PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model Hand-made Almost R ead y to F Read eady Fll y R/C Model Aircraft ASSEMBL Y MANU AL ASSEMBLY MANUAL MS:12 Specifications Wingspan---------------------------------------60.63in, 1540mm. Wing area--------------------------------610 sq.in, 37.04sq.dm. Fuselage length--------------------------------43.7in, 1110mm. Approximate flying weight---------5.5-5.95lbs, 2500-2700g. Recommended engine size---------.40-.58 cu.in. 2-stroke. ----------------------------------------------.50-.72 cu.in. 4-stroke. Recommended R/C-----------------------4 channel minimum. Flying skill level-------------------------Intermediate/advanced. Additional items required. Engine. 4 Channel or greater Radio Control system. Glues. Tools. Starting Equipment. Kit features. • • • • Ready-made—minimal assembly & finishing required. Factory-installed pushrods. Comprehensive hardware pack including wheels, tank, undercarriage & spinner. Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual. Made in Vietnam. INTRODUCTION. Thank you for choosing the PC-9 ARTF by SEAGULL MODELS. The PC-9 was designed with the intermediate/advanced sport flyer in mind. It is a low-wing scale aeroplane which is easy to fly and quick to assemble. The airframe is conventionally built using balsa, plywood and veneer to make it stronger than the average ARTF , yet the design allows the aeroplane to be kept light. You will find that most of the work has been done for you already. The pushrods are pre-made to the correct lengths, the motor mount has been fitted and the hinges are pre-installed and pinned for security. Flying the PC-9 is simply a joy. This instruction manual is designed to help you build a great flying aeroplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before starting assembly of your PC-9 . Use the parts listing below to identify all parts. WARNING. Please be aware that this aeroplane is not a toy and if assembled or used incorrectly it is capable of causing injury to people or property. WHEN YOU FLY THIS AEROPLANE YOU ASSUME ALL RISK & RESPONSIBILITY. If you are inexperienced with basic R/C flight we strongly recommend you contact your R/C supplier and join your local R/C Model Flying Club. R/C Model Flying Clubs offer a variety of training procedures designed to help the new pilot on his way to successful R/C flight. They will also be able to advise on any insurance and safety regulations that may apply. ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED. * .40-.58 2-stroke engine. * .50-.72 4-stroke engine. * 4-channel radio with five servos. * Glow plug to suit engine. * Propeller to suit engine. * Protective foam rubber for radio system. * Silicone fuel line. * Stick-on weights for balance (If necessary). TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED. * Thick cyanoacrylate glue. * 30 minute epoxy. * 6 minute epoxy. * Hand or electric drill. * Assorted drill bits. * Modelling knife. * Straight edge ruler. * 2mm ball driver. * Phillips head screwdriver. * 220 grit sandpaper. * 90° square or builder’s triangle. * Wire cutters. * Masking tape & T-pins. * Thread-lock / Paper towels. PARTS LISTING. FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY * (1) Fuselage. * (1) Pre-installed throttle pushrod & tube. * (1) Pre-installed servo tray. WING ASSEMBLY * (1) Right wing half with preinstalled aileron. * (1) Left wing half with pre-installed aileron. * (1) Aluminium wing dihedral brace. TAIL SECTION ASSEMBLY * (1) Vertical stabilizer with preinstalled rudder. * (1) Horizontal stabilizer with preinstalled elevator halves. www.seagullmodels.com NOTE: To avoid scratching your new aeroplane we suggest that you cover your workbench with an old towel. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags. Please trial fit all parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper assembly as the PC-9 is made from natural materials and minor adjustments may have to be made. The paint and plastic parts used in this kit are fuel proof. However, they are not tolerant of many harsh chemicals including the following: paint thinner, cyano-acrylate glue accelerator, cyanoacrylate glue de-bonder and acetone. Do not let these chemicals come in contact with the colours on the covering and the plastic parts. HINGING THE AILERONS. Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators, and rudder, are prehinged with hinges installed, but the hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative that you properly adhere the hinges in place per the steps that follow using a high-quality thin C/A glue. 1) Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing panels. Note the position of the hinges. 2) Remove each hinge from the wing panel and aileron and place a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the aileron until the T-pin is snug against the aileron. This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the aileron is mounted to the wing panel. T-pin. Hinge. 3) Slide the aileron on the wing panel until there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel and aileron. Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron against the wing panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the wing panel and aileron. T-pin. 4)Deflect the aileron and completely saturate each hinge with thin C/A glue. The ailerons front surface should lightly contact the wing during this procedure. Ideally, when the 3 PC-9 Instruction Manual. hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the aileron to the wing panel hinge line. Note: The hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the C/A to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the wing panel and aileron. Note: Work the aileron up and down several times to “work in” the hinges and check for proper movement. HINGING THE ELEVATOR. Glue the elevator hinges in place using the same tectniques used to hinge the ailerons. Apply epoxy glue. C/A glue. 5) Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin C/A glue to each hinge, making sure that the C/A penetrates into both the aileron and wing panel. Metal wire. C/A glue. 6) Using C/A remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove any excess C/A glue that may have accumulated on the wing or in the aileron hinge area. 7) Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely hinging the aileron in place. C/A glue. 8) After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp the wing panel and aileron to make sure the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully applying medium pressure, trying to separate the aileron from the wing panel. Use caution not to crush the wing structure. 4 www.seagullmodels.com HINGING THE RUDDER. Glue the elevator hinges in place using the same tectniques used to hinge the ailerons. Epoxy. WING ASSEMBLY. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. There should not be any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper tower to clean up any excess epoxy. We highly recommend using 30 minute epoxy as it is stronger and provides more working time, allowing the builder to properly align the parts. Using fast cure epoxy when joining the wing halves could result in the glue drying before the wing halves are aligned properly which may result in failure of the wing centre section during flight. 1) Locate the wing dihedral brace. Using a ruler, locate its centre and draw a vertical line. Apply masking tape at the wing join to hold the wing halves together securely. Centre line. 2) Test fit the dihedral brace into each wing half. The brace should slide in easily up to the centreline that you drew. Dihedral brace. Masking tape. 4) Peel off the backing from the self adhesive covering strip. Apply the strip to the centre section of the wing starting from the bottom trailing edge. Wrap the strip all the way around the wing until it meets the trailing edge again. Trim off any excess strip. 3) Remove the brace when satisfied with its fit in each wing half. Coat dihedral brace with 30 minute epoxy. Next, pour some epoxy into the dihedral box in one wing panel. 5 PC-9 Instruction Manual. Thread. Remove covering. Small weight. Glue attached. INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS. Thread. Small weight. 3) Attach servo lead to the aileron servo. Attach the string to the servo lead and carefully thread it though the wing. Once you have thread the lead throught the wing, remove the string so it can use for the other servo lead. Servo. 1) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the aileron servo. Test fit the servo into the aileron servo mount. Because the size of servos differ, you may need to adjust the size of the precut opening in the mount. The notch in the sides of the mount allow the servo lead to pass through. Secure the servos with the screws provided from your radio system. 2) Using a small weight (Weighted fuel pick-up works well) and thread, feed the string through the wing as indicated. Thread. Small weight. 6 Thread. www.seagullmodels.com AILERON LINKAGE. 1) Using a ruler & pen to draw a straight line as below picture. Thread. 4) Tape the servo lead to the wing to prevent it from falling back into the wing. Pen. Plastic tape. Straight line. 5) Reinstall the servo into the servo mount and secure the servo inplace using the wood screws provided with you radio system. 2) Locate the two nylon control horns, two nylon control horn backplates and four machine screws. 3) Position the aileron horn on the bottom side of aileron. The clevis attachment holes should be positioned over the hinge line. 2mm X 20mm. Repeat the procedure for the other wing half. Control Horn. Mounting Screws. Mounting Plate. 7 PC-9 Instruction Manual. 4) Using a 1mm drill bit and the control horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the aileron halves. 8) Make a 90-degree bend at the mark and cut off the excess wire leaving 10mm past the bend. 5) Mount the control horns by inserting the screws through the control horn bases and aileron halves, then into the mounting backplates. Do not overtighten the screws or the backplates may crush the wood. 9) Connect the linkage as shown and secure the control wire with a wire keeper. 6) Thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto each aileron control rod. Thread the horns on until they are flush with the ends of the control rods. 7) With the aileron servo centered and the aileron even with the trailing edge of the wing attach the clevis to the control horn. Mark the control wire where it crosses the servo arm hole. Repeat the procedure for the other aileron servo. INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES. 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two main gear mounting slots located in the bottom of the wing. Remove covering. Pen. Cut. 8 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear wire into the predrilled hole in one mounting slot. www.seagullmodels.com 3) The landing gear wire is held in place using two nylon landing gear straps and four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. The straps should be located equal distance from the inside and outside ends of the wire. 4) Using the two landing gear straps as a guide, mark the locations of the four 3mm x 12mm mounting screws onto the wing surface. 8) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel onto each axle and push them up against the wheel collars. Slide the remaining wheel collars with 3mm x 6mm set screws onto the axles. Push them up against the wheels and tighten the set screws. The wheels should spin free and not bind in any way. If they do bind, loosen the set screws in the outer wheel collars and move the collars out a small amount. Retighten the set screws. NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION. 5) Remove the two straps and the gear wire. Drill four 3/32” pilot holes into the wing for the wood screws. Be careful do not to drill through the top of the wing! Installing steering arm as below. 6) Reinstall the gear wire and install the straps using the four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Tighten the screws completely to secure the gear wire in place. 7) Slide one wheel collar with 3mm x 6mm set screw onto each axle. Push the wheel collars on as far as they will go and tighten the set screws. Be careful not to overtighten the set screws. Overtightening may cause the threads to strip. Steering arm. Adjust the nose gear steering arm until the arm is parallel with the fire wall. 9 PC-9 Instruction Manual. FUEL TANK. Install the pushrod wire as shown. INSTALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBLY. Adjustable Connector. 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the rear portion of one of the two nylon tubes leaving 1/2” protruding from the rear of the stopper. This will be the fuel pick up tube. 2) Using a modeling knife, cut one length of silicon fuel line (not included) to 2-1/4” long. Connect one end of the line to the weighted fuel pickup and the other end to the nylon pickup tube. 3) Carefully bend the second nylon tube up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL. Slide one 60mm diameter wheel collar onto the axle and tighten. Slide the nose wheel on and push it up against the wheel collar. Slide the remaining wheel collar on and push it up against the wheel and tighten the set screw. The wheels should spin free and not bind in any way. 10 www.seagullmodels.com 4) Carefully heat the vent tube using a heat gun or lighter to permanently set the angle of the tube. Vent tube. INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK. Pushrod wire. Fuel Pickup Tube. Fuel Fill Tube. When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top surface of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank. 5) Test fit the stopper assembly into the tank. It may be necessary to remove some of the flashing around the tank opening using a modeling knife. If flashing is present, make sure none falls into the tank. Using a modeling knife, cut one length of fuel line 20” long. Connect one line to the vent tube and one line to the fuel pick up tube on the stopper. See picture bellow. Plastic tape. 6) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pickup should rest about 3/8” away from the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. The top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank. 7) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split. ll. Pu Blow through the tubes to make sure the lines have not become kinked during installation. 11 PC-9 Instruction Manual. Fuel tank. Vent tube. Fuel fill tube. Fuel pickup tube. 5) Attach the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire to the throttle arm on the carburetor. You will need to remove the throttle arm from the carburetor to be able to attach the Z-bend. When complete, reattach the throttle arm to the carburetor. MOUNTING THE ENGINE. 1) Trial fit your engine on the motor mount. The engine should be positioned so there is ample clearance in the cowling for spinner backplate mounted to the prop drive shaft. Pushrod wire. 2) Marking 4 points on the plastic motor mount. 3) Screw 4 pilot holes with 2.5 mm diameter 4) Secure your engine on the motor mount by mounting with 4 machine screws. 2.5mm. 3mm X 25mm. 12 11cm. www.seagullmodels.com 4) Remove the cowl. Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the holes in only the four cowl blocks. COWLING. 5) Using a 1/8” drill bit. Enlarging the holes through the cowl will prevent the fiberglass from splitting when the mounting screws are installed. 6) Slide the cowl back over the engine and secure it in place using four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. See picture below. 1) Slide the fiberglass cowl over the engine and line up the back edge of the cowl with the marks you made on the fuselage Because of the diameter of the cowl, it may be necessary to use a needle valve extension for the high speed needle valve. Make this out of sufficient length 1.5mm wire and install it into the end of the needle valve. Secure the wire in place by tightening the set screw in the side of the needle valve. Trim and cut. 7) Install the muffler and muffler extension onto the engine and make the cutout in the cowl for muffler clearance. Connect the fuel and pressure lines to the carburetor, muffler and fuel filler valve. Trim and cut. 2) While keeping the back edge of the cowl flush with the marks, align the front of the cowl with the crankshaft of the engine. The front of the cowl should be positioned so the crankshaft is in the middle of the cowl opening. Hold the cowl firmly in place using pieces of masking tape. 3) While holding the cowl firmly in position, drill four 1/16” pilot holes through both the cowl and through the mounting blocks. 13 PC-9 Instruction Manual. INSTALLING THE SWITCH. INSTALLING THE SPINNER. Install the spinner backplate, propeller and spinner cone. The spinner cone is held in place using two 3mm x 12mm wood screws. The propeller should not touch any part of the spinner cone. If it does, use a sharp modeling knife and carefully trim away the spinner cone where the propeller comes in contact with it. 1) Install the switch into the precut hole in the servo tray, in the fuselage, from the bottom. Use the two screws provided with the switch to secure it in place. Drill two 3/32” holes through the tray for the screws to pass through. 2) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a hole through the side of the fuselage, opposite the muffler, even with the switch. 3) Make a push-pull lever out of scrap wire. Attach the wire to the switch lever and route the wire out the side of the fuselage, through the hole you drilled. Some switches come with a hole drilled through the switch tab for this very purpose. If your switch does not, remove the switch and drill a 3/32” hole through the middle of the switch tab. 14 www.seagullmodels.com INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS. 3) Slide the stabilizer into place in the precut slot in the rear of the fuselage. The stabilizer should be pushed firmly against the front of the slot. 4) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pins or masking tape, but do not glue at this time. 1) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the elevator, rudder and throttle servos. Test fit the servos into the preinstalled servo tray. Because the size of servos differ, you may need to adjust the size of the precut openings in the tray. MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER. 1) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides and top and bottom of the stabilizer. Secure the servos with the screws provided from your radio system. 2) Position the servos into the servo tray with the output shafts orientated as shown below. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the tray for each of the mounting screws. Pen. Switch. Rudder. 2) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a modeling knife. Elevator. Throttle. Remove covering. ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER. 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend this mark down the back of the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Draw center line. 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from over the vertical stabilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage. When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it. 3) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering that overlaps the stabilizer mounting platform sides in the fuselage. Remove the covering from both the top and the bottom of the platform sides. 4) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mounting area and to the stabilizer mounting platform sides 15 PC-9 in the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. 5) After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape or T-pins used to hold the stabilizer in place. Carefully inspect the glue joints. Use more epoxy to fill in any gaps that may exist that were not filled previously and clean up the excess using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. VERTICAL STABILIZER INSTALLATION. Instruction Manual. 2) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the top of the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer should be flush with the rear edge of the fuselage and the lower rudder hinge should engage the precut hinge slot in the lower fuselage. The bottom edge of the stabilizer should also be firmly pushed against the top of the horizontal stabilizer. 3) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage. Pen. 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the precut hinge slot cut into the lower rear portion of the fuselage. This slot accepts the lower rudder hinge. Hinge slot. 16 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modelling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer and the bottom and top edges of the filler block. Leave the covering in place on the sides of the filler block. When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it. www.seagullmodels.com 2) Position the two elevator horns on the bottom side of each elevator. The clevis attach- ment holes should be positioned over the hinge line. 2mm X 20mm. Remove covering. 5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. Horizontal Stabilizer. 90º Control Horn. Vertical Stabilizer. Mounting Screws. 6) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Flash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom and. top edges of the filler block and to the lower hinge also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding Mounting Plate. 3) Using a 5/64" drill bit and the control horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the elevator halves. 4) Mount the control horns by inserting the screws through the control horn bases and eleva- tor halves, then into the mounting backplates. Do not overtighten the screws or the backplates may crush the wood. 5) Position the rudder control horn on the left side of the airplane. 6) Install the rudder control horn using the same method as with the elevator control horns. Left side. CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION. 1) Locate the two nylon control horns, two nylon control horn backplates and four 2 x 20mm machine screws. 17 PC-9 Instruction Manual. ELEVATOR-RUDDER PUSHROD INSTALLATION. Cut. Rubber Band. Antenna. Modified Servo Arm. Battery. Clevis. Control horn. Tie wrap. Elevator pushrod. Rudder pushrod. Receiver. ATTACHMENT WING - FUSELAGE. See picture below: Rudder. Switch. Throttle. Elevator. INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTERY. 1) Plug the five servo leads and the switch lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch also. 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in the protective foam rubber to protect them from vibration 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through the side of the fuselage, near the receiver, for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band and a modified servo arm. See picture as below. 18 BALANCING. 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The center of gravity is located 8-9.5cm back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides. Balance the PC-9 upside down with the fuel tank empty. 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Using a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the top side of the wing 8cm back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides. 3) Turn the airplane upside down. Place your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane. www.seagullmodels.com 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery and receiver forward orif this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers. CONTROL THROWS. 1) We highly recommend setting up the PC-9 using the control throws listed below. We have listed control throws for both initial test flying/sport flying and aerobatic flying. 2) Turn on the radio system, and with the trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises or adjustable servo connectors. The servo arms should be centered also. 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The control throws should be measured at the widest point of each surface! INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING Ailerons: Elevator: Rudder: 3/16” up 5/16” up 3/4” right 3/16” down 5/16” down 3/4” left PREFLIGHT CHECK. 1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying. 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the PC-9 to ensure that everything is tight and well bonded. 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty. 4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind in any way. 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights. 6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings. 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage. 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vibration which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure. We wish you many safe and enjoyable flights with your PC-9. AEROBATIC FLYING Ailerons: Elevator: Rudder: 3/8” up 5/8” up 1-1/4” right 3/8” down 5/8” down 1-1/4” left Do not use the aerobatic settings for initial test flying or sport flying. 4) By moving the position of the adjustable control horn out from the control surface, you will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface. Moving the adjustable control horn toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw. 19 PC-9 20 Instruction Manual. The pictures and parts shown above should be changed without notice.