100 Threadless
1 1/8" Star Nut (.ASN8)
Preload Assembly
Top Cap (.HD01107-01K)
Cane Creek Cycling Components warrants
its bicycle products for a period of 2
years from the original date of purchase.
Any product that is found to be defective
in materials or workmanship will be
repaired or replaced at the discretion of
Cane Creek. This warranty applies to the
original owner only. This warranty does
not cover damage or failure resulting
from misuse, abuse, alteration, neglect,
wear and tear, crash or impact, lack of
maintenance or other conditions judged
by Cane Creek to be abnormal, excessive,
or improper. It is mandatory that a Return
Authorization Number (RA#) be obtained
by calling Cane Creek before any product
is returned. Additionally, a dated Proof of
Purchase must accompany the product
when returned.
M6 x 30 Preload Bolt (.AAB)
(fork crown OD
- 0.05
30.015 +0.060)
12.50 MIN
Part #
Hub Top Cap, black
100 Interlok Top Spacer - 2.5mm
100 Interlok Spacer - 5mm
100 Interlok Spacer - 10mm
100 Top Cover
110 Clip-In Compression Ring
110 Compression Ring Seal
Black Oxide Split-Lip Bearing
100 Top Cup
100 Bottom Cup
110 Crown Race
12.50 MIN
1 1/8” Traditional
Head Tube Specifications
100 Headset Instructions
Frame and Fork Preparation:
Use head tube reaming and facing tools
to prepare the top and bottom of the frame’s head
tube. (Be sure to use the correct reamer diameter
corresponding to the headset being installed.)
Use a crown race cutting tool to turn and
face the crown race seat of the fork, again being
sure to use the correct diameter tool.
Steerer Tube Length
For the safe and proper installation of a
threadless headset system it is imperative that
the top of the fork’s steerer tube end 3mm below
the top face of the stem when fully assembled. In
order to achieve this it is usually necessary to cut
the steerer tube. To ensure the correct steerer
tube length:
1.Fully assemble the fork and headset as shown
in the figure on page one.
2.Install the number of spacers you desire on top
of the top cover.
3.Install your stem without tightening the clamp
4.Manually compress the fork/head-tube/stem
assembly to remove as much play as possible.
Tighten one of the stem’s clamp bolts to hold the
assembly in place.
5.Make a mark on the steerer tube at the top of
the stem, you will make your cut 3mm below
this mark. Disassemble headset assembly and
using an appropriate guide cut the steerer tube
3mm below the mark you made earlier.
6.If the steerer must be cut without assembly the
following formula may be used to calculate the
steerer tube length:
Installing the Bearing Cups:
Press the upper and lower bearing cups
into the head tube using a good quality headset
press. It is often easier and more precise to press
in one cup at a time.
The 100 headset is equipped with drop-in
bearings for easy replacement and tolerance to
frame/fork misalignment. When pressing the cups
into the frame the bearings should be removed.
Cup installation is best done using Cane Creek
headset installation tools to press directly on the
bearing seats. These tools are designed to ensure
the safe installation of all Cane Creek Headsets
and are available through your local Cane Creek
Star Nut Installation:
Using an appropriate star nut setting tool,
press the star nut, convex side first, into the steerer
tube so that it rests 15mm inside the tube.
Note: Under no circumstances should
a star nut be used on a fork with a carbon fiber
steerer tube. On these forks the manufacturer’s
recommended preload device should be utilized.
Installing the Crown Race:
Press the fork crown race onto the fork
with an appropriate crown race installation tool until
the bottom of the race is flush with the fork crown.
This should be a press fit.
1.If the headset will not tighten properly check to
be sure your steerer tube sits 3mm below the
top of the stem or any spacers above the stem.
2.If the headset binds when tight be sure that the
preload bolt is not too tight. If binding occurs
while the headset is still loose check the gap
between the top cover and upper bearing cup.
If there is interference you can insert spacer
shims between the compression ring and the
top cover to increase this clearance. A lack of
clearance here is likely due to a steerer tube
that is less than 28.45mm in diameter.
3.After an initial break-in period you may need to
repeat this process.
Helpful hints on the Clip-In Compression Ring:
ST Length = Lower Stack Height + Head Tube
Length + Upper Stack Height + Height of
Spacers + Stem Clamp Height - 3mm
Cutting Steerer Tube:
Cut the steerer tube using a good quality
hacksaw and an appropriate guide. To ensure
a clean cut always use a sharp, fine toothed
hacksaw blade, and in the case of carbon fiber
steerers, an abrasive blade is preferable. Be sure
to file and de-burr the freshly cut edge before
Pre-loading the Headset Assembly:
With the headset fully assembled and with
the stem bolts loose, tighten the headset preload
bolt just until slight resistance is felt. Carefully
continue tightening until all play is taken out of
the headset assembly, this should require very
little force. Align the stem with the front wheel
and tighten the stem clamp bolts. Check for play
by firmly holding the front brake and rocking the
bike backwards and forwards. With the headset
properly adjusted there should be no play in the
assembly and the fork should rotate easily without
The spacer shim or
shims (if needed) go
between the top
bearing cover and the
compression ring. The
110 is designed to
allow the compression
ring to clip-in with both
shims installed.
Reinstall compression ring by simply
snapping it into the top bearing cover.
Fig.1 - Use one hand to push one side of
split in compression ring towards center.
Cane Creek Cycling Components • 355 Cane Creek Road • Fletcher, NC 28732
ph: 828.684.3551 • fax: 828.684.1057 • web: www.canecreek.com • e-mail: [email protected]
Compression Ring Seal Installation
1) Ensure seal is oriented properly (see above)
2) Apply light pressure until seal snaps into groove
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