function can
be combined with Triple Straight stitch.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Stitch length:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Function:
Straight stitch No. 1 or Triple Straight Stitch No. 6
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
3.5 mm – 5 mm
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Long stitch
Long stitch
· for all work where a longer stitch is desired
· for topstitching
☞
TIPS
Decorative top stitching
· use cordonnet (topstitching) thread and a 100–110
needle with the straight stitch
Basting
· long stitch can also be used to baste fine fabrics
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
15
NA_165_englisch
16
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 18
Basting stitch
Basting stitch
This feature is a stitch rather than a function (such as the
long stitch). When this stitch (No. 21) is selected, the
machine stitches a straight stitch, sewing every fourth
one. The longest stitch possible is 20 mm when the stitch
length is set at 5mm.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Stitch length:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Basting stitch No. 21
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
3.5 mm – 5 mm
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Basting stitch
· for all work where a very long stitch is desired
· quick and easy basting of seams, hems, etc.
· easy to remove
☞
TIPS
Securing a basted seam
· to secure basting stitches, sew a few normal length
straight stitches at the beginning and end of the seam
Basting
· use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after
the seam has been sewn
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 19
Blind hem
Blind hem
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Blindstitch No. 9
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or silk
up (sewing position)
Blindstitch foot No. 5
Blind hem
· for invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and
mixed fiber fabrics
Preparation
· finish the raw edges as desired
· fold the hem and baste or pin in place
· fold the garment back over the right side of the fabric
to expose the finished lower edge
· place the work under the presser foot (see drawing)
with the guide positioned against the folded back
fabric
Sewing
· the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold
· adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric
· after sewing about 10 cm (4”), check both sides of
fabric and adjust the stitch width if necessary
5
wrong side of fabric
wrong side of fabric
right side of fabric
☞
TIP
Fine stitch width adjustment
· guide the raw edge along the guide on the foot to keep
the stitch depth even
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
17
NA_165_englisch
18
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 20
Elastic, cord
Sewing on narrow elastic with Universal stitch
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Universal stitch No. 15
depends on width of elastic
type and size to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
or Embroidery foot No. 6
Sewing on elastic
· for gathering long lengths of fabric, frills and flounces
in fine fabrics
· works well for gathered sleeve edges and neck
openings
Preparation
· cut elastic to length required
Sewing
· oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch width to be
slightly wider than the elastic
· needle must not pierce the elastic
· after sewing,adjust the gathers evenly
☞
TIPS
Secure the beginning and end of elastic
· sew a few straight stitches backward and forward to secure the elastic
Quick hem finish
· for children’s or doll clothing
· sew sleeve edges with elastic before sewing seams
Sewing on shirring elastic/cord with Gathering stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Gathering stitch No. 12
size and type to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3
Shirring elastic/cord
· for gathering long lengths of fabric
Preparation
· cut shirring elastic or cord double the length of the edge
· fold in half lengthways
· hook over the center toe on the buttonhole foot
· take both ends of the cord under the foot to the back
Sewing
· sew a few stitches
· lift the elastic or cord at the front and pull towards you
· leave ends behind the presser foot
· oversew cord without stitching into it
· after sewing, pull the cord to gather the fabric
· stretch elastic while sewing; the more it is stretched, the
tighter the gathers
☞
TIPS
Securing beginning and end
· sew a few stitches with the feed-dog lowered
Presser foot pressure
· increase the foot pressure, if necessary, for better
feeding of the fabric and cord
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 21
Elastic, cord
Sewing on wide elastic
Stitch:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Running stitch No. 4 or Sewn-out Zig-zag No. 16 or
Lycra stitch No. 17
adjust to suit elastic
size and type to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Wide elastic
· for edges on sportswear and lingerie
Preparation
· cut elastic to length required
· divide fabric edge and elastic into 4 equal sections
and mark
· pin elastic to raw edge, matching markings
Sewing
· stretch the elastic to fit the raw edge while sewing
· trim excess fabric close to the stitching
☞
TIP
Preventing elastic from stretching too much
· avoid over-stretching the elastic; adjust the presser foot
pressure to suit the fabric.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
19
NA_165_englisch
20
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 22
Bar tack program
Bartack program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Bartack program No. 24 or Buttonhole bartack No. 25
size and type to suit the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Bartack program
· for reinforcing seams subject to heavy wear such as
those on pockets, jackets, jeans, and overalls
· use for attaching ribbons to a quilt for tying
Buttonhole bartack
· for reinforcing buttonhole bartacks
Sewing
· the machine starts top left with the bartack program
· the machine stops automatically at the end of the
program
☞
TIP
Decorative bar tacks
· increase the stitch length and sew the bar tack
program with decorative thread as a decorative
element; combine with other stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 23
Buttonholes
Important information on buttonholes
Thread tension
· thread the finger of the bobbin case
· the bobbin tension will be slightly tighter than normal
· this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads,
making the buttonhole more attractive
Manual buttonholes
· stitched using Buttonhole foot 3
· the buttonhole length of manually stitched buttonholes
must be marked on the fabric in the appropriate
position
Automatic buttonholes
· stitched using Automatic buttonhole foot 3A
· mark the length of the first buttonhole
· after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all
subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed
· mark the starting point of all subsequent buttonholes
· Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
Test sewing
· always sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use with the
same interlining, interfacing, and stabilizers
· select the same buttonhole type
· sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the
fabric (with or against the grain)
Corrections
To adjust the bead width:
· alter the stitch width
Altering the stitch length:
· any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads
(making them more or less dense)
· always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after
any changes are made to the stitch length
Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes
· any balance alterations affect both beads
Balance for stitch counter buttonholes
· any balance alterations affect the first (left) bead:
Bead too dense– if the first bead looks like
A, use the “down” arrow to correct it
Bead not dense enough – if the first bead looks like
B, use the “up” arrow to correct it
· always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after
any changes are made to the balance
Clear balance
· press the external clr button
A
B
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
21
NA_165_englisch
22
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 24
Buttonholes
Corded Buttonhole
· gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their
appearance
· the loop of the cord should be at the end of the
buttonhole most subject to wear or where the button
is sewn on
· position the work accordingly
· gimp cord is particularly recommended for standard
and stretch buttonholes
Suitable cords:
· Perle yarn No. 8
· strong hand sewing thread
· fine crochet yarn
· gimp cord
3
3
Hooking the cord onto presser foot No. 3
· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
· raise the presser foot
· hook the cord over the center toe of the foot
· place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole
of the foot and pull them to the back
· lower the presser foot
Sewing
· sew the buttonhole in the usual manner
· do not hold the cord tightly
· the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Securing the cord
· pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop
disappears into the end of it
· pull the ends of the cord through to back of the fabric
· knot or secure with stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 25
Buttonholes
Hooking the cord in the automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
· raise the presser foot
· guide the cord under the foot to the right
· hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot
3A
3A
· bring the cords to the front of the foot
· pull each end into one of the notches at the front of
the foot
Sewing
· sew the buttonhole in the usual manner
· do not hold the cord
· the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Securing the cord
· pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop
disappears into the end of it
· pull the ends of the cord through to back of the fabric
· knot or secure with stitches
Cutting buttonholes open
· using the seam ripper, cut from the ends towards
the middle
Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory)
· place the fabric on a piece of wood
· place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole
· press the handle of the cutter to open the
buttonhole
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
23
NA_165_englisch
24
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 26
Buttonholes
Straight stitch buttonholes
Straight stitch buttonholes are useful as a foundation for
satin stitched buttonholes on soft and loosely woven
fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks
of the second (satin stitched) buttonhole will cover the
straight stitching.
They are also good for stitching bound buttonholes and
reinforcing buttonhole openings on leather, vinyl, and felt.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch buttonholes No. 59
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3 or Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A
3A
Automatic program with Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
· if using Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A, the sensor
on the foot will automatically register the length of the
buttonhole so it can be duplicated
Sewing the automatic buttonhole program
· sew the first line of straight stitches forward until the
desired length is reached
· press and release the quick reverse button
· auto appears = length is programmed
· machine completes the buttonhole program automatically
· all subsequent buttonholes will be stitched to the same
length (without pressing the quick reverse button)
· the distance between the stitched lines can be adjusted
with the stitch width
Stitch counter program with buttonhole foot No. 3
· select function presser foot 3 for stitch counter
buttonholes
· Buttonhole foot No.3 will register the number of stitches in
the buttonhole
3
Sewing the stitch counter buttonhole program
· sew the first bead, stop stitching at the desired length
· press and release the quick reverse button
· continue sewing; the machine will stitch the end of the
buttonhole and then the second bead in reverse
· stop stitching when the needle reaches the first stitch
· press and release the quick reverse button
· machine sews the horizontal bar and securing stitches
· machine stops automatically
· auto appears on the screen
· each subsequent stitched buttonhole will be sewn to the
same length as the programmed buttonhole
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 27
Buttonholes
25
Automatic buttonholes (all types)
Both beads are sewn in the same direction
Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
Stretch buttonholes are particularly effective on all knit
fabrics because the double overlock stitch used for the
beads stretch with the fabric while keeping its shape.
Note: The automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A must lie
perfectly flat on the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam,
the length cannot be measured accurately.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Buttonhole (all types)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic buttonhole
· the lens on automatic buttonhole foot No.3A
automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for
exact duplication
· buttonholes from 4 – 29 mm can be sewn
3A
Sew the first bead
· the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to
the right of the presser foot symbol)
· sew the first bead forward, stopping at the desired
length
Program the buttonhole
· press and release the quick reverse button
· auto appears on the screen to indicate that the
buttonhole length is programmed
· continue sewing; the machine completes the
buttonhole and stops automatically
☞
Auto buttonhole
· machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole
· reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent
buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the quick reverse button)
Exact duplicates
· the auto function ensures
that each buttonhole will
be exactly the same
length as the previous
one
Important:
· if you make a mistake, press the Pattern Begin function
· the machine reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole
Marking
· mark only the beginning
of the buttonholes – a
real time saver!
TIPS
Sewing speed
· sew at moderate speed
for best results
· sew all buttonholes at
the same speed for a
consistent bead density
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
26
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 28
Buttonholes
Automatic round and keyhole buttonholes
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Round buttonholes Nos. 54–55
and keyhole buttonholes Nos. 56–58
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic buttonhole
· the lens on automatic buttonhole foot No.3A
automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for
exact duplication
· buttonholes from 4–29 mm can be sewn
3A
Sew the buttonhole
· the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to
the right of the presser foot symbol)
· sew straight stitches forward, stopping at the desired
length
Program the buttonhole
· press and release the quick reverse button
· auto appears on the screen to indicate that the
buttonhole length is programmed
· continue sewing; the machine completes the
buttonhole and stops automatically
Auto buttonhole
· machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole
· reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent
buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the quick reverse button)
Important:
· if you make a mistake, press the Pattern Begin function
· the machine reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole
☞
TIPS
Exact Duplicates
· the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length
as the previous one
Marking
· mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!
Double sewn keyhole buttonholes
· keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics
· after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work
· simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 29
Buttonholes
Stitch counter buttonholes for all buttonhole types
(can not be saved in memory)
The first (left) bead is sewn forwards, the second (right)
bead is sewn in reverse.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Buttonholes (all types)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3
Stitch counter buttonholes
· Select the stitch counter buttonhole function
Length of first bead
· sew the first bead, stopping at the desired length
· press and release the quick reverse button
Bartack, second bead
· bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse
· stop machine at the first stitch
· press and release the quick reverse button
Bartack, securing stitches
· machine sews the top bartack and securing stitches
· machine stops automatically
· auto appears on the screen
· the buttonhole is programmed and saved
· each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically
Corrections
· reprogram the buttonhole if any alterations to the
stitch width, length, or balance have been made
Programmed buttonhole on a different fabric
· different fabrics and interfacings can affect the look of
a stitch counter buttonhole
· if you are using a new material, program the
buttonhole again
☞
TIPS
More buttonholes with presser foot No. 3
· ideal for buttonholes which are difficult to sew with the larger foot of Automatic
buttonhole foot No. 3A
Beautiful buttonholes
· keep the speed consistent for beads of equal density
· sew at a moderate speed for best results
Marking
· mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
27
NA_165_englisch
28
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 30
Buttonholes
Manual 4/6-step buttonholes (all types)
Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to
sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes.
The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole.
A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
any buttonhole
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3
Open the program
· select the type of buttonhole desired (stitches 51–59)
· select the manual buttonhole function from the toolbar
Step symbols
· the step sequence is shown on the screen:
· standard buttonhole has 6 steps
· round buttonhole has 4 steps
· keyhole buttonhole has 4 steps
· the arrow in the circle is on “0” when the buttonhole
is first selected
Sewing a 4 or 6 step buttonhole
· touch 1 on the screen and sew the first bead
· stop the machine at the desired length
· touch 2, sew
· continue in this manner until the buttonhole is
complete
☞
TIP
Repairing buttonholes
· use the steps which are necessary to repair the worn
sections, omitting or bypassing the unneeded ones
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 31
Button sewing-on program
Button sewing-on program
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
18
Button sew-on program No. 60
depends on the distance between the holes
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
down (darning position)
Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)
Button sew-on program
· sews buttons with 2 and 4 holes
· the shank (thread length between button and fabric)
can be made shorter or longer as required
· buttons being sewn on for decorative purposes only
can be stitched without forming a thread shank
2-hole button
· select Button Sew-on program
· check distances between holes with the handwheel
· adjust stitch width if necessary
· hold the threads when starting to sew
· sew; machine stops automatically when program is
completed
· machine is automatically ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
· the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For secure results:
· cut the upper thread close to the button
· pull both bobbin threads until the upper thread is
visible on the wrong side
· trim bobbin thread (knot if desired)
18
☞
4-hole button
· sew the front holes
· carefully move the button forward
· sew the back holes
TIPS
Sewing on buttons by machine
· a real time saver, especially when several of the same
type buttons must be sewn on, e.g. shirts, blouses, etc.
Shortening zippers
· a zipper which is too long can be secured simply and
quickly using the button sew-on program
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
29
NA_165_englisch
30
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 32
Eyelets
Zigzag Eyelets
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Zig-zag Eyelet No. 61
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Zig-zag Eyelet
· ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons
· attractive decorative elements for clothing, crafts, etc.
· cannot be programmed into memory
Sewing eyelets
· select eyelet stitch No. 61
· position fabric under the presser foot and sew
· machine stops automatically when finished
· machine is automatically ready for the next eyelet
Punching eyelets
· use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet
Straight Stitch Eyelets
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight Stitch Eyelets No. 62
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Straight Stitch Eyelet
· ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons
· attractive decorative elements for clothing, crafts, etc.
· cannot be programmed into memory
Sewing eyelets
· select eyelet stitch No. 62
· position fabric under the presser foot and sew
· machine stops automatically when finished
· machine is automatically ready for the next eyelet
Punching eyelets
· use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet
☞
TIPS
Eyelets
· ideal for eyes on soft toys, dolls and puppets
Decorative eyelets
· use decorative thread to introduce an attractive element
when combined with other embroidery or decorative
stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 33
Darning, mending
Elastic Edges
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Zig-zag stitch No. 2
approximately 5mm
1 mm – 1.5 mm
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Elastic edges
· use on knit garments to re-form out-of-shape edges
Sewing
· guide double length of shirring elastic along the edge
of the fabric, stretching the elastic slightly
· oversew the elastic with a zig-zag stitch
· do not sew through the elastic, only over it
· adjust elastic after sewing is complete to regain the
correct shape and size
☞
TIP
Prevent fabrics stretching
· To prevent the fabric from stretching as it is sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
31
NA_165_englisch
32
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 34
Darning, mending
Reinforced edges on woven fabrics
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Honeycomb stitch No. 8 or Running stitch No. 4
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Reinforcing edges
· good for work clothes, table linen, towels, etc.
· use a cord to match the color of the fabric
Suitable cords
· perle yarn
· fine crochet yarn
· strong hand-sewing thread
· gimp
Sewing
· oversew edges with Honeycomb or Running stitch
· oversew a cord along the edge for added reinforcement
· if necessary, sew a second row somewhat in from the
edge
Patches on knits and jersey
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Jersey stitch No. 14
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Covering worn or damaged areas
· particularly suitable for stretchy fabrics, lingerie
Preparation
· do not cut damaged area
· round off the edges of the patch to retain flexibility
· pin and baste to right side
Sewing
· place patch over worn area
· sew over edge
· sew a second row inside the first if desired
· cut away damaged area
☞
TIPS
Knits
· use a new needle to prevent damage of the fabric loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S); point
slides easily between the fibers
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 35
Darning
Automatic darning
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Simple Darning Program No. 22 or Reinforced Darning
Program No. 23
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Preparation
· stretch fine fabrics into a darning or embroidery ring to
prevent distortion
Simple Darning Program No. 22
· replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics
· use with Reverse pattern foot No.1
· touch foot 3 on the toolbar across the lower part of the screen
· sew the first row
· press and release the quick reverse button at the desired
length;this programs the first length
· sew the second row
· press and release the quick reverse button; this programs
the second length
· continue sewing; the machine stops automatically
Reinforced Darning Program No. 23
· replaces threads along the lengthwise and crosswise
grains in all fabrics
· use with Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
· insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
· sew the first vertical row
· press and release the quick reverse button at the desired
length;this programs the length needed
· continue sewing; the machine stops automatically when
finished
Large areas
· reposition the work under the foot to continue covering
the worn area
· begin sewing;the program will repeat (length is saved)
Corrections
· if the darning becomes distorted, correct with the Balance
function (see page 44)
☞
TIPS
Reinforced darning
· place a piece of gauze under the worn area before
darning
Large areas
· increase the darning area lengthwise and crosswise by
moving the work under the foot
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
33
NA_165_englisch
34
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 36
Darning
Manual darning
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory)
Darning holes or worn areas
· replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise
grains in all fabrics
Preparation
· stretch fabric into darning ring (optional accessory) to
prevent distortion
· use of the slide-on sewing table is recommended
Sewing
· move the darning ring smoothly and without using
pressure
· work from left to right
Stitch over the hole
· sew the first rows to cover the hole (not too close)
· turn work by a quarter turn – 90°
Cover the first rows
· sew over the first rows – not too close for a soft finish
· turn work by a half turn – 180°
Complete darning
· loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows
Method for tubular items
· first step in a horizontal direction
· second and third steps in lengthways direction
When you have mastered the technique
· work the rows in irregular lengths so that the turns are
“lost” in the fabric
Stitching hints
· move the hoop as if writing the letters “L” or “M”
· when changing direction, move in curves, avoiding points
· this prevents holes and thread breakage
· do not sew in circles; these do not mimic the fabric
threads
☞
TIPS
Thread breaks
· if thread breakage is a problem, it could be that the
ring is not being moved smoothly
Poor stitch formation
· if the thread is lying on top of the fabric, the ring is
being moved too quickly
· if there are knots on the underside of the fabric, the
ring is being moved too slowly
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 37
35
Decorative stitches
Decorative stitches
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Any decorative stitch
embroidery needle in a size suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse Pattern foot No. 1 or
Embroidery foot No. 6 or
Open embroidery foot No. 20 (optional accessory)
Decorative stitches
· for all fabrics
· for embellishing and decorative work
Stitch selection
· press the external menu button for Decorative stitches
· select the desired stitch group from the screen (groups
100, 300, 400, 600, 700, and 900 are 5mm stitches)
· select the desired stitch
Screen
· selected stitch is highlighted
· suggests foot No.1; use foot No. 6 or No. 20 for heavy,
compact stitches
· basic settings (length and width) are automatically set,
but can be altered
Altering the stitch width
· alter the look of the stitch by adjusting the width
· turn the external stitch width knob to the right to
widen the stitch
· turn the external stitch width knob to the left to
narrow the stitch
· both the basic settings and the altered settings will be
visible on the screen
Altering the stitch length
· alter the look of the stitch by adjusting the length
· turn the external stitch width knob to the right to
lengthen the stitch
· turn the external stitch width knob to the left to
shorten the stitch
· both the basic settings and the altered settings will be
visible on the screen
☞
TIP
Altering the basic settings
· the stitch can be adjusted as desired
· adjust the size of the stitch to suit the size of the item
being sewn, e.g, reduce the width for small items such
as doll clothes
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
A
B
C
A decorative stitch with preset
width and length
B decorative stitch with reduced
width
C decorative stitch with
shortened length
NA_165_englisch
36
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 38
Cross stitches
Cross stitches
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Cross stitches Nos. 301–309, 314 or Cross stitch No. 310
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open embroidery foot No. 20 (optional accessory)
Cross stitch
· a useful and attractive addition to sewing projects of all
types
· combine cross stitches with other decorative stitches
Sewing
· sew and combine stitches 301–309, 314 in the same
manner as all other decorative stitches
310
Large cross stitch No. 310 (1st section)
· sew the first section
· machine stops automatically in the center
· the machine stops with the needle down in the fabric
even if the needle stop indicates “up”
310
· a curved arrow appears on the screen next to the
needle stop indicator
· the arrow is a reminder to turn the fabric 90° before
stitching the second part of the stitch
Large cross stitch No. 310 (2nd section)
· sew the second section
· the machine stops automatically at the end and is
ready to begin the next cross stitch
☞
TIPS
Cross stitch with embroidery thread
· stitches appear fuller
Cross stitch on a single layer
· always use stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 39
Quilt stitches
Hand-look quilt stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Upper thread:
Bobbin thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quilt stitch No. 328, 346–350
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
monofilament
30 weight, 2 ply cotton
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)
Hand-look quilt stitch
· for all fabrics and all types of work where the look of a
hand sewn running stitch is desired
Sewing test
· the bobbin thread comes through to the top of the
fabric
· 1 stitch is visible (cotton thread), 1 stitch is invisible
(monofilament thread) to give a hand stitched effect
Upper thread tension
· the upper thread tension is set automatically
· adjust if necessary to suit the fabric
Balance
· adjust if necessary
Sewing
· can be sewn with any needle position
☞
TIPS
Perfect corners
· activate Pattern end when approaching corner; when
the machine stops automatically, sink the needle (if
needed) and pivot the work
Monofilament hints
· if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly
and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
37
NA_165_englisch
38
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 40
Quilt stitches
Decorative quilt stitches
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quilt stitches Nos. 326–338, 351
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Straight stitch No. 326
· a short straight stitch (2mm)
· particularly suitable for piecing patchwork
Quilt stitches
· suitable for all fabrics and quilting
· especially applicable for crazy quilting
Balance
· adjust if necessary
Sewing
· select quilt stitch and sew
· all quilt stitches can be combined and programmed in
memory
☞
TIP
Perfect corners
· activate Pattern End; when the machine stops
automatically, sink the needle (if needed) and pivot the
work
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 41
Quilt stitches
Freehand quilting
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or monofilament
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory) or
Quilting foot No. 29 (optional accessory)
Freehand quilting
· for all freehand quilt work
Preparation
· pin and baste top layer, batting, and lining together
· attach the slide-on sewing table or place machine in a
cabinet
Holding the work
· start in the center and work out toward the edges
· hold the fabric with both hands like an embroidery
frame
9
Quilting a design
· turn the work using smooth, round movements to form
the design of your choice (either freehand or following
a template)
Stipple quilting
· this technique covers the entire surface of the fabric
· the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp
corners; they never cross or touch one another
☞
TIPS
Freehand quilting and darning
· both techniques are based on the same free-motion principles
Thread breaks
· usually as a result of sudden or jerky movements – move the
fabric smoothly and at an even pace
Poor stitch formation
· if the thread forms loops, the work is being moved too quickly
· if knots are forming on the underside, the work is being moved
too slowly
Monofilament hints
· if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly
and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
39
NA_165_englisch
40
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 42
Combining decorative stitches with functions
Using decorative stitches with functions
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Any decorative stitch
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Embroidery foot No. 6 or
Open embroidery foot No. 20 (optional accessory)
Combining basic settings and functions
· you can achieve some exciting effects by combining basic
settings with various functions
Horizontal mirror image
Vertical mirror image
Pattern end 1–9x
Half pattern
Balance
Long stitch function
Double needle limitation 2–5 mm
Wing needle limitation
Continuous reverse sewing
Pattern extend 2–5x
Balance
· use balance to obtain variations on
stitches
· the stitch will be stretched open or
compressed, depending on the number
of balance steps
· for additional information on the balance
function, see page 44
☞
Method
· select stitch
· select function
· several functions can be activated for one stitch
Deleting functions
· press the external clr button
· delete special functions individually by touching the
appropriate symbol
TIPS
Variations with basic settings
and functions
· before starting a new
combination, clear all
functions previously used
Decorative stitches on single
layer fabric
· always use stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
Activate needle stop down
when sewing long rows of
stitches
· needle stays in fabric when
stopping to reposition work
Single Pattern
· the machine stops automatically at the end of
each individual stitch pattern
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 43
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
41
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
·
·
·
·
the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns
the memory has 255 banks
each bank can be sub-divided as desired
most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters
and numbers can be combined, programmed, and
saved in memory
· exceptions: buttonholes
· all saved stitches remain in the memory when the
machine is turned off
· all saved stitches and combinations can be recalled at
any time
Programming practical and decorative stitches
· open the memory by pressing the external mem button
· touch mem 1 to access the memory storage screen
· select an empty memory bank
· touch OK to return to the previous screen
· select the desired stitch
· the stitch appears in the mem field
· select the next desired stitch
· continue in this manner until the desired combination
of stitches has been programmed
· to save, touch store
Example of programmed stitch combination
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· touch stitch 407 one time
· touch stitch 102 one time
· touch stitch 711 one time
· begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate
· to save, touch store
Examples of programmed stitch with function
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· touch stitch 413 one time
· activate vertical mirror image
· touch stitch 413 one time
· begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate
facing up and down
· to save, touch store
·
·
·
·
·
select a memory bank following the directions above
touch stitch 104 one time
activate vertical mirror image
touch stitch 104 one time
begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate
facing up and down
· to save, touch store
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
42
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 44
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
Stitch combination as single repeat
· select a memory bank following the directions on the
previous page
· touch stitch 409 one time
· touch stitch 616 two times
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 2
· stitch; the machine stops automatically at the end of
the second combination of stitches
· to save, touch store
Stitch combination with mirror image as single repeat
· select a memory bank following the directions on the
previous page
· touch stitch 109 one time
· touch stitch 414 one time
· activate horizontal mirror image
· touch stitch 414 one time
· activate horizontal mirror image
· touch stitch 109 one time
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
· stitch; the machine stops automatically
at the end of the combination of stitches
· to save, touch store
☞
TIPS
Decorative stitch combination with 30 wt-embroidery thread
· stitches appear fuller
Stitch combinations on single layer of fabric
· always use a stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 45
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
43
Letters and numbers in memory
·
·
·
·
the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns
the memory has 255 banks
each bank can be sub-divided as desired
most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters
and numbers can be combined, programmed, and saved
in memory
· exceptions: buttonholes and eyelets
· all saved stitches remain in the memory when the
machine is turned off
· all saved stitches and combinations can be recalled at
any time
Programming letters and numbers
· open the memory by pressing the external mem button
· touch mem 1 to access the memory storage screen
· select an empty memory bank
· touch OK to return to the previous screen
· select the desired letter
· the letter appears in the mem field
· select the next desired letter
· continue in this manner until the desired combination
of letters has been programmed
· to save, touch store
Examples of programming letters
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· press the external alphabet button
· touch the block letter alphabet
· touch the appropriate letters to spell “BERNINA”
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
· begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch,
automatically stopping after the “A”
· to save, touch store
· for double length letters, select Pattern the Extend 2x
function before programming
Examples of programming numbers
· follow the directions above for programming letters,
selecting numbers instead
· begin stitching; the numbers will continuously stitch,
automatically stopping after the last one
· to save, touch store
Examples of programming small monograms
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· press the external alphabet button
· touch the 5mm script alphabet
· touch the desired letters
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
· begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch,
automatically stopping after the last one
· to save, touch store
Securing
· select the Securing function
· the first and last letters will be secured
☞
TIPS
Activate Pattern end after programming
· the machine will sew the program once and stop
Embroidering letters on a single layer of fabric
· always use stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
NA_165_englisch
44
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 46
Balance
Balance
All stitches are tested and adjusted before the machine
leaves the factory; however, shipping and transporting
can affect the setting of the balance function.
Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can distort the
stitch patterns so that they are too long (do not close
properly) or too short (have a condensed appearance).
The electronic balance function can be used to correct
these distortions so that stitches can be adjusted for a
perfect formation on the fabric of your choice.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
all stitches
all types, 70–110
all threads
up (sewing position)
as indicated on screen
Test sewing
· it is always a good idea to test sew with the materials
you intend to use – fabric, stabilizer and threads
Open balance
· touch the arrow on the functions toolbar
· scroll the functions
· touch “b”
Balance and practical stitches/decorative stitches
· soft fabrics such as jerseys and tricot have a tendency
to stretch under the presser foot
· stitches such as Honeycomb may therefore not close
correctly
· this can be corrected with the balance function
Balance for practical stitches
· the stitch as it should look, e.g. Honeycomb, is in the
center of the screen
· possible stitch distortions are shown to the right and
left of the correct stitch
· the arrows at the bottom of the screen show in which
direction the stitch should be corrected
Note: the honeycomb stitch graphic will be seen
on-screen for all practical stitches
Corrections
· touch the appropriate arrow to balance the stitch
· the number of steps is shown above the arrow
· 2–5 steps are normally sufficient to balance practical
stitches (max. 50 steps)
Balance for decorative stitches
· the method is the same as for practical stitches
Note: the satin stitched oval graphic will be seen
on-screen for all decorative stitches
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
overlapping
stitch
balanced
stitch
open
stitch
NA_165_englisch
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 47
Index
45
Index
A
Auto buttonholes
Auto round and keyhole
buttonholes
Automatic darning program
H
S
25
Honeycomb stitch edges
26
33
J
Jersey overlock seam
12
9
B
Balance practical/decorative
stitches
Bar tack program
Basting
Blind hem
Button Sew-on program
Buttonholes
L
44
20
16
17
29
21–28
C
Contents
Cross stitches
1
36
Letters and numbers in memory
Long Stitch
43
15
Securing program (straight stitch) 3
Sewing knits
12,13
Stitch counter buttonholes
27
Straight stitch buttonholes
24
Straight stitch with securing
program
3
Straight stitch
2
Stretch overlock seam
10
Stretch/Super stretch seam
8
T
Triple straight stitch seam
8
M
Manual buttonholes
28
Manual darning
34
Memory – letters and numbers
43
Memory – practical and
decorative stitches
41–43
U
Universal stitch – sewing on
elastic
18
V
D
N
Darning programs
33
Darning, mending
31–34
Decorative stitches in memory 41–43
Decorative stitches with functions 40
Decorative stitches
35
Double overlock seam
9
Numbers and letters in memory
E
Edge stitching
Edges of knits with elastic
Elastic – sewing on
Eyelets, straight stitch
Eyelets, zig-zag
4
31
18, 19
30
30
F
Flat joining seam
Freehand quilting
P
Personal (altered) memory
Practical stitch hems
Practical stitch seams
Practical stitches in memory
6
11
7–10
41–43
Q
Quilt stitches
Quilt/hand look stitches
38
37
R
10
39
Vari-overlock – ribbing
Vari-overlock seam
13
9
Z
Reinforced darning program
Reinforcing edges on woven
fabrics
Ribbing with overlock
G
Gathering stitch – sewing on
elastic/cord
43
18
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
33
32
13
Zig-zag stitch
Zippers
5
14
16.4.2004
11:04 Uhr
Seite 48
04/01 EN 030 787 52 04
NA_165_englisch
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Download PDF