Manual Version 5.1 - January 2011
Copyright © 2010 AudioNote Kits
www.AudioNoteKits.com
audionotekits@rogers.com
Page 1
Table of Contents
Section 1: Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................... 3
Section 2: Chassis Preparation ............................................................................................................................................. 4
Installing the Front Insert Plate .......................................................................................................................................... 4
Installing the Mains Transformer (T-199) ........................................................................................................................... 5
Installing the IEC Socket and Rocker Switch ..................................................................................................................... 6
Choke Installation............................................................................................................................................................... 6
Heat Sink Installation ......................................................................................................................................................... 7
Installing the Output Transformers ..................................................................................................................................... 7
Installing the Tag Strip ....................................................................................................................................................... 8
Installing the 300B Valve Bases ......................................................................................................................................... 8
Installing the Valve Base for the Rectifier Tube 5U4G ....................................................................................................... 8
Section Summary ............................................................................................................................................................... 9
Section 3: IEC Section and Chassis Ground ....................................................................................................................... 10
Section 4: Filament PCB ...................................................................................................................................................... 15
Section 5: Power Supply Board ........................................................................................................................................... 18
Resistor Installation .......................................................................................................................................................... 19
Capacitor Installation........................................................................................................................................................ 20
Link Installation ................................................................................................................................................................ 20
Section 6: Driver Board........................................................................................................................................................ 21
Section 7: 300B Tag Strip Wiring ......................................................................................................................................... 24
Section 8: Wiring Power Supply PCB to Driver Board ......................................................................................................... 25
Inter-wiring Chart.............................................................................................................................................................. 25
Section 9: Remaining Wiring ............................................................................................................................................... 28
RCA Input Cable Connections ......................................................................................................................................... 38
Speaker Post connections (Output transformer secondary‟s) .......................................................................................... 39
Potentiometer Installation................................................................................................................................................. 40
Section 10: Inter-wiring Checklist ........................................................................................................................................ 41
Filament Board ................................................................................................................................................................. 41
PSU Board ....................................................................................................................................................................... 42
Driver Board ..................................................................................................................................................................... 43
Section 11: Testing and Power-On Phase ........................................................................................................................... 44
Final Tests........................................................................................................................................................................ 46
Appendix.............................................................................................................................................................................. 47
Resistor Color Code Reference ....................................................................................................................................... 48
AC Wiring Guide (T-199 Mains Transformer) ................................................................................................................... 49
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Page 2
Section 1: Introduction
This is the new Beta version for the Kit1 300B SET Stereo Integrated Amplifier.
We are using a combination of photographs / instructions along with wiring diagrams to guide you through the build
process.
Hardware: In the kit we will be using stainless steel Metric Hardware – there are basically 2 types of screws we will be
using – M3 and M4 with M4 being the bigger of the two. You will also notice that we use both PAN and countersunk
screws – Countersunk screws have a flat top of them so that they can be screwed into a surface flat so that other devices
can sit on top of them.
Please take your time with the build and check your work as you go along – feel free to contact us if you have any
questions – audionotekits@rogers.com or phone 613 822 7188.
Ok have fun!
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Page 3
Section 2: Chassis Preparation
In this section we will be mounting most of the hardware
onto the chassis ready for wiring later on.
We will begin with the front insert plate.
Installing the Front Insert Plate
Let‟s start by installing the „tang strips‟
into position.
These have two rows of holes. One of
the rows has PEMS (see picture on
the far left). These should be installed
face-down.
These PEMS provide fixing for the
insert plate with their tapped holes.
Attach the tang strips to the chassis using the holes that do not contain the
PEMS. Use countersunk screws and nuts to secure them - Don‟t tighten too
much – keep slack for now.
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Page 4
With the tang strips installed you will
be able to then install the front insert
plate by installing the 6 screws that go
into the PEMS in the tang strips.
Installing the Mains Transformer (T-199)
This picture shows the location of the 3 transformers and
the choke that will be installed onto the chassis.
Before any of these are mounted, appropriate grommets
should be fitted into the holes where the lead-outs will be
passed through. These prevent the wires from coming into
contact with the chassis. The two larger grommets are for
the mains transformer – the remaining 5 are for the output
transformers and choke.
We are going to begin by installing the mains transformer
this is the T-199 which supports both 300B and 2A3
operation.
The transformer has a Primary side and a secondary side –
the primary side is the one with less wires.
You will want to install the 2 rubber strips. You should have already installed the
large grommets in the previous step (along with the smaller ones for the output
transformers and shoke) along with the 2 large grommets into the correct holes
as shown in the picture.
Position the transformer as shown opposite.
We recommend some WD-40 spray to
Lube the grommet holes especially on
the secondary and also spray the
secondary wires lightly so that the
wires can feed through the grommet
hole – a second pair of hands could be
useful at this point – Be sure to wipe
off excess oil once complete.
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Page 5
This is a good method to feed the
Mains wires into position – take your
time as it‟s a little tricky – just be
patient and it will pay off!
Almost there now – continue feeding
the wires into position.
Once in position on top of the rubbers
you can use the provided screws M4
16mm with washers on top side and
M4 nuts underneath the chassis.
Installing the IEC Socket and Rocker Switch
With the Mains successfully installed you can install the IEC socket which is
secured with 2 M3 x 10mm countersunk screws and M3 nuts.
The rocker switch snaps into position.
Use the same orientation as shown in the picture.
Choke Installation
Begin by feeding the choke‟s wires
through the gromm et hole.
The M4 x 10mm screw will secure the
choke to the chassis entering from the
top of the chassis but instead of an M4
nut underneath the chassis, we will be
using the Hex standoffs so that our
power supply board can be supported
later.
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Page 6
Here you can see the choke in
position, the 4 hex spacers in position,
and the choke wire fed through the
grommet hole.
Well done!
Heat Sink Installation
Ok so take the heat sink and you will
see the holes with the little counter
sunk in them – these face towards us
when we install in the chassis.
You can see from the pictures the
relative position of the heat sink – the
countersunk M4 x 16mm screws are
inserted into position and then M4 nuts
are used to secure the heat into
position.
Now you need to install the M3 x
16mm countersunk screw into position
and use the 6mm hex spacer to
secure to the chassis.
Installing the Output Transformers
We can now install the output
transformers into position. Note the
orientation of the output transformers
such that the red/black wires are
toward the center.
Go
ahead
and
position
the
transformers now under the chassis,
feed the wires through the grommet
holes as shown, and secure then into
position.
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Page 7
Installing the Tag Strip
Place the hex spacer on the inside of
the chassis between the large 300B
holes in the middle of the chassis and
screw into position with the M3 6mm
countersunk screw.
Then place the prepared tag strip into
position and use the M3 6mm pan
screw to secure down.
Installing the 300B Valve Bases
Let‟s now install the 300B valve bases.
The only trick here is that the small
holes of each valve will be closest
to the tag strip.
Use the M3 x 16mm countersunk
screws to secure the valve bases to
the chassis – there is a little play here
so center the valve bases when
securing down.
Installing the Valve Base for the Rectifier Tube 5U4G
Install the 8 pin rectifier valve base
into position now over on the right
hand side of the chassis.
Make sure the notch is pointing
towards the middle of the chassis!
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Page 8
Section Summary
Well done. Now that you have assembled the chassis to
this point, you can begin your first wiring job in the next
section.
Your chassis should now look like the picture opposite.
Mains
Transformer
Filament section
5U4G
Driver Board
Power
SupplyBoard
The above graphic shows the overall layout now of the kit1 from how you will be working with it!
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Page 9
Section 3: IEC Section and Chassis Ground
In this section we will be hooking up the IEC section – the following example is for 120V operation – refer to the
appendix for wiring for all the world voltages.
Here is a view from inside the chassis with the IEC plug and the rocker switch
installed in position – the rocker switch snaps in while the IEC requires 2x M3
screws to hold into position.
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Page 10
Before we continue – remember that the wiring shown here is for 120v operation
only. If you are in a part of the world that requires a different mains voltage then
please refer to the relevant world voltage wiring scheme in the Appendix.
First, take the two white leads from the transformer‟s primary winding and cut
them to the same length. Don‟t cut them too short – you can leave plenty of
length.
Strip the ends and twist the wires
together.
Tin the wires and cut to a size that is
adequate for inserting into the crimp
opening.
Cut a short piece of heat shrink and place it over the wires and push it down
away from the end at least 6 inches (the picture shows the heat shrink just on
the wires for illustration purposes).
Note that for 240 v and 230V regions and other world voltages you may be
using just one wire to go into the crimp.
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Page 11
With the tinned ends of the wires now
just coming to the end of the CRIMP
you will need to add solder so that the
solder melts onto the wires and the
crimp to secure the wire in place – this
will take plenty of heat and let the
solder flow – don‟t be too quick to pull
your iron away – a good 5 seconds of
heat will be required – then let cool
and position the heat shrink over the
end of the crimp.
Pull the heat shrink over the crimp as
shown and heat with a heat gun.
Sometimes a hair dryer can also be
used so long as it can focus the heat
to a specific point.
You can see the result in the far-left
picture (we have included some extra
crimps in case you have trouble).
Once the crimp has cooled you can
place it in position on the rocker switch
as shown. (Note that the black and
white leads can be fitted to either side
of the rocker switch but they must be
adjacent to each other).
Repeat the process with the pair of
black wires – start by twisting them
and repeating the instructions to install
the crimp into position.
Congratulations you have successfully
completed the first part of the IEC
section – we now have pre-made
cables for the rest of this section –
much easier...
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Page 12
Start by installing the pre-made
ground cable into position by pushing
the crimped end on the IEC socket
and the ground end on the GND screw
holding in the Mains transformer.
Now take the green wire coming out of
the Mains transformer primary and
trimming – we will be adding a ground
lug to this wire and connecting to the
same CHASSIS ground position.
Now take the prepared green wire with
ground lug on it and you can install to
the same location and tighten the
screw holding down the three ground
wires.
This third wire goes to the Power
Supply Board W2.
Here you can see the prepared brown
and blue wire that we will use to
connect between the rocker switch
and the IEC plug – connect as shown.
The IEC section is now prepared for
120v operation.
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Page 13
Prepared
Cable
This diagram represents the connections
that we have made in the IEC section.
It represents 120v (USA) operation.
For other world voltages please use the
appropriate wiring chart in the Appendix.
Black
wire
twisted
from
Mains
primary
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White
wires
twisted
from
Mains
primary
Page 14
Section 4: Filament PCB
In this section we will build the Filament section.
The heart of this amplifier are the 300B tubes – in order for
a 300B tube to operate it needs 5V DC applied to its two
“filament” pins – these are the 2 thicker pins on the 300B.
This filament PCB takes in 7v AC and converts it down to
5V DC – There is a trick though in that the 5V DC is floating
– in other words it does not sit at ground potential – and
therefore we use an isolation kit to isolate the regulators
from the heat sink.
Here is a list of the parts we will be using:
Quantity
Description
4
CAPACITOR
4700uF 16V – C1, C3, C5, C6
2
Bridge Rectifier
KBU6J
2
2.5V ADJ Regulator
LM1084 ADJ
2
100R
R2, R4
2
330R
R1, R3
Install the 4 capacitors into position in C1, C5, C3, and C6.
Make sure that the STRIPE on the negative side of the cap is oriented correctly
– you will note the + on the PCB designating the positive side of the capacitor.
We don’t install caps in the C2 and C4 positions.
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Page 15
Install the Bridge rectifiers in position in BR1 and BR2 – note the keyed side of
the rectifier with the angled corner is the + side and faces the bottom of the
board.
Then install the resistors into position – the regulator is programmable based on
the ratio of the resistors – we install a 330R ohm resistor in R1 and R3 and a
110 ohm resistor in R2 and R4.
Then you will want to install the LM1084 regulators into the PCB – this part
requires a little attention – as you want the regulator to rest on the heat sink with
the hole matching up.
I suggest that you lay the filament board into the chassis and just line up the
hole of the regulator with the hole on the heat sink – it seems that the regulator
pins go about 1mm below the bottom of the board – once happy, solder the
regulators into position.
This picture shows the regulator mounted to the heat sink – do not do this yet –
read the following instructions before doing this.
Once the Filament board has been fully populated, you will use the insulation kit
to attach the regulators to the heat sink.
It is important to understand this arrangement. The regulator body must be
electrically isolated from the heat sink so read the rest of the section before
proceeding.
The securing screw is isolated using a
flanged plastic washer. It is important
that this is inserted correctly – see
pictures opposite.
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Page 16
The clear Mica washers are used to
isolate the regulator bodies from the
heat sink.
Note we are showing you here how to screw in the regulator to the heat sink.
My suggestion is not to do this at this point because later we will be
connecting wires to the filament board and it will be easier to make these
connections with the filament board not connected to the heat sink – so for now
leave the filament board “installed” in the chassis but not fully secured down!
Once the filament board is installed and positioned in the chassis you may want
to take an ohm meter and make sure that the middle pin of the regulator is NOT
connected to the heat sink in any way!
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Page 17
Section 5: Power Supply Board
In this section we will be populating
the very important power supply PCB.
Basically
it
involves
capacitors, and links.
resistors,
The resistors and links are on the
underside of the board with the
capacitors on the top side.
Capacitor parts list:
Quantity
Description
Location
2
47uF 400V
C1 & C2
2
68uF 450V
C11 & C13
1
1nF 1000V
C4
1
220uF 450V
C8
2
100uF 450V
C12 & C14
1
10uf 160v
C9
Resistor parts list (a color code chart can be found in the Appendix):
Quantity
Description
Location
1
100R 1W
R1
1
82K 1W
R2
1
330K 1W
R3
2
2K2 1W
R5 & R7
2
2K7 1W
R6 & R8
2
220K 1W
R9 & R10
Note: R4, R11, and R12 are not used
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Page 18
Resistor Installation
The Resistors are installed on the underside of the power
supply board.
The picture opposite shows the underside of a completed
board.
It is important to install the resistors in the manner
explained below – please read these instructions
thoroughly before you begin.
These pictures show how the resistors
lay on the board.
This can be a fiddly job so I suggest
that you read and follow the
instructions below.
FOLLOW THESE STEPS FOR POSITIONING THE RESISTORS
1. The easiest way of fitting the resistors to the board is to tin each end of them first, before soldering them to the
board. To do this heat up the component and touch the solder to it, giving a very thin coat of solder. Its useful to
have some styrofoam so you can stick the tinned resistors so they can stand up!
2. Before soldering the resistor to the board, tin also the pad on which it is going.
3. Holding the resistor in place, heat one end with the iron so that it is lightly held to the pad by the solder. Then heat
the other so that it is held similarly.
4. Finally apply a little more solder to each end to make a firm and solid joint. Ensure that one end has cooled down
before soldering the other!
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Page 19
Capacitor Installation
Fix the capacitors taking great care to observe the correct polarity with the
electrolytics.
Accidental reversal could damage the amplifier, your health, and your
house insurance!
Note that the small 1nF 1000V capacitor has no polarity.
Link Installation
Connect insulated wires as jumpers across the centre of the board in both
positions marked LINK; make sure that they do not rub against any other
soldered parts.
Also, using insulated wire, make the link OPTIONAL LINK 2 , this being easiest
carried out on the resistor side of the board, i.e. the wire will join the two holes
directly above R11.
This completes the Power Supply Board – it too can be positioned in the chassis
but not secured down.
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Page 20
Section 6: Driver Board
This board is used to provide the 6SN7 and 5687 amplification stages of the amplifier. Refer to the large accompanying
schematic diagram to view the circuitry on this PCB. Please READ THIS SECTION COMPLETELY before starting
assembly.
Parts list:
Quantity
Description
Location
2
330K 1W
R1 & R2
2
680R 1W
R3 & R8
2
470K 1W
R4 & R7
2
10K 1W
R5 & R6
6
82K 1W
R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14
2
1K 1W
R15 & R18
4
820R 1W
R16, R17, R19, R20
2
1M 1W
R21 & R22
4
.015uF 200V (Signal capacitor)
C1, C2, C3, C4
2
100uF 10V (Electrolytic)(+/-)
C5 & C6
4
.22uF 600V (Signal Capacitor)
C7, C8, C9, C10
2
470uF 16V (Electrolytic)(+/-)
C11 & C12
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Page 21
Carefully fit the 8-pin (octal) valve base to the resistor side of the board i.e. the
side with only R numbers. NOTE this base needs to be correctly positioned; if
you look at the octal base, there is a slot in the base where the spigot (key) of
the valve fits in, this index is marked on the board and they must be aligned
together.
Push the two 9-pin valve bases into this side of the board and check that the
ceramic bodies of the bases rest on the board itself.
Make sure that all the solder lugs are pulled properly through the board, as far
as possible, before you start soldering them into place.
They require large amounts of solder the 8-pin base is best soldered from
either side of each pin in turn. Remember that the bases must be level on the
board, as otherwise it may be difficult to fit them through the holes in the chassis
later, which may make inserting the valves difficult.
Bend the following resistors, R9 to R14 and R19 & R20 to
shape as described in the PSU board section. (82K).
Cut them to length and tin the ends and tin the solder pads
on the board.
Fit these resistors first (both sides of the board are used),
then fit the remaining resistors through the board in their
respective positions.
HINT: For R1 to R8 and R15 to R22, pre-form the legs by
gently bending around the shaft of a small screwdriver - do
not bend the legs too close to the body or too sharply.
Note that R9, 10, 11 and 12, 13, 14 are connected in
parallel, that is as two single large resistors. A single
resistor in this place would get much too hot.
At this stage it may be a good idea to secure the 8 hex spacers into position.
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Page 22
Insert C1, C2, C3, C4, (.015uf) the power bypass
capacitors on the other side of the board (the capacitor
side).
NOTE: The capacitors (.22uF and .1uF) are signal
capacitors and are not polarized (no + or -) so orientation
does not matter. The .22uf capacitors have a 300~ on them
and that refers to 300V AC which is similar to 600V DC.
Insert C7, C8, C9, C10 (.22uf). Again, these capacitors
have no polarity so it does not matter which way they are
oriented.
Insert C5, C6, (100uf) C11 and C12 (470uf) the cathode
bypass capacitors. These are electrolytic caps so be sure
to orient according to the + - on the capacitor and the PCB.
Using insulated wire, link W9 to W17, W10 to W13, W5 to
W12 and W6 to W16 on the driver PCB with black wire
(see opposite).
DO NOT INSTALL THE POTENTIOMETER DURING THIS
SECTION It‟s the very last thing we will do in the kit you are
finished with the driver board for now!
Well done!
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Page 23
Section 7: 300B Tag Strip Wiring
In this section we will be hardwiring the 300B section – Take a look at the schematic for this section so you are familiar
with the operation – Then lay out the components as shown in the graphic below:
Filament Wires carrying 0 5v
DC from filament board
1K5 resistors in
parallel
220uf 100v
Electrolytic
capacitor
3K3 resistor
These wires go to
the ground cluster
in the middle of
the PS Board
Filament Wires
Components: 4 x 1K5, 2 x 3K3, 2 x 220uf 100v.
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Page 24
Section 8: Wiring Power Supply PCB to Driver Board
Refer to the Inter-wiring Chart and follow the graphical charts below to perform the wiring from the power supply to the
driver Board.
We have supplied you with twisted red/black PTFE wire that you can use for this
section – basically start by soldering the RED/Black twisted pairs to the Power
supply board.
Then position the board into the chassis and align these wires with the driver
board as they will be connecting – see the following chart:
Inter-wiring Chart
PSU Board
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Driver Board
W21
Black wire to W21 on Driver
W22
Red wire to W18 on Driver
W23
Red wire to W14 on driver
W24
Black wire to W20
W25*
Black wire to W22 driver
W26*
Red wire to W19 driver board
W27
Red wire to W15
W28
Black wire to W23
Page 25
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Page 26
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Page 27
Section 9: Remaining Wiring
PSU Board
Destination
W15
Black Wire to W2 ON DRIVER - GND
W16
Black Wire to negative side Cathode on Tag section - GND
W17
Black Wire to negative side Cathode on Tag section - GND
On the above slide you can see the three ground connections that can be made from the Power supply PCB to the Driver
Board and then the Hardwiring section
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Page 28
Connect the choke wires to the Power supply board:
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PSU Board
Destination
W5
CHOKE wire
W6
CHOKE wire
Page 29
Connect chassis GND to PSU Board and Mains Secondary (red leads) to 5U4G:
Start
Destination
W2 – PSU Board
Chassis GND
Red secondary wire (a)
Pin 4 - 5U4G
Red secondary wire (b)
Pin 6 – 5U4G
Note the notch in the 5U4G base and the location of pin 1.
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Page 30
Remaining 5U4G connections:
Start
W3 – PSU Board
Destination
Pin 8 – 5U4G (20cm red wire)
Yellow secondary wire (a)
Pin 2 - 5U4G
Yellow secondary wire (b)
Pin 8 – 5U4G
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Page 31
Connecting the Output Transformers:
First, take the two thin Black wires from the output transformers, lightly twist them together and lay them across the
chassis towards the choke. These will need to be extended to reach the P.S.U. board; solder 25cm additional Black
wire to each. Ensure there are no sharp projections of wire or solder then insulate these joints with the heatshrink tubing
provided. It is important that they are well insulated; these wires carry the 450 volts from the PSU Board.
Start
Destination
Extended black wire (a)
W7 – PSU Board
Extended black wire (b)
W8 – PSU Board
Upper red wire (O/P Tx)
Upper 300B (follow diagram above)
Lower red wire (O/P Tx)
Lower 300B (follow diagram above)
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Page 32
Connect mains secondary centers to PSU GND:
Start
Destination
W20 – PSU Board
Mains secondary - Blue/White
W18 – PSU Board
Mains secondary – Brown/White
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Page 33
Connect center tap for 5687 to PSU Board:
Start
W13 – PSU Board
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Destination
Mains secondary - Orange/White
Page 34
Connect Drive Board output to Tag Strip:
Start
Destination
W4 – Driver Board
Tag strip position shown in diagrams
(use purple PTFE wire)
W11 – Driver Board
Tag strip position shown in diagrams
(use purple PTFE wire)
The tag strip positions are those tags that connect up to the 3K3 resistors (i.e.
the end that does not connect to the 300B tube).
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Page 35
Connect Filament Board output to 300B‟s:
Use the two twisted red/black PTFE the filament wire pairs to make the following connections:
Start
Destination
W2 – Filament Board
Red wire (a) to Upper 300B as shown above
W4 – Filament Board
Black wire (a) to Upper 300B as show above
W1 – Filament Board
Red wire (b) to Lower 300B as show above
W3 – Filament Board
Black wire (b) to Lower 300B as shown above
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Page 36
Connect remaining mains secondary wires to Filament Board:
In this section we will hook up the Mains secondary wires to the Filament Board – this is the AC voltage that goes to the
filament board so that it can be converted to DC and then provides 5VDC to the 300B filaments - You will need to make
the following connections:
Start
Destination
W8 – Filament Board
Mains Secondary – Violet
W6 – Filament Board
Mains Secondary - Green/Yellow
W7 – Filament Board
Mains Secondary – Blue
W5 – Filament Board
Mains Secondary – Black
Now, all the connections have been made to the filament board so you can secure the board permanently.
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Page 37
RCA Input Cable Connections
Amongst the final connections to be made are the Shielded AN-A cable from the
input RCA‟s to the driver board.
I suggest that you put some solder on the RCA signal section and GND (Tin
these areas) then heat the solder and insert the tinned AN-A cable into position
– the RCA end is the one with the red and the white wires.
On the Driver board connect the red signal to W7 and W8 and the grounds to W1 and W3 as shown in the above diagram.
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Page 38
Speaker Post connections (Output transformer secondary’s)
The 5th anniversary chassis has just a red and black speaker post for each channel – the output transformer has three
colored wires – black, red and blue – so you will want to connect as shown below – in this case if you are using 8 ohm
then just the red and the black wires are used and you can trim and put heatshrink over the 4 ohm terminal.
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Page 39
Potentiometer Installation
The last remaining item is to install the Volume Pot.
The original kit1 had the volume pot fitted right into the PCB itself – we have
moved the pot now away from the driver board so you will need to extend wires
from the pot itself over the Driver board VP1 section.
Connect the extended wires from the POT to the driver board as if the pot was
being inserted directly into the PCB.
If you would like to configure the kit as a power amplifier with no volume pot then
you can install 47K resistors in the Driver board as shown opposite (only one
channel shown – so you would need 4 resistors (2 for each channel).
That completes the build of the kit1 – now we need to do some visual checking – I would suggest going through the slides
of all the inter-wiring – then check the next section – Inter-wiring Checklist.
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Page 40
Section 10: Inter-wiring Checklist
This section provides a good checklist to review to make sure that all the correct internal connections have been made
from the three boards – go through each page to ensure all is checked off!
Filament Board
W1
W3
5v output to 300B filament PIN
0v output to 300B Filament PIN
5V DC output
W2
W4
5v output to 300B pin 4 red
0v output to 300B L/H pin 3
5V DC output
W5
W7
Mains Secondary Green/Yellow
Mains Secondary Voilet
AC input
AC input
W6
W8
Mains Secondary BLK
Mains Secondary BLUE
AC input
AC input
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Page 41
PSU Board
W1
W2
W3
Green prepared wire to Chassis GND
Pin 8 of 5U4G rectifier valve
W4
Not
used
W5
W6
CHOKE wire
CHOKE wire
W8
Black wire
primary
Black wire
primary
W9 W10 W11 W12
Not
Used
W13
W14
W15
W16
W17
W18
Center
tap
to
5687
heaters
Orange/White
Not USED
Black Wire to W2 ON DRIVER - gnd
Black Wire to negative side Cathode on Tag section- gnd
Black Wire to negative side Cathode on Tag section- gnd
Center Tap for HIGH VOLTAGE Brown/White
W19
Note Used
W20
PSU
W21
W22
Connects center tap for 6SN7 Blu/White
DRIVER
Black wire to W21 on Driver
Red wire to W18 on Driver
W23
W24
Red wire to W14 on driver
Black wire to W20
W25
W26
black wire to W22 driver
red wire to W19 driver board
W27
W28
red wire to W15
black wire to W23
W7
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from
O/P
tx
from
O/P
tx
Page 42
Driver Board
W1
W2
W3
RCA GND from RIGHT signal
Black wire from W15 on PSU (GROUND)
RCA GND from LEFT signal
W4
purple PTFE to 3k3 resistor to R/H 300B
W5
W6
black jumper to W12 on driver board
black jumper to W16 on driver board
W7
W8
red from RCA cable right signal
red from RCA cable left signal
W9
W10
connects black jumper wire to W17 on driver
connects black jumper wire to W13 on driver
W11
connects PTFE purple to 3K3 300B grid resistor L/H
W12
W13
see above
see above
W14
W15
connects red wire to W23 on PSU
connects red wire to W27 on PSU
W16
W17
see above
see above
W18
W19
connects red wire to W22 on PSU
connects red wire to W26 on PSU
W20
W21
W22
W23
connects black
connects black
connects black
connects black
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wire from W24 on PSU
wire from W21 on PSU
wire from W25 on PSU
wire from W28 on PSU
Page 43
Section 11: Testing and Power-On Phase
Once all the visual checks have been done we can prepare for the power on phase
1. Insert the 2A slow blow (5x20mm) fuse into the fuse drawer and insert in the IEC socket
2. When the 0 is pressed against the chassis then the unit is off
A few OHM meter checks are in order – first check that the heat sink is NOT CONNECTED to any of the regulator pins
(LM1084) on the filament board.
I suggest that you turn on the amp with no tubes in position and prepare to read some DC voltages...
If the fuse does not blow then you should be able to make some voltage measurements – be careful when measuring and
do not lean on the chassis etc… follow proper electrical safety guidelines.
The first thing to check would be the 5V DC on the fat pins of the 300B bases.
Then check the 6.3V AC on the 6SN7 (7 & 8 pin) valve base and the 5687 (4 & 8) filaments.
Once the unit is powered up then lets check the following voltages:
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Page 44
Use the graphic below to measure the other key DC voltages in the kit:
If all your DC voltages are looking good then we are almost there.
Here is a chart view of the key voltages in the kit
High Voltage (H.T.) on pin1 of 300B
425 Volts
H.T. out of PSU Board (W7/W8 PSU BOARD)
435 Volts
300B Cathode Voltage (pin 3)
70 Volts
H.T. to 5687 Valve (W14 & W15 Driver Board)
395 Volts
H.T. to 6SN7 Valve (W18 & W19 Driver Board)
375 Volts
Pin 9 (from Below) of 5687
200 Volts
Pin 6 of 5687
8.4 Volts
Pin2 and Pin 5 of 6SN7
175 Volts
Pin 3 and Pin 6 of 6SN7
4.8 Volts
W13 of PSU Board
85 Volts
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Page 45
Final Tests
If you have completed the kit and all the DC voltages are checking out correctly then you may want to do a sound test –
we have provided an audio test CD with a 1Khz signal on it – play the CD into the kit1 – and hook up the dummy loads
(8ohms) provided.
Increase the volume of the kit and use your ohm meter to measure the output AC voltage across the dummy loads – you
should see it increase and decrease as you adjust the volume.
If the amplifier seems to be working correctly and you are feeling confident then we suggest you try hooking the unit up to
some speakers – I would try the amplifier first on a low end pair of speakers – try some familiar music and get a feel for if
the amplifier is operating correctly.
The sound of the kit1 will change quite a bit over the first month as it burns in – you will also smell the transformers
burning in – this is normal.
The tubes we supply with the amplifier are good for burn in and test – after a few months you may want to invest in some
higher end 300B‟s such as Sophia Princess or TJ Meshplates – you can also try some NOS 5U4G & 6SN7.
Hope you had fun with your build – send us some pictures and a small review and we will be happy to post on the web
site.
Many thanks
Brian Smith
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Page 46
Appendix
The appendix contains auxiliary information. That is information that is either common to most project manuals or any last
minute pieces of information that did not make it into the manual in time. It may also contain pull-out circuit diagrams that
may be handy to have outside the manual etc.
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Page 47
Resistor Color Code Reference
You can also find an 'Interactive Resistor Color Code Calculator' on our website (available from the Links page).
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Page 48
AC Wiring Guide (T-199 Mains Transformer)
The following diagrams show the mains wiring configurations for the various world voltages. It is recommended that you
cross out the ones that don't apply to you so that you can't follow the wrong one.
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Page 49
Full Schematic
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Page 50