Hunter 356 ISLAND ESCAPE, Honda 2.3-HP 4-stroke, Yanmar 27 HP Diesel, Furuno, Raymarine C90 Owner's Notes
Below you will find brief information for Sailboat 356 ISLAND ESCAPE, Inverter, Microwave, Outboard Motor Honda 2.3-HP 4-stroke, Refrigerator, Engine Yanmar 27 HP Diesel, Autopilot, Chart Plotter Furuno, Chart Plotter Raymarine C90, Depth Sounder, Knot Meter, VHF Radio, Wind Indicator. This document contains information about using and maintaining the sailboat. It includes safety features, operating instructions, and tips for anchoring, navigation and engine maintenance. The document is organized into sections for each item, providing detailed information to help you have a smooth and enjoyable experience.
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Hunter 356 “ISLAND ESCAPE” Owner's Notes Welcome Aboard from Giles and Shannon Little! We would like to welcome you and your family and friends to share our Hunter 356 sailboat on the waters of the US Pacific Northwest! We have done everything we can to make this boat beautiful, comfortable, and easy to sail. We hope you have a wonderful time. Please treat her like she is your own boat. Please take a few minutes and scan these notes which are intended to help you deal with some of the equipment and sailing gear on board. That way, you can easily answer a few of those “How do I operate the ----“questions, and help us keep “ISLAND ESCAPE” in great shape for all to enjoy. Many of the questions previous guests have had would have been answered by checking these notes, making their experience an even better one. ISLAND ESCAPE is a smoke free boat. We respectfully ask that you do not smoke inside or on the boat. Please only light up when ashore! We thank you for your consideration. The following pages document some of the essential characteristics of the boat. Familiarity with this information will make your sailing experience aboard significantly easier and more enjoyable! Please let us know how we can clarify or add to these “Owner’s Notes” to improve the information. Please feel free to write in the margins or at the end of the notes so that we can change it. If you add your name and address I will send you a $10 starbucks card as a small thank you! We will also consider all suggestions included with your post-charter report to the San Juan Sailing staff, including needed maintenance and repairs as safety and fun are our priorities! Bon voyage. Giles and Shannon Little, Owners Revised/Updated Oct 2014 Table of contents Subject Page Safety Aboard Favorite things about Island Escape Quirks in Operating Island Escape Anchors and Anchoring Anchor Windlass Barbecue Battery System/Charging Berths Bilge Pumps Boarding Ladder Boat Specifications CS player/stereo Dinghy Dodger/Bimini Electrical Power -Electrical Panel -Circuit Breakers/switches -Emergency Starting -AC Shore Power -AC temporary power -DC battery power -anchor windlass -Chargers and cellular phones -House lights Electronics -Autopilot -Furuno Chart plotter and radar -Raymarine color Chart plotter -Depth Sounder -Knot Meter -VHF radio -Wind Indicator Emergency/Safety Engine -starting -shifting gears -engine operation -engine overheat -engine shutdown Fuel Tank Hatch Board Storage Head and Holding Tank -flushing -Emptying holding tank Heater/Diesel 3 3 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 7 7 7 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 12 12 13 13 13 14 14 14 15 15 15 16 16 16 16 16 17 18 2 Inverter Microwave Outboard Motor Refrigerator/Freezer Sails and Rigging Shower Spare Parts and Tools Stove/Propane Appliances Trash/Dustpan/Handbroom/Vacuum TV/DVD player Water – Hot and Cold pressure system Fresh Water Tankage -fresh water tank -holding tank 18 18 18 18 19 22 22 23 23 23 24 24 24 24 SAFETY ABOARD Safety is the primary concern of all, Captain and Crew alike. PLEASE take time to review all safety features of “ISLAND ESCAPE” before you set off on your cruise. This includes location of the Life Sling and related equipment, use of the GPS to set a “Man Overboard” waypoint, location of fire extinguishers, safety harness, etc. The Captain /Skipper is responsible for his/her crew knowing the safety features and following instructions in an emergency. LIFE JACKETS are stored in the Wet Locker located in the Shower/Head compartment. All crew should try on and properly fit a jacket prior to departing from any anchorage or dock and should know at all times where “their” jacket is located. Use of the radar/chart plotter (GPS), VHF radio, depth sounder, and other instrumentation as well as official government charts should be considered as assists to promote safety and safe navigation BUT not as a substitute for continuous alertness and caution. FIVE FAVORITE THINGS ABOUT “ISLAND ESCAPE” 1. In Mast Mainsail. Breezes come and go. Reducing sails or furling at the end of a long tack back to the docks can be handled from the cockpit and that’s it! You can sail with as much sail as needed, and still maintain great sail shape. No sail ties, no folding, just getting on with the fun. Remember though, that it is the outhaul and not the halyard that you need to release when furling! (speaking from experience). You never need to touch the halyard unless the sail is bunching at the bottom and you want to raise it slightly. 2. Power Windlass. Pulling chain and anchors is NO FUN. Stow the chain and lash the anchor in the bow bracket and then relax. It’s done! Launching the anchor is also a snap – Just count the markings and set the anchor at the proper depth. 3. Storage. There are lots of storage areas inside and out. There are storage areas under almost every cushion and mattress in the boat! 3 4. Dual instruments. New C90 map plotter in 2013 – easy to operate and with an easy to see screen. The furuno map plotter/radar was left in place, so one screen can be zoomed in, and the other zoomed out, or you can have one radar and one map plotter without having to split the screen! 5. Extended Battery Capacity and Combiner/Start-Battery Isolator. The house battery bank was doubled in 2013 to extend the battery life while away from shore power. The Start Battery is isolated and kept at full charge. The four deep cycle battery house system provides an ample service at 400 amp hours. Battery charging is automatic, and no battery switching is required. TOP THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ON “ISLAND ESCAPE” 1. In-Mast Mainsail Furling line. The black control line for the in-mast mainsail furling has a thickening at the splice causing it to sometimes ‘jam’ at the cleat on the cabin-top. It often takes an small extra tug to pull the splice through the cleat. 2. The main is new April 2015! Makes sailing easier, but furling slightly harder. You may need to use the endless loop AS WELL as the outhaul to deploy the main. You will need to use the outhaul tension to get a tight wrap to replace the main in the mast. If it is not furling evenly (white left out at top) then you will need to raise the boom. 3. Power Windlass: Use of the power windlass is great – but jamming the anchor chain is a royal pain and can be a hazard under stress or in an emergency. The chain MUST be kept clear of the forward edge of the windlass and not allowed to pile up and block the anchor feed or kink as the chain peels off the gypsy cogs. Use the handle of the mop on deck to push down the chain as you raise the anchor. If releasing the clutch (port side of windlass) does not solve a jam, it may be necessary to unbolt the top cover to clear the gears and release the jam. By then, the circuit breaker will have blown, and will need to cool and be reset. Observing caution is the best bet! 3. Checking the Oil. Not convenient! It is located almost at the floorboard level on the starboard side below a bunch of hoses. A black mark has been drawn on the fiberglass outside the engine cover to indicate where (fore & aft) the elusive dip-stick is located. A small flag should be attached to the dipstick to make it easier to find. If the flagging should be missing, please add something clever or bright-colored to help the next sailor. A small mirror has been placed there to assist, and as a last resort the step cover can be removed to give you the needed room to get it in place. 4. Lighting the Stove. While the stove should light automatically - once the tank is opened, the Solenoid is opened and the breaker is opened - it often doesn’t respond. Just think Propane BBQ Starter, open the appropriate burner valve on the stove, and forget about ‘automatic’. Use the provided lighter to light it. In order for it to stay lit, you must hold the knob in until it has heated. 5. The cabin hatches have 2 settings, vent and closed. If you latch it in the middle setting they will leak if raining. You need to have the lever BELOW both black pieces to be water tight. Please remember where you read this if you see a leak! 6. When anchoring, remember, red at 50 feet, red/yellow at 100 feet, red/yellow/red at 150 feet. When you reach the end of the chain you are at 200. 4 ABOUT ‘ISLAND ESCAPE’ ANCHORS AND ANCHORING ISLAND ESCAPE is equipped with two anchors, one forward in the anchor locker and one in the port swim locker. The primary bow anchor is a plow-type with 200 feet of chain and 220 feet of rope. The line is marked in 50-foot intervals, red at 50, red/yellow at 100, and red/yellow/red at 150 feet. The secondary/stern anchor is a Danforth with 60 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon line. Island Escape draws 6”5” therefore it is advisable to allow a minimum of 10’ clearance. The stern tie line is a coil of 200 feet of yellow line in the cockpit port locker for stern tying in case of close anchoring. The scope to use in the islands is 2-4-to-1 for the highest water depth you’ll encounter in the spot where you choose to drop anchor. Check your tide data...to know how much water you may lose and how much water you will gain as the tide floods in and ebbs out during your stay. Since most coves are 15’-30’ deep, expect to pay out about 60’-120’ of rode. After you have paid out the suitable amount of rode, 2 minutes of reverse (in idle speed reverse) sets the anchor and tests its holding power. (Note other boats and points of reference on land. Are you moving? If not after 2 minutes, you’ve set you anchor successfully.) If you wish to sleep even better, throttle up to about 1500 RPMs in reverse for another 30 seconds to prove to yourself that the anchor is set well! For storm conditions (sustained winds of 25+ knots), extend your scope to 7 or 10-to-1, provided you have room to leeward. Otherwise, set two bow anchors (using the secondary anchor chain and rode) in a v-type pattern for extra holding power Anchor Windlass The electric anchor windlass first REQUIRES power from a switch on the navigation station D.C. panel. An additional hinge-type circuit breaker for the windlass circuit is located under the chart table. Always operate the windlass while the engine is running. Last, the up-down foot controllers for the windlass are on the forward starboard deck just aft of the anchor locker. If the anchor chain jams and/or the windless is used to pull the boat up to the anchor (instead of using the engine in low-forward gear) it is likely that the Circuit Breaker will open and power to the deck switches will be lost. Start the engine prior to operating the Windlass to avoid tripping the breaker and potentially drawing down the starting battery. Release the anchor by untying the small line retaining the chain, and pushing down with your foot the switch with the arrow pointing forward. Watch the chain and anchor line markers to determine the amount of scope released. Release the anchor sufficiently upwind so that the actual position of the boat (and swing circle) is clear of other anchored boats, rocks, or other obstructions. Check the low tide depth anticipated during your time at anchor and assure sufficient depth is available over the duration. CHECK 5 the tide tables and correction for the locale from the sources stowed in the book rack behind the chart table. Remember, the depth sounder is set at the water-line, and the boat draws 6.5 feet. Retrieving the anchor requires good planning and crew coordination. When retrieving the anchor, never use the windlass to pull the boat up to where the anchor is set. Instead, head the boat under power toward the anchor while using the windlass to take up the stack chain. Using the “up” button with the arrow pointing back, retrieve the chain and anchor line slowly, and finally secure the anchor. Once the anchor is out of the water, retrieve it by hand, placing the anchor’s shaft on the rollers, and then lifting it into place. Stow the remaining chain with slow, short activation of the windlass, leaving a small amount of slack in the chain. Throughout the retrieval process, KEEP THE CHAIN CLEAR OF THE FORWARD SIDE OF THE WINDLASS TO AVOID JAMMING the gypsy and potentially throwing the circuit breaker. IF power is lost, clear the chain (using the clutch on the right side of the gypsy, or if that fails to release the jam, carefully remove the cover plate by removing the two screws) and check the circuit breaker and reset as necessary by closing the small black lever on the breaker by raising it to a horizontal position. Have the helmsman maintain position over the anchor set position by using idle-neutral with head to wind. KEEP the engine running throughout the retrieval process in order to avoid accidental tripping of the circuit breaker as the windlass requires significant power. Engine power will also be needed to maintain position and reduce strain on the windlass motor and gearing. Secure the anchor with the tie thru the anchor chain and close the foot switches. Turn off the breaker switch on the main electrical panel. Revised/Updated 04/2015 BARBECUE The stainless steel propane BBQ is mounted on the starboard side on the stern rail. It operates on propane by use of the ‘pigtail’ hose connected to a separate tank in the propane locker. The tank valve must first be opened... Upon completion of use, the tank valve should be closed. When active use is finished, make sure the regulator knob is OFF. As a courtesy to the next guest, please use the wire brush attached by wire to the barbecue to clean the grill. Also, replace the cover to keep the BBQ out of the elements. Revised/Updated 10/2014 BATTERY SYSTEM/CHARGING ISLAND ESCAPE is equipped with a four deep cycle battery system. The master battery switch is located on the bulkhead beneath the chart table. You may simply leave the switch in the ON position The isolator assures all batteries are charged, while protecting the engine start battery from draw-down by house usage. The two battery banks are located in the cockpit locker compartment under protective covers. The 4 deep cycle batteries are connected in series to provide 400 ampere-hours for house 12 volt power requirements. The Isolator detects remaining charge and will automatically keep the start battery bank at full charge and reserved for engine starting. . In an emergency the battery switch can be set to “Combine” to temporarily boost starting power. Also See “Electrical Power/Panel” section of these notes. 6 BERTHS Island Escape is ideal for four adults. She can sleep seven . Two can sleep in the forward cabin with 6’ headroom and a birth 75” long, narrowing from 82” to 12” at the bow. The aft cabin has 6’4” headroom and a queen size inner-spring mattress sleeps two. The main salon table when made into a birth is 36” forward, 52” aft and 80” long. (This requires lowering the salon table and using the settee cushion insert and would not be comfortable for 2 adults.) The port settee measures 22” forward, 30” aft and 79” long. Lowering the Salon Table The salon table can be lowered to make into an additional bunk: Remove all the table seat cushions Pull the pins on both sides of the table mount Lower the table until it rests on the wooden supports Replace the seat cushions The filler cushion is stored in the forward V Berth when not in use. BILGE PUMPS. There are two bilge pumps. The electric bilge pump is controlled at the electrical panel. However, the pump also has an automatic float switch wired directly to the battery bank. When there is enough bilge water to “float” the switch, the pump engages even if it is turned off at the electrical panel. Turn on the sump pump manually when showering. The sump pump empties water from the shower and refrigerator without letting the water enter the bilge (the white box under the stairs is the sump pump and hoses). Beware: If you shower without the sump pump on, water will spill into the bilge and can lead to an unpleasant odor until the bilge is cleaned and pumped. An emergency portable bilge pump is located in the cockpit storage locker. There is also a manual bilge pump handle in this locker above the emergency tiller that can be connected to fitting in the cockpit on the port side next to the engine kill switch should you lose power and/or need to rapidly remove water from the boat. Hopefully you will never hear the shower sump pump start automatically. If you do, please investigate immediately and report it to San Juan Sailing either by phone or VHF (channel 80) if there is a significant problem, or upon your return if a minor problem. BOARDING LADDER A small white boarding step is provided at the San Juan Sailing dock for Island Escape. This step folds and may be taken aboard for use at other ports of call. BOAT SPECIFICATIONS All boat specifications such as LOA, LWL, draft, tank capacities, serial numbers, etc., can be found in the pages following the owner’s notes in the guest book. MP3 PLAYER/STEREO The Sony sound system operates like a car stereo Simply experiment with the regular buttons to gain familiarity. The stereo will beep three times when the unit is turned off on the main control panel. This is normal. 7 Use the “FADE” function to activate the speakers in the cockpit, to have both inside and outside speakers operating, or to return audio to the cabin only. This unit has a jack for aux. players such as ipod/mp3 players. DINGHY ISLAND ESCAPE has a hard bottom inflatable 10’2” Avon RIB dinghy. For tie-up after anchoring or for towing, you should tie on the starboard side to avoid the furnace outlet vent. Towing works best when the dinghy is brought close to the boat—about 4 or 5 feet off the stern. This lifts the bow, reduces drag, and lessens the chance of wrapping the painter around the propeller. Tie the painter off twice—once at a portside cleat then tie the bitter end to the stern rail. Keep track of the oars as well. The oars should be stored flat inside the dinghy when under tow. Island Escape has a Honda 2.3-HP 4-stroke outboard motor (New 2014). See the section in these notes for “Outboard Motor” for additional information and operating instructions. The outboard motor holds about 1/3rd gallon of regular gas (no oil mixing is needed!) Do not store spare gasoline on the boat except inside the outboard engine. An extra gas container is secured inside the dinghy. The inflating pump is stored in the small bow locker of the dinghy, together with a pump-out hose and limited repair kit. (See section “Outboard for motor operating instructions.) PLEASE check regularly that the dinghy drain plugs on the transom are SECURLY in place prior to towing or heading out to the crab-pot or for ice cream ashore! Please use special care when beaching the dinghy (refer to the dinghy beaching procedure in your charter guest book). Most of the beaches in the Islands are strewn with barnacle covered, bottom slicing rocks. When approaching the shore, weight the d--inghy aft by leaning or moving toward the back of the dinghy. Revised/Updated 11/2014 Then offload everyone over the bow. Lift the dinghy/outboard motor using the hand lines on either side above the barnacle “line”, and deposit the dinghy gently on the beach. Also remember to secure the painter under a rock or to a log - especially in the case of a rising tide. Carefully lift the dinghy off the beach and launch carefully beyond the shore rocks rather than dragging it when departing the beach. DODGER/BIMINI The dodger windows are plastic “glass” that is vulnerable to scratching from salt crystals, especially after sailing into a challenging breeze. The salt spray on the glass dries in the wind, leaving behind tiny salt deposits that obscure your vision. Please avoid directly touching the glass with a rag or sponge. It’s like rubbing the glass with sand paper! To clean, use generous amounts of fresh water from a hose, a pan from the galley, or a sopping wet sponge to “flood” the glass and dissolve the salt crystals away. (Better yet, wait until you’re at a dock where you can hose off the salt crystals. If the dodger glass is really clear, you can thank previous guests for their diligence. And we thank you too! Please do not toss items (winch handles, fenders, life jackets, etc) on top of the house and potentially hitting the dodger windows. Dodger Adjustment for Sun//Rain The Dodger consists of three separate sections. The center section may be either removed or installed in order to accommodate the wishes of the Captain and Crew relative to both sun and rain. To remove the canvas center section, first unzip the forward edge using the zipper pulls from each outboard edge. Once the zipper is open, the canvas is removed by slowly pulling the hard aft edge from the slot, pulling either to port or starboard. Carefully roll the unit taking care to NOT crease the Plexiglas window, and store the 8 unit securely below out of the way. This provides a nice selection of both sun and shade in the cockpit. To reinstall the center canvas for either full shade or protection from rain, slide the hard track aft edge into the slot on the Cockpit Bridge, then close the zipper from each side. Close the snaps and enjoy! A canvas companionway hatch cover is also provided to offer privacy and/or ventilation when the hatch boards are not in use. This is generally kept on the shelf in the port cockpit locker. ELECTRICAL POWER Electrical Panel The Electrical System is the “Brains” for meeting all the electrical power requirements for ISLAND ESCAPE. There are two electrical subsystems on board. The Battery System (12 V D.C. - see Battery/Charging) is 12 volts, and supports most lighting and instrumentation functions. In addition, an isolated battery is the electrical source for starting the diesel engine. The Shore Power System operates on 120 Volt AC Power, obtained by connecting the Shore Power cord to an appropriate 30 Amp shore connection, available at almost all Marinas. In addition to powering the Battery Charger, several components onboard require AC power. See sections following. Both power systems have circuit breakers/resets which need to be checked should either system fail to function. Revised/Updated 03/2013 The Battery (12 Volt) A reset for the 12 V DC panel is located on the bulkhead below the chart table. The Shore Power (AC breaker) is located on the aft bulkhead inside the port cockpit locker. Circuit Breakers/Switches Breaker switches for activating component sub-systems and equipment for the two ‘systems’ are arranged separately on the master electronics panel located in the salon above the chart table. The Battery functions are located on the left (DC), with the Shore Power functions on the right (AC). Each section has a master system switch located at the top of the respective section Most switches at the panel board are self explanatory, but some circuits are unique. Emergency Starting In emergency starting situations only, the battery switch may be set temporarily to “COMBINE” to boost available amperage. Should the ignition fail, there is a bypass starter button located under the companionway steps (behind/under the engine cover) near the engine hour meter. If you are having difficulty starting the engine, check that the kill pull in the cockpit has been pushed back in! AC (120Volt) Shore Power ISLAND ESCAPE is equipped with a 50’ orange shore power cord for this use. (Stored in the cockpit locker ) To connect the AC Shore Power, first make sure the AC Master Switch is turned off. Also assure the shore power source is also turned off. Connect the shore power cable to the three-pronged plug on the outside of the port stern rail. Then connect to the shore power source. Turn on the shore connection, then the AC Master switch on the Electrical Panel. Reverse this process when disconnecting the AC Shore Power. Activate the A/C main when you are connected to shore power and use the individual breakers (electrical panel switches) to power various appliances. The various switches are self-explanatory, and can be individually turned on or off as desired. An Amp meter located next to the Panel will help you monitor the power consumption from the 12-Volt system as various components are used. The AC outlets only function while the boat is connected to shore power. If the AC plugs are not “on,” check the GFCI’s in the 9 receptacle just past the chart table. If power is lost, check the AC circuit breaker located on the aft bulkhead in the large cockpit storage locker. Reset the breakers as necessary, which should then power up the AC side of the Electrical Panel. AC (120V) Temporary Power ISLAND ESCAPE also has a portable 300 watt inverter that can be used on a short term, limited basis to provide AC (120 V) power when a shore connection is not feasible. The primary application for using the inverter is to recharge a phone, but can also be used to power up the TV/DVD player when at anchor and thus AC shore power is unavailable. Both the TV and DVD units operate on AC (120 V) power only. Hence the inverter is necessary in order to operate these units from the house battery system (12 V) whenever shore power (AC) is not available. A double 12 volt plug is provided for this purpose. Please leave the TV attached to the cabinet wall. A larger screen is located alongside the DVD player in the forward cabin on the port side, which can alternatively be connected. The inverter and DVD unit are stored in the forward berth on the port side, where the inverter is plugged into the 12V system. You can also use the inverter for powering other small appliances, such as laptops, game boys, phone chargers and CPAP units that do not draw much amperage. Electric hairdryers, razors, recharging units, and things that require high amperage will not work. Revised/Updated 11/2014 The Battery Charger also operates on AC (120V). TURN OFF the AC Battery Charger switch on the electrical panel before starting the Engine in order to prevent damage to the charger or batteries. DC (12V) Battery Power Please acquaint yourselves with all the DC switches and what each switch operates or controls. The Main DC switch controls all the functions on the left side of the electrical panel. The DC Circuit Breaker RESET is located on the bulkhead below the chart table. Anchor Windlass The switch is located on the electrical panel but there is also a circuit breaker on the bulkhead below the chart table. See anchor section for details regarding use of the windlass. If the chain jams and/or the windlass is used to pull the boat up to the anchor (instead of using the engine in low-forward gear) it is likely that the Circuit Breaker will open and power to the deck switches will be lost. Chargers & Cellular Telephones ISLAND ESCAPE is equipped with 6 12-volt “cigarette lighter” outlets that may be used for recharging your cellular telephone. To activate the plug on the port side of the steering pedestal in the cockpit, turn on the “Charger” breaker switch on the DC side of the main electrical panel. Cellular/wireless phone reception in the Islands can be quite variable by individual carrier. Be aware that Roaming Charges can be quite expensive, especially when wireless calls are routed through Canadian cellular services. This frequently happens when in the vicinity of both Stewart Island and Sucia Island even when in US waters. The inverter in the forward berth can also be used for charging items like ipods and cell phones. House Lights The interior lights on ISLAND ESCAPE are all controlled by a single breaker on the DC Electrical Panel. BUT there are both individual light switches and group switches, depending on which set of lights are to be used. Just outside the Head, close to the LP Gas switch, there is a single White light switch that 10 controls most (but not all) of the recessed ceiling lights as a single circuit. Separately, there are small pole switches on the ceiling light at the base of the companionway steps and those in the forward and rear berth compartments. The wall-mounted swivel lights are also controlled by small switches on the lamp base. Adjust the lighting to your needs. ELECTRONICS The depth sounder, wind instrument, and autopilot are all Raytheon products. There are laminated Raytheon-prepared quick operating reference guides in the white SJS Charter notebook (or, in the chart table) to assist in using the various instruments. If you take them out during your charter, please return them to the notebook for the next charter guests. Detailed User Guides are included in the literature packets stored in the storage compartments below the Chart Table. The power for the navigation instruments is activated by turning on the Autopilot Switch on the DC control panel. Revised/Updated 11/2014 Autopilot Island Escape is equipped with an autopilot unit that can be used to steer the boat on a pre-set course while the Skipper is preoccupied with other short-term tasks or for extended open passages where obstructions, other boats, or shallow water are NOT likely. IT IS IMPERATIVE that full attention be given to sailing conditions and the location and course of the boat at all times. The autopilot is only an aid for sailing/cruising and is not a substitute for a primary focus on conditions and safety. The unit will NOT independently steer the boat into heavy weather or strong seas. This may cause the control mechanism to disengage and/or the drive belt to slip. The Autopilot is activated by using the Autopilot breaker switch on the DC Panel. This is the same switch used to activate the other electronic instruments as well. There are TWO controls that are used in combination. When steering a desired course, the black clutch lever located on the starboard side of the wheel is pushed downward into a locked position. Then, the toggle buttons on the instrument head are used to engage/disengage the unit (“Standby” disengages the unit’s compass control mechanism) while pressing again will engage the unit. IN ADDITION, the clutch lever MUST also be disengaged when switching to “Standby” by bringing it up to a horizontal unlocked position. Leaving the clutch lever engaged will quickly damage the motor/drive unit due to manual steering of the boat using the wheel against the tight friction of the drive unit. The round disk in the center of the wheel can be used to tighten or loosen the steering as needed for short periods. If you are finding the boat difficult to steer(hard to move the wheel) someone may have tightened this and it may need to be loosened. Autohelm is also connected to the Raymarine Plotter. Please see Raymarine booklet in plastic case under navigation table for more information. 11/2014 Furuno Color Chart Plotter and Radar This instrument is installed at the helm. The radar switch at the electrical panel powers up this unit and the other instruments. Then use the Power Brill button on the display unit at the helm to turn the plotter on/off. A “long press” will turn the unit off and on. A “momentary press” opens the display for adjustment of brilliance, etc. Rotate the “Enter” knob to make adjustments, and then press to enter your selection of menu options or adjustments. An abbreviated “User Guide” is located in the plastic case under the navigation table and will answer most routine operating instructions. The instrument’s full User 11 Manual is also in the book rack. The plotter is fairly simple to use, and is much like a standard GPS with map plotter. You won’t hurt it by experimenting with the various functions a bit to learn basic operations. Please leave all basic setup functions as pre-set so that other users can easily operate the system. Raymarine Color Chart Plotter New for 2013 a C90 was installed. A booklet on usage is available in the plastic case under the navigation table. This is not a radar, as the furuno radar was left in place. Having 2 systems allows you to use the furuno for radar and raymarine for map plotter, or to have one zoomed out for the bigger picture and one zoomed in to see rocks and hazards! 11/2014 We recommend that in addition to using your PRIMARY navigation aids – namely, the Maptech waterproof chart book or the roll charts (with the most active “killer rocks” marked in red) – up in the cockpit while underway, you also utilize the chartplotter for added safety. It helps you to see if you are where you think you are on the chart book or paper charts. If someone asks, “Where are we?”Within 3 seconds, you need to be able to point to the chart and show them the vessel’s precise position. If you can’t, you’re in danger of hitting a rock. The only time when the chartplotter becomes your primary navigation tool is when you’re in a “tight spot” like going through a narrow pass or approaching the entrance to a secluded cove. (With the chart plotter, you can “zoom in” to make something that is the size of a dime on a paper chart into the size of a paperback novel or larger on the screen. You can see more detail and, importantly, any hazards in the area. Your boat’s position on the chart plotter is accurate to within 3 meters – about 10 feet. ) You should have little need of the radar except for the highly unlikely event that you are suddenly enveloped by fog, which is rare in this area. The fog that we’ve encountered in the islands usually forms in the wee hours of the morning and burns off by mid-day. So if it’s a little soupy after breakfast, we put on an extra pot of coffee until it lifts. Never depart from a safe location into the fog! To do so, even with radar, would be contrary to prudent seamanship. FYI – Fog becomes “reduced visibility” when you can see ¼ mile (about 4 football fields) in all directions. It is safe to proceed CAREFULLY in reduced visibility using your radar to “see” beyond the haze, but be sure to look up from the screen about every 10 secondsand use your eyes to scan the horizon forward, behind, and side to side. A motor yacht, tanker or freighter traveling at 20 knots takes only 39 seconds to travel ¼ mile! You need to see these fast-moving vessels sooner-rather-than-later so you can prepare, if indicated, to quickly take evasive action to avoid an impending collision Depth Sounder The digital depth sounder will not give accurate readings beyond 200’. It is designed for use in shallow waters. In deeper water, the sensitivity on the unit increases as the transducer tries to get some reading back. Consequently, you will receive many false readings caused by currents, changes in water temperature, fish, and seaweed. Use the depth sounder only as an aid to navigation in shallow water. However, the key to avoiding rocks is not the depth sounder—but knowing where you are at all times. Rocks are the greatest navigational and safety hazard in the islands—but they are all clearly marked on the official government charts. San Juan Sailing has also clearly marked danger areas in RED on the charts. We do not recommend using the alarm. It is likely to sound at inappropriate times such as late at night while fish are passing beneath the transducer. While underway USE BOTH the charts provided aboard AND the chart plotter. Also, remember that most driftwood (including large logs) FLOAT and MOVE and must be spotted visually in order to avoid serious damage to the driveshaft and prop. 12 Remember, the depth sounder is set to the water line, and the boat draws 6.5 feet. Revised 11/2014 Knot Meter If the digital knot meter shows a reading of “0.00” while underway, the impeller is most likely clogged with a piece of eelgrass. Sometimes it will float off overnight. You can also try removing it by powering in reverse for a short distance. However, the GPS input to the chart plotter also provides an alternative and quite accurate indication of speed over the ground. The knot meter indicates movement relative to the water, and is impacted by tidal current, etc. The knot meter is located under the floorboard just behind the front cabin doorway. If it is not functioning, it can be cleaned out be unscrewing and removing the plug. Please note: Sea water will come in and flow into the bilge. When replacing the knot meter be sure that it is lined up in the direction of the boat travel. 11/2014 VHF Radio You should monitor channel 16 (the hailing and distress channel) during your cruise (It’s the LAW). For non-emergency communications, after establishing contact on channel 16, switch to working channels 68, 69, or 79. Scan the weather channels for the one with the best reception before sailing in the morning and prior to anchoring for the evening. Remember to use proper procedures when using the VHF and, in most cases, use the low power option to reduce on-channel congestion and interference. This is generally a light wind region but weather changes can be sudden. Listen for the “inland waters of western Washington”. You will hear “Strait of Juan de Fuca” (lies south of the San Juan Islands), “Georgia Strait” (lies north), and “Rosario Strait” (runs through the eastern part of the San Juan Islands). The remote access microphone (RAM), when plugged into the forward side of the pedestal, controls all radio functions of the unit mounted above the navigation station from the steering station. This can be very convenient while entering and leaving moorings. To operate the Remote VHF, first carefully plug the unit into the pedestal connector, and then turn on the panel breaker AND the main VHF radio switch. Then activate the ON switch for the remote. If the VHF is turned on before the handheld is plugged in it will not work. In case of a distress where you can no longer stand by the radio to pass your mayday, use the red distress button on the radio. First flip up the cover, then press the button. San Juan Sailing monitors channel 80 during office hours (closed Sundays). By phone you can also reach the San Juan Sailing office at (800) 677-7245 or San Juan Sailing owner, Roger Van Dyken, at (360) 2244300 (cell) or (360) 354-5770 (home). Additional emergency contact numbers are also included in the Charter Guest Reference Manual onboard. Wind Indicator The wind indicator is mounted at the masthead. The instrument indicates both apparent and true wind angle and wind speed in knots. A small black square appears on the screen below the “True” or “Apparent” labels, designating which setting is currently active. A small placard is included (normally in the Chart Table) giving further details. 13 EMERGENCY/SAFETY In addition to the notes on Safety at the beginning of these notes you will find the following items on board: Fire Extinguishers –3 - cockpit locker, companionway, and forward stateroom. Life Sling and gear – located on the stern railing and stern lazarette Flare Kit –port cockpit locker Fog Horn - (manual) and extra canisters – cockpit locker and spare in chart table Radar Reflector – Shelf in cockpit locker Emergency tiller – cockpit locker Emergency rudder post – cockpit locker Flashlights – 2 – chart table and companion way First Aid Kit – under sink in head. Spotlight –a high powered Led/Halogen handheld rechargeable Spotlight is located in the forward cabin, port side. It is AC/DC rechargeable as well as “hand crank.” Absorbent Pads (Diesel spill while fueling, etc) – forward shelf, cockpit locker ENGINE ISLAND ESCAPE is powered by a 27 HP Yanmar Diesel engine. This is a very reliable engine and is the MOST IMPORTANT MECHANICAL SYSTEM aboard. Understanding how to use the engine is absolutely essential for having an enjoyable and stress-free charter experience. Please make an extra effort to fully understand the engine system before leaving the San Juan Charter docks. Ask questions, and practice all operations and functions BEFORE departing from the docks. Starting the Engine ALWAYS check that the thru-hull valve for the engine cooling water intake is OPEN before starting the engine! THEN: Check the oil level. Island Escape consumes very little oil during cruising and rarely needs oil added. Access to the engine is by unlatching the companionway stairs and pulling them towards you. The dipstick is accessed by tilting the stairs forward and locating the dipstick (with colored flagging) on the lower starboard side of the engine. There is a wide gap on the dipstick between the full line and the fill line. IF oil is needed, do not overfill. Use the onboard spare oil to add no more than a cup at a time. Then check the level again. Overfilling can be harmful to a diesel engine. The excess oil will escape somehow, perhaps by blowing the head gasket. Also, if the dipstick seemingly indicates no oil the first time you check it, reinsert and try again - the correct level will show when the air lock bubble is broken. Expect the oil to be blacker than that of a gasoline powered automobile engine. This is normal for a diesel after only a few hours of operation. While the cover is removed, check the coolant levels. Check for belt tightness and leaking fluids. Secure the companionway engine cover. Visually inspect the clear raw water strainer to make sure there is no eel grass stuck in it (under the floorboard hatch at the base of the companionway stairs where the thru hull fittings are located). Look over the stern for things that could foul the propeller. Make sure the gearshift (black handle at the pedestal) is in neutral (straight up) Push the black clutch pin on the handle in, and then push the throttle lever about 1/3 forward. This increases the rpm while leaving it in neutral. Do NOT put the transmission into forward gear! Insert the key and turn it clockwise. There is not a glow-plug on this engine. The warning buzzer will sound because there is no oil pressure. 14 Press and hold the starter button. Expect the engine to start in 5 seconds or less. If the engine doesn’t start after 10 seconds of cranking, turn the key to the left and remove it. Wait 15 seconds and try again. An emergency start button is located in the engine compartment UNDER THE STEPS if the regular starter fails. Revised/Updated 11/2014 After the engine starts, release the start button, check for water gurgling out the exhaust, then gradually ease the throttle back to a slow idle. Please allow 5 minutes of warm up before placing a load on the engine. Except in an emergency!. It is very hard on a diesel to be placed under load when cold. Shifting Transmission Gears When you bring the throttle back to the straight up position, the clutch pin will pop out. Now you may engage forward gear by pushing ahead on the throttle or reverse gear by pulling back on the throttle. Please remember to pause in the straight up (neutral) position when shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa. This engine tends to shudder if shifting goes rapidly from forward to reverse. Shift slowly, going thru neutral for a few seconds. New transmissions are expensive! Engine Operation The 27 HP Yanmar 3 GM series engines are very reliable. Cruising speed is approx. 6 knots at 2800 RPM. Refuel when the fuel drops below ¼ full in order to avoid the possibility of sucking air or sludge into the engine when the fuel level approaches 1/8 full. Based on using 75% of the 37gallon fuel capacity yields an approximate 300-350 NM range. Please do not exceed 3000 RPM. It is hard on the diesel to push past the designed hull speed and will yield very little increase in speed. Running at higher engine RPM will significantly increase fuel consumption. At 2800 RPM, the engine uses about 0.50 to 0.79gal/hr in relatively smooth water (depending on currents and wind). Engine Overheat The engine should normally run at about 160-170 degrees (F). Check the gage frequently. If the buzzer sounds after the engine is running, immediately check the exhaust discharge on the transom. The alarm buzzer is more likely to indicate engine overheating. If water is NOT exiting the discharge port, there is a strong likelihood that the cooling water intake filter is blocked or that the water pump is malfunctioning. Turn off the engine. Check the coolant level after the engine cools down. If there is no water discharged, the seawater strainer is likely plugged with eelgrass. The best solution is to prevent this problem from occurring —keep alert for eelgrass masses, especially along those “soapy” tide and eddy lines in the water. If eelgrass gets sucked into the engine cooling water intake, it jams the raw water strainer. IF you are motoring and see a patch of eel grass that can not be avoided, slip the engine into neutral and glide through the bed of eelgrass. To clear the strainer first raise the floorboard just forward of the companionway stairs for access. Before clearing the strainer, close the seacock below the strainer, and then remove the top of the strainer by turning it counterclockwise. Extract the stainless steel filter element. Remove the eelgrass. Open the seacock momentarily to assure that it is not clogged. Close the seacock again and carefully reinsert the stainless steel filter element into the strainer. Replace the lid and tighten by turning it clockwise until the lid is seated on the rubber gasket. Be sure to REOPEN THE SEACOCK! 15 If the engine overheats again upon restarting, check that you remembered to reopen the seacock. If it is open, check the seal between the strainer and its lid. If the strainer is drawing air, it won’t draw water. (If needed, shut the engine down, close the seacock and open and retighten the lid on the strainer.) If water IS exiting the discharge port, the engine has most likely lost oil pressure. Check the oil pressure gauge frequently. Immediately shut down the engine, check the oil level, and if pressure is not restored contact the Maintenance Professional and/or San Juan Sailing. See emergency contact numbers in the white SJS Charter notebook. Revised/Updated 11/2014 Engine Shutdown. Do NOT turn off or remove the ignition key while the engine is running! First bring the engine to idle and the gearshift to neutral. Allow the engine 5 minutes to cool down. Then pull the fuel cut-off handle at deck level, down by your left foot. After the engine stops, turn off the ignition and remove the key. FUEL TANK Diesel refill fitting is located starboard, stern deck, aft of the railing. A universal key to open the fitting is in the chart table. Please be very careful when fueling. The 37-gallon tank is located under the aft berth. Never allow maximum flow from the filler hose. If you do, the fill tube will surge and diesel will spill from the vents onto the side and onto the deck. It takes only a few drops of diesel fuel in the water to create sheen and subject you to a Coast Guard fine. Fill slowly and carefully. When the pipe begins to gurgle like it is full, you are probably full. You may also be able to see the diesel when looking down into the fill tube. Check the side vent and, with soap, wipe up any excess fuel to avoid yellowing the stern and polluting the water. Also be very careful of drips when removing the hose. Diesel and shoe bottoms are a very slippery and dangerous combination. After wiping, please use soapy water to scrub down any drips so it does not stain the fiberglass . HATCH BOARD STORAGE. The two piece hatch boards can be safely and securely stored in the canvas pockets mounted on the inside bulkhead of the large cockpit locker. This pocket unit is made to fit as well as to protect the Plexiglas and Teak boards. Please use this pocket accessory to keep the boards protected and out of the way. HEAD AND HOLDING TANK. Please do not put anything in the toilet that hasn’t been eaten. Deposit toilet paper (and feminine items) in the waste basket next to the toilet, not down the toilet. Zip loc bags also work well. ISLAND ESCAPE has a 30-gallon holding tank mounted in the rear swim step locker of the boat on the starboard side. San Juan Sailing staff will discuss holding tanks and pump-outs at the pre-departure Skipper’s Orientation held upon your arrival Flushing A Holding Tank Full red indicator light is located on the navigation station bulkhead below the electronics panel and has been calibrated to empty and full. The Red light will light when the tank is nearly full. The separate Tank Indicator that gives levels for Fuel and Water is NOT accurate and should not be used for the holding tank. (Also see information under heading “Water – Hot and Cold Pressure System/Holding Tank” in these notes). Flushing may be done by pump-out at several stations located throughout the cruising area, although facilities are somewhat limited. 16 Island Escape has a macerator pump and discharge thru-hull valve as explained below. This should be used only in broad, open waters where there is good water circulation and NOT activated in port or at anchorages! See the basic pumping procedure printed on the pump handle unit, and the small instruction chart posted in the Head. First, move the lever to the “Wet” (Left) position and pump 2-3 full strokes to wet the bowl. Use the head, and then move the lever to the “Dry (Right) position and pump until the bowl is completely clear. Reopen the intake (“Wet”) and pump several times to fully clear the discharge line to the holding tank. This may take 6-7 or more full strokes. Finally move the lever to the closed (Dry) position, and pump to fully clear the bowl. IF there is any backflow, the discharge line needs to be cleared (“Dry”) to avoid both odor and spillage! A new head and lines were installed for 2013. Revised/Updated 11/2014 Emptying the Holding Tank: The holding tank may be emptied by either use of shore-based pump-out stations or by use of the macerator pump and thru-hull valve. The tank may be pumped when convenient and it is preferable to empty the tank regularly instead of simply waiting until the ‘full’ indicator light appears. Avoid pumping when located in a small bay or anchorage. Pump-out may be accomplished when underway. A separate deck pump-out connection is provided for use when using shore-based pump-out stations. Follow the instructions posted at the station facilities. Procedures for use of the macerator pump-out are given below: 1. The master thru-hull valve is located inside the port-side swim step locker. For safety and to avoid the need to access the swim step while the boat is underway in open waters, the holding tank discharge line is plumbed with an air loop so that once opened the valve may be left open while the vessel is in active use. The holding tank will retain all materials in the tank until the macerator pump is activated. The thru-hull valve handle should be pointing in the same direction as the hose when open: yellow handle up. When closed: the yellow handle will be pointing side-ways. 2. When the discharge valve has been opened (see above) first turn on the primary macerator switch located on the 12-volt control panel. 3. Push and hold the secondary macerator button just under this switch until no waste can be seen exiting the stern of the boat. This may take three to four minutes. When the effluent is frothy and bubbly, the tank is empty. Slowing the engine to forward/idle and having a crew member listen for a change in pitch of the macerator motor from inside the aft cabin is a good way to know when the tank is empty and to avoid burning out the motor. It is desirable to also rinse the tank by liberally flushing (+/- 100 ‘pumps’) water through the toilet and repeat the discharge process to reduce clogging and odors. Release the secondary macerator button to stop pump operation. Then, turn off the main macerator switch on the panel. If the toilet flushing pump starts to resist your flushing efforts, DO NOT continue or force the handle down. Exploding or leaking sewage is most unpleasant! Search out the problem and correct it. If you pump out the holding tank at a shore facility, please fill it with fresh water through the deck fitting to rinse, and then pump it out again. The pump-out deck fitting is located aft, just under the barbecue on the starboard side. Don’t confuse this with the Diesel Fuel fitting! If the handle is just becoming stiff due to a dry gasket add small amount vegetable oil found under bathroom sink and pump on the wet setting. 17 HEATER/DIESEL The Webasto diesel cabin heater is located in the outboard portion of the port swim locker. Because the unit becomes very hot, a longitudinal panel separates it from the cabin wall. The heater is a forced-air system, so check to see if the outlets are opened or closed in the forward berth, salon, and/or aft berth as desired. Adjust to personal preferences. Revised/Updated 03/2013 The heater control is located above the Chart Table, to the right of the Stereo and above the AC Electrical Panel. The “Off-Heat” switch turns the heater on and off. The Up-Down arrows are used to set the desired salon temperature. After setting the temperature, the digital dial will revert to showing the current temperature and the heater will activate as necessary to reach/hold the desired temperature. The fan will continue to run while the unit is cooling down. There are outlets at floor level in each cabin and in the main salon. The heat is dry, comfortable, and on those rainy days or cool evenings, makes a huge difference in cruising comfort! Please be patient! It may take several minutes for the heater to ignite once it is turned on and the thermostat set. You will likely hear the fan operating during the startup phase. There is ALSO an electric back-up heater located underneath the starboard side seat cushion INVERTER – See AC Temporary Power and Electrical Power MICROWAVE Use only when plugged into shore power!! There is a switch for this on the AC panel. OUTBOARD MOTOR – Island Escape is equipped with a 4-stroke Suzuki 2.5 horsepower outboard. This brand and size has proven to be a practical and VERY reliable dinghy outboard. DO NOT add any oil to the gasoline mixture – it uses just straight gasoline. The fill cap is located at the top of the engine. As a courtesy we have an additional red spare gasoline container tied into your dinghy. WARNING – Gasoline fumes are explosive and a very dangerous fire hazard if stored on a boat. Keep the spare gasoline container in the dinghy and tied to the transom so it stays upright. NEVER store the spare gasoline container in a locker, lazarette, or any other storage area on your vessel. The outboard is light so it’s easy to transfer from the stern rail outboard mount to the dinghy transom (and vice versa). PLEASE do not cruise with the outboard on the dinghy. It will no longer work after saltwater gets into or even near the intake of the carburetor. If this happens, you will have to condition your rowing muscles until you get back to Bellingham). We also recommend taking the outboard off the dinghy at night. We have actually had dinghies deflate in the cool of the night and had wind waves or powerboat wakes flip the dinghy over. It’s a disturbing sight first thing in the morning to see your outboard propeller sticking straight up, with the motor under the water. At that point it’s nothing more than a very ineffective $900 anchor. To Start. (Ensure the outboard is on the dinghy and in the water to start; water provides the cooling.) Open the air vent on the top of the fuel cap (top of outboard) by turning counter-clockwise. 1. Push the fuel valve lever (starboard aft corner of the outboard) aft to open the fuel valve. 2. Turn the red fuel cock lever to the left. 3. Ensure the SHIFT lever is in NEUTRAL or the dinghy will move forward as you start the engine. (There is no reverse) 4. Make sure the black U-shaped kill clip (with the red lanyard) is clipped into the red shut-off knob (port forward corner of the outboard). 5. If the engine is cold, pull out the choke. 18 6. Turn the throttle slightly. 7. Pull the rip cord until it starts. (You shouldn’t have to pull it more than 5 times.) 8. If used, push choke back in. 9. Warm up engine for 5 minutes. While Running. 1. With throttle in idle, move the shift lever to FORWARD 2. There is no REVERSE. If you need to reverse direction, turn the motor 180 degrees. Works great. To Shut Off. 1. Shut the outboard off by pushing in the red shut-off knob (where the kill clip is clipped in). Or just pull the red lanyard until the clip pops off. 2. To avoid prop damage, shut the outboard off and raise it out of the water before you reach the shore. Pull the outboard forward and out of the water until it clicks at stays in place. To put the outboard shaft back in the water, release the stainless steel lever on the starboard side of the shaft. When Not in Use. 1. Put the outboard back on the outboard mount on the stern rail and tighten both braces. 2. Push the fuel valve lever forward to close. 3. Close the air vent on top of the fuel cap (top of outboard) by turning it clockwise. 4. Secure the outboard further by tying the safety lanyard with to the stern rail. Troubleshooting. If the engine won’t start, review steps 1-7 above to make sure you’ve done all 6 steps. There is a spare spark plug and spark plug wrench in the tool box in case the engine won’t start or is running rough. (A new spark plug solves myriad outboard problems. If you use the spare spark plug, notify your check-in skipper upon your return so a new one can be placed aboard for future guests.) If the outboard is running and you’re heading toward shore, and the engine suddenly quits, it’s usually that someone has forgotten to vent the fuel cap. If the engine is running fine but the propeller isn’t moving, the shear pin is probably broken – just take the cotter pin out to remove the propeller and replace the broken shear pin (a spare pin is located forward of the shaft under the handle grip) and put the propeller and new pin back into place. Revised 12/2014 REFRIGERATOR & /FREEZER The well-insulated DC powered refrigerator/freezer must be turned on at the electrical panel. The thermostat is in the freezer compartment. The approximate dimensions of the refrigerator are 16”x 13”x 24” deep with two shelves. The freezer works best (coldest) when things are placed close to the internal freezer element. Items placed there will remain frozen, or will freeze items such as containers for ice. Freezer dimensions are 14” x 13”x 21” deep with one shelf. We recommend running the refrigerator during the day only, turning it off, or reducing the refrigeration and keeping the cover tight at night. This will help conserve the house battery power unless you are plugged in to shore power and have the battery charger turned on. Water from the refrigerator/freezer drains into the sink drain. Revised/Updated 11/2014 19 SAILS and RIGGING. Sailing & Handling Characteristics. ISLAND ESCAPE is a delight to sail. Her sail plan features a 130% roller-furling jib and an in-mast furling main, without spinnaker. This sail plan was selected with consideration for single or short -handed sailing as well as relaxed cruising. Under power, she backs hard to port. However, once she has sternway, she is easily steered with small rudder changes. Her perfect breeze is 15-20 knots with heel at 15-20 degrees. Full sail can be carried in winds up to 18-20 knots. It is easy to use the roller furling to incrementally shorten your sails. If you shorten the jib, you may want to move the jib cars forward to get a better sail shape and more control. CAUTION: Be sure to close and lock the forward hatch when preparing to raise sails as the jib sheet can be caught in it when tacking and the hatch could be damaged or pulled off. Both sails have roller furling. This makes it possible for one person to easily handle all the sails. Brief instructions are as follows: Main Sail Island Escape is equipped with the Selden “Furlin’ main sail furling and reefing system, with In-Mast Mainsail. A few minutes to acquaint yourself with this system for mainsail reefing and furling will be well worth the effort once you leave the dock and are underway. The key components of this system are: In-Mast Furling Reefing Winch (located below the Boom on the aft side of the mast Clew Outhaul “Endless” Furling Line (solid blue line) led to cockpit (Port side of Companionway) Clam-cleats for locking “Endless Line” With an in-mast rig, in normal conditions, it’s recommended that the head sail be deployed first (while underway). The mast bows slightly aft at the top. By deploying the head sail first, the pressure of the wind in that sail tends to straighten up the mast. This makes it easier for the main to deploy from within a plumb mast. So provided that the wind is less than 20 knots, steer to a course of approx. 60 degrees to the wind (close reach). Deploy the head sail first. To do this un-cleat the furling line on the starboard side of the cockpit. Pull the jib sheet to deploy sail. The wind will assist in deploying this. Control how much jib is released by keeping tension on the furling line, and cleating when the desired amount of sail has been deployed. Now you may throttle down and place the engine in neutral, sailing on the head sail alone. Shut down the engine. Now you’re ready to deploy the main. If you’re in high wind (20+ knots) conditions, you may prefer to deploy the mainsail head-to-wind instead. That’s okay; but in this situation, deploy the main first. (Since you’re in high winds, only partially deploy the main so it’s in effect “reefed”.) Once deployed, fall off and begin sailing...just like you would on a vessel with a conventional main. Then partially deploy the head sail. Be conservative with the amount of sail you deploy in high winds. If you’ve been too conservative, you can easily deploy more sail area while sailing. To deploy the main 1. Open both clam cleats on the line stoppers holding the “Endless Line” - the solid black lines on the port housetop. It is the circular line that turns the Reefing Winch on the mast. The Reefing Winch has a control 20 lever which can be set to “lock” (ratchet) the line or alternatively to ‘free’ which releases the winch to allow the line to move freely. This line is continuous and the splice where the line is joined is bulky and may stick or jam at the clam cleat on the cabin house. Simply pull the line through the cleat opening by hand in order to free the line while deploying the main sail. 2. Pull the Clew Outhaul line at the Clam Cleat on the starboard housetop until the sail is all the way out and then snub it down. Be careful not to force the outhaul or you will do damage to the rigging and the sail. If it does not respond to moderate force check for the hang-up. The wind pressure on the main will actually help the main to deploy. BECAUSE IT IS A NEW SAIL, YOU MAY NEED TO USE THE ENDLESS LINE TO BEGIN TO HELP UNFURL THE MAIL. ONE PULL IS USUALLY ENOUGH TO GET IT GOING. 3. Using the primary winch is advised as the sail nears full set position. Adjust the sail angle with the main sheet adjustment or traveler (located on the overhead dodger support stainless bar). Reefing & Furling the mainsail You have infinite reef points with an in-mast furling main. You can deploy as little or as much sail area as you determine is appropriate for wind conditions you encounter. And you can reef an in-mast main while sailing and from the safety of the cockpit! When you need to reef or furl the main, it’s best to allow the sail to fill slightly with the wind just over the bow. It can be furled in either direction, but it is easiest if you pull the right side when on a port tack and the left side when on a starboard tack as it rolls in more easily (if you watch it roll into the mast you will see which is the preferred way. Try to not make it take a 90 degree turn to furl into mast as it is much harder to do). In order to avoid jamming, do not allow the main to luff much during this procedure. For best furling, and to avoid sail snarling, the main should be furled with the boat tight against the wind, not directly into the wind. In a steady breeze, one person can set the autopilot, adjusting to assure the relative breeze is appropriate, and handle the furling line. Reefing or furling works best when a slight drag is placed on the outhaul to assure some tension on the sail as it disappears into the mast. Simply allow the outhaul to slide through a light grip will do the trick. It’s also possible to take a single wrap around the port cabin top winch with the outhaul line to produce some drag and a smooth wrap. It is also important to make sure the boom vang and mainsheet are eased to assure a smooth wrap of the sail in the mast. The first time you furl the main, you may want to have one person handle the furling loop and another to guide the outhaul tension. It takes a bit to get used to. Also, be aware that re-tensioning of the main halyard may be necessary from time to time if you find the lower luff at the sail’s tack will not wrap into the furling slot. If you have difficulty in beginning the furling of the main, check to make sure the lower luff is in the slot. If not, try tensioning the main halyard just a bit. The Mainsail may be reefed at any intermediate position by first setting the Reefing Winch to “FREE” and then carefully slacken off the outhaul line. Continue easing off the Clew Outhaul to roll in the desired amount of sail. The leach should be kept fairly taught. Keep slight tension on the outhaul to do this. Use the Primary Winch to take up the slack on the Endless Loop. When the desired amount of sail is rolled in, use the clew outhaul to stretch the foot of the sail. Make both ‘sides’ of the “Endless” reefing line fast to prevent slip on the Reefing Winch. If reefing from the mast, activate the lock (Ratchet”) on the Reefing Winch before reefing the sail. Use a winch handle, but NEVER leave the handle in the Winch! As noted, the mainsail Reefing Winch has a lever with two settings on it: “ratchet” and “free”. In higher wind situations this lever will need to be set to “ratchet” to help hold the mainsail in a reefed position and 21 reduce stress on the Primary Winch. You will find a slight difference in operation between the “free” position and the “ratchet” position. In the “free” position the continuous furling line will work in both directions to furl the mainsail. In the “ratchet” position the “Endless” furling line will only furl in one direction. When leaving the boat, always lock the Reefing Winch to help reduce sail flutter. Island Escape will sail well with minimal weather helm in an 18-20 knot breeze under full sail. However, we recommend furling sooner rather than later as the wind rises. The furling line is a spliced loop. If the loop becomes bound in the furling drive pulley, make sure there are no binding points on the outhaul or sail then the drive pulley can be turned with gentle pressure on a winch handle inserted in the furling drive pulley at the mast. Please do not force furling. If you have a problem check to make sure the outhaul line is completely free, the halyard tensioned and the sail under some wind pressure from the port side. Attention should always be paid to the neatness and spiral of the sail wrap inside the mast. It there’s any sign of binding or doubling of the sail as it enters the mast, pull it out a little way using the outhaul and Re-furl. Never use a winch on the jib furling line, as it may damage the furling unit. IMPORTANT Be sure to keep plenty of tension on the outhaul in order to get a nice tight wrap of the mainsail inside the mast. The wind will help you get a nice tight wrap. Remember, if you furl the main without any wind pressure on it (if you’re head-to-wind in high winds or if you simply becalmed), tension on the outhaul line is the ONLY force that will get you a nice tight wrap inside the mast. And a loosely furled main inside the mast could mean a tough next deployment or, in the worst case, a jammed main. Now that you’re just sailing on a close reach on the head sail only, it’s time to start the engine and shift into forward in order to maintain your course of 60 degree off the wind. While holding course, furl in the head sail. And motor in to your anchorage or marina! SHOWER Hot water is stored in the insulated 6 gallon tank located under the aft bed. It takes about 30 minutes of running the engine under load to get hot water. When on shore power, you can switch on the AC (120 V) switch on the electrical panel to heat your water electrically (also in about 30 minutes). Experienced cruisers adhere to the sailor’s shower: “get wet, turn it off, soap up, rinse off”. Be sure to turn the sump pump on at the DC electric panel. CAUTION: the engine can heat the water to scalding temperatures! On warm, sunny days, an alternative to the below deck shower is the swim platform shower. This is also a good way to rinse off salt after swimming or dirt after going ashore. Revised/Updated 03/2013 SPARE PARTS AND TOOLS: ISLAND ESCAPE carries a modest supply of spare parts and working tools. An orange-red Spare parts box and round clear plastic container are stored with the tools in the forward compartment below the cushions of the dining settee. A few items are also stored in the primary Yellow Toolbox in the same location. An inventory listing of spares is provided in this notebook and a copy is included in the orange 22 box. The large Yellow Toolbox is located in the forward compartment below the cushions of the dining settee. A companion black Secondary Toolbox with socket and crescent wrenches, etc (a narrow Black box) is located in this same compartment. A Multi- Tester (electronic) is stored in the Chart Table. STOVE-PROPANE The gimbaled propane stove has two burners and an oven. Two propane tanks are located in the aft cockpit starboard locker. Propane is heavier than air and requires caution. For your safety, please carefully follow these procedures: Make sure all stove control knobs are in the “off” position! THEN: Open the main valve at the propane tank all the way open and very slightly snug. Turn the LPG switch on the DC control panel ON. Next activate the electric solenoid switch located on the navigation station wall. A red light will appear, and you’ll hear a click in the propane locker as the solenoid valve opens. Ideally, no match is necessary. Push and hold in the stove control knob for a few seconds and turn to the left to high. The burner should light immediately. However, it is often difficult to light the stove automatically, so having a propane starter available is prudent and is often necessary. The oven should also light automatically by pushing knob in, turning it until it clicks – then continue pressure on the knob and turn it to the desired temperature. Hold the knob for about 20 seconds, then release. When finished with the stove, shut off the burner(s), and then shut off the solenoid switch. (What little propane remains in the line from the tank to the galley is insignificant, and even if this tiny amount of propane were to leak into the cabin, it would not cause a problem.) If you do not intend to use the stove again in the next several hours, it is recommended that the main valve on the propane tank also be shut off. Both the solenoid valve and the hand valve protect against a potential propane leak into the main cabin. Please note that both propane valves – the hand valve and the solenoid valve – are located in the propane locker in the aft of the cockpit, which is isolated from the rest of the boat and is vented directly overboard. Any leaks within this compartment will vent down, out, and away from the boat. While the propane tanks normally last for two weeks or more, the San Juan Sailing staff fills the propane tanks regularly. The gauge only measures tank pressure, NOT the actual volume of propane remaining. It is increasingly difficult to locate sources of propane in the San Juan and Canadian Gulf Islands, so confirm with the San Juan Sailing staff that the tanks are properly filled before departure. Revised/Updated 11/2014 Appliances: Both a Milita and French Press are onboard. The Milita uses a #6 filter, and can be set to drain directly into a glass thermos server. The French Press is self-contained but does not include a thermos container. There are a toaster and an electric kettle for use when at dock and plugged in to AC power. These are usually located under the settee below the TV, or below the chart table. Using them both at the same time will trip the breaker on the ac panel, so they must be done one at a time. TRASH, DUSTPAN, HANDBROOM, VACUUM The boat has a built in dustpan located under the floorboard in the galley. This is where the small hand dustpan and broom are also stored. You may sweep directly into the built in dust pan and empty it at the end of your charter. There is a built-in Trash compartment on the Galley counter opposite the Chart Table. A standard plastic trash bag can be secured with a stretch “bungee” cord, allowing trash to be deposited directly from above. The bag can be released, tied, and stowed until convenient to deposit at an appropriate shore facility. There is a handheld AC vacuum stored under the settee by the chart table. 23 TV/DVD PLAYER Good-Acceptable TV reception is seldom available in the Islands. There is a selection of DVD’s available onboard. The TV/DVD operates on AC (120 V) power only. Hence, it is necessary to operate this system either using an AC plug while connected to Shore Power, OR to utilize the power inverter as discussed in Section 5 of these notes. There is a small screen located inside the port side cabinet, but there is also a large flat screen that can be used that is stored in the forward cabin on the port side. The DVD player is located on the port shelf of the forward cabin. The remote controls for both the TV and the DVD player are in the cabinet along with the screen. This system operates much like your home system, with the exception that it must be properly connected to the power Inverter when direct AC power is not available. (NOTE: this system can also be left connected to the inverter even when AC shore power is available and the battery charger is operating). To play a DVD, first turn the switch on the AC 120 VOLT Inverter to ‘ON” position (green light). Turn the screen on with the remote control (Gray) or with the switch on top of the screen. You can mute the static with the remote. Turn the DVD player on. Press the TV/VIDEO button on the TV (Grey) remote to select “Video”. Press the “OPEN/CLOSE” button on the top of the DVD (black) remote and load the DVD disc. Close the DVD tray. DVD should then start automatically. IF not, press the “PLAY” button on the DVD. All DVD controls (menu, fwd, etc) must be controlled with the black remote and it must be aimed at the DVD player. The Volume can be controlled with the grey TV remote. To STOP the DVD, press “STOP” and “OPEN/CLOSE” and take the DVD out. Change the TV back to regular channels by pressing the “TV/VIDEO” button twice. Turn off the screen, then the DVD player, then the Inverter. WATER – HOT & COLD PRESSURE SYSTEM The Galley, Head, and Swim Step wash down systems are pressurized with both hot and cold water supplies. The 6 gallon hot water tank is relatively small, so hot water should be used sparingly. The water will heat either by running the engine or by shore power (see above relative to the shower). Heating from air temperature takes approximately 30 minutes. FRESH WATER The fresh water pump switch is located on the DC electrical panel. Please switch this off when motoring or sailing. If a tap is running and you do not hear the pump running due to the sound of motoring or sailing you could burn out the water pump and end up with no water! Revised/Updated 03/2013 Tankage Island Escape has the following tank capacities: Fuel (Diesel) 38 gallons Water (Fresh) 75 gallons Holding Tank 30 gallons Water Heater 6 gallons Fresh Water Tank 24 The fresh water tank fill is located inside the anchor locker at the bow. Please use the WHITE hose located in the port cockpit locker to fill the fresh water. An examination port is located under the V Berth cushions. With reasonable water conservation, you shouldn’t have a problem. Holding Tank Flushing the Head draws in sea water, so does not utilize the fresh water system, but excessive flushing does fill up the holding tank quickly! See also “Head and Holding Tank” in these notes. Remember, the gauge will ALWAYS read full, and the only way to know if the tank is full is when the holding tank light comes on. GUEST NOTES AND COMMENTS PLEASE MAKE A NOTE BELOW OF ANY SUGGESTIONS, CORRECTIONS, OR NEEDED CLARIFICATIONS FOR FUTURE REVISIONS! 25 ">

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Key features
- Sailboat 356 ISLAND ESCAPE
- In Mast Mainsail
- Power Windlass
- Storage
- Dual instruments
- Extended Battery Capacity
Frequently asked questions
The scope to use in the islands is 2-4-to-1 for the highest water depth you’ll encounter in the spot where you choose to drop anchor.
The electric anchor windlass first REQUIRES power from a switch on the navigation station D.C. panel.
ISLAND ESCAPE is equipped with a four deep cycle battery system. The 4 deep cycle batteries are connected in series to provide 400 ampere-hours for house 12 volt power requirements
ALWAYS check that the thru-hull valve for the engine cooling water intake is OPEN before starting the engine