Misty Blue Yonder
Through-hull locations
Fore to aft Thru-hulls (all normally OPEN)
1. forward holding tank discharge; bow
2. Head raw water intake, head discharge, sink
3. Transducers for depthsounder and
4. Galley sink drain, Salt water intake (foot
5. Head raw water intake, head discharge, sink
6. Raw water
7. Aft holding tank discharge
Sail locker, starboard side; thruster
motor in center.
Forward head under sink
Forward starboard cabin, under aft
floorboards, centerline
Galley, port side, under sink
Aft head, under sink
Engine compartment, port side, fwd;
plus engine shaft
Starboard cockpit helmsman seat
Owner’s Notes
Misty Blue Yonder
Jeanneau 45.2 (46’ 6”)
Dear Friends,
Welcome aboard Misty Blue Yonder!
As owners of charter boats for nearly 30 years, Misty Blue Yonder is our fifth, each one in
charter with San Juan Sailing. We’ve watched designs come and go, and frankly, we
think the Jeanneau 45 is about the finest, classiest design we’ve ever seen. And the
sailing is unsurpassed.
She recently circumnavigated Vancouver Island in a wide variety of weather conditions,
and we’re even more impressed! She is quite stiff with her 6.7” draft. She moves easily in
light winds, and sails well without reefs in breezes up to 25 knots, at 15 degrees heel, at
7-9 knots. Our maximum speed on the shakedown cruise was 9.8 knots.
Under power, she backs straight, with only the slightest bit of walk to port. And if you
ever get in a tight situation, we’ve added a bow thruster for added confidence.
Our “just installed” teak companionway doors swing easily out of the way, and the “tent
flap” keeps things warm and cozy down below.
We’ve made many wonderful cruising memories aboard during the last decades in the
San Juan Islands on our past boats…our hope is that you enjoy Misty Blue Yonder as
much as we do.
If you can think of anything that would make her more enjoyable for you, please let us
know. We’ve tried to make her like new.
We wish you fair winds and wonderful memories.
The Sailors Inc Partners
Robert and Wanda Bartlett, Dennis and Darlene Elenbaas, John and Barbara Godersky,
Roger and Marlene Van Dyken (all partners in Misty Blue Yonder)
PS Misty Blue Yonder is named for the Air Force’s famed intrepid Misty pilots from the
Viet Nam War. The “Blue Yonder” comes from the Air Force song: “Off we go into the
wild blue yonder…”
These are “unique” things that may differ from other boats
1 – Autopilot: avoid putting anything metal—especially magnetic—in the starboard aft
cabin--throws off the fluxgate compass in hanging locker and makes the autopilot crazy.
2 - Batteries: don’t touch anything. Both banks charge automatically.
3 – Fenders: stow in sail locker fwd. Retrieval easier if you droop lines over top rung.
4 - Fender Step: the blue fender step, stowed in the sail locker, makes docking easier.
Just clip carabiners to the shrouds, let them drop to the base by the chain plate, and slip
the fender step over the side. With mid-ship dock line in one hand, and shroud in the
other, it makes docking safer and easier.
5 - Galley: 2 water tanks, 170 gallons; valves beside port end of aft settee. Aux. foot
pump salt/fresh water.
6 – VHF: turn on nav station VHF before activating cockpit RAM mike.
7 – Max Prop: After killing the engine with the red button, slip into reverse for a second
or two to stop counter-rotation. Then back to neutral so you don’t accidentally start in
reverse. Red button at base of handle is “clutch” to disengage transmission. Pulls to port
under power at cruising speed.
8 – Fuel: 53 gallons. Fill only to “F” on gauge. If totally topped off, tank can distort and
diesel can seep out of the tank and into the bilge.
9 - Electric head – the main head is electric and flushes like a home toilet, using fresh
water. Touch the top button for “liquid flush” and bottom button for larger “solids flush”.
No toilet paper or feminine articles please!
10 – Holding tanks: Red light “full” warning in each head. Pumpout at dock or in
Canadian waters, activate overboard macerators with timer switches at nav station. Turn
each timer to the yellow dot to empty (see photo under #3 Batteries, below).
11 – Electrical Panel: for your convenience, turn on all breakers with green dots for
normal operation. Yellow dot breakers are for use as needed. Please never activate red
dot breakers. Leave “double green dot” breakers on always.
12 – Refrigeration: 12V thermostat in refrigerator should point aft for ideal temp--cold
enough for freezer compartment. Pointed down will freeze lettuce in fridge.
13 – Bow thruster – assure breaker on, depress red button and hold joystick to starboard
for 3 seconds. Beep says it’s “on”. Turns off automatically in about 30 minutes (series of
beeps). Note bow thruster pivots stern in opposite direction!
14 – Galley silverware drawer: push the button in before sailing. Otherwise it can come
flying out on a port tack!
15 - Draft: 6’ 7”!!!
Basic Specifications:
LOA: 46’ 5”
Displacement: 20,750
Fuel: 53 gallons
LWL: 38’ 5”
Ballast: 6,600
Water: 2 x 85 (170) gallons
Beam: 14’8”
Draft: 6’ 7”
Holding: 2 x 40 (80) gallons
Year built: 1995
Heads: 2 Showers: 2
Years renovated: 2006, 2009,2011
Sails: Fully battened main with 2 reefs, lazy jacks; 130% roller furling jib; cruising
spinnaker with sock.
Engine: Yanmar 65hp turbo w/ feathering MaxProp
Staterooms: 4 doubles, plus convertible dinette
1. Anchors
17. Inverter
2. Barbecue
18. Knotmeter
3. Batteries
19. Lifesling
4. Berths and Bedding
20. Radar
5. Bilge Pumps
21. Refrigeration
6. Bimini
22. Sails
7. Bow Thruster
23. Shower
8. Chart Plotter
24. Stereo
9. Cockpit Cushions
25. Storage
10. Depthsounder
26. Stove
11. Dinghy and Outboard
27. TV/DVD
12. Dodger
28. VHF radio
13. Engine
29. Water
14. Fuel
30. Windlass
15. Heads and Holding Tanks
16. Heating system
Handy cockpit binocular storage
Barometer staying high!
1. Anchors
Main anchor – 66# oversized Bruce anchor forward, mounted on the bow, with 250’ 3/8”
chain. Chain is painted yellow every 50 feet. One yellow section at 50’, two long 5’
sections at 100’, three at 150’ and so on. Paint is augmented with thin yellow line woven
into links.
Please secure the 10’ anchor snubber to the anchor chain at all times, as safety when
underway and to eliminate chain tension on the windlass when deployed. In both cases,
tie off to cleat on windlass.
Secondary – 44# Bruce anchor stowed in the starboard cockpit locker with 30’ 3/8” chain
and 130’ rode in plastic box.
Electric Lofrans Tigres electric windlass with foot controls. Windlass circuit breaker
under the bottom companionway step.
To Deploy Anchor:
1 – Check tide tables to determine current water level and any drop while at anchor.
2 – Add any projected tidal drop to “comfortable depth” minimum (suggest 10’-15’
minimum depth plus tidal drop).
3 – Listen to weather report (usually WX 4).
4 – Select spot for boat after checking boats already anchored.
5 – Pick spot 2-3 boat lengths upwind (depending on anchoring depth) as proposed
anchor location. Generally use 4:1 scope, bow to bottom. To depthsounder reading add 4’
for freeboard and 1’ for transducer location below waterline. (So, if 20’ reading on
depthsounder, add 5’. Thus, 25’ x 4 = 100’ rode.)
6 – Check chartplotter for nearby depths in case of wind shift…or motor around watching
7 – Stop over proposed anchor location.
8 – Assure windlass circuit breaker activated (below bottom companionway step).
Foredeck crew assumes command. [Please: To avoid anchor hitting the hull, it is critical
to push anchor forward with the shank level before carefully raising shank to lower
anchor. The same is true for nesting the anchor. Otherwise you will anchor the flukes in
the fiberglass of the bow.] Carefully push out anchor and slowly place in hanging
position (no swing!). Push foot button to lower (or better yet, ease wildcat brake with
handle). Let out chain to depthsounder depth so anchor is near the bottom.
9 - Signal helmsman to engage reverse, idle speed while deploying rode to desired scope.
10 – Allow anchor to set and stop boat while it continues in reverse, idle speed. Watch
flotsam beside boat and trees on shore to determine if holding. Continue at idle speed,
reverse gear, for one minute. If holding, increase RPM to 1,000 (1,500 if storm is
anticipated.) Check movement shoreside, not the significant prop current going by the
11 - Set snubber on windlass cleat. Ease windlass so it is not tensioned.
12 - In storm conditions (or storm forecast), increase scope if adequate room to leeward.
13 – Can deploy secondary anchor for additional holding power if storm is anticipated.
14 – If in small cove, you may wish to deploy line ashore. 600’ reel in starboard lazarette.
Open transom doors; use mop handle as axle through reel; set mop handle on helm seats.
Deploy line with dinghy while spool unwinds. If sufficient length, bring line around
secure shore object and back to boat for ease of departure.
To retrieve:
1 – Start engine.
2 – Depress retrieval foot switch. In wind, please do not use the windlass to tow the boat
to the anchor.
3 - Retrieve in about 20 second intervals, stop to disperse chain “mountain” with mop
handle (stowed on deck). If boat drifts over anchor, please avoid dragging chain over
4 – As length of rode remaining approaches water depth, listen for windlass to
labor…break out anchor with engine, not windlass. Thank you.
5 - To nest the anchor without chipping the hull, make sure anchor is not swinging, then
use windlass to bring end of anchor shank up and over bow roller…as it does, release
switch, and bring the shank horizontal as soon as possible. Note: if anchor upside down,
it has swivel so you can release it and turn it with mop.
6 - After nesting anchor, secure to windlass cleat with snubber and slack chain on
7 – If chain or anchor is muddy, we attach a dock line to a bucket and wash down until
exit water is clear.
2. Barbecue
The large propane fired Magma cylindrical 9” x 12” stainless steel BBQ is mounted on
the port stern rail. A hose in the port propane locker permanently connects to the large
auxiliary propane tank. Please find the BBQ cleaning brush attached with a SS lanyard
for convenient cleaning when the BBQ cools. Thank you!
The little blue BBQ regulator sometimes “freezes”, extinguishing the flame. We warm it
with our hands for a minute or two and it works fine. Note the spare regulator in the
propane well.
3. Batteries
The system is automatic, using a combiner. Please leave the switches alone during the
Battery switches are red “handles” under the bottom companionway step. Horizontal is
“on”; vertical is “off”. Starboard switch is house bank, middle switch is emergency
combiner in case the engine battery is down (designed not to occur because all house
electrical loads are on the house bank); port switch is engine start/windlass.
Battery voltage displays are at the nav station:
Engine start battery: large red digital voltage readout
at the fwd end of the nav station. Battery is located
under the starboard settee, aft. (single Group 27,
House bank: The small round
black Xantec Link-10 Amp
meter in the nav station
electrical panel displays green
lights along the top. Four
green lights, with last one
blinking, three greens is
acceptable; if only two lights
show, they will turn yellow.
This means you have emptied
your electrical fuel tank and
it’s time to recharge. Please start the engine or hook up to shorepower (with battery
charger switch on 110V panel “on”). If only one light illuminates, it will turn red,
indicating battery voltage is dangerously low and permanent battery damage will
Each time you press “SEL” you will get one of the four readings displayed below:
amp draw
*amp hours drawn down 27.5 54.7 hrs left at current draw
*Note: beyond “–200” causes damage to batteries
Below the row of green lights are four different “indicators”. Note the location of the
small round green light in each photo. From left to right you will see with sequential
1) house bank voltage
2) rate of amp hour charge or discharge
3) amp hours consumed (i.e. -50 means 50 amp hours consumed, 150 remaining)
4) minutes of battery life remaining at current rate of consumption. During
charge, this will display “CCC”.
The house bank consists of 4 x Group 27 115 amp hour sealed deep cycle
batteries located under the forward edge of the port aft cabin cushion. They total
460 amp hours, of which about 200 are “usable”. Below 200 amp hours (or below
12 volts at rest) permanently damages the batteries.
When the engine is running, both banks are charged by a high output 100 amp Balmar
alternator with a Heart Interface Echocharge for the engine start battery and a Balmar
MC-612 multi-step “smart regulator” for the house bank.
Under shorepower, both
banks are charged by a
Professional Mariner
Protech 4 1220 Battery
Charger located on the
forward edge of the port
cabin aft stowage,
underneath the cushions.
Caution: please exercise
care if children are
playing near the battery switches. Turning them with the engine running could destroy
the diodes on the alternator.
4. Berths and Bedding.
All four staterooms are quite similarly sized generous doubles; though the aft staterooms
are a bit wider.
Aft staterooms: 5’ wide (narrowing to 4’ near stern) x 7’ long.
Forward staterooms: about 4 ½ feet wide (narrowing near the bow) x 7’ long
The salon table converts to a huge berth. Just ease the
tensioning handle about ¼ turn on the pedestal while a
couple people lower it. The settee backrest cushions
fill in over the table to make the large berth. The photo
to the left shows the completed conversion.
We’re pleased with the comfort of these cushions
(main salon cushions new 2010).
We provide 8 pillows and four comforters, and four
sets of sheets. If you will need more, please let us
know a week before you arrive, and we’ll gladly put
them aboard.
5. Bilge Pumps
Emergency Hand Bilge Pump – This hand operated pump is located at the starboard helm
station. The bilge pump handle is in the starboard helm lazarette, attached to the
underside of the helmsman’s seat.
Electric Bilge Pump – For normal operation, just leave it “off”. The automatic float
switch activates the 12 volt pump in the bilge, located under the center bench seat,
forward end. Note: in default, the float switch activates the bilge pump (located under
the nav station). For manual override, flip the circuit breaker labeled “Bilge pump” to
Note: The engine features a dripless PYI shaft seal to promote a dry bilge.
6. Bimini (new 2008): The blue bimini flips forward to cover
the cockpit area from rain and/or sun. It is secured with two
straps at the forward corners, and is easily deployed or
stowed. When stowing, please zip up the canvas sun shield
cover. The photo shows the way the strap secures.
7. Bow Thruster: Before leaving or entering a marina, we
activate the bow thruster. First make sure the circuit breaker
on the nav station electrical panel is “on”. Second, at the
starboard helm control, depress the red button while nudging
the joystick to starboard for 3 seconds. A beep tells you the
thruster is “awake”. It’s powerful, so watch your stern when
leaving the dock…the bow thruster will pivot your stern into
the dock.
8. Chart Plotter: The helm-mounted Raytheon 12” color
chart plotter displays chart data as well as radar, log, or any of the above simultaneously.
It will also overlay radar on the chart so that you can see another boat coming across your
chart plotter display. For most operations, use the chart plotter alone. To operate:
At nav station, turn on “RADAR/CHRT”, “AUTOPILOT” and “ELECTRONICS”.
At helm unit, press “Power”
Press “OK” button.
Press the arrows up or down to zoom away or closer.
Note the display of “SOG” (Speed over ground), and “Heading” at the top of the display.
To activate radar, push the “page” button, then select the radar display. Once the radar is
operating, you can revert to the chart plotter page. “Radar Overlay” is normally on,
showing radar images in purple.
It’s normal for the autopilot and the chartplotter COG (course over ground) displays to
disagree by 8-10 degrees. (It doesn’t matter since it is the COG that’s relevant and the
variance doesn’t affect autopilot performance.) They will also vary from the compass at
the port helm, which we no longer calibrate for deviation due to redundancy.
Note: if the autopilot either veers significantly when engaged, or beeps continually,
remove all metal and magnetic items from the starboard aft cabin. The autopilot fluxgate
compass is located in that hanging locker. Even batteries will affect it adversely.
9. Cockpit Cushions: We’re very pleased with the 6 dark blue foldable “Sport a Seat”
canvas cushions aboard. You can either lay them flat like a conventional cockpit cushion,
or flip the back up for truly comfortable back support at the helm, in the cockpit, or even
for sunning on the foredeck. To engage the “ratchet” positioning of the back, lay the
cushion flat, then left back to the desired position. To return to flat, pull it closer than 90
degrees, then release. Please stow the cushions in a stateroom or tuck them under the
dodger for dew/rain at night. Thank you for your care!
10. Depthsounder
Misty Blue Yonder is equipped with a Raymarine ST60 depthsounder with cockpit
display at the starboard helm.
It is calibrated in feet, set to read from the transducer, which is about one foot below
water level. If you assume the reading is from the top of the water you will have a very
modest one foot safety margin. We get very nervous in anything less than 30 feet
cruising, 15 feet in an anchorage, given that we draw 6’7”!! The two biggest hazards to
boats in our waters are rocks and docks.
Activate the depthsounder through the “Autopilot” circuit breaker.
Please note that depthsounders frequently give false readings in deep water. In the San
Juans, 400’-600’ are common and the transducer may give false readings as its sensitivity
increases in an effort to obtain some reading, often from changes in water density,
salinity, or underwater debris.
Due to those frequent changes in depth readings (especially in very deep water), we
suggest that you not set the depth alarm, but always know your position on the chart.
Please note: You cannot rely on the depthsounder alone to avoid rocks! It is possible to
go from 300’ to on the rocks in less than 30 seconds under sail in some areas! The
answer is simple: always have your Navigation and Safety Officer track your position on
the chart where rocks are clearly marked. Double-check with the chartplotter zoomed in.
Thank you!
The transducer is located under starboard forward stateroom floorboard.
11. Dinghy and Outboard
10.5’ AquaDutch (new 2008) with inflatable floor and keel. We chose it because it is
light (we sail faster!), tracks well, has a large capacity and is reinforced in all the right
The dinghy is so light that in strong winds it can “sail” like a kite and even flip. When
sailing in anything above 15 knots, attach the painter to the leeward stern cleat. This
allows the sailboat to break the waves, block the wind and lower the profile of the
dinghy, reducing its susceptibility to “sail”. Alternatively, in winds above 30 knots you
can lash it to the foredeck before getting underway.
Under power with little wind, we tow it from the port side, opposite the starboard engine
exhaust (thank you!).
In all cases, we tow about 4-5 feet off the stern (tied off twice), so we cannot run over the
painter in reverse!
If you use the cabin heat, check that the painter is not in front of the heater exhaust. It
melts. Thank you!
The barnacle-encrusted rocks are hard on dinghy bottoms. We find it works best, as we
approach shore, to put crew weight aft, step gingerly off the bow, then carry—not drag—
the dinghy well up on shore. Just in case, there’s a repair kit in the starboard cockpit
Thank you for avoiding sharp objects on the inflatable floor.
The dinghy depends on high inflation to keep the floor in place. If not inflated to
adequate pressure, bouncing waves may cause the floor athwartship board to “pop up”.
The solution is to push the board back in place with your foot, then properly inflate the
floor, the two side compartments and the bow section.
The dinghy is equipped with safety overpressure relief valves. If in the sun or out of the
water, the floor may overpressurize and “poof!”, suddenly you have a deflated floor. If
so, just inflate again with the foot pump.
The 2hp Honda 4 cycle outboard uses straight gas. Please stow it on the sailboat’s stern
rail at night and when towing the dinghy (several dinghies have overturned). If you
submerge the outboard in salt water, you will be asked to pay for it.
We provide spare dinghy gas, secured in the dinghy in the plastic compartment. For
safety, please never store fuel in a sailboat compartment. SJS will refill the spare tank at
no charge upon your return. It is courteous to bring back the outboard topped off from the
spare tank.
Outboard procedures:
a – Untie safety line, if padlocked unlock using “4-3-0” lined up, loosen brackets and
secure on dinghy transom. Tie safety line.
b – Open gas line (starboard aft)
c – Open fuel vent (top of cap)
d – Turn throttle on “start” position
e – Pull choke all the way out
f – Pull on starter rope
g – Immediately after start, gradually reduce choke until fully depressed
h – Note: there is no reverse. The transmission automatically engages as the throttle
increases. For reverse, pivot the outboard.
i – For safety, secure red coiled wrap around your wrist. If you fall overboard, the coiled
wrap will automatically kill the outboard.
j - Release outboard pivot bracket as you near shallow water, lift shaft clear of any
k – kill engine by depressing red button or pulling out red coiled wrap.
Note: if outboard does not want to start, check fuel first, then be sure black bracket on red
coil wrap is fitted properly under the red kill switch.
12. Dodger
New in 2011. Has hand grabs aft and on both sides for safety. Please minimize touching
the “glass”. If you get salt crystals from spray, please rinse off with galley fresh water.
If you or your guests use aerosol sunscreen, please apply well away from the dodger.
Sunscreen will destroy the glass. (San Juan Sailing recently replaced two panels
destroyed by sunscreen.)
13. Engine
Yanmar 4JH2-TE 65hp 4 cylinder turbo-charged diesel (#14876), with PYI dripless shaft
seal on a 30mm shaft and 3 blade feathering Max-prop.
Oil dipstick access is via a panel in the starboard aft cabin. The engine is not known to
use oil; nevertheless, spare oil lies just below the dipstick in the engine compartment.
Starting procedures:
1. At the starboard helm, if the engine is cold, depress the red button (the clutch) at
the base of the throttle as you push the throttle forward slightly for starting.
Note: neutral is straight up on the single lever throttle/gear shift.
2. Turn the key to start.
3. Listen/look for water coming from aft end of starboard hull.
4. Warm engine at 1100 rpm for no more than 2 minutes. (Most engines are idled
too long, resulting in carbon buildup.) If in a marina, start the engine just before
loosing lines. If starting after extended sailing, please allow one minute at 1100
rpm, another minute or so in gear at 1500.
5. Please pause 2 seconds after the “click” into gear before accelerating, to protect
the transmission. And, of course, always pause 2 seconds when switching from
forward to reverse.
Running (flat water):
- 1500 rpm yields “marina speed” of about 4 knots.
- 2000 rpm is “economy” cruise, about 6 knots, approx .7 gph, range: 450 NM
- 2300 rpm is “comfortable” cruise, about 6.8 knots, approx .85 gph, range:
- 2500 rpm is “fast” cruise, about 7.5 knots, approx 1 gph, range: 400 NM
- 2800 rpm is emergency max cruise.
Notes: cabin heater use will affect fuel consumption. Also note that the boat wants to
head to port when at cruising speed under power.
1. Please allow a 2 minute cool down after running at cruising speed, mainly if you
shut down after the wind comes up (not necessary to cool down after entering
marina or anchoring, since the lower rpm will have cooled engine.)
2. Push the red button on the engine panel until the engine stops. This engages the
electric shutoff solenoid. There is no separate stop lever.
3. Turn the key “off” only after the engine has stopped. Never touch the key while
the engine is running.
4. After turning off engine to sail, slip into reverse momentarily to stop prop
counter-rotation and feather the Max-prop. Then return to neutral so that you
don’t accidentally start the engine in reverse.
Note: the gearshift is sensitive. It need to be exactly vertical or it will slip into either
forward or reverse.
Engine overheat:
If the alarm sounds, or steam comes out the exhaust, the engine has overheated. (The
alarm will also sound in case of low oil pressure or failure to charge batteries.) Check for
the amount of water coming out the exhaust. If it is little or none, the most likely cause is
eelgrass plugging the raw water strainer, located at the forward starboard end of the
engine. Access by sliding the two latches below the bottom companionway steps and
lifting the two bottom steps slightly up and then away. The strainer is just above the
water line, so you should be able to clear it with the seacock left open. If there is still no
water coming out the exhaust, put Vaseline or a similar substance on the lip of the raw
water strainer to assure a better seal.
As an added precaution, we have a grate below the hull to deter eel-grass and other
debris. As a result, we’ve not yet had a clogged strainer.
(Note: we replace raw water impellers annually as part of our preventive maintenance
If the engine overheats with adequate water flow out the exhaust, check the coolant level
in the engine (plastic expansion tank accessed port aft cabin). Add water if necessary
(spare coolant under aft settee cushion).
14. Fuel
Misty Blue Yonder’s 53 gallon (200 liter) fuel tank is located under the starboard
stateroom cushion.
The gauge is at the starboard helm. The key must be on. Please fill the tank only until it
reads “F” on the fuel gauge. If the tank is topped off to the fill hose, the tank will distort
and some diesel can seep out of the tank and into the bilge.
Fuel fill is starboard, aft.
Fueling: In the cockpit locker we have rubber gloves and fuel absorbent pads. Before
fueling, you may wish to build a fuel absorbent dam fore and aft in case of overfill
(reaching for the pads after the spill is too late.).
Please don’t fill too fast, track how many gallons are in, keep your ear to the fill, monitor
the gauge occasionally while filling.
15. Heads and Holding Tanks
The most commonly used aft head is electric (new 2009). It uses fresh water to reduce
odors. The forward toilet is a Jabsco standard manual. On this, please always turn the
handle to “closed” (dry bowl) as a precaution against sinking the boat.
The rule of the sea is: The person who plugs the head, unplugs the head.
Experienced sailor rule: To avoid the “rule of the sea” above, nothing goes down the
toilet that hasn’t been eaten. Please place feminine articles and toilet paper in the waste
basket, plastic bag, or zip lock…makes for a much more pleasant cruise!
Operation of electric toilet aft:
For liquid effluent, push upper button.
For solid effluent, push lower button.
Operation of manual Jabsco toilet forward:
For liquid effluent:
1 - use the toilet
2 – pump 4 or 5 times in “dry bowl” to empty.
3 - flip switch to “flush” position.
4 – pump 3 or 4 times to bring in and flush out “fresh” salt water.
5 – flip switch to “dry bowl” position.
6 – pump until bowl is empty
For solid effluent:
1 – flip switch to “flush” position.
2 – pump 4-5 times to bring in supply of “fresh” salt water.
3 - use the toilet.
4 – pump 10-12 times to move solids into holding tank.
5 – flip switch to “dry bowl”
6 – pump until bowl is empty.
Y valves: each head has an exposed Y valve on the wall near the toilet. The arrow on the
short end of the handle points to either “overboard” or “tank”. USCG regulations require
effluent go into holding tanks in US waters, regardless of water depth and tidal flushing
action. In Canada, though the ecology is the same, holding tanks are only required to be
used in shallow “no discharge” zones, normally anchoring bays and marinas. Exercise
your judgment. We advise that in shallow bays and marinas, where solid effluent has an
adverse affect, use shoreside facilities or the holding tank for solids. The state director of
salt water quality informed us that liquid effluent from boaters has no adverse affect on
water quality; nevertheless, its discharge is not permitted by USCG regulations. Yet, this
information may be helpful in emergency situations, knowing it is preferable to switch
the Y valve to overboard for liquid effluent than to have tanks overflow.
Holding Tanks:
Forward: 40 gallons, located at the bottom of the sail locker. Accessed by removing
spinnaker from sail locker (for info only, normally no need to access).
Aft: 40 gallons, located under and between the two cockpit helms. Accessed by lifting the
cockpit sole hatch between the wheels (for info only, normally no need to access).
A red light near each toilet illuminates when the holding tank is full. (Alternatively, you
can (with difficulty) view the level on the plastic tank itself.)
Holding tanks can be emptied two ways:
a. Assure the “Macerator” circuit breaker is “on”. Turn the white timer switches at the
navigation station (forward end), to the yellow dot. Each dot is placed so that the pump (a
“glug-glug” diaphragm pump) will
empty a full holding tank (normally
about 15 minutes).
b. Alternatively, each tank has a deck
fitting for use at a pumpout facility.
Note: holding tanks seacocks remain
Don’t use a holding tank when the red
light is illuminated on the “tank”
monitor in each head. Please do not
overfill the holding tanks, or effluent
will overflow through the vents, which
yields foul odors, dirties the hull and,
if solids clog the vent, prevents the
holding tank from either filling or
emptying. This shuts down the toilet.
In a worst case scenario, you can explode the holding tank!
Depending upon the number and type of flushes above, and the number of people aboard,
the holding tank may be a day or two of usage.
Hint: you may find vinegar and vegetable oil on the forward head shelf. Every few days,
we put about a cup of vinegar down the toilet, flush it, then follow it up with a couple
tablespoons of vegetable oil to lubricate the gaskets. It can make an amazing difference in
ease of operation.
Note: in event of failure, we have a spare toilet pump assembly in the port forward “spare
parts” storage under the mattress of the port forward stateroom.
16. Heating System
The Webasto 90S diesel-fired thermostatically-controlled hydronic (circulating hot water)
boiler system features forced air fan-driven radiators in each of the four staterooms, plus
the main salon. Each room has its own “high”, “low” and “off” rocker switch for
customized “per cabin” comfort. The heater draws from the main diesel fuel tank.
The heater warms the domestic hot water somewhat to take the edge off in the morning
before the engine fires up.
Nav station heater control: thermostat, on/off, main salon fan control
Operation: To
activate the heater,
simply flip the
chrome toggle switch
next to the
thermostat at the nav
station to “on”. A
green light indicates
the heater is
activated. Set the
thermostat to the
desired temperature.
Because the
circulating water
must first be heated
before the radiator
fans are activated, it
takes about 10
minutes before you
feel heat.
Note: if the engine is running and the heater is “on”, the heated engine coolant will
automatically heat the furnace blowers to reduce heater diesel consumption.
When it’s cool, we turn on the cabin heat to take the chill off in the morning, and
sometimes in the evening. After “at temperature” we usually turn it off. We always turn
the heater “off” at night, both to sleep cool and to avoid the clicking sound of its electric
fuel pump.
Note: we have 2 electric space heaters on board (normally stowed in the port forward
stateroom) for use when on shorepower.
17. Inverter – At the nav station, a portable 12v/110v inverter plugs into the cigarette
lighter type 12v receptacle. It’s handy for charging cameras and cell phones. It does not
have sufficient wattage to power a hair drier (excessive draw may burn the fuse in the
cigarette receptacle wiring). A second inverter, located in the cabinet above the freezer,
powers the television/VCR.
18. Knotmeter
There are two speed readouts: speed through the water (registered at starboard helm), and
speed over ground (registered by the GPS on the chart plotter, which takes the effect of
current into account).
The impeller is under starboard forward stateroom floorboard. If you catch eelgrass on
the impeller, it will read 0.00, in which case you can try to clear it by traveling in reverse.
19. Lifesling
The Lifesling just outboard of the starboard steering station is rated best in person
overboard recovery. Review the cartoons on the face of the bag for procedures. The
lanyard is secured to the boat so that tossing the floating harness allows it to tow behind
the boat like a ski tow rope. Circling the person overboard will draw the recovery line
near them.
The low swim platform and easy walk through transom simplifies crew recovery (and
dinghy use).
20. Radar
The Raymarine 2KW radar reads out in the color 12” chartplotter/radar display at the
starboard helm in your choice of a separate display, side by side display, or radar overlay
onto the chart plotter display. Instructions are under “Chartplotter” above.
We leave the radar on “standby” unless needed, because it has considerable power drain.
Please do not navigate at night or in fog. If there is fog, stay at your mooring until it lifts.
Safety of you, your crew, and the boat is paramount.
The radar is intended in case you are unpredictably enveloped in fog while underway.
21. Refrigeration (new 2010)
There is a large refrigeration compartment, plus a separate freezer compartment.
It operates on 12V batteries and there is adequate battery capacity to leave it on
continuously. The ideal setting for most people on the clockwise dial is to point the dial
straight aft. Anything more will freeze your lettuce.
22. Sails
General Sailing Comment: Overall, we think this is a great sailing boat, among the finest
we’ve ever sailed. Scoots sprightly in a light breeze, stiffens nicely as winds build.
Although the boat is equipped to sail in a wide variety of conditions, if a storm is
forecast, we urge you to stay put. But if caught in a blow, we’ve tried to prepare her well
for your safety. We find that the boat imparts a wonderful sense of confidence in higher
winds, and remains well balanced with little weather helm. She sails best when kept
under 20 degrees of heel.
All lines lead aft to the cockpit.
Mainsail: fully battened, loose footed, with lazy jacks, and two pre-rigged reef points.
The clew reefing lines are led aft to the cockpit.
If not already secured to the mast, you may wish to slack the lazy jacks and lead them
forward so the leech does not foul during hoist.
The main halyard is secured to the end of the boom to double as a boom lift.
We find it easiest to hoist the main with a crewmember hauling on the main halyard at
the mast (portside), while someone else takes up the slack in the cockpit.
We usually get it about 3/4 hoisted doing this.
Then, we get nearly full hoist by having the crew at the mast pull the halyard straight out
(like a bow-and-arrow) as the cockpit crew takes up the slack on the release stroke. A
number of pumps like this normally brings it within a few inches of full hoist.
For final luff tensioning, we use the two-speed cabin-top winch.
Trailing tell-tales assist mainsail trim.
This boat sails best when carrying a touch of mainsail luff, and the tell tales flying
With the multi-purchase solid vang, we set sail shape with the main sheet, secure it with
the vang, and as we ease off the wind, we ease the traveler.
To flake the main, first tension the lazy jacks. We secure the lazy jacks to the mast
mounted cleats.
After flaking and tying the mainsail to the boom, we secure the main halyard to the end
of the boom for the night and move the lazy jacks to the mast, looping them under the
gooseneck reef hooks and re-tensioning. At cruise end, we put on the boom cover.
Hint: if the lazy jacks slap the mast, we secure
them tightly under the washers of the reefing
horns, as shown in the photo (especially when
sailing in a good breeze) or else move them
outboard of the flaked sail luff. Either method
moves them away from the mast and avoids
mast slap. In some conditions, we put them
outside the boom cover, which gets them away
from the mast.
Reefing: Release the mainsheet and boom vang.
Ease the main halyard while crew attaches the
tack ring to the gooseneck hook. Tension the
halyard to the desired reef point. Tension the
single line clew reef. Re-tension the mainsheet.
Re-tension the boom vang. Note: in stronger
winds, we find it easiest to reef from the hove to
The primary winches
for the 135% genoa
(Profurl roller furling)
are chrome two speed
self-tailing Harken
The genoa fairleads are adjustable underway with the control lines in the cockpit...very
handy to move the fairlead forward when sailing off the wind. We find the best fairlead
position for close hauled is in line with the aft edge of the nearby deck hatch.
Cruising Spinnaker (new 2007):
If you are experienced with a cruising spinnaker, you are welcome to use this sail in light
wind conditions. If you have not employed them previously, we respectfully ask that you
not do so. Without experience, you will get in trouble quickly.
Stowed in the sail locker forward, the asymmetrical cruising spinnaker is designed for
beam to broad reach sailing in breezes up to 15 knots true, 10 apparent. Attach the tack
lanyard to the shackle just below the jib furling drum.
The sheets and turning blocks are stowed in the spinnaker turtle. To employ, hoist the
sock using the green spinnaker halyard and raise the sock as illustrated in the photos
1 – Open turtle in sail locker
2 – Attach halyard
3 – Hoist sock
4 – Attach tack as shown
5 – Attach blocks/run sheet(s)
6 – Raise sock
7 – Continue sock raise
8 – Take up sheet slack
9 – Trim sheet, edge of luff curl
To jibe, we suggest lowering sock and running sheet to other side.
To douse, reverse the above sequence.
23. Shower
Both heads incorporate a shower. Extend the sink faucet and place into the shower
holder—or just hold it and wet yourself down. Please activate the shower sump circuit
breaker at the nav station before showering. After showering, hold the black sump pump
switch in the head a few seconds until you hear the pump no longer under load.
Thank you for drying the mirrors after use to prevent premature failure.
24. Stereo. We thoroughly enjoy good music. There are two sets of speakers aboard.
For operating details, please see the Owners Manual in its own 3 ring binder in the ship’s
a. AM/FM/CD/MP3/WMA: Pioneer brand, located at Nav station. The CD player is
behind the front radio panel, accessed by a button in the upper right hand corner of the
b. Satellite stereo: The XM satellite stereo feeds into the Pioneer receiver. To activate
satellite stereo, push the “source” button until XM satellite shows.
c. IPOD: Ipod cable feeds into the Pioneer.
d. Salon and cockpit stereo speakers: activate your choice of salon or cockpit speakers (or
both) with push buttons behind the small door on the right as you sit at the nav station.
Note there are four buttons. The inner two must always be depressed. Depressing the
forward button activates the main salon speakers; the aft button activates cockpit
speakers. Hint: if cabin speakers sound muffled, assure nothing is sitting on them (they
are mounted horizontally) and that treble has not been inadvertently misadjusted.
25. Storage
The many storage areas are appealing factors of the Jeanneau 45. Here are the storage
areas we found of greatest use:
1 – Given the large capacity of the refrigerator, we stow many optional refrigerated items
in it.
2 – Salon center settee. Located opposite the galley counter, the under settee storage of
the center island settee is large and convenient.
3 – Large standing cabinet forward, port. This huge custom designed locker has three
slide out trays and is probably the single most convenient large storage area, and is used
mainly for cutlery, pots and pans and other galley ware. Note the custom adjustable teak
tray heeling stops. Please always employ them. It avoids damaging the door and trays
when heeled to starboard.
4 - Under forward settee cushion. Big storage compartment under these cushions.
5 – Behind settee cushions. Some storage behind the starboard settee cushions, and some,
though more cumbersome to access, under the starboard settee cushions.
6 – Above galley counter cabinets. We store quite a bit of food in the cabinets above the
refrigerator and freezer.
7 – The center console has a top drawer with spices.
8 - Under forward stateroom cushions. Lots of stowage here and fairly easily accessed.
Each cabin has a hanging locker, a cabinet, and stowage compartments that we find more
than adequate. Some also have drawers.
Tools:Under the aft settee cushion.
Emergency supplies (flares, horn, etc)
Under the nav seat in a white nylon mesh bag.
We store them in the sail locker forward. We droop the fender lines over the top rung of
the sail locker ladder for easy retrieval.
Dock Lines:
Port lazarette.
Cooking utensils:
In the forward galley cabinet (above) and under the counter just forward of the stove in a
slide out cabinet (Note the teak pull insert recessed in the door; please don’t pull on the
push/pull lock knob. Sometimes we find we forget to lock this cabinet before sailing, and
it can slide dangerously out. Just push the button in.)
There is a large plastic trash container under the galley sink, and small ones under the
sinks in each head.
You can accumulate trash if you wish into a large trash bag (we compact it first, stepping
on cans and containers) and stow it carefully in the cockpit sole “liferaft” storage area
accessed between the two helms. Please note the handhold cutout as shown for lifting.
This also gives access to the steering quadrants and cables, so please keep any trash bag
well forward in the compartment.
26. Stove
The two burner gimbaled SS Hillerange propane
stove (2003), with oven, must have the propane
solenoid switch “on” to operate (located under the
electrical panel at the nav station). Use a “firestick
starter” to light the burner. (Note: you don’t need a
flame to ignite the burner, only a spark). Depress the
stove knob, turn left 90 degrees and light. Turn
further to the left to reduce flame (simmer).
Oven: 1 – Set knob to desired temperature. 2 – Open
oven door. 3 – Depress red rod at the right edge of
stove as you ignite the oven pilot light. Wait a few moments as the thermo couple heats,
then release red rod. In a couple minutes the entire oven burner will ignite. We suggest
that whenever you turn off the stove burner, you shut off the propane solenoid, which, for
safety, shuts off the propane flow in the cockpit propane locker. We have two propane
tanks in the port aft cockpit propane well, vented to the outside for safety. Each tank
normally lasts 6 weeks.
27. TV/DVD
The 22” Hi Definition flat screen television (new 2009) swings out from its stowed
position on the aft bulkhead above the freezer. It includes a self-contained DVD player.
TV reception is poor in the islands, so feel free to bring your favorite DVDs.
To operate, assure “12V outlets” breaker is on, that the small inverter in the cabinet
above the freezer is on, and that the TV is plugged into it. We keep the remote control in
the nav station.
Oh, one thing…the multi-fold arms on the TV mount for customizing your viewing
angle? Please assure the TV is secured to the velcro before sailing!
28.VHF radio
There is an ICOM VHF radio at the nav station, with a RAM mike at the starboard helm,
facing to port. The RAM mike must be connected before turning on the nav station VHF.
The RAM mike enables you to hear, tune, and transmit from the cockpit. In our opinion,
this is a significant increase in safety because it makes it practical to monitor channel 16,
which by law you must, and by seamanly courtesy you should. If you are the nearest
vessel to an emergency, you may well be able to save a life or a boat. Our earlier boat,
with our son and fiancé (now wife) aboard, was saved in a MAYDAY situation because a
nearby boat monitored channel 16 and threw a line as our dear ones were drifting toward
the rocks.
For your convenience, we have “tagged” three channels for you: 80 (San Juan Sailing’s
channel), 69 (a boat-to-boat communications channel), and 16 (the emergency and
contact channel). Please remember to touch the “scan” button on top of the remote mike
after each use so that you automatically monitor channel 16 while underway. (To “tag” a
channel when it is displayed, hold down the “scan/tag” button until you hear a beep. To
“untag”, do the same until you hear two beeps.)
Use the “WX/CH” button to access the weather channels (Ch 4 is most common in the
San Juans. Listen for “Northern Inland Waters”) Expect small craft advisories on the
Straits of Juan de Fuca to the south, and the same for the Straits of Georgia to the north
on clear afternoons. Press “WX/CH” again to return to your normal channel.
29. Water
There are two water tanks—one under each forward stateroom, and both vent to the
anchor well. They hold 170 gallons (660 liters) between them, or 85 gallons (330 liters)
each. The manifold to switch tanks is located near the companionway, behind a small
door at the port aft end of the aft settee. The door is labeled. There is no water level
gauge, so we empty one tank at a time and estimate use.
The water pressure pump is under the nav station.
The foot pump at the galley produces either fresh or salt water; lever is under the sink. In
the salt position (normal) it’s handy for conserving water by rinsing dishes. Note that in
the fresh water position it will leak continuously if the pressure pump is on…for fresh
water it’s designed to serve only as emergency backup if the pressure pump fails.
Hot water is produced by two methods:
a. Engine: It takes about 30 minutes under solid load to heat the large hot water tank
(under the port helm).
b. Shorepower: If hooked up, turn on the “hot water” circuit breaker on the 110v panel
above and to the right of the nav station.
(The Webasto cabin heat also makes warm but not hot water).
30. Windlass
The windlass circuit breaker is beneath the lowest companionway step. Please review the
procedures under “Anchoring” above.
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