Vermont Castings The Intrepid II 1990CE Specifications

Vermont Castings The Intrepid II 1990CE Specifications
The Intrepid II
Woodburning Stove
Model 1990CE
Installation and
Operating Manual
For use in Europe
Intrepid Cover
Safety Notice: If this appliance is not properly installed, operated and maintained, a house fire may result.
To reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions. Failure to
follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury or even
death. Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation
inspection requirements in your area.
Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use
30003840 7/10 Rev. 7
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Congratulations on your choice of a Vermont Castings Intrepid II. With this purchase, you made a commitment to
make the hearth a place of warmth, beauty and comfort in your home. At MHSC, we share that joy and appreciation of
the hearth, and we show it in all our cast iron stoves and fireplaces.
As you become acquainted with your new stove, you will find the aesthetic appeal of cast iron is matched only by its
superb capacity to absorb and radiate heat.
Also, MHSC products are among the cleanest burning wood stoves and fireplaces available today. As an owner of
a MHSC stove, you are making a strong statement for pollution-free energy. But clean burning depends on both the
manufacturer and the operator. Please read this manual carefully to understand how to properly operate your stove.
At MHSC, we are equally committed to your satisfaction as a customer and that is why we maintain an exclusive
network of the finest dealers in the industry. Chosen for their expertise and dedication to customer service, our dealers are factory-trained and know each MHSC product in detail. Feel free to contact your Authorized Vermont Castings
Dealer anytime you have a question about your stove or its performance.
We have built your Vermont Castings Intrepid II with the utmost care. With normal use and proper care, it will provide
you with many years of service.
This manual contains valuable instructions on the installation and operation of your Vermont Castings stove. You will
also find useful information on assembly and maintenance procedures. We urge you to read the manual thoroughly
and to keep it as a reference.
All of us at MHSC
Save These Instructions For Future Reference
Table of Contents
Specifications..................................... 3
Installation.......................................... 4
Clearances......................................... 9
Assembly.......................................... 11
Operation.......................................... 12
Draft Management............................ 18
Maintenance..................................... 20
Catalytic Combustor......................... 22
Replacement Parts........................... 27
Warranty........................................... 30
Ask your Vermont Castings dealer how these installation accessories can enhance the versatility, appearance, and safety of your Intrepid Stove.
0307 Bottom Heat Shield
0172 Rear Heat Shield
Chimney connector heat shields
Heavy-gauge enamel pipe to match the
Warming shelves
0098 Classic Black
1375 Suede Brown
1362 Sand
1376 Biscuit
1365 Green
1377 Chestnut Brown
1371 Bordeaux
1378 Ebony
1372 Midnight Blue
1379 Vt. Classic Gree
1373 Brown Majolica
0136 Spark screen for open-fireplace use
Short Legs
0868 Classic Black
1525 Suede Brown
1512 Sand
1527 Biscuit
1510 Green
1530 Chestnut Brown
1515 Bordeaux
1535 Ebony
1520 Midnight Blue
1537 Vt. Classic Green
3258 Outside air kit
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Intrepid II, Model 1990CE
Nominal heat output...............6.2 kW (21, 100 BTU/hr)1
Minimum flue draught.......................12 Pa (0.048” WG)
Mean flue gas temp............................... 337° C (639° F)
Efficiency (space heating)....................................72.8%
Area heated.................... Up to 112 sq. m (1200 sq. ft.)1
Fuel size/type..................................410 mm (16”) wood
Flue mass gas flow.............................................. 5.6 g/s
CO Emissions (@ 13% O2)............................ 2900 ppm
Loading........................................................ Front or top
Chimney connector..................... 152 mm (6”) diameter
Chimney flue size........................152 mm (6”) minimum
Flue exit position........................ Reversible, top or rear
Primary air.......Manual set, thermostatically maintained
Secondary air..........................................Self-regulating
Ash handling system...................... Removable ash pan
Glass panels..........................High temperature ceramic
Weight................................................. 101 kg (233 lbs.)
Width (leg-to-leg)................................... 545 mm (21¹⁄₂”)
Depth (leg-to-leg).................................. 350 mm (13³⁄₄”)
Height to top of flue collar:
with regular legs........................635 mm (25”) top exit
................................................ 610 mm (24”) rear exit
with optional short legs..............535 mm (21”) top exit
............................................. 500 mm (19³⁄₄”) rear exit
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove
is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel
used, as well as the design, construction and climatic
location of your home. Figures shown are based on
nominal fuel consumption obtained under laboratory
conditions and on average efficiencies.
510 mm (20")
545 mm
540 mm (2156M")
460 mm (18")
540 mm (2156M")
31 mm
610 mm
640 mm
520 mm
Top exit
flue collar
180 mm
545 mm (2156O")
350 mm (136M")
Fig. 1 Intrepid II 1990CE dimensions.
Intrepid EU
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
see that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far
enough from combustible material to meet all
clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is constructed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local authorities.
Your local building official is the final authority for approving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
every Vermont Castings stove indicates the stove has
been tested to current standards. The test standard
is EN13240:2001 + A2:2004 for Europe. Clearance
and installation information also is printed on the label.
When the stove is installed according to the information
both on the label and in this manual, local authorities
in most cases will accept the label as evidence that the
installation meets codes and can be approved.
However, codes vary in different countries. Before
starting the installation, review your plans with the local
building authority. You local dealer can provide any additional information needed.
Important: Failure to follow these installation
instructions may result in a dangerous situation, including a chimney or house fire. Follow all instructions exactly, and do not allow makeshift compromises to endanger property and personal safety.
All local regulations, including those referring to
national and European standards, need to be complied with when installing this stove.
Outside Air
In some modern, super-insulated homes, there is not
enough air for combustion because of insufficient air
infiltration into the building. Such air enters a home
through unsealed cracks and openings. Kitchen or bath
exhaust fans can compete with the stove for available
air and compound the problem.
When poor draft is caused by a low infiltration rate,
opening a ground floor window on the windward side
of the house and in the vicinity of the stove will usually
alleviate the problem.
Another solution is to install a permanent outside air
supply to the stove and/or room. In some areas, in
fact, bringing air for combustion from outside the home
directly to the air inlet of the stove is required for new
An outside air supply is not affected by pressure variations within the house, and improved stove performance often results. An Outside Air Adaptor Kit for the
Intrepid II is available from your local Vermont Castings
What Kind of Chimney to Use
Your Intrepid II must be connected to a code-approved
masonry chimney with a flue liner, to a relined masonry
chimney that meets local codes, or to a prefabricated
metal chimney. Whatever kind you use, the chimney
and chimney connector must be in good condition and
kept clean. Figure 2 shows the two chimney types.
A prefabricated
double-wall insulated chimney
A tile-lined masonry chimney
Fig. 2 Standard chimney types.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe
condition before the stove is
installed. Your localchimney
chimney sweep, builddjt
ing inspector, or fire12/13/99
official will be able to
inspect the chimney or provide a referral to someone
who can.
The flue and chimney design must meet requirement
J2, Part J of the building regulations 2000 (Combustion
Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Masonry Chimneys
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
should have no cracks, loose mortar, other signs of
deterioration, or blockage. Repair any defects before
using the chimney with your stove.
Seal any unused openings in an existing masonry chimney with masonry to the thickness of the chimney wall,
and repair the chimney liner. Openings sealed with pie
plates or wallpaper are a hazard; seal them with mortar
or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney fire,
flames and smoke may be forced out of these unused
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved masonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s
clean-out door must seal tightly.
Prefabricated Chimneys
These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)
and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has
been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of
ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 200 mm
(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-section causing excessive cooling of the flue gases.
Chimney Size
An Intrepid II is approved for venting into a masonry
chimney with a maximum flue size of 200 x 200 mm (8”
x 8”), and into a round flue size of 150 mm (6”).
It may not be vented into larger chimneys without a liner
to reduce the effective flue size to 150 mm (6”) diameter. Larger chimneys must have their flues relined for
proper stove performance.
Accessories to make the connection between stainless
steel chimney liners and your Intrepid II are available
through your local dealer.
Chimney Connector Guidelines
Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chimney is a masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the flue. Chimney connectors are used only to make
the connection from the stove to the chimney.
Connecting Flue Pipes
Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the
building regulations. This can be achieved by the use
connecting fluepipes included in the following categories:
a)Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS
6999: 1989 (1996);
b)Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS
EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.4432 or
1.4436 with flue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
c)Mild steel fluepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:
1991, with a flue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;
d)Cast iron fluepipes complying with BS 41: 1973
Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be
fitted with the socket facing upwards, to contain condensates and moisture within the flue. Joints should be
made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,
or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombustible rope and fire cement.
Double-wall chimney connectors must be tested and
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Single-wall chimney connectors should be made of 24
gauge or heavier steel, and should be 150 mm (6”) in
diameter. Do not use galvanized connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached by
smoke and gases, and may release toxic fumes under
high heat.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the section following on Wall Pass-Throughs. Do not pass the chimney
connector through an attic, a closet, or any similar concealed space. The whole connector should be exposed
and accessible for inspection and cleaning.
In horizontal runs of single-wall chimney connector
without protective shields, maintain a clearance of at
least 660 mm (26”) from the ceiling.
Keep the horizontal run of chimney connector as short
and direct as possible, with no more than two 90° turns.
Slope horizontal runs of connector upward 20 mm per
m (1/4” per foot) going from the stove toward the chimney. The recommended maximum length of a horizontal
run is 914 mm (36”). The recommended total length of
chimney connector is 2.4 m (8’).
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricated chimney down to within 2.4 m (8’) of the stove.
SAFETY NOTE: Always wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cutting or
joining sections of chimney connector.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Double-wall Chimney Connector
Information on assembling and installing double-wall
connector is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to
the stove and chimney. Using connectors and chimneys from the same manufacturer makes the assembly
and installation straightforward.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall connectors, minimum clearances must conform to the
listed clearances on Page 9.
Single-wall Chimney Connector
• Beginning at the flue collar of the stove, assemble
the chimney connector. Insert the first crimped end into
the stove’s flue collar, and
keep each crimped end
pointing toward the stove.
Using the holes in the
flue collar as guides, drill
3 mm (1/8”) holes in the
bottom of the first section
of chimney connector and
secure it to the flue collar
with three #10 x 1/2” sheet
metal screws.
• Secure each joint between sections of chimney
connector, including telFig. 3 The crimped end of
scoping joints, with at least the connector points toward
Chimney connector
three sheet metal screws.
12/13/99 djt
The pre-drilled holes in
the top of each section of
chimney connector serve as guides when you drill 3 mm
(1/8”) holes in the bottom of the next section.
• Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. Instructions for various installations follow.
• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector
are correct distances from nearby combustible material.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney connector are available to simplify installations. They often
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chimney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapters attaches directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adaptor is screwed to the chimney connector.
These adapters are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
When assembled in this way, any soot or creosote falling from the inner walls of the chimney will stay inside
the chimney connector.
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Masonry Chimney
For masonry chimneys, both freestanding and fireplace
chimneys may be used for installation of your Intrepid II.
Freestanding Chimney Installations
If the chimney connector must pass through a combustible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommendations in the Wall Pass-through section that follows.
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue (the
“breach”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal
cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is cemented firmly
in place. The fit must be snug and the joint between the
thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented. (Fig. 4)
Slip Pipe
Flue Collar
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Prefabricated Chimney
For prefabricated chimneys, follow the installation
instructions of the chimney maker exactly as you install
the chimney. The maker of the chimney will supply the
accessories to support the chimney, either from the roof
of the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove
is installed, or from an exterior wall.
Fig. 4 Chimney connection in a freestanding installation.
Intrepid II
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and most
thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer. (Fig.
Thimble Sleeve
with flue
Chimney Connector
* Check
These Clearances
Seal the
Fig. 5 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breach until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Do not extend it into
the actual flue passage, as this could interfere with the
thinble connection
The thimble sleeve should
25 - 50 mm (1-2”)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
Without a thimble, a suitable length of chimney connector can be extended through the breach to the inner
face of the flue liner, and cemented securely in place.
Additional pieces of connector are then attached with
sheet metal screws.
Fireplace Chimney Installations Above a Fireplace
The Intrepid II may be connected to a chimney above a
fireplace opening also. In such installations, the stove is
positioned on the hearth in front of the fireplace and the
chimney connector rises from the stove top and then
angles ninety degrees back into the chimney. (Fig. 6)
The chimney liner should extend to the point at which
the chimney connector enters the chimney.
If the chimney connector from your installation enters
the chimney above a fireplace, follow all the guidelines
mentioned above for freestanding installations. In addition, give special consideration to the following points:
Fig. 6 Chimney connector enters chimney above the fireplace.
• Check the clearance
between the chimney conPlymouth
nector and the ceiling.
If no heat shields are used, the
fplc over mantel
clearance should be 12/99
at least 660 mm (26”). To find out
how much this clearance may be reduced with heat
shields, see the clearance chart on Page 14.
• The fireplace damper must be sealed to prevent
room air from escaping up the flue. However, it must be
possible to re-open the damper to inspect or clean the
Fireplace Chimney Installations Through a Fireplace
If your fireplace height is at least 635 mm (25”), you
may install an Intrepid II with standard legs through
the fireplace opening using a “positive connection” kit
available from your local dealer. These positive connection kits ensure a tight fit between the stove flue collar
and the chimney flue. (Fig. 7) Fireplace installations,
whether connected to the flue above or through the fireplace opening, have special clearance requirements to
adjacent trim and the mantel. You will find the required
clearances for the Intrepid II fireplace installations on
Page 9.
Floor protection requirements also apply to fireplace
installations. Floor protection information is on Page 8.
• Check the clearance between the stove and the
chimney connector, and any combustible trim or the
mantel. Use the necessary combination of mantel, trim,
and connector heat shields to achieve the required
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
460 mm (18”) clearance all
around the pipe
Flexible Connector
Flush Mounted
Sheet Metal
Mantel Shield
Fireplace Adaptor Kit
Fig. 8 An approved wall pass-through.
Fig. 7 Chimney connector enters chimney through the fireplace opening.
Wall Pass-Throughs
Whenever possible, design
your installation so the conflex connector
nector does not pass through
12/99 a combustible wall. If you
are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,
check with your building inspector before you begin.
Also, check with the chimney connector manufacturer
for any specific requirements.
Accessories are available for use as wall passthroughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.
The following illustration shows one method of passing a connector througha wall. All combustible material
in the wall is cut away to provide the required 460 mm
(18”) clearance for the connector. The resulting space
must remain empty. A flush-mounted sheet metal cover
may be used on one side only. If covers must be used
on both sides, each cover must be mounted on noncombustible spacers at least 25 mm (1”) clear of the wall.
Your local dealer or your local building inspector can
provide details for other approved methods of passing
a chimney connector through a combustible wall in your
Do not connect AN INTREPID II to any air
distribution duct or system.
This appliance must besteel
installed on to hearth that
pass J
meets the requirementswall
of Part
of the Building Regu11/00
lations 2000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage
Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the
hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the
guidelines included in section 2 of approved document
‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as follows:
The constructed hearth should be constructed in accordance with the recommendations in document J,
and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum
depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or
a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a
recessed hearth a) above).
Wood framing requires
protection from radiant heat
Fig. 9 Supporting timbers under fireplace hearth are considered to be combustible.
Rear exit floor dgrm
12/14/99 djt
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Costructional Hearth
Dimensions as below
At least 150 mm
or to a suitable
heat resistant wall
Hearth Surface
Free of Combustible Material
At least
150 mm
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
At least
300 mm
a) Fireplace recess
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
b) Free standing
Fig. 10 Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.
Floor Protection for Fireplace Installations
Do not assume your fireplace hearth is completely
Many fireplace hearths do not satisfy the “completely
noncombustible” requirement because the brick or
concrete in front of the fireplace opening is supported
by heavy wood framing as in Figure 9. Because heat
passes through brick or concrete readily, it can easily
pass through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace
hearths can be a fire hazard and are considered a combustible floor.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend
less than the required clearance from the front of the
heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufficient
floor protection as described above must be added in
front of the hearth to satisfy the minimum floor protector
requirement from the front of the stove: 406 mm (16”)
from the front. Fireplace hearths must also offer the
required protection of 152 mm (6”) on either side.
Optional 76 mm (3”) short legs may be used only on
such hearths that meet the width and depth requirements outlined previously under “floor protection.”
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
Fireplace installations also have special clearance
requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and
fireplace mantle. Refer to the information on fireplace
and mantel trim shields in this section.
Keep the Stove a Safe Distance from
Surrounding Materials
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating, and dangerous overheating of nearby combustible materials can occur if they
are too close to the heat. A safe installation requires
that adequate clearance be maintained between the
hot stove and its connector and nearby combustibles.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove
(measured from the back edge of the stove’s top plate)
or chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the
ceiling, and any other fixed combustible surfaces. In
addition, furnishings and other combustible materials
must be kept away from the stove as well. In general, a
distance of 1220 mm (48”) must be maintained between
the stove and moveable combustible items such as drying clothes, furniture, newspapers, firewood, etc. Keeping those clearance areas empty assures that nearby
surfaces and objects will not overheat.
As with any solid fuel heating stove, extremely high
surface temperatures can occur, particularly in the
event of uncontrolled operation, e.g. if the doors
are inadvertently left open. It is crucial that sufficient clearances are allowed to any combustible
surfaces, e.g. wooden mantels or lintels, and to
timber framed (studded) walls even if they are faced
with noncombustible board. Detailed information
on fireplace and hearth construction is provided
in section 2 of Document J, all installations must
comply with these requirements or with the relevant
National or local building standards.
Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are included below. There are no specific minimum clearances
to solid noncombustible surfaces (e.g. the sides and
rear of Inglenook fire openings constructed from solid
masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls
of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances
of 125 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm
are recommended.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Summary of Clearances
Minimum recommended side clearances to noncombustible surfaces 125 mm (5”).
Minimum recommended rear clearance to noncombustible surfaces 50 mm (2”).
NOTE: The minimum thickness of solid noncombustible materials is specified in section 2 of Document ‘J’,
in relation to the clearance of the appliance from the
surface. As a general rule, the thickness of solid noncombustible material forming the recess of a fireplace is
a minimum of 200 mm.
Minimum rear clearance from combustible walls
(e.g. timber framed or studded walls) 610 mm (24”)
measured from the rear edge of the stove top. (Fig.
11, B)
Minimum side clearance from combustible walls
610 mm (24”) measured from the side edge of the
stove top. (Fig. 11, A)
Minimum distance from stove to movable combustible materials (e.g. furniture, drying clothes, etc.)
760 mm (30”).
at least
Fig. 11 Minimum clearances.
Connecting Flue Pipe - Clearances
Single wall connecting
fluepipes can reach extremely
high temperatures; therefore,
from the conDefiantclearances
necting fluepipe (chimney connector) must comply with
the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 2000
(Combustion Appliances
and Fuel Storage Systems).
This can be achieved10/06
by following the recommendations of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in
Figure 12.
at least 3 x D
at least
1.5 x D
3 lea
x st
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
Plan Without
With Shield
Air space of at least 12 mm
between noncombustible shield
and combustible material
Plan With
Fig. 12 Connecting fluepipe clearances.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Clean the Griddle Before Use
At the factory the griddle is coated with vegetable oil to
prevent rusting while the stove is in transit and storage.
Remove the oil with a dry rag or paper towel before you
use the stove.
Set Up the Stove
Remove any loose parts from inside the stove. Place a
protective pad on the floor, arrange some sections of 4
x 4 lumber on the pad for support, and carefully tip the
stove onto them, on its back.
Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws
from the stove bottom (Fig. 13) and install the stove
legs, using the hex head bolts from the parts bag. Use
3/8” washers with three of the legs; the door/damper
handle holder installs in place of a washer on the right
front leg. Position the holder so the hole to accept the
handle nub faces out from the right side of the stove.
Tighten the bolts firmly.
Fig. 14 Attach bottom heat shield.
the Handle
Use the removable handle
open or close the front
doors, or to change the
position of the damper. After
using it, remove it so it11/00
won’t get hot, and store it in the
handle holder installed behind the right front leg. (Fig.
Door Handle Holder
Bottom Heat Shield
Fig. 13 Remove the slotted screws from the stove bottom.
Install the Bottom Heat Shield
A bottom heat shield must beST513
used unless the stove is
to be situated on a completely
leg bolts
such as unpainted concrete over earth. To install the
bottom heat shield, loosen the
leg bolts, and slip the
bottom heat shield C-clips onto the bolts. Attach the
bottom heat shield to the C-clips with the wing nuts, and
tighten the leg bolts. Align the shield as shown in Figure
Wing Bolt
Fig. 15 Handle holder and heat shield positions.
Reversing the Flue Collar
You can reverse the flue collar by removing the two
screws that attach the collar to the back of the stove.
Bottom heat shield
(Fig. 16) Be sure the&gasket
clips around the flue collar
opening is in position
you screw the collar back
on to the stove.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Flue Collar Screws
Your Intrepid II’s Controls and
What They Do
The stove has two controls to regulate performance: a
primary air control supplies oxygen for the fire, and a
damper directs air flow within the stove to activate and
deactivate the catalytic combustor.
Fig. 16 Reversing the flue collar.
the Griddle Handle
Install the handle flue
on the
griddle. Place the griddle
upside down at the
of a flat
djt surface and assemble
the handle as shown. (Fig. 17)
With the handle pointing 45° from its final position,
tighten the nut as far as possible with pliers. Move the
handle to its final position while still holding the nut with
the pliers. Take care not to overtighten, as tab may
Additional air for catalytic combustion is regulated automatically, and does not require operator control.
Symbols cast into the stove are reminders of the correct
directions for opening and closing the controls. In these
directions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ assume that you are facing
the front of the stove.
A Single Air Control Regulates the
Amount of Heat the Fire Will Produce and
How Long it Will Burn
The primary air control lever, located at the right rear
corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming air
for starting, maintaining, and reviving a fire. More air
entering the stove makes the fire burn hotter and faster,
while less air prolongs the burn at a lower heat level.
For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output
(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the left.
For a fire that will last longer with less heat, move the
lever to the right. You can set the lever anywhere in
between the left and right extremes. (Fig. 19)
The Intrepid II features an automatic thermostat to ensure an even heat output at any setting you select. The
thermostat senses the heating and cooling of the stove
surface and adjusts the air shutter accordingly.
High Heat
Fig. 17 Attaching the griddle handle.
Low Heat
Air Control Lever
Attach Damper Handle
griddle handle
11/17/00 djtDoor Handle
Rear View
Fig. 19 The thermostat handle may be positioned anywhere
between the two extremes for different heat levels.
Ash Pan
Door Handle
(Behind Leg)
Fig. 18 The Intrepid II controls.
Intrepid II
11/20/00 djt
Intrepid II
11/17/00 djt
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
A Damper Directs Air Flow
Within the Stove
The damper handle opens and closes the damper to
direct air flow within the stove, and is next to, and to the
right of, the primary air control lever on the right side of
the stove. (Fig. 20)
When the handle points to the floor, the damper is
open, letting smoke pass directly into the chimney. The
damper must be open when starting or reviving a fire,
and whenever the griddle or doors are opened.
Your stove has andirons to keep logs away from the
glass panels. The andirons are important to maintain
clear fireviewing and should be removed only while
reloading through the front doors.
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing the andirons,
and place them on a noncombustible surface until you
replace them in the stove. Most stove owners will prefer
the convenience of top loading through the griddle, and
will leave the andirons in place permanently.
When the handle points to the front, the damper is
closed. Smoke from the fire travels through the catalytic
combustion system where it can burn further for greater
efficiency, before passing up the chimney.
The damper has no intermediate positions. Figure 28
shows the handle’s open and closed positions.
When closing the damper, push firmly and snap it
into the locked position to ensure that the stove
remains in the catalytic mode.
Side View
(Updraft Mode)
Fig. 21 Remove the andirons for front loading.
The Intrepid II’s griddle lifts for convenient top-loading
of logs, and is the easiest
way of regularly adding fuel.
However, the front doors open as well for adding an oc11/20/00 djt
casional log to a fire. (Fig. 22)
Two Ways to Add Fuel
You can open (or even remove) the front doors and
place the optional Intrepid II spark screen in the front
opening for open-fire viewing.
(Catalytic Mode)
Fig. 20 The damper is either open or closed. There are no
intermediate positions.
Glass Door Panels
The glass panels
in the doors
II have a heat-reflective
coating on the outside surface. Heat reflected back to
the inside of the glass helps keep the inner surface at
a higher temperature
than thedjt
outside. In combination
with pre-heated primary combustion air ‘washing’ over
the inside of the glass, this helps provide clear fireviewing at most operating levels.
Fig. 22 Top loading is the best way to add fuel during regular
use. Front loading
is useful for kindling a fire.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
WARNING: For safety and greatest efficiency, operate your stove only with all doors/griddles fully
closed. The test standard for your stove when it is
operated in this mode is UL 1482.
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, commonly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,
white pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood. These
too should be properly dried.
Your stove may be used as a fireplace with the front
doors open or removed only when the spark screen
is placed correctly in the opening to protect against
the possibility of sparks and embers leaving your
stove. The test standard for your stove when it is
operated in this mode is UL 737.
Store firewood under cover to keep it dry. Dry, well-seasoned wood is best for heating and fire-viewing. However, avoid wood dried more than two years. This wood
burns very quickly, reducing burn time.
Use only the Intrepid II spark screen, part #0136,
with your Intrepid II.
Intrepid II spark screens are available from your
Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.
To open the front doors, insert the handle into the door
latch stub and turn it to the left and up. To close them,
always close the left door first. Turn the handle in the
right door to the left and up (to the open position) and
close the door. Push on the door as you turn the handle
to the right and down. The doors will draw in slightly,
and the handle should offer some resistance as you
turn it to the closed position. (Fig. 23)
Avoid striking the glass or slamming the doors to reduce the risk of breaking the glass.
When you’re not using the door handle, store it in the
holder behind the right front leg of the stove.
Even for short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance
from the heater and keep it out of the areas around the
heater used for refueling and ash removal.
A Surface Thermometer is a Valuable
Guide to Operation
An optional surface thermometer tells you when to
adjust the air control, when to refuel, and helps to tell
when your catalyst is operating properly.
For example, when the thermometer registers at least
230° C (450° F) after start-up you know the stove is
hot enough to begin catalytic combustion and it may be
time to close the damper.
Place the thermometer in the center of the griddle, as in
Figure 24, and use the following temperature ranges as
a guide to operation:
When thermometer readings drop below 175° C
(350° F) it’s time to adjust the air control for a higher
burn rate or to reload the stove.
• A temperature reading over 400° C (750° F) is a sign
to cut back on the air supply to slow the burn rate.
• Readings in the 150-200° C (300-400° F) range
indicate low to medium heat output.
• Readings of 260-340° C (500-650° F) indicate high
heat output. Operating your Intrepid II continuously
at griddle temperatures of 400° C (750°F) or higher
may damage inner parts or the enamel finish.
Fig. 23 To open the front doors, turn handle clockwise.
Burn Only High-Quality
The Intrepid II is designed to burn
wood only; do
not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.
Fig. 24 Take temperature readings with a thermometer located in the middle of the griddle.
You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that
has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood
should be 410 mm (16”) in length.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and airdried outside under cover for at least one year.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Use the Air Control Settings
that Work Best for You
No single air control setting will fit every situation. Settings will differ depending on the quality of the fuel, the
amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the fire
to burn.
The control setting also depends on your particular
installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the Intrepid II, and could even damage the combustor.
On the other hand, too little draft can cause backpuffing
into the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney or
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrollable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inadequate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the
stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty
In some newer homes that are well-insulated and
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air
in the house. In such instances, an open window near
the stove on the windward side of the house will provide
the fresh air needed.
Another option for getting more combustion air to the
stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to the stove.
In fact, in some areas provisions for outside combustion
air are required in all new construction.
Your Intrepid II will accept a duct carrying outside air for
When first using the stove, keep track of the air control
settings. You will quickly find that a specific setting will
give you a fixed amount of heat. It may take some time
to determine the amount of heat and the length of burn
you should expect from various settings. Please read
the Draft Management section beginning on Page 18
for more information on how installation features affect
Most installations do not require a large amount of combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing
of your heater by altering the air control adjustment
range outlined in these directions.
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to help determine the best settings for your installation.
Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the
lever may be moved from right to left.
Intrepid II Control Settings
Burn Rate­­­­­­­­­ Low
Primary Air Control From far right to 1/3 the distance to left
From 1/3 to 2/3
the distance to left
From 2/3 the distance
to left to far left
Before you start using the stove, please read the Draft
Management section starting on Page 18 to see how
the features of your installation will affect the stove’s
performance. You and the stove are parts of a system,
and other parts of the system have a strong effect on
operation; you may need to vary your firing technique to
get the performance you want.
How to Build a Wood Fire
and Keep it Going
An Intrepid II leaves the factory with the combustor
In the United States, it is against the law to operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic combustor
is deactivated or removed.
High-Efficiency Wood Burning
with Catalytic Combustion
The catalytic combustion system in your Intrepid II
produces the best conditions for secondary combustion.
When the stove damper is closed, smoke goes through
the catalytic element, burning at temperatures of
260-315° C (500-600° F), half the temperature normally
needed for unaided secondary combustion.
The catalytic element is a ceramic “honeycomb” coated
with a noble metal, usually platinum. The element is in
the secondary combustion chamber, made of a special high-temperature insulating refractory material.
The chamber provides the correct environment necessary for secondary combustion of the fuel (smoke).
Closing the damper may also reduce draft. Closing the
damper too soon may put out the fire or deactivate the
combustor. Close the damper only when the fire is well
established. When starting a fire, wait until there is an
ember bed of at least 76 - 102 mm (3-4”) before closing
the damper.
Never kindle a fire with colored paper or paper that
has colored ink or a glossy surface, and never burn
treated wood, garbage, solvents, or trash. All of these
may poison the catalyst and prevent it from operating
properly. Never burn cardboard or loose paper except
for kindling purposes. Never burn coal; doing so can
produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
coat the combustor and cause smoke to spill into the
room. Coal smoke also can poison the catalyst so that it
won’t operate properly.
In general, the fire must be sufficiently well-established
to ensure catalytic activity is initiated. When first starting
a fire, maintain a medium- to high- firing rate for at least
twenty minutes. This ensures the stove, catalyst, and
fuel are all stabilized at the proper operating temperatures. This may be long enough to warm the chimney
well enough to support a good draft; some installations
may need more time. Please read the Draft Management information starting on Page 23 to see if your
installation has features that may require more time to
warm up.
Even though it is possible for the fire to get quite hot
within a few minutes, the combustor may stop working
or the fire may go out if the fire is allowed to die down
immediately as a result of closing the damper. Once the
combustor starts working, heat generated by burning
the smoke will keep it working.
To determine whether the combustor is operating, observe the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when
the damper is activated and when it is not. This procedure is described on Page 27.
Conditioning Your Stove
Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with
a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock
of rapid and extreme temperature change.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in
temperature. When you first begin using your Intrepid II,
minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust
gradually during three or four initial break-in fires following Steps 1-3 below.
Starting and Maintaining a Wood Fire
Burn solid wood fuel only in the Intrepid II, and burn it
directly on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not
burn coal or other fuels.
The damper must be open when starting a fire or
when refueling.
1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air
control fully.
2. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper in the
stove. Do not use glossy advertisements or colored
paper, as they can poison the catalyst. Place on the
paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a
finger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 25 - 50
mm (1-2”) in diameter. (Fig. 25)
Fig. 25 Start the fire with newspaper and dry kindling.
never use gasoline-type lantern
fire fluid, or similar
fuel, kerosene,starting
liquids to start12/99
or “freshen up” a fire. Keep all such
liquids well away from the Intrepid II while it is in
3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradually build up the fire by adding a few 76 - 127 mm
(3-5”) diameter splits. If this is one of the first few
“break-in” fires, let the fire burn brightly, and
then let it die out.
During the break-in fires, don’t let the stove get hotter than 260° C (500° F) as measured on an optional
stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control lever
as necessary to control the fire. Some odor from the
stove’s hot metal, the paint, and the cement is normal
for the first few fires.
NOTE: Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to start
a fire. To correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces
of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and
toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the
doors. This should heat the chimney enough to initiate
a draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the
main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and
repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial
attempt is unsuccessful.
4. If your Intrepid II has been broken-in previously
using Steps 1-3, continue to build the fire gradually.
Add larger wood with a diameter of 76 - 102 mm (34”). (Fig. 26)
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Fig. 26 Add larger pieces of wood as the fire begins to burn
Fig. 27 Add full size logs when the ember bed is 3” (75mm)
CAUTION: The Intrepid II will be hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away.
Contact may cause
skin burns.
Continue adding split logs of this size to the brisklyburning fire until there is a glowing ember bed at
least 76 mm (3”)
deep. A good ember bed is necessary for propergood
fire of the catalytic system
and may take 12/99
an hour or more to establish.
5. Close the damper when the griddle temperature
reaches 230° C (450° F).
6. Adjust the air control for your desired heat output.
Refuel While the Embers are Still Hot
Reload the Intrepid II while it is still hot and there are
plenty of glowing embers to re-kindle the fire. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to
help the stove rebuild its operating temperature quickly.
Wear stove gloves, and follow this procedure when you
reload your stove:
1. Open the thermostat lever.
2. Open the damper.
3. Check the ash level in the ash pan; empty, if necessary, and replace the pan.
4. Open the griddle.
5. Position the charcoal in the middle of the firebox
(Fig. 41)then load wood — smaller, split pieces first.
Increase the amount of fuel you load into the stove
as you become familiar with your stove and the
heating needs of your home.
NOTE: If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick
and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is possible to add
fresh fuel (smaller pieces first), close the door and
damper, and reset the primary air thermostat for the
desired heat output.
Do not break the charcoal into very small pieces or
pound or compress the charcoal bed.
It is important that air can circulate under the wood for
the fire to be quickly revived.
WARNING: Operate your Intrepid II only with the
doors either fully open or fully closed.
add THIS
Overfiring may
cause a house fire,
or can result in permanent damage
to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If any part
of the Intrepid II glows, you are overfiring.
Ash Disposal
Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.
Check the level at least once a day, and before each
re-fueling. If the ash is close to the top edge of the pan,
empty it according to this procedure:
1. Open the damper.
2. Open the front doors fully.
3. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the stove
by its handle.
4. Remove the ash pan and properly dispose of the
ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level during disposal.
5. Return the ash pan to the stove.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Intrepid II; if you burn more wood at
higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.
Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a metal
container with a tight-fitting lid. Put the closed container
of ash on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final
disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or
otherwise locally dispersed, keep it in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can
use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.
CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum
cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove
and dispose of the ash properly.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Draft Management
A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,
the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The bigger the temperature difference, the
stronger the draft. As the smoke rises from the chimney
it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls air into the stove
for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with the stove’s air inlet
fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk fire, supported
only by air entering the stove through the normal inlet,
indicates a good draft. The stove’s air inlet is passive;
it regulates how much air can enter the stove, but it
doesn’t move air into it.
Depending on the features of your installation - steel or
masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched
to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may
warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and
operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts
the amount of air getting into the firebox, the chimney
must keep the smoke warm all the way to the outdoors.
Some chimneys do this better than others. Here’s a list
of features and their effects.
Masonry Chimney
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
It’s often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain an adequate draft.
Steel Chimney
Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps the
smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than masonry, so the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than a
masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good looks of
masonry, but it performs much better.
Indoor/Outdoor location
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s
best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house
as insulation for the flue and allows a little heat release
into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat to
the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to get
it warm and keep it warm.
Flue sizing
The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove
should match the size of the stove’s flue outlet. When a
chimney serves an airtight, more is not better; in fact, it
can be a disadvantage. Hot gases cool off through expansion; if we vent a stove with a 152 mm (6”) flue collar
{181 sq. cm (28 sq. in.) area} into a 254 x 254 mm (10”
x 10”) flue, the gases expand to over three times their
original size. This cools the gases, which weakens draft
strength. If an oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the outdoor air
and the flue usually stays cool.
It’s common for a masonry flue, especially one built for
a fireplace, to be oversized for an airtight stove. It can
take quite a while to warm up such a flue, and the results can be disappointing. The best solution to an oversized flue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same
diameter as the stove or insert’s flue outlet; the liner
keeps the smoke at its original volume, and the result is
a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- the liner keeps the smoke restricted to its original size,
but the smoke still must warm up the air around the
liner. This makes the warm-up process take longer.
Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every turn the smoke must take in its travel from the
stove to the chimney top will slow it down. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove,
to a completely straight chimney. If you’re starting
from scratch, use this layout if possible. If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the thimble
about midway between the stove top and the ceiling.
This achieves several goals: it lets the smoke speed up
before it must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for
heat transfer, and it gives you long-term flexibility for
installing a taller stove without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for long
Single Venting
Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own flue. If an airtight
stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open fireplace, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft
to pull air in through those channels than it is to pull air
through the airtight, and performance suffers. Imagine
a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the effect here. In some cases the other appliance can even
cause a negative draft through the airtight, and result in
a dangerous draft reversal.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an
organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense in
the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than
130° C (290° F). Condensed creosote is volatile, and
can generate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the
features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote
condensation - so use whatever combination of installation features and operational steps that will encourage
good draft and minimize creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is
one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense
to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for
safety reasons as well as performance. Consult a qualified installer and check local and national codes for
recommended chimney size.
Even the best stove installation will not perform well
with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has airdried 12-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as
hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of
moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential
is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood.
This reduces the amount that reaches your home and
can contribute to a creosote problem. There are moisture meters available for firewood; you can also judge
your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it
green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can
lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at
the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.
The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier
it is.
Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But
with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood
can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote
in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly
and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.
If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane
torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is
seriously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a
ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures
than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst
can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than
you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or
overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to
slow the fire down.
Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile
gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of
the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re
dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove
back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the
smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into
the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. Run your
stove with enough primary air so that you always see
lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is
inefficient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the
Draft Testing
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the
stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow
stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of
the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Results are not always instant; you may need to wait a few
minutes for a change in the air control setting to have
an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft
isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and
you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the
fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you
keep track of your burning habits and relate them to
their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded
with good performance and a safe system.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;
a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.
Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to
prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competition between the stove and other equipment that sends
indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment
like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney
draws well with all other equipment turned off (or
sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves),
then you simply need to be careful with timing the use
of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby
window or door to enable the chimney to draw well,
that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake
to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont
Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove
to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
In many cases, local or national codes require the
installation of permanently open air vents, particularly
with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these
codes to determine specific requirements for your
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the
stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user
can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve
good results. If you keep track of your burning habits
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation,
you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Let the fire in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any maintenance
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Intrepid looking new.
The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,
clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,
touch up the stove with high temperature stove paint.
Apply the paint sparingly, and keep in mind that two
light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.
4. Install the glass. Lay the glass on the inner gasket
with the coated side down (toward the outside of
the door). Tighten the screws snugly, but loose
enough to allow for a little movement of the glass
when the stove is in operation. Overtightening can
crack the glass immediately or cause it to crack if it
is unable to expand when hot.
Care of Porcelain Enamel Finish
Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove
spills or stains. For difficult jobs that require a cleaning
agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish
recommended for use on enamel surfaces.
Cleaning the Glass
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
during hot fires. However, the ash residue that accumulates on the glass surface should be removed regularly
to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made
especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive
• Rinse the glass thoroughly.
• Dry the glass completely.
Glass Replacement
Replace glass only with Part no. 140-1156 right side
and 140-1157 left side glass panels. The glass panel
rests on a cushion provided by a rope gasket part no
1203556, and is held in place by clips. (Fig. 28) The
glass is IR coated on one side which is marked “THIS
1. Remove the door from the stove and place it on a
sturdy, level work surface. Use a towel to protect
the porcelain enamel finish.
2. Remove the retainer clips. (Two phillips head
screws on each clip.)
3. Inspect the gasket. If the window gasket is in good
condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace
it, use only Part No. 1203556. Be sure the channel
around the window opening is clean, and free of
Fig. 28 Door glass installation.
Check the Operation of the
Primary Air Shutter
The primary air shutter is visible from the back of the
stove. The shutter must open and close freely when
glass replacement
you move the thermostat lever. If it does not, check for
any obstruction,
or for a bound or stretched chain need11/00(Fig. 29)
ing adjustment.
On a cold stove the shutter should be open no more
than 1/8” (3mm) when the primary air control lever is
pushed completely to the left (closed), as seen from the
back of the stove. When the lever is pushed completely
to the right (open), the shutter should be open to an
angle of approximately 70° from the stove back.
The ball chain should measure 216 mm (8¹⁄₂”) from
connection to the thermostat coil to connection on the
primary air flap.
If setting is incorrect, the thermostat coil may be bent or
broken. Call your Vermont Castings Dealer for assistance.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Tighten the Damper Handle as Needed
Thermostat Lever
The damper handle is attached to the damper rod
with a set screw bearing against a flat spot on the rod.
Check the set screw periodically for tightness; tighten
as needed.
Damper Adjustment
When the stove damper is closed, the pressure of the
rod against the damper plate assures a good seal between the damper and the damper housing. Adjustment
may be needed after a period of time to retain adequate
Primary Air Shutter
Fig. 29 The primary air shutter must move freely.
How to Adjust the Door Latch
Over time, the gasketing
around the doors will comST524
press, and the latch may
need adjustment.
To adjust
the latch, loosen the small locking nut, extend the
primary air shutter
striker screw one turn while keeping the striker screw
from turning. (Fig. 30)11/22/00
Keep makingdjt
adjustments a little
at a time until the setting is right.
The front doors of the stove should close securely and
tightly, when the handle is in the closed position. When
the latch is properly adjusted there should be a slight
resistance as the doors are moved to the completely
closed position.
To make this adjustment, start with the damper in the
closed and locked position. (Fig. 31) Loosen the 7/16”
locking nut in the center of the damper. Use a 1/8” Allen
wrench to turn the Allen screw a full turn clockwise. Test
the damper for snugness, and continue adjusting the
Allen screw as needed. Tighten the 7/16” locking nut
when the damper operates smoothly but firmly.
Thermostat Cover
Damper Actuator
Small Locking Nut
Locking Nut
Striker Screw
Allen Head Adjustment Screw
Fig. 31 Tighten the damper adjustment screw for a snug
Large Locking Nut
damper adj
Set Screw
Handle Stub
Fig. 30 Turn the door latch striker screw in or out to tighten or
loosen the door latch.
Door Pawl
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
The Catalytic Combustion System
Inspection and Cleaning
This wood heater includes a catalytic combustor, which
needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper
operation. In the United States, it is against the law to
operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with
the operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
Under normal operating conditions the catalytic element
should remain active for two to six years (depending on
the amount of wood burned). However, it is important
to monitor the combustor periodically to ensure that it
is functioning properly as well as to determine when it
needs to be replaced.
A probe thermostat, passing through the back of the
stove into the catalytic combustion chamber, automatically regulates the catalytic combustion air supply.
Deterioration of the probe may result in decreased
catalytic combustor performance.
A poorly-functioning catalytic combustion system will
result in a loss of heating efficiency, and an increase in
creosote and emissions.
The combustor should be visually inspected in place for
fly ash accumulation and physical damage three times
per year. Do not remove the combustor unless a more
detailed inspection is warranted because of diminished
performance as outlined below, or to inspect the probe
The refractory package that houses the catalytic combustor should be inspected annually for a buildup of flay
ash, and cleaned if necessary. This may be done during
examination of the combustor.
The probe thermostat should be inspected annually, or
more often if decreased catalytic combustion performance is not due to a defective combustor.
When to Suspect a Combustion
System Problem
The best way to evaluate the performance of your Intrepid II’s combustion system is to watch the amount of
smoke leaving the chimney - both when the combustor
has achieved “light-off” and when it has not. Follow this
With a fire going and the combustor activated, with the
damper closed to send smoke through the combustor
as described in the Operation Section, go outside and
watch the smoke leaving the chimney.
Then, open the stove damper and again watch the
smoke leaving the chimney.
You should see significantly more smoke after the second step, when the stove damper is open and smoke
does not go through the combustor. However, do not
confuse smoke with steam form wet wood; steam disappears rapidly in the air, smoke does not.
If this test indicates a problem, consider other possible
factors as well, such as the time of year or a change
in the quality of your fuel. In spring and fall, draft is
weaker than it is during colder winter weather, and fires
can burn sluggishly. Small, hot fires are a good solution
under these conditions.
“Green” (insufficiently seasoned) wood will burn more
poorly than properly seasoned fuel. You may have to
run your stove hotter (with more primary air) to achieve
good performance if you are burning green or wet
Also, consider any changes in your burning routine.
Once you have ruled out any other possible causes for
decline in performance, you may inspect the combustor and probe. Wear a dust mask, safety glasses, and
gloves. Refer to Figure 32 as a guide.
1. Remove the andirons.
2. Reach inside the stove with a pair of pliers and turn
the two clamps that hold the fireback 90°. Turn the
left clamp clockwise, and the right clamp counterclockwise.
3. Grasp the fireback by its vertical ribs and remove it,
together with the attached throat hood. Pull the left
side out first.
4. Carefully clean the left and right exhaust pockets of
the refractory package. Use a shop vacuum, ideally
one with a very fine filter, and be careful to avoid
damaging the refractory material. This material can
stand high temperatures, but it is somewhat brittle
5. Carefully remove the refractory access panel in front
of the catalytic element.
6. Gently slide the catalytic element out of the refractory chamber. Check the element and the bottom of
the chamber for a buildup of fly ash.
7. If the catalytic element is clogged, take it outdoors
for cleaning. Blow gently through the honeycomb. A
large amount of fly ash may come out of the element.
8. Inspect the element. Although small hairline cracks
will not affect performance, the element should be
largely intact. If the element is broken in pieces or
has large sections missing, replace it. Call your
dealer for a replacement element, part no. 1602521.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Refractory Chamber
Catalytic Block
with Throat
Refractory Access Panel
Fig. 32 Removing the catalytic element.
9. Use a flashlight and a mirror, inserted into one of
the exhaust pockets of the refractory chamber, to inspect the probe. The end of the probe should extend
about 1” into the combustion chamber, and should
not show any
signs ofcatalyst
Use the stove in your usual manner for two weeks,
inspecting the chimney and the chimney connector
If creosote does not build up as quickly as before, it is
likely that the performance change was caused by fly
ash deposits on the catalytic element. However, monitor the chimney system for a few weeks to ensure that
proper performance continues.
If you continue to find a significant creosote buildup or if
you continue to see excessive smoke from the chimney,
the catalytic element will need to be replaced. Call your
dealer for information about a replacement.
NOTE: Use only replacement catalyst, part no. 1602521.
Replace Refractory Package
Refer to Figure 32.
1. Remove andirons.
2. Reach inside the stove with a pair of pliers and turn
the two clamps that hold the fireback 90°. Turn the
left clamp clockwise and the right clamp counterclockwise. The bolts that hold these clamps are
tapped into the back as well as capped by chrome
acorn nuts in the back.
3. Grasp the upper fireback by its vertical ribs and remove it, together with the attached throat hood. Pull
the left side out first.
4. Carefully remove the refractory access panel in front
of the catalytic block.
5. Gently slide the catalytic block out of the refractory
6. Remove the damper housing. It is held in place by
two weld screws and two chrome acorn nuts in the
back of the stove. Loosen the chrome acorn nuts
and rotate the tabs to release the damper housing.
You may find it necessary to remove or loosen the
thermostat cover to access the one of acorn nuts
installed behind the cover.
7. Remove the rear airtube in the back of the stove
which is held in place with two phillips screws.
8. Take out the secondary probe by removing the upper
phillips screw and sliding the probe out of the hole.
9. Lift the damaged refractory chamber up and out of
the firebox.
10. Reverse the procedure for installing the new refractory chamber.
Replace the Stove Gaskets as Needed
The Intrepid uses fiberglass rope gaskets to make a
tight seal between some parts. With use, particularly on
those parts that move, gaskets can become brittle and
compressed, and can begin to lose their effectiveness.
These will need periodic replacement.
The sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below, along
with their applications.
Gasket Diameter.... And the Parts it Seals
5/16” wire gasket The griddle to the stove top
The damper to the upper fire
back; the front doors to the stove front; and the door halves to each other
There is a flat, die-cut gasket between each glass panel
and its door. See page 25 for information on replacing
the glass panel or its gasket.
If you need to change a gasket, first obtain an appropriate replacement from your Vermont Castings, Dealer.
Wait until the fire is out and the stove has cooled. Be
sure to follow the standard safety procedure for working
with dusty materials: Wear safety goggles and a dust
The procedure for replacing the gaskets is the same,
regardless of the gasket location.
1. Remove the existing gasket by grasping an end and
pulling firmly.
2. Use a wire brush or a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gasket. Remove stubborn deposits of cement with a cold chisel
if necessary.
3. Determine the correct length of the appropriate-sized
gasket by laying it out in the channel. Allow an extra
25-50 mm (1-2”) and mark the spot to be cut.
4. Remove the gasket from the channel, place it on a
wood cutting surface, and cut it at the marked spot
with a utility knife. Twist the ends slightly to keep the
gasket from unraveling.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
5. Lay an unbroken 3 mm (1/8”) bead of gasket cement
in the newly-cleaned channel. Starting at one end,
press the gasket into the channel. Ensure a good
joint where the gasket meets before trimming any
excess. Do not overlap the gasket ends or leave
ends with ragged edges.
6. Press the gasketed part firmly against its normal
mating surface to seat the gasket evenly in its channel.
7. For doors, replace the doors and close them on
a piece of waxed paper to keep the cement from
migrating onto the stove front, or tap other parts with
the rubber mallet (or hammer/block of wood).
8. Clean excess cement from around the channel. Let
the cement that holds the new gasket dry thoroughly.
Adjust the Door if Necessary
The door latch or damper mechanism may need adjustment after you have regasketed them. Initially, it may
require loosening to accommodate the new gasket; after a few weeks, it may need tightening to compensate
for compression of the new gasket. The directions for
adjusting the latch and damper are on Page 26.
Permanent Gaskets
Other gaskets seal between non-moving parts, but
these are not subject to the same wear and deterioration as gaskets on moving parts. It is unlikely that you
will ever need to replace these gaskets unless the
involved parts are disassembled and then put back
together. If this is the case, the job should be done only
by a qualified service technician. The diameter of the
gasket that seals these non-moving parts is 5/16”, and
the areas sealed are the flue collar to the stove back;
and the lower fireback to the sides. The glass panels
use a special die-cut flat gasket; refer to Page 23 for
information on these.
The Chimney System
Your Intrepid II is designed to reduce creosote buildup
significantly. However, regular chimney inspection and
maintenance must still be performed. For safety, good
stove performance, and to protect your chimney and
chimney connector, inspect the chimney and chimney
connector on a regular schedule. Clean the system if
necessary. Failure to keep the chimney and connector
system clean can result in a serious chimney fire.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar, organic
vapors and moisture that combine to form creosote.
The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool
chimney flue. As a result, creosote residue accumulates
on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire within the flue system that can damage the chimney and overheat adjacent combustible
If you do have a chimney fire, act promptly to:
• Close the damper and thermostat lever.
• Get everyone out of the house.
• Call the Fire department.
You should inspect the system every two weeks during
the heating season as part of a regular maintenance
schedule. To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool
completely. Then, using a mirror and a strong light,
sight up through the flue collar into the chimney flue. If it
is not possible to inspect the flue system in this fashion
the stove must be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated -3 mm
(1/8”) or more - remove it to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and
shape as the flue liner. Flexible fiberglass rods are used
to run the brush up and down the liner, causing any
deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they
can be removed through the clean out door.
The chimney connector should be cleaned by disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to secure the
individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself,
contact your local Vermont Castings authorized dealer
or hire a professional chimney sweep.
Annual Maintenance
Every spring, at the end of the heating season, perform
a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair. The stove
and chimney system should be inspected and maintained by a qualified engineer.
• Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connec•
Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration.
Replace weak sections of prefabricated chimney.
Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Inspect the chimney connector and replace any
damaged sections.
Check gasketing for wear or compression, and
replace if necessary. A ‘paper test’ will guide you on
this. Close and lock the door or damper on a slip of
paper and then try to pull the paper out. If the paper
pulls out with little or no resistance, the gasket is not
snug enough at that spot. If adjusting the damper or
latch does not result in a seal that makes it hard to
pull the paper out, replace the gasketing.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
• Inspect and clean the catalytic block, and vacuum
out the ash at the bottom of the back plate after
removing the lower fireback. Lightly clean the refractory assembly that houses the element. Be careful
not to damage the refractory material, which is very
Inspect the secondary probe thermometer.
Check door and damper handles for tightness. Adjust if needed.
• Check heat shield screws. Tighten as necessary.
• Clean dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear and
connector heat shields.
• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with
moisture absorbing material (such as cat litter) to
keep the stove interior dry. Close the stove door to
keep cats from using the litter.
Touch up the paint on black stoves.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Appendix: Catalytic Combustor
In any chemical reaction, including the combustion
process, there are certain conditions which must be
met before the reaction can take place. For example, a
reaction may require a certain temperature, or a certain
concentration of the reactants (the combustion gases
and oxygen), or a certain amount of time. Catalysts,
though not changed themselves during the reaction,
have the ability to act at a molecular level to change
these requirements. In the Intrepid II’s secondary
combustion chamber the catalyst reduces the temperature at which secondary combustion can start from the
540 - 650° C (1000 - 1200° F) range to the 260 - 315° C
(500 - 600° F) range, increasing efficiency, and reducing creosote and emissions.
The catalytic reaction, though advantageous, does
have some limitations of its own. Primary among these
it that the reactants (the gases) come into close physical contact with the catalyst itself.
To ensure the necessary contact, the catalytic element
in your Intrepid II is composed of a ceramic base in the
shape of a honeycomb. On each of the honeycomb’s
many surfaces a coating of the catalyst (usually a
noble metal such as platinum or palladium) is applied.
The large surface area exposed in this configuration
ensures that the combustion gases have the greatest
opportunity to come in contact with the catalyst.
Loss of catalytic activity will be apparent in several
ways. First you may notice an increase in fuel consumption. Second, there will be a visible increase in the
rate at which creosote builds up in your chimney connector system. You may also notice a heavy discharge
of smoke from the chimney. A number of catalytic
problems which can cause loss of activity are described
While the honeycomb pattern ensures good contact, it
also increases the resistance to flow of the combustion
gases, and, because of the many surfaces, provides
more places for creosote and fly ash to deposit. It is
important to follow the operating instructions in order
to minimize these deposits, and to periodically inspect
your catalyst for signs of blockage.
Masking and Poisoning
While the catalyst itself does not enter into the combustion process, it is possible for certain elements, such
as lead and sulfur, to attach to the active sites on the
surface of the honeycomb. Though the catalyst is still
there, it is covered, or masked, by the contaminant, and
cannot function. To avoid this situation, it is important
not to burn anything in your Intrepid II that is a source
of these contaminants. Particularly avoid painted or
treated wood, coal, household trash, colored papers,
metal foils, or plastics. Chemical chimney cleaners may
also contain harmful elements. The safest approach is
to burn only untreated, natural wood.
Flame Impingement
The catalytic element is not designed for exposure to
direct flame. If you continually overfire your Intrepid
II, the chemistry of the catalyst coating may be altered,
inhibiting the combustion process. A glowing stove part
at the back of the firebox is a sign of over-firing.
Thermal degradation of the ceramic base may also occur, causing the element to disintegrate. Stay within the
recommended guidelines of the Operation section.
Mechanical Damage
If the element is mishandled, damage may occur.
Always treat the element carefully. Remember the
catalyst is made of a ceramic material; treat it as you
would fine china. Hairline cracks will not affect the
performance of the catalyst, as long as the steel sleeve
holds the element in the proper position.
Peeling of the surface coat may occur if the catalytic
element is frequently subjected to excessive temperatures. Follow the operating instructions carefully to
avoid this type of damage.
Every MHSC product is equipped with either a Corning
“Long-Life”® or a Technical Glass Products “Honeycomb”®. The products are equivalent. If for any reason
you must ship your catalytic element, remember its
fragile nature. Place the element in a plastic bag, and
package it with a generous amount of shock absorbing
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
MHSC reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time, without
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Model 1990CE
Item DescriptionPart Number
Item DescriptionPart Number
Secondary Air Cover
Flue Collar
Back Panel
Damper Rod
Damper Clip
Damper Housing
Throat Hood
Weld Screw
Upper Fireback
Fireback Clamp
Chart Pg. 29
Intrepid II1308662
3/8” - 16 x 1¹⁄₂” Hex Bolt
Lower Fireback
Rear Air Tube
Thermostat Cover
Damper Handle Assembly
Friction Spring
Thermostat Clip
Ball Chain Fitting (2)
Ball Chain
Thermostat Assembly
Primary Air Flap
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
MHSC reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time, without
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Model 1990CE (continued)
Item DescriptionPart
Item DescriptionPart Number
Air Flap Pin
#10-24 x 3/8” Pan Head Bolt
#10-24 x 1/4” Pan Head Bolt
Secondary Probe Assembly
Secondary Air Link
Phillips Bolt, 1/4”-20 x 5/8”
Shim Ring
Secondary Air Flap
Refractory Chamber w/ Access Panel
Catalyst Block
Intrepid II
Refractory Access Panel
Left Insert
Right Insert
Ashpan Only
Ashpan Front Only
Ashpan Handle
Damper Tab
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Model 1990CE (continued)
Item DescriptionPart Number
Right Griddle Quad (Pre-2010)
Right Griddle Quad
Left Griddle Quad (Pre-2010)
Left Griddle Quad
See Chart Pg. 29
Right Side
See Chart Pg. 29
See Chart Pg. 29
Left Side
See Chart Pg. 29
See Chart Pg. 29
Tie Rod
Leg Bolt, 3/8”-16 x 1” Hex Bolt
Right Air Manifold
Left Air Manifold
Handle Holder
See Chart Pg. 29
Left Door
See Chart Pg. 29
Left Glass Panel2
Right Door
See Chart Pg. 29
Right Glass Panel2
Handle Bolt, 1/4”-20 x 3³⁄₈”1
Ceramic Handle120006381
Handle Insert1
Front Door Handle
Griddle Handle Assembly
Gasket, Fiberglas 3/16” Rnd, Blk
Latch Assembly
Glass Clips, Bottom
Glass Clips, Side
Item DescriptionPart Number
Glass Clips, Top
Nut, Jam
Ashpan Assembly
1. Part of assembly 0004345.
2. The glass panels have a heat-reflective coating on the
outside and are not interchangeable.
Shell Enamel Parts - Intrepid II Model 1990
FlueLeft Door Right Door Single
1308657 1306764 1308656 1308655 1306561 1308647 1308649
1308648 1306333
30003180 30003174 30003176 30003175 30003181 30003177 30003179 30003178 30003182
30004824 30004820 30004822 30004821 30004825 30004823 30004829 30004828 30004830
30003190 30003184 30003186 30003185 30003191 30003187 30003189 30001888 30003192
30003200 30003194 30003196 30003195 30003201 30003197 30003199 30003198 30003202
1328657 1326764 1328656 1328655 1326561 1328647 1328649
1328648 1326333
30002571 30002567 30002569 30002568 30002508 30002570 30002506 30002505 30002509
30003210 30003204 30003206 30003205 30003211 30003207 30003209 30003208 30003212
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Please record the following information
for future reference.
Stove Serial No. _____________________
Dealer ____________________________
Phone _____________________________
Date Purchased _____________________
Installer ___________________________
Phone _____________________________
Date Installed _______________________
Limited 3 Year Warranty
MHSC warrants that this woodburning stove will be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period of three years from the date you receive
it, except that the catalyst, thermostat assembly, handles, glass door panels, cement, and gasketing shall be warranted as described below.
MHSC will repair or replace, at its option, any part found to be defective
upon inspection by a Vermont Castings, Authorized Dealer. The customer must return the defective part or the stove, with shipping prepaid,
to the Authorized Dealer or pay for any Authorized Dealer in-home
travel fees or service charges for in-home repair work. It is the dealer’s
option whether the repair work will be done in the customer’s home or
in the dealer’s shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is found to be the
fault of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at no charge to the
customer for parts and/or labor.
Any woodburning stove or part thereof that is repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the
limited warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the
original limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.
Limited 1 Year Warranty
The following parts of the woodburning stove are warranted to be free
of defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from
the date you receive it: The thermostat assembly, handles, glass door
panels, cement, and gasketing. Any of these items found to be defective will be repaired or replaced at no charge, upon the return of the part
with postage prepaid to a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.
Any part repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will
be warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not
to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty or six (6)
months, whichever is longer.
Limited Catalyst Warranty
The catalyst will be warranted for a six year period as follows: If the
original catalyst or a replacement catalyst proves defective or ceases to
maintain 70% of its particulate emission reduction activity (as measured
by an approved testing procedure) within 24 months from the date the
stove is received, the catalyst itself will be replaced free.
From 25 - 72 months a pro-rated credit will be allowed against a replacement catalyst and the cost of labor necessary for its installation at
the time of replacement.
For stove purchases made after June 30, 1990, a third year
(25 - 36 months) of no charge replacement will be made when combustor failure is due to thermal degradation of the substrate (crumbling of
ceramic material). The customer must pay for any in-home travel fees,
service charges, or transportation costs for returning the stove to the
Authorized Dealer.
Amount of Time
Credit Towards
Since Purchase
Replacement Cost
0 - 24 months
25 - 36 months
50 %
37 - 48 months
49 - 60 months
61 - 72 months
Any replacement catalyst will be warranted under the terms of the
catalyst warranty for the remaining term of the original warranty. The
purchaser must provide the following information in order to receive a
replacement catalyst under the terms of this limited warranty:
1. Name, address and telephone number.
2. Proof of original purchase date.
3. Date of failure of catalyst.
4. Any relevant information or circumstances regarding determination of failure.
5. In addition, the owner must return the failed catalyst.
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
Exclusions & Limitations
1. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original retail purchase is required.
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove. Misuse includes
overfiring which will result if the stove is used in such a manner as
to cause one or more of the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be
identified later by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment
has burned off. Overfiring in enamel fireplaces is identified by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discoloration of the porcelain enamel
finish. MHSC offers no warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces.
Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any damage
to the enamel.
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as described
in the Owner’s Guide, nor does it cover an stove which has been
modified unless authorized by a MHSC representative in writing.
This warranty does not cover damage to the stove caused by burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel not
recommended in the Owner’s Guide.
4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by someone other
than a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.
5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by this warranty
but is subject to a claim against the common carrier. Contact
Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer from whom you purchased
your stove or MHSC if the purchase was direct. (Do not operate the
stove as this may negate the ability to process the claim with the
6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not conform to local
building and fire codes or, in their absence, to the recommendations
in our Owner’s Guide.
7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-humidity environment, can be corrosive to the porcelain enamel finish. These
conditions can cause rusting of the cast iron beneath the porcelain
enamel finish, which will cause the porcelain enamel finish to flake
off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by a salt air or
high-humidity environment.
8. MHSC shall have no obligation to enhance or update any unit once
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of incidential and
consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty
lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives
you specific rights and you may have other rights which vary from state
to state.
How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer should
contact a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer or MHSC if the purchase
was direct with the following information:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the purchaser.
2. Date of purchase.
3. Serial number from the label on the back.
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., installation,
mode of operation when defect was noted.
A warranty claim will then start in process. MHSC reserves the right to
withhold final approval of a warranty claim pending a visual inspection
of the defect by authorized representatives.
149 Cleveland Drive • Paris, Kentucky 40361
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