PDF for Rubber Mount Models

PDF for Rubber Mount Models
LSR Pipe Installation
Removal of the Stock Exhaust
Tools needed: Flathead Screwdriver
9/16” Deep Socket
10” 1/4” Drive Extension
5/16” Allen
1/2” Socket
1/4” Drive Deep 1/2” Socket
T-30 Torx bit
3/16” Allen
Remove heat shields from head pipes by unscrewing the
worm clamps with the Flathead Screwdriver. There are
three on the front pipe and two on the rear. You must
completely unscrew them to remove the heat shields.
Remove the mufflers. There are two 1/2” bolts securing the
muffler to the support/crossover bracket located on the
bottom of each muffler that must be removed using the
1/2” Socket. Loosen the clamp securing the muffler to the
head pipe using the 9/16” Deep Socket. If you have
passenger pegs, the rear clamp may be difficult to access
but it is possible without removing them. Also remove the
support bracket on the rear headpipe using the 9/16” Deep
Socket. Once everything is loose, the muffler is ready for
removal. You may need to spray a penetrating lube
between the muffler and headpipe to facilitate it’s removal.
Remove the headpipes. Unbolt the flanges using the 1/4”
Drive 1/2” Deep Socket and the 10” 1/4” Drive Extension.
Remove the old gaskets from the cylinder head.
Unbolt the rear brake rod using the T-30 Torx Bit so you
can remove the exhaust support/crossover pipe.
Remove the front sprocket cover using 5/16” Allen Driver
and 3/16” Allen Driver. Use caution with the 3/16” Allen
bolts, as they are installed with locktite from the factory,
are very long, and may break if twisted too hard. Retain
the rear exhaust support bracket under the 5/16” Allen.
Remove the Exhaust crossover/support bracket using the
5/16” Allen Driver on the three allen bolts, then slip the
bracket over the rear brake rod.
Congratulations, you should now have a pile of parts that looks like this:
Installation of the LSR 2-1 Exhaust
Tools needed: 1/2” Box Wrench
10” 1/4” Drive Extension
5/16” Allen Driver
(For retaining rings) Piston Ring Spreader
Ft-Lbs Torque Wrench
9/16” Box Wrench
1/4” Drive Deep 3/8” Socket
3/8” Stubby Box Wrench
3/16” Allen Driver
Blue Locktite (REQUIRED!)
In-Lbs Torque Wrench
Re-install 3 5/16” Allen Head bolts from Exhaust
support/crossover. Use blue locktite. Torque to 30 ft-lbs.
Replace front sprocket cover. Longer 3/16” Allen Head
Bolt goes in top right hole. Lower 3/16” Allen Head Bolt will
require approximately 1/8” stack of 1/4” washers to take
up the space from the missing exhaust crossover tube
between the cover and the engine case. Install original
support bracket and RB Racing support bracket under
5/16” Allen Head Bolt. Install 9/16” bolt in RB Support
Bracket. Use blue locktite on all bolts. Torque 5/16” Allen
Head bolts to 30 Ft-Lbs, and the 3/16” Allen Head Bolts to
80-100 In-Lbs.
Re-Install rear brake rod bolt using T-30 Torx bit. Use blue
locktite. Torque to 120 In-Lbs.
Install flange and retaining ring on head pipes. Make sure
the shiny side of the flange will face out, and that the
retaining ring is seated all the way in the groove. I used a
piston ring expander to get the retaining rings onto the
head pipes without scratching them up. Remember:
Flange first, then retaining ring. The flange has a
recession that the ring will fit into. Make sure it is seated
all the way down.
T-30 Torx Bit
Remove the O2 sensor bung plug using the 5/16” Allen
driver. Anti-seize the threads, then re-install.
Install billet gaskets into the head pipes.
Hang rear pipe loosely. Install the new flange nuts onto the
studs just enough to keep the flange and gasket in place.
Slip front pipe into exhaust port (No nuts yet) then into the
socket on the rear exhaust pipe by swinging the rear pipe
towards the back of the bike. This part takes patience and
possibly several attempts. Once both pipes are in place,
install flange nuts onto the front exhaust studs loosely,
then install the rear support bolt finger tight. Visually
insure that the retaining rings are still seated in the groove
on the flanges, and that the gaskets are in place. Evenly
tighten the flange nuts to 100-120 In-Lbs using the 1/4”
Drive Deep 3/8” Socket with the 10” 1/4” Drive Extension.
Alternate tightening of the nuts to draw the flange down
evenly. Tighten the rear pipe first, then the front. The front
lower exhaust nut will require the use of the 3/8” Stubby
Box Wrench to tighten due to limited access.
Finally, tighten the rear bracket bolt using the 1/2” Box
Insure that the new exhaust does not rest against any wiring,
hoses, etc. I had to re-route my breather hose because it was
resting on the pipes due to the new pipe routing.
Wipe all fingerprints, grease, etc. off the pipes before you start
the bike, or you could end up with permanent stains.
Congratulations, you’ve finally finished!
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