I 30/55

I30/55
User's Manual · Gebruiksaanwijzing · Instruzioni per l'uso
Manuel d'utilisation · Manual del usario
578 006
20.12.2010 / 97-9637
www.hwam.com
Table of contents, English
Drawings...............................................................................
Installation Manual...........................................................
Mounting and Connection.........................................
Firing Manual – Wood...................................................
In General about Firing................................................
Cleaning................................................................................
Maintenance.......................................................................
Operational Problems..................................................
Declaration of Conformity.........................................
Type plate.............................................................................
4-6
7
8
10
12
13
13
15
16
59
4-6
37
38
40
42
43
43
45
46
59
Inhoud, Nederlands
Tekeningen...........................................................................
Installatiehandleiding......................................................
Montage en aansluiting................................................
Handleiding stoken – hout.........................................
Algemeen.............................................................................
Reiniging................................................................................
Onderhoud.........................................................................
Onregelmatigheden........................................................
Conformiteitsverklaring................................................
Typeplaatje...........................................................................
4-6
17
18
20
22
23
23
25
26
59
4-6
47
48
50
52
53
53
55
56
59
4-6
27
28
30
32
33
33
35
36
59
2
3
4
a 39,1 cm
A1
b
40,4
cm
1
6
5
A2
1
7
8
2
5
A3
1
5
B
4
6
1
1
1
D
C
1
2
3
G
E
2
1
1
2
1
H
F
Installation manual
English
Legislation
If the insert is to be mounted in a newly built, non-approved open fireplace, all legal requirements and
local building regulations must be observed. It would always be advantageous to consult your chimney
sweep before mounting the insert.
Room requirements
There must be a constant supply of fresh air to the room in which the insert is to be installed. A window
that opens or an adjustable air vent should suffice.
Please be aware that not all glass parts are heat-resistant. For this reason, a glass wall should sometimes
be treated as a flammable wall, in which case we ask you to contact your local chimney sweep or glass
producer to hear at what distance the insert should be kept from glass.
Distance to inflammable materials
Please refer to local building regulations to determine the size of the fireproof area in front of the
fireplace.
The insert must be positioned at least 30 cm above the floor if the floor is made of flammable material.
If inflammable material is located near the brickwork casing, there must be a minimum of 40 mm of nonflammable insulation (fire batt) between the casing and inflammable material. This applies to all of the
casing’s surfaces. The thermal conductivity of the insulation must be less than 0.09 W/m x K (as measured
at 200 ºC); i.e., thermal conductivity must be lower than 0.09 W/m x K.
Chimney requirements
The chimney must be of a sufficient height to enable an adequate draft and to prevent smoke problems.
Nominal draft: approx. 12 Pa.
The chimney must have a minimum opening equivalent to Ø 150 mm.
The chimney opening should always be at least the size of the outlet socket of the insert.
The chimney must have an easily accessible soot door.
Chimney
The chimney is the “motor” of the insert and it is crucial for the functioning of the woodburning insert.
The chimney draft provides a partial vacuum in the insert. This vacuum removes the smoke from the
insert, sucks air through the dampers for the so-called glass pane rinse which keeps the glass free of soot,
and sucks in air through both primary and secondary dampers for the combustion.
The chimney draft is created by the differences in temperature inside and outside the chimney. The
higher the temperature within the chimney, the better the draft. It is crucial, therefore, that the chimney
is warmed through properly before closing the damper and limiting the combustion in the insert (a brick
chimney takes longer to warm through than a steel chimney).
On days where the weather and wind conditions create insufficient draught inside the chimney, it is even
more important to warm up the chimney as quickly as possible. The trick is to quickly get some flames
going. Split the wood into extra fine pieces, use an extra firelighter, etc.
If the stove has not been used for a longer period, it is important to check that the chimney pipe is not
blocked.
It is possible to connect several devices to the same chimney. However, it is important to first check the
applicable rules. Contact your local chimney sweeper for the approval of your chimney.
Even a good chimney can function badly if it is not used correctly. Similarly, a bad chimney may function
well if it is used correctly.
Chimney sweeping
To prevent the risk of chimney fires, the chimney must be cleaned every year.The flue duct and the smoke
chamber above the baffle plate must be cleaned together with the chimney. If the chimney’s height makes
cleaning from above impossible, a cleaning hatch must be installed in the chimney.
In case of a chimney fire, close all dampers and call the firefighters. Before any further use, have the
chimney checked by the chimney sweeper.
Test results from nominal test EN 13229:
Nominal heating effect 6.0 kW
Smoke temperature 259°C
Exhaust gas flow 6.5 g/sec.
Mounting and connection (Drawing A)
The HWAM I 30/55 consists of a moveable, external brickwork casing, as well as an insert that is pushed
into place and connected once the brickwork casing has been assembled.
The HWAM I 30/55 can be connected in two ways:
1.Mounting and connecting in an existing fireplace.
2.New construction around the insert, possibly including heat ducts to other rooms.
1. Mounting and connecting in an existing fireplace (Drawing A1-A3).
Before mounting the insert in a brick-built fireplace, the regulating damper in the existing chimney must
be removed and the smoke neck, if any, should be widened so that the fire tube from the insert can be
connected directly to the chimney. Any bricks positioned on edge at the bottom of the fireplace should
also be removed.
In advance, decide with a specialist or the chimney sweep where a soot door (1) should be placed, so
that the fire tube can be cleaned from above while the door of the insert remains closed.
Mounting the smoke pipe (Drawing A1)
First mount the joining flange (2) with a suitable length of fire tubing or flexible tubing (3). Push the
inner pipe into the connector. The inner pipe must be turned so that the handle goes as far as possible
into the connector.
Trim approximately 3 fireproof batts of 50 mm each (4) so that they fit tightly into the chimney space
and cut a hole in the centre to fit tightly around the tube.
Place the fire tube in the chimney so that the joining flange corresponds to the given measurements.
a.Distance from front edge of the brick hole, if the insert must be flush with the brickwork.
b.Height over the bottom of the insert.
Now push the three batts up around the fire tube and press them up into the chimney thereby achieving
a compact and tight-fitting seal.
Installing the outer casing (Drawing A2)
If you would like to mount hoses in order to distribute a portion of the convection heat to other rooms,
push the two plates on each side of the smoke outlet hole on the casing outwards (see drawing H).
Push the outer casing (6) into place at the bottom of the fireplace. Carefully ensure that the outer casing
is level and that its front edge is flush with the brickwork.The three adjustment screws in the bottom of
the casing can be used for fine adjustment so that the casing is completely level (drawing F). Screw the
connector to the building-in cassette with the help of the self-tapping screws supplied.
If the gap between the fireplace aperture and the outer casing is to be closed with brickwork, there must
be a minimum distance of 5 mm around the outer casing The brickwork above the outer casing must
therefore be self-supporting. Attach the casing to the masonry with 1-3 screws in the base.
Mounting the insert (Drawing A3)
Remove the smoke shelf (7) from the insert. Remove the smoke deflector plate (8) from the insert.
Attach an Ø6 mm seal to the bottom the smoke outlet bushing. Then push the insert into place in the
brickwork casing. Push the inner pipe all the way into the liner’s smoke outlet connector. Afterwards,
remount the smoke deflector plate (8) and smoke shelf (7).
Seal between fire tube and chimney on top of the batts using heatproof mortar (5). This can be done
through the soot door (1) of the chimney, and should only be done when the insert is assembled.
Connecting external supply of fresh air
The HWAM I 30/55 can be connected to fresh air systems. The fresh air system can be purchased
separately.
2. Restructuring of brickwork around insert
During the reconstruction, the outer casing should be carefully levelled off at a suitable height. As the
reconstruction progresses, there should be a gap of min. 5 mm between the brickwork and the outer
casing. The frame of the outer casing has a width of 25 mm, though only 20 mm at the top. Any brickwork stretching across the outer casing must be self-supporting. Remember the screws between the
outer casing and the wall.
Fire tubes and any convection ducts to other rooms should be fitted to the outer casing during the
reconstruction.
The outer casing is not load-bearing. Therefore, fire tubes exceeding 2 m in length and, possibly, the
chimney, must be secured (using hangers) thus avoiding putting any load on the outer casing.
When the reconstruction has been completed, mount the insert as described in point 1.
Fitting the loose parts (Drawing C)
Before you start using the insert, you must ensure that all loose parts are fitted correctly.
a.Smoke plate (1). Must lie on the rear plate and on the slanting side plates. It must fall into position in
the track on the rear plate.
b. Steel smoke deflector plate (2). Is mounted on two hooks. To mount the plate, lift it up and lead to
the right until it is hanging on the two hooks.
Firing manual – wood
Your first heating session
When you light up for the first time, you must do it carefully as all materials must be introduced to the
heat gradually. The lacquer will be fully hardened after the insert has been light up for the first time. The
door must be opened carefully; otherwise there is a risk that the seals will stick to the lacquer. In addition
the lacquer may initially give off an unpleasant odour, so make sure that the room is well ventilated.
Tips about fuel:
Approved fuel types
The insert is EN approved for combustion of wood only. It is recommended to use dried chopped wood
with a water content of a maximum of 20%. Stoking a fire with wet wood results in soot, environmental
problems, and a less efficient fuel economy.
Recommended wood types
All types of wood, for instance birch, beech, oak, elm, ash, conifers, and fruit trees can be used as fuel in your
insert. The great difference is not in the fuel value, but in the weight of the wood types per cubic metre.
Since beech weighs more per cubic metre than for instance common spruce, it will take more common
spruce to produce the same amount of heat that you would get from a cubic metre of beech.
Banned fuel types
It is not allowed to stoke a fire with the following:
• Printed matter
• Plywood, plastic
• Rubber
• Fluid fuels
• Rubbish such as milk cartons, lacquered wood or impregnated wood.
The reason that you should not apply any of the above is that during combustion they develop substances
that are health hazardous and harmful to the environment. These substances could also damage your
insert and chimney, rendering the product warranty void.
Storage of wood
A water content of a maximum of 20% is achieved by storing the wood for a minimum of one year,
preferably two years, outdoors under a lean-to. Wood stored indoors has a tendency to become too
dry and combust too quickly. However, it might be advantageous to store fuel for lighting a fire indoors
for a few days prior to use.
Recommended dimensions
The dimensions of the fuel are important to good combustion. The dimensions should be as follows:
Fuel type
Length in cm
Diameter in cm
Wood for kindling a fire (finely chopped)
25-35
2-5
Chopped wood
30-40
7-9
10
Opening and closing the door
Always hold the handle in the middle when opening and closing the door to avoid putting uneven pressure on the door lift mechanism.
Please note that it is important not to let go of the handle when opening and closing the door. The glass
could be damaged if the door is allowed to open or close on its own.
Regulating the insert (Drawing E)
The adjustment bar (1) is located behind the glass.The automatic control function is set to maximum when the
adjustment bar is set to the rightmost position, and minimum when the bar is set to the leftmost position.
Firing
Push the adjustment bar all the way to the right to set the automatic control to maximum effect. Put split
kindling, corresponding to two to three pieces of wood (about 2 kg), into the insert. Put two fire lighters
in between the upper layer of kindling. Light them and allow the flames to spread slowly. Keep the door
ajar until no more condensation forms on the glass (for a maximum of 5 min.). Close the door. When
the kindling is burning well, push the output regulating rod into middle position. If the fire goes out, this
has been done too early. Push the regulating rod to the right again until the fire is burning properly. Allow
the kindling to burn out until flames are no longer visible.
Important! The door may only be opened when lighting the insert, adding fuel to the fire or removing ash.
Burning
When there are no more visible yellow flames, and a right ember is there, you can fire again.The layer of
embers is suitable when the pieces of wood begin to disintegrate and the bottom of the insert is covered
by embers. Put two or three pieces of wood weighing up to 1 kg each into the insert. The automatic
control manages the regulation of air supply.
The temperature can, however, be set up or down by pushing the regulation bar either to the right or
left, respectively. If the adjustment bar is set farther to the left, combustion is reduced and the burning
time is prolonged. By pushing it to the right, combustion is increased and burning time is shortened. Do
not add new firewood to the fire until the layer of embers is sufficiently low.
Burning coal, briquettes and coke
The HWAM I 30/55 is not designed for burning with coal or coke. However, briquettes can be used and
should be placed on the embers produced by the burned wood. Push the adjustment bar all the way to
the right until the briquettes are smouldering.
Remember that the adjustment bar should afterwards be pushed to the left again to reduce
combustion. Be aware that using fuels other than wood, will cause soot to form on the glass
pane.
11
In general about firing
Quick or strong heat
Quick or strong heat is obtained by burning many small pieces of wood.
Maximum amounts of fuel
The maximum allowed amount of fuel per hour is:
Wood: 2.4 kg
Briquettes: 1.9 kg
Typical re-firing interval at nominal performance
Wood: 65 min
Briquettes: 65 min
Should these limits be exceeded, the insert will no longer be covered by the factory guarantee, and it
may be damaged due to excessive heat. The stove has been approved for intermittent use.
Prolonged burning time
Prolong the burning time by burning a few (at least 2) very large pieces wood whilst at the same time
regulating the damper down.
Insufficient firing
If the fireproof materials in the combustion chamber are blackened after a heating session, the insert is
polluting, and the automatic air flow regulation system is not functioning properly.The bar must therefore
be pushed to the right. Also, it may be necessary to burn more wood.
Types of fuel
We recommend using birch or beechwood, which has been split and stored for at least one year outdoors
under cover. Wood stored indoors tends to become too dry and burn too quickly.
Briquettes give off a lot of heat. Certain types expand considerably, thus causing an uncontrollable
combustion.
When burning is complete
When the insert is not in use, push the adjustment bar all the way to the left.
How to achieve the best combustion
• Use clean and dry wood.
Wet wood results in inefficient combustion, plenty of smoke, and soot. Furthermore, the heat will dry
the wood, not heat up the room.
• The fire should only be stoked with a little wood at a time.
You achieve the best combustion by starting up a fire often and using only a little wood. If you use too
much firewood, it will take some time before the temperature reaches a level where you achieve a
good combustion.
• Make sure there is the right amount of air.
You should also make sure that there is plenty of air – especially in the beginning - so the temperature
in the insert climbs quickly. In this way the gasses and particles released during the combustion will be
consumed by the fire. Otherwise they build up soot in the chimney (constituting a chimney fire risk)
or will be released in a non-combusted state into the environment. The wrong amount of air supply
creates inefficient combustion and a modest effect.
• Don’t savour the fire during night time
We advise against adding fire wood to your stove and reducing the air supply at night in an attempt to
12
still have some embers left in the morning. If you do so, large amounts of hazardous smoke will be emitted,
and your chimney will be exposed to unnecessarily large amounts of soot with the risk of a chimney fire.
Cleaning
External cleaning
Cleaning of the insert should only be performed when it is not in use/cool. Daily maintenance is limited
to a minimum. It is easiest to vacuum the outside of the insert with a tiny nozzle with soft brushes.
Cleaning the glass (drawing G)
If it becomes necessary to clean the inside of the glass pane, lift the door halfway up and pull out the
two top guide latches (1) on each side of the door in order to loosen them from the screws (2). The
glass scan then be tilted out and cleaned. Once the glass is clean, lift the door again halfway up, pull out
the top guide latches on the sides, ease the glass pane into place, and lead the guide latches back into
place over the screws.
The inside of the glass pane is best cleaned with damp paper towel dipped in ash. Afterwards, dry with
a clean paper towel.
The outside of the glass can be cleaned with ordinary cleaning solvent used to polish surfaces.We recommend wiping down the window pane when the insert is not in use/cool.
Ash
We recommend removing ash from the combustion chamber with an ash suction device.
Ash can be disposed of through daily refuse collection. Be aware that embers in the ash can remain hot
up to 24 hours after the fire in the insert has gone out!
Maintenance
Maintenance
Regularly ensure that the air slit for the pane air rinse function (drawing C, 3) is free of ash and soot
particles. Regularly check to make sure that seals in the door are complete and soft. If not, they should
be replaced. Use only original spare parts.
The insert should be thoroughly cleaned once a year. Ash and soot must be removed from the combustion chamber. If necessary, lubricate the door lift mechanism with copper grease.
Service inspection
At least once every other year, the insert should receive a thorough, preventative service inspection.
Among other things, the service inspection covers:
• A thorough cleaning of the insert.
• Inspection of the door lift mechanism and lubrication with copper grease if necessary (drawing B,1).
• Check the spring in the automatic unit and replace if necessary.
• Checking gaskets. Replace gaskets if they are not intact or are no longer soft.
• Inspection of springs for chain drive. Inspection to ensure that the chain drive is equal on both sides,
and that the door closes tightly all the way around.
• Inspection/possible replacement of heat insulation material.
13
The inspection must be performed by a qualified professional.
Use only original spare parts.
Cleaning
Before chimney sweeping can be performed, the adjustment bar must be set all the way to the left to
prevent soot and ash from entering the automatic control.
Drawing C
Remove the smoke shelf (1). Push the plate forward and lift it up a bit to the side.Tilt one side downward.
The plate is now free and can be removed from the combustion chamber. Lift the steel smoke deflector
plate (2) off of the hooks so that it can be removed.
Insulation
The efficient, but porous insulation of the combustion chamber may, in time, be worn and damaged. Cracks
in the insulation are irrelevant to the efficiency of the insert. However, it should be replaced when, due
to wear and tear, it has been reduced to less than half its original thickness.
HWAM automaticTM
On a cold stove, the starting point of the feeler is controlled. The starting point on a cold stove is about
30° above horizontal. It should feel easy going and bouncy when you push it, no matter if the stove is
cold or hot. By rising or falling temperatures it must not move at a bound. The damper plates must be
dry and clean and slide together unhindered. Control bars and slide gates may have to be smeared with
WD40 (never oil).
Door lift (Drawing B)
The door lift mechanism consists of a chain pull placed on either side of the stove and a spring. If the
door opens with difficulty, you may correct this by greasing the chain wheel boxes and door hinges (1)
with copper grease (we recommend a grease that can withstand temperatures of up to 1,100º C). You
should do this once every year. If the door still opens and closes too stiffly, the spring on the door lift
mechanism can be loosened slightly. If the door slides too easily, the spring has loosened. The spring can
be loosened or tightened as follows:
Remove the liner from the building-in cassette. Make sure the door of the combustion chamber (3)
is closed. Attach the tightening tool (4) supplied with the stove to the toothed wheel (5). To tighten
the spring so that the door closes more slowly (or can remain fully open), turn the toothed wheel (5)
clockwise slightly. This can be done by turning the tightening tool (4) counter-clockwise. To loosen the
spring so that the door closes faster (or can no longer remain fully open), lift the locking pawl (6) and
turn the toothed wheel (5) counter-clockwise slightly. This can be done by turning the tightening tool
(4) clockwise. IMPORTANT! Keep a firm grip on the handle of the tightening tool (4) when lifting the
locking pawl as considerable weight and force are transferred when it is lifted.
After each adjustment, check to see whether the desired effect has been achieved. If not, repeat the
process. If you have loosened the spring, we recommend holding the door handle when checking the
effect for the first time to ensure that the spring has not become so loose that the door closes too fast
with the risk of damaging the glass.
Please Note:You should always have a professional adjust, grease and repair these parts.
14
Surface
The surface does not normally require any treatment. Any damage to the coating may be remedied using
a Senotherm spray.
Guarantee
The guarantee does not cover damage due to insufficient maintenance!
Operational problems
Blackened glass
• The wood is too damp. Only use wood stored for at least 12 months under cover and with a moisture
level not exceeding 20%.
• The doors seals may be not be tight.
• Insufficient secondary air introduced to the pane-flushing system. Push the adjustment bar further to
the right until the glass is burned clean.
• Intermittent firing. Allow the insert to heat through properly.
Smoke in the room when opening door
• The damper in the chimney may be closed. Open the damper.
• Insufficient chimney draft. See section on chimney or contact chimney sweep.
• Soot door leaking or dislodged. Replace or refit.
• Never open door when there are still flames in the wood.
Uncontrollable combustion
• A seal in the door is not completely tight. Replace the seal.
• If the draught is too strong inside the chimney, it may be necessary to set the adjustment bar to minimum, i.e. to the left.
If problems occur that you cannot fix yourself, please consult your wood-burning stove
dealer.
15
Declaration of Conformity
Manufacturer:
HWAM A/S
Nydamsvej 53
DK – 8362 Hørning
Denmark
hereby declares that:
Product:
Type:
Wood-burning stove
HWAM I 30/55
was manufactured in accordance with the provisions of the following directive:
Reference no.
Title:
89/106/EEC
Construction Products Directive – CPD
and the following harmonised standards:
No:
Title:
Version:
EN 13229
Insert appliances including open fires fired by solid fuels
2001
EN 13229/A2
Insert appliances including open fires fired by solid fuels
2004
and other standards and/or technical specifications
No:
Title:
NS 3058
Enclosed wood heaters - Smoke emission
NS 3059
Enclosed wood heaters - Smoke emission - requirement
Hørning, 18.02.2008
Torsten Hvam Sølund
Factory and Quality Manager
16
Installatiehandleiding
18
20
Lengte in cm
Diameter in cm
Aanmaakhout (kleine stukken)
25-35
2-5
Gekloven brandhout
30-40
7-9
25
Conformiteitsverklaring
Fabrikant:
HWAM A/S
Nydamsvej 53
DK – 8362 Hørning
Type:
Houtkachel
HWAM I 30/55
Titel:
89/106/EEC
Titel:
Uitgave:
EN 13229
2001
EN 13229/A2
2004
en conform de volgende andere normen en/of technische specificaties:
Nr.
Titel:
NS 3058
NS 3059
26
28
25 à 35
2à5
Bûches fendues
30 à 40
7à9
35
Type:
HWAM I 30/55
Titre:
89/106/EEC
Titre
EN 13229
2001
EN 13229/A2
2004
Titre
NS 3058
NS 3059
36
Italiano
38
25-35
2-5
30-40
7-9
45
HWAM I 30/55
89/106/EEC
EN 13229
EN 13229/A2
NS 3058
NS 3059
Hørning, 18. febbraio 2008
46
Parte:
48
50
25-35
2-5
30-40
7-9
55
Tipo:
HWAM I 30/55
Título:
89/106/EEC
EN 13229
EN 13229/A2
NS 3058
Lukkede vedfyrte ildsteder Røykudslipp
(Chimeneas cerradas Røykudslipp para utilizar leña como combustible)
NS 3059
56
57
58
[email protected]
www.hwam.com