Volkswagen Polo 1990-1994: Bodywork and fittings (eng.)

Volkswagen Polo 1990-1994: Bodywork and fittings (eng.)
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . .19
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . .18
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door exterior handle and lock components - removal and refitting . .14
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15
Exterior mirror and associated components - removal and refitting .20
Facia panel assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Front bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Interior trim and glovebox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Rear bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Sliding roof runner lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Sunroof - general information and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . .22
Tailgate and support struts (Hatchback and Coupe models) removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Underbody sealant check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Windscreen, tailgate and fixed windows - general information . . . . .21
Degrees of difficulty
Torque wrench settings
Tailgate lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .._.......
Windowregulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exterior handle:
To outside of door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
To edge of door
Bumpers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Seat belts:
Stalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tailgate lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11.2 Bodywork and fittings
1 General information
The bodyshell is made of pressed-steel
sections, and is available in three-door
Hatchback, three-door Coupe and two-door
Saloon versions. Most components are
welded together, but some use is made of
structural adhesives; the front wings are
bolted on.
The bonnet, door, and some other
vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated
metal, and are further protected by being
coated with an anti-chip primer before being
Extensive use is made of plastic materials,
mainly in the interior, but also in exterior
components, The front and rear bumpers and
front grille are injection-moulded from a
synthetic material that is very strong and yet
light. Plastic components such as wheel arch
liners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle,
to improve the body’s resistance to corrosion.
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and under-frame
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Strangely
enough, the best time to clean the under-frame
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the under-frame is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a waxbased underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
under-frame of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just before Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
repair any damage to the wax coating. Ideally,
a completely fresh coat should be applied. It
would also be worth considering the use of
such wax-based protection for injection into
door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an
additional safeguard against rust damage,
where such protection is not provided by the
vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special nonabrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear, so that water can
be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in
the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears, by proprietary glass
cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other
body or chromium polish on glass.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do
become stained (which can be more apparent
on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could
get into the seams and padded interior,
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, it
is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out
properly, particularly where carpets are
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.
Repairs of minor scratches in
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
Bodywork and fittings 11.3
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a good “key” for the
filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust ho/es
or gashes in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, to
create a slight depression for the filler paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint: if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved with aluminium or plastic
mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use for
a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate
size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
position it in the hole so that its edges are
below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It
can be retained in position by several blobs of
filler paste around its periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair
which can be used directly from the tube. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. When a contour that approximates to
the correct one is achieved, stop working the
paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will
become sticky and begin to “pick-up” on the
applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler
paste at 20-minute intervals, until the level of
the filler is just proud of the surrounding
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-anddry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners, to form
a thin paste which is ideal for filling small
holes. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure
until you are satisfied that the surface of the
filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork,
are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean
water, and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thickness of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before starting to spray, agitate the aerosol
can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old
tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered.
Cover the repair area with a thick coat of
primer; the thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of paint, rather than one
thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry
paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is smooth. While doing this, the work
area should be thoroughly doused with water,
and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed
in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area,
and then, using a circular motion, work
outwards until the whole repair area and
about 2 inches of the surrounding original
paintwork is covered. Remove all masking
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
the final coat of paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not feasible, owing to the cost of
the equipment and materials required for
effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot air gun to heat up
11.4 Bodywork and fittings
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material which can be used directly from the
tube. Once mixed in equal proportions, this is
used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics met with in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily, but professional matched
paints, to match any plastic or rubber finish,
can be obtained from some dealers. However,
it is now possible to obtain a plastic body
parts finishing kit which consists of a preprimer treatment, a primer and coloured top
coat. Full instructions are normally supplied
with a kit, but basically the method of use is to
first apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned, and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special-coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component,
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally posses.
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
7.4 Front bumper mounting bolt
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a VW dealer
using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly, and secondly,
uneven stresses will be imposed on the
transmission, causing abnormal wear, or
complete failure, particularly to such items as
the tyres.
1 Support the bonnet in its open position.
2 Release the clips from the top of the grille
by pressing them down with a screwdriver
(see illustration).
3 Move the top of the grille forwards then lift it
from the lower mounting holes in the front
valance (see illustration).
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6.2 Releasing the clips at the top of the
radiator grille with a screwdriver
8.1 Rear bumper upper mounting bolt
and cover
1 Jack up the front of the car and support on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the radiator grille (see Section 6).
3 Unscrew the three upper mounting bolts
from the top edge of the front bumper.
4 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts, then
pull the bumper forwards and disengage it
from the side guide plates (see illustration).
Where headlamp washers are fitted,
disconnect the tubing from the jets.
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Hatchback and Coupe models
1 Open the tailgate then prise out the covers
and unscrew the upper mounting bolts from the
top edge of the rear bumper (see illustration).
2 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts then pull
the rear bumper rearwards and disengage it
from the side guide plates (see illustration).
6.3 Removing the radiator grille
Bodywork and fittings 11.5
Saloon models
3 Remove the number plate lights from the
rear bumper as described in Chapter 12.
4 Unscrew the mounting bolts securing the
rear bumper to the underbody bracket. If
necessary, access can be improved by raising
the rear of the car and supporting on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
5 Pull the rear bumper rearwards and
disengage it from the side guide plates.
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
1 Support the bonnet in its open position,
and place some cardboard or rags beneath
the corners by the hinges.
2 Mark the location of the hinges with a pencil
then loosen the four retaining bolts.
3 With the help of an assistant, release the
stay, remove the bolts, and withdraw the
bonnet from the car.
Refitting and adjustment
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the hinges to their original positions and
check that the bonnet is level with the
surrounding bodywork. If necessary adjust the
height of the bonnet front edge by screwing
the rubber buffers in or out, and also adjust
the bonnet lock if necessary with reference to
Section 11.
10.3 Bonnet release handle beneath the
left-hand side of the facia
11 .1 The bonnet lock located on the
engine compartment front crossmember
2 Inside the car, remove the lower facia panel
on the left-hand side under the facia.
3 Remove the bonnet catch release handle
and bracket (two screws), then disconnect the
cable (see illustration). Tie a piece of thin
wire or cord to the inside end and pull that
into the place the cable occupied to make
fitting a new cable more simple. Release the
cable from the retainers in the engine
compartment and release the rubber grommet
from the bulkhead.
and repositioning the lock within the
elongated holes. The safety catch and antirattle spring should be checked for condition
at the same time. Check that the bonnet is
supported by the rubber buffers when shut,
and if necessary adjust the height of the
buffers by screwing them in or out.
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the cable is positioned without any
sharp bends.
1 Open the door then prise off the special
washer and remove the check strap pivot pin
(see illustration).
2 Mark the position of the door hinge
brackets in relation to each other.
3 Support the door then unscrew and remove
the lower hinge bolt followed by the upper
hinge bolt, and withdraw the door from the car
(see illustration).
1 To remove the lock, open the bonnet then
mark the position of the bonnet lock on the
engine compartment front crossmember (see
2 Unscrew the mounting bolts, withdraw the
lock and disconnect the cable.
1 Open the bonnet, unbolt the bonnet lock
from the engine compartment front crossmember and disconnect the cable.
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if
necessary adjust the height of the bonnet
front edge by loosening the retaining bolts
12.1 Door check strap and pivot pin
Refitting and adjustment
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if
necessary adjust the position of the door on
the hinges so that, when closed, it is level with
the surrounding bodywork and central within
the body aperture. Lubricate the hinges with a
little oil and the check strap with grease. If
necessary adjust the position of the door
12.3 Door upper hinge bolt
11.6 Bodywork and fittings
13.1 Removing the locking knob
13.2 Slide the inner handle surround
to the rear to remove it
13.3a Removing the exterior mirror
control knob. . .
13.3b . . . and boot
13.4a Prise out the trim cover. . .
13.4b . . . unscrew the mounting
screws. . .
13.4c . . . and release the door pull
from the trim
13.5a Prise off the cover . . .
13.5b . . . remove the screw. . .
13.5c . . . and withdraw the window
regulator handle from the splines
13.7 Cross-head screw securing the inner
trim panel to the door
5 Note the position of the window regulator
handle with the window shut then prise off the
cover, remove the cross-head screw and
withdraw the handle (see illustrations).
6 Where applicable, remove the self-tapping
screws and withdraw the storage compart-
ment panel. This is not required on all models.
7 Prise out the stoppers and remove the
cross-head screws from the trim panel (see
8 Using a wide blade screwdriver carefully
prise the trim panel clips from the door inner
1 If required, unscrew and remove the locking
knob from the top of the inner trim panel (see
illustration). This is not essential as the trim
panel is slotted to allow it to be removed with
the knob in position.
2 Remove the inner handle surround by
sliding it to the rear (see illustration).
3 Remove the exterior mirror control knob
and boot from the top of the door pull (see
4 Prise the trim cover from the door pull,
remove the cross-head screws, then move
the rear of the door pull outwards. Note the
location lug (see illustrations).
Bodywork and fittings 11.7
13.8 Releasing the inner trim panel from
the weatherseal
13.9 Removing the window regulator
handle packing
13.10 Peeling the protective sheet
from the door
14.1 Screw securing the exterior handle to
the rear edge of the door
14.2 Removing the plastic strip insert from
the exterior door handle
14.3a Remove the screw. . .
14.3b . . . then release the exterior handle
from the door
14.5 Packing around the inner door handle
panel taking care not to damage the trim.
Remove the panel and release it from the upper
inner door weatherseal (see illustration).
9 Remove the window regulator handle
packing (see illustration).
10 If necessary peel the protective sheet from
the door (see illustration). The trim clips are
fitted over the sheet - it will be necessary to
cut round them to prevent tearing the sheet.
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
5 Remove the trim panel, locking knob and
protective sheeting (refer to Section 13) then
remove the packing from around the inner
door handle (see illustration). The locking
knob must also be unscrewed from the
control rod before removing the door lock.
6 Using a screwdriver release the inner door
handle from the door inner panel, then unhook
it from the control rod (see illustrations).
14.6a Use a screwdriver to release the
inner door handle. . .
14.6b . . . then unhook it
from the control rod
Door lock
Exterior handle
1 Open the door and unscrew the single
screw securing the handle to the rear edge of
the door (see illustration).
2 Using a small screwdriver lever the plastic
strip insert from the exterior door handle (see
3 Remove the cross-head screw and
withdraw the exterior handle from the door
(see illustrations). Note: The handle is not
connected directly with the door lock.
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
the sealing gasket and fit a new one if
11.8 Bodywork and fittings
14.7a Unscrew the mounting screws . . .
14.7b . . . and withdraw the lock
from the door
15.3a Bolts securing the window regulator
to the door
15.3b Bolts securing the lifting plate
to the window channel
15.4 Removing the window regulator
through the door aperture
15.5 Unclip the mouldings from the
window aperture
7 Unscrew the two screws securing the door
lock to the rear edge of the door, then
withdraw the lock while guiding the locking
control rod and main control rods from the
door (see illustrations). Keep the locking
knob engaged with the lock.
5 With the window fully lowered unclip the
inner and outer mouldings from the window
aperture (see illustration).
6 Remove the bolt and screw and pull out the
front window channel abutting the corner
window (see illustration).
7 Withdraw the corner window and seal.
8 Lift the window glass from the door.
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the locking knob control rod remains
engaged with the lock while guiding it through
the hole in the top of the door. Also make sure
the main control rod is located on the inner
(protective sheet) side of the window channel
before connecting it to the inner door handle.
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If the glass
is being renewed, make sure that the lift
channel is located in the same position as in
the old glass. Ensure that the inner cable is
adequately lubricated with grease and if
necessary adjust the position of the regulator
so that the window moves smoothly.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Open up the tailgate.
2 Remove the inner trim panel by extracting
the retaining clips first; use a wide blade
screwdriver inserted beneath each retaining
clip position in turn (see illustration).
3 Disconnect the wiring connectors situated
behind the trim panel and disconnect the
washer hose. Also disconnect the wiring
connectors from the heated rear screen
terminals and free the wiring grommets from
the tailgate.
1 Remove the trim panel as described in
Section 13.
2 Temporarily refit the window regulator
handle and lower the window until the lifting
plate is visible.
3 Remove the bolts securing the regulator to
the door and the bolts securing the lifting plate
to the window channel (see illustrations).
4 Raise the window glass and retain it with
adhesive tape. Release the regulator from the
door and remove it through the aperture (see
15.6 Bolt securing the front window
16.2 Removing the tailgate inner
trim panel and clips
Bodywork and fittings 11.9
16.5 Tailgate hinge
16.6 Prise out the spring clips before
removing the support struts from their
balljoint mountings
17.1 Using an Allen key to unscrew the
tailgate lock retaining screws
4 Tie a piece of string to each end of the
wiring then, noting the correct routing of the
wiring harness, release the harness rubber
grommets from the tailgate and withdraw the
wiring. When the end of the wiring appears,
untie the string and leave it in position in the
tailgate; it can then be used on refitting to
draw the wiring into position. Similarly remove
the washer tubing.
5 Using a marker pen, draw around the
outline of each hinge marking its correct
position on the tailgate (see illustration).
6 Have an assistant support the tailgate, then
using a small flat-bladed screwdriver raise the
spring clips and pull the support struts off
their balljoint mountings on the tailgate (see
illustration). Slacken and remove the bolts
securing the hinges to the tailgate and remove
t h e t a i l g a t e f r o m the vehicle. Where
necessary, recover the gaskets fitted between
the hinge and tailgate.
7 Inspect the hinges for signs of wear or
damage and renew if necessary. The hinges
are secured to the vehicle by bolts which can
be accessed once the headlining has been
freed from the trim strip and peeled back. On
refitting ensure that the hinge gasket is in
good condition and secure the hinge in
its balljoint mounting on the tailgate. Note on
Coupe models the upper mounting is of pin
type and the strut is removed by sliding off
the pin; recover the washers and spacers
noting their positions. Raise the second
retaining clip then detach the strut from the
balljoint on the body and remove it from the
unscrew the two lock retaining screws (see
Withdraw the lock and
disconnect the wiring and link rod.
2 To remove the lock cylinder first remove the
trim from the inside of the tailgate, then
working through the aperture extract the
circlip from the inner end of the lock cylinder.
Insert the key then push out the cylinder from
inside and remove from the tailgate.
3 The lock cylinder housing can be removed
with the inner trim removed, by removing the
handle strip then disconnecting the control
rod and pressing out the locking lugs (see
illustrations). The housing can then be
removed from the tailgate.
4 The lock striker can be removed by
unscrewing it (see illustration).
10 Refitting is the reverse of removal,
aligning the hinges with the marks made
before removal.
11 On completion, close the tailgate and
check its alignment with the surrounding
panels. If necessary slight adjustment can be
made by slackening the retaining bolts and
repositioning the tailgate on its hinges. If
necessary, adjust the tailgate rubber buffers
by screwing them in or out.
Support struts
12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the strut is securely
retained by its retaining clips.
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before
fully tightening the striker, close and open the
tailgate two or three times to centralise it.
Tighten the lock retaining screws to the
specified torque.
Support strut
8 Support the tailgate in the open position,
using a stout piece of wood, or with the help
of an assistant.
9 Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver raise
the spring clip, and pull the support strut off
17.3a Removing the screws securing the
tailgate handle strip
1 Open the tailgate and using an Allen key
17.3b Disconnecting the control rod
from the tailgate lock cylinder
1 Open the boot lid and mark the position of
the hinges with a pencil or marker pen.
2 With the help of an assistant unscrew the
17.4 Removing the tailgate lock striker
11.10 Bodywork and fittings
bolts and withdraw the boot lid. Recover the
spacer where fitted.
3 The boot lock and striker are each secured
by two cross-head screws, but when
removing the lock it will be necessary to
unhook the connecting rod.
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the boot lid is central within the
aperture and adjust its position on the hinge
bolts. If necessary, adjust the bootlid rubber
buffers by screwing them in or out. To adjust
the boot lock striker, loosen the mounting
screws then tighten them just sufficiently to
hold the striker in position. Close and re-open
the boot lid and fully tighten the screws.
Adjust the stop rubbers if necessary.
20.6 Exterior mirror control locknut and
control knob on the inside of the door
Boot lid lock
1 Open up the boot, then undo the lock
retaining screws. Remove the lock, and
detach it from the link rod as it is withdrawn.
Recover the plastic cap.
Boot lid lock cylinder
2 Where necessary remove the trim/cover
from the inside of the boot for access to the
rear of the lock.
3 Unclip the link rod from the lock cylinder.
4 Undo the two retaining screws and remove
the lock cylinder assembly from the boot lid.
Recover the lock cylinder sealing ring.
5 It is not possible to separate the cylinder
from the assembly.’
6 Inspect the sealing ring for signs of wear or
damage and renew if necessary.
Boot lid lock
Non-remote control type
1 Prise the plastic cover from inside the door.
2 Unscrew the cross-head screws and
remove the clips.
3 Withdraw the outer cover and mirror.
housing, then lift the rear of the sunroof and
move it rearwards from the front hinges. Stow
the sunroof safely in the luggage compartment.
3 Due to the complexity of the sunroof
mechanism, considerable expertise is needed
to repair, replace or adjust the sunroof
components successfully. Removal of the roof
first requires the headlining to be removed,
which is a complex and tedious operation,
and is not a task to be undertaken lightly.
Therefore, any problems with the sunroof
should be referred to a VW dealer.
Remote control type
4 Pull off the adjusting knob and bellows from
the inside door pull.
5 Remove the door trim panel (Section 13).
6 Unscrew the locknut and remove the
adjusting knob from the bracket (see
illustration). If necessary also remove the
screws and withdraw the bracket from the
7 Prise off the triangular plastic cover then
unscrew the cross-head screws and remove
the clips (see illustration).
8 Withdraw the mirror together with the
adjusting knob and gasket.
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket if necessary.
7 Attach the link rod, then seat the lock and
plastic cap in the boot lid and securely tighten
its retaining bolts.
Boot lid lock cylinder
8 Fit the sealing ring to the lock cylinder
assembly. Insert the assembly into the boot
lid and refit the retaining screws tightening
them securely.
9 Clip the link rod on the lock cylinder and
where necessary refit the trim/cover.
20.7 Removing the triangular plastic cover
to reveal the mirror mounting screws
Removal and refitting of the windscreen
and fixed glass windows is best left to a VW
garage or windscreen specialist who will have
the necessary equipment and expertise to
complete the work properly.
1 The sunroof can be taken out completely as
follows. Turn the rotary knob anti-clockwise
half a turn to release the tension.
2 Press the two release buttons on the knob
Wheel arch liners
and body under-panels
1 The various plastic covers fitted to the
underside of the vehicle are secured in
position by screws, nuts or retaining clips and
removal will be fairly obvious on inspection,
Work methodically around the panel removing
its retaining screws and releasing its retaining
clips until the panel is free and can be
removed from the underside of the vehicle.
Most clips used on the vehicle, except for the
fasteners which are used to secure the
wheelarch liners in position, are simply prised
out of position. The wheelarch liner clips are
released by pressing out their centre pins and
then removing the outer section of the clip;
new clips will be required on refitting if the
centre pins are not recovered.
Body trim strips and badges
2 The various body trim strips and badges
are held in position with special adhesive tape
or pop rivets. Removal of trim attached with
tape requires the trim/badge to be heated, to
soften the adhesive, and then cut away from
the surface. Due to the high risk of damage to
the vehicle’s paintwork during this operation,
it is recommended that this task should be
entrusted to a VW dealer. Removal of trim
secured with pop rivets requires the heads of
the rivets to be removed using a drill of
suitable diameter.
Bodywork and fittings 11.11
24.1 a Remove the screw from the front of
the seat. . .
24.1b . . . then release the spring
tensioned pin
24.2a Remove the screw . . .
24.2b . . . and withdraw the
inner runner cover
24.8 Squab securing screws
(split rear seat)
24.9 Split rear seat central mounting
bracket bolt
24.11 Spring clip on the
centre pivot bracket
24.12 Screws securing the split rear seat
backrest to the luggage compartment floor
the backrest upper hooks from the panel, then
withdraw the backrest from the car.
13 Remove the centre pivot pin, and the seat
backs may be lifted out.
Front seat
Split rear seat
1 Using an Allen key and spanner, remove the
screw from the front of the seat, then release
the spring tensioned pin and withdraw the
seat from the mounting bracket (see
2 Remove the screw and withdraw the inner
runner cover (see illustrations).
3 Slide the seat rearwards from the runners
and remove from the car. Where necessary
disconnect the wiring for the seat heating.
7 To remove the seat squab, pull the rear of
the seats upwards using the plastic pull
handles provided.
8 Tilt the seats right forward, which will allow
access to the retaining screws. Remove the
screws and lift out the seat squabs (see
9 The seat backrests may be removed by first
removing the central mounting bracket bolt
(see illustration).
10 Operate the seat back release mechanism
and tilt the backrest forward.
11 Remove the spring clip from the centre
pivot bracket (see illustration).
12 Now undo the two screws securing each
backrest to the luggage compartment floor
(see illustration).
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
3 On refitting wheel arch liners and underpanels, renew any retaining clips that may
have been broken on removal, and ensure
that the panel is securely retained by all the
relevant clips and screws. On refitting the
body trim strips and badges, clean the body
surface before pressing the tape-secured
type, and use new pop rivets when securing
the other type.
Rear bench seat
4 Remove the covers and mounting screws
from the front of the cushion.
5 Lift the rear of the cushion to disengage the
hooks then withdraw the cushion.
6 Working in the luggage compartment prise
Front seat belt
1 Push the front seat right forward.
2 Pull back the plastic cover from the lower
outer seat belt mounting (see illustration).
3 Count the number of coils in the spring as a
guide for refitting.
1 1 .1 2 Bodywork and fittings
25.2 Pull back the cover from the front
seat belt lower mounting
25.4 Unhooking the spring from the front
seat belt lower mounting
25.7 Removing the plastic cover from the
front seat belt upper mounting
25.8 Pull away the weatherstrip before
removing the rear trim panel
25.9 Front seat belt inertia reel
mounting bolt
25.12 Rear seat belt outer mounting
4 Unhook the spring and gently allow the
tension to be released by allowing the spring
to unwind (see illustration). The spring is
normally tensioned by one complete turn.
5 Remove the spring from the retaining bolt
6 Unscrew the bolt securing the belt to the
inner sill panel.
7 Prise off the plastic cover from the upper
mounting and unscrew the retaining bolt (see
8 Pull away the weatherstrip locally, then
remove the trim panel from the side of the rear
seat for access to the inertia reel (see
illustration). To save time, just the front of the
trim needs to be detached in order to reach
the inertia reel.
9 Unscrew the retaining bolt holding the
inertia reel in place and remove the seat belt
from the car (see illustration).
1 0 The front seat belt central stalk is
removed by unscrewing the mounting bolt.
25.13 Rear seat belt inner mounting
Rear seat belt
11 The rear seat belts are removed in much
the same way as the front belts,
12 The outer mountings are held by one bolt
(see illustration).
13 The inner mounting is undone after lifting
the seat squabs (see illustration).
14 The inertia reel mechanism is held in place
in the double skin of the luggage
compartment, and the upper mounting bolt-is
accessed by removing the plastic cover (see
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal but
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
25.14a Remove the cap for access to the
rear seat belt inertia reel mounting bolt
Interior trim panels
1 The interior trim panels are secured using
either screws or various types of trim
fasteners, usually studs or clips,
2 Check that there are no other panels
overlapping the one to be removed; usually
there is a sequence that has to be followed
that will become obvious on close inspection.
3 Remove all obvious fasteners, such as
screws. If the panel will not come free, it is
held by hidden clips or fasteners. These are
usually situated around the edge of the panel
and can be prised up to release them; note,
Bodywork and fittings 11.13
26.11 Glovebox hinge pins
27.2 Unclipping the rubber boot
from the centre console
27.3 Centre console front mounting screw
however that they can break quite easily so
replacements should be available. The best
way of releasing such clips without the correct
type of tool, is to use a large flat-bladed
screwdriver. Note in many cases that the
adjacent sealing strip must be prised back to
release a panel.
4 When removing a panel, n e v e r u s e
excessive force or the panel may be
damaged; always check carefully that all
fasteners have been removed or released
before attempting to withdraw a panel.
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; secure the fasteners by pressing
them firmly into place and ensure that all
disturbed components are correctly secured
to prevent rattles.
and the door, tailgate and sunroof aperture
sealing strips have been prised clear.
9 Note that headlining removal requires
considerable skill and experience if it is to be
carried out without damage and is therefore
best entrusted to an expert.
6 If necessary remove the retaining plate and
the special nut from the facia.
10 The glovebox forms part of the facia panel
and it is only possible to remove the lid.
11 Open up the glovebox lid and release the
check stop, then remove the hinge pins and
remove the lid from the facia (see
12 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the seal is correctly located between
the console and the facia panel.
8 The headlining is clipped to the roof and
can be withdrawn only once all fittings such
as the grab handles, sun visors, sunroof (if
fitted), windscreen and rear quarterwindows
and related trim panels have been removed
1 A centre console is fitted to some models.
First disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Unclip and remove the rubber boot from
the centre console (see illustration). I f
necessary remove the gear lever knob.
3 Remove the screws attaching the front of the
console to the facia panel (see illustration).
4 Pull the console to the rear so that the
guides are unclipped from the pins on the
5 Withdraw the console from the passenger
side and recover the seal. If the gear lever
knob was not removed, feed the rubber boot
through the gear lever hole (see illustration).
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2 Where fitted, remove the centre console as
described in Section 27.
3 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove
the passenger side shelf/trim panel from
beneath the facia panel. Also disconnect the
diagnostic socket wiring plugs. Note that a pin
on the front of the shelf locates in a rubber
grommet (see illustrations).
4 Remove the steering wheel, combination
switches, and steering lock with reference to
Chapter 10, Section 16. It is not necessary to
remove the steering column completely.
5 Remove the instrument panel as described
in Chapter 12.
6 Remove the radio as described in
Chapter 12.
7 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise away
the trim plate covering the heater controls.
8 Unscrew the retaining screws and pull the
heater control assembly together with cables
from the facia panel.
27.5 Feeding the gear lever rubber boot
through the centre console
28.3a Passenger side shelf/trim panel
mounting screws
28.3b Removing the passenger side
shelf/trim panel
6 The passenger compartment floor carpet is
in one piece and is secured at its edges by
screws or clips, usually the same fasteners
used to secure the various adjoining trim
7 Carpet removal and refitting is reasonably
straightforward but very time-consuming
because all adjoining trim panels must be
removed first, as must components such as
the seats, the centre console and seat belt
lower anchorages.
11.14 Bodywork and fittings
28.3c Disconnecting the diagnostic socket
wiring plugs
28.3d Shelf/trim panel front pin
and rubber grommet
28.13 Facia panel mounting screw
next to the steering column
9 Disconnect the wiring from the switches
and the cigarette lighter, noting the location of
each wire (see Haynes Hint).
11 Unscrew the facia panel lower mounting
12 With the glovebox open, unscrew the
mounting screw from inside the glovebox
13 Unscrew the mounting screw located next
to the steering column (see illustration).
14 Working inside the engine compartment,
unscrew the two mounting nuts on the
15 With the help of an assistant, carefully
ease the facia panel away from the bulkhead
into the passenger compartment. As it is
withdrawn, release the wiring harness from its
retaining clips on the rear of the facia, whilst
noting its correct routing (see Haynes Hint).
Feed the heater control panel through the hole
in the facia, and disconnect the air ducts as
10 Disconnect the loudspeaker wiring from
the left-hand side of the facia.
18 Refitting is a reversal of removal. When
locating the facia on the bulkhead, insert the
central pin in the special guide and the
mounting studs in the holes. Make sure that
all of the air ducts are correctly reconnected.
On completion, reconnect the battery and
check that all the electrical components and
switches function correctly.
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