CAA2055FAInstalllation

CAA2055FAInstalllation
©
1967-68 Camaro/Firebird Factory Air
DOCUMENT #1-2055FA
©2012 ClassicAutoAir / 3.12vs.a
Congratulations...
You have just purchased the highest quality, best performing
A/C system ever designed for your Classic Vehicle.
To obtain the high level of performance and dependability our systems are known for, please pay close attention to the
following instructions. Our installation steps and procedures are derived from a long history of research and
development and the combined experience achieved thru thousands of successful installations (and feedback from
customers like you). Please remember that our #1 goal is that you’ll have a successful installation and a system that
performs at a very high level for many years to come.
Before starting, read the instructions carefully, from beginning to end, and follow the proper sequence. On the next
page you’ll find a safety and general checklist that you should read before starting your installation.
Again, thank you from our entire staff.
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4
Check List, Pre-Installation:
Before beginning the installation check the shipping box for the correct components. YOUR BOXED UNIT INCLUDES A LIST OF
MAJOR COMPONENTS AND A LIST OF BAGGED PARTS. We have a 5 stage check process to make sure you have everything you’ll
need.
If your vehicle has been or is being modified, some procedures will need to be adjusted to fit your particular application.
A basic cleaning of the engine compartment and interior before beginning will make things go more smoothly.
Check condition of engine mounts. Excessive engine movement can damage hoses to A/C and/or heater.
Before starting, check vehicle interior electrical functions (interior lights, radio, horn, etc). Make a note of anything that does not work as
it’s supposed to. During the installation you might find the opportunity to repair or upgrade non-working or out of date components.
When you’re ready to start the installation, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST.
Drain the radiator. Retain the coolant and reuse, or dispose of properly.
SAFETY FIRST: Wear eye protection while drilling/cutting, deburr sharp edges, and never get in a hurry or force a part.
Tools: Your installation only requires the basic tools everyone has in their garage, nothing exotic or specific to A/C or Heat equipment.
Procedures, During Installation:
Fittings: Use one or two drops of mineral oil (supplied with your kit) on ALL rubber o-rings, threads and rear of bump for o-ring where
female nut rides. Do not use thread tape or sealants.
Measure twice (or more), cut once
Should you have any technical questions, or feel you have defective components (or missing items), call us immediately,
we will be glad to assist you. Our toll-free number is listed on every page, we’re here to help!
YOU CAN NOW BEGIN THE INSTALLATION...
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5
A Basic A/C Overview
OUTSIDE AIR
Evaporator with Blower Fan
1
In order to remove the heat from the air in the vehicle, the A/C
evaporator allows the refrigerant to absorb the heat from the air passing over it. The blower fan moves cool air out into the car
interior.
2
Compressor The compressor pumps and circulates the refrigerant through the system.
3
Condenser The condenser is a heat exchanger mounted at the front of the vehicle. Heat drawn out of the interior of
Suction
Valve Discharge
Valve
the car is expelled here.
4
Receiver/Drier The drier not only dries refrigerant, it also filters the refrigerant and stores it under certain
Receiver
Drier
Condenser
Compressor
operating conditions.
5
High Pressure Switch A pressure switch is used to shut down the system if high or low pressure is
detected, basically it acts as a safety switch.
Firewall
Expansion Valve
AIR FROM INSIDE VEHICLE
COO
LED
AIR
1
SUC
LIQ
U
TIO
3
NH
OS
ID H
OS
E
2
RG
CHA
E
GRO
POW
ER
UND
Evaporator Unit
SE
E HO
COLD AIR INTO VEHICLE
DIS
5
4
The air conditioning system in your car is comprised of a compressor, condenser,
expansion valve, receiver/drier, and evaporator. Refrigerant (also known as Freon) is
compressed in the compressor and turns into a gas. In the condenser, this gas is cooled to a
liquid state and travels to the expansion valve. As the liquid refrigerant goes through the
expansion valve it rapidly cools in the evaporator. A fan blows over the evaporator and cools the
air that blows out your vents. The receiver-drier separates gas and liquid.
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6
Control & Operating Instructions
Your new Perfect Fit-Elite system offers complete comfort capabilities in virtually every driving condition. This
includes temperature control in all of the modes. This system also provides the ability to blend the air between Face,
Heat, and Defrost modes simultaneously. To illustrate the various ways you can adjust the airflow direction and
temperature - we’ve provided these handy illustrations and chart to show exactly how you can adjust your Perfect
Fit-Elite for maximum comfort...
The FAN switch works like the OEM switch, the
far left position is OFF (all power to the system
is OFF in this position)
MODE LEVER
DASH
HI
FLOOR
DEFROST
UNUSED
There are 11 levels of adjustment within the
range of the DASH/FLOOR lever
TEMP LEVER
COLD
FAN
FAN SWITCH
HOT
The COLD/HOT positions works like any
traditional adjustment lever
FLOOR
Left Lever Postion
Distribution
Compressor State
DEF
DASH
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Face A/C
100%
Face A/C
80%
Face A/C
60%
Face A/C
40%
Face A/C
20%
Defrost
100%
Floor
20%
Defrost
20%
Defrost
40%
Defrost
60%
Defrost
80%
Defrost
80%
ON
8
9
10
11
Floor
60%
Floor
40%
Floor
80%
Floor
100%
Defrost
40%
Defrost
60%
Defrost
20%
ON
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7
INTERIOR
COMPARTMENT
Remove Glovebox, Console (optional)
Radio and Bezel, and set them aside
for reinstall later
(see figure 1).
The removal of the Original Heater Assembly can be
accomplished by disconnecting three control cables. One is
attached to the Heat/Defrost door (see figure 2). One is
attached to the Temperature door, and one is attached to the
Vent / Heat door (see figure 3). Disconnect the electrical
harness from the assembly. Also remove attachment screw
located in front of the air inlet (see figure 4).
When retaining parts it’s a
good idea to store parts in a
zip lock bag, labeled with
GOOD IDEA info where the parts came
from and what size/type of
tool is needed to reinstall. Cleaning
the parts before you need to reinstall
them is a good idea too.
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 4
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8
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT A
You will use all of these parts and hardware during the next series of installation steps.
Pressure Switch
(engine compartment)
Ground
Ground
ECU
Thermostat
OEM Power
Supply
Fan
Plug
Blower Switch Knob
PN#525235
Cable Integrators
PN#16-2030
Wire Harness Power Supply
PN#0105-36
Blower Switch
Connection
Relay
Two #8 - 20x3/8" Screws
Push Nuts
PN#PD156007PG
Blower Switch
PN#3T-235
Blower Switch Bracket
PN#0047-30
Two - Cable Clips
PN#25-1015
NOTE: Illustrations NOT shown actual size
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9
Remove The Control Head From The Dash.
1) Remove the OEM blower switch and knob. Retain the screws, you will use
them again shortly. Remove the control cables and the original blower switch
and set aside (these will not be reused). Remove the OEM vacuum switch also.
2) Attach the new blower switch bracket as shown in the sequence below,
utilizing the OEM screws (you will use one of the crews from the OEM vacuum
switch). Then attach the new blower switch and attach the included knob.
This completes this portion of the control modification.
Two #8 - 20x3/8" Screws
OEM SCREWS
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10
Flip the control head over and continue on...
Preparing the EZ Cable Integrators for installation: First place the included cable
clips over the ends of the EZ Integrators (as shown in figure 5). Prepare both
integrators the same way.
It is very important that you place the cable clips over the end of the integrators
very securely and evenly. Place the cable clip over the end, press it firmly into
place (using needle-nose pliers is recommended)
Next, attach the EZ Cable Integrators to the control head as show in below.
Each will be attached to the body utilizings OEM screws that originally held
cables. Push the the loop ends of the integrators over the posts on the
appropriate levers, and then secure them with the included push nuts.
MODE
TEMP
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11
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT B
You will use all of these parts and hardware during the next series of installation steps.
Suction Tube
PN#0034-10
Liquid Tube
PN#0034-9
#6 and #10 O-ring
Evaporator Support Brackets
PN#0023-7
Fresh Air Inlet Block Off
PN#10-1048-2
Two #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws
One Bulb Clamp
One Flange Nut
Cap Plug
Defrost/Heat Duct Assembly
PN#2-2025-2
One Male Spade Connector
Six #10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips Screws
Illustrations NOT shown actual size
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12
Locate the original wiring harness that supplied power to the original heater motor.
Reaching thru the glove box opening pull these wires out of their grommet (see figure
6). (GM normally used a brown wire for power). After the removal of the wire, and
vacuum harness there will be a hole in the firewall. Using the 1 ½” cap plug we’ve
included you can plug the hole. On the OEM power supply wire attach a 1/4”
insulated male spade connector. Within the OEM fuse box upgrade the factory
HEATER fuse with a 20 amp fuse (VERY IMPORTANT).
4"
Locate the included template, piece it together from the two pages and use to drill
the drain hole. Attach to the firewall using the two OEM holes as guides as shown
below.
Follow directions on the templates and drill the holes for the evaporator.
From inside of the vehicle drill the hole for the drain tube.
FIGURE 6
You can now begin
installing your Classic
Air Perfect Fit Elite
System.
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13
Within the engine compartment area, Install a Fresh Air inlet block off over the
OEM vent opening using the original bolts.
COWL
Remove evaporator unit from box and place on a flat work surface.
Locate defrost / heat duct assembly and attach to the evaporator using two
#10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips screws (see figure 7). NOTE: Be sure that the s-clips are
pushed over rear flange on evaporator.
Remove Passenger and Drivers side ball louvers. Retain original hardware.
Located behind the OEM astro vents louvers you will find a flex duct connected
to the air inlet adapter. Remove the duct and the air inlet adapter. Attach the
included block-off plates (Two PN#0047-1) over the existing holes using original
hardware.
Take a minute to familiarize yourself with the evaporator unit:
Evaporator Mouting Stud
Actuator Motor
Floor/Face
Vent Door
Evaporator
Support Bracket
Holes
Thermostat
FIGURE 7
Blower Motor Plug
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DASH
FIREWALL
Installing the complete evaporator unit under the dash will go much easier with
the help of a friend. One person can take the unit within the car and “roll” up
and under the dash while the other person can be ready at the firewall area with
the included flange nut to secure the unit in place (see figure 8). Now the unit
will be easy to level and secure. Leveling the unit is very important to insure
proper drainage of condensation.
LEVEL
TECH TIPS
Be sure to align the evaporator unit level with the bottom of
instrument panel (assuming the vehicle is sitting level) as shown
above, but with a small degree of tilt toward the back to allow
proper drain of condensation.
Flange Nut attached to stud protruding
thru original mounting hole
FIGURE 8
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15
Locate in the UPPER MOUNTING BRACKETS and attach to evaporator unit
using four #10 - 10 x 5/8" Phillips screws. Attach other end to the cowling
with a #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws (see figure 9). IMPORTANT NOTE: On the
side of the main unit you will see several holes for mounting holes...
ONLY USE THE ONES ON THE FAR LEFT AND RIGHT FOR THESE
BRACKETS! Do not tap into the other holes for any reason (see figure 10).
Also, use a screwdriver and hand-power and do not over-tighten so you don't
strip the holes.
#10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screw
YES
FIGURE 10
NO!
FIGURE 9
YES
#10 x 5/8"
Screws
#10 x 5/8"
Screws
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16
Install liquid line onto the Expansion valve (TXV) as
shown. Use #6 o-ring and (2) drops of mineral oil on
the o-ring and tighten securely.
Install Suction Tube to the outlet on the unit as
shown. Use #10 o-ring and (2) drops of mineral oil
on the o-ring and tighten securely.
Locate Sensing Coil attached to Expansion valve
(TXV) and utilizing Bulb Clamp, attach to the Suction
Tube.
O-RING
CAUTION: THE SYSTEM WILL NOT FUNCTION
PROPERLY IF THE SENSING COIL IS NOT
CLAMPED IN THE CORRECT POSITION. SEE
PICTURE.
O-RING
Wrap Suction Tube and Sensing Coil with the
refrigerant tape provided. Be sure that all of the
exposed metal is covered.
CLAMP
LB
U
B
NO!
TECH TIPS
Reminder...
Use two
wrenches to
tighten o-ring
fittings
NO!
YES
NO!
Suction Tube
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17
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT C
You will use all of these parts and hardware during the next series of installation steps.
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(OHFWURQLF:DWHU&RQWURO9DOYH
31
6L[:RUP*HDU&ODPSV
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6L[[7HN6FUHZV
Illustrations NOT shown actual size
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18
In Bag Kit C you’ll find the firewall block off. Install this over the hose connections
coming thru the firewall within the engine compartment. Attach with six #10 - 16 x 3/4"
Tek screws. Seal around the tubes with the included refrigerant tape. This will keep
unwanted moisture and debris from entering thru the firewall... so seal
carefully and thoroughly.
Heater
Tubes
A/C
Tubes
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Classic Auto Air has done extensive testing on the
correct method to install the water valve in order to get a repeatable and progressive
temperature control. The water valve must be installed per these instructions!....
It may be necessary to manipulate
the tubes slightly to get proper
fittment thru the block-off plate
The lower connection on the tubes coming thru the block off assembly is going to be
routed to the water outlet on the intake manifold. Attach your hose with cable clamps
on both ends and route where it will not intefere with linkage or come in contact with
exhaust manifolds or headers.
ER
COR
E
The upper port coming thru the firewall will be routed to and thru your new your
electronic water valve (the water valve is marked for easy installation). First Attach
a 6” piece of 5/8” dia. heater hose with the supplied worm gear clamp. Attach
to the inlet side of the water valve using another supplied hose clamp.
Attach a heater hose from the outlet side of the electronic water valve
and route to the connection on the water pump.
PU
MP
AT
ER
HE
Insert a 6" piece of the clear, 1/2" drain tube we included
through the hole previously drilled and attach over the
drain nipple. Seal around tube with refrigerant tape.
T
WA
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19
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KIT D
You will use all of these parts and hardware during the next series of installation steps.
CONT
WATER
VALVE
The ECU will be shipped in it’s own box,
along with the calibration key.
ROL
ST
FACE/F
LOOR
DEFRO
POWER
)LYH[7HN6FUHZV
<HOORZ
2UDQJH
%OXH
:LUH+DUQHVV6\VWHP
Illustrations NOT shown actual size
20
We’ve included enough wire length to allow you to mount the ECU in a variety
of places. It is very important that you mount this in a place where it will stay dry
and that vibration is at a minimum. Also make sure that where ever you mount it
does not interfere with any moving controls or cables. We recommend
mounting it just above the right hand side of the main unit using the included
tek-screws. IMPORTANT! DON’T MOUNT THE ECU PERMANENTLY JUST
YET. THAT CAN BE DONE AFTER YOU CALIBRATE THE UNIT.
In Bag Kit D you will find three wiring harnesses with connections at each end.
Plug the harness with YELLOW band into the YELLOW ECU port and the other
end into the servo motor on the main unit (motor is marked with YELLOW
INDICATOR). Repeat this process for the other two harnesses, following the
color coding indicated on cables and ports. Attach cable in the engine
compartment to the electronic water valve (see figure 12). Using one of the CAP
PLUGS provided, slot it and install over the heater hose/cable.
Figure 12
ROL
CONT
FACE/F
LOOR
FIREWALL
VALVE
WATER
NOTE: The GREEN harness connection will be made from the harness you
previously installed, just plug the loose connection in the CONTROL
port on the ECU.
ST
DEFRO
POWER
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21
Orang
eH
arn
e
Wiring Diagram/Overview
To 12V Power Supply
Re
Electronic Water Valve
d
/W
ss
hite
Compressor
Wi
re
r
G
Wh
Pressure Switch
Ground
ECU
Relay
Servo for Defrost Ducts
Evaporator
Bl
ue
Ground
REMINDER: BE SURE THAT THE WIRING HARNESS DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE OPERATION OF ANY CONTROLS.
W ire
Blu
eW
ire
Thermostat
Red Wire
ness
ire
W
Blu
e
Servo for Face/Floor Ducts
Blue Har
ss
r ne
Yello w H a
Cable Integrators
Ground
Wire
ite
Blower Switch
res
Wi
e
Blu
ess
arn
H
n
ee
22
TEMPORARILY RECONNECT THE BATTERY AT THIS TIME.
HI
YOU CAN NOW CALIBRATE YOUR UNIT.
FAN
CALIBRATION: Before we boxed and shipped your unit, we tested and
calibrated it to factory specifications to make sure it is capable of operating at
maximum efficiency. However, the unit must still be calibrated to your specific
vehicle and controls. This is an easy process that will only take a few minutes.
HI
FAN
HI
As you follow thru these steps you’ll be able to hear the motors working on your
unit. If for any reason your unit does not calibrate properly the first time, just turn
off the unit and rerun the setup process.
FAN
1)
2)
V
VAL
E
ER
WAT
Ca
ST
RO
DEF
L
RO
NT
CO
R
OO
/FL
CE
FA
L
RO
NT
CO
R
WE
PO
Ca
QUICK
NOTE
libra
tio
libra
tion
Ke
V
VAL
DEFROST
COLD
DASH
HOT
DEFROST
COLD
DASH
COLD
FLOOR
FLOOR
HOT
DEFROST
FLOOR
HOT
4)
5)
Insert Calibration Key
Move MODE control to (FLOOR) and
TEMP control to (COLD)
Power Up Board (turn fan control to MEDIUM) the
LED comes ON
After 1 second the LED turns OFF
After 1 second the LED turns ON
B
6)
7)
8)
Move MODE control to (DASH)
After 1 second the LED turns OFF
After 1 second the LED turns ON
C
9) Move TEMP control to (HOT)
10) After 1 second the LED turns OFF
11) After 1 second the LED turns ON
A
ER
WAT
DASH
E
3)
y
ST
RO
DEF
R
OO
/FL
CE
FA
R
WE
PO
ey
nK
Disconnecting the power (i.e. battery) will not cause your ECU to
lose it’s settings. AFTER CALIBRATING, REMOVE KEY AND
STORE IN A SAFE, DRY PLACE - ALONG WITH THIS PAGE.
12) The motor calibration starts, one way
then the other, then the doors set
to midpoint
13) LED turns OFF
14) Turn power to OFF
15) Remove and store calibration key
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23
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL FIND IN BAG KITS E, F, and G
You will use all of these parts and hardware during the next series of installation steps.
Bag E
Bag F
Ball Louver Adaptors
(2 piece assembly)
PN#2-1055-1
Bag G
Center Dash Vent Adaptor
PN# 2-1054-3
Two Defrost Diffuser
PN#2-1054-2
Two Duct Hoses, 2" I.D.
Two Duct Hoses, 2" I.D.
Two Duct Hoses, 2" I.D.
Face/Floor Assembly
PN#2-2025-1
Two #6 - 20x3/8" Screws
Four Zip-Ties
Four Zip-Ties
Four Zip-Ties
Illustrations NOT shown actual size
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24
Bag Kit E. The following steps are for left and right Defrost Diffusers...
Locate and route the duct hoses from the defrost/heat duct assembly upward
toward defrost vents. Attach the flex hose to the defrost defuser using zip-ties.
The other end of the duct hose is installed over the defrost/heat duct assembly
outlets on main unit (see figures 13 and 14).
The face/floor assembly comes preinstalled with s-clips which allow you to
install it onto the evaporator unit quickly and securely (see figure 15).
TOP OF DASH
FIGURE 13
FIGURE 14
Push defrost adaptors onto
lip of dash tab (below defrost vents,
inside of dash), S-clips (already installed)
will hold the adaptors securely
FIGURE 15
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25
Insert original ball into the original louver housing. Attach hose adaptors to the
back of housing (applying pressure will keep your louver ball in place).
Reinstall louver assemblies into original holes using original hardware.
The smoother the route of the flex hoses
the better the airflow.
GOOD IDEA
To defrost defuser ada
Route supplied flex hoses as shown below.
Take your time and route them so they
don’t become kinked or torn.
ptors
During installation of the hoses be
aware of the eventual movement of
the wiper arm components.
OEM Housing
OEM Ball
Louver
Two-Piece
Adaptor
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Install center hose adaptor from behind the opening as shown. Secure
using (2) #10 x 5/8” pan head screws.
Cut (1) piece of flex hose 24” long, and one piece 19” long. Attach
longest piece to the right hose adapter using (1) #10 x 5/8” pan head
screw. Other piece attaches to the left adaptor using (1) #10 x 5/8” pan
head screw.
Route the hoses from the center vent to the two
remaining openings on the Face/Floor assembly on
the evaporator. Reinstall the bezel using the original hardware.
You can reinstall the glove box at this time, and any other interior
components that we’re removed.
This completes the interior portion of the PERFECT FIT-ELITE
installation process. This is a good time to make a final check that all the
controls still move freely and that nothing is loose or hanging down.
The interior of your car should look pretty much the same as before you
started (or better). Plus you probably got to know the underside of your
dash a lot better and might even have repaired or upgraded components
that needed attention.
Good Job... Let's move on to the major components within the
engine compartment....
If you have any questions before you move
on the final phase of this installation, call us.
888.791.6384
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27
THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE
ENGINE COMPARTMENT INSTALLATION
You’ll find all of these parts within the main box
Drier Bracket
Top Condenser Bracket
PN#0049-50
Bottom Condenser Brackets
PN#0049-51
Splice and
Bullet Connector
Condenser
PN#11-1089
Core Support Bracket
PN#0049-62
Core Support Bracket
PN#19-151
/16" Liquid Hose
#6 5
Liquid
Tube
(drier to
rad support)
Pressure Switch and harness,
Bag of O-rings and Mineral Oil Tube
Discharge
Tube
(condenser
to rad support)
ose
uc
#
ti o
81
3/3
Six #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws
Liquid
Tube
(condenser
to drier)
nH
Eleven #10 - 20x1/4" Screws
2" D
ischa
rge Hos
e
Drier
#10 1
/2"
S
Three Refrigerant Hoses
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28
DRIER AND CONDENSER PREPARATION. You can perform most of the
following steps on a clean flat surface like a workbench. Lay the condenser
down so that both hose connections are on the left side (the larger connection
will be on top). The drier is conveniently mounted on the left hand side of the
condenser. First insert the drier into the drier mounting bracket (it’s basically a
sleeve for the drier). Attach the drier liquid tube to the drier and also to the
connection on the condenser (tighten connections at either
end using supplied o-rings on both ends and a few drops of
mineral oil to each o-ring). With these two components
combined it will easy to find the correct place to attach the
drier bracket to the condenser with the included #10-20 x
Two
#10 - 20x1/4"
1/4” screws (attach drier and bracket from the front of the
Screws
condenser).
PRESSURE SWITCH: Screw the high-pressure switch into
the port on the top of the drier. Go ahead and plug the
pressure switch harness into the switch at this time (black
electrical boot with two long white wires).
Fit brackets with #10 - 20x1/4" Screws, fitted loosely into the
top two holes of the condenser, both sides
Pressure
Switch
BRACKETS: Install the upper condenser bracket using four
#10 - 20 x 1/4“ screws in the top two holes on each side.
Next, attach the lower brackets using the bottom two holes,
with the same size screws. These brackets have a bend that
will face away from you.
Fit brackets with #10 - 20x1/4" Screws, fitted loosely into the
top two holes of the condenser, both sides
TECH TIPS
Reminder...
Use two
wrenches to
tighten o-ring
fittings
TECH TIPS
You can easily find the
correct position for mounting
the drier to the condenser by
using the drier liquid tube as
a gauge.
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29
Remove the hood latch assembly. Retain original
hardware. Slide condenser assembly down in front of the
radiator.
Discharge Tube
Locate condenser in the center of
the radiator. Attach top condenser
brackets to the bulkhead using (2)
#10 Tek screws.
Two #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws
Located behind the air damn and at
the lower radiator bulkhead, attach
the lower condenser brackets using
(2) # 10 Tek screws.
Reinstall hood latch assembly using
original hardware.
Liquid Tube
Locate the Liquid tube, Discharge tube, (1) #6 o-ring,
and (1) #8 o-ring. Attach Liquid tube to the drier using the #6
o-ring and a few drops of mineral oil. Attach Discharge tube to the
condenser using #8 o-ring and a few drops of mineral oil.
Two #10 - 16 x 3/4" Tek Screws
(upward from bottom)
Locate the tube support bracket, the tube clamp, and (2)
#10 x ¾” tek screws, and (1) #10 x ½” hex head screw.
Attach the support bracket to the radiator bulkhead using (2) #10 x
¾” tek screws.
Attach liquid and discharge tubes using the tube clamp, using (1)
#10 x ½” screw.
Two #10 - 16x3/4"
Tek Screws
#10 - 20x1/4"
Screw
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Time to install the compressor kit. Included in your box is a premium
compressor kit with all the parts you’ll need to install the compressor. This kit
includes instructions specifically written for your engine. Once you’ve installed
the complete compressor kit, continue on to connecting the hoses.
#6 H
ose
#10 Hose
#8 Hose
CO
COMMPLETE
PRES
KIT SOR
CONNECTING THE HOSES:
1) Attach the #8 Discharge Hose (13/32") from the connection under the core
support and route to the compressor. Tighten fittings using o-rings and mineral
oil provided.
2) Attach the #6 liquid hose (5/16") from the connection under the core support
connection at the firewall on the evaporator unit (see figure 41). Tighten fittings
using o-rings and mineral oil supplied in kit.
Passenger Side Compresssor
#6 H
ose
#10 Hose
#8 Hose
3) Attach the #10 suction hose (1/2”) to the compressor and route as mentioned
above. Tighten fittings using o-rings and mineral oil supplied in the kit.
Drivers Side Compresssor
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31
Connect the pressure switch by first connecting one wire to the connection on
the compressor, and the other wire will be routed along with the liquid hose and
connected to the blue lead you put thru the firewall during the interior installation
(for attachment route. We’ve included a bullet and slice connector to make these
connections, use a crimp tool to secure these properly.
FINAL STEPS: Take a look around at your installation and check all fittings and
bolts for tightness, check the heater hose clamps for tightness, and make sure
nothing is routed in a way to obstruct any moving parts. You can refill the
radiator and reconnect the battery at this time.
WAY TO GO! You’ve just completed the installation of your new A/C system.
The very final step is to fully charge and test your new system.
On the next page you’ll find specifications for proper final preparation
for your A/C technician.
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32
New A/C System Preparation
Please read thru these procedures before completing this new A/C system charging
operation. A licensed A/C technician should be utilized for these procedures to insure that
your new system will perform at it’s peak, and that your compressor will not be damaged.
1) Your radiator/cooling system is an integral part of your new system. Please insure that you
have a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. The heater coil MUST be purged
(cycle heater control valve) to make sure no water, without antifreeze, is in the heater coil
before you charge the A/C system.
2) Evacuate the system for 45 minutes (minimum).
3) Your new compressor MUST be hand-turned 15-20 revolutions before and after
charging with liquid. Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged (this
damage is NOT covered by your warranty).
4) Your new system requires 134a refrigerant. It will require 1.5 lbs (or 24 oz).
5) Your new compressor comes charged with oil - NO additional oil is needed.
6) Insure that the new belt is tight.
7)
DO NOT CHARGE SYSTEM WITH LIQUID WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!
RECOMMENDED TEST CONDITIONS: (After system has been fully charged and tested for basic
operation)
• Determine the temperature outside of the car
• Connect gauges or service equipment to high/low charging ports
• Place blower fan switch on medium
• Close all doors and windows on vehicle
• Place shop fan directly in front of condenser
• Run engine idle up to approx. 1500 rpm
ACCEPTABLE OPERATING PRESSURE RANGES:
1. HIGH-SIDE PRESSURES (150-250 PSI)
2. LOW-SIDE PRESSURES (15-25 PSI in a steady state)
Centerline of the Oil Plug
90˚
90˚
CAUTION! When mounting your compressor
and/or adjusting the belt, use caution not to tilt the
compressor up to or more than 90˚ off the
centerline of the oil fill plug. This can cause
compressor failure.
Do not tilt, shake or turn
refrigerant can upside-down
OR use a charging station to
install refrigerant while the
engine is running. Doing so will
direct liquid refrigerant into the
compressor piston chamber, causing damage to
reed valves and/or pistons and/or other components, as
well as potentially seizing the compressor. Allow a
minimum of 30 minutes for liquid to "boil off.” You must
hand turn the compressor hub (not the pulley) a minimum
of 15 complete revolutions prior to starting the engine
with the clutch engaged.
Readings above are based on an ambient temperature of 90˚ with an adequate airflow on condenser
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33
Trouble Shooting Your Classic Auto Air A/C System
PROBLEM: system is not cooling properly
ISSUE: cold at idle, warmer when raising engine RPM’s
Make sure the Water Valve is positioned correctly
The water valve is a directional valve and should be installed with the arrow pointing
towards the water pump, it should be connected to the heater hose that runs from the
heater core to the water pump. If the water valve is connected to the incorrect hose it
allows water to circulate through the system via the heater core over powering the
cooling effect of the A/C coil, (normally the air conditioning is functioning properly).
Step 1: Check placement of the water valve, correct if needed. (In some cases
changing the location of the water valve may not fix the above problem.) Continue to
next step.
Step2 If changing the location of the water valve does not rectify the issue, then
possibly the water valve is permenatly damaged and may need to be replaced. To
check the integrity of the water valve completely remove the water hoses for the
heater core and “loop” together. (This will remove the heater system completely from
the possibilities) If the system now cools, replace the water valve
Verify Adequate Air Flow to Condenser
For an air condiitiong system to function properly there has to be adequate airflow
across the condenser. The function of the condenser is to disapate heat, without
proper airflow your system will not cool correctly in the cabin of your vehicle.
Step 1: connect gauges to a/c hoses. The pressures should be: with the ambient
temp is 90, low side pressures should be between 8-25 psi, high side pressures
should be between 160-260psi
Step 2: IF the low side pressures are normal and the high side pressures are high
then there might be an airflow issue, continue to next step.
3.
With car still in idle and gages attached, pour water down the front of the
condenser. What happens to the pressures?
If the paper is held in place you are at least getting some air flow. If the high side
decreases during test 2 & 3 then your condenser is not getting enough air which is
causing your system to not cool properly. To correct this issue you will need a more
powerful mechanical fan.
Step 3: Confirm correct Refrigerant charge in System
All of our systems should be charged with 24oz or 1.8lbs of R134 Refrigerant only. If
overcharged you will need to evacuate the system and recharge with the correct
amount.*
What measurements mean:
Low Temp and High Pressure seem to be equal...
You have a malfunctioning expansion valve that is stuck open.
High Side is extremely high and Low Side is extremely low (possibly into
vacuum)...
There is a blockage in the system. Remove hoses and blow compressed air through in
both directions. If pressures don’t change its possible that your expansion valve is
stuck closed and would have to be replaced.
*Compressor Concerns:
This is often misdiagnosed as a problem for the system not cooling properly. If you
have a noisy compressor it is due to improper charging of refrigerant. An overcharged
(more than 24oz or 1.8lbs R134) compressor can cause rattling. If charged with pure
liquid there is a high probability you have bent reed valves that are causing tapping
sound.
To test air flow to Condenser do the following three tests:
1. Place a piece of paper on the condenser with the car in idle and see if paper is
held in place.
2. With car in idle, attach gages, and place a large capacity fan in front of the
condenser. What happens to the pressures?
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34
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
TEST CONDITIONS USED TO DETERMINE SYSTEM OPERATION
(THESE TEST CONDITIONS WILL SIMULATE THE AFFECT OF DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND
GIVE THE TECHNICIAN THE THREE CRITICAL READINGS THAT THEY WILL NEED TO
DIAGNOSE ANY POTENTIAL PROBLEMS).
B. CONNECT GAUGES OR SERVICE EQUIPMENT TO HIGH/LOW
CHARGING PORTS.
C. PLACE BLOWER FAN SWITCH ON MEDIUM.
D. CLOSE ALL DOORS AND WINDOWS ON VEHICLE.
E. PLACE SHOP FAN IN FRONT OF CONDENSER.
F. RUN ENGINE IDLE UP TO 1500 RPM.
ACCEPTABLE OPERATING PRESSURE RANGES (R134A TYPE)
1. HIGH-SIDE PRESSURES ( 160-250 PSI ) *Note- general rule of thumb is
two times the ambient (daytime) temperature, plus 15-20%.
2. LOW-SIDE PRESSURES ( 06-22 PSI in a steady state).
CHARGE AS FOLLOWS: R134A = 24 OZ.
NO ADDITIONAL OIL IS NECESSARY IN OUR NEW COMPRESSORS.
TYPICAL PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED IN CHARGING SYSTEMS
NOISY COMPRESSOR. A noisy compressor is generally caused by charging a
compressor with liquid or overcharging
A. If the system is overcharged both gauges will read abnormally high readings.
This is causing a feedback pressure on the compressor causing it to rattle or
shake from the increased cylinder head pressures. System must be evacuated
and re-charged to exact weight specifications.
B. Heater control valve installation - Installing the heater control valve in the
incorrect hose. Usually when this occurs the system will cool at idle then start
to warm up when raising the RPM’s of the motor. THE HEATER CONTROL IS
A DIRECTIONAL VALVE; MAKE SURE THE WATER FLOW IS WITH THE
DIRECTION OF THE ARROW. As the engine heats up that water transfers the
heat to the coil, thus overpowering the a/c coil. A leaking or faulty valve will
have a more pronounced affect on the unit’s cooling ability. Installing the valve
improperly (such as having the flow reversed) will also allow water to flow
through, thus inhibiting cooling. Check for heat transfer by disconnecting
hoses from the system completely. By running down the road with the hoses
looped backed through the motor, you eliminate the possibility of heat transfer
to the unit.
C. Evaporator freezing - Freezing can occur both externally and internally on
an evaporator core. External freeze up occurs when the coil cannot effectively
displace the condensation on the outside fins and the water forms ice (the
evaporator core resembles a block of solid ice), it restricts the flow of air that
can pass through it, which gives the illusion of the air not functioning. The
common cause of external freezing is the setting of the thermostat and the
presence of high humidity in the passenger compartment. All door and
window seals should be checked in the event of constant freeze-up. A
thermostat is provided with all units to control the cycling of the compressor.
D. Internal freeze up occurs when there is too much moisture inside the
system. The symptoms of internal freeze up often surface after extended
highway driving. The volume of air stays constant, but the temperature of the
air gradually rises. When this freezing occurs the low side pressure will drop,
eventually going into a vacuum. At this point, the system should be checked by
a professional who will evacuate the system and the drier will have to be
changed.
E. Inadequate airflow to condenser - The condenser works best in front of
the radiator with a large supply of fresh air. Abnormally high pressures will
result from improper airflow. Check the airflow requirements by placing a large
capacity fan in front of the condenser and running cool water over the surface.
If the pressures drop significantly, this will indicate the need for better airflow.
F. Incorrect or inadequate condenser capacity - Incorrect condenser
capacity will cause abnormally high head pressures. A quick test that can be
performed is to run cool water over the condenser while the system is
operating, if the pressures decrease significantly, it is likely a airflow or
capacity problem.
G. Expansion valve failure - An expansion valve failure is generally caused by
dirt or debris entering the system during assembly. If an expansion valve fails
it will be indicated by abnormal gauge readings. A valve that is blocked will be
indicated by high side that is unusually high, while the low side will be
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35
DRILL
7/8” DIA.
HOLE
1967-68 Factory Air
Template
DRILL
1 3/8” DIA.
HOLE
37
OEM HOLE
IN FIREWALL
DRILL
11/16” DIA.
DRAIN HOLE
OEM HOLE
IN FIREWALL
DRILL
9/32” DIA.
HOLE
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