Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings Contents Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . .19 Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . .18 Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Door exterior handle and lock components - removal and refitting . .14 Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15 Exterior mirror and associated components - removal and refitting .20 Facia panel assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Front bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Interior trim and glovebox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Rear bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Sliding roof runner lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Sunroof - general information and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . .22 Tailgate and support struts (Hatchback and Coupe models) removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Underbody sealant check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Windscreen, tailgate and fixed windows - general information . . . . .21 Degrees of difficulty Specifications Torque wrench settings Tailgate lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .._....... Windowregulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Door ................................................. Exterior handle: To outside of door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . To edge of door ,.........,...............,...........,. Bumpers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seat belts: Reel ................................................. Stalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anchor................................................. Tailgate lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nm 23 8 55 Ibfft 17 6 41 2 8 5 1.5 6 4 40 60 40 23 30 44 30 17 11.2 Bodywork and fittings 1 General information The bodyshell is made of pressed-steel sections, and is available in three-door Hatchback, three-door Coupe and two-door Saloon versions. Most components are welded together, but some use is made of structural adhesives; the front wings are bolted on. The bonnet, door, and some other vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated metal, and are further protected by being coated with an anti-chip primer before being sprayed. Extensive use is made of plastic materials, mainly in the interior, but also in exterior components, The front and rear bumpers and front grille are injection-moulded from a synthetic material that is very strong and yet light. Plastic components such as wheel arch liners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to improve the body’s resistance to corrosion. The general condition of a vehicle’s bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and under-frame need washing in the same way, to remove any accumulated mud which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Strangely enough, the best time to clean the under-frame and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the under-frame is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically, and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a waxbased underbody protective coating, it is a good idea to have the whole of the under-frame of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. Note that these methods should not be used on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just before Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and repair any damage to the wax coating. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois leather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special nonabrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish. Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by proprietary glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass. Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose. Repairs of minor scratches in bodywork If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section. Repairs of dents in bodywork When deep denting of the vehicle’s bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being “belled-out”. Bodywork and fittings 11.3 Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has a double skin, or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound” bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good “key” for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying. Repairs of rust ho/es or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area, except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust-inhibiting paint: if the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved with aluminium or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath. Bodywork repairs filling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking, those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair which can be used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board - measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker’s instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the surface. When a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will become sticky and begin to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute intervals, until the level of the filler is just proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40-grade production paper, and finishing with a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-anddry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage. At this stage, the “dent” should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely “feathered” edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of primer - this will show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and again smooth the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners, to form a thin paste which is ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water, and allow to dry fully. The repair area is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape, and several thickness of newspaper, for the masking operations. Before starting to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint, rather than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying in the centre of the repair area, and then, using a circular motion, work outwards until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish. Plastic components With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major body panels), rectification of more serious damage to such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete components. Repair of such damage by the DIY owner is not feasible, owing to the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together, using a hot air gun to heat up 11 11.4 Bodywork and fittings and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed, and the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair material which can be used directly from the tube. Once mixed in equal proportions, this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting. If the owner is renewing a complete component himself, or if he has repaired it with epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time, the use of a universal paint was not possible, owing to the complex range of plastics met with in body component applications. Standard paints, generally speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but professional matched paints, to match any plastic or rubber finish, can be obtained from some dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a preprimer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically the method of use is to first apply the pre-primer to the component concerned, and allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, and left to dry for about an hour before finally applying the special-coloured top coat. The result is a correctly coloured component, where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that standard paint does not normally posses. Where serious damage has occurred, or large areas need renewal due to neglect, it means that complete new panels will need 7.4 Front bumper mounting bolt welding-in, and this is best left to professionals. If the damage is due to impact, it will also be necessary to check completely the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can only be carried out accurately by a VW dealer using special jigs. If the body is left misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the car will not handle properly, and secondly, uneven stresses will be imposed on the steering, suspension possibly and transmission, causing abnormal wear, or complete failure, particularly to such items as the tyres. Removal 1 Support the bonnet in its open position. 2 Release the clips from the top of the grille by pressing them down with a screwdriver (see illustration). 3 Move the top of the grille forwards then lift it from the lower mounting holes in the front valance (see illustration). Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 6.2 Releasing the clips at the top of the radiator grille with a screwdriver 8.1 Rear bumper upper mounting bolt and cover Removal 1 Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Apply the handbrake. 2 Remove the radiator grille (see Section 6). 3 Unscrew the three upper mounting bolts from the top edge of the front bumper. 4 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts, then pull the bumper forwards and disengage it from the side guide plates (see illustration). Where headlamp washers are fitted, disconnect the tubing from the jets. Refitting 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Removal Hatchback and Coupe models 1 Open the tailgate then prise out the covers and unscrew the upper mounting bolts from the top edge of the rear bumper (see illustration). 2 Unscrew the lower mounting bolts then pull the rear bumper rearwards and disengage it from the side guide plates (see illustration). 6.3 Removing the radiator grille Bodywork and fittings 11.5 Saloon models 3 Remove the number plate lights from the rear bumper as described in Chapter 12. 4 Unscrew the mounting bolts securing the rear bumper to the underbody bracket. If necessary, access can be improved by raising the rear of the car and supporting on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 5 Pull the rear bumper rearwards and disengage it from the side guide plates. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Removal 1 Support the bonnet in its open position, and place some cardboard or rags beneath the corners by the hinges. 2 Mark the location of the hinges with a pencil then loosen the four retaining bolts. 3 With the help of an assistant, release the stay, remove the bolts, and withdraw the bonnet from the car. Refitting and adjustment 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust the hinges to their original positions and check that the bonnet is level with the surrounding bodywork. If necessary adjust the height of the bonnet front edge by screwing the rubber buffers in or out, and also adjust the bonnet lock if necessary with reference to Section 11. 10.3 Bonnet release handle beneath the left-hand side of the facia 11 .1 The bonnet lock located on the engine compartment front crossmember 2 Inside the car, remove the lower facia panel on the left-hand side under the facia. 3 Remove the bonnet catch release handle and bracket (two screws), then disconnect the cable (see illustration). Tie a piece of thin wire or cord to the inside end and pull that into the place the cable occupied to make fitting a new cable more simple. Release the cable from the retainers in the engine compartment and release the rubber grommet from the bulkhead. and repositioning the lock within the elongated holes. The safety catch and antirattle spring should be checked for condition at the same time. Check that the bonnet is supported by the rubber buffers when shut, and if necessary adjust the height of the buffers by screwing them in or out. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the cable is positioned without any sharp bends. Removal Removal 1 Open the door then prise off the special washer and remove the check strap pivot pin (see illustration). 2 Mark the position of the door hinge brackets in relation to each other. 3 Support the door then unscrew and remove the lower hinge bolt followed by the upper hinge bolt, and withdraw the door from the car (see illustration). 1 To remove the lock, open the bonnet then mark the position of the bonnet lock on the engine compartment front crossmember (see illustration). 2 Unscrew the mounting bolts, withdraw the lock and disconnect the cable. Removal Refitting 1 Open the bonnet, unbolt the bonnet lock from the engine compartment front crossmember and disconnect the cable. 3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if necessary adjust the height of the bonnet front edge by loosening the retaining bolts 12.1 Door check strap and pivot pin Refitting and adjustment 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if necessary adjust the position of the door on the hinges so that, when closed, it is level with the surrounding bodywork and central within the body aperture. Lubricate the hinges with a little oil and the check strap with grease. If necessary adjust the position of the door striker. 12.3 Door upper hinge bolt 11.6 Bodywork and fittings 13.1 Removing the locking knob 13.2 Slide the inner handle surround to the rear to remove it 13.3a Removing the exterior mirror control knob. . . 13.3b . . . and boot 13.4a Prise out the trim cover. . . 13.4b . . . unscrew the mounting screws. . . 13.4c . . . and release the door pull from the trim 13.5a Prise off the cover . . . 13.5b . . . remove the screw. . . 13.5c . . . and withdraw the window regulator handle from the splines 13.7 Cross-head screw securing the inner trim panel to the door 5 Note the position of the window regulator handle with the window shut then prise off the cover, remove the cross-head screw and withdraw the handle (see illustrations). 6 Where applicable, remove the self-tapping screws and withdraw the storage compart- ment panel. This is not required on all models. 7 Prise out the stoppers and remove the cross-head screws from the trim panel (see illustration). 8 Using a wide blade screwdriver carefully prise the trim panel clips from the door inner Removal 1 If required, unscrew and remove the locking knob from the top of the inner trim panel (see illustration). This is not essential as the trim panel is slotted to allow it to be removed with the knob in position. 2 Remove the inner handle surround by sliding it to the rear (see illustration). 3 Remove the exterior mirror control knob and boot from the top of the door pull (see illustrations). 4 Prise the trim cover from the door pull, remove the cross-head screws, then move the rear of the door pull outwards. Note the location lug (see illustrations). Bodywork and fittings 11.7 13.8 Releasing the inner trim panel from the weatherseal 13.9 Removing the window regulator handle packing 13.10 Peeling the protective sheet from the door 14.1 Screw securing the exterior handle to the rear edge of the door 14.2 Removing the plastic strip insert from the exterior door handle 14.3a Remove the screw. . . 14.3b . . . then release the exterior handle from the door 14.5 Packing around the inner door handle panel taking care not to damage the trim. Remove the panel and release it from the upper inner door weatherseal (see illustration). 9 Remove the window regulator handle packing (see illustration). 10 If necessary peel the protective sheet from the door (see illustration). The trim clips are fitted over the sheet - it will be necessary to cut round them to prevent tearing the sheet. Refitting 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 5 Remove the trim panel, locking knob and protective sheeting (refer to Section 13) then remove the packing from around the inner door handle (see illustration). The locking knob must also be unscrewed from the control rod before removing the door lock. 6 Using a screwdriver release the inner door handle from the door inner panel, then unhook it from the control rod (see illustrations). 14.6a Use a screwdriver to release the inner door handle. . . 14.6b . . . then unhook it from the control rod Door lock Removal Exterior handle Removal 1 Open the door and unscrew the single screw securing the handle to the rear edge of the door (see illustration). 2 Using a small screwdriver lever the plastic strip insert from the exterior door handle (see illustration). 3 Remove the cross-head screw and withdraw the exterior handle from the door (see illustrations). Note: The handle is not connected directly with the door lock. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check the sealing gasket and fit a new one if necessary. 11.8 Bodywork and fittings 14.7a Unscrew the mounting screws . . . 14.7b . . . and withdraw the lock from the door 15.3a Bolts securing the window regulator to the door 15.3b Bolts securing the lifting plate to the window channel 15.4 Removing the window regulator through the door aperture 15.5 Unclip the mouldings from the window aperture 7 Unscrew the two screws securing the door lock to the rear edge of the door, then withdraw the lock while guiding the locking control rod and main control rods from the door (see illustrations). Keep the locking knob engaged with the lock. 5 With the window fully lowered unclip the inner and outer mouldings from the window aperture (see illustration). 6 Remove the bolt and screw and pull out the front window channel abutting the corner window (see illustration). 7 Withdraw the corner window and seal. 8 Lift the window glass from the door. Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the locking knob control rod remains engaged with the lock while guiding it through the hole in the top of the door. Also make sure the main control rod is located on the inner (protective sheet) side of the window channel before connecting it to the inner door handle. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If the glass is being renewed, make sure that the lift channel is located in the same position as in the old glass. Ensure that the inner cable is adequately lubricated with grease and if necessary adjust the position of the regulator so that the window moves smoothly. Removal Tailgate 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Open up the tailgate. 2 Remove the inner trim panel by extracting the retaining clips first; use a wide blade screwdriver inserted beneath each retaining clip position in turn (see illustration). 3 Disconnect the wiring connectors situated behind the trim panel and disconnect the washer hose. Also disconnect the wiring connectors from the heated rear screen terminals and free the wiring grommets from the tailgate. Removal 1 Remove the trim panel as described in Section 13. 2 Temporarily refit the window regulator handle and lower the window until the lifting plate is visible. 3 Remove the bolts securing the regulator to the door and the bolts securing the lifting plate to the window channel (see illustrations). 4 Raise the window glass and retain it with adhesive tape. Release the regulator from the door and remove it through the aperture (see illustration). 15.6 Bolt securing the front window channel 16.2 Removing the tailgate inner trim panel and clips Bodywork and fittings 11.9 16.5 Tailgate hinge 16.6 Prise out the spring clips before removing the support struts from their balljoint mountings 17.1 Using an Allen key to unscrew the tailgate lock retaining screws 4 Tie a piece of string to each end of the wiring then, noting the correct routing of the wiring harness, release the harness rubber grommets from the tailgate and withdraw the wiring. When the end of the wiring appears, untie the string and leave it in position in the tailgate; it can then be used on refitting to draw the wiring into position. Similarly remove the washer tubing. 5 Using a marker pen, draw around the outline of each hinge marking its correct position on the tailgate (see illustration). 6 Have an assistant support the tailgate, then using a small flat-bladed screwdriver raise the spring clips and pull the support struts off their balljoint mountings on the tailgate (see illustration). Slacken and remove the bolts securing the hinges to the tailgate and remove t h e t a i l g a t e f r o m the vehicle. Where necessary, recover the gaskets fitted between the hinge and tailgate. 7 Inspect the hinges for signs of wear or damage and renew if necessary. The hinges are secured to the vehicle by bolts which can be accessed once the headlining has been freed from the trim strip and peeled back. On refitting ensure that the hinge gasket is in good condition and secure the hinge in position. its balljoint mounting on the tailgate. Note on Coupe models the upper mounting is of pin type and the strut is removed by sliding off the pin; recover the washers and spacers noting their positions. Raise the second retaining clip then detach the strut from the balljoint on the body and remove it from the vehicle. unscrew the two lock retaining screws (see illustration). Withdraw the lock and disconnect the wiring and link rod. 2 To remove the lock cylinder first remove the trim from the inside of the tailgate, then working through the aperture extract the circlip from the inner end of the lock cylinder. Insert the key then push out the cylinder from inside and remove from the tailgate. 3 The lock cylinder housing can be removed with the inner trim removed, by removing the handle strip then disconnecting the control rod and pressing out the locking lugs (see illustrations). The housing can then be removed from the tailgate. 4 The lock striker can be removed by unscrewing it (see illustration). Refitting Tailgate 10 Refitting is the reverse of removal, aligning the hinges with the marks made before removal. 11 On completion, close the tailgate and check its alignment with the surrounding panels. If necessary slight adjustment can be made by slackening the retaining bolts and repositioning the tailgate on its hinges. If necessary, adjust the tailgate rubber buffers by screwing them in or out. Support struts 12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, ensuring that the strut is securely retained by its retaining clips. Refitting 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before fully tightening the striker, close and open the tailgate two or three times to centralise it. Tighten the lock retaining screws to the specified torque. Support strut 8 Support the tailgate in the open position, using a stout piece of wood, or with the help of an assistant. 9 Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver raise the spring clip, and pull the support strut off 17.3a Removing the screws securing the tailgate handle strip Removal 1 Open the tailgate and using an Allen key 17.3b Disconnecting the control rod from the tailgate lock cylinder 1 Open the boot lid and mark the position of the hinges with a pencil or marker pen. 2 With the help of an assistant unscrew the 17.4 Removing the tailgate lock striker 11.10 Bodywork and fittings bolts and withdraw the boot lid. Recover the spacer where fitted. 3 The boot lock and striker are each secured by two cross-head screws, but when removing the lock it will be necessary to unhook the connecting rod. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the boot lid is central within the aperture and adjust its position on the hinge bolts. If necessary, adjust the bootlid rubber buffers by screwing them in or out. To adjust the boot lock striker, loosen the mounting screws then tighten them just sufficiently to hold the striker in position. Close and re-open the boot lid and fully tighten the screws. Adjust the stop rubbers if necessary. 20.6 Exterior mirror control locknut and control knob on the inside of the door Removal Removal Boot lid lock 1 Open up the boot, then undo the lock retaining screws. Remove the lock, and detach it from the link rod as it is withdrawn. Recover the plastic cap. Boot lid lock cylinder 2 Where necessary remove the trim/cover from the inside of the boot for access to the rear of the lock. 3 Unclip the link rod from the lock cylinder. 4 Undo the two retaining screws and remove the lock cylinder assembly from the boot lid. Recover the lock cylinder sealing ring. 5 It is not possible to separate the cylinder from the assembly.’ 6 Inspect the sealing ring for signs of wear or damage and renew if necessary. Refitting Boot lid lock Non-remote control type 1 Prise the plastic cover from inside the door. 2 Unscrew the cross-head screws and remove the clips. 3 Withdraw the outer cover and mirror. housing, then lift the rear of the sunroof and move it rearwards from the front hinges. Stow the sunroof safely in the luggage compartment. 3 Due to the complexity of the sunroof mechanism, considerable expertise is needed to repair, replace or adjust the sunroof components successfully. Removal of the roof first requires the headlining to be removed, which is a complex and tedious operation, and is not a task to be undertaken lightly. Therefore, any problems with the sunroof should be referred to a VW dealer. Remote control type 4 Pull off the adjusting knob and bellows from the inside door pull. 5 Remove the door trim panel (Section 13). 6 Unscrew the locknut and remove the adjusting knob from the bracket (see illustration). If necessary also remove the screws and withdraw the bracket from the door. 7 Prise off the triangular plastic cover then unscrew the cross-head screws and remove the clips (see illustration). 8 Withdraw the mirror together with the adjusting knob and gasket. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a new gasket if necessary. 7 Attach the link rod, then seat the lock and plastic cap in the boot lid and securely tighten its retaining bolts. Boot lid lock cylinder 8 Fit the sealing ring to the lock cylinder assembly. Insert the assembly into the boot lid and refit the retaining screws tightening them securely. 9 Clip the link rod on the lock cylinder and where necessary refit the trim/cover. 20.7 Removing the triangular plastic cover to reveal the mirror mounting screws Removal and refitting of the windscreen and fixed glass windows is best left to a VW garage or windscreen specialist who will have the necessary equipment and expertise to complete the work properly. 1 The sunroof can be taken out completely as follows. Turn the rotary knob anti-clockwise half a turn to release the tension. 2 Press the two release buttons on the knob Removal Wheel arch liners and body under-panels 1 The various plastic covers fitted to the underside of the vehicle are secured in position by screws, nuts or retaining clips and removal will be fairly obvious on inspection, Work methodically around the panel removing its retaining screws and releasing its retaining clips until the panel is free and can be removed from the underside of the vehicle. Most clips used on the vehicle, except for the fasteners which are used to secure the wheelarch liners in position, are simply prised out of position. The wheelarch liner clips are released by pressing out their centre pins and then removing the outer section of the clip; new clips will be required on refitting if the centre pins are not recovered. Body trim strips and badges 2 The various body trim strips and badges are held in position with special adhesive tape or pop rivets. Removal of trim attached with tape requires the trim/badge to be heated, to soften the adhesive, and then cut away from the surface. Due to the high risk of damage to the vehicle’s paintwork during this operation, it is recommended that this task should be entrusted to a VW dealer. Removal of trim secured with pop rivets requires the heads of the rivets to be removed using a drill of suitable diameter. Bodywork and fittings 11.11 24.1 a Remove the screw from the front of the seat. . . 24.1b . . . then release the spring tensioned pin 24.2a Remove the screw . . . 24.2b . . . and withdraw the inner runner cover 24.8 Squab securing screws (split rear seat) 24.9 Split rear seat central mounting bracket bolt 24.11 Spring clip on the centre pivot bracket 24.12 Screws securing the split rear seat backrest to the luggage compartment floor the backrest upper hooks from the panel, then withdraw the backrest from the car. 13 Remove the centre pivot pin, and the seat backs may be lifted out. Front seat Split rear seat Refitting 1 Using an Allen key and spanner, remove the screw from the front of the seat, then release the spring tensioned pin and withdraw the seat from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 2 Remove the screw and withdraw the inner runner cover (see illustrations). 3 Slide the seat rearwards from the runners and remove from the car. Where necessary disconnect the wiring for the seat heating. 7 To remove the seat squab, pull the rear of the seats upwards using the plastic pull handles provided. 8 Tilt the seats right forward, which will allow access to the retaining screws. Remove the screws and lift out the seat squabs (see illustration). 9 The seat backrests may be removed by first removing the central mounting bracket bolt (see illustration). 10 Operate the seat back release mechanism and tilt the backrest forward. 11 Remove the spring clip from the centre pivot bracket (see illustration). 12 Now undo the two screws securing each backrest to the luggage compartment floor (see illustration). 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refitting 3 On refitting wheel arch liners and underpanels, renew any retaining clips that may have been broken on removal, and ensure that the panel is securely retained by all the relevant clips and screws. On refitting the body trim strips and badges, clean the body surface before pressing the tape-secured type, and use new pop rivets when securing the other type. Removal Rear bench seat 4 Remove the covers and mounting screws from the front of the cushion. 5 Lift the rear of the cushion to disengage the hooks then withdraw the cushion. 6 Working in the luggage compartment prise Removal Front seat belt 1 Push the front seat right forward. 2 Pull back the plastic cover from the lower outer seat belt mounting (see illustration). 3 Count the number of coils in the spring as a guide for refitting. 11 1 1 .1 2 Bodywork and fittings 25.2 Pull back the cover from the front seat belt lower mounting 25.4 Unhooking the spring from the front seat belt lower mounting 25.7 Removing the plastic cover from the front seat belt upper mounting 25.8 Pull away the weatherstrip before removing the rear trim panel 25.9 Front seat belt inertia reel mounting bolt 25.12 Rear seat belt outer mounting 4 Unhook the spring and gently allow the tension to be released by allowing the spring to unwind (see illustration). The spring is normally tensioned by one complete turn. 5 Remove the spring from the retaining bolt head. 6 Unscrew the bolt securing the belt to the inner sill panel. 7 Prise off the plastic cover from the upper mounting and unscrew the retaining bolt (see illustration). 8 Pull away the weatherstrip locally, then remove the trim panel from the side of the rear seat for access to the inertia reel (see illustration). To save time, just the front of the trim needs to be detached in order to reach the inertia reel. 9 Unscrew the retaining bolt holding the inertia reel in place and remove the seat belt from the car (see illustration). 1 0 The front seat belt central stalk is removed by unscrewing the mounting bolt. 25.13 Rear seat belt inner mounting Rear seat belt 11 The rear seat belts are removed in much the same way as the front belts, 12 The outer mountings are held by one bolt (see illustration). 13 The inner mounting is undone after lifting the seat squabs (see illustration). 14 The inertia reel mechanism is held in place in the double skin of the luggage compartment, and the upper mounting bolt-is accessed by removing the plastic cover (see illustrations). Refitting 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. 25.14a Remove the cap for access to the rear seat belt inertia reel mounting bolt Interior trim panels 1 The interior trim panels are secured using either screws or various types of trim fasteners, usually studs or clips, 2 Check that there are no other panels overlapping the one to be removed; usually there is a sequence that has to be followed that will become obvious on close inspection. 3 Remove all obvious fasteners, such as screws. If the panel will not come free, it is held by hidden clips or fasteners. These are usually situated around the edge of the panel and can be prised up to release them; note, Bodywork and fittings 11.13 26.11 Glovebox hinge pins 27.2 Unclipping the rubber boot from the centre console 27.3 Centre console front mounting screw however that they can break quite easily so replacements should be available. The best way of releasing such clips without the correct type of tool, is to use a large flat-bladed screwdriver. Note in many cases that the adjacent sealing strip must be prised back to release a panel. 4 When removing a panel, n e v e r u s e excessive force or the panel may be damaged; always check carefully that all fasteners have been removed or released before attempting to withdraw a panel. 5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; secure the fasteners by pressing them firmly into place and ensure that all disturbed components are correctly secured to prevent rattles. and the door, tailgate and sunroof aperture sealing strips have been prised clear. 9 Note that headlining removal requires considerable skill and experience if it is to be carried out without damage and is therefore best entrusted to an expert. 6 If necessary remove the retaining plate and the special nut from the facia. Glovebox 10 The glovebox forms part of the facia panel and it is only possible to remove the lid. 11 Open up the glovebox lid and release the check stop, then remove the hinge pins and remove the lid from the facia (see illustration). 12 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that the seal is correctly located between the console and the facia panel. Removal 8 The headlining is clipped to the roof and can be withdrawn only once all fittings such as the grab handles, sun visors, sunroof (if fitted), windscreen and rear quarterwindows and related trim panels have been removed 1 A centre console is fitted to some models. First disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Unclip and remove the rubber boot from the centre console (see illustration). I f necessary remove the gear lever knob. 3 Remove the screws attaching the front of the console to the facia panel (see illustration). 4 Pull the console to the rear so that the guides are unclipped from the pins on the floor. 5 Withdraw the console from the passenger side and recover the seal. If the gear lever knob was not removed, feed the rubber boot through the gear lever hole (see illustration). 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2 Where fitted, remove the centre console as described in Section 27. 3 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the passenger side shelf/trim panel from beneath the facia panel. Also disconnect the diagnostic socket wiring plugs. Note that a pin on the front of the shelf locates in a rubber grommet (see illustrations). 4 Remove the steering wheel, combination switches, and steering lock with reference to Chapter 10, Section 16. It is not necessary to remove the steering column completely. 5 Remove the instrument panel as described in Chapter 12. 6 Remove the radio as described in Chapter 12. 7 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise away the trim plate covering the heater controls. 8 Unscrew the retaining screws and pull the heater control assembly together with cables from the facia panel. 27.5 Feeding the gear lever rubber boot through the centre console 28.3a Passenger side shelf/trim panel mounting screws 28.3b Removing the passenger side shelf/trim panel Carpets 6 The passenger compartment floor carpet is in one piece and is secured at its edges by screws or clips, usually the same fasteners used to secure the various adjoining trim panels. 7 Carpet removal and refitting is reasonably straightforward but very time-consuming because all adjoining trim panels must be removed first, as must components such as the seats, the centre console and seat belt lower anchorages. Headlining Removal 11.14 Bodywork and fittings 28.3c Disconnecting the diagnostic socket wiring plugs 28.3d Shelf/trim panel front pin and rubber grommet 28.13 Facia panel mounting screw next to the steering column 9 Disconnect the wiring from the switches and the cigarette lighter, noting the location of each wire (see Haynes Hint). 11 Unscrew the facia panel lower mounting screws. 12 With the glovebox open, unscrew the mounting screw from inside the glovebox compartment. 13 Unscrew the mounting screw located next to the steering column (see illustration). 14 Working inside the engine compartment, unscrew the two mounting nuts on the bulkhead. 15 With the help of an assistant, carefully ease the facia panel away from the bulkhead into the passenger compartment. As it is withdrawn, release the wiring harness from its retaining clips on the rear of the facia, whilst noting its correct routing (see Haynes Hint). Feed the heater control panel through the hole in the facia, and disconnect the air ducts as necessary. 10 Disconnect the loudspeaker wiring from the left-hand side of the facia. Refitting 18 Refitting is a reversal of removal. When locating the facia on the bulkhead, insert the central pin in the special guide and the mounting studs in the holes. Make sure that all of the air ducts are correctly reconnected. On completion, reconnect the battery and check that all the electrical components and switches function correctly.