Maytag FW-1718 Engine, 11, 16, 19, 26, 31, 33, 82, 111, 92, B, C Multi-Motor, Twin-Cylinder Multi-Motor Service Instructions

Maytag FW-1718 Engine, 11, 16, 19, 26, 31, 33, 82, 111, 92, B, C Multi-Motor, Twin-Cylinder Multi-Motor Service Instructions

The Maytag FW-1718, 82, 92, B, 31, 33, C, 11, 16, 26, 111, 19 and Twin-Cylinder Multi-Motor engines are designed for use in a variety of applications. The FW-1718 engine is a single-cylinder magneto-powered engine, while the 82, 92, B, 31, 33, C, 11, 16, 26, 111, 19 and Twin-Cylinder Multi-Motor engines are all multi-cylinder engines. These engines are known for their durability, reliability, and ease of maintenance.

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Key Features

  • Single and multi-cylinder options
  • Magneto ignition
  • Durable and reliable
  • Easy to maintain
  • Variety of applications
  • Detailed servicing instructions

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Frequently Answers and Questions

How do I test the magneto on my Maytag FW-1718 engine?
Remove the inspection plate and turn the flywheel until the points are open. Adjust points by regulating stop screw No. 12732 in the governor. The points should open approximately .020”. To increase opening of points, loosen lock nut and turn stop screw to the right. To decrease opening, turn screw to the left. Use the gauge on magneto wrench No. 12799. Hold spark cable ½” from cylinder and spin flywheel to test spark. If a spark results, it is evident that the magneto is all right. The strength of the spark, though, may be increased by refining the adjustments on the points with the stop screw.
What are the most common complaints and methods of correcting them for Maytag Multi-Motors?
1. Engine Overheats and Fires Rapidly: Excess carbon. In most cases this results in one or more of the piston rings sticking, which will cause the engine to overheat. Increased friction, insufficient lubrication, or back pressure because of partially closed exhaust ports creates an overload and lowers the speed of the engine until the governor drops back, causing the engine to fire on every revolution. This gives the impression that the engine is running much faster than normal. Repair by removing the cylinder and thoroughly cleaning all carbon from four exhaust and two intake ports, inside of cylinder head, piston, rings and ring grooves. Before assembling be sure that the rings turn freely and are oiled liberally. The gaps of the rings should not be in line and must not pass the ports. After repairing, instruct the operator to use only genuine Maytag Multi-Motor oil, mixed in the proportion of 1 part oil to 16 parts of good regular gasoline. 2. Engine Lacks Power and is Hard To Start: This condition is usually due to the engine being dirty and badly carboned as outlined in 1-a, in addition to poor ignition. Poor or faulty ignition may result from a number of causes. The most common are: Fouled spark plug or cracked porcelain. High tension wire broken or not making connection. Points burned and pitted, or incorrectly adjusted. Broken wires or loose connections at coil, condenser, or interrupter assembly in armature plate. The condition and adjustment of the carburetor is also an important factor to be considered when repairing an engine which shows such characteristics. Worn crankshaft bushings. Broken or stuck piston rings. Repair by cleaning carbon from all parts as outlined in 1-b. Remove spark plug, clean and adjust or replace, whichever is necessary. Remove flywheel and armature plate, wash carefully in a clean solvent and inspect. Coil and condenser may be tested as instructed in paragraphs 8-b and 8-c. If breaker points are worn, they should be filed smooth or replaced. In filing or replacing the points, make certain that they make contact over the entire face of the point. After installing the flywheel and armature plate, adjust points to .020” at their widest break by means of the stem screw in the governor. See paragraph 8-a. To test spark through plug, connect high tension wire and lay plug on engine base. Spin flywheel and note intensity of spark at points of plug. Points of plug should be adjusted so that the gap is .020”. In checking the carburetor, examine the needle valve, needle valve seat, air valve and air valve seat. If necessary, repair as outlined in paragraphs 3-a-b-c-d. Wash the air cleaner carefully in a solvent to remove any accumulation of lint or dirt which would interfere with the flow of air into the carburetor mixing chamber. 3. Engine leaking Gas and Oil through Crankshaft Bushings and around Carburetor Gaskets. This condition can be caused by one or more of the following: Running the engine with an excessively rich mixture. Broken carburetor gaskets, loose bolts or gaskets not cemented properly. Needle valve is adjusted so mixture is too lean, thus starving the engine. Bushing No. 12720 for starter side of crankshaft not receiving lubrication. Rings broken or carboned and stuck. Starter ratchet pinion S-240 dry or worn. To repair: Ease needle valve open slightly thereby giving the engine more lubrication. Oil liberally through ball oiler No. 13115 for No. 12720 bushing. Remove cylinder and note condition of piston, rings and cylinder walls. Replace or clean rings as instructed in paragraph 2-b. If cylinder is scored, a new one will be required. In this case, we recommend that the entire piston and cylinder assembly be returned to the factory or branch office for inspection. The piston and cylinder are carefully matched and fitted at the factory and we do not recommend they be interchanged on the territory. If the ratchet pinion S-240 is found to be dry, remove and place a small amount of good cup grease in the groove around the inside. Do not oil or grease the balls or teeth of the ratchet. So doing would cause dirt to accumulate and the starter would not function properly. If badly worn, install a new one. 4. Engine squeaks or makes howling noise: Usually caused by: Starter ratchet pinion S-240 dry or worn. To repair: If the ratchet pinion S-240 is found to be dry, remove and place a small amount of good cup grease in the groove around the inside. Do not oil or grease the balls or teeth of the ratchet. So doing would cause dirt to accumulate and the starter would not function properly. If badly worn, install a new one. 5. Starter stuck or jammed: This condition is not common, If it does occur, examine the balls and teeth of the ratchet pinion S-239. If the balls are worn or broken, install new ones. This also applies to the ratchet pinion, S-240.
How do I adjust the points on my Maytag Twin-Cylinder Multi-Motor engine?
Slide the mounting plate into position, tighten clamp screw and follow with cam 14523. Make certain the cam is installed with the arrow pointing toward the right, that is, the same direction the crankshaft rotates. The cam is eccentric as shown in the drawing No. 1. To correctly adjust the points turn the crankshaft in the direction it normally operates until the shoe of the breaker blade is against the heavy section of cam just past the breaking edge. The correct position is shown. Check the opening and if the gap is not exactly .020”, loosen screw 54045X and move breaker bracket up or down as necessary to make the gap .020”. After tightening the screw again check the opening to determine whether the action of tightening the screw moved the lower point. Use gauge No. 38070. Clean points with a carborundum stone or No. 240 grain emery cloth.

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