Part# C3135/C3150
2008-Up Challenger 8-Point Roll Bar
Installation Instructions
Please read the instructions completely BEFORE starting this project.
Competition Engineering 8-Point Roll Bars are not designed for use in vehicles where the stock floor
has been removed. Check your sanctioning body's rulebook for installation guidelines.
To help you install this 8-Point Roll Bar; we've provided you with this step-by-step instruction manual.
These directions are a general guideline for a typical roll bar installation and are not written specifically
for your application. If you have installed a roll bar before, this will be a quick refresher course.
The installation process will involve fitting the bar components into the racecar, trimming the bars to fit
and then tack welding the tubing together before making the final welds. By following this procedure,
any minor mistakes can be corrected easily and with the smallest loss of valuable time.
This Roll Bar has been designed to eliminate some of the more critical operations for you, the
installer. Some of the tubes may have had the notches roughed in for you but will still require some
minor trimming to meet your specific needs. Refinement of the notches should be done as carefully as
possible. We recommend using a hand grinder or if possible a holesaw type tube notcher to prepare
the ends of the tube for proper fit. The notches should allow for a slight gap to help maximize weld
penetration. Also make sure to dress the notched end of the tube with a grinder or hand file to remove
burrs and provide a chamfer for improved weld appearance.
The Chrome-moly roll bar (p/n C3150) must be TIG welded. We recommend that all welds be done
with the approved MIG or TIG welding process. A machine with 130-amps or higher should be used.
If you are unsure about your welding abilities, have a professional welder complete the installation.
Follow all safety guidelines that are provided with the equipment you are using.
Always wear eye protection.
NOTE: Always be aware of fuel line locations.
For Technical Assistance, call Competition Engineering's Tech Line at
(203) 458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time
80 Carter Drive • Guilford, CT 06437
Phone: (203) 453-5200 • Fax: (203) 453-6906
Rev A
Visit Us At www.competitionengineering.com
Installation Instructions Cont. 8-Pt Roll Bar 2008-UP Challenger
Page 2 of 5
I. Material parts list with identifying names
II. List of tools required
III. Step-by-step instructions
IV. Illustration
1) Main Hoop
2) Formed Door Struts
1) Main Hoop/Harness Cross-brace
8) 6"x6" Plates
2) Formed Rear Struts
2) Main Hoop Diagonal Supports 39.5"
6) Gussets
Power Band Saw or Hand hacksaw to shorten tubing
Body Grinder with coarse wheel to remove paint and rust. Also to refine tube notches.
MIG or TIG Welder with 130 amp minimum rating
Protective Face Shield for grinding and welding
Sheetmetal Shears to modify or remove interior panels.
Die Grinder or Electric Drill with rotary file to notch tube ends.
Tape Measure, Hammer, C-Clamps, Locking Pliers, Magic Marker
4 Jack Stands to support vehicle
Carpenter's Level and Angle Finder
Bench Vise to hold tubing while grinding and cutting.
For a professional looking installation we highly recommend the following materials and tools:
.030"-.035" Mild steel welding wire
Thin cardboard to cover the windows. This protects the glass from welding and grinder sparks.
80-Grit sandpaper to remove paint and light surface rust
Holesaw type tube notcher
Scrap pieces of sheetmetal to protect the headliner during welding.
3 of
4 of
NOTE: Always disconnect BOTH battery cables before welding.
NOTE: Always check for fuel lines under the vehicle before welding, Remove or isolate as
1. Begin the installation process by removing the interior from the vehicle. This includes, front and
rear seats, carpet and sound deadening.
2. Install cardboard or other protective material over all exposed interior glass. Don't forget to cover
up your gauges and radio if they are installed. Grinder and welding sparks go everywhere.
3. Jack-up the vehicle and support it in four places with approved jack stands. You want to take
extra time to make sure the vehicle is level from front to back and side to side. Steel shims can
be used between the jack-stands and the chassis to achieve proper level.
Note: Do not let the chassis droop on the jack-stands. If this is allowed to happen during
the roll bar installation this droop will become permanent.
4. Next trial fit the main hoop. Take a measurement from the headliner to the mounting point for the
base of the main hoop. Turn the main hoop upside down on the shop floor and measure from the
floor to the end of the hoop leg. Mark the hoop legs at the dimension you measured in the car.
Cut the tubes at this mark.
5. With the driver's seat installed and the driver seated with helmet on, determine the position of the
main hoop. Position the 6”X6” plate under the hoop legs and mark where the plate will be welded.
Remove all paint and seam seal. It may be necessary to form the plate to conform to the floor.
Once the plate is properly fitted, tack weld it in place. NOTE: It is recommended that the main
hoop be no further than 6" from the back of the driver's helmet. Check your sanctioning bodies
rule book.
6.Trial fit the main hoop in the car. Try to align the vertical positions of the main hoop with the door
pillar. Make sure it is centered in the vehicle by measuring from the door jam to the edge of the
hoop on each side. If it fits snug, mark the leg positions on the floor with a marker. Remove the
hoop from the car. Grind the area around the Main Hoop Plate.
7. Re-install the Main Hoop in the car, re-check the position of the Main Hoop and tack weld it
to the previously installed Main Hoop Floor Plates.
Note: The angle of the main hoop should match the angle of the (rear) of the door opening.
Note: Ensure fuel lines have been removed or isolated and protected from sparks and
welding heat.
8. Now install the rear struts. The rear struts connect the main hoop with the rear of the car. They
should be installed parallel to each other and directly over the rear frame rails.
9. Decide where the rear struts will be attached to the main hoop. Refer to sanctioning body rules.
10. Mark the position on the hoop.
a. Take a measurement from the mark on the main hoop to the desired end point for the rear
b. The rear package tray panel may need to be trimmed in order for the rear strut to pass through
to the trunk floor.
11. Cut the struts to this dimension. Remember to take into account the angle needed, if any, on the
end of the tube.
Note: Before beginning to tack weld the rear struts in place, check the fit of the struts
against the Roll Bar Main Hoop.
Note: You should have isolated or removed the fuel lines by this time.
12. The Driver’s Side and Passenger’s Side, Rear Strut Floor Plates should be used over the rear
frame.These plates are to be located as far back as possible.
13. Trace around the rear strut mounting plates with a marker.
Installation Instructions Cont. 8-Pt Roll Bars
Page 4 of 5
14. Remove any paint, dirt, grease, and seam seal that might hinder welding.
15. Tack weld the Rear Strut Floor Plates and Rear Struts in place. Check fit, appearance and
clearances on the Rear Struts. If you are satisfied with all these things, finish weld the Rear Strut
Mounting Plates and Rear Struts.
16. With the driver seated, measure for the height of the main hoop cross-brace. This is the tube
that mounts between the legs of the main hoop and supports the driver's seat in the event of
impact. It also acts as a structural member for the shoulder harness. Follow your sanctioning
body's guideline for correct placement.
a. Cut the un-notched end of the tube to the correct dimension taking into account the notch that
needs to be added to the end of the tube (typically 5/8" extra).
b. Trial fit the cross-brace and tack in place if the fit is correct. Make sure that the tube is level.
17. The Main hoop diagonal supports are installed next. These tubes span from the intersection of
the main hoop and main hoop cross-brace to a set of 6 X 6 plates, the top of a sub-frame
connector or rear frame rail, near the front ladder bar or 4-link brackets. These supports will
improve chassis reaction time and make the car less flexible.
a. Determine the location of the 6 x 6 plates. Form the plates to fit the location on the floor and
tack weld to floor.
b. Next determine angle and position of the tube. Make a template of the notch required on the
ends of the tube using a piece of paper wrapped around the end of the tube. Slide the paper
up into the location for the notch and mark the contours on the paper. Trim the paper as if it
were the piece of tube being notched. Refine the cut in the paper until your have a perfect fit.
c. Transfer this shape to the end of the main hoop supports.
d. Trial fit tube to the car. Tack weld in place. Finish weld both Support tubes and 6 X 6 Floor
18. The last part of the roll bar to be installed is the door bars (see illustration).
Note: Follow your sanctioning body’s rules for placement of these bars. Most rules state
that this bar must pass by the driver at a point between the driver’s shoulder and elbow.
Note: To properly locate the door bar the driver must be seated in the car.
19. Locate the position of the door bar on the rocker sill. Form and install a 6"x6" plate for each side.
a. The front of the door bar is to be located in the center of the floor plate. Trim the front of the
door bar so that it fits flush to the floor plate..
b. Notch the back of the door bar to fit against the main hoop at your desired point.
At the same time ensure sufficient clearance so the door bar does not contact the door panel.
Note: Make sure fuel lines are removed and or isolated and protected from heat.
c. When you are satisfied with the fit, tack weld the bar to the floor plate. Remove the door bar
and the floor plate and finish weld door bar to plate.
d. Tack Door Bar Floor Plates in car.
20. Begin finish welding by placing additional tack welds opposite existing tack welds. You will need
between two and three tacks around each tube to prevent the cage from drawing.
Secondary tacks should also be placed in areas that will be difficult to reach during finish welding.
Other areas for secondary tack welds will include tubes that don't fit tightly or are in areas where
the tubes form a deep angle.
21. Finish weld the entire roll bar in the same order you installed each component part.
Work on the center section first, then move on to the rear and then the front sections, using the
same side to side, top to bottom welding method.
If any porosity is encountered during welding, grind it out and re-weld. Check each union to be
sure that they are welded 100%. If you are unable to completely weld around a tube union, a
gusset must be used. With the welding completed, the roll bar can be degreased, sanded and
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